[Fot] Main brg strap

[Mordy Dunst]

A strap is an intermediate step.  
In my opinion unless that main cap is anchored to the block - it moves.  So,  I surface grind the main cap flat.  Make a stout steel strap thick enough to almost be at level of block.  Naturally Appropriately dimensioned - legnth and width.  Holes large enough within the strap to accept 12 pt nuts on 1/2 studs.  Additinal tapped holes in the cap strap to secure the 1/2” plate.   Sandwhiched oil pan gaskets top and bottom.  
I use a prepared stock crank- Not a billet.  

MDunstHeadgasket.com626.358.1616 Fax 626.628.3777 Triple R Munitions, Inc626.201.9471 TFFL 6,7 SOT 2
 On Tuesday, January 14, 2020, Bob Kramer via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Crack at the rear head bolt?  If you are talking about the threads that hold in the head stud I once had a block that was good other than one corner stud hole having a crack that radiated into the liner opening. Cause the head to move around at that corner and resulted in head gasket problems. It was corrected with the Timesert, basically a threaded insert style of thread replacement.  The machine shop that did it pinned in place with wedges and that required a little JB Weld to keep the water in check.
Bob Kramer

On Mon, Jan 13, 2020 at 10:43 PM Nick Black via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Well it’s finally time to build a new motor... the crack at the rear head bolt just won’t stop leakin anymore...so...
I’ve found the Chevy front strap to use on the center main, but what are you using for main bolts/studs for the additional length?
How about a complete set of fasteners for the mains? Does ARP make anything?

Motoring on in NORCAL
Nick

Sent from the wilds of NorCal 
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