[Fot] Extended bottoming tap for TR4 engine

davehogye dlhogye at comcast.net
Wed Jan 8 19:53:43 MST 2014


Excellent advice Bob and Steve. 
Taps can cut and or shave material off the original threads. If you can feel them cutting, that's probably what they are doing. All that's really needed is to clean the threads. I chased the threads just as suggested here with the factory grooved studs, relatively recently, during my first "tractor motor" build and made sure the new studs went in and out cleanly by hand. The grooves in the factory studs will collect the debris. 


Dave H. 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Yott" <tr4 at wi.rr.com> 
To: "Bob Kramer" <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com>, "Greg And Alison Blake" <ablake2 at austin.rr.com> 
Cc: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 3:38:55 PM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Extended bottoming tap for TR4 engine 

Just my opinion after many tractor motor rebuilds in all my years. I have 
one of the long taps for this purpose and thought like many that I must 
clean out those threads with a tap. Keep in mind that I still "chase" all 
the other holes in the block but like Bob clean out the threads with a 
standard head bolt. Why? After I began using a tap to clean out the 
threads I had a couple of these holes pull out when doing a final torque 
using ARP head studs. Since then I have gone back to only cleaning up the 
threads with an old bolt and wire brush. Having one of the deep holes strip 
out is a maddening problem and not easily repaired and usually requires a 
new block! 

The grooves on the studs are there to prevent oil from building up under the 
stud which can cause a hydraulic lock and strip out the threads also. I 
learned this working at Mercedes in the way back years.... 

I'm just saying..... be very careful!!! 

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message----- 
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of Bob Kramer 
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2014 3:27 PM 
To: Greg And Alison Blake 
Cc: FOT 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Extended bottoming tap for TR4 engine 

I just use old style Triumph studs with the grooves cut into the threads to 
catch swarf, and lots of in and outs until they thread in by hand. This gas 
always worked for me, but I suppose I should step up my game, 

Bob Kramer 
Sent from my iPhone 

> On Jan 8, 2014, at 2:57 PM, Greg And Alison Blake 
> <ablake2 at austin.rr.com> 
wrote: 
> 
> I just use a normal length bottoming tap and use a 1/4 socket 
> extension to reach the bottom. You'll want to find the right size 
> socket to marry up 
with 
> the tap and then use some tape or something in case the socket wants 
> to separate from the tap upon removal. 
> 
> 
>> On Jan 8, 2014, at 8:57 AM, marty <trmarty at hotmail.com> wrote: 
>> 
>> Hi John. I have one I made up that you are more than welcome to 
>> borrow if 
> you 
>> would like. If so, email me your address and I can drop it in the mail. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Marty 
>> 
>> 
>>> Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 09:46:04 -0500 
>>> From: johnstydo at gmail.com 
>>> To: fot at autox.team.net 
>>> Subject: [Fot] Extended bottoming tap for TR4 engine 
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have a tool source for a 1/2-13 extended bottoming tap 
>>> to 
> reach 
>>> the four deep head studs on the TR4 pot? Looks like at least 6" OAL. 
>>> Any comments on the value of bottom-tapping blind holes to improve 
>>> stud holding? Thanks _______________________________________________ 
>>> fot at autox.team.net 
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com 
>>> 
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