From macdonaldp at rogers.com Sun Mar 1 14:45:52 2020 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 16:45:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$.ref@rogers.com> Message-ID: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Hi I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. Can I get a second? Thanks Paul MacDonald -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 15:23:07 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 14:23:07 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise In-Reply-To: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Message-ID: Second here! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 1, 2020, at 1:46 PM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi > > I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. > > Can I get a second? > > Thanks > Paul MacDonald > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Sun Mar 1 16:07:48 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:07:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise In-Reply-To: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$.ref@rogers.com> <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Message-ID: <1560885502.4267053.1583104068451@mail.yahoo.com> Second!? I spoke with him (by email) regarding his Group 44 Spitfire for sale.? Wish I had the money!-- Jay De Pol -----Original Message----- From: Paul MacDonald via Fot To: Fot Cc: classicbrit Sent: Sun, Mar 1, 2020 4:51 pm Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise <!-- #yiv5484185488 _filtered {} #yiv5484185488 #yiv5484185488 p.yiv5484185488MsoNormal, #yiv5484185488 li.yiv5484185488MsoNormal, #yiv5484185488 div.yiv5484185488MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} #yiv5484185488 a:link, #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5484185488 a:visited, #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Times New Roman", "serif";color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #yiv5484185488 .yiv5484185488MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} _filtered {} #yiv5484185488 div.yiv5484185488WordSection1 {} -->Hi ?I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. ?Can I get a second? ?ThanksPaul MacDonald_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 1 16:29:44 2020 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:29:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 1 16:53:05 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:53:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1054775077.4298213.1583106785036@mail.yahoo.com> My data is a little dated, but when I was racing my TR-4 I always used the steel competition head gasket, which was supplied by the factory as part of the decompression kit for cars destined for Europe, which did not have the required octane in their fuel.? I used a regional product called "Gaska-Cinch", which was recommended by an old racer/friend from the St, Louis area.? I started using it in about 1980, and for the next 17 years, never had a failure. More recently, I rebuilt the engine in my TR-3 (street car). and used a head gasket by Cometic.? They normally make head gaskets for? stock cars and drag racers, so I? was surprised that they would make one for a TR-3/4.? They might also make one for a TR-6.? It is a steel, multi-layer gasket, but it has worked fine.? Going on about 5 years now on a 10.5"1 compression TR-3/4 engine. For what it's worth, that's my experience. Jack On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:12 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sun Mar 1 19:13:57 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:13:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> Hi, Brian, My GT6 runs about 11.5:1 and I have always run a Payen head gasket - some kind of black composite sandwiched around steel or aluminum, with aluminum(?) fire rings. I?ve got a fairly high performance engine - 175 HP +/-. Standard Moss issue. Never had an issue in ten years. For the leak issue you have, I?ve found putting Permatex black around the perimeter of the pushrod area on the block and head (both sides of the gasket) solves the problem. There?s not as much clamping force over there, and mine always used to leak too. No more! Scott Janzen ?68 GT6 On Mar 1, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 19:31:57 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:31:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> Message-ID: Same gasket here, always payen with fire ring, with my motor a little milder (understatement) than Scott's? On Sun, Mar 1, 2020, 9:14 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Hi, Brian, > My GT6 runs about 11.5:1 and I have always run a Payen head gasket - some > kind of black composite sandwiched around steel or aluminum, with > aluminum(?) fire rings. I?ve got a fairly high performance engine - 175 HP > +/-. > Standard Moss issue. Never had an issue in ten years. > For the leak issue you have, I?ve found putting Permatex black around the > perimeter of the pushrod area on the block and head (both sides of the > gasket) solves the problem. There?s not as much clamping force over there, > and mine always used to leak too. No more! > > Scott Janzen > ?68 GT6 > > On Mar 1, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot > wrote: > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak > at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before > this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck > height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Sun Mar 1 21:50:33 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:50:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column Message-ID: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> FOTs - does anyone have an unneeded adjustable TR3 steering column or know where I might find one? It helps my legroom. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Sun Mar 1 23:31:58 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (Geoff Byrne) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 17:31:58 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone > On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > ? Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 2 00:29:23 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 08:29:23 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian [ https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS | Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Mar 2 01:12:08 2020 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 09:12:08 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel _____ Van: "fot" > Aan: "Brian Dennis" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot > wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 2 04:03:52 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 06:03:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Eagle Gate bell housing References: <82C973C7-B579-49CD-870C-80A9A2B59E97.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <82C973C7-B579-49CD-870C-80A9A2B59E97@aol.com> Does anyone have for sale an Eagle Gate bell housing for the TR2-6 / Toyota W-58 transmission conversion? I have the HVDA conversion and the the Quartermaster concentric slave cylinder failed me twice at Sebring last weekend, and I want too use the stock slave and system with the Eagle Gate. If no Eagle Gate bell housing, any other ideas for a throwout bearing actuator? Phil Gott 508 414 0256 Sent from my iPhone From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 2 07:22:06 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 15:22:06 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <913767026.145513868.1583158926141.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Chris, I don't think so much about sex, but even then I'm right : what do you do with the "69" stand?! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 09:12:08 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel Van: "fot" < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > Aan: "Brian Dennis" < [ mailto:britracer89 at yahoo.com | britracer89 at yahoo.com ] > Cc: "fot" < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian [ https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS | Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 07:26:56 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 14:26:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv3671954296 #yiv3671954296 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3671954296 #yiv3671954296 p.yiv3671954296MsoNormal, #yiv3671954296 li.yiv3671954296MsoNormal, #yiv3671954296 div.yiv3671954296MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3671954296 a:link, #yiv3671954296 span.yiv3671954296MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3671954296 span.yiv3671954296E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3671954296 .yiv3671954296MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3671954296 div.yiv3671954296WordSection1 {}#yiv3671954296 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel ? Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.? Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks,? Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Mar 2 08:02:04 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 15:02:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> I knew it, Bill D would be the first to post a witty comeback!Good job Bill...Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 9:27 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv3192237190 -- filtered {} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 p.yiv3192237190MsoNormal, #yiv3192237190 li.yiv3192237190MsoNormal, #yiv3192237190 div.yiv3192237190MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv3192237190 a:link, #yiv3192237190 span.yiv3192237190MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3192237190 span.yiv3192237190E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv3192237190 .yiv3192237190MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 div.yiv3192237190WordSection1 {} #yiv3192237190 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ?CheersChris ? ?Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?Geoff,Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise!Marcel ?Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the bestGeoff ByrneTR6 racer down underSent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 09:03:30 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 16:03:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1737311415.3032198.1583165010850@mail.yahoo.com> Glen... I'm old, but I'm not dead... Bill -----Original Message----- From: fubog1 To: billdentin ; fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 7:02 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I knew it, Bill D would be the first to post a witty comeback!Good job Bill...Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 9:27 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv9642021526 -- filtered {}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 p.yiv9642021526MsoNormal, #yiv9642021526 li.yiv9642021526MsoNormal, #yiv9642021526 div.yiv9642021526MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9642021526 a:link, #yiv9642021526 span.yiv9642021526MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9642021526 span.yiv9642021526E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9642021526 .yiv9642021526MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 div.yiv9642021526WordSection1 {}#yiv9642021526 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ?CheersChris ? ?Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?Geoff,Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise!Marcel ?Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the bestGeoff ByrneTR6 racer down underSent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 2 15:03:34 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 22:03:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. ;-) By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". c ya,Bob Lang On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 2 16:57:26 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 18:57:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear main seal leaks have stopped. The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). > > I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. > > ;-) > > By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. > > There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". > > c ya, > Bob Lang > > On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Mon Mar 2 21:03:51 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 20:03:51 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Lay some small diameter copper wire around the area you want to seal and th deal is over. I used Gasket Cinch to hold the wire in place on the head. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 3:57 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear > main seal leaks have stopped. > The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot > wrote: > > ? > Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of > pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get > less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). > > I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. > > ;-) > > By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the > fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts > oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting > pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. > > There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve > pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank > case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". > > c ya, > Bob Lang > > On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak > at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before > this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck > height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 21:21:20 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 04:21:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <1573023583.3445807.1583209280713.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1573023583.3445807.1583209280713@mail.yahoo.com> I am almost sure that Ken Gillanders?used to sell us gaskets?that had a grove pressed?in them for that copper wire. ?It worked slick.? Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Kas Kastner via Fot??wrote: Lay some small diameter?copper wire around the?area you want to seal and th deal is over. I used Gasket Cinch to hold the wire in place on the?head. Never be beaten by equipment. On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 3:57 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear main seal leaks have stopped.The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: ? Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. ;-) By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". c ya,Bob Lang On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Tue Mar 3 01:03:31 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (geoff byrne) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 19:03:31 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Some of us Aussies rather like the fact we are ?down under? has a certain charm but in Aus if you are out passed the black stump you really are in hillbilly territory Regards Geoff From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be [mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be] Sent: Monday, March 2, 2020 6:29 PM To: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel _____ Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Wed Mar 4 03:59:04 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 20:59:04 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. i hope this might assist someone Terry (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Wed Mar 4 06:23:45 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:23:45 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. Scott On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. i hope this might assist someone Terry (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 06:44:00 2020 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (James Palmer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:44:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F7168E5-E9AE-47A2-BCD9-0CE13EDA046A@yahoo.com> I think I found it on eBay, as long as it is WURTH 250, not WURT 250? I ordered a tube just in case, it was less than $15 delivered to the US from the UK. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 4, 2020, at 8:25 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 06:44:00 2020 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (James Palmer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:44:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F7168E5-E9AE-47A2-BCD9-0CE13EDA046A@yahoo.com> I think I found it on eBay, as long as it is WURTH 250, not WURT 250? I ordered a tube just in case, it was less than $15 delivered to the US from the UK. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 4, 2020, at 8:25 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 06:47:14 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 07:47:14 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by route jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some product for me. Bob Kramer On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but > not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have > tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., > with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly > there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we > do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head > does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the > pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst > and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big > issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest > improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race > 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on > the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes > before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it > and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever > "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a > copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray > or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head > gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but > eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 > RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if > applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed > with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has > a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes > of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > > >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 13:13:53 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 15:13:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: When I was looking I found Worth America and it pulled up red permatex I was going to start over tonight On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 8:46 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by route > jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some > product for me. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot > wrote: > >> interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but >> not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. >> >> Scott >> >> On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have >> tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., >> with none of them totally fixing it >> >> unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly >> there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we >> do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head >> does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the >> pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst >> and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big >> issue to be solved as others have discussed >> >> long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest >> improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race >> 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! >> >> my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on >> the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes >> before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it >> and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever >> "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a >> copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray >> or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head >> gasket, but some copper ones may benefit >> >> we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but >> eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 >> RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if >> applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed >> with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has >> a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes >> of it every week, so that was not an issue. >> >> i hope this might assist someone >> >> Terry >> (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) >> >> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jsukey at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 13:23:50 2020 From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 15:23:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: Do any of you guys have experience with the Lucas HD head gaskets that have the silicone bead around the edges? Jason Sukey On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 3:14 PM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > When I was looking I found Worth America and it pulled up red permatex > I was going to start over tonight > > On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 8:46 AM Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > >> I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by >> route jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some >> product for me. >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >> On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but >>> not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. >>> >>> Scott >>> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >>> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>> like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and >>> have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc >>> etc., with none of them totally fixing it >>> >>> unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly >>> there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we >>> do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head >>> does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the >>> pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst >>> and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big >>> issue to be solved as others have discussed >>> >>> long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest >>> improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race >>> 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! >>> >>> my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on >>> the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes >>> before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it >>> and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever >>> "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a >>> copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray >>> or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head >>> gasket, but some copper ones may benefit >>> >>> we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but >>> eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 >>> RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if >>> applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed >>> with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has >>> a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes >>> of it every week, so that was not an issue. >>> >>> i hope this might assist someone >>> >>> Terry >>> (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) >>> >>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Wed Mar 4 19:30:36 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:30:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 19:34:17 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:34:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <158769871.82373.1583375657962@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Jay, SFI belts are 2 years, FIA are 5 years, and conveniently are 2.5x more expensive... Hope that helps! Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 9:30 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Mar 4 19:46:48 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:46:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. ?Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. ?One enters ten events a year for three years. ?The other guy races once. ?Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? ?I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Wednesday, March 4, 2020,?kkjjk--- via Fot??wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:13:48 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:13:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:13:48 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:13:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:19:43 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 03:19:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> Message-ID: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott To: kkjjk Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at seiri.com Wed Mar 4 21:23:49 2020 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 23:23:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Phil Gott > To: kkjjk > Cc: fot > Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts > > If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. > Phil Gott > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Wed Mar 4 21:28:43 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 23:28:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column In-Reply-To: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> References: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> Message-ID: <01ab01d5f2a6$91a06ac0$b4e14040$@cox.net> I apologize for bothering everyone again, but can someone tell me what is the difference in the adjustable and non-adjustable TR3 steering columns? It's hard to tell from the parts manual. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 From: Fot On Behalf Of Henry Giffin via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020 11:51 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column FOTs - does anyone have an unneeded adjustable TR3 steering column or know where I might find one? It helps my legroom. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 23:36:37 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:36:37 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Couldn't find anything specific at SVRA's site. Our group, VARA requires rewebbing at 5 years from date of manufacture. Crow Enterprises is courteous enough to offer a rewebbing service without replacing the hardware on their belt systems. Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 6:30 PM kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have > read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I > just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June > 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be > "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are > over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Mar 5 04:32:55 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:32:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A2BB058-830A-408C-A4FD-DD4FB5F08C1A@aol.com> Thank you Robert! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 11:23 PM, robert bownes wrote: > > ? > My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). > > I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! > > By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > > > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Phil Gott >> To: kkjjk >> Cc: fot >> Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts >> >> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. >> Phil Gott >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Mar 5 04:32:55 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:32:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A2BB058-830A-408C-A4FD-DD4FB5F08C1A@aol.com> Thank you Robert! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 11:23 PM, robert bownes wrote: > > ? > My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). > > I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! > > By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > > > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Phil Gott >> To: kkjjk >> Cc: fot >> Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts >> >> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. >> Phil Gott >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 5 06:40:56 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:40:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Back in my climbing days when I had my sewing business, I was interested in how nylon ropes and webbing deteriorated.? The number 1 killer was UV light.? And climbing gear, aat least when being used and not gathering dust in the basement, gets a LOT of exposure to sunlight.? The second major cause of wear was abrasion.? Obviously having a climbing rope slide over a rough edge is bad for it, but the less obvious and more common case is gritty dust particles getting trapped in the weave, causing a little bit of abrasion every time it moves. Luckily, though, it is always cloudy and raining at racetracks, so seat belts never see sunshine, and there is never any dust blowing around that can settle on the webbing as the cars sit in the paddock. mjb. From quikrx at yahoo.com Thu Mar 5 07:11:40 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:11:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> Message-ID: <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Thu Mar 5 07:15:49 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:15:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> I forgot to mention, I have access to racing belts from a few suppliers - I'll get the list together later and repost what I can get, save you all some $$ if I can RalphApex2Apex Motorsportsapex2apexmotorsports at yahoo.com847 840 7366 On Thursday, March 5, 2020, 08:12:00 AM CST, ralph hansen via Fot wrote: MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Thu Mar 5 07:44:50 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:44:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks to all for your responses.? Robert and Mark, those are very interesting stories! -----Original Message----- From: ralph hansen via Fot Cc: fot Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 9:15 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts I forgot to mention, I have access to racing belts from a few suppliers - I'll get the list together later and repost what I can get, save you all some $$ if I can RalphApex2Apex Motorsportsapex2apexmotorsports at yahoo.com847 840 7366 On Thursday, March 5, 2020, 08:12:00 AM CST, ralph hansen via Fot wrote: MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Thu Mar 5 08:13:36 2020 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 15:13:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Looking for a particular fellow GT6 enthusiast In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi fellow FOT members, I am looking for a chap I was in touch with by phone this past summer regarding teaming up on building a rear axle conversion for our Rotoflex cars. I?m hoping you are on this list and will please respond to my personal email address. I?m in Ontario and as I recall you were in the US just south of me about 6 hours or so. Vince Garrett vangoughv at hotmail.com ________________________________ This message is being sent on behalf of the Simcoe County District School Board and/or your child?s school in compliance with the Canadian Anti-Spam Legislation. Questions regarding this electronic communication may be referred to: CASL, Simcoe County District School Board, 1170 Highway 26, Midhurst, Ontario, L9X 1N6. ________________________________ You may unsubscribe from receiving these messages by FORWARDING this email to "unsubscribe at scdsb.on.ca". ________________________________ This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for the use of the addressee(s) and may contain information that is privileged or confidential and protected under the Education Act and the Municipal Freedom of Information and Protection of Privacy Act. If you are not the intended recipient, or responsible for delivering the information to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, printing or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If this e-mail and any attachments were received in error, please notify the sender by reply e-mail and delete the original message. Please consider the environment before printing this email or attachments. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Mar 5 12:05:56 2020 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:05:56 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Thu Mar 5 12:17:02 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 13:17:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf until I find a use for them. That last part is s struggle. Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: > Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that > died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? > > I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? > > I also know I already lost this argument. > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > Sent from Outlook > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via > Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM > *To:* fot at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Seat belts > > Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each > buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a > year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves > should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need > to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. > > Bill Dentinger > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > > On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have > read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I > just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June > 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be > "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are > over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Thu Mar 5 12:21:29 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:21:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> I have tons also from SCCA? racing.....if someone can use, lemme know. In a message dated 3/5/2020 2:16:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what?organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf?until I find a use for them.? That last part is s struggle.? Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date?? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion.? Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date.? One enters ten events a year for three years.? The other guy races once.? Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date?? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Wednesday, March 4, 2020,?kkjjk--- via Fot??wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Mar 5 13:28:49 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 06:28:49 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: it may not be relevant to you guys in the USA, buts its worth mentioning that our local FIA 'agent", Motorsport Australia , commissioned research & testing into race seat belt life a few years ago. As a result, they have extended the life of "notional" 5 year FIA approved belts to 10 years, provided they have zero visual damage which includes extreme sun fading. They however ratified the 2-year life on SFI approved belts. I have asked for a copy of the technical report to support their conclusion and will post up a link or a copy when possible. Most people i race with use FIA approved belts. Mostly, we all tend to avoid SFI rated material as it has a very short approval life and almost the same cost (here) as FIA approved stuff. The latest FIA standards require dynamic sled testing of harnesses and components to 70g, which they claim comes from accident data and is survivable in modern race cars. My reading suggests the SFI testing does not include dynamic testing, simply stating maximum static failure forces, but i'll happily be contradicted. I would also comment that nearly everyone here has changed their belts over the past few years with the use of HANS devices which mostly require a 2" or narrower section in the over-shoulder belt . Nearly every race and rally 'speed" event here, now mandates HANS devices of some 'approved" form. The harness anchor locations have also come in for a lot more attention recently, especially as the shoulder harness angles are critical for most versions of the HANS device to work as intended. The use of the "crotch strap" has also come into focus and particularly how it is mounted. research has shown that if there is only a single crotch strap, it must be vertical or near vertical to work successfully, Anchors placed half-way under the seat so the strap runs backwards, are frowned upon and i know of a couple of technical scrutineers (inspectors) that have warned racers to fix that before their next event. There is a really good set of videos and articles on the SCHROTH web site for anyone interested. i'm not promoting any brand or system or rule. this is FYI only Terry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Thu Mar 5 17:50:04 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:50:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tee shirt order procedure - clarification Message-ID: Folks, While I have entered orders as I receive them via email, the preferred method is to go to FoT Tee Shirt order sheet and self-enter your order. That reduces the chances of errors, and has worked well for the 29 folks who have used it. Keep those orders coming! Thank you jim -- W4BEA The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily entertained is totally the way to go! ;-) J. Stoll -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Thu Mar 5 18:53:22 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 20:53:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02d001d5f35a$0679f600$136de200$@cox.net> I too have dozens of old belts in boxes in which the new ones arrived. A veterans support group collected them at the VRG Turkey Bowl for many years, but stopped a few years ago. I think they were using them for wounded veterans vehicles. Perhaps someone knows if there is still a program. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 From: Fot On Behalf Of Rick Kristoff via Fot Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 2:21 PM To: rkramer56 at gmail.com; dos_gusanos at msn.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts I have tons also from SCCA racing.....if someone can use, lemme know. In a message dated 3/5/2020 2:16:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf until I find a use for them. That last part is s struggle. Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot > wrote: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook _____ From: Fot > on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot > wrote: Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 9 13:00:17 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 12:00:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 1147/1300 Small Journal Rods Message-ID: Hello Amici, Carrillo is apparently no longer making 1300 small journal rods. Does anyone have a set of them or perhaps Pauter's they may be willing to part with? Thanks, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at web9.com Mon Mar 9 13:05:46 2020 From: bownes at web9.com (robert bownes) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 04:05:46 +0900 Subject: [Fot] 1147/1300 Small Journal Rods In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brad, I have 3. They are, however, having come from my string of exploding 1147's, all U shaped. ;) Bob On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 4:00 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Hello Amici, > > Carrillo is apparently no longer making 1300 small journal rods. Does > anyone have a set of them or perhaps Pauter's they may be willing to part > with? > > Thanks, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agb at compsnw.com Mon Mar 9 18:23:40 2020 From: agb at compsnw.com (Alec Buchan) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 17:23:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hauling help from Boise to Seattle Message-ID: <4de8be87-8910-0719-e657-fe7cd9e4d571@compsnw.com> Wondering if anybody will be traveling from the Twin Falls/Boise ID area to the greater Seattle/Tacoma (or further north) area with an empty trailer? I've got a Triumph Herald sitting in a garage in Twin Falls and a pair of seats in Boise looking to travel home. If so, please drop me a note. Thanks much! Alec Buchan Bellingham, WA 1962 Triumph TR4 SOVREN #5 EP From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 08:01:31 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 14:01:31 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Clutch Disc Message-ID: <24f4e79f1661404f814acc15dee47138@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey membership, found one more brand new Tilton or Quartermaster 7.25" friction disc with the small (7/8" I think) Spitfire 10 spline input shaft hub. Brand new need it gone. They are like 120.00 from Tilton and Quartermaster. I can ship it to the 48 states for a total of 90.00 if you think that is fair. Let me know. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 09:00:50 2020 From: jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com (Jonathan Wright) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:00:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings Message-ID: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... Thanks! Jonathan Wright -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Mar 10 09:20:17 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 11:20:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... Thanks! Jonathan Wright _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 10 10:17:25 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:17:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased. On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control arm Bushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil. We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 10 10:17:25 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:17:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased. On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control arm Bushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil. We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Tue Mar 10 10:23:40 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 16:23:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> References: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> Message-ID: <1963718748.1784664.1583857420456@mail.yahoo.com> I ran solid on my Spit - poly are good and much better than rubber but, solid is best for turn-in, stability and consistency at the limit Ralph On Tuesday, March 10, 2020, 11:18:07 AM CDT, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased.?On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control armBushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil.?We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: ? In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. ?I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. ?I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him...? Thanks!Jonathan Wright_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 10:24:54 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 16:24:54 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Clutch Disc In-Reply-To: References: <24f4e79f1661404f814acc15dee47138@dieselperformanceparts.com> Message-ID: <2ec79fcae20e46f6ac6d4379344b9302@dieselperformanceparts.com> I don?t know it is designed for the tilt on or quartermaster clutches. I think it will be too thin for a stock pressure plate. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Mike Harmuth [mailto:ofracer at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 10:45 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Disc Hi Mark, if it will work with a stock pressure plate, I'll take it. PayPal OK? mike harmuth On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 10:01 AM DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot > wrote: Hey membership, found one more brand new Tilton or Quartermaster 7.25? friction disc with the small (7/8? I think) Spitfire 10 spline input shaft hub. Brand new need it gone. They are like 120.00 from Tilton and Quartermaster. I can ship it to the 48 states for a total of 90.00 if you think that is fair. Let me know. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 10:34:58 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:34:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I ran this same question by FOT a month or two ago for my GT6. I wanted Delrin or Nylatron but these were impossible to find. Ted S suggested buying the Delrin and machining myself, but I didn't. In the end I ordered poly bushings from SuperPro USA. You can get an absolutely complete front suspension rebuild kit from the Roadster Factory which is has the black poly bushes that Scott describes. Best Brian On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 11:01 AM Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A > little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion > this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright > assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn > suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from > "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to > "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need > delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar > driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, > what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with > where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had > any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the > bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm > not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind > enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which > locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula > VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track > taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -- Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 11:11:38 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 17:11:38 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? Message-ID: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey trying to get ready for VIR in April and I am in need of a steel flywheel for a Spitfire 1296 engine. Tilton I think used to make them and then Quartermaster did too. Both of them have stopped. So hopefully someone has a new spare they don't need any more that I can buy. I use either a Quartermaster or Tilton 7.25" Clutch. Talk to me racers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 13:51:59 2020 From: jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com (Jonathan Wright) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:51:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <043FDB2E-1244-4633-AA4B-10C7851F2BF0@gmail.com> Orders the set from Scott Harper at team triumph, he said he thinks they are delrin but he isn?t sure. I?ll take Scott Janzens word that they work well enough for him should be better than what I have. Thanks for the help guys Jon Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:20 AM, Scott Janzen wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 14:28:03 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 13:28:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <24D36BB5-1E6E-4235-BEAA-692F06BF99AA@gmail.com> Hi Jonathan, A bit of a wild weekend for some of us at Willow Springs. My front bushings are solid. Comprised of a bronze Oilite bushing with an inner steel sleeve running on an AN bolt. The ends are capped with 3 steel backed, dimpled brass washers. I replaced the washers and the bolts in the rebuild. The washers were difficult to find and were sourced from England. I assume this was the hot set up in 1969/70 when the car was originally built. They may be described in Kas?s Comp Prep manual. I think I have some photos at home... Did you confirm GT6 or Spitfire bits up front? Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:01 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 12 06:35:23 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 12:35:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? In-Reply-To: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> References: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> Message-ID: <3ab9edadd7fb4192a2e824985d2b0c24@dieselperformanceparts.com> Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? Hey trying to get ready for VIR in April and I am in need of a steel flywheel for a Spitfire 1296 engine. Tilton I think used to make them and then Quartermaster did too. Both of them have stopped. So hopefully someone has a new spare they don't need any more that I can buy. I use either a Quartermaster or Tilton 7.25" Clutch. Talk to me racers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image007.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image007.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image008.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image008.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image009.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image009.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image010.jpg URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Mar 13 19:45:54 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 01:45:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Special tools... References: <1532120727.3093917.1584150354598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1532120727.3093917.1584150354598@mail.yahoo.com> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Friday, March 13, 2020,?FOT at aol.com??wrote: Amici... I guess all of us have special tools that we've had for a long time. ?Bench plates,?engine hoist, or whatever. ?For me it's a ball pein hammer. ?Seems like I've had it forever. ?I've replaced the head three times, and the handle eight times, but I've had that dam hammer forever. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Mar 14 06:18:37 2020 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 08:18:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races Message-ID: Lots of mechanical issues during the event. Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. mike h [image: P1015323.JPG] [image: P1015333.JPG] [image: P1015358.JPG] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015323.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2401158 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015333.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2295394 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015358.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2690096 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Mar 14 08:21:04 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 10:21:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Mike... At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten by equipment...)! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Lots of mechanical issues during the event. > Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. > > mike h > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From vfracing at aol.com Sat Mar 14 08:21:04 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 10:21:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Mike... At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten by equipment...)! