[Fot] Starter Solenoid

Bill Babcock ponobill at gmail.com
Sun Mar 26 08:32:00 MDT 2017


Ah, you’re thinking that the integrated solenoid makes the starter gear engage. no, it’s just a high-current relay—functionally identical to the separate solenoid the old Luca unit uses. I can’t think of a purpose to have a second solenoid—don’t know why they call that particular relay a Solenoid . The bendix engages by drag on a helical actuator. Purely mechanical in every starter I’ve ever seen. 


> On Mar 26, 2017, at 5:18 AM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Your’re right — what I meant to say was that I shorted from the terminal with the incoming heavy lead to the small terminal that has the starter switch lead on it.  That activates the solenoid rather than bypassing it, which likely simply spins the starter motor and doesn’t move the bendix.
> 
> Duncan Charlton
> Elgin, Texas USA
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2017, at 10:05 PM, Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com <mailto:ponobill at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> If you short across the big terminals you eliminate the integrated solenoid. 
>> 
>> I have seen people bypass the integrated solenoid and use an external one, but my experience with the gear reduction starters is that they fail in the connection to the field coil, and rarely anywhere else. 
>>> On Mar 25, 2017, at 6:28 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Unless…  
>>> 
>>> We’ve had two cars that had starting problems that were cured by using a second solenoid.  The actual problem with both was most likely due to a voltage loss between the battery, the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.  
>>> 
>>> The Ford solenoid requires very low voltage (something like 2 volts) to engage, whereas the one on my (German) Opel 1900 and the one on the 1978 Datsun 280Z clearly required a lot more.  I could short across the big terminals to get the car to start, so I knew the starter motor and the integrated solenoid were both good.  
>>> 
>>> Duncan Charlton
>>> Elgin, Texas USA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 25, 2017, at 6:32 PM, Bill Babcock via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Are you guys not using the gear reduction starters? The built in solenoid in the starters is a very reliable part. If you’re using a solenoid to activate the solenoid, I think you have one too many. 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 25, 2017, at 1:48 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Napa auto parts has a part number ST51. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> We went with as an emergency repair to replace a broken Lucas at the track on a Sunday. They were the only ones in the town open that had anything. The counter person spent an hour researching what they had that would work. It works. Very reliable. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I think its actually for 60's era Ford trucks. The Tr4 does not seem to mind or be insulted by it any way.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Good Luck, 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Paul
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 25, 2017, at 2:52 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I replaced my Lucas unit (with button) with one from the local Farm and Fleet.  Has been dead reliable for 15 years.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Tony Drews
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> At 02:08 PM 3/25/2017, Bob Totten via Fot wrote:
>>>>>>> Group wisdom on Starter Solenoids for our Triumph's ? 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Who sells the better quality Lucas (?) units as my starting problem has pointed to the solenoid is not functioning properly.  Would also be interested in learning about any alternative brand that would be better in the long run.  In 20 years of running my Spit my 5th unit is on the fritz or is that the life span for these things?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Curious,
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Bob T
>>>>>>> '64 Spit GT  autocrosser
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> PS  I have inspected and tested the starter, and had it tested at the local Advance Auto Parts and it functions just fine(?).
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