[Fot] TR4 block.

[Ponostyle]

I looked at two of my blocks, both have similar cracks. One has the typical crack from the edge of the block to one of the short stud holes. I repair those by drilling a little deeper and installing a solid insert. Then I run a bottoming tap through the insert to tread the added hole extension and I use an ARP stud that’s made about 3/8” longer for this purpose. I suspect any block you find will have some cracks. Unless they are in the meat of the support for the liners I’d ignore them. The block simply aligns the cylinders and moves water around. Not a lot of stress on it except where it clamps the head and the main bearings. At least I don’t think so. 
> On May 28, 2026, at 2:07 PM, Barr, Scott <sbarr at mccarty-law.com> wrote:
> 
> I miss his sense of humor  :-/
> 
> Scott (B.)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Tony Drews
> Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2026 3:23 PM
> To: Brian Ray <brianray at sonic.net <mailto:brianray at sonic.net>>; FOT at autox.team.net <mailto:FOT at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 block.
> 
> My recollection (I can't find it in writing) that this crack is common and not a big deal.  Don't try to repair it.
> 
> For reference, here's a page on engine building tips largely from my Dad.  For racing we strap the center main, not sure it's needed for road use.
> 
> https://tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm
> 
> Regards, Tony Drews
> 
> On 5/27/2026 2:54 PM, Brian Ray wrote:
>> Good afternoon, FOT,
>> I have this crack in the bridge between cylinders 2 and 3. Is this something I would have to consider replacing the block for? I am building this to a fast road specification. With that said, should I also bridge or strap the center main bearing cap? Any guidance is appreciated.
>> Thank you,
>> Brian Ray
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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> 
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