[Fot] Rear Main Oil Seal Options

rkramer3 at austin.rr.com rkramer3 at austin.rr.com
Mon Feb 23 16:26:00 MST 2015


So that's how you guys get perfectly sealed engines. I just install them with all the fiddle I can fettle and keep my fingers crossed.

Bob Kramer
rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

---- fubog1 via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: 
> The split seals (series Land Rover) work as intended.
Problems are usually resultant from any one or combination of poor quality seals, machining +/- on the 2-piece housing, and lack of concentricity between the housing and housing bore in the block (especially if the block has been align-bored).
The book would say "some degree of fitting may be required". It's a fussy operation, it's easy to screw up the installation but they do work.
Also when I'm done, I fill the cavity behind the rear main with oil, with the block inverted, to check for leaks. It's a lot better to find it on the bench before it goes in the car

Glen

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg And Alison Blake via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
Cc: FOT List Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>; Dan <adcronin at gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 23, 2015 2:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Main Oil Seal Options



I clean followed by smearing top side with RTV. Does not leak but I may have gotten lucky. 




On Feb 21, 2015, at 8:50 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:



Have you tried degreasing followed by green (penetrating grade) Loc-Tite?


Ir how about expanding the ends with a hammer and a ball bearing slightly larger than the bore of the tube?
Duncan
(Texas)

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 21, 2015, at 2:46 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:



I agree with Chris on this.  Don't bother welding it, just run theseal that fits it.  I am running that crankshaft in my race TR-4 anduse the Lip Seal that fits it.  If it leaks, it doesn't leak much -I have worse leaks elsewhere so it's a little hard to tell.  Dodrill the extra holes through the rear main parallel to the existingdrain hole to allow more oil to drain back from between the bearing andthe seal.

That reminds me - anyone have any great tips on getting the pushrod tubesin the head to not leak?

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 09:40 PM 2/20/2015, Dan via Fot wrote:

2/20
Good Evening All
I Am reaching out to all TR owners for your thoughts and adviceconcerning a decision I will soon need to confront.

Several years ago I went in on a "pool purchase" led by Mordy Dand have a beautiful billet steel Cower crank---built without the rearscroll and to the 2.50" dia. that was used at the time for the thennew and improved "Lip Seal"  I was planning on using.

Fast forward to today and the really new Viton rear seal kit which I havepurchased and would really like to use now that the engine is finallygetting built.  

I am meeting with a couple of crankshaft specialists here in the DetroitMetro Area the first of the week to see if they think they can build up(with weld) the area that the scroll would have occupied and machine itback to match the stock crank configuration in order to use the VitonSeal.  This leads me to ask two questions:
1)Has anyone had this done or heard of it being done and if so anycautions or suggestions or lessons learned?

2)Has anyone tried to use the Viton Seal on a crank that has had thescroll machined off and what has been the end result of this experiment,or would it be better to just use the now old "lip seal" andtighten up the carrier and lip seal and shorten the spring a bit to tryand grip the 2.50 diameter surface a bit closer.?

Any thoughts, cautions, theories, etc any of you have or could share(either via the list or privately) will be most appreciated.  I havea lot of cool things going into this motor build and really do not wantto screw it up doing something I do not fully understand.

Thanks, 
Dan Cronin
adcronin at gmail.com
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