<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html charset=us-ascii"><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html charset=us-ascii"><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html charset=us-ascii"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><br class=""><div><br class=""><div class=""><br class=""></div><br class=""><div class=""><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html charset=us-ascii" class=""><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><font color="#263e0f" class="">TO ALL WHO RESPONDED AND those who may have had similar thoughts but had some one on the list beat them to a response and to those who may benefit from the discussion.</font></div><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><font color="#4f7a28" class=""><br class=""></font></div><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><font color="#38571a" class="">I received (on and off lists) around 15 responses to my original query concerning trying to re-create the archimedes rear crank scroll on my virgin Crower billet steel (4340 chrome moly that had the scroll area ground to 2.500" which was the "standard" in the instructions of the day (back in 2007---later revised to 2.525 but too late for me!). Nearly 95% of respondents cautioned against applying weld (to include spray welding) to accomplish this proposal which would have required a build up of a bit over 5/16" in order to machine back the scroll. When I visited the local crankshaft technician he was concerned that the hardness of the 4340 CM steel would not allow for proper initial bedding / adhesion. When I checked with Crower's tech dept. later in the day he agreed and indicated that they also applied a low temp. nitride treatment to a depth of 3/4 mil. which further hardened the wear surfaces of the crank.</font></div><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""> <font color="#38571a" class="">Most replies just suggested I abandon the proposed use of the Viton seal and use the original (Nitril) Rover based lip seal, just be very careful in it's fitting. If it is a bit loose, perhaps snip slightly one of the seal mating surfaces and make sure the spring is 8" or a hair under in connected length and follow the tips in Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips write up with Tonys addendum.</font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class=""> </font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class="">One interesting suggestion from Don E was to look into Hard Chroming that area to get to the desired 2.525" diameter. The Cower tech. thought that a good suggestion but cautioned that who ever did it needed to be "good" at it, as getting it applied evenly was the key so as to avoid having to apply too much then grind it back down. I and my mechanic continue to look into this option. </font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class=""> </font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class="">Another suggestion came from Marcel VM to look into Moss Europe, whom he indicated offered the "old lip seal" in both Nitril material and the newer Viton material. I have placed a query to Moss Europe regarding this option as the Viton material is somewhat superior long term. Since starting (and stopping) this email I have received from Moss Europe a response to my query indicating that they do indeed have both types of lip seals available. Part no. TT1032S is the original Nitril material and TT1032SX is the later Viton material. I have asked for confirmation that these seals are for the "scroll-less" kits and for pricing information which is yet to arrive back. Those of you who are in the same boat as I (and many others) may find this a good replacement option when you next re-build your motors.</font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class="">So, if the "X" Viton seal from Moss Europe (wonder if Moss USA could import a bunch to make purchase easier?) does work with the (shall I call it the intermediate kits) modified crank (without scroll) and seal then that is what I will do. I may consider having the former scroll area hard chromed to the 2.525" diameter as well if it can be done in the Detroit Metro Area.</font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class="">Thanks to all who contributed to this exercise.</font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class="">Dan C.<br class=""></font><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br class=""><div class=""><div class="">On Feb 20, 2015, at 10:40 PM, Dan via Fot <<a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html charset=us-ascii" class=""><div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space;" class=""><font class="">2/20</font><div class=""><font class="">Good Evening All</font></div><div class=""><font class="">I Am reaching out to all TR owners for your thoughts and advice concerning a decision I will soon need to confront.</font></div><div class=""><font class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font class="">Several years ago I went in on a "pool purchase" led by Mordy D and have a beautiful billet steel Cower crank---built without the rear scroll and to the 2.50" dia. that was used at the time for the then new and improved "Lip Seal" I was planning on using. </font></div><div class=""><font class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font class="">Fast forward to today and the really new Viton rear seal kit which I have purchased and would really like to use now that the engine is finally getting built. </font></div><div class=""><font class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font class="">I am meeting with a couple of crankshaft specialists here in the Detroit Metro Area the first of the week to see if they think they can build up (with weld) the area that the scroll would have occupied and machine it back to match the stock crank configuration in order to use the Viton Seal. This leads me to ask two questions:</font></div><div class=""><font class="">1)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Has anyone had this done or heard of it being done and if so any cautions or suggestions or lessons learned?</font></div><div class=""><font class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font class="">2)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Has anyone tried to use the Viton Seal on a crank that has had the scroll machined off and what has been the end result of this experiment, or would it be better to just use the now old "lip seal" and tighten up the carrier and lip seal and shorten the spring a bit to try and grip the 2.50 diameter surface a bit closer.?</font></div><div class=""><font class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font class="">Any thoughts, cautions, theories, etc any of you have or could share (either via the list or privately) will be most appreciated. I have a lot of cool things going into this motor build and really do not want to screw it up doing something I do not fully understand.</font></div><div class=""><font class=""><br class=""></font></div><div class=""><font class="">Thanks, </font></div><div class=""><font class="">Dan Cronin</font></div><div class=""><font color="#38571a" class=""><a href="mailto:adcronin@gmail.com" class="">adcronin@gmail.com</a></font></div></div>_______________________________________________<br class=""><a href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net" class="">fot@autox.team.net</a><br class=""><br class=""><a href="http://www.fot-racing.com" class="">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br class=""><br class="">Donate: <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" class="">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br class="">Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" class="">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br class="">Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums" class="">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br class="">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin@mi.rr.com" class="">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin@mi.rr.com</a><br class=""><br class=""><br class=""></div></div><br class=""></div></div></div></div></div><br class=""></body></html>