[Fot] TR6 Oil Pressure During Race Conditions
Mark Cook
mecook635 at gmail.com
Wed Sep 30 05:19:32 MDT 2026
Tony,
Thanks - I had an older valve which eventually failed and was replaced with
a newer one last year. I will double check the cut-on pressure and maybe
raise it 10psi to have it cut on sooner.
Regards,
Mark
On Tue, Sep 29, 2026 at 11:59 PM Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
> My TR-4 accusump is plumbed similarly. Uses big-ass lines (AN12 I
> think). Keeping the oil overfull is the trick for the TR-4. I have an
> older electronic valve in the accusump, they apparently flow more than the
> newer valve. Same deal, left hand turns, oil pressure drop even with
> baffling if oil level is too low. Accusump keeps it up to about 30 though.
>
> Regards, Tony Drews
> On 9/29/2026 9:44 PM, Mark Cook wrote:
>
> Oh, by the way, my accusump is plumbed to flow in between the oil cooler
> and the external oil manifold. The backflow/check valve is between the
> accusump line and the oil cooler.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Mark Cook
>
> On Tue, Sep 29, 2026 at 10:26 PM Mark Cook <mecook635 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Scott, Jason, Bob and Mike,
>>
>> Thanks for the quick responses. Scott - I have both the newer
>> Racetorations baffle and oil pickup in the second link. I also have an
>> oil low pressure light in front of me set at 30psi, which is what alerted
>> me hen on the track. So, in summary, three things to check:
>>
>> 1. Oil level - try "over filling" by 1/2" over fill line or 1 full quart
>> 2. Accusump automatic valve - check settings or replace with manual valve
>> (automatic valve may not be opening soon enough)
>> 3. Replace the oil pan baffle with a different make if the above does not
>> work.
>>
>> Much appreciated! Will keep you posted. Hope to see you all at VIR in
>> March for the Wild Hare. If the planets align, I will be there too.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Mark Cook
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 29, 2026 at 4:36 PM Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, Mark, another not-quite-the-same story, but I also run a GT6 with a
>>> stock - now baffled oil pan and an accusump. My accusump is plumbed right
>>> into the block - directly above the stock oil filter opening there’s a hole
>>> in the block that is filled in with some soft metal from the factory. That
>>> was drilled out, tapped and has an AN -12 (?) hose that connects to the
>>> accusump on the passenger compartment floor. Like Jason, I just have a
>>> manual lever/ball valve right on the tank- open that up before I fire the
>>> engine, close it before I shut it off. I can reach it easily when I’m
>>> sitting in the car. I also have a big red autometer pro-lite on top of the
>>> dash, aimed at me, which goes on any time the pressure drops below 30 or 40
>>> lb (been so long since I installed it I don’t remember what the pressure
>>> switch is at). It serves two purposes - when I turn on the ignition switch,
>>> it lights up until I open the accusump and the pressure builds. Second, I
>>> don’t need to be watching my gauge while racing - if that light goes on, I
>>> immediately know something is wrong, big time, and can shut off the engine
>>> hopefully before I ruin it and/or oil the track.
>>>
>>> I run a stock pump, the baffles divide the pan into quarters and have a
>>> few holes punched in them to let the oil move around but not too much.
>>> Loose fit at the bottom of the pan. Again, like Jason, I also run the oil
>>> level about 3/8 -to- 1/2” above the top fill mark as I find the oil
>>> pressure does drop slightly if it’s below the top fill mark.
>>> My full chat oil pressure at the Glen this weekend was about 70-75 lb
>>> (this engine has about six events on it) - 60 lb cold at idle, maybe 50lb
>>> hot at idle. I do not notice any fluctuations on turns.
>>> I think my full fill is about 7.5 quarts starting with a drained
>>> accusump, but not sure. BTW- I always use an oil pressure primer tank when
>>> I change the oil, start the engine, open the accusump to pressurize it
>>> (partially - don’t want the oil pressure to drop as it fills up), then
>>> adjust the fill level at the dipstick. That way, any time I start the
>>> engine after that I can pre-oil it with the accusump.
