[Fot] Rear Main Oil Seal Options

[Duncan Charlton]

Have you tried degreasing followed by green (penetrating grade) Loc-Tite?

Ir how about expanding the ends with a hammer and a ball bearing slightly larger than the bore of the tube?
Duncan
(Texas)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 21, 2015, at 2:46 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I agree with Chris on this.  Don't bother welding it, just run the seal that fits it.  I am running that crankshaft in my race TR-4 and use the Lip Seal that fits it.  If it leaks, it doesn't leak much - I have worse leaks elsewhere so it's a little hard to tell.  Do drill the extra holes through the rear main parallel to the existing drain hole to allow more oil to drain back from between the bearing and the seal.
> 
> That reminds me - anyone have any great tips on getting the pushrod tubes in the head to not leak?
> 
> Cheers, Tony Drews
> 
> At 09:40 PM 2/20/2015, Dan via Fot wrote:
>> 2/20 
>> Good Evening All
>> I Am reaching out to all TR owners for your thoughts and advice concerning a decision I will soon need to confront.
>> 
>> Several years ago I went in on a "pool purchase" led by Mordy D and have a beautiful billet steel Cower crank---built without the rear scroll and to the 2.50" dia. that was used at the time for the then new and improved "Lip Seal"  I was planning on using. 
>> 
>> Fast forward to today and the really new Viton rear seal kit which I have purchased and would really like to use now that the engine is finally getting built.  
>> 
>> I am meeting with a couple of crankshaft specialists here in the Detroit Metro Area the first of the week to see if they think they can build up (with weld) the area that the scroll would have occupied and machine it back to match the stock crank configuration in order to use the Viton Seal.  This leads me to ask two questions:
>> 1)Has anyone had this done or heard of it being done and if so any cautions or suggestions or lessons learned?
>> 
>> 2)Has anyone tried to use the Viton Seal on a crank that has had the scroll machined off and what has been the end result of this experiment, or would it be better to just use the now old "lip seal" and tighten up the carrier and lip seal and shorten the spring a bit to try and grip the 2.50 diameter surface a bit closer.?
>> 
>> Any thoughts, cautions, theories, etc any of you have or could share (either via the list or privately) will be most appreciated.  I have a lot of cool things going into this motor build and really do not want to screw it up doing something I do not fully understand.
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> Dan Cronin
>> adcronin at gmail.com
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> 
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