[Fot] GT6 Crankshaft

[Geoff Byrne]

You don’t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons 
Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under

Sent from my iPad

> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with a stock "damper".  No issues reving safely north of 7,000.  Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.
> 
> I have Pauter rods,  a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger bolts.   (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly) 
> 
> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone out of business.
> 
> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route,  consider having the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer rods to match.
> 
> Jason
> 
>> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  I’m not sure you need billet on a GT6.  Never had a bottom end failure.
>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be torqued by stretch gauge.  If you use the wrong lube on them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask me how I know).
>> Pistons - I’ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>> 
>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all.
>>  Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts.  Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the bottom end this time..
>>                              Thanks . P.J.
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