From joeg at neb.rr.com  Wed May  1 20:06:00 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 21:06:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] LeMans/Sebring Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>

Bill,

The best photos I can find to reference are on the Spitfire & GT6 Magazine
website at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/racers.html

Scroll down to the entry for "The real! ABU 4B factory LeMans" and one photo
shows the graphic you are specifically asking about.  The image isn't the
best, and the lettering is dark enough that I had not noticed it before.

I wonder if the folks at Jigsaw Racing in the UK might have some photos they
would share with you.  There web site has some good information -
http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/7bintro.htm

Best of luck with the effort!

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

------------------------Original Message-------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 17:48:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William T newman " <mnewman at embarqmail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
Message-ID:
	<1604883989.2847178.1367358522645.JavaMail.root at embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Amici:
I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph Spitfire
Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car was purchased
from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has owned the car twice and
his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the Works drivers during the era. I
will be racing SCCA Vintage using the #65, Bolton's number. I plan on
finding more history on the car and may need the help of the listers in the
future. Currently, I am in need of some pictutes of the original Works
Spitfires that show the graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I
need enough clarity in order to determine the proper font and scaling to get
this graphic reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The roof
is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality of the
welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire

From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Thu May  2 07:51:26 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 08:51:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] LeMans/Sebring Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
	<000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVv1a0j6xqVQT0=EJXUUwHJY+rEaDDdfZxQ4rJmMs8HcqA@mail.gmail.com>

There is a decent pic in the small red hardcover book about Triumph
Spitfire and GT6 that is by Robson if I recall correctly.
Mike


On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 9:06 PM, Joe Guinan <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> The best photos I can find to reference are on the Spitfire & GT6 Magazine
> website at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/racers.html
>
> Scroll down to the entry for "The real! ABU 4B factory LeMans" and one
> photo
> shows the graphic you are specifically asking about.  The image isn't the
> best, and the lettering is dark enough that I had not noticed it before.
>
> I wonder if the folks at Jigsaw Racing in the UK might have some photos
> they
> would share with you.  There web site has some good information -
> http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/7bintro.htm
>
> Best of luck with the effort!
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
>
> ------------------------Original Message-------------------------
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 17:48:42 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "William T newman " <mnewman at embarqmail.com>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
> Message-ID:
>         <1604883989.2847178.1367358522645.JavaMail.root at embarqmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Amici:
> I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph Spitfire
> Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car was purchased
> from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has owned the car twice
> and
> his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the Works drivers during the era. I
> will be racing SCCA Vintage using the #65, Bolton's number. I plan on
> finding more history on the car and may need the help of the listers in the
> future. Currently, I am in need of some pictutes of the original Works
> Spitfires that show the graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I
> need enough clarity in order to determine the proper font and scaling to
> get
> this graphic reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
> By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The roof
> is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality of the
> welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
> Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May  2 12:54:57 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:54:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.

From harmug at us.ibm.com  Thu May  2 13:12:11 2013
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:12:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2013 Mitty pics
Message-ID: <OFA0001103.9D044FC6-ON85257B5F.0067C26D-85257B5F.00697CC8@us.ibm.com>

Some pictures from Sports Car Digest from the Mitty last weekend. There are
five pages of pictures, Triumphs are not the featured marque but you do
look good.

http://www.sportscardigest.com/speedfest-classic-motorsports-mitty-2013-report-and-photos/

Mike Harmuth

From jason at multivintage.com  Thu May  2 13:44:02 2013
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:44:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <mailman.6.1367523982.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm not going to make these 1st couple races. Perhaps memorial day at BHF. But more likely fathers day BHF. 
I'll be at RA May 17- 19, but unless a miracle sponsorship deal comes through... I won't be driving.
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost racing
------Original Message------
From: Barr, Scott
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Sent: May 2, 2013 1:54 PM

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From jkhagen at charter.net  Thu May  2 15:20:20 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 17:20:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <5c5bc6dd.619549.13e671e03b9.Webtop.48@charter.net>

John Hagen pulled in today.  Weather maybe ok??  55 and sunny now.  Got 
the TVR with this trip [MG Powered] sorry --but it does have Spit front 
and TR3-4 rear hubs/drums--thats gotta count for something.   John


On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 1:54 PM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's 
> race?
>
> Scott B.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu May  2 15:26:28 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 16:26:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce477b$b76c7150$264553f0$@com>

Ryan and I will be there. We leave in the morning.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barr, Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 1:55 PM
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From igofaster at att.net  Thu May  2 16:40:40 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:40:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
Message-ID: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
group...
APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
'maintaining control' ...  


Bobby Whitehead

http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May  2 17:36:13 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:36:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
In-Reply-To: <20130502195919.39BF142B84@autox.team.net>
References: <20130502195919.39BF142B84@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D84EAE92-2BDE-4300-BF65-3374829C0D10@gdhs.com>

Anyone going to the Glen on June 7 etc?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 3:44 PM, jason at multivintage.com wrote:

> This message cannot be displayed because of the way it is formatted. Ask the
sender to send it again using a different format or email program. text/plain

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May  2 18:01:59 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:01:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>

Congrats Bobby, I hope you still have all your fenders. GT2 is a great class.
I always thought four off meant off the ground. Now I gotta figure out that
black flag thingie.
So, how did you do?
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the
> group...
> APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been
> trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about
> 'maintaining control' ...
>
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net

From dforeman at fooddude.com  Thu May  2 19:27:52 2013
From: dforeman at fooddude.com (dforeman at fooddude.com)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 01:27:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1407508355-1367544505-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-280150198-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>

Bobby, I just returned from 3 day ssca school at msr houston.  During the school u had to drive thru, otherwise it is a suggestion.  That school is a blast, by the way, with the spit broken (but ready for ec) is drove the daily 05 mustang gt straight stock.  Replaced brake pads at end of day 2.  Over 300 track miles at this school.  In the school, there were 3 brand new purpose built camaros, gt2?  They (and I in the spit) will be at tws memorial weekend for the double-i think robert too.  Have idle inn rented for that too if u need...
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:40:40 
To: FoT Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing

My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
group...
APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
'maintaining control' ...  


Bobby Whitehead

http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rikrock at live.com  Fri May  3 09:17:24 2013
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 11:17:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>

Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the hill.
To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't link
to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
definitely worth seeing.

Rich Rock

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Fri May  3 09:37:22 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 15:37:22 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Impressive!

I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle off of
the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate excavated a
large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was helicoptering down track
toward the back gate.  I was just glad I didn't get upside down.  I hate
having to repaint the top of the roll bar.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Rich Rock
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)

Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
hill.
To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't link
to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
definitely worth seeing.

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Fri May  3 10:29:20 2013
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 11:29:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>

Upside down, kinda like what happened to Mark Craig at Savannah! He had video
posted somewhere.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


On May 3, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:

> Impressive!
>
> I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle off
of
> the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate excavated a
> large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was helicoptering down track
> toward the back gate.  I was just glad I didn't get upside down.  I hate
> having to repaint the top of the roll bar.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Rich Rock
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
>
> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
> hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
> pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't
link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
> definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From triosan at gmail.com  Fri May  3 11:13:32 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 10:13:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNCOE=POjJQWcoab3nNDbtcPbLQu1Ot4R6_o6oVjOEoREQ@mail.gmail.com>

Definitely a very cool picture!  Sure a good test of all of Mr. Good's
suspension products -- as I presume he landed well!


On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 8:17 AM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
> hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu
> select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
> pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't
> link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
> definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May  3 11:25:30 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 13:25:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net><BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl><82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
	<8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEB3AAC7AB84B1282F16698222FD592@gdhs.local>

Wow!  I saw Mark's "tumble"  I think I counted 5 rolls... 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
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-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Munson
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 12:29 PM
To: Barr, Scott
Cc: FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)

Upside down, kinda like what happened to Mark Craig at Savannah! He had
video posted somewhere.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


On May 3, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:

> Impressive!
>
> I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle 
> off
of
> the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate 
> excavated a large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was 
> helicoptering down track toward the back gate.  I was just glad I 
> didn't get upside down.  I hate having to repaint the top of the roll bar.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
Behalf
> Of Rich Rock
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
>
> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest 
> the hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu
select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 
> 101-120.. The pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for 
> some reason I can't
link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good 
> shot, definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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From jeffreykelley at charter.net  Fri May  3 11:27:33 2013
From: jeffreykelley at charter.net (Jeff Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 13:27:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
Message-ID: <4aece031.620eba.13e6b6f42a4.Webtop.48@charter.net>

Below is a link to video taken at 1965 24 hrs of LeMans. The pictures 
are a bit grainy but I thinkl you can gather some useful information.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpepDRqcFCo

Jeff Kelley


On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 5:48 PM, William T newman  wrote:

> Amici:
> I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph 
> Spitfire Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car 
> was purchased from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has 
> owned the car twice and his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the 
> Works drivers during the era. I will be racing SCCA Vintage using the 
> #65, Bolton's number. I plan on finding more history on the car and 
> may need the help of the listers in the future. Currently, I am in 
> need of some pictutes of the original Works Spitfires that show the 
> graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I need enough clarity 
> in order to determine the proper font and scaling to get this graphic 
> reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
> By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The 
> roof is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality 
> of the welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
> Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  3 11:43:00 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 12:43:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
Message-ID: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

A M I C I
Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
I am looking for clearance specs.
Thanks
D

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri May  3 16:03:09 2013
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 18:03:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>

I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an 
engine with them right now.

Bob

On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> A M I C I
> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
> I am looking for clearance specs.
> Thanks
> D
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri May  3 17:36:27 2013
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 19:36:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>

I use them in a Spitfire and went with Venolia's recommendation. Been
running them for the past 6 years. No problem handling 8K+

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Davis
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 6:03 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Venolia pistons

I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an engine
with them right now.

Bob

On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> A M I C I
> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
> I am looking for clearance specs.
> Thanks
> D
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
_______________________________________________
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May  3 18:02:06 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:02:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com> <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AB21CCC2-C854-41CD-8230-A86D7CBD9F80@gdhs.com>

J&E = 3.5.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 3, 2013, at 7:36 PM, "Spitfire Racing" <spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> I use them in a Spitfire and went with Venolia's recommendation. Been
> running them for the past 6 years. No problem handling 8K+
>
> Russ Moore
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Davis
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 6:03 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Venolia pistons
>
> I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an engine
> with them right now.
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
>> A M I C I
>> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
>> I am looking for clearance specs.
>> Thanks
>> D
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From igofaster at att.net  Fri May  3 20:18:34 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 19:18:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1367633914.12878.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I was excited I was sub 2:00 a couple of laps...I came around the Panoz on the 
inside of the back straight and got four off again...at THAT point I felt like I 
was driving beyond my limits  so I came in before the 18 laps was completed... I 
call it under-steer but I think the tires were just slippery at that point...
I did come up to the Panoz driver after the fact and apologized for the 'bone 
head' move because I didn't want to be known as 'that guy' who doesn't have a 
clue...all for naught though....as I was appreciated for even trying to 
apologize..

Bobby
To: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 2, 2013 7:04:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing

Congrats Bobby, I hope you still have all your fenders. GT2 is a great class.
I always thought four off meant off the ground. Now I gotta figure out that 
black flag thingie.
So, how did you do?
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
> group...
> APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
> trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
> 'maintaining control' ...  
> 
> 
> Bobby Whitehead
> 
> http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net

From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May  6 07:59:26 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 09:59:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
Message-ID: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>

Amici...

Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at 
Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some thirty 
students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full house at 
Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very good.

Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
traditional first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
don't build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
prep races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown races. 
 My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I bet on 
GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the sloppy 
track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep up with 
the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I picked 
to run third won the Derby and looked great.

Maybe I'll give building engines a try.

Bill (Damdinger)

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May  6 08:34:41 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 14:34:41 +0000
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
In-Reply-To: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>
References: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A895E@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once!  Very
windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember having a
cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.

There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones.  I was
fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the only
Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and Tim/Ryan Murphy
and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)

Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car and did
the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!

Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get by him
once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...

Amici...

Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some thirty
students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full house
at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very good.

Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its traditional
first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I don't
build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the prep
races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown races.
 My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I bet on
GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the sloppy
track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep up with
the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I picked to
run third won the Derby and looked great.

Maybe I'll give building engines a try.

Bill (Damdinger)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May  6 09:11:30 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 15:11:30 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A8AC2@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

So, one of the features of Gingerman, as revised, is a long, long left-hand
sweeper, which invites the driver to slide the car through as fast has he/she
feels is appropriate.  It's  a little like Road America's carousel, I'd say,
but downhill and off-camber in places, lumpier, and not quite so uniform
somehow.

Anyway, I noticed the Spit rear suspension "bucking" a little as I ran through
there.  That's the best way I can describe it.  I'd be sliding the car through
there and the rear would catch and hop just a little.  Spooky feeling.  I
would prefer it didn't do this at that sort of speed.

Any good ideas of where to start with this?  Is it likely the tire is rolling
over too much?  Dreaded swing-axle tuck?  I thought about mounting my GoPro
under there to see what can be seen, ala Chris Marx.

Scott B.

From mmoore at wave1.net  Mon May  6 11:01:24 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 13:01:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 alignment
Message-ID: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>

I am going to have my local shop check the alignment on my TR4, without
sounding too naive, are there basic specs that I should give him for neutral
handling (excepting camber) or do I let him use the specs in his computer.

 

 

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May  6 11:06:39 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 17:06:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A8AC2@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <252133933.1400956.1367859999750.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Scott,

Downhill, off camber and lumpy suggest the rear end is unloading periodically
over the lumpy bits.

Assuming your tire pressures and spring rates are already dialedB  IB  wouldB 
tighten up the rebound

dampening on the rear shocks but I don't know if you have that adjustment on
yours.

If you can't adjust just the rebound then just a stiffer overall setting may
settle it down.

Tightening up the rear sway bar a smidge may help too.

Downhill & off camber you also may need to look at the front end to make sure
some excessive dive

or roll isn't upsetting a normally well behaving rear e nd.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Scott Barr" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 6, 2013 9:11:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension

So, one of the features of Gingerman, as revised, is a long, long left-hand
sweeper, which invites the driver to slide the car through as fast has he/she
feels is appropriate. B It's B a little like Road America's carousel, I'd say,
but downhill and off-camber in places, lumpier, and not quite so uniform
somehow.

Anyway, I noticed the Spit rear suspension "bucking" a little as I ran through
there. B That's the best way I can describe it. B I'd be sliding the car
through
there and the rear would catch and hop just a little. B Spooky feeling. B I
would prefer it didn't do this at that sort of speed.

Any good ideas of where to start with this? B Is it likely the tire is rolling
over too much? B Dreaded swing-axle tuck? B I thought about mounting my GoPro
under there to see what can be seen, ala Chris Marx.

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon May  6 11:10:21 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 07:10:21 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 alignment
In-Reply-To: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>
References: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>
Message-ID: <4E41E2AF-B978-4D93-93E1-B432CF8473A7@bnj.com>

Are you going to race it, or drive it on radials, or do you plan to street
drive it on skinny bias-ply tires.

On May 6, 2013, at 7:01 AM, "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net> wrote:

> I am going to have my local shop check the alignment on my TR4, without
> sounding too naive, are there basic specs that I should give him for
neutral
> handling (excepting camber) or do I let him use the specs in his computer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Mon May  6 15:12:33 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 16:12:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC8FECD9-34BF-4D1F-AE5E-28BF7901B28E@comcast.net>
	<CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>

Finally cleaning out the backlog of my FOT emails. Figured I'd throw my
long drive stories out there. Had a 1980 TR7 convertible and went from
Indianapolis, IN back to my parents in Kingston NY, drove all over the
Catskills and Adirondacks and back in about a week and a half. Well over 2k
miles of driving. Also drove a TR4 from Indy to the UP of MI, then down to
a really big lake in KY, (Cumberland?) within 2 days, sailed on a houseboat
on that lake for a week, then drove from there to Montreal for the GP. Then
down to Kingston again, then back to Indy. No clue what the miles were. For
some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph Spitfire.
Mike


On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:20 PM, robert bownes <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> I think the original question was about race hours rather than road
> trips...But if you are going to talk road trips...
>
> Albany, NY to Dallas Tx for the 1989 VTR meet. Nonstop in the TR6. top
> down. Race in Dallas (win), pick up buddy at airport, drive to
> Minneapolis/St. Paul over 1.5 days (top down), spend 2 days in MSP, then
> non stop MSP->ALB some of it in the rain. Total somewhere in the
> neighborhood of 3400 miles in about 8 days. Was an epic road trip that can
> only be pulled off in college. ;)
>
>
> Plenty of other great road trips in that car... All with a race
> destination. My favourite is still autox on the streets of Waterloo, Iowa.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Vintage Racer
> <vintage.racer at comcast.net>wrote:
>
> > During Spring break from college in 1966, a good friend and I decided to
> > drive
> > my 1959 TR3 from the San Francisco Bay Area to Guaymas, Mexico which is
> due
> > south of Nogales.  Guaymas was a very small fishing village on the Gulf
> of
> > California and the only plans we made were to camp on a yet to be
> > determined
> > beach during our week stay.  In order to pack camping essentials and our
> > clothes we had to leave the side curtains behind due to lack of storage
> > space.
> > We left early one morning and arrived in Guaymas the evening of the
> second
> > day.  We alternated driving at each gas stop.  On our third morning we
> were
> > surprised to see two of our dorm mates driving towards the same beach
> > where we
> > were headed.  We joined forces and had an enjoyable time bumming around
> the
> > area.  The drive home was made in two days but the TR required a quart of
> > oil
> > at every gas stop.  Other than that, the car never missed a beat over the
> > 2300
> > miles we covered.  That summer, my father and I rebuilt the TR's
> > engine..great
> > little car but I sure appreciated the roll up windows on my friends new
> > TR4 he
> > acquired shortly after our return.
> >
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Mon May  6 16:20:32 2013
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don TR)
Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 18:20:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive
In-Reply-To: <CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC8FECD9-34BF-4D1F-AE5E-28BF7901B28E@comcast.net>
	<CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C089F21578F24B8485D945146DD01771@DonPC>

As for the longest drive in my 1958 TR3A which I bought brand new in May,
1958, I drove a total of 7300 "touring" miles from Montreal to VTR in
Portland Oregon in 2000 and then back home.

Back about 1960 to 1963, I rallied my TR3A extensively and it was nothing
unusual to have a 500 or 600 mile rally.  Most was navigational, but during
the night sections, we had some spirited speeds to try to meet - not to be
late at the next control.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
Montreal, Canada

PS - I have driven "TRusty" over 110,000 miles since I did the full
restoration from 1987 to 1990.  In 2007, VTR gave me 384 points out of 400
in the judged concourse after having driven 94,000 miles since it was
restored.
---------------------------------------------------------------

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Jankowski
Sent: May-06-13 5:13 PM
To: robert bownes
Cc: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Longest Drive

Finally cleaning out the backlog of my FOT emails. Figured I'd throw my
long drive stories out there. Had a 1980 TR7 convertible and went from
Indianapolis, IN back to my parents in Kingston NY, drove all over the
Catskills and Adirondacks and back in about a week and a half. Well over 2k
miles of driving. Also drove a TR4 from Indy to the UP of MI, then down to
a really big lake in KY, (Cumberland?) within 2 days, sailed on a houseboat
on that lake for a week, then drove from there to Montreal for the GP. Then
down to Kingston again, then back to Indy. No clue what the miles were. For
some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph Spitfire.
Mike


On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:20 PM, robert bownes <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> I think the original question was about race hours rather than road
> trips...But if you are going to talk road trips...
>
> Albany, NY to Dallas Tx for the 1989 VTR meet. Nonstop in the TR6. top
> down. Race in Dallas (win), pick up buddy at airport, drive to
> Minneapolis/St. Paul over 1.5 days (top down), spend 2 days in MSP, then
> non stop MSP->ALB some of it in the rain. Total somewhere in the
> neighborhood of 3400 miles in about 8 days. Was an epic road trip that can
> only be pulled off in college. ;)
>
>
> Plenty of other great road trips in that car... All with a race
> destination. My favourite is still autox on the streets of Waterloo, Iowa.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Vintage Racer
> <vintage.racer at comcast.net>wrote:
>
> > During Spring break from college in 1966, a good friend and I decided to
> > drive
> > my 1959 TR3 from the San Francisco Bay Area to Guaymas, Mexico which is
> due
> > south of Nogales.  Guaymas was a very small fishing village on the Gulf
> of
> > California and the only plans we made were to camp on a yet to be
> > determined
> > beach during our week stay.  In order to pack camping essentials and our
> > clothes we had to leave the side curtains behind due to lack of storage
> > space.
> > We left early one morning and arrived in Guaymas the evening of the
> second
> > day.  We alternated driving at each gas stop.  On our third morning we
> were
> > surprised to see two of our dorm mates driving towards the same beach
> > where we
> > were headed.  We joined forces and had an enjoyable time bumming around
> the
> > area.  The drive home was made in two days but the TR required a quart
of
> > oil
> > at every gas stop.  Other than that, the car never missed a beat over
the
> > 2300
> > miles we covered.  That summer, my father and I rebuilt the TR's
> > engine..great
> > little car but I sure appreciated the roll up windows on my friends new
> > TR4 he
> > acquired shortly after our return.
> >
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May  6 18:48:06 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:48:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 cylinder head water jacket plug fix
Message-ID: <690E36F4-F097-4D40-85BF-61B2390636A3@comcast.net>

The subject line pretty much states the problem. Is there
A good procedure for getting the old one out ?
Tony's site says to tap it for an npt plug.
Has any one done this while the head is on the car?
Thanks as always,
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

From jkhagen at charter.net  Mon May  6 18:54:50 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:54:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
Message-ID: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>

Thanks to Scott Barr for coming over and saying hi--had fun with him and 
the Green TR-4.  VSCDA does a great job it instructors -one on one for 
over 30 guys! Our buddy Steve Nichols got his ticket--can't wipe the 
smile off!--John Hagen


On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once! 
> Very
> windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember 
> having a
> cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.
>
> There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones. 
> I was
> fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the 
> only
> Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and 
> Tim/Ryan Murphy
> and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)
>
> Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car 
> and did
> the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!
>
> Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get 
> by him
> once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On Behalf
> Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
>
> Amici...
>
> Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
> Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some 
> thirty
> students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full 
> house
> at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very 
> good.
>
> Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
> traditional
> first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
> don't
> build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
> prep
> races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown 
> races.
>  My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I 
> bet on
> GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the 
> sloppy
> track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep 
> up with
> the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I 
> picked to
> run third won the Derby and looked great.
>
> Maybe I'll give building engines a try.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon May  6 20:33:38 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 21:33:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
In-Reply-To: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000601ce4acb$48c723f0$da556bd0$@com>

Like Scott said, it was a great weekend other than my knee problem.  I had
done a little test run on our Town roads and thought the knee would be okay.
At first at the track I thought maybe the new brake pads just weren't
grabbing very well but soon realized that I just didn't have enough strength
in my "new" knee.  Like has been said many times before, there is nothing
like being on the track and running with other cars except actually doing
it.  But VSCDA was very accommodating and Ryan did make the team proud!!
 We had modified the suspension to give the appropriate camber for the
Hoosier radials and it made a big improvement in the handling.  That plus
the increase in power from my recent rebuild gave me the opportunity to
experience power oversteer coming out of turn three and taking a ride
through the grass!  We adjusted tire pressures to try to give a bit less
oversteer now that the fronts were gripping better and it occurred to me
that out pressures seemed a bit high.  I called Tony Drews and he confirmed
that our pressures were too high and gave us a recommendation for the
conditions we were experiencing.  We made that adjustment and on Sunday warm
up Ryan reported that we were back to our mostly neutral handling with the
rear of the car starting to drift out and helping to rotate rather than
tending to understeer to the outside of the track.  Thanks again to Tony for
helping a fellow racer!!!

Tim & Ryan
#317 TR4 BRG

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jkhagen at charter.net
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 7:55 PM
To: Barr, Scott
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...

Thanks to Scott Barr for coming over and saying hi--had fun with him and 
the Green TR-4.  VSCDA does a great job it instructors -one on one for 
over 30 guys! Our buddy Steve Nichols got his ticket--can't wipe the 
smile off!--John Hagen


On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once! 
> Very
> windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember 
> having a
> cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.
>
> There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones. 
> I was
> fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the 
> only
> Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and 
> Tim/Ryan Murphy
> and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)
>
> Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car 
> and did
> the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!
>
> Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get 
> by him
> once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On Behalf
> Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
>
> Amici...
>
> Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
> Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some 
> thirty
> students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full 
> house
> at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very 
> good.
>
> Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
> traditional
> first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
> don't
> build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
> prep
> races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown 
> races.
>  My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I 
> bet on
> GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the 
> sloppy
> track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep 
> up with
> the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I 
> picked to
> run third won the Derby and looked great.
>
> Maybe I'll give building engines a try.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From joeg at neb.rr.com  Tue May  7 12:50:32 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 13:50:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive (Mike Jankowski)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>

If you ever start planning that trip - get in touch with me and I'll send
you a copy of The North American Spitfire Squadron's glove box companion -
"The MASH Book".  MASH is the Mobile Army of Spitfire Helpers.  We've had a
few guys do coast-to-coast tours and the MASH book is nice to have with you.
Handy even if you're just doing a short tour out of your own area.  It's a
list of "willing to assist" Spitfire owners who have shops, tools, trailers,
etc.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

-----------------------Original Message Snip-----------------------------
For some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph
Spitfire.
Mike

From my71spit13 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 13:02:22 2013
From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:02:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
Message-ID: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For the
first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the back
end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on what
may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs smooth
and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
 left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
Thank you in advance!!!
 
Shawn Frank
Continued Legacy
Drive Away Cancer Iowa
515-339-4228

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue May  7 13:09:31 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>

Sounds like a fuel tank issue.  If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
outlet.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Shawn Frank
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
To: Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns

I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
the
first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
back
end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
what
may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs smooth
and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
 left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
Thank you in advance!!!
 
Shawn Frank
Continued Legacy
Drive Away Cancer Iowa
515-339-4228
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From clw2000 at msn.com  Tue May  7 13:23:04 2013
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Chuck WATSON)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:23:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>
References: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>,
	<30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue May  7 13:30:54 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 19:30:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel supply
as the g-force of the turn

swings the floats and shuts the float valve.

Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that you
could orient front/rear instead of left/right.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue May  7 13:30:56 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 19:30:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <463644229.1443838.1367955056342.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel supply
as the g-force of the turn

swings the floats and shuts the float valve.

Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that you
could orient front/rear instead of left/right.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Tue May  7 14:20:25 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:20:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive (Mike Jankowski)
In-Reply-To: <005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
	<005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVvHRQ4aAVm627_7OGwRqEekSN5=XnyPq11Og14LU0aiyw@mail.gmail.com>

Oh cool!!!! Thank you!!!!!!


On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 1:50 PM, Joe Guinan <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> If you ever start planning that trip - get in touch with me and I'll send
> you a copy of The North American Spitfire Squadron's glove box companion -
> "The MASH Book".  MASH is the Mobile Army of Spitfire Helpers.  We've had a
> few guys do coast-to-coast tours and the MASH book is nice to have with
> you.
> Handy even if you're just doing a short tour out of your own area.  It's a
> list of "willing to assist" Spitfire owners who have shops, tools,
> trailers,
> etc.
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
>
> -----------------------Original Message Snip-----------------------------
> For some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph
> Spitfire.
> Mike

From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 14:35:31 2013
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 13:35:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>

There may be another issue in terms of fuel line setup and pressure. I am
running 3.5 psi and have one line running to the front bowl and a fuel line
from the front bowl to the back. I see other configurations, but this is what
works for me. Do you run your fuel lines in the same manner or have separate
lines to each carb?

Question for the group. I believe the fuel line setup I have is the stock
configuration. Is there any benefit or detriment to setting the lines up this
way?  Is there a reason why Triumph ran he fuel line this way?

Also, I pulled a stock tank out of a second TR4 I own. It had 4 one inch
landscape rocks in the tank.  If you are running a stock tank, it is worth a
look see. In this case, someone must have made someone else pretty mad years
ago!

I can send you the float lid numbers if needed.

Ty

Sent from my iPhone



On May 7, 2013, at 12:30 PM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel
supply
> as the g-force of the turn
>
> swings the floats and shuts the float valve.
>
> Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that
you
> could orient front/rear instead of left/right.
>
> jim g
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
> To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
> mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the
bowls.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Watson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: spitlist at cox.net
>> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
>> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>>
>> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
>> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
>> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
>> outlet.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
>> To: Friends of Triumph
>> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>>
>> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
>> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
>> the
>> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for
a
>> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires,
I
>> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
>> back
>> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
>> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate
it
>> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every
time
>> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
>> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
>> what
>> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is
no
>> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
> smooth
>> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
>> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
>> Thank you in advance!!!
>>
>> Shawn Frank
>> Continued Legacy
>> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
>> 515-339-4228
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue May  7 14:43:24 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 22:43:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Engine run - 2nd try
In-Reply-To: <42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>
References: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004101ce4b63$85f69ba0$91e3d2e0$@com>

One week ago I started my new build engine, drove out of town when the
engine freezed.
The crank was stuck on main #3.

Now, after making engine parts in a hurry the engine gave the first sound
again today.
Hope the 2nd try will be more successful.

http://youtu.be/wC12CVtMOgA

Cheers
Chris

From bld4139 at aol.com  Wed May  8 07:32:03 2013
From: bld4139 at aol.com (bld4139 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 09:32:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] hi!
Message-ID: <8D01A078F5CB93A-2340-1D46F@webmail-m265.sysops.aol.com>

http://ebridge.sk/brain.php?clzbn821xc
































































































**********************
I am not pregnant... I just accidentally swallowed a football.

From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Wed May  8 07:44:55 2013
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 14:44:55 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Renault Clio Cup Round 4 from Donington Park Apr 2013 -
	YouTube
Message-ID: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>

Dear all, thought you might like to see what my son gets up to in the UK,
enjoy

Keith

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VUCjkJxEMJc

From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Thu May  9 14:10:36 2013
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 16:10:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement
Message-ID: <15f4e845.4210b.13e8aeab2b2.Webtop.8@optonline.net>

Friends,

Would someone please take a measurement of a TR3 engine and trans combo?

I need from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point, I guess the 
valve cover fill cap. (Overall height)
Also from the front, including the fan, to the rear of the transmission 
yoke.  (Overall length)

Thanks in advance.

Todd Redmond
TS 29341

From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:39:38 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:39:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Rick Cline
Message-ID: <BLU176-W17470FCBECAC675888D234DAA40@phx.gbl>

Anyone have Rick Cline's current e-mail address?  When they converted hotmail
to outlook, they dumped my contact list.  I wish to hell they'd stop
"improving" things!

Fred Hodgson

From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:53:50 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:53:50 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rick Cline's e-mail
Message-ID: <BLU176-DS148DAF550CE9460C809CAADAA40@phx.gbl>

Thanks guys.

Fred Hodgson

From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:58:28 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:58:28 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rick Cline's e-mail
Message-ID: <BLU176-DS15B8252845FA3A7F0D36FBDAA40@phx.gbl>

Thanks guys.

Fred Hodgson

From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May  9 14:53:44 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
Message-ID: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>

A local engine builder has recommended that the
2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
cannot figure out any benefit.

Any thoughts from this group?

art de armond

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May  9 16:18:15 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 22:18:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement
In-Reply-To: <15f4e845.4210b.13e8aeab2b2.Webtop.8@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <161268269.1523127.1368137895436.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If you plan to use roller rockers plan for a taller valve cover than stock,
just fyi.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Todd Redmond" <alfetta95 at optonline.net>
To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 2:10:36 PM
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement

Friends,

Would someone please take a measurement of a TR3 engine and trans combo?

I need from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point, I guess the
valve cover fill cap. (Overall height)
Also from the front, including the fan, to the rear of the transmission
yoke. B (Overall length)

Thanks in advance.

Todd Redmond
TS 29341
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mmoore at wave1.net  Thu May  9 18:01:14 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 20:01:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May  9 18:47:50 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 20:47:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <E3EE310069584D8DAC5A8D5E04857762@hpd530>

Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the 
back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the 
bellhousing.
If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the 
clutch.
Like I said, not sure about a 4.
Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
Good luck, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help


> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
>
>
> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
> new
> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
>
>
> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
> way
> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
> won't come back up.
>
>
>
> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May  9 18:56:21 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 20:56:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <C907091C696C45F9A39BF18C2037A878@hpd530>

P.S.
Various places sell an adjustable pushrod for the clutch.
If you want to drive down to Cambridge Springs tomorrow I have a spare I'll 
let you try.
Bill
1.4 miles south of Campbell's Pottery.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help


> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
>
>
> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
> new
> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
>
>
> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
> way
> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
> won't come back up.
>
>
>
> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Thu May  9 19:04:47 2013
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 11:04:47 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Mike,
Sounds like the thrust bearing sleeve is moving too far forward and then
locking up on the gearbox nose that guides the clutch thrust bearing
carrier.


Cheers..

Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Friday, 10 May 2013 10:01 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jason at multivintage.com  Thu May  9 19:17:03 2013
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <mailman.11.1368148774.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

I would be most interested in what the slave is actually doing when you press the peddle. At least That will tell you if its 'before' or 'after' that point.
J.O. FGR. 
------Original Message------
From: Mike Moore
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Sent: May 9, 2013 7:01 PM

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From sjanzen at me.com  Thu May  9 19:24:38 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 21:24:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <9EC94E7A-8057-4A30-88AF-9C1468268825@me.com>

get someone to push on the pedal while you look at the slave.  You should
immediately see clutch lever actuator movement at the transmission.  If you
don't, and the air is out, adjust the rods.  Question - was there any problem
before you replaced the master - I hate to suggest the possibility that the
tapered pin in the cross shaft is sheared (inside the bell housing) . . .
To Peter's comment, there are two different length "noses" for these
transmissions, but if it was working before with the same size master and
slave, nothing should have changed.

On May 9, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Peter Vucinic wrote:

Mike,
Sounds like the thrust bearing sleeve is moving too far forward and then
locking up on the gearbox nose that guides the clutch thrust bearing
carrier.


Cheers..

Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Friday, 10 May 2013 10:01 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.



I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.



With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.



I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.



Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu May  9 20:14:32 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 19:14:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <345ggxibq3go3ci6nve8qetg.1368151952638@email.android.com>

What are you running for a clutch? Any chance you overextended the pressure plate?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone

Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net> wrote:

>This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
> 
>
>I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
>slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
> 
>
>With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
>to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>won't come back up.
>
> 
>
>I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
> 
>
>Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
> 
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>
> 
>
>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
>2007 West 32nd Street
>
>Erie, PA 16508
>
> 
>
>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
>Fax:        814-864-7383
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow04 at tr4racer.com

From mmoore at wave1.net  Fri May 10 07:41:45 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:41:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Thrust angle
Message-ID: <000301ce4d84$1d37c8a0$57a759e0$@net>

I just had my racing TR4 aligned.

 

Thrust angle is 48. They told me it should be less than 30. Is this enough
to make an adjustment for?

 

My thought was to elongate the hole on the plate under rear axle so I can
shift it slightly. They said an 1/8" would be enough.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Fri May 10 10:50:44 2013
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:50:44 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.

~Steve



-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>To: Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net>, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the 
>back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the 
>bellhousing.
>If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the 
>clutch.
>Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>Good luck, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
>To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>
>> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>>
>>
>>
>> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
>> new
>> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>>
>>
>>
>> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
>> way
>> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>> won't come back up.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>>
>>
>>
>> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>> Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri May 10 11:03:26 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 10:03:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <21369F78-EFA7-4D22-8215-AB64E165A94B@bnj.com>

It's easy to overstroke aftermarket clutches. When you do you often crack out
the center boss. You have to know what the maximum stroke is and make sure you
have a stop or a properly sized MC/SC ratio to ensure you can't stroke past
that far. The pushrod needs to be loose enough to turn freely to make sure
you're not putting continuous pressure on the thrust bearings, and make sure
if you replaced the MC with an aftermarket product that it doesn't have a
residual pressure valve built into it. If it does you have to take it out or
the clutch will be impossible to adjuts and you'll toast the thrust bearings.
Bleed the system carefully, adjust the pushrod, and it should be fine.

Speedbleeders work really well, cheap, easy to install, and they let you get
some good quick pumps to carry out the stubborn bubbles.
On May 10, 2013, at 9:50 AM, steve <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.
>
> ~Steve
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bill Tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>> Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>> To: Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net>, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>>
>> Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the
>> back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the
>> bellhousing.
>> If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the
>> clutch.
>> Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>> Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>> Good luck, Bill
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
>> To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>>
>>
>>> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and
>>> new
>>> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the
>>> way
>>> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>>> won't come back up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>>
>>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>>
>>> Erie, PA 16508
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>>
>>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From gaf3 at charter.net  Fri May 10 11:05:47 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:05:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
Message-ID: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>

Group
Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of 
spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 
(trans and O/D) for a quick swap later.
The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is 
different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
Thanks in advance
Glenn

From joeg at neb.rr.com  Fri May 10 12:58:05 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:58:05 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>

Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing has an event at High Plains Raceway on May 18
& 19.  South of Fort Morgan, East of Denver.  I'm tagging along with a
friend who's running a Sprite, and a couple other local Brit Car Club
members. Wondering if there will be any other FOT members that I can
bother...

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

From igofaster at att.net  Fri May 10 14:01:20 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:01:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] high volume oil pump
Message-ID: <1368216080.99297.YahooMailRC@web182205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

wondering if there is a need or a source for a high volume oil pump for the 
GT6.. apparently the engine I'm building referenced a late model GT6 with the 
8.5 compression ratio... we're getting close to having an engine for the 
GT6...forged rods forged pistons... zero deck... my head and cam survived Road 
Atlanta so at least I have THAT....
God Bless F.o.T.    Bobby Whitehead

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri May 10 14:02:05 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:02:05 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
In-Reply-To: <00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
	<00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3BF8BDEB-E853-46D0-8BCC-86CC3513EE35@comcast.net>

Yes,
There will be 5 Tr4's and one spitfire.
We will be at the west end of the carports.
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 12:58 PM, "Joe Guinan" <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing has an event at High Plains Raceway on May 18
> & 19.  South of Fort Morgan, East of Denver.  I'm tagging along with a
> friend who's running a Sprite, and a couple other local Brit Car Club
> members. Wondering if there will be any other FOT members that I can
> bother...
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net

From stlnyc at msn.com  Fri May 10 14:10:11 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:10:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] looking for GT6Steve
Message-ID: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>

Need info on your rear axle conversion for GT6+

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri May 10 15:01:16 2013
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 17:01:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] looking for GT6Steve
In-Reply-To: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT403-EAS5726488FE49B8AF6AE48D5B2A50@phx.gbl>

I'd be interested in hearing about that conversion too please.   I have 2
gt6+. I'd consider it for.  THX

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-05-10, at 4:10 PM, "Fred and Mary Hodgson" <stlnyc at msn.com> wrote:

> Need info on your rear axle conversion for GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 10 18:31:12 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:31:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 glove box door
Message-ID: <572197.60188.bm@smtp112.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

A M I C I
I am building another Triumph based race car.  I like to use the steel
dashboards from the TR4, and I have one of those.
I am missing the glove box door - does anyone have one to sell?
Thanks
Dennis

From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Fri May 10 18:37:37 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:37:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
Message-ID: <71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Glenn,
This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is thicker.
The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as the
earlier flange.

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Glenn Franco
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4

Group
Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 (trans
and O/D) for a quick swap later.
The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
Thanks in advance
Glenn
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 18:40:00 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:40:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Renault Clio Cup Round 4 from Donington Park Apr 2013 -
 YouTube
In-Reply-To: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>
References: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.13.1368232959.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

Wow.  That was a great drive by Josh!  You must be proud.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 08:44 AM 5/8/2013, Keith Files wrote:
>Dear all, thought you might like to see what my son gets up to in the UK,
>enjoy
>
>Keith
>
>http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VUCjkJxEMJc
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 18:40:57 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:40:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <mailman.14.1368233015.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

Doesn't sound right to me.

Tony Drews

At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>A local engine builder has recommended that the
>2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
>the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>cannot figure out any benefit.
>
>Any thoughts from this group?
>
>art de armond
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri May 10 19:04:50 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 18:04:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <20130511004336.9CF4442570@autox.team.net>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
	<20130511004336.9CF4442570@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <99DFFF1A-C5C5-45CC-947E-DBA8D85A79B3@bnj.com>

It's backwards. Some engine builders do a little more gap on the top ring
because it gets hotter. All the end gap is for is to prevent the ring from
pushing hard on itself when it expands. Sounds to me like you have a weird
engine builder.


On May 10, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Doesn't sound right to me.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>> A local engine builder has recommended that the
>> 2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
>> the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>> cannot figure out any benefit.
>>
>> Any thoughts from this group?
>>
>> art de armond
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 19:12:46 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 20:12:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
	<71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1368234925.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

May need to slot the rear mounts a bit to get things to line up too, 
although I didn't need to.

Tony Drews

At 07:37 PM 5/10/2013, Steve Yott wrote:
>Glenn,
>This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
>of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
>longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is thicker.
>The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
>stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as the
>earlier flange.
>
>Steve Yott
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Glenn Franco
>Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
>To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
>
>Group
>Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
>I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
>spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 (trans
>and O/D) for a quick swap later.
>The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
>different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
>Thanks in advance
>Glenn
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 10 19:39:33 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 21:39:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <BLU168-W607E5B7BA43218EEBFD4CBAA60@phx.gbl>

While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to install
in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's the oil of
choice in these? Street car.

Thanks,

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri May 10 19:42:12 2013
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (K LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:42:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
Message-ID: <BLU178-DS151D7D85766F034732A981B7A60@phx.gbl>

Hi Joe, feel free to pop into 'Control' and say hello...

Kev Lynch
Race Steward

From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Fri May 10 19:53:48 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 20:53:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W607E5B7BA43218EEBFD4CBAA60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <51.A7.06694.0B4AD815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

I have used Redline MT90 exclusively for many years (about 50 gearbox builds
without any issues with either the A or J overdrives.  This oil foams less
than all the others I ever tested and foam does not lubricate!  Expensive
but worth it!

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 8:40 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif

While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to
install in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's
the oil of choice in these? Street car.

Thanks,
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From kaskastner at gmail.com  Fri May 10 19:57:45 2013
From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 18:57:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Ring end gaps
Message-ID: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>

If you leave the second compression ring on the bench and do not fit it
like I did, then you have no worry about the gaps.

*Never be beaten by equipment.*

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May 10 20:11:05 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 22:11:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ring end gaps
In-Reply-To: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ED9910AC-F7B8-4F6B-B4DB-42A6DE5F984A@gdhs.com>

Ah!  Just like the MT 125 Honda road racer I tuned I'm the 70's.  It had moto
cross air cooled single cyl engine with 3 rings. I just used the top,
compression ring.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 9:57 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskastner at gmail.com> wrote:

> If you leave the second compression ring on the bench and do not fit it
> like I did, then you have no worry about the gaps.
>
> *Never be beaten by equipment.*
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 10 20:18:52 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 21:18:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR Trip to East Coast
Message-ID: <A54548BB-130D-422B-B5BC-292CA3C6AE68@cs.com>

Sent from my iPad
Small world.....had a meeting with guy in Newark, NJ. Former SoCal guy. Knew
Dunst, Smock, Burroughs, and more.

TRIUMPH TRS.    One of the historic Le Mans Triumphs is being restored in near
Armagh, PA. It is well on its way to a meticulous and faithful restoration. It
was great to see it.

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May 10 20:19:39 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 22:19:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <20130511011529.C137F425A4@autox.team.net>
References: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
	<71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<20130511011529.C137F425A4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <40D3AF47-46DD-4C47-B8AF-F3DDA12D2DCF@gdhs.com>

Tony , Henry  .....I am going to Watkins Glen 6/7; so won't make
Summit.....hope to see you guys at Mid Ohio for another "blanket" race!
Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 9:12 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> May need to slot the rear mounts a bit to get things to line up too,
although I didn't need to.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 07:37 PM 5/10/2013, Steve Yott wrote:
>> Glenn,
>> This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
>> of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
>> longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is
thicker.
>> The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
>> stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as
the
>> earlier flange.
>>
>> Steve Yott
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Glenn Franco
>> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
>> To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
>>
>> Group
>> Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
>> I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
>> spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2
(trans
>> and O/D) for a quick swap later.
>> The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
>> different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
>> Thanks in advance
>> Glenn
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Sat May 11 07:19:54 2013
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 06:19:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <20130511004336.806EE4256B@autox.team.net>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
	<20130511004336.806EE4256B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring 
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says. 
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To:
riverside at southslope.net; FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Sent: Friday, May 10,
2013 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Doesn't sound right to
me.

Tony Drews

At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>A
local engine builder has recommended that the
>2nd compression ring have a
larger end gap than
>the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>cannot figure out any benefit.
>
>Any thoughts from this group?
>
>art de
armond
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive:
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Sat May 11 07:30:23 2013
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:30:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>

 Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner &lt;j.wags63 at yahoo.com&gt;
To: Tony Drews &lt;tony at tonydrews.com&gt;; riverside
&lt;riverside at southslope.net&gt;; FOT &lt;fot at autox.team.net&gt;
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question




     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----

From BillDentin at aol.com  Sat May 11 07:32:02 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:32:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <12a7b7.480ac13b.3ebfa252@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/10/2013 8:39:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:


> While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to 
> install
> in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's the 
> oil of
> choice in these? Street car.
> 
> 

Back in the day, they used to say that the clutches in that tranny really 
wanted two distinct fluids, and that KENDALL Three Star was as close as you 
could get to addressing both of those needs, but since our own ODs have been 
on the shelf for years, there may be a better tranny fluid out and available 
now.

Bill Dentinger

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Sat May 11 15:20:25 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 17:20:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly. 

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat May 11 16:20:18 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:20:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>

I run non-detergent oil in some of my old tractors (guess it ties into the 
old tractor engine thing!)
If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, it's available there. Sometimes in 
different weights than my local parts store can get.
Tractor on!
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif


> Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. 
> I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of 
> the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I 
> believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in 
> and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.
>
> It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD 
> box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this 
> Spring  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same 
> cheap oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. 
> Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly.
>
> I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a 
> close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. 
> Redline oil is way too expensive for that!
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From triosan at gmail.com  Sat May 11 17:36:22 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 16:36:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
	<558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDsEcYDQmf_MZhiVKvZk4zbJ2zp8Af1_e=MRYf_AvjvBg@mail.gmail.com>

Redline MTL full race jtype. Flawless.  Set a personal best at Pacific
Raceways -- 2seconds up on last year. 1:42:6.
On May 11, 2013 3:21 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net> wrote:

> I run non-detergent oil in some of my old tractors (guess it ties into the
> old tractor engine thing!)
> If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, it's available there. Sometimes in
> different weights than my local parts store can get.
> Tractor on!
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
> To: <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 5:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
>
>  Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car.
>> I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of
>> the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I
>> believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in
>> and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.
>>
>> It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD
>> box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring
>>  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap
>> oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR.
>> Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly.
>>
>> I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take
>> a close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box.
>> Redline oil is way too expensive for that!
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/fot/william.tobin31@**verizon.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/triosan at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com>

From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Sun May 12 13:34:21 2013
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 12:34:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1368387261.94818.YahooMailRC@web184806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Should gasket sealer be used on one side of this gasket or should it go in
with 
nothing on it?  I am using the white gasket that is labeled High
Performance.  
Thanks, Jim

From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Sun May 12 14:36:13 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 15:36:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6
In-Reply-To: <1368387261.94818.YahooMailRC@web184806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <77.9A.06694.E3DFF815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

I do not use any sealer on the manifold gaskets.  

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sherry robyn
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 2:34 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6

Should gasket sealer be used on one side of this gasket or should it go in
with nothing on it?  I am using the white gasket that is labeled High
Performance.  
Thanks, Jim
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From mmoore at wave1.net  Sun May 12 18:24:31 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:24:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
Message-ID: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>

At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.

 

Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.

 

Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.

 

Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
can't shift easily.

 

Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?

 

Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?

 

I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since this one looks ok.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sun May 12 18:55:12 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:55:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <C42EC368D37141AD8305B90C63DC128F@hpd530>

Mike, give me a call: 398-2908
I'll be up till 11:30.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school


> At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If 
> I
> go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>
>
>
> Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as 
> was
> in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>
>
>
> Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
> look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>
>
>
> Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
> can't shift easily.
>
>
>
> Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>
>
>
> Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>
>
>
> I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to 
> waste
> the time since this one looks ok.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 12 19:04:01 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:04:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <mailman.17.1368407208.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper 
hole?  I have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce 
pedal effort and require more pedal travel.

Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master 
cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of 
fluid pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch 
engaged for a while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a 
wilwood master cylinder and find no reference of such a valve thought.

Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had 
before?  A smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave 
cylinder would increase pedal stroke and lower the engagement / 
disengagement closer to the floor.

Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any 
chance that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be 
replaced?  Sometimes rubber lines fail in a way that causes them to 
act as one way valves.

That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be 
hugely frustrating!

Tony Drews

At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
>go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>
>
>
>Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
>in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>
>
>
>Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>
>
>
>Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>can't shift easily.
>
>
>
>Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>
>
>
>Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>
>
>
>I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
>the time since this one looks ok.
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>
>
>
>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
>2007 West 32nd Street
>
>Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
>Fax:        814-864-7383
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sun May 12 19:41:51 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 21:41:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing   school
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
	<20130513010820.EBC8B40E39@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>

Hi Tony, I just talked to Mike.
He's running a braided line to the slave, but they have been known to fail 
at times.
Mike's coming down tomorrow AM. I have a spare M/C and Slave. I want to 
check the bore sizes on his and see if they are the same as mine.
Like I said to him, if the clutch worked before replacing the hydraulics and 
doesn't work now, it's probably the hydraulics.
Your thought of a residual valve in brake M/C is a good point.
Here's hoping! (I have a spare clutch too, just in case!)
Thanks for your help.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school


> Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper hole?  I 
> have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce pedal effort 
> and require more pedal travel.
>
> Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master 
> cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of fluid 
> pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch engaged 
> for a while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a wilwood master 
> cylinder and find no reference of such a valve thought.
>
> Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had before?  A 
> smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave cylinder would 
> increase pedal stroke and lower the engagement / disengagement closer to 
> the floor.
>
> Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any 
> chance that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be replaced?  Sometimes 
> rubber lines fail in a way that causes them to act as one way valves.
>
> That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be 
> hugely frustrating!
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>>At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If 
>>I
>>go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>>
>>
>>
>>Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as 
>>was
>>in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>>
>>
>>
>>Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>>look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>>
>>
>>
>>Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>>can't shift easily.
>>
>>
>>
>>Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>>
>>
>>
>>Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>>
>>
>>
>>I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to 
>>waste
>>the time since this one looks ok.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>>2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>>Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>>Fax:        814-864-7383
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun May 12 20:36:34 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 19:36:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing    school
In-Reply-To: <72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
	<20130513010820.EBC8B40E39@autox.team.net>
	<72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>
Message-ID: <89A1E02E-C2E9-4406-A647-37E696F7DE06@bnj.com>

It still sounds to me like a residual pressure valve. Remove the line from the
M/C, then unscrew the fitting from the body of the M/C. Under that fitting
there might be a valve bod and spring. remove then, reassemble.

A faulty line is also possible. With the peal all the way to the floor and
stuck, open the bleed valve and see what happens.
On May 12, 2013, at 6:41 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Tony, I just talked to Mike.
> He's running a braided line to the slave, but they have been known to fail
at times.
> Mike's coming down tomorrow AM. I have a spare M/C and Slave. I want to
check the bore sizes on his and see if they are the same as mine.
> Like I said to him, if the clutch worked before replacing the hydraulics and
doesn't work now, it's probably the hydraulics.
> Your thought of a residual valve in brake M/C is a good point.
> Here's hoping! (I have a spare clutch too, just in case!)
> Thanks for your help.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
>
>
>> Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper hole?  I
have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce pedal effort and
require more pedal travel.
>>
>> Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master
cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of fluid
pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch engaged for a
while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a wilwood master cylinder
and find no reference of such a valve thought.
>>
>> Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had before?  A
smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave cylinder would increase
pedal stroke and lower the engagement / disengagement closer to the floor.
>>
>> Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any chance
that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be replaced?  Sometimes rubber lines
fail in a way that causes them to act as one way valves.
>>
>> That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be
hugely frustrating!
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>>> At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If
I
>>> go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as
was
>>> in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>>> look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>>> can't shift easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to
waste
>>> the time since this one looks ok.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>>
>>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>>
>>> Erie, PA 16508
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>>
>>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Sun May 12 21:00:51 2013
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:00:51 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANbjSeG1YPdPiTyZ6H0v/zEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Mike,
Which side of the Metal bracket have you got the slave cylinder bolted to?
Sounds like you are about the thickness of the slave cylinder flange off
getting the right stroke?


Cheers


Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Monday, 13 May 2013 10:25 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school

At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.

 

Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.

 

Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.

 

Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
can't shift easily.

 

Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?

 

Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?

 

I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since this one looks ok.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pvucinic at netspace.net.au

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun May 12 21:04:40 2013
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:04:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] In-Car video from VARA Buttonwillow May 5, 2013
Message-ID: <28878898.1368414280804.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Here's some cool in-car video from the Spitfire of DJ Isaac.  This is the Sunday Flag race from VARA's "British Extravaganza."
I appear in the video in my TR3 for the first 5 minutes before DJ goes sailing past me and sets the second fastest time of the race.  At about :51, I was on the inside signaling DJ that there was a spin happening ahead of us.
A few seconds later, an actual tumbleweed rolls across the track!
There's a scary moment at 6:15.  This kid is really quick.
Enjoy the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WprNn5iW4g&feature=youtu.be

~Steve

From britcars at bellsouth.net  Mon May 13 05:05:57 2013
From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 04:05:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <1368443157.38057.YahooMailNeo@web181704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Make sure you do not have a Quinton Hazel clutch setup. They stick just like
you describe. Next, check the diameter of your clutch hose, it should be
bigger than your brake line. Clutch hoses need to be bigger to allow the
pressure to release quickly. If the master cylinder took the same size fitting
as before, it is probably correct for the clutch, it should have a bigger line
fitting than a master brake cylinder. An adjustable pushrod is useless. The
only way it would have any effect on the situation is if you adjusted it so
far that the piston is bottomed out in the slave cylinder and then you would
be putting constant pressure on the TOB, not good. TR 3-6 hydraulic clutch
systems will always, when in good condition, push the piston out as far as it
will go just by the small internal spring. It just keeps very light pressure
on the pushrod. If you lengthen the pushrod, all you do is push the piston
back into the slave cylinder, until you go so far as
 to bottom it out. 
 

________________________________
 From: Mike Moore
<mmoore at wave1.net>
To: 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013
8:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.



Problem started
after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is
stock from Roadster Factory.



Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and
pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not
bent.



Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly
loose, I
can't shift easily.



Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?



I can drive 5
hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since
this one looks ok.



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd
Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:       
814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May 13 06:44:21 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:44:21 +0000
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

See the second article, from June 2005.

http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Yellow04
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 4:20 PM
To: trmarty at hotmail.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I
tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the
OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was
frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with
it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box,
and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring  to
sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that
has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly,
and the OD worked perfectly.

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a
close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline
oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From SpiwakD at aol.com  Mon May 13 07:26:09 2013
From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:26:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
performance?
 
David Spiwak

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 13 07:35:28 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 15:35:28 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort/NL - first race of season
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002701ce4fde$bcf770f0$36e652d0$@com>

I had some trouble on this first season.

- practice: not too good - P8
- race 1: Leaked water out
- pulled head and fitted gasket of the previous design
- race 2: recovered from P39 to P13 - could have been better but half the
racind distance the safety car was out while they removed oil from the track
- race 3: went out on old tires. Started to rain. Lost some positions. Then
track dried out and the hunt was on and I ended up on 4th overall.

Race 3 - first few minutes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffhIm_zTyWs

Maybe you asked where these telemetric datas are gone. I just forgot to
bring my CF-storage card for the video equipment.
So I had to use the camera out of my Hummer.

Cheers
Chris

From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon May 13 08:01:55 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 07:01:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>

Junk from crooks. 
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
> performance?
> 
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From rjl6n at cstone.net  Mon May 13 08:01:48 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:01:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <02608357439d739ad010ddcb1d54261b.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

That company does not have a very good reputation.  You might check
the "Monster List":

http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html

John

On Mon, May 13, 2013 9:26 am, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com

From riverside at southslope.net  Mon May 13 09:30:02 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:30:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>

What Bill said.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bill Babcock
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
To: SpiwakD at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Junk from crooks.
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13 

From bownes at seiri.com  Mon May 13 09:50:25 2013
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:50:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>

+1

On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> What Bill said.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 13 10:07:48 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:07:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> See the second article, from June 2005.
> 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm

Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with oil
that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.

-- Randall 

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 10:10:33 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:10:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5CD8882A873C4BD494AF3361C88802E7@Vista>

Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative comments
about their quality and especially prices.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
performance?
 
David Spiwak
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From gasket.works at gte.net  Mon May 13 10:34:34 2013
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 16:34:34 +0000
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
	<213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <838641989-1368462880-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1858394632-@b4.c8.bise6.blackberry>

in 1995 I needed a gasket.  I ordered one from paeco. It was not satisfactory.   Hence Gasket Works was born.  
M
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:50:25 
To: <riverside at southslope.net><riverside at southslope.net>
Cc: Bill Babcock<ponobill at gmail.com>; fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

+1

On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> What Bill said.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 13 10:55:06 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:55:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Josh Files
Message-ID: <A848CD10-62E4-46B1-8580-E21396FD9BBE@cs.com>

Sent from my iPad
The press releases on Keith Files' son make great reading....

GO Josh!

From grandwazoo at earthlink.net  Mon May 13 11:06:37 2013
From: grandwazoo at earthlink.net (Mike Jackson)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:06:37 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 20+ years ago.

Mike Jackson


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative comments
>about their quality and especially prices.
>
>Joe C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
>performance?
> 
>David Spiwak
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 13 11:26:15 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:26:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <005701ce4ffe$f909a750$eb1cf5f0$@rr.com>

Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time only
business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!

russ

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Jackson
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 20+
years ago.

Mike Jackson


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative 
>comments about their quality and especially prices.
>
>Joe C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
>and performance?
> 
>David Spiwak
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon May 13 11:30:01 2013
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:30:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
	<9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9Pa5-=coMk-o+o_dWe6pHzZouRL7vGyEuZrT1KmJ6HB3w@mail.gmail.com>

I also run non-detergent 30 weight oil, the old stuff, on an "A" drive box
and have had no gearbox problems for 5 years of track time, shifts good and
pleased.



On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:07 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > See the second article, from June 2005.
> >
> > http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
>
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with
> oil
> that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
> about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer

From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon May 13 11:35:38 2013
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:35:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
	<213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <C87FF400-9885-4051-962B-57ECC842F104@yahoo.com>

I just replaced one of their 6500 rpm cams and springs combos. Got to it
before it tore up the rest of the motor.

Ty

Sent from my iPhone



On May 13, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> +1
>
> On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:
>
>> What Bill said.
>>
>> art de armond
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Junk from crooks.
>> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>>> performance?
>>>
>>> David Spiwak
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May 13 11:53:40 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:53:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>

Wow!  

I guess I should be thankful in 35 years, I've never dealt with PAECO.  

Do they kill babies too?

Bill (Damdinger)

PS And then load them on a truck with pitch forks?

From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 13 12:39:46 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:39:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Where is PAECO located?

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Junk from crooks.
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon May 13 12:50:37 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 14:50:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E29E1BA9-05F1-4625-B4C0-3DFD9E00FD72@gdhs.com>

Bham Al

Sent from my iPhone

On May 13, 2013, at 2:39 PM, Dennis DeLap <yellow-green at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Where is PAECO located?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
> Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
> To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
> Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jhouathome at aol.com  Mon May 13 12:55:07 2013
From: jhouathome at aol.com (Jhouathome)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:55:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E280971A-E3C3-455C-9FB5-64C552B02B0D@aol.com>

Birmingham, Alabama. Some of their off the shelf parts are good enough, but
service is spotty and shipping is not reliable.  In 34 seasons of racing I
have never encountered a single happy customer of their machining/engine
building services.  The reputation is "very unreliable", and rude or
non-responsive are bonuses.  There may be happy customers out there, but I
have never met one.
John

Sent from my iPad

On May 13, 2013, at 1:39 PM, Dennis DeLap <yellow-green at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Where is PAECO located?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
> Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
> To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
> Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Mon May 13 13:22:52 2013
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 15:22:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <39a607da.2dd50.13e9f586f5d.Webtop.10@optonline.net>

Did you get enough information and replies to make a sound decision?

Boy, I hope so!




On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 9:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
> and  performance?
>  David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net

From riverside at southslope.net  Mon May 13 12:42:27 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:42:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 12:53 PM
To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com ; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com ; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Wow!

I guess I should be thankful in 35 years, I've never dealt with PAECO.

Do they kill babies too?

Bill (Damdinger)

PS And then load them on a truck with pitch forks?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13 

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 13:45:53 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:45:53 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
	<EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <3F4EAFF5A96A4ADBBEF3A05E53A21221@Vista>

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in
business?  Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors.

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of
merchandise has is his reputation.  Lose that and you will not be allowed to
remain in business.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond

From alan at nosbritishparts.com  Mon May 13 13:53:29 2013
From: alan at nosbritishparts.com (Alan ...)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:53:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1368474809.29231.YahooMailNeo@web5806.biz.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

In the mid eighties , one of my employees was running an E-Prod MGB. He
ordered a 'competition' set of brake pads from PAECO at a cost of $40.00/set.
When the pads arrived they were the same stock CEW pads we kept in stock at
$8.00 a set. I got to witness my first 'conniption' . (sp?)
Alan T 
________________________________
 From: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:26 AM
Subject: [Fot]
PAECO engines
 

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about
quality and  
performance?

David Spiwak
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May 13 16:46:14 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 22:46:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1265863195.1622361.1368485174639.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My J type was shifting slow and sometimes not at all and it turned out to be a
sticky high pressure relief valve

was dragging in the bore. I swapped it out with a spare and has
workedB perfect with both 30 wt and 90 wt..

Jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: trmarty at hotmail.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 3:20:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I
tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the
OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was
frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with
it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box,
and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring B to
sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that
has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly,
and the OD worked perfectly.

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a
close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline
oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From cartravel at pobox.com  Mon May 13 16:46:27 2013
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:46:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>

I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's 
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.

I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally 
find that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be 
done.  I am aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to 
release from overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.  
Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the 
guy with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
Larry

On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
>> See the second article, from June 2005.
>>
>> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with oil
> that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
> about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rocky at spitfire4.com  Mon May 13 16:59:46 2013
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:59:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>

Yes, to my eternal dismay. Many years ago I *finally* saved up enough money 
to by a "Real Race Engine." and got it from PAECO -- knowing no better at 
the time. It was a boat anchor I had to live with for years as it was that 
long (a divorce intervening) before I could afford another.

* The engine was for a Mk. 1 Spitfire. The front plate was from a TR4, which 
bolts right on. Key difference: the Spitfire front plate has the motor 
mounts, the TR4's doesn't! Had to disassemble the whole front end and 
reassemble it just to be able to put it in the car!.
* I asked for a stock pan because I already had a baffled pan. Good thing. 
When I took the stock pan off it was full of what looked like layers of 
dried oil residue.
* #1 lifter had a burr in the lifter hole that kept it from going up and 
down. The burr was discovered the first time we tried to drive the car and 
it broke the camshaft almost immediately.
* When I sent it back for repair I specifically told them about the burr. 
When it was returned the burr was still there!
* It was promised in three months. It was delivered in 18 months. When I 
tried to cancel the order they wouldn't let me -- they already had my money 
and refused to give it back.
* They pledged to stand behind their product, so of course they repaired it 
for free on warranty -- but I had to pay the expensive two-way truck 
shipping.
* When they shipped it (at my expense) they rated the weight at 500 pounds, 
double what it really weighed. I had to sue the trucking company to get a 
refund of the shipping overpayment (I don't use that trucker any more 
either).
* "Competition valve springs" were of such poor quality most inner springs 
broke. One piece worked its way down to the oil pump and broke that.
* It was supposed to be a "full race" 13:1 engine. When I had a trusted 
friend rebuild it some years later I asked him to measure the compression 
ratio -- it came out 10.67:1.

What thy lack in ethics they more than compensate for with incompetence. 
Cannot believe they're still in business! In nearly 45 years in this sport, 
I have never dealt with any other business that even comes remotely close to 
this one in its disdain for its customers or its own product.

--Rocky Entriken


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SpiwakD at aol.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 8:26 AM
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines


> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak

From jkhagen at charter.net  Mon May 13 17:19:45 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 19:19:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>

If you want a good motor talk to Dean Johnson former F/P Spitfire 
National Champion.  Finally selling his stuff.  Lots of engines and two 
race cars and a fresh really cool "Macho" [sp]?  replica.  contact dean 
--at  dean at motorscope.net--612-759-6748


On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Spitfire Racing wrote:

> Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time 
> only
> business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!
>
> russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Mike Jackson
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 
> 20+
> years ago.
>
> Mike Jackson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>> Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative 
>> comments about their quality and especially prices.
>>
>> Joe C.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
>> On Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
>> and performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/grandwazoo at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon May 13 17:26:11 2013
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:26:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>
Message-ID: <51917693.6010600@dfn.com>

On 5/13/2013 4:59 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote:
> Yes, to my eternal dismay. Many years ago I *finally* saved up enough 
> money to by a "Real Race Engine." and got it from PAECO -- knowing no 
> better at the time. It was a boat anchor I had to live with for years 
> as it was that long (a divorce intervening) before I could afford 
> another.
>

This is the kind of guy that builds his shop in steel, knowing that one 
day, someone's going to try to burn it down. Thank goodness when I was 
young and stupid, I had no money at all.  Otherwise, I, too, might have 
made the same mistake.  Somewhere, I still have one of his catalogs from 
the mid-`70s or so.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Mon May 13 17:29:29 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 18:29:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just fine in our
gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend Redline MT90 is that
in testing of oils this particular product and also their MTL product
produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the gearbox during
break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I perform.  Some of
the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when warmed up and running
at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 30
weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of using engine oil.
At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I feel that the costs
of the best quality oils are the best value.

As far as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
clutches during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
been burned and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
not having enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
being produced by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
and are not that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
clutches with thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
particular overdrive to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
close so that a minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.  This
results in the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Larry Young
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.

I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally find
that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.  
Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
Larry

On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
>> See the second article, from June 2005.
>>
>> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars 
> with oil that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the 
> factory fill from about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 13 18:11:06 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:11:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
	<8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>

Steve built my racing j type and the shifting is great both in and out. Has
mtl oil.
On May 13, 2013 4:31 PM, "Steve Yott" <tr4 at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just fine in
> our
> gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend Redline MT90 is
> that
> in testing of oils this particular product and also their MTL product
> produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the gearbox during
> break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I perform.  Some of
> the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when warmed up and running
> at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 30
> weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of using engine oil.
> At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I feel that the costs
> of the best quality oils are the best value.
>
> As far as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
> clutches during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
> been burned and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
> not having enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
> being produced by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
> and are not that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
> clutches with thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
> particular overdrive to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
> close so that a minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.
>  This
> results in the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!
>
> Steve Yott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Young
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
> I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
> available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.
>
> I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally
> find
> that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
> aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
> overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.
> Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
> with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
> Larry
>
> On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
> >> See the second article, from June 2005.
> >>
> >> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> > Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars
> > with oil that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the
> > factory fill from about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
> >
> > -- Randall
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com

From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 13 18:41:07 2013
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 20:41:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>
References: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000601ce503b$b95b1610$2c114230$@rr.com>

The original poster of this runs a TR3 and was curious about Paeco. I build my
own (and others) Spitfire engines with great durability and stability at 8K. I
do admit to a number of conversations with Rick Cline and also using his cams
and some design specs.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: jkhagen at charter.net [mailto:jkhagen at charter.net]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 7:20 PM
To: Spitfire Racing
Cc: 'Mike Jackson'; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

If you want a good motor talk to Dean Johnson former F/P Spitfire National
Champion.  Finally selling his stuff.  Lots of engines and two race cars and a
fresh really cool "Macho" [sp]?  replica.  contact dean --at
dean at motorscope.net--612-759-6748


On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Spitfire Racing wrote:

> Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time
> only business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!
>
> russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Mike Jackson
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible
> 20+
> years ago.
>
> Mike Jackson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>> Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative
>> comments about their quality and especially prices.
>>
>> Joe C.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality
>> and performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/grandwazoo at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net

From britcars at bellsouth.net  Tue May 14 05:32:02 2013
From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 04:32:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
	<8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1368531122.52321.YahooMailNeo@web181703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

One thing I have not seen mentioned is the reason for a "gear" oil. It has
different additives that stop the extremely tight meshing of the gears from
shearing the oil molecules apart. Motor oil does not. I learned this from a
Castrol chemist/rep way back in the late 70s. Gear oil also has anti-foaming
additives. On every street trans I build, overdrive or not, gets gear oil.
________________________________
 From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
<triosan at gmail.com>
To: Steve Yott <tr4 at wi.rr.com> 
Cc: Friends
<fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
trans fluif
  

Steve built my racing j type and the shifting is great both in
and out. Has
mtl oil.
On May 13, 2013 4:31 PM, "Steve Yott" <tr4 at wi.rr.com>
wrote:

> Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just
fine in
> our
> gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend
Redline MT90 is
> that
> in testing of oils this particular product and also
their MTL product
> produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the
gearbox during
> break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I
perform.  Some of
> the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when
warmed up and running
> at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the
same viscosity as 30
> weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of
using engine oil.
> At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I
feel that the costs
> of the best quality oils are the best value.
>
> As far
as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
> clutches
during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
> been burned
and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
> not having
enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
> being produced
by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
> and are not
that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
> clutches with
thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
> particular overdrive
to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
> close so that a
minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.
>  This
> results in
the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!
>
> Steve Yott
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Young
> Sent: Monday,
May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
> I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
>
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.
>
>
I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally
> find
> that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
>
aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
>
overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.
> Redline oil seems to
help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
> with the experience on
this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
> Larry
>
> On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall
wrote:
> >> See the second article, from June 2005.
> >>
> >>
http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> > Then consider how absurd
it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars
> > with oil that would damage them
instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the
> > factory fill from about 1960 to the end
of the TR6 run.
> >
> > -- Randall
> >
_______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >
http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
>
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com/
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com/
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com/

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue May 14 07:50:56 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 09:50:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Cap Side Seals
Message-ID: <BLU168-W9628355ACCFDFFAD29B39EBAA10@phx.gbl>

The consensus is that I should not use the trim to fit cork strip that came
with my Payen gasket set but should use the pound in place felt rope type
product for the sides of the rear main cap on a TR3/4 block. I have contacted
Ted, TRF, Moss, BPNW. None of them have it. Since this appears to be what all
you folks use on your builds, where the heck can I get my hands on the stuff?
Finally finished up the Spitfire build and moved over to the TR4 and have hit
the brakes.