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Lots of mechanical issues during the event. > Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. > > mike h > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sun Mar 15 04:38:33 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 06:38:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] NOS G-3 cam for sale, lots of other period go-fast bits as well Message-ID: <03f2798090488d3a82b34130de2b92ea@tr4racer.com> An old friend reached out to me a couple months ago, he raced a TR3 back in the day and messed around with Triumphs ever since. He got notice his landlord was selling the building he has been in for 50 years, so he got busy selling stuff. There is a bunch of TR3-4 go-fast bits looking for new race cars. A couple of prepped heads. One of Kastner's original G-3 cams, NOS, never in an engine. Several used ring and pinion sets, various ratios. Several Detroit Locker differentials, one TR3 rear axle set up with a Detroit Locker and a 4.55 R&P (stock axle shafts). An original finned aluminum sump. Etc... I'm planning on running the usual suspects this Spring, plus the Kastner Cup at M-O in June, happy to deliver any heavy bits if needed. Reply off list, just trying to help find new homes for these period goodies. Henry in CT From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sun Mar 15 04:43:58 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 06:43:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As long as we keep seeing John Hasty, our resident octogenarian, in the drivers seat, that's win for everybody! On 2020-03-14 10:21, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks, Mike... > At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met > other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten > by equipment...)! > Phil From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 15 05:41:57 2020 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 07:41:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Amen to that -----Original Message----- From: yellow04 via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2020 6:43 AM To: Phil Gott Cc: FoTTriumph Subject: Re: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races As long as we keep seeing John Hasty, our resident octogenarian, in the drivers seat, that's win for everybody! On 2020-03-14 10:21, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks, Mike... > At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met > other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten > by equipment...)! > Phil _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 16 15:29:20 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 21:29:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] VIR Message-ID: In view of the VA Gov's ban of all events of 100 or more yesterday, what is the status of the VIR event???? [cid:image001.png at 01D5FBB8.6C55BC50] John H. Hasty Attorney at Law Mullen Holland & Cooper P.A. 301 S. York St., P.O. Box 488 Gastonia, NC 28053 704.864.6751 (p) 704.861.8394 (f) mhc-law.com | jhasty at mhc-law.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 12907 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 11:54:49 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 17:54:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 4msonset at gmail.com Sat Mar 21 12:35:13 2020 From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 11:35:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My experience was spilling ink on my dad?s front seat back in the 90?s.... rather than fessing up... I cleaned the area with acetone, lightly sanded the area, mixed matching paint from aw simple acrylic art set, and airbrushed the front seat. It was as good as new and lasted for the decade the car remained with the family. That said... i was curious and did some googling. I found this company. I watched one of their videos. Looks like they know their business. ?Justin https://www.leathertouchupdye.com/ > On Mar 21, 2020, at 10:54 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > > Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sat Mar 21 12:38:05 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 18:38:05 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <84E3E211-74A2-4CFE-974B-E5BC6D3A0938@mhc-law.com> I understand Connely (sp like the leather used in Ferrari?s) is very good. Check it out on Google... Sent from my iPhone On Mar 21, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: ? Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 13:10:17 2020 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 19:10:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <668134238.226616.1584817817310@mail.yahoo.com> Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sat Mar 21 14:20:43 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 20:20:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <654191747.244169.1584822043211.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> GROIT'S GARAGE is a great source for anyone into 'detailing' cars. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, March 21, 2020,?Ken Suhre via Fot??wrote: Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 15:54:05 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 21:54:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> References: <654191747.244169.1584822043211.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2015771122.181862.1584827645223@mail.yahoo.com> I?ve been restoring a Momo wheel?s sundried leather with Neatsfoot oil from Tractor Supply. ? Normally used to condition leather saddles; it seems to be working very well!! Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 4:29 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: GROIT'S GARAGE is a great source for anyone into 'detailing' cars. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, March 21, 2020,?Ken Suhre via Fot??wrote: Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Sat Mar 21 16:42:48 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (hankgiffin) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 18:42:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jack, I used Leatherique on my 65 Morgan abt 2 years ago and Claussens kit on MY 38 MGVA a while ago (I think they went out of business but the same products as Leatherique).? Order extra conditioner.? It is amazing.? Just keep soaking the leather.? It softens cardboard-like leather.? You won't believe how nice it comes out.? ? ?I've tried a bunch of other leather treatments.? Most are made for modern cars, not 50 year old dried out seats.? ? ? ?Take care, HankSent via the Samsung Galaxy Note8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Jack Wheeler via Fot Date: 3/21/20 13:58 (GMT-05:00) To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks.Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 17:37:25 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 23:37:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Thanks References: <1856317645.323334.1584833845910.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1856317645.323334.1584833845910@mail.yahoo.com> The response to my request for leather repair has been overwhelming.? Now I have lots of leads to follow.? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjohns at woh.rr.com Sat Mar 21 17:39:56 2020 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 19:39:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 103, Issue 79. Leather conditioning. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <77A9F49C-AC2E-4876-98AD-FFD06EBB102D@woh.rr.com> Jack, neatfoot oil on the boot. It will leave the surface a bit oily temporarily if used on the seats but will dry up. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 21, 2020, at 2:00 PM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Fot mailing list submissions to > fot at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > fot-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > fot-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Leather Conditioning (Jack Wheeler) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 17:54:49 +0000 (UTC) > From: Jack Wheeler > To: FOT List > Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning > Message-ID: <307310677.207120.1584813289882 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. > Jack > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Fot Digest, Vol 103, Issue 79 > ************************************ From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Mar 22 07:12:56 2020 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 13:12:56 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months. Available almost everywhere. Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Mar 22 08:28:08 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 14:28:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <367746558.137674.1584887288144.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> Hooray for Petrolium Jelly! ?Who remembers the erotic WHITE ROSE radio commercials in the 1950s? "Use it in the morning...use it at night...use WHITE ROSE Petrolium?Jelly." Catchy tune, everyone was singing. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, March 22, 2020,?Henry A. Morrison via Fot??wrote: #yiv0773956919 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months.? Available almost everywhere.? Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning?Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Sun Mar 22 10:03:50 2020 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 16:03:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> References: <367746558.137674.1584887288144.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <370172092.184714.1584893030675@mail.yahoo.com> I was probably singing You Ain't Nuthin But a Houndog. On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 09:36:04 AM CDT, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Hooray for Petrolium Jelly! ?Who remembers the erotic WHITE ROSE radio commercials in the 1950s? "Use it in the morning...use it at night...use WHITE ROSE Petrolium?Jelly." Catchy tune, everyone was singing. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, March 22, 2020,?Henry A. Morrison via Fot??wrote: There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months.? Available almost everywhere.? Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning?Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Mar 22 13:05:52 2020 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 19:05:52 +0000 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update Message-ID: Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sun Mar 22 16:45:46 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 08:45:46 +1000 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans Terry On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: > Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a > Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This > update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered > a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are > changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of > anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what > is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our > friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends > making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard > decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the > event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully > things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and > comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. > > > > Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. > > > > Marty Sukey > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Sun Mar 22 21:33:14 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 20:33:14 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Message-ID: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! [image: IMG_8745.jpg] Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8745.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 390239 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sun Mar 22 21:58:11 2020 From: fmccjr at aol.com (fmccjr at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 23:58:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY (It?s about all I can do?) > On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans > > Terry > > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >> >> >> >> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >> >> >> >> Marty Sukey >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sun Mar 22 21:58:11 2020 From: fmccjr at aol.com (fmccjr at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 23:58:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY (It?s about all I can do?) > On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans > > Terry > > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >> >> >> >> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >> >> >> >> Marty Sukey >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sun Mar 22 21:59:18 2020 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 22:59:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <17FA7C7D-4ABE-436A-9DEA-93A30F0AEA90@gmail.com> ?? Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 22, 2020, at 10:58 PM, fmccjr--- via Fot wrote: > > ?Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! > > Rick McCurdy > Newburgh, NY > > (It?s about all I can do?) > >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >> >> thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans >> >> Terry >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >>> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >>> >>> >>> >>> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >>> >>> >>> >>> Marty Sukey >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 05:30:37 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 12:30:37 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" Aan: "van mulders marcel" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200323_121841.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2655945 bytes Desc: not available URL: From atr6racer at hotmail.com Mon Mar 23 08:14:34 2020 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:14:34 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR6/GT6 Quarter Master flywheel set up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To all TR6/GT6 racers out there, I have used a QM 7 pound steel flywheel and 7.25" clutch pictured in the attachment for the past 25 years with no failures. I have purchased 10 of these flywheels over that period, mostly due to minimum order of 5 flywheels per order as these are custom just for the Triumph six cylinder. This is for the short butt/late model crankshaft only. It has the ring gear actually cut into the flywheel itself, which is made from a high alloy steel. Clutch disc run around $60 each, and they can do any center spline you want. As for release bearings I use a GT6 throw out bearing on my Jerico gearbox due to the smaller diameter as it fits the fingers of the pressure plate perfectly. You can use the stock TR6 release bearing but the amount of force needed to disengage is really way to much for your leg! I also us the annular style release bearings and find that set up very easy to operate and maintain. I do not need 5 flywheels, so I'm looking for at least 4 other Racers out in FOT land that might want one of these flywheels. I already have one spot filled but the more the merrier. I have never had a failure with this set up and the only thing I do different is order the flywheel with double dowels, I keep the standard 4 bolt 7/16" bolts. All I do is replace the disc every 3 or 4 events, depending on how much paddock driving I have to do as that is tougher on the disc than actual racing, especially after coming off the track hot with a 1.70 first gear! No hurry, Quarter Master is now shutdown due to this pandemic, so this effort has plenty of time to get together. Last order I did the cost was around $550 for each flywheel. You can only use QM pressure plate with this flywheel as Tilton pressure plates are different. If you are interested of have any questions let me know. Sam Halkias -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0789.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2249286 bytes Desc: IMG_0789.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0788.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2378922 bytes Desc: IMG_0788.JPG URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Mon Mar 23 08:29:19 2020 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:29:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com>, <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot > wrote: This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel ________________________________ Van: "trbelgium1" > Aan: "van mulders marcel" > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. <20200323_121841.jpg> _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 23 09:30:49 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 09:30:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 09:45:43 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 16:45:43 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <1520342913.240493038.1584978343114.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Looking at the curve,.018 or a bit more, on the inlet valve, seems about right. On tildentechnologies.com .026" is recommended, but with that much valve lash, it seems that the valve is beginning to open when the cam follower is already at the beginning of the flank. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 15:29:19 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" < [ mailto:trbelgium1 at gmail.com | trbelgium1 at gmail.com ] > Aan: "van mulders marcel" < [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. BQ_BEGIN <20200323_121841.jpg> BQ_END BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 10:35:41 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 09:35:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. Apparently not... *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the > original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but > I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a > round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 > race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result > would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I > checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the > the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains > might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them > match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances > that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully > made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days > staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would > be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for > rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V > Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, > I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if > need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving > on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved > each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines > during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very > successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 11:32:41 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 18:32:41 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <07b1d65a-6149-d9a5-48df-65e5c733c172@pobox.com> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <1520342913.240493038.1584978343114.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <07b1d65a-6149-d9a5-48df-65e5c733c172@pobox.com> Message-ID: <1182688158.241016524.1584984761089.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Larry, It is your webpage that made me make this curve to find the right valve lash. Do you agree that 0.026" is too much? Marcel Van: "Larry Young" Aan: "van mulders marcel" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 18:06:13 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Marcel, The 0.026 on my website is the value that is usually recommended by BFE. I have a webpage that describes how it "should" be determined - [ http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tip_Lash.html | http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tip_Lash.html ] . This may give a smaller number than what is recommended. The procedure will avoid the "tuning fork" problem we discussed earlier. - Larry On 3/23/2020 10:45 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot wrote: Looking at the curve,.018 or a bit more, on the inlet valve, seems about right. On tildentechnologies.com .026" is recommended, but with that much valve lash, it seems that the valve is beginning to open when the cam follower is already at the beginning of the flank. Marcel Van: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Aan: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 15:29:19 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" < [ mailto:trbelgium1 at gmail.com | trbelgium1 at gmail.com ] > Aan: "van mulders marcel" < [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. BQ_BEGIN <20200323_121841.jpg> BQ_END BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com ] BQ_END -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 13:21:24 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:21:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. Bob Kramer On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, > like resizing rods. > > Apparently not... > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > > > On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Mar 23 14:18:14 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:18:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <158571754.559110.1584994694343@mail.yahoo.com> The block & caps are pretty much married for life.To replace missing caps you'll need a pile of caps from which to choose & a lot of luck for a close match, & then a machine shop that can do a good line-bore.Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot To: Brad Eells Cc: FOT Sent: Mon, Mar 23, 2020 11:35 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Mar 23 16:38:02 2020 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 17:38:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating indeed. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ? > I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. > > Bob Kramer > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >> Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. >> >> Apparently not... >> >> >> Brad Eells >> Chino CA >> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >> >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Mon Mar 23 18:01:07 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:01:07 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the > original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but > I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a > round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 > race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result > would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I > checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the > the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains > might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them > match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances > that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully > made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days > staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would > be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for > rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V > Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, > I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if > need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving > on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved > each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines > during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very > successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 23 18:01:34 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BC57E78-469D-4B49-BB28-B6DA7AFE9DD4@aol.com> Might be best to fund another block. There are plenty of them around. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 23 18:01:34 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BC57E78-469D-4B49-BB28-B6DA7AFE9DD4@aol.com> Might be best to fund another block. There are plenty of them around. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 23 19:20:11 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 21:20:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: > > ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating indeed. > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. >>> >>> Apparently not... >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: >>>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>>> >>>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>>> >>>> Solutions or recommendations? >>>> >>>> Thanks >>>> Bud >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Amici, >>>>> >>>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>>> >>>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>>> >>>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>>> >>>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>>> >>>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>>> >>>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>>> >>>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Cheers, >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Brad Eells >>>>> Chino CA >>>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> Bud Rolofson >>>> >>>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>>> >>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 20:35:57 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 21:35:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 20:46:24 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 19:46:24 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Habit from a long long time ago error made me mark each main cap in my engines with a center punch and the side of the block area with a simular mark so that reassembly would always be correct & easy. This came from my work in the very early 50's and unknown engines for all over the world where you'd better have a clue on how to put that devil back together. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 7:36 PM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same > side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 > thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the > right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the > tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. > this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will > clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the > faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is > align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move > the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the > other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the > case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, > this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring > the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so > subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone > (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing > shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot > wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Tue Mar 24 05:27:14 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:27:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 05:47:41 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:47:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >>> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 05:47:41 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:47:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >>> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com Tue Mar 24 06:26:15 2020 From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 08:26:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: <002501d601d7$6a293450$3e7b9cf0$@rr.com> Precision Automotive in Cortland NY has done cam bearings for 6 cylinder TRs for me. It sounds like it's a PITA for them but I've had them do two for me. Both were perfect. Russ Spitfire #49 -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of yellow04 via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 7:27 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Line Boring Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Tue Mar 24 06:26:40 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:26:40 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone BQ_BEGIN On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: BQ_END BQ_BEGIN firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud BQ_BEGIN On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad Eells Chino CA #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net ] BQ_END Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage ] : [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 06:29:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 12:29:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <262861113.1165263.1585052941420@mail.yahoo.com> I forgot to mention, that in terms of which bearing caps go with which engine, the factory stamped each block and each cap with an alphanumeric code, like "B24". ?Each block is stamped on the flange where the oil pan bolts, usually near the rear main. ?Each cap is stamped on a flat surface, sometimes on the face where the washer sits under the bolt head. ?If you are buying a used, disassembled block it is a good idea to make sure all the alphanumeric codes are the same. ?I got burned by this once..... Phil -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott To: Bob Kramer Cc: Enquiries Road & Track ; FOT Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 7:47 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: ? Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: ?firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 06:32:03 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 12:32:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Marcel; Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". ?Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. ?Would like to know if there is a better solution. Phil -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: Phil Gott Cc: fot Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it?The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too.Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet?Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 06:52:37 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:52:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. Bob Kramer On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the > caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it > should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark > each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine > in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both > due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be > sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal > may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the > centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal > where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will > compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one > of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of > the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go > slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same > side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 > thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the > right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the > tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. > this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will > clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the > faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is > align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move > the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the > other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the > case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, > this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring > the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so > subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone > (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing > shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot > wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 07:12:10 2020 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 08:12:10 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Bob, Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? ?Keith Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring machine yet. ?His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. Duncan On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , wrote: > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored.? I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine.? Unfortunately the outsourced machine?shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > > > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > > > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > > > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > > > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > > > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals.? Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > > > > > > > > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > > > > > > > > > if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > > > > > > > > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > > > > > > > > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > > > > > > > > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > > > > > > > > > if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > > > > > > > > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > > > > > > > > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact > > > > > > > > > > ?Terry > > > > > Australia > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > > > > > > > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Solutions or recommendations? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > Bud > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Amici, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Brad Eells > > > > > > > > Chino CA > > > > > > > > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > > > > > > > > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > > > > > > > > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bud Rolofson > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) > > > > > > > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 > > > > > > > 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) > > > > > > > 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle > > > > > > > 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Mar 24 07:32:18 2020 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:32:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: <06b401d601e0$a42ca660$ec85f320$@comcast.net> There are a few different shops in Colorado that do line bores. The Block Shop is one and HiPro Engines is the other. I built a GT6 motor about 5 years ago and British Sports Werks in Estes Park got the cam bearings drilled for me. http://britishsportswerks.com/ Jim G -----Original Message----- From: Fot On Behalf Of yellow04 via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 5:27 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Line Boring Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 08:11:39 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 09:11:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: I think it was Waco Machine. Bob Kramer On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > Bob, > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? Keith > Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike > used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring > machine yet. His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last > there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > Duncan > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , > wrote: > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of > "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to > have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin > and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. > Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for > the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > >> Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the >> caps and saddles are always on the same side. >> In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it >> should be really hard to mix them up. >> Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to >> mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. >> I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT >> machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, >> both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: >> 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to >> be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. >> 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal >> may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the >> centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal >> where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will >> compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one >> of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of >> the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go >> slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. >> Phil Gott >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot >> wrote: >> >> ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same >> side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 >> thing? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the >> right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the >> tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. >> this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will >> clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the >> faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is >> align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly >> move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on >> the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the >> case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, >> this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring >> the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so >> subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone >> (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing >> shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >>> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >>> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >>> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >>> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >>> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >>> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >>> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >>> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >>> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >>> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >>> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >>> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >>> be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >>> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >>> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. >>> Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination >>> if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >>> on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >>> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >>> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >>> successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> *Brad Eells* >>> *Chino CA* >>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 08:13:21 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 09:13:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: Duncan If he has one maybe we can talk him out of his line boring machine and set it up with Dennis at Precision? On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > Bob, > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? Keith > Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike > used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring > machine yet. His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last > there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > Duncan > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , > wrote: > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of > "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to > have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin > and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. > Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for > the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > >> Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the >> caps and saddles are always on the same side. >> In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it >> should be really hard to mix them up. >> Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to >> mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. >> I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT >> machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, >> both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: >> 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to >> be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. >> 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal >> may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the >> centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal >> where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will >> compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one >> of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of >> the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go >> slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. >> Phil Gott >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot >> wrote: >> >> ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same >> side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 >> thing? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the >> right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the >> tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. >> this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will >> clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the >> faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is >> align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly >> move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on >> the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the >> case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, >> this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring >> the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so >> subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone >> (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing >> shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >>> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >>> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >>> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >>> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >>> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >>> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >>> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >>> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >>> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >>> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >>> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >>> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >>> be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >>> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >>> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. >>> Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination >>> if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >>> on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >>> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >>> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >>> successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> *Brad Eells* >>> *Chino CA* >>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Mar 24 08:23:10 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 14:23:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... References: <1197088337.795140.1585059790307.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1197088337.795140.1585059790307@mail.yahoo.com> Many times a line-hone will get things back in spec, boring shouldn't move the crank center more than a few thou, unless as the OP, non-matching caps are being fitted, or the engine has been through some major trauma and may have other issues.The cap is faced and the majority of material is removed from it until the block has just a slight shadow left right at the parting faces. Yes the register for the seal housing in the block will then be oval, hand filing or, depending on equipment available, facing a little off one half of the seal housing where it fits in the block will get it back on center.Yeah excessive line-boring will add slack to the chain & change the deck height, I've also seen engine mains & rods that were bored so much that there wasn't enough notch left for the bearing tang to fit, not recommended... Glen -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott via Fot To: Bob Kramer Cc: FOT Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 7:48 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: ? Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: ?firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barry at penybryn.ca Tue Mar 24 10:57:34 2020 From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:57:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> References: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. Barry. - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. - Keep safe everyone. - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Hi Marcel; Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. Phil -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: Phil Gott Cc: fot Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? Marcel _____ Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad Eells Chino CA #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! Image removed by sender. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 440 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 11:11:51 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:11:51 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: To the best of my knowledge the the 6 cylinder blocks were bored for a larger camshaft bearing size and this diameter is what is needed to install the Spitfire 1296 cc cam bearings. In the many many 6 cylinder engines I built, I never once had to have anything line bored for installing cam bearings, but the camshafts were not useable for reginding as the bearings surfaces were too large. My very earliest little books in the 60's detailed how to install the cam bearingsI normally used for the Spitfire 1296 engines. No machining was necessary for this procedure. i discovered this in my very first work on the TR 250 engine in 1966 which was supplied without cam bearings and the larger camshaft surfaces. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 4:27 AM yellow04 via Fot wrote: > Very frustrating indeed! > > I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder > block for cam bearings in his shop. > > On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot > >> wrote: > > > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating > >> indeed. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:49:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:49:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> References: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Message-ID: Thank you Barry! Ken, what have you developed for this? Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 24, 2020, at 12:57 PM, Barry Munson wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. > > Barry. > - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. > - Keep safe everyone. > - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM > To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Hi Marcel; > > Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. > > However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: van.mulders.marcel > To: Phil Gott > Cc: fot > Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? > The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. > Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? > Marcel > > Van: "fot" > Aan: "Bob Kramer" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:49:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:49:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> References: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Message-ID: Thank you Barry! Ken, what have you developed for this? Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 24, 2020, at 12:57 PM, Barry Munson wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. > > Barry. > - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. > - Keep safe everyone. > - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM > To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Hi Marcel; > > Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. > > However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: van.mulders.marcel > To: Phil Gott > Cc: fot > Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? > The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. > Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? > Marcel > > Van: "fot" > Aan: "Bob Kramer" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 14:01:28 2020 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 15:01:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: Maybe? he lives near my son so next time I run into him I?ll ask about line boring and other machining, and whether he?s interested in selling equipment. ?I?m thinking he not mind having the cash ? but, incidentally, what?s the word on Dennis? future plans? Duncan On Mar 24, 2020, 9:11 AM -0500, Bob Kramer , wrote: > Duncan > > If he has one maybe we can talk him out of his line boring machine and set it up with Dennis at Precision? > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > > > Bob, > > > > > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX?? Keith Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring machine yet.? His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > > > > > Duncan > > > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , wrote: > > > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored.? I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine.? Unfortunately the outsourced machine?shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. > > > > > > > > Bob Kramer > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > > > > > > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > > > > > > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > > > > > > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > > > > > > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > > > > > > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals.? Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > > > > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ?Terry > > > > > > > > Australia > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > > > > > > > > > > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Solutions or recommendations? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > Bud > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Amici, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Brad Eells > > > > > > > > > > > Chino CA > > > > > > > > > > > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > > > > > > > > > > > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > > > > > > > > > > > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bud Rolofson > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) > > > > > > > > > > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 > > > > > > > > > > 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) > > > > > > > > > > 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle > > > > > > > > > > 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kknight at klaenv.com Fri Mar 27 08:35:26 2020 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 07:35:26 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing Message-ID: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E Good day to the FOT family. In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few minutes! Stay safe, Ken -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Mar 27 12:08:39 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 18:08:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> Message-ID: <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> AM i STILL ON fot? ?.don,t seem to get the day to day emails from everyone ?....anyway,I have some interesting things that some may be interested in.....Rick? kristoff In a message dated 3/27/2020 10:35:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E Good day to the FOT family.? In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu.? While we are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic.? The story, the characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane.? Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best viewing on YouTube! ??Many of us have old British cars, think of this as the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water!? So follow along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few minutes! Stay safe, Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Fri Mar 27 14:19:39 2020 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 15:19:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: O.K. Rick. I'll bite.. What do you have of interest?? On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 1:08 PM Rick Kristoff via Fot wrote: > AM i STILL ON fot ?.don,t seem to get the day to day emails from everyone > ?....anyway,I have some interesting things that some may be interested > in.....Rick kristoff > > In a message dated 3/27/2020 10:35:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, > fot at autox.team.net writes: > > https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E > > Good day to the FOT family. > > In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is > a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we > are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the > full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the > characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic > (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. > > Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best > viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as > the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow > along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few > minutes! > > Stay safe, Ken > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mckearn2 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Mar 28 08:58:49 2020 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 10:58:49 -0400 Subject: [Fot] WE ARE OPEN Message-ID: <1e10286a-8ab1-e500-b684-02e7e42c0d8f@bright.net> ?? ??? ??? ??? ??? ? We're open and shipping!? There's no better time to get started on that project vehicle! We are here to take your calls and help you get the parts you need. NEW - USED - REBUILT - PERFORMANCE - NOS ??? Servicing your brakes? Why not add our Steelbraid brake hose? How about new wheel bearing kits. Time to replace or upgrade suspension bushings, try our poly bushings! Keep the family and yourself well. Then improve your car's "health". Get ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Stay well and healthy. Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 103 E. Main St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Mar 28 12:38:29 2020 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:38:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> Message-ID: Thanks Ken, This is reminding me why I sold my last boat and bought a race car. mike h On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 10:35 AM Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: > https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E > > Good day to the FOT family. > > In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is > a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we > are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the > full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the > characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic > (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. > > Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best > viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as > the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow > along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few > minutes! > > Stay safe, Ken > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfetta95 at optonline.net Sat Mar 28 15:14:37 2020 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Redmond) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 17:14:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races > > Friends! > > Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. > > Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! > > > Any ideas or suggestions? > > Todd > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Sat Mar 28 15:31:26 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 21:31:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <1307871751.281870.1585431086804@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Todd, My first question would be, was the engine fully warmed up when you set the idle at 1100? (Like HOT)? ?I know once my race engine gets warm the idle is much higher; make sure to set idle with a hot engine... ?but maybe you already did that! Let us know! Thanks,Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, March 28, 2020, 5:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again. Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends! Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions? Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Sat Mar 28 15:33:35 2020 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:33:35 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <4E6FCB06-3E7D-417D-9801-A86819AF5E9B@artwithcars.com> On my racing TR3, I have a fairly stout secondary carb linkage return spring. It ensures that the carbs always get pulled back to zero ~Steve > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:14 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sun Mar 29 05:24:59 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 11:24:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow.Tighten the clamp and check it again.If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak.HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again.Sorry for the double post if it comes thru.Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends!Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ.Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions?Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ppopplewell at gmail.com Sun Mar 29 06:27:55 2020 From: ppopplewell at gmail.com (Peter Popplewell) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:27:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I had a very similar problem to this on my TR6 after switching carbs from Zenith to a pair of Hitachi-SUs off a Datsun 240z. I swore I had more than enough ?return spring? on the throttle linkage, would work perfectly with throttle blips in the garage with no load, but on the street it would behave exactly as you?re describing. I switched to much heavier return springs and problem went away. On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:25 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: > Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are > returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow. > Tighten the clamp and check it again. > If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could > have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak. > HTH > Glen > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Redmond via Fot > To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races > > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > Todd > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > Friends! > Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. > Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i > pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled > off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added > a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was > sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back > up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set > to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! > > Any ideas or suggestions? > Todd > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ppopplewell at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:36:36 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 15:36:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <353606809.416062.1585496196701@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - Not for nothing, but sometimes we fix symptoms but the original problem is still there. I would verify that the throttle shafts are not worn and that the butterflies close completely. As most of you probably know, with no load on an engine, it doesn't take much more than a crack of the throttle to see some wicked pissah (*) RPM's! I did an initial startup on a TR6 race motor with a Weber DCOE 40 that was stock on the idle screw - I saw 7000 on the tach as I shut off the ignition. It went to those RPMs in less than a second. Speaking of which - the idle stops on the stock DCOE40's SUCK. The metal is too thin for the screw contact patch and they wedge in there... makes syncing the carbs a real beyatch. But it also why I cringe or resort to profanity if an over zealous tech inspector tries snapping the throttles. But I got to build that motor... TWICE. Regards,Bob Lang(*) W-P is a regional expression for superlative measure. On Sunday, March 29, 2020, 8:40:00 AM EDT, Peter Popplewell via Fot wrote: I had a very similar problem to this on my TR6 after switching carbs from Zenith to a pair of Hitachi-SUs off a Datsun 240z.? I swore I had more than enough ?return spring? on the throttle linkage, would work perfectly with throttle blips in the garage with no load, but on the street it would behave exactly as you?re describing.? I switched to much heavier return springs and problem went away. On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:25 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow.Tighten the clamp and check it again.If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak.HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again.Sorry for the double post if it comes thru.Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends!Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ.Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions?Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ppopplewell at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:59:15 2020 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:59:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: Todd Perhaps the key bit of info here is the fact that this occurred when you stepped on the clutch! Maybe check your motor/trans mounts. No racin here Stuck in the scatter here in NorCal Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > ? > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:59:15 2020 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:59:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: Todd Perhaps the key bit of info here is the fact that this occurred when you stepped on the clutch! Maybe check your motor/trans mounts. No racin here Stuck in the scatter here in NorCal Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > ? > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Sun Mar 29 13:45:51 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 19:45:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] old triumph books and manuals References: <378521062.685123.1585511151222.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <378521062.685123.1585511151222@mail.yahoo.com> Have almost 30 yrs of accumulated Spitfire and other models ..Comp. preps , workshop from Coventry HQ,Dealer parts manual for mk III s ,glovebox manuals, etc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Mon Mar 30 08:53:05 2020 From: don at dcphotos.com (Don Couch) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 09:53:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Amici, I?d like to nominate John Vincent. He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. Anyway, can I get a second? Don J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com Sent from my iPhone From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 09:16:27 2020 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 11:16:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: Seconded On Mon, Mar 30, 2020, 10:53 AM Don Couch via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > I?d like to nominate John Vincent. > He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it > off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. > They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and > got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. > Anyway, can I get a second? > Don > > J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbm.spitfire at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Mar 30 09:24:56 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 09:24:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 30 09:39:32 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 15:39:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America.? Road America is big, and it was not a problem.? In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions.? For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST).? I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know).? The race was in the rain.? I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race.? I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap.? But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. ? Not sure, but 1990, I think. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:06:09 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:06:09 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > > Amici... > > They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. > > Not sure, but 1990, I think. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot > To: fot > Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination > > Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 > people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look > like > > mjb. > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:27:02 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:27:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault? I think it was al combination of all of the above. As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. "Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > > 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. > > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> >> Amici... >> >> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >> >> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >> >> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >> like >> >> mjb. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 10:33:39 2020 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 11:33:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It was a perfect storm of multiple factors, methinks. With a trigger. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > ? > 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. > > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> >> Amici... >> >> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >> >> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >> >> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >> like >> >> mjb. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:34:07 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:34:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> Message-ID: There's a 14.5 minute video compilation of in car videos also. Read the comments. Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > > So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault? > I think it was al combination of all of the above. > As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. "Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: >> >> 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. >> >> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY >> >> Sent from my Commodore 64 >> >>> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici... >>> >>> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >>> >>> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >>> >>> Bill Dentinger >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >>> To: fot >>> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >>> >>> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >>> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >>> like >>> >>> mjb. >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 30 11:05:59 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 17:05:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1614140389.1193895.1585587959709@mail.yahoo.com> A lot of carnage that day. Carl Jensen (RIP, RA Competition Guru at the time) always said the issue was these big, powerful V8s laying back and creating distance between themselves and the car in front of them.? Many of the cars up front were still tight together, and when the track went green these guys in the back came storming up the hill, sometimes four wide. After that Jensen insisted the entire grid maintain a 'car's length' between you and the guy in front of you.? If you didn't, the group did not get a green flag. I can't remember for sure, but I think there was no passing until you went under the bridge as well. Bill Dentinger PS? Later Carl Jensen re-thought the rule and told Race Groups that they would ALWAYS get a green flag, regardless of how orderly they were or weren't.? I guess they decided? that was safer. -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson To: Bill Dentinger Cc: mark ; fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 9:34 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination There's ?a 14.5 minute video compilation of in car videos also. Read the comments. Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault??I think it was al combination of all of the above.As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. ?"Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici... They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America.? Road America is big, and it was not a problem.? In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions.? For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST).? I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know).? The race was in the rain.? I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race.? I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap.? But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. ? Not sure, but 1990, I think. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 13:57:31 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 12:57:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... Message-ID: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> Amici, Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... Cheers! -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8793.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 400041 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone From slaterptrs at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 14:49:18 2020 From: slaterptrs at gmail.com (Tim Slater) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 16:49:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... In-Reply-To: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> References: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> Message-ID: Brad, Adding washers is an old trick to adjust the oil pressure relief. Should see 75 -80 lbs or so when cold and 60-65 running hot at high RPM. Tim Slater. Phone: 561-820-0021 On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 4:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. > > 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. > > Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different > thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... > > Cheers! > > > > Brad Eells > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/slaterptrs at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Mar 30 17:20:15 2020 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 18:20:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: That was Bill Collin?s old car. Very good driver. Wish he was back in track with us. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:53 AM, Don Couch via Fot wrote: > > ? > Amici, > I?d like to nominate John Vincent. > He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. > They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. > Anyway, can I get a second? > Don > > J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 30 19:20:48 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 21:20:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 Message-ID: has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on these engines - are Spitfires the same too? In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 30 19:25:40 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 01:25:40 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... In-Reply-To: References: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com>, Message-ID: We use 60 @ cold idle & 80 hot 6000 rpm Sent from my iPhone On Mar 30, 2020, at 4:49 PM, Tim Slater via Fot wrote: ? Brad, Adding washers is an old trick to adjust the oil pressure relief. Should see 75 -80 lbs or so when cold and 60-65 running hot at high RPM. Tim Slater. Phone: 561-820-0021 On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 4:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: Amici, Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... Cheers! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/slaterptrs at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Mon Mar 30 21:36:28 2020 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 23:36:28 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <27877e28-2cba-ed46-7011-22a0ca745922@verizon.net> Hi??? Scott. I'm pretty sure Richard Good has titanium retainers. Use the same ones on both intake and exhaust valves; eliminates the two piece retainer (collar) on the exhaust valves. Not sure about Spits. Cheers Bill On 3/30/2020 9:20 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on > these engines - are Spitfires the same too? > In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Mon Mar 30 23:31:21 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (Geoff Byrne) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 16:31:21 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83C61BFD-F9DB-48BC-95B0-CDF1151A120F@optusnet.com.au> Richard Good has titanium caps I?ve been using on a number of engines for over ten years never had a problem in all those years if racing Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone > On 31 Mar 2020, at 12:21 pm, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on these engines - are Spitfires the same too? > In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au > > From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Mar 31 14:28:56 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 16:28:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup shirts Message-ID: Amici, While we're all doing laps around the ceiling being in self-isolation, what better time to order shirts for the Cup event. Remember that no money will change hands until the shirts are actually made. Currently we have 59 shirts ordered, which is well below the threshold needed. If the event happens, the shirts will be made, but if it is cancelled, no money changes hands - nothing happens. The absolute deadline for ordering is 30 JUN, but please don't wait. To paraphrase a political joke on Chicago, order early and order often :-) So, let's be super-optimistic and order some shirts! The process is simple: go to order shirts here and fill in your info. Very simple, very easy. Lots of businesses are currently offering free, no contact delivery. Ted is offering free delivery to the track but will certainly shake your hand or clap you on the back - that's the comradery we need! Stay well everyone jim -- W4BEA The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily entertained is totally the way to go! ;-) J. Stoll -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Mar 31 15:29:35 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 17:29:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Kastner Cup shirts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ack. I guess this virus isolation business has rotted my brain. The absolute deadline for shirt orders is 30 APR, *NOT* 30 JUN. (thanks Ted and Jerry). jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From macdonaldp at rogers.com Sun Mar 1 14:45:52 2020 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 16:45:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$.ref@rogers.com> Message-ID: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Hi I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. Can I get a second? Thanks Paul MacDonald -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 15:23:07 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 14:23:07 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise In-Reply-To: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Message-ID: Second here! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 1, 2020, at 1:46 PM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi > > I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. > > Can I get a second? > > Thanks > Paul MacDonald > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Sun Mar 1 16:07:48 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:07:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise In-Reply-To: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$.ref@rogers.com> <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Message-ID: <1560885502.4267053.1583104068451@mail.yahoo.com> Second!? I spoke with him (by email) regarding his Group 44 Spitfire for sale.? Wish I had the money!-- Jay De Pol -----Original Message----- From: Paul MacDonald via Fot To: Fot Cc: classicbrit Sent: Sun, Mar 1, 2020 4:51 pm Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise <!-- #yiv5484185488 _filtered {} #yiv5484185488 #yiv5484185488 p.yiv5484185488MsoNormal, #yiv5484185488 li.yiv5484185488MsoNormal, #yiv5484185488 div.yiv5484185488MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} #yiv5484185488 a:link, #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5484185488 a:visited, #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Times New Roman", "serif";color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #yiv5484185488 .yiv5484185488MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} _filtered {} #yiv5484185488 div.yiv5484185488WordSection1 {} -->Hi ?I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. ?Can I get a second? ?ThanksPaul MacDonald_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 1 16:29:44 2020 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:29:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 1 16:53:05 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:53:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1054775077.4298213.1583106785036@mail.yahoo.com> My data is a little dated, but when I was racing my TR-4 I always used the steel competition head gasket, which was supplied by the factory as part of the decompression kit for cars destined for Europe, which did not have the required octane in their fuel.? I used a regional product called "Gaska-Cinch", which was recommended by an old racer/friend from the St, Louis area.? I started using it in about 1980, and for the next 17 years, never had a failure. More recently, I rebuilt the engine in my TR-3 (street car). and used a head gasket by Cometic.? They normally make head gaskets for? stock cars and drag racers, so I? was surprised that they would make one for a TR-3/4.? They might also make one for a TR-6.? It is a steel, multi-layer gasket, but it has worked fine.? Going on about 5 years now on a 10.5"1 compression TR-3/4 engine. For what it's worth, that's my experience. Jack On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:12 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sun Mar 1 19:13:57 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:13:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> Hi, Brian, My GT6 runs about 11.5:1 and I have always run a Payen head gasket - some kind of black composite sandwiched around steel or aluminum, with aluminum(?) fire rings. I?ve got a fairly high performance engine - 175 HP +/-. Standard Moss issue. Never had an issue in ten years. For the leak issue you have, I?ve found putting Permatex black around the perimeter of the pushrod area on the block and head (both sides of the gasket) solves the problem. There?s not as much clamping force over there, and mine always used to leak too. No more! Scott Janzen ?68 GT6 On Mar 1, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 19:31:57 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:31:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> Message-ID: Same gasket here, always payen with fire ring, with my motor a little milder (understatement) than Scott's? On Sun, Mar 1, 2020, 9:14 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Hi, Brian, > My GT6 runs about 11.5:1 and I have always run a Payen head gasket - some > kind of black composite sandwiched around steel or aluminum, with > aluminum(?) fire rings. I?ve got a fairly high performance engine - 175 HP > +/-. > Standard Moss issue. Never had an issue in ten years. > For the leak issue you have, I?ve found putting Permatex black around the > perimeter of the pushrod area on the block and head (both sides of the > gasket) solves the problem. There?s not as much clamping force over there, > and mine always used to leak too. No more! > > Scott Janzen > ?68 GT6 > > On Mar 1, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot > wrote: > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak > at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before > this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck > height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Sun Mar 1 21:50:33 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:50:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column Message-ID: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> FOTs - does anyone have an unneeded adjustable TR3 steering column or know where I might find one? It helps my legroom. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Sun Mar 1 23:31:58 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (Geoff Byrne) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 17:31:58 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone > On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > ? Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 2 00:29:23 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 08:29:23 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian [ https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS | Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Mar 2 01:12:08 2020 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 09:12:08 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel _____ Van: "fot" > Aan: "Brian Dennis" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot > wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 2 04:03:52 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 06:03:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Eagle Gate bell housing References: <82C973C7-B579-49CD-870C-80A9A2B59E97.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <82C973C7-B579-49CD-870C-80A9A2B59E97@aol.com> Does anyone have for sale an Eagle Gate bell housing for the TR2-6 / Toyota W-58 transmission conversion? I have the HVDA conversion and the the Quartermaster concentric slave cylinder failed me twice at Sebring last weekend, and I want too use the stock slave and system with the Eagle Gate. If no Eagle Gate bell housing, any other ideas for a throwout bearing actuator? Phil Gott 508 414 0256 Sent from my iPhone From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 2 07:22:06 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 15:22:06 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <913767026.145513868.1583158926141.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Chris, I don't think so much about sex, but even then I'm right : what do you do with the "69" stand?! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 09:12:08 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel Van: "fot" < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > Aan: "Brian Dennis" < [ mailto:britracer89 at yahoo.com | britracer89 at yahoo.com ] > Cc: "fot" < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian [ https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS | Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 07:26:56 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 14:26:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv3671954296 #yiv3671954296 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3671954296 #yiv3671954296 p.yiv3671954296MsoNormal, #yiv3671954296 li.yiv3671954296MsoNormal, #yiv3671954296 div.yiv3671954296MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3671954296 a:link, #yiv3671954296 span.yiv3671954296MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3671954296 span.yiv3671954296E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3671954296 .yiv3671954296MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3671954296 div.yiv3671954296WordSection1 {}#yiv3671954296 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel ? Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.? Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks,? Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Mar 2 08:02:04 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 15:02:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> I knew it, Bill D would be the first to post a witty comeback!Good job Bill...Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 9:27 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv3192237190 -- filtered {} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 p.yiv3192237190MsoNormal, #yiv3192237190 li.yiv3192237190MsoNormal, #yiv3192237190 div.yiv3192237190MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv3192237190 a:link, #yiv3192237190 span.yiv3192237190MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3192237190 span.yiv3192237190E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv3192237190 .yiv3192237190MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 div.yiv3192237190WordSection1 {} #yiv3192237190 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ?CheersChris ? ?Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?Geoff,Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise!Marcel ?Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the bestGeoff ByrneTR6 racer down underSent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 09:03:30 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 16:03:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1737311415.3032198.1583165010850@mail.yahoo.com> Glen... I'm old, but I'm not dead... Bill -----Original Message----- From: fubog1 To: billdentin ; fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 7:02 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I knew it, Bill D would be the first to post a witty comeback!Good job Bill...Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 9:27 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv9642021526 -- filtered {}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 p.yiv9642021526MsoNormal, #yiv9642021526 li.yiv9642021526MsoNormal, #yiv9642021526 div.yiv9642021526MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9642021526 a:link, #yiv9642021526 span.yiv9642021526MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9642021526 span.yiv9642021526E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9642021526 .yiv9642021526MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 div.yiv9642021526WordSection1 {}#yiv9642021526 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ?CheersChris ? ?Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?Geoff,Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise!Marcel ?Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the bestGeoff ByrneTR6 racer down underSent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 2 15:03:34 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 22:03:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. ;-) By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". c ya,Bob Lang On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 2 16:57:26 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 18:57:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear main seal leaks have stopped. The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). > > I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. > > ;-) > > By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. > > There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". > > c ya, > Bob Lang > > On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Mon Mar 2 21:03:51 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 20:03:51 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Lay some small diameter copper wire around the area you want to seal and th deal is over. I used Gasket Cinch to hold the wire in place on the head. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 3:57 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear > main seal leaks have stopped. > The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot > wrote: > > ? > Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of > pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get > less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). > > I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. > > ;-) > > By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the > fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts > oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting > pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. > > There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve > pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank > case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". > > c ya, > Bob Lang > > On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak > at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before > this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck > height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 21:21:20 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 04:21:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <1573023583.3445807.1583209280713.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1573023583.3445807.1583209280713@mail.yahoo.com> I am almost sure that Ken Gillanders?used to sell us gaskets?that had a grove pressed?in them for that copper wire. ?It worked slick.? Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Kas Kastner via Fot??wrote: Lay some small diameter?copper wire around the?area you want to seal and th deal is over. I used Gasket Cinch to hold the wire in place on the?head. Never be beaten by equipment. On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 3:57 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear main seal leaks have stopped.The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: ? Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. ;-) By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". c ya,Bob Lang On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Tue Mar 3 01:03:31 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (geoff byrne) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 19:03:31 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Some of us Aussies rather like the fact we are ?down under? has a certain charm but in Aus if you are out passed the black stump you really are in hillbilly territory Regards Geoff From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be [mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be] Sent: Monday, March 2, 2020 6:29 PM To: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel _____ Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Wed Mar 4 03:59:04 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 20:59:04 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. i hope this might assist someone Terry (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Wed Mar 4 06:23:45 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:23:45 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. Scott On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. i hope this might assist someone Terry (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 06:44:00 2020 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (James Palmer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:44:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F7168E5-E9AE-47A2-BCD9-0CE13EDA046A@yahoo.com> I think I found it on eBay, as long as it is WURTH 250, not WURT 250? I ordered a tube just in case, it was less than $15 delivered to the US from the UK. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 4, 2020, at 8:25 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 06:44:00 2020 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (James Palmer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:44:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F7168E5-E9AE-47A2-BCD9-0CE13EDA046A@yahoo.com> I think I found it on eBay, as long as it is WURTH 250, not WURT 250? I ordered a tube just in case, it was less than $15 delivered to the US from the UK. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 4, 2020, at 8:25 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 06:47:14 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 07:47:14 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by route jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some product for me. Bob Kramer On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but > not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have > tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., > with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly > there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we > do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head > does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the > pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst > and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big > issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest > improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race > 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on > the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes > before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it > and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever > "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a > copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray > or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head > gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but > eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 > RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if > applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed > with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has > a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes > of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > > >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 13:13:53 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 15:13:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: When I was looking I found Worth America and it pulled up red permatex I was going to start over tonight On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 8:46 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by route > jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some > product for me. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot > wrote: > >> interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but >> not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. >> >> Scott >> >> On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have >> tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., >> with none of them totally fixing it >> >> unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly >> there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we >> do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head >> does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the >> pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst >> and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big >> issue to be solved as others have discussed >> >> long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest >> improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race >> 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! >> >> my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on >> the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes >> before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it >> and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever >> "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a >> copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray >> or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head >> gasket, but some copper ones may benefit >> >> we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but >> eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 >> RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if >> applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed >> with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has >> a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes >> of it every week, so that was not an issue. >> >> i hope this might assist someone >> >> Terry >> (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) >> >> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jsukey at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 13:23:50 2020 From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 15:23:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: Do any of you guys have experience with the Lucas HD head gaskets that have the silicone bead around the edges? Jason Sukey On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 3:14 PM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > When I was looking I found Worth America and it pulled up red permatex > I was going to start over tonight > > On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 8:46 AM Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > >> I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by >> route jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some >> product for me. >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >> On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but >>> not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. >>> >>> Scott >>> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >>> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>> like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and >>> have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc >>> etc., with none of them totally fixing it >>> >>> unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly >>> there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we >>> do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head >>> does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the >>> pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst >>> and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big >>> issue to be solved as others have discussed >>> >>> long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest >>> improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race >>> 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! >>> >>> my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on >>> the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes >>> before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it >>> and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever >>> "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a >>> copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray >>> or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head >>> gasket, but some copper ones may benefit >>> >>> we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but >>> eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 >>> RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if >>> applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed >>> with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has >>> a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes >>> of it every week, so that was not an issue. >>> >>> i hope this might assist someone >>> >>> Terry >>> (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) >>> >>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Wed Mar 4 19:30:36 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:30:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 19:34:17 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:34:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <158769871.82373.1583375657962@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Jay, SFI belts are 2 years, FIA are 5 years, and conveniently are 2.5x more expensive... Hope that helps! Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 9:30 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Mar 4 19:46:48 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:46:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. ?Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. ?One enters ten events a year for three years. ?The other guy races once. ?Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? ?I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Wednesday, March 4, 2020,?kkjjk--- via Fot??wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:13:48 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:13:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:13:48 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:13:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:19:43 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 03:19:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> Message-ID: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott To: kkjjk Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at seiri.com Wed Mar 4 21:23:49 2020 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 23:23:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Phil Gott > To: kkjjk > Cc: fot > Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts > > If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. > Phil Gott > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Wed Mar 4 21:28:43 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 23:28:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column In-Reply-To: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> References: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> Message-ID: <01ab01d5f2a6$91a06ac0$b4e14040$@cox.net> I apologize for bothering everyone again, but can someone tell me what is the difference in the adjustable and non-adjustable TR3 steering columns? It's hard to tell from the parts manual. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 From: Fot On Behalf Of Henry Giffin via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020 11:51 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column FOTs - does anyone have an unneeded adjustable TR3 steering column or know where I might find one? It helps my legroom. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 23:36:37 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:36:37 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Couldn't find anything specific at SVRA's site. Our group, VARA requires rewebbing at 5 years from date of manufacture. Crow Enterprises is courteous enough to offer a rewebbing service without replacing the hardware on their belt systems. Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 6:30 PM kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have > read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I > just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June > 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be > "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are > over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Mar 5 04:32:55 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:32:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A2BB058-830A-408C-A4FD-DD4FB5F08C1A@aol.com> Thank you Robert! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 11:23 PM, robert bownes wrote: > > ? > My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). > > I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! > > By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > > > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Phil Gott >> To: kkjjk >> Cc: fot >> Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts >> >> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. >> Phil Gott >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Mar 5 04:32:55 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:32:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A2BB058-830A-408C-A4FD-DD4FB5F08C1A@aol.com> Thank you Robert! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 11:23 PM, robert bownes wrote: > > ? > My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). > > I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! > > By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > > > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Phil Gott >> To: kkjjk >> Cc: fot >> Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts >> >> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. >> Phil Gott >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 5 06:40:56 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:40:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Back in my climbing days when I had my sewing business, I was interested in how nylon ropes and webbing deteriorated.? The number 1 killer was UV light.? And climbing gear, aat least when being used and not gathering dust in the basement, gets a LOT of exposure to sunlight.? The second major cause of wear was abrasion.? Obviously having a climbing rope slide over a rough edge is bad for it, but the less obvious and more common case is gritty dust particles getting trapped in the weave, causing a little bit of abrasion every time it moves. Luckily, though, it is always cloudy and raining at racetracks, so seat belts never see sunshine, and there is never any dust blowing around that can settle on the webbing as the cars sit in the paddock. mjb. From quikrx at yahoo.com Thu Mar 5 07:11:40 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:11:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> Message-ID: <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Thu Mar 5 07:15:49 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:15:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> I forgot to mention, I have access to racing belts from a few suppliers - I'll get the list together later and repost what I can get, save you all some $$ if I can RalphApex2Apex Motorsportsapex2apexmotorsports at yahoo.com847 840 7366 On Thursday, March 5, 2020, 08:12:00 AM CST, ralph hansen via Fot wrote: MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Thu Mar 5 07:44:50 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:44:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks to all for your responses.? Robert and Mark, those are very interesting stories! -----Original Message----- From: ralph hansen via Fot Cc: fot Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 9:15 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts I forgot to mention, I have access to racing belts from a few suppliers - I'll get the list together later and repost what I can get, save you all some $$ if I can RalphApex2Apex Motorsportsapex2apexmotorsports at yahoo.com847 840 7366 On Thursday, March 5, 2020, 08:12:00 AM CST, ralph hansen via Fot wrote: MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Thu Mar 5 08:13:36 2020 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 15:13:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Looking for a particular fellow GT6 enthusiast In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi fellow FOT members, I am looking for a chap I was in touch with by phone this past summer regarding teaming up on building a rear axle conversion for our Rotoflex cars. I?m hoping you are on this list and will please respond to my personal email address. I?m in Ontario and as I recall you were in the US just south of me about 6 hours or so. Vince Garrett vangoughv at hotmail.com ________________________________ This message is being sent on behalf of the Simcoe County District School Board and/or your child?s school in compliance with the Canadian Anti-Spam Legislation. Questions regarding this electronic communication may be referred to: CASL, Simcoe County District School Board, 1170 Highway 26, Midhurst, Ontario, L9X 1N6. ________________________________ You may unsubscribe from receiving these messages by FORWARDING this email to "unsubscribe at scdsb.on.ca". ________________________________ This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for the use of the addressee(s) and may contain information that is privileged or confidential and protected under the Education Act and the Municipal Freedom of Information and Protection of Privacy Act. If you are not the intended recipient, or responsible for delivering the information to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, printing or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If this e-mail and any attachments were received in error, please notify the sender by reply e-mail and delete the original message. Please consider the environment before printing this email or attachments. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Mar 5 12:05:56 2020 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:05:56 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Thu Mar 5 12:17:02 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 13:17:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf until I find a use for them. That last part is s struggle. Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: > Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that > died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? > > I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? > > I also know I already lost this argument. > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > Sent from Outlook > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via > Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM > *To:* fot at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Seat belts > > Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each > buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a > year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves > should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need > to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. > > Bill Dentinger > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > > On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have > read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I > just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June > 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be > "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are > over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Thu Mar 5 12:21:29 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:21:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> I have tons also from SCCA? racing.....if someone can use, lemme know. In a message dated 3/5/2020 2:16:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what?organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf?until I find a use for them.? That last part is s struggle.? Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date?? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion.? Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date.? One enters ten events a year for three years.? The other guy races once.? Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date?? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Wednesday, March 4, 2020,?kkjjk--- via Fot??wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Mar 5 13:28:49 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 06:28:49 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: it may not be relevant to you guys in the USA, buts its worth mentioning that our local FIA 'agent", Motorsport Australia , commissioned research & testing into race seat belt life a few years ago. As a result, they have extended the life of "notional" 5 year FIA approved belts to 10 years, provided they have zero visual damage which includes extreme sun fading. They however ratified the 2-year life on SFI approved belts. I have asked for a copy of the technical report to support their conclusion and will post up a link or a copy when possible. Most people i race with use FIA approved belts. Mostly, we all tend to avoid SFI rated material as it has a very short approval life and almost the same cost (here) as FIA approved stuff. The latest FIA standards require dynamic sled testing of harnesses and components to 70g, which they claim comes from accident data and is survivable in modern race cars. My reading suggests the SFI testing does not include dynamic testing, simply stating maximum static failure forces, but i'll happily be contradicted. I would also comment that nearly everyone here has changed their belts over the past few years with the use of HANS devices which mostly require a 2" or narrower section in the over-shoulder belt . Nearly every race and rally 'speed" event here, now mandates HANS devices of some 'approved" form. The harness anchor locations have also come in for a lot more attention recently, especially as the shoulder harness angles are critical for most versions of the HANS device to work as intended. The use of the "crotch strap" has also come into focus and particularly how it is mounted. research has shown that if there is only a single crotch strap, it must be vertical or near vertical to work successfully, Anchors placed half-way under the seat so the strap runs backwards, are frowned upon and i know of a couple of technical scrutineers (inspectors) that have warned racers to fix that before their next event. There is a really good set of videos and articles on the SCHROTH web site for anyone interested. i'm not promoting any brand or system or rule. this is FYI only Terry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Thu Mar 5 17:50:04 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:50:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tee shirt order procedure - clarification Message-ID: Folks, While I have entered orders as I receive them via email, the preferred method is to go to FoT Tee Shirt order sheet and self-enter your order. That reduces the chances of errors, and has worked well for the 29 folks who have used it. Keep those orders coming! Thank you jim -- W4BEA The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily entertained is totally the way to go! ;-) J. Stoll -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Thu Mar 5 18:53:22 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 20:53:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02d001d5f35a$0679f600$136de200$@cox.net> I too have dozens of old belts in boxes in which the new ones arrived. A veterans support group collected them at the VRG Turkey Bowl for many years, but stopped a few years ago. I think they were using them for wounded veterans vehicles. Perhaps someone knows if there is still a program. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 From: Fot On Behalf Of Rick Kristoff via Fot Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 2:21 PM To: rkramer56 at gmail.com; dos_gusanos at msn.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts I have tons also from SCCA racing.....if someone can use, lemme know. In a message dated 3/5/2020 2:16:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf until I find a use for them. That last part is s struggle. Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot > wrote: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook _____ From: Fot > on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot > wrote: Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 9 13:00:17 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 12:00:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 1147/1300 Small Journal Rods Message-ID: Hello Amici, Carrillo is apparently no longer making 1300 small journal rods. Does anyone have a set of them or perhaps Pauter's they may be willing to part with? Thanks, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at web9.com Mon Mar 9 13:05:46 2020 From: bownes at web9.com (robert bownes) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 04:05:46 +0900 Subject: [Fot] 1147/1300 Small Journal Rods In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brad, I have 3. They are, however, having come from my string of exploding 1147's, all U shaped. ;) Bob On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 4:00 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Hello Amici, > > Carrillo is apparently no longer making 1300 small journal rods. Does > anyone have a set of them or perhaps Pauter's they may be willing to part > with? > > Thanks, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agb at compsnw.com Mon Mar 9 18:23:40 2020 From: agb at compsnw.com (Alec Buchan) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 17:23:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hauling help from Boise to Seattle Message-ID: <4de8be87-8910-0719-e657-fe7cd9e4d571@compsnw.com> Wondering if anybody will be traveling from the Twin Falls/Boise ID area to the greater Seattle/Tacoma (or further north) area with an empty trailer? I've got a Triumph Herald sitting in a garage in Twin Falls and a pair of seats in Boise looking to travel home. If so, please drop me a note. Thanks much! Alec Buchan Bellingham, WA 1962 Triumph TR4 SOVREN #5 EP From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 08:01:31 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 14:01:31 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Clutch Disc Message-ID: <24f4e79f1661404f814acc15dee47138@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey membership, found one more brand new Tilton or Quartermaster 7.25" friction disc with the small (7/8" I think) Spitfire 10 spline input shaft hub. Brand new need it gone. They are like 120.00 from Tilton and Quartermaster. I can ship it to the 48 states for a total of 90.00 if you think that is fair. Let me know. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 09:00:50 2020 From: jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com (Jonathan Wright) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:00:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings Message-ID: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... Thanks! Jonathan Wright -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Mar 10 09:20:17 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 11:20:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... Thanks! Jonathan Wright _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 10 10:17:25 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:17:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased. On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control arm Bushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil. We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 10 10:17:25 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:17:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased. On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control arm Bushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil. We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Tue Mar 10 10:23:40 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 16:23:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> References: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> Message-ID: <1963718748.1784664.1583857420456@mail.yahoo.com> I ran solid on my Spit - poly are good and much better than rubber but, solid is best for turn-in, stability and consistency at the limit Ralph On Tuesday, March 10, 2020, 11:18:07 AM CDT, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased.?On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control armBushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil.?We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: ? In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. ?I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. ?I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him...? Thanks!Jonathan Wright_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 10:24:54 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 16:24:54 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Clutch Disc In-Reply-To: References: <24f4e79f1661404f814acc15dee47138@dieselperformanceparts.com> Message-ID: <2ec79fcae20e46f6ac6d4379344b9302@dieselperformanceparts.com> I don?t know it is designed for the tilt on or quartermaster clutches. I think it will be too thin for a stock pressure plate. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Mike Harmuth [mailto:ofracer at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 10:45 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Disc Hi Mark, if it will work with a stock pressure plate, I'll take it. PayPal OK? mike harmuth On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 10:01 AM DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot > wrote: Hey membership, found one more brand new Tilton or Quartermaster 7.25? friction disc with the small (7/8? I think) Spitfire 10 spline input shaft hub. Brand new need it gone. They are like 120.00 from Tilton and Quartermaster. I can ship it to the 48 states for a total of 90.00 if you think that is fair. Let me know. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 10:34:58 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:34:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I ran this same question by FOT a month or two ago for my GT6. I wanted Delrin or Nylatron but these were impossible to find. Ted S suggested buying the Delrin and machining myself, but I didn't. In the end I ordered poly bushings from SuperPro USA. You can get an absolutely complete front suspension rebuild kit from the Roadster Factory which is has the black poly bushes that Scott describes. Best Brian On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 11:01 AM Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A > little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion > this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright > assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn > suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from > "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to > "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need > delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar > driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, > what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with > where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had > any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the > bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm > not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind > enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which > locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula > VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track > taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -- Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 11:11:38 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 17:11:38 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? Message-ID: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey trying to get ready for VIR in April and I am in need of a steel flywheel for a Spitfire 1296 engine. Tilton I think used to make them and then Quartermaster did too. Both of them have stopped. So hopefully someone has a new spare they don't need any more that I can buy. I use either a Quartermaster or Tilton 7.25" Clutch. Talk to me racers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 13:51:59 2020 From: jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com (Jonathan Wright) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:51:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <043FDB2E-1244-4633-AA4B-10C7851F2BF0@gmail.com> Orders the set from Scott Harper at team triumph, he said he thinks they are delrin but he isn?t sure. I?ll take Scott Janzens word that they work well enough for him should be better than what I have. Thanks for the help guys Jon Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:20 AM, Scott Janzen wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 14:28:03 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 13:28:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <24D36BB5-1E6E-4235-BEAA-692F06BF99AA@gmail.com> Hi Jonathan, A bit of a wild weekend for some of us at Willow Springs. My front bushings are solid. Comprised of a bronze Oilite bushing with an inner steel sleeve running on an AN bolt. The ends are capped with 3 steel backed, dimpled brass washers. I replaced the washers and the bolts in the rebuild. The washers were difficult to find and were sourced from England. I assume this was the hot set up in 1969/70 when the car was originally built. They may be described in Kas?s Comp Prep manual. I think I have some photos at home... Did you confirm GT6 or Spitfire bits up front? Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:01 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 12 06:35:23 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 12:35:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? In-Reply-To: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> References: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> Message-ID: <3ab9edadd7fb4192a2e824985d2b0c24@dieselperformanceparts.com> Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? Hey trying to get ready for VIR in April and I am in need of a steel flywheel for a Spitfire 1296 engine. Tilton I think used to make them and then Quartermaster did too. Both of them have stopped. So hopefully someone has a new spare they don't need any more that I can buy. I use either a Quartermaster or Tilton 7.25" Clutch. Talk to me racers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image007.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image007.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image008.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image008.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image009.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image009.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image010.jpg URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Mar 13 19:45:54 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 01:45:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Special tools... References: <1532120727.3093917.1584150354598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1532120727.3093917.1584150354598@mail.yahoo.com> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Friday, March 13, 2020,?FOT at aol.com??wrote: Amici... I guess all of us have special tools that we've had for a long time. ?Bench plates,?engine hoist, or whatever. ?For me it's a ball pein hammer. ?Seems like I've had it forever. ?I've replaced the head three times, and the handle eight times, but I've had that dam hammer forever. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Mar 14 06:18:37 2020 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 08:18:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races Message-ID: Lots of mechanical issues during the event. Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. mike h [image: P1015323.JPG] [image: P1015333.JPG] [image: P1015358.JPG] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015323.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2401158 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015333.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2295394 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015358.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2690096 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Mar 14 08:21:04 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 10:21:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Mike... At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten by equipment...)! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Lots of mechanical issues during the event. > Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. > > mike h > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From vfracing at aol.com Sat Mar 14 08:21:04 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 10:21:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Mike... At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten by equipment...)! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Lots of mechanical issues during the event. > Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. > > mike h > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sun Mar 15 04:38:33 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 06:38:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] NOS G-3 cam for sale, lots of other period go-fast bits as well Message-ID: <03f2798090488d3a82b34130de2b92ea@tr4racer.com> An old friend reached out to me a couple months ago, he raced a TR3 back in the day and messed around with Triumphs ever since. He got notice his landlord was selling the building he has been in for 50 years, so he got busy selling stuff. There is a bunch of TR3-4 go-fast bits looking for new race cars. A couple of prepped heads. One of Kastner's original G-3 cams, NOS, never in an engine. Several used ring and pinion sets, various ratios. Several Detroit Locker differentials, one TR3 rear axle set up with a Detroit Locker and a 4.55 R&P (stock axle shafts). An original finned aluminum sump. Etc... I'm planning on running the usual suspects this Spring, plus the Kastner Cup at M-O in June, happy to deliver any heavy bits if needed. Reply off list, just trying to help find new homes for these period goodies. Henry in CT From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sun Mar 15 04:43:58 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 06:43:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As long as we keep seeing John Hasty, our resident octogenarian, in the drivers seat, that's win for everybody! On 2020-03-14 10:21, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks, Mike... > At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met > other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten > by equipment...)! > Phil From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 15 05:41:57 2020 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 07:41:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Amen to that -----Original Message----- From: yellow04 via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2020 6:43 AM To: Phil Gott Cc: FoTTriumph Subject: Re: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races As long as we keep seeing John Hasty, our resident octogenarian, in the drivers seat, that's win for everybody! On 2020-03-14 10:21, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks, Mike... > At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met > other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten > by equipment...)! > Phil _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 16 15:29:20 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 21:29:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] VIR Message-ID: In view of the VA Gov's ban of all events of 100 or more yesterday, what is the status of the VIR event???? [cid:image001.png at 01D5FBB8.6C55BC50] John H. Hasty Attorney at Law Mullen Holland & Cooper P.A. 301 S. York St., P.O. Box 488 Gastonia, NC 28053 704.864.6751 (p) 704.861.8394 (f) mhc-law.com | jhasty at mhc-law.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 12907 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 11:54:49 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 17:54:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 4msonset at gmail.com Sat Mar 21 12:35:13 2020 From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 11:35:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My experience was spilling ink on my dad?s front seat back in the 90?s.... rather than fessing up... I cleaned the area with acetone, lightly sanded the area, mixed matching paint from aw simple acrylic art set, and airbrushed the front seat. It was as good as new and lasted for the decade the car remained with the family. That said... i was curious and did some googling. I found this company. I watched one of their videos. Looks like they know their business. ?Justin https://www.leathertouchupdye.com/ > On Mar 21, 2020, at 10:54 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > > Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sat Mar 21 12:38:05 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 18:38:05 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <84E3E211-74A2-4CFE-974B-E5BC6D3A0938@mhc-law.com> I understand Connely (sp like the leather used in Ferrari?s) is very good. Check it out on Google... Sent from my iPhone On Mar 21, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: ? Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 13:10:17 2020 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 19:10:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <668134238.226616.1584817817310@mail.yahoo.com> Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sat Mar 21 14:20:43 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 20:20:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <654191747.244169.1584822043211.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> GROIT'S GARAGE is a great source for anyone into 'detailing' cars. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, March 21, 2020,?Ken Suhre via Fot??wrote: Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 15:54:05 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 21:54:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> References: <654191747.244169.1584822043211.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2015771122.181862.1584827645223@mail.yahoo.com> I?ve been restoring a Momo wheel?s sundried leather with Neatsfoot oil from Tractor Supply. ? Normally used to condition leather saddles; it seems to be working very well!! Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 4:29 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: GROIT'S GARAGE is a great source for anyone into 'detailing' cars. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, March 21, 2020,?Ken Suhre via Fot??wrote: Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Sat Mar 21 16:42:48 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (hankgiffin) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 18:42:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jack, I used Leatherique on my 65 Morgan abt 2 years ago and Claussens kit on MY 38 MGVA a while ago (I think they went out of business but the same products as Leatherique).? Order extra conditioner.? It is amazing.? Just keep soaking the leather.? It softens cardboard-like leather.? You won't believe how nice it comes out.? ? ?I've tried a bunch of other leather treatments.? Most are made for modern cars, not 50 year old dried out seats.? ? ? ?Take care, HankSent via the Samsung Galaxy Note8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Jack Wheeler via Fot Date: 3/21/20 13:58 (GMT-05:00) To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks.Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 17:37:25 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 23:37:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Thanks References: <1856317645.323334.1584833845910.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1856317645.323334.1584833845910@mail.yahoo.com> The response to my request for leather repair has been overwhelming.? Now I have lots of leads to follow.? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjohns at woh.rr.com Sat Mar 21 17:39:56 2020 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 19:39:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 103, Issue 79. Leather conditioning. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <77A9F49C-AC2E-4876-98AD-FFD06EBB102D@woh.rr.com> Jack, neatfoot oil on the boot. It will leave the surface a bit oily temporarily if used on the seats but will dry up. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 21, 2020, at 2:00 PM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Fot mailing list submissions to > fot at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > fot-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > fot-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Leather Conditioning (Jack Wheeler) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 17:54:49 +0000 (UTC) > From: Jack Wheeler > To: FOT List > Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning > Message-ID: <307310677.207120.1584813289882 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. > Jack > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Fot Digest, Vol 103, Issue 79 > ************************************ From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Mar 22 07:12:56 2020 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 13:12:56 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months. Available almost everywhere. Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Mar 22 08:28:08 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 14:28:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <367746558.137674.1584887288144.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> Hooray for Petrolium Jelly! ?Who remembers the erotic WHITE ROSE radio commercials in the 1950s? "Use it in the morning...use it at night...use WHITE ROSE Petrolium?Jelly." Catchy tune, everyone was singing. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, March 22, 2020,?Henry A. Morrison via Fot??wrote: #yiv0773956919 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months.? Available almost everywhere.? Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning?Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Sun Mar 22 10:03:50 2020 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 16:03:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> References: <367746558.137674.1584887288144.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <370172092.184714.1584893030675@mail.yahoo.com> I was probably singing You Ain't Nuthin But a Houndog. On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 09:36:04 AM CDT, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Hooray for Petrolium Jelly! ?Who remembers the erotic WHITE ROSE radio commercials in the 1950s? "Use it in the morning...use it at night...use WHITE ROSE Petrolium?Jelly." Catchy tune, everyone was singing. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, March 22, 2020,?Henry A. Morrison via Fot??wrote: There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months.? Available almost everywhere.? Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning?Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Mar 22 13:05:52 2020 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 19:05:52 +0000 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update Message-ID: Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sun Mar 22 16:45:46 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 08:45:46 +1000 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans Terry On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: > Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a > Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This > update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered > a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are > changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of > anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what > is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our > friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends > making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard > decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the > event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully > things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and > comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. > > > > Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. > > > > Marty Sukey > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Sun Mar 22 21:33:14 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 20:33:14 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Message-ID: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! [image: IMG_8745.jpg] Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8745.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 390239 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sun Mar 22 21:58:11 2020 From: fmccjr at aol.com (fmccjr at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 23:58:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY (It?s about all I can do?) > On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans > > Terry > > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >> >> >> >> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >> >> >> >> Marty Sukey >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sun Mar 22 21:58:11 2020 From: fmccjr at aol.com (fmccjr at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 23:58:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY (It?s about all I can do?) > On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans > > Terry > > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >> >> >> >> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >> >> >> >> Marty Sukey >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sun Mar 22 21:59:18 2020 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 22:59:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <17FA7C7D-4ABE-436A-9DEA-93A30F0AEA90@gmail.com> ?? Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 22, 2020, at 10:58 PM, fmccjr--- via Fot wrote: > > ?Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! > > Rick McCurdy > Newburgh, NY > > (It?s about all I can do?) > >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >> >> thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans >> >> Terry >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >>> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >>> >>> >>> >>> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >>> >>> >>> >>> Marty Sukey >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 05:30:37 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 12:30:37 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" Aan: "van mulders marcel" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200323_121841.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2655945 bytes Desc: not available URL: From atr6racer at hotmail.com Mon Mar 23 08:14:34 2020 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:14:34 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR6/GT6 Quarter Master flywheel set up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To all TR6/GT6 racers out there, I have used a QM 7 pound steel flywheel and 7.25" clutch pictured in the attachment for the past 25 years with no failures. I have purchased 10 of these flywheels over that period, mostly due to minimum order of 5 flywheels per order as these are custom just for the Triumph six cylinder. This is for the short butt/late model crankshaft only. It has the ring gear actually cut into the flywheel itself, which is made from a high alloy steel. Clutch disc run around $60 each, and they can do any center spline you want. As for release bearings I use a GT6 throw out bearing on my Jerico gearbox due to the smaller diameter as it fits the fingers of the pressure plate perfectly. You can use the stock TR6 release bearing but the amount of force needed to disengage is really way to much for your leg! I also us the annular style release bearings and find that set up very easy to operate and maintain. I do not need 5 flywheels, so I'm looking for at least 4 other Racers out in FOT land that might want one of these flywheels. I already have one spot filled but the more the merrier. I have never had a failure with this set up and the only thing I do different is order the flywheel with double dowels, I keep the standard 4 bolt 7/16" bolts. All I do is replace the disc every 3 or 4 events, depending on how much paddock driving I have to do as that is tougher on the disc than actual racing, especially after coming off the track hot with a 1.70 first gear! No hurry, Quarter Master is now shutdown due to this pandemic, so this effort has plenty of time to get together. Last order I did the cost was around $550 for each flywheel. You can only use QM pressure plate with this flywheel as Tilton pressure plates are different. If you are interested of have any questions let me know. Sam Halkias -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0789.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2249286 bytes Desc: IMG_0789.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0788.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2378922 bytes Desc: IMG_0788.JPG URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Mon Mar 23 08:29:19 2020 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:29:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com>, <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot > wrote: This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel ________________________________ Van: "trbelgium1" > Aan: "van mulders marcel" > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. <20200323_121841.jpg> _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 23 09:30:49 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 09:30:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 09:45:43 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 16:45:43 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <1520342913.240493038.1584978343114.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Looking at the curve,.018 or a bit more, on the inlet valve, seems about right. On tildentechnologies.com .026" is recommended, but with that much valve lash, it seems that the valve is beginning to open when the cam follower is already at the beginning of the flank. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 15:29:19 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" < [ mailto:trbelgium1 at gmail.com | trbelgium1 at gmail.com ] > Aan: "van mulders marcel" < [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. BQ_BEGIN <20200323_121841.jpg> BQ_END BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 10:35:41 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 09:35:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. Apparently not... *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the > original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but > I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a > round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 > race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result > would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I > checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the > the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains > might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them > match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances > that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully > made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days > staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would > be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for > rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V > Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, > I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if > need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving > on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved > each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines > during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very > successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 11:32:41 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 18:32:41 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <07b1d65a-6149-d9a5-48df-65e5c733c172@pobox.com> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <1520342913.240493038.1584978343114.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <07b1d65a-6149-d9a5-48df-65e5c733c172@pobox.com> Message-ID: <1182688158.241016524.1584984761089.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Larry, It is your webpage that made me make this curve to find the right valve lash. Do you agree that 0.026" is too much? Marcel Van: "Larry Young" Aan: "van mulders marcel" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 18:06:13 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Marcel, The 0.026 on my website is the value that is usually recommended by BFE. I have a webpage that describes how it "should" be determined - [ http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tip_Lash.html | http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tip_Lash.html ] . This may give a smaller number than what is recommended. The procedure will avoid the "tuning fork" problem we discussed earlier. - Larry On 3/23/2020 10:45 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot wrote: Looking at the curve,.018 or a bit more, on the inlet valve, seems about right. On tildentechnologies.com .026" is recommended, but with that much valve lash, it seems that the valve is beginning to open when the cam follower is already at the beginning of the flank. Marcel Van: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Aan: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 15:29:19 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" < [ mailto:trbelgium1 at gmail.com | trbelgium1 at gmail.com ] > Aan: "van mulders marcel" < [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. BQ_BEGIN <20200323_121841.jpg> BQ_END BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com ] BQ_END -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 13:21:24 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:21:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. Bob Kramer On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, > like resizing rods. > > Apparently not... > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > > > On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Mar 23 14:18:14 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:18:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <158571754.559110.1584994694343@mail.yahoo.com> The block & caps are pretty much married for life.To replace missing caps you'll need a pile of caps from which to choose & a lot of luck for a close match, & then a machine shop that can do a good line-bore.Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot To: Brad Eells Cc: FOT Sent: Mon, Mar 23, 2020 11:35 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Mar 23 16:38:02 2020 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 17:38:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating indeed. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ? > I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. > > Bob Kramer > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >> Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. >> >> Apparently not... >> >> >> Brad Eells >> Chino CA >> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >> >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Mon Mar 23 18:01:07 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:01:07 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the > original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but > I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a > round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 > race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result > would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I > checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the > the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains > might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them > match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances > that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully > made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days > staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would > be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for > rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V > Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, > I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if > need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving > on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved > each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines > during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very > successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 23 18:01:34 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BC57E78-469D-4B49-BB28-B6DA7AFE9DD4@aol.com> Might be best to fund another block. There are plenty of them around. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 23 18:01:34 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BC57E78-469D-4B49-BB28-B6DA7AFE9DD4@aol.com> Might be best to fund another block. There are plenty of them around. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 23 19:20:11 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 21:20:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: > > ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating indeed. > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. >>> >>> Apparently not... >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: >>>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>>> >>>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>>> >>>> Solutions or recommendations? >>>> >>>> Thanks >>>> Bud >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Amici, >>>>> >>>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>>> >>>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>>> >>>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>>> >>>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>>> >>>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>>> >>>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>>> >>>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Cheers, >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Brad Eells >>>>> Chino CA >>>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> Bud Rolofson >>>> >>>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>>> >>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 20:35:57 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 21:35:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 20:46:24 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 19:46:24 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Habit from a long long time ago error made me mark each main cap in my engines with a center punch and the side of the block area with a simular mark so that reassembly would always be correct & easy. This came from my work in the very early 50's and unknown engines for all over the world where you'd better have a clue on how to put that devil back together. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 7:36 PM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same > side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 > thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the > right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the > tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. > this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will > clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the > faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is > align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move > the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the > other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the > case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, > this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring > the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so > subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone > (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing > shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot > wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Tue Mar 24 05:27:14 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:27:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 05:47:41 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:47:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >>> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 05:47:41 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:47:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >>> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com Tue Mar 24 06:26:15 2020 From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 08:26:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: <002501d601d7$6a293450$3e7b9cf0$@rr.com> Precision Automotive in Cortland NY has done cam bearings for 6 cylinder TRs for me. It sounds like it's a PITA for them but I've had them do two for me. Both were perfect. Russ Spitfire #49 -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of yellow04 via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 7:27 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Line Boring Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Tue Mar 24 06:26:40 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:26:40 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone BQ_BEGIN On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: BQ_END BQ_BEGIN firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud BQ_BEGIN On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad Eells Chino CA #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net ] BQ_END Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage ] : [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 06:29:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 12:29:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <262861113.1165263.1585052941420@mail.yahoo.com> I forgot to mention, that in terms of which bearing caps go with which engine, the factory stamped each block and each cap with an alphanumeric code, like "B24". ?Each block is stamped on the flange where the oil pan bolts, usually near the rear main. ?Each cap is stamped on a flat surface, sometimes on the face where the washer sits under the bolt head. ?If you are buying a used, disassembled block it is a good idea to make sure all the alphanumeric codes are the same. ?I got burned by this once..... Phil -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott To: Bob Kramer Cc: Enquiries Road & Track ; FOT Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 7:47 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: ? Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: ?firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 06:32:03 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 12:32:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Marcel; Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". ?Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. ?Would like to know if there is a better solution. Phil -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: Phil Gott Cc: fot Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it?The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too.Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet?Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 06:52:37 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:52:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. Bob Kramer On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the > caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it > should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark > each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine > in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both > due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be > sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal > may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the > centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal > where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will > compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one > of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of > the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go > slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same > side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 > thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the > right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the > tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. > this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will > clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the > faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is > align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move > the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the > other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the > case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, > this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring > the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so > subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone > (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing > shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot > wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 07:12:10 2020 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 08:12:10 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Bob, Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? ?Keith Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring machine yet. ?His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. Duncan On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , wrote: > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored.? I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine.? Unfortunately the outsourced machine?shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > > > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > > > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > > > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > > > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > > > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals.? Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > > > > > > > > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > > > > > > > > > if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > > > > > > > > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > > > > > > > > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > > > > > > > > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > > > > > > > > > if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > > > > > > > > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > > > > > > > > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact > > > > > > > > > > ?Terry > > > > > Australia > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > > > > > > > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Solutions or recommendations? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > Bud > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Amici, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Brad Eells > > > > > > > > Chino CA > > > > > > > > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > > > > > > > > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > > > > > > > > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bud Rolofson > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) > > > > > > > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 > > > > > > > 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) > > > > > > > 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle > > > > > > > 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Mar 24 07:32:18 2020 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:32:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: <06b401d601e0$a42ca660$ec85f320$@comcast.net> There are a few different shops in Colorado that do line bores. The Block Shop is one and HiPro Engines is the other. I built a GT6 motor about 5 years ago and British Sports Werks in Estes Park got the cam bearings drilled for me. http://britishsportswerks.com/ Jim G -----Original Message----- From: Fot On Behalf Of yellow04 via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 5:27 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Line Boring Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 08:11:39 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 09:11:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: I think it was Waco Machine. Bob Kramer On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > Bob, > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? Keith > Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike > used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring > machine yet. His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last > there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > Duncan > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , > wrote: > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of > "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to > have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin > and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. > Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for > the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > >> Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the >> caps and saddles are always on the same side. >> In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it >> should be really hard to mix them up. >> Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to >> mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. >> I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT >> machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, >> both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: >> 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to >> be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. >> 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal >> may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the >> centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal >> where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will >> compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one >> of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of >> the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go >> slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. >> Phil Gott >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot >> wrote: >> >> ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same >> side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 >> thing? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the >> right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the >> tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. >> this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will >> clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the >> faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is >> align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly >> move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on >> the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the >> case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, >> this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring >> the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so >> subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone >> (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing >> shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >>> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >>> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >>> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >>> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >>> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >>> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >>> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >>> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >>> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >>> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >>> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >>> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >>> be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >>> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >>> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. >>> Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination >>> if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >>> on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >>> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >>> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >>> successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> *Brad Eells* >>> *Chino CA* >>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 08:13:21 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 09:13:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: Duncan If he has one maybe we can talk him out of his line boring machine and set it up with Dennis at Precision? On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > Bob, > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? Keith > Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike > used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring > machine yet. His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last > there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > Duncan > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , > wrote: > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of > "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to > have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin > and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. > Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for > the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > >> Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the >> caps and saddles are always on the same side. >> In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it >> should be really hard to mix them up. >> Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to >> mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. >> I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT >> machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, >> both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: >> 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to >> be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. >> 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal >> may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the >> centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal >> where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will >> compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one >> of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of >> the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go >> slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. >> Phil Gott >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot >> wrote: >> >> ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same >> side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 >> thing? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the >> right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the >> tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. >> this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will >> clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the >> faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is >> align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly >> move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on >> the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the >> case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, >> this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring >> the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so >> subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone >> (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing >> shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >>> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >>> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >>> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >>> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >>> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >>> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >>> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >>> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >>> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >>> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >>> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >>> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >>> be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >>> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >>> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. >>> Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination >>> if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >>> on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >>> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >>> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >>> successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> *Brad Eells* >>> *Chino CA* >>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Mar 24 08:23:10 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 14:23:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... References: <1197088337.795140.1585059790307.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1197088337.795140.1585059790307@mail.yahoo.com> Many times a line-hone will get things back in spec, boring shouldn't move the crank center more than a few thou, unless as the OP, non-matching caps are being fitted, or the engine has been through some major trauma and may have other issues.The cap is faced and the majority of material is removed from it until the block has just a slight shadow left right at the parting faces. Yes the register for the seal housing in the block will then be oval, hand filing or, depending on equipment available, facing a little off one half of the seal housing where it fits in the block will get it back on center.Yeah excessive line-boring will add slack to the chain & change the deck height, I've also seen engine mains & rods that were bored so much that there wasn't enough notch left for the bearing tang to fit, not recommended... Glen -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott via Fot To: Bob Kramer Cc: FOT Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 7:48 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: ? Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: ?firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barry at penybryn.ca Tue Mar 24 10:57:34 2020 From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:57:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> References: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. Barry. - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. - Keep safe everyone. - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Hi Marcel; Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. Phil -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: Phil Gott Cc: fot Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? Marcel _____ Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad Eells Chino CA #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! Image removed by sender. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 440 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 11:11:51 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:11:51 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: To the best of my knowledge the the 6 cylinder blocks were bored for a larger camshaft bearing size and this diameter is what is needed to install the Spitfire 1296 cc cam bearings. In the many many 6 cylinder engines I built, I never once had to have anything line bored for installing cam bearings, but the camshafts were not useable for reginding as the bearings surfaces were too large. My very earliest little books in the 60's detailed how to install the cam bearingsI normally used for the Spitfire 1296 engines. No machining was necessary for this procedure. i discovered this in my very first work on the TR 250 engine in 1966 which was supplied without cam bearings and the larger camshaft surfaces. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 4:27 AM yellow04 via Fot wrote: > Very frustrating indeed! > > I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder > block for cam bearings in his shop. > > On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot > >> wrote: > > > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating > >> indeed. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:49:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:49:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> References: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Message-ID: Thank you Barry! Ken, what have you developed for this? Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 24, 2020, at 12:57 PM, Barry Munson wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. > > Barry. > - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. > - Keep safe everyone. > - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM > To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Hi Marcel; > > Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. > > However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: van.mulders.marcel > To: Phil Gott > Cc: fot > Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? > The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. > Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? > Marcel > > Van: "fot" > Aan: "Bob Kramer" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:49:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:49:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> References: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Message-ID: Thank you Barry! Ken, what have you developed for this? Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 24, 2020, at 12:57 PM, Barry Munson wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. > > Barry. > - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. > - Keep safe everyone. > - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM > To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Hi Marcel; > > Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. > > However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: van.mulders.marcel > To: Phil Gott > Cc: fot > Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? > The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. > Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? > Marcel > > Van: "fot" > Aan: "Bob Kramer" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 14:01:28 2020 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 15:01:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: Maybe? he lives near my son so next time I run into him I?ll ask about line boring and other machining, and whether he?s interested in selling equipment. ?I?m thinking he not mind having the cash ? but, incidentally, what?s the word on Dennis? future plans? Duncan On Mar 24, 2020, 9:11 AM -0500, Bob Kramer , wrote: > Duncan > > If he has one maybe we can talk him out of his line boring machine and set it up with Dennis at Precision? > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > > > Bob, > > > > > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX?? Keith Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring machine yet.? His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > > > > > Duncan > > > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , wrote: > > > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored.? I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine.? Unfortunately the outsourced machine?shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. > > > > > > > > Bob Kramer > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > > > > > > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > > > > > > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > > > > > > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > > > > > > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > > > > > > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals.? Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > > > > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ?Terry > > > > > > > > Australia > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > > > > > > > > > > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Solutions or recommendations? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > Bud > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Amici, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Brad Eells > > > > > > > > > > > Chino CA > > > > > > > > > > > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > > > > > > > > > > > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > > > > > > > > > > > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bud Rolofson > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) > > > > > > > > > > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 > > > > > > > > > > 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) > > > > > > > > > > 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle > > > > > > > > > > 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kknight at klaenv.com Fri Mar 27 08:35:26 2020 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 07:35:26 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing Message-ID: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E Good day to the FOT family. In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few minutes! Stay safe, Ken -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Mar 27 12:08:39 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 18:08:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> Message-ID: <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> AM i STILL ON fot? ?.don,t seem to get the day to day emails from everyone ?....anyway,I have some interesting things that some may be interested in.....Rick? kristoff In a message dated 3/27/2020 10:35:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E Good day to the FOT family.? In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu.? While we are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic.? The story, the characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane.? Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best viewing on YouTube! ??Many of us have old British cars, think of this as the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water!? So follow along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few minutes! Stay safe, Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Fri Mar 27 14:19:39 2020 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 15:19:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: O.K. Rick. I'll bite.. What do you have of interest?? On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 1:08 PM Rick Kristoff via Fot wrote: > AM i STILL ON fot ?.don,t seem to get the day to day emails from everyone > ?....anyway,I have some interesting things that some may be interested > in.....Rick kristoff > > In a message dated 3/27/2020 10:35:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, > fot at autox.team.net writes: > > https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E > > Good day to the FOT family. > > In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is > a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we > are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the > full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the > characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic > (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. > > Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best > viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as > the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow > along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few > minutes! > > Stay safe, Ken > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mckearn2 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Mar 28 08:58:49 2020 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 10:58:49 -0400 Subject: [Fot] WE ARE OPEN Message-ID: <1e10286a-8ab1-e500-b684-02e7e42c0d8f@bright.net> ?? ??? ??? ??? ??? ? We're open and shipping!? There's no better time to get started on that project vehicle! We are here to take your calls and help you get the parts you need. NEW - USED - REBUILT - PERFORMANCE - NOS ??? Servicing your brakes? Why not add our Steelbraid brake hose? How about new wheel bearing kits. Time to replace or upgrade suspension bushings, try our poly bushings! Keep the family and yourself well. Then improve your car's "health". Get ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Stay well and healthy. Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 103 E. Main St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Mar 28 12:38:29 2020 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:38:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> Message-ID: Thanks Ken, This is reminding me why I sold my last boat and bought a race car. mike h On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 10:35 AM Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: > https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E > > Good day to the FOT family. > > In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is > a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we > are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the > full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the > characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic > (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. > > Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best > viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as > the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow > along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few > minutes! > > Stay safe, Ken > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfetta95 at optonline.net Sat Mar 28 15:14:37 2020 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Redmond) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 17:14:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races > > Friends! > > Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. > > Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! > > > Any ideas or suggestions? > > Todd > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Sat Mar 28 15:31:26 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 21:31:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <1307871751.281870.1585431086804@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Todd, My first question would be, was the engine fully warmed up when you set the idle at 1100? (Like HOT)? ?I know once my race engine gets warm the idle is much higher; make sure to set idle with a hot engine... ?but maybe you already did that! Let us know! Thanks,Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, March 28, 2020, 5:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again. Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends! Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions? Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Sat Mar 28 15:33:35 2020 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:33:35 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <4E6FCB06-3E7D-417D-9801-A86819AF5E9B@artwithcars.com> On my racing TR3, I have a fairly stout secondary carb linkage return spring. It ensures that the carbs always get pulled back to zero ~Steve > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:14 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sun Mar 29 05:24:59 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 11:24:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow.Tighten the clamp and check it again.If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak.HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again.Sorry for the double post if it comes thru.Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends!Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ.Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions?Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ppopplewell at gmail.com Sun Mar 29 06:27:55 2020 From: ppopplewell at gmail.com (Peter Popplewell) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:27:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I had a very similar problem to this on my TR6 after switching carbs from Zenith to a pair of Hitachi-SUs off a Datsun 240z. I swore I had more than enough ?return spring? on the throttle linkage, would work perfectly with throttle blips in the garage with no load, but on the street it would behave exactly as you?re describing. I switched to much heavier return springs and problem went away. On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:25 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: > Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are > returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow. > Tighten the clamp and check it again. > If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could > have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak. > HTH > Glen > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Redmond via Fot > To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races > > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > Todd > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > Friends! > Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. > Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i > pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled > off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added > a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was > sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back > up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set > to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! > > Any ideas or suggestions? > Todd > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ppopplewell at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:36:36 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 15:36:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <353606809.416062.1585496196701@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - Not for nothing, but sometimes we fix symptoms but the original problem is still there. I would verify that the throttle shafts are not worn and that the butterflies close completely. As most of you probably know, with no load on an engine, it doesn't take much more than a crack of the throttle to see some wicked pissah (*) RPM's! I did an initial startup on a TR6 race motor with a Weber DCOE 40 that was stock on the idle screw - I saw 7000 on the tach as I shut off the ignition. It went to those RPMs in less than a second. Speaking of which - the idle stops on the stock DCOE40's SUCK. The metal is too thin for the screw contact patch and they wedge in there... makes syncing the carbs a real beyatch. But it also why I cringe or resort to profanity if an over zealous tech inspector tries snapping the throttles. But I got to build that motor... TWICE. Regards,Bob Lang(*) W-P is a regional expression for superlative measure. On Sunday, March 29, 2020, 8:40:00 AM EDT, Peter Popplewell via Fot wrote: I had a very similar problem to this on my TR6 after switching carbs from Zenith to a pair of Hitachi-SUs off a Datsun 240z.? I swore I had more than enough ?return spring? on the throttle linkage, would work perfectly with throttle blips in the garage with no load, but on the street it would behave exactly as you?re describing.? I switched to much heavier return springs and problem went away. On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:25 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow.Tighten the clamp and check it again.If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak.HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again.Sorry for the double post if it comes thru.Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends!Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ.Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions?Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ppopplewell at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:59:15 2020 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:59:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: Todd Perhaps the key bit of info here is the fact that this occurred when you stepped on the clutch! Maybe check your motor/trans mounts. No racin here Stuck in the scatter here in NorCal Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > ? > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:59:15 2020 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:59:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: Todd Perhaps the key bit of info here is the fact that this occurred when you stepped on the clutch! Maybe check your motor/trans mounts. No racin here Stuck in the scatter here in NorCal Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > ? > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Sun Mar 29 13:45:51 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 19:45:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] old triumph books and manuals References: <378521062.685123.1585511151222.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <378521062.685123.1585511151222@mail.yahoo.com> Have almost 30 yrs of accumulated Spitfire and other models ..Comp. preps , workshop from Coventry HQ,Dealer parts manual for mk III s ,glovebox manuals, etc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Mon Mar 30 08:53:05 2020 From: don at dcphotos.com (Don Couch) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 09:53:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Amici, I?d like to nominate John Vincent. He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. Anyway, can I get a second? Don J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com Sent from my iPhone From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 09:16:27 2020 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 11:16:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: Seconded On Mon, Mar 30, 2020, 10:53 AM Don Couch via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > I?d like to nominate John Vincent. > He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it > off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. > They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and > got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. > Anyway, can I get a second? > Don > > J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbm.spitfire at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Mar 30 09:24:56 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 09:24:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 30 09:39:32 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 15:39:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America.? Road America is big, and it was not a problem.? In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions.? For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST).? I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know).? The race was in the rain.? I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race.? I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap.? But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. ? Not sure, but 1990, I think. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:06:09 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:06:09 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > > Amici... > > They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. > > Not sure, but 1990, I think. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot > To: fot > Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination > > Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 > people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look > like > > mjb. > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:27:02 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:27:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault? I think it was al combination of all of the above. As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. "Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > > 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. > > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> >> Amici... >> >> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >> >> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >> >> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >> like >> >> mjb. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 10:33:39 2020 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 11:33:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It was a perfect storm of multiple factors, methinks. With a trigger. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > ? > 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. > > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> >> Amici... >> >> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >> >> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >> >> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >> like >> >> mjb. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:34:07 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:34:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> Message-ID: There's a 14.5 minute video compilation of in car videos also. Read the comments. Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > > So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault? > I think it was al combination of all of the above. > As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. "Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: >> >> 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. >> >> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY >> >> Sent from my Commodore 64 >> >>> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici... >>> >>> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >>> >>> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >>> >>> Bill Dentinger >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >>> To: fot >>> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >>> >>> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >>> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >>> like >>> >>> mjb. >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 30 11:05:59 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 17:05:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1614140389.1193895.1585587959709@mail.yahoo.com> A lot of carnage that day. Carl Jensen (RIP, RA Competition Guru at the time) always said the issue was these big, powerful V8s laying back and creating distance between themselves and the car in front of them.? Many of the cars up front were still tight together, and when the track went green these guys in the back came storming up the hill, sometimes four wide. After that Jensen insisted the entire grid maintain a 'car's length' between you and the guy in front of you.? If you didn't, the group did not get a green flag. I can't remember for sure, but I think there was no passing until you went under the bridge as well. Bill Dentinger PS? Later Carl Jensen re-thought the rule and told Race Groups that they would ALWAYS get a green flag, regardless of how orderly they were or weren't.? I guess they decided? that was safer. -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson To: Bill Dentinger Cc: mark ; fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 9:34 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination There's ?a 14.5 minute video compilation of in car videos also. Read the comments. Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault??I think it was al combination of all of the above.As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. ?"Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici... They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America.? Road America is big, and it was not a problem.? In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions.? For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST).? I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know).? The race was in the rain.? I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race.? I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap.? But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. ? Not sure, but 1990, I think. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 13:57:31 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 12:57:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... Message-ID: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> Amici, Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... Cheers! -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8793.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 400041 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone From slaterptrs at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 14:49:18 2020 From: slaterptrs at gmail.com (Tim Slater) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 16:49:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... In-Reply-To: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> References: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> Message-ID: Brad, Adding washers is an old trick to adjust the oil pressure relief. Should see 75 -80 lbs or so when cold and 60-65 running hot at high RPM. Tim Slater. Phone: 561-820-0021 On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 4:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. > > 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. > > Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different > thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... > > Cheers! > > > > Brad Eells > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/slaterptrs at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Mar 30 17:20:15 2020 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 18:20:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: That was Bill Collin?s old car. Very good driver. Wish he was back in track with us. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:53 AM, Don Couch via Fot wrote: > > ? > Amici, > I?d like to nominate John Vincent. > He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. > They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. > Anyway, can I get a second? > Don > > J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 30 19:20:48 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 21:20:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 Message-ID: has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on these engines - are Spitfires the same too? In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 30 19:25:40 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 01:25:40 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... In-Reply-To: References: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com>, Message-ID: We use 60 @ cold idle & 80 hot 6000 rpm Sent from my iPhone On Mar 30, 2020, at 4:49 PM, Tim Slater via Fot wrote: ? Brad, Adding washers is an old trick to adjust the oil pressure relief. Should see 75 -80 lbs or so when cold and 60-65 running hot at high RPM. Tim Slater. Phone: 561-820-0021 On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 4:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: Amici, Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... Cheers! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/slaterptrs at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Mon Mar 30 21:36:28 2020 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 23:36:28 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <27877e28-2cba-ed46-7011-22a0ca745922@verizon.net> Hi??? Scott. I'm pretty sure Richard Good has titanium retainers. Use the same ones on both intake and exhaust valves; eliminates the two piece retainer (collar) on the exhaust valves. Not sure about Spits. Cheers Bill On 3/30/2020 9:20 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on > these engines - are Spitfires the same too? > In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Mon Mar 30 23:31:21 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (Geoff Byrne) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 16:31:21 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83C61BFD-F9DB-48BC-95B0-CDF1151A120F@optusnet.com.au> Richard Good has titanium caps I?ve been using on a number of engines for over ten years never had a problem in all those years if racing Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone > On 31 Mar 2020, at 12:21 pm, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on these engines - are Spitfires the same too? > In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au > > From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Mar 31 14:28:56 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 16:28:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup shirts Message-ID: Amici, While we're all doing laps around the ceiling being in self-isolation, what better time to order shirts for the Cup event. Remember that no money will change hands until the shirts are actually made. Currently we have 59 shirts ordered, which is well below the threshold needed. If the event happens, the shirts will be made, but if it is cancelled, no money changes hands - nothing happens. The absolute deadline for ordering is 30 JUN, but please don't wait. To paraphrase a political joke on Chicago, order early and order often :-) So, let's be super-optimistic and order some shirts! The process is simple: go to order shirts here and fill in your info. Very simple, very easy. Lots of businesses are currently offering free, no contact delivery. Ted is offering free delivery to the track but will certainly shake your hand or clap you on the back - that's the comradery we need! Stay well everyone jim -- W4BEA The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily entertained is totally the way to go! ;-) J. Stoll -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Mar 31 15:29:35 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 17:29:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Kastner Cup shirts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ack. I guess this virus isolation business has rotted my brain. The absolute deadline for shirt orders is 30 APR, *NOT* 30 JUN. (thanks Ted and Jerry). jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From macdonaldp at rogers.com Sun Mar 1 14:45:52 2020 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 16:45:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$.ref@rogers.com> Message-ID: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Hi I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. Can I get a second? Thanks Paul MacDonald -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 15:23:07 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 14:23:07 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise In-Reply-To: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Message-ID: Second here! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 1, 2020, at 1:46 PM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi > > I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. > > Can I get a second? > > Thanks > Paul MacDonald > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Sun Mar 1 16:07:48 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:07:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise In-Reply-To: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> References: <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$.ref@rogers.com> <001b01d5f012$c8b28d40$5a17a7c0$@rogers.com> Message-ID: <1560885502.4267053.1583104068451@mail.yahoo.com> Second!? I spoke with him (by email) regarding his Group 44 Spitfire for sale.? Wish I had the money!-- Jay De Pol -----Original Message----- From: Paul MacDonald via Fot To: Fot Cc: classicbrit Sent: Sun, Mar 1, 2020 4:51 pm Subject: [Fot] Nomination Richie Scalise <!-- #yiv5484185488 _filtered {} #yiv5484185488 #yiv5484185488 p.yiv5484185488MsoNormal, #yiv5484185488 li.yiv5484185488MsoNormal, #yiv5484185488 div.yiv5484185488MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} #yiv5484185488 a:link, #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5484185488 a:visited, #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv5484185488 span.yiv5484185488EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Times New Roman", "serif";color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #yiv5484185488 .yiv5484185488MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} _filtered {} #yiv5484185488 div.yiv5484185488WordSection1 {} -->Hi ?I would like to nominate Richie Scalise for membership. He has raced Triumphs in SCCA for 20 years and currently races an immaculate TR250. He also owns the Group 44 Spitfire. I met him here in Florida at his business, www.classicbritauto.com He should have been a member long ago, a great addition. ?Can I get a second? ?ThanksPaul MacDonald_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 1 16:29:44 2020 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:29:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 1 16:53:05 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:53:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1054775077.4298213.1583106785036@mail.yahoo.com> My data is a little dated, but when I was racing my TR-4 I always used the steel competition head gasket, which was supplied by the factory as part of the decompression kit for cars destined for Europe, which did not have the required octane in their fuel.? I used a regional product called "Gaska-Cinch", which was recommended by an old racer/friend from the St, Louis area.? I started using it in about 1980, and for the next 17 years, never had a failure. More recently, I rebuilt the engine in my TR-3 (street car). and used a head gasket by Cometic.? They normally make head gaskets for? stock cars and drag racers, so I? was surprised that they would make one for a TR-3/4.? They might also make one for a TR-6.? It is a steel, multi-layer gasket, but it has worked fine.? Going on about 5 years now on a 10.5"1 compression TR-3/4 engine. For what it's worth, that's my experience. Jack On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:12 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sun Mar 1 19:13:57 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:13:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> Hi, Brian, My GT6 runs about 11.5:1 and I have always run a Payen head gasket - some kind of black composite sandwiched around steel or aluminum, with aluminum(?) fire rings. I?ve got a fairly high performance engine - 175 HP +/-. Standard Moss issue. Never had an issue in ten years. For the leak issue you have, I?ve found putting Permatex black around the perimeter of the pushrod area on the block and head (both sides of the gasket) solves the problem. There?s not as much clamping force over there, and mine always used to leak too. No more! Scott Janzen ?68 GT6 On Mar 1, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 19:31:57 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:31:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <3AABEB6D-B48C-40BB-9F9D-5F81D0651815@me.com> Message-ID: Same gasket here, always payen with fire ring, with my motor a little milder (understatement) than Scott's? On Sun, Mar 1, 2020, 9:14 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Hi, Brian, > My GT6 runs about 11.5:1 and I have always run a Payen head gasket - some > kind of black composite sandwiched around steel or aluminum, with > aluminum(?) fire rings. I?ve got a fairly high performance engine - 175 HP > +/-. > Standard Moss issue. Never had an issue in ten years. > For the leak issue you have, I?ve found putting Permatex black around the > perimeter of the pushrod area on the block and head (both sides of the > gasket) solves the problem. There?s not as much clamping force over there, > and mine always used to leak too. No more! > > Scott Janzen > ?68 GT6 > > On Mar 1, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot > wrote: > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak > at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before > this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck > height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Sun Mar 1 21:50:33 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:50:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column Message-ID: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> FOTs - does anyone have an unneeded adjustable TR3 steering column or know where I might find one? It helps my legroom. