[Fot] [TR] Sealants used on Fo8 gaskets

Tue Feb 9 06:49:34 MST 2021

Bob;
Thanks. I didn’t know about the JD sealant. 
As far as drying, I ran a test and the anaerobic works best when it is not exposed to air. As with Loctite, it sets up when isolated from air. I tried to send some photos to Joe and all but I gather they didn’t make it. I’ll attach them in a smaller size to a separate email and hope for the best.
Regards,
Phil

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 9, 2021, at 8:14 AM, Bob Kramer <rkramer56 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Phil
> 
> That anaerobic gasket maker may work but I think it is risky. I doubt it will ever dry out, with the outer layer setting up and sealing the inner layers. Maybe engine heat wil help. One man's opinion and we all know that everyone got one........
> 
> If I was going to try something I'd be tempted to use the Hylomar 101.  It is ivory in color and is a room temperature vulcanising (RTV) silicone compound. They advertise that Hylosil 101 has good resistance to oils and aqueous anti-freeze agents. Unlike general-purpose silicone
> sealants, Hylosil 101 contains no solvents and does not give off acetic acid during cure.
> 
> I used to use it to fill the gaps in the transmission mount, for better vibration resistance and to hold it together when it inevitably split.  Now we have the ARE trans mount. 
> 
> This stuff is most easily acquired from a John Deere Dealership.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bob Kramer
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 8, 2021 at 5:16 PM Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> Joe:
>> We fill the gap completely with the anaerobic sealant. After cleaning all surfaces well I use the tapered nozzle they supply, cut it to fit into the trapezoid and then put a washer over the end to seal it up. Then I use one of those toothpaste tube keys to squeeze the tube, forcing the sealant gel into the trapezoid. Keep squeezing until I see the gel come out of the chamfered area at the base of the rear main cap. That way I know the trapezoidal volume is full.
>> 
>> It would probably be easier to buy a cartridge and put it in with a caulking gun, but that’s kinda pricey (~$50).
>> 
>> One regular size tube will do two engines. They get very hard to squeeze, even with the key, when they get near the end.
>> 
>> Because it is anaerobic, the gel won’t set up near the oil pan surface if you leave it exposed to air. Covering it with a piece of tape works well. You can then peel the tape off when you put the oil pan on. Or install the pan immediately. I have laid some “Ultra” black rtv right on top of the uncured aerobic gel, then put on the oil pan (with or without gasket as you prefer) and had it all set up just fine.
>> 
>> Hope this helps.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Phil
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Feb 8, 2021, at 5:05 PM, Joe Boruch <jaboruch at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> Phil, how are you using the Anearobic sealant? Are you still using felt, or are you filling the gap where the felt would be with the Anearobic sealant?   JoeB.
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 8, 2021, 04:28:25 PM EST, Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Joe;
>>> We’ve used the two of them together in two different engines. The Permatex was washed away from the rear main seal cap sides in both cases.
>>> In fairness, in that application it takes a very long time to dry, and so it may have not set completely before we ran the engine. But we never had that issue until using the Driven synthetic oil. Which, BTW, seems to be really good stuff!  Thanks to Ken Knight for  the recommendation.
>>> We’ve switched to Permatex Anaerobic sealant and it works very well. Much easier than soaked felt....
>>> Phil Gott
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Feb 8, 2021, at 4:20 PM, Joe Boruch <jaboruch at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks David.  Driven says that their oils should not cause your issue, but they think you may have an issue with fuel dilution.  They did suggest not to use the Aviation Permatex, since it can be affected by aromatic solvents (which is what gasoline is).  I looked at the instructions for Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac and it does not say that it is affected by aromatic solvents.  The instructions for Aviation Permatex say that is affected by aromatic solvents.  Looks like for my next build that I will go back to using Indian Head (if it has not been deemed to be un PC by then).  
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks for bringing this issue to light.  Joe B.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Monday, February 8, 2021, 02:57:29 PM EST, David Gott <triumphsix at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Hi Joe,
>>>> 
>>>> Here’s some pictures of the felts in my engine after being washed clean by Driven XP3.  You can see the cement is washed out of the felts upon removal, and also the permatex parted along the seam of the block/cap.   Never happened before running the oil.  Hondabond held up just fine afterwards.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
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