[Fot] Battery ?

[Tony Sheach]

I’ve had a dry cell battery failure caused by overcharging from an OE DENSO alternator when the internal regulator pack obviously failed.

This happened very very quickly and because we were running digital tripmeters and clocks in the car at the time we got early warning as they are very voltage sensitive. The battery took about 5 minutes to gas up and would have popped has I not switched off and disconnected it. All in the dark and rain as usual on a rally and in the middle of nowhere.

Dry cells are not trouble free so unless you need the weight saving I’d suggest some careful thought on using them.

Sent from my iPhone

On 16 Sep 2019, at 14:49, ralph hansen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:

I have used an Optima in many of my cars for a few decades, LOVE them. Even got over 10 years out of more than one. They are a bit heavy but do not need a case in some racing orgs. I would say go this route. Lithium are nice but some orgs do not allow them, and if they do you need special markings on the car. Could be a problem if you have a fire and a lithium battery is involved, per the FD, a real pita to put out and keep out in rare cases.

Ralph

On Monday, September 16, 2019, 08:07:24 AM CDT, Ponostyle via Fot <fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:


Oops, error: Actually, it’s possible to have a two terminal battery that cuts off charging when a maximum voltage is reached, but to my knowledge none of the batteries available commercially do that.

On Sep 15, 2019, at 9:07 PM, Ponostyle via Fot <fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:

If you want to get a seriously good battery then Lithium is the way to go. Unfortunately there are several issues that make that decision a little tricky. If the car is going to charge the battery instead of running it total loss and charging in the pits, then you have to accept certain limitations in the battery—like it might die fairly quickly. Most people don’t want to rewire their car to accommodate a lithium battery, so even the eye-wateringly expensive (a thousand bucks and up) are designed with a simplified BMS system that protects from overcharging by disconnecting the battery. If your electric system can live with that, then you might as well buy one of the cheaper ones ($150-ish) and see how it goes. The best way to manage a lithium battery is to keep it connected to the car but disable charging when the cells reach about 95% charge, and disconnect the battery entirely if the cell voltage gets to 20 percent or so. If you do that the battery will outlast the car. If you don’t, it might die the first time you overcharge or completely drain the battery. Any battery with an internal BMS and just two terminals can’t just shut off charging.

Lead acid batteries respond to overcharging by going into electrolysis and generating oxygen and hydrogen. Nothing terrible happens unless it goes on too long without adding water, or you manage to catch the hydrogen/oxygen mixture on fire, in which case it turns back into water and disassembles the battery.

Unless you are prepared to build your own battery from a box full of LiFe cells, add your own BMS and control charging I suspect you should get an AGM and be happy. Optimas are not all that special.

On Sep 15, 2019, at 8:38 PM, Nick Black via Fot <fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Its time for some new electrons in the Duke of Oil (TR4A as named by Hardy's wife Ellie) and there should be something better than a heavy ole wetcell type. I know some of the Optima batts are popular, but what is the flavour du jour? And will it need some sort of special charger?
OR
Should I just go get another wetcell type?

Thoughts and considerations?

Outta juice here in NorCal
Nick
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