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Sun Mar 1 23:31:58 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (Geoff Byrne) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 17:31:58 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone > On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > ? Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 2 00:29:23 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 08:29:23 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian [ https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS | Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Mar 2 01:12:08 2020 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 09:12:08 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel _____ Van: "fot" > Aan: "Brian Dennis" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot > wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 2 04:03:52 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 06:03:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Eagle Gate bell housing References: <82C973C7-B579-49CD-870C-80A9A2B59E97.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <82C973C7-B579-49CD-870C-80A9A2B59E97@aol.com> Does anyone have for sale an Eagle Gate bell housing for the TR2-6 / Toyota W-58 transmission conversion? I have the HVDA conversion and the the Quartermaster concentric slave cylinder failed me twice at Sebring last weekend, and I want too use the stock slave and system with the Eagle Gate. If no Eagle Gate bell housing, any other ideas for a throwout bearing actuator? Phil Gott 508 414 0256 Sent from my iPhone From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 2 07:22:06 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 15:22:06 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <000c01d5f06a$452c7a00$cf856e00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <913767026.145513868.1583158926141.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Chris, I don't think so much about sex, but even then I'm right : what do you do with the "69" stand?! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 09:12:08 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel Van: "fot" < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > Aan: "Brian Dennis" < [ mailto:britracer89 at yahoo.com | britracer89 at yahoo.com ] > Cc: "fot" < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian [ https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS | Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 07:26:56 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 14:26:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv3671954296 #yiv3671954296 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3671954296 #yiv3671954296 p.yiv3671954296MsoNormal, #yiv3671954296 li.yiv3671954296MsoNormal, #yiv3671954296 div.yiv3671954296MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3671954296 a:link, #yiv3671954296 span.yiv3671954296MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3671954296 span.yiv3671954296E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3671954296 .yiv3671954296MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3671954296 div.yiv3671954296WordSection1 {}#yiv3671954296 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel ? Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.? Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks,? Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Mar 2 08:02:04 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 15:02:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> I knew it, Bill D would be the first to post a witty comeback!Good job Bill...Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 9:27 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv3192237190 -- filtered {} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 p.yiv3192237190MsoNormal, #yiv3192237190 li.yiv3192237190MsoNormal, #yiv3192237190 div.yiv3192237190MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv3192237190 a:link, #yiv3192237190 span.yiv3192237190MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3192237190 span.yiv3192237190E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv3192237190 .yiv3192237190MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} #yiv3192237190 filtered {} #yiv3192237190 div.yiv3192237190WordSection1 {} #yiv3192237190 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ?CheersChris ? ?Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?Geoff,Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise!Marcel ?Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the bestGeoff ByrneTR6 racer down underSent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 09:03:30 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 16:03:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> References: <608313716.2986928.1583159216769.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <608313716.2986928.1583159216769@mail.yahoo.com> <2030887299.119750.1583161324618@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1737311415.3032198.1583165010850@mail.yahoo.com> Glen... I'm old, but I'm not dead... Bill -----Original Message----- From: fubog1 To: billdentin ; fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 7:02 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I knew it, Bill D would be the first to post a witty comeback!Good job Bill...Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 2, 2020 9:27 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Don't go so fast, I'm writing this stuff down. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Chris Marx via Fot??wrote: #yiv9642021526 -- filtered {}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 p.yiv9642021526MsoNormal, #yiv9642021526 li.yiv9642021526MsoNormal, #yiv9642021526 div.yiv9642021526MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9642021526 a:link, #yiv9642021526 span.yiv9642021526MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9642021526 span.yiv9642021526E-MailFormatvorlage19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9642021526 .yiv9642021526MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv9642021526 filtered {}#yiv9642021526 div.yiv9642021526WordSection1 {}#yiv9642021526 If you regard the head of a woman as North Pole and the ?down under? as South Pole?.the terms are fixed. ?CheersChris ? ?Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 2. M?rz 2020 08:29 An: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?Geoff,Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise!Marcel ?Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? ?I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the bestGeoff ByrneTR6 racer down underSent from my iPhone ? On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 2 15:03:34 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 22:03:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. ;-) By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". c ya,Bob Lang On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 2 16:57:26 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 18:57:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear main seal leaks have stopped. The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). > > I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. > > ;-) > > By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. > > There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". > > c ya, > Bob Lang > > On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Mon Mar 2 21:03:51 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 20:03:51 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <1829184107.2356249.1583186614210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Lay some small diameter copper wire around the area you want to seal and th deal is over. I used Gasket Cinch to hold the wire in place on the head. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 3:57 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear > main seal leaks have stopped. > The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot > wrote: > > ? > Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of > pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get > less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). > > I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. > > ;-) > > By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the > fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts > oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting > pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. > > There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve > pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank > case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". > > c ya, > Bob Lang > > On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak > at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before > this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck > height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. > Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? > Thanks, > Brian > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 2 21:21:20 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 04:21:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? References: <1573023583.3445807.1583209280713.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1573023583.3445807.1583209280713@mail.yahoo.com> I am almost sure that Ken Gillanders?used to sell us gaskets?that had a grove pressed?in them for that copper wire. ?It worked slick.? Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Monday, March 2, 2020,?Kas Kastner via Fot??wrote: Lay some small diameter?copper wire around the?area you want to seal and th deal is over. I used Gasket Cinch to hold the wire in place on the?head. Never be beaten by equipment. On Mon, Mar 2, 2020 at 3:57 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Bob?s right. I have a 1? and a 1/2? vent on the valve cover, and my rear main seal leaks have stopped.The head still seeped, though, so i still vote for some permatex? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 2, 2020, at 5:03 PM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: ? Hi - My vote is for venting. Add more vents!!! Oil pushes out because of pressure in the block. Give the pressure somewhere to go and either you get less leaks or no more leaks (depending on the state of the engine). I think Kas covers this pretty well in one or more of the books. ;-) By way of example, I run two 1/2" vents in the valve cover and one via the fuel pump blanking plate, so three total. I also run PCV and a Goodparts oil separator. As long as I keep the revs under 6000, the oil getting pushed out seems to be very small indeed, maybe a few teaspoons per session. There's a common misconception about what gaskets do. They do not relieve pressure and that's why you're pushing oil. Get rid of the positive crank case pressure and "Bob's yter unKle". c ya,Bob Lang On Sunday, March 1, 2020, 6:30:03 PM EST, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block.??Current?Block is zero deck height and head?is cut to achieve the?12:1.?Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket?Thanks,?Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Tue Mar 3 01:03:31 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (geoff byrne) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 19:03:31 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Some of us Aussies rather like the fact we are ?down under? has a certain charm but in Aus if you are out passed the black stump you really are in hillbilly territory Regards Geoff From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be [mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be] Sent: Monday, March 2, 2020 6:29 PM To: Geoff Byrne Cc: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? Geoff, Down under? You have the same rights to pretend you are on the top of the earth as any other country. There is no physical law to prove otherwise! Marcel _____ Van: "fot" Aan: "Brian Dennis" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 2 maart 2020 07:31:58 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Six head gasket? I run very high compression in both my TR6 and GT6 race cars and have found the Lucas head gaskets are the best Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone On 2 Mar 2020, at 10:30 am, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: Any head gasket suggestions for gt6 12:1 motor. Have had chronic oil leak at pushrod side of head. Had same problem with two different heads before this one as well. With a different block. Current Block is zero deck height and head is cut to achieve the 12:1. Just wondering what others might be using for head gasket? Thanks, Brian Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Wed Mar 4 03:59:04 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 20:59:04 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. i hope this might assist someone Terry (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Wed Mar 4 06:23:45 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:23:45 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. Scott On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. i hope this might assist someone Terry (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 06:44:00 2020 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (James Palmer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:44:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F7168E5-E9AE-47A2-BCD9-0CE13EDA046A@yahoo.com> I think I found it on eBay, as long as it is WURTH 250, not WURT 250? I ordered a tube just in case, it was less than $15 delivered to the US from the UK. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 4, 2020, at 8:25 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 06:44:00 2020 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (James Palmer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 08:44:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F7168E5-E9AE-47A2-BCD9-0CE13EDA046A@yahoo.com> I think I found it on eBay, as long as it is WURTH 250, not WURT 250? I ordered a tube just in case, it was less than $15 delivered to the US from the UK. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 4, 2020, at 8:25 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 06:47:14 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 07:47:14 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by route jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some product for me. Bob Kramer On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but > not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. > > Scott > > On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have > tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., > with none of them totally fixing it > > unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly > there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we > do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head > does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the > pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst > and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big > issue to be solved as others have discussed > > long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest > improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race > 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! > > my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on > the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes > before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it > and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever > "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a > copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray > or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head > gasket, but some copper ones may benefit > > we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but > eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 > RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if > applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed > with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has > a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes > of it every week, so that was not an issue. > > i hope this might assist someone > > Terry > (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) > > >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 13:13:53 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 15:13:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: When I was looking I found Worth America and it pulled up red permatex I was going to start over tonight On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 8:46 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by route > jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some > product for me. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot > wrote: > >> interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but >> not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. >> >> Scott >> >> On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and have >> tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc etc., >> with none of them totally fixing it >> >> unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly >> there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we >> do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head >> does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the >> pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst >> and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big >> issue to be solved as others have discussed >> >> long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest >> improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race >> 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! >> >> my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on >> the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes >> before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it >> and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever >> "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a >> copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray >> or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head >> gasket, but some copper ones may benefit >> >> we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but >> eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 >> RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if >> applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed >> with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has >> a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes >> of it every week, so that was not an issue. >> >> i hope this might assist someone >> >> Terry >> (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) >> >> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jsukey at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 13:23:50 2020 From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 15:23:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Six head gasket? In-Reply-To: References: <206839917.4286667.1583105384768@mail.yahoo.com> <1519961930.143859475.1583134163424.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <015a01d5f132$3b26e040$b174a0c0$@optusnet.com.au> Message-ID: Do any of you guys have experience with the Lucas HD head gaskets that have the silicone bead around the edges? Jason Sukey On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 3:14 PM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > When I was looking I found Worth America and it pulled up red permatex > I was going to start over tonight > > On Wed, Mar 4, 2020, 8:46 AM Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > >> I think Wurth products are sold to direct to the industry channel by >> route jobbers. I used to get a buddy that owned a paint shop to buy some >> product for me. >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >> On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 7:25 AM Scott Janzen via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> interesting. A google search indicates this is available in Europe, but >>> not sold directly in the US. As such, it?s pretty expensive here. >>> >>> Scott >>> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 5:59 AM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >>> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>> like most racers, ive had my fair share of leaking triumph heads and >>> have tried copper rings, fancy gaskets, plain gaskets, magic goo etc >>> etc., with none of them totally fixing it >>> >>> unless the crankcase breather blocked, they never really leaked badly >>> there when new (some weeped), so its mostly a result of all the stuff we >>> do to them to make them go faster. certainly. facing 2-3mm off the head >>> does not help, as the edge gets very thin and the clamp force over by the >>> pushrods is not great on any of them, so its no wonder they leak at worst >>> and weep at best . Ive concluded crankcase pressure build up is a big >>> issue to be solved as others have discussed >>> >>> long ago, i changed to using multiple vents/breathers but the biggest >>> improvement was using WURT 250 sealant on every joint , and my last race >>> 2.5 is totally leak free, ie zero, not even a stain. BUT, no paper gaskets!! >>> >>> my "secret' is to follow WURT instructions and lay a tiny round bead on >>> the block edge near the pushrods and let it 'skin'...about 10-15 minutes >>> before fitting the head (just enough time for a cuppa). Do not finger it >>> and try to smooth it out. By all means , fit the head with whatever >>> "quality" gasket that your heart desires. For what its worth , i use a >>> copper gasket and just re-anneal it every time. ive never found any spray >>> or brush on sealant really works (or is needed) on a conventional head >>> gasket, but some copper ones may benefit >>> >>> we used this WURT 250 sealant in our engine shop for years and all-but >>> eliminated warranty claims for leaking gaskets. A version called WURT 250 >>> RED is great on triumph gearboxes, and overdrives, again, zero leaks if >>> applied correctly. For the very best result, every surface must be washed >>> with thinners or acetone, and not touched by hands etc thereafter. it has >>> a limited shelf life of about a few weeks once opened , but we used tubes >>> of it every week, so that was not an issue. >>> >>> i hope this might assist someone >>> >>> Terry >>> (down under, but not quite as far "down" as geoff Byrne) >>> >>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Wed Mar 4 19:30:36 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:30:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Wed Mar 4 19:34:17 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:34:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <158769871.82373.1583375657962@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Jay, SFI belts are 2 years, FIA are 5 years, and conveniently are 2.5x more expensive... Hope that helps! Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 9:30 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Mar 4 19:46:48 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:46:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. ?Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. ?One enters ten events a year for three years. ?The other guy races once. ?Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? ?I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Wednesday, March 4, 2020,?kkjjk--- via Fot??wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:13:48 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:13:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:13:48 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:13:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Wed Mar 4 20:19:43 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 03:19:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> Message-ID: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott To: kkjjk Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at seiri.com Wed Mar 4 21:23:49 2020 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 23:23:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > ? > Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Phil Gott > To: kkjjk > Cc: fot > Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts > > If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. > Phil Gott > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Wed Mar 4 21:28:43 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 23:28:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column In-Reply-To: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> References: <007901d5f04e$3a1afc20$ae50f460$@cox.net> Message-ID: <01ab01d5f2a6$91a06ac0$b4e14040$@cox.net> I apologize for bothering everyone again, but can someone tell me what is the difference in the adjustable and non-adjustable TR3 steering columns? It's hard to tell from the parts manual. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 From: Fot On Behalf Of Henry Giffin via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020 11:51 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR3 adjustable steering column FOTs - does anyone have an unneeded adjustable TR3 steering column or know where I might find one? It helps my legroom. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Mar 4 23:36:37 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 22:36:37 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Couldn't find anything specific at SVRA's site. Our group, VARA requires rewebbing at 5 years from date of manufacture. Crow Enterprises is courteous enough to offer a rewebbing service without replacing the hardware on their belt systems. Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 6:30 PM kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have > read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I > just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June > 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be > "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are > over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Mar 5 04:32:55 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:32:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A2BB058-830A-408C-A4FD-DD4FB5F08C1A@aol.com> Thank you Robert! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 11:23 PM, robert bownes wrote: > > ? > My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). > > I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! > > By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > > > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Phil Gott >> To: kkjjk >> Cc: fot >> Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts >> >> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. >> Phil Gott >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Mar 5 04:32:55 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:32:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A2BB058-830A-408C-A4FD-DD4FB5F08C1A@aol.com> Thank you Robert! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 4, 2020, at 11:23 PM, robert bownes wrote: > > ? > My dad?s Fisher Body Ltd factory (outside Belfast, N. Ireland) made seat belts for Opel and Vauxhall (and Holden iirc). > > I got to see firsthand the crash test dummy in the sled in the testing department. They were mostly testing mechanisms, but they also tested the UV effect on batches of webbing. Let us just say, despite my cheap nature, I have never, ever, been tempted to push the dates on seatbelts. At 5 years exposure, the extra stretch was about 25%, which was enough to hit a steering wheel. After that, it fell off dramatically. At 10 years, they were pretty much useless, the dummy was in the safety net. And this met regulations at the time! > > By the way, the safety net had to be replaced regularly too. The dent in the cinder block wall spoke volumes. :) > > > >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 22:19, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> Understood, Phil, thanks!- Jay >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Phil Gott >> To: kkjjk >> Cc: fot >> Sent: Wed, Mar 4, 2020 10:13 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts >> >> If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire. >> Phil Gott >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 5 06:40:56 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 06:40:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <2026493164.607272.1583378383903@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Back in my climbing days when I had my sewing business, I was interested in how nylon ropes and webbing deteriorated.? The number 1 killer was UV light.? And climbing gear, aat least when being used and not gathering dust in the basement, gets a LOT of exposure to sunlight.? The second major cause of wear was abrasion.? Obviously having a climbing rope slide over a rough edge is bad for it, but the less obvious and more common case is gritty dust particles getting trapped in the weave, causing a little bit of abrasion every time it moves. Luckily, though, it is always cloudy and raining at racetracks, so seat belts never see sunshine, and there is never any dust blowing around that can settle on the webbing as the cars sit in the paddock. mjb. From quikrx at yahoo.com Thu Mar 5 07:11:40 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:11:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> Message-ID: <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Thu Mar 5 07:15:49 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:15:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> I forgot to mention, I have access to racing belts from a few suppliers - I'll get the list together later and repost what I can get, save you all some $$ if I can RalphApex2Apex Motorsportsapex2apexmotorsports at yahoo.com847 840 7366 On Thursday, March 5, 2020, 08:12:00 AM CST, ralph hansen via Fot wrote: MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Thu Mar 5 07:44:50 2020 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 14:44:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks to all for your responses.? Robert and Mark, those are very interesting stories! -----Original Message----- From: ralph hansen via Fot Cc: fot Sent: Thu, Mar 5, 2020 9:15 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts I forgot to mention, I have access to racing belts from a few suppliers - I'll get the list together later and repost what I can get, save you all some $$ if I can RalphApex2Apex Motorsportsapex2apexmotorsports at yahoo.com847 840 7366 On Thursday, March 5, 2020, 08:12:00 AM CST, ralph hansen via Fot wrote: MCSCC (Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs) effective this year is SFI belts 2 yrs from date of manufacture, FIA is five years, both rounded to 12/31/?? so belts are not an issue middle of the year - newer belts with expiration dates will also expire on 12/31/?? of the listed expiration year - belts are cheap, they do lose effectiveness as they age, even if not exposed to direct sunlight On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, 09:14:28 PM CST, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: If your belts are certified by SFI they will be good for 2 years from the date of manufacture. If they carry an FIA certification, they will be accepted for 5 years from the date of manufacture. SVRA enforces the dates to the month. SCCA will cut you some slack and let you go to the end of the calendar year in which they expire.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 4, 2020, at 9:31 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: ?Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Thu Mar 5 08:13:36 2020 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 15:13:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Looking for a particular fellow GT6 enthusiast In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi fellow FOT members, I am looking for a chap I was in touch with by phone this past summer regarding teaming up on building a rear axle conversion for our Rotoflex cars. I?m hoping you are on this list and will please respond to my personal email address. I?m in Ontario and as I recall you were in the US just south of me about 6 hours or so. Vince Garrett vangoughv at hotmail.com ________________________________ This message is being sent on behalf of the Simcoe County District School Board and/or your child?s school in compliance with the Canadian Anti-Spam Legislation. Questions regarding this electronic communication may be referred to: CASL, Simcoe County District School Board, 1170 Highway 26, Midhurst, Ontario, L9X 1N6. ________________________________ You may unsubscribe from receiving these messages by FORWARDING this email to "unsubscribe at scdsb.on.ca". ________________________________ This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for the use of the addressee(s) and may contain information that is privileged or confidential and protected under the Education Act and the Municipal Freedom of Information and Protection of Privacy Act. If you are not the intended recipient, or responsible for delivering the information to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, printing or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If this e-mail and any attachments were received in error, please notify the sender by reply e-mail and delete the original message. Please consider the environment before printing this email or attachments. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Mar 5 12:05:56 2020 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:05:56 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Thu Mar 5 12:17:02 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 13:17:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf until I find a use for them. That last part is s struggle. Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: > Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that > died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? > > I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? > > I also know I already lost this argument. > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > Sent from Outlook > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via > Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM > *To:* fot at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Seat belts > > Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each > buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a > year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves > should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need > to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. > > Bill Dentinger > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > > On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have > read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I > just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June > 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be > "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are > over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Thu Mar 5 12:21:29 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:21:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> I have tons also from SCCA? racing.....if someone can use, lemme know. In a message dated 3/5/2020 2:16:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what?organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf?until I find a use for them.? That last part is s struggle.? Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date?? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion.? Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date.? One enters ten events a year for three years.? The other guy races once.? Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date?? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Wednesday, March 4, 2020,?kkjjk--- via Fot??wrote: Hello FOT-? Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for?? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup.? I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022.? I thought that belts were good for 5 years? ? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years?? My present belts are over 5 years old.? Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Mar 5 13:28:49 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 06:28:49 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1708115704.591162.1583375436095@mail.yahoo.com> <279EA31F-7770-4F07-A752-D22EC5603361@aol.com> <1154237393.183462.1583417500478@mail.yahoo.com> <1856996573.225411.1583417749774@mail.yahoo.com> <1806212410.778321.1583419439668@mail.yahoo.com> <937809585.807272.1583419490100@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: it may not be relevant to you guys in the USA, buts its worth mentioning that our local FIA 'agent", Motorsport Australia , commissioned research & testing into race seat belt life a few years ago. As a result, they have extended the life of "notional" 5 year FIA approved belts to 10 years, provided they have zero visual damage which includes extreme sun fading. They however ratified the 2-year life on SFI approved belts. I have asked for a copy of the technical report to support their conclusion and will post up a link or a copy when possible. Most people i race with use FIA approved belts. Mostly, we all tend to avoid SFI rated material as it has a very short approval life and almost the same cost (here) as FIA approved stuff. The latest FIA standards require dynamic sled testing of harnesses and components to 70g, which they claim comes from accident data and is survivable in modern race cars. My reading suggests the SFI testing does not include dynamic testing, simply stating maximum static failure forces, but i'll happily be contradicted. I would also comment that nearly everyone here has changed their belts over the past few years with the use of HANS devices which mostly require a 2" or narrower section in the over-shoulder belt . Nearly every race and rally 'speed" event here, now mandates HANS devices of some 'approved" form. The harness anchor locations have also come in for a lot more attention recently, especially as the shoulder harness angles are critical for most versions of the HANS device to work as intended. The use of the "crotch strap" has also come into focus and particularly how it is mounted. research has shown that if there is only a single crotch strap, it must be vertical or near vertical to work successfully, Anchors placed half-way under the seat so the strap runs backwards, are frowned upon and i know of a couple of technical scrutineers (inspectors) that have warned racers to fix that before their next event. There is a really good set of videos and articles on the SCHROTH web site for anyone interested. i'm not promoting any brand or system or rule. this is FYI only Terry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Thu Mar 5 17:50:04 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 19:50:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tee shirt order procedure - clarification Message-ID: Folks, While I have entered orders as I receive them via email, the preferred method is to go to FoT Tee Shirt order sheet and self-enter your order. That reduces the chances of errors, and has worked well for the 29 folks who have used it. Keep those orders coming! Thank you jim -- W4BEA The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily entertained is totally the way to go! ;-) J. Stoll -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Thu Mar 5 18:53:22 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (Henry Giffin) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 20:53:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Seat belts In-Reply-To: <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> References: <146517501.4674010.1583376408482.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <146517501.4674010.1583376408482@mail.yahoo.com> <552628349.951987.1583436089716@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02d001d5f35a$0679f600$136de200$@cox.net> I too have dozens of old belts in boxes in which the new ones arrived. A veterans support group collected them at the VRG Turkey Bowl for many years, but stopped a few years ago. I think they were using them for wounded veterans vehicles. Perhaps someone knows if there is still a program. Thanks, Hank Hank Giffin 757-375-1491 From: Fot On Behalf Of Rick Kristoff via Fot Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 2:21 PM To: rkramer56 at gmail.com; dos_gusanos at msn.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts I have tons also from SCCA racing.....if someone can use, lemme know. In a message dated 3/5/2020 2:16:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: I have multiple boxes of old seat belts. I am some what organized. I roll up the old ones to fit back in the box the new ones came in, and then I can neatly store them on e shelf until I find a use for them. That last part is s struggle. Bob Kramer On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 1:06 PM Henry A. Morrison via Fot > wrote: Is there a graveyard somewhere I need to visit full of all the guys that died cuz their seatbelts were a year out of date? A month? I know every body replaces them every 2 years in their street cars? Right? I also know I already lost this argument. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook _____ From: Fot > on behalf of Bill Dentinger via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 7:46 PM To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Seat belts Those 'date rules' always gave me indigestion. Consider...two racer each buy an identical pair of gloves on the same date. One enters ten events a year for three years. The other guy races once. Do you think their gloves should both expire on the same date? I don't, but I understand they need to draw lines to avoid arguments in Tech. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, March 4, 2020, kkjjk--- via Fot > wrote: Hello FOT- Does anyone know how long seat belts are good for? I have read here on FOT that SVRA will be checking belts at the Kastner Cup. I just got new belts from Summit Racing, and the tag says they expire June 2022. I thought that belts were good for 5 years? Could these belts be "old"(as in NOS) or are they only good for 2 years? My present belts are over 5 years old. Yikes!-- Jay _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 9 13:00:17 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 12:00:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 1147/1300 Small Journal Rods Message-ID: Hello Amici, Carrillo is apparently no longer making 1300 small journal rods. Does anyone have a set of them or perhaps Pauter's they may be willing to part with? Thanks, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at web9.com Mon Mar 9 13:05:46 2020 From: bownes at web9.com (robert bownes) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 04:05:46 +0900 Subject: [Fot] 1147/1300 Small Journal Rods In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brad, I have 3. They are, however, having come from my string of exploding 1147's, all U shaped. ;) Bob On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 4:00 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Hello Amici, > > Carrillo is apparently no longer making 1300 small journal rods. Does > anyone have a set of them or perhaps Pauter's they may be willing to part > with? > > Thanks, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agb at compsnw.com Mon Mar 9 18:23:40 2020 From: agb at compsnw.com (Alec Buchan) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 17:23:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hauling help from Boise to Seattle Message-ID: <4de8be87-8910-0719-e657-fe7cd9e4d571@compsnw.com> Wondering if anybody will be traveling from the Twin Falls/Boise ID area to the greater Seattle/Tacoma (or further north) area with an empty trailer? I've got a Triumph Herald sitting in a garage in Twin Falls and a pair of seats in Boise looking to travel home. If so, please drop me a note. Thanks much! Alec Buchan Bellingham, WA 1962 Triumph TR4 SOVREN #5 EP From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 08:01:31 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 14:01:31 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Clutch Disc Message-ID: <24f4e79f1661404f814acc15dee47138@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey membership, found one more brand new Tilton or Quartermaster 7.25" friction disc with the small (7/8" I think) Spitfire 10 spline input shaft hub. Brand new need it gone. They are like 120.00 from Tilton and Quartermaster. I can ship it to the 48 states for a total of 90.00 if you think that is fair. Let me know. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 09:00:50 2020 From: jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com (Jonathan Wright) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:00:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings Message-ID: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... Thanks! Jonathan Wright -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Mar 10 09:20:17 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 11:20:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... Thanks! Jonathan Wright _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 10 10:17:25 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:17:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased. On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control arm Bushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil. We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 10 10:17:25 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:17:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased. On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control arm Bushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil. We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Tue Mar 10 10:23:40 2020 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 16:23:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> References: <42122ADA-3294-45F9-9FA7-2A4D55F61A5E@aol.com> Message-ID: <1963718748.1784664.1583857420456@mail.yahoo.com> I ran solid on my Spit - poly are good and much better than rubber but, solid is best for turn-in, stability and consistency at the limit Ralph On Tuesday, March 10, 2020, 11:18:07 AM CDT, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: On my TR4A I run the stock set up at the trunnion. For the lower control arm inner pivots I use the factory Nylon/Delrin bushings for a TR3 lower inner control arm bushings. I install grease fittings on the a arm and keep these greased.?On the upper inner control arm I also use the same TR3B lower inner control armBushings. They replace the rubber inserts perfectly. I keep them well liubed with oil.?We also did a TR6 this way. Works very well and quite robust.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:20 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: ? In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. ?I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. ?I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: Hello FOT, I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him...? Thanks!Jonathan Wright_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/quikrx at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 10:24:54 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 16:24:54 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Clutch Disc In-Reply-To: References: <24f4e79f1661404f814acc15dee47138@dieselperformanceparts.com> Message-ID: <2ec79fcae20e46f6ac6d4379344b9302@dieselperformanceparts.com> I don?t know it is designed for the tilt on or quartermaster clutches. I think it will be too thin for a stock pressure plate. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Mike Harmuth [mailto:ofracer at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 10:45 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Disc Hi Mark, if it will work with a stock pressure plate, I'll take it. PayPal OK? mike harmuth On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 10:01 AM DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot > wrote: Hey membership, found one more brand new Tilton or Quartermaster 7.25? friction disc with the small (7/8? I think) Spitfire 10 spline input shaft hub. Brand new need it gone. They are like 120.00 from Tilton and Quartermaster. I can ship it to the 48 states for a total of 90.00 if you think that is fair. Let me know. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From bschirano1 at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 10:34:58 2020 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:34:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I ran this same question by FOT a month or two ago for my GT6. I wanted Delrin or Nylatron but these were impossible to find. Ted S suggested buying the Delrin and machining myself, but I didn't. In the end I ordered poly bushings from SuperPro USA. You can get an absolutely complete front suspension rebuild kit from the Roadster Factory which is has the black poly bushes that Scott describes. Best Brian On Tue, Mar 10, 2020 at 11:01 AM Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A > little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion > this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright > assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn > suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from > "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to > "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need > delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar > driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, > what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with > where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had > any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the > bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm > not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind > enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which > locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula > VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track > taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > -- Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 10 11:11:38 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 17:11:38 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? Message-ID: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey trying to get ready for VIR in April and I am in need of a steel flywheel for a Spitfire 1296 engine. Tilton I think used to make them and then Quartermaster did too. Both of them have stopped. So hopefully someone has a new spare they don't need any more that I can buy. I use either a Quartermaster or Tilton 7.25" Clutch. Talk to me racers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 13:51:59 2020 From: jon.wright.lbc at gmail.com (Jonathan Wright) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 12:51:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <043FDB2E-1244-4633-AA4B-10C7851F2BF0@gmail.com> Orders the set from Scott Harper at team triumph, he said he thinks they are delrin but he isn?t sure. I?ll take Scott Janzens word that they work well enough for him should be better than what I have. Thanks for the help guys Jon Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:20 AM, Scott Janzen wrote: > > ?In my GT6 I run the bushings with steel inserts I got from Scott Harper at Team Triumph. I don?t know what they are - black hard plastic with steel inserts - but they?ve been on the car for at least eight years with no signs of play and 5-6 race weekends a year. I take things apart very regularly to inspect - these have worked well. > > On Mar 10, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Tue Mar 10 14:28:03 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 13:28:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <24D36BB5-1E6E-4235-BEAA-692F06BF99AA@gmail.com> Hi Jonathan, A bit of a wild weekend for some of us at Willow Springs. My front bushings are solid. Comprised of a bronze Oilite bushing with an inner steel sleeve running on an AN bolt. The ends are capped with 3 steel backed, dimpled brass washers. I replaced the washers and the bolts in the rebuild. The washers were difficult to find and were sourced from England. I assume this was the hot set up in 1969/70 when the car was originally built. They may be described in Kas?s Comp Prep manual. I think I have some photos at home... Did you confirm GT6 or Spitfire bits up front? Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:01 AM, Jonathan Wright via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hello FOT, > > I am looking for recommendations on suspension bushings for my racecar. A little Formula VEE spun into me and took out my front right upright/trunion this weekend at willow springs, so while I'm replacing the upright assembly, I figured it would be a good time to replace the old worn suspension bushings. I have been told a number of different opinions from "poly bushings would be an improvement over your old worn out bushings" to "nylon is the only way to go" to "poly and nylon are terrible you need delrin bushings." So in my lack of experience as a vintage triumph racecar driver, I'm asking you seasoned vets your opinions on the matter and why, what you are currently running, and if you could please provide me with where I can source the bushings you recommend. Up until now, I haven't had any complaints with the handling characteristics of the car, but I know the bushings are ready for replacement. I haven't taken them out yet, so I'm not sure what is currently in there. Additionally, if you would be kind enough to spell it out for me what type of bushings you run in which locations I would appreciate it. > > Kas's catch phrase is "never be beaten by equipment" but that Formula VEE's equipment beat me up pretty good as it was spinning across the track taking me out with him... > > Thanks! > Jonathan Wright > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 12 06:35:23 2020 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 12:35:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? In-Reply-To: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> References: <53a4bc903d2449a79a3553276a2b8200@dieselperformanceparts.com> Message-ID: <3ab9edadd7fb4192a2e824985d2b0c24@dieselperformanceparts.com> Steel 7.25" Flywheels?? Hey trying to get ready for VIR in April and I am in need of a steel flywheel for a Spitfire 1296 engine. Tilton I think used to make them and then Quartermaster did too. Both of them have stopped. So hopefully someone has a new spare they don't need any more that I can buy. I use either a Quartermaster or Tilton 7.25" Clutch. Talk to me racers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 20743 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image007.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image007.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image008.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image008.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image009.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image009.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image010.jpg URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Mar 13 19:45:54 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 01:45:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Special tools... References: <1532120727.3093917.1584150354598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1532120727.3093917.1584150354598@mail.yahoo.com> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Friday, March 13, 2020,?FOT at aol.com??wrote: Amici... I guess all of us have special tools that we've had for a long time. ?Bench plates,?engine hoist, or whatever. ?For me it's a ball pein hammer. ?Seems like I've had it forever. ?I've replaced the head three times, and the handle eight times, but I've had that dam hammer forever. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Mar 14 06:18:37 2020 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 08:18:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races Message-ID: Lots of mechanical issues during the event. Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. mike h [image: P1015323.JPG] [image: P1015333.JPG] [image: P1015358.JPG] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015323.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2401158 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015333.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2295394 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1015358.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2690096 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Mar 14 08:21:04 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 10:21:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Mike... At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten by equipment...)! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Lots of mechanical issues during the event. > Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. > > mike h > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From vfracing at aol.com Sat Mar 14 08:21:04 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 10:21:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Mike... At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten by equipment...)! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Lots of mechanical issues during the event. > Sorry Kas, they were beaten by equipment. > > mike h > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sun Mar 15 04:38:33 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 06:38:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] NOS G-3 cam for sale, lots of other period go-fast bits as well Message-ID: <03f2798090488d3a82b34130de2b92ea@tr4racer.com> An old friend reached out to me a couple months ago, he raced a TR3 back in the day and messed around with Triumphs ever since. He got notice his landlord was selling the building he has been in for 50 years, so he got busy selling stuff. There is a bunch of TR3-4 go-fast bits looking for new race cars. A couple of prepped heads. One of Kastner's original G-3 cams, NOS, never in an engine. Several used ring and pinion sets, various ratios. Several Detroit Locker differentials, one TR3 rear axle set up with a Detroit Locker and a 4.55 R&P (stock axle shafts). An original finned aluminum sump. Etc... I'm planning on running the usual suspects this Spring, plus the Kastner Cup at M-O in June, happy to deliver any heavy bits if needed. Reply off list, just trying to help find new homes for these period goodies. Henry in CT From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sun Mar 15 04:43:58 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 06:43:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As long as we keep seeing John Hasty, our resident octogenarian, in the drivers seat, that's win for everybody! On 2020-03-14 10:21, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks, Mike... > At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met > other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten > by equipment...)! > Phil From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 15 05:41:57 2020 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 07:41:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Amen to that -----Original Message----- From: yellow04 via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2020 6:43 AM To: Phil Gott Cc: FoTTriumph Subject: Re: [Fot] FOTers Spotted at Sebring Vintage races As long as we keep seeing John Hasty, our resident octogenarian, in the drivers seat, that's win for everybody! On 2020-03-14 10:21, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks, Mike... > At the end of the day, a good time was had by all, and we even met > other FOTers, Tech Ispector Dan and competitor John Hasty (also beaten > by equipment...)! > Phil _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 16 15:29:20 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 21:29:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] VIR Message-ID: In view of the VA Gov's ban of all events of 100 or more yesterday, what is the status of the VIR event???? [cid:image001.png at 01D5FBB8.6C55BC50] John H. Hasty Attorney at Law Mullen Holland & Cooper P.A. 301 S. York St., P.O. Box 488 Gastonia, NC 28053 704.864.6751 (p) 704.861.8394 (f) mhc-law.com | jhasty at mhc-law.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 12907 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 11:54:49 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 17:54:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 4msonset at gmail.com Sat Mar 21 12:35:13 2020 From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 11:35:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My experience was spilling ink on my dad?s front seat back in the 90?s.... rather than fessing up... I cleaned the area with acetone, lightly sanded the area, mixed matching paint from aw simple acrylic art set, and airbrushed the front seat. It was as good as new and lasted for the decade the car remained with the family. That said... i was curious and did some googling. I found this company. I watched one of their videos. Looks like they know their business. ?Justin https://www.leathertouchupdye.com/ > On Mar 21, 2020, at 10:54 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > > Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sat Mar 21 12:38:05 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 18:38:05 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <84E3E211-74A2-4CFE-974B-E5BC6D3A0938@mhc-law.com> I understand Connely (sp like the leather used in Ferrari?s) is very good. Check it out on Google... Sent from my iPhone On Mar 21, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: ? Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 13:10:17 2020 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 19:10:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <668134238.226616.1584817817310@mail.yahoo.com> Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sat Mar 21 14:20:43 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 20:20:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <654191747.244169.1584822043211.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> GROIT'S GARAGE is a great source for anyone into 'detailing' cars. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, March 21, 2020,?Ken Suhre via Fot??wrote: Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 15:54:05 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 21:54:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> References: <654191747.244169.1584822043211.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <654191747.244169.1584822043211@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2015771122.181862.1584827645223@mail.yahoo.com> I?ve been restoring a Momo wheel?s sundried leather with Neatsfoot oil from Tractor Supply. ? Normally used to condition leather saddles; it seems to be working very well!! Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 4:29 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: GROIT'S GARAGE is a great source for anyone into 'detailing' cars. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, March 21, 2020,?Ken Suhre via Fot??wrote: Groit's Garage has a cleans and preserves leather care spray that may be what you are looking for.? On Saturday, March 21, 2020, 12:58:06 PM CDT, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hankgiffin at cox.net Sat Mar 21 16:42:48 2020 From: hankgiffin at cox.net (hankgiffin) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 18:42:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jack, I used Leatherique on my 65 Morgan abt 2 years ago and Claussens kit on MY 38 MGVA a while ago (I think they went out of business but the same products as Leatherique).? Order extra conditioner.? It is amazing.? Just keep soaking the leather.? It softens cardboard-like leather.? You won't believe how nice it comes out.? ? ?I've tried a bunch of other leather treatments.? Most are made for modern cars, not 50 year old dried out seats.? ? ? ?Take care, HankSent via the Samsung Galaxy Note8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Jack Wheeler via Fot Date: 3/21/20 13:58 (GMT-05:00) To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks.Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 17:37:25 2020 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 23:37:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Thanks References: <1856317645.323334.1584833845910.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1856317645.323334.1584833845910@mail.yahoo.com> The response to my request for leather repair has been overwhelming.? Now I have lots of leads to follow.? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjohns at woh.rr.com Sat Mar 21 17:39:56 2020 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 19:39:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 103, Issue 79. Leather conditioning. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <77A9F49C-AC2E-4876-98AD-FFD06EBB102D@woh.rr.com> Jack, neatfoot oil on the boot. It will leave the surface a bit oily temporarily if used on the seats but will dry up. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 21, 2020, at 2:00 PM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Fot mailing list submissions to > fot at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > fot-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > fot-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Leather Conditioning (Jack Wheeler) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 17:54:49 +0000 (UTC) > From: Jack Wheeler > To: FOT List > Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning > Message-ID: <307310677.207120.1584813289882 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. > Jack > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Fot Digest, Vol 103, Issue 79 > ************************************ From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Mar 22 07:12:56 2020 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 13:12:56 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> References: <307310677.207120.1584813289882.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <307310677.207120.1584813289882@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months. Available almost everywhere. Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard. Specifically, the shift boot and the seats. I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel. Anyone have any experience? Thanks. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Mar 22 08:28:08 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 14:28:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning References: <367746558.137674.1584887288144.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> Hooray for Petrolium Jelly! ?Who remembers the erotic WHITE ROSE radio commercials in the 1950s? "Use it in the morning...use it at night...use WHITE ROSE Petrolium?Jelly." Catchy tune, everyone was singing. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, March 22, 2020,?Henry A. Morrison via Fot??wrote: #yiv0773956919 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months.? Available almost everywhere.? Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning?Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Sun Mar 22 10:03:50 2020 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 16:03:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning In-Reply-To: <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> References: <367746558.137674.1584887288144.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <367746558.137674.1584887288144@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <370172092.184714.1584893030675@mail.yahoo.com> I was probably singing You Ain't Nuthin But a Houndog. On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 09:36:04 AM CDT, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Hooray for Petrolium Jelly! ?Who remembers the erotic WHITE ROSE radio commercials in the 1950s? "Use it in the morning...use it at night...use WHITE ROSE Petrolium?Jelly." Catchy tune, everyone was singing. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, March 22, 2020,?Henry A. Morrison via Fot??wrote: There is a great product that I use on the leather on my old Army helmets, that is agreed on by most collectors to be the best leather treatment and I rub it into my leather seats every couple of months.? Available almost everywhere.? Vaseline. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook From: Fot on behalf of Jack Wheeler via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:54 AM To: FOT List Subject: [Fot] Leather Conditioning?Does anyone out there have a good recommendation for a product to use for restoring old leather?? I recently purchased a 50+ year old car, and while the leather appears to be in good shape, when you touch it, it feels like cardboard.? Specifically, the shift boot and the seats.? I'm looking for a product that will bring back the soft leather feel.? Anyone have any experience?? Thanks. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kenandtweety at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Mar 22 13:05:52 2020 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 19:05:52 +0000 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update Message-ID: Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sun Mar 22 16:45:46 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 08:45:46 +1000 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans Terry On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: > Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a > Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This > update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered > a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are > changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of > anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what > is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our > friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends > making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard > decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the > event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully > things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and > comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. > > > > Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. > > > > Marty Sukey > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Sun Mar 22 21:33:14 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 20:33:14 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Message-ID: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! [image: IMG_8745.jpg] Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8745.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 390239 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sun Mar 22 21:58:11 2020 From: fmccjr at aol.com (fmccjr at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 23:58:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY (It?s about all I can do?) > On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans > > Terry > > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >> >> >> >> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >> >> >> >> Marty Sukey >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sun Mar 22 21:58:11 2020 From: fmccjr at aol.com (fmccjr at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 23:58:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY (It?s about all I can do?) > On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans > > Terry > > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >> >> >> >> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >> >> >> >> Marty Sukey >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sun Mar 22 21:59:18 2020 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2020 22:59:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] March 2020 Kastner Cup Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <17FA7C7D-4ABE-436A-9DEA-93A30F0AEA90@gmail.com> ?? Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 22, 2020, at 10:58 PM, fmccjr--- via Fot wrote: > > ?Here in the Mid Hudson Valley, I?m keeping the faith! > > Rick McCurdy > Newburgh, NY > > (It?s about all I can do?) > >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >> >> thanks for the update Marty, sadly, our flights from Australia to USA at the d of may have been cancelled, so several of us have to cancel all our visit/holiday plans >> >> Terry >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 5:07 AM marty sukey via Fot wrote: >>> Greetings fellow racers. I thought this would be a good time to issue a Kastner Cup update based on the current circumstances in the world. This update is for as things sit presently. The Kastner Cup is still considered a go by the Kastner Cup committee, SVRA, and Mid-Ohio. Naturally things are changing on an almost daily basis. I will update the group if I hear of anything changing. Things have and will continue to evolve due to what is going on in the world. I suspect that it will be very difficult for our friends across the pond to attend now. I also suspect that our friends making the long tow from across the country will have to make some hard decisions regarding attending. So, the team will keep on planning the event. The event might be a little different than past events but hopefully things will start settling down by the end of June and the race and comradery will give us a good break from the current situation. >>> >>> >>> >>> Stay safe, stay well and get those race cars ready. >>> >>> >>> >>> Marty Sukey >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 05:30:37 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 12:30:37 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" Aan: "van mulders marcel" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200323_121841.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2655945 bytes Desc: not available URL: From atr6racer at hotmail.com Mon Mar 23 08:14:34 2020 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:14:34 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR6/GT6 Quarter Master flywheel set up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To all TR6/GT6 racers out there, I have used a QM 7 pound steel flywheel and 7.25" clutch pictured in the attachment for the past 25 years with no failures. I have purchased 10 of these flywheels over that period, mostly due to minimum order of 5 flywheels per order as these are custom just for the Triumph six cylinder. This is for the short butt/late model crankshaft only. It has the ring gear actually cut into the flywheel itself, which is made from a high alloy steel. Clutch disc run around $60 each, and they can do any center spline you want. As for release bearings I use a GT6 throw out bearing on my Jerico gearbox due to the smaller diameter as it fits the fingers of the pressure plate perfectly. You can use the stock TR6 release bearing but the amount of force needed to disengage is really way to much for your leg! I also us the annular style release bearings and find that set up very easy to operate and maintain. I do not need 5 flywheels, so I'm looking for at least 4 other Racers out in FOT land that might want one of these flywheels. I already have one spot filled but the more the merrier. I have never had a failure with this set up and the only thing I do different is order the flywheel with double dowels, I keep the standard 4 bolt 7/16" bolts. All I do is replace the disc every 3 or 4 events, depending on how much paddock driving I have to do as that is tougher on the disc than actual racing, especially after coming off the track hot with a 1.70 first gear! No hurry, Quarter Master is now shutdown due to this pandemic, so this effort has plenty of time to get together. Last order I did the cost was around $550 for each flywheel. You can only use QM pressure plate with this flywheel as Tilton pressure plates are different. If you are interested of have any questions let me know. Sam Halkias -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0789.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2249286 bytes Desc: IMG_0789.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0788.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2378922 bytes Desc: IMG_0788.JPG URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Mon Mar 23 08:29:19 2020 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:29:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com>, <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot > wrote: This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel ________________________________ Van: "trbelgium1" > Aan: "van mulders marcel" > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. <20200323_121841.jpg> _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 23 09:30:49 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 09:30:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 09:45:43 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 16:45:43 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <1520342913.240493038.1584978343114.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Looking at the curve,.018 or a bit more, on the inlet valve, seems about right. On tildentechnologies.com .026" is recommended, but with that much valve lash, it seems that the valve is beginning to open when the cam follower is already at the beginning of the flank. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 15:29:19 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" < [ mailto:trbelgium1 at gmail.com | trbelgium1 at gmail.com ] > Aan: "van mulders marcel" < [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. BQ_BEGIN <20200323_121841.jpg> BQ_END BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 10:35:41 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 09:35:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. Apparently not... *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the > original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but > I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a > round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 > race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result > would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I > checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the > the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains > might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them > match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances > that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully > made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days > staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would > be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for > rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V > Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, > I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if > need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving > on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved > each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines > during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very > successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Mar 23 11:32:41 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 18:32:41 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht In-Reply-To: <07b1d65a-6149-d9a5-48df-65e5c733c172@pobox.com> References: <5e789ba0.1c69fb81.56041.0397@mx.google.com> <631955331.239424963.1584963037540.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <1520342913.240493038.1584978343114.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <07b1d65a-6149-d9a5-48df-65e5c733c172@pobox.com> Message-ID: <1182688158.241016524.1584984761089.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Larry, It is your webpage that made me make this curve to find the right valve lash. Do you agree that 0.026" is too much? Marcel Van: "Larry Young" Aan: "van mulders marcel" Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 18:06:13 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Marcel, The 0.026 on my website is the value that is usually recommended by BFE. I have a webpage that describes how it "should" be determined - [ http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tip_Lash.html | http://tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tip_Lash.html ] . This may give a smaller number than what is recommended. The procedure will avoid the "tuning fork" problem we discussed earlier. - Larry On 3/23/2020 10:45 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot wrote: Looking at the curve,.018 or a bit more, on the inlet valve, seems about right. On tildentechnologies.com .026" is recommended, but with that much valve lash, it seems that the valve is beginning to open when the cam follower is already at the beginning of the flank. Marcel Van: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Aan: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 15:29:19 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Fwd: Bfe24 camshaht Hi Marcel - I run this cam in a lot of engines I build . 0.018 and 0.020 normal. You can also try 16/18 . Regards Tony Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 4:54 AM, van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN This is tappet lift vs. crankshaft degrees (degrees before maximum valve lift) of a BFE 24 camshaft mounted in an engine. I wonder how much tappet or valve clearance (1.55 rocker ratio) one would recommend? I asked some people and searched the web : 0.020 to 0.026"/0.50 to 0.65mm is recommended. Marcel Van: "trbelgium1" < [ mailto:trbelgium1 at gmail.com | trbelgium1 at gmail.com ] > Aan: "van mulders marcel" < [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] > Verzonden: Maandag 23 maart 2020 12:21:00 Onderwerp: Bfe24 camshaht Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. BQ_BEGIN <20200323_121841.jpg> BQ_END BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com ] BQ_END -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 13:21:24 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 14:21:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. Bob Kramer On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, > like resizing rods. > > Apparently not... > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > > > On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Mar 23 14:18:14 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:18:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <158571754.559110.1584994694343@mail.yahoo.com> The block & caps are pretty much married for life.To replace missing caps you'll need a pile of caps from which to choose & a lot of luck for a close match, & then a machine shop that can do a good line-bore.Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson via Fot To: Brad Eells Cc: FOT Sent: Mon, Mar 23, 2020 11:35 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Mar 23 16:38:02 2020 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 17:38:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating indeed. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ? > I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. > > Bob Kramer > > >> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >> Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. >> >> Apparently not... >> >> >> Brad Eells >> Chino CA >> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >> >> >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Mon Mar 23 18:01:07 2020 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:01:07 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> References: <9B6A588C-FFF2-4775-95C9-D0EC87AE912C@comcast.net> Message-ID: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the > original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but > I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a > round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 > race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result > would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I > checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the > the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains > might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them > match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances > that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully > made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days > staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would > be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: > > Amici, > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for > rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V > Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, > I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if > need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving > on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved > each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines > during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very > successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 23 18:01:34 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BC57E78-469D-4B49-BB28-B6DA7AFE9DD4@aol.com> Might be best to fund another block. There are plenty of them around. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Mar 23 18:01:34 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BC57E78-469D-4B49-BB28-B6DA7AFE9DD4@aol.com> Might be best to fund another block. There are plenty of them around. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 7:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 23 19:20:11 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 21:20:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: > > ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating indeed. > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> I'm in a pretty big metro area in Austin and we have no local line boring available. Very frustrating. >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 11:36 AM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> Interesting...I thought that would be a standard machine shop operation, like resizing rods. >>> >>> Apparently not... >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 8:30 AM Bud Rolofson wrote: >>>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>>> >>>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>>> >>>> Solutions or recommendations? >>>> >>>> Thanks >>>> Bud >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Amici, >>>>> >>>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>>> >>>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>>> >>>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>>> >>>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>>> >>>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>>> >>>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>>> >>>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Cheers, >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Brad Eells >>>>> Chino CA >>>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> Bud Rolofson >>>> >>>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>>> >>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 20:35:57 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 21:35:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Brad Eells >>> Chino CA >>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Mon Mar 23 20:46:24 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 19:46:24 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Habit from a long long time ago error made me mark each main cap in my engines with a center punch and the side of the block area with a simular mark so that reassembly would always be correct & easy. This came from my work in the very early 50's and unknown engines for all over the world where you'd better have a clue on how to put that devil back together. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 7:36 PM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same > side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 > thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the > right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the > tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. > this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will > clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the > faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is > align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move > the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the > other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the > case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, > this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring > the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so > subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone > (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing > shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot > wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Tue Mar 24 05:27:14 2020 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:27:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 05:47:41 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:47:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >>> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 05:47:41 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:47:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >>> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> Amici, >>>> >>>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>>> >>>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. >>>> >>>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: >>>> >>>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>>> >>>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>>> >>>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. >>>> >>>> Thanks again Doug! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Brad Eells >>>> Chino CA >>>> #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 >>>> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 >>>> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com Tue Mar 24 06:26:15 2020 From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 08:26:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: <002501d601d7$6a293450$3e7b9cf0$@rr.com> Precision Automotive in Cortland NY has done cam bearings for 6 cylinder TRs for me. It sounds like it's a PITA for them but I've had them do two for me. Both were perfect. Russ Spitfire #49 -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of yellow04 via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 7:27 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Line Boring Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Tue Mar 24 06:26:40 2020 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:26:40 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone BQ_BEGIN On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: BQ_END BQ_BEGIN firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud BQ_BEGIN On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad Eells Chino CA #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net ] BQ_END Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage ] : [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au ] BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 06:29:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 12:29:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <262861113.1165263.1585052941420@mail.yahoo.com> I forgot to mention, that in terms of which bearing caps go with which engine, the factory stamped each block and each cap with an alphanumeric code, like "B24". ?Each block is stamped on the flange where the oil pan bolts, usually near the rear main. ?Each cap is stamped on a flat surface, sometimes on the face where the washer sits under the bolt head. ?If you are buying a used, disassembled block it is a good idea to make sure all the alphanumeric codes are the same. ?I got burned by this once..... Phil -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott To: Bob Kramer Cc: Enquiries Road & Track ; FOT Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 7:47 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: ? Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: ?firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 06:32:03 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 12:32:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Marcel; Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". ?Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. ?Would like to know if there is a better solution. Phil -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: Phil Gott Cc: fot Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it?The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too.Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet?Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 06:52:37 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:52:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. Bob Kramer On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the > caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it > should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark > each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine > in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both > due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be > sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal > may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the > centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal > where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will > compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one > of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of > the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go > slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > > ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same > side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 > thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the > right way and in number order? > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the > tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. > this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will > clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the > faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is > align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move > the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the > other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the > case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, > this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring > the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so > subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone > (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing > shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot > wrote: > >> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >> >> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >> be a good time to start building the next engine. >> >> Solutions or recommendations? >> >> Thanks >> Bud >> >> >> >> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Amici, >> >> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >> >> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, >> I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if >> need be. >> >> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >> on the surface of each cap: >> >> Eng #2 Front Fwd >> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >> >> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >> >> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >> successful racer thinks. >> >> Thanks again Doug! >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> >> >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 07:12:10 2020 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 08:12:10 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Bob, Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? ?Keith Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring machine yet. ?His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. Duncan On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , wrote: > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored.? I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine.? Unfortunately the outsourced machine?shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > > > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > > > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > > > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > > > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > > > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals.? Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > > > > > > > > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > > > > > > > > > if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > > > > > > > > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > > > > > > > > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > > > > > > > > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > > > > > > > > > if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > > > > > > > > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > > > > > > > > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact > > > > > > > > > > ?Terry > > > > > Australia > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > > > > > > > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Solutions or recommendations? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > Bud > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Amici, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Brad Eells > > > > > > > > Chino CA > > > > > > > > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > > > > > > > > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > > > > > > > > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bud Rolofson > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) > > > > > > > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 > > > > > > > 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) > > > > > > > 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle > > > > > > > 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Mar 24 07:32:18 2020 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 07:32:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: <06b401d601e0$a42ca660$ec85f320$@comcast.net> There are a few different shops in Colorado that do line bores. The Block Shop is one and HiPro Engines is the other. I built a GT6 motor about 5 years ago and British Sports Werks in Estes Park got the cam bearings drilled for me. http://britishsportswerks.com/ Jim G -----Original Message----- From: Fot On Behalf Of yellow04 via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 5:27 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Line Boring Very frustrating indeed! I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder block for cam bearings in his shop. On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot >> wrote: > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating >> indeed. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 08:11:39 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 09:11:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: I think it was Waco Machine. Bob Kramer On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > Bob, > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? Keith > Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike > used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring > machine yet. His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last > there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > Duncan > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , > wrote: > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of > "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to > have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin > and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. > Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for > the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > >> Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the >> caps and saddles are always on the same side. >> In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it >> should be really hard to mix them up. >> Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to >> mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. >> I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT >> machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, >> both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: >> 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to >> be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. >> 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal >> may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the >> centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal >> where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will >> compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one >> of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of >> the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go >> slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. >> Phil Gott >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot >> wrote: >> >> ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same >> side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 >> thing? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the >> right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the >> tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. >> this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will >> clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the >> faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is >> align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly >> move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on >> the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the >> case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, >> this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring >> the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so >> subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone >> (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing >> shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >>> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >>> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >>> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >>> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >>> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >>> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >>> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >>> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >>> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >>> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >>> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >>> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >>> be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >>> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >>> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. >>> Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination >>> if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >>> on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >>> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >>> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >>> successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> *Brad Eells* >>> *Chino CA* >>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 08:13:21 2020 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 09:13:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: Duncan If he has one maybe we can talk him out of his line boring machine and set it up with Dennis at Precision? On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > Bob, > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX? Keith > Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike > used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring > machine yet. His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last > there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > Duncan > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , > wrote: > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of > "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to > have it line bored. I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin > and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. > Worked fine. Unfortunately the outsourced machine shop that he used for > the line bore shut down a few years back. > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > >> Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the >> caps and saddles are always on the same side. >> In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it >> should be really hard to mix them up. >> Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to >> mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. >> I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT >> machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, >> both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: >> 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to >> be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. >> 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal >> may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the >> centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal >> where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will >> compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one >> of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of >> the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go >> slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. >> Phil Gott >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot >> wrote: >> >> ?Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same >> side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 >> thing? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the >> right way and in number order? >> >> you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the >> tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. >> this will need a combination of feel and measurement >> >> if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will >> clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up >> >> if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the >> faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is >> align honed >> >> if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly >> move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on >> the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing >> >> sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the >> case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them >> >> if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, >> this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring >> the tunnels >> >> not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so >> subcontracting the job is not uncommon >> >> the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone >> (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing >> shell contact >> >> Terry >> Australia >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the >>> original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but >>> I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a >>> round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 >>> race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result >>> would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. >>> Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I >>> checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the >>> the shop that said they couldn?t do it. >>> >>> Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains >>> might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them >>> match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances >>> that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully >>> made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days >>> staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would >>> be a good time to start building the next engine. >>> >>> Solutions or recommendations? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Bud >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> Amici, >>> >>> In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected >>> for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V >>> Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. >>> >>> This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. >>> Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination >>> if need be. >>> >>> I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving >>> on the surface of each cap: >>> >>> Eng #2 Front Fwd >>> Eng #2 Mid Fwd >>> Eng #2 Rr Fwd >>> >>> Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved >>> each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines >>> during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. >>> >>> I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very >>> successful racer thinks. >>> >>> Thanks again Doug! >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> *Brad Eells* >>> *Chino CA* >>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Bud Rolofson >>> >>> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >>> >>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >>> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >>> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >>> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Mar 24 08:23:10 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 14:23:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... References: <1197088337.795140.1585059790307.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1197088337.795140.1585059790307@mail.yahoo.com> Many times a line-hone will get things back in spec, boring shouldn't move the crank center more than a few thou, unless as the OP, non-matching caps are being fitted, or the engine has been through some major trauma and may have other issues.The cap is faced and the majority of material is removed from it until the block has just a slight shadow left right at the parting faces. Yes the register for the seal housing in the block will then be oval, hand filing or, depending on equipment available, facing a little off one half of the seal housing where it fits in the block will get it back on center.Yeah excessive line-boring will add slack to the chain & change the deck height, I've also seen engine mains & rods that were bored so much that there wasn't enough notch left for the bearing tang to fit, not recommended... Glen -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott via Fot To: Bob Kramer Cc: FOT Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 7:48 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side.?In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up.Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure.I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line:1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem.2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. ?Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended.Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: ? Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: ?firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact ?TerryAustralia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good.Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it.? Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? ThanksBud ? On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went.? This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front FwdEng #2 Mid FwdEng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle? 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barry at penybryn.ca Tue Mar 24 10:57:34 2020 From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:57:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> References: <952901389.244602497.1585052800071.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <864136587.1135370.1585053123503@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. Barry. - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. - Keep safe everyone. - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Hi Marcel; Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. Phil -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: Phil Gott Cc: fot Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? Marcel _____ Van: "fot" Aan: "Bob Kramer" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact Terry Australia On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. Solutions or recommendations? Thanks Bud On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: Eng #2 Front Fwd Eng #2 Mid Fwd Eng #2 Rr Fwd Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. Thanks again Doug! Cheers, Brad Eells Chino CA #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! Image removed by sender. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 440 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 11:11:51 2020 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:11:51 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Line Boring In-Reply-To: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> References: <4bbf2178fa014ca42315d56c57cdc094@tr4racer.com> Message-ID: To the best of my knowledge the the 6 cylinder blocks were bored for a larger camshaft bearing size and this diameter is what is needed to install the Spitfire 1296 cc cam bearings. In the many many 6 cylinder engines I built, I never once had to have anything line bored for installing cam bearings, but the camshafts were not useable for reginding as the bearings surfaces were too large. My very earliest little books in the 60's detailed how to install the cam bearingsI normally used for the Spitfire 1296 engines. No machining was necessary for this procedure. i discovered this in my very first work on the TR 250 engine in 1966 which was supplied without cam bearings and the larger camshaft surfaces. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 4:27 AM yellow04 via Fot wrote: > Very frustrating indeed! > > I have used Richard Good for the service, he can bore out the 6 cylinder > block for cam bearings in his shop. > > On 2020-03-23 21:20, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > It can be done in eastern Pa, last i checked. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:38 PM, Greg Blake via Fot > >> wrote: > > > >> ?Especially if you want cam bearings in a TR6 block. Frustrating > >> indeed. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:49:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:49:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> References: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Message-ID: Thank you Barry! Ken, what have you developed for this? Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 24, 2020, at 12:57 PM, Barry Munson wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. > > Barry. > - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. > - Keep safe everyone. > - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM > To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Hi Marcel; > > Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. > > However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: van.mulders.marcel > To: Phil Gott > Cc: fot > Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? > The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. > Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? > Marcel > > Van: "fot" > Aan: "Bob Kramer" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:49:01 2020 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 13:49:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> References: <004b01d601fd$52b92f70$f82b8e50$@ca> Message-ID: Thank you Barry! Ken, what have you developed for this? Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 24, 2020, at 12:57 PM, Barry Munson wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil ? There is a better solution to the stock tensioner. It was developed by Ken Knight for the wet liner engine and is hydraulic similar to the system used on Datsun 4cyl and Z engines. His is a piece of art. > > Barry. > - Stuck up here in northern Alberta with everything shut down. Even the first half of our racing season has been cancelled. > - Keep safe everyone. > - It is really encouraging to see FOT waking up, I was really starting to miss it. > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: March 24, 2020 6:32 AM > To: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Hi Marcel; > > Line boring should not materially affect the chain itself, as the crank centerline is raised usually less than .005". Might affect cam timing a bit, but in the worst case scenario that can be fixed with a Vernier sprocket. > > However, I agree with your assessment of the tensioner. Would like to know if there is a better solution. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: van.mulders.marcel > To: Phil Gott > Cc: fot > Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 8:26 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > What about the chain? Is there noticeably more slach of it? > The chain tensioners do almost nothing . Sometimes there are deep grooves in a short time, sometimes there is almost no scoring. Probably this is because of the chain running smoothly or with severe oscillations. Oscillations of the chain will have an influence on the ignition timing too. > Has anyone tried an alternative solution for the tensioner to keep the chain quiet? > Marcel > > Van: "fot" > Aan: "Bob Kramer" > Cc: "fot" > Verzonden: Dinsdag 24 maart 2020 12:47:41 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals. Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > Phil Gott > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > if the alternative caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > if the tunnel is simply an oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure perfect bearing shell contact > > Terry > Australia > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > Solutions or recommendations? > > Thanks > Bud > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful racer thinks. > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > Cheers, > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 14:01:28 2020 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 15:01:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Doug Still Guides Me... In-Reply-To: References: <4461fd7b-211b-4691-8d08-2e7055045b56@Spark> Message-ID: Maybe? he lives near my son so next time I run into him I?ll ask about line boring and other machining, and whether he?s interested in selling equipment. ?I?m thinking he not mind having the cash ? but, incidentally, what?s the word on Dennis? future plans? Duncan On Mar 24, 2020, 9:11 AM -0500, Bob Kramer , wrote: > Duncan > > If he has one maybe we can talk him out of his line boring machine and set it up with Dennis at Precision? > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 8:12 AM Duncan Charlton wrote: > > > Bob, > > > > > > Do you know whether the outsourcing shop was the one in Elgin, TX?? Keith Kubosh, the guy who bought that place, has all the old equipment that Mike used, but I don?t know whether or not he?s learned to use the line-boring machine yet.? His welding job takes up most of his time but when I was last there a couple of years ago he was doing some engine work. > > > > > > Duncan > > > On Mar 24, 2020, 7:51 AM -0500, Bob Kramer via Fot , wrote: > > > > I did have a sound block that came without bearing caps and a supply of "almost fit" caps. Not wanting to waste a good block I spent the money to have it line bored.? I've got a pretty talented machinist here in Austin and he trimmed down the caps before sending it out to get lined bored. Worked fine.? Unfortunately the outsourced machine?shop that he used for the line bore shut down a few years back. > > > > > > > > Bob Kramer > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 6:47 AM Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > Yes, Bob, as far as I know you are correct, the bearing notches in the caps and saddles are always on the same side. > > > > > > In the TR wet sleeve engine, each cap is unique as to its position, so it should be really hard to mix them up. > > > > > > Kas is right, however, in that in many engines it is good practice to mark each cap as to position and orientation, just to be sure. > > > > > > I have had a wet sleeve block line bored just to true it up at ABT machine in Holliston, Mass. This creates two issues that must be addressed, both due to the slight raising of the crank center line: > > > > > > 1) the clearance space of the top of the pistons needs to be checked to be sure there is no interference at TDC. Usually not a problem. > > > > > > 2) more of a problem is that the aluminum insert for the rear main seal may interfere with the block. This will become apparent when using the centering tool, and can be addressed by filing down the area of the seal where it interferes. Do not file or alter any other surface, as this will compromise the ability of the seal to function and/or to hold correctly one of the aftermarket rubber seals.? Be careful also not to gouge the face of the aluminum seal where it mates with the flat surface of the block. Go slow and be careful. It should all work as intended. > > > > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 10:36 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Don?t all the main bearing caps go in with bearing notches on the same side as the notches in the saddles in the block? Or is that just a TR4 thing? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:59 PM, Enquiries Road & Track via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > firstly, are you 100% sure the caps are correctly fitted both round the right way and in number order? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > you need to decide if the caps are misaligned across the block or if the tunnel is simply oval because?the hole in in cap is too far up or down. this will need a combination of feel and measurement > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the alternative?caps have a significant step to 1 side, so you will clearly feel a ledge at the mating faces when they are tightened up > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the stap is very minor, like a few thousandths?of an inch, then the faces of the cap are machined down to create an oval hole, then it it is align honed > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if it is really bad, like many tens of thou, then you have to firstly move the cap sideways by machining the register on 1 side and peening?it on the other, and effectively moving it sideways, followed by boring/honing > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > sometimes, the bolts are too neat a fit to allow this and if thats the case, its usually easier to find some other caps or make them > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > if the tunnel is simply?an?oval because the cap is too far up or down, this is usually easily fixed by facing the cap mating surfaces and reboring the tunnels > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > not all engine machine shop have a line borer...mine did not, so subcontracting the job is not uncommon > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > the end result should be a perfectly round hole with a super fine hone (cross-hatch) mark on the bearing faces, to ensure?perfect bearing shell?contact > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ?Terry > > > > > > > > Australia > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 1:32 AM Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Speaking of main caps I bought a block that turned out to not have the original main caps. The caps on there did not match up with the block but I?ve been unable to find a machine shop that can machine them so there?s a round hole for the crank. The shop I had do my last block (and they do 427 race engines among others and are well respected) told me that the result would be ovaled out holes (not round) which obviously is not good. > > > > > > > > > > Certainly there?s a way to make this work but I haven?t found it. I checked out another block shop but said they subcontract line-boring to the the shop that said they couldn?t do it. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone else encountered this problem? I?ve heard that steel mains might be an answer but they?d still have to be line-bored to make them match. I hate to ship a block to get this done before I have reassurances that they can make it work but does anyone know of that has successfully made main caps match the block? Given I?m spending a lot of time these days staying home and catching up on car projects in the shop I figured it would be a good time to start building the next engine. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Solutions or recommendations? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > Bud > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 22, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Amici, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > In typically rookie race engine builder mode with the block I selected for rebuild, I pulled the main bearing caps (with my new fancy DeWalt 20V Impact Wrench) and then couldn't remember which way around they went. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This led to visions of catastrophic failure somewhere down the road. Yet, I had several other blocks I could flip over and make a determination if need be. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was examining one of the caps when I discovered the faintest engraving on the surface of each cap: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Front Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Mid Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > Eng #2 Rr Fwd > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Doug Brown, my original owner/builder/driver extraordinaire had engraved each cap for me to make sure a mistake didn't occur. He rotated 3 engines during each season in a quest for Divisional and National Championships. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I guess that is the way a aeronautical/mechanical engineer and very successful?racer thinks. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again Doug! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Brad Eells > > > > > > > > > > > Chino CA > > > > > > > > > > > #72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > > > > > > > > > > > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > > > > > > > > > > > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Bud Rolofson > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Extreme Parts Racing?(more than just a haircut) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good?6) > > > > > > > > > > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race?Car #3 > > > > > > > > > > 69 Spitfire MK III (back?up FE engine/dinghy car) > > > > > > > > > > 93 Minnie Winnie Race?Support Vehicle > > > > > > > > > > 77 Z-50A Hardly?Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit?Bike) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kknight at klaenv.com Fri Mar 27 08:35:26 2020 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 07:35:26 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing Message-ID: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E Good day to the FOT family. In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few minutes! Stay safe, Ken -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Mar 27 12:08:39 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 18:08:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> Message-ID: <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> AM i STILL ON fot? ?.don,t seem to get the day to day emails from everyone ?....anyway,I have some interesting things that some may be interested in.....Rick? kristoff In a message dated 3/27/2020 10:35:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E Good day to the FOT family.? In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu.? While we are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic.? The story, the characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane.? Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best viewing on YouTube! ??Many of us have old British cars, think of this as the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water!? So follow along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few minutes! Stay safe, Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Fri Mar 27 14:19:39 2020 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 15:19:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> <1448703560.3224843.1585332519572@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: O.K. Rick. I'll bite.. What do you have of interest?? On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 1:08 PM Rick Kristoff via Fot wrote: > AM i STILL ON fot ?.don,t seem to get the day to day emails from everyone > ?....anyway,I have some interesting things that some may be interested > in.....Rick kristoff > > In a message dated 3/27/2020 10:35:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, > fot at autox.team.net writes: > > https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E > > Good day to the FOT family. > > In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is > a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we > are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the > full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the > characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic > (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. > > Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best > viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as > the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow > along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few > minutes! > > Stay safe, Ken > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mckearn2 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Mar 28 08:58:49 2020 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 10:58:49 -0400 Subject: [Fot] WE ARE OPEN Message-ID: <1e10286a-8ab1-e500-b684-02e7e42c0d8f@bright.net> ?? ??? ??? ??? ??? ? We're open and shipping!? There's no better time to get started on that project vehicle! We are here to take your calls and help you get the parts you need. NEW - USED - REBUILT - PERFORMANCE - NOS ??? Servicing your brakes? Why not add our Steelbraid brake hose? How about new wheel bearing kits. Time to replace or upgrade suspension bushings, try our poly bushings! Keep the family and yourself well. Then improve your car's "health". Get ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Stay well and healthy. Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 103 E. Main St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Mar 28 12:38:29 2020 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:38:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Good Video Series to Survive Social Distancing In-Reply-To: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> References: <000001d60444$f560fe30$e022fa90$@klaenv.com> Message-ID: Thanks Ken, This is reminding me why I sold my last boat and bought a race car. mike h On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 10:35 AM Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: > https://youtu.be/w954lDdKm8E > > Good day to the FOT family. > > In these trying times, and the fact that many are stuck at home, there is > a great video series on YouTube featuring my mate Dangar Stu. While we > are, for the time being, only friends on the internet his series on the > full restoration of an old steel trawler are epic. The story, the > characters (dog Eddy, the family chickens + assorted mates) are the tonic > (Coopers beer) we need to keep sane. > > Stu is a man with a dream and the video skills to make some the best > viewing on YouTube! Many of us have old British cars, think of this as > the restoration of a rusty TR, while sitting in salt water! So follow > along with Stu, Eddy, the Chickens and his friends and just relax for a few > minutes! > > Stay safe, Ken > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfetta95 at optonline.net Sat Mar 28 15:14:37 2020 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Redmond) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 17:14:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races > > Friends! > > Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. > > Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! > > > Any ideas or suggestions? > > Todd > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Sat Mar 28 15:31:26 2020 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 21:31:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <1307871751.281870.1585431086804@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Todd, My first question would be, was the engine fully warmed up when you set the idle at 1100? (Like HOT)? ?I know once my race engine gets warm the idle is much higher; make sure to set idle with a hot engine... ?but maybe you already did that! Let us know! Thanks,Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Saturday, March 28, 2020, 5:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again. Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends! Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions? Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Sat Mar 28 15:33:35 2020 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:33:35 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: <4E6FCB06-3E7D-417D-9801-A86819AF5E9B@artwithcars.com> On my racing TR3, I have a fairly stout secondary carb linkage return spring. It ensures that the carbs always get pulled back to zero ~Steve > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:14 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sun Mar 29 05:24:59 2020 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 11:24:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow.Tighten the clamp and check it again.If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak.HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again.Sorry for the double post if it comes thru.Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends!Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ.Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions?Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ppopplewell at gmail.com Sun Mar 29 06:27:55 2020 From: ppopplewell at gmail.com (Peter Popplewell) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:27:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I had a very similar problem to this on my TR6 after switching carbs from Zenith to a pair of Hitachi-SUs off a Datsun 240z. I swore I had more than enough ?return spring? on the throttle linkage, would work perfectly with throttle blips in the garage with no load, but on the street it would behave exactly as you?re describing. I switched to much heavier return springs and problem went away. On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:25 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: > Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are > returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow. > Tighten the clamp and check it again. > If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could > have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak. > HTH > Glen > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Redmond via Fot > To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races > > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > Todd > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > Friends! > Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. > Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i > pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled > off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added > a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was > sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back > up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set > to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! > > Any ideas or suggestions? > Todd > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ppopplewell at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:36:36 2020 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 15:36:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: References: <1460118123.581871.1585411168495@mymail.optimum.net> <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> <750621147.338741.1585481027337@mail.yahoo.com> <2108426340.372423.1585481099895@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <353606809.416062.1585496196701@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - Not for nothing, but sometimes we fix symptoms but the original problem is still there. I would verify that the throttle shafts are not worn and that the butterflies close completely. As most of you probably know, with no load on an engine, it doesn't take much more than a crack of the throttle to see some wicked pissah (*) RPM's! I did an initial startup on a TR6 race motor with a Weber DCOE 40 that was stock on the idle screw - I saw 7000 on the tach as I shut off the ignition. It went to those RPMs in less than a second. Speaking of which - the idle stops on the stock DCOE40's SUCK. The metal is too thin for the screw contact patch and they wedge in there... makes syncing the carbs a real beyatch. But it also why I cringe or resort to profanity if an over zealous tech inspector tries snapping the throttles. But I got to build that motor... TWICE. Regards,Bob Lang(*) W-P is a regional expression for superlative measure. On Sunday, March 29, 2020, 8:40:00 AM EDT, Peter Popplewell via Fot wrote: I had a very similar problem to this on my TR6 after switching carbs from Zenith to a pair of Hitachi-SUs off a Datsun 240z.? I swore I had more than enough ?return spring? on the throttle linkage, would work perfectly with throttle blips in the garage with no load, but on the street it would behave exactly as you?re describing.? I switched to much heavier return springs and problem went away. On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:25 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: Loosen the carb connecting clamp and make sure that both throttles are returning fully and against the idle stops, and then balance the airflow.Tighten the clamp and check it again.If both throttles are returning fully, and it still does it, you could have a loose or incorrectly centered butterfly, or a vacuum leak.HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Mar 28, 2020 5:15 pm Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races I sent this earlier today with a video.? I removed it and am trying again.Sorry for the double post if it comes thru.Todd ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Redmond To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM Subject: Engine races Friends!Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ.Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k? I shut it down and pulled off the road.? This has happened before and we've done some things,? added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's).? I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm.? We had it set to 1100rpm.? Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints!? Any ideas or suggestions?Todd ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ppopplewell at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2863.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 151792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:59:15 2020 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:59:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: Todd Perhaps the key bit of info here is the fact that this occurred when you stepped on the clutch! Maybe check your motor/trans mounts. No racin here Stuck in the scatter here in NorCal Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > ? > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 29 09:59:15 2020 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:59:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Engine races In-Reply-To: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> References: <1322202060.917965.1585430078143@mymail.optimum.net> Message-ID: Todd Perhaps the key bit of info here is the fact that this occurred when you stepped on the clutch! Maybe check your motor/trans mounts. No racin here Stuck in the scatter here in NorCal Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Mar 28, 2020, at 2:15 PM, Redmond via Fot wrote: > > ? > I sent this earlier today with a video. I removed it and am trying again. > > Sorry for the double post if it comes thru. > > Todd > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Redmond > To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" > Date: March 28, 2020 at 11:59 AM > Subject: Engine races > > >> Friends! >> >> Was a beautiful day for a drive yesterday in northern NJ. >> >> Problem is shortly after this video I was coming to a stop and when i pressed in the clutch the engine raced to 5-6k I shut it down and pulled off the road. This has happened before and we've done some things, added a vacuum line, lubricated the linkage as we thought that the throttle was sticking, check the idle screw thinking it loosened(SU's). I fired it back up and the racing stopped but the idle now was at 2300rpm. We had it set to 1100rpm. Drove it home, parked it and had a couple of pints! >> >> >> >> Any ideas or suggestions? >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Sun Mar 29 13:45:51 2020 From: rek46 at aol.com (Rick Kristoff) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 19:45:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] old triumph books and manuals References: <378521062.685123.1585511151222.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <378521062.685123.1585511151222@mail.yahoo.com> Have almost 30 yrs of accumulated Spitfire and other models ..Comp. preps , workshop from Coventry HQ,Dealer parts manual for mk III s ,glovebox manuals, etc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Mon Mar 30 08:53:05 2020 From: don at dcphotos.com (Don Couch) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 09:53:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Amici, I?d like to nominate John Vincent. He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. Anyway, can I get a second? Don J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com Sent from my iPhone From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 09:16:27 2020 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 11:16:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: Seconded On Mon, Mar 30, 2020, 10:53 AM Don Couch via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > I?d like to nominate John Vincent. > He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it > off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. > They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and > got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. > Anyway, can I get a second? > Don > > J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbm.spitfire at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Mar 30 09:24:56 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 09:24:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 30 09:39:32 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 15:39:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America.? Road America is big, and it was not a problem.? In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions.? For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST).? I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know).? The race was in the rain.? I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race.? I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap.? But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. ? Not sure, but 1990, I think. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:06:09 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:06:09 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > > Amici... > > They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. > > Not sure, but 1990, I think. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot > To: fot > Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination > > Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 > people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look > like > > mjb. > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:27:02 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:27:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault? I think it was al combination of all of the above. As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. "Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > > 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. > > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> >> Amici... >> >> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >> >> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >> >> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >> like >> >> mjb. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 10:33:39 2020 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 11:33:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It was a perfect storm of multiple factors, methinks. With a trigger. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Bud Rolofson via Fot wrote: > > ? > 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. > > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> >> Amici... >> >> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >> >> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >> >> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >> like >> >> mjb. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 10:34:07 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:34:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> Message-ID: There's a 14.5 minute video compilation of in car videos also. Read the comments. Sent from my Commodore 64 > On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > > So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault? > I think it was al combination of all of the above. > As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. "Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." > > Sent from my Commodore 64 > >> On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: >> >> 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. >> >> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY >> >> Sent from my Commodore 64 >> >>> On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Amici... >>> >>> They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America. Road America is big, and it was not a problem. In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions. For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST). I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know). The race was in the rain. I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race. I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap. But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. >>> >>> Not sure, but 1990, I think. >>> >>> Bill Dentinger >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot >>> To: fot >>> Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am >>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination >>> >>> Okay, he's on the list. In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 >>> people now. What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look >>> like >>> >>> mjb. >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 30 11:05:59 2020 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 17:05:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> <792050137.1109207.1585582772510@mail.yahoo.com> <15D208B6-1147-4A38-84DB-C60B876D3F05@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1614140389.1193895.1585587959709@mail.yahoo.com> A lot of carnage that day. Carl Jensen (RIP, RA Competition Guru at the time) always said the issue was these big, powerful V8s laying back and creating distance between themselves and the car in front of them.? Many of the cars up front were still tight together, and when the track went green these guys in the back came storming up the hill, sometimes four wide. After that Jensen insisted the entire grid maintain a 'car's length' between you and the guy in front of you.? If you didn't, the group did not get a green flag. I can't remember for sure, but I think there was no passing until you went under the bridge as well. Bill Dentinger PS? Later Carl Jensen re-thought the rule and told Race Groups that they would ALWAYS get a green flag, regardless of how orderly they were or weren't.? I guess they decided? that was safer. -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson To: Bill Dentinger Cc: mark ; fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 9:34 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination There's ?a 14.5 minute video compilation of in car videos also. Read the comments. Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:27 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: So who thinks it was the pole setters, the yellow Camaro, or the flag mans fault??I think it was al combination of all of the above.As Brad Kahler says on his email signature. ?"Mistakes have been made others will be blamed." Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: 360 Triumphs on the start might look like this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ToRijW7mZoY Sent from my Commodore 64 On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:39 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici... They were not all TRIUMPHs, but I was on a grid of 110 entries one time at Road America.? Road America is big, and it was not a problem.? In fact all that traffic was a lot of fun in the practice and qualifying sessions.? For the Feature Races on Sunday they split us into two groups (FAST and HALF FAST).? I was gridded 4th in the HALF FAST group (I know, I know).? The race was in the rain.? I was in 1st place by Turn 3, and stayed there for almost the whole race.? I did get passed when I got sideways just passed the kink on the last lap.? But I caught the guy in the last turn, and won the race. ? Not sure, but 1990, I think. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2020 8:25 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Okay, he's on the list.? In case anyone is wondering, we're at about 360 people now.? What would a Kastner Cup starting grid of 360 Triumphs look like mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 13:57:31 2020 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 12:57:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... Message-ID: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> Amici, Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... Cheers! -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8793.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 400041 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone From slaterptrs at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 14:49:18 2020 From: slaterptrs at gmail.com (Tim Slater) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 16:49:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... In-Reply-To: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> References: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com> Message-ID: Brad, Adding washers is an old trick to adjust the oil pressure relief. Should see 75 -80 lbs or so when cold and 60-65 running hot at high RPM. Tim Slater. Phone: 561-820-0021 On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 4:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. > > 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. > > Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different > thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... > > Cheers! > > > > Brad Eells > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/slaterptrs at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Mar 30 17:20:15 2020 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 18:20:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> References: <6F593B23-40B8-4ADC-995F-CF6AA02E68E5@dcphotos.com> Message-ID: That was Bill Collin?s old car. Very good driver. Wish he was back in track with us. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 30, 2020, at 9:53 AM, Don Couch via Fot wrote: > > ? > Amici, > I?d like to nominate John Vincent. > He and his father are racing Mike Collins yellow Spitfire. They bought it off the guy who bought it from Glen Valdez. > They were elbows deep into a head gasket swap at the last CVAR race and got her back together and turned some impressive lap times. > Anyway, can I get a second? > Don > > J.vincent6892 at yahoo.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 30 19:20:48 2020 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 21:20:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 Message-ID: has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on these engines - are Spitfires the same too? In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 30 19:25:40 2020 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 01:25:40 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 1300 Speed Secrets... In-Reply-To: References: <3AE322D1-C649-4482-A54B-B15FFF8246DA@gmail.com>, Message-ID: We use 60 @ cold idle & 80 hot 6000 rpm Sent from my iPhone On Mar 30, 2020, at 4:49 PM, Tim Slater via Fot wrote: ? Brad, Adding washers is an old trick to adjust the oil pressure relief. Should see 75 -80 lbs or so when cold and 60-65 running hot at high RPM. Tim Slater. Phone: 561-820-0021 On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 4:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot > wrote: Amici, Interesting discovery when I disassembled a spare racing short block. 2 hand ground washers at the end of the oil pressure relief valve shaft. Clearly meaning to increase relief pressure. The washers are different thicknesses, suggesting Doug had a specific relief pressure in mind... Cheers! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/slaterptrs at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Mon Mar 30 21:36:28 2020 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 23:36:28 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <27877e28-2cba-ed46-7011-22a0ca745922@verizon.net> Hi??? Scott. I'm pretty sure Richard Good has titanium retainers. Use the same ones on both intake and exhaust valves; eliminates the two piece retainer (collar) on the exhaust valves. Not sure about Spits. Cheers Bill On 3/30/2020 9:20 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on > these engines - are Spitfires the same too? > In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. > > Scott > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au Mon Mar 30 23:31:21 2020 From: gkbyrne at optusnet.com.au (Geoff Byrne) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 16:31:21 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Valve Spring Retainers - TR6, GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83C61BFD-F9DB-48BC-95B0-CDF1151A120F@optusnet.com.au> Richard Good has titanium caps I?ve been using on a number of engines for over ten years never had a problem in all those years if racing Geoff Byrne TR6 racer down under Sent from my iPhone > On 31 Mar 2020, at 12:21 pm, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ?has anyone found a high quality valve spring retainer that works on these engines - are Spitfires the same too? > In particular, looking for a tool steel retainer. > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gkbyrne at optushome.com.au > > From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Mar 31 14:28:56 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 16:28:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup shirts Message-ID: Amici, While we're all doing laps around the ceiling being in self-isolation, what better time to order shirts for the Cup event. Remember that no money will change hands until the shirts are actually made. Currently we have 59 shirts ordered, which is well below the threshold needed. If the event happens, the shirts will be made, but if it is cancelled, no money changes hands - nothing happens. The absolute deadline for ordering is 30 JUN, but please don't wait. To paraphrase a political joke on Chicago, order early and order often :-) So, let's be super-optimistic and order some shirts! The process is simple: go to order shirts here and fill in your info. Very simple, very easy. Lots of businesses are currently offering free, no contact delivery. Ted is offering free delivery to the track but will certainly shake your hand or clap you on the back - that's the comradery we need! Stay well everyone jim -- W4BEA The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. Thomas Jefferson I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily entertained is totally the way to go! ;-) J. Stoll -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Mar 31 15:29:35 2020 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 17:29:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Kastner Cup shirts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ack. I guess this virus isolation business has rotted my brain. The absolute deadline for shirt orders is 30 APR, *NOT* 30 JUN. (thanks Ted and Jerry). jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: