<div dir="ltr"><div>The problem I encountered with aftermarket billet rocker arm pedestals�and�roller rockers (Harland Sharp) is the geometry of the rocker arm�movement and the resulting sweep of the roller tip over the end of the valve stem.��The goal is to minimize sweep and center over the valve stem.� If the pedestals are not designed properly in�relationship to the tip of the valve stem, there is excessive or off-center�sweep�and reduce valve opening and possible valve damage.� It's relatively easy to check roller tip sweep. �I found that If you try to move the rocker shaft axis closer to the valve stem to better center the sweep�or reduce the sweep,�the pedestal mounting studs get in the way.� I ended up milling the base of the pedestals to improve the centering of the sweep but sacrificed a few thou�of�valve lift.� �I don't think the minor increase in roller rocker ratio had much to do with the problem.</div>
<div>P.S. I bought a set of custom length tubular pushrods from Ted and they are working great.� </div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 9:27 AM, Ted Schumacher <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:tedtsimx@bright.net" target="_blank">tedtsimx@bright.net</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<div>John, you fell victim to the "someone
sold the wrong Ford lifter" problem. We have run into this a�
couple times where the lifter cup and push rod ball don't "like
each other".� We supply roller rockers ($285/set), hardened shaft
($69) and tubular alloy pushrods ($69.95).� Pushrods available in
2 different tube diameters - 5/16"and 3/8" and whatever length
needed.. We will also produce billet pedestals if you want. A
caution about the use of needle bearing pivots in the rocker arm.�
Needle bearings, by design, allow oil to "fall out"of the
bearings. And they are extremely hard. Needle bearings are great
support for a rotating device such as a shaft where it rotates
completely. But, a rocker arm only moves through a small part of
an arc and can cause excessive wear to shaft. Our roller rockers
are bushed with a design that forces oil to lube both the roller
tip and pushrod cup. Please let me� now if we can help. Thanks,
Ted<div><div class="h5"><br>
<br>
<br>
On 9/16/2013 7:50 PM, John Wagner wrote:<br>
</div></div></div>
<blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="h5">
<div style="font-family:Courier New,courier,monaco,monospace,sans-serif;font-size:12pt">
<div>� � As some of you might know the purple TR3 had it's share
of valve train problems at RA. Turns out the plug in the
rocker shaft came loose and starved no. 1 rocker arm, we
missed the K cup S---. But thanks to Joe we were able to make
the group 2 race. After some �close inspection of all related
parts, I found �something interesting. We use .875 FE block
Ford lifters (352-428) This lifters has a 5/16 dia. push rod
cup,triumph push rod are much larger, closer to 1/2 dia. �The
triumph push rods never created a problem but it is not right.
The push rods have no sign of ware, other then a shinny ring.
For all of you that use�<span style="font-size:12pt">|Ford
lifters You might want to check this. Our plan know is to up
grade to roller rockers and new push rods.</span><span style="font-size:12pt">�I talked to Richard Good about a
complete assembly for TR2-4. He has rockers and shafts but
no pedestals,"BUT" he is willing to design and build billet
pedestals. So If anyone out there in FOT land that might be
interested in a kit or just new "Good" pedestals send him a
note.�</span></div>
<div style="font-family:"Courier New",courier,monaco,monospace,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent"><span style="font-size:12pt">� � Now for the big question, Ford
used two types of lifters the shell type,like we use or a
solid ,hour glass style with about a 1.5in. shorter push
rod, so if we have to replace push rods, why not go with the
solid lifters (about $80),yes there are a little heavier,but
the rod will be lighter and much more stronger. WHAT SAY
YOU.�</span></div>
<div style="font-family:"Courier New",courier,monaco,monospace,sans-serif;font-size:16px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent"><span style="font-size:12pt"><br>
</span></div>
<div style="font-family:"Courier New",courier,monaco,monospace,sans-serif;font-size:16px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent"><span style="font-size:12pt">� � �Thank you</span></div>
<div style="font-family:"Courier New",courier,monaco,monospace,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent"><span style="font-size:12pt">� � �John Wagner</span></div>
<div style="font-family:"Courier New",courier,monaco,monospace,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent"><span style="font-size:12pt">� � �Just the wrench</span></div>
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<pre cols="72">--
Ted Schumacher
<a href="mailto:tedtsimx@bright.net" target="_blank">tedtsimx@bright.net</a>
<a href="http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com" target="_blank">http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com</a>
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: <a href="tel:419.384.3272" target="_blank" value="+14193843272">419.384.3272</a> (24 Hrs.)
Phone: <a href="tel:800.543.6648" target="_blank" value="+18005436648">800.543.6648</a> (US & Canada)
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