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<DIV><SPAN class=733024020-08032015><FONT size=2 face=Arial>In June 2014 I
bought Bob Kramer's TR4A racecar after I crashed my TR3 at the Zandvoort circuit
(The Netherlands). It's a great car and it will get better. Of my
TR3, I only kept the engine and overdrive dogbox Overhauling the
front suspension, I found that the lower trunnion was moving on the bolt instead
of the bushed lower wishbones : the distance pieces in the wishbones where
shorter than original, so the trunnion was not clamped by these distance
pieces when fastening the bolt. Correcting this, the upright has less play
now, only a little in the trunnion, and this upright with balljoint can't
be forced anymore between the outer ends of the upper wihbones, the balljoint is
1/2" too far to the rear. Turning the upper wishbones to the rear (by
moving the fulcrum pin) isn't a good option, because binding will occur.
I've drilled new holes for the brackets for the inner ends of the lower
wishbones : the suspension is moving without any binding now but I don't
know if I will leave it like that. I wonder if something is wrong with
the uprights? (less than 3° caster?) If I measure the caster, I find 2.2°
on both sides, but probably that isn't proving anything. The chassis is as
new, no damage. Any idea's someone?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733024020-08032015><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Another question :
trying to get at zero bump steer, the best I get at by moving the steering
rack is a J : the wheels are toeing in when lowered more than 3 cm
below ride height (minimal to 5cm, then more and more toe in). Bending the
steering arms to the outside, almost touching the brake disks now, has
straightened the J a little. Is it possible to eliminate the bump steer
completely, or have we(TR4A-TR6) to accept some bump steer in the
least important part of the suspension travel?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=733024020-08032015><FONT size=2
face=Arial>Marcel.</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML>