[Fot] Fwd: Crown and pinion gear break in

[Bob Kramer]

I would add that if you buy the same brand bearing you can grind out the ID
of the old races to make it easier to remove them for test assemblies.

Bob Kramer

On Tue, Sep 11, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

> On 9/10/2018 3:41 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote:
>
> I can't answer that but one could measure the dimension of the pinion head
> and subtract it from the total shown to get the depth you would want.
>
> Bob Kramer
>
>
> I suspect that there are variations in parts due to manufacturing errors,
> tolerances stacking up, etc.  Most of the parts made at the time were not
> subject to the sort of scrutiny and computer-controlled measurements that
> are common today (although even that isn't a guarantee of uniformity--I had
> to redo a bunch of Toyota Supra IRS diffs in the early `80s because the
> computer that assembled them was misprogrammed and it swapped the shim
> stacks for the carrier bearings left to right).
>
> That said, the safest way to get the diff repaired properly is attention
> to the shims when disassembling, and then putting the shims back in the
> same thicknesses and checking for the proper engagement pattern.  It does
> require some educated guesswork, and, often, disassembling and assembling a
> couple of times, but, if the pattern is right, the diff will be reliable.
> I'd also recommend using hard shims in place of crush spacers on the pinion
> whenever possible if the pinion originally used those.  It also is a bit
> easier if one uses the case spreader judiciously on those housings
> requiring same, and doesn't crank it up too much.  Spread the case just
> enough to get the carrier and bearings out.  Figuring out the shim packs
> will be easier.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
>
>
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