Thanks,
Marty

From riverside at southslope.net  Tue May 14 09:03:13 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 10:03:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8885E1B5BDB54705A02FE72451051E26@rileyPC>

Lots of diverse responses.   I am still pretty fuzzy on the theory end.
Ring flutter?  Does this really happen?   How does the wider 2nd ring
gap prevent it?   What is the downside of trapping pressure between
the rings if this really happen;   I cannot see there being much pressure
trapped there if the top ring is working.
I checked some new in the box rings from two different manufacturers
and there was no mention of special gap for ring 2.

art de armond

From: fubog1
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen



-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; FOT
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question






     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue May 14 09:55:45 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:55:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 main cap seal
Message-ID: <BLU168-W13187ABFC0DD3938E86C65ABAA10@phx.gbl>

Problem now solved. Thanks folks.

Marty

From riverside at southslope.net  Tue May 14 10:25:25 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:25:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>

Kind of related,   do any of you use shims to fill some of
the space behind the top ring ?

art de armond

From: fubog1
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen



-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; FOT
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question






     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 14 14:30:33 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:30:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
	<8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <02B7455C-1D27-4D13-920B-F74B5C5E816B@gdhs.com>

I've heard some drill very small holes in the top ring grove to apply pressure
against the cyl wall. Anyone heard of this?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 12:25 PM, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> Kind of related,   do any of you use shims to fill some of
> the space behind the top ring ?
>
> art de armond
>
> From: fubog1
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
> To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
> Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was
to
> prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
> Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
> Glen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
> To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>;
FOT
> <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
>
>
>
>
>
>     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than
the
> top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
> flutter or lifting.
> That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
> manufacture think different. I would go my what
> your piston manufacture says.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 13:44:32 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
	<EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <EF80DE13049A484087135935C7AF3DDD@Vista>

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in
business?  Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors.

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of
merchandise has is his reputation.  Lose that and you will not be allowed to
remain in business.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond

From jamesnorlin at gmail.com  Tue May 14 21:33:41 2013
From: jamesnorlin at gmail.com (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:33:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
Message-ID: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>

I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the 
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs.  Do I 
hear a second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com

From jamesnorlin at gmail.com  Tue May 14 21:43:41 2013
From: jamesnorlin at gmail.com (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:43:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] A lap of PIR
Message-ID: <5193046D.40805@gmail.com>

A while back, I think I mentioned that I was writing articles for our 
local Triumph Club newsletter.  Last month, I wrote a brief history of 
Portland International Raceway.  This month, the column is a narrated 
description of a hot lap of the track in our Spitfire.  It includes a 
link to a short Youtube Video as follows:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbYlUFEwlsM

Disclaimer:The racing line that I describe may be different that the one 
you should use depending upon your car and the way it is prepared.For 
example, our Spitfire's suspension is much stiffer and lower than stock 
but even so we have a tendency to lift the inner /rear/ tire during hard 
cornering.To prevent that tire from spinning, we run a welded, solid 
differential, which makes the car tend to understeer unless driven very 
hard.An MG Midget or AH Sprite on the other hand, tends to lift the 
inner /front/ wheel during hard cornering.The racing line that we take 
through turns 4 to 7 compared with the Spridgets is significantly different.


Jim

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed May 15 14:49:06 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 20:49:06 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
References: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B777F@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Second!

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 10:34 PM
To: FOT; norlin.patty at gmail.com
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the Spit
as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs.  Do I hear a
second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed May 15 15:39:54 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 21:39:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <02B7455C-1D27-4D13-920B-F74B5C5E816B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <29499046.1691211.1368653994824.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes,

That's gas porting, mine have them. The drag racers have the gas ports drilled
from the top.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: "<riverside at southslope.net>" <riverside at southslope.net>
Cc: "<fot at autox.team.net>" <fot at autox.team.net>, "fubog1" <fubog1 at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 2:30:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

I've heard some drill very small holes in the top ring grove to apply pressure
against the cyl wall. Anyone heard of this?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 12:25 PM, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> Kind of related, B  do any of you use shims to fill some of
> the space behind the top ring ?
>
> art de armond
>
> From: fubog1
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
> To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
> Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was
to
> prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
> Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
> Glen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
> To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>;
FOT
> <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
>
>
>
>
>
> B  B  Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than
the
> top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
> flutter or lifting.
> That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet. B Maybe some piston
> manufacture think different. I would go my what
> your piston manufacture says.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed May 15 20:44:02 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 19:44:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
References: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e868d68e-da24-4b21-b4a7-0f5ecf88410e@email.android.com>

She is faster than me.  I second it. The Norlin's are great Triumph
ambassadors.
Mike Mehl

Sent from my Kindle Fire



_____________________________________________
From: Jim Norlin <jamesnorlin at gmail.com>
Sent: Tue May 14 20:33:41 PDT 2013
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>, norlin.patty at gmail.com
Subject: [Fot] Nomination


I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs. Do I
hear a second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com
_____________________________________________

fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From haretoday at comcast.net  Thu May 16 10:25:55 2013
From: haretoday at comcast.net (haretoday at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 16:25:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <e868d68e-da24-4b21-b4a7-0f5ecf88410e@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <624479607.1860626.1368721555712.JavaMail.root@sz0138a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes, Yes....a great person--on the track and in the paddock! 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> 
To: "Jim Norlin" <jamesnorlin at gmail.com>, "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>, "norlin patty" <norlin.patty at gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:44:02 PM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination 

She is faster than me. I second it. The Norlin's are great Triumph 
ambassadors. 
Mike Mehl 

Sent from my Kindle Fire 



_____________________________________________ 
From: Jim Norlin <jamesnorlin at gmail.com> 
Sent: Tue May 14 20:33:41 PDT 2013 
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>, norlin.patty at gmail.com 
Subject: [Fot] Nomination 


I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the 
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs. Do I 
hear a second? 

Her e-mail is 

norlin.patty at gmail.com 
_____________________________________________ 

fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/haretoday at comcast.net 

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 15 21:42:27 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 03:42:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EF80DE13049A484087135935C7AF3DDD@Vista>
Message-ID: <1284922598.1962642.1368675747440.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Perhaps there is a trust fund or some other situation to help keep it afloat and it gives the kid something to do, even when they aren't kids anymore. I know of a couple of these type of arrangements bad reputation and all. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net> 
To: riverside at southslope.net, BillDentin at aol.com, tylerpthompson at yahoo.com, bownes at seiri.com 
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com, fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 12:44:32 PM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines 

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in 
business? Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily 
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors. 

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of 
merchandise has is his reputation. Lose that and you will not be allowed to 
remain in business. 

Joe C. 

-----Original Message----- 
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM 
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com 
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines 

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were 
total crap. So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way. 

art de armond 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net 

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Thu May 16 16:47:30 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 15:47:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
Message-ID: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html
 
I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver. 
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans. 
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could party
all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag video in
the link.
 
Mike Mehl #46 TR4

From billdentin at aol.com  Thu May 16 19:14:44 2013
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 21:14:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
In-Reply-To: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D020B30CA8032F-20BC-3227C@webmail-d225.sysops.aol.com>

He's a BADGER.

Bill Dentinger








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>; mdmehl <mdmehl at gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, May 16, 2013 5:47 pm
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle


http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html

I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver.
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans.
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could
party
all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag video
in
the link.

Mike Mehl #46 TR4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From gp89 at charter.net  Thu May 16 21:55:52 2013
From: gp89 at charter.net (Jeff Senty)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 23:55:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
Message-ID: <3c0ba403.7dce4b.13eb0a12c9d.Webtop.46@charter.net>

  Years ago, after he finished a race near Madison, a friend and I had 
the pleasure of tipping a few cold ones with Dick. He was a lot of fun. 
Loved talking to his fans.
Jeff Senty


On Thu, May 16, 2013 at 5:47 PM, Mike Mehl wrote:

> 
> http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
> car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html
>  I am sure some of you have
> seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible 
> driver. The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the 
> Daytona 500 back
> when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about 
> fans. He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each 
> night during
> speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very 
> entertaining
> evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing. 
> He said
> if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours 
> and if
> you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You 
> could party
> all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag 
> video in
> the link.
>  Mike Mehl #46 TR4
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gp89 at charter.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri May 17 01:36:15 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 09:36:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
In-Reply-To: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001201ce52d1$379383e0$a6ba8ba0$@com>

I only heard of Cole Trickle

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Mike Mehl
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Mai 2013 00:47
An: Triumph Friends of; mdmehl at gmail.com
Betreff: [Fot] Dick Trickle

http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-na
s
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html

I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver.
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans.
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could
party all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag
video in the link.

Mike Mehl #46 TR4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From billsohl at optonline.net  Sun May 19 16:53:43 2013
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 18:53:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive - 1988 One-Lap
Message-ID: <508E3FBFD4E5408EB761048EE678DA05@SohlPC>

Back in 1988, Charles Runyan and I co-drove the TRF TR-250 a total of 8300
 miles...over an 8 day time frame.  Except for one hotel stay about the 4th
 night, we literally
 were almost 100% on the road.  We finished 15th out of 54 entrants.

 Cheers,
 Bill Sohl

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Don TR" <58tr3a at videotron.ca>
> To: "'Mike Jankowski'" <mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com>; "'robert bownes'" 
> <bownes at seiri.com>
> Cc: "'FOT'" <FOT at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 6:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Longest Drive
>
>
>> As for the longest drive in my 1958 TR3A which I bought brand new in May,
>> 1958, I drove a total of 7300 "touring" miles from Montreal to VTR in
>> Portland Oregon in 2000 and then back home.
>>
>> Back about 1960 to 1963, I rallied my TR3A extensively and it was nothing
>> unusual to have a 500 or 600 mile rally.  Most was navigational, but 
>> during
>> the night sections, we had some spirited speeds to try to meet - not to 
>> be
>> late at the next control.
>>
>> Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
>> Montreal, Canada
>>
>> PS - I have driven "TRusty" over 110,000 miles since I did the full
>> restoration from 1987 to 1990.  In 2007, VTR gave me 384 points out of 
>> 400
>> in the judged concourse after having driven 94,000 miles since it was
>> restored.
>> --------- 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 20 07:44:41 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 08:44:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] : KASTNER CUP  2013  IN SEPTEMBER. Osthoff Resevations
References: <2F3096C0-79EC-4F4E-889C-0D0295A3EC60@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20FE7E34-E889-48D4-BA5C-7692749EC37F@cs.com>

> FOT
>
> We have exceeded our contracted rooms, but they continue accept Reservation
from us.
>
> Meeting with Angela on Friday says that there are 30 rooms left that are
allocated to Groups.
>
> I am not going to contract for additional rooms and suites, so govern
yourself accordingly.
>
> This the the perfect place to be and the suites are very cost effective with
our discount and when costs are shared.
>
> This is where it all happens when you are not at the track.  Banquet, old
course reenactment, Gather on the Green.
>
> See Angela's note below.
>
> Regards.
> Joe A
> Sent from my iPad
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: Angela Koran <akoran at osthoff.com>
>> Date: May 17, 2013, 3:19:40 PM CDT
>> To: 'Joe Alexander' <n197tr4 at cs.com>
>> Subject: RE: KASTNER CUP  2013  IN SEPTEMBER
>>
>> Good Afternoon Joe,
>>
>> It was nice seeing you again this morning. Joe, I wanted to let you know I
got a call from my Rooms Director this morning. Leisure reservations are
starting to increase over that race weekend. We are only allowed so many group
rooms to sell verses leisure rooms each night. So as of now we are down to 30
group rooms per night over the dates you are here. It would really be
advantageous to add rooms to your block if you know they will be needed. Let
me know what you find out from the other club ASAP and I can create an
addendum for those rooms. As rooms continue to sell on the leisure side and
other sales managers sell group rooms, the inventory will continue to dwindle
and additional rooms will not be available at the contracted rate if an
addendum is not created. I just wanted to give you a heads up so you are
educated and can make a decision from there. Please let me know if you have
questions Joe. Thank you for your time and have a great weekend!
>>
>> Angela Koran
>> Sales Manager
>> 101 Osthoff Avenue
>> Elkhart Lake, WI 53020
>> 920.876.5815 direct
>> 920.876.2249 fax
>> akoran at osthoff.com
>> www.osthoffmeetings.com
>> Voted "2012 Best Wisconsin Lakeshore Resort" by Wisconsin Meetings
Magazine.
>>
>>
>>
>> -----

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon May 20 08:08:05 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 10:08:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SP
Message-ID: <56BFEC29B1AB46D998D0C373832CD462@gdhs.local>

How did it go at Summit Point this past weekend?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Mon May 20 12:20:21 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 14:20:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SP
References: <56BFEC29B1AB46D998D0C373832CD462@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <274D8DF202CB4169A427FE71FE27CBB7@TRIUMPH.local>

Awesome weekend at Summit Point for Triumphs. The track was is great form, 
the weather cooperated better than most spring race weekends in the 
mountains of West Virginia. Leo Oddi was at the top Triumph by time I think, 
and I was again blown away by how fast my car goes without all those 
expensive billet and forged bottom end bits.

The only bad part of the weekend is nobody walked up and bought my car! I 
guess I have to run it at Mosport next month. Bummer!

Also worth noting, the weekend was Mike Moore's first outing in his TR4. He 
attended the VRG Drivers School, and ran the weekend with a very large run 
group. Both car and driver did really great. Mark and I watched his feature 
race on Saturday, Mike had a great run with a bunch of MG's. We stopped by 
his paddock space after the run to see how big the grin on his face was. 
Mike's was beaming, and his whole family was there and caught in the moment. 
I don't know who was more excited! It was very, very cool...

Way to go Mike, welcome to the madness! We are glad to have you.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Subject: [Fot] SP


> How did it go at Summit Point this past weekend? 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 20 12:29:27 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 13:29:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] IPO.  INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING.  REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
Message-ID: <82F80BBC-61E8-486E-B320-F31B7C39BD5F@cs.com>

Sean has 10 rear mounts in process with his final design.

If you would like to reserve one, please respond.

We have an isometric view of the mechanical parts and photos of finished
parts.

It is a HD version of the existing OEM part, except it utilizes 40 durometer
urethane instead of rubber of questionable value.

It will be particularly effective in TRs with the added weight of an O.D.
unit, but in any case it will be the last rear mount you ever replace.

We have used this HD rear mount in TR4 #197 for the past two years.

Allow two weeks for delivery. Sean is having the mechanical parts plated, and
will start to pour in custom production mold. Intro cost is $50.00.

We will use the FOT response to plan for the next production run.

Thanks,  Joe A

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon May 20 19:59:34 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 01:59:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Ian Priestly
Message-ID: <680222188.270651.1369101574070.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



Anyone on the list buy an overdrive from Ian Priestly (New Zealand). He occasionally offer conversion kits on Ebay. 



Ed Woods 

From mmoore at wave1.net  Tue May 21 08:30:53 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:30:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383

From sjanzen at me.com  Tue May 21 08:49:57 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:49:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>

The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is the
one to compare.
If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
reason the bottle is gold colored!
However, have never boiled the fluid again.

On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 21 09:11:21 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue May 21 09:27:53 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:27:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.20.1369150279.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

Castrol SRF for me too.

Tony Drews

At 10:11 AM 5/21/2013, John Hasty wrote:
>We use  SRF.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> > different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
>the
> > one to compare.
> > If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> > In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> > the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> > mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> > reason the bottle is gold colored!
> > However, have never boiled the fluid again.
> >
> > On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
> >
> > What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael T. Moore, CPA
> >
> > 2007 West 32nd Street
> >
> > Erie, PA 16508
> >
> >
> >
> > Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
> >
> > Fax:        814-864-7383

From dforeman at fooddude.com  Tue May 21 09:31:43 2013
From: dforeman at fooddude.com (dforeman at fooddude.com)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 15:31:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>

Castrol 
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 
To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dforeman at fooddude.com

From horizonracing at msn.com  Tue May 21 10:12:37 2013
From: horizonracing at msn.com (horizonracing)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:12:37 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <BAY403-EAS42250C70F8B5E5C239941A6B2A80@phx.gbl>

AP 551 on all of my cars . Compatible with girling/lockhead seals. I,ve had motul turn some rubber to mush .

My 2 cents


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> 
Date: 05/21/2013  8:28 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid 
 
Castrol SRF for me too.

Tony Drews

At 10:11 AM 5/21/2013, John Hasty wrote:
>We useB  SRF.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> > different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.B  The "wet" point is
>the
> > one to compare.
> > If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> > In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> > the brakes get hot.B  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> > mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.B  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> > reason the bottle is gold colored!
> > However, have never boiled the fluid again.
> >
> > On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
> >
> > What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael T. Moore, CPA
> >
> > 2007 West 32nd Street
> >
> > Erie, PA 16508
> >
> >
> >
> > Phone: 814-868-4831B  ext 103
> >
> > Fax:B B B B B B B  814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Tue May 21 10:46:08 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:46:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <484F5DE6-735B-444C-81E2-C37E72502260@gmail.com>

Any brand of DOT 5.1 that I can find (no, that's not silicone fluid in case
anyone's wondering).

Duncan
1952 Morgan Plus 4 (4-wheel drum brakes)
Red #6


On May 21, 2013, at 9:49 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com

From joeg at neb.rr.com  Tue May 21 07:15:24 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 08:15:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>

Friends,

I just got back from the Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing event at High Plains
Raceway in Colorado.  Went out with a local guy who wheels a Bugeye Sprite.
I'll post a link to his race videos when he finishes the production.  You'll
want to "ride along" on a few circuits of that track, as it is a real jewel
- see below.  I'll also work on getting my photos put up, and will post a
link to those as soon as I finish.  There were about a hundred different
cars at the event - from a McLaren CanAm car to a nearly stock MGA running
Historic Class.

I had a great time over the weekend.  They needed course workers to help man
some stations on the track because several regular workers were at The
Circuit Of The Americas in Austin, TX for a V8 Supercars event.  Others were
called off to safety training at Pikes Peak to get ready for the annual hill
climb there.  They were almost forced to shorten the course, which would
have been a real shame as two really cool track sections would have been
lost. Another friend from our travelling party and I ended up volunteering
and they managed to find enough other workers to keep the entire track open
for racing.

My buddy in the Sprite has been telling me how much he liked the track at
HPR and I now understand why.  It's an outstanding facility for the kind of
racing I want to do.   Unlike the two pretty flat tracks closer to me (MAM
near Council Bluffs, Iowa and MPH in Hastings, Nebraska), it has elevation
changes of up to 70 feet in some sections. There seemed to be passing
opportunities almost everywhere I looked, blind apexes in a couple spots, a
couple decreasing radius corners, some fast sweepers, a corkscrew, some nice
"esses", and a couple nice long straight sections.  The track seemed like it
would be a challenge, punishing mistakes but rewarding when attacked
properly.  I only got to ride along on three laps during one lunch break,
but I felt there were sections of the track that flowed very nicely. I
particularly liked the view downhill on what they call "To Hell On A
Bobsled" (corners 9a, 9b and 10).

I REALLY enjoyed my time at Turn 4 - the end of the longest straight
section.  I got to see the cars at speed up close and saw quite a bit of
racing action.  The racing was aggressive, but efforts were made to keep
everything "in the vintage spirit".  I saw more than one incident that in
SCCA (Sports Car Crashing Association"?) would have resulted in contact.
These resulted in a couple "off track excursions" when the overtaking driver
avoided contact by bailing out.  I'm not completely sure, but I don't think
there was any "metal to metal" all weekend.  Working allowed me a great
opportunity to see what it takes behind the scenes to put on a good event,
and gave me an appreciation for the work done by the many volunteers.  I was
impressed by the nearly "professional" level of organization at the event
and how everyone still managed to be friendly and outgoing and generous with
information.

My only regret was that I didn't manage to spend much time with the FOT
guys.  With trying to fix an ignition problem on the Bugeye Saturday night,
and working Turn 4 all day Sunday, I just didn't have the time to do
everything.  I wanted to spend some time hunting down Spitfire
owners/drivers/wrenches so I could pick their brains and managed to figure
some things out that should help me with my Spitfires.  I did get to meet
Kevin Lynch, "Too Damn Funky" Jim Grace, Mark Eden and son Christian, and we
paddocked next to Dan Forgey and "The Black Pearl" - his beautiful black
TR4. I missed getting into Race Control to meet Bill Rosenbach.  I also
didn't get race results yet, so hope to see a report from one of those guys
about how the FOT upheld it's honor over the weekend.

We started finalizing plans we for finishing my old SCCA Spitfire on the way
home, and it sounds like we might even get another car or two started for
some other guys.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue May 21 09:52:13 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:52:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
	<1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <3359D383-5468-4E0C-8CCD-1FED1F9DD66E@austin.rr.com>

I use ATE Super Blue. They also make an Amber version which is compatible and
is supposed to allow you to have 100 certainty when you flush out old fluid.
I'm still on the blue and I like it but the Castrol SRF out specs it. Like I
do with VR1 racing oil and GL4 gear oil, I like to do fluid changes often and
therefore I stay away from higher priced synthetics. ATE is a good fluid for
flushers like me!

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:31 AM, dforeman at fooddude.com wrote:

> Castrol
>>>>> Sent via Wireless<<<<
> David Foreman
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21
> To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid
>
> We use  SRF.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
>> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
> the
>> one to compare.
>> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
>> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as
yours,
>> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
>> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
>> reason the bottle is gold colored!
>> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>>
>> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>> Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dforeman at fooddude.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue May 21 12:40:08 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 14:40:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
	<001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <7f3b50de50cc6e3bbd0af2769372f5dd.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

Hey Joe,

Very nice write-up, thanks.  Yeah, working the corners
is not only great fun, but the second best spectator
seat in the house.  This makes me miss my days as a
corner worker with RMVR (back in the '80's - now I
feel old!).

John

On Tue, May 21, 2013 9:15 am, Joe Guinan wrote:
> Friends,

<Snip>

> I had a great time over the weekend.  They needed course workers to help
> man
> some stations on the track because several regular workers were at The
> Circuit Of The Americas in Austin, TX for a V8 Supercars event.  Others
> were
> called off to safety training at Pikes Peak to get ready for the annual
> hill
> climb there.  They were almost forced to shorten the course, which would
> have been a real shame as two really cool track sections would have been
> lost. Another friend from our travelling party and I ended up volunteering
> and they managed to find enough other workers to keep the entire track
> open
> for racing.

<Snip>

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Tue May 21 13:07:05 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:07:05 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202BD32A@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Castrol LMA.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Mike Moore
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:31 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com

From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue May 21 15:55:22 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 07:55:22 +1000
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>

Joe

i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
urethane.

we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
totally solved the mount problems

whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
mount.

thanks

Terry

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 21 16:48:33 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 17:48:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>

I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
understood his first two paragraphs.

I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand what
he was asking.

I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.

We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the expectation
that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.

It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and frame
isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be looking
forward to his reply.

Any other points of discussion?

Joe A
Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:

> Joe
>
> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
> urethane.
>
> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
> totally solved the mount problems
>
> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
> mount.
>
> thanks
>
> Terry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue May 21 17:40:28 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 09:40:28 +1000
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>

joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
mount.

design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).

mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
doing tests on various designs.

good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop

Terry





On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I understood his first two paragraphs.
>
> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand what he was asking.
>
> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>
> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>
> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be looking forward to his reply.
>
> Any other points of discussion?
>
> Joe A
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>
>> Joe
>>
>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>> urethane.
>>
>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>> totally solved the mount problems
>>
>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>> mount.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Terry
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 21 18:06:33 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:06:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>

Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus the
ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
problem.

The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.

So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was offered
and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next run.

If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a computer
isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.

Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had no
prior knowledge of.

Best Regards,

Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!

Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:

> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
> mount.
>
> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>
> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
> doing tests on various designs.
>
> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>
> Terry
>
>
>
>
>
> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
understood his first two paragraphs.
>>
>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand
what he was asking.
>>
>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>
>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>
>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
looking forward to his reply.
>>
>> Any other points of discussion?
>>
>> Joe A
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>> urethane.
>>>
>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>
>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>> mount.
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>> Terry
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From igofaster at att.net  Tue May 21 20:47:09 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
	<1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <1369190829.38629.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I'm using Motol...   Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: "dforeman at fooddude.com" <dforeman at fooddude.com>
To: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; Scott Janzen 
<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, May 21, 2013 10:32:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

Castrol 
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 
To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dforeman at fooddude.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net

From ponobill at gmail.com  Wed May 22 00:08:32 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 23:08:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>

Something tells me it will be better than my usual practice of welding the
plates together. I haven't noticed what Tony Garmey has done for mounts, but
Peyote used to be solid mounts in all three corners. I suspect Tony tossed
that away long ago.

On May 21, 2013, at 5:06 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus
the
> ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
> problem.
>
> The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.
>
> So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was offered
> and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next
run.
>
> If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a
computer
> isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.
>
> Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had
no
> prior knowledge of.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>
>> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
>> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
>> mount.
>>
>> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
>> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
>> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
>> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
>> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>>
>> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
>> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
>> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
>> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
>> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
>> doing tests on various designs.
>>
>> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>>
>> Terry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
> understood his first two paragraphs.
>>>
>>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand
> what he was asking.
>>>
>>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>>
>>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
> expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>>
>>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
> frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
> looking forward to his reply.
>>>
>>> Any other points of discussion?
>>>
>>> Joe A
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Joe
>>>>
>>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>>> urethane.
>>>>
>>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>>
>>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>>> mount.
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>>>
>>>> Terry
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Wed May 22 04:45:41 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:45:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>

I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough 
heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .

I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid


> What's the fluid of choice for you guys? 

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 05:08:35 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:08:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <A531CBA9-ACFE-473B-BC38-23A0FAAFF57B@austin.rr.com>

I used to do the exact same procedure using Castrol LMA but the Lemons TR6
experience taught me that you can boil it after a few hours in the Texas
summer heat. The better fluids absorb less moisture and handle the heat
better. At $20 a pint instead of $7 the ATE is good insurance and I get to
skip a few blessings here and there.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 5:45 AM, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

> I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an
> issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto
> parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough
> heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .
>
> I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends
> bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all

From Janzen at REcatalyst.com  Wed May 22 06:59:15 2013
From: Janzen at REcatalyst.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 08:59:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
Message-ID: <299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>

I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side, the
second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
 I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.

I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Wed May 22 06:59:40 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 08:59:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <C4FAA592BCCC45D198370831791DAEBD@hpd530>

I use the same, Henry. Never had a problem.
Mike: glad you had fun at SP; wish  I could have been there.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid


>I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
>issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
>parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get 
>enough heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. 
>.
>
> I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
> bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
> To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
> Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
>
>
>> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed May 22 07:50:19 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 09:50:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
Message-ID: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Janzen at REcatalyst.com writes:


> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one 
> side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
> I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
> 
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> 

All good points based on my experience.  One time I lost a trailer wheel 
towing through Plymouth, Wisconsin on the way to Road America.  I must have 
traveled a good mile and one half with only one wheel on the outside.  Some 
'good soul' saw me loose it, chased it, and then chased me to return it.  You 
can't buy that kind of roadside help.  It either comes for nothing, or you 
don't get it.  I replaced both tires on that side of the trailer, and since 
the stud holes were hogged out, I had to replace the wheel too.  Then last 
year, my wife and I had a blowout in the mountains coming back from the Mitty. 
 We're getting a little long in the tooth for changing tires on a loaded 
trailer, especially in the mountains with little or no pull off area.  
Fortunately it was on the inside, I was able to ease it to an area that had minimal 
adjacent room to pull off.  The rig was off the road, somewhat level, but 
we were working from a pretty steep incline.  The biggest problem was my 
aluminum jack had difficulty lifting the loaded trailer high enough to get the 
tire off the road.  It took a jack stand, and taking several new bites, but 
we finally got it changed.  We then got off at the next exit where we were 
able to replace both tires on that side.  Trailer tires is not a good place to 
try to 'save money'.  Buy good ones, over rated for the job.

Bob Wismer uses a single axle trailer, has had some blowout adventures, and 
now buys new trailer tires every 4 years regardless of tread depth or 
appearance.

Bill Dentinger

From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed May 22 08:02:03 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:02:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
References: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>

After traveling to races for some 27 years and having more "tire adventures"
than I ever wanted and hearing of a few motorhome episodes others had where
tires failed and tore up the coach itself, I took the advice of a good
friend Mack McCormick and installed a tire monitoring system. It was pretty
inexpensive; wireless and simple to install and program. The peace of mind
is great and I no longer am wondering if a tire is going bad when a weird
road surface causes strange noises. The system monitors temperatures and
pressures and will also alarm if there's a rapid air loss, giving the driver
an advance notice. I have no financial connection with these folks. There
are other systems also out there. It is not expensive. 

http://www.tsttruck.com/Home_Page.html

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:50 AM
To: Janzen at REcatalyst.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info

In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
Janzen at REcatalyst.com writes:


> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one 
> side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
> I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
> 
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> 

All good points based on my experience.  One time I lost a trailer wheel 
towing through Plymouth, Wisconsin on the way to Road America.  I must have 
traveled a good mile and one half with only one wheel on the outside.  Some 
'good soul' saw me loose it, chased it, and then chased me to return it.
You 
can't buy that kind of roadside help.  It either comes for nothing, or you 
don't get it.  I replaced both tires on that side of the trailer, and since 
the stud holes were hogged out, I had to replace the wheel too.  Then last 
year, my wife and I had a blowout in the mountains coming back from the
Mitty. 
 We're getting a little long in the tooth for changing tires on a loaded 
trailer, especially in the mountains with little or no pull off area.  
Fortunately it was on the inside, I was able to ease it to an area that had
minimal 
adjacent room to pull off.  The rig was off the road, somewhat level, but 
we were working from a pretty steep incline.  The biggest problem was my 
aluminum jack had difficulty lifting the loaded trailer high enough to get
the 
tire off the road.  It took a jack stand, and taking several new bites, but 
we finally got it changed.  We then got off at the next exit where we were 
able to replace both tires on that side.  Trailer tires is not a good place
to 
try to 'save money'.  Buy good ones, over rated for the job.

Bob Wismer uses a single axle trailer, has had some blowout adventures, and 
now buys new trailer tires every 4 years regardless of tread depth or 
appearance.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Wed May 22 11:34:51 2013
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:34:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
Message-ID: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>

We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race 
at Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section 
of I5.  A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - 
I never felt or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it 
off, the windshield wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the 
freeway off ramp.  Put on my spare and then found a replacement wheel 
and tire to carry with me as a spare.  I replaced all four of the 
remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my race tire dealer bring 
them to the track which was very convenient.

On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>   I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 05:42:29 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:42:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
	<B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>

I have used the TRF HD tranny mounts with the cavity filled with automotive
silicone successfully now for years. Welded mounts used with racing engine
mounts caused float bowl issues for me. The silicone acts like the gel in
running shoes, absorbs a lot of harmonics.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 1:08 AM, Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote:

> Something tells me it will be better than my usual practice of welding the
> plates together. I haven't noticed what Tony Garmey has done for mounts,
but
> Peyote used to be solid mounts in all three corners. I suspect Tony tossed
> that away long ago.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 5:06 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus
> the
>> ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
>> problem.
>>
>> The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.
>>
>> So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was
offered
>> and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next
> run.
>>
>> If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a
> computer
>> isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.
>>
>> Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had
> no
>> prior knowledge of.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
>> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>
>>> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
>>> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
>>> mount.
>>>
>>> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
>>> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
>>> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
>>> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
>>> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>>>
>>> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
>>> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
>>> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
>>> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
>>> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
>>> doing tests on various designs.
>>>
>>> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>>>
>>> Terry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
>> understood his first two paragraphs.
>>>>
>>>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't
understand
>> what he was asking.
>>>>
>>>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>>>
>>>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
>> expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>>>
>>>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
>> frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
>> looking forward to his reply.
>>>>
>>>> Any other points of discussion?
>>>>
>>>> Joe A
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
>> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Joe
>>>>>
>>>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>>>> urethane.
>>>>>
>>>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>>>
>>>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>>>> mount.
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> Terry
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 11:55:48 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 12:55:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>
References: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
	<003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <6F3C407A-5B65-4032-985A-116227D7CB0F@austin.rr.com>

Don't forget that truck tire shops offer road service. I learned this a couple
of years ago, the hard way.

I too have moved to the 4 year method after losing a tire on the 28 ft, 2 car,
10K rig. After swapping a spare I took it to a truck tire shop and had them
replace the blown out tire and headed off toward the track. I stopped for
lunch only to catch z second "perfectly good" tire separating treads. I called
the truck tire company and they set me up with road service and I had the
other three replaced.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 9:02 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> After traveling to races for some 27 years and having more "tire
adventures"
> than I ever wanted and hearing of a few motorhome episodes others had where
> tires failed and tore up the coach itself, I took the advice of a good
> friend Mack McCormick and installed a tire monitoring system. It was pretty
> inexpensive; wireless and simple to install and program. The peace of mind
> is great and I no longer am wondering if a tire is going bad when a weird
> road surface causes strange noises. The system monitors temperatures and
> pressures and will also alarm if there's a rapid air loss, giving the
driver
> an advance notice. I have no financial connection with these folks. There
> are other systems also out there. It is not expensive.
>
> http://www.tsttruck.com/Home_Page.html
>
> Russ Moore
> Spitfire #49
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:50 AM
> To: Janzen at REcatalyst.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
>
> In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
> Janzen at REcatalyst.com w

From ponobill at gmail.com  Wed May 22 12:41:43 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 11:41:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
	<519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <80E7F803-E87B-4E61-BE71-9DE2BFE6801B@bnj.com>

One thing that makes trailer tires particularly prone to punctures is that
your truck drive wheels stand up nails. If your tire stands up nails often
enough your trailer will find one that's standing just as it runs over it.
It's the same reason you get nails in your back tires and not in your front.
The cure is the same as we used to do ot motorcycles--put a stiff flap in
front of the tires to knock the nails back down. On bikes it changed flats
from common to never.


On May 22, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Jim Norlin <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
wrote:

> We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race at
Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section of I5.
A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - I never felt
or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it off, the windshield
wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the freeway off ramp.  Put on my
spare and then found a replacement wheel and tire to carry with me as a spare.
I replaced all four of the remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my
race tire dealer bring them to the track which was very convenient.
>
> On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side,
the
>> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
>> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>>  I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
>> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
>> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
>> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>>
>> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From walt at hot-tr6.com  Wed May 22 12:53:35 2013
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 12:53:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 heater fan motor
Message-ID: <000001ce571d$aa4611f0$fed235d0$@hot-tr6.com>

I need a working heater fan motor for a 1973 Triumph TR6 restoration I am
working on. If any FOT member has one they can sell me please contact me
directly.

Thank You,

Walter Hollowell

Albuquerque, New Mexico

Ph 505 362-4350

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May 22 13:37:20 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 15:37:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup Shirts and Drivers
Message-ID: <BLU168-W113440C9A913549BAAD97A1BAA90@phx.gbl>

Third to last call.  If you are planning on competing in the Kastner Cup event
at Road America in September and have not given me your name and car info so I
can include you on the back of the shirt you might want to do so. You can
always notify me at "last call" in July and tell me to remove your info if you
decide you wont be making it. We currently have a little over 60 drivers
planning on attending. I will be sending a list of names for placement on the
FOT site in the near future. Also, if you are going to order shirts and have
not done so you should get that done. For the shirt order I will need your
name and address, how many of what size shirts you want, whether you want the
shirts mailed to you or if you will be picking them up at the track. Again,
for payment, after I place the order in July you will need to contact Ted S.
and make arrangements to pay him directly. OK, now read the shirt order info
again as there is always questions on this. :) If you have done the above you
would have received a confirmation email from me at that time so no need to
resend. There are 116 shirts on order so far. All shirts are pre-order.

Thanks,

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Wed May 22 14:14:16 2013
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (J. Wagner)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:14:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
	<B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
	<41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CFC60013-6650-4038-8615-9F878899BE1E@greenheart.com>

> I like Bob's idea of injecting the void with silicone.
>
> On my street TR4A, many years ago, I trimmed and punched holes in piece of
brass shim stock that I put between the rear trans mount and tranny like a
gasket, but left a few inches of material hanging out along the front edge
that I strategically bent down to create an oil shield from the oil the
inevitably makes its way through the drain hole just below the clutch and
whatever other sources of motor oil that makes its way to this area.  It has
kept my rear mount bone dry for years.   I believe this has increased the life
of the mount quite significantly by keeping the degrading properties of oil
off the natural rubber.  Before this, it seems like I replaced a lot of mounts
on various Triumphs I have owned not so much from dry-cracking as much as
simply dissolving!
> Food for thought.
>
> I'm very curious to hear more about Joe's new rear mount.
>
> --Justin
>
> On May 22, 2013, at 4:42 AM, Bob Kramer <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> I have used the TRF HD tranny mounts with the cavity filled with
automotive
>> silicone successfully now for years. Welded mounts used with racing engine
>> mounts caused float bowl issues for me. The silicone acts like the gel in
>> running shoes, absorbs a lot of harmonics.
>>
>> Bob Kramer
>> Sent from my iPhone

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May 22 14:21:41 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 16:21:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT Logo
Message-ID: <BLU168-W62E0D6C6448CFC3B188149BAA90@phx.gbl>

I need a clean jpeg of the FOT logo. I had one at one time but don't know
where I filed it so I wouldn't lose it. Anybody have it they could email me?

Thanks,

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed May 22 14:23:38 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:23:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Fot, 

I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is any consensus. 

The question is two parts. 

EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach users guide will say the probes should be located 

6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey readings out there so he suggests 6" from the valve. 

That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's but yet my plugs are telling a richer story. 

It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the probe is right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus 

reading artificially high. 



So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what kind of EGT's they see. 

When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 1400F as normal. 

It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston melting going on. 



Thanks again for the input, 

jim g 

From cofrog at q.com  Wed May 22 15:05:51 2013
From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:05:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>

Thanks to you for working a corner and to all the workers who enabled us to run the long course.  I'm glad you enjoyed the weekend.  I hope to see you and Terry Davis at Hastings.

All who run High Plains give it high marks.  I hope that folks decide to take a tow out here and check it out.  It would be an outstanding track for a Kastner Cup except for it's relative remoteness for those who stay in Motels.   

I don't know if it's me but I'm unable to get any results on My Laps since they supposedly they "improved" the site.  If anyone knows anything about what's up with My Laps please share.  Due to Jim Gray having mechanical issues I was able to take D Production in the four races I ran with Jim Roelofs in lurking mode in his TR4. 

Dan Forgey


_______________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 16:58:08 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:58:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <001101ce573f$d4daac60$7e900520$@com>

We've been using NAPA DOT 4 Bake fluid for at least 5 years.  The cans used
to be marked "Low Moisture Absorbing" but are not marked as that any more.
The wet boiling point is "at least 311 degrees F".  We've never had any
problems and bleed and change the fluid before each season.

For what it's worth, the temperature of our front rotors coming off the
track after a session range between 300 deg F and 450 deg. F.  The large
variation is probably dependent on the track and how for our paddock area is
from the track exit.  At any given track and paddock area, the number is
pretty consistent.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of yellow04 at tr4racer.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 5:46 AM
To: Mike Moore; 'FOT'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough

heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .

I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid


> What's the fluid of choice for you guys? 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 17:06:57 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:06:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
	<519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001201ce5741$12719f10$3754dd30$@com>

Ryan lost a tire when he was using the trailer (24 foot enclosed) to haul
some surplus equipment, shelves, workbenches etc.  The tire pretty much just
disintegrated and he noticed it right away as the pieces were bouncing off
the trailer making quite a racket.  Fortunately he was only a couple of
miles from the shop.  We carry 12" square by 2" thick pieces of wood on the
trailer and we were able to easily drive the tire that was left up onto a
wood ramp to take off the old wheel and put on the spare.  That was always
our plan if we had a flat and it worked good.  We then replaced all 4 tires
with ones with a  load rating of "E", I think they are 10 ply.  The old ones
were "D" load rated.  The old tires were 6 years old without that many miles
on them.

Tim & Ryan

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 12:35 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info

We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race 
at Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section 
of I5.  A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - 
I never felt or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it 
off, the windshield wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the 
freeway off ramp.  Put on my spare and then found a replacement wheel 
and tire to carry with me as a spare.  I replaced all four of the 
remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my race tire dealer bring 
them to the track which was very convenient.

On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side,
the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>   I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 17:19:48 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:19:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001301ce5742$db9842d0$92c8c870$@com>

We have a TR4 with about 11:1 CR.  Our EGT's are mounted on #1 and #4 header
pipes about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inches from the cylinder head.  They are not
exactly equal.  #1 and #4 header pipes were used because they were a lot
easier to get the probes on.  At 3000 RPM "idle" (no load) we get between
800 and 1000 degrees.  Down the straights we get between 1300 and 1400
degrees, WOT in 4th.

One note for what it's worth: the pistons are being cooled every cycle by
the incoming charge whereas the EGT probes do not get any appreciable
cooling.  Even the exhaust ports get some cooling from the water jacket.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:24 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again

Fot, 

I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is any
consensus. 

The question is two parts. 

EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach users guide
will say the probes should be located 

6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey readings out
there so he suggests 6" from the valve. 

That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's but yet
my plugs are telling a richer story. 

It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the probe is
right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus 

reading artificially high. 



So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what kind of
EGT's they see. 

When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 1400F
as normal. 

It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston melting
going on. 



Thanks again for the input, 

jim g 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May 22 19:07:55 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:07:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals.  100 produced
Message-ID: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>

I ordered and received 100 FOT decals today.

$10 will get you two delivered to your address.

Checks preferred, but PayPal is convenient.

FOT  
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA.  50648

PayPal.  N197tr4 at cs.com

Thanks

Sent from my iPad

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May 22 21:19:27 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 22:19:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.eme
	ryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.21.1369279379.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

I run about 6" from the flange.  I run 1400 in the 2nd half of the 
straights and have never seen any evidence of melting on my forget 
pistons.  I suspect that thinner cast pistons may be more susceptible 
to melting.  I also run 110 octane leaded and about 32 degrees of advance.

Tony Drews

At 03:23 PM 5/22/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>Fot,
>
>I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is 
>any consensus.
>
>The question is two parts.
>
>EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach 
>users guide will say the probes should be located
>
>6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey 
>readings out there so he suggests 6" from the valve.
>
>That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's 
>but yet my plugs are telling a richer story.
>
>It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the 
>probe is right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus
>
>reading artificially high.
>
>
>
>So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what 
>kind of EGT's they see.
>
>When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 
>1400F as normal.
>
>It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston 
>melting going on.
>
>
>
>Thanks again for the input,
>
>jim g
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May 23 06:03:50 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305230749430.12428@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything 
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the 
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with 
clutch disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem 
could be that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but 
I installed a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch 
installation - and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel 
spin or clutch slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock 
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can 
restrict the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch 
release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a 
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push 
the slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a 
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new 
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross 
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when 
I start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta 
work on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sjanzen at me.com  Thu May 23 06:42:37 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:42:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <20130523032321.5B5E340E67@autox.team.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523032321.5B5E340E67@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>

2" from the head.   1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
determine.

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May 23 08:19:22 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:19:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
Message-ID: <368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks guys for the input.

We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange

and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
1362F for EGT's.

Very helpful,

Jim G.



----- Original Message -----


From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again

2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
determine.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 08:30:01 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:30:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emer
	yville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.23.1369319646.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and 
included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the 
EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".

Tony Drews

At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>Thanks guys for the input.
>
>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>
>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
>1362F for EGT's.
>
>Very helpful,
>
>Jim G.
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>
>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
>determine.

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May 23 09:38:17 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:38:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>

Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you shoot 
for?
Thanks, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages


> By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and included 
> the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the EGT's produced 
> at that time as "baseline".
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>
>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>
>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange 
>>and
>>1362F for EGT's.
>>
>>Very helpful,
>>
>>Jim G.
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>
>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees 
>>advance.
>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers 
>>to
>>determine.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Thu May 23 09:49:27 2013
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (K LYNCH)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:49:27 -0600
Subject: [Fot] LBC parts quest
Message-ID: <BLU178-DS566A3586FB0B49BA7D719B7AA0@phx.gbl>

Hi gang.
I'm looking for a pair of seats from a (57'?) A.H. 100-4.
I realize this is a longshot, but thought I'd run this up the flag-pole.
Thanks in advance !

Kev Lynch
Colo.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 09:57:53 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:57:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
Message-ID: <mailman.24.1369324885.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than 
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 
12.5:1.  So, some of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when 
the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The 
leaded gas kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno 
session and we killed it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you 
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and 
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the 
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
>>>1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 
>>>degrees advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>>>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
>>>determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu May 23 10:32:06 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 16:32:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
Message-ID: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello friends, 
I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem. 
I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will have to come off the pad. 


Thanks, 
Dave 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu May 23 10:36:58 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:36:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
Message-ID: <8D2D4845-668D-4D87-88EB-BBA45CFE69D8@cs.com>

There about 20 decals spoken for.

I would like to do several at once, so if you are thinking about, please go
ahead.

And then I can put the money back in the FOT Fund, too.

It wouldn't hurt thank the 22 folks who recently made contributions to the
fund. This really makes planning and decisions much easier.

While I am at it, if you have an outstanding balance on your Lester Garage
stall, please remit ASAP.

Jason and I reviewed our paddock area last Friday and it continues to seem
ideal.

Thanks,

Joe

From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 10:37:39 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:37:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emer
	yville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.25.1369327272.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up.  For 
racing, I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ).  We 
didn't like the Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked 
easily, were hard on the rotors and left little bits of molten rotor 
stuck in the paint of the wheel.

Cheers, Tony

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote:
>Hello friends,
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have 
>put over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over 
>and they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between 
>stops sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from 
>Moss and the outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious 
>that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads 
>went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying to 
>fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss 
>pads where fat and same problem.
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have 
>had no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I 
>guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has 
>anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and 
>hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" 
>will have to come off the pad.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu May 23 10:48:54 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:48:54 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01ce57d5$6a219780$3e64c680$@com>

I run EBC yellow stuff.
They always fit well. But they are not aggressive pads. They do a gentle
job, especially on the wet.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von davehogye
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013 18:32
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit

Hello friends,
I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over
500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered
a set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit
in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper,
but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until
trying to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the
Moss pads where fat and same problem.
I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured,
calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this.
Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside
pads to fit them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be
measuring things and hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like
at least .050" will have to come off the pad.


Thanks,
Dave
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From ponobill at gmail.com  Thu May 23 11:31:33 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:31:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D66C37DB-D14C-40CF-81DB-4E6787910EC8@bnj.com>

Sure, it's a common problem with aftermarket calipers. You can shim the
calipers to center them, or shave the pads. Easiest way to shave pads it to
put a flat metal plate on a drill press and chuck a cup grinding wheel in the
drill. Slide the pad around under the cup to remove layers. wear a respirator.

Mr. Kastner told me about this many years ago as a way to eliminate taper from
a worn or glazed disk. Works great.
On May 23, 2013, at 9:32 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hello friends,
> I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over
500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered a
set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit in
the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but
the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying
to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads
where fat and same problem.
> I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured,
calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. Perhaps
the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit
them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and
hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will have
to come off the pad.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 23 12:06:56 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:06:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <20130523164525.3890340527@autox.team.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523164525.3890340527@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C71DB683AECE4714AB735A6FC440ECA4@gdhs.local>

We use Carbotech in my TR3A race car as well.  Be sure and tell Mike
(704-481-8554) they are for your TR3 so they won't make them too thick as
used in some of the NASCAR applications.  My part # is CTGD500-AX6.  He has
a record under my name as to the correct thickness.....


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
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is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
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and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
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any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
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addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:38 PM
To: davehogye; Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up.  For racing,
I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ).  We didn't like the
Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked easily, were hard on the
rotors and left little bits of molten rotor stuck in the paint of the wheel.

Cheers, Tony

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote:
>Hello friends,
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and 
>they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops 
>sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the 
>outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is 
>not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I 
>hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another 
>set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem.
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had 
>no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess 
>I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else 
>come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out 
>what's going on, but it looks like at least .050"
>will have to come off the pad.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May 23 12:15:41 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:15:41 +0000
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
	<20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>

And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that gasoline fuel
stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's right as usual.  I've
been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and thinking that was a good thing.

Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at the
plugs...



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
To: Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 12.5:1.  So, some
of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The leaded gas
kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno session and we killed
it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
>>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
>>>advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
>>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
>>>with the webers to determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 12:31:34 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 13:31:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccart
	y-law.com>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
	<20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.26.1369334117.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

14.7:1 is for unleaded gas / cat converter.  The EPA redefined it for us.

Tony

At 01:15 PM 5/23/2013, Barr, Scott wrote:
>Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>
>
>And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that 
>gasoline fuel stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's 
>right as usual.  I've been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and 
>thinking that was a good thing.
>
>Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at 
>the plugs...
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
>On Behalf Of Tony Drews
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
>To: Bill Tobin
>Cc: fot
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer 
>than stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 
>12.5:1.  So, some of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when 
>the exhaust port opens.
>
>The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The 
>leaded gas kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno 
>session and we killed it by the end of the testing.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
> >Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
> >shoot for?
> >Thanks, Bill
> >----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> >To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> >Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
> >
> >
> >>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
> >>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
> >>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
> >>
> >>Tony Drews
> >>
> >>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
> >>>Thanks guys for the input.
> >>>
> >>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
> >>>
> >>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
> >>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
> >>>
> >>>Very helpful,
> >>>
> >>>Jim G.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> >>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
> >>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
> >>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
> >>>
> >>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
> >>>advance.
> >>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
> >>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
> >>>with the webers to determine.
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >>http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu May 23 13:03:22 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:03:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <C71DB683AECE4714AB735A6FC440ECA4@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <680215001.2218328.1369335802244.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks everybody for the great response to my "problem", not too much. 
Thanks for the inside info with Carbotech, John. 
Yes Joe, but the caliper would have to move outward. Tony suggested shimming the carrier. Not a bad idea. I'd like to get the thing centered up. 
The path of least resistance would be to shave the pads. Thanks Bill, for suggesting the respirator. It's nice to know someone cares. Maybe I'll just move my drill press outside. It's a beautiful breezy day here in Santa Cruz and I won't get my shop all dusty. I'll wear a respirator and hold my breath too. 
This group is my favorite by far, racers rule, 
Dave 

----- Original Message -----
From: "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> 
To: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>, "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net>, Fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:06:56 AM 
Subject: RE: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit 

We use Carbotech in my TR3A race car as well. Be sure and tell Mike 
(704-481-8554) they are for your TR3 so they won't make them too thick as 
used in some of the NASCAR applications. My part # is CTGD500-AX6. He has 
a record under my name as to the correct thickness..... 


John H. Hasty 
Attorney At Law 
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C. 
719 East Boulevard 
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113 
Tele: (704) 372-5600 
Fax: (704) 372-4601 
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com 
www.gdhs.com 

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message (and any attachments) is 
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that 
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT. 
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any 
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have 
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message 
and its attachments and notify us immediately. Thank you. 

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE: In order to comply with certain IRS regulations 
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise, 
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments) 
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of 
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, 
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter 
addressed herein. 
-----Original Message----- 
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of Tony Drews 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:38 PM 
To: davehogye; Fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit 

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up. For racing, 
I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ). We didn't like the 
Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked easily, were hard on the 
rotors and left little bits of molten rotor stuck in the paint of the wheel. 

Cheers, Tony 

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote: 
>Hello friends, 
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and 
>they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops 
>sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the 
>outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is 
>not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I 
>hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another 
>set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem. 
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had 
>no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess 
>I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else 
>come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out 
>what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" 
>will have to come off the pad. 
> 
> 
>Thanks, 
>Dave 
>_______________________________________________ 
>fot at autox.team.net 
> 
>http://www.fot-racing.com 
> 
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com 

From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 23 14:15:26 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 15:15:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com><368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net><DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530><20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <D7E518497F084219836921EA9BC3190D@rileyPC>

We recently put our ChumpCar Alfa 116 on a chassis dyno
and learned lots of neat stuff.   Like, we were at 13:1
and thought it was good.
We adjusted the fuel injection to 12.5 and picked up a few
horsepower until the ratio started to slowly lean out to
13.1: at 5k rpm.    This told us we had a fuel delivery
problem of some sort that we had not been aware of.  Also told
us there was some more hp on the table.
Our dyno operator was very helpful and knowledgeable.
Money and time VERY well spent.

art de armond
-----Original Message----- 
From: Barr, Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:15 PM
To: 'Tony Drews' ; Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>

And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that gasoline 
fuel
stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's right as usual.  I've
been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and thinking that was a good thing.

Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at the
plugs...



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf
Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
To: Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 12.5:1.  So, 
some
of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The leaded gas
kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno session and we killed
it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
>>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
>>>advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
>>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
>>>with the webers to determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net





-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6350 - Release Date: 05/23/13 

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May 23 16:23:10 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:23:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<D66C37DB-D14C-40CF-81DB-4E6787910EC8@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <E60200EE10E74B699E873C814AA87460@hpd530>

Bill, I use a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck to true mine. However if 
you don't happen to have a surface grinder...........
That drill press trick works well.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: <Fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit


> Sure, it's a common problem with aftermarket calipers. You can shim the
> calipers to center them, or shave the pads. Easiest way to shave pads it 
> to
> put a flat metal plate on a drill press and chuck a cup grinding wheel in 
> the
> drill. Slide the pad around under the cup to remove layers. wear a 
> respirator.
>
> Mr. Kastner told me about this many years ago as a way to eliminate taper 
> from
> a worn or glazed disk. Works great.
> On May 23, 2013, at 9:32 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello friends,
>> I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>> over
> 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
> squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I 
> ordered a
> set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit 
> in
> the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, 
> but
> the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until 
> trying
> to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss 
> pads
> where fat and same problem.
>> I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>> remanufactured,
> calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
> caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. 
> Perhaps
> the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to 
> fit
> them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things 
> and
> hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will 
> have
> to come off the pad.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 24 08:48:09 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:48:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
Message-ID: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>

Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.

PayPal paid decals going out today.

Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.

We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.

Joe A



Sent from my iPad

From apackard68 at att.net  Fri May 24 10:26:17 2013
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andy Packard)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:26:17 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
Message-ID: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>

I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?

Andy Packard
Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>
> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>
> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>
> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>
> Joe A
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 24 10:38:15 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 11:38:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
Message-ID: <CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>

They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
again.

The logo has become a sign of distinction.

Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
volunteering.

Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.

I don't remember who did it last.

You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for them
out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money back.

Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net

From jaxonracing at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 12:30:17 2013
From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (Jaxon Racing)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 14:30:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
Message-ID: <837C0076-62A8-4F0C-9461-3BB1E3517112@yahoo.com>

I would like one for my drivers suit

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 12:26 PM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
> interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com

From horizonracing at msn.com  Wed May 22 19:21:54 2013
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:21:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
References: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>,
	<512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-W944138572C5CA71446265B2AA0@phx.gbl>

The folks that Run High plains Raceway are GREAT (fun) ! I went a couple of
years ago for  Formula B get together. Track is tricky/busy and a couple of
really quick (pull up ya big boy panty's) type corners.
Yes, The good hotels are 50 ? freeway miles away, but not really big deal.


> Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:05:51 -0400
> From: cofrog at q.com
> To: joeg at neb.rr.com
> CC: klynch_6 at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net; edenma at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
>
> Thanks to you for working a corner and to all the workers who enabled us to
run the long course.  I'm glad you enjoyed the weekend.  I hope to see you and
Terry Davis at Hastings.
>
> All who run High Plains give it high marks.  I hope that folks decide to
take a tow out here and check it out.  It would be an outstanding track for a
Kastner Cup except for it's relative remoteness for those who stay in Motels.
>
> I don't know if it's me but I'm unable to get any results on My Laps since
they supposedly they "improved" the site.  If anyone knows anything about
what's up with My Laps please share.  Due to Jim Gray having mechanical issues
I was able to take D Production in the four races I ran with Jim Roelofs in
lurking mode in his TR4.
>
> Dan Forgey
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com

From my71spit13 at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 14:21:49 2013
From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 13:21:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Patches and KCup roommates
Message-ID: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I would be interested in FoT patches. Also, are there tshirts available?
 
On
another note, would anyone have an extra room at the Osthoff that my wife and
I could split costs with at the KCup. We had not reserved a room and it may be
too late to get the room we wanted, since we are over the amount of reserved
rooms. Cost affective would be to split a room. Let me know. Thanks
 
Shawn
Frank
515-339-4228

From wgaplin at bellsouth.net  Fri May 24 16:04:30 2013
From: wgaplin at bellsouth.net (Warren Aplin)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 18:04:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
	<CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
Message-ID: <002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>

I would like both a  couple of patches and a few stickers.  I am unable to
make Road America, but would gladly preorder and send a check

Warren Aplin
Jupiter, FL
561-748-8187

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:38 PM
To: Andy Packard
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!

They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
again.

The logo has become a sign of distinction.

Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
volunteering.

Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.

I don't remember who did it last.

You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for
them out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money
back.

Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wgaplin at bellsouth.net

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 24 16:10:56 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 18:10:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] shirts
In-Reply-To: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>

We did a run of the regular FOT shirts last year and had a difficult time
making the minimum order so another run already is not in the cards. That
being said there are some places on line that you can have as little as one
shirt printed up using your supplied design. Maybe I can look into something
like that when I have nothing to do if there is any interest.

Marty

 Also, are there tshirts available?

From rwestfall at ymail.com  Fri May 24 16:44:08 2013
From: rwestfall at ymail.com (Russell Westfall)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 15:44:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals. 100 produced
In-Reply-To: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1369435448.35931.YahooMailMobile@web161806.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Joe
I will take two decals, I will put a check in the mail to you tomorrow.
Thanks!
Russ Westfall

From fasttr4 at aol.com  Fri May 24 17:20:20 2013
From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:20:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals.  100 produced
In-Reply-To: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
References: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8D026EC648031D8-1D3C-191CD@webmail-d277.sysops.aol.com>

Save me 2 decals.  Check is in the mail.

Bruce Lapierre X-#46



-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 22, 2013 9:11 pm
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals. 100 produced


I ordered and received 100 FOT decals today.
$10 will get you two delivered to your address.
Checks preferred, but PayPal is convenient.
FOT
45 1st Street
esup, IA.  50648
PayPal.  N197tr4 at cs.com
Thanks
Sent from my iPad
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttr4 at aol.com

From bownes at seiri.com  Fri May 24 17:33:29 2013
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:33:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
	<CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
	<002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <89C60843-9006-48AF-A227-7A041FF6A813@seiri.com>

Next time there is a run of the Very Large decals, I would like a set of 2
please!


On May 24, 2013, at 18:04, "Warren Aplin" <wgaplin at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> I would like both a  couple of patches and a few stickers.  I am unable to
> make Road America, but would gladly preorder and send a check
>
> Warren Aplin
> Jupiter, FL
> 561-748-8187
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:38 PM
> To: Andy Packard
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
>
> They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
> again.
>
> The logo has become a sign of distinction.
>
> Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
> volunteering.
>
> Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.
>
> I don't remember who did it last.
>
> You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for
> them out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money
> back.
>
> Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.
>
> Joe A
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:
>
>> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
> interested in these or have they been done already?
>>
>> Andy Packard
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>>
>>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>>
>>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>>
>>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>>
>>> Joe A
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wgaplin at bellsouth.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From jaxonracing at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 17:33:53 2013
From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (Jaxon Racing)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:33:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] shirts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>
References: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A6479BB9-E533-4DCE-B16E-64F164F73343@yahoo.com>

We do shirt orders for hockey using transfers and once they are done you can
order just one or more if you like so there is no need for a minimum.



Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 6:10 PM, marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com> wrote:

> We did a run of the regular FOT shirts last year and had a difficult time
> making the minimum order so another run already is not in the cards. That
> being said there are some places on line that you can have as little as one
> shirt printed up using your supplied design. Maybe I can look into
something
> like that when I have nothing to do if there is any interest.
>
> Marty
>
> Also, are there tshirts available?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com

From chasgee at aol.com  Fri May 24 17:47:06 2013
From: chasgee at aol.com (Chuck Gee)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:47:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Paddock Info For Kastner Cup #2
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoG6PdpwFt8e7hvJ+9OarJ+vC5DQnFpyXiF5=aCOKfabg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYoG6PdpwFt8e7hvJ+9OarJ+vC5DQnFpyXiF5=aCOKfabg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8D026F021C3CD40-95C-142ED@webmail-d132.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Jason,

I sent my check for two spots today.  You should get it early next week.

Thanks,

Chuck Gee



-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 29, 2013 2:52 pm
Subject: [Fot] Paddock Info For Kastner Cup #2


This is the 2nd instalment of Paddock Info for the Kastner Cup.
ATTENTION ALL KASTNER CUP PARTICIPANTS:
Notes on status of Garage rentals:
Many of you have reserved garage spaces in the open air Lester Buildings.
his will be Triumph headquarters for various aspects of The Kastner Cup.
If you have reserved a space. THANK YOU!
t this point there are only a few garage spots left, call it fair warning!
If you have reserved a garage spot and HAVE SENT me a payment already...
HANK YOU for being early to the grid.
If you have reserved a garage spot and have NOT SENT payment yet...
econd call!
lease send $50.00 per spot payable to:
onderland Multivintage
731 Grand Blvd
rookfield IL 60513
(Notice to all garage renters>>> Do not be alarmed if you have not heard
rom me yet or gotten any official confirmation. Official confirmation in
egards to garage space has not yet been given. So, Again, If you paid
lready, thanks...look for a personal email in the coming days in regard
o your official confirmation.)
Notes on General Paddock Arrangement:
Negotiations and initial planning for the ALL TRIUMPH PADDOCK is going well.
t is a rare thing to have any special paddock arrangements made at Road
merica. Thanks to some dedicated FoTer's voices and persistent contact
ith the Race-Chairmen and RA officials, so far it looks like Triumph
ompetitors will be given five star treatment. To Be Clear.... WE are the
EATURE!
To facilitate accurate planning of open space in the ALL TRIUMPH PADDOCK I
ave asked ALL TRIUMPH COMPETITORS to send me the dimensions of
heir paddock space needs. (dimensions of rig, canopies, tent, RV)
f you have not contacted me with this info please do so now. Email
ason at multivintage.com  with the requested info.
Opinions and Feedback and important paddock concepts thus far:
) The Lester building / garages will work great for car prep/show for the
ntire weekend.
) The garages are not secure or private (keep that in mind)
) Your rig and trailer or RV etc. will NOT be right next to you garage
pot and may be a short walk from your spot. I will try to get you as close
s I can. but understand that your paddock spot (for your tow rig and
railer) will not be at an arms length from your garage spot. (please be
dvised and plan accordingly)
) Tech will happen in our Triumph Paddock area.
) RV hookup power is not technically available in our designated area.
) If you want power, rent a garage spot.(period)
) If you want power at you RV / rig / paddock spot plan on paying lots of
oney to get it or BRING a GENERATOR.
) I have been asked "Can I run a cord from my garage spot to my Rig and
ent or RV? Answer: don't count on it.
) If You must have RV power because of any personal/ medical issues...
ontact me immediately! Jason @ (312)208-5227
0) If you need anything special, now is the time to ask for it! Contact
ason @ (312)208-5227
1) If you know anyone that is not on the FOT list or that does not keep up
ith our emails; Please forward this info to them and urge them to contact
e with any concerns and the requested details.
2)  If I have forgotten anything or not mentioned something that you would
ike to see as part of the paddock experience for this event, I AM HERE FOR
OU to see what we can do! call Jason @ (312)208-5227 or email
ason at multivintage.com
3) This is going to be totally awesome. The 2013 Kastner Cup at Road
merica is shaping up to be the greatest Triumph Race in the history of
otorsport.
 Thanks!
ason Ostrowski
riendly Ghost Racing
laning Committee/Paddock Master
013 Kastner Cup at Road America
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 24 19:04:42 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:04:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
Message-ID: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>

I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the 
principles involved
are not marque specific.

mjb.



You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose 
carbs.
Fixed that, still having trouble.

So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a 
while for odds
and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker, 
smart kid.  I've
been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor 
disagreement
today.

So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm 
over mouth
of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm 
over the rear
carb, engine stumbles and dies.

I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri May 24 19:38:37 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 20:38:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <000b01ce58e8$953b1fe0$bfb15fa0$@com>

I think the rear carb is feeding all 4 cylinders and the front carb isn't
getting any gas and acting like a big vacuum leak.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:05 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?

I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the 
principles involved
are not marque specific.

mjb.



You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose 
carbs.
Fixed that, still having trouble.

So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a 
while for odds
and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker, 
smart kid.  I've
been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor 
disagreement
today.

So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm 
over mouth
of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm 
over the rear
carb, engine stumbles and dies.

I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May 25 07:40:36 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 08:40:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"
Message-ID: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>

Heard from Steve Hedke this week. You may remember him as entering his TR3 in
the Great Race a few years ago. I think he won his division once.

Great Race starts near St. Paul in June. Might be a fun place to be.

He will be doing the Great Race this year in a 1916 Hudson Indy Car.

Still a TR3 guy, I invited him to return to our list.

I hope he does.

From tlizzard at msn.com  Sat May 25 07:56:06 2013
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 09:56:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>

Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.

Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
  To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
  Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?


  I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
  principles involved
  are not marque specific.

  mjb.



  You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
  carbs.
  Fixed that, still having trouble.

  So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
  while for odds
  and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
  smart kid.  I've
  been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
  disagreement
  today.

  So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
  over mouth
  of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
  over the rear
  carb, engine stumbles and dies.

  I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May 25 09:58:14 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 10:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Regalia Update. Decals. Kastner Cup. 2013. Road America
Message-ID: <D02080DE-6FB1-45DA-BC43-ED64EBB8186E@cs.com>

More than half of the 100 decals are spoken for...way to go!

I am addressing envelopes again today. If you are sending a check, please give
me your address so I can get these out and done with.

Looks like Andy Packard is going to make an offering of patches. It's overdue
and he has a good source. Remember, if you don't have a driver's suit, you can
put on a jacket or hat.

The next time I am in Signs By Tomorrow, I check into pricing on the larger
FOT decals and report back.

Flags, badges, decals, patches all going to KCUP 2013.
Our own garage facilities, event shirts, event posters.
Marque awards by Snook's Dream Cars.
And custom name tags......

No featured marque will ever look as good as we are at ELVF

And there is more....we are going have custom made Tech Stickers.

Also, VSCDA has a traditional "Rally Board" decal. We made arrangements for
the FOT logo to appear on this very collectible driver premium. They will also
be available for sale.


Thanks to all who have supported this effort.

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat May 25 17:56:29 2013
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 19:56:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>

Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the base
is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If they
are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.

I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get any
throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly throttle
the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?) were
bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix at
the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.

Chris

On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:

> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>
> Terry Stetler
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>  To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>  Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>
>
>  I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>  principles involved
>  are not marque specific.
>
>  mjb.
>
>
>
>  You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>  carbs.
>  Fixed that, still having trouble.
>
>  So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>  while for odds
>  and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>  smart kid.  I've
>  been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>  disagreement
>  today.
>
>  So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>  over mouth
>  of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>  over the rear
>  carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>
>  I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>  _______________________________________________
>  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>
>  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat May 25 19:58:35 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 20:58:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>

No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run with
the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I imagine
those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.

Duncan
1952 Morgan Plus 4
Red #6

On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:

> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
base
> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If they
> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>
> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get
any
> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
throttle
> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?) were
> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
at
> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.
>
> Chris
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>
>> Terry Stetler
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>
>>
>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>> principles involved
>> are not marque specific.
>>
>> mjb.
>>
>>
>>
>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>> carbs.
>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>
>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>> while for odds
>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>> smart kid.  I've
>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>> disagreement
>> today.
>>
>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>> over mouth
>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>> over the rear
>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>
>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat May 25 20:25:57 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 22:25:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Old Box Making Machinery
Message-ID: <B935C8378AEC4D97963CC604061C46FE@hpd530>

Hi Gang, this is not Old British Car related, but it came from the SOB's. 
Sons of Britain, our local car club. Like the FOT, no dues, no officers, but 
a good bunch of folks who have old British cars. They meet for dinner once a 
month, go on drives, and generally have fun. And have a summer picnic at my 
farm. Also a car show in Mid-September at the park in Waterford PA.
This video is very interseting. And very cool.
Enjoy, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rinderlessh at roadrunner.com>
To: "Akard" <makard at act-inc.com>; "Addington" <ohioadds at thewavz.com>; 
"Acklin" <rodney.acklin at ge.com>; "Aubele" <gaubele at verizon.net>; "Auton" 
<autons2 at yahoo.com.au>; "Buto" <butot at bellsouth.net>; "Barefield" 
<mikebarefield at charter.net>; "Carroll" <mikeandlinda806 at gmail.com>; "Chew" 
<ralph.chew at yahoo.com>; "Colvin" <twogaitln at frontier.com>; "Darnell" 
<maggied1102 at yahoo.com>; "Delevan" <r_delevan at msn.com>; "Dillard" 
<clay.dillard at hotmail.com>; "Fechter" <nfechter at sbcglobal.net>; "Ford" 
<manley776 at yahoo.com>; "Frazier" <jpfrazier at embarqmail.com>; "Frew" 
<dfrew at mercyhurst.edu>; "Funk" <jfunk at wabtec.com>; "Gallagher" 
<aalice4 at verizon.net>; "Group" <fairviewgroups at juno.com>; "Haas" 
<emsh at juno.com>; "Hall" <joshua.hall at colorado.edu>; "Hall" 
<pappy.hall at juno.com>; "Hall" <dhall04 at comcast.net>; "Hall" 
<hallla2_2000 at yahoo.com>; "Hanning" <hanningr at gmail.com>; "Henderson" 
<suehardin at att.net>; "Jenkins" <rjenkins49 at comcast.net>; "Johnson" 
<gtjson at ptd.net>; "Kallenbach" <thelakers at toast.net>; "Jordan" 
<mirajcorp at aol.com>; "Kanzler" <dkanzler at hotmail.com>; "Karle" 
<jandkarle at msn.com>; "Karle" <jbkarle at yahoo.com>; "Klauss" 
<wklauss at atlanticbb.net>; "Kling" <paul.kling at morganplc.com>; "Konstanty" 
<walter.konstanty at ge.com>; "Krack" <krak8774 at aol.com>; "Lee" 
<rthomaslee at aol.com>; "Lipski" <jermar46375 at comcast.net>; "Lozowski" 
<gary.lozowski at morganplc.com>; "Majoc" <cmajoc at mercyhurst.edu>; "Muller" 
<robertemuller at charter.net>; "Nowicki" <henry_nowicki at windstream.net>; 
"Oberlander" <kaotwins at verizon.net>; "Parry" <jparry66 at att.net>; "Orton" 
<itsdottyo at aol.com>; "Payne" <linda_payne1 at verizon.net>; "Penna" 
<jlh5 at netzero.com>; "Povlick" <povlicks at truvista.net>; "Predmore" 
<dpredmore at epix.net>; "Quinn" <quinns9 at verizon.net>; "Quinn" 
<stquinn537 at comcast.net>; "Randolph" <allen.randolph at ge.com>; "Ranta" 
<l.ranta at comcast.net>; "Roberge" <roly.roberge at morganplc.com>; "Romanski" 
<j.e.romanski at gmail.com>; "Roth" <rcv at psu.edu>; "Russo" <ratsrusso at cox.net>; 
"Saunders" <rses32 at aol.com>; "Schuerman" <jeanschuer at gmail.com>; "Sholes" 
<dsholes at gpwlaw.com>; "Stewart" <stewartmw at aol.com>; "Straub" 
<jeeper312 at verizon.net>; "Straub" <francis.straub at gmail.com>; "Tabolt" 
<rtskier at verizon.net>; "Tallyen" <russ.tallyen at morganplc.com>; "Tessendorf" 
<tessenri at cox.net>; "Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>; "Vasko" 
<galena130 at yahoo.com>; "Welsbacher" <JMaudio729 at wmconnect.com>; "Wineland" 
<marywineland at zoominternet.net>; "Winnen" <jimwinnen at roadrunner.com>; 
"Yeaney" <peter.yeaney at gmail.com>; "Yeaney" <carl.f.yeaney at gmail.com>; 
<nick.watters at morganplc.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 8:41 PM
Subject: Old Box Making Machinery


> Hi,
>
> This came to me from Frank Russell, my first engineering manager when I 
> started out.
>
> Working with this kind of equipment was not for sissies!
>
> Rich Hall
>
>
>
> "This is the real deal as far as old machinery is concerned. You'll like 
> it. OSHA would have a fit.
>
> Frank"
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/v/_mKSKZau9qs#

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat May 25 21:48:55 2013
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 23:48:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
	<C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>

I did put oil in the pots but it still did the same thing.  He had the idle
set at 1200 so it wouldn't idle high. I finally set it at 1600 as a balance of
low idle and working.  It was a racing engine that wanted a 1800 idle to start
with.

Chris

On May 25, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
> think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run
with
> the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I
imagine
> those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.
>
> Duncan
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4
> Red #6
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:
>
>> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
> base
>> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If
they
>> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
>> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>>
>> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get
> any
>> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
> throttle
>> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?)
were
>> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
> at
>> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>>
>>> Terry Stetler
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>>
>>>
>>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>>> principles involved
>>> are not marque specific.
>>>
>>> mjb.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>>> carbs.
>>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>>
>>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>>> while for odds
>>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>>> smart kid.  I've
>>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>>> disagreement
>>> today.
>>>
>>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>>> over mouth
>>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>>> over the rear
>>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>>
>>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sun May 26 06:15:00 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 07:15:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
	<C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
	<DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6D70ADF0-7346-4440-8596-08E1031A5046@gmail.com>

I discovered another good reason for a high idle speed when my accelerator
cable broke -- I was able to get back to the pits a lot faster!

Duncan


On May 25, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:

> I did put oil in the pots but it still did the same thing.  He had the idle
set at 1200 so it wouldn't idle high. I finally set it at 1600 as a balance of
low idle and working.  It was a racing engine that wanted a 1800 idle to start
with.
>
> Chris
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
>> think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run
with
>> the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I
imagine
>> those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.
>>
>> Duncan
>> 1952 Morgan Plus 4
>> Red #6
>>
>> On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:
>>
>>> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
>> base
>>> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If
they
>>> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
>>> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>>>
>>> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't
get
>> any
>>> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
>> throttle
>>> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?)
were
>>> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
>> at
>>> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the
bouncing.
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>>>
>>>> Terry Stetler
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>>>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>>>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>>>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>>>> principles involved
>>>> are not marque specific.
>>>>
>>>> mjb.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>>>> carbs.
>>>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>>>
>>>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>>>> while for odds
>>>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>>>> smart kid.  I've
>>>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>>>> disagreement
>>>> today.
>>>>
>>>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>>>> over mouth
>>>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>>>> over the rear
>>>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>>>
>>>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>>>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sun May 26 21:17:13 2013
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 03:17:13 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Message-ID: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>

Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it on,
you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on the
trailer now compared to before?

Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder?   May be
worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with
clutch disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem
could be that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but
I installed a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch
installation - and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel
spin or clutch slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can
restrict the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch
release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push
the slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when
I start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta
work on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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____________________________________________________________
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Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Mon May 27 05:19:29 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 04:19:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <1369653569.22942.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web160904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

What size hose?  A size 3 or size 4?   

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 27 08:48:43 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 07:48:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>

Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed
from the firewall forward?

thanks for any response and sage advice.

From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon May 27 08:59:28 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 10:59:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A374D0.3080202@charter.net>

Yes,Yes

They are welded on.
Measure before you remove.
Remove the front fenders, get your center punch and drill ready, find 
the spot welds and proceed.
Assembly is the reverse of removal with a mig welder.

Your will also need to remove the inner front fenders.
I have new replacements if needed.

Glenn

On 5/27/2013 10:48 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
> Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
> they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed
> from the firewall forward?
>
> thanks for any response and sage advice.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net

From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 27 09:27:32 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:27:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001b01ce5aee$b5562100$20026300$@rr.com>

With a plasma cutter everything is removable, however those are factory
welded to the bulkhead. If you're replacing a damaged front clip use either
a saws-all or a plasma cutter and you can free that section easily. Using a
MiG welder will make short work of the repair.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 10:49 AM
To: TR list; Triumph; Friends
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6

Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are they
bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed from the
firewall forward?

thanks for any response and sage advice.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon May 27 10:21:13 2013
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:21:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
Message-ID: <13322.1369671673@mitchelplumbing.com>

	 BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
 Chuck, the front 'clip' is welded on at the firewall and it includes
the inner fenders and the headlight/hood support portion of the front
end.

	I did change one once and drilled out all the spot welds and welded a
whole new one on.

	Charly Mitchel
	On Mon 27/05/13  7:48 AM , "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley"
triosan at gmail.com sent:
 Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
 they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be
removed
 from the firewall forward?
 thanks for any response and sage advice.
 _______________________________________________
 http://www.fot-racing.com [2]
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [3]
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4]
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [5]
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ [6]


Links:
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.com
[3]
http://webmail.qwestoffice.net/parse.php?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2
Fdonate.html
[4]
http://webmail.qwestoffice.net/parse.php?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2
Farchive
[5]
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Fforums
[6]
http://webmail.qwestoffice.net/parse.php?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net
%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Ffot%2Fcharly%40mitchelplumbing.com

From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Mon May 27 11:59:52 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 12:59:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a set of factory alloys in good condition from a TR7/8
they are looking to offload?
Thanks!
Mike

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 27 12:52:12 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:52:12 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>

You guys doing really complicated stuff.
I use stock stuff and it is doing well.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Joe Boruch
Gesendet: Montag, 27. Mai 2013 05:17
An: lang at isis.mit.edu
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited

Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it on,
you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on
the trailer now compared to before?

Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder?   May
be
worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with clutch
disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem could be
that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but I installed
a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch installation -
and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel spin or clutch
slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can restrict
the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push the
slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when I
start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta work
on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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____________________________________________________________
Transformation of America?
Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 15:10:40 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:10:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
Message-ID: <39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>

Me too, Chris. Stock MC, slave,and braided hose. -4 I think. And a Magic 
clutch from TRF.
KISS.
Only time I had a problem was when a rebuilt slave cyl. failed on the grid. 
Got it running on the starter and did the practice session without the 
clutch.
To all Vets out there: thank you. Lots of flags in the cemetaries.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited


> You guys doing really complicated stuff.
> I use stock stuff and it is doing well.
>
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Joe Boruch
> Gesendet: Montag, 27. Mai 2013 05:17
> An: lang at isis.mit.edu
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
>
> Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it 
> on,
> you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on
> the trailer now compared to before?
>
> Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder? 
> May
> be
> worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
> Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
>
> Hi,
>
> I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
> definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
> stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with 
> clutch
> disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem could 
> be
> that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but I 
> installed
> a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch 
> installation -
> and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel spin or clutch
> slippage when I floor it.
>
> The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
> setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can 
> restrict
> the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch release?
>
> I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
> residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push 
> the
> slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.
>
> This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
> used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
> setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
> launches, max.
>
> BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when 
> I
> start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta work
> on that aspect of my driving, I guess.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Transformation of America?
> Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 27 15:54:14 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 23:54:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
	<39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
Message-ID: <000301ce5b24$bb87ea00$3297be00$@com>

I didn't like to do a bad critic. I just was astounded about the technical
things you implant in your cars.

At my car the idea counts to keep it stock like so that I can get parts to
repair in the paddock.
If you show up at the paddock with something custom made and nobody has a
spare you can go home - end of the weekend.

My car can race with almost all stock parts.

In one case we parted out a TR3 from a fan to get a cylinder head and a diff
for a fellow racer.
No chance with custom parts.

To tell you what I use:

Stock master
Stock slave
Stock link
GT6 clutch bearing
Tilton pressure plate
And 6 paddle clutch plate

So the only thing I have to bring is a pressure plate spare and a clutch
plate spare.
All other parts are available at the paddock.

Cheers
Chris

From kkjjk at aol.com  Mon May 27 16:43:13 2013
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 18:43:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys
In-Reply-To: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8D02942B4A78AA6-18E4-275FF@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com>

Hey, Mike- I do have a set, actually two sets!  I have no idea what they are
worth.  I would need to check on them as they are buried somewhere in my
garage.  I do know that one set is painted green and that they belong to a
good friend of mine.  The other set I took off a TR7 MANY years ago, but they
are factory 8 wheels ( I bought the entire car just for the wheels, and then
junked the car- big mistake).  I will try to look into it for you, although I
have a grad party and a lot of stuff coming up over the next 2-3 weeks.  How
much of a hurry are you in?  Thanks-- Jay



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jankowski <mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com>
To: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 27, 2013 2:05 pm
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys


Does anyone have a set of factory alloys in good condition from a TR7/8
they are looking to offload?
Thanks!
Mike
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 18:40:58 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:40:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
	<39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
	<000301ce5b24$bb87ea00$3297be00$@com>
Message-ID: <93329F51DCCC4DE8B5B7294927E16C51@hpd530>

Like I said Chris, KISS
(Keep it simple, son)
Cheers, Bill----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited


>I didn't like to do a bad critic. I just was astounded about the technical
> things you implant in your cars.
>
> At my car the idea counts to keep it stock like so that I can get parts to
> repair in the paddock.
> If you show up at the paddock with something custom made and nobody has a
> spare you can go home - end of the weekend.
>
> My car can race with almost all stock parts.
>
> In one case we parted out a TR3 from a fan to get a cylinder head and a 
> diff
> for a fellow racer.
> No chance with custom parts.
>
> To tell you what I use:
>
> Stock master
> Stock slave
> Stock link
> GT6 clutch bearing
> Tilton pressure plate
> And 6 paddle clutch plate
>
> So the only thing I have to bring is a pressure plate spare and a clutch
> plate spare.
> All other parts are available at the paddock.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 18:46:19 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:46:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Whitworth wrenches
Message-ID: <F57471DD6E3441CD81E77034784E4972@hpd530>

Hi All, someone inquired a while ago about my  Whitworth wrenches.
I finally found them, right where I left them. 'Cept I'd forgotten where I
left them!
Most are Blue Point, Snap-on's brand. A few King Dick. Some box, some open.
If any interest, let me know and I'll send you a list.
Thanks, Bill

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 27 22:38:02 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 21:38:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Need a front clip for my TR6
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNB7qAobCwZsNRVLLtm-GNik83YD+gnoRJ5RXmc6sO2XdA@mail.gmail.com>

Somew eekends ar really good [like two weeks ago when Iset my personal best
by half a second at PAcific Raceways].  some are pretty lousy, like when I
hit the front straight wall at Mission in Canada attempting a pass in the
rain.  Now a need a front clip [everything forward of the fr
irewall].  suspension and frame are ok.  See link below for damage pictures.

https://plus.google.com/photos/103241823961257430252/albums/5882875292021172593?authkey=CIXV_rCP84PJAQ

Chuck in Tacoma, WA

From wgaplin at bellsouth.net  Tue May 28 07:27:10 2013
From: wgaplin at bellsouth.net (Warren Aplin)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:27:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"
In-Reply-To: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>
References: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>
Message-ID: <001f01ce5ba7$0f4f62d0$2dee2870$@net>

That is on my bucket list.  Never thought about doing it in the TR,  That
might be fun.

Warren Aplin
Jupiter, FL
561-748-8187


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 9:41 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"

Heard from Steve Hedke this week. You may remember him as entering his TR3
in the Great Race a few years ago. I think he won his division once.

Great Race starts near St. Paul in June. Might be a fun place to be.

He will be doing the Great Race this year in a 1916 Hudson Indy Car.

Still a TR3 guy, I invited him to return to our list.

I hope he does.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 28 10:38:57 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:38:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 28 10:40:49 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:40:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305281230470.2628@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,


Regarding loading the car - I don't think that's an issue, although it 
might be. I have given thought to setting up a winch in the trailer.. I 
also need to consider this aspect of getting onto the lift in the garage. 
That's a really big "hill". Maybe I need a winch there too.

But, it could also be the driver riding the clutch - I'm not sure.

As regards to keeping things simple, I agree whole-heartedly. The switch 
in hydraulics came about as a result of a roll cage installation which 
included a change to the hydraulics for both the brakes and the clutch. My 
initial plan was to not touch any of that stuff, because it worked fine.

Lesson learned.

I'm also much more clear when I ask this fabricator to do anything to the 
car as he tends to go in with "all guns blazing".

I'm still trying to figure out how to get him to fix the front brace on 
the passenger side that is about 1/16" from the air horns on the Webers. 
But that's another can of worms.

;-)

To the question about what size fittings are in use, the current setup is 
all AN-3. I know that the stock stuff is AN-4. I'm ordering a new clutch 
M/C and some plumbing just for the heck of it. I may get another clutch 
disk and PP, just to have on hand. But to be honest, this is sort of 
frustrating in that I can't test any changes I make until I get to the 
track...

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Tue May 28 10:53:24 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 16:53:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202D7098@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Second!

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 11:39 AM
To: Friends
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 28 10:54:43 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:54:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305281253350.2628@isis.mit.edu>

SECOND

Any Barnes is good in my book (my grandmother was a Barnes).

The fact that the car is a fast TR6 makes the suggestion even better.

rml

On Tue, 28 May 2013, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:

> Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
> TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
> Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!
>
> Email: barnesville at telus.net.
>
> Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lang at isis.mit.edu

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 28 14:07:01 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 15:07:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
Message-ID: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.

From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Tue May 28 15:43:54 2013
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:43:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Thanks, Joe. The effort is appreciated.

Edward Dunn

West Coast Vintage Racing
2240 Encinitas Blvd., Suite D101
Encinitas CA 92024

760-492-3814
www.vintageracing.us


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 1:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue May 28 16:09:00 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 00:09:00 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>

A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc

Track started to dry.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be


Cheers
Chris

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 28 17:15:12 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:15:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
Message-ID: <E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>

Good, neat!  Do you guys ever get to run in the dry ?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc
>
> Track started to dry.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be
>
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From rjl at gt-classics.com  Tue May 28 20:13:35 2013
From: rjl at gt-classics.com (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 22:13:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <51A5644F.2040208@gt-classics.com>

Got mine today - they look great.  Thanks Joe.

John

On 5/28/2013 5:43 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:
> Thanks, Joe. The effort is appreciated.
>
> Edward Dunn
>
> West Coast Vintage Racing
> 2240 Encinitas Blvd., Suite D101
> Encinitas CA 92024
>
> 760-492-3814
> www.vintageracing.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
>
> I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
> past 70 of 100 being delivered.
>
> I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
> many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.
>
> We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.
>
> Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe A.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com
>
>
>
>
>    

-- 
Thanks,
R. John Lye

rjl6n at cstone.net

From fasttr4 at aol.com  Tue May 28 20:45:35 2013
From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 22:45:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Decals
Message-ID: <8D02A2DBAD7D790-EB4-26AE3@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks for the effort Joe.  Haven't got mine yet but from all the positive
comments - looking forward to it

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 28 21:21:16 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:21:16 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>

Well that nomination went over well.

mjb.



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Unsubscribe
Date: 	Tue, 28 May 2013 20:04:11 -0700
From: 	Stephanie Barnes <stephaniegbarnes at gmail.com>
To: 	fot-owner at autox.team.net <fot-owner at autox.team.net>



Please unsubscribe me from this mailing list. Thank you.

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 28 21:37:37 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:37:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
	<51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>
	<881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>

Stephanie Barnes wrote:
> Sorry?? Nomination?!? I'm drawing a complete blank, I'm afraid. I just started receiving a flurry of emails about some decal. I'm not in the decal business, so I assume I got these ten or so emails in error. I tried the 'help' suggestion, but no explanation was forthcoming, therefore I requested to be removed from the list.
>
> I have no knowledge of "fot," nor its products. I apologise for the misunderstanding.
>
> S G Barnes
>
>

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/fot/2013-05/msg00241.html

Apparently the 'Friends of Triumph" - an amazing collection of Triumph 
racers
and enthusiasts, was not properly explained to you.  I'll suggest you 
stick around
for a bit, see if you and your TR6 really want to part ways with us.

mjb.

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May 29 00:41:24 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:41:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>

We have rain and dry races.
I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: John Hasty [mailto:jhhasty at gdhs.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 29. Mai 2013 01:15
An: MadMarx
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Video Zandvoort

Good, neat!  Do you guys ever get to run in the dry ?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc
>
> Track started to dry.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be
>
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May 29 07:03:50 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:03:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
	<51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>
	<881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
	<51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5BB371DA-3587-4BCF-9B16-AD4D8A61F8D3@cs.com>

Stephanie,

Rumor has it that you and your TR6 are amazing.

This is a semi-exclusive non-organization.

We are also partial to Canadians.

We have no products.

The decals discussed is the logo we apply proudly to our Triumphs and tool
boxes.

Chuck will be with you shortly to explain what he has done by nominating you.

When you run next in the U.S. you will want the FOT logo on your car.

If you decide to stay, welcome aboard.

Joe Alexander

Sent from my iPad

On May 28, 2013, at 10:37 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Stephanie Barnes wrote:
>> Sorry?? Nomination?!? I'm drawing a complete blank, I'm afraid. I just
started receiving a flurry of emails about some decal. I'm not in the decal
business, so I assume I got these ten or so emails in error. I tried the
'help' suggestion, but no explanation was forthcoming, therefore I requested
to be removed from the list.
>>
>> I have no knowledge of "fot," nor its products. I apologise for the
misunderstanding.
>>
>> S G Barnes
>>
>>
>
> http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/fot/2013-05/msg00241.html
>
> Apparently the 'Friends of Triumph" - an amazing collection of Triumph
racers
> and enthusiasts, was not properly explained to you.  I'll suggest you stick
around
> for a bit, see if you and your TR6 really want to part ways with us.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed May 29 07:20:26 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 09:20:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:

> We have rain and dry races.
> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.

That would make you a "real driver".

:-)

> Cheers
> Chris

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Wed May 29 09:42:51 2013
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:42:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Joe, what is the size of this decal?  Thanks, Jim
________________________________
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, May 28, 2013 1:09:16 PM
Subject: [Fot] FOT
Decals

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving
quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make
some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and
I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to
do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole
thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sherryjimmy6116 at att.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May 29 10:52:55 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:52:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.31.1369846622.1861.fot@autox.team.net>

I received mine - they look to be about 3" high x 4" wide.  They are 
nicely trimmed too.

Tony Drews

At 10:42 AM 5/29/2013, sherry robyn wrote:
>Joe, what is the size of this decal?  Thanks, Jim
>________________________________
>From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
>To:
>fot at autox.team.net
>Sent: Tue, May 28, 2013 1:09:16 PM
>Subject: [Fot] FOT
>Decals
>
>I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving
>quickly
>past 70 of 100 being delivered.
>
>I did a spread sheet but may make
>some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
>many or none at all, let me know and
>I will deal with it.
>
>We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to
>do this right away.
>
>Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole
>thing a lot of fun.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe A.
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive:
>http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sherryjimmy6116 at att.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed May 29 12:01:26 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:01:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>

I've had enough sliding around in the dry, thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 9:20 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:
> 
>> We have rain and dry races.
>> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.
> 
> That would make you a "real driver".
> 
> :-)
> 
>> Cheers
>> Chris
> 
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May 29 12:04:36 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:04:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
	<141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001401ce5c96$fbe45ca0$f3ad15e0$@com>

Too low tire pressure ;-)

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: John Hasty [mailto:jhhasty at gdhs.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 29. Mai 2013 20:01
An: Robert M. Lang
Cc: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Video Zandvoort

I've had enough sliding around in the dry, thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 9:20 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:
>
>> We have rain and dry races.
>> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.
>
> That would make you a "real driver".
>
> :-)
>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>
> regards,
> rml
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca  Tue May 28 13:27:04 2013
From: peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca (peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:27:04 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C3E1F9F018D9614AAD615D1B96DB0B1E1F2519@DE35S004EXC06.wp.corpintra.net>

Second for one more Canadian


----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley [mailto:triosan at gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 06:38 PM W. Europe Standard Time
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bulkowskip at mercedes-benz.ca



If you are not the addressee, please inform us immediately that you have
received this e-mail by mistake, and delete it. We thank you for your
support.

From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed May 29 15:35:48 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 17:35:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Transponder group buy
Message-ID: <001101ce5cb4$7bef1da0$73cd58e0$@rr.com>

There are some folks in VRG that are interested in a show of hands for
anyone wanting to buy a transponder in a group buy to save a bit on the
cost.

If anyone is interested let me know and I will forward your contact info.

 

Russ Moore

Spitfire #49

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Wed May 29 19:31:11 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 21:31:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
Message-ID: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>

Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before they
wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not a
problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
undersized.
Any insight? Ted?
Thanks, Bill
PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look at
you funny!

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:06:21 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:06:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <0766062F-0EF2-4E20-8CF8-A701B8436061@comcast.net>

I too had this problem with fitting rear shoes from Moss.  What I found is
that most replacement shoes are oversized to for turned drums.  The shoe
linings should be no thicker than 3/16".
Moss had just received a new shipment and they were concerned enough to solve
the problem as quickly as they could.  I learned these details of this from my
local British master technician and vintage Morgan racer extraordinaire, Greg
S.

Dave H.

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
they
> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not
a
> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
> undersized.
> Any insight? Ted?
> Thanks, Bill
> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look
at
> you funny!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:08:34 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:08:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <C5A6E0DA-CC9D-41CC-AF49-CF3826DBF35F@comcast.net>

Oh, and Greg happened to have a set of 3/16" thick shoes in stock that went
right on.

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
they
> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not
a
> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
> undersized.
> Any insight? Ted?
> Thanks, Bill
> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look
at
> you funny!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net

From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed May 29 20:44:32 2013
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:44:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] brake question
References: <E545F325-1106-4FF8-8EE0-18B467C4E391@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>

> Hi Bill,
> Common issue for me too. Most of the fined brake drums out there  
> are 240Z with a bit of machining. I just get the shoes ground to  
> fit at my last remaining ol' time brake shop. Though I haven't  
> tried, I suspect that a 240Z shoe would go right on with no fit  
> problems - but I like Ted's shoes [ can't remember the name or  
> compound].
> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
> TR4 #314
> Albuquerque New Mexico
> On May 29, 2013, at 7:31 PM, Bill Tobin wrote:
>
>> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of  
>> my TR6.
>> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
>> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned  
>> aluminum drums.
>> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on.  
>> Before they
>> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a  
>> bit (not a
>> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
>> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they  
>> both said
>> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same  
>> problem.
>> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
>> undersized.
>> Any insight? Ted?
>> Thanks, Bill
>> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes,  
>> they look at
>> you funny!
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> lunkercars at earthlink.net

From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Thu May 30 06:10:43 2013
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:10:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>
References: <E545F325-1106-4FF8-8EE0-18B467C4E391@earthlink.net>
	<E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MApWYFo6GjC7sVCT4MRP30DhP0taMeuZ4tfb3XJWYdDg@mail.gmail.com>

I run Ted's shoes also and like them , I also had a small fit problem where
I had to cut the edge of the pad to keep from scrubbing, five min. and it
fitted fine.


On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 10:44 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer <
Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Hi Bill,
>> Common issue for me too. Most of the fined brake drums out there are 240Z
>> with a bit of machining. I just get the shoes ground to fit at my last
>> remaining ol' time brake shop. Though I haven't tried, I suspect that a
>> 240Z shoe would go right on with no fit problems - but I like Ted's shoes [
>> can't remember the name or compound].
>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>> TR4 #314
>> Albuquerque New Mexico
>>
>> On May 29, 2013, at 7:31 PM, Bill Tobin wrote:
>>
>>  Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
>>> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
>>> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum
>>> drums.
>>> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
>>> they
>>> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit
>>> (not a
>>> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
>>> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both
>>> said
>>> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
>>> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
>>> undersized.
>>> Any insight? Ted?
>>> Thanks, Bill
>>> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they
>>> look at
>>> you funny!
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>> options/fot/lunkercars@**earthlink.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net>
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com>
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer

From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu May 30 07:43:11 2013
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 09:43:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <69CC6CE1-DE9A-4E2B-A69A-A7E19557D952@yahoo.com>

>From what I remember the 240z drums were a smaller radius (metric dimension)
than the TR6 drums, so you will have to have the shoes trimmed to the smaller
240 z radius. A PIA so that's why I changed over to discs 20 years ago.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu May 30 09:44:44 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:44:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [6pack] Need a front clip for my TR6
In-Reply-To: <8D02A2DE515D4E9-2228-C4F5@webmail-d234.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAMc4sNB7qAobCwZsNRVLLtm-GNik83YD+gnoRJ5RXmc6sO2XdA@mail.gmail.com>
	<8D02A2DE515D4E9-2228-C4F5@webmail-d234.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNC4KSxHuC_AHP6GE3AJWfo+W_B5f0D_QC_68upAo8T72w@mail.gmail.com>

I got a clip from a local British car dealer -- expensive but whole and in
good shape.  Now for some cutting, bending, welding and painting to get it
all back in shape.

Chuck

On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Mgruber921 <mgruber921 at aol.com> wrote:

> Chuck
> Have very good front clip, every thing you need but I am in ALA. You
> coming this way anytime soon.
>
> Marv
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan at gmail.com>
> To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>; Triumph <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, May 27, 2013 11:45 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Need a front clip for my TR6
>
>  Somew eekends ar really good [like two weeks ago when Iset my personal best
> by half a second at PAcific Raceways].  some are pretty lousy, like when I
> hit the front straight wall at Mission in Canada attempting a pass in the
> rain.  Now a need a front clip [everything forward of the fr
> irewall].  suspension and frame are ok.  See link below for damage pictures.
> https://plus.google.com/photos/103241823961257430252/albums/5882875292021172593?authkey=CIXV_rCP84PJAQ
>
>
> Chuck in Tacoma, WA
>
> ________________________________________
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mgruber921 at aol.com

From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Thu May 30 10:27:05 2013
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (sgroh1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Needed:  Mk 3 Spitfire Bonnet!!!!
Message-ID: <1288811363.2650367.1369931225436.JavaMail.root@sz0053a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

FOT, I am in need of a restorable Spitfire Mk3 bonnet - mine was damaged
beyond repair at the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point.B  Any leads greatly
appreciated!!!



Sincerely,



Steve Groh, #393 Spitfire

410-322-9047

sgroh1 at comcast.net

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 30 12:36:12 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:36:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
Message-ID: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>

TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
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dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
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and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
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is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
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addressed herein.

From ponobill at gmail.com  Thu May 30 12:39:40 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 11:39:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>

Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the handling. I
tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's addition
works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.




On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu May 30 12:53:50 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:53:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>

Almost everyone who has run a rear sway bar has removed it.

Years ago it was discussed with a TR3 racer at RA. He disconnected sway bar
and immediately  2 seconds faster than he had ever run before.

They may work well on the the street, but it seems that at some point in hard
racing, it breaks the rear end loose. Some one else likely can explain this
better.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2013, at 1:36 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Thu May 30 13:03:18 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 15:03:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ce5d68$58fab390$0af01ab0$@rr.com>

My good friend and racing partner years ago tried one despite my cautioning
him. Did maybe a lap of Summit Point with it on and pulled in to take it off
immediately. Seems it kept pushing him into the dirt. That was on a
Spitfire, maybe TR3 is different but I would be surprised. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 2:54 PM
To: john hasty
Cc: <Fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars

Almost everyone who has run a rear sway bar has removed it.

Years ago it was discussed with a TR3 racer at RA. He disconnected sway bar
and immediately  2 seconds faster than he had ever run before.

They may work well on the the street, but it seems that at some point in
hard racing, it breaks the rear end loose. Some one else likely can explain
this better.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2013, at 1:36 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If 
> so, how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any 
> attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK
PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that 
> any dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If 
> you have received this communication in error, please erase all copies 
> of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS 
> regulations regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly 
> stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any 
> attachments) is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be 
> used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) 
> promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any transaction 
> or matter addressed herein.
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From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 30 13:04:39 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:04:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>

It is hard to make a sway bar recommendation without
knowing the rest of the front and rear suspension
details.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bill Babcock
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:39 PM
To: john hasty
Cc: Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars

Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the handling. 
I
tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's addition
works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe 
Tony
will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.




On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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_______________________________________________
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6369 - Release Date: 05/30/13 

From rjl6n at cstone.net  Thu May 30 13:55:05 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 15:55:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
	<AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <5d29b2cb36abc87d64da3d43e79b77c0.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

Exactly.  Depending on what you want the car to do,
and what else you have done, a rear sway bar can
help you or can hurt.  It is all about the balance.
If you run no front sway bar, or a small one, a
rear sway bar on a TR-3 is probably too much.  If
you run a heavy front sway bar, you might need a
rear sway bar to balance the handling out.  You
need to look at the whole package, not just one end
at a time.

For example, my solid axle TR-4 used very heavy front
and rear sway bars, and I think that anyone who drove
it would say that it handled pretty well - for autocross,
where a loose rear end (ie, a car that oversteers
slightly)can be an asset.  Along with the sway bars,
though, that car also had changes to the front camber,
stiff shocks and a very aggressive alignment (toe out).

I hope that helps,
John

On Thu, May 30, 2013 3:04 pm, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
> It is hard to make a sway bar recommendation without
> knowing the rest of the front and rear suspension
> details.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:39 PM
> To: john hasty
> Cc: Fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars
>
> Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
> longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the
> handling.
> I
> tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's
> addition
> works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe
> Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.
>
>
>
>
> On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If
>> so,
>> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>>
>> John H. Hasty
>> Attorney At Law
>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>> 719 East Boulevard
>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>> www.gdhs.com
>>
>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any
>> attachments)
> is
>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
>> that
>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK
>> PRODUCT.
>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
> message
>> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>>
>> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS
>> regulations
>> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
> otherwise,
>> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any
>> attachments)
>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes
>> of
>> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii)
>> promoting,
>> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
>> addressed herein.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6369 - Release Date: 05/30/13
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
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>
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 14:05:35 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:05:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <20130530200535.LH8K7.29295.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.

Ditto.

FWIW, I ran the ADDCO bars (3/4" front, 5/8" rear) for many years on my street TR3A.  On the street, I liked the setup, although I did install harder bushings to get more action from the front bar, and left the links pretty loose at the rear (for less action).  My next step was going to be a stiffer bar in the front (probably a 3/4" bar with the extra bends to attach nearer the uprights instead of in the middle of the A-arm like the ADDCO kit).

But on the track, the rear bar was definitely too much.  I didn't get a good before & after because I changed some other things at the same time; but I did pick up about a second at the VTR 2000 autocross with the rear bar disconnected.  I also reconnected it for the drive home and left it that way.  On the street, maintaining control during an emergency maneuver is more important to me, than being able to put down power during a hard turn.  On the track, it's just the opposite.

If/when I install a rear bar again, it will be with the spring-loaded links that allow for fine adjustment of roll stiffness.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 14:24:02 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:24:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
Message-ID: <20130530202402.865B0.29377.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.

Ditto.

FWIW, I ran the ADDCO bars (3/4" front, 5/8" rear) for many years on my street TR3A.  On the street, I liked the setup, although I did install harder bushings to get more action from the front bar, and left the links pretty loose at the rear (for less action).  My next step was going to be a stiffer bar in the front (probably a 3/4" bar with the extra bends to attach nearer the uprights instead of in the middle of the A-arm like the ADDCO kit).

But on the track, the rear bar was definitely too much.  I didn't get a good before & after because I changed some other things at the same time; but I did pick up about a second at the VTR 2000 autocross with the rear bar disconnected.  I also reconnected it for the drive home and left it that way.  On the street, maintaining control during an emergency maneuver is more important to me, than being able to put down power during a hard turn.  On the track, it's just the opposite.

If/when I install a rear bar again, it will be with the spring-loaded links that allow for fine adjustment of roll stiffness.

Randall

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 30 14:52:34 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:52:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
Message-ID: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>

Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral only "
plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too much
lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main objective
is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to control
under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with as of
yet.

From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 30 15:35:06 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:35:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
References: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <48335592C8F24D4C8AC7C8DDEAF43B10@rileyPC>

If you only stiffen the back, you may easily get too much oversteer.
Maybe some stiffer front springs would be a good partner for
the rear bar since you would like less body roll.
   I prefer to not add roll stiffness at the front with
a bar.  If don't like a beam axle at the front.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: John Hasty
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:52 PM
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar

Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral only 
"
plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too much
lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main objective
is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to control
under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with as 
of
yet.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Thu May 30 15:39:57 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 07:39:57 +1000
Subject: [Fot] brake question
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b2qgjrdP89SROxD8S5cyKxu_zubEaNcvBNJJmK31XCo=w@mail.gmail.com>

the 240Z finned drum is 228mm (8.97") stock. the max suggested is
9.055" and I've successfully used them larger than this with thicker
linings

this is 0.030" smaller than a TR which is 9.00" stock

the way i do this, is to machine the Z drums to a sensible size, then
get the shoes relined and radius ground to match the drum. no hassles
at all. find a "old school" brake shop with a shoe grinder

Terry


Road and Track
66 Pine Mountain Road
North Ipswich, 4305
Queensland, AUSTRALIA
ph 07-32018866
fax 07-32017079
www.roadandtrack.net.au
http://www.facebook.com/RoadAndTrack1

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu May 30 15:44:22 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 23:44:22 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <000001ce5d7e$db2153e0$9163fba0$@com>

I'm a friend of rear sway bars.
I use a 11/16" one.
But fitting one depends on the whole setup.
I have a very soft springs much camber and set the car to a gentle
understeer.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von john hasty
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 30. Mai 2013 20:36
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Sway Bars

TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
_______________________________________________
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May 31 06:07:13 2013
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 08:07:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brakes & sway bars
Message-ID: <51A89271.3010005@bright.net>

Thanks for the positive comments on our Kevlar shoes. For those 
unfamiliar with the prduct, we reline brake shoes with Kevlar. This is a 
drum "friendly" product, fairly high coefficiednt of friction (.45 - 
.47) and does not need to be warmed up. So, you have brakes the first 
time you hit the pedal and are consistent from then on . Since these are 
relined shoes, we can pretty well do anything. Shoes for our cars are 
$65/set of 4.  For race applications we bond and rivet.  Larger shoes, 
such as American cars, can be done but at a higher price.  Bad news is 
there is going to be a price increase to effective June 1.  If you order 
soon and specify FOT price, wqe will honor the $65.  Offer good through 
June 15.

Sway bars are used to "tune" a suspension.  If everything else is not 
done first, frame straight to springs to bushings, throwing a sway bar 
at the car does not fix anything, only acts as a bandage. Our website, 
www.tsimportedautomotive.com. has a section on waybar rates and handling 
"what if's". Click Product Information" and take a look.  Some of the 
rear bars use a really quesionalbe mounting method.  It involves 
drilling holes in lower frame rail and using a rectangular "U" bolt to 
retain the bar mount. A lot to ask from a frame that is 40+ years old. 
We redesigned a rear mount that does not require frame to be drilled and 
allows fore/aft movement to change bar rate. Yes, we do make bars.
Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Fri May 31 15:39:19 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:39:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] free Mk4/5 Spitfire tub in Austin, TX
Message-ID: <401D09FA-D180-40DB-B623-9C18866F719F@gmail.com>

This circulated in our local Triumph Club. The photo I saw suggested the car
had been pieced together under the seats.  I can email the photo off-group if
someone is interested.  I have nothing to do with this car; just passing along
the info.

Duncan

>>Howdy Steve: I parted out this little spitfire because itturned out that the
front and back halves of the tub where from two different cars.  I don't know
if anyone in the club needs some replacement metal for a MKIV - MKV, if they
do they can call me up and come pick it up, otherwise I am going to scrap it
in the next few days.  (Yes it is free)

Art Schoenig

artschoenigco at gmail.com

From stutzmans at comcast.net  Fri May 31 20:15:47 2013
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 22:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
References: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <EC78713DFDBF455EA33EEF7CD3A0DB15@ComputerPC>

A bar on the rear of a TR3 usually causes the inside rear tire to lift on 
tight turns.
If you have a stock diff or a Quaife you may well spin.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 4:52 PM
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar


> Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral 
> only "
> plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too 
> much
> lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
> tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main 
> objective
> is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to 
> control
> under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with 
> as of
> yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net

From joeg at neb.rr.com  Wed May  1 20:06:00 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 21:06:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] LeMans/Sebring Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>

Bill,

The best photos I can find to reference are on the Spitfire & GT6 Magazine
website at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/racers.html

Scroll down to the entry for "The real! ABU 4B factory LeMans" and one photo
shows the graphic you are specifically asking about.  The image isn't the
best, and the lettering is dark enough that I had not noticed it before.

I wonder if the folks at Jigsaw Racing in the UK might have some photos they
would share with you.  There web site has some good information -
http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/7bintro.htm

Best of luck with the effort!

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

------------------------Original Message-------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 17:48:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William T newman " <mnewman at embarqmail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
Message-ID:
	<1604883989.2847178.1367358522645.JavaMail.root at embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Amici:
I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph Spitfire
Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car was purchased
from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has owned the car twice and
his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the Works drivers during the era. I
will be racing SCCA Vintage using the #65, Bolton's number. I plan on
finding more history on the car and may need the help of the listers in the
future. Currently, I am in need of some pictutes of the original Works
Spitfires that show the graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I
need enough clarity in order to determine the proper font and scaling to get
this graphic reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The roof
is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality of the
welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire


From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Thu May  2 07:51:26 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 08:51:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] LeMans/Sebring Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
	<000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVv1a0j6xqVQT0=EJXUUwHJY+rEaDDdfZxQ4rJmMs8HcqA@mail.gmail.com>

There is a decent pic in the small red hardcover book about Triumph
Spitfire and GT6 that is by Robson if I recall correctly.
Mike


On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 9:06 PM, Joe Guinan <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> The best photos I can find to reference are on the Spitfire & GT6 Magazine
> website at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/racers.html
>
> Scroll down to the entry for "The real! ABU 4B factory LeMans" and one
> photo
> shows the graphic you are specifically asking about.  The image isn't the
> best, and the lettering is dark enough that I had not noticed it before.
>
> I wonder if the folks at Jigsaw Racing in the UK might have some photos
> they
> would share with you.  There web site has some good information -
> http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/7bintro.htm
>
> Best of luck with the effort!
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
>
> ------------------------Original Message-------------------------
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 17:48:42 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "William T newman " <mnewman at embarqmail.com>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
> Message-ID:
>         <1604883989.2847178.1367358522645.JavaMail.root at embarqmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Amici:
> I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph Spitfire
> Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car was purchased
> from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has owned the car twice
> and
> his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the Works drivers during the era. I
> will be racing SCCA Vintage using the #65, Bolton's number. I plan on
> finding more history on the car and may need the help of the listers in the
> future. Currently, I am in need of some pictutes of the original Works
> Spitfires that show the graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I
> need enough clarity in order to determine the proper font and scaling to
> get
> this graphic reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
> By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The roof
> is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality of the
> welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
> Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May  2 12:54:57 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:54:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Thu May  2 13:12:11 2013
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:12:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2013 Mitty pics
Message-ID: <OFA0001103.9D044FC6-ON85257B5F.0067C26D-85257B5F.00697CC8@us.ibm.com>

Some pictures from Sports Car Digest from the Mitty last weekend. There are
five pages of pictures, Triumphs are not the featured marque but you do
look good.

http://www.sportscardigest.com/speedfest-classic-motorsports-mitty-2013-report-and-photos/

Mike Harmuth


From jason at multivintage.com  Thu May  2 13:44:02 2013
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:44:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <mailman.237.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm not going to make these 1st couple races. Perhaps memorial day at BHF. But more likely fathers day BHF. 
I'll be at RA May 17- 19, but unless a miracle sponsorship deal comes through... I won't be driving.
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost racing
------Original Message------
From: Barr, Scott
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Sent: May 2, 2013 1:54 PM

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com



Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


From jkhagen at charter.net  Thu May  2 15:20:20 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 17:20:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <5c5bc6dd.619549.13e671e03b9.Webtop.48@charter.net>

John Hagen pulled in today.  Weather maybe ok??  55 and sunny now.  Got 
the TVR with this trip [MG Powered] sorry --but it does have Spit front 
and TR3-4 rear hubs/drums--thats gotta count for something.   John


On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 1:54 PM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's 
> race?
>
> Scott B.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu May  2 15:26:28 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 16:26:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce477b$b76c7150$264553f0$@com>

Ryan and I will be there. We leave in the morning.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barr, Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 1:55 PM
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From igofaster at att.net  Thu May  2 16:40:40 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:40:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
Message-ID: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
group...
APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
'maintaining control' ...  


Bobby Whitehead

http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May  2 17:36:13 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:36:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
In-Reply-To: <20130502195919.39BF142B84@autox.team.net>
References: <20130502195919.39BF142B84@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D84EAE92-2BDE-4300-BF65-3374829C0D10@gdhs.com>

Anyone going to the Glen on June 7 etc?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 3:44 PM, jason at multivintage.com wrote:

> This message cannot be displayed because of the way it is formatted. Ask the
sender to send it again using a different format or email program. text/plain


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May  2 18:01:59 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:01:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>

Congrats Bobby, I hope you still have all your fenders. GT2 is a great class.
I always thought four off meant off the ground. Now I gotta figure out that
black flag thingie.
So, how did you do?
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the
> group...
> APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been
> trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about
> 'maintaining control' ...
>
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From dforeman at fooddude.com  Thu May  2 19:27:52 2013
From: dforeman at fooddude.com (dforeman at fooddude.com)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 01:27:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1407508355-1367544505-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-280150198-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>

Bobby, I just returned from 3 day ssca school at msr houston.  During the school u had to drive thru, otherwise it is a suggestion.  That school is a blast, by the way, with the spit broken (but ready for ec) is drove the daily 05 mustang gt straight stock.  Replaced brake pads at end of day 2.  Over 300 track miles at this school.  In the school, there were 3 brand new purpose built camaros, gt2?  They (and I in the spit) will be at tws memorial weekend for the double-i think robert too.  Have idle inn rented for that too if u need...
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:40:40 
To: FoT Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing

My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
group...
APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
'maintaining control' ...  


Bobby Whitehead

http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dforeman at fooddude.com


From rikrock at live.com  Fri May  3 09:17:24 2013
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 11:17:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>

Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the hill.
To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't link
to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
definitely worth seeing.

Rich Rock


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Fri May  3 09:37:22 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 15:37:22 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Impressive!

I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle off of
the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate excavated a
large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was helicoptering down track
toward the back gate.  I was just glad I didn't get upside down.  I hate
having to repaint the top of the roll bar.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Rich Rock
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)

Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
hill.
To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't link
to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
definitely worth seeing.

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Fri May  3 10:29:20 2013
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 11:29:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>

Upside down, kinda like what happened to Mark Craig at Savannah! He had video
posted somewhere.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


On May 3, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:

> Impressive!
>
> I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle off
of
> the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate excavated a
> large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was helicoptering down track
> toward the back gate.  I was just glad I didn't get upside down.  I hate
> having to repaint the top of the roll bar.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Rich Rock
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
>
> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
> hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
> pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't
link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
> definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
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From triosan at gmail.com  Fri May  3 11:13:32 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 10:13:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNCOE=POjJQWcoab3nNDbtcPbLQu1Ot4R6_o6oVjOEoREQ@mail.gmail.com>

Definitely a very cool picture!  Sure a good test of all of Mr. Good's
suspension products -- as I presume he landed well!


On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 8:17 AM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
> hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu
> select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
> pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't
> link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
> definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May  3 11:25:30 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 13:25:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net><BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl><82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
	<8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEB3AAC7AB84B1282F16698222FD592@gdhs.local>

Wow!  I saw Mark's "tumble"  I think I counted 5 rolls... 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
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-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Munson
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 12:29 PM
To: Barr, Scott
Cc: FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)

Upside down, kinda like what happened to Mark Craig at Savannah! He had
video posted somewhere.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


On May 3, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:

> Impressive!
>
> I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle 
> off
of
> the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate 
> excavated a large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was 
> helicoptering down track toward the back gate.  I was just glad I 
> didn't get upside down.  I hate having to repaint the top of the roll bar.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
Behalf
> Of Rich Rock
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
>
> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest 
> the hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu
select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 
> 101-120.. The pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for 
> some reason I can't
link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good 
> shot, definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From jeffreykelley at charter.net  Fri May  3 11:27:33 2013
From: jeffreykelley at charter.net (Jeff Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 13:27:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
Message-ID: <4aece031.620eba.13e6b6f42a4.Webtop.48@charter.net>

Below is a link to video taken at 1965 24 hrs of LeMans. The pictures 
are a bit grainy but I thinkl you can gather some useful information.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpepDRqcFCo

Jeff Kelley


On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 5:48 PM, William T newman  wrote:

> Amici:
> I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph 
> Spitfire Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car 
> was purchased from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has 
> owned the car twice and his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the 
> Works drivers during the era. I will be racing SCCA Vintage using the 
> #65, Bolton's number. I plan on finding more history on the car and 
> may need the help of the listers in the future. Currently, I am in 
> need of some pictutes of the original Works Spitfires that show the 
> graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I need enough clarity 
> in order to determine the proper font and scaling to get this graphic 
> reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
> By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The 
> roof is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality 
> of the welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
> Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  3 11:43:00 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 12:43:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
Message-ID: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

A M I C I
Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
I am looking for clearance specs.
Thanks
D


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri May  3 16:03:09 2013
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 18:03:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>

I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an 
engine with them right now.

Bob

On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> A M I C I
> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
> I am looking for clearance specs.
> Thanks
> D
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri May  3 17:36:27 2013
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 19:36:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>

I use them in a Spitfire and went with Venolia's recommendation. Been
running them for the past 6 years. No problem handling 8K+

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Davis
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 6:03 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Venolia pistons

I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an engine
with them right now.

Bob

On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> A M I C I
> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
> I am looking for clearance specs.
> Thanks
> D
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May  3 18:02:06 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:02:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com> <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AB21CCC2-C854-41CD-8230-A86D7CBD9F80@gdhs.com>

J&E = 3.5.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 3, 2013, at 7:36 PM, "Spitfire Racing" <spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> I use them in a Spitfire and went with Venolia's recommendation. Been
> running them for the past 6 years. No problem handling 8K+
>
> Russ Moore
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Davis
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 6:03 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Venolia pistons
>
> I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an engine
> with them right now.
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
>> A M I C I
>> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
>> I am looking for clearance specs.
>> Thanks
>> D
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
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> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From igofaster at att.net  Fri May  3 20:18:34 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 19:18:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1367633914.12878.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I was excited I was sub 2:00 a couple of laps...I came around the Panoz on the 
inside of the back straight and got four off again...at THAT point I felt like I 
was driving beyond my limits  so I came in before the 18 laps was completed... I 
call it under-steer but I think the tires were just slippery at that point...
I did come up to the Panoz driver after the fact and apologized for the 'bone 
head' move because I didn't want to be known as 'that guy' who doesn't have a 
clue...all for naught though....as I was appreciated for even trying to 
apologize..

Bobby
To: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 2, 2013 7:04:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing

Congrats Bobby, I hope you still have all your fenders. GT2 is a great class.
I always thought four off meant off the ground. Now I gotta figure out that 
black flag thingie.
So, how did you do?
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
> group...
> APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
> trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
> 'maintaining control' ...  
> 
> 
> Bobby Whitehead
> 
> http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May  6 07:59:26 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 09:59:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
Message-ID: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>

Amici...

Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at 
Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some thirty 
students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full house at 
Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very good.

Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
traditional first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
don't build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
prep races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown races. 
 My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I bet on 
GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the sloppy 
track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep up with 
the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I picked 
to run third won the Derby and looked great.

Maybe I'll give building engines a try.

Bill (Damdinger)


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May  6 08:34:41 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 14:34:41 +0000
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
In-Reply-To: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>
References: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A895E@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once!  Very
windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember having a
cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.

There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones.  I was
fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the only
Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and Tim/Ryan Murphy
and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)

Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car and did
the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!

Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get by him
once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...

Amici...

Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some thirty
students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full house
at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very good.

Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its traditional
first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I don't
build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the prep
races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown races.
 My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I bet on
GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the sloppy
track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep up with
the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I picked to
run third won the Derby and looked great.

Maybe I'll give building engines a try.

Bill (Damdinger)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May  6 09:11:30 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 15:11:30 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A8AC2@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

So, one of the features of Gingerman, as revised, is a long, long left-hand
sweeper, which invites the driver to slide the car through as fast has he/she
feels is appropriate.  It's  a little like Road America's carousel, I'd say,
but downhill and off-camber in places, lumpier, and not quite so uniform
somehow.

Anyway, I noticed the Spit rear suspension "bucking" a little as I ran through
there.  That's the best way I can describe it.  I'd be sliding the car through
there and the rear would catch and hop just a little.  Spooky feeling.  I
would prefer it didn't do this at that sort of speed.

Any good ideas of where to start with this?  Is it likely the tire is rolling
over too much?  Dreaded swing-axle tuck?  I thought about mounting my GoPro
under there to see what can be seen, ala Chris Marx.

Scott B.


From mmoore at wave1.net  Mon May  6 11:01:24 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 13:01:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 alignment
Message-ID: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>

I am going to have my local shop check the alignment on my TR4, without
sounding too naive, are there basic specs that I should give him for neutral
handling (excepting camber) or do I let him use the specs in his computer.

 

 

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May  6 11:06:39 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 17:06:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A8AC2@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <252133933.1400956.1367859999750.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Scott,

Downhill, off camber and lumpy suggest the rear end is unloading periodically
over the lumpy bits.

Assuming your tire pressures and spring rates are already dialedB  IB  wouldB 
tighten up the rebound

dampening on the rear shocks but I don't know if you have that adjustment on
yours.

If you can't adjust just the rebound then just a stiffer overall setting may
settle it down.

Tightening up the rear sway bar a smidge may help too.

Downhill & off camber you also may need to look at the front end to make sure
some excessive dive

or roll isn't upsetting a normally well behaving rear e nd.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Scott Barr" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 6, 2013 9:11:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension

So, one of the features of Gingerman, as revised, is a long, long left-hand
sweeper, which invites the driver to slide the car through as fast has he/she
feels is appropriate. B It's B a little like Road America's carousel, I'd say,
but downhill and off-camber in places, lumpier, and not quite so uniform
somehow.

Anyway, I noticed the Spit rear suspension "bucking" a little as I ran through
there. B That's the best way I can describe it. B I'd be sliding the car
through
there and the rear would catch and hop just a little. B Spooky feeling. B I
would prefer it didn't do this at that sort of speed.

Any good ideas of where to start with this? B Is it likely the tire is rolling
over too much? B Dreaded swing-axle tuck? B I thought about mounting my GoPro
under there to see what can be seen, ala Chris Marx.

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon May  6 11:10:21 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 07:10:21 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 alignment
In-Reply-To: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>
References: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>
Message-ID: <4E41E2AF-B978-4D93-93E1-B432CF8473A7@bnj.com>

Are you going to race it, or drive it on radials, or do you plan to street
drive it on skinny bias-ply tires.

On May 6, 2013, at 7:01 AM, "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net> wrote:

> I am going to have my local shop check the alignment on my TR4, without
> sounding too naive, are there basic specs that I should give him for
neutral
> handling (excepting camber) or do I let him use the specs in his computer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Mon May  6 15:12:33 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 16:12:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC8FECD9-34BF-4D1F-AE5E-28BF7901B28E@comcast.net>
	<CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>

Finally cleaning out the backlog of my FOT emails. Figured I'd throw my
long drive stories out there. Had a 1980 TR7 convertible and went from
Indianapolis, IN back to my parents in Kingston NY, drove all over the
Catskills and Adirondacks and back in about a week and a half. Well over 2k
miles of driving. Also drove a TR4 from Indy to the UP of MI, then down to
a really big lake in KY, (Cumberland?) within 2 days, sailed on a houseboat
on that lake for a week, then drove from there to Montreal for the GP. Then
down to Kingston again, then back to Indy. No clue what the miles were. For
some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph Spitfire.
Mike


On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:20 PM, robert bownes <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> I think the original question was about race hours rather than road
> trips...But if you are going to talk road trips...
>
> Albany, NY to Dallas Tx for the 1989 VTR meet. Nonstop in the TR6. top
> down. Race in Dallas (win), pick up buddy at airport, drive to
> Minneapolis/St. Paul over 1.5 days (top down), spend 2 days in MSP, then
> non stop MSP->ALB some of it in the rain. Total somewhere in the
> neighborhood of 3400 miles in about 8 days. Was an epic road trip that can
> only be pulled off in college. ;)
>
>
> Plenty of other great road trips in that car... All with a race
> destination. My favourite is still autox on the streets of Waterloo, Iowa.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Vintage Racer
> <vintage.racer at comcast.net>wrote:
>
> > During Spring break from college in 1966, a good friend and I decided to
> > drive
> > my 1959 TR3 from the San Francisco Bay Area to Guaymas, Mexico which is
> due
> > south of Nogales.  Guaymas was a very small fishing village on the Gulf
> of
> > California and the only plans we made were to camp on a yet to be
> > determined
> > beach during our week stay.  In order to pack camping essentials and our
> > clothes we had to leave the side curtains behind due to lack of storage
> > space.
> > We left early one morning and arrived in Guaymas the evening of the
> second
> > day.  We alternated driving at each gas stop.  On our third morning we
> were
> > surprised to see two of our dorm mates driving towards the same beach
> > where we
> > were headed.  We joined forces and had an enjoyable time bumming around
> the
> > area.  The drive home was made in two days but the TR required a quart of
> > oil
> > at every gas stop.  Other than that, the car never missed a beat over the
> > 2300
> > miles we covered.  That summer, my father and I rebuilt the TR's
> > engine..great
> > little car but I sure appreciated the roll up windows on my friends new
> > TR4 he
> > acquired shortly after our return.
> >
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Mon May  6 16:20:32 2013
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don TR)
Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 18:20:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive
In-Reply-To: <CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC8FECD9-34BF-4D1F-AE5E-28BF7901B28E@comcast.net>
	<CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C089F21578F24B8485D945146DD01771@DonPC>

As for the longest drive in my 1958 TR3A which I bought brand new in May,
1958, I drove a total of 7300 "touring" miles from Montreal to VTR in
Portland Oregon in 2000 and then back home.

Back about 1960 to 1963, I rallied my TR3A extensively and it was nothing
unusual to have a 500 or 600 mile rally.  Most was navigational, but during
the night sections, we had some spirited speeds to try to meet - not to be
late at the next control.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
Montreal, Canada

PS - I have driven "TRusty" over 110,000 miles since I did the full
restoration from 1987 to 1990.  In 2007, VTR gave me 384 points out of 400
in the judged concourse after having driven 94,000 miles since it was
restored.
---------------------------------------------------------------

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Jankowski
Sent: May-06-13 5:13 PM
To: robert bownes
Cc: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Longest Drive

Finally cleaning out the backlog of my FOT emails. Figured I'd throw my
long drive stories out there. Had a 1980 TR7 convertible and went from
Indianapolis, IN back to my parents in Kingston NY, drove all over the
Catskills and Adirondacks and back in about a week and a half. Well over 2k
miles of driving. Also drove a TR4 from Indy to the UP of MI, then down to
a really big lake in KY, (Cumberland?) within 2 days, sailed on a houseboat
on that lake for a week, then drove from there to Montreal for the GP. Then
down to Kingston again, then back to Indy. No clue what the miles were. For
some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph Spitfire.
Mike


On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:20 PM, robert bownes <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> I think the original question was about race hours rather than road
> trips...But if you are going to talk road trips...
>
> Albany, NY to Dallas Tx for the 1989 VTR meet. Nonstop in the TR6. top
> down. Race in Dallas (win), pick up buddy at airport, drive to
> Minneapolis/St. Paul over 1.5 days (top down), spend 2 days in MSP, then
> non stop MSP->ALB some of it in the rain. Total somewhere in the
> neighborhood of 3400 miles in about 8 days. Was an epic road trip that can
> only be pulled off in college. ;)
>
>
> Plenty of other great road trips in that car... All with a race
> destination. My favourite is still autox on the streets of Waterloo, Iowa.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Vintage Racer
> <vintage.racer at comcast.net>wrote:
>
> > During Spring break from college in 1966, a good friend and I decided to
> > drive
> > my 1959 TR3 from the San Francisco Bay Area to Guaymas, Mexico which is
> due
> > south of Nogales.  Guaymas was a very small fishing village on the Gulf
> of
> > California and the only plans we made were to camp on a yet to be
> > determined
> > beach during our week stay.  In order to pack camping essentials and our
> > clothes we had to leave the side curtains behind due to lack of storage
> > space.
> > We left early one morning and arrived in Guaymas the evening of the
> second
> > day.  We alternated driving at each gas stop.  On our third morning we
> were
> > surprised to see two of our dorm mates driving towards the same beach
> > where we
> > were headed.  We joined forces and had an enjoyable time bumming around
> the
> > area.  The drive home was made in two days but the TR required a quart
of
> > oil
> > at every gas stop.  Other than that, the car never missed a beat over
the
> > 2300
> > miles we covered.  That summer, my father and I rebuilt the TR's
> > engine..great
> > little car but I sure appreciated the roll up windows on my friends new
> > TR4 he
> > acquired shortly after our return.
> >
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May  6 18:48:06 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:48:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 cylinder head water jacket plug fix
Message-ID: <690E36F4-F097-4D40-85BF-61B2390636A3@comcast.net>

The subject line pretty much states the problem. Is there
A good procedure for getting the old one out ?
Tony's site says to tap it for an npt plug.
Has any one done this while the head is on the car?
Thanks as always,
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone


From jkhagen at charter.net  Mon May  6 18:54:50 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:54:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
Message-ID: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>

Thanks to Scott Barr for coming over and saying hi--had fun with him and 
the Green TR-4.  VSCDA does a great job it instructors -one on one for 
over 30 guys! Our buddy Steve Nichols got his ticket--can't wipe the 
smile off!--John Hagen


On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once! 
> Very
> windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember 
> having a
> cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.
>
> There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones. 
> I was
> fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the 
> only
> Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and 
> Tim/Ryan Murphy
> and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)
>
> Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car 
> and did
> the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!
>
> Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get 
> by him
> once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On Behalf
> Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
>
> Amici...
>
> Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
> Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some 
> thirty
> students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full 
> house
> at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very 
> good.
>
> Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
> traditional
> first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
> don't
> build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
> prep
> races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown 
> races.
>  My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I 
> bet on
> GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the 
> sloppy
> track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep 
> up with
> the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I 
> picked to
> run third won the Derby and looked great.
>
> Maybe I'll give building engines a try.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon May  6 20:33:38 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 21:33:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
In-Reply-To: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000601ce4acb$48c723f0$da556bd0$@com>

Like Scott said, it was a great weekend other than my knee problem.  I had
done a little test run on our Town roads and thought the knee would be okay.
At first at the track I thought maybe the new brake pads just weren't
grabbing very well but soon realized that I just didn't have enough strength
in my "new" knee.  Like has been said many times before, there is nothing
like being on the track and running with other cars except actually doing
it.  But VSCDA was very accommodating and Ryan did make the team proud!!
 We had modified the suspension to give the appropriate camber for the
Hoosier radials and it made a big improvement in the handling.  That plus
the increase in power from my recent rebuild gave me the opportunity to
experience power oversteer coming out of turn three and taking a ride
through the grass!  We adjusted tire pressures to try to give a bit less
oversteer now that the fronts were gripping better and it occurred to me
that out pressures seemed a bit high.  I called Tony Drews and he confirmed
that our pressures were too high and gave us a recommendation for the
conditions we were experiencing.  We made that adjustment and on Sunday warm
up Ryan reported that we were back to our mostly neutral handling with the
rear of the car starting to drift out and helping to rotate rather than
tending to understeer to the outside of the track.  Thanks again to Tony for
helping a fellow racer!!!

Tim & Ryan
#317 TR4 BRG

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jkhagen at charter.net
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 7:55 PM
To: Barr, Scott
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...

Thanks to Scott Barr for coming over and saying hi--had fun with him and 
the Green TR-4.  VSCDA does a great job it instructors -one on one for 
over 30 guys! Our buddy Steve Nichols got his ticket--can't wipe the 
smile off!--John Hagen


On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once! 
> Very
> windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember 
> having a
> cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.
>
> There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones. 
> I was
> fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the 
> only
> Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and 
> Tim/Ryan Murphy
> and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)
>
> Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car 
> and did
> the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!
>
> Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get 
> by him
> once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On Behalf
> Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
>
> Amici...
>
> Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
> Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some 
> thirty
> students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full 
> house
> at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very 
> good.
>
> Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
> traditional
> first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
> don't
> build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
> prep
> races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown 
> races.
>  My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I 
> bet on
> GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the 
> sloppy
> track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep 
> up with
> the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I 
> picked to
> run third won the Derby and looked great.
>
> Maybe I'll give building engines a try.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net
_______________________________________________
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From joeg at neb.rr.com  Tue May  7 12:50:32 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 13:50:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive (Mike Jankowski)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>

If you ever start planning that trip - get in touch with me and I'll send
you a copy of The North American Spitfire Squadron's glove box companion -
"The MASH Book".  MASH is the Mobile Army of Spitfire Helpers.  We've had a
few guys do coast-to-coast tours and the MASH book is nice to have with you.
Handy even if you're just doing a short tour out of your own area.  It's a
list of "willing to assist" Spitfire owners who have shops, tools, trailers,
etc.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

-----------------------Original Message Snip-----------------------------
For some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph
Spitfire.
Mike


From my71spit13 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 13:02:22 2013
From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:02:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
Message-ID: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For the
first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the back
end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on what
may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs smooth
and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
 left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
Thank you in advance!!!
 
Shawn Frank
Continued Legacy
Drive Away Cancer Iowa
515-339-4228


From spitlist at cox.net  Tue May  7 13:09:31 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>

Sounds like a fuel tank issue.  If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
outlet.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Shawn Frank
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
To: Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns

I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
the
first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
back
end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
what
may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs smooth
and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
 left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
Thank you in advance!!!
 
Shawn Frank
Continued Legacy
Drive Away Cancer Iowa
515-339-4228
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From clw2000 at msn.com  Tue May  7 13:23:04 2013
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Chuck WATSON)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:23:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>
References: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>,
	<30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue May  7 13:30:54 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 19:30:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel supply
as the g-force of the turn

swings the floats and shuts the float valve.

Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that you
could orient front/rear instead of left/right.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue May  7 13:30:56 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 19:30:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <463644229.1443838.1367955056342.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel supply
as the g-force of the turn

swings the floats and shuts the float valve.

Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that you
could orient front/rear instead of left/right.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Tue May  7 14:20:25 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:20:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive (Mike Jankowski)
In-Reply-To: <005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
	<005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVvHRQ4aAVm627_7OGwRqEekSN5=XnyPq11Og14LU0aiyw@mail.gmail.com>

Oh cool!!!! Thank you!!!!!!


On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 1:50 PM, Joe Guinan <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> If you ever start planning that trip - get in touch with me and I'll send
> you a copy of The North American Spitfire Squadron's glove box companion -
> "The MASH Book".  MASH is the Mobile Army of Spitfire Helpers.  We've had a
> few guys do coast-to-coast tours and the MASH book is nice to have with
> you.
> Handy even if you're just doing a short tour out of your own area.  It's a
> list of "willing to assist" Spitfire owners who have shops, tools,
> trailers,
> etc.
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
>
> -----------------------Original Message Snip-----------------------------
> For some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph
> Spitfire.
> Mike


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 14:35:31 2013
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 13:35:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>

There may be another issue in terms of fuel line setup and pressure. I am
running 3.5 psi and have one line running to the front bowl and a fuel line
from the front bowl to the back. I see other configurations, but this is what
works for me. Do you run your fuel lines in the same manner or have separate
lines to each carb?

Question for the group. I believe the fuel line setup I have is the stock
configuration. Is there any benefit or detriment to setting the lines up this
way?  Is there a reason why Triumph ran he fuel line this way?

Also, I pulled a stock tank out of a second TR4 I own. It had 4 one inch
landscape rocks in the tank.  If you are running a stock tank, it is worth a
look see. In this case, someone must have made someone else pretty mad years
ago!

I can send you the float lid numbers if needed.

Ty

Sent from my iPhone



On May 7, 2013, at 12:30 PM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel
supply
> as the g-force of the turn
>
> swings the floats and shuts the float valve.
>
> Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that
you
> could orient front/rear instead of left/right.
>
> jim g
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
> To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
> mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the
bowls.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Watson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: spitlist at cox.net
>> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
>> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>>
>> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
>> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
>> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
>> outlet.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
>> To: Friends of Triumph
>> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>>
>> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
>> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
>> the
>> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for
a
>> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires,
I
>> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
>> back
>> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
>> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate
it
>> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every
time
>> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
>> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
>> what
>> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is
no
>> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
> smooth
>> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
>> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
>> Thank you in advance!!!
>>
>> Shawn Frank
>> Continued Legacy
>> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
>> 515-339-4228
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue May  7 14:43:24 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 22:43:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Engine run - 2nd try
In-Reply-To: <42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>
References: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004101ce4b63$85f69ba0$91e3d2e0$@com>

One week ago I started my new build engine, drove out of town when the
engine freezed.
The crank was stuck on main #3.

Now, after making engine parts in a hurry the engine gave the first sound
again today.
Hope the 2nd try will be more successful.

http://youtu.be/wC12CVtMOgA

Cheers
Chris


From bld4139 at aol.com  Wed May  8 07:32:03 2013
From: bld4139 at aol.com (bld4139 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 09:32:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] hi!
Message-ID: <8D01A078F5CB93A-2340-1D46F@webmail-m265.sysops.aol.com>

http://ebridge.sk/brain.php?clzbn821xc
































































































**********************
I am not pregnant... I just accidentally swallowed a football.


From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Wed May  8 07:44:55 2013
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 14:44:55 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Renault Clio Cup Round 4 from Donington Park Apr 2013 -
	YouTube
Message-ID: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>

Dear all, thought you might like to see what my son gets up to in the UK,
enjoy

Keith

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VUCjkJxEMJc


From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Thu May  9 14:10:36 2013
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 16:10:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement
Message-ID: <15f4e845.4210b.13e8aeab2b2.Webtop.8@optonline.net>

Friends,

Would someone please take a measurement of a TR3 engine and trans combo?

I need from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point, I guess the 
valve cover fill cap. (Overall height)
Also from the front, including the fan, to the rear of the transmission 
yoke.  (Overall length)

Thanks in advance.

Todd Redmond
TS 29341


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:39:38 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:39:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Rick Cline
Message-ID: <BLU176-W17470FCBECAC675888D234DAA40@phx.gbl>

Anyone have Rick Cline's current e-mail address?  When they converted hotmail
to outlook, they dumped my contact list.  I wish to hell they'd stop
"improving" things!

Fred Hodgson


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:53:50 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:53:50 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rick Cline's e-mail
Message-ID: <BLU176-DS148DAF550CE9460C809CAADAA40@phx.gbl>

Thanks guys.

Fred Hodgson


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:58:28 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:58:28 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rick Cline's e-mail
Message-ID: <BLU176-DS15B8252845FA3A7F0D36FBDAA40@phx.gbl>

Thanks guys.

Fred Hodgson


From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May  9 14:53:44 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
Message-ID: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>

A local engine builder has recommended that the
2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
cannot figure out any benefit.

Any thoughts from this group?

art de armond


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May  9 16:18:15 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 22:18:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement
In-Reply-To: <15f4e845.4210b.13e8aeab2b2.Webtop.8@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <161268269.1523127.1368137895436.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If you plan to use roller rockers plan for a taller valve cover than stock,
just fyi.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Todd Redmond" <alfetta95 at optonline.net>
To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 2:10:36 PM
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement

Friends,

Would someone please take a measurement of a TR3 engine and trans combo?

I need from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point, I guess the
valve cover fill cap. (Overall height)
Also from the front, including the fan, to the rear of the transmission
yoke. B (Overall length)

Thanks in advance.

Todd Redmond
TS 29341
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From mmoore at wave1.net  Thu May  9 18:01:14 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 20:01:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May  9 18:47:50 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 20:47:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <E3EE310069584D8DAC5A8D5E04857762@hpd530>

Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the 
back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the 
bellhousing.
If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the 
clutch.
Like I said, not sure about a 4.
Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
Good luck, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help


> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
>
>
> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
> new
> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
>
>
> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
> way
> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
> won't come back up.
>
>
>
> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May  9 18:56:21 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 20:56:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <C907091C696C45F9A39BF18C2037A878@hpd530>

P.S.
Various places sell an adjustable pushrod for the clutch.
If you want to drive down to Cambridge Springs tomorrow I have a spare I'll 
let you try.
Bill
1.4 miles south of Campbell's Pottery.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help


> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
>
>
> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
> new
> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
>
>
> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
> way
> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
> won't come back up.
>
>
>
> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Thu May  9 19:04:47 2013
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 11:04:47 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Mike,
Sounds like the thrust bearing sleeve is moving too far forward and then
locking up on the gearbox nose that guides the clutch thrust bearing
carrier.


Cheers..

Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Friday, 10 May 2013 10:01 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From jason at multivintage.com  Thu May  9 19:17:03 2013
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <mailman.238.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I would be most interested in what the slave is actually doing when you press the peddle. At least That will tell you if its 'before' or 'after' that point.
J.O. FGR. 
------Original Message------
From: Mike Moore
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Sent: May 9, 2013 7:01 PM

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com



Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


From sjanzen at me.com  Thu May  9 19:24:38 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 21:24:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <9EC94E7A-8057-4A30-88AF-9C1468268825@me.com>

get someone to push on the pedal while you look at the slave.  You should
immediately see clutch lever actuator movement at the transmission.  If you
don't, and the air is out, adjust the rods.  Question - was there any problem
before you replaced the master - I hate to suggest the possibility that the
tapered pin in the cross shaft is sheared (inside the bell housing) . . .
To Peter's comment, there are two different length "noses" for these
transmissions, but if it was working before with the same size master and
slave, nothing should have changed.

On May 9, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Peter Vucinic wrote:

Mike,
Sounds like the thrust bearing sleeve is moving too far forward and then
locking up on the gearbox nose that guides the clutch thrust bearing
carrier.


Cheers..

Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Friday, 10 May 2013 10:01 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.



I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.



With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.



I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.



Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu May  9 20:14:32 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 19:14:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <345ggxibq3go3ci6nve8qetg.1368151952638@email.android.com>

What are you running for a clutch? Any chance you overextended the pressure plate?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone

Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net> wrote:

>This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
> 
>
>I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
>slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
> 
>
>With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
>to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>won't come back up.
>
> 
>
>I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
> 
>
>Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
> 
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>
> 
>
>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
>2007 West 32nd Street
>
>Erie, PA 16508
>
> 
>
>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
>Fax:        814-864-7383
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow04 at tr4racer.com


From mmoore at wave1.net  Fri May 10 07:41:45 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:41:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Thrust angle
Message-ID: <000301ce4d84$1d37c8a0$57a759e0$@net>

I just had my racing TR4 aligned.

