[Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward

[Jack Brooks]

John (and Bill),

 

Thanks for the good/bad news.  I’ve been sitting on (what I thought was) a set of very nice TR4 trunnions and vertical links and just found out (Thanks Bill!) that they are TR6 parts. That adds a little complexity.  I thought I just needed a rebuild kit.  I need more parts.  I will likely be sticking with the TR6 parts, as the most equitable solution because I have a nice set of original TR6 trunnions to work with.  

 

For those reading and wondering why I am looking at doing this in the spring/summer season instead of the fall, my 21 year old son, who had put “dibs” on the car when I am ready to give it up needs to learn how to work on it.  He is home from college for the summer with a local internship.  He is going to learn how to work on the TR3 and the front end is a good task that has been put off for a while.  

 

I greatly appreciate all of the help,

 

Jack

 

From: John Styduhar [mailto:johnstydo at gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 3:37 AM
To: Jack Brooks <JIBrooks at live.com>
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 front end conversion to TR6 parts: Camber - moving the ball joint inward

 

Jack, if you are going to do this conversion you will also need to acquire the later model lower control arms (or modify your lower control arms if possible) because the trunnion assembly for a TR6 uses a thru bolt and not the shaft type on the earlier TRs.  You will also need to retrofit the inner lower control arm bushings from the later model onto the TR3 mounting points. Everything will bolt together. 

 

On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 1:34 AM, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks at live.com <mailto:JIBrooks at live.com> > wrote:

I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR6 parts.  I will use “the” Jag ball joint and shim it as required.  Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward and produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm.  I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at least an inch in this way.  I know I can’t go as far as those of you who have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent compromise.  I am concerned though, as this seems too easy.  None of you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining substantial structure.

 

So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint further inboard not a good solution?  What am I missing?

Thanks in advance,

 

Jack


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