[Fot] fuel pressure gauges with isolators

Fri Mar 1 06:00:04 MST 2019

An isolator is a device that sends the pressure signal to the gage using a different fluid (diethyl ether or more commonly propylene glycol). If the gauge fails, the fluid that gets sprayed into the passenger compartment is minimal and non flammable. The isolator normally sits in the engine bay.  That way the number of fittings in the fuel line within the passenger compartment is minimal. Should be zero imho.

This is a low pressure isolator (0-15 psi). Gauge line goes out the back side through the firewall.  For fuel injection systems there are high pressure isolators available.  An alternative is to use an electric gauge with sender under the hood.
Phil Gott 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:05 AM, Brian Schirano <bschirano at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> very interesting talk on the EGT probes. A side bar came up on fuel pressure gauges with isolators.. I have the gauge, but isolators? What is this? 
> I have a single braided line up through the tub from elec pump and filter in the rear to regulator and gauge under the bonnet, line then splits to the carbs. 
> Education please.
> 
> Thanks
> Brian
> 
> 26A GT6+, 28 TR6
> Brian Schirano
> 585-305-0349 Cell 
> BSchirano at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> On Thursday, February 28, 2019, 10:52:17 PM EST, vfracing--- via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> I second the fuel pressure recommendation.  For the $$$ I spent last year chasing what I thought was an ignition problem I could have installed two fuel pressure gauges with isolators!!!  Not to mention the lost laps in the Kastler Cup....
> 
> Phil Gott
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Feb 28, 2019 3:12 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT gauge installation
> 
> I've always heard that if you have a balance tube between front and rear carb that you want to run in 1 and 4 so you can better isolate which carb you want to adjust.
> I have mine in 1 and 4 but run webers so no balance tube.  I see up to 1450 F at the end of long straights.  Much more than that and I start to transfer aluminum from the piston to the cylinder walls.  I think there's some variation in temp readings between different probes and gauges, I don't know what the accuracy really is.
> It's a great troubleshooting tool when the car starts to run like crap.  Another helpful tools is a fuel pressure gauge (with isolator so you don't pipe gas into the passenger compartment).  Pressure too high overruns the floats.  To low and you've got something funny with the feed like a regulator / pump going bad or you forgot to put gas in the car.
> - Tony
>> On 2/27/2019 6:10 PM, Barr, Scott via Fot wrote:
> 
> Interesting – why not 1 and 4 or 2 and 3?
>  
> Scott (B.)
>  
> From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Rick Parent via Fot
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 2:20 PM
> To: John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com>; Terry Stetler <tlizzard at msn.com>
> Cc: Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT gauge installation
>  
>  
> If you are using SU's I would use Cylinders 1 and 3 or 2 and 4. If you are using dual Webers I prefer the same as above but any two will do really.
> On Wednesday, February 27, 2019, 1:00:53 AM EST, Terry Stetler via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>  
>  
> One and Four.  Typically those would run the leaner than Two and Three.
>  
> Terry Stetler
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of John Styduhar via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 12:30:15 PM
> To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] EGT gauge installation
>  
> I need some tips on installation of a dual probe EGT gauge on the TR4 race engine with twin Strombergs-
> What two cylinder to use for probes.
> Optimum EG temperature for tuning purposes.
>  
>  
> Thanks 
>  
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