[Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions

[R. John Lye]

Just the major interior surfaces of the block, not the oil galleries or water
passages, nor the surfaces where the bearings sit, etc.  As you note,
you don't want to block any oil or water passages, nor affect anything
that requires clearances.  I hope that makes sense. 
 
John

On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 14:53:10 +0000 (UTC), Brian Schirano  wrote:

       Curious, are you all talking just major surfaces where oil 
drains, or are you somehow talking water passages? I'd love to minimize 
all that corrosion but would hate to clog anything up with paint
 
 
26A GT6+, 28 TR6
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell 
BSchirano at yahoo.com

-------------------------
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions

I would also add to paint the inside of the block with
Glyptal (now apparently an Eastwood product:
http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html). 
This helps seal the block and gets the oil to drain
back to the sump a little more quickly. 
 
John

On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 08:37:26 -0400, John Styduhar  wrote:

       I also have the center plug hole on the main oil galley tapped 
to install an NPT adapter for the oil line from my accumulator. 
Have the shop check the alignment of the mains and line hone if necessary. 
Machine the center main cap to install a reinforcing strap. 
Bottom tap all head stud holes. 
Remove and tap the front and rear main oil galley plugs for flush-fit 
NPT fittings. Have this done on the cylinder head cooling plug. 
Remove the crank scroll and install a rear main seal conversion. Do not 
use Indian Head Shellac on the felt seals. 
Grind unnecessary casting material from the inside and outside of the 
block, particularly in the cooling areas. 
If needed, clean up the mating surfaces for the liner gaskets. 
 

On Mon, Jun 27, 2016 at 4:13 PM, STEPHEN BOROWSKI  wrote:

       Hello All,
I disassembled my TR4 race car engine this past week. Last time I 
rebuilt it was 1987. Last time I raced it was 1988. Probably had five 
or six race weekends on the engine but its been sitting for almost 
twenty years! It is amazing everything looks very good. Rod and Main 
bearings show minimal ware and the same with the pistons and liners. G3 
cam and followers including head and valves all look good. Cam bearings 
look questionable... 
 
So I plan on installing new cam bearings, Rods & Mains. Any suggestions 
as to what brand and where to buy them?
I will deck the block. Any suggestions as to other machining I should 
do to the block?
 
The crank looks fine but I haven't measured it yet. What clearances 
should I run?
I do plan on balancing and polishing it. 
 
Thanks for any input. 
 
Steve and son Matthew
Florida TR4
 
 
 
 

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo@gmail.com

-------------------------

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl@gt-classics.com

--
Thanks,
John

rjl at gt-classics.com
 

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano@yahoo.com

--
Thanks,
John

rjl at gt-classics.com
 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/fot/attachments/20160628/6a04118d/attachment-0001.htm>