[Fot] Connecting rod question

Thu Jan 26 08:33:55 MST 2023

Yes, I’ve had to do this on the early 6 blocks, for some reason the casting had changed in the later blocks, no clearance problem.

Charly Mitchel

TR6 #44

From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Erik Jacobsen via Fot
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2023 5:46 AM
To: John H. Hasty <jhasty at mhc-law.com>; Robert Lang <robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Connecting rod question

Bob,

Yes, I also ran into the issue of the side of the MS rod hitting the bottom of the bore. Nothing like taking a grinder to a freshly honed block! As it turned out, I only needed to make about an 1/8" chamfer on one side. Car has been running well for a couple of race weekends so far. Even survived Henry Morrison racing it at RA! Just kidding, Henry was a huge help with sorting and set up. I also have the MS roods in my Sprite 1275 and in our TR3. Seem to be pretty bombproof, and the price point is hard to beat.

Hope to see you all at the Cup in July!

Jake

On Thursday, January 26, 2023 at 07:24:26 AM CST, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> > wrote: 

Hi - For TR6, the challenge is the bore being less than 3 inches. A lot of the aftermarket rod big ends won't fit down the bore. So, from this seat, the choices are limited. The Max SPeeding rods use 5/16" ARP 2000 rod bolts, so they will not fit into a stock bore, you MUST overbore by +.030 or more. At least that's what I recall. Most of us will go for a max. overbore to be legal, +.040 but there's most likely some motors out there that are more than .040 over... the point being that the larger than stock big end dimensions will work with those over-overbores. One potential "gotcha" for the H-beam rods is the side clearance to the bottom of the piston bore on one side is almost zero, so you have to relieve the bottom of the piston bore for clearance. This is no big deal, but it must be done. This is one area where the Carillo and Pauter has an advantage... one less "step" in the build process.

I will also say that I built a motor a few years ago with the MaxSpeeding Rods and had them checked out and found them to be as others reported, dimensions spot on, and balanced and equal weight within less than 1 gram across the set. Actually, 5 rods were the same weight and one was about .5 grams heavier. I also saw a small variance in the small end bush and had to lightly hone 1 of the rods to get the wrist pin to fit properly. Honestly, the finish of the parts was impressive. I'll probably use them again. The biggest reason: when I bought that set, it was less expensive for a entire set than it would be to recondition and balance a set of stock rods.

I don't have enough hours on that engine to address longevity, but I will say that at the time I bought the set from Max SPeeding, several FOTs also reported on or off list that they had good experience with them. I have seen zero reports to the contrary.

Based on that experience, other than potential questions about the material composition of the rods, e.g. 4130 steel, I wouldn't steer anyone away from using these parts. And right now, I'll take new metal over stuff that was made when the earth was still cooling... anytime.

Regards,

Bob Lang

On Wednesday, January 25, 2023 at 11:26:14 PM EST, John H. Hasty via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> > wrote: 

Gosh guys, with the almost unlimited selection of racing rods for Ford and Chevy v8 monster engines at reasonable prices, why are you paying and praying for stock  sized replicas?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 25, 2023, at 8:42 PM, Barr, Scott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I’ve used the Pauter rods to good effect, too.  They have proven very durable for me!

Scott (B.)

From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Brad Eells via Fot
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2023 1:48 PM
To: walt at hot-tr6.com <mailto:walt at hot-tr6.com> 
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Fot] Connecting rod question

Walt,

I went with Pauter rods for the Spitfire due to the use of a larger rod bolt than Carillo.

Marty Sukey posted some very nasty pictures of his Carillos and a rod bolt failure…good enough for me.

Not sure how it will apply to TR6 items but worth a look.

Brad Eells

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 25, 2023, at 11:33 AM, Walt Hollowell via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I have built a few full race engines for my TR6 using MaxSpeeding connecting rods with acceptable results. For my next build I am considering Carrillo rods which run about $650 more than the MaxSpeeding rods. 

Do and FOT members feel that the Carrillo rods are worth the extra bucks or should I be happy with the MaxSpeeding considering the affordability?

Thanks,

Walter Hollowell

Albuquerque, New Mexico

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