>>>
>>> I wonder if your baffle is the issue? If this is it, I don’t think it
>>> is doing much good.
>>> https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/aluminium-sump-baffle-plate-tr5-6/
>>> On the other hand, I don’t see any issues with this one. Not sure what
>>> the saucer pick-up really does for the engine, though. Might even keep oil
>>> from getting to the intake if it is too close to the bottom of the pan.
>>> https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/track-day-competition-oil-pump-complete-kit-tr5-6/
>>> not sure which one you have.
>>> Good luck, let us know what you find out. An accusump is cheap
>>> insurance!
>>>
>>> Scott Janzen
>>>
>>> On Sep 29, 2026, at 3:41 PM, JS Performance Motoring, LLC <
>>> jason at jsperformancemotoring.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Mark,
>>> My GT6 runs a baffled stock pan with a stock pickup, so it's
>>> apples to oranges, but I find that running the oil level about 1/2" above
>>> the "full" line on the stock dipstick helps reduce how often the oil
>>> pressure fluctuates in left-hand turns. There is ample room before the
>>> crank throws hit the oil, that extra oil has never been a problem for me.
>>> I suspect the longer throws of the 2.5L crankshaft also have plenty of room.
>>>
>>> When watching my in car videos, I see the oil pressure gauge needle
>>> still flickers occasionally during a left turn after a hard braking zone,
>>> but with the Accusump backfeeding, it never indicates pressure nearly as
>>> low as what you are reporting. I'm still seeing 50 psi during a momentary
>>> drop. 70 to 80 psi at peak revs (8,000 rpm) with hot oil.
>>>
>>> How is your Accusump plumbed into the engine? I have seen Accusumps
>>> with an electronic valve that doesn't open until some preset pressure drop,
>>> those seem less helpful in this sort of situation. I prefer the manual
>>> valve that's wide open whenever the engine is running.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jason Sukey
>>> JS Performance Motoring, LLC
>>> 440.984.7720 <(440)%20984-7720>
>>> jason at jsperformancemotoring.com
>>> www.jspmparts.com
>>> https://www.facebook.com/JSPerformanceMotoring/
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 29, 2026 at 3:20 PM Mark Cook <mecook635 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> All,
>>>>
>>>> Back in January, installed a newly built back up engine in the TR6
>>>> (while Jason Sukey was re-building my original engine). Finally, ran some
>>>> break-in laps back in May at lower RPMs (one session at <5,000, then a
>>>> second session at about ~6,000rpm). Engine ran well, but did not really
>>>> push it hard.
>>>>
>>>> Last week at VIR, pushed the car a little harder (both in rain and dry
>>>> track). Moving through T3 and T4 (left hand turns), I experienced very low
>>>> oil pressures:
>>>> T3 - 30.1psi / 3954rpm / 60.1mph and
>>>> T4 - 24.8psi / 3643rpm / 46.6mph.
>>>>
>>>> At similar rpms,
>>>> T12 (RH), 52.4psi / 3525rpm / 45.9mph.
>>>>
>>>> I have a Racetorations oil sump (take 1.6qts more than stock), race
>>>> baffle and race oil pickup (with the saucer). Did not push the TR6 very
>>>> hard, not over 7,000rpm.
>>>>
>>>> Clearly the oil must be sloshing to the right side of the pan during
>>>> the slow left hand turns. The Racetorations pickup is the saucer kind
>>>> which is centered in the sump.
>>>>
>>>> Showing good pressure at around 70+psi at near 6,800rpms in straights
>>>> and 2qt accusump when idling, 80psi.
>>>>
>>>> We are going to drain, measure and refill. Thoughts, other than simply
>>>> not enough oil in the system?
>>>>
>>>> The math:
>>>> Stock TR6 system - 5.4qts
>>>> Racestorations Sump +1.6qts
>>>> Oil lines +0.5qts (external oil feed)
>>>> Oil cooler +0.5qts
>>>> Accusump +2.0quts
>>>> Total 10.0qts
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Mark Cook
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
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>>>> _______________________________________________
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