 

Thrust angle is 48. They told me it should be less than 30. Is this enough
to make an adjustment for?

 

My thought was to elongate the hole on the plate under rear axle so I can
shift it slightly. They said an 1/8" would be enough.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Fri May 10 10:50:44 2013
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:50:44 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.

~Steve



-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>To: Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net>, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the 
>back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the 
>bellhousing.
>If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the 
>clutch.
>Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>Good luck, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
>To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>
>> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>>
>>
>>
>> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
>> new
>> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>>
>>
>>
>> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
>> way
>> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>> won't come back up.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>>
>>
>>
>> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>> Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri May 10 11:03:26 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 10:03:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <21369F78-EFA7-4D22-8215-AB64E165A94B@bnj.com>

It's easy to overstroke aftermarket clutches. When you do you often crack out
the center boss. You have to know what the maximum stroke is and make sure you
have a stop or a properly sized MC/SC ratio to ensure you can't stroke past
that far. The pushrod needs to be loose enough to turn freely to make sure
you're not putting continuous pressure on the thrust bearings, and make sure
if you replaced the MC with an aftermarket product that it doesn't have a
residual pressure valve built into it. If it does you have to take it out or
the clutch will be impossible to adjuts and you'll toast the thrust bearings.
Bleed the system carefully, adjust the pushrod, and it should be fine.

Speedbleeders work really well, cheap, easy to install, and they let you get
some good quick pumps to carry out the stubborn bubbles.
On May 10, 2013, at 9:50 AM, steve <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.
>
> ~Steve
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bill Tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>> Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>> To: Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net>, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>>
>> Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the
>> back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the
>> bellhousing.
>> If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the
>> clutch.
>> Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>> Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>> Good luck, Bill
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
>> To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>>
>>
>>> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and
>>> new
>>> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the
>>> way
>>> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>>> won't come back up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>>
>>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>>
>>> Erie, PA 16508
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>>
>>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From gaf3 at charter.net  Fri May 10 11:05:47 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:05:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
Message-ID: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>

Group
Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of 
spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 
(trans and O/D) for a quick swap later.
The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is 
different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
Thanks in advance
Glenn


From joeg at neb.rr.com  Fri May 10 12:58:05 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:58:05 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>

Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing has an event at High Plains Raceway on May 18
& 19.  South of Fort Morgan, East of Denver.  I'm tagging along with a
friend who's running a Sprite, and a couple other local Brit Car Club
members. Wondering if there will be any other FOT members that I can
bother...

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska


From igofaster at att.net  Fri May 10 14:01:20 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:01:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] high volume oil pump
Message-ID: <1368216080.99297.YahooMailRC@web182205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

wondering if there is a need or a source for a high volume oil pump for the 
GT6.. apparently the engine I'm building referenced a late model GT6 with the 
8.5 compression ratio... we're getting close to having an engine for the 
GT6...forged rods forged pistons... zero deck... my head and cam survived Road 
Atlanta so at least I have THAT....
God Bless F.o.T.    Bobby Whitehead


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri May 10 14:02:05 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:02:05 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
In-Reply-To: <00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
	<00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3BF8BDEB-E853-46D0-8BCC-86CC3513EE35@comcast.net>

Yes,
There will be 5 Tr4's and one spitfire.
We will be at the west end of the carports.
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 12:58 PM, "Joe Guinan" <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing has an event at High Plains Raceway on May 18
> & 19.  South of Fort Morgan, East of Denver.  I'm tagging along with a
> friend who's running a Sprite, and a couple other local Brit Car Club
> members. Wondering if there will be any other FOT members that I can
> bother...
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From stlnyc at msn.com  Fri May 10 14:10:11 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:10:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] looking for GT6Steve
Message-ID: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>

Need info on your rear axle conversion for GT6+


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri May 10 15:01:16 2013
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 17:01:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] looking for GT6Steve
In-Reply-To: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT403-EAS5726488FE49B8AF6AE48D5B2A50@phx.gbl>

I'd be interested in hearing about that conversion too please.   I have 2
gt6+. I'd consider it for.  THX

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-05-10, at 4:10 PM, "Fred and Mary Hodgson" <stlnyc at msn.com> wrote:

> Need info on your rear axle conversion for GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 10 18:31:12 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:31:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 glove box door
Message-ID: <572197.60188.bm@smtp112.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

A M I C I
I am building another Triumph based race car.  I like to use the steel
dashboards from the TR4, and I have one of those.
I am missing the glove box door - does anyone have one to sell?
Thanks
Dennis


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Fri May 10 18:37:37 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:37:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
Message-ID: <71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Glenn,
This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is thicker.
The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as the
earlier flange.

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Glenn Franco
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4

Group
Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 (trans
and O/D) for a quick swap later.
The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
Thanks in advance
Glenn
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 18:40:00 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:40:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Renault Clio Cup Round 4 from Donington Park Apr 2013 -
 YouTube
In-Reply-To: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>
References: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.239.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Wow.  That was a great drive by Josh!  You must be proud.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 08:44 AM 5/8/2013, Keith Files wrote:
>Dear all, thought you might like to see what my son gets up to in the UK,
>enjoy
>
>Keith
>
>http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VUCjkJxEMJc
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 18:40:57 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:40:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <mailman.240.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Doesn't sound right to me.

Tony Drews

At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>A local engine builder has recommended that the
>2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
>the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>cannot figure out any benefit.
>
>Any thoughts from this group?
>
>art de armond
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri May 10 19:04:50 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 18:04:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <20130511004336.9CF4442570@autox.team.net>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
	<20130511004336.9CF4442570@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <99DFFF1A-C5C5-45CC-947E-DBA8D85A79B3@bnj.com>

It's backwards. Some engine builders do a little more gap on the top ring
because it gets hotter. All the end gap is for is to prevent the ring from
pushing hard on itself when it expands. Sounds to me like you have a weird
engine builder.


On May 10, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Doesn't sound right to me.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>> A local engine builder has recommended that the
>> 2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
>> the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>> cannot figure out any benefit.
>>
>> Any thoughts from this group?
>>
>> art de armond
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 19:12:46 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 20:12:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
	<71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.241.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

May need to slot the rear mounts a bit to get things to line up too, 
although I didn't need to.

Tony Drews

At 07:37 PM 5/10/2013, Steve Yott wrote:
>Glenn,
>This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
>of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
>longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is thicker.
>The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
>stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as the
>earlier flange.
>
>Steve Yott
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Glenn Franco
>Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
>To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
>
>Group
>Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
>I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
>spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 (trans
>and O/D) for a quick swap later.
>The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
>different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
>Thanks in advance
>Glenn
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 10 19:39:33 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 21:39:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <BLU168-W607E5B7BA43218EEBFD4CBAA60@phx.gbl>

While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to install
in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's the oil of
choice in these? Street car.

Thanks,


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri May 10 19:42:12 2013
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (K LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:42:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
Message-ID: <BLU178-DS151D7D85766F034732A981B7A60@phx.gbl>

Hi Joe, feel free to pop into 'Control' and say hello...

Kev Lynch
Race Steward


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Fri May 10 19:53:48 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 20:53:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W607E5B7BA43218EEBFD4CBAA60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <51.A7.06694.0B4AD815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

I have used Redline MT90 exclusively for many years (about 50 gearbox builds
without any issues with either the A or J overdrives.  This oil foams less
than all the others I ever tested and foam does not lubricate!  Expensive
but worth it!

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 8:40 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif

While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to
install in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's
the oil of choice in these? Street car.

Thanks,
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com


From kaskastner at gmail.com  Fri May 10 19:57:45 2013
From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 18:57:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Ring end gaps
Message-ID: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>

If you leave the second compression ring on the bench and do not fit it
like I did, then you have no worry about the gaps.

*Never be beaten by equipment.*


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May 10 20:11:05 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 22:11:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ring end gaps
In-Reply-To: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ED9910AC-F7B8-4F6B-B4DB-42A6DE5F984A@gdhs.com>

Ah!  Just like the MT 125 Honda road racer I tuned I'm the 70's.  It had moto
cross air cooled single cyl engine with 3 rings. I just used the top,
compression ring.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 9:57 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskastner at gmail.com> wrote:

> If you leave the second compression ring on the bench and do not fit it
> like I did, then you have no worry about the gaps.
>
> *Never be beaten by equipment.*
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 10 20:18:52 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 21:18:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR Trip to East Coast
Message-ID: <A54548BB-130D-422B-B5BC-292CA3C6AE68@cs.com>

Sent from my iPad
Small world.....had a meeting with guy in Newark, NJ. Former SoCal guy. Knew
Dunst, Smock, Burroughs, and more.

TRIUMPH TRS.    One of the historic Le Mans Triumphs is being restored in near
Armagh, PA. It is well on its way to a meticulous and faithful restoration. It
was great to see it.


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May 10 20:19:39 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 22:19:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <20130511011529.C137F425A4@autox.team.net>
References: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
	<71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<20130511011529.C137F425A4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <40D3AF47-46DD-4C47-B8AF-F3DDA12D2DCF@gdhs.com>

Tony , Henry  .....I am going to Watkins Glen 6/7; so won't make
Summit.....hope to see you guys at Mid Ohio for another "blanket" race!
Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 9:12 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> May need to slot the rear mounts a bit to get things to line up too,
although I didn't need to.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 07:37 PM 5/10/2013, Steve Yott wrote:
>> Glenn,
>> This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
>> of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
>> longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is
thicker.
>> The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
>> stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as
the
>> earlier flange.
>>
>> Steve Yott
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Glenn Franco
>> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
>> To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
>>
>> Group
>> Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
>> I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
>> spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2
(trans
>> and O/D) for a quick swap later.
>> The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
>> different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
>> Thanks in advance
>> Glenn
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Sat May 11 07:19:54 2013
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 06:19:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <20130511004336.806EE4256B@autox.team.net>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
	<20130511004336.806EE4256B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring 
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says. 
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To:
riverside at southslope.net; FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Sent: Friday, May 10,
2013 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Doesn't sound right to
me.

Tony Drews

At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>A
local engine builder has recommended that the
>2nd compression ring have a
larger end gap than
>the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>cannot figure out any benefit.
>
>Any thoughts from this group?
>
>art de
armond
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive:
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Sat May 11 07:30:23 2013
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:30:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>

 Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner &lt;j.wags63 at yahoo.com&gt;
To: Tony Drews &lt;tony at tonydrews.com&gt;; riverside
&lt;riverside at southslope.net&gt;; FOT &lt;fot at autox.team.net&gt;
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question




     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


From BillDentin at aol.com  Sat May 11 07:32:02 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:32:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <12a7b7.480ac13b.3ebfa252@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/10/2013 8:39:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:


> While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to 
> install
> in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's the 
> oil of
> choice in these? Street car.
> 
> 

Back in the day, they used to say that the clutches in that tranny really 
wanted two distinct fluids, and that KENDALL Three Star was as close as you 
could get to addressing both of those needs, but since our own ODs have been 
on the shelf for years, there may be a better tranny fluid out and available 
now.

Bill Dentinger


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Sat May 11 15:20:25 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 17:20:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly. 

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat May 11 16:20:18 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:20:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>

I run non-detergent oil in some of my old tractors (guess it ties into the 
old tractor engine thing!)
If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, it's available there. Sometimes in 
different weights than my local parts store can get.
Tractor on!
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif


> Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. 
> I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of 
> the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I 
> believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in 
> and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.
>
> It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD 
> box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this 
> Spring  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same 
> cheap oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. 
> Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly.
>
> I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a 
> close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. 
> Redline oil is way too expensive for that!
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From triosan at gmail.com  Sat May 11 17:36:22 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 16:36:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
	<558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDsEcYDQmf_MZhiVKvZk4zbJ2zp8Af1_e=MRYf_AvjvBg@mail.gmail.com>

Redline MTL full race jtype. Flawless.  Set a personal best at Pacific
Raceways -- 2seconds up on last year. 1:42:6.
On May 11, 2013 3:21 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net> wrote:

> I run non-detergent oil in some of my old tractors (guess it ties into the
> old tractor engine thing!)
> If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, it's available there. Sometimes in
> different weights than my local parts store can get.
> Tractor on!
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
> To: <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 5:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
>
>  Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car.
>> I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of
>> the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I
>> believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in
>> and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.
>>
>> It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD
>> box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring
>>  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap
>> oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR.
>> Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly.
>>
>> I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take
>> a close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box.
>> Redline oil is way too expensive for that!
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/fot/william.tobin31@**verizon.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/triosan at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com>


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Sun May 12 13:34:21 2013
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 12:34:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1368387261.94818.YahooMailRC@web184806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Should gasket sealer be used on one side of this gasket or should it go in
with 
nothing on it?  I am using the white gasket that is labeled High
Performance.  
Thanks, Jim


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Sun May 12 14:36:13 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 15:36:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6
In-Reply-To: <1368387261.94818.YahooMailRC@web184806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <77.9A.06694.E3DFF815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

I do not use any sealer on the manifold gaskets.  

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sherry robyn
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 2:34 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6

Should gasket sealer be used on one side of this gasket or should it go in
with nothing on it?  I am using the white gasket that is labeled High
Performance.  
Thanks, Jim
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mmoore at wave1.net  Sun May 12 18:24:31 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:24:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
Message-ID: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>

At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.

 

Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.

 

Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.

 

Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
can't shift easily.

 

Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?

 

Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?

 

I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since this one looks ok.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sun May 12 18:55:12 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:55:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <C42EC368D37141AD8305B90C63DC128F@hpd530>

Mike, give me a call: 398-2908
I'll be up till 11:30.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school


> At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If 
> I
> go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>
>
>
> Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as 
> was
> in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>
>
>
> Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
> look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>
>
>
> Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
> can't shift easily.
>
>
>
> Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>
>
>
> Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>
>
>
> I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to 
> waste
> the time since this one looks ok.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 12 19:04:01 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:04:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <mailman.242.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper 
hole?  I have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce 
pedal effort and require more pedal travel.

Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master 
cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of 
fluid pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch 
engaged for a while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a 
wilwood master cylinder and find no reference of such a valve thought.

Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had 
before?  A smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave 
cylinder would increase pedal stroke and lower the engagement / 
disengagement closer to the floor.

Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any 
chance that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be 
replaced?  Sometimes rubber lines fail in a way that causes them to 
act as one way valves.

That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be 
hugely frustrating!

Tony Drews

At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
>go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>
>
>
>Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
>in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>
>
>
>Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>
>
>
>Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>can't shift easily.
>
>
>
>Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>
>
>
>Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>
>
>
>I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
>the time since this one looks ok.
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>
>
>
>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
>2007 West 32nd Street
>
>Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
>Fax:        814-864-7383
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sun May 12 19:41:51 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 21:41:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing   school
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
	<20130513010820.EBC8B40E39@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>

Hi Tony, I just talked to Mike.
He's running a braided line to the slave, but they have been known to fail 
at times.
Mike's coming down tomorrow AM. I have a spare M/C and Slave. I want to 
check the bore sizes on his and see if they are the same as mine.
Like I said to him, if the clutch worked before replacing the hydraulics and 
doesn't work now, it's probably the hydraulics.
Your thought of a residual valve in brake M/C is a good point.
Here's hoping! (I have a spare clutch too, just in case!)
Thanks for your help.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school


> Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper hole?  I 
> have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce pedal effort 
> and require more pedal travel.
>
> Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master 
> cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of fluid 
> pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch engaged 
> for a while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a wilwood master 
> cylinder and find no reference of such a valve thought.
>
> Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had before?  A 
> smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave cylinder would 
> increase pedal stroke and lower the engagement / disengagement closer to 
> the floor.
>
> Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any 
> chance that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be replaced?  Sometimes 
> rubber lines fail in a way that causes them to act as one way valves.
>
> That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be 
> hugely frustrating!
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>>At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If 
>>I
>>go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>>
>>
>>
>>Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as 
>>was
>>in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>>
>>
>>
>>Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>>look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>>
>>
>>
>>Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>>can't shift easily.
>>
>>
>>
>>Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>>
>>
>>
>>Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>>
>>
>>
>>I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to 
>>waste
>>the time since this one looks ok.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>>2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>>Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>>Fax:        814-864-7383
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun May 12 20:36:34 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 19:36:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing    school
In-Reply-To: <72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
	<20130513010820.EBC8B40E39@autox.team.net>
	<72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>
Message-ID: <89A1E02E-C2E9-4406-A647-37E696F7DE06@bnj.com>

It still sounds to me like a residual pressure valve. Remove the line from the
M/C, then unscrew the fitting from the body of the M/C. Under that fitting
there might be a valve bod and spring. remove then, reassemble.

A faulty line is also possible. With the peal all the way to the floor and
stuck, open the bleed valve and see what happens.
On May 12, 2013, at 6:41 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Tony, I just talked to Mike.
> He's running a braided line to the slave, but they have been known to fail
at times.
> Mike's coming down tomorrow AM. I have a spare M/C and Slave. I want to
check the bore sizes on his and see if they are the same as mine.
> Like I said to him, if the clutch worked before replacing the hydraulics and
doesn't work now, it's probably the hydraulics.
> Your thought of a residual valve in brake M/C is a good point.
> Here's hoping! (I have a spare clutch too, just in case!)
> Thanks for your help.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
>
>
>> Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper hole?  I
have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce pedal effort and
require more pedal travel.
>>
>> Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master
cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of fluid
pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch engaged for a
while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a wilwood master cylinder
and find no reference of such a valve thought.
>>
>> Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had before?  A
smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave cylinder would increase
pedal stroke and lower the engagement / disengagement closer to the floor.
>>
>> Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any chance
that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be replaced?  Sometimes rubber lines
fail in a way that causes them to act as one way valves.
>>
>> That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be
hugely frustrating!
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>>> At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If
I
>>> go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as
was
>>> in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>>> look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>>> can't shift easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to
waste
>>> the time since this one looks ok.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>>
>>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>>
>>> Erie, PA 16508
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>>
>>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Sun May 12 21:00:51 2013
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:00:51 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANbjSeG1YPdPiTyZ6H0v/zEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Mike,
Which side of the Metal bracket have you got the slave cylinder bolted to?
Sounds like you are about the thickness of the slave cylinder flange off
getting the right stroke?


Cheers


Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Monday, 13 May 2013 10:25 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school

At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.

 

Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.

 

Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.

 

Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
can't shift easily.

 

Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?

 

Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?

 

I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since this one looks ok.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun May 12 21:04:40 2013
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:04:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] In-Car video from VARA Buttonwillow May 5, 2013
Message-ID: <28878898.1368414280804.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Here's some cool in-car video from the Spitfire of DJ Isaac.  This is the Sunday Flag race from VARA's "British Extravaganza."
I appear in the video in my TR3 for the first 5 minutes before DJ goes sailing past me and sets the second fastest time of the race.  At about :51, I was on the inside signaling DJ that there was a spin happening ahead of us.
A few seconds later, an actual tumbleweed rolls across the track!
There's a scary moment at 6:15.  This kid is really quick.
Enjoy the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WprNn5iW4g&feature=youtu.be

~Steve


From britcars at bellsouth.net  Mon May 13 05:05:57 2013
From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 04:05:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <1368443157.38057.YahooMailNeo@web181704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Make sure you do not have a Quinton Hazel clutch setup. They stick just like
you describe. Next, check the diameter of your clutch hose, it should be
bigger than your brake line. Clutch hoses need to be bigger to allow the
pressure to release quickly. If the master cylinder took the same size fitting
as before, it is probably correct for the clutch, it should have a bigger line
fitting than a master brake cylinder. An adjustable pushrod is useless. The
only way it would have any effect on the situation is if you adjusted it so
far that the piston is bottomed out in the slave cylinder and then you would
be putting constant pressure on the TOB, not good. TR 3-6 hydraulic clutch
systems will always, when in good condition, push the piston out as far as it
will go just by the small internal spring. It just keeps very light pressure
on the pushrod. If you lengthen the pushrod, all you do is push the piston
back into the slave cylinder, until you go so far as
 to bottom it out. 
 

________________________________
 From: Mike Moore
<mmoore at wave1.net>
To: 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013
8:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.



Problem started
after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is
stock from Roadster Factory.



Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and
pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not
bent.



Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly
loose, I
can't shift easily.



Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?



I can drive 5
hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since
this one looks ok.



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd
Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:       
814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May 13 06:44:21 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:44:21 +0000
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

See the second article, from June 2005.

http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Yellow04
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 4:20 PM
To: trmarty at hotmail.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I
tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the
OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was
frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with
it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box,
and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring  to
sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that
has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly,
and the OD worked perfectly.

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a
close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline
oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From SpiwakD at aol.com  Mon May 13 07:26:09 2013
From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:26:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
performance?
 
David Spiwak


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 13 07:35:28 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 15:35:28 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort/NL - first race of season
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002701ce4fde$bcf770f0$36e652d0$@com>

I had some trouble on this first season.

- practice: not too good - P8
- race 1: Leaked water out
- pulled head and fitted gasket of the previous design
- race 2: recovered from P39 to P13 - could have been better but half the
racind distance the safety car was out while they removed oil from the track
- race 3: went out on old tires. Started to rain. Lost some positions. Then
track dried out and the hunt was on and I ended up on 4th overall.

Race 3 - first few minutes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffhIm_zTyWs

Maybe you asked where these telemetric datas are gone. I just forgot to
bring my CF-storage card for the video equipment.
So I had to use the camera out of my Hummer.

Cheers
Chris


From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon May 13 08:01:55 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 07:01:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>

Junk from crooks. 
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
> performance?
> 
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From rjl6n at cstone.net  Mon May 13 08:01:48 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:01:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <02608357439d739ad010ddcb1d54261b.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

That company does not have a very good reputation.  You might check
the "Monster List":

http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html

John

On Mon, May 13, 2013 9:26 am, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com


From riverside at southslope.net  Mon May 13 09:30:02 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:30:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>

What Bill said.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bill Babcock
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
To: SpiwakD at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Junk from crooks.
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13 


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon May 13 09:50:25 2013
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:50:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>

+1

On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> What Bill said.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 13 10:07:48 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:07:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> See the second article, from June 2005.
> 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm

Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with oil
that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.

-- Randall 


From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 10:10:33 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:10:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5CD8882A873C4BD494AF3361C88802E7@Vista>

Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative comments
about their quality and especially prices.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
performance?
 
David Spiwak
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From gasket.works at gte.net  Mon May 13 10:34:34 2013
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 16:34:34 +0000
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
	<213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <838641989-1368462880-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1858394632-@b4.c8.bise6.blackberry>

in 1995 I needed a gasket.  I ordered one from paeco. It was not satisfactory.   Hence Gasket Works was born.  
M
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:50:25 
To: <riverside at southslope.net><riverside at southslope.net>
Cc: Bill Babcock<ponobill at gmail.com>; fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

+1

On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> What Bill said.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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_______________________________________________
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 13 10:55:06 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:55:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Josh Files
Message-ID: <A848CD10-62E4-46B1-8580-E21396FD9BBE@cs.com>

Sent from my iPad
The press releases on Keith Files' son make great reading....

GO Josh!


From grandwazoo at earthlink.net  Mon May 13 11:06:37 2013
From: grandwazoo at earthlink.net (Mike Jackson)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:06:37 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 20+ years ago.

Mike Jackson


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative comments
>about their quality and especially prices.
>
>Joe C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
>performance?
> 
>David Spiwak
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
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>
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 13 11:26:15 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:26:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <005701ce4ffe$f909a750$eb1cf5f0$@rr.com>

Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time only
business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!

russ

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Jackson
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 20+
years ago.

Mike Jackson


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative 
>comments about their quality and especially prices.
>
>Joe C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
>and performance?
> 
>David Spiwak
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon May 13 11:30:01 2013
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:30:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
	<9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9Pa5-=coMk-o+o_dWe6pHzZouRL7vGyEuZrT1KmJ6HB3w@mail.gmail.com>

I also run non-detergent 30 weight oil, the old stuff, on an "A" drive box
and have had no gearbox problems for 5 years of track time, shifts good and
pleased.



On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:07 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > See the second article, from June 2005.
> >
> > http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
>
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with
> oil
> that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
> about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon May 13 11:35:38 2013
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:35:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
	<213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <C87FF400-9885-4051-962B-57ECC842F104@yahoo.com>

I just replaced one of their 6500 rpm cams and springs combos. Got to it
before it tore up the rest of the motor.

Ty

Sent from my iPhone



On May 13, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> +1
>
> On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:
>
>> What Bill said.
>>
>> art de armond
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Junk from crooks.
>> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>>> performance?
>>>
>>> David Spiwak
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May 13 11:53:40 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:53:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>

Wow!  

I guess I should be thankful in 35 years, I've never dealt with PAECO.  

Do they kill babies too?

Bill (Damdinger)

PS And then load them on a truck with pitch forks?


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 13 12:39:46 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:39:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Where is PAECO located?

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Junk from crooks.
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon May 13 12:50:37 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 14:50:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E29E1BA9-05F1-4625-B4C0-3DFD9E00FD72@gdhs.com>

Bham Al

Sent from my iPhone

On May 13, 2013, at 2:39 PM, Dennis DeLap <yellow-green at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Where is PAECO located?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
> Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
> To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
> Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From jhouathome at aol.com  Mon May 13 12:55:07 2013
From: jhouathome at aol.com (Jhouathome)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:55:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E280971A-E3C3-455C-9FB5-64C552B02B0D@aol.com>

Birmingham, Alabama. Some of their off the shelf parts are good enough, but
service is spotty and shipping is not reliable.  In 34 seasons of racing I
have never encountered a single happy customer of their machining/engine
building services.  The reputation is "very unreliable", and rude or
non-responsive are bonuses.  There may be happy customers out there, but I
have never met one.
John

Sent from my iPad

On May 13, 2013, at 1:39 PM, Dennis DeLap <yellow-green at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Where is PAECO located?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
> Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
> To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
> Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Mon May 13 13:22:52 2013
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 15:22:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <39a607da.2dd50.13e9f586f5d.Webtop.10@optonline.net>

Did you get enough information and replies to make a sound decision?

Boy, I hope so!




On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 9:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
> and  performance?
>  David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From riverside at southslope.net  Mon May 13 12:42:27 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:42:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 12:53 PM
To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com ; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com ; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Wow!

I guess I should be thankful in 35 years, I've never dealt with PAECO.

Do they kill babies too?

Bill (Damdinger)

PS And then load them on a truck with pitch forks?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13 


From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 13:45:53 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:45:53 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
	<EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <3F4EAFF5A96A4ADBBEF3A05E53A21221@Vista>

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in
business?  Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors.

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of
merchandise has is his reputation.  Lose that and you will not be allowed to
remain in business.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond


From alan at nosbritishparts.com  Mon May 13 13:53:29 2013
From: alan at nosbritishparts.com (Alan ...)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:53:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1368474809.29231.YahooMailNeo@web5806.biz.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

In the mid eighties , one of my employees was running an E-Prod MGB. He
ordered a 'competition' set of brake pads from PAECO at a cost of $40.00/set.
When the pads arrived they were the same stock CEW pads we kept in stock at
$8.00 a set. I got to witness my first 'conniption' . (sp?)
Alan T 
________________________________
 From: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:26 AM
Subject: [Fot]
PAECO engines
 

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about
quality and  
performance?

David Spiwak
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May 13 16:46:14 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 22:46:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1265863195.1622361.1368485174639.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My J type was shifting slow and sometimes not at all and it turned out to be a
sticky high pressure relief valve

was dragging in the bore. I swapped it out with a spare and has
workedB perfect with both 30 wt and 90 wt..

Jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: trmarty at hotmail.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 3:20:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I
tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the
OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was
frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with
it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box,
and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring B to
sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that
has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly,
and the OD worked perfectly.

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a
close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline
oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From cartravel at pobox.com  Mon May 13 16:46:27 2013
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:46:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>

I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's 
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.

I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally 
find that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be 
done.  I am aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to 
release from overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.  
Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the 
guy with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
Larry

On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
>> See the second article, from June 2005.
>>
>> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with oil
> that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
> about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Mon May 13 16:59:46 2013
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:59:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>

Yes, to my eternal dismay. Many years ago I *finally* saved up enough money 
to by a "Real Race Engine." and got it from PAECO -- knowing no better at 
the time. It was a boat anchor I had to live with for years as it was that 
long (a divorce intervening) before I could afford another.

* The engine was for a Mk. 1 Spitfire. The front plate was from a TR4, which 
bolts right on. Key difference: the Spitfire front plate has the motor 
mounts, the TR4's doesn't! Had to disassemble the whole front end and 
reassemble it just to be able to put it in the car!.
* I asked for a stock pan because I already had a baffled pan. Good thing. 
When I took the stock pan off it was full of what looked like layers of 
dried oil residue.
* #1 lifter had a burr in the lifter hole that kept it from going up and 
down. The burr was discovered the first time we tried to drive the car and 
it broke the camshaft almost immediately.
* When I sent it back for repair I specifically told them about the burr. 
When it was returned the burr was still there!
* It was promised in three months. It was delivered in 18 months. When I 
tried to cancel the order they wouldn't let me -- they already had my money 
and refused to give it back.
* They pledged to stand behind their product, so of course they repaired it 
for free on warranty -- but I had to pay the expensive two-way truck 
shipping.
* When they shipped it (at my expense) they rated the weight at 500 pounds, 
double what it really weighed. I had to sue the trucking company to get a 
refund of the shipping overpayment (I don't use that trucker any more 
either).
* "Competition valve springs" were of such poor quality most inner springs 
broke. One piece worked its way down to the oil pump and broke that.
* It was supposed to be a "full race" 13:1 engine. When I had a trusted 
friend rebuild it some years later I asked him to measure the compression 
ratio -- it came out 10.67:1.

What thy lack in ethics they more than compensate for with incompetence. 
Cannot believe they're still in business! In nearly 45 years in this sport, 
I have never dealt with any other business that even comes remotely close to 
this one in its disdain for its customers or its own product.

--Rocky Entriken


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SpiwakD at aol.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 8:26 AM
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines


> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak


From jkhagen at charter.net  Mon May 13 17:19:45 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 19:19:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>

If you want a good motor talk to Dean Johnson former F/P Spitfire 
National Champion.  Finally selling his stuff.  Lots of engines and two 
race cars and a fresh really cool "Macho" [sp]?  replica.  contact dean 
--at  dean at motorscope.net--612-759-6748


On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Spitfire Racing wrote:

> Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time 
> only
> business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!
>
> russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Mike Jackson
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 
> 20+
> years ago.
>
> Mike Jackson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>> Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative 
>> comments about their quality and especially prices.
>>
>> Joe C.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
>> On Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
>> and performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/grandwazoo at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon May 13 17:26:11 2013
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:26:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>
Message-ID: <51917693.6010600@dfn.com>

On 5/13/2013 4:59 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote:
> Yes, to my eternal dismay. Many years ago I *finally* saved up enough 
> money to by a "Real Race Engine." and got it from PAECO -- knowing no 
> better at the time. It was a boat anchor I had to live with for years 
> as it was that long (a divorce intervening) before I could afford 
> another.
>

This is the kind of guy that builds his shop in steel, knowing that one 
day, someone's going to try to burn it down. Thank goodness when I was 
young and stupid, I had no money at all.  Otherwise, I, too, might have 
made the same mistake.  Somewhere, I still have one of his catalogs from 
the mid-`70s or so.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Mon May 13 17:29:29 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 18:29:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just fine in our
gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend Redline MT90 is that
in testing of oils this particular product and also their MTL product
produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the gearbox during
break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I perform.  Some of
the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when warmed up and running
at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 30
weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of using engine oil.
At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I feel that the costs
of the best quality oils are the best value.

As far as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
clutches during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
been burned and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
not having enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
being produced by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
and are not that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
clutches with thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
particular overdrive to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
close so that a minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.  This
results in the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Larry Young
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.

I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally find
that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.  
Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
Larry

On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
>> See the second article, from June 2005.
>>
>> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars 
> with oil that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the 
> factory fill from about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com


From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 13 18:11:06 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:11:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
	<8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>

Steve built my racing j type and the shifting is great both in and out. Has
mtl oil.
On May 13, 2013 4:31 PM, "Steve Yott" <tr4 at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just fine in
> our
> gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend Redline MT90 is
> that
> in testing of oils this particular product and also their MTL product
> produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the gearbox during
> break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I perform.  Some of
> the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when warmed up and running
> at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 30
> weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of using engine oil.
> At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I feel that the costs
> of the best quality oils are the best value.
>
> As far as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
> clutches during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
> been burned and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
> not having enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
> being produced by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
> and are not that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
> clutches with thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
> particular overdrive to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
> close so that a minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.
>  This
> results in the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!
>
> Steve Yott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Young
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
> I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
> available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.
>
> I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally
> find
> that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
> aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
> overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.
> Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
> with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
> Larry
>
> On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
> >> See the second article, from June 2005.
> >>
> >> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> > Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars
> > with oil that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the
> > factory fill from about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
> >
> > -- Randall
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 13 18:41:07 2013
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 20:41:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>
References: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000601ce503b$b95b1610$2c114230$@rr.com>

The original poster of this runs a TR3 and was curious about Paeco. I build my
own (and others) Spitfire engines with great durability and stability at 8K. I
do admit to a number of conversations with Rick Cline and also using his cams
and some design specs.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: jkhagen at charter.net [mailto:jkhagen at charter.net]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 7:20 PM
To: Spitfire Racing
Cc: 'Mike Jackson'; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

If you want a good motor talk to Dean Johnson former F/P Spitfire National
Champion.  Finally selling his stuff.  Lots of engines and two race cars and a
fresh really cool "Macho" [sp]?  replica.  contact dean --at
dean at motorscope.net--612-759-6748


On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Spitfire Racing wrote:

> Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time
> only business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!
>
> russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Mike Jackson
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible
> 20+
> years ago.
>
> Mike Jackson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>> Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative
>> comments about their quality and especially prices.
>>
>> Joe C.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality
>> and performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/grandwazoo at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From britcars at bellsouth.net  Tue May 14 05:32:02 2013
From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 04:32:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
	<8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1368531122.52321.YahooMailNeo@web181703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

One thing I have not seen mentioned is the reason for a "gear" oil. It has
different additives that stop the extremely tight meshing of the gears from
shearing the oil molecules apart. Motor oil does not. I learned this from a
Castrol chemist/rep way back in the late 70s. Gear oil also has anti-foaming
additives. On every street trans I build, overdrive or not, gets gear oil.
________________________________
 From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
<triosan at gmail.com>
To: Steve Yott <tr4 at wi.rr.com> 
Cc: Friends
<fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
trans fluif
  

Steve built my racing j type and the shifting is great both in
and out. Has
mtl oil.
On May 13, 2013 4:31 PM, "Steve Yott" <tr4 at wi.rr.com>
wrote:

> Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just
fine in
> our
> gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend
Redline MT90 is
> that
> in testing of oils this particular product and also
their MTL product
> produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the
gearbox during
> break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I
perform.  Some of
> the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when
warmed up and running
> at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the
same viscosity as 30
> weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of
using engine oil.
> At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I
feel that the costs
> of the best quality oils are the best value.
>
> As far
as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
> clutches
during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
> been burned
and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
> not having
enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
> being produced
by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
> and are not
that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
> clutches with
thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
> particular overdrive
to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
> close so that a
minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.
>  This
> results in
the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!
>
> Steve Yott
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Young
> Sent: Monday,
May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
> I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
>
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.
>
>
I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally
> find
> that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
>
aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
>
overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.
> Redline oil seems to
help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
> with the experience on
this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
> Larry
>
> On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall
wrote:
> >> See the second article, from June 2005.
> >>
> >>
http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> > Then consider how absurd
it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars
> > with oil that would damage them
instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the
> > factory fill from about 1960 to the end
of the TR6 run.
> >
> > -- Randall
> >
_______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >
http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
>
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com/
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com/
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
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_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com/

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue May 14 07:50:56 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 09:50:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Cap Side Seals
Message-ID: <BLU168-W9628355ACCFDFFAD29B39EBAA10@phx.gbl>

The consensus is that I should not use the trim to fit cork strip that came
with my Payen gasket set but should use the pound in place felt rope type
product for the sides of the rear main cap on a TR3/4 block. I have contacted
Ted, TRF, Moss, BPNW. None of them have it. Since this appears to be what all
you folks use on your builds, where the heck can I get my hands on the stuff?
Finally finished up the Spitfire build and moved over to the TR4 and have hit
the brakes.

Thanks,
Marty


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue May 14 09:03:13 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 10:03:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8885E1B5BDB54705A02FE72451051E26@rileyPC>

Lots of diverse responses.   I am still pretty fuzzy on the theory end.
Ring flutter?  Does this really happen?   How does the wider 2nd ring
gap prevent it?   What is the downside of trapping pressure between
the rings if this really happen;   I cannot see there being much pressure
trapped there if the top ring is working.
I checked some new in the box rings from two different manufacturers
and there was no mention of special gap for ring 2.

art de armond

From: fubog1
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen



-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; FOT
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question






     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue May 14 09:55:45 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:55:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 main cap seal
Message-ID: <BLU168-W13187ABFC0DD3938E86C65ABAA10@phx.gbl>

Problem now solved. Thanks folks.

Marty


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue May 14 10:25:25 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:25:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>

Kind of related,   do any of you use shims to fill some of
the space behind the top ring ?

art de armond

From: fubog1
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen



-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; FOT
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question






     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 14 14:30:33 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:30:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
	<8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <02B7455C-1D27-4D13-920B-F74B5C5E816B@gdhs.com>

I've heard some drill very small holes in the top ring grove to apply pressure
against the cyl wall. Anyone heard of this?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 12:25 PM, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> Kind of related,   do any of you use shims to fill some of
> the space behind the top ring ?
>
> art de armond
>
> From: fubog1
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
> To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
> Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was
to
> prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
> Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
> Glen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
> To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>;
FOT
> <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
>
>
>
>
>
>     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than
the
> top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
> flutter or lifting.
> That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
> manufacture think different. I would go my what
> your piston manufacture says.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 13:44:32 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
	<EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <EF80DE13049A484087135935C7AF3DDD@Vista>

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in
business?  Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors.

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of
merchandise has is his reputation.  Lose that and you will not be allowed to
remain in business.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond


From jamesnorlin at gmail.com  Tue May 14 21:33:41 2013
From: jamesnorlin at gmail.com (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:33:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
Message-ID: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>

I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the 
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs.  Do I 
hear a second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com


From jamesnorlin at gmail.com  Tue May 14 21:43:41 2013
From: jamesnorlin at gmail.com (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:43:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] A lap of PIR
Message-ID: <5193046D.40805@gmail.com>

A while back, I think I mentioned that I was writing articles for our 
local Triumph Club newsletter.  Last month, I wrote a brief history of 
Portland International Raceway.  This month, the column is a narrated 
description of a hot lap of the track in our Spitfire.  It includes a 
link to a short Youtube Video as follows:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbYlUFEwlsM

Disclaimer:The racing line that I describe may be different that the one 
you should use depending upon your car and the way it is prepared.For 
example, our Spitfire's suspension is much stiffer and lower than stock 
but even so we have a tendency to lift the inner /rear/ tire during hard 
cornering.To prevent that tire from spinning, we run a welded, solid 
differential, which makes the car tend to understeer unless driven very 
hard.An MG Midget or AH Sprite on the other hand, tends to lift the 
inner /front/ wheel during hard cornering.The racing line that we take 
through turns 4 to 7 compared with the Spridgets is significantly different.


Jim


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed May 15 14:49:06 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 20:49:06 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
References: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B777F@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Second!

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 10:34 PM
To: FOT; norlin.patty at gmail.com
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the Spit
as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs.  Do I hear a
second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed May 15 15:39:54 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 21:39:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <02B7455C-1D27-4D13-920B-F74B5C5E816B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <29499046.1691211.1368653994824.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes,

That's gas porting, mine have them. The drag racers have the gas ports drilled
from the top.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: "<riverside at southslope.net>" <riverside at southslope.net>
Cc: "<fot at autox.team.net>" <fot at autox.team.net>, "fubog1" <fubog1 at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 2:30:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

I've heard some drill very small holes in the top ring grove to apply pressure
against the cyl wall. Anyone heard of this?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 12:25 PM, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> Kind of related, B  do any of you use shims to fill some of
> the space behind the top ring ?
>
> art de armond
>
> From: fubog1
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
> To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
> Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was
to
> prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
> Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
> Glen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
> To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>;
FOT
> <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
>
>
>
>
>
> B  B  Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than
the
> top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
> flutter or lifting.
> That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet. B Maybe some piston
> manufacture think different. I would go my what
> your piston manufacture says.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed May 15 20:44:02 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 19:44:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
References: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e868d68e-da24-4b21-b4a7-0f5ecf88410e@email.android.com>

She is faster than me.  I second it. The Norlin's are great Triumph
ambassadors.
Mike Mehl

Sent from my Kindle Fire



_____________________________________________
From: Jim Norlin <jamesnorlin at gmail.com>
Sent: Tue May 14 20:33:41 PDT 2013
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>, norlin.patty at gmail.com
Subject: [Fot] Nomination


I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs. Do I
hear a second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com
_____________________________________________

fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com


From haretoday at comcast.net  Thu May 16 10:25:55 2013
From: haretoday at comcast.net (haretoday at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 16:25:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <e868d68e-da24-4b21-b4a7-0f5ecf88410e@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <624479607.1860626.1368721555712.JavaMail.root@sz0138a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes, Yes....a great person--on the track and in the paddock! 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> 
To: "Jim Norlin" <jamesnorlin at gmail.com>, "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>, "norlin patty" <norlin.patty at gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:44:02 PM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination 

She is faster than me. I second it. The Norlin's are great Triumph 
ambassadors. 
Mike Mehl 

Sent from my Kindle Fire 



_____________________________________________ 
From: Jim Norlin <jamesnorlin at gmail.com> 
Sent: Tue May 14 20:33:41 PDT 2013 
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>, norlin.patty at gmail.com 
Subject: [Fot] Nomination 


I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the 
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs. Do I 
hear a second? 

Her e-mail is 

norlin.patty at gmail.com 
_____________________________________________ 

fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/haretoday at comcast.net 


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 15 21:42:27 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 03:42:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EF80DE13049A484087135935C7AF3DDD@Vista>
Message-ID: <1284922598.1962642.1368675747440.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Perhaps there is a trust fund or some other situation to help keep it afloat and it gives the kid something to do, even when they aren't kids anymore. I know of a couple of these type of arrangements bad reputation and all. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net> 
To: riverside at southslope.net, BillDentin at aol.com, tylerpthompson at yahoo.com, bownes at seiri.com 
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com, fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 12:44:32 PM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines 

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in 
business? Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily 
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors. 

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of 
merchandise has is his reputation. Lose that and you will not be allowed to 
remain in business. 

Joe C. 

-----Original Message----- 
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM 
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com 
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines 

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were 
total crap. So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way. 

art de armond 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net 


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Thu May 16 16:47:30 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 15:47:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
Message-ID: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html
 
I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver. 
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans. 
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could party
all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag video in
the link.
 
Mike Mehl #46 TR4


From billdentin at aol.com  Thu May 16 19:14:44 2013
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 21:14:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
In-Reply-To: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D020B30CA8032F-20BC-3227C@webmail-d225.sysops.aol.com>

He's a BADGER.

Bill Dentinger








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>; mdmehl <mdmehl at gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, May 16, 2013 5:47 pm
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle


http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html

I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver.
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans.
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could
party
all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag video
in
the link.

Mike Mehl #46 TR4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com


From gp89 at charter.net  Thu May 16 21:55:52 2013
From: gp89 at charter.net (Jeff Senty)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 23:55:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
Message-ID: <3c0ba403.7dce4b.13eb0a12c9d.Webtop.46@charter.net>

  Years ago, after he finished a race near Madison, a friend and I had 
the pleasure of tipping a few cold ones with Dick. He was a lot of fun. 
Loved talking to his fans.
Jeff Senty


On Thu, May 16, 2013 at 5:47 PM, Mike Mehl wrote:

> 
> http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
> car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html
>  I am sure some of you have
> seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible 
> driver. The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the 
> Daytona 500 back
> when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about 
> fans. He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each 
> night during
> speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very 
> entertaining
> evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing. 
> He said
> if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours 
> and if
> you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You 
> could party
> all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag 
> video in
> the link.
>  Mike Mehl #46 TR4
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gp89 at charter.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri May 17 01:36:15 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 09:36:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
In-Reply-To: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001201ce52d1$379383e0$a6ba8ba0$@com>

I only heard of Cole Trickle

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Mike Mehl
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Mai 2013 00:47
An: Triumph Friends of; mdmehl at gmail.com
Betreff: [Fot] Dick Trickle

http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-na
s
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html

I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver.
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans.
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could
party all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag
video in the link.

Mike Mehl #46 TR4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From billsohl at optonline.net  Sun May 19 16:53:43 2013
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 18:53:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive - 1988 One-Lap
Message-ID: <508E3FBFD4E5408EB761048EE678DA05@SohlPC>

Back in 1988, Charles Runyan and I co-drove the TRF TR-250 a total of 8300
 miles...over an 8 day time frame.  Except for one hotel stay about the 4th
 night, we literally
 were almost 100% on the road.  We finished 15th out of 54 entrants.

 Cheers,
 Bill Sohl

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Don TR" <58tr3a at videotron.ca>
> To: "'Mike Jankowski'" <mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com>; "'robert bownes'" 
> <bownes at seiri.com>
> Cc: "'FOT'" <FOT at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 6:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Longest Drive
>
>
>> As for the longest drive in my 1958 TR3A which I bought brand new in May,
>> 1958, I drove a total of 7300 "touring" miles from Montreal to VTR in
>> Portland Oregon in 2000 and then back home.
>>
>> Back about 1960 to 1963, I rallied my TR3A extensively and it was nothing
>> unusual to have a 500 or 600 mile rally.  Most was navigational, but 
>> during
>> the night sections, we had some spirited speeds to try to meet - not to 
>> be
>> late at the next control.
>>
>> Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
>> Montreal, Canada
>>
>> PS - I have driven "TRusty" over 110,000 miles since I did the full
>> restoration from 1987 to 1990.  In 2007, VTR gave me 384 points out of 
>> 400
>> in the judged concourse after having driven 94,000 miles since it was
>> restored.
>> --------- 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 20 07:44:41 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 08:44:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] : KASTNER CUP  2013  IN SEPTEMBER. Osthoff Resevations
References: <2F3096C0-79EC-4F4E-889C-0D0295A3EC60@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20FE7E34-E889-48D4-BA5C-7692749EC37F@cs.com>

> FOT
>
> We have exceeded our contracted rooms, but they continue accept Reservation
from us.
>
> Meeting with Angela on Friday says that there are 30 rooms left that are
allocated to Groups.
>
> I am not going to contract for additional rooms and suites, so govern
yourself accordingly.
>
> This the the perfect place to be and the suites are very cost effective with
our discount and when costs are shared.
>
> This is where it all happens when you are not at the track.  Banquet, old
course reenactment, Gather on the Green.
>
> See Angela's note below.
>
> Regards.
> Joe A
> Sent from my iPad
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: Angela Koran <akoran at osthoff.com>
>> Date: May 17, 2013, 3:19:40 PM CDT
>> To: 'Joe Alexander' <n197tr4 at cs.com>
>> Subject: RE: KASTNER CUP  2013  IN SEPTEMBER
>>
>> Good Afternoon Joe,
>>
>> It was nice seeing you again this morning. Joe, I wanted to let you know I
got a call from my Rooms Director this morning. Leisure reservations are
starting to increase over that race weekend. We are only allowed so many group
rooms to sell verses leisure rooms each night. So as of now we are down to 30
group rooms per night over the dates you are here. It would really be
advantageous to add rooms to your block if you know they will be needed. Let
me know what you find out from the other club ASAP and I can create an
addendum for those rooms. As rooms continue to sell on the leisure side and
other sales managers sell group rooms, the inventory will continue to dwindle
and additional rooms will not be available at the contracted rate if an
addendum is not created. I just wanted to give you a heads up so you are
educated and can make a decision from there. Please let me know if you have
questions Joe. Thank you for your time and have a great weekend!
>>
>> Angela Koran
>> Sales Manager
>> 101 Osthoff Avenue
>> Elkhart Lake, WI 53020
>> 920.876.5815 direct
>> 920.876.2249 fax
>> akoran at osthoff.com
>> www.osthoffmeetings.com
>> Voted "2012 Best Wisconsin Lakeshore Resort" by Wisconsin Meetings
Magazine.
>>
>>
>>
>> -----


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon May 20 08:08:05 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 10:08:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SP
Message-ID: <56BFEC29B1AB46D998D0C373832CD462@gdhs.local>

How did it go at Summit Point this past weekend?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Mon May 20 12:20:21 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 14:20:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SP
References: <56BFEC29B1AB46D998D0C373832CD462@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <274D8DF202CB4169A427FE71FE27CBB7@TRIUMPH.local>

Awesome weekend at Summit Point for Triumphs. The track was is great form, 
the weather cooperated better than most spring race weekends in the 
mountains of West Virginia. Leo Oddi was at the top Triumph by time I think, 
and I was again blown away by how fast my car goes without all those 
expensive billet and forged bottom end bits.

The only bad part of the weekend is nobody walked up and bought my car! I 
guess I have to run it at Mosport next month. Bummer!

Also worth noting, the weekend was Mike Moore's first outing in his TR4. He 
attended the VRG Drivers School, and ran the weekend with a very large run 
group. Both car and driver did really great. Mark and I watched his feature 
race on Saturday, Mike had a great run with a bunch of MG's. We stopped by 
his paddock space after the run to see how big the grin on his face was. 
Mike's was beaming, and his whole family was there and caught in the moment. 
I don't know who was more excited! It was very, very cool...

Way to go Mike, welcome to the madness! We are glad to have you.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Subject: [Fot] SP


> How did it go at Summit Point this past weekend? 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 20 12:29:27 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 13:29:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] IPO.  INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING.  REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
Message-ID: <82F80BBC-61E8-486E-B320-F31B7C39BD5F@cs.com>

Sean has 10 rear mounts in process with his final design.

If you would like to reserve one, please respond.

We have an isometric view of the mechanical parts and photos of finished
parts.

It is a HD version of the existing OEM part, except it utilizes 40 durometer
urethane instead of rubber of questionable value.

It will be particularly effective in TRs with the added weight of an O.D.
unit, but in any case it will be the last rear mount you ever replace.

We have used this HD rear mount in TR4 #197 for the past two years.

Allow two weeks for delivery. Sean is having the mechanical parts plated, and
will start to pour in custom production mold. Intro cost is $50.00.

We will use the FOT response to plan for the next production run.

Thanks,  Joe A


From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon May 20 19:59:34 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 01:59:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Ian Priestly
Message-ID: <680222188.270651.1369101574070.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



Anyone on the list buy an overdrive from Ian Priestly (New Zealand). He occasionally offer conversion kits on Ebay. 



Ed Woods 


From mmoore at wave1.net  Tue May 21 08:30:53 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:30:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue May 21 08:49:57 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:49:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>

The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is the
one to compare.
If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
reason the bottle is gold colored!
However, have never boiled the fluid again.

On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 21 09:11:21 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue May 21 09:27:53 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:27:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.243.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Castrol SRF for me too.

Tony Drews

At 10:11 AM 5/21/2013, John Hasty wrote:
>We use  SRF.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> > different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
>the
> > one to compare.
> > If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> > In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> > the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> > mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> > reason the bottle is gold colored!
> > However, have never boiled the fluid again.
> >
> > On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
> >
> > What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael T. Moore, CPA
> >
> > 2007 West 32nd Street
> >
> > Erie, PA 16508
> >
> >
> >
> > Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
> >
> > Fax:        814-864-7383


From dforeman at fooddude.com  Tue May 21 09:31:43 2013
From: dforeman at fooddude.com (dforeman at fooddude.com)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 15:31:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>

Castrol 
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 
To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From horizonracing at msn.com  Tue May 21 10:12:37 2013
From: horizonracing at msn.com (horizonracing)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:12:37 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <BAY403-EAS42250C70F8B5E5C239941A6B2A80@phx.gbl>

AP 551 on all of my cars . Compatible with girling/lockhead seals. I,ve had motul turn some rubber to mush .

My 2 cents


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> 
Date: 05/21/2013  8:28 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid 
 
Castrol SRF for me too.

Tony Drews

At 10:11 AM 5/21/2013, John Hasty wrote:
>We useB  SRF.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> > different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.B  The "wet" point is
>the
> > one to compare.
> > If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> > In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> > the brakes get hot.B  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> > mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.B  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> > reason the bottle is gold colored!
> > However, have never boiled the fluid again.
> >
> > On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
> >
> > What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael T. Moore, CPA
> >
> > 2007 West 32nd Street
> >
> > Erie, PA 16508
> >
> >
> >
> > Phone: 814-868-4831B  ext 103
> >
> > Fax:B B B B B B B  814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Tue May 21 10:46:08 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:46:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <484F5DE6-735B-444C-81E2-C37E72502260@gmail.com>

Any brand of DOT 5.1 that I can find (no, that's not silicone fluid in case
anyone's wondering).

Duncan
1952 Morgan Plus 4 (4-wheel drum brakes)
Red #6


On May 21, 2013, at 9:49 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From joeg at neb.rr.com  Tue May 21 07:15:24 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 08:15:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>

Friends,

I just got back from the Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing event at High Plains
Raceway in Colorado.  Went out with a local guy who wheels a Bugeye Sprite.
I'll post a link to his race videos when he finishes the production.  You'll
want to "ride along" on a few circuits of that track, as it is a real jewel
- see below.  I'll also work on getting my photos put up, and will post a
link to those as soon as I finish.  There were about a hundred different
cars at the event - from a McLaren CanAm car to a nearly stock MGA running
Historic Class.

I had a great time over the weekend.  They needed course workers to help man
some stations on the track because several regular workers were at The
Circuit Of The Americas in Austin, TX for a V8 Supercars event.  Others were
called off to safety training at Pikes Peak to get ready for the annual hill
climb there.  They were almost forced to shorten the course, which would
have been a real shame as two really cool track sections would have been
lost. Another friend from our travelling party and I ended up volunteering
and they managed to find enough other workers to keep the entire track open
for racing.

My buddy in the Sprite has been telling me how much he liked the track at
HPR and I now understand why.  It's an outstanding facility for the kind of
racing I want to do.   Unlike the two pretty flat tracks closer to me (MAM
near Council Bluffs, Iowa and MPH in Hastings, Nebraska), it has elevation
changes of up to 70 feet in some sections. There seemed to be passing
opportunities almost everywhere I looked, blind apexes in a couple spots, a
couple decreasing radius corners, some fast sweepers, a corkscrew, some nice
"esses", and a couple nice long straight sections.  The track seemed like it
would be a challenge, punishing mistakes but rewarding when attacked
properly.  I only got to ride along on three laps during one lunch break,
but I felt there were sections of the track that flowed very nicely. I
particularly liked the view downhill on what they call "To Hell On A
Bobsled" (corners 9a, 9b and 10).

I REALLY enjoyed my time at Turn 4 - the end of the longest straight
section.  I got to see the cars at speed up close and saw quite a bit of
racing action.  The racing was aggressive, but efforts were made to keep
everything "in the vintage spirit".  I saw more than one incident that in
SCCA (Sports Car Crashing Association"?) would have resulted in contact.
These resulted in a couple "off track excursions" when the overtaking driver
avoided contact by bailing out.  I'm not completely sure, but I don't think
there was any "metal to metal" all weekend.  Working allowed me a great
opportunity to see what it takes behind the scenes to put on a good event,
and gave me an appreciation for the work done by the many volunteers.  I was
impressed by the nearly "professional" level of organization at the event
and how everyone still managed to be friendly and outgoing and generous with
information.

My only regret was that I didn't manage to spend much time with the FOT
guys.  With trying to fix an ignition problem on the Bugeye Saturday night,
and working Turn 4 all day Sunday, I just didn't have the time to do
everything.  I wanted to spend some time hunting down Spitfire
owners/drivers/wrenches so I could pick their brains and managed to figure
some things out that should help me with my Spitfires.  I did get to meet
Kevin Lynch, "Too Damn Funky" Jim Grace, Mark Eden and son Christian, and we
paddocked next to Dan Forgey and "The Black Pearl" - his beautiful black
TR4. I missed getting into Race Control to meet Bill Rosenbach.  I also
didn't get race results yet, so hope to see a report from one of those guys
about how the FOT upheld it's honor over the weekend.

We started finalizing plans we for finishing my old SCCA Spitfire on the way
home, and it sounds like we might even get another car or two started for
some other guys.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue May 21 09:52:13 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:52:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
	<1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <3359D383-5468-4E0C-8CCD-1FED1F9DD66E@austin.rr.com>

I use ATE Super Blue. They also make an Amber version which is compatible and
is supposed to allow you to have 100 certainty when you flush out old fluid.
I'm still on the blue and I like it but the Castrol SRF out specs it. Like I
do with VR1 racing oil and GL4 gear oil, I like to do fluid changes often and
therefore I stay away from higher priced synthetics. ATE is a good fluid for
flushers like me!

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:31 AM, dforeman at fooddude.com wrote:

> Castrol
>>>>> Sent via Wireless<<<<
> David Foreman
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21
> To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid
>
> We use  SRF.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
>> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
> the
>> one to compare.
>> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
>> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as
yours,
>> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
>> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
>> reason the bottle is gold colored!
>> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>>
>> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>> Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dforeman at fooddude.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue May 21 12:40:08 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 14:40:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
	<001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <7f3b50de50cc6e3bbd0af2769372f5dd.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

Hey Joe,

Very nice write-up, thanks.  Yeah, working the corners
is not only great fun, but the second best spectator
seat in the house.  This makes me miss my days as a
corner worker with RMVR (back in the '80's - now I
feel old!).

John

On Tue, May 21, 2013 9:15 am, Joe Guinan wrote:
> Friends,

<Snip>

> I had a great time over the weekend.  They needed course workers to help
> man
> some stations on the track because several regular workers were at The
> Circuit Of The Americas in Austin, TX for a V8 Supercars event.  Others
> were
> called off to safety training at Pikes Peak to get ready for the annual
> hill
> climb there.  They were almost forced to shorten the course, which would
> have been a real shame as two really cool track sections would have been
> lost. Another friend from our travelling party and I ended up volunteering
> and they managed to find enough other workers to keep the entire track
> open
> for racing.

<Snip>


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Tue May 21 13:07:05 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:07:05 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202BD32A@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Castrol LMA.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Mike Moore
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:31 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue May 21 15:55:22 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 07:55:22 +1000
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>

Joe

i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
urethane.

we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
totally solved the mount problems

whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
mount.

thanks

Terry


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 21 16:48:33 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 17:48:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>

I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
understood his first two paragraphs.

I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand what
he was asking.

I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.

We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the expectation
that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.

It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and frame
isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be looking
forward to his reply.

Any other points of discussion?

Joe A
Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:

> Joe
>
> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
> urethane.
>
> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
> totally solved the mount problems
>
> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
> mount.
>
> thanks
>
> Terry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue May 21 17:40:28 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 09:40:28 +1000
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>

joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
mount.

design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).

mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
doing tests on various designs.

good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop

Terry





On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I understood his first two paragraphs.
>
> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand what he was asking.
>
> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>
> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>
> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be looking forward to his reply.
>
> Any other points of discussion?
>
> Joe A
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>
>> Joe
>>
>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>> urethane.
>>
>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>> totally solved the mount problems
>>
>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>> mount.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Terry
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 21 18:06:33 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:06:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>

Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus the
ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
problem.

The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.

So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was offered
and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next run.

If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a computer
isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.

Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had no
prior knowledge of.

Best Regards,

Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!

Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:

> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
> mount.
>
> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>
> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
> doing tests on various designs.
>
> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>
> Terry
>
>
>
>
>
> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
understood his first two paragraphs.
>>
>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand
what he was asking.
>>
>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>
>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>
>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
looking forward to his reply.
>>
>> Any other points of discussion?
>>
>> Joe A
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>> urethane.
>>>
>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>
>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>> mount.
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>> Terry
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From igofaster at att.net  Tue May 21 20:47:09 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
	<1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <1369190829.38629.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I'm using Motol...   Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: "dforeman at fooddude.com" <dforeman at fooddude.com>
To: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; Scott Janzen 
<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, May 21, 2013 10:32:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

Castrol 
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 
To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
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>
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>
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Wed May 22 00:08:32 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 23:08:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>

Something tells me it will be better than my usual practice of welding the
plates together. I haven't noticed what Tony Garmey has done for mounts, but
Peyote used to be solid mounts in all three corners. I suspect Tony tossed
that away long ago.

On May 21, 2013, at 5:06 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus
the
> ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
> problem.
>
> The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.
>
> So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was offered
> and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next
run.
>
> If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a
computer
> isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.
>
> Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had
no
> prior knowledge of.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>
>> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
>> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
>> mount.
>>
>> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
>> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
>> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
>> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
>> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>>
>> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
>> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
>> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
>> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
>> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
>> doing tests on various designs.
>>
>> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>>
>> Terry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
> understood his first two paragraphs.
>>>
>>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand
> what he was asking.
>>>
>>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>>
>>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
> expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>>
>>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
> frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
> looking forward to his reply.
>>>
>>> Any other points of discussion?
>>>
>>> Joe A
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Joe
>>>>
>>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>>> urethane.
>>>>
>>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>>
>>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>>> mount.
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>>>
>>>> Terry
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Wed May 22 04:45:41 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:45:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>

I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough 
heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .

I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid


> What's the fluid of choice for you guys? 


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 05:08:35 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:08:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <A531CBA9-ACFE-473B-BC38-23A0FAAFF57B@austin.rr.com>

I used to do the exact same procedure using Castrol LMA but the Lemons TR6
experience taught me that you can boil it after a few hours in the Texas
summer heat. The better fluids absorb less moisture and handle the heat
better. At $20 a pint instead of $7 the ATE is good insurance and I get to
skip a few blessings here and there.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 5:45 AM, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

> I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an
> issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto
> parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough
> heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .
>
> I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends
> bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all


From Janzen at REcatalyst.com  Wed May 22 06:59:15 2013
From: Janzen at REcatalyst.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 08:59:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
Message-ID: <299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>

I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side, the
second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
 I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.

I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Wed May 22 06:59:40 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 08:59:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <C4FAA592BCCC45D198370831791DAEBD@hpd530>

I use the same, Henry. Never had a problem.
Mike: glad you had fun at SP; wish  I could have been there.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid


>I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
>issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
>parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get 
>enough heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. 
>.
>
> I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
> bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
> To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
> Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
>
>
>> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed May 22 07:50:19 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 09:50:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
Message-ID: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Janzen at REcatalyst.com writes:


> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one 
> side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
> I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
> 
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> 

All good points based on my experience.  One time I lost a trailer wheel 
towing through Plymouth, Wisconsin on the way to Road America.  I must have 
traveled a good mile and one half with only one wheel on the outside.  Some 
'good soul' saw me loose it, chased it, and then chased me to return it.  You 
can't buy that kind of roadside help.  It either comes for nothing, or you 
don't get it.  I replaced both tires on that side of the trailer, and since 
the stud holes were hogged out, I had to replace the wheel too.  Then last 
year, my wife and I had a blowout in the mountains coming back from the Mitty. 
 We're getting a little long in the tooth for changing tires on a loaded 
trailer, especially in the mountains with little or no pull off area.  
Fortunately it was on the inside, I was able to ease it to an area that had minimal 
adjacent room to pull off.  The rig was off the road, somewhat level, but 
we were working from a pretty steep incline.  The biggest problem was my 
aluminum jack had difficulty lifting the loaded trailer high enough to get the 
tire off the road.  It took a jack stand, and taking several new bites, but 
we finally got it changed.  We then got off at the next exit where we were 
able to replace both tires on that side.  Trailer tires is not a good place to 
try to 'save money'.  Buy good ones, over rated for the job.

Bob Wismer uses a single axle trailer, has had some blowout adventures, and 
now buys new trailer tires every 4 years regardless of tread depth or 
appearance.

Bill Dentinger


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed May 22 08:02:03 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:02:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
References: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>

After traveling to races for some 27 years and having more "tire adventures"
than I ever wanted and hearing of a few motorhome episodes others had where
tires failed and tore up the coach itself, I took the advice of a good
friend Mack McCormick and installed a tire monitoring system. It was pretty
inexpensive; wireless and simple to install and program. The peace of mind
is great and I no longer am wondering if a tire is going bad when a weird
road surface causes strange noises. The system monitors temperatures and
pressures and will also alarm if there's a rapid air loss, giving the driver
an advance notice. I have no financial connection with these folks. There
are other systems also out there. It is not expensive. 

http://www.tsttruck.com/Home_Page.html

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:50 AM
To: Janzen at REcatalyst.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info

In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
Janzen at REcatalyst.com writes:


> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one 
> side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
> I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
> 
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> 

All good points based on my experience.  One time I lost a trailer wheel 
towing through Plymouth, Wisconsin on the way to Road America.  I must have 
traveled a good mile and one half with only one wheel on the outside.  Some 
'good soul' saw me loose it, chased it, and then chased me to return it.
You 
can't buy that kind of roadside help.  It either comes for nothing, or you 
don't get it.  I replaced both tires on that side of the trailer, and since 
the stud holes were hogged out, I had to replace the wheel too.  Then last 
year, my wife and I had a blowout in the mountains coming back from the
Mitty. 
 We're getting a little long in the tooth for changing tires on a loaded 
trailer, especially in the mountains with little or no pull off area.  
Fortunately it was on the inside, I was able to ease it to an area that had
minimal 
adjacent room to pull off.  The rig was off the road, somewhat level, but 
we were working from a pretty steep incline.  The biggest problem was my 
aluminum jack had difficulty lifting the loaded trailer high enough to get
the 
tire off the road.  It took a jack stand, and taking several new bites, but 
we finally got it changed.  We then got off at the next exit where we were 
able to replace both tires on that side.  Trailer tires is not a good place
to 
try to 'save money'.  Buy good ones, over rated for the job.

Bob Wismer uses a single axle trailer, has had some blowout adventures, and 
now buys new trailer tires every 4 years regardless of tread depth or 
appearance.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Wed May 22 11:34:51 2013
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:34:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
Message-ID: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>

We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race 
at Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section 
of I5.  A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - 
I never felt or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it 
off, the windshield wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the 
freeway off ramp.  Put on my spare and then found a replacement wheel 
and tire to carry with me as a spare.  I replaced all four of the 
remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my race tire dealer bring 
them to the track which was very convenient.

On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>   I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 05:42:29 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:42:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
	<B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>

I have used the TRF HD tranny mounts with the cavity filled with automotive
silicone successfully now for years. Welded mounts used with racing engine
mounts caused float bowl issues for me. The silicone acts like the gel in
running shoes, absorbs a lot of harmonics.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 1:08 AM, Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote:

> Something tells me it will be better than my usual practice of welding the
> plates together. I haven't noticed what Tony Garmey has done for mounts,
but
> Peyote used to be solid mounts in all three corners. I suspect Tony tossed
> that away long ago.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 5:06 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus
> the
>> ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
>> problem.
>>
>> The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.
>>
>> So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was
offered
>> and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next
> run.
>>
>> If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a
> computer
>> isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.
>>
>> Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had
> no
>> prior knowledge of.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
>> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>
>>> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
>>> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
>>> mount.
>>>
>>> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
>>> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
>>> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
>>> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
>>> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>>>
>>> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
>>> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
>>> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
>>> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
>>> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
>>> doing tests on various designs.
>>>
>>> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>>>
>>> Terry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
>> understood his first two paragraphs.
>>>>
>>>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't
understand
>> what he was asking.
>>>>
>>>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>>>
>>>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
>> expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>>>
>>>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
>> frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
>> looking forward to his reply.
>>>>
>>>> Any other points of discussion?
>>>>
>>>> Joe A
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
>> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Joe
>>>>>
>>>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>>>> urethane.
>>>>>
>>>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>>>
>>>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>>>> mount.
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> Terry
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 11:55:48 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 12:55:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>
References: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
	<003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <6F3C407A-5B65-4032-985A-116227D7CB0F@austin.rr.com>

Don't forget that truck tire shops offer road service. I learned this a couple
of years ago, the hard way.

I too have moved to the 4 year method after losing a tire on the 28 ft, 2 car,
10K rig. After swapping a spare I took it to a truck tire shop and had them
replace the blown out tire and headed off toward the track. I stopped for
lunch only to catch z second "perfectly good" tire separating treads. I called
the truck tire company and they set me up with road service and I had the
other three replaced.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 9:02 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> After traveling to races for some 27 years and having more "tire
adventures"
> than I ever wanted and hearing of a few motorhome episodes others had where
> tires failed and tore up the coach itself, I took the advice of a good
> friend Mack McCormick and installed a tire monitoring system. It was pretty
> inexpensive; wireless and simple to install and program. The peace of mind
> is great and I no longer am wondering if a tire is going bad when a weird
> road surface causes strange noises. The system monitors temperatures and
> pressures and will also alarm if there's a rapid air loss, giving the
driver
> an advance notice. I have no financial connection with these folks. There
> are other systems also out there. It is not expensive.
>
> http://www.tsttruck.com/Home_Page.html
>
> Russ Moore
> Spitfire #49
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:50 AM
> To: Janzen at REcatalyst.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
>
> In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
> Janzen at REcatalyst.com w


From ponobill at gmail.com  Wed May 22 12:41:43 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 11:41:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
	<519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <80E7F803-E87B-4E61-BE71-9DE2BFE6801B@bnj.com>

One thing that makes trailer tires particularly prone to punctures is that
your truck drive wheels stand up nails. If your tire stands up nails often
enough your trailer will find one that's standing just as it runs over it.
It's the same reason you get nails in your back tires and not in your front.
The cure is the same as we used to do ot motorcycles--put a stiff flap in
front of the tires to knock the nails back down. On bikes it changed flats
from common to never.


On May 22, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Jim Norlin <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
wrote:

> We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race at
Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section of I5.
A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - I never felt
or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it off, the windshield
wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the freeway off ramp.  Put on my
spare and then found a replacement wheel and tire to carry with me as a spare.
I replaced all four of the remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my
race tire dealer bring them to the track which was very convenient.
>
> On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side,
the
>> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
>> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>>  I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
>> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
>> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
>> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>>
>> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From walt at hot-tr6.com  Wed May 22 12:53:35 2013
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 12:53:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 heater fan motor
Message-ID: <000001ce571d$aa4611f0$fed235d0$@hot-tr6.com>

I need a working heater fan motor for a 1973 Triumph TR6 restoration I am
working on. If any FOT member has one they can sell me please contact me
directly.

Thank You,

Walter Hollowell

Albuquerque, New Mexico

Ph 505 362-4350


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May 22 13:37:20 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 15:37:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup Shirts and Drivers
Message-ID: <BLU168-W113440C9A913549BAAD97A1BAA90@phx.gbl>

Third to last call.  If you are planning on competing in the Kastner Cup event
at Road America in September and have not given me your name and car info so I
can include you on the back of the shirt you might want to do so. You can
always notify me at "last call" in July and tell me to remove your info if you
decide you wont be making it. We currently have a little over 60 drivers
planning on attending. I will be sending a list of names for placement on the
FOT site in the near future. Also, if you are going to order shirts and have
not done so you should get that done. For the shirt order I will need your
name and address, how many of what size shirts you want, whether you want the
shirts mailed to you or if you will be picking them up at the track. Again,
for payment, after I place the order in July you will need to contact Ted S.
and make arrangements to pay him directly. OK, now read the shirt order info
again as there is always questions on this. :) If you have done the above you
would have received a confirmation email from me at that time so no need to
resend. There are 116 shirts on order so far. All shirts are pre-order.

