[Fot] Koni vs Gaz vs Spax - TR6 racecar

Thu Feb 1 06:33:06 MST 2024

  Hi,
Hopefully not to beat a dead horse...
The "trick" with the TR6 is that the stock pickup location on the TR6 trailing arm is further outboard than the pickup for the solid axle cars. In short, that's the real "challenge" for IRS Triumphs. Also, the stock shock location is transverse to the frame rail... last, the trailing arm motion is an arc up and down AND side to side. Hence both ends of the shock mount should be heims joints or otherwise be able to articulate in two planes of motion.

The Gp 44 solution uses a member of the roll cage as the upper mount for a beefy shock and they, most likely out of necessity, reinforced the heck out of the mount point on the trailing arm. It's an awesome setup from the standpoint of strength and function. They also had Heims joints on both ends of the shock body (and springs are in the stock location, presumably as required by the rules).

As much fun as it can be to squeeze the rulebook, it can also be fun to squeeze it the other way and be as close to stock as possible. IMHO, that's what a lot of folks did back in the old days with things like Armstrong 22's, etc. The look on some folks' faces when you tell them you have a stock suspension setup is "priceless".

I'll add one more suggestion to Mark's quest - Goodparts sells a trailing arm shock link that is super strong and works very well in conjunction with the uprated Armstrong shocks. I mention this because the available shock links from the usual sources use an elastomer that breaks down fairly quickly and that translates to having to replace them every 4 to 6 events, at least that was my experience. I;ve had the Gooparts link on the car for 7+ years and no issues at all.
Summary:Trialing arm motion is a 2 dimensional arcProper bump stops are absolutely criticalStock shock location is very good using the uprated stock-style shockStock shock links suck, upgrade to Goodparts of fabricate your ownMATCH YOUR SHOCK SETTINGS TO YOUR SPRINGS  <- SUPER IMPORTANT
Regards,Bob Lang

    On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 08:51:45 PM EST, Ponostyle <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote:  

 You guys just don’t squeeze the rulebook hard enough. If your roll cage is “braced” by extending from near the top of the cage to the rear spring mount or thereabout, you have an ideal place to mount a shock that doesn’t depend on a spindly frame. Also makes said spindly frame a lot less spindly.
Bill Babcock
Beach Bum
bill at ponostyle.com
https://www.Ponostyle.com

On Jan 31, 2024, at 11:38 AM, Mark Cook via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Bob and Charly,  Thanks – It crossed my mind about potential rear frame damage with the tube shock bracket when I was inspecting the rear shocks.  Not a lot of support there compared to the original lever shocks.  So, with your and Charly’s comments, will likely refit with adjustable lever shocks for the rear.  Appreciate both your and Mark S’s comments on Delrin/Nylatron which is also helpful.     Hope to see you at VIR in March/April.  Will not be driving, but will be up to watch.  Thanks you,  Mark  From: Robert Lang [mailto:robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2024 1:40 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net; Mark Cook
Subject: Re: [Fot] Koni vs Gaz vs Spax - TR6 racecar  Hi,  Go with the Koni shocks in front. The SPAX shocks work well, but the gas leaks out and they become "just shocks" and without the gas, they can foam which effects the shock efficiency over the course of a session. Or plan to replace the Spax every two years, plus or minus.  For the rears, unless you converted to a coil over setup and / or tie your shocks to your roll cage GET RID OF THE TUBE SHOCKS. I have seen a lot of problems with the conversion shock setups out there and you risk frame damage running with those shocks. I can write a lot on this topic, but unless you can verify the action of the bump stops AND secure the shocks via rod ends, I will guarantee frame structural failure over time.  So - get a set of stock Armstrong lever shocks for the rear and get nosimport.com (worldwide autoparts in Madison, WI) to rebuild them as adjustable and you get both a workable, reliable setup and it will work without messing up your frame. Unless you do stupid things like I do and bottom the suspension and break the frame, but I digress. I've run the Armstong adjustables for a long time and they work great. With a little tuning, you can get rid of the rear squat when you tromp on it, Makes the car handle completely differently.  Delrin is a trademark, I believe - the material is the same as Nylatron. You can verify by looking at the durometer ratings.  Regards,Bob Lang  On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 01:24:07 PM EST, Mark Cook via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:     
Quick question (maybe?).   I am replacing the existing Koni front adjustable shocks (PN 80-1784).  Bushings are worn out as likely are the shocks. Same with the rear adjustable SPAX shocks on my ’69 TR6 racecar.  I am more familiar with Bilstein, Koni and MCS.  

Any preference?  Spax and Gaz are unknown to me, but the external adjuster is appealing compared to having to remove the Koni’s every time I need to adjust the suspension.

Using the “while I am in there” approach, I will be replacing all the front/rear suspension bushings.  Have purchased Nylatron bushings.  Cannot find Delrin products for TR6.

Thanks,

Mark Cook

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