[Fot] cracked block

[tr4racing at googlemail.com]

Hi,

 

most of the TR3/4 blocks are killed by head studs driven in with tools instead by running them down by hand.

If the water jacket of the block is not centered properly the wall between thread and water gets quite thin.

If the stud is ran in with a tool plus the torque of the head nuts this is too much for the cast iron to hold and the block develops cracks at the short bolts.

 

As a repair you can try to bring in a thread sleeve and soldering the block with silver solder.

 

Cheers

Chris

 

 

Von: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> Im Auftrag von Brian Schirano via Fot
Gesendet: Sonntag, 22. November 2020 23:12
An: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Betreff: [Fot] cracked block

 

Hey Amichi

Figured as I need to keep busy I'd start stripping a motor to prep as back up race motor build this winter. And as I'm razer blading the block surface so I could take decking measurements I see a crack in the water jacket through the RR head stud hole out to the block exterior. (SOB!!! link to pics <https://photos.app.goo.gl/4ArkTSrR3q7Zep2YA> ) I've heard of blocks being welded and have some recollection that this stud is a weak spot? Don't know anything about the motor/block, was donated to me, it did have antifreeze in it when I started working on it, so? Interesting how it travels from the jacket through the stud hole and continues out to the exterior. Does not appear to run deep, maybe an inch or so.

 

Anywise, looking for comments. I'll be talking to my machinist as well and depending on comments and his thoughts will have it cleaned and thoroughly inspected and magged.

 

Lastly, damper dudes or damper doc, or ? for damper rebuilds?

 

Thanks Friends

Be Careful out there

Brian




-- 

Brian Schirano

585-305-0349

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