[Fot] GT6 Crankshaft

[McKearn McKearn]

Thanks. That makes sense now ..

On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 9:38 AM Jason Sukey <jsukey at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi PJ,
>          In theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston,
> the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal better.  And
> the piston can be shorter with less mass.
>
> Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder
> wall.  Less friction for more power and less wear.
>
> There's also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we
> are making enough change here to count this as a benefit.
>
> I can't say exactly how much power it's really worth, .... but if you are
> ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add any cost to make
> them "better".
>
> Jason
>
> On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn <mckearn2 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?
>>                             Thanks. P.J.
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> You don’t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but
>>> what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons
>>> Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and
>>> nitrided, but with a stock "damper".  No issues reving safely north of
>>> 7,000.  Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.
>>>
>>> I have Pauter rods,  a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger
>>> bolts.   (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)
>>>
>>> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone
>>> out of business.
>>>
>>> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route,  consider having
>>> the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer
>>> rods to match.
>>>
>>> Jason
>>>
>>> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration
>>>> damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  I’m not sure
>>>> you need billet on a GT6.  Never had a bottom end failure.
>>>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be
>>>> torqued by stretch gauge.  If you use the wrong lube on them you can
>>>> overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask me
>>>> how I know).
>>>> Pistons - I’ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me -
>>>> reasonable price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>>>>
>>>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <
>>>> fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi all.
>>>>  Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts.  Also looking for
>>>> opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the bottom
>>>> end this time..
>>>>                              Thanks . P.J.
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>
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