[Fot] TR4 Block work suggestions
R. John Lye
rjl at gt-classics.com
Tue Jun 28 07:55:29 MDT 2016
I would also add to paint the inside of the block with
Glyptal (now apparently an Eastwood product:
http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html).
This helps seal the block and gets the oil to drain
back to the sump a little more quickly.
John
On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 08:37:26 -0400, John Styduhar wrote:
I also have the center plug hole on the main oil galley tapped
to install an NPT adapter for the oil line from my accumulator.
Have the shop check the alignment of the mains and line hone if necessary.
Machine the center main cap to install a reinforcing strap.
Bottom tap all head stud holes.
Remove and tap the front and rear main oil galley plugs for flush-fit
NPT fittings. Have this done on the cylinder head cooling plug.
Remove the crank scroll and install a rear main seal conversion. Do not
use Indian Head Shellac on the felt seals.
Grind unnecessary casting material from the inside and outside of the
block, particularly in the cooling areas.
If needed, clean up the mating surfaces for the liner gaskets.
On Mon, Jun 27, 2016 at 4:13 PM, STEPHEN BOROWSKI wrote:
Hello All,
I disassembled my TR4 race car engine this past week. Last time I
rebuilt it was 1987. Last time I raced it was 1988. Probably had five
or six race weekends on the engine but its been sitting for almost
twenty years! It is amazing everything looks very good. Rod and Main
bearings show minimal ware and the same with the pistons and liners. G3
cam and followers including head and valves all look good. Cam bearings
look questionable...
So I plan on installing new cam bearings, Rods & Mains. Any suggestions
as to what brand and where to buy them?
I will deck the block. Any suggestions as to other machining I should
do to the block?
The crank looks fine but I haven't measured it yet. What clearances
should I run?
I do plan on balancing and polishing it.
Thanks for any input.
Steve and son Matthew
Florida TR4
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Thanks,
John
rjl at gt-classics.com
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