[Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions

Tue Jun 28 14:17:47 MDT 2016

Way back in 1996, when my local machine shop and I were learning the TR3 engine together, he laughed at the felt strips and pulled down a dusty, ancient box of sealing “rope” off a top shelf. We soaked it in Indian Head shellac and hammered it tightly into the void. I had plenty of other problems with that engine but leaking around the rear main cap wasn’t one of them. 

Rather than leave you wondering I struggle mightily with head gasket failures. That is why I am so talented at replacing them to this day. Eventually we figured out that one of the rearmost  studs was  walking because the threads in the block I had were compromised. It finally called out to me with a couple of cracks on the water jacket side; “ hey dumb ass, look at me!”  I think later blocks have more meat in that area, or maybe they have just rusted away less.

From: Duncan Charlton [mailto:duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:39 PM
To: Bob Kramer
Cc: John Styduhar; STEPHEN BOROWSKI; FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions

I’ve heard people say not to use the felt (using strips of torn-up T-shirt soaked in Indian Head shellac instead, packing it in with a punch) but never yet heard anyone say not to use Indian Head.  I’m curious too.

Duncan Charlton

Elgin, Texas USA

On Jun 28, 2016, at 12:12 PM, Bob Kramer <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com> wrote:

OK, I’ll bite, what not use the Indian Head sealant? I’ve had good luck with that, although I fill the very top (actually bottom) of the cap recess with RTV.

From: Fot [ <mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net> mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Styduhar
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 7:37 AM
To: STEPHEN BOROWSKI
Cc: FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions

I also have the center plug hole on the main oil galley tapped to install an NPT adapter for the oil line from my accumulator. 

Have the shop check the alignment of the mains and line hone if necessary.

Machine the center main cap to install a reinforcing strap.

Bottom tap all head stud holes.

Remove and tap the front and rear main oil galley plugs for flush-fit NPT fittings. Have this done on the cylinder head cooling plug.

Remove the crank scroll and install a rear main seal conversion. Do not use Indian Head Shellac on the felt seals.

Grind unnecessary casting material from the inside and outside of the block, particularly in the cooling areas. 

If needed, clean up the mating surfaces for the liner gaskets. 

On Mon, Jun 27, 2016 at 4:13 PM, STEPHEN BOROWSKI < <mailto:biznzman at pacbell.net> biznzman at pacbell.net> wrote:

Hello All,

I disassembled my TR4 race car engine this past week. Last time I rebuilt it was 1987. Last time I raced it was 1988. Probably had five or six race weekends on the engine but its been sitting for almost twenty years! It is amazing everything looks very good. Rod and Main bearings show minimal ware and the same with the pistons and liners. G3 cam and followers including head and valves all look good. Cam bearings look questionable...

So I plan on installing new cam bearings, Rods & Mains. Any suggestions as to what brand and where to buy them?

I will deck the block. Any suggestions as to other machining I should do to the block? 

The crank looks fine but I haven't measured it yet. What clearances should I run?

I do plan on balancing and polishing it.

Thanks for any input.

Steve and son Matthew

Florida TR4

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