Thanks,


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Wed May 22 14:14:16 2013
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (J. Wagner)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:14:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
	<B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
	<41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CFC60013-6650-4038-8615-9F878899BE1E@greenheart.com>

> I like Bob's idea of injecting the void with silicone.
>
> On my street TR4A, many years ago, I trimmed and punched holes in piece of
brass shim stock that I put between the rear trans mount and tranny like a
gasket, but left a few inches of material hanging out along the front edge
that I strategically bent down to create an oil shield from the oil the
inevitably makes its way through the drain hole just below the clutch and
whatever other sources of motor oil that makes its way to this area.  It has
kept my rear mount bone dry for years.   I believe this has increased the life
of the mount quite significantly by keeping the degrading properties of oil
off the natural rubber.  Before this, it seems like I replaced a lot of mounts
on various Triumphs I have owned not so much from dry-cracking as much as
simply dissolving!
> Food for thought.
>
> I'm very curious to hear more about Joe's new rear mount.
>
> --Justin
>
> On May 22, 2013, at 4:42 AM, Bob Kramer <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> I have used the TRF HD tranny mounts with the cavity filled with
automotive
>> silicone successfully now for years. Welded mounts used with racing engine
>> mounts caused float bowl issues for me. The silicone acts like the gel in
>> running shoes, absorbs a lot of harmonics.
>>
>> Bob Kramer
>> Sent from my iPhone


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May 22 14:21:41 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 16:21:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT Logo
Message-ID: <BLU168-W62E0D6C6448CFC3B188149BAA90@phx.gbl>

I need a clean jpeg of the FOT logo. I had one at one time but don't know
where I filed it so I wouldn't lose it. Anybody have it they could email me?

Thanks,


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed May 22 14:23:38 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:23:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Fot, 

I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is any consensus. 

The question is two parts. 

EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach users guide will say the probes should be located 

6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey readings out there so he suggests 6" from the valve. 

That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's but yet my plugs are telling a richer story. 

It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the probe is right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus 

reading artificially high. 



So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what kind of EGT's they see. 

When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 1400F as normal. 

It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston melting going on. 



Thanks again for the input, 

jim g 


From cofrog at q.com  Wed May 22 15:05:51 2013
From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:05:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>

Thanks to you for working a corner and to all the workers who enabled us to run the long course.  I'm glad you enjoyed the weekend.  I hope to see you and Terry Davis at Hastings.

All who run High Plains give it high marks.  I hope that folks decide to take a tow out here and check it out.  It would be an outstanding track for a Kastner Cup except for it's relative remoteness for those who stay in Motels.   

I don't know if it's me but I'm unable to get any results on My Laps since they supposedly they "improved" the site.  If anyone knows anything about what's up with My Laps please share.  Due to Jim Gray having mechanical issues I was able to take D Production in the four races I ran with Jim Roelofs in lurking mode in his TR4. 

Dan Forgey


_______________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 16:58:08 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:58:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <001101ce573f$d4daac60$7e900520$@com>

We've been using NAPA DOT 4 Bake fluid for at least 5 years.  The cans used
to be marked "Low Moisture Absorbing" but are not marked as that any more.
The wet boiling point is "at least 311 degrees F".  We've never had any
problems and bleed and change the fluid before each season.

For what it's worth, the temperature of our front rotors coming off the
track after a session range between 300 deg F and 450 deg. F.  The large
variation is probably dependent on the track and how for our paddock area is
from the track exit.  At any given track and paddock area, the number is
pretty consistent.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of yellow04 at tr4racer.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 5:46 AM
To: Mike Moore; 'FOT'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough

heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .

I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid


> What's the fluid of choice for you guys? 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 17:06:57 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:06:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
	<519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001201ce5741$12719f10$3754dd30$@com>

Ryan lost a tire when he was using the trailer (24 foot enclosed) to haul
some surplus equipment, shelves, workbenches etc.  The tire pretty much just
disintegrated and he noticed it right away as the pieces were bouncing off
the trailer making quite a racket.  Fortunately he was only a couple of
miles from the shop.  We carry 12" square by 2" thick pieces of wood on the
trailer and we were able to easily drive the tire that was left up onto a
wood ramp to take off the old wheel and put on the spare.  That was always
our plan if we had a flat and it worked good.  We then replaced all 4 tires
with ones with a  load rating of "E", I think they are 10 ply.  The old ones
were "D" load rated.  The old tires were 6 years old without that many miles
on them.

Tim & Ryan

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 12:35 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info

We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race 
at Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section 
of I5.  A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - 
I never felt or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it 
off, the windshield wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the 
freeway off ramp.  Put on my spare and then found a replacement wheel 
and tire to carry with me as a spare.  I replaced all four of the 
remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my race tire dealer bring 
them to the track which was very convenient.

On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side,
the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>   I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 17:19:48 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:19:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001301ce5742$db9842d0$92c8c870$@com>

We have a TR4 with about 11:1 CR.  Our EGT's are mounted on #1 and #4 header
pipes about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inches from the cylinder head.  They are not
exactly equal.  #1 and #4 header pipes were used because they were a lot
easier to get the probes on.  At 3000 RPM "idle" (no load) we get between
800 and 1000 degrees.  Down the straights we get between 1300 and 1400
degrees, WOT in 4th.

One note for what it's worth: the pistons are being cooled every cycle by
the incoming charge whereas the EGT probes do not get any appreciable
cooling.  Even the exhaust ports get some cooling from the water jacket.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:24 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again

Fot, 

I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is any
consensus. 

The question is two parts. 

EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach users guide
will say the probes should be located 

6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey readings out
there so he suggests 6" from the valve. 

That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's but yet
my plugs are telling a richer story. 

It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the probe is
right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus 

reading artificially high. 



So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what kind of
EGT's they see. 

When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 1400F
as normal. 

It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston melting
going on. 



Thanks again for the input, 

jim g 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May 22 19:07:55 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:07:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals.  100 produced
Message-ID: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>

I ordered and received 100 FOT decals today.

$10 will get you two delivered to your address.

Checks preferred, but PayPal is convenient.

FOT  
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA.  50648

PayPal.  N197tr4 at cs.com

Thanks

Sent from my iPad


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May 22 21:19:27 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 22:19:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.eme
	ryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.244.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I run about 6" from the flange.  I run 1400 in the 2nd half of the 
straights and have never seen any evidence of melting on my forget 
pistons.  I suspect that thinner cast pistons may be more susceptible 
to melting.  I also run 110 octane leaded and about 32 degrees of advance.

Tony Drews

At 03:23 PM 5/22/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>Fot,
>
>I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is 
>any consensus.
>
>The question is two parts.
>
>EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach 
>users guide will say the probes should be located
>
>6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey 
>readings out there so he suggests 6" from the valve.
>
>That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's 
>but yet my plugs are telling a richer story.
>
>It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the 
>probe is right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus
>
>reading artificially high.
>
>
>
>So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what 
>kind of EGT's they see.
>
>When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 
>1400F as normal.
>
>It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston 
>melting going on.
>
>
>
>Thanks again for the input,
>
>jim g
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May 23 06:03:50 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305230749430.12428@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything 
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the 
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with 
clutch disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem 
could be that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but 
I installed a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch 
installation - and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel 
spin or clutch slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock 
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can 
restrict the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch 
release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a 
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push 
the slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a 
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new 
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross 
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when 
I start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta 
work on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sjanzen at me.com  Thu May 23 06:42:37 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:42:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <20130523032321.5B5E340E67@autox.team.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523032321.5B5E340E67@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>

2" from the head.   1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
determine.


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May 23 08:19:22 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:19:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
Message-ID: <368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks guys for the input.

We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange

and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
1362F for EGT's.

Very helpful,

Jim G.



----- Original Message -----


From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again

2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
determine.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 08:30:01 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:30:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emer
	yville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.245.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and 
included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the 
EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".

Tony Drews

At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>Thanks guys for the input.
>
>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>
>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
>1362F for EGT's.
>
>Very helpful,
>
>Jim G.
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>
>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
>determine.


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May 23 09:38:17 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:38:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>

Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you shoot 
for?
Thanks, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages


> By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and included 
> the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the EGT's produced 
> at that time as "baseline".
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>
>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>
>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange 
>>and
>>1362F for EGT's.
>>
>>Very helpful,
>>
>>Jim G.
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>
>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees 
>>advance.
>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers 
>>to
>>determine.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Thu May 23 09:49:27 2013
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (K LYNCH)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:49:27 -0600
Subject: [Fot] LBC parts quest
Message-ID: <BLU178-DS566A3586FB0B49BA7D719B7AA0@phx.gbl>

Hi gang.
I'm looking for a pair of seats from a (57'?) A.H. 100-4.
I realize this is a longshot, but thought I'd run this up the flag-pole.
Thanks in advance !

Kev Lynch
Colo.


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 09:57:53 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:57:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
Message-ID: <mailman.246.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than 
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 
12.5:1.  So, some of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when 
the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The 
leaded gas kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno 
session and we killed it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you 
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and 
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the 
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
>>>1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 
>>>degrees advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>>>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
>>>determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu May 23 10:32:06 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 16:32:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
Message-ID: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello friends, 
I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem. 
I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will have to come off the pad. 


Thanks, 
Dave 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu May 23 10:36:58 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:36:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
Message-ID: <8D2D4845-668D-4D87-88EB-BBA45CFE69D8@cs.com>

There about 20 decals spoken for.

I would like to do several at once, so if you are thinking about, please go
ahead.

And then I can put the money back in the FOT Fund, too.

It wouldn't hurt thank the 22 folks who recently made contributions to the
fund. This really makes planning and decisions much easier.

While I am at it, if you have an outstanding balance on your Lester Garage
stall, please remit ASAP.

Jason and I reviewed our paddock area last Friday and it continues to seem
ideal.

Thanks,

Joe


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 10:37:39 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:37:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emer
	yville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.247.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up.  For 
racing, I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ).  We 
didn't like the Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked 
easily, were hard on the rotors and left little bits of molten rotor 
stuck in the paint of the wheel.

Cheers, Tony

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote:
>Hello friends,
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have 
>put over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over 
>and they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between 
>stops sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from 
>Moss and the outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious 
>that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads 
>went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying to 
>fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss 
>pads where fat and same problem.
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have 
>had no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I 
>guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has 
>anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and 
>hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" 
>will have to come off the pad.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu May 23 10:48:54 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:48:54 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01ce57d5$6a219780$3e64c680$@com>

I run EBC yellow stuff.
They always fit well. But they are not aggressive pads. They do a gentle
job, especially on the wet.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von davehogye
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013 18:32
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit

Hello friends,
I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over
500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered
a set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit
in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper,
but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until
trying to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the
Moss pads where fat and same problem.
I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured,
calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this.
Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside
pads to fit them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be
measuring things and hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like
at least .050" will have to come off the pad.


Thanks,
Dave
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Thu May 23 11:31:33 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:31:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D66C37DB-D14C-40CF-81DB-4E6787910EC8@bnj.com>

Sure, it's a common problem with aftermarket calipers. You can shim the
calipers to center them, or shave the pads. Easiest way to shave pads it to
put a flat metal plate on a drill press and chuck a cup grinding wheel in the
drill. Slide the pad around under the cup to remove layers. wear a respirator.

Mr. Kastner told me about this many years ago as a way to eliminate taper from
a worn or glazed disk. Works great.
On May 23, 2013, at 9:32 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hello friends,
> I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over
500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered a
set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit in
the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but
the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying
to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads
where fat and same problem.
> I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured,
calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. Perhaps
the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit
them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and
hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will have
to come off the pad.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 23 12:06:56 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:06:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <20130523164525.3890340527@autox.team.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523164525.3890340527@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C71DB683AECE4714AB735A6FC440ECA4@gdhs.local>

We use Carbotech in my TR3A race car as well.  Be sure and tell Mike
(704-481-8554) they are for your TR3 so they won't make them too thick as
used in some of the NASCAR applications.  My part # is CTGD500-AX6.  He has
a record under my name as to the correct thickness.....


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
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-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:38 PM
To: davehogye; Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up.  For racing,
I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ).  We didn't like the
Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked easily, were hard on the
rotors and left little bits of molten rotor stuck in the paint of the wheel.

Cheers, Tony

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote:
>Hello friends,
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and 
>they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops 
>sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the 
>outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is 
>not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I 
>hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another 
>set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem.
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had 
>no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess 
>I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else 
>come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out 
>what's going on, but it looks like at least .050"
>will have to come off the pad.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May 23 12:15:41 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:15:41 +0000
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
	<20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>

And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that gasoline fuel
stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's right as usual.  I've
been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and thinking that was a good thing.

Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at the
plugs...



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
To: Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 12.5:1.  So, some
of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The leaded gas
kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno session and we killed
it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
>>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
>>>advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
>>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
>>>with the webers to determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 12:31:34 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 13:31:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccart
	y-law.com>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
	<20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.248.1638251587.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

14.7:1 is for unleaded gas / cat converter.  The EPA redefined it for us.

Tony

At 01:15 PM 5/23/2013, Barr, Scott wrote:
>Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>
>
>And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that 
>gasoline fuel stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's 
>right as usual.  I've been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and 
>thinking that was a good thing.
>
>Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at 
>the plugs...
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
>On Behalf Of Tony Drews
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
>To: Bill Tobin
>Cc: fot
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer 
>than stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 
>12.5:1.  So, some of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when 
>the exhaust port opens.
>
>The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The 
>leaded gas kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno 
>session and we killed it by the end of the testing.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
> >Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
> >shoot for?
> >Thanks, Bill
> >----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> >To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> >Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
> >
> >
> >>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
> >>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
> >>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
> >>
> >>Tony Drews
> >>
> >>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
> >>>Thanks guys for the input.
> >>>
> >>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
> >>>
> >>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
> >>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
> >>>
> >>>Very helpful,
> >>>
> >>>Jim G.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> >>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
> >>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
> >>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
> >>>
> >>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
> >>>advance.
> >>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
> >>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
> >>>with the webers to determine.
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >>http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu May 23 13:03:22 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:03:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <C71DB683AECE4714AB735A6FC440ECA4@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <680215001.2218328.1369335802244.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks everybody for the great response to my "problem", not too much. 
Thanks for the inside info with Carbotech, John. 
Yes Joe, but the caliper would have to move outward. Tony suggested shimming the carrier. Not a bad idea. I'd like to get the thing centered up. 
The path of least resistance would be to shave the pads. Thanks Bill, for suggesting the respirator. It's nice to know someone cares. Maybe I'll just move my drill press outside. It's a beautiful breezy day here in Santa Cruz and I won't get my shop all dusty. I'll wear a respirator and hold my breath too. 
This group is my favorite by far, racers rule, 
Dave 

----- Original Message -----
From: "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> 
To: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>, "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net>, Fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:06:56 AM 
Subject: RE: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit 

We use Carbotech in my TR3A race car as well. Be sure and tell Mike 
(704-481-8554) they are for your TR3 so they won't make them too thick as 
used in some of the NASCAR applications. My part # is CTGD500-AX6. He has 
a record under my name as to the correct thickness..... 


John H. Hasty 
Attorney At Law 
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C. 
719 East Boulevard 
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113 
Tele: (704) 372-5600 
Fax: (704) 372-4601 
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com 
www.gdhs.com 

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message (and any attachments) is 
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that 
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT. 
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any 
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have 
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message 
and its attachments and notify us immediately. Thank you. 

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE: In order to comply with certain IRS regulations 
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise, 
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments) 
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of 
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, 
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter 
addressed herein. 
-----Original Message----- 
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of Tony Drews 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:38 PM 
To: davehogye; Fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit 

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up. For racing, 
I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ). We didn't like the 
Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked easily, were hard on the 
rotors and left little bits of molten rotor stuck in the paint of the wheel. 

Cheers, Tony 

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote: 
>Hello friends, 
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and 
>they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops 
>sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the 
>outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is 
>not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I 
>hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another 
>set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem. 
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had 
>no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess 
>I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else 
>come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out 
>what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" 
>will have to come off the pad. 
> 
> 
>Thanks, 
>Dave 
>_______________________________________________ 
>fot at autox.team.net 
> 
>http://www.fot-racing.com 
> 
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

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From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 23 14:15:26 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 15:15:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com><368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net><DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530><20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <D7E518497F084219836921EA9BC3190D@rileyPC>

We recently put our ChumpCar Alfa 116 on a chassis dyno
and learned lots of neat stuff.   Like, we were at 13:1
and thought it was good.
We adjusted the fuel injection to 12.5 and picked up a few
horsepower until the ratio started to slowly lean out to
13.1: at 5k rpm.    This told us we had a fuel delivery
problem of some sort that we had not been aware of.  Also told
us there was some more hp on the table.
Our dyno operator was very helpful and knowledgeable.
Money and time VERY well spent.

art de armond
-----Original Message----- 
From: Barr, Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:15 PM
To: 'Tony Drews' ; Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>

And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that gasoline 
fuel
stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's right as usual.  I've
been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and thinking that was a good thing.

Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at the
plugs...



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf
Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
To: Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 12.5:1.  So, 
some
of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The leaded gas
kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno session and we killed
it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
>>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
>>>advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
>>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
>>>with the webers to determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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_______________________________________________
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net





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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May 23 16:23:10 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:23:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<D66C37DB-D14C-40CF-81DB-4E6787910EC8@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <E60200EE10E74B699E873C814AA87460@hpd530>

Bill, I use a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck to true mine. However if 
you don't happen to have a surface grinder...........
That drill press trick works well.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: <Fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit


> Sure, it's a common problem with aftermarket calipers. You can shim the
> calipers to center them, or shave the pads. Easiest way to shave pads it 
> to
> put a flat metal plate on a drill press and chuck a cup grinding wheel in 
> the
> drill. Slide the pad around under the cup to remove layers. wear a 
> respirator.
>
> Mr. Kastner told me about this many years ago as a way to eliminate taper 
> from
> a worn or glazed disk. Works great.
> On May 23, 2013, at 9:32 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello friends,
>> I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>> over
> 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
> squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I 
> ordered a
> set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit 
> in
> the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, 
> but
> the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until 
> trying
> to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss 
> pads
> where fat and same problem.
>> I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>> remanufactured,
> calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
> caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. 
> Perhaps
> the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to 
> fit
> them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things 
> and
> hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will 
> have
> to come off the pad.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 24 08:48:09 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:48:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
Message-ID: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>

Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.

PayPal paid decals going out today.

Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.

We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.

Joe A



Sent from my iPad


From apackard68 at att.net  Fri May 24 10:26:17 2013
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andy Packard)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:26:17 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
Message-ID: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>

I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?

Andy Packard
Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>
> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>
> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>
> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>
> Joe A
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 24 10:38:15 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 11:38:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
Message-ID: <CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>

They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
again.

The logo has become a sign of distinction.

Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
volunteering.

Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.

I don't remember who did it last.

You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for them
out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money back.

Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net


From jaxonracing at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 12:30:17 2013
From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (Jaxon Racing)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 14:30:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
Message-ID: <837C0076-62A8-4F0C-9461-3BB1E3517112@yahoo.com>

I would like one for my drivers suit

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 12:26 PM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
> interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com


From horizonracing at msn.com  Wed May 22 19:21:54 2013
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:21:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
References: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>,
	<512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-W944138572C5CA71446265B2AA0@phx.gbl>

The folks that Run High plains Raceway are GREAT (fun) ! I went a couple of
years ago for  Formula B get together. Track is tricky/busy and a couple of
really quick (pull up ya big boy panty's) type corners.
Yes, The good hotels are 50 ? freeway miles away, but not really big deal.


> Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:05:51 -0400
> From: cofrog at q.com
> To: joeg at neb.rr.com
> CC: klynch_6 at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net; edenma at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
>
> Thanks to you for working a corner and to all the workers who enabled us to
run the long course.  I'm glad you enjoyed the weekend.  I hope to see you and
Terry Davis at Hastings.
>
> All who run High Plains give it high marks.  I hope that folks decide to
take a tow out here and check it out.  It would be an outstanding track for a
Kastner Cup except for it's relative remoteness for those who stay in Motels.
>
> I don't know if it's me but I'm unable to get any results on My Laps since
they supposedly they "improved" the site.  If anyone knows anything about
what's up with My Laps please share.  Due to Jim Gray having mechanical issues
I was able to take D Production in the four races I ran with Jim Roelofs in
lurking mode in his TR4.
>
> Dan Forgey
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From my71spit13 at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 14:21:49 2013
From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 13:21:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Patches and KCup roommates
Message-ID: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I would be interested in FoT patches. Also, are there tshirts available?
 
On
another note, would anyone have an extra room at the Osthoff that my wife and
I could split costs with at the KCup. We had not reserved a room and it may be
too late to get the room we wanted, since we are over the amount of reserved
rooms. Cost affective would be to split a room. Let me know. Thanks
 
Shawn
Frank
515-339-4228


From wgaplin at bellsouth.net  Fri May 24 16:04:30 2013
From: wgaplin at bellsouth.net (Warren Aplin)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 18:04:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
	<CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
Message-ID: <002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>

I would like both a  couple of patches and a few stickers.  I am unable to
make Road America, but would gladly preorder and send a check

Warren Aplin
Jupiter, FL
561-748-8187

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:38 PM
To: Andy Packard
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!

They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
again.

The logo has become a sign of distinction.

Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
volunteering.

Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.

I don't remember who did it last.

You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for
them out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money
back.

Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wgaplin at bellsouth.net


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 24 16:10:56 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 18:10:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] shirts
In-Reply-To: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>

We did a run of the regular FOT shirts last year and had a difficult time
making the minimum order so another run already is not in the cards. That
being said there are some places on line that you can have as little as one
shirt printed up using your supplied design. Maybe I can look into something
like that when I have nothing to do if there is any interest.

Marty

 Also, are there tshirts available?


From rwestfall at ymail.com  Fri May 24 16:44:08 2013
From: rwestfall at ymail.com (Russell Westfall)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 15:44:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals. 100 produced
In-Reply-To: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1369435448.35931.YahooMailMobile@web161806.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Joe
I will take two decals, I will put a check in the mail to you tomorrow.
Thanks!
Russ Westfall


From fasttr4 at aol.com  Fri May 24 17:20:20 2013
From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:20:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals.  100 produced
In-Reply-To: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
References: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8D026EC648031D8-1D3C-191CD@webmail-d277.sysops.aol.com>

Save me 2 decals.  Check is in the mail.

Bruce Lapierre X-#46



-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 22, 2013 9:11 pm
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals. 100 produced


I ordered and received 100 FOT decals today.
$10 will get you two delivered to your address.
Checks preferred, but PayPal is convenient.
FOT
45 1st Street
esup, IA.  50648
PayPal.  N197tr4 at cs.com
Thanks
Sent from my iPad
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttr4 at aol.com


From bownes at seiri.com  Fri May 24 17:33:29 2013
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:33:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
	<CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
	<002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <89C60843-9006-48AF-A227-7A041FF6A813@seiri.com>

Next time there is a run of the Very Large decals, I would like a set of 2
please!


On May 24, 2013, at 18:04, "Warren Aplin" <wgaplin at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> I would like both a  couple of patches and a few stickers.  I am unable to
> make Road America, but would gladly preorder and send a check
>
> Warren Aplin
> Jupiter, FL
> 561-748-8187
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:38 PM
> To: Andy Packard
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
>
> They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
> again.
>
> The logo has become a sign of distinction.
>
> Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
> volunteering.
>
> Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.
>
> I don't remember who did it last.
>
> You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for
> them out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money
> back.
>
> Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.
>
> Joe A
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:
>
>> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
> interested in these or have they been done already?
>>
>> Andy Packard
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>>
>>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>>
>>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>>
>>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>>
>>> Joe A
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wgaplin at bellsouth.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From jaxonracing at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 17:33:53 2013
From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (Jaxon Racing)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:33:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] shirts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>
References: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A6479BB9-E533-4DCE-B16E-64F164F73343@yahoo.com>

We do shirt orders for hockey using transfers and once they are done you can
order just one or more if you like so there is no need for a minimum.



Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 6:10 PM, marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com> wrote:

> We did a run of the regular FOT shirts last year and had a difficult time
> making the minimum order so another run already is not in the cards. That
> being said there are some places on line that you can have as little as one
> shirt printed up using your supplied design. Maybe I can look into
something
> like that when I have nothing to do if there is any interest.
>
> Marty
>
> Also, are there tshirts available?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com


From chasgee at aol.com  Fri May 24 17:47:06 2013
From: chasgee at aol.com (Chuck Gee)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:47:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Paddock Info For Kastner Cup #2
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoG6PdpwFt8e7hvJ+9OarJ+vC5DQnFpyXiF5=aCOKfabg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYoG6PdpwFt8e7hvJ+9OarJ+vC5DQnFpyXiF5=aCOKfabg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8D026F021C3CD40-95C-142ED@webmail-d132.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Jason,

I sent my check for two spots today.  You should get it early next week.

Thanks,

Chuck Gee



-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 29, 2013 2:52 pm
Subject: [Fot] Paddock Info For Kastner Cup #2


This is the 2nd instalment of Paddock Info for the Kastner Cup.
ATTENTION ALL KASTNER CUP PARTICIPANTS:
Notes on status of Garage rentals:
Many of you have reserved garage spaces in the open air Lester Buildings.
his will be Triumph headquarters for various aspects of The Kastner Cup.
If you have reserved a space. THANK YOU!
t this point there are only a few garage spots left, call it fair warning!
If you have reserved a garage spot and HAVE SENT me a payment already...
HANK YOU for being early to the grid.
If you have reserved a garage spot and have NOT SENT payment yet...
econd call!
lease send $50.00 per spot payable to:
onderland Multivintage
731 Grand Blvd
rookfield IL 60513
(Notice to all garage renters>>> Do not be alarmed if you have not heard
rom me yet or gotten any official confirmation. Official confirmation in
egards to garage space has not yet been given. So, Again, If you paid
lready, thanks...look for a personal email in the coming days in regard
o your official confirmation.)
Notes on General Paddock Arrangement:
Negotiations and initial planning for the ALL TRIUMPH PADDOCK is going well.
t is a rare thing to have any special paddock arrangements made at Road
merica. Thanks to some dedicated FoTer's voices and persistent contact
ith the Race-Chairmen and RA officials, so far it looks like Triumph
ompetitors will be given five star treatment. To Be Clear.... WE are the
EATURE!
To facilitate accurate planning of open space in the ALL TRIUMPH PADDOCK I
ave asked ALL TRIUMPH COMPETITORS to send me the dimensions of
heir paddock space needs. (dimensions of rig, canopies, tent, RV)
f you have not contacted me with this info please do so now. Email
ason at multivintage.com  with the requested info.
Opinions and Feedback and important paddock concepts thus far:
) The Lester building / garages will work great for car prep/show for the
ntire weekend.
) The garages are not secure or private (keep that in mind)
) Your rig and trailer or RV etc. will NOT be right next to you garage
pot and may be a short walk from your spot. I will try to get you as close
s I can. but understand that your paddock spot (for your tow rig and
railer) will not be at an arms length from your garage spot. (please be
dvised and plan accordingly)
) Tech will happen in our Triumph Paddock area.
) RV hookup power is not technically available in our designated area.
) If you want power, rent a garage spot.(period)
) If you want power at you RV / rig / paddock spot plan on paying lots of
oney to get it or BRING a GENERATOR.
) I have been asked "Can I run a cord from my garage spot to my Rig and
ent or RV? Answer: don't count on it.
) If You must have RV power because of any personal/ medical issues...
ontact me immediately! Jason @ (312)208-5227
0) If you need anything special, now is the time to ask for it! Contact
ason @ (312)208-5227
1) If you know anyone that is not on the FOT list or that does not keep up
ith our emails; Please forward this info to them and urge them to contact
e with any concerns and the requested details.
2)  If I have forgotten anything or not mentioned something that you would
ike to see as part of the paddock experience for this event, I AM HERE FOR
OU to see what we can do! call Jason @ (312)208-5227 or email
ason at multivintage.com
3) This is going to be totally awesome. The 2013 Kastner Cup at Road
merica is shaping up to be the greatest Triumph Race in the history of
otorsport.
 Thanks!
ason Ostrowski
riendly Ghost Racing
laning Committee/Paddock Master
013 Kastner Cup at Road America
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 24 19:04:42 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:04:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
Message-ID: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>

I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the 
principles involved
are not marque specific.

mjb.



You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose 
carbs.
Fixed that, still having trouble.

So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a 
while for odds
and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker, 
smart kid.  I've
been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor 
disagreement
today.

So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm 
over mouth
of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm 
over the rear
carb, engine stumbles and dies.

I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri May 24 19:38:37 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 20:38:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <000b01ce58e8$953b1fe0$bfb15fa0$@com>

I think the rear carb is feeding all 4 cylinders and the front carb isn't
getting any gas and acting like a big vacuum leak.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:05 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?

I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the 
principles involved
are not marque specific.

mjb.



You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose 
carbs.
Fixed that, still having trouble.

So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a 
while for odds
and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker, 
smart kid.  I've
been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor 
disagreement
today.

So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm 
over mouth
of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm 
over the rear
carb, engine stumbles and dies.

I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May 25 07:40:36 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 08:40:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"
Message-ID: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>

Heard from Steve Hedke this week. You may remember him as entering his TR3 in
the Great Race a few years ago. I think he won his division once.

Great Race starts near St. Paul in June. Might be a fun place to be.

He will be doing the Great Race this year in a 1916 Hudson Indy Car.

Still a TR3 guy, I invited him to return to our list.

I hope he does.


From tlizzard at msn.com  Sat May 25 07:56:06 2013
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 09:56:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>

Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.

Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
  To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
  Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?


  I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
  principles involved
  are not marque specific.

  mjb.



  You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
  carbs.
  Fixed that, still having trouble.

  So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
  while for odds
  and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
  smart kid.  I've
  been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
  disagreement
  today.

  So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
  over mouth
  of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
  over the rear
  carb, engine stumbles and dies.

  I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May 25 09:58:14 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 10:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Regalia Update. Decals. Kastner Cup. 2013. Road America
Message-ID: <D02080DE-6FB1-45DA-BC43-ED64EBB8186E@cs.com>

More than half of the 100 decals are spoken for...way to go!

I am addressing envelopes again today. If you are sending a check, please give
me your address so I can get these out and done with.

Looks like Andy Packard is going to make an offering of patches. It's overdue
and he has a good source. Remember, if you don't have a driver's suit, you can
put on a jacket or hat.

The next time I am in Signs By Tomorrow, I check into pricing on the larger
FOT decals and report back.

Flags, badges, decals, patches all going to KCUP 2013.
Our own garage facilities, event shirts, event posters.
Marque awards by Snook's Dream Cars.
And custom name tags......

No featured marque will ever look as good as we are at ELVF

And there is more....we are going have custom made Tech Stickers.

Also, VSCDA has a traditional "Rally Board" decal. We made arrangements for
the FOT logo to appear on this very collectible driver premium. They will also
be available for sale.


Thanks to all who have supported this effort.


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat May 25 17:56:29 2013
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 19:56:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>

Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the base
is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If they
are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.

I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get any
throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly throttle
the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?) were
bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix at
the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.

Chris

On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:

> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>
> Terry Stetler
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>  To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>  Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>
>
>  I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>  principles involved
>  are not marque specific.
>
>  mjb.
>
>
>
>  You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>  carbs.
>  Fixed that, still having trouble.
>
>  So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>  while for odds
>  and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>  smart kid.  I've
>  been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>  disagreement
>  today.
>
>  So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>  over mouth
>  of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>  over the rear
>  carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>
>  I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>  _______________________________________________
>  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>
>  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat May 25 19:58:35 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 20:58:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>

No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run with
the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I imagine
those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.

Duncan
1952 Morgan Plus 4
Red #6

On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:

> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
base
> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If they
> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>
> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get
any
> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
throttle
> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?) were
> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
at
> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.
>
> Chris
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>
>> Terry Stetler
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>
>>
>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>> principles involved
>> are not marque specific.
>>
>> mjb.
>>
>>
>>
>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>> carbs.
>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>
>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>> while for odds
>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>> smart kid.  I've
>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>> disagreement
>> today.
>>
>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>> over mouth
>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>> over the rear
>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>
>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat May 25 20:25:57 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 22:25:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Old Box Making Machinery
Message-ID: <B935C8378AEC4D97963CC604061C46FE@hpd530>

Hi Gang, this is not Old British Car related, but it came from the SOB's. 
Sons of Britain, our local car club. Like the FOT, no dues, no officers, but 
a good bunch of folks who have old British cars. They meet for dinner once a 
month, go on drives, and generally have fun. And have a summer picnic at my 
farm. Also a car show in Mid-September at the park in Waterford PA.
This video is very interseting. And very cool.
Enjoy, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rinderlessh at roadrunner.com>
To: "Akard" <makard at act-inc.com>; "Addington" <ohioadds at thewavz.com>; 
"Acklin" <rodney.acklin at ge.com>; "Aubele" <gaubele at verizon.net>; "Auton" 
<autons2 at yahoo.com.au>; "Buto" <butot at bellsouth.net>; "Barefield" 
<mikebarefield at charter.net>; "Carroll" <mikeandlinda806 at gmail.com>; "Chew" 
<ralph.chew at yahoo.com>; "Colvin" <twogaitln at frontier.com>; "Darnell" 
<maggied1102 at yahoo.com>; "Delevan" <r_delevan at msn.com>; "Dillard" 
<clay.dillard at hotmail.com>; "Fechter" <nfechter at sbcglobal.net>; "Ford" 
<manley776 at yahoo.com>; "Frazier" <jpfrazier at embarqmail.com>; "Frew" 
<dfrew at mercyhurst.edu>; "Funk" <jfunk at wabtec.com>; "Gallagher" 
<aalice4 at verizon.net>; "Group" <fairviewgroups at juno.com>; "Haas" 
<emsh at juno.com>; "Hall" <joshua.hall at colorado.edu>; "Hall" 
<pappy.hall at juno.com>; "Hall" <dhall04 at comcast.net>; "Hall" 
<hallla2_2000 at yahoo.com>; "Hanning" <hanningr at gmail.com>; "Henderson" 
<suehardin at att.net>; "Jenkins" <rjenkins49 at comcast.net>; "Johnson" 
<gtjson at ptd.net>; "Kallenbach" <thelakers at toast.net>; "Jordan" 
<mirajcorp at aol.com>; "Kanzler" <dkanzler at hotmail.com>; "Karle" 
<jandkarle at msn.com>; "Karle" <jbkarle at yahoo.com>; "Klauss" 
<wklauss at atlanticbb.net>; "Kling" <paul.kling at morganplc.com>; "Konstanty" 
<walter.konstanty at ge.com>; "Krack" <krak8774 at aol.com>; "Lee" 
<rthomaslee at aol.com>; "Lipski" <jermar46375 at comcast.net>; "Lozowski" 
<gary.lozowski at morganplc.com>; "Majoc" <cmajoc at mercyhurst.edu>; "Muller" 
<robertemuller at charter.net>; "Nowicki" <henry_nowicki at windstream.net>; 
"Oberlander" <kaotwins at verizon.net>; "Parry" <jparry66 at att.net>; "Orton" 
<itsdottyo at aol.com>; "Payne" <linda_payne1 at verizon.net>; "Penna" 
<jlh5 at netzero.com>; "Povlick" <povlicks at truvista.net>; "Predmore" 
<dpredmore at epix.net>; "Quinn" <quinns9 at verizon.net>; "Quinn" 
<stquinn537 at comcast.net>; "Randolph" <allen.randolph at ge.com>; "Ranta" 
<l.ranta at comcast.net>; "Roberge" <roly.roberge at morganplc.com>; "Romanski" 
<j.e.romanski at gmail.com>; "Roth" <rcv at psu.edu>; "Russo" <ratsrusso at cox.net>; 
"Saunders" <rses32 at aol.com>; "Schuerman" <jeanschuer at gmail.com>; "Sholes" 
<dsholes at gpwlaw.com>; "Stewart" <stewartmw at aol.com>; "Straub" 
<jeeper312 at verizon.net>; "Straub" <francis.straub at gmail.com>; "Tabolt" 
<rtskier at verizon.net>; "Tallyen" <russ.tallyen at morganplc.com>; "Tessendorf" 
<tessenri at cox.net>; "Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>; "Vasko" 
<galena130 at yahoo.com>; "Welsbacher" <JMaudio729 at wmconnect.com>; "Wineland" 
<marywineland at zoominternet.net>; "Winnen" <jimwinnen at roadrunner.com>; 
"Yeaney" <peter.yeaney at gmail.com>; "Yeaney" <carl.f.yeaney at gmail.com>; 
<nick.watters at morganplc.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 8:41 PM
Subject: Old Box Making Machinery


> Hi,
>
> This came to me from Frank Russell, my first engineering manager when I 
> started out.
>
> Working with this kind of equipment was not for sissies!
>
> Rich Hall
>
>
>
> "This is the real deal as far as old machinery is concerned. You'll like 
> it. OSHA would have a fit.
>
> Frank"
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/v/_mKSKZau9qs#


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat May 25 21:48:55 2013
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 23:48:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
	<C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>

I did put oil in the pots but it still did the same thing.  He had the idle
set at 1200 so it wouldn't idle high. I finally set it at 1600 as a balance of
low idle and working.  It was a racing engine that wanted a 1800 idle to start
with.

Chris

On May 25, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
> think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run
with
> the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I
imagine
> those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.
>
> Duncan
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4
> Red #6
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:
>
>> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
> base
>> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If
they
>> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
>> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>>
>> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get
> any
>> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
> throttle
>> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?)
were
>> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
> at
>> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>>
>>> Terry Stetler
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>>
>>>
>>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>>> principles involved
>>> are not marque specific.
>>>
>>> mjb.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>>> carbs.
>>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>>
>>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>>> while for odds
>>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>>> smart kid.  I've
>>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>>> disagreement
>>> today.
>>>
>>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>>> over mouth
>>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>>> over the rear
>>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>>
>>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sun May 26 06:15:00 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 07:15:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
	<C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
	<DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6D70ADF0-7346-4440-8596-08E1031A5046@gmail.com>

I discovered another good reason for a high idle speed when my accelerator
cable broke -- I was able to get back to the pits a lot faster!

Duncan


On May 25, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:

> I did put oil in the pots but it still did the same thing.  He had the idle
set at 1200 so it wouldn't idle high. I finally set it at 1600 as a balance of
low idle and working.  It was a racing engine that wanted a 1800 idle to start
with.
>
> Chris
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
>> think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run
with
>> the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I
imagine
>> those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.
>>
>> Duncan
>> 1952 Morgan Plus 4
>> Red #6
>>
>> On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:
>>
>>> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
>> base
>>> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If
they
>>> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
>>> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>>>
>>> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't
get
>> any
>>> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
>> throttle
>>> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?)
were
>>> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
>> at
>>> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the
bouncing.
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>>>
>>>> Terry Stetler
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>>>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>>>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>>>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>>>> principles involved
>>>> are not marque specific.
>>>>
>>>> mjb.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>>>> carbs.
>>>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>>>
>>>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>>>> while for odds
>>>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>>>> smart kid.  I've
>>>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>>>> disagreement
>>>> today.
>>>>
>>>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>>>> over mouth
>>>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>>>> over the rear
>>>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>>>
>>>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
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>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>>>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
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>>> _______________________________________________
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From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sun May 26 21:17:13 2013
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 03:17:13 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Message-ID: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>

Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it on,
you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on the
trailer now compared to before?

Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder?   May be
worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with
clutch disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem
could be that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but
I installed a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch
installation - and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel
spin or clutch slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can
restrict the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch
release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push
the slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when
I start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta
work on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Mon May 27 05:19:29 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 04:19:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <1369653569.22942.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web160904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

What size hose?  A size 3 or size 4?   

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android


From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 27 08:48:43 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 07:48:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>

Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed
from the firewall forward?

thanks for any response and sage advice.


From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon May 27 08:59:28 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 10:59:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A374D0.3080202@charter.net>

Yes,Yes

They are welded on.
Measure before you remove.
Remove the front fenders, get your center punch and drill ready, find 
the spot welds and proceed.
Assembly is the reverse of removal with a mig welder.

Your will also need to remove the inner front fenders.
I have new replacements if needed.

Glenn

On 5/27/2013 10:48 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
> Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
> they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed
> from the firewall forward?
>
> thanks for any response and sage advice.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 27 09:27:32 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:27:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001b01ce5aee$b5562100$20026300$@rr.com>

With a plasma cutter everything is removable, however those are factory
welded to the bulkhead. If you're replacing a damaged front clip use either
a saws-all or a plasma cutter and you can free that section easily. Using a
MiG welder will make short work of the repair.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 10:49 AM
To: TR list; Triumph; Friends
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6

Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are they
bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed from the
firewall forward?

thanks for any response and sage advice.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon May 27 10:21:13 2013
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:21:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
Message-ID: <13322.1369671673@mitchelplumbing.com>

	 BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
 Chuck, the front 'clip' is welded on at the firewall and it includes
the inner fenders and the headlight/hood support portion of the front
end.

	I did change one once and drilled out all the spot welds and welded a
whole new one on.

	Charly Mitchel
	On Mon 27/05/13  7:48 AM , "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley"
triosan at gmail.com sent:
 Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
 they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be
removed
 from the firewall forward?
 thanks for any response and sage advice.
 _______________________________________________
 http://www.fot-racing.com [2]
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [3]
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4]
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Links:
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Fdonate.html
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%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Ffot%2Fcharly%40mitchelplumbing.com


From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Mon May 27 11:59:52 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 12:59:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a set of factory alloys in good condition from a TR7/8
they are looking to offload?
Thanks!
Mike


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 27 12:52:12 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:52:12 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>

You guys doing really complicated stuff.
I use stock stuff and it is doing well.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Joe Boruch
Gesendet: Montag, 27. Mai 2013 05:17
An: lang at isis.mit.edu
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited

Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it on,
you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on
the trailer now compared to before?

Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder?   May
be
worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with clutch
disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem could be
that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but I installed
a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch installation -
and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel spin or clutch
slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can restrict
the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push the
slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when I
start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta work
on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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____________________________________________________________
Transformation of America?
Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc
_______________________________________________
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 15:10:40 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:10:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
Message-ID: <39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>

Me too, Chris. Stock MC, slave,and braided hose. -4 I think. And a Magic 
clutch from TRF.
KISS.
Only time I had a problem was when a rebuilt slave cyl. failed on the grid. 
Got it running on the starter and did the practice session without the 
clutch.
To all Vets out there: thank you. Lots of flags in the cemetaries.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited


> You guys doing really complicated stuff.
> I use stock stuff and it is doing well.
>
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Joe Boruch
> Gesendet: Montag, 27. Mai 2013 05:17
> An: lang at isis.mit.edu
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
>
> Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it 
> on,
> you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on
> the trailer now compared to before?
>
> Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder? 
> May
> be
> worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
> Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
>
> Hi,
>
> I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
> definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
> stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with 
> clutch
> disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem could 
> be
> that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but I 
> installed
> a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch 
> installation -
> and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel spin or clutch
> slippage when I floor it.
>
> The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
> setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can 
> restrict
> the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch release?
>
> I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
> residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push 
> the
> slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.
>
> This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
> used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
> setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
> launches, max.
>
> BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when 
> I
> start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta work
> on that aspect of my driving, I guess.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Transformation of America?
> Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
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>
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 27 15:54:14 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 23:54:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
	<39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
Message-ID: <000301ce5b24$bb87ea00$3297be00$@com>

I didn't like to do a bad critic. I just was astounded about the technical
things you implant in your cars.

At my car the idea counts to keep it stock like so that I can get parts to
repair in the paddock.
If you show up at the paddock with something custom made and nobody has a
spare you can go home - end of the weekend.

My car can race with almost all stock parts.

In one case we parted out a TR3 from a fan to get a cylinder head and a diff
for a fellow racer.
No chance with custom parts.

To tell you what I use:

Stock master
Stock slave
Stock link
GT6 clutch bearing
Tilton pressure plate
And 6 paddle clutch plate

So the only thing I have to bring is a pressure plate spare and a clutch
plate spare.
All other parts are available at the paddock.

Cheers
Chris


From kkjjk at aol.com  Mon May 27 16:43:13 2013
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 18:43:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys
In-Reply-To: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8D02942B4A78AA6-18E4-275FF@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com>

Hey, Mike- I do have a set, actually two sets!  I have no idea what they are
worth.  I would need to check on them as they are buried somewhere in my
garage.  I do know that one set is painted green and that they belong to a
good friend of mine.  The other set I took off a TR7 MANY years ago, but they
are factory 8 wheels ( I bought the entire car just for the wheels, and then
junked the car- big mistake).  I will try to look into it for you, although I
have a grad party and a lot of stuff coming up over the next 2-3 weeks.  How
much of a hurry are you in?  Thanks-- Jay



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jankowski <mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com>
To: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 27, 2013 2:05 pm
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys


Does anyone have a set of factory alloys in good condition from a TR7/8
they are looking to offload?
Thanks!
Mike
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 18:40:58 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:40:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
	<39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
	<000301ce5b24$bb87ea00$3297be00$@com>
Message-ID: <93329F51DCCC4DE8B5B7294927E16C51@hpd530>

Like I said Chris, KISS
(Keep it simple, son)
Cheers, Bill----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited


>I didn't like to do a bad critic. I just was astounded about the technical
> things you implant in your cars.
>
> At my car the idea counts to keep it stock like so that I can get parts to
> repair in the paddock.
> If you show up at the paddock with something custom made and nobody has a
> spare you can go home - end of the weekend.
>
> My car can race with almost all stock parts.
>
> In one case we parted out a TR3 from a fan to get a cylinder head and a 
> diff
> for a fellow racer.
> No chance with custom parts.
>
> To tell you what I use:
>
> Stock master
> Stock slave
> Stock link
> GT6 clutch bearing
> Tilton pressure plate
> And 6 paddle clutch plate
>
> So the only thing I have to bring is a pressure plate spare and a clutch
> plate spare.
> All other parts are available at the paddock.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 18:46:19 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:46:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Whitworth wrenches
Message-ID: <F57471DD6E3441CD81E77034784E4972@hpd530>

Hi All, someone inquired a while ago about my  Whitworth wrenches.
I finally found them, right where I left them. 'Cept I'd forgotten where I
left them!
Most are Blue Point, Snap-on's brand. A few King Dick. Some box, some open.
If any interest, let me know and I'll send you a list.
Thanks, Bill


From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 27 22:38:02 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 21:38:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Need a front clip for my TR6
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNB7qAobCwZsNRVLLtm-GNik83YD+gnoRJ5RXmc6sO2XdA@mail.gmail.com>

Somew eekends ar really good [like two weeks ago when Iset my personal best
by half a second at PAcific Raceways].  some are pretty lousy, like when I
hit the front straight wall at Mission in Canada attempting a pass in the
rain.  Now a need a front clip [everything forward of the fr
irewall].  suspension and frame are ok.  See link below for damage pictures.

https://plus.google.com/photos/103241823961257430252/albums/5882875292021172593?authkey=CIXV_rCP84PJAQ

Chuck in Tacoma, WA


From wgaplin at bellsouth.net  Tue May 28 07:27:10 2013
From: wgaplin at bellsouth.net (Warren Aplin)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:27:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"
In-Reply-To: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>
References: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>
Message-ID: <001f01ce5ba7$0f4f62d0$2dee2870$@net>

That is on my bucket list.  Never thought about doing it in the TR,  That
might be fun.

Warren Aplin
Jupiter, FL
561-748-8187


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 9:41 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"

Heard from Steve Hedke this week. You may remember him as entering his TR3
in the Great Race a few years ago. I think he won his division once.

Great Race starts near St. Paul in June. Might be a fun place to be.

He will be doing the Great Race this year in a 1916 Hudson Indy Car.

Still a TR3 guy, I invited him to return to our list.

I hope he does.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 28 10:38:57 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:38:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 28 10:40:49 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:40:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305281230470.2628@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,


Regarding loading the car - I don't think that's an issue, although it 
might be. I have given thought to setting up a winch in the trailer.. I 
also need to consider this aspect of getting onto the lift in the garage. 
That's a really big "hill". Maybe I need a winch there too.

But, it could also be the driver riding the clutch - I'm not sure.

As regards to keeping things simple, I agree whole-heartedly. The switch 
in hydraulics came about as a result of a roll cage installation which 
included a change to the hydraulics for both the brakes and the clutch. My 
initial plan was to not touch any of that stuff, because it worked fine.

Lesson learned.

I'm also much more clear when I ask this fabricator to do anything to the 
car as he tends to go in with "all guns blazing".

I'm still trying to figure out how to get him to fix the front brace on 
the passenger side that is about 1/16" from the air horns on the Webers. 
But that's another can of worms.

;-)

To the question about what size fittings are in use, the current setup is 
all AN-3. I know that the stock stuff is AN-4. I'm ordering a new clutch 
M/C and some plumbing just for the heck of it. I may get another clutch 
disk and PP, just to have on hand. But to be honest, this is sort of 
frustrating in that I can't test any changes I make until I get to the 
track...

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Tue May 28 10:53:24 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 16:53:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202D7098@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Second!

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 11:39 AM
To: Friends
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 28 10:54:43 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:54:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305281253350.2628@isis.mit.edu>

SECOND

Any Barnes is good in my book (my grandmother was a Barnes).

The fact that the car is a fast TR6 makes the suggestion even better.

rml

On Tue, 28 May 2013, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:

> Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
> TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
> Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!
>
> Email: barnesville at telus.net.
>
> Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lang at isis.mit.edu


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 28 14:07:01 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 15:07:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
Message-ID: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Tue May 28 15:43:54 2013
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:43:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Thanks, Joe. The effort is appreciated.

Edward Dunn

West Coast Vintage Racing
2240 Encinitas Blvd., Suite D101
Encinitas CA 92024

760-492-3814
www.vintageracing.us


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 1:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue May 28 16:09:00 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 00:09:00 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>

A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc

Track started to dry.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be


Cheers
Chris


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 28 17:15:12 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:15:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
Message-ID: <E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>

Good, neat!  Do you guys ever get to run in the dry ?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc
>
> Track started to dry.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be
>
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From rjl at gt-classics.com  Tue May 28 20:13:35 2013
From: rjl at gt-classics.com (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 22:13:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <51A5644F.2040208@gt-classics.com>

Got mine today - they look great.  Thanks Joe.

John

On 5/28/2013 5:43 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:
> Thanks, Joe. The effort is appreciated.
>
> Edward Dunn
>
> West Coast Vintage Racing
> 2240 Encinitas Blvd., Suite D101
> Encinitas CA 92024
>
> 760-492-3814
> www.vintageracing.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
>
> I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
> past 70 of 100 being delivered.
>
> I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
> many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.
>
> We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.
>
> Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe A.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com
>
>
>
>
>    

-- 
Thanks,
R. John Lye

rjl6n at cstone.net


From fasttr4 at aol.com  Tue May 28 20:45:35 2013
From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 22:45:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Decals
Message-ID: <8D02A2DBAD7D790-EB4-26AE3@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks for the effort Joe.  Haven't got mine yet but from all the positive
comments - looking forward to it


From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 28 21:21:16 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:21:16 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>

Well that nomination went over well.

mjb.



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Unsubscribe
Date: 	Tue, 28 May 2013 20:04:11 -0700
From: 	Stephanie Barnes <stephaniegbarnes at gmail.com>
To: 	fot-owner at autox.team.net <fot-owner at autox.team.net>



Please unsubscribe me from this mailing list. Thank you.


From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 28 21:37:37 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:37:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
	<51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>
	<881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>

Stephanie Barnes wrote:
> Sorry?? Nomination?!? I'm drawing a complete blank, I'm afraid. I just started receiving a flurry of emails about some decal. I'm not in the decal business, so I assume I got these ten or so emails in error. I tried the 'help' suggestion, but no explanation was forthcoming, therefore I requested to be removed from the list.
>
> I have no knowledge of "fot," nor its products. I apologise for the misunderstanding.
>
> S G Barnes
>
>

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/fot/2013-05/msg00241.html

Apparently the 'Friends of Triumph" - an amazing collection of Triumph 
racers
and enthusiasts, was not properly explained to you.  I'll suggest you 
stick around
for a bit, see if you and your TR6 really want to part ways with us.

mjb.


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May 29 00:41:24 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:41:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>

We have rain and dry races.
I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: John Hasty [mailto:jhhasty at gdhs.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 29. Mai 2013 01:15
An: MadMarx
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Video Zandvoort

Good, neat!  Do you guys ever get to run in the dry ?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc
>
> Track started to dry.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be
>
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May 29 07:03:50 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:03:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
	<51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>
	<881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
	<51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5BB371DA-3587-4BCF-9B16-AD4D8A61F8D3@cs.com>

Stephanie,

Rumor has it that you and your TR6 are amazing.

This is a semi-exclusive non-organization.

We are also partial to Canadians.

We have no products.

The decals discussed is the logo we apply proudly to our Triumphs and tool
boxes.

Chuck will be with you shortly to explain what he has done by nominating you.

When you run next in the U.S. you will want the FOT logo on your car.

If you decide to stay, welcome aboard.

Joe Alexander

Sent from my iPad

On May 28, 2013, at 10:37 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Stephanie Barnes wrote:
>> Sorry?? Nomination?!? I'm drawing a complete blank, I'm afraid. I just
started receiving a flurry of emails about some decal. I'm not in the decal
business, so I assume I got these ten or so emails in error. I tried the
'help' suggestion, but no explanation was forthcoming, therefore I requested
to be removed from the list.
>>
>> I have no knowledge of "fot," nor its products. I apologise for the
misunderstanding.
>>
>> S G Barnes
>>
>>
>
> http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/fot/2013-05/msg00241.html
>
> Apparently the 'Friends of Triumph" - an amazing collection of Triumph
racers
> and enthusiasts, was not properly explained to you.  I'll suggest you stick
around
> for a bit, see if you and your TR6 really want to part ways with us.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed May 29 07:20:26 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 09:20:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:

> We have rain and dry races.
> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.

That would make you a "real driver".

:-)

> Cheers
> Chris

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Wed May 29 09:42:51 2013
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:42:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Joe, what is the size of this decal?  Thanks, Jim
________________________________
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, May 28, 2013 1:09:16 PM
Subject: [Fot] FOT
Decals

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving
quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make
some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and
I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to
do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole
thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sherryjimmy6116 at att.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May 29 10:52:55 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:52:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.249.1638251588.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I received mine - they look to be about 3" high x 4" wide.  They are 
nicely trimmed too.

Tony Drews

At 10:42 AM 5/29/2013, sherry robyn wrote:
>Joe, what is the size of this decal?  Thanks, Jim
>________________________________
>From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
>To:
>fot at autox.team.net
>Sent: Tue, May 28, 2013 1:09:16 PM
>Subject: [Fot] FOT
>Decals
>
>I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving
>quickly
>past 70 of 100 being delivered.
>
>I did a spread sheet but may make
>some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
>many or none at all, let me know and
>I will deal with it.
>
>We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to
>do this right away.
>
>Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole
>thing a lot of fun.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe A.
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive:
>http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sherryjimmy6116 at att.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed May 29 12:01:26 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:01:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>

I've had enough sliding around in the dry, thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 9:20 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:
> 
>> We have rain and dry races.
>> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.
> 
> That would make you a "real driver".
> 
> :-)
> 
>> Cheers
>> Chris
> 
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May 29 12:04:36 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:04:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
	<141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001401ce5c96$fbe45ca0$f3ad15e0$@com>

Too low tire pressure ;-)

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: John Hasty [mailto:jhhasty at gdhs.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 29. Mai 2013 20:01
An: Robert M. Lang
Cc: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Video Zandvoort

I've had enough sliding around in the dry, thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 9:20 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:
>
>> We have rain and dry races.
>> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.
>
> That would make you a "real driver".
>
> :-)
>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>
> regards,
> rml
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca  Tue May 28 13:27:04 2013
From: peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca (peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:27:04 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C3E1F9F018D9614AAD615D1B96DB0B1E1F2519@DE35S004EXC06.wp.corpintra.net>

Second for one more Canadian


----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley [mailto:triosan at gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 06:38 PM W. Europe Standard Time
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bulkowskip at mercedes-benz.ca



If you are not the addressee, please inform us immediately that you have
received this e-mail by mistake, and delete it. We thank you for your
support.


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed May 29 15:35:48 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 17:35:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Transponder group buy
Message-ID: <001101ce5cb4$7bef1da0$73cd58e0$@rr.com>

There are some folks in VRG that are interested in a show of hands for
anyone wanting to buy a transponder in a group buy to save a bit on the
cost.

If anyone is interested let me know and I will forward your contact info.

 

Russ Moore

Spitfire #49


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Wed May 29 19:31:11 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 21:31:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
Message-ID: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>

Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before they
wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not a
problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
undersized.
Any insight? Ted?
Thanks, Bill
PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look at
you funny!


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:06:21 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:06:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <0766062F-0EF2-4E20-8CF8-A701B8436061@comcast.net>

I too had this problem with fitting rear shoes from Moss.  What I found is
that most replacement shoes are oversized to for turned drums.  The shoe
linings should be no thicker than 3/16".
Moss had just received a new shipment and they were concerned enough to solve
the problem as quickly as they could.  I learned these details of this from my
local British master technician and vintage Morgan racer extraordinaire, Greg
S.

Dave H.

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
they
> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not
a
> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
> undersized.
> Any insight? Ted?
> Thanks, Bill
> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look
at
> you funny!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:08:34 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:08:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <C5A6E0DA-CC9D-41CC-AF49-CF3826DBF35F@comcast.net>

Oh, and Greg happened to have a set of 3/16" thick shoes in stock that went
right on.

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
they
> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not
a
> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
> undersized.
> Any insight? Ted?
> Thanks, Bill
> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look
at
> you funny!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed May 29 20:44:32 2013
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:44:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] brake question
References: <E545F325-1106-4FF8-8EE0-18B467C4E391@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>

> Hi Bill,
> Common issue for me too. Most of the fined brake drums out there  
> are 240Z with a bit of machining. I just get the shoes ground to  
> fit at my last remaining ol' time brake shop. Though I haven't  
> tried, I suspect that a 240Z shoe would go right on with no fit  
> problems - but I like Ted's shoes [ can't remember the name or  
> compound].
> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
> TR4 #314
> Albuquerque New Mexico
> On May 29, 2013, at 7:31 PM, Bill Tobin wrote:
>
>> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of  
>> my TR6.
>> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
>> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned  
>> aluminum drums.
>> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on.  
>> Before they
>> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a  
>> bit (not a
>> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
>> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they  
>> both said
>> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same  
>> problem.
>> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
>> undersized.
>> Any insight? Ted?
>> Thanks, Bill
>> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes,  
>> they look at
>> you funny!
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> lunkercars at earthlink.net


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Thu May 30 06:10:43 2013
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:10:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>
References: <E545F325-1106-4FF8-8EE0-18B467C4E391@earthlink.net>
	<E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MApWYFo6GjC7sVCT4MRP30DhP0taMeuZ4tfb3XJWYdDg@mail.gmail.com>

I run Ted's shoes also and like them , I also had a small fit problem where
I had to cut the edge of the pad to keep from scrubbing, five min. and it
fitted fine.


On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 10:44 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer <
Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Hi Bill,
>> Common issue for me too. Most of the fined brake drums out there are 240Z
>> with a bit of machining. I just get the shoes ground to fit at my last
>> remaining ol' time brake shop. Though I haven't tried, I suspect that a
>> 240Z shoe would go right on with no fit problems - but I like Ted's shoes [
>> can't remember the name or compound].
>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>> TR4 #314
>> Albuquerque New Mexico
>>
>> On May 29, 2013, at 7:31 PM, Bill Tobin wrote:
>>
>>  Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
>>> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
>>> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum
>>> drums.
>>> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
>>> they
>>> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit
>>> (not a
>>> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
>>> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both
>>> said
>>> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
>>> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
>>> undersized.
>>> Any insight? Ted?
>>> Thanks, Bill
>>> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they
>>> look at
>>> you funny!
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>> options/fot/lunkercars@**earthlink.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net>
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com>
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu May 30 07:43:11 2013
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 09:43:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <69CC6CE1-DE9A-4E2B-A69A-A7E19557D952@yahoo.com>

>From what I remember the 240z drums were a smaller radius (metric dimension)
than the TR6 drums, so you will have to have the shoes trimmed to the smaller
240 z radius. A PIA so that's why I changed over to discs 20 years ago.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


From triosan at gmail.com  Thu May 30 09:44:44 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:44:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [6pack] Need a front clip for my TR6
In-Reply-To: <8D02A2DE515D4E9-2228-C4F5@webmail-d234.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAMc4sNB7qAobCwZsNRVLLtm-GNik83YD+gnoRJ5RXmc6sO2XdA@mail.gmail.com>
	<8D02A2DE515D4E9-2228-C4F5@webmail-d234.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNC4KSxHuC_AHP6GE3AJWfo+W_B5f0D_QC_68upAo8T72w@mail.gmail.com>

I got a clip from a local British car dealer -- expensive but whole and in
good shape.  Now for some cutting, bending, welding and painting to get it
all back in shape.

Chuck

On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Mgruber921 <mgruber921 at aol.com> wrote:

> Chuck
> Have very good front clip, every thing you need but I am in ALA. You
> coming this way anytime soon.
>
> Marv
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan at gmail.com>
> To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>; Triumph <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, May 27, 2013 11:45 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Need a front clip for my TR6
>
>  Somew eekends ar really good [like two weeks ago when Iset my personal best
> by half a second at PAcific Raceways].  some are pretty lousy, like when I
> hit the front straight wall at Mission in Canada attempting a pass in the
> rain.  Now a need a front clip [everything forward of the fr
> irewall].  suspension and frame are ok.  See link below for damage pictures.
> https://plus.google.com/photos/103241823961257430252/albums/5882875292021172593?authkey=CIXV_rCP84PJAQ
>
>
> Chuck in Tacoma, WA
>
> ________________________________________
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
>
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From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Thu May 30 10:27:05 2013
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (sgroh1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Needed:  Mk 3 Spitfire Bonnet!!!!
Message-ID: <1288811363.2650367.1369931225436.JavaMail.root@sz0053a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

FOT, I am in need of a restorable Spitfire Mk3 bonnet - mine was damaged
beyond repair at the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point.B  Any leads greatly
appreciated!!!



Sincerely,



Steve Groh, #393 Spitfire

410-322-9047

sgroh1 at comcast.net


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 30 12:36:12 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:36:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
Message-ID: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>

TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
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IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
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is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Thu May 30 12:39:40 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 11:39:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>

Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the handling. I
tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's addition
works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.




On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu May 30 12:53:50 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:53:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>

Almost everyone who has run a rear sway bar has removed it.

Years ago it was discussed with a TR3 racer at RA. He disconnected sway bar
and immediately  2 seconds faster than he had ever run before.

They may work well on the the street, but it seems that at some point in hard
racing, it breaks the rear end loose. Some one else likely can explain this
better.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2013, at 1:36 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Thu May 30 13:03:18 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 15:03:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ce5d68$58fab390$0af01ab0$@rr.com>

My good friend and racing partner years ago tried one despite my cautioning
him. Did maybe a lap of Summit Point with it on and pulled in to take it off
immediately. Seems it kept pushing him into the dirt. That was on a
Spitfire, maybe TR3 is different but I would be surprised. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 2:54 PM
To: john hasty
Cc: <Fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars

Almost everyone who has run a rear sway bar has removed it.

Years ago it was discussed with a TR3 racer at RA. He disconnected sway bar
and immediately  2 seconds faster than he had ever run before.

They may work well on the the street, but it seems that at some point in
hard racing, it breaks the rear end loose. Some one else likely can explain
this better.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2013, at 1:36 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If 
> so, how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any 
> attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK
PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that 
> any dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If 
> you have received this communication in error, please erase all copies 
> of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS 
> regulations regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly 
> stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any 
> attachments) is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be 
> used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) 
> promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any transaction 
> or matter addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
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_______________________________________________
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From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 30 13:04:39 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:04:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>

It is hard to make a sway bar recommendation without
knowing the rest of the front and rear suspension
details.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bill Babcock
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:39 PM
To: john hasty
Cc: Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars

Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the handling. 
I
tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's addition
works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe 
Tony
will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.




On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6369 - Release Date: 05/30/13 


From rjl6n at cstone.net  Thu May 30 13:55:05 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 15:55:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
	<AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <5d29b2cb36abc87d64da3d43e79b77c0.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

Exactly.  Depending on what you want the car to do,
and what else you have done, a rear sway bar can
help you or can hurt.  It is all about the balance.
If you run no front sway bar, or a small one, a
rear sway bar on a TR-3 is probably too much.  If
you run a heavy front sway bar, you might need a
rear sway bar to balance the handling out.  You
need to look at the whole package, not just one end
at a time.

For example, my solid axle TR-4 used very heavy front
and rear sway bars, and I think that anyone who drove
it would say that it handled pretty well - for autocross,
where a loose rear end (ie, a car that oversteers
slightly)can be an asset.  Along with the sway bars,
though, that car also had changes to the front camber,
stiff shocks and a very aggressive alignment (toe out).

I hope that helps,
John

On Thu, May 30, 2013 3:04 pm, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
> It is hard to make a sway bar recommendation without
> knowing the rest of the front and rear suspension
> details.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:39 PM
> To: john hasty
> Cc: Fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars
>
> Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
> longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the
> handling.
> I
> tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's
> addition
> works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe
> Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.
>
>
>
>
> On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If
>> so,
>> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>>
>> John H. Hasty
>> Attorney At Law
>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>> 719 East Boulevard
>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>> www.gdhs.com
>>
>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any
>> attachments)
> is
>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
>> that
>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK
>> PRODUCT.
>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
> message
>> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>>
>> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS
>> regulations
>> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
> otherwise,
>> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any
>> attachments)
>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes
>> of
>> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii)
>> promoting,
>> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
>> addressed herein.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6369 - Release Date: 05/30/13
> _______________________________________________
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 14:05:35 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:05:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <20130530200535.LH8K7.29295.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.

Ditto.

FWIW, I ran the ADDCO bars (3/4" front, 5/8" rear) for many years on my street TR3A.  On the street, I liked the setup, although I did install harder bushings to get more action from the front bar, and left the links pretty loose at the rear (for less action).  My next step was going to be a stiffer bar in the front (probably a 3/4" bar with the extra bends to attach nearer the uprights instead of in the middle of the A-arm like the ADDCO kit).

But on the track, the rear bar was definitely too much.  I didn't get a good before & after because I changed some other things at the same time; but I did pick up about a second at the VTR 2000 autocross with the rear bar disconnected.  I also reconnected it for the drive home and left it that way.  On the street, maintaining control during an emergency maneuver is more important to me, than being able to put down power during a hard turn.  On the track, it's just the opposite.

If/when I install a rear bar again, it will be with the spring-loaded links that allow for fine adjustment of roll stiffness.

Randall


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 14:24:02 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:24:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
Message-ID: <20130530202402.865B0.29377.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.

Ditto.

FWIW, I ran the ADDCO bars (3/4" front, 5/8" rear) for many years on my street TR3A.  On the street, I liked the setup, although I did install harder bushings to get more action from the front bar, and left the links pretty loose at the rear (for less action).  My next step was going to be a stiffer bar in the front (probably a 3/4" bar with the extra bends to attach nearer the uprights instead of in the middle of the A-arm like the ADDCO kit).

But on the track, the rear bar was definitely too much.  I didn't get a good before & after because I changed some other things at the same time; but I did pick up about a second at the VTR 2000 autocross with the rear bar disconnected.  I also reconnected it for the drive home and left it that way.  On the street, maintaining control during an emergency maneuver is more important to me, than being able to put down power during a hard turn.  On the track, it's just the opposite.

If/when I install a rear bar again, it will be with the spring-loaded links that allow for fine adjustment of roll stiffness.

Randall


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 30 14:52:34 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:52:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
Message-ID: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>

Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral only "
plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too much
lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main objective
is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to control
under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with as of
yet.


From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 30 15:35:06 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:35:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
References: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <48335592C8F24D4C8AC7C8DDEAF43B10@rileyPC>

If you only stiffen the back, you may easily get too much oversteer.
Maybe some stiffer front springs would be a good partner for
the rear bar since you would like less body roll.
   I prefer to not add roll stiffness at the front with
a bar.  If don't like a beam axle at the front.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: John Hasty
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:52 PM
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar

Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral only 
"
plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too much
lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main objective
is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to control
under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with as 
of
yet.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Thu May 30 15:39:57 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 07:39:57 +1000
Subject: [Fot] brake question
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b2qgjrdP89SROxD8S5cyKxu_zubEaNcvBNJJmK31XCo=w@mail.gmail.com>

the 240Z finned drum is 228mm (8.97") stock. the max suggested is
9.055" and I've successfully used them larger than this with thicker
linings

this is 0.030" smaller than a TR which is 9.00" stock

the way i do this, is to machine the Z drums to a sensible size, then
get the shoes relined and radius ground to match the drum. no hassles
at all. find a "old school" brake shop with a shoe grinder

Terry


Road and Track
66 Pine Mountain Road
North Ipswich, 4305
Queensland, AUSTRALIA
ph 07-32018866
fax 07-32017079
www.roadandtrack.net.au
http://www.facebook.com/RoadAndTrack1


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu May 30 15:44:22 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 23:44:22 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <000001ce5d7e$db2153e0$9163fba0$@com>

I'm a friend of rear sway bars.
I use a 11/16" one.
But fitting one depends on the whole setup.
I have a very soft springs much camber and set the car to a gentle
understeer.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von john hasty
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 30. Mai 2013 20:36
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Sway Bars

TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May 31 06:07:13 2013
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 08:07:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brakes & sway bars
Message-ID: <51A89271.3010005@bright.net>

Thanks for the positive comments on our Kevlar shoes. For those 
unfamiliar with the prduct, we reline brake shoes with Kevlar. This is a 
drum "friendly" product, fairly high coefficiednt of friction (.45 - 
.47) and does not need to be warmed up. So, you have brakes the first 
time you hit the pedal and are consistent from then on . Since these are 
relined shoes, we can pretty well do anything. Shoes for our cars are 
$65/set of 4.  For race applications we bond and rivet.  Larger shoes, 
such as American cars, can be done but at a higher price.  Bad news is 
there is going to be a price increase to effective June 1.  If you order 
soon and specify FOT price, wqe will honor the $65.  Offer good through 
June 15.

