[Fot] FW: Failed Parts Alert

Tue May 15 08:48:01 MDT 2018

Dry powder mag is pretty much the standard on ferrous, "liquid mag" will catch finer cracks.
For non-ferrous, dye penetrant/developer or "zyglo", which is dye check with a black light.
All methods require clean parts and a set of good eyeballs.
The cracks are out there, we just gotta find them in time...
Glen

-----Original Message-----
From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, May 15, 2018 8:54 am
Subject: [Fot] FW:  Failed Parts Alert

Wow I had always heard just the opposite.
Anyone need a Magnaflux Dye kit??????

MARK CRAIG
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211
www.dieselperformanceparts.com

Phone: 615-834-0066
Fax: 615-834-9923
Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com

From:chasgee22 at gmail.com [mailto:chasgee22 at gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 11:11 PM
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: DPPI - Mark Craig <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>;fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Failed Parts Alert

Mag inspection is always better than penetrant.  Penetrant requires the cracks be open to the surface, mag doesn’t.  The only reason to use penetrant over mag is when the material you are checking is not ferromagnetic.

Chuck

On May 14, 2018, at 5:47 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Interesting- I’ve had bad luck with the dye Pegasus sells- mangaflux shows cracks it didn’t.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2018, at 6:05 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:

Great, I got one set of Canley and they rest are stockers and I just bought a dye penetrant set that allows me to do it at home. I got enough Magnaflux brand dyes and developers in a kit to last me years at about 100.00 bucks on e bay. You might want to check it out as it’s more sensitive from what I know as compared to magnufluxing a part.

<image001.png>

<image002.png>

MARK CRAIG
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211
www.dieselperformanceparts.com

<image003.jpg><image004.jpg> <image005.jpg> <image006.jpg>

Phone: 615-834-0066
Fax: 615-834-9923
Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com

From: Scott Janzen [mailto:sjanzen at me.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 4:59 PM
To: DPPI - Mark Craig <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Failed Parts Alert

Sure- still have both failed pieces.  Fortunately they did not totally fail in action!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2018, at 5:56 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig <info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:

Any chance you’d take some pics of the actual failed part with some dots or arrows where you are seeing the cracks for us so we know better where to look for them??

<image001.png>

MARK CRAIG
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211
www.dieselperformanceparts.com

<image002.jpg><image003.jpg> <image004.jpg> <image005.jpg>

Phone: 615-834-0066
Fax: 615-834-9923
Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com

From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scott Janzen via Fot
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 11:18 AM
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Failed Parts Alert

I’ve been using the trunnionless front suspension vertical link on my GT6 that Canley Classics sells for the past two years.  I’ve now had two fail the annual magnaflux tests.  They cracked in different locations, one right at the machining line for the flat for the stub axle nut, on the back side where the steering arm passes through, and one on the upright at what appeared to be a casting mark, near the bump you see in the photo below.  Neither crack was visible to the eye. The upright Canley sells no longer looks exactly like the photo - it now has a machined area on the back side, away from the wheel, much like stock ones.  Maybe I just had bad luck, but between two cracks and some binding issues at the ball joint I had to rectify, I would no longer recommend these.

I started using the Canley units when the stock ones developed cracks in the traditional place at the top end of the threads where the trunnion is.

I have now installed uprights I got from Jigsaw Racing https://jigsawracingservices.com - Mark Field, in England.  The main difference from stock is they are not drilled for a grease fitting or grease boring down into the trunnion, which should make them stronger where the stock ones usually fail.  Mark races Spitfires and GT6s for himself and for customers in vintage racing and claims he has never had a failure.  He further claims that the units are made in the original forging molds and by the same people that made the Stanpart units.

Main point is, even though it’s a pain, pull your critical parts off and get them magnafluxed at least once in a while.  I’ve become paranoid and this is now an annual exercise.  The machine shop I go to usually does it for free while I am watching, probably because I’m usually dropping off engine parts where the real dollars get spent!  

<image006.png>

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