[Fot] TR6 Harmonic Dampener

[Chip Collingwood]

Hey Bob,

Fletchers car had the cross brace modified, as I remember with a BFH. You
could remove it and take a bit out of the rear section of the tube, then
weld in a plate so it looks factory. Not certain you want to mess with
moving the rack forward. Fletchers motor had a gilmer belt drive for the
w/p and sump pump

Chip Collingwood
theukmotorsports.com
(804) 564-1839

On Wed, Sep 24, 2025, 11:05 AM Joe Boruch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Bob, I don't know TR6s that well, but here's a different approach. Is
> there anyway to notch the front cross member and put spacers to move the
> steering rack?  On Honda S2000s it's a common practice to make the front
> cross member removable to make pulling the engine easier.  That did not
> make the change the structural integrity.  Notching it can be done without
> reducing integrity.  JoeB
>
> On Wednesday, September 24, 2025 at 09:14:43 AM EDT, Robert Lang via Fot <
> fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> After I got my frame straightened last year, I've noticed that the
> clearance between the ATI harmonic dampener and the front cross member and
> the steering rack seems tighter than what I previously had. Granted how
> much metal had been bent in the crash, I'm not surprised.
>
> So, I have a question for the hive - to compensate, I plan to push the
> engine back a tad, maybe 1/4" or so using the "usual method" of installing
> a metal plate in the engine mount to frame interface. The question: in
> moving the engine back in small increments, will I have to "shorten" the
> driveshaft or is the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-speed
> TR6 transmission) already able to compensate for moving the engine back.
>
> I'm not planning to go wild and make the car "mid-engined". I'm just
> looking to compensate for some "rearranged metal" in the front of the car.
> That and I also had to switch back to "stock" rubber motor mounts as
> opposed to the HD units that TRF used to sell. Else, if there's a source
> for stiffer stock-type TR6 engine mounts, I'm all ears. The softer stock
> units allow a LOT of motion in both axis of motion.
>
> After two broken cranks this season and reviewing my in-car vids, it looks
> like I'm not abusing the self-imposed redline of 6000 except occasional
> hell-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Christian!!) that I need to smooth out.
> But I think the crank is hitting the frame while spinning and that's adding
> more stress to the snout of the crank.
>
> TIA
>
> Bob Lang
> 339 927 4489
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