Sway bars are used to "tune" a suspension.  If everything else is not 
done first, frame straight to springs to bushings, throwing a sway bar 
at the car does not fix anything, only acts as a bandage. Our website, 
www.tsimportedautomotive.com. has a section on waybar rates and handling 
"what if's". Click Product Information" and take a look.  Some of the 
rear bars use a really quesionalbe mounting method.  It involves 
drilling holes in lower frame rail and using a rectangular "U" bolt to 
retain the bar mount. A lot to ask from a frame that is 40+ years old. 
We redesigned a rear mount that does not require frame to be drilled and 
allows fore/aft movement to change bar rate. Yes, we do make bars.
Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Fri May 31 15:39:19 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:39:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] free Mk4/5 Spitfire tub in Austin, TX
Message-ID: <401D09FA-D180-40DB-B623-9C18866F719F@gmail.com>

This circulated in our local Triumph Club. The photo I saw suggested the car
had been pieced together under the seats.  I can email the photo off-group if
someone is interested.  I have nothing to do with this car; just passing along
the info.

Duncan

>>Howdy Steve: I parted out this little spitfire because itturned out that the
front and back halves of the tub where from two different cars.  I don't know
if anyone in the club needs some replacement metal for a MKIV - MKV, if they
do they can call me up and come pick it up, otherwise I am going to scrap it
in the next few days.  (Yes it is free)

Art Schoenig

artschoenigco at gmail.com


From stutzmans at comcast.net  Fri May 31 20:15:47 2013
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 22:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
References: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <EC78713DFDBF455EA33EEF7CD3A0DB15@ComputerPC>

A bar on the rear of a TR3 usually causes the inside rear tire to lift on 
tight turns.
If you have a stock diff or a Quaife you may well spin.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 4:52 PM
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar


> Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral 
> only "
> plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too 
> much
> lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
> tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main 
> objective
> is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to 
> control
> under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with 
> as of
> yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net


From joeg at neb.rr.com  Wed May  1 20:06:00 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2013 21:06:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] LeMans/Sebring Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>

Bill,

The best photos I can find to reference are on the Spitfire & GT6 Magazine
website at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/racers.html

Scroll down to the entry for "The real! ABU 4B factory LeMans" and one photo
shows the graphic you are specifically asking about.  The image isn't the
best, and the lettering is dark enough that I had not noticed it before.

I wonder if the folks at Jigsaw Racing in the UK might have some photos they
would share with you.  There web site has some good information -
http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/7bintro.htm

Best of luck with the effort!

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

------------------------Original Message-------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 17:48:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William T newman " <mnewman at embarqmail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
Message-ID:
	<1604883989.2847178.1367358522645.JavaMail.root at embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Amici:
I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph Spitfire
Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car was purchased
from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has owned the car twice and
his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the Works drivers during the era. I
will be racing SCCA Vintage using the #65, Bolton's number. I plan on
finding more history on the car and may need the help of the listers in the
future. Currently, I am in need of some pictutes of the original Works
Spitfires that show the graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I
need enough clarity in order to determine the proper font and scaling to get
this graphic reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The roof
is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality of the
welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire


From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Thu May  2 07:51:26 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 08:51:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] LeMans/Sebring Spitfires
In-Reply-To: <000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.11.1367431202.24379.fot@autox.team.net>
	<000f01ce46d9$98007f20$c8017d60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVv1a0j6xqVQT0=EJXUUwHJY+rEaDDdfZxQ4rJmMs8HcqA@mail.gmail.com>

There is a decent pic in the small red hardcover book about Triumph
Spitfire and GT6 that is by Robson if I recall correctly.
Mike


On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 9:06 PM, Joe Guinan <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> The best photos I can find to reference are on the Spitfire & GT6 Magazine
> website at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/racers.html
>
> Scroll down to the entry for "The real! ABU 4B factory LeMans" and one
> photo
> shows the graphic you are specifically asking about.  The image isn't the
> best, and the lettering is dark enough that I had not noticed it before.
>
> I wonder if the folks at Jigsaw Racing in the UK might have some photos
> they
> would share with you.  There web site has some good information -
> http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/7bintro.htm
>
> Best of luck with the effort!
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
>
> ------------------------Original Message-------------------------
> Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 17:48:42 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "William T newman " <mnewman at embarqmail.com>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
> Message-ID:
>         <1604883989.2847178.1367358522645.JavaMail.root at embarqmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Amici:
> I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph Spitfire
> Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car was purchased
> from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has owned the car twice
> and
> his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the Works drivers during the era. I
> will be racing SCCA Vintage using the #65, Bolton's number. I plan on
> finding more history on the car and may need the help of the listers in the
> future. Currently, I am in need of some pictutes of the original Works
> Spitfires that show the graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I
> need enough clarity in order to determine the proper font and scaling to
> get
> this graphic reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
> By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The roof
> is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality of the
> welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
> Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May  2 12:54:57 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:54:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Thu May  2 13:12:11 2013
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:12:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2013 Mitty pics
Message-ID: <OFA0001103.9D044FC6-ON85257B5F.0067C26D-85257B5F.00697CC8@us.ibm.com>

Some pictures from Sports Car Digest from the Mitty last weekend. There are
five pages of pictures, Triumphs are not the featured marque but you do
look good.

http://www.sportscardigest.com/speedfest-classic-motorsports-mitty-2013-report-and-photos/

Mike Harmuth


From jason at multivintage.com  Thu May  2 13:44:02 2013
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:44:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <mailman.237.1638252579.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm not going to make these 1st couple races. Perhaps memorial day at BHF. But more likely fathers day BHF. 
I'll be at RA May 17- 19, but unless a miracle sponsorship deal comes through... I won't be driving.
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost racing
------Original Message------
From: Barr, Scott
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Sent: May 2, 2013 1:54 PM

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


From jkhagen at charter.net  Thu May  2 15:20:20 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 17:20:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
Message-ID: <5c5bc6dd.619549.13e671e03b9.Webtop.48@charter.net>

John Hagen pulled in today.  Weather maybe ok??  55 and sunny now.  Got 
the TVR with this trip [MG Powered] sorry --but it does have Spit front 
and TR3-4 rear hubs/drums--thats gotta count for something.   John


On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 1:54 PM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's 
> race?
>
> Scott B.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu May  2 15:26:28 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 16:26:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A5645@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce477b$b76c7150$264553f0$@com>

Ryan and I will be there. We leave in the morning.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Barr, Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 1:55 PM
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?

So, anyone else going to Gingerman Raceway this weekend for VSCDA's race?

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From igofaster at att.net  Thu May  2 16:40:40 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:40:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
Message-ID: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
group...
APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
'maintaining control' ...  


Bobby Whitehead

http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May  2 17:36:13 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 19:36:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Gingerman?
In-Reply-To: <20130502195919.39BF142B84@autox.team.net>
References: <20130502195919.39BF142B84@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D84EAE92-2BDE-4300-BF65-3374829C0D10@gdhs.com>

Anyone going to the Glen on June 7 etc?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 3:44 PM, jason at multivintage.com wrote:

> This message cannot be displayed because of the way it is formatted. Ask the
sender to send it again using a different format or email program. text/plain


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May  2 18:01:59 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 18:01:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>

Congrats Bobby, I hope you still have all your fenders. GT2 is a great class.
I always thought four off meant off the ground. Now I gotta figure out that
black flag thingie.
So, how did you do?
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the
> group...
> APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been
> trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about
> 'maintaining control' ...
>
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dforeman at fooddude.com  Thu May  2 19:27:52 2013
From: dforeman at fooddude.com (dforeman at fooddude.com)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 01:27:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1407508355-1367544505-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-280150198-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>

Bobby, I just returned from 3 day ssca school at msr houston.  During the school u had to drive thru, otherwise it is a suggestion.  That school is a blast, by the way, with the spit broken (but ready for ec) is drove the daily 05 mustang gt straight stock.  Replaced brake pads at end of day 2.  Over 300 track miles at this school.  In the school, there were 3 brand new purpose built camaros, gt2?  They (and I in the spit) will be at tws memorial weekend for the double-i think robert too.  Have idle inn rented for that too if u need...
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 15:40:40 
To: FoT Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing

My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
group...
APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
'maintaining control' ...  


Bobby Whitehead

http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dforeman at fooddude.com


From rikrock at live.com  Fri May  3 09:17:24 2013
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 11:17:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>

Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the hill.
To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't link
to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
definitely worth seeing.

Rich Rock


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Fri May  3 09:37:22 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 15:37:22 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Impressive!

I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle off of
the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate excavated a
large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was helicoptering down track
toward the back gate.  I was just glad I didn't get upside down.  I hate
having to repaint the top of the roll bar.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Rich Rock
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)

Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
hill.
To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't link
to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
definitely worth seeing.

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Fri May  3 10:29:20 2013
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 11:29:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>

Upside down, kinda like what happened to Mark Craig at Savannah! He had video
posted somewhere.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


On May 3, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:

> Impressive!
>
> I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle off
of
> the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate excavated a
> large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was helicoptering down track
> toward the back gate.  I was just glad I didn't get upside down.  I hate
> having to repaint the top of the roll bar.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Rich Rock
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
>
> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
> hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
> pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't
link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
> definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From triosan at gmail.com  Fri May  3 11:13:32 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 10:13:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
	<BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNCOE=POjJQWcoab3nNDbtcPbLQu1Ot4R6_o6oVjOEoREQ@mail.gmail.com>

Definitely a very cool picture!  Sure a good test of all of Mr. Good's
suspension products -- as I presume he landed well!


On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 8:17 AM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest the
> hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu
> select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 101-120.. The
> pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for some reason I can't
> link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good shot,
> definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May  3 11:25:30 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 13:25:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
In-Reply-To: <8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net><BLU172-W4CDA60B80C33C2ACFFCA3C6BE0@phx.gbl><82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A6AEA@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
	<8D983E32-3933-49FB-83A8-C0A7A0AF4A6C@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEB3AAC7AB84B1282F16698222FD592@gdhs.local>

Wow!  I saw Mark's "tumble"  I think I counted 5 rolls... 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
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addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Munson
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 12:29 PM
To: Barr, Scott
Cc: FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)

Upside down, kinda like what happened to Mark Craig at Savannah! He had
video posted somewhere.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


On May 3, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Barr, Scott" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:

> Impressive!
>
> I am pretty sure I got Four Off (The Ground) when I broke a rear axle 
> off
of
> the Spit, exiting Turn 4 at Blackhawk.  The brake backing plate 
> excavated a large chunk of asphalt and suddenly the car was 
> helicoptering down track toward the back gate.  I was just glad I 
> didn't get upside down.  I hate having to repaint the top of the roll bar.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
Behalf
> Of Rich Rock
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:17 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Four Off (The Ground)
>
> Happens all the time at Weatherly Hillclimb as the faster cars crest 
> the hill.
> To see a pic pic of Richard Good in his TR6 go to
> www.shutterspeedfoto.com/hillclimb_gallery   From the galleries menu
select
> 2012, Spring Weatherly, Group 1.  Then select the photo group 
> 101-120.. The pic will be the first one in that group.  Sorry, for 
> some reason I can't
link
> to the picture directly .  It's a bit of work but it's a pretty good 
> shot, definitely worth seeing.
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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From jeffreykelley at charter.net  Fri May  3 11:27:33 2013
From: jeffreykelley at charter.net (Jeff Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 13:27:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lemans/Sebring Spitfires
Message-ID: <4aece031.620eba.13e6b6f42a4.Webtop.48@charter.net>

Below is a link to video taken at 1965 24 hrs of LeMans. The pictures 
are a bit grainy but I thinkl you can gather some useful information.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpepDRqcFCo

Jeff Kelley


On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 5:48 PM, William T newman  wrote:

> Amici:
> I have recently purchased a replica of one of the 1964/65 Triumph 
> Spitfire Works effort cars that raced at Sebring and Lemans. The car 
> was purchased from Tim Slater in West Palm Beach, Florida. Tim has 
> owned the car twice and his godfather was Peter Bolton, one of the 
> Works drivers during the era. I will be racing SCCA Vintage using the 
> #65, Bolton's number. I plan on finding more history on the car and 
> may need the help of the listers in the future. Currently, I am in 
> need of some pictutes of the original Works Spitfires that show the 
> graphics "Triumph Spitfire" on the front wings. I need enough clarity 
> in order to determine the proper font and scaling to get this graphic 
> reproduced locally for installation on my new purchase.
> By the way, the car is BRG with a Rick Cline built 1300cc engine. The 
> roof is from a GT6 instead of the original fiberglass, but the quality 
> of the welding and restoration/reproduction is teriffic.
> Any pictures you may have will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Newman #44 GT6 & 1965 Spitfire
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  3 11:43:00 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 12:43:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
Message-ID: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

A M I C I
Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
I am looking for clearance specs.
Thanks
D


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri May  3 16:03:09 2013
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 18:03:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>

I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an 
engine with them right now.

Bob

On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> A M I C I
> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
> I am looking for clearance specs.
> Thanks
> D
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri May  3 17:36:27 2013
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 19:36:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>

I use them in a Spitfire and went with Venolia's recommendation. Been
running them for the past 6 years. No problem handling 8K+

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Davis
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 6:03 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Venolia pistons

I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an engine
with them right now.

Bob

On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
> A M I C I
> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
> I am looking for clearance specs.
> Thanks
> D
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May  3 18:02:06 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:02:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Venolia pistons
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>
References: <512333.84984.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<5184341D.2000108@cfl.rr.com> <000001ce4857$081c2560$18547020$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AB21CCC2-C854-41CD-8230-A86D7CBD9F80@gdhs.com>

J&E = 3.5.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 3, 2013, at 7:36 PM, "Spitfire Racing" <spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> I use them in a Spitfire and went with Venolia's recommendation. Been
> running them for the past 6 years. No problem handling 8K+
>
> Russ Moore
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Davis
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 6:03 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Venolia pistons
>
> I use them at 6 thousandths. Venolia's recommendation. Building an engine
> with them right now.
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/3/13 1:43 PM, Dennis DeLap wrote:
>> A M I C I
>> Anyone out there ever used Venolia pistons in their tractor motor?
>> I am looking for clearance specs.
>> Thanks
>> D
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From igofaster at att.net  Fri May  3 20:18:34 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 19:18:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing
In-Reply-To: <86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
References: <1367534440.59176.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<86D73C55-824C-4CB1-90C2-EFE179BFBAD1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1367633914.12878.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I was excited I was sub 2:00 a couple of laps...I came around the Panoz on the 
inside of the back straight and got four off again...at THAT point I felt like I 
was driving beyond my limits  so I came in before the 18 laps was completed... I 
call it under-steer but I think the tires were just slippery at that point...
I did come up to the Panoz driver after the fact and apologized for the 'bone 
head' move because I didn't want to be known as 'that guy' who doesn't have a 
clue...all for naught though....as I was appreciated for even trying to 
apologize..

Bobby
To: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 2, 2013 7:04:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] NOT Triumph BUT racing

Congrats Bobby, I hope you still have all your fenders. GT2 is a great class.
I always thought four off meant off the ground. Now I gotta figure out that 
black flag thingie.
So, how did you do?
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> My first SCCA racing weekend in the GT2 .. hope it's okay to share with the 
> group...
> APPARENTLY in SCCA if you get 4 off you can keep racing... I've always been 
> trained to come into the hot pits and get my finger wagging sermon about 
> 'maintaining control' ...  
> 
> 
> Bobby Whitehead
> 
> http://youtu.be/vbgM7MKrDt8
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May  6 07:59:26 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 09:59:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
Message-ID: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>

Amici...

Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at 
Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some thirty 
students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full house at 
Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very good.

Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
traditional first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
don't build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
prep races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown races. 
 My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I bet on 
GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the sloppy 
track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep up with 
the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I picked 
to run third won the Derby and looked great.

Maybe I'll give building engines a try.

Bill (Damdinger)


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May  6 08:34:41 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 14:34:41 +0000
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
In-Reply-To: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>
References: <7d00.423a125d.3eb9113e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A895E@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once!  Very
windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember having a
cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.

There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones.  I was
fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the only
Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and Tim/Ryan Murphy
and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)

Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car and did
the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!

Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get by him
once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...

Amici...

Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some thirty
students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full house
at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very good.

Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its traditional
first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I don't
build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the prep
races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown races.
 My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I bet on
GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the sloppy
track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep up with
the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I picked to
run third won the Derby and looked great.

Maybe I'll give building engines a try.

Bill (Damdinger)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May  6 09:11:30 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 15:11:30 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A8AC2@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

So, one of the features of Gingerman, as revised, is a long, long left-hand
sweeper, which invites the driver to slide the car through as fast has he/she
feels is appropriate.  It's  a little like Road America's carousel, I'd say,
but downhill and off-camber in places, lumpier, and not quite so uniform
somehow.

Anyway, I noticed the Spit rear suspension "bucking" a little as I ran through
there.  That's the best way I can describe it.  I'd be sliding the car through
there and the rear would catch and hop just a little.  Spooky feeling.  I
would prefer it didn't do this at that sort of speed.

Any good ideas of where to start with this?  Is it likely the tire is rolling
over too much?  Dreaded swing-axle tuck?  I thought about mounting my GoPro
under there to see what can be seen, ala Chris Marx.

Scott B.


From mmoore at wave1.net  Mon May  6 11:01:24 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 13:01:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 alignment
Message-ID: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>

I am going to have my local shop check the alignment on my TR4, without
sounding too naive, are there basic specs that I should give him for neutral
handling (excepting camber) or do I let him use the specs in his computer.

 

 

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May  6 11:06:39 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 17:06:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202A8AC2@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <252133933.1400956.1367859999750.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Scott,

Downhill, off camber and lumpy suggest the rear end is unloading periodically
over the lumpy bits.

Assuming your tire pressures and spring rates are already dialedB  IB  wouldB 
tighten up the rebound

dampening on the rear shocks but I don't know if you have that adjustment on
yours.

If you can't adjust just the rebound then just a stiffer overall setting may
settle it down.

Tightening up the rear sway bar a smidge may help too.

Downhill & off camber you also may need to look at the front end to make sure
some excessive dive

or roll isn't upsetting a normally well behaving rear e nd.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Scott Barr" <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 6, 2013 9:11:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire rear suspension

So, one of the features of Gingerman, as revised, is a long, long left-hand
sweeper, which invites the driver to slide the car through as fast has he/she
feels is appropriate. B It's B a little like Road America's carousel, I'd say,
but downhill and off-camber in places, lumpier, and not quite so uniform
somehow.

Anyway, I noticed the Spit rear suspension "bucking" a little as I ran through
there. B That's the best way I can describe it. B I'd be sliding the car
through
there and the rear would catch and hop just a little. B Spooky feeling. B I
would prefer it didn't do this at that sort of speed.

Any good ideas of where to start with this? B Is it likely the tire is rolling
over too much? B Dreaded swing-axle tuck? B I thought about mounting my GoPro
under there to see what can be seen, ala Chris Marx.

Scott B.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon May  6 11:10:21 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 07:10:21 -1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 alignment
In-Reply-To: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>
References: <005701ce4a7b$57bd4e20$0737ea60$@net>
Message-ID: <4E41E2AF-B978-4D93-93E1-B432CF8473A7@bnj.com>

Are you going to race it, or drive it on radials, or do you plan to street
drive it on skinny bias-ply tires.

On May 6, 2013, at 7:01 AM, "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net> wrote:

> I am going to have my local shop check the alignment on my TR4, without
> sounding too naive, are there basic specs that I should give him for
neutral
> handling (excepting camber) or do I let him use the specs in his computer.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Mon May  6 15:12:33 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 16:12:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC8FECD9-34BF-4D1F-AE5E-28BF7901B28E@comcast.net>
	<CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>

Finally cleaning out the backlog of my FOT emails. Figured I'd throw my
long drive stories out there. Had a 1980 TR7 convertible and went from
Indianapolis, IN back to my parents in Kingston NY, drove all over the
Catskills and Adirondacks and back in about a week and a half. Well over 2k
miles of driving. Also drove a TR4 from Indy to the UP of MI, then down to
a really big lake in KY, (Cumberland?) within 2 days, sailed on a houseboat
on that lake for a week, then drove from there to Montreal for the GP. Then
down to Kingston again, then back to Indy. No clue what the miles were. For
some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph Spitfire.
Mike


On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:20 PM, robert bownes <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> I think the original question was about race hours rather than road
> trips...But if you are going to talk road trips...
>
> Albany, NY to Dallas Tx for the 1989 VTR meet. Nonstop in the TR6. top
> down. Race in Dallas (win), pick up buddy at airport, drive to
> Minneapolis/St. Paul over 1.5 days (top down), spend 2 days in MSP, then
> non stop MSP->ALB some of it in the rain. Total somewhere in the
> neighborhood of 3400 miles in about 8 days. Was an epic road trip that can
> only be pulled off in college. ;)
>
>
> Plenty of other great road trips in that car... All with a race
> destination. My favourite is still autox on the streets of Waterloo, Iowa.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Vintage Racer
> <vintage.racer at comcast.net>wrote:
>
> > During Spring break from college in 1966, a good friend and I decided to
> > drive
> > my 1959 TR3 from the San Francisco Bay Area to Guaymas, Mexico which is
> due
> > south of Nogales.  Guaymas was a very small fishing village on the Gulf
> of
> > California and the only plans we made were to camp on a yet to be
> > determined
> > beach during our week stay.  In order to pack camping essentials and our
> > clothes we had to leave the side curtains behind due to lack of storage
> > space.
> > We left early one morning and arrived in Guaymas the evening of the
> second
> > day.  We alternated driving at each gas stop.  On our third morning we
> were
> > surprised to see two of our dorm mates driving towards the same beach
> > where we
> > were headed.  We joined forces and had an enjoyable time bumming around
> the
> > area.  The drive home was made in two days but the TR required a quart of
> > oil
> > at every gas stop.  Other than that, the car never missed a beat over the
> > 2300
> > miles we covered.  That summer, my father and I rebuilt the TR's
> > engine..great
> > little car but I sure appreciated the roll up windows on my friends new
> > TR4 he
> > acquired shortly after our return.
> >
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com


From 58tr3a at videotron.ca  Mon May  6 16:20:32 2013
From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don TR)
Date: Mon, 06 May 2013 18:20:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive
In-Reply-To: <CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC8FECD9-34BF-4D1F-AE5E-28BF7901B28E@comcast.net>
	<CAJ1+nOTiC=zPwtHCsxD45m_xGjUozW_eSo0C2Bzg5oBeibX80Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAD0VeVtH5srg_BDobxp6Tvwuz3p3kvenSLNF9UUxbXrJL2vpAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C089F21578F24B8485D945146DD01771@DonPC>

As for the longest drive in my 1958 TR3A which I bought brand new in May,
1958, I drove a total of 7300 "touring" miles from Montreal to VTR in
Portland Oregon in 2000 and then back home.

Back about 1960 to 1963, I rallied my TR3A extensively and it was nothing
unusual to have a 500 or 600 mile rally.  Most was navigational, but during
the night sections, we had some spirited speeds to try to meet - not to be
late at the next control.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
Montreal, Canada

PS - I have driven "TRusty" over 110,000 miles since I did the full
restoration from 1987 to 1990.  In 2007, VTR gave me 384 points out of 400
in the judged concourse after having driven 94,000 miles since it was
restored.
---------------------------------------------------------------

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Jankowski
Sent: May-06-13 5:13 PM
To: robert bownes
Cc: FOT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Longest Drive

Finally cleaning out the backlog of my FOT emails. Figured I'd throw my
long drive stories out there. Had a 1980 TR7 convertible and went from
Indianapolis, IN back to my parents in Kingston NY, drove all over the
Catskills and Adirondacks and back in about a week and a half. Well over 2k
miles of driving. Also drove a TR4 from Indy to the UP of MI, then down to
a really big lake in KY, (Cumberland?) within 2 days, sailed on a houseboat
on that lake for a week, then drove from there to Montreal for the GP. Then
down to Kingston again, then back to Indy. No clue what the miles were. For
some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph Spitfire.
Mike


On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 10:20 PM, robert bownes <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> I think the original question was about race hours rather than road
> trips...But if you are going to talk road trips...
>
> Albany, NY to Dallas Tx for the 1989 VTR meet. Nonstop in the TR6. top
> down. Race in Dallas (win), pick up buddy at airport, drive to
> Minneapolis/St. Paul over 1.5 days (top down), spend 2 days in MSP, then
> non stop MSP->ALB some of it in the rain. Total somewhere in the
> neighborhood of 3400 miles in about 8 days. Was an epic road trip that can
> only be pulled off in college. ;)
>
>
> Plenty of other great road trips in that car... All with a race
> destination. My favourite is still autox on the streets of Waterloo, Iowa.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 26, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Vintage Racer
> <vintage.racer at comcast.net>wrote:
>
> > During Spring break from college in 1966, a good friend and I decided to
> > drive
> > my 1959 TR3 from the San Francisco Bay Area to Guaymas, Mexico which is
> due
> > south of Nogales.  Guaymas was a very small fishing village on the Gulf
> of
> > California and the only plans we made were to camp on a yet to be
> > determined
> > beach during our week stay.  In order to pack camping essentials and our
> > clothes we had to leave the side curtains behind due to lack of storage
> > space.
> > We left early one morning and arrived in Guaymas the evening of the
> second
> > day.  We alternated driving at each gas stop.  On our third morning we
> were
> > surprised to see two of our dorm mates driving towards the same beach
> > where we
> > were headed.  We joined forces and had an enjoyable time bumming around
> the
> > area.  The drive home was made in two days but the TR required a quart
of
> > oil
> > at every gas stop.  Other than that, the car never missed a beat over
the
> > 2300
> > miles we covered.  That summer, my father and I rebuilt the TR's
> > engine..great
> > little car but I sure appreciated the roll up windows on my friends new
> > TR4 he
> > acquired shortly after our return.
> >
> > Gary
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/58tr3a at videotron.ca


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May  6 18:48:06 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:48:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 cylinder head water jacket plug fix
Message-ID: <690E36F4-F097-4D40-85BF-61B2390636A3@comcast.net>

The subject line pretty much states the problem. Is there
A good procedure for getting the old one out ?
Tony's site says to tap it for an npt plug.
Has any one done this while the head is on the car?
Thanks as always,
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone


From jkhagen at charter.net  Mon May  6 18:54:50 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:54:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
Message-ID: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>

Thanks to Scott Barr for coming over and saying hi--had fun with him and 
the Green TR-4.  VSCDA does a great job it instructors -one on one for 
over 30 guys! Our buddy Steve Nichols got his ticket--can't wipe the 
smile off!--John Hagen


On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once! 
> Very
> windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember 
> having a
> cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.
>
> There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones. 
> I was
> fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the 
> only
> Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and 
> Tim/Ryan Murphy
> and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)
>
> Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car 
> and did
> the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!
>
> Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get 
> by him
> once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On Behalf
> Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
>
> Amici...
>
> Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
> Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some 
> thirty
> students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full 
> house
> at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very 
> good.
>
> Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
> traditional
> first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
> don't
> build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
> prep
> races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown 
> races.
>  My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I 
> bet on
> GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the 
> sloppy
> track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep 
> up with
> the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I 
> picked to
> run third won the Derby and looked great.
>
> Maybe I'll give building engines a try.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon May  6 20:33:38 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 21:33:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
In-Reply-To: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <7ac403d4.785b03.13e7c7bd658.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000601ce4acb$48c723f0$da556bd0$@com>

Like Scott said, it was a great weekend other than my knee problem.  I had
done a little test run on our Town roads and thought the knee would be okay.
At first at the track I thought maybe the new brake pads just weren't
grabbing very well but soon realized that I just didn't have enough strength
in my "new" knee.  Like has been said many times before, there is nothing
like being on the track and running with other cars except actually doing
it.  But VSCDA was very accommodating and Ryan did make the team proud!!
 We had modified the suspension to give the appropriate camber for the
Hoosier radials and it made a big improvement in the handling.  That plus
the increase in power from my recent rebuild gave me the opportunity to
experience power oversteer coming out of turn three and taking a ride
through the grass!  We adjusted tire pressures to try to give a bit less
oversteer now that the fronts were gripping better and it occurred to me
that out pressures seemed a bit high.  I called Tony Drews and he confirmed
that our pressures were too high and gave us a recommendation for the
conditions we were experiencing.  We made that adjustment and on Sunday warm
up Ryan reported that we were back to our mostly neutral handling with the
rear of the car starting to drift out and helping to rotate rather than
tending to understeer to the outside of the track.  Thanks again to Tony for
helping a fellow racer!!!

Tim & Ryan
#317 TR4 BRG

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jkhagen at charter.net
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 7:55 PM
To: Barr, Scott
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...

Thanks to Scott Barr for coming over and saying hi--had fun with him and 
the Green TR-4.  VSCDA does a great job it instructors -one on one for 
over 30 guys! Our buddy Steve Nichols got his ticket--can't wipe the 
smile off!--John Hagen


On Mon, May 6, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Barr, Scott wrote:

> It really was a great weekend.  The weather even cooperated for once! 
> Very
> windy at times, though - this was the first time I ever remember 
> having a
> cross-wind hit me in the face behind my full stock windscreen.
>
> There were about a million Spridgets there, and some really FAST ones. 
> I was
> fortunate to run mid-pack in Group 2.  For better or worse, I was the 
> only
> Spitfire there (other than a cornerworker's lovely Spit4), and 
> Tim/Ryan Murphy
> and Bob Wismer were the only TR4s.  (I didn't miss anyone, did I?)
>
> Tim's bionic knee was giving him trouble, but Ryan jumped in the car 
> and did
> the team proud.  Very nice drive, Ryan!
>
> Had a great time chasing John Hagen's TVR around.  Even managed to get 
> by him
> once or twice, but couldn't make it stick.
>
> Scott B.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On Behalf
> Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:59 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] VSCDA @ Gingerman Raceway...
>
> Amici...
>
> Bob Wismer tells me that VSCDA's annual opening event (and School) at
> Gingerman Raceway this past week end was a big success.  He said some 
> thirty
> students, and over one hundred twenty racers showed up.  That's a full 
> house
> at Gingerman, and a good sign for the state of affairs.  All very 
> good.
>
> Gingerman is the only VSCDA event that I have never attended.  Its 
> traditional
> first week end in May dates conflict with the Kentucky Derby.  While I 
> don't
> build my own engines, I do spend a half a year handicapping all of the 
> prep
> races and getting ready for the Derby and the other Triple Crown 
> races.
>  My handicapping suggested VERRAZANO would win.  He came in 15th.  I 
> bet on
> GOLDENCENTS, a front runner who appeared to be a better bet on the 
> sloppy
> track.  He virtually quit (18th) after finding out he could not keep 
> up with
> the torrid pace of early race leader PALACE MALICE.  ORB, a horse I 
> picked to
> run third won the Derby and looked great.
>
> Maybe I'll give building engines a try.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From joeg at neb.rr.com  Tue May  7 12:50:32 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 13:50:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive (Mike Jankowski)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>

If you ever start planning that trip - get in touch with me and I'll send
you a copy of The North American Spitfire Squadron's glove box companion -
"The MASH Book".  MASH is the Mobile Army of Spitfire Helpers.  We've had a
few guys do coast-to-coast tours and the MASH book is nice to have with you.
Handy even if you're just doing a short tour out of your own area.  It's a
list of "willing to assist" Spitfire owners who have shops, tools, trailers,
etc.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

-----------------------Original Message Snip-----------------------------
For some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph
Spitfire.
Mike


From my71spit13 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 13:02:22 2013
From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:02:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
Message-ID: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For the
first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the back
end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on what
may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs smooth
and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
 left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
Thank you in advance!!!
 
Shawn Frank
Continued Legacy
Drive Away Cancer Iowa
515-339-4228


From spitlist at cox.net  Tue May  7 13:09:31 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>

Sounds like a fuel tank issue.  If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
outlet.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Shawn Frank
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
To: Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns

I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
the
first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
back
end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
what
may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs smooth
and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
 left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
Thank you in advance!!!
 
Shawn Frank
Continued Legacy
Drive Away Cancer Iowa
515-339-4228
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From clw2000 at msn.com  Tue May  7 13:23:04 2013
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Chuck WATSON)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:23:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>
References: <1367953342.34320.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>,
	<30FF19F26EC049B7B7089C8B1177A66A@Vista>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue May  7 13:30:54 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 19:30:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel supply
as the g-force of the turn

swings the floats and shuts the float valve.

Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that you
could orient front/rear instead of left/right.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Tue May  7 13:30:56 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 19:30:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W128C9D4A04696D3CEB37FCBFBA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <463644229.1443838.1367955056342.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel supply
as the g-force of the turn

swings the floats and shuts the float valve.

Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that you
could orient front/rear instead of left/right.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns

Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the bowls.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson









> From: spitlist at cox.net
> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
> outlet.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
> To: Friends of Triumph
> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
> the
> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for a
> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires, I
> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
> back
> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate it
> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every time
> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
> what
> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is no
> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
smooth
> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
> Thank you in advance!!!
>
> Shawn Frank
> Continued Legacy
> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
> 515-339-4228
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Tue May  7 14:20:25 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:20:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive (Mike Jankowski)
In-Reply-To: <005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.9.1367949601.26063.fot@autox.team.net>
	<005701ce4b53$c11c01d0$43540570$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVvHRQ4aAVm627_7OGwRqEekSN5=XnyPq11Og14LU0aiyw@mail.gmail.com>

Oh cool!!!! Thank you!!!!!!


On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 1:50 PM, Joe Guinan <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> If you ever start planning that trip - get in touch with me and I'll send
> you a copy of The North American Spitfire Squadron's glove box companion -
> "The MASH Book".  MASH is the Mobile Army of Spitfire Helpers.  We've had a
> few guys do coast-to-coast tours and the MASH book is nice to have with
> you.
> Handy even if you're just doing a short tour out of your own area.  It's a
> list of "willing to assist" Spitfire owners who have shops, tools,
> trailers,
> etc.
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
>
> -----------------------Original Message Snip-----------------------------
> For some reason I want to do another epic drive in my current Triumph
> Spitfire.
> Mike


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 14:35:31 2013
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 13:35:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
In-Reply-To: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>

There may be another issue in terms of fuel line setup and pressure. I am
running 3.5 psi and have one line running to the front bowl and a fuel line
from the front bowl to the back. I see other configurations, but this is what
works for me. Do you run your fuel lines in the same manner or have separate
lines to each carb?

Question for the group. I believe the fuel line setup I have is the stock
configuration. Is there any benefit or detriment to setting the lines up this
way?  Is there a reason why Triumph ran he fuel line this way?

Also, I pulled a stock tank out of a second TR4 I own. It had 4 one inch
landscape rocks in the tank.  If you are running a stock tank, it is worth a
look see. In this case, someone must have made someone else pretty mad years
ago!

I can send you the float lid numbers if needed.

Ty

Sent from my iPhone



On May 7, 2013, at 12:30 PM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:

> If your running SU's then its definetly the floats cutting off the fuel
supply
> as the g-force of the turn
>
> swings the floats and shuts the float valve.
>
> Ty Thompson fixed it with what I recall were MG float bowl adapters B that
you
> could orient front/rear instead of left/right.
>
> jim g
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> From: "Chuck WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
> To: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 1:23:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>
> Also, if you are running Strombergs you might want to check your float
> mechanisms to make sure full motion is in place to completely fill the
bowls.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Watson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: spitlist at cox.net
>> To: my71spit13 at yahoo.com; FOT at autox.team.net
>> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:09:31 -0700
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>>
>> Sounds like a fuel tank issue. If you have the fuel pickup in the side of
>> the tank rather than the bottom or rear, it could indeed be starving for
>> fuel when the direction of the turn is throwing the fuel away from the
>> outlet.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Shawn Frank
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 12:02 PM
>> To: Friends of Triumph
>> Subject: [Fot] Stalling left turns
>>
>> I have yet to get out to an autocross event here in Iowa, due to snow and
>> schedules, but have been able to get my 71 Spitfire out on the street. For
>> the
>> first drive of the season, I thought I would drive it like I stole it for
a
>> few minutes. While tearing the side tread off my cheap shop roller tires,
I
>> took a left turn and the whole thing stalled out, regaining idle once the
>> back
>> end stopped turning. It did this a few times at the end of the season last
>> year, so the seasonal rest is not the culprit. I have tried to replicate
it
>> with abrupt right turns, but it does just fine. It does it about every
time
>> turning left. It seems to do it once it is warmed up. It is still carb,
>> points, mechanical fuel pump, everything stock but rebuilt. Any ideas on
>> what
>> may be the problem? I can go around corners at normal speed and there is
no
>> indications of a sputter or stall. Her name is Gertrude, and she runs
> smooth
>> and true until she wants to get tail happy turning
>> left, but like I said regains power once settled down. Help if possible!
>> Thank you in advance!!!
>>
>> Shawn Frank
>> Continued Legacy
>> Drive Away Cancer Iowa
>> 515-339-4228
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue May  7 14:43:24 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 22:43:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Engine run - 2nd try
In-Reply-To: <42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>
References: <1907524963.1443835.1367955054408.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<42CB8E80-43BD-4BDB-854E-434DE0203680@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004101ce4b63$85f69ba0$91e3d2e0$@com>

One week ago I started my new build engine, drove out of town when the
engine freezed.
The crank was stuck on main #3.

Now, after making engine parts in a hurry the engine gave the first sound
again today.
Hope the 2nd try will be more successful.

http://youtu.be/wC12CVtMOgA

Cheers
Chris


From bld4139 at aol.com  Wed May  8 07:32:03 2013
From: bld4139 at aol.com (bld4139 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 09:32:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] hi!
Message-ID: <8D01A078F5CB93A-2340-1D46F@webmail-m265.sysops.aol.com>

http://ebridge.sk/brain.php?clzbn821xc
































































































**********************
I am not pregnant... I just accidentally swallowed a football.


From keithfiles at btinternet.com  Wed May  8 07:44:55 2013
From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 14:44:55 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Renault Clio Cup Round 4 from Donington Park Apr 2013 -
	YouTube
Message-ID: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>

Dear all, thought you might like to see what my son gets up to in the UK,
enjoy

Keith

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VUCjkJxEMJc


From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Thu May  9 14:10:36 2013
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 16:10:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement
Message-ID: <15f4e845.4210b.13e8aeab2b2.Webtop.8@optonline.net>

Friends,

Would someone please take a measurement of a TR3 engine and trans combo?

I need from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point, I guess the 
valve cover fill cap. (Overall height)
Also from the front, including the fan, to the rear of the transmission 
yoke.  (Overall length)

Thanks in advance.

Todd Redmond
TS 29341


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:39:38 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:39:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Looking for Rick Cline
Message-ID: <BLU176-W17470FCBECAC675888D234DAA40@phx.gbl>

Anyone have Rick Cline's current e-mail address?  When they converted hotmail
to outlook, they dumped my contact list.  I wish to hell they'd stop
"improving" things!

Fred Hodgson


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:53:50 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:53:50 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rick Cline's e-mail
Message-ID: <BLU176-DS148DAF550CE9460C809CAADAA40@phx.gbl>

Thanks guys.

Fred Hodgson


From stlnyc at msn.com  Thu May  9 14:58:28 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:58:28 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rick Cline's e-mail
Message-ID: <BLU176-DS15B8252845FA3A7F0D36FBDAA40@phx.gbl>

Thanks guys.

Fred Hodgson


From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May  9 14:53:44 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 15:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
Message-ID: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>

A local engine builder has recommended that the
2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
cannot figure out any benefit.

Any thoughts from this group?

art de armond


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May  9 16:18:15 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 22:18:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement
In-Reply-To: <15f4e845.4210b.13e8aeab2b2.Webtop.8@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <161268269.1523127.1368137895436.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If you plan to use roller rockers plan for a taller valve cover than stock,
just fyi.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Todd Redmond" <alfetta95 at optonline.net>
To: "FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net" <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 2:10:36 PM
Subject: [Fot] Engine-Trans Measurement

Friends,

Would someone please take a measurement of a TR3 engine and trans combo?

I need from the bottom of the oil pan to the highest point, I guess the
valve cover fill cap. (Overall height)
Also from the front, including the fan, to the rear of the transmission
yoke. B (Overall length)

Thanks in advance.

Todd Redmond
TS 29341
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mmoore at wave1.net  Thu May  9 18:01:14 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 20:01:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May  9 18:47:50 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 20:47:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <E3EE310069584D8DAC5A8D5E04857762@hpd530>

Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the 
back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the 
bellhousing.
If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the 
clutch.
Like I said, not sure about a 4.
Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
Good luck, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help


> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
>
>
> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
> new
> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
>
>
> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
> way
> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
> won't come back up.
>
>
>
> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May  9 18:56:21 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 20:56:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <C907091C696C45F9A39BF18C2037A878@hpd530>

P.S.
Various places sell an adjustable pushrod for the clutch.
If you want to drive down to Cambridge Springs tomorrow I have a spare I'll 
let you try.
Bill
1.4 miles south of Campbell's Pottery.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help


> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
>
>
> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
> new
> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
>
>
> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
> way
> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
> won't come back up.
>
>
>
> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Thu May  9 19:04:47 2013
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 11:04:47 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Mike,
Sounds like the thrust bearing sleeve is moving too far forward and then
locking up on the gearbox nose that guides the clutch thrust bearing
carrier.


Cheers..

Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Friday, 10 May 2013 10:01 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From jason at multivintage.com  Thu May  9 19:17:03 2013
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 01:17:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <mailman.238.1638252579.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I would be most interested in what the slave is actually doing when you press the peddle. At least That will tell you if its 'before' or 'after' that point.
J.O. FGR. 
------Original Message------
From: Mike Moore
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Sent: May 9, 2013 7:01 PM

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.

 

I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.

 

With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.

 

I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.

 

Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com



Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


From sjanzen at me.com  Thu May  9 19:24:38 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 21:24:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <000601ce4d11$7d6ecfc0$784c6f40$@net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANx2ozBkxg9FrmnP8ONMUpwBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <9EC94E7A-8057-4A30-88AF-9C1468268825@me.com>

get someone to push on the pedal while you look at the slave.  You should
immediately see clutch lever actuator movement at the transmission.  If you
don't, and the air is out, adjust the rods.  Question - was there any problem
before you replaced the master - I hate to suggest the possibility that the
tapered pin in the cross shaft is sheared (inside the bell housing) . . .
To Peter's comment, there are two different length "noses" for these
transmissions, but if it was working before with the same size master and
slave, nothing should have changed.

On May 9, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Peter Vucinic wrote:

Mike,
Sounds like the thrust bearing sleeve is moving too far forward and then
locking up on the gearbox nose that guides the clutch thrust bearing
carrier.


Cheers..

Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Friday, 10 May 2013 10:01 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help

This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.



I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.



With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.



I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.



Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu May  9 20:14:32 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04)
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 19:14:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <345ggxibq3go3ci6nve8qetg.1368151952638@email.android.com>

What are you running for a clutch? Any chance you overextended the pressure plate?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone

Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net> wrote:

>This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>
> 
>
>I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
>slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>
> 
>
>With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
>to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>won't come back up.
>
> 
>
>I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>
> 
>
>Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>
> 
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>
> 
>
>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
>2007 West 32nd Street
>
>Erie, PA 16508
>
> 
>
>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
>Fax:        814-864-7383
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow04 at tr4racer.com


From mmoore at wave1.net  Fri May 10 07:41:45 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:41:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Thrust angle
Message-ID: <000301ce4d84$1d37c8a0$57a759e0$@net>

I just had my racing TR4 aligned.

 

Thrust angle is 48. They told me it should be less than 30. Is this enough
to make an adjustment for?

 

My thought was to elongate the hole on the plate under rear axle so I can
shift it slightly. They said an 1/8" would be enough.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Fri May 10 10:50:44 2013
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 09:50:44 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
Message-ID: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.

~Steve



-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>To: Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net>, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the 
>back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the 
>bellhousing.
>If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the 
>clutch.
>Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>Good luck, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
>To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>
>> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>>
>>
>>
>> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and 
>> new
>> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>>
>>
>>
>> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the 
>> way
>> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>> won't come back up.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>>
>>
>>
>> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>> Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri May 10 11:03:26 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 10:03:26 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
In-Reply-To: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <15899927.1368204644406.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <21369F78-EFA7-4D22-8215-AB64E165A94B@bnj.com>

It's easy to overstroke aftermarket clutches. When you do you often crack out
the center boss. You have to know what the maximum stroke is and make sure you
have a stop or a properly sized MC/SC ratio to ensure you can't stroke past
that far. The pushrod needs to be loose enough to turn freely to make sure
you're not putting continuous pressure on the thrust bearings, and make sure
if you replaced the MC with an aftermarket product that it doesn't have a
residual pressure valve built into it. If it does you have to take it out or
the clutch will be impossible to adjuts and you'll toast the thrust bearings.
Bleed the system carefully, adjust the pushrod, and it should be fine.

Speedbleeders work really well, cheap, easy to install, and they let you get
some good quick pumps to carry out the stubborn bubbles.
On May 10, 2013, at 9:50 AM, steve <colordog.1 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.
>
> ~Steve
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bill Tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>> Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>> To: Mike Moore <mmoore at wave1.net>, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>>
>> Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the
>> back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the
>> bellhousing.
>> If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the
>> clutch.
>> Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>> Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>> Good luck, Bill
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
>> To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>>
>>
>>> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and
>>> new
>>> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the
>>> way
>>> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>>> won't come back up.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>>
>>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>>
>>> Erie, PA 16508
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>>
>>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From gaf3 at charter.net  Fri May 10 11:05:47 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:05:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
Message-ID: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>

Group
Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of 
spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 
(trans and O/D) for a quick swap later.
The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is 
different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
Thanks in advance
Glenn


From joeg at neb.rr.com  Fri May 10 12:58:05 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:58:05 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>

Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing has an event at High Plains Raceway on May 18
& 19.  South of Fort Morgan, East of Denver.  I'm tagging along with a
friend who's running a Sprite, and a couple other local Brit Car Club
members. Wondering if there will be any other FOT members that I can
bother...

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska


From igofaster at att.net  Fri May 10 14:01:20 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:01:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] high volume oil pump
Message-ID: <1368216080.99297.YahooMailRC@web182205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

wondering if there is a need or a source for a high volume oil pump for the 
GT6.. apparently the engine I'm building referenced a late model GT6 with the 
8.5 compression ratio... we're getting close to having an engine for the 
GT6...forged rods forged pistons... zero deck... my head and cam survived Road 
Atlanta so at least I have THAT....
God Bless F.o.T.    Bobby Whitehead


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri May 10 14:02:05 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (James Gray)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:02:05 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
In-Reply-To: <00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.12.1368208802.7235.fot@autox.team.net>
	<00b701ce4db0$4e415390$eac3fab0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3BF8BDEB-E853-46D0-8BCC-86CC3513EE35@comcast.net>

Yes,
There will be 5 Tr4's and one spitfire.
We will be at the west end of the carports.
Jim g

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 12:58 PM, "Joe Guinan" <joeg at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing has an event at High Plains Raceway on May 18
> & 19.  South of Fort Morgan, East of Denver.  I'm tagging along with a
> friend who's running a Sprite, and a couple other local Brit Car Club
> members. Wondering if there will be any other FOT members that I can
> bother...
>
> Joe Guinan
> Fremont, Nebraska
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From stlnyc at msn.com  Fri May 10 14:10:11 2013
From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred and Mary Hodgson)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:10:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] looking for GT6Steve
Message-ID: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>

Need info on your rear axle conversion for GT6+


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri May 10 15:01:16 2013
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 17:01:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] looking for GT6Steve
In-Reply-To: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU176-W46379AC563B70DB108E0C7DAA50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT403-EAS5726488FE49B8AF6AE48D5B2A50@phx.gbl>

I'd be interested in hearing about that conversion too please.   I have 2
gt6+. I'd consider it for.  THX

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-05-10, at 4:10 PM, "Fred and Mary Hodgson" <stlnyc at msn.com> wrote:

> Need info on your rear axle conversion for GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 10 18:31:12 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:31:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 glove box door
Message-ID: <572197.60188.bm@smtp112.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

A M I C I
I am building another Triumph based race car.  I like to use the steel
dashboards from the TR4, and I have one of those.
I am missing the glove box door - does anyone have one to sell?
Thanks
Dennis


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Fri May 10 18:37:37 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:37:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
Message-ID: <71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Glenn,
This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is thicker.
The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as the
earlier flange.

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Glenn Franco
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4

Group
Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 (trans
and O/D) for a quick swap later.
The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
Thanks in advance
Glenn
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 18:40:00 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:40:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Renault Clio Cup Round 4 from Donington Park Apr 2013 -
 YouTube
In-Reply-To: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>
References: <17EB300D-CC4C-4D92-BE35-9BA0616696D3@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.239.1638252579.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Wow.  That was a great drive by Josh!  You must be proud.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 08:44 AM 5/8/2013, Keith Files wrote:
>Dear all, thought you might like to see what my son gets up to in the UK,
>enjoy
>
>Keith
>
>http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VUCjkJxEMJc
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 18:40:57 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:40:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <mailman.240.1638252579.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Doesn't sound right to me.

Tony Drews

At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>A local engine builder has recommended that the
>2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
>the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>cannot figure out any benefit.
>
>Any thoughts from this group?
>
>art de armond
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri May 10 19:04:50 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 18:04:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <20130511004336.9CF4442570@autox.team.net>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
	<20130511004336.9CF4442570@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <99DFFF1A-C5C5-45CC-947E-DBA8D85A79B3@bnj.com>

It's backwards. Some engine builders do a little more gap on the top ring
because it gets hotter. All the end gap is for is to prevent the ring from
pushing hard on itself when it expands. Sounds to me like you have a weird
engine builder.


On May 10, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Doesn't sound right to me.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>> A local engine builder has recommended that the
>> 2nd compression ring have a larger end gap than
>> the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>> cannot figure out any benefit.
>>
>> Any thoughts from this group?
>>
>> art de armond
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May 10 19:12:46 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 20:12:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
	<71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.241.1638252579.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

May need to slot the rear mounts a bit to get things to line up too, 
although I didn't need to.

Tony Drews

At 07:37 PM 5/10/2013, Steve Yott wrote:
>Glenn,
>This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
>of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
>longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is thicker.
>The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
>stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as the
>earlier flange.
>
>Steve Yott
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Glenn Franco
>Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
>To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
>
>Group
>Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
>I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
>spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2 (trans
>and O/D) for a quick swap later.
>The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
>different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
>Thanks in advance
>Glenn
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 10 19:39:33 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 21:39:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <BLU168-W607E5B7BA43218EEBFD4CBAA60@phx.gbl>

While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to install
in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's the oil of
choice in these? Street car.

Thanks,


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri May 10 19:42:12 2013
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (K LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 19:42:12 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing at High Plains Raceway
Message-ID: <BLU178-DS151D7D85766F034732A981B7A60@phx.gbl>

Hi Joe, feel free to pop into 'Control' and say hello...

Kev Lynch
Race Steward


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Fri May 10 19:53:48 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 20:53:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W607E5B7BA43218EEBFD4CBAA60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <51.A7.06694.0B4AD815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

I have used Redline MT90 exclusively for many years (about 50 gearbox builds
without any issues with either the A or J overdrives.  This oil foams less
than all the others I ever tested and foam does not lubricate!  Expensive
but worth it!

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 8:40 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif

While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to
install in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's
the oil of choice in these? Street car.

Thanks,
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com


From kaskastner at gmail.com  Fri May 10 19:57:45 2013
From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 18:57:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Ring end gaps
Message-ID: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>

If you leave the second compression ring on the bench and do not fit it
like I did, then you have no worry about the gaps.

*Never be beaten by equipment.*


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May 10 20:11:05 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 22:11:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Ring end gaps
In-Reply-To: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGiQU1BRfOsO4h4jQUuuNhGvnTahEG=QgYKe2w0t0D9cvg-RJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ED9910AC-F7B8-4F6B-B4DB-42A6DE5F984A@gdhs.com>

Ah!  Just like the MT 125 Honda road racer I tuned I'm the 70's.  It had moto
cross air cooled single cyl engine with 3 rings. I just used the top,
compression ring.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 9:57 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskastner at gmail.com> wrote:

> If you leave the second compression ring on the bench and do not fit it
> like I did, then you have no worry about the gaps.
>
> *Never be beaten by equipment.*
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 10 20:18:52 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 21:18:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR Trip to East Coast
Message-ID: <A54548BB-130D-422B-B5BC-292CA3C6AE68@cs.com>

Sent from my iPad
Small world.....had a meeting with guy in Newark, NJ. Former SoCal guy. Knew
Dunst, Smock, Burroughs, and more.

TRIUMPH TRS.    One of the historic Le Mans Triumphs is being restored in near
Armagh, PA. It is well on its way to a meticulous and faithful restoration. It
was great to see it.


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri May 10 20:19:39 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 22:19:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
In-Reply-To: <20130511011529.C137F425A4@autox.team.net>
References: <518D28EB.5060902@charter.net>
	<71.C6.12729.5D29D815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<20130511011529.C137F425A4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <40D3AF47-46DD-4C47-B8AF-F3DDA12D2DCF@gdhs.com>

Tony , Henry  .....I am going to Watkins Glen 6/7; so won't make
Summit.....hope to see you guys at Mid Ohio for another "blanket" race!
Sent from my iPhone

On May 10, 2013, at 9:12 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> May need to slot the rear mounts a bit to get things to line up too,
although I didn't need to.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 07:37 PM 5/10/2013, Steve Yott wrote:
>> Glenn,
>> This is a very common swap and will actually be a better setup as the case
>> of the TR6 gearbox is stronger than a TR4 box.  You most likely will need
>> longer studs at the top of the engine because the gearbox flange is
thicker.
>> The TR6 output flange you mention is actually a better option as it is
>> stronger than the TR4 flange and mates up to the driveshaft the same as
the
>> earlier flange.
>>
>> Steve Yott
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Glenn Franco
>> Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 12:06 PM
>> To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Early TR6 Trans into a 64 TR4
>>
>> Group
>> Will a 1970 TR6 4 speed trans swap into a 1964 TR4.
>> I'm in the process of adapting an A-type O/D to a Trans and have lots of
>> spare 4 speeds around and thought it would be easier to mate up the 2
(trans
>> and O/D) for a quick swap later.
>> The only big difference I have seen is the rear companion flange is
>> different than a TR6 but the O/D has a TR4 Flange.
>> Thanks in advance
>> Glenn
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Sat May 11 07:19:54 2013
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 06:19:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <20130511004336.806EE4256B@autox.team.net>
References: <47781327ACC24303A2FBABAACAA92EC8@rileyPC>
	<20130511004336.806EE4256B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring 
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says. 
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To:
riverside at southslope.net; FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Sent: Friday, May 10,
2013 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Doesn't sound right to
me.

Tony Drews

At 03:53 PM 5/9/2013, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
>A
local engine builder has recommended that the
>2nd compression ring have a
larger end gap than
>the top ring.   I have not heard of this before and
>cannot figure out any benefit.
>
>Any thoughts from this group?
>
>art de
armond
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From fubog1 at aol.com  Sat May 11 07:30:23 2013
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:30:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>

 Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner &lt;j.wags63 at yahoo.com&gt;
To: Tony Drews &lt;tony at tonydrews.com&gt;; riverside
&lt;riverside at southslope.net&gt;; FOT &lt;fot at autox.team.net&gt;
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question




     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


From BillDentin at aol.com  Sat May 11 07:32:02 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 09:32:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <12a7b7.480ac13b.3ebfa252@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/10/2013 8:39:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:


> While we are on the subject of A-type OD transmissions. I have one to 
> install
> in my buddies TR4 when I wrap up the engine (shortly I hope) What's the 
> oil of
> choice in these? Street car.
> 
> 

Back in the day, they used to say that the clutches in that tranny really 
wanted two distinct fluids, and that KENDALL Three Star was as close as you 
could get to addressing both of those needs, but since our own ODs have been 
on the shelf for years, there may be a better tranny fluid out and available 
now.

Bill Dentinger


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Sat May 11 15:20:25 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (Yellow04)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 17:20:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
Message-ID: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly. 

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat May 11 16:20:18 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:20:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>

I run non-detergent oil in some of my old tractors (guess it ties into the 
old tractor engine thing!)
If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, it's available there. Sometimes in 
different weights than my local parts store can get.
Tractor on!
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif


> Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. 
> I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of 
> the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I 
> believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in 
> and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.
>
> It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD 
> box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this 
> Spring  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same 
> cheap oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. 
> Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly.
>
> I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a 
> close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. 
> Redline oil is way too expensive for that!
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From triosan at gmail.com  Sat May 11 17:36:22 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 16:36:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
	<558E28232E59470EA64E5E8B9DF1D5CB@hpd530>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDsEcYDQmf_MZhiVKvZk4zbJ2zp8Af1_e=MRYf_AvjvBg@mail.gmail.com>

Redline MTL full race jtype. Flawless.  Set a personal best at Pacific
Raceways -- 2seconds up on last year. 1:42:6.
On May 11, 2013 3:21 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net> wrote:

> I run non-detergent oil in some of my old tractors (guess it ties into the
> old tractor engine thing!)
> If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, it's available there. Sometimes in
> different weights than my local parts store can get.
> Tractor on!
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
> To: <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 5:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
>
>  Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car.
>> I tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of
>> the OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I
>> believe I was frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in
>> and be done with it, but I called Moldex instead.
>>
>> It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD
>> box, and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring
>>  to sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap
>> oil that has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR.
>> Shifted perfectly, and the OD worked perfectly.
>>
>> I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take
>> a close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box.
>> Redline oil is way too expensive for that!
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
>> ______________________________**_________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/fot/william.tobin31@**verizon.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/triosan at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com>


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Sun May 12 13:34:21 2013
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 12:34:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1368387261.94818.YahooMailRC@web184806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Should gasket sealer be used on one side of this gasket or should it go in
with 
nothing on it?  I am using the white gasket that is labeled High
Performance.  
Thanks, Jim


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Sun May 12 14:36:13 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 15:36:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6
In-Reply-To: <1368387261.94818.YahooMailRC@web184806.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <77.9A.06694.E3DFF815@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

I do not use any sealer on the manifold gaskets.  

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sherry robyn
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 2:34 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Intake/exhaust gasket on a TR6

Should gasket sealer be used on one side of this gasket or should it go in
with nothing on it?  I am using the white gasket that is labeled High
Performance.  
Thanks, Jim
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mmoore at wave1.net  Sun May 12 18:24:31 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:24:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
Message-ID: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>

At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.

 

Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.

 

Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.

 

Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
can't shift easily.

 

Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?

 

Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?

 

I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since this one looks ok.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sun May 12 18:55:12 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:55:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <C42EC368D37141AD8305B90C63DC128F@hpd530>

Mike, give me a call: 398-2908
I'll be up till 11:30.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school


> At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If 
> I
> go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>
>
>
> Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as 
> was
> in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>
>
>
> Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
> look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>
>
>
> Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
> can't shift easily.
>
>
>
> Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>
>
>
> Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>
>
>
> I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to 
> waste
> the time since this one looks ok.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 12 19:04:01 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:04:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <mailman.242.1638252579.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper 
hole?  I have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce 
pedal effort and require more pedal travel.

Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master 
cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of 
fluid pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch 
engaged for a while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a 
wilwood master cylinder and find no reference of such a valve thought.

Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had 
before?  A smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave 
cylinder would increase pedal stroke and lower the engagement / 
disengagement closer to the floor.

Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any 
chance that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be 
replaced?  Sometimes rubber lines fail in a way that causes them to 
act as one way valves.

That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be 
hugely frustrating!

Tony Drews

At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
>go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>
>
>
>Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
>in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>
>
>
>Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>
>
>
>Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>can't shift easily.
>
>
>
>Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>
>
>
>Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>
>
>
>I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
>the time since this one looks ok.
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike
>
>
>
>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
>2007 West 32nd Street
>
>Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
>Fax:        814-864-7383
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sun May 12 19:41:51 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 21:41:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing   school
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
	<20130513010820.EBC8B40E39@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>

Hi Tony, I just talked to Mike.
He's running a braided line to the slave, but they have been known to fail 
at times.
Mike's coming down tomorrow AM. I have a spare M/C and Slave. I want to 
check the bore sizes on his and see if they are the same as mine.
Like I said to him, if the clutch worked before replacing the hydraulics and 
doesn't work now, it's probably the hydraulics.
Your thought of a residual valve in brake M/C is a good point.
Here's hoping! (I have a spare clutch too, just in case!)
Thanks for your help.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school


> Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper hole?  I 
> have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce pedal effort 
> and require more pedal travel.
>
> Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master 
> cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of fluid 
> pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch engaged 
> for a while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a wilwood master 
> cylinder and find no reference of such a valve thought.
>
> Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had before?  A 
> smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave cylinder would 
> increase pedal stroke and lower the engagement / disengagement closer to 
> the floor.
>
> Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any 
> chance that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be replaced?  Sometimes 
> rubber lines fail in a way that causes them to act as one way valves.
>
> That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be 
> hugely frustrating!
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>>At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If 
>>I
>>go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>>
>>
>>
>>Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as 
>>was
>>in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>>
>>
>>
>>Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>>look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>>
>>
>>
>>Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>>can't shift easily.
>>
>>
>>
>>Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>>
>>
>>
>>Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>>
>>
>>
>>I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to 
>>waste
>>the time since this one looks ok.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>>2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>>Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>>Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>>Fax:        814-864-7383
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun May 12 20:36:34 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 19:36:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing    school
In-Reply-To: <72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
	<20130513010820.EBC8B40E39@autox.team.net>
	<72129A52BB7B4B649C5B289CD589D935@hpd530>
Message-ID: <89A1E02E-C2E9-4406-A647-37E696F7DE06@bnj.com>

It still sounds to me like a residual pressure valve. Remove the line from the
M/C, then unscrew the fitting from the body of the M/C. Under that fitting
there might be a valve bod and spring. remove then, reassemble.

A faulty line is also possible. With the peal all the way to the floor and
stuck, open the bleed valve and see what happens.
On May 12, 2013, at 6:41 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Tony, I just talked to Mike.
> He's running a braided line to the slave, but they have been known to fail
at times.
> Mike's coming down tomorrow AM. I have a spare M/C and Slave. I want to
check the bore sizes on his and see if they are the same as mine.
> Like I said to him, if the clutch worked before replacing the hydraulics and
doesn't work now, it's probably the hydraulics.
> Your thought of a residual valve in brake M/C is a good point.
> Here's hoping! (I have a spare clutch too, just in case!)
> Thanks for your help.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
>
>
>> Is the clutch shaft between the slave and the tranny in the upper hole?  I
have 3 holes and use the upper one.  Lower holes will reduce pedal effort and
require more pedal travel.
>>
>> Are you sure you got a clutch master cylinder and not a brake master
cylinder?  The brake ones can have a valve that prevents a bunch of fluid
pushing back into the master cylinder and would hold the clutch engaged for a
while.  I've just googled for this in relation to a wilwood master cylinder
and find no reference of such a valve thought.
>>
>> Also, are you sure you got the same bore diameters that you had before?  A
smaller bore master cylinder or a larger bore slave cylinder would increase
pedal stroke and lower the engagement / disengagement closer to the floor.
>>
>> Another thought - the flexible line that connects to the slave - any chance
that's collapsing?  Is it rubber?  Can it be replaced?  Sometimes rubber lines
fail in a way that causes them to act as one way valves.
>>
>> That's all I can think of...  Hope you get it fixed!  That's gotta be
hugely frustrating!
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> At 07:24 PM 5/12/2013, Mike Moore wrote:
>>> At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If
I
>>> go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as
was
>>> in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
>>> look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
>>> can't shift easily.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to
waste
>>> the time since this one looks ok.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>>
>>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>>
>>> Erie, PA 16508
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>>
>>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Sun May 12 21:00:51 2013
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:00:51 +1000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAANbjSeG1YPdPiTyZ6H0v/zEBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Mike,
Which side of the Metal bracket have you got the slave cylinder bolted to?
Sounds like you are about the thickness of the slave cylinder flange off
getting the right stroke?


Cheers


Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Monday, 13 May 2013 10:25 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school

At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.

 

Problem started after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is stock from Roadster Factory.

 

Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not bent.

 

Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly loose, I
can't shift easily.

 

Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?

 

Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?

 

I can drive 5 hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since this one looks ok.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun May 12 21:04:40 2013
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:04:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] In-Car video from VARA Buttonwillow May 5, 2013
Message-ID: <28878898.1368414280804.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Here's some cool in-car video from the Spitfire of DJ Isaac.  This is the Sunday Flag race from VARA's "British Extravaganza."
I appear in the video in my TR3 for the first 5 minutes before DJ goes sailing past me and sets the second fastest time of the race.  At about :51, I was on the inside signaling DJ that there was a spin happening ahead of us.
A few seconds later, an actual tumbleweed rolls across the track!
There's a scary moment at 6:15.  This kid is really quick.
Enjoy the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WprNn5iW4g&feature=youtu.be

~Steve


From britcars at bellsouth.net  Mon May 13 05:05:57 2013
From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 04:05:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing  school
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
References: <000001ce4f70$3cf78930$b6e69b90$@net>
Message-ID: <1368443157.38057.YahooMailNeo@web181704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Make sure you do not have a Quinton Hazel clutch setup. They stick just like
you describe. Next, check the diameter of your clutch hose, it should be
bigger than your brake line. Clutch hoses need to be bigger to allow the
pressure to release quickly. If the master cylinder took the same size fitting
as before, it is probably correct for the clutch, it should have a bigger line
fitting than a master brake cylinder. An adjustable pushrod is useless. The
only way it would have any effect on the situation is if you adjusted it so
far that the piston is bottomed out in the slave cylinder and then you would
be putting constant pressure on the TOB, not good. TR 3-6 hydraulic clutch
systems will always, when in good condition, push the piston out as far as it
will go just by the small internal spring. It just keeps very light pressure
on the pushrod. If you lengthen the pushrod, all you do is push the piston
back into the slave cylinder, until you go so far as
 to bottom it out. 
 

________________________________
 From: Mike Moore
<mmoore at wave1.net>
To: 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013
8:24 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch getting desperate, 2 days till racing school
At track today, I had to push clutch in 95% of way to be able to shift. If I
go 100% pedal sticks to floor, but pulls up really easily.



Problem started
after I replaced m/c and s/c. Master is Wilwood (same as was
in car) slave is
stock from Roadster Factory.



Just took clutch out, it is stock TR6 and
pressure plate and contact disc
look fine. Fork is bolted to shaft and is not
bent.



Do I have an adjustment problem? If I leave slave shaft slightly
loose, I
can't shift easily.



Can I have the m/c shaft extended too far?
Maybe a stiffer spring on pedal to bypass problem for now?



I can drive 5
hours tomorrow and get another clutch but don't want to waste
the time since
this one looks ok.



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd
Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:       
814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Mon May 13 06:44:21 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:44:21 +0000
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
References: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

See the second article, from June 2005.

http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Yellow04
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 4:20 PM
To: trmarty at hotmail.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I
tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the
OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was
frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with
it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box,
and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring  to
sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that
has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly,
and the OD worked perfectly.

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a
close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline
oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From SpiwakD at aol.com  Mon May 13 07:26:09 2013
From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:26:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
performance?
 
David Spiwak


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 13 07:35:28 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 15:35:28 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort/NL - first race of season
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002701ce4fde$bcf770f0$36e652d0$@com>

I had some trouble on this first season.

- practice: not too good - P8
- race 1: Leaked water out
- pulled head and fitted gasket of the previous design
- race 2: recovered from P39 to P13 - could have been better but half the
racind distance the safety car was out while they removed oil from the track
- race 3: went out on old tires. Started to rain. Lost some positions. Then
track dried out and the hunt was on and I ended up on 4th overall.

Race 3 - first few minutes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffhIm_zTyWs

Maybe you asked where these telemetric datas are gone. I just forgot to
bring my CF-storage card for the video equipment.
So I had to use the camera out of my Hummer.

Cheers
Chris


From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon May 13 08:01:55 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 07:01:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>

Junk from crooks. 
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
> performance?
> 
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From rjl6n at cstone.net  Mon May 13 08:01:48 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:01:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <02608357439d739ad010ddcb1d54261b.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

That company does not have a very good reputation.  You might check
the "Monster List":

http://www.dimebank.com/monster/vendors.html

John

On Mon, May 13, 2013 9:26 am, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com


From riverside at southslope.net  Mon May 13 09:30:02 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 10:30:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>

What Bill said.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bill Babcock
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
To: SpiwakD at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Junk from crooks.
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13 


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon May 13 09:50:25 2013
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:50:25 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>

+1

On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> What Bill said.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
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>
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 13 10:07:48 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:07:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> See the second article, from June 2005.
> 
> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm

Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with oil
that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.

-- Randall 


From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 10:10:33 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 09:10:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5CD8882A873C4BD494AF3361C88802E7@Vista>

Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative comments
about their quality and especially prices.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
performance?
 
David Spiwak
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From gasket.works at gte.net  Mon May 13 10:34:34 2013
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 16:34:34 +0000
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
	<213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <838641989-1368462880-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1858394632-@b4.c8.bise6.blackberry>

in 1995 I needed a gasket.  I ordered one from paeco. It was not satisfactory.   Hence Gasket Works was born.  
M
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:50:25 
To: <riverside at southslope.net><riverside at southslope.net>
Cc: Bill Babcock<ponobill at gmail.com>; fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

+1

On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> What Bill said.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 13 10:55:06 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:55:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Josh Files
Message-ID: <A848CD10-62E4-46B1-8580-E21396FD9BBE@cs.com>

Sent from my iPad
The press releases on Keith Files' son make great reading....

GO Josh!


From grandwazoo at earthlink.net  Mon May 13 11:06:37 2013
From: grandwazoo at earthlink.net (Mike Jackson)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:06:37 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 20+ years ago.

Mike Jackson


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative comments
>about their quality and especially prices.
>
>Joe C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and  
>performance?
> 
>David Spiwak
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 13 11:26:15 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:26:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <16502116.1368464797671.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <005701ce4ffe$f909a750$eb1cf5f0$@rr.com>

Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time only
business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!

russ

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Jackson
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 20+
years ago.

Mike Jackson


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative 
>comments about their quality and especially prices.
>
>Joe C.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>To: fot at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
>Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
>and performance?
> 
>David Spiwak
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon May 13 11:30:01 2013
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:30:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B1CDE@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
	<9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9Pa5-=coMk-o+o_dWe6pHzZouRL7vGyEuZrT1KmJ6HB3w@mail.gmail.com>

I also run non-detergent 30 weight oil, the old stuff, on an "A" drive box
and have had no gearbox problems for 5 years of track time, shifts good and
pleased.



On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:07 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > See the second article, from June 2005.
> >
> > http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
>
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with
> oil
> that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
> about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon May 13 11:35:38 2013
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:35:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<1162B9D6-A422-43FA-8AC5-B0025DC8E158@bnj.com>
	<228051760C014ACFAD8B39583BF2A6D9@rileyPC>
	<213AF7B8-9B7B-4083-A560-C6B33A082476@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <C87FF400-9885-4051-962B-57ECC842F104@yahoo.com>

I just replaced one of their 6500 rpm cams and springs combos. Got to it
before it tore up the rest of the motor.

Ty

Sent from my iPhone



On May 13, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com> wrote:

> +1
>
> On May 13, 2013, at 11:30, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:
>
>> What Bill said.
>>
>> art de armond
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:01 AM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Junk from crooks.
>> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>>> performance?
>>>
>>> David Spiwak
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13
> _______________________________________________
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon May 13 11:53:40 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:53:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>

Wow!  

I guess I should be thankful in 35 years, I've never dealt with PAECO.  

Do they kill babies too?

Bill (Damdinger)

PS And then load them on a truck with pitch forks?


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 13 12:39:46 2013
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:39:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Where is PAECO located?

