[Fot] GT6 Crankshaft

[Jason Sukey]

Hi PJ,
         In theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston,
the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal better.  And
the piston can be shorter with less mass.

Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder
wall.  Less friction for more power and less wear.

There's also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we are
making enough change here to count this as a benefit.

I can't say exactly how much power it's really worth, .... but if you are
ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add any cost to make
them "better".

Jason

On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn <mckearn2 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?
>                             Thanks. P.J.
>
> On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> You don’t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what
>> you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons
>> Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and
>> nitrided, but with a stock "damper".  No issues reving safely north of
>> 7,000.  Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.
>>
>> I have Pauter rods,  a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger
>> bolts.   (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)
>>
>> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone
>> out of business.
>>
>> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route,  consider having
>> the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer
>> rods to match.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration
>>> damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  I’m not sure
>>> you need billet on a GT6.  Never had a bottom end failure.
>>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be
>>> torqued by stretch gauge.  If you use the wrong lube on them you can
>>> overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask me
>>> how I know).
>>> Pistons - I’ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable
>>> price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>>>
>>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all.
>>>  Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts.  Also looking for
>>> opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the bottom
>>> end this time..
>>>                              Thanks . P.J.
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