[Fot] GT6 Connecting rods

Wed Dec 9 08:07:55 MST 2015

Thanks for the replies.
    This leaves me with this question. Has anyone had an engine failure
directly related to a failed stock connecting rod that had been properly
modified according to Kas's directions?
 Thanks .  P.J.

On Wed, Dec 9, 2015 at 8:51 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The GT6 crank can withstand high RPMs, unlike the stroked TR6 crank.  A
> stock crank, balanced, nitrided and straight, is good for over 7,000 rpm
> with no issues.
>
> On Dec 9, 2015, at 9:47 AM, John Hasty wrote:
>
> No doubt that quality rods and crank are a must have for a race motor.
> Don't know what kind of cranks you GT6 guys use, but if you go for a billet
> crank I suggest you have the rod journals sized to fit good old American
> V8's...the choice of good rods in what ever length you want is infinite and
> at half the price of Carillo's...not to mention that the choice of bearings
> is also infinite...we are using Manley H beam rods from a Ford modular
> engine in one motor and Scat H beam chevy rods in the other one and have
> had no problems turning the TR3 motor to 6500 and occasionally 7000.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen
> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 9:07 AM
> To: Spitfire Racing
> Cc: FOT list
> Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
>
> I think it depends on what you want to do with the car.  Both my race
> motors have Carillo rods in them - one component I have no worries about.
> Beware those pesky little bolts on the Carillos - use a stretch gauge, not
> a torque wrench, cuz if you over-stretch one they are about $45 each, but I
> digress.
>
> My motor sees 7,000 rpm five times a lap at Summit Point, so in a 12 lap
> race that's 60 cycles to redline over about 20 minutes. I like having parts
> I can rely on.  There are enough other weak points in a GT6 to fix!
>
> When I originally got this car, it had six beautifully lightened, balanced
> and shot peened stock rods with ARP bolts. You could do that for a lot less
> money and probably be fine for 6,000 rpm regularly.
>
> So, reliable competitive race car (Carillo), or fast street car/back half
> of the pack race car (improved stock), or fast race car if it doesn't blow
> up first (Chinese)?  Keep in mind that back in the day they ran stock rods
> to 8,000 rpm.
> If you are on a budget (we all are at some level, right?) and want to get
> on the track sooner than later - go for "stock" and know the limitations of
> the engine.  You can always upgrade later- that engine will not be "one and
> done", so you will have it apart every other year at a minimum and can swap
> out rods.
> But I agree with Russ- don't buy the knockoffs and delude yourself that
> they are as good as the real stuff- that will just lead to catastrophe down
> the road.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> On Dec 9, 2015, at 8:02 AM, Spitfire Racing <spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
> A properly built and modified race engine represents a mighty investment
> not only of dollars but of time. Is that really where you want to pinch
> pennies?
> After all, with the exception of pistons and crank that is one of the
> primary components and all it takes is one piece inside an engine to reduce
> all your work and investment to nothing more than scrap metal. One seized
> valve, or substandard bolt even can be a disaster. It doesn't take much.
> Realize all the ancillary invested expenditures that are also at risk like
> a weekend's entry fee you lose in an engine failure; the cost of time off
> from work to go to a race weekend; the cost of food and lodging for the
> race outing and the cost of just getting there. When asked, I usually
> advise folks to figure a race weekend is ~$1000 minimum when you roll all
> in.
>
> A number of racers have run Pauter rods as stated before by Bill and these
> do present a less expensive alternative. I had the opportunity to rebuild
> an engine last year with Pauter rods and they were quite substantial and
> were well designed, constructed and balanced. Personally I have seen far
> too many Chinese knock-offs; reproductions (call them what you will), that
> fail to come close to the parts they try to mimic.
> I suggest you perhaps delay your build until your war chest allows for top
> quality internals. Do it once and do it right the first time and reduce the
> potential for disappointing expensive disaster.
>
> Russ Moore
> Spitfire #49
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie
> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 6:22 AM
> To: McKearn McKearn
> Cc: FOT list
> Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
>
> Although I was initially very wary, they have worked well for over 1,000
> race miles in our (horror) MGB engine.
>
> Jamie Palmer
>
>
> On Dec 8, 2015, at 11:52 PM, McKearn McKearn <mckearn2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Gents.
>
>  I am looking for feedback on the MaxSpeeding connecting rods for GT6.
>
> Can't afford Carrillos and I'm hoping these are good. Also am still
> searching for an aluminum flywheel without having something custom made.
> and would like input on what type of clutch to use as well . Lets call it a
> race car for the sake of argument....
>
>                               Thanks.  P.J.
>
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