[Fot] Photos

Thu Aug 13 08:06:47 MDT 2015

Steve...

Memories.  I certainly know Denny, and I knew Pop Wilson as well.  

Pop used to come visit our paddock when we raced the GATEWAY HISTORICS (an early Joe Marchetti event).  Pop was a sort of TRIUMP icon and visiting his place was full of 'special' TRIUMPH treasures.  Back in those days any improvements you made to your car had to be from TRIUMPH, and POP still had that stuff.

Bill Dentinger

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Borowski <biznzman at pacbell.net>
To: Kenneth Knight <kknight at klaenv.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Aug 13, 2015 1:01 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Photos

Hello Ken, 
My TR4 is a 1963 (original titled as a 1962 ?). I bought it around 1982 from Pop Wilson, father of Deny Wilson (SCCA Nationals winner in a TR6 back in the 80 & 90s). It has had many owners and raced in many organizations. The last time I raced it was 1989 in the last race at riverside raceway in CA. A four hour endurance race then they closed the track permanently. The car has a long history as a race car as early as 1964. Its been siting at my home in San Diego under cover for 26 years. Recently my son and I tore it down to the bare frame and are rebuilding every single part of it. So I am looking for input from others as to modifications & improvements. Naturally I will need many parts and will contact you and others as we move along. We are finished with modifying the frame and have painted it BRG. I have just got the rear end housing back, modified to take ford type HD axils. I am currently installing a limited slip (Locker) with a 4:11 gear. I am building the leaf spring pack now. Do you know which extra spring to add to the pack? I read to use one extra middle size spring but I think it would be better to use one extra longest spring (cut of the ends) as the car does bottom out on the frame and the old Blue Streak 15 inch tires would burn the stock fender flair. The longer spring should help to limit the full travel, I think? 

Yes I have purchased the HD front axils and will get the Goodparts aloy hubs with the bigger bearings. I have a pair of TR6 uprights which I have taken the old small axils out. Yes the steering rack will be solid mounted and I will shim it to make it as level as possible. I assume I will use the TR6 smaller caliper brackets and get all new calipers, disks and brakes. Any suggestions? I have torn the motor down and it looks in good shape. It had a G3 cam and modified stock pistons. I rebuilt it many times thirty years ago. I’m sure Ill be updating as many parts as possible, cam, pistons, crank improvement / seal, etc. So send me your latest list of parts. I have three old broken race transmissions, two of them A type OD. I will try to make one good one or move to the Toyota trans, TBD. The body goes to the shop next month after I have sandblaster the entire car to bare metal. I like the side air exhausts you put on your car! Did you use some existing duct. If so what is it? If you just cut the fender please send me the measurements and a couple of pictures as I want to do the same. 

I will look up the steering arms and will send you a picture. If I don’t use them and they are the ones your looking for, Im sure we can work something out.  

I’ll send some pictures of the car in the next e-mail if I can figure out how this MAC works? 

Thank You, 

Steve 

I  

On Aug 12, 2015, at 12:52 PM, Kenneth Knight <     kknight at klaenv.com> wrote:    

       Steve:      

       So what year TR is your racer?      

       There are several steering arms, possible 3 or 4 as far as I can tell.  I think you received an email about this from another FOT member.  The length is the difference.  Moss used to sell a TR Parts manual that had all of the original part #’s in it, not sure if it still available.  It is not so much that that length will influence bump steer (except in amount of movement due to length of arm) it is the positon of the rack in relation to the arm.  Your steering rack should be mounted on those aluminum blocks that are sold (Moss 667-288), not soft mounts.  Then you set suspension at ride height of race car and shim from there.  In the picture I have sent I converted my quick steer rack to rod ends.  Then I use steel spacers to get rack arms level with suspension in the static resting position.  This will get rid of most, not all, of bump steer.  It also depends on how much travel you have, which is related to  length of springs, sway bars and a  host of other issues.  Getting rid of bump steer with stock tie rod ends is hard because they are tapered and you can’t shim them.  That is why I converted my rack.      

       The arms that I use have part #3758 (left) and if you wind up having, but not needing, this arm I would buy it.        

       Oh, and make sure you upgrade to new HD stub axle (661-293).  Those 45+ year old axles can snap in a race car and hurt you!  Plus they flex and screw up your braking.        

       Shameless commerce (as tappet brothers on NPR used to say) and just to let you know.  I have a side TR racing parts business.  I supply alum distributor pedestals, new race cams, timing gears, ported heads and other parts.  I am also a Moss distributor, my cost is around 25% of retail and I charge +10% over invoice for parts and they can be dropped shipped to you.  I use PayPal.      

       I attached a photo of my car with Kastner and the Kastner Cup which I won at Road America in 2013.  Always happy to help a fellow racer if I can.      

       Cheers, Ken      

         From:          John Ellis [mailto:jellis at klaenv.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 9:15 AM
To: 'Kenneth Knight'
Subject: Photos        

Here you go.      

       John Ellis, GISP      

       GIS Manager      

       Knight & Leavitt Associates, Inc.      

       4105 Wagon Trail Ave      

       Las Vegas, NV 89118      

       Email: jellis at klaenv.com      

       Website: www.klaenv.com      

       Phone: (702)897-2628      

       Fax: (702) 897-8223      

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