[Fot] GT6'rs

[Brian Dennis]

As Scott mentioned by the time and work invested to get the sump out without pulling the motor you might as well just finish properly and pull the motor. I have done the gasket without pulling the motor but is not worth it unless you are at the the track without an engine lift just trying to finish the event. Also as already suggested consider looking closely at the alloy sealing block. I am also a firm believer in the rubberized fiber gasket with copper RTV. The RTV especially around the sealing block and wood wedges.Brian Spitsix Hillclimb Special 


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On Sunday, January 21, 2018, 1:55 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hello again, Brian.  To add to my response to you earlier, Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance.  I have to check my notes, but I believe that when I lifted the engine, the tranny was out of the car, so I would not have had the clearance problem.  Perhaps if you did not want to get that far into the project, you could drop the pan enough to cut the gasket out and put a new one in and use some silicone gasket cement or similar to seal where you cut the new gasket. Not the best solution, but with that and venting as Scott mentions, it may be an easy fix to take care of the problem.
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Brian Schirano <bschirano at yahoo.com>
Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 12:09 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs

I’ve never done it.  Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it.  If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift.
Venting - I ended up with a 1” and a 1/2” hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc.  The 1/2” hose was not enough, so now there are two.  Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn’t work.
If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue.


On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
OK GT6 guys...
Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem.Is a partial lift possible to do this?
It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). 

2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way?
Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March
ThanksBrian
26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell 
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