[Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

Thu Apr 2 07:41:24 MDT 2020

This one:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/LPR-Zentralausrucker-Kupplung-3603-12-x-1-Aluminium-fur-SAAB-9000-2-0-16-Turbo/383352319940?epid=1461269385 <https://www.ebay.de/itm/LPR-Zentralausrucker-Kupplung-3603-12-x-1-Aluminium-fur-SAAB-9000-2-0-16-Turbo/383352319940?epid=1461269385&hash=item5941942fc4:g:Vh8AAOSwiX1eDtiZ> &hash=item5941942fc4:g:Vh8AAOSwiX1eDtiZ

Saab 9000 Turbo

Von: vfracing at aol.com <vfracing at aol.com> 
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 2. April 2020 15:29
An: tr4racing at googlemail.com; sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

50 Euro! 

Which one is that?

-----Original Message-----
From: tr4racing <tr4racing at googlemail.com <mailto:tr4racing at googlemail.com> >
To: vfracing <vfracing at aol.com <mailto:vfracing at aol.com> >; tr4racing <tr4racing at googlemail.com <mailto:tr4racing at googlemail.com> >; sjanzen <sjanzen at me.com <mailto:sjanzen at me.com> >; fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Thu, Apr 2, 2020 9:20 am
Subject: AW: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

I’m carrying a spare in a box. Takes about 2 hours to change.

The unit I use is cheap. Maybe 50€

Von: vfracing at aol.com <mailto:vfracing at aol.com>  <vfracing at aol.com <mailto:vfracing at aol.com> > 
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 2. April 2020 15:11
An: tr4racing at googlemail.com <mailto:tr4racing at googlemail.com> ; sjanzen at me.com <mailto:sjanzen at me.com> ; fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> 
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

Having had my slave unit fail at Sebring - a 2 1/2 day drive from home  - I'm taking the advice of my crew chief and going to rebuild the slave at least once per year.

-----Original Message-----
From: tr4racing <tr4racing at googlemail.com <mailto:tr4racing at googlemail.com> >
To: vfracing <vfracing at aol.com <mailto:vfracing at aol.com> >; tr4racing <tr4racing at googlemail.com <mailto:tr4racing at googlemail.com> >; sjanzen <sjanzen at me.com <mailto:sjanzen at me.com> >; fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Thu, Apr 2, 2020 8:58 am
Subject: AW: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

Phil,

pretty smart engineerd to have 3 rings in use.

I think mine has only one and had been used on a Volvo car.

DOT4 is more aggressive than DOT3. But maybe Quatermaster sells something even less aggressive?

But from time to time, the seals in my hydraulic are getting soft from the fluids.

Cheers

Chris

Von: vfracing at aol.com <mailto:vfracing at aol.com>  <vfracing at aol.com <mailto:vfracing at aol.com> > 
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 2. April 2020 14:38
An: tr4racing at googlemail.com <mailto:tr4racing at googlemail.com> ; sjanzen at me.com <mailto:sjanzen at me.com> ; fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> 
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

Good point, Chris; 

On the 721, there are 3 o-rings.  Two seal the hydraulic fluid and, as you point out, are in contact with that on one side and whatever is in the bell housing on the other side.  The third is between the transmission snout and the concentric slave body.  It sees only what is in the bell housing.  The two that were in contact with hydraulic fluid were swollen and rubbery, whereas the third was not, suggesting that the brake fluid is at fault.  On the other hand, I have no idea if the o-rings are all the same type of rubber or not.

Pending clarification from Irv, I am going with the Quartermaster fluid, the 721 slave, and the Girling (now TRW) master cylinder.

Phil

-----Original Message-----
From: tr4racing <tr4racing at googlemail.com <mailto:tr4racing at googlemail.com> >
To: 'Phil Gott' <vfracing at aol.com <mailto:vfracing at aol.com> >; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com <mailto:sjanzen at me.com> >; fot at autox. team. net <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Thu, Apr 2, 2020 8:30 am
Subject: AW: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

The thing with concentric slaves sitting in the bell housing is often, that they get also oil from leaking engines or leaking gearboxes.

Most slaves die from getting in contact with oil, rarely than with brake fluid.

Cheers

Chris

Von: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net> > Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 2. April 2020 13:44
An: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com <mailto:sjanzen at me.com> >
Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> >
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

To add to what Jim said: if you go the Quartermaster route, use the Quartermaster hydraulic fluid. They say any DOT 3 or 4 fluid will work, but it ain’t so. Some brake fluids will attack the rubber in the Quartermaster slave cylinder (see photo). I have compared the Quartermaster fluid with regular DOT 3 and 4 fluid and can tell you it is a BUNCH slipperier. The slave works much more smoothly.

BTW this is a Quartermaster 721 series concentric slave and throwout bearing.

Phil Gott

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 1, 2020, at 9:42 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I can tell you the size for the GT6 bits, if they are the same.  

Studs are 7/16” x3-1/2” overall length, 20TPI. 

My ARP box is marked 206-5404 Triumph TR7 main stud kit.

On Apr 1, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Brad Eells via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Hello Amici,

Thinking aloud here as I have time on my hands. A couple of questions:

1. Main cap fasteners - ARP  does not make a main stud kit for the Spifire 1300 and does not list their studs by size either. If you have an ARP stud and nut set up, how did you order it? They have readily available a 7/16"x3" bolt for direct replacement of the OEM bolt.

2. Clutches - the vintage set up in my engines are a lightened factory flywheel, coming up just under 13 lbs with ring gear and a Borg & Beck clutch disc and plate. I've run 3 race weekends with the clutch that has been in the car for 43 years, so far without issue. I'm thinking I would like to stick with the flywheel I have with a good clutch solution. 

I know this one is a bit of a can of worms but have at it with your valued thoughts. I'm looking for simple and reliable. I am not nearly as smart as the aeronautical engineer that built the car.

I hope you are all safe and well...

Cheers,

Brad

Brad Eells

Chino CA

#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3

#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4

1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!

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