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Junk from crooks.
On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon May 13 12:50:37 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 14:50:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E29E1BA9-05F1-4625-B4C0-3DFD9E00FD72@gdhs.com>

Bham Al

Sent from my iPhone

On May 13, 2013, at 2:39 PM, Dennis DeLap <yellow-green at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Where is PAECO located?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
> Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
> To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
> Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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From jhouathome at aol.com  Mon May 13 12:55:07 2013
From: jhouathome at aol.com (Jhouathome)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:55:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <284261.29476.bm@smtp220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E280971A-E3C3-455C-9FB5-64C552B02B0D@aol.com>

Birmingham, Alabama. Some of their off the shelf parts are good enough, but
service is spotty and shipping is not reliable.  In 34 seasons of racing I
have never encountered a single happy customer of their machining/engine
building services.  The reputation is "very unreliable", and rude or
non-responsive are bonuses.  There may be happy customers out there, but I
have never met one.
John

Sent from my iPad

On May 13, 2013, at 1:39 PM, Dennis DeLap <yellow-green at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Where is PAECO located?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
> Sent: b5/b13/b2013 9:20 AM
> To: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
> Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> Junk from crooks.
> On May 13, 2013, at 6:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
>> performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Mon May 13 13:22:52 2013
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 15:22:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <39a607da.2dd50.13e9f586f5d.Webtop.10@optonline.net>

Did you get enough information and replies to make a sound decision?

Boy, I hope so!




On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 9:26 AM, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
> and  performance?
>  David Spiwak
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net


From riverside at southslope.net  Mon May 13 12:42:27 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:42:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 12:53 PM
To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com ; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com ; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

Wow!

I guess I should be thankful in 35 years, I've never dealt with PAECO.

Do they kill babies too?

Bill (Damdinger)

PS And then load them on a truck with pitch forks?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6320 - Release Date: 05/13/13 


From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 13:45:53 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:45:53 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
	<EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <3F4EAFF5A96A4ADBBEF3A05E53A21221@Vista>

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in
business?  Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors.

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of
merchandise has is his reputation.  Lose that and you will not be allowed to
remain in business.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond


From alan at nosbritishparts.com  Mon May 13 13:53:29 2013
From: alan at nosbritishparts.com (Alan ...)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:53:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1368474809.29231.YahooMailNeo@web5806.biz.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

In the mid eighties , one of my employees was running an E-Prod MGB. He
ordered a 'competition' set of brake pads from PAECO at a cost of $40.00/set.
When the pads arrived they were the same stock CEW pads we kept in stock at
$8.00 a set. I got to witness my first 'conniption' . (sp?)
Alan T 
________________________________
 From: "SpiwakD at aol.com" <SpiwakD at aol.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 9:26 AM
Subject: [Fot]
PAECO engines
 

Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about
quality and  
performance?

David Spiwak
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon May 13 16:46:14 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 22:46:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <5g3cmb2yfwl1i0uw4ex5lkgp.1368306073031@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1265863195.1622361.1368485174639.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My J type was shifting slow and sometimes not at all and it turned out to be a
sticky high pressure relief valve

was dragging in the bore. I swapped it out with a spare and has
workedB perfect with both 30 wt and 90 wt..

Jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Yellow04" <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: trmarty at hotmail.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 3:20:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

Before I ponied up for the billet bottom end, I ran an OD in my race car. I
tried a couple varieties of GL4 and 5, but never overcame the problem of the
OD engaging sluggishly and then not at all on a hard, hot run. I believe I was
frothing the oil at big rpm. I was about to put Redline in and be done with
it, but I called Moldex instead.

It was suggested to me to run non-detergent 30 weight oil in a street OD box,
and it works great. When I rebuilt the race prepped OD box this Spring B to
sell in the old yellow car, I went to Napa and bought the same cheap oil that
has served me well on the street, and ran a weekend at VIR. Shifted perfectly,
and the OD worked perfectly.

I change it every race weekend because that gives me the ability to take a
close look at the oil, giving me a good read on the health of the box. Redline
oil is way too expensive for that!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From cartravel at pobox.com  Mon May 13 16:46:27 2013
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:46:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <9F.7E.02984.7CF01915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>

I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's 
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.

I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally 
find that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be 
done.  I am aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to 
release from overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.  
Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the 
guy with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
Larry

On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
>> See the second article, from June 2005.
>>
>> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars with oil
> that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the factory fill from
> about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Mon May 13 16:59:46 2013
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:59:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>

Yes, to my eternal dismay. Many years ago I *finally* saved up enough money 
to by a "Real Race Engine." and got it from PAECO -- knowing no better at 
the time. It was a boat anchor I had to live with for years as it was that 
long (a divorce intervening) before I could afford another.

* The engine was for a Mk. 1 Spitfire. The front plate was from a TR4, which 
bolts right on. Key difference: the Spitfire front plate has the motor 
mounts, the TR4's doesn't! Had to disassemble the whole front end and 
reassemble it just to be able to put it in the car!.
* I asked for a stock pan because I already had a baffled pan. Good thing. 
When I took the stock pan off it was full of what looked like layers of 
dried oil residue.
* #1 lifter had a burr in the lifter hole that kept it from going up and 
down. The burr was discovered the first time we tried to drive the car and 
it broke the camshaft almost immediately.
* When I sent it back for repair I specifically told them about the burr. 
When it was returned the burr was still there!
* It was promised in three months. It was delivered in 18 months. When I 
tried to cancel the order they wouldn't let me -- they already had my money 
and refused to give it back.
* They pledged to stand behind their product, so of course they repaired it 
for free on warranty -- but I had to pay the expensive two-way truck 
shipping.
* When they shipped it (at my expense) they rated the weight at 500 pounds, 
double what it really weighed. I had to sue the trucking company to get a 
refund of the shipping overpayment (I don't use that trucker any more 
either).
* "Competition valve springs" were of such poor quality most inner springs 
broke. One piece worked its way down to the oil pump and broke that.
* It was supposed to be a "full race" 13:1 engine. When I had a trusted 
friend rebuild it some years later I asked him to measure the compression 
ratio -- it came out 10.67:1.

What thy lack in ethics they more than compensate for with incompetence. 
Cannot believe they're still in business! In nearly 45 years in this sport, 
I have never dealt with any other business that even comes remotely close to 
this one in its disdain for its customers or its own product.

--Rocky Entriken


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SpiwakD at aol.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 8:26 AM
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines


> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality and
> performance?
>
> David Spiwak


From jkhagen at charter.net  Mon May 13 17:19:45 2013
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 19:19:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
Message-ID: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>

If you want a good motor talk to Dean Johnson former F/P Spitfire 
National Champion.  Finally selling his stuff.  Lots of engines and two 
race cars and a fresh really cool "Macho" [sp]?  replica.  contact dean 
--at  dean at motorscope.net--612-759-6748


On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Spitfire Racing wrote:

> Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time 
> only
> business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!
>
> russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Mike Jackson
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible 
> 20+
> years ago.
>
> Mike Jackson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>> Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative 
>> comments about their quality and especially prices.
>>
>> Joe C.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
>> On Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality 
>> and performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/grandwazoo at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon May 13 17:26:11 2013
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:26:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>
References: <18294.4afc302e.3ec243f1@aol.com>
	<84FE937AC254468EB65D4A8086D6C152@rocky>
Message-ID: <51917693.6010600@dfn.com>

On 5/13/2013 4:59 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote:
> Yes, to my eternal dismay. Many years ago I *finally* saved up enough 
> money to by a "Real Race Engine." and got it from PAECO -- knowing no 
> better at the time. It was a boat anchor I had to live with for years 
> as it was that long (a divorce intervening) before I could afford 
> another.
>

This is the kind of guy that builds his shop in steel, knowing that one 
day, someone's going to try to burn it down. Thank goodness when I was 
young and stupid, I had no money at all.  Otherwise, I, too, might have 
made the same mistake.  Somewhere, I still have one of his catalogs from 
the mid-`70s or so.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


From tr4 at wi.rr.com  Mon May 13 17:29:29 2013
From: tr4 at wi.rr.com (Steve Yott)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 18:29:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just fine in our
gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend Redline MT90 is that
in testing of oils this particular product and also their MTL product
produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the gearbox during
break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I perform.  Some of
the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when warmed up and running
at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 30
weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of using engine oil.
At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I feel that the costs
of the best quality oils are the best value.

As far as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
clutches during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
been burned and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
not having enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
being produced by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
and are not that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
clutches with thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
particular overdrive to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
close so that a minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.  This
results in the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!

Steve Yott 

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Larry Young
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif

I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.

I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally find
that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.  
Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
Larry

On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
>> See the second article, from June 2005.
>>
>> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars 
> with oil that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the 
> factory fill from about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com


From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 13 18:11:06 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:11:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
	<8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>

Steve built my racing j type and the shifting is great both in and out. Has
mtl oil.
On May 13, 2013 4:31 PM, "Steve Yott" <tr4 at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just fine in
> our
> gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend Redline MT90 is
> that
> in testing of oils this particular product and also their MTL product
> produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the gearbox during
> break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I perform.  Some of
> the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when warmed up and running
> at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the same viscosity as 30
> weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of using engine oil.
> At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I feel that the costs
> of the best quality oils are the best value.
>
> As far as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
> clutches during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
> been burned and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
> not having enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
> being produced by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
> and are not that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
> clutches with thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
> particular overdrive to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
> close so that a minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.
>  This
> results in the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!
>
> Steve Yott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Young
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
> I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
> available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.
>
> I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally
> find
> that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
> aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
> overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.
> Redline oil seems to help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
> with the experience on this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
> Larry
>
> On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall wrote:
> >> See the second article, from June 2005.
> >>
> >> http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> > Then consider how absurd it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars
> > with oil that would damage them instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the
> > factory fill from about 1960 to the end of the TR6 run.
> >
> > -- Randall
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com


From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 13 18:41:07 2013
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 20:41:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>
References: <727161eb.675355.13ea0314aff.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000601ce503b$b95b1610$2c114230$@rr.com>

The original poster of this runs a TR3 and was curious about Paeco. I build my
own (and others) Spitfire engines with great durability and stability at 8K. I
do admit to a number of conversations with Rick Cline and also using his cams
and some design specs.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: jkhagen at charter.net [mailto:jkhagen at charter.net]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 7:20 PM
To: Spitfire Racing
Cc: 'Mike Jackson'; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

If you want a good motor talk to Dean Johnson former F/P Spitfire National
Champion.  Finally selling his stuff.  Lots of engines and two race cars and a
fresh really cool "Macho" [sp]?  replica.  contact dean --at
dean at motorscope.net--612-759-6748


On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Spitfire Racing wrote:

> Lots of newbie's with money soon to be lost! They do lots of one time
> only business. Word gets out when a place is that bad!
>
> russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Mike Jackson
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>
> How can they possibly still be around?  Reputation was truly horrible
> 20+
> years ago.
>
> Mike Jackson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
>> Sent: May 13, 2013 12:10 PM
>> To: SpiwakD at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Never bought anything from them but I have heard plenty of negative
>> comments about their quality and especially prices.
>>
>> Joe C.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of SpiwakD at aol.com
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:26 AM
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
>>
>> Has anyone bought race engines from PAECO? Any comments about quality
>> and performance?
>>
>> David Spiwak
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/grandwazoo at earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From britcars at bellsouth.net  Tue May 14 05:32:02 2013
From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 04:32:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] trans fluif
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <51916D43.1090209@pobox.com>
	<8C.C7.06694.A5771915@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<CAMc4sNB8YHw3FHAWoudjiiCkSmvvBhQLq6Ds9Ymtp1Xq2OfZ1w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1368531122.52321.YahooMailNeo@web181703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

One thing I have not seen mentioned is the reason for a "gear" oil. It has
different additives that stop the extremely tight meshing of the gears from
shearing the oil molecules apart. Motor oil does not. I learned this from a
Castrol chemist/rep way back in the late 70s. Gear oil also has anti-foaming
additives. On every street trans I build, overdrive or not, gets gear oil.
________________________________
 From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
<triosan at gmail.com>
To: Steve Yott <tr4 at wi.rr.com> 
Cc: Friends
<fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
trans fluif
  

Steve built my racing j type and the shifting is great both in
and out. Has
mtl oil.
On May 13, 2013 4:31 PM, "Steve Yott" <tr4 at wi.rr.com>
wrote:

> Staylube GL4 and many of the other 90 weight gear oils work just
fine in
> our
> gearboxes.  The one main reason that I always recommend
Redline MT90 is
> that
> in testing of oils this particular product and also
their MTL product
> produced far less foaming.  I use a plexi cover on the
gearbox during
> break-in and testing of all the gearbox rebuilds that I
perform.  Some of
> the oil products produced scary amounts of foam when
warmed up and running
> at full speed.  Keep in mind that 90 gear oil is the
same viscosity as 30
> weight engine oil hence the recommendation over time of
using engine oil.
> At the cost of rebuilding a gearbox as with an engine I
feel that the costs
> of the best quality oils are the best value.
>
> As far
as replacing overdrive cone clutches I replace most but not all
> clutches
during rebuilds.  I find on many clutch surfaces that they have
> been burned
and glazed from either poor quality or dirty oil and also from
> not having
enough engagement pressure to work with the amount of torque
> being produced
by the engine.  Most of these clutches are over 40 years old
> and are not
that expensive to replace.  For race style overdrives I use
> clutches with
thicker linings and machine these in thickness to the
> particular overdrive
to ensure total disengagement but also keep them very
> close so that a
minimum amount of movement is required for engagement.
>  This
> results in
the fastest possible engagement, critical to speed!
>
> Steve Yott
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Larry Young
> Sent: Monday,
May 13, 2013 5:46 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trans fluif
>
> I agree.  I don't use anything exotic, just use Staylube GL4.  It's
>
available locally and avoids the "yellow metal scare" associated with GL5.
>
>
I believe Quantum usually replaces the brake linings.  I don't normally
> find
> that necessary and have not seen a spec for when it should be done.  I am
>
aware of a couple of quantum rebuilds that did not want to release from
>
overdrive unless you smacked the housing with a hammer.
> Redline oil seems to
help until they get broken in. Ed Barnard is the guy
> with the experience on
this.  Maybe he will weigh in.
> Larry
>
> On 5/13/2013 11:07 AM, Randall
wrote:
> >> See the second article, from June 2005.
> >>
> >>
http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/topic1.htm
> > Then consider how absurd
it is to claim that Triumph delivered cars
> > with oil that would damage them
instantly.  90 weight GL4 was the
> > factory fill from about 1960 to the end
of the TR6 run.
> >
> > -- Randall
> >
_______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >
http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
>
_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com/
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4 at wi.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com/
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
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_______________________________________________
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue May 14 07:50:56 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 09:50:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Cap Side Seals
Message-ID: <BLU168-W9628355ACCFDFFAD29B39EBAA10@phx.gbl>

The consensus is that I should not use the trim to fit cork strip that came
with my Payen gasket set but should use the pound in place felt rope type
product for the sides of the rear main cap on a TR3/4 block. I have contacted
Ted, TRF, Moss, BPNW. None of them have it. Since this appears to be what all
you folks use on your builds, where the heck can I get my hands on the stuff?
Finally finished up the Spitfire build and moved over to the TR4 and have hit
the brakes.

Thanks,
Marty


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue May 14 09:03:13 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 10:03:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8885E1B5BDB54705A02FE72451051E26@rileyPC>

Lots of diverse responses.   I am still pretty fuzzy on the theory end.
Ring flutter?  Does this really happen?   How does the wider 2nd ring
gap prevent it?   What is the downside of trapping pressure between
the rings if this really happen;   I cannot see there being much pressure
trapped there if the top ring is working.
I checked some new in the box rings from two different manufacturers
and there was no mention of special gap for ring 2.

art de armond

From: fubog1
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen



-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; FOT
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question






     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue May 14 09:55:45 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:55:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 main cap seal
Message-ID: <BLU168-W13187ABFC0DD3938E86C65ABAA10@phx.gbl>

Problem now solved. Thanks folks.

Marty


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue May 14 10:25:25 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:25:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>

Kind of related,   do any of you use shims to fill some of
the space behind the top ring ?

art de armond

From: fubog1
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was to
prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
Glen



-----Original Message-----
From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; FOT
<fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question






     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than the
top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
flutter or lifting.
That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
manufacture think different. I would go my what
your piston manufacture says.
----- Original Message -----


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 14 14:30:33 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:30:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>
References: <1368278394.90603.YahooMailNeo@web162501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<8D01C62D332BE00-12D0-5C8F@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>
	<8BBB30B61D25472ABEFFD0481D263A2A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <02B7455C-1D27-4D13-920B-F74B5C5E816B@gdhs.com>

I've heard some drill very small holes in the top ring grove to apply pressure
against the cyl wall. Anyone heard of this?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 12:25 PM, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> Kind of related,   do any of you use shims to fill some of
> the space behind the top ring ?
>
> art de armond
>
> From: fubog1
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
> To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
> Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was
to
> prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
> Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
> Glen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
> To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>;
FOT
> <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
>
>
>
>
>
>     Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than
the
> top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
> flutter or lifting.
> That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet.  Maybe some piston
> manufacture think different. I would go my what
> your piston manufacture says.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May 13 13:44:32 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
References: <fe84.47bf8982.3ec282a4@aol.com>
	<EFC1E25EBC704D598D3363EAC730E30A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <EF80DE13049A484087135935C7AF3DDD@Vista>

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in
business?  Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors.

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of
merchandise has is his reputation.  Lose that and you will not be allowed to
remain in business.

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were
total crap.   So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way.

art de armond


From jamesnorlin at gmail.com  Tue May 14 21:33:41 2013
From: jamesnorlin at gmail.com (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:33:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
Message-ID: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>

I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the 
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs.  Do I 
hear a second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com


From jamesnorlin at gmail.com  Tue May 14 21:43:41 2013
From: jamesnorlin at gmail.com (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 20:43:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] A lap of PIR
Message-ID: <5193046D.40805@gmail.com>

A while back, I think I mentioned that I was writing articles for our 
local Triumph Club newsletter.  Last month, I wrote a brief history of 
Portland International Raceway.  This month, the column is a narrated 
description of a hot lap of the track in our Spitfire.  It includes a 
link to a short Youtube Video as follows:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbYlUFEwlsM

Disclaimer:The racing line that I describe may be different that the one 
you should use depending upon your car and the way it is prepared.For 
example, our Spitfire's suspension is much stiffer and lower than stock 
but even so we have a tendency to lift the inner /rear/ tire during hard 
cornering.To prevent that tire from spinning, we run a welded, solid 
differential, which makes the car tend to understeer unless driven very 
hard.An MG Midget or AH Sprite on the other hand, tends to lift the 
inner /front/ wheel during hard cornering.The racing line that we take 
through turns 4 to 7 compared with the Spridgets is significantly different.


Jim


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed May 15 14:49:06 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 20:49:06 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
References: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202B777F@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Second!

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 10:34 PM
To: FOT; norlin.patty at gmail.com
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the Spit
as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs.  Do I hear a
second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed May 15 15:39:54 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 21:39:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] piston ring question
In-Reply-To: <02B7455C-1D27-4D13-920B-F74B5C5E816B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <29499046.1691211.1368653994824.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes,

That's gas porting, mine have them. The drag racers have the gas ports drilled
from the top.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: "<riverside at southslope.net>" <riverside at southslope.net>
Cc: "<fot at autox.team.net>" <fot at autox.team.net>, "fubog1" <fubog1 at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 2:30:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question

I've heard some drill very small holes in the top ring grove to apply pressure
against the cyl wall. Anyone heard of this?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 12:25 PM, <riverside at southslope.net> wrote:

> Kind of related, B  do any of you use shims to fill some of
> the space behind the top ring ?
>
> art de armond
>
> From: fubog1
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 8:30 AM
> To: j.wags63 at yahoo.com ; tony at tonydrews.com ; riverside at southslope.net ;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
> Total Seal now specifies this as well. It was explained to me that it was
to
> prevent trapping pressure between top and second ring.
> Agree, go with manufacturers recommendations.
> Glen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Wagner <j.wags63 at yahoo.com>
> To: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; riverside <riverside at southslope.net>;
FOT
> <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, May 11, 2013 9:20 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] piston ring question
>
>
>
>
>
>
> B  B  Wiseco says: The gap on the second ring should always be larger than
the
> top ring end gap, this will help to reduce top ring
> flutter or lifting.
> That's right off they're installation "pink" sheet. B Maybe some piston
> manufacture think different. I would go my what
> your piston manufacture says.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6314 - Release Date: 05/10/13
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed May 15 20:44:02 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 19:44:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
References: <51930215.6050500@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e868d68e-da24-4b21-b4a7-0f5ecf88410e@email.android.com>

She is faster than me.  I second it. The Norlin's are great Triumph
ambassadors.
Mike Mehl

Sent from my Kindle Fire



_____________________________________________
From: Jim Norlin <jamesnorlin at gmail.com>
Sent: Tue May 14 20:33:41 PDT 2013
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>, norlin.patty at gmail.com
Subject: [Fot] Nomination


I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs. Do I
hear a second?

Her e-mail is

norlin.patty at gmail.com
_____________________________________________

fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com


From haretoday at comcast.net  Thu May 16 10:25:55 2013
From: haretoday at comcast.net (haretoday at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 16:25:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <e868d68e-da24-4b21-b4a7-0f5ecf88410e@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <624479607.1860626.1368721555712.JavaMail.root@sz0138a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Yes, Yes....a great person--on the track and in the paddock! 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> 
To: "Jim Norlin" <jamesnorlin at gmail.com>, "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>, "norlin patty" <norlin.patty at gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:44:02 PM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination 

She is faster than me. I second it. The Norlin's are great Triumph 
ambassadors. 
Mike Mehl 

Sent from my Kindle Fire 



_____________________________________________ 
From: Jim Norlin <jamesnorlin at gmail.com> 
Sent: Tue May 14 20:33:41 PDT 2013 
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>, norlin.patty at gmail.com 
Subject: [Fot] Nomination 


I'd like to nominate my wife, Patty as a member of FOT - She drives the 
Spit as well as I do, maybe better and is sensitive to it's needs. Do I 
hear a second? 

Her e-mail is 

norlin.patty at gmail.com 
_____________________________________________ 

fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/haretoday at comcast.net 


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 15 21:42:27 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 03:42:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] PAECO engines
In-Reply-To: <EF80DE13049A484087135935C7AF3DDD@Vista>
Message-ID: <1284922598.1962642.1368675747440.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Perhaps there is a trust fund or some other situation to help keep it afloat and it gives the kid something to do, even when they aren't kids anymore. I know of a couple of these type of arrangements bad reputation and all. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net> 
To: riverside at southslope.net, BillDentin at aol.com, tylerpthompson at yahoo.com, bownes at seiri.com 
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com, fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 12:44:32 PM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines 

How does a company with such a bad reputation continue to remain in 
business? Now that there is an internet where such experiences are easily 
shared, I suspect that they will finally close their doors. 

I learned a long time ago that the only thing of value that any seller of 
merchandise has is his reputation. Lose that and you will not be allowed to 
remain in business. 

Joe C. 

-----Original Message----- 
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:42 AM 
To: BillDentin at aol.com; tylerpthompson at yahoo.com; bownes at seiri.com 
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] PAECO engines 

In 1969 I bought some Tractor Motor intake valves from PAECO that were 
total crap. So, yes, this goes back a LOOOONG way. 

art de armond 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net 


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Thu May 16 16:47:30 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 15:47:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
Message-ID: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html
 
I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver. 
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans. 
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could party
all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag video in
the link.
 
Mike Mehl #46 TR4


From billdentin at aol.com  Thu May 16 19:14:44 2013
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 21:14:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
In-Reply-To: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D020B30CA8032F-20BC-3227C@webmail-d225.sysops.aol.com>

He's a BADGER.

Bill Dentinger








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>; mdmehl <mdmehl at gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, May 16, 2013 5:47 pm
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle


http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html

I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver.
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans.
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could
party
all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag video
in
the link.

Mike Mehl #46 TR4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From gp89 at charter.net  Thu May 16 21:55:52 2013
From: gp89 at charter.net (Jeff Senty)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 23:55:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
Message-ID: <3c0ba403.7dce4b.13eb0a12c9d.Webtop.46@charter.net>

  Years ago, after he finished a race near Madison, a friend and I had 
the pleasure of tipping a few cold ones with Dick. He was a lot of fun. 
Loved talking to his fans.
Jeff Senty


On Thu, May 16, 2013 at 5:47 PM, Mike Mehl wrote:

> 
> http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-nas
> car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html
>  I am sure some of you have
> seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible 
> driver. The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the 
> Daytona 500 back
> when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about 
> fans. He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each 
> night during
> speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very 
> entertaining
> evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing. 
> He said
> if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours 
> and if
> you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You 
> could party
> all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag 
> video in
> the link.
>  Mike Mehl #46 TR4
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gp89 at charter.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri May 17 01:36:15 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 09:36:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Dick Trickle
In-Reply-To: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368744450.77503.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001201ce52d1$379383e0$a6ba8ba0$@com>

I only heard of Cole Trickle

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Mike Mehl
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Mai 2013 00:47
An: Triumph Friends of; mdmehl at gmail.com
Betreff: [Fot] Dick Trickle

http://sports.yahoo.com/blogs/nascar-from-the-marbles/dick-trickle-former-na
s
car-driver-dead-self-inflicted-202844077.html

I am sure some of you have
seen this.  It is very sad.  Dick was a great guy and an incredible driver.
The oldest NASCAR Cup rookie in history.  I met Dick at the Daytona 500 back
when low budget teams raced their way into the 500.  He was all about fans.
He would race at New Smyrna speedway in his own stockcar each night during
speedweeks and then hustle a ride at the 500.  I spent a very entertaining
evening with him at New Smyrna getting his take on life and racing.  He said
if you had to run a 500 lap race you need 5 hours sleep, 400, 4 hours and if
you had to run a 100 lap race you didn't need to sleep at all. You could
party all night with the fans.  Gotta love the smoking during a yellow flag
video in the link.

Mike Mehl #46 TR4
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From billsohl at optonline.net  Sun May 19 16:53:43 2013
From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 18:53:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Longest Drive - 1988 One-Lap
Message-ID: <508E3FBFD4E5408EB761048EE678DA05@SohlPC>

Back in 1988, Charles Runyan and I co-drove the TRF TR-250 a total of 8300
 miles...over an 8 day time frame.  Except for one hotel stay about the 4th
 night, we literally
 were almost 100% on the road.  We finished 15th out of 54 entrants.

 Cheers,
 Bill Sohl

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Don TR" <58tr3a at videotron.ca>
> To: "'Mike Jankowski'" <mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com>; "'robert bownes'" 
> <bownes at seiri.com>
> Cc: "'FOT'" <FOT at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 6:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Longest Drive
>
>
>> As for the longest drive in my 1958 TR3A which I bought brand new in May,
>> 1958, I drove a total of 7300 "touring" miles from Montreal to VTR in
>> Portland Oregon in 2000 and then back home.
>>
>> Back about 1960 to 1963, I rallied my TR3A extensively and it was nothing
>> unusual to have a 500 or 600 mile rally.  Most was navigational, but 
>> during
>> the night sections, we had some spirited speeds to try to meet - not to 
>> be
>> late at the next control.
>>
>> Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
>> Montreal, Canada
>>
>> PS - I have driven "TRusty" over 110,000 miles since I did the full
>> restoration from 1987 to 1990.  In 2007, VTR gave me 384 points out of 
>> 400
>> in the judged concourse after having driven 94,000 miles since it was
>> restored.
>> --------- 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 20 07:44:41 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 08:44:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] : KASTNER CUP  2013  IN SEPTEMBER. Osthoff Resevations
References: <2F3096C0-79EC-4F4E-889C-0D0295A3EC60@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20FE7E34-E889-48D4-BA5C-7692749EC37F@cs.com>

> FOT
>
> We have exceeded our contracted rooms, but they continue accept Reservation
from us.
>
> Meeting with Angela on Friday says that there are 30 rooms left that are
allocated to Groups.
>
> I am not going to contract for additional rooms and suites, so govern
yourself accordingly.
>
> This the the perfect place to be and the suites are very cost effective with
our discount and when costs are shared.
>
> This is where it all happens when you are not at the track.  Banquet, old
course reenactment, Gather on the Green.
>
> See Angela's note below.
>
> Regards.
> Joe A
> Sent from my iPad
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
>> From: Angela Koran <akoran at osthoff.com>
>> Date: May 17, 2013, 3:19:40 PM CDT
>> To: 'Joe Alexander' <n197tr4 at cs.com>
>> Subject: RE: KASTNER CUP  2013  IN SEPTEMBER
>>
>> Good Afternoon Joe,
>>
>> It was nice seeing you again this morning. Joe, I wanted to let you know I
got a call from my Rooms Director this morning. Leisure reservations are
starting to increase over that race weekend. We are only allowed so many group
rooms to sell verses leisure rooms each night. So as of now we are down to 30
group rooms per night over the dates you are here. It would really be
advantageous to add rooms to your block if you know they will be needed. Let
me know what you find out from the other club ASAP and I can create an
addendum for those rooms. As rooms continue to sell on the leisure side and
other sales managers sell group rooms, the inventory will continue to dwindle
and additional rooms will not be available at the contracted rate if an
addendum is not created. I just wanted to give you a heads up so you are
educated and can make a decision from there. Please let me know if you have
questions Joe. Thank you for your time and have a great weekend!
>>
>> Angela Koran
>> Sales Manager
>> 101 Osthoff Avenue
>> Elkhart Lake, WI 53020
>> 920.876.5815 direct
>> 920.876.2249 fax
>> akoran at osthoff.com
>> www.osthoffmeetings.com
>> Voted "2012 Best Wisconsin Lakeshore Resort" by Wisconsin Meetings
Magazine.
>>
>>
>>
>> -----


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon May 20 08:08:05 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 10:08:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SP
Message-ID: <56BFEC29B1AB46D998D0C373832CD462@gdhs.local>

How did it go at Summit Point this past weekend?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Mon May 20 12:20:21 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 14:20:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SP
References: <56BFEC29B1AB46D998D0C373832CD462@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <274D8DF202CB4169A427FE71FE27CBB7@TRIUMPH.local>

Awesome weekend at Summit Point for Triumphs. The track was is great form, 
the weather cooperated better than most spring race weekends in the 
mountains of West Virginia. Leo Oddi was at the top Triumph by time I think, 
and I was again blown away by how fast my car goes without all those 
expensive billet and forged bottom end bits.

The only bad part of the weekend is nobody walked up and bought my car! I 
guess I have to run it at Mosport next month. Bummer!

Also worth noting, the weekend was Mike Moore's first outing in his TR4. He 
attended the VRG Drivers School, and ran the weekend with a very large run 
group. Both car and driver did really great. Mark and I watched his feature 
race on Saturday, Mike had a great run with a bunch of MG's. We stopped by 
his paddock space after the run to see how big the grin on his face was. 
Mike's was beaming, and his whole family was there and caught in the moment. 
I don't know who was more excited! It was very, very cool...

Way to go Mike, welcome to the madness! We are glad to have you.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Subject: [Fot] SP


> How did it go at Summit Point this past weekend? 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon May 20 12:29:27 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 13:29:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] IPO.  INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING.  REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
Message-ID: <82F80BBC-61E8-486E-B320-F31B7C39BD5F@cs.com>

Sean has 10 rear mounts in process with his final design.

If you would like to reserve one, please respond.

We have an isometric view of the mechanical parts and photos of finished
parts.

It is a HD version of the existing OEM part, except it utilizes 40 durometer
urethane instead of rubber of questionable value.

It will be particularly effective in TRs with the added weight of an O.D.
unit, but in any case it will be the last rear mount you ever replace.

We have used this HD rear mount in TR4 #197 for the past two years.

Allow two weeks for delivery. Sean is having the mechanical parts plated, and
will start to pour in custom production mold. Intro cost is $50.00.

We will use the FOT response to plan for the next production run.

Thanks,  Joe A


From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon May 20 19:59:34 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 01:59:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Ian Priestly
Message-ID: <680222188.270651.1369101574070.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



Anyone on the list buy an overdrive from Ian Priestly (New Zealand). He occasionally offer conversion kits on Ebay. 



Ed Woods 


From mmoore at wave1.net  Tue May 21 08:30:53 2013
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:30:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?

 

Thanks

Mike

 

Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508

 

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue May 21 08:49:57 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:49:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>

The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is the
one to compare.
If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
reason the bottle is gold colored!
However, have never boiled the fluid again.

On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 21 09:11:21 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue May 21 09:27:53 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:27:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.243.1638252579.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Castrol SRF for me too.

Tony Drews

At 10:11 AM 5/21/2013, John Hasty wrote:
>We use  SRF.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> > different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
>the
> > one to compare.
> > If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> > In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> > the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> > mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> > reason the bottle is gold colored!
> > However, have never boiled the fluid again.
> >
> > On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
> >
> > What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael T. Moore, CPA
> >
> > 2007 West 32nd Street
> >
> > Erie, PA 16508
> >
> >
> >
> > Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
> >
> > Fax:        814-864-7383


From dforeman at fooddude.com  Tue May 21 09:31:43 2013
From: dforeman at fooddude.com (dforeman at fooddude.com)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 15:31:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>

Castrol 
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 
To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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From horizonracing at msn.com  Tue May 21 10:12:37 2013
From: horizonracing at msn.com (horizonracing)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 09:12:37 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <BAY403-EAS42250C70F8B5E5C239941A6B2A80@phx.gbl>

AP 551 on all of my cars . Compatible with girling/lockhead seals. I,ve had motul turn some rubber to mush .

My 2 cents


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> 
Date: 05/21/2013  8:28 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid 
 
Castrol SRF for me too.

Tony Drews

At 10:11 AM 5/21/2013, John Hasty wrote:
>We useB  SRF.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> > different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.B  The "wet" point is
>the
> > one to compare.
> > If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> > In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> > the brakes get hot.B  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> > mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.B  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> > reason the bottle is gold colored!
> > However, have never boiled the fluid again.
> >
> > On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
> >
> > What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > Michael T. Moore, CPA
> >
> > 2007 West 32nd Street
> >
> > Erie, PA 16508
> >
> >
> >
> > Phone: 814-868-4831B  ext 103
> >
> > Fax:B B B B B B B  814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Tue May 21 10:46:08 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:46:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <484F5DE6-735B-444C-81E2-C37E72502260@gmail.com>

Any brand of DOT 5.1 that I can find (no, that's not silicone fluid in case
anyone's wondering).

Duncan
1952 Morgan Plus 4 (4-wheel drum brakes)
Red #6


On May 21, 2013, at 9:49 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From joeg at neb.rr.com  Tue May 21 07:15:24 2013
From: joeg at neb.rr.com (Joe Guinan)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 08:15:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>

Friends,

I just got back from the Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing event at High Plains
Raceway in Colorado.  Went out with a local guy who wheels a Bugeye Sprite.
I'll post a link to his race videos when he finishes the production.  You'll
want to "ride along" on a few circuits of that track, as it is a real jewel
- see below.  I'll also work on getting my photos put up, and will post a
link to those as soon as I finish.  There were about a hundred different
cars at the event - from a McLaren CanAm car to a nearly stock MGA running
Historic Class.

I had a great time over the weekend.  They needed course workers to help man
some stations on the track because several regular workers were at The
Circuit Of The Americas in Austin, TX for a V8 Supercars event.  Others were
called off to safety training at Pikes Peak to get ready for the annual hill
climb there.  They were almost forced to shorten the course, which would
have been a real shame as two really cool track sections would have been
lost. Another friend from our travelling party and I ended up volunteering
and they managed to find enough other workers to keep the entire track open
for racing.

My buddy in the Sprite has been telling me how much he liked the track at
HPR and I now understand why.  It's an outstanding facility for the kind of
racing I want to do.   Unlike the two pretty flat tracks closer to me (MAM
near Council Bluffs, Iowa and MPH in Hastings, Nebraska), it has elevation
changes of up to 70 feet in some sections. There seemed to be passing
opportunities almost everywhere I looked, blind apexes in a couple spots, a
couple decreasing radius corners, some fast sweepers, a corkscrew, some nice
"esses", and a couple nice long straight sections.  The track seemed like it
would be a challenge, punishing mistakes but rewarding when attacked
properly.  I only got to ride along on three laps during one lunch break,
but I felt there were sections of the track that flowed very nicely. I
particularly liked the view downhill on what they call "To Hell On A
Bobsled" (corners 9a, 9b and 10).

I REALLY enjoyed my time at Turn 4 - the end of the longest straight
section.  I got to see the cars at speed up close and saw quite a bit of
racing action.  The racing was aggressive, but efforts were made to keep
everything "in the vintage spirit".  I saw more than one incident that in
SCCA (Sports Car Crashing Association"?) would have resulted in contact.
These resulted in a couple "off track excursions" when the overtaking driver
avoided contact by bailing out.  I'm not completely sure, but I don't think
there was any "metal to metal" all weekend.  Working allowed me a great
opportunity to see what it takes behind the scenes to put on a good event,
and gave me an appreciation for the work done by the many volunteers.  I was
impressed by the nearly "professional" level of organization at the event
and how everyone still managed to be friendly and outgoing and generous with
information.

My only regret was that I didn't manage to spend much time with the FOT
guys.  With trying to fix an ignition problem on the Bugeye Saturday night,
and working Turn 4 all day Sunday, I just didn't have the time to do
everything.  I wanted to spend some time hunting down Spitfire
owners/drivers/wrenches so I could pick their brains and managed to figure
some things out that should help me with my Spitfires.  I did get to meet
Kevin Lynch, "Too Damn Funky" Jim Grace, Mark Eden and son Christian, and we
paddocked next to Dan Forgey and "The Black Pearl" - his beautiful black
TR4. I missed getting into Race Control to meet Bill Rosenbach.  I also
didn't get race results yet, so hope to see a report from one of those guys
about how the FOT upheld it's honor over the weekend.

We started finalizing plans we for finishing my old SCCA Spitfire on the way
home, and it sounds like we might even get another car or two started for
some other guys.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Tue May 21 09:52:13 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:52:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
	<1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <3359D383-5468-4E0C-8CCD-1FED1F9DD66E@austin.rr.com>

I use ATE Super Blue. They also make an Amber version which is compatible and
is supposed to allow you to have 100 certainty when you flush out old fluid.
I'm still on the blue and I like it but the Castrol SRF out specs it. Like I
do with VR1 racing oil and GL4 gear oil, I like to do fluid changes often and
therefore I stay away from higher priced synthetics. ATE is a good fluid for
flushers like me!

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:31 AM, dforeman at fooddude.com wrote:

> Castrol
>>>>> Sent via Wireless<<<<
> David Foreman
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21
> To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid
>
> We use  SRF.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
>> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
> the
>> one to compare.
>> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
>> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as
yours,
>> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
>> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
>> reason the bottle is gold colored!
>> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>>
>> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>> Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>>
>> Fax:        814-864-7383
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue May 21 12:40:08 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 14:40:08 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.7.1369072802.29291.fot@autox.team.net>
	<001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <7f3b50de50cc6e3bbd0af2769372f5dd.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

Hey Joe,

Very nice write-up, thanks.  Yeah, working the corners
is not only great fun, but the second best spectator
seat in the house.  This makes me miss my days as a
corner worker with RMVR (back in the '80's - now I
feel old!).

John

On Tue, May 21, 2013 9:15 am, Joe Guinan wrote:
> Friends,

<Snip>

> I had a great time over the weekend.  They needed course workers to help
> man
> some stations on the track because several regular workers were at The
> Circuit Of The Americas in Austin, TX for a V8 Supercars event.  Others
> were
> called off to safety training at Pikes Peak to get ready for the annual
> hill
> climb there.  They were almost forced to shorten the course, which would
> have been a real shame as two really cool track sections would have been
> lost. Another friend from our travelling party and I ended up volunteering
> and they managed to find enough other workers to keep the entire track
> open
> for racing.

<Snip>


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Tue May 21 13:07:05 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:07:05 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202BD32A@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Castrol LMA.

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Mike Moore
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 9:31 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid

What's the fluid of choice for you guys?



Thanks

Mike



Michael T. Moore, CPA

2007 West 32nd Street

Erie, PA 16508



Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103

Fax:        814-864-7383
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue May 21 15:55:22 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 07:55:22 +1000
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>

Joe

i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
urethane.

we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
totally solved the mount problems

whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
mount.

thanks

Terry


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 21 16:48:33 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 17:48:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>

I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
understood his first two paragraphs.

I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand what
he was asking.

I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.

We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the expectation
that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.

It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and frame
isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be looking
forward to his reply.

Any other points of discussion?

Joe A
Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:

> Joe
>
> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
> urethane.
>
> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
> totally solved the mount problems
>
> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
> mount.
>
> thanks
>
> Terry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue May 21 17:40:28 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 09:40:28 +1000
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>

joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
mount.

design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).

mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
doing tests on various designs.

good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop

Terry





On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I understood his first two paragraphs.
>
> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand what he was asking.
>
> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>
> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>
> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be looking forward to his reply.
>
> Any other points of discussion?
>
> Joe A
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>
>> Joe
>>
>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>> urethane.
>>
>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>> totally solved the mount problems
>>
>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>> mount.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Terry
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 21 18:06:33 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:06:33 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>

Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus the
ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
problem.

The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.

So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was offered
and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next run.

If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a computer
isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.

Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had no
prior knowledge of.

Best Regards,

Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!

Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:

> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
> mount.
>
> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>
> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
> doing tests on various designs.
>
> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>
> Terry
>
>
>
>
>
> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
understood his first two paragraphs.
>>
>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand
what he was asking.
>>
>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>
>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>
>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
looking forward to his reply.
>>
>> Any other points of discussion?
>>
>> Joe A
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
<enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>> urethane.
>>>
>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>
>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>> mount.
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>> Terry
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From igofaster at att.net  Tue May 21 20:47:09 2013
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<7E86C8E4-2ACC-49A5-850B-836C2DAE8AAA@me.com>
	<CF7D0979-1183-40BD-8AFE-A17A0D316338@gdhs.com>
	<1373812329-1369150305-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-388028693-@b15.c12.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <1369190829.38629.YahooMailRC@web182206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I'm using Motol...   Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: "dforeman at fooddude.com" <dforeman at fooddude.com>
To: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; Scott Janzen 
<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, May 21, 2013 10:32:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

Castrol 
>>>>Sent via Wireless<<<<
David Foreman


-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:21 
To: Scott Janzen<sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

We use  SRF.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 21, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The Pegasus catalog is a handy reference because they offer about ten
> different fluids and their wet and dry boiling points.  The "wet" point is
the
> one to compare.
> If your brakes don't run really hot, the Motul 660 is a good value.
> In the GT6, with 13" wheels, and a car that weighs almost as much as yours,
> the brakes get hot.  I boiled the fluid once sitting in the pits during a
> mandatory enduro stop on a hot day.  I now run Castrol SRF, but there's a
> reason the bottle is gold colored!
> However, have never boiled the fluid again.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 10:30 AM, Mike Moore wrote:
>
> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>
> 2007 West 32nd Street
>
> Erie, PA 16508
>
>
>
> Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
>
> Fax:        814-864-7383
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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_______________________________________________
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Wed May 22 00:08:32 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 23:08:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>

Something tells me it will be better than my usual practice of welding the
plates together. I haven't noticed what Tony Garmey has done for mounts, but
Peyote used to be solid mounts in all three corners. I suspect Tony tossed
that away long ago.

On May 21, 2013, at 5:06 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus
the
> ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
> problem.
>
> The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.
>
> So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was offered
> and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next
run.
>
> If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a
computer
> isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.
>
> Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had
no
> prior knowledge of.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>
>> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
>> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
>> mount.
>>
>> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
>> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
>> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
>> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
>> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>>
>> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
>> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
>> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
>> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
>> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
>> doing tests on various designs.
>>
>> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>>
>> Terry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
> understood his first two paragraphs.
>>>
>>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't understand
> what he was asking.
>>>
>>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>>
>>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
> expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>>
>>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
> frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
> looking forward to his reply.
>>>
>>> Any other points of discussion?
>>>
>>> Joe A
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Joe
>>>>
>>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>>> urethane.
>>>>
>>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>>
>>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>>> mount.
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>>>
>>>> Terry
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Wed May 22 04:45:41 2013
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:45:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
Message-ID: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>

I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough 
heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .

I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid


> What's the fluid of choice for you guys? 


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 05:08:35 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:08:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <A531CBA9-ACFE-473B-BC38-23A0FAAFF57B@austin.rr.com>

I used to do the exact same procedure using Castrol LMA but the Lemons TR6
experience taught me that you can boil it after a few hours in the Texas
summer heat. The better fluids absorb less moisture and handle the heat
better. At $20 a pint instead of $7 the ATE is good insurance and I get to
skip a few blessings here and there.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 5:45 AM, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

> I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an
> issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto
> parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough
> heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .
>
> I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends
> bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all


From Janzen at REcatalyst.com  Wed May 22 06:59:15 2013
From: Janzen at REcatalyst.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 08:59:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
Message-ID: <299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>

I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side, the
second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
 I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.

I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Wed May 22 06:59:40 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 08:59:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <C4FAA592BCCC45D198370831791DAEBD@hpd530>

I use the same, Henry. Never had a problem.
Mike: glad you had fun at SP; wish  I could have been there.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>; "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid


>I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
>issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
>parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get 
>enough heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. 
>.
>
> I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
> bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
> To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
> Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
>
>
>> What's the fluid of choice for you guys?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed May 22 07:50:19 2013
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 09:50:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
Message-ID: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>

In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Janzen at REcatalyst.com writes:


> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one 
> side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
> I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
> 
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> 

All good points based on my experience.  One time I lost a trailer wheel 
towing through Plymouth, Wisconsin on the way to Road America.  I must have 
traveled a good mile and one half with only one wheel on the outside.  Some 
'good soul' saw me loose it, chased it, and then chased me to return it.  You 
can't buy that kind of roadside help.  It either comes for nothing, or you 
don't get it.  I replaced both tires on that side of the trailer, and since 
the stud holes were hogged out, I had to replace the wheel too.  Then last 
year, my wife and I had a blowout in the mountains coming back from the Mitty. 
 We're getting a little long in the tooth for changing tires on a loaded 
trailer, especially in the mountains with little or no pull off area.  
Fortunately it was on the inside, I was able to ease it to an area that had minimal 
adjacent room to pull off.  The rig was off the road, somewhat level, but 
we were working from a pretty steep incline.  The biggest problem was my 
aluminum jack had difficulty lifting the loaded trailer high enough to get the 
tire off the road.  It took a jack stand, and taking several new bites, but 
we finally got it changed.  We then got off at the next exit where we were 
able to replace both tires on that side.  Trailer tires is not a good place to 
try to 'save money'.  Buy good ones, over rated for the job.

Bob Wismer uses a single axle trailer, has had some blowout adventures, and 
now buys new trailer tires every 4 years regardless of tread depth or 
appearance.

Bill Dentinger


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed May 22 08:02:03 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:02:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
References: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>

After traveling to races for some 27 years and having more "tire adventures"
than I ever wanted and hearing of a few motorhome episodes others had where
tires failed and tore up the coach itself, I took the advice of a good
friend Mack McCormick and installed a tire monitoring system. It was pretty
inexpensive; wireless and simple to install and program. The peace of mind
is great and I no longer am wondering if a tire is going bad when a weird
road surface causes strange noises. The system monitors temperatures and
pressures and will also alarm if there's a rapid air loss, giving the driver
an advance notice. I have no financial connection with these folks. There
are other systems also out there. It is not expensive. 

http://www.tsttruck.com/Home_Page.html

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:50 AM
To: Janzen at REcatalyst.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info

In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
Janzen at REcatalyst.com writes:


> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one 
> side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
> I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
> 
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> 

All good points based on my experience.  One time I lost a trailer wheel 
towing through Plymouth, Wisconsin on the way to Road America.  I must have 
traveled a good mile and one half with only one wheel on the outside.  Some 
'good soul' saw me loose it, chased it, and then chased me to return it.
You 
can't buy that kind of roadside help.  It either comes for nothing, or you 
don't get it.  I replaced both tires on that side of the trailer, and since 
the stud holes were hogged out, I had to replace the wheel too.  Then last 
year, my wife and I had a blowout in the mountains coming back from the
Mitty. 
 We're getting a little long in the tooth for changing tires on a loaded 
trailer, especially in the mountains with little or no pull off area.  
Fortunately it was on the inside, I was able to ease it to an area that had
minimal 
adjacent room to pull off.  The rig was off the road, somewhat level, but 
we were working from a pretty steep incline.  The biggest problem was my 
aluminum jack had difficulty lifting the loaded trailer high enough to get
the 
tire off the road.  It took a jack stand, and taking several new bites, but 
we finally got it changed.  We then got off at the next exit where we were 
able to replace both tires on that side.  Trailer tires is not a good place
to 
try to 'save money'.  Buy good ones, over rated for the job.

Bob Wismer uses a single axle trailer, has had some blowout adventures, and 
now buys new trailer tires every 4 years regardless of tread depth or 
appearance.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Wed May 22 11:34:51 2013
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 10:34:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
Message-ID: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>

We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race 
at Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section 
of I5.  A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - 
I never felt or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it 
off, the windshield wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the 
freeway off ramp.  Put on my spare and then found a replacement wheel 
and tire to carry with me as a spare.  I replaced all four of the 
remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my race tire dealer bring 
them to the track which was very convenient.

On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side, the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>   I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 05:42:29 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 06:42:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
	<B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>

I have used the TRF HD tranny mounts with the cavity filled with automotive
silicone successfully now for years. Welded mounts used with racing engine
mounts caused float bowl issues for me. The silicone acts like the gel in
running shoes, absorbs a lot of harmonics.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 1:08 AM, Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote:

> Something tells me it will be better than my usual practice of welding the
> plates together. I haven't noticed what Tony Garmey has done for mounts,
but
> Peyote used to be solid mounts in all three corners. I suspect Tony tossed
> that away long ago.
>
> On May 21, 2013, at 5:06 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Thank you very much. Sean has good experience in mold fixture design, thus
> the
>> ability to produce a somewhat intuitive design to overcome a frequent
>> problem.
>>
>> The mention of "voids" in the design is duly noted for tuning.
>>
>> So far, the response for product is well past the first 10 that was
offered
>> and I am sure Sean is mulling over the production quantity for the next
> run.
>>
>> If anyone else wishes to see a picture of the finished product and a
> computer
>> isometric view of the mechanical parts, just ask.
>>
>> Thanks again, Terry, for the review of the components and insights we had
> no
>> prior knowledge of.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> Joe A.                           WAY TO GO, Sean!
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 21, 2013, at 6:40 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
>> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>
>>> joe, i think you have answered the question by saying you have not
>>> experienced a rise in vibrations with this soft (40 duro) urethane
>>> mount.
>>>
>>> design looks good with what appears to be adequate segregation of the
>>> internal metal components. my experience suggests you need at least
>>> 5-6 mm of urethane all around the support plates for the bolts. this
>>> allows enough internal movement before the urethane  goes into
>>> compression "lock-up" eg, as the box rocks around on start up).
>>>
>>> mounts like this are typically "tuned" by changing the location, size
>>> and shape of voids cast into the urethane in the lower part. this is
>>> the step that most custom mount makers ignore , but what separates a
>>> really good design from the rest. this will only come from real life
>>> experiences or ideally, from setting up accelerometers on the box and
>>> doing tests on various designs.
>>>
>>> good luck, i'll buy one when ready. keep me in the loop
>>>
>>> Terry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 22 May 2013 08:48, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>>> I sent Terry the design of the A.R.E. Mount. I also indicated that I
>> understood his first two paragraphs.
>>>>
>>>> I asked for a clarification of the third paragraph as I didn't
understand
>> what he was asking.
>>>>
>>>> I did share that we experienced no increase in driveline vibration.
>>>>
>>>> We have not tried this design in our street TRs yet, but have the
>> expectation that this 40 durometer rear mount will perform well.
>>>>
>>>> It is clear that Terry has a very wide range of experience in body and
>> frame isolation. There is certainly something to be learned and will be
>> looking forward to his reply.
>>>>
>>>> Any other points of discussion?
>>>>
>>>> Joe A
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On May 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Enquiries Road & Track"
>> <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Joe
>>>>>
>>>>> i get involved with urethane & hard rubber mounts on a  daily basis.
>>>>> my impression of urethane mounts is they are fine in race cars and
>>>>> crappy elsewhere as they just don't have the resilience of rubber, so
>>>>> they transmit a lot of vibrations that rubber mounts absorb. we have
>>>>> experimented here with all sorts and grades of both rubber and
>>>>> urethane.
>>>>>
>>>>> we have removed really hard urethane mounts from modern race/rally
>>>>> cars as they been a major factor in fatigue cracking the steel
>>>>> bodywork where the mounting plate affixes. notable examples are Toyota
>>>>> GT4 and Mitsu Evo lancer, where we have changed to custom rubber
>>>>> mounts (harder duro, different voiding compared with factory) and
>>>>> totally solved the mount problems
>>>>>
>>>>> whilst i understand the TR is a lot sturdier than these 2 examples,
>>>>> and the same is unlikely to occur, can you please comment on the
>>>>> vibration aspects in respect to what you have planned for the TR rear
>>>>> mount.
>>>>>
>>>>> thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> Terry
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Wed May 22 11:55:48 2013
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 12:55:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>
References: <42a2d.9746895.3ece271a@aol.com>
	<003301ce56f4$efd13fc0$cf73bf40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <6F3C407A-5B65-4032-985A-116227D7CB0F@austin.rr.com>

Don't forget that truck tire shops offer road service. I learned this a couple
of years ago, the hard way.

I too have moved to the 4 year method after losing a tire on the 28 ft, 2 car,
10K rig. After swapping a spare I took it to a truck tire shop and had them
replace the blown out tire and headed off toward the track. I stopped for
lunch only to catch z second "perfectly good" tire separating treads. I called
the truck tire company and they set me up with road service and I had the
other three replaced.

Bob Kramer
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2013, at 9:02 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> After traveling to races for some 27 years and having more "tire
adventures"
> than I ever wanted and hearing of a few motorhome episodes others had where
> tires failed and tore up the coach itself, I took the advice of a good
> friend Mack McCormick and installed a tire monitoring system. It was pretty
> inexpensive; wireless and simple to install and program. The peace of mind
> is great and I no longer am wondering if a tire is going bad when a weird
> road surface causes strange noises. The system monitors temperatures and
> pressures and will also alarm if there's a rapid air loss, giving the
driver
> an advance notice. I have no financial connection with these folks. There
> are other systems also out there. It is not expensive.
>
> http://www.tsttruck.com/Home_Page.html
>
> Russ Moore
> Spitfire #49
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of BillDentin at aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 9:50 AM
> To: Janzen at REcatalyst.com
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
>
> In a message dated 05/22/2013 7:59:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
> Janzen at REcatalyst.com w


From ponobill at gmail.com  Wed May 22 12:41:43 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 11:41:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
	<519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <80E7F803-E87B-4E61-BE71-9DE2BFE6801B@bnj.com>

One thing that makes trailer tires particularly prone to punctures is that
your truck drive wheels stand up nails. If your tire stands up nails often
enough your trailer will find one that's standing just as it runs over it.
It's the same reason you get nails in your back tires and not in your front.
The cure is the same as we used to do ot motorcycles--put a stiff flap in
front of the tires to knock the nails back down. On bikes it changed flats
from common to never.


On May 22, 2013, at 10:34 AM, Jim Norlin <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
wrote:

> We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race at
Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section of I5.
A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - I never felt
or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it off, the windshield
wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the freeway off ramp.  Put on my
spare and then found a replacement wheel and tire to carry with me as a spare.
I replaced all four of the remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my
race tire dealer bring them to the track which was very convenient.
>
> On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side,
the
>> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
>> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>>  I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
>> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
>> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
>> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>>
>> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From walt at hot-tr6.com  Wed May 22 12:53:35 2013
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 12:53:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 heater fan motor
Message-ID: <000001ce571d$aa4611f0$fed235d0$@hot-tr6.com>

I need a working heater fan motor for a 1973 Triumph TR6 restoration I am
working on. If any FOT member has one they can sell me please contact me
directly.

Thank You,

Walter Hollowell

Albuquerque, New Mexico

Ph 505 362-4350


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May 22 13:37:20 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 15:37:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup Shirts and Drivers
Message-ID: <BLU168-W113440C9A913549BAAD97A1BAA90@phx.gbl>

Third to last call.  If you are planning on competing in the Kastner Cup event
at Road America in September and have not given me your name and car info so I
can include you on the back of the shirt you might want to do so. You can
always notify me at "last call" in July and tell me to remove your info if you
decide you wont be making it. We currently have a little over 60 drivers
planning on attending. I will be sending a list of names for placement on the
FOT site in the near future. Also, if you are going to order shirts and have
not done so you should get that done. For the shirt order I will need your
name and address, how many of what size shirts you want, whether you want the
shirts mailed to you or if you will be picking them up at the track. Again,
for payment, after I place the order in July you will need to contact Ted S.
and make arrangements to pay him directly. OK, now read the shirt order info
again as there is always questions on this. :) If you have done the above you
would have received a confirmation email from me at that time so no need to
resend. There are 116 shirts on order so far. All shirts are pre-order.

Thanks,


From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Wed May 22 14:14:16 2013
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (J. Wagner)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 13:14:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] INITIAL PRODUCT OFFERING. REAR MOUNT TR3/TR4
In-Reply-To: <41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>
References: <CA+UW8b1PoJL2JERc11MmJm6Kj2ERe1s7n1y8gAvhd9KdBHB99A@mail.gmail.com>
	<A43C68AD-2984-4F3C-8EDC-F372F09567CF@cs.com>
	<CA+UW8b1xTG=6vp7wLYONEojbKgpVsYhYfjYh=cSxz0wAEV3WUQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E8308B5-C548-49E5-9A07-1B5B4F89E4C9@cs.com>
	<B34856AF-BBB9-4518-A00C-62AB923F0566@bnj.com>
	<41A27A96-BF37-4F06-9722-947BCEE52470@austin.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CFC60013-6650-4038-8615-9F878899BE1E@greenheart.com>

> I like Bob's idea of injecting the void with silicone.
>
> On my street TR4A, many years ago, I trimmed and punched holes in piece of
brass shim stock that I put between the rear trans mount and tranny like a
gasket, but left a few inches of material hanging out along the front edge
that I strategically bent down to create an oil shield from the oil the
inevitably makes its way through the drain hole just below the clutch and
whatever other sources of motor oil that makes its way to this area.  It has
kept my rear mount bone dry for years.   I believe this has increased the life
of the mount quite significantly by keeping the degrading properties of oil
off the natural rubber.  Before this, it seems like I replaced a lot of mounts
on various Triumphs I have owned not so much from dry-cracking as much as
simply dissolving!
> Food for thought.
>
> I'm very curious to hear more about Joe's new rear mount.
>
> --Justin
>
> On May 22, 2013, at 4:42 AM, Bob Kramer <rkramer3 at austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> I have used the TRF HD tranny mounts with the cavity filled with
automotive
>> silicone successfully now for years. Welded mounts used with racing engine
>> mounts caused float bowl issues for me. The silicone acts like the gel in
>> running shoes, absorbs a lot of harmonics.
>>
>> Bob Kramer
>> Sent from my iPhone


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May 22 14:21:41 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 16:21:41 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT Logo
Message-ID: <BLU168-W62E0D6C6448CFC3B188149BAA90@phx.gbl>

I need a clean jpeg of the FOT logo. I had one at one time but don't know
where I filed it so I wouldn't lose it. Anybody have it they could email me?

Thanks,


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed May 22 14:23:38 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:23:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Fot, 

I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is any consensus. 

The question is two parts. 

EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach users guide will say the probes should be located 

6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey readings out there so he suggests 6" from the valve. 

That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's but yet my plugs are telling a richer story. 

It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the probe is right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus 

reading artificially high. 



So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what kind of EGT's they see. 

When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 1400F as normal. 

It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston melting going on. 



Thanks again for the input, 

jim g 


From cofrog at q.com  Wed May 22 15:05:51 2013
From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:05:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>

Thanks to you for working a corner and to all the workers who enabled us to run the long course.  I'm glad you enjoyed the weekend.  I hope to see you and Terry Davis at Hastings.

All who run High Plains give it high marks.  I hope that folks decide to take a tow out here and check it out.  It would be an outstanding track for a Kastner Cup except for it's relative remoteness for those who stay in Motels.   

I don't know if it's me but I'm unable to get any results on My Laps since they supposedly they "improved" the site.  If anyone knows anything about what's up with My Laps please share.  Due to Jim Gray having mechanical issues I was able to take D Production in the four races I ran with Jim Roelofs in lurking mode in his TR4. 

Dan Forgey


_______________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 16:58:08 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:58:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid
In-Reply-To: <07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <002c01ce562f$cef2e6c0$6cd8b440$@net>
	<07BD9CD3A38B4D4D8C962AFD053D81C4@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <001101ce573f$d4daac60$7e900520$@com>

We've been using NAPA DOT 4 Bake fluid for at least 5 years.  The cans used
to be marked "Low Moisture Absorbing" but are not marked as that any more.
The wet boiling point is "at least 311 degrees F".  We've never had any
problems and bleed and change the fluid before each season.

For what it's worth, the temperature of our front rotors coming off the
track after a session range between 300 deg F and 450 deg. F.  The large
variation is probably dependent on the track and how for our paddock area is
from the track exit.  At any given track and paddock area, the number is
pretty consistent.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of yellow04 at tr4racer.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 5:46 AM
To: Mike Moore; 'FOT'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake Fluid

I know this goes against what most are saying here, but I have never had an 
issue with Castrol LMA, the stuff you can buy off the shelf at most auto 
parts stores. With Vintage legal race tires, I don't think we can get enough

heat into the brakes to boil Castrol LMA. Or at least I never have. .

I change the fluid completely every off season, and between race weekends 
bleed the system enough to change out the fluid at all four corners.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore at wave1.net>
To: "'FOT'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid


> What's the fluid of choice for you guys? 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 17:06:57 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:06:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info
In-Reply-To: <519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
References: <A35F6B78-F395-4DD3-8E1F-1F1BACCCC314@me.com>
	<299F0176-AED1-42DD-AF60-E39F8DC524BE@REcatalyst.com>
	<519D01BB.7020802@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001201ce5741$12719f10$3754dd30$@com>

Ryan lost a tire when he was using the trailer (24 foot enclosed) to haul
some surplus equipment, shelves, workbenches etc.  The tire pretty much just
disintegrated and he noticed it right away as the pieces were bouncing off
the trailer making quite a racket.  Fortunately he was only a couple of
miles from the shop.  We carry 12" square by 2" thick pieces of wood on the
trailer and we were able to easily drive the tire that was left up onto a
wood ramp to take off the old wheel and put on the spare.  That was always
our plan if we had a flat and it worked good.  We then replaced all 4 tires
with ones with a  load rating of "E", I think they are 10 ply.  The old ones
were "D" load rated.  The old tires were 6 years old without that many miles
on them.

Tim & Ryan

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 12:35 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] [VRG NewsGroup] Trailer tire info

We lost the right rear trailer tire on the way to the Kastner Cup race 
at Laguna Seca.  It was near Stockton on a really bumpy concrete section 
of I5.  A passing driver started waving frantically at me as he passed - 
I never felt or heard a thing.  It was pouring down rain and to top it 
off, the windshield wiper motor conked out as I was driving down the 
freeway off ramp.  Put on my spare and then found a replacement wheel 
and tire to carry with me as a spare.  I replaced all four of the 
remaining tires the next race weekend.  I had my race tire dealer bring 
them to the track which was very convenient.

On 5/22/2013 5:59 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I've been told that on a dual axle trailer, once a tire fails on one side,
the
> second is likely to go- either due to the sudden added load at speed, or
> pieces of the adjacent tire beating on it as it disintegrates.
>   I've had the same experience with tires lasting 4-5 years and then all
> failing within a narrow time span - if they don't pick up a nail first.
> Trailer tires seem to be magnets for punctures.
> I now carry two spares at all times, and a plug kit.
>
> I like the idea of going up a load range or two to keep them underloaded!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed May 22 17:19:48 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:19:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001301ce5742$db9842d0$92c8c870$@com>

We have a TR4 with about 11:1 CR.  Our EGT's are mounted on #1 and #4 header
pipes about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inches from the cylinder head.  They are not
exactly equal.  #1 and #4 header pipes were used because they were a lot
easier to get the probes on.  At 3000 RPM "idle" (no load) we get between
800 and 1000 degrees.  Down the straights we get between 1300 and 1400
degrees, WOT in 4th.

One note for what it's worth: the pistons are being cooled every cycle by
the incoming charge whereas the EGT probes do not get any appreciable
cooling.  Even the exhaust ports get some cooling from the water jacket.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 3:24 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again

Fot, 

I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is any
consensus. 

The question is two parts. 

EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach users guide
will say the probes should be located 

6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey readings out
there so he suggests 6" from the valve. 

That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's but yet
my plugs are telling a richer story. 

It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the probe is
right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus 

reading artificially high. 



So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what kind of
EGT's they see. 

When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 1400F
as normal. 

It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston melting
going on. 



Thanks again for the input, 

jim g 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May 22 19:07:55 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:07:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals.  100 produced
Message-ID: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>

I ordered and received 100 FOT decals today.

$10 will get you two delivered to your address.

Checks preferred, but PayPal is convenient.

FOT  
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA.  50648

PayPal.  N197tr4 at cs.com

Thanks

Sent from my iPad


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May 22 21:19:27 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 22:19:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.eme
	ryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.244.1638252580.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I run about 6" from the flange.  I run 1400 in the 2nd half of the 
straights and have never seen any evidence of melting on my forget 
pistons.  I suspect that thinner cast pistons may be more susceptible 
to melting.  I also run 110 octane leaded and about 32 degrees of advance.

Tony Drews

At 03:23 PM 5/22/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>Fot,
>
>I know this has been brought up before but I don't know if there is 
>any consensus.
>
>The question is two parts.
>
>EGT probe location and what are considered normal temps. Westach 
>users guide will say the probes should be located
>
>6" from the manifold but Sam H says you start getting flakey 
>readings out there so he suggests 6" from the valve.
>
>That's right about where I'm at but I am seeing 1250 F on the EGT's 
>but yet my plugs are telling a richer story.
>
>It's been suggested that any less than 3" from the manifold and the 
>probe is right in the flame coming out of the valve and thus
>
>reading artificially high.
>
>
>
>So, just curious as to where peo ple locate thier probes and what 
>kind of EGT's they see.
>
>When I read threads from other makes I hear about people considering 
>1400F as normal.
>
>It seems that if that were a true reading there would be some piston 
>melting going on.
>
>
>
>Thanks again for the input,
>
>jim g
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May 23 06:03:50 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305230749430.12428@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything 
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the 
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with 
clutch disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem 
could be that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but 
I installed a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch 
installation - and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel 
spin or clutch slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock 
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can 
restrict the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch 
release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a 
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push 
the slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a 
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new 
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross 
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when 
I start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta 
work on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sjanzen at me.com  Thu May 23 06:42:37 2013
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:42:37 -0400
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again
In-Reply-To: <20130523032321.5B5E340E67@autox.team.net>
References: <730394590.1893398.1369253880777.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<2039885319.1893570.1369254218846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523032321.5B5E340E67@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>

2" from the head.   1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
determine.


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu May 23 08:19:22 2013
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:19:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
Message-ID: <368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks guys for the input.

We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange

and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
1362F for EGT's.

Very helpful,

Jim G.



----- Original Message -----


From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again

2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
determine.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 08:30:01 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:30:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emer
	yville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.245.1638252580.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and 
included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the 
EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".

Tony Drews

At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>Thanks guys for the input.
>
>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>
>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
>1362F for EGT's.
>
>Very helpful,
>
>Jim G.
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>
>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees advance.
>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
>determine.


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May 23 09:38:17 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:38:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>

Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you shoot 
for?
Thanks, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages


> By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and included 
> the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the EGT's produced 
> at that time as "baseline".
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>
>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>
>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange 
>>and
>>1362F for EGT's.
>>
>>Very helpful,
>>
>>Jim G.
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>
>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees 
>>advance.
>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers 
>>to
>>determine.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Thu May 23 09:49:27 2013
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (K LYNCH)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:49:27 -0600
Subject: [Fot] LBC parts quest
Message-ID: <BLU178-DS566A3586FB0B49BA7D719B7AA0@phx.gbl>

Hi gang.
I'm looking for a pair of seats from a (57'?) A.H. 100-4.
I realize this is a longshot, but thought I'd run this up the flag-pole.
Thanks in advance !

Kev Lynch
Colo.


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 09:57:53 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:57:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
Message-ID: <mailman.246.1638252580.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than 
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 
12.5:1.  So, some of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when 
the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The 
leaded gas kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno 
session and we killed it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you 
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and 
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the 
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the flange and
>>>1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 
>>>degrees advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1 compression
>>>I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time with the webers to
>>>determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu May 23 10:32:06 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 16:32:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
Message-ID: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello friends, 
I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem. 
I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will have to come off the pad. 


Thanks, 
Dave 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu May 23 10:36:58 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:36:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
Message-ID: <8D2D4845-668D-4D87-88EB-BBA45CFE69D8@cs.com>

There about 20 decals spoken for.

I would like to do several at once, so if you are thinking about, please go
ahead.

And then I can put the money back in the FOT Fund, too.

It wouldn't hurt thank the 22 folks who recently made contributions to the
fund. This really makes planning and decisions much easier.

While I am at it, if you have an outstanding balance on your Lester Garage
stall, please remit ASAP.

Jason and I reviewed our paddock area last Friday and it continues to seem
ideal.

Thanks,

Joe


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 10:37:39 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 11:37:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emer
	yville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.247.1638252580.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up.  For 
racing, I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ).  We 
didn't like the Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked 
easily, were hard on the rotors and left little bits of molten rotor 
stuck in the paint of the wheel.

Cheers, Tony

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote:
>Hello friends,
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have 
>put over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over 
>and they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between 
>stops sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from 
>Moss and the outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious 
>that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads 
>went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying to 
>fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss 
>pads where fat and same problem.
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have 
>had no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I 
>guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has 
>anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and 
>hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" 
>will have to come off the pad.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu May 23 10:48:54 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:48:54 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01ce57d5$6a219780$3e64c680$@com>

I run EBC yellow stuff.
They always fit well. But they are not aggressive pads. They do a gentle
job, especially on the wet.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von davehogye
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 23. Mai 2013 18:32
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit

Hello friends,
I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over
500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered
a set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit
in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper,
but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until
trying to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the
Moss pads where fat and same problem.
I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured,
calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this.
Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside
pads to fit them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be
measuring things and hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like
at least .050" will have to come off the pad.


Thanks,
Dave
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Thu May 23 11:31:33 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:31:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D66C37DB-D14C-40CF-81DB-4E6787910EC8@bnj.com>

Sure, it's a common problem with aftermarket calipers. You can shim the
calipers to center them, or shave the pads. Easiest way to shave pads it to
put a flat metal plate on a drill press and chuck a cup grinding wheel in the
drill. Slide the pad around under the cup to remove layers. wear a respirator.

Mr. Kastner told me about this many years ago as a way to eliminate taper from
a worn or glazed disk. Works great.
On May 23, 2013, at 9:32 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hello friends,
> I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put over
500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I ordered a
set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit in
the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, but
the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until trying
to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads
where fat and same problem.
> I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not remanufactured,
calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. Perhaps
the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit
them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and
hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will have
to come off the pad.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 23 12:06:56 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 14:06:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <20130523164525.3890340527@autox.team.net>
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523164525.3890340527@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C71DB683AECE4714AB735A6FC440ECA4@gdhs.local>

We use Carbotech in my TR3A race car as well.  Be sure and tell Mike
(704-481-8554) they are for your TR3 so they won't make them too thick as
used in some of the NASCAR applications.  My part # is CTGD500-AX6.  He has
a record under my name as to the correct thickness.....


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:38 PM
To: davehogye; Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up.  For racing,
I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ).  We didn't like the
Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked easily, were hard on the
rotors and left little bits of molten rotor stuck in the paint of the wheel.

Cheers, Tony

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote:
>Hello friends,
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and 
>they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops 
>sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the 
>outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is 
>not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I 
>hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another 
>set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem.
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had 
>no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess 
>I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else 
>come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out 
>what's going on, but it looks like at least .050"
>will have to come off the pad.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
_______________________________________________
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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu May 23 12:15:41 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:15:41 +0000
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
	<20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>

And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that gasoline fuel
stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's right as usual.  I've
been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and thinking that was a good thing.

Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at the
plugs...



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
To: Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 12.5:1.  So, some
of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The leaded gas
kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno session and we killed
it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
>>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
>>>advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
>>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
>>>with the webers to determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu May 23 12:31:34 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 13:31:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccart
	y-law.com>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com>
	<368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net>
	<DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530>
	<20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.248.1638252580.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

14.7:1 is for unleaded gas / cat converter.  The EPA redefined it for us.

Tony

At 01:15 PM 5/23/2013, Barr, Scott wrote:
>Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>
>
>And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that 
>gasoline fuel stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's 
>right as usual.  I've been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and 
>thinking that was a good thing.
>
>Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at 
>the plugs...
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] 
>On Behalf Of Tony Drews
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
>To: Bill Tobin
>Cc: fot
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer 
>than stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 
>12.5:1.  So, some of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when 
>the exhaust port opens.
>
>The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The 
>leaded gas kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno 
>session and we killed it by the end of the testing.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
> >Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
> >shoot for?
> >Thanks, Bill
> >----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> >To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> >Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
> >
> >
> >>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
> >>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
> >>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
> >>
> >>Tony Drews
> >>
> >>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
> >>>Thanks guys for the input.
> >>>
> >>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
> >>>
> >>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
> >>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
> >>>
> >>>Very helpful,
> >>>
> >>>Jim G.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> >>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
> >>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
> >>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
> >>>
> >>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
> >>>advance.
> >>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
> >>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
> >>>with the webers to determine.
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >>http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu May 23 13:03:22 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:03:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
In-Reply-To: <C71DB683AECE4714AB735A6FC440ECA4@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <680215001.2218328.1369335802244.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks everybody for the great response to my "problem", not too much. 
Thanks for the inside info with Carbotech, John. 
Yes Joe, but the caliper would have to move outward. Tony suggested shimming the carrier. Not a bad idea. I'd like to get the thing centered up. 
The path of least resistance would be to shave the pads. Thanks Bill, for suggesting the respirator. It's nice to know someone cares. Maybe I'll just move my drill press outside. It's a beautiful breezy day here in Santa Cruz and I won't get my shop all dusty. I'll wear a respirator and hold my breath too. 
This group is my favorite by far, racers rule, 
Dave 

----- Original Message -----
From: "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> 
To: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>, "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net>, Fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:06:56 AM 
Subject: RE: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit 

We use Carbotech in my TR3A race car as well. Be sure and tell Mike 
(704-481-8554) they are for your TR3 so they won't make them too thick as 
used in some of the NASCAR applications. My part # is CTGD500-AX6. He has 
a record under my name as to the correct thickness..... 


John H. Hasty 
Attorney At Law 
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C. 
719 East Boulevard 
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113 
Tele: (704) 372-5600 
Fax: (704) 372-4601 
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com 
www.gdhs.com 

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message (and any attachments) is 
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that 
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT. 
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any 
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have 
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message 
and its attachments and notify us immediately. Thank you. 

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE: In order to comply with certain IRS regulations 
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise, 
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments) 
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of 
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, 
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter 
addressed herein. 
-----Original Message----- 
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of Tony Drews 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:38 PM 
To: davehogye; Fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit 

It's not uncommon to have to shim the caliper to center it up. For racing, 
I recommend Carbotech, AX6 compound (www.ctbrakes.com ). We didn't like the 
Hawke Blue's much - needed warmup or they locked easily, were hard on the 
rotors and left little bits of molten rotor stuck in the paint of the wheel. 

Cheers, Tony 

At 11:32 AM 5/23/2013, davehogye wrote: 
>Hello friends, 
>I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>over 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and 
>they've been squealing like crazy driving around town between stops 
>sometimes. I ordered a set of performance street pads from Moss and the 
>outside pad will not fit in the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is 
>not centered in the caliper, but the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I 
>hadn't noticed the offset until trying to fit other pads. I got another 
>set of street pads, thinking the Moss pads where fat and same problem. 
>I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>remanufactured, calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I 
>called BPN thinking the caliper might be the problem and they have had 
>no other calls on this. Perhaps the hub dimensions are off. I guess 
>I'll have to shave the outside pads to fit them, but has anyone else 
>come across this issue. I'll be measuring things and hopefully find out 
>what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" 
>will have to come off the pad. 
> 
> 
>Thanks, 
>Dave 
>_______________________________________________ 
>fot at autox.team.net 
> 
>http://www.fot-racing.com 
> 
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com 
_______________________________________________ 
fot at autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

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Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 23 14:15:26 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 15:15:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
In-Reply-To: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
References: <D15DD2FC-F3C1-459F-8691-66509D018B07@me.com><368095554.1913386.1369318762003.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><20130523143414.5CD584054E@autox.team.net><DE3754B72CC0459D82A4DE386280C3BC@hpd530><20130523160133.66B3E40543@autox.team.net>
	<82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202C0590@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <D7E518497F084219836921EA9BC3190D@rileyPC>

We recently put our ChumpCar Alfa 116 on a chassis dyno
and learned lots of neat stuff.   Like, we were at 13:1
and thought it was good.
We adjusted the fuel injection to 12.5 and picked up a few
horsepower until the ratio started to slowly lean out to
13.1: at 5k rpm.    This told us we had a fuel delivery
problem of some sort that we had not been aware of.  Also told
us there was some more hp on the table.
Our dyno operator was very helpful and knowledgeable.
Money and time VERY well spent.

art de armond
-----Original Message----- 
From: Barr, Scott
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:15 PM
To: 'Tony Drews' ; Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

Tony wrote:  << a bit richer than stoichiometric, ie 13:1. >>

And I said "...wait, what?".   13:1?   I have always heard that gasoline 
fuel
stoich point was 14.7.  A little research says Tony's right as usual.  I've
been reading my A/F meter at 14.5 or so and thinking that was a good thing.

Time to turn the adjusting nuts out a few flats and take a look at the
plugs...



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf
Of Tony Drews
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:58 AM
To: Bill Tobin
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages

I made best power when the car ran slightly "rich", a bit richer than
stoichiometric ie 13:1. I ended up with best power closer to 12.5:1.  So, 
some
of the high EGT is due to fuel still burning when the exhaust port opens.

The A/F meter was at the dyno, I don't have one in my car.  The leaded gas
kills the A/F pickup.  I bought a new one for the dyno session and we killed
it by the end of the testing.

Tony Drews

At 10:38 AM 5/23/2013, Bill Tobin wrote:
>Tony, what kind of A/F ratio setup do you use? And what ratio do you
>shoot for?
>Thanks, Bill
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>; "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:30 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again... the averages
>
>
>>By the way, my carb jetting was determined on an engine Dyno, and
>>included the use of an air/fuel ratio gauge.  So, I just noted the
>>EGT's produced at that time as "baseline".
>>
>>Tony Drews
>>
>>At 09:19 AM 5/23/2013, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>>>Thanks guys for the input.
>>>
>>>We see probes mounted anywhere from 1.75 " to 6" from the flange
>>>
>>>and EGT's from 1300 to 1400. So it's an average of 3.9" from the
>>>flange and 1362F for EGT's.
>>>
>>>Very helpful,
>>>
>>>Jim G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>
>>>From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>>>To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 6:42:37 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] EGT's again
>>>
>>>2" from the head. B  1300 degrees on the GT6 at 7000 RPM, 32 degrees
>>>advance.
>>>Tailpipe is tan/grey, leaded 110, forged Venolia pistons, 12:1
>>>compression I suspect I could lean it out a bit - need some dyne time
>>>with the webers to determine.
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Thu May 23 16:23:10 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:23:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit
References: <869313408.2212219.1369326726574.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<D66C37DB-D14C-40CF-81DB-4E6787910EC8@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <E60200EE10E74B699E873C814AA87460@hpd530>

Bill, I use a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck to true mine. However if 
you don't happen to have a surface grinder...........
That drill press trick works well.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: <Fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Brake pads don't fit


> Sure, it's a common problem with aftermarket calipers. You can shim the
> calipers to center them, or shave the pads. Easiest way to shave pads it 
> to
> put a flat metal plate on a drill press and chuck a cup grinding wheel in 
> the
> drill. Slide the pad around under the cup to remove layers. wear a 
> respirator.
>
> Mr. Kastner told me about this many years ago as a way to eliminate taper 
> from
> a worn or glazed disk. Works great.
> On May 23, 2013, at 9:32 AM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello friends,
>> I've been driving my TR3 on the street with Hawk blue pads and have put 
>> over
> 500 miles on them now. They make a mess of dust all over and they've been
> squealing like crazy driving around town between stops sometimes. I 
> ordered a
> set of performance street pads from Moss and the outside pad will not fit 
> in
> the caliper. It's obvious that the rotor is not centered in the caliper, 
> but
> the Hawk pads went in no problem, so I hadn't noticed the offset until 
> trying
> to fit other pads. I got another set of street pads, thinking the Moss 
> pads
> where fat and same problem.
>> I have TR3 uprights, TR4A-TR6 caliper carriers and new, not 
>> remanufactured,
> calipers from BPNorthwest and new aluminum hubs. I called BPN thinking the
> caliper might be the problem and they have had no other calls on this. 
> Perhaps
> the hub dimensions are off. I guess I'll have to shave the outside pads to 
> fit
> them, but has anyone else come across this issue. I'll be measuring things 
> and
> hopefully find out what's going on, but it looks like at least .050" will 
> have
> to come off the pad.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 24 08:48:09 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:48:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
Message-ID: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>

Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.

PayPal paid decals going out today.

Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.

We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.

Joe A



Sent from my iPad


From apackard68 at att.net  Fri May 24 10:26:17 2013
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andy Packard)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:26:17 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
Message-ID: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>

I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?

Andy Packard
Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>
> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>
> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>
> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>
> Joe A
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri May 24 10:38:15 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 11:38:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
Message-ID: <CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>

They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
again.

The logo has become a sign of distinction.

Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
volunteering.

Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.

I don't remember who did it last.

You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for them
out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money back.

Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net


From jaxonracing at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 12:30:17 2013
From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (Jaxon Racing)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 14:30:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
Message-ID: <837C0076-62A8-4F0C-9461-3BB1E3517112@yahoo.com>

I would like one for my drivers suit

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 12:26 PM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
> interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com


From horizonracing at msn.com  Wed May 22 19:21:54 2013
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:21:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
In-Reply-To: <512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
References: <001301ce5625$41a7d5a0$c4f780e0$@rr.com>,
	<512170910.1165290.1369256751291.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-W944138572C5CA71446265B2AA0@phx.gbl>

The folks that Run High plains Raceway are GREAT (fun) ! I went a couple of
years ago for  Formula B get together. Track is tricky/busy and a couple of
really quick (pull up ya big boy panty's) type corners.
Yes, The good hotels are 50 ? freeway miles away, but not really big deal.


> Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 17:05:51 -0400
> From: cofrog at q.com
> To: joeg at neb.rr.com
> CC: klynch_6 at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net; edenma at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] RMVR at HPR
>
> Thanks to you for working a corner and to all the workers who enabled us to
run the long course.  I'm glad you enjoyed the weekend.  I hope to see you and
Terry Davis at Hastings.
>
> All who run High Plains give it high marks.  I hope that folks decide to
take a tow out here and check it out.  It would be an outstanding track for a
Kastner Cup except for it's relative remoteness for those who stay in Motels.
>
> I don't know if it's me but I'm unable to get any results on My Laps since
they supposedly they "improved" the site.  If anyone knows anything about
what's up with My Laps please share.  Due to Jim Gray having mechanical issues
I was able to take D Production in the four races I ran with Jim Roelofs in
lurking mode in his TR4.
>
> Dan Forgey
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cofrog at q.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From my71spit13 at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 14:21:49 2013
From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 13:21:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Patches and KCup roommates
Message-ID: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I would be interested in FoT patches. Also, are there tshirts available?
 
On
another note, would anyone have an extra room at the Osthoff that my wife and
I could split costs with at the KCup. We had not reserved a room and it may be
too late to get the room we wanted, since we are over the amount of reserved
rooms. Cost affective would be to split a room. Let me know. Thanks
 
Shawn
Frank
515-339-4228


From wgaplin at bellsouth.net  Fri May 24 16:04:30 2013
From: wgaplin at bellsouth.net (Warren Aplin)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 18:04:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
	<CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
Message-ID: <002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>

I would like both a  couple of patches and a few stickers.  I am unable to
make Road America, but would gladly preorder and send a check

Warren Aplin
Jupiter, FL
561-748-8187

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:38 PM
To: Andy Packard
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!

They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
again.

The logo has become a sign of distinction.

Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
volunteering.

Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.

I don't remember who did it last.

You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for
them out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money
back.

Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:

> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
interested in these or have they been done already?
>
> Andy Packard
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>
>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>
>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>
>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>
>> Joe A
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wgaplin at bellsouth.net


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 24 16:10:56 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 18:10:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] shirts
In-Reply-To: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>

We did a run of the regular FOT shirts last year and had a difficult time
making the minimum order so another run already is not in the cards. That
being said there are some places on line that you can have as little as one
shirt printed up using your supplied design. Maybe I can look into something
like that when I have nothing to do if there is any interest.

Marty

 Also, are there tshirts available?


From rwestfall at ymail.com  Fri May 24 16:44:08 2013
From: rwestfall at ymail.com (Russell Westfall)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 15:44:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals. 100 produced
In-Reply-To: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1369435448.35931.YahooMailMobile@web161806.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Joe
I will take two decals, I will put a check in the mail to you tomorrow.
Thanks!
Russ Westfall


From fasttr4 at aol.com  Fri May 24 17:20:20 2013
From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:20:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals.  100 produced
In-Reply-To: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
References: <85B3DEA9-6318-41B0-87BD-611AD010DAFA@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8D026EC648031D8-1D3C-191CD@webmail-d277.sysops.aol.com>

Save me 2 decals.  Check is in the mail.

Bruce Lapierre X-#46



-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 22, 2013 9:11 pm
Subject: [Fot] Fot Decals. 100 produced


I ordered and received 100 FOT decals today.
$10 will get you two delivered to your address.
Checks preferred, but PayPal is convenient.
FOT
45 1st Street
esup, IA.  50648
PayPal.  N197tr4 at cs.com
Thanks
Sent from my iPad
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttr4 at aol.com


From bownes at seiri.com  Fri May 24 17:33:29 2013
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:33:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
In-Reply-To: <002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>
References: <F9CC0DC2-28C6-4388-AA65-2FEBC9DC7D90@cs.com>
	<65BB7DED-B7ED-45AE-B5EA-5674DEFAEA6B@att.net>
	<CBA3788C-D87D-4939-BAC8-944DF0691E02@cs.com>
	<002601ce58ca$ab4580a0$01d081e0$@bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <89C60843-9006-48AF-A227-7A041FF6A813@seiri.com>

Next time there is a run of the Very Large decals, I would like a set of 2
please!


On May 24, 2013, at 18:04, "Warren Aplin" <wgaplin at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> I would like both a  couple of patches and a few stickers.  I am unable to
> make Road America, but would gladly preorder and send a check
>
> Warren Aplin
> Jupiter, FL
> 561-748-8187
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:38 PM
> To: Andy Packard
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT decals. Thanks!
>
> They have been done in the past and I suspect they would go over very well,
> again.
>
> The logo has become a sign of distinction.
>
> Fortunately, we have great TR folks stepping up to the plate and
> volunteering.
>
> Timing on this is very good.  We will look very good at Road America.
>
> I don't remember who did it last.
>
> You might get preorders and order a few more in addition. We can pay for
> them out the FOT FUND.  We could sell some at the track to get the money
> back.
>
> Regalia is good, but a lot of work.  Thanks Andy.  Your call on proceeding.
>
> Joe A
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Andy Packard <apackard68 at att.net> wrote:
>
>> I looked into having patches made with the FOT logo. Would people be
> interested in these or have they been done already?
>>
>> Andy Packard
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 24, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Nine responded with orders for 24 decals.
>>>
>>> PayPal paid decals going out today.
>>>
>>> Addresses from those sending checks would get those out.
>>>
>>> We have 76 left, so they are now available for awhile.
>>>
>>> Joe A
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/apackard68 at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wgaplin at bellsouth.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From jaxonracing at yahoo.com  Fri May 24 17:33:53 2013
From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (Jaxon Racing)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:33:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] shirts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>
References: <1369426909.28486.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BLU168-W423B4164CF53D105CA8785BAAB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A6479BB9-E533-4DCE-B16E-64F164F73343@yahoo.com>

We do shirt orders for hockey using transfers and once they are done you can
order just one or more if you like so there is no need for a minimum.



Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 6:10 PM, marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com> wrote:

> We did a run of the regular FOT shirts last year and had a difficult time
> making the minimum order so another run already is not in the cards. That
> being said there are some places on line that you can have as little as one
> shirt printed up using your supplied design. Maybe I can look into
something
> like that when I have nothing to do if there is any interest.
>
> Marty
>
> Also, are there tshirts available?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com


From chasgee at aol.com  Fri May 24 17:47:06 2013
From: chasgee at aol.com (Chuck Gee)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:47:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Paddock Info For Kastner Cup #2
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoG6PdpwFt8e7hvJ+9OarJ+vC5DQnFpyXiF5=aCOKfabg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYoG6PdpwFt8e7hvJ+9OarJ+vC5DQnFpyXiF5=aCOKfabg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8D026F021C3CD40-95C-142ED@webmail-d132.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Jason,

I sent my check for two spots today.  You should get it early next week.

Thanks,

Chuck Gee



-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 29, 2013 2:52 pm
Subject: [Fot] Paddock Info For Kastner Cup #2


This is the 2nd instalment of Paddock Info for the Kastner Cup.
ATTENTION ALL KASTNER CUP PARTICIPANTS:
Notes on status of Garage rentals:
Many of you have reserved garage spaces in the open air Lester Buildings.
his will be Triumph headquarters for various aspects of The Kastner Cup.
If you have reserved a space. THANK YOU!
t this point there are only a few garage spots left, call it fair warning!
If you have reserved a garage spot and HAVE SENT me a payment already...
HANK YOU for being early to the grid.
If you have reserved a garage spot and have NOT SENT payment yet...
econd call!
lease send $50.00 per spot payable to:
onderland Multivintage
731 Grand Blvd
rookfield IL 60513
(Notice to all garage renters>>> Do not be alarmed if you have not heard
rom me yet or gotten any official confirmation. Official confirmation in
egards to garage space has not yet been given. So, Again, If you paid
lready, thanks...look for a personal email in the coming days in regard
o your official confirmation.)
Notes on General Paddock Arrangement:
Negotiations and initial planning for the ALL TRIUMPH PADDOCK is going well.
t is a rare thing to have any special paddock arrangements made at Road
merica. Thanks to some dedicated FoTer's voices and persistent contact
ith the Race-Chairmen and RA officials, so far it looks like Triumph
ompetitors will be given five star treatment. To Be Clear.... WE are the
EATURE!
To facilitate accurate planning of open space in the ALL TRIUMPH PADDOCK I
ave asked ALL TRIUMPH COMPETITORS to send me the dimensions of
heir paddock space needs. (dimensions of rig, canopies, tent, RV)
f you have not contacted me with this info please do so now. Email
ason at multivintage.com  with the requested info.
Opinions and Feedback and important paddock concepts thus far:
) The Lester building / garages will work great for car prep/show for the
ntire weekend.
) The garages are not secure or private (keep that in mind)
) Your rig and trailer or RV etc. will NOT be right next to you garage
pot and may be a short walk from your spot. I will try to get you as close
s I can. but understand that your paddock spot (for your tow rig and
railer) will not be at an arms length from your garage spot. (please be
dvised and plan accordingly)
) Tech will happen in our Triumph Paddock area.
) RV hookup power is not technically available in our designated area.
) If you want power, rent a garage spot.(period)
) If you want power at you RV / rig / paddock spot plan on paying lots of
oney to get it or BRING a GENERATOR.
) I have been asked "Can I run a cord from my garage spot to my Rig and
ent or RV? Answer: don't count on it.
) If You must have RV power because of any personal/ medical issues...
ontact me immediately! Jason @ (312)208-5227
0) If you need anything special, now is the time to ask for it! Contact
ason @ (312)208-5227
1) If you know anyone that is not on the FOT list or that does not keep up
ith our emails; Please forward this info to them and urge them to contact
e with any concerns and the requested details.
2)  If I have forgotten anything or not mentioned something that you would
ike to see as part of the paddock experience for this event, I AM HERE FOR
OU to see what we can do! call Jason @ (312)208-5227 or email
ason at multivintage.com
3) This is going to be totally awesome. The 2013 Kastner Cup at Road
merica is shaping up to be the greatest Triumph Race in the history of
otorsport.
 Thanks!
ason Ostrowski
riendly Ghost Racing
laning Committee/Paddock Master
013 Kastner Cup at Road America
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 24 19:04:42 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:04:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
Message-ID: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>

I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the 
principles involved
are not marque specific.

mjb.



You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose 
carbs.
Fixed that, still having trouble.

So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a 
while for odds
and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker, 
smart kid.  I've
been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor 
disagreement
today.

So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm 
over mouth
of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm 
over the rear
carb, engine stumbles and dies.

I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri May 24 19:38:37 2013
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 20:38:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <000b01ce58e8$953b1fe0$bfb15fa0$@com>

I think the rear carb is feeding all 4 cylinders and the front carb isn't
getting any gas and acting like a big vacuum leak.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:05 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?

I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the 
principles involved
are not marque specific.

mjb.



You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose 
carbs.
Fixed that, still having trouble.

So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a 
while for odds
and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker, 
smart kid.  I've
been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor 
disagreement
today.

So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm 
over mouth
of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm 
over the rear
carb, engine stumbles and dies.

I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May 25 07:40:36 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 08:40:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"
Message-ID: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>

Heard from Steve Hedke this week. You may remember him as entering his TR3 in
the Great Race a few years ago. I think he won his division once.

Great Race starts near St. Paul in June. Might be a fun place to be.

He will be doing the Great Race this year in a 1916 Hudson Indy Car.

Still a TR3 guy, I invited him to return to our list.

I hope he does.


From tlizzard at msn.com  Sat May 25 07:56:06 2013
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 09:56:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>

Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.

Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
  To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
  Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?


  I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
  principles involved
  are not marque specific.

  mjb.



  You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
  carbs.
  Fixed that, still having trouble.

  So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
  while for odds
  and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
  smart kid.  I've
  been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
  disagreement
  today.

  So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
  over mouth
  of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
  over the rear
  carb, engine stumbles and dies.

  I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May 25 09:58:14 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 10:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Regalia Update. Decals. Kastner Cup. 2013. Road America
Message-ID: <D02080DE-6FB1-45DA-BC43-ED64EBB8186E@cs.com>

More than half of the 100 decals are spoken for...way to go!

I am addressing envelopes again today. If you are sending a check, please give
me your address so I can get these out and done with.

Looks like Andy Packard is going to make an offering of patches. It's overdue
and he has a good source. Remember, if you don't have a driver's suit, you can
put on a jacket or hat.

The next time I am in Signs By Tomorrow, I check into pricing on the larger
FOT decals and report back.

Flags, badges, decals, patches all going to KCUP 2013.
Our own garage facilities, event shirts, event posters.
Marque awards by Snook's Dream Cars.
And custom name tags......

No featured marque will ever look as good as we are at ELVF

And there is more....we are going have custom made Tech Stickers.

Also, VSCDA has a traditional "Rally Board" decal. We made arrangements for
the FOT logo to appear on this very collectible driver premium. They will also
be available for sale.


Thanks to all who have supported this effort.


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat May 25 17:56:29 2013
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 19:56:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>

Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the base
is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If they
are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.

I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get any
throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly throttle
the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?) were
bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix at
the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.

Chris

On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:

> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>
> Terry Stetler
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>  To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>  Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>
>
>  I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>  principles involved
>  are not marque specific.
>
>  mjb.
>
>
>
>  You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>  carbs.
>  Fixed that, still having trouble.
>
>  So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>  while for odds
>  and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>  smart kid.  I've
>  been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>  disagreement
>  today.
>
>  So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>  over mouth
>  of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>  over the rear
>  carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>
>  I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>  _______________________________________________
>  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>
>  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat May 25 19:58:35 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 20:58:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>

No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run with
the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I imagine
those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.

Duncan
1952 Morgan Plus 4
Red #6

On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:

> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
base
> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If they
> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>
> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get
any
> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
throttle
> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?) were
> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
at
> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.
>
> Chris
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>
>> Terry Stetler
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>
>>
>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>> principles involved
>> are not marque specific.
>>
>> mjb.
>>
>>
>>
>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>> carbs.
>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>
>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>> while for odds
>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>> smart kid.  I've
>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>> disagreement
>> today.
>>
>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>> over mouth
>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>> over the rear
>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>
>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat May 25 20:25:57 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 22:25:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw: Old Box Making Machinery
Message-ID: <B935C8378AEC4D97963CC604061C46FE@hpd530>

Hi Gang, this is not Old British Car related, but it came from the SOB's. 
Sons of Britain, our local car club. Like the FOT, no dues, no officers, but 
a good bunch of folks who have old British cars. They meet for dinner once a 
month, go on drives, and generally have fun. And have a summer picnic at my 
farm. Also a car show in Mid-September at the park in Waterford PA.
This video is very interseting. And very cool.
Enjoy, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rinderlessh at roadrunner.com>
To: "Akard" <makard at act-inc.com>; "Addington" <ohioadds at thewavz.com>; 
"Acklin" <rodney.acklin at ge.com>; "Aubele" <gaubele at verizon.net>; "Auton" 
<autons2 at yahoo.com.au>; "Buto" <butot at bellsouth.net>; "Barefield" 
<mikebarefield at charter.net>; "Carroll" <mikeandlinda806 at gmail.com>; "Chew" 
<ralph.chew at yahoo.com>; "Colvin" <twogaitln at frontier.com>; "Darnell" 
<maggied1102 at yahoo.com>; "Delevan" <r_delevan at msn.com>; "Dillard" 
<clay.dillard at hotmail.com>; "Fechter" <nfechter at sbcglobal.net>; "Ford" 
<manley776 at yahoo.com>; "Frazier" <jpfrazier at embarqmail.com>; "Frew" 
<dfrew at mercyhurst.edu>; "Funk" <jfunk at wabtec.com>; "Gallagher" 
<aalice4 at verizon.net>; "Group" <fairviewgroups at juno.com>; "Haas" 
<emsh at juno.com>; "Hall" <joshua.hall at colorado.edu>; "Hall" 
<pappy.hall at juno.com>; "Hall" <dhall04 at comcast.net>; "Hall" 
<hallla2_2000 at yahoo.com>; "Hanning" <hanningr at gmail.com>; "Henderson" 
<suehardin at att.net>; "Jenkins" <rjenkins49 at comcast.net>; "Johnson" 
<gtjson at ptd.net>; "Kallenbach" <thelakers at toast.net>; "Jordan" 
<mirajcorp at aol.com>; "Kanzler" <dkanzler at hotmail.com>; "Karle" 
<jandkarle at msn.com>; "Karle" <jbkarle at yahoo.com>; "Klauss" 
<wklauss at atlanticbb.net>; "Kling" <paul.kling at morganplc.com>; "Konstanty" 
<walter.konstanty at ge.com>; "Krack" <krak8774 at aol.com>; "Lee" 
<rthomaslee at aol.com>; "Lipski" <jermar46375 at comcast.net>; "Lozowski" 
<gary.lozowski at morganplc.com>; "Majoc" <cmajoc at mercyhurst.edu>; "Muller" 
<robertemuller at charter.net>; "Nowicki" <henry_nowicki at windstream.net>; 
"Oberlander" <kaotwins at verizon.net>; "Parry" <jparry66 at att.net>; "Orton" 
<itsdottyo at aol.com>; "Payne" <linda_payne1 at verizon.net>; "Penna" 
<jlh5 at netzero.com>; "Povlick" <povlicks at truvista.net>; "Predmore" 
<dpredmore at epix.net>; "Quinn" <quinns9 at verizon.net>; "Quinn" 
<stquinn537 at comcast.net>; "Randolph" <allen.randolph at ge.com>; "Ranta" 
<l.ranta at comcast.net>; "Roberge" <roly.roberge at morganplc.com>; "Romanski" 
<j.e.romanski at gmail.com>; "Roth" <rcv at psu.edu>; "Russo" <ratsrusso at cox.net>; 
"Saunders" <rses32 at aol.com>; "Schuerman" <jeanschuer at gmail.com>; "Sholes" 
<dsholes at gpwlaw.com>; "Stewart" <stewartmw at aol.com>; "Straub" 
<jeeper312 at verizon.net>; "Straub" <francis.straub at gmail.com>; "Tabolt" 
<rtskier at verizon.net>; "Tallyen" <russ.tallyen at morganplc.com>; "Tessendorf" 
<tessenri at cox.net>; "Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>; "Vasko" 
<galena130 at yahoo.com>; "Welsbacher" <JMaudio729 at wmconnect.com>; "Wineland" 
<marywineland at zoominternet.net>; "Winnen" <jimwinnen at roadrunner.com>; 
"Yeaney" <peter.yeaney at gmail.com>; "Yeaney" <carl.f.yeaney at gmail.com>; 
<nick.watters at morganplc.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 8:41 PM
Subject: Old Box Making Machinery


> Hi,
>
> This came to me from Frank Russell, my first engineering manager when I 
> started out.
>
> Working with this kind of equipment was not for sissies!
>
> Rich Hall
>
>
>
> "This is the real deal as far as old machinery is concerned. You'll like 
> it. OSHA would have a fit.
>
> Frank"
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/v/_mKSKZau9qs#


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sat May 25 21:48:55 2013
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 23:48:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
	<C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>

I did put oil in the pots but it still did the same thing.  He had the idle
set at 1200 so it wouldn't idle high. I finally set it at 1600 as a balance of
low idle and working.  It was a racing engine that wanted a 1800 idle to start
with.

Chris

On May 25, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
> think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run
with
> the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I
imagine
> those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.
>
> Duncan
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4
> Red #6
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:
>
>> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
> base
>> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If
they
>> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
>> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>>
>> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't get
> any
>> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
> throttle
>> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?)
were
>> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
> at
>> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the bouncing.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>>
>>> Terry Stetler
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>>
>>>
>>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>>> principles involved
>>> are not marque specific.
>>>
>>> mjb.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>>> carbs.
>>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>>
>>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>>> while for odds
>>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>>> smart kid.  I've
>>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>>> disagreement
>>> today.
>>>
>>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>>> over mouth
>>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>>> over the rear
>>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>>
>>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sun May 26 06:15:00 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 07:15:00 -0500
Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
In-Reply-To: <DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>
References: <51A00E2A.4030001@bradakis.com>
	<BAY164-DS20A94AB2EB1F88518287BAC3940@phx.gbl>
	<D0E797DF-9956-4D47-A69D-9DBDA9926A1B@aol.com>
	<C2ECFDC3-888F-41F3-BFF2-5747D2D0F123@gmail.com>
	<DD6939D4-1E9B-484A-9D8B-2B968901BAFE@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6D70ADF0-7346-4440-8596-08E1031A5046@gmail.com>

I discovered another good reason for a high idle speed when my accelerator
cable broke -- I was able to get back to the pits a lot faster!

Duncan


On May 25, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:

> I did put oil in the pots but it still did the same thing.  He had the idle
set at 1200 so it wouldn't idle high. I finally set it at 1600 as a balance of
low idle and working.  It was a racing engine that wanted a 1800 idle to start
with.
>
> Chris
>
> On May 25, 2013, at 9:58 PM, Duncan Charlton <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> No oil in the dashpots of your friend's non-idling car, I assume.  I would
>> think that would damp out the oscillations adequately.  I know some run
with
>> the dashpots dry and/or the pistons removed from the damper rods but I
imagine
>> those individuals are not after a slow idle speed.
>>
>> Duncan
>> 1952 Morgan Plus 4
>> Red #6
>>
>> On May 25, 2013, at 6:56 PM, Christopher Bock wrote:
>>
>>> Look into the throat and see what the gap between the dash pot(?) and the
>> base
>>> is while running between both carbs. They should be close to even.  If
they
>>> are then check to see if there is any fuel coming to the jet in the front
>>> carb. To me it seems that the front carb isn't working.
>>>
>>> I had fixed a friends dual carb where after idling a while he couldn't
get
>> any
>>> throttle at all.  He had to shut the car off, restart, then quickly
>> throttle
>>> the car.  Basically he had the idle speed too low and the dash pots(?)
were
>>> bouncing up and down so bad that giving throttle did nothing.   Quick fix
>> at
>>> the start line was to stick my finger in the throat and stop the
bouncing.
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> On May 25, 2013, at 9:56 AM, "Terry Stetler" <tlizzard at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Old age and treachery beat youth and inexperience every time.
>>>>
>>>> Terry Stetler
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: Mark J Bradakis<mailto:mark at bradakis.com>
>>>> To: FOT<mailto:fot at Autox.Team.Net>
>>>> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:04 PM
>>>> Subject: [Fot] What do YOU think?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I posted this on the Spridgets list.  Not Triumph related, but the
>>>> principles involved
>>>> are not marque specific.
>>>>
>>>> mjb.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose
>>>> carbs.
>>>> Fixed that, still having trouble.
>>>>
>>>> So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a
>>>> while for odds
>>>> and ends.   Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker,
>>>> smart kid.  I've
>>>> been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive.  We had a minor
>>>> disagreement
>>>> today.
>>>>
>>>> So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs.  Put your palm
>>>> over mouth
>>>> of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out.  Put your palm
>>>> over the rear
>>>> carb, engine stumbles and dies.
>>>>
>>>> I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think?
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
>>>> net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sun May 26 21:17:13 2013
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 03:17:13 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Message-ID: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>

Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it on,
you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on the
trailer now compared to before?

Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder?   May be
worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with
clutch disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem
could be that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but
I installed a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch
installation - and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel
spin or clutch slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can
restrict the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch
release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push
the slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when
I start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta
work on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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____________________________________________________________
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Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Mon May 27 05:19:29 2013
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 04:19:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <1369653569.22942.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web160904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

What size hose?  A size 3 or size 4?   

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android


From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 27 08:48:43 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 07:48:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>

Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed
from the firewall forward?

thanks for any response and sage advice.


From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon May 27 08:59:28 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 10:59:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A374D0.3080202@charter.net>

Yes,Yes

They are welded on.
Measure before you remove.
Remove the front fenders, get your center punch and drill ready, find 
the spot welds and proceed.
Assembly is the reverse of removal with a mig welder.

Your will also need to remove the inner front fenders.
I have new replacements if needed.

Glenn

On 5/27/2013 10:48 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
> Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
> they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed
> from the firewall forward?
>
> thanks for any response and sage advice.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon May 27 09:27:32 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:27:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNC1SxUFzk0NYZUfx9bKmN0DTVMms9w6deobyuJMy7OcJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001b01ce5aee$b5562100$20026300$@rr.com>

With a plasma cutter everything is removable, however those are factory
welded to the bulkhead. If you're replacing a damaged front clip use either
a saws-all or a plasma cutter and you can free that section easily. Using a
MiG welder will make short work of the repair.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 10:49 AM
To: TR list; Triumph; Friends
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6

Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are they
bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be removed from the
firewall forward?

thanks for any response and sage advice.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon May 27 10:21:13 2013
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 11:21:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Removal of inner fender arch from body tub TR6
Message-ID: <13322.1369671673@mitchelplumbing.com>

	 BODY { font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12px; }
 Chuck, the front 'clip' is welded on at the firewall and it includes
the inner fenders and the headlight/hood support portion of the front
end.

	I did change one once and drilled out all the spot welds and welded a
whole new one on.

	Charly Mitchel
	On Mon 27/05/13  7:48 AM , "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley"
triosan at gmail.com sent:
 Are the inner front fender arches removable from the body tub --are
 they bolted or are they welded on?  Can the front of the tub be
removed
 from the firewall forward?
 thanks for any response and sage advice.
 _______________________________________________
 http://www.fot-racing.com [2]
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [3]
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4]
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [5]
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ [6]


Links:
------
[2]
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.com
[3]
http://webmail.qwestoffice.net/parse.php?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2
Fdonate.html
[4]
http://webmail.qwestoffice.net/parse.php?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2
Farchive
[5]
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Fforums
[6]
http://webmail.qwestoffice.net/parse.php?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net
%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Ffot%2Fcharly%40mitchelplumbing.com


From mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com  Mon May 27 11:59:52 2013
From: mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com (Mike Jankowski)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 12:59:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys
Message-ID: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have a set of factory alloys in good condition from a TR7/8
they are looking to offload?
Thanks!
Mike


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 27 12:52:12 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:52:12 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>

You guys doing really complicated stuff.
I use stock stuff and it is doing well.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Joe Boruch
Gesendet: Montag, 27. Mai 2013 05:17
An: lang at isis.mit.edu
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited

Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it on,
you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on
the trailer now compared to before?

Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder?   May
be
worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)

Hi,

I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with clutch
disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem could be
that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but I installed
a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch installation -
and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel spin or clutch
slippage when I floor it.

The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can restrict
the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch release?

I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push the
slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.

This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
launches, max.

BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when I
start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta work
on that aspect of my driving, I guess.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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____________________________________________________________
Transformation of America?
Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 15:10:40 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:10:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
Message-ID: <39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>

Me too, Chris. Stock MC, slave,and braided hose. -4 I think. And a Magic 
clutch from TRF.
KISS.
Only time I had a problem was when a rebuilt slave cyl. failed on the grid. 
Got it running on the starter and did the practice session without the 
clutch.
To all Vets out there: thank you. Lots of flags in the cemetaries.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited


> You guys doing really complicated stuff.
> I use stock stuff and it is doing well.
>
> Chris
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Joe Boruch
> Gesendet: Montag, 27. Mai 2013 05:17
> An: lang at isis.mit.edu
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
>
> Bob, how are you getting the car on the trailer?  If you are driving it 
> on,
> you may be wearing out the clutch?  Doing anything different with going on
> the trailer now compared to before?
>
> Do you have an AN hose all the way from the MC to the slave cylinder? 
> May
> be
> worth changing it, in case it has a kink or debris restricting it?  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
> Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:03:50 -0400 (EDT)
>
> Hi,
>
> I scanned the FOT archives quickly and maybe I missed seeing anything
> definitive on the subject. My "issue" is that since I switched from the
> stock TR6 clutch M/C to a Tilton unit, I've been having problems with 
> clutch
> disk / flywheel glazing (and subsequent slippage). Now, the problem could 
> be
> that I'm leaving my clutch foot resting on the clutch pedal, but I 
> installed
> a dead pedal a while back - perhaps before the latest clutch 
> installation -
> and in my videos, you can def hear what is either wheel spin or clutch
> slippage when I floor it.
>
> The Tilton clutch M/C that was installed has AN3 fittings and the stock
> setup is AN4. Is there any chance that the smaller hose / pipe can 
> restrict
> the hydraulic motion in a way that can effect rapid clutch release?
>
> I'm next to positive that there's nothing stupid going on here, like a
> residual pressure valve or something like that. I'm 99% sure I can push 
> the
> slave's pushrod and cause fluid to back-flow into the M/C reservior.
>
> This is really annoying because the original clutch setup (a 69 M/C with a
> used B&B PP and all "stock" stuff) lasted for 6 or 7 seasons and the new
> setup(s) only seem to last 1/2 season or so. That's like 50 autocross
> launches, max.
>
> BTW, the dead pedal is so awesome that I forget to push the clutch in when 
> I
> start spinning. This has led to some pretty impressive 180's!!! Gotta work
> on that aspect of my driving, I guess.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Transformation of America?
> Stocks soar--but some wealthy citizens are preparing for huge changes
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/51a2d06d58ee506c41bdst02duc
> _______________________________________________
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon May 27 15:54:14 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 23:54:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
	<39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
Message-ID: <000301ce5b24$bb87ea00$3297be00$@com>

I didn't like to do a bad critic. I just was astounded about the technical
things you implant in your cars.

At my car the idea counts to keep it stock like so that I can get parts to
repair in the paddock.
If you show up at the paddock with something custom made and nobody has a
spare you can go home - end of the weekend.

My car can race with almost all stock parts.

In one case we parted out a TR3 from a fan to get a cylinder head and a diff
for a fellow racer.
No chance with custom parts.

To tell you what I use:

Stock master
Stock slave
Stock link
GT6 clutch bearing
Tilton pressure plate
And 6 paddle clutch plate

So the only thing I have to bring is a pressure plate spare and a clutch
plate spare.
All other parts are available at the paddock.

Cheers
Chris


From kkjjk at aol.com  Mon May 27 16:43:13 2013
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 18:43:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys
In-Reply-To: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAD0VeVs3RRDC9Vg9O+yxLKr=Ve90PWYb=E7=pt8tTPONT8b3gw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8D02942B4A78AA6-18E4-275FF@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com>

Hey, Mike- I do have a set, actually two sets!  I have no idea what they are
worth.  I would need to check on them as they are buried somewhere in my
garage.  I do know that one set is painted green and that they belong to a
good friend of mine.  The other set I took off a TR7 MANY years ago, but they
are factory 8 wheels ( I bought the entire car just for the wheels, and then
junked the car- big mistake).  I will try to look into it for you, although I
have a grad party and a lot of stuff coming up over the next 2-3 weeks.  How
much of a hurry are you in?  Thanks-- Jay



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jankowski <mikeragtopeditor at gmail.com>
To: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 27, 2013 2:05 pm
Subject: [Fot] TR7/8 Factory alloys


Does anyone have a set of factory alloys in good condition from a TR7/8
they are looking to offload?
Thanks!
Mike
_______________________________________________
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 18:40:58 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:40:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
	<000301ce5b0b$4f0ddec0$ed299c40$@com>
	<39BBA1EEE4234451A5A3BCD7B9E1E782@hpd530>
	<000301ce5b24$bb87ea00$3297be00$@com>
Message-ID: <93329F51DCCC4DE8B5B7294927E16C51@hpd530>

Like I said Chris, KISS
(Keep it simple, son)
Cheers, Bill----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited


>I didn't like to do a bad critic. I just was astounded about the technical
> things you implant in your cars.
>
> At my car the idea counts to keep it stock like so that I can get parts to
> repair in the paddock.
> If you show up at the paddock with something custom made and nobody has a
> spare you can go home - end of the weekend.
>
> My car can race with almost all stock parts.
>
> In one case we parted out a TR3 from a fan to get a cylinder head and a 
> diff
> for a fellow racer.
> No chance with custom parts.
>
> To tell you what I use:
>
> Stock master
> Stock slave
> Stock link
> GT6 clutch bearing
> Tilton pressure plate
> And 6 paddle clutch plate
>
> So the only thing I have to bring is a pressure plate spare and a clutch
> plate spare.
> All other parts are available at the paddock.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon May 27 18:46:19 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:46:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Whitworth wrenches
Message-ID: <F57471DD6E3441CD81E77034784E4972@hpd530>

Hi All, someone inquired a while ago about my  Whitworth wrenches.
I finally found them, right where I left them. 'Cept I'd forgotten where I
left them!
Most are Blue Point, Snap-on's brand. A few King Dick. Some box, some open.
If any interest, let me know and I'll send you a list.
Thanks, Bill


From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 27 22:38:02 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 21:38:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Need a front clip for my TR6
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNB7qAobCwZsNRVLLtm-GNik83YD+gnoRJ5RXmc6sO2XdA@mail.gmail.com>

Somew eekends ar really good [like two weeks ago when Iset my personal best
by half a second at PAcific Raceways].  some are pretty lousy, like when I
hit the front straight wall at Mission in Canada attempting a pass in the
rain.  Now a need a front clip [everything forward of the fr
irewall].  suspension and frame are ok.  See link below for damage pictures.

https://plus.google.com/photos/103241823961257430252/albums/5882875292021172593?authkey=CIXV_rCP84PJAQ

Chuck in Tacoma, WA


From wgaplin at bellsouth.net  Tue May 28 07:27:10 2013
From: wgaplin at bellsouth.net (Warren Aplin)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:27:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"
In-Reply-To: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>
References: <DFDE3A2A-C10D-419A-8668-E7FC687CE5CC@cs.com>
Message-ID: <001f01ce5ba7$0f4f62d0$2dee2870$@net>

That is on my bucket list.  Never thought about doing it in the TR,  That
might be fun.

Warren Aplin
Jupiter, FL
561-748-8187


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2013 9:41 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Steve Hedke. TR3. "Scrappy"

Heard from Steve Hedke this week. You may remember him as entering his TR3
in the Great Race a few years ago. I think he won his division once.

Great Race starts near St. Paul in June. Might be a fun place to be.

He will be doing the Great Race this year in a 1916 Hudson Indy Car.

Still a TR3 guy, I invited him to return to our list.

I hope he does.
_______________________________________________
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From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 28 10:38:57 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 09:38:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 28 10:40:49 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:40:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch Hydraulics Revisited
In-Reply-To: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
References: <20130526.231713.29098.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305281230470.2628@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,


Regarding loading the car - I don't think that's an issue, although it 
might be. I have given thought to setting up a winch in the trailer.. I 
also need to consider this aspect of getting onto the lift in the garage. 
That's a really big "hill". Maybe I need a winch there too.

But, it could also be the driver riding the clutch - I'm not sure.

As regards to keeping things simple, I agree whole-heartedly. The switch 
in hydraulics came about as a result of a roll cage installation which 
included a change to the hydraulics for both the brakes and the clutch. My 
initial plan was to not touch any of that stuff, because it worked fine.

Lesson learned.

I'm also much more clear when I ask this fabricator to do anything to the 
car as he tends to go in with "all guns blazing".

I'm still trying to figure out how to get him to fix the front brace on 
the passenger side that is about 1/16" from the air horns on the Webers. 
But that's another can of worms.

;-)

To the question about what size fittings are in use, the current setup is 
all AN-3. I know that the stock stuff is AN-4. I'm ordering a new clutch 
M/C and some plumbing just for the heck of it. I may get another clutch 
disk and PP, just to have on hand. But to be honest, this is sort of 
frustrating in that I can't test any changes I make until I get to the 
track...

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Tue May 28 10:53:24 2013
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 16:53:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82BFCF3631841845BADD37BD9FE7EA73202D7098@SVR-EXCH02.mccarty-law.com>

Second!

Scott B.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 11:39 AM
To: Friends
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 28 10:54:43 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 12:54:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305281253350.2628@isis.mit.edu>

SECOND

Any Barnes is good in my book (my grandmother was a Barnes).

The fact that the car is a fast TR6 makes the suggestion even better.

rml

On Tue, 28 May 2013, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:

> Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
> TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
> Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!
>
> Email: barnesville at telus.net.
>
> Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lang at isis.mit.edu


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue May 28 14:07:01 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 15:07:01 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
Message-ID: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Tue May 28 15:43:54 2013
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 14:43:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Thanks, Joe. The effort is appreciated.

Edward Dunn

West Coast Vintage Racing
2240 Encinitas Blvd., Suite D101
Encinitas CA 92024

760-492-3814
www.vintageracing.us


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 1:07 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue May 28 16:09:00 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 00:09:00 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>

A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc

Track started to dry.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be


Cheers
Chris


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue May 28 17:15:12 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:15:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
Message-ID: <E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>

Good, neat!  Do you guys ever get to run in the dry ?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc
>
> Track started to dry.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be
>
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rjl at gt-classics.com  Tue May 28 20:13:35 2013
From: rjl at gt-classics.com (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 22:13:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <51A5644F.2040208@gt-classics.com>

Got mine today - they look great.  Thanks Joe.

John

On 5/28/2013 5:43 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:
> Thanks, Joe. The effort is appreciated.
>
> Edward Dunn
>
> West Coast Vintage Racing
> 2240 Encinitas Blvd., Suite D101
> Encinitas CA 92024
>
> 760-492-3814
> www.vintageracing.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 1:07 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
>
> I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving quickly
> past 70 of 100 being delivered.
>
> I did a spread sheet but may make some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
> many or none at all, let me know and I will deal with it.
>
> We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to do this right away.
>
> Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole thing a lot of fun.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe A.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com
>
>
>
>
>    

-- 
Thanks,
R. John Lye

rjl6n at cstone.net


From fasttr4 at aol.com  Tue May 28 20:45:35 2013
From: fasttr4 at aol.com (Bruce Lapierre)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 22:45:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Decals
Message-ID: <8D02A2DBAD7D790-EB4-26AE3@webmail-m140.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks for the effort Joe.  Haven't got mine yet but from all the positive
comments - looking forward to it


From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 28 21:21:16 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:21:16 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>

Well that nomination went over well.

mjb.



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Unsubscribe
Date: 	Tue, 28 May 2013 20:04:11 -0700
From: 	Stephanie Barnes <stephaniegbarnes at gmail.com>
To: 	fot-owner at autox.team.net <fot-owner at autox.team.net>



Please unsubscribe me from this mailing list. Thank you.


From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 28 21:37:37 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 21:37:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
	<51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>
	<881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>

Stephanie Barnes wrote:
> Sorry?? Nomination?!? I'm drawing a complete blank, I'm afraid. I just started receiving a flurry of emails about some decal. I'm not in the decal business, so I assume I got these ten or so emails in error. I tried the 'help' suggestion, but no explanation was forthcoming, therefore I requested to be removed from the list.
>
> I have no knowledge of "fot," nor its products. I apologise for the misunderstanding.
>
> S G Barnes
>
>

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/fot/2013-05/msg00241.html

Apparently the 'Friends of Triumph" - an amazing collection of Triumph 
racers
and enthusiasts, was not properly explained to you.  I'll suggest you 
stick around
for a bit, see if you and your TR6 really want to part ways with us.

mjb.


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May 29 00:41:24 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:41:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>

We have rain and dry races.
I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: John Hasty [mailto:jhhasty at gdhs.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 29. Mai 2013 01:15
An: MadMarx
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Video Zandvoort

Good, neat!  Do you guys ever get to run in the dry ?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 28, 2013, at 6:09 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> A short video from a MG at Zandvoort.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxfuCYou1vc
>
> Track started to dry.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3Yed1knToA&feature=youtu.be
>
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May 29 07:03:50 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:03:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Unsubscribe
In-Reply-To: <51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>
References: <3B486FD7-CF47-4770-81C0-D2B2A2B0BDB4@gmail.com>
	<51A5742C.1020609@bradakis.com>
	<881D4C6E-C008-4422-9D79-9402A7A07D5A@gmail.com>
	<51A57801.7050203@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5BB371DA-3587-4BCF-9B16-AD4D8A61F8D3@cs.com>

Stephanie,

Rumor has it that you and your TR6 are amazing.

This is a semi-exclusive non-organization.

We are also partial to Canadians.

We have no products.

The decals discussed is the logo we apply proudly to our Triumphs and tool
boxes.

Chuck will be with you shortly to explain what he has done by nominating you.

When you run next in the U.S. you will want the FOT logo on your car.

If you decide to stay, welcome aboard.

Joe Alexander

Sent from my iPad

On May 28, 2013, at 10:37 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Stephanie Barnes wrote:
>> Sorry?? Nomination?!? I'm drawing a complete blank, I'm afraid. I just
started receiving a flurry of emails about some decal. I'm not in the decal
business, so I assume I got these ten or so emails in error. I tried the
'help' suggestion, but no explanation was forthcoming, therefore I requested
to be removed from the list.
>>
>> I have no knowledge of "fot," nor its products. I apologise for the
misunderstanding.
>>
>> S G Barnes
>>
>>
>
> http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/fot/2013-05/msg00241.html
>
> Apparently the 'Friends of Triumph" - an amazing collection of Triumph
racers
> and enthusiasts, was not properly explained to you.  I'll suggest you stick
around
> for a bit, see if you and your TR6 really want to part ways with us.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed May 29 07:20:26 2013
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 09:20:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:

> We have rain and dry races.
> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.

That would make you a "real driver".

:-)

> Cheers
> Chris

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Wed May 29 09:42:51 2013
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:42:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Joe, what is the size of this decal?  Thanks, Jim
________________________________
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, May 28, 2013 1:09:16 PM
Subject: [Fot] FOT
Decals

I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving
quickly
past 70 of 100 being delivered.

I did a spread sheet but may make
some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
many or none at all, let me know and
I will deal with it.

We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to
do this right away.

Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole
thing a lot of fun.

Thanks,

Joe A.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sherryjimmy6116 at att.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed May 29 10:52:55 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:52:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FOT Decals
In-Reply-To: <1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<1369842171.81567.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.249.1638252580.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I received mine - they look to be about 3" high x 4" wide.  They are 
nicely trimmed too.

Tony Drews

At 10:42 AM 5/29/2013, sherry robyn wrote:
>Joe, what is the size of this decal?  Thanks, Jim
>________________________________
>From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
>To:
>fot at autox.team.net
>Sent: Tue, May 28, 2013 1:09:16 PM
>Subject: [Fot] FOT
>Decals
>
>I didnt expect such a flurry of activity on the decals. We are moving
>quickly
>past 70 of 100 being delivered.
>
>I did a spread sheet but may make
>some mistakes in delivery. If you get too
>many or none at all, let me know and
>I will deal with it.
>
>We could run another 100, but I am not real anxious to
>do this right away.
>
>Thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm. Makes the whole
>thing a lot of fun.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe A.
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive:
>http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sherryjimmy6116 at att.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed May 29 12:01:26 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:01:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>

I've had enough sliding around in the dry, thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 9:20 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:
> 
>> We have rain and dry races.
>> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.
> 
> That would make you a "real driver".
> 
> :-)
> 
>> Cheers
>> Chris
> 
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed May 29 12:04:36 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:04:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video Zandvoort
In-Reply-To: <141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>
References: <79D78256-0A38-4816-A1E6-4CB491C09FD0@cs.com>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB01F417ADD88F@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<006901ce5bef$f5dff690$e19fe3b0$@com>
	<E57C6B21-2EA4-40BC-A263-06D543191A13@gdhs.com>
	<001801ce5c37$8c99f620$a5cde260$@com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1305290919340.5399@isis.mit.edu>
	<141BFFB0-A173-490C-B9BE-5A34C1DA0130@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001401ce5c96$fbe45ca0$f3ad15e0$@com>

Too low tire pressure ;-)

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: John Hasty [mailto:jhhasty at gdhs.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 29. Mai 2013 20:01
An: Robert M. Lang
Cc: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Video Zandvoort

I've had enough sliding around in the dry, thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 9:20 AM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Wed, 29 May 2013, MadMarx wrote:
>
>> We have rain and dry races.
>> I must confess, the rain ones are more fun.
>
> That would make you a "real driver".
>
> :-)
>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>
> regards,
> rml
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca  Tue May 28 13:27:04 2013
From: peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca (peter.bulkowski at mercedes-benz.ca)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 19:27:04 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Nomination
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAEfsK7Etw43f+Xdco=EOZxMxzb=bb_F7Z1Voj0zr4NQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C3E1F9F018D9614AAD615D1B96DB0B1E1F2519@DE35S004EXC06.wp.corpintra.net>

Second for one more Canadian


----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley [mailto:triosan at gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 06:38 PM W. Europe Standard Time
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Nomination

Racing at Mission in Canada this last weekend I was pleased to find another
TR6.  Beautiful, street legal car out of Clagary.  Driven well by Stephanie
Barnes.  She did not know of FOT, but was anxious to learn.  Car is fast!

Email: barnesville at telus.net.

Need a second!  She is racing this coming weekend with SOVREN in Spokane.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bulkowskip at mercedes-benz.ca



If you are not the addressee, please inform us immediately that you have
received this e-mail by mistake, and delete it. We thank you for your
support.


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed May 29 15:35:48 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 17:35:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Transponder group buy
Message-ID: <001101ce5cb4$7bef1da0$73cd58e0$@rr.com>

There are some folks in VRG that are interested in a show of hands for
anyone wanting to buy a transponder in a group buy to save a bit on the
cost.

If anyone is interested let me know and I will forward your contact info.

 

Russ Moore

Spitfire #49


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Wed May 29 19:31:11 2013
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 21:31:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
Message-ID: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>

Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before they
wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not a
problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
undersized.
Any insight? Ted?
Thanks, Bill
PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look at
you funny!


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:06:21 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:06:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <0766062F-0EF2-4E20-8CF8-A701B8436061@comcast.net>

I too had this problem with fitting rear shoes from Moss.  What I found is
that most replacement shoes are oversized to for turned drums.  The shoe
linings should be no thicker than 3/16".
Moss had just received a new shipment and they were concerned enough to solve
the problem as quickly as they could.  I learned these details of this from my
local British master technician and vintage Morgan racer extraordinaire, Greg
S.

Dave H.

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
they
> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not
a
> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
> undersized.
> Any insight? Ted?
> Thanks, Bill
> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look
at
> you funny!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:08:34 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:08:34 -0700
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <C5A6E0DA-CC9D-41CC-AF49-CF3826DBF35F@comcast.net>

Oh, and Greg happened to have a set of 3/16" thick shoes in stock that went
right on.

Sent from my iPad

On May 29, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "Bill Tobin" <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum drums.
> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
they
> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit (not
a
> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both said
> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
> undersized.
> Any insight? Ted?
> Thanks, Bill
> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they look
at
> you funny!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed May 29 20:44:32 2013
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:44:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] brake question
References: <E545F325-1106-4FF8-8EE0-18B467C4E391@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>

> Hi Bill,
> Common issue for me too. Most of the fined brake drums out there  
> are 240Z with a bit of machining. I just get the shoes ground to  
> fit at my last remaining ol' time brake shop. Though I haven't  
> tried, I suspect that a 240Z shoe would go right on with no fit  
> problems - but I like Ted's shoes [ can't remember the name or  
> compound].
> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
> TR4 #314
> Albuquerque New Mexico
> On May 29, 2013, at 7:31 PM, Bill Tobin wrote:
>
>> Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of  
>> my TR6.
>> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
>> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned  
>> aluminum drums.
>> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on.  
>> Before they
>> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a  
>> bit (not a
>> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
>> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they  
>> both said
>> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same  
>> problem.
>> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
>> undersized.
>> Any insight? Ted?
>> Thanks, Bill
>> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes,  
>> they look at
>> you funny!
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> lunkercars at earthlink.net


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Thu May 30 06:10:43 2013
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:10:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>
References: <E545F325-1106-4FF8-8EE0-18B467C4E391@earthlink.net>
	<E11ECC3A-BFA2-45B3-8F52-16EF3BC7F7DB@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MApWYFo6GjC7sVCT4MRP30DhP0taMeuZ4tfb3XJWYdDg@mail.gmail.com>

I run Ted's shoes also and like them , I also had a small fit problem where
I had to cut the edge of the pad to keep from scrubbing, five min. and it
fitted fine.


On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 10:44 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer <
Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Hi Bill,
>> Common issue for me too. Most of the fined brake drums out there are 240Z
>> with a bit of machining. I just get the shoes ground to fit at my last
>> remaining ol' time brake shop. Though I haven't tried, I suspect that a
>> 240Z shoe would go right on with no fit problems - but I like Ted's shoes [
>> can't remember the name or compound].
>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>> TR4 #314
>> Albuquerque New Mexico
>>
>> On May 29, 2013, at 7:31 PM, Bill Tobin wrote:
>>
>>  Hi Gang, I have a question about rear brake shoes for the rear of my TR6.
>>> For the third time, I'm replacing the rear shoes with uprated ones.
>>> For the third time, the new shoes will not accept my finned aluminum
>>> drums.
>>> With the adjusters backed completely off, the drums won't go on. Before
>>> they
>>> wouldn't accept the standard drums until I had them turned quite a bit
>>> (not a
>>> problem, the drums seem to be very thick).
>>> I talked too Porterfield and KFP over the last couple years, they both
>>> said
>>> the shoes were arced to specs. I'm now using Ted S's shoes; same problem.
>>> I'd like to run the finned drums but will not have them cut that much
>>> undersized.
>>> Any insight? Ted?
>>> Thanks, Bill
>>> PS, if you go to a brake shop and ask about arc grinding shoes, they
>>> look at
>>> you funny!
>>> ______________________________**_________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>> options/fot/lunkercars@**earthlink.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net>
>>>
>> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com>
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Thu May 30 07:43:11 2013
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 09:43:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brake question
In-Reply-To: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
References: <8D3688A8680242B6AD7E6BC8765CEE55@hpd530>
Message-ID: <69CC6CE1-DE9A-4E2B-A69A-A7E19557D952@yahoo.com>

>From what I remember the 240z drums were a smaller radius (metric dimension)
than the TR6 drums, so you will have to have the shoes trimmed to the smaller
240 z radius. A PIA so that's why I changed over to discs 20 years ago.

Mike Munson
#28 EP TR6


From triosan at gmail.com  Thu May 30 09:44:44 2013
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:44:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [6pack] Need a front clip for my TR6
In-Reply-To: <8D02A2DE515D4E9-2228-C4F5@webmail-d234.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CAMc4sNB7qAobCwZsNRVLLtm-GNik83YD+gnoRJ5RXmc6sO2XdA@mail.gmail.com>
	<8D02A2DE515D4E9-2228-C4F5@webmail-d234.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNC4KSxHuC_AHP6GE3AJWfo+W_B5f0D_QC_68upAo8T72w@mail.gmail.com>

I got a clip from a local British car dealer -- expensive but whole and in
good shape.  Now for some cutting, bending, welding and painting to get it
all back in shape.

Chuck

On Tue, May 28, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Mgruber921 <mgruber921 at aol.com> wrote:

> Chuck
> Have very good front clip, every thing you need but I am in ALA. You
> coming this way anytime soon.
>
> Marv
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan at gmail.com>
> To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>; Triumph <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, May 27, 2013 11:45 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Need a front clip for my TR6
>
>  Somew eekends ar really good [like two weeks ago when Iset my personal best
> by half a second at PAcific Raceways].  some are pretty lousy, like when I
> hit the front straight wall at Mission in Canada attempting a pass in the
> rain.  Now a need a front clip [everything forward of the fr
> irewall].  suspension and frame are ok.  See link below for damage pictures.
> https://plus.google.com/photos/103241823961257430252/albums/5882875292021172593?authkey=CIXV_rCP84PJAQ
>
>
> Chuck in Tacoma, WA
>
> ________________________________________
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mgruber921 at aol.com


From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Thu May 30 10:27:05 2013
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (sgroh1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:27:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Needed:  Mk 3 Spitfire Bonnet!!!!
Message-ID: <1288811363.2650367.1369931225436.JavaMail.root@sz0053a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

FOT, I am in need of a restorable Spitfire Mk3 bonnet - mine was damaged
beyond repair at the Jefferson 500 at Summit Point.B  Any leads greatly
appreciated!!!



Sincerely,



Steve Groh, #393 Spitfire

410-322-9047

sgroh1 at comcast.net


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 30 12:36:12 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:36:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
Message-ID: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>

TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
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and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Thu May 30 12:39:40 2013
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 11:39:40 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>

Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the handling. I
tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's addition
works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.




On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu May 30 12:53:50 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:53:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>

Almost everyone who has run a rear sway bar has removed it.

Years ago it was discussed with a TR3 racer at RA. He disconnected sway bar
and immediately  2 seconds faster than he had ever run before.

They may work well on the the street, but it seems that at some point in hard
racing, it breaks the rear end loose. Some one else likely can explain this
better.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2013, at 1:36 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Thu May 30 13:03:18 2013
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 15:03:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<24297A38-4833-422B-B23C-C451BB9E9482@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000c01ce5d68$58fab390$0af01ab0$@rr.com>

My good friend and racing partner years ago tried one despite my cautioning
him. Did maybe a lap of Summit Point with it on and pulled in to take it off
immediately. Seems it kept pushing him into the dirt. That was on a
Spitfire, maybe TR3 is different but I would be surprised. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 2:54 PM
To: john hasty
Cc: <Fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars

Almost everyone who has run a rear sway bar has removed it.

Years ago it was discussed with a TR3 racer at RA. He disconnected sway bar
and immediately  2 seconds faster than he had ever run before.

They may work well on the the street, but it seems that at some point in
hard racing, it breaks the rear end loose. Some one else likely can explain
this better.

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2013, at 1:36 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If 
> so, how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any 
> attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK
PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that 
> any dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If 
> you have received this communication in error, please erase all copies 
> of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS 
> regulations regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly 
> stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any 
> attachments) is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be 
> used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) 
> promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any transaction 
> or matter addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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_______________________________________________
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From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 30 13:04:39 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:04:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>

It is hard to make a sway bar recommendation without
knowing the rest of the front and rear suspension
details.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bill Babcock
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:39 PM
To: john hasty
Cc: Fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars

Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the handling. 
I
tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's addition
works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe 
Tony
will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.




On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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_______________________________________________
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-----
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From rjl6n at cstone.net  Thu May 30 13:55:05 2013
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 15:55:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
	<1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
	<AA3BD29D6027400A9F3CD955B2D961EF@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <5d29b2cb36abc87d64da3d43e79b77c0.squirrel@webmail.ntelos.net>

Exactly.  Depending on what you want the car to do,
and what else you have done, a rear sway bar can
help you or can hurt.  It is all about the balance.
If you run no front sway bar, or a small one, a
rear sway bar on a TR-3 is probably too much.  If
you run a heavy front sway bar, you might need a
rear sway bar to balance the handling out.  You
need to look at the whole package, not just one end
at a time.

For example, my solid axle TR-4 used very heavy front
and rear sway bars, and I think that anyone who drove
it would say that it handled pretty well - for autocross,
where a loose rear end (ie, a car that oversteers
slightly)can be an asset.  Along with the sway bars,
though, that car also had changes to the front camber,
stiff shocks and a very aggressive alignment (toe out).

I hope that helps,
John

On Thu, May 30, 2013 3:04 pm, riverside at southslope.net wrote:
> It is hard to make a sway bar recommendation without
> knowing the rest of the front and rear suspension
> details.
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Babcock
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 1:39 PM
> To: john hasty
> Cc: Fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Sway Bars
>
> Tony added a very light sway bar to Peyote last year after despite my
> longstanding arguement that a rear swaybar on a TR3 screws up the
> handling.
> I
> tried a heavier one years ago and it was horrible. Naturally Tony's
> addition
> works tremendously well and knocked a second or two off my time. The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe
> Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.
>
>
>
>
> On May 30, 2013, at 11:36 AM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If
>> so,
>> how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?
>>
>> John H. Hasty
>> Attorney At Law
>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>> 719 East Boulevard
>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>> www.gdhs.com
>>
>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any
>> attachments)
> is
>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
>> that
>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK
>> PRODUCT.
>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
> message
>> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>>
>> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS
>> regulations
>> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
> otherwise,
>> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any
>> attachments)
>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes
>> of
>> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii)
>> promoting,
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 14:05:35 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:05:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <1E4D2791-B08A-4B85-A83D-578FDB1E9B3A@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <20130530200535.LH8K7.29295.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.

Ditto.

FWIW, I ran the ADDCO bars (3/4" front, 5/8" rear) for many years on my street TR3A.  On the street, I liked the setup, although I did install harder bushings to get more action from the front bar, and left the links pretty loose at the rear (for less action).  My next step was going to be a stiffer bar in the front (probably a 3/4" bar with the extra bends to attach nearer the uprights instead of in the middle of the A-arm like the ADDCO kit).

But on the track, the rear bar was definitely too much.  I didn't get a good before & after because I changed some other things at the same time; but I did pick up about a second at the VTR 2000 autocross with the rear bar disconnected.  I also reconnected it for the drive home and left it that way.  On the street, maintaining control during an emergency maneuver is more important to me, than being able to put down power during a hard turn.  On the track, it's just the opposite.

If/when I install a rear bar again, it will be with the spring-loaded links that allow for fine adjustment of roll stiffness.

Randall


From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 14:24:02 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:24:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
Message-ID: <20130530202402.865B0.29377.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The trick
> seems to be VERY LIGHT sway bar. 5/8" is probably too heavy, though maybe Tony
> will chime in. It's very sensitive to adjustment.

Ditto.

FWIW, I ran the ADDCO bars (3/4" front, 5/8" rear) for many years on my street TR3A.  On the street, I liked the setup, although I did install harder bushings to get more action from the front bar, and left the links pretty loose at the rear (for less action).  My next step was going to be a stiffer bar in the front (probably a 3/4" bar with the extra bends to attach nearer the uprights instead of in the middle of the A-arm like the ADDCO kit).

But on the track, the rear bar was definitely too much.  I didn't get a good before & after because I changed some other things at the same time; but I did pick up about a second at the VTR 2000 autocross with the rear bar disconnected.  I also reconnected it for the drive home and left it that way.  On the street, maintaining control during an emergency maneuver is more important to me, than being able to put down power during a hard turn.  On the track, it's just the opposite.

If/when I install a rear bar again, it will be with the spring-loaded links that allow for fine adjustment of roll stiffness.

Randall


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu May 30 14:52:34 2013
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:52:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
Message-ID: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>

Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral only "
plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too much
lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main objective
is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to control
under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with as of
yet.


From riverside at southslope.net  Thu May 30 15:35:06 2013
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:35:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
References: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <48335592C8F24D4C8AC7C8DDEAF43B10@rileyPC>

If you only stiffen the back, you may easily get too much oversteer.
Maybe some stiffer front springs would be a good partner for
the rear bar since you would like less body roll.
   I prefer to not add roll stiffness at the front with
a bar.  If don't like a beam axle at the front.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: John Hasty
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:52 PM
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar

Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral only 
"
plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too much
lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main objective
is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to control
under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with as 
of
yet.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3343 / Virus Database: 3184/6369 - Release Date: 05/30/13 


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Thu May 30 15:39:57 2013
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 07:39:57 +1000
Subject: [Fot] brake question
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b2qgjrdP89SROxD8S5cyKxu_zubEaNcvBNJJmK31XCo=w@mail.gmail.com>

the 240Z finned drum is 228mm (8.97") stock. the max suggested is
9.055" and I've successfully used them larger than this with thicker
linings

this is 0.030" smaller than a TR which is 9.00" stock

the way i do this, is to machine the Z drums to a sensible size, then
get the shoes relined and radius ground to match the drum. no hassles
at all. find a "old school" brake shop with a shoe grinder

Terry


Road and Track
66 Pine Mountain Road
North Ipswich, 4305
Queensland, AUSTRALIA
ph 07-32018866
fax 07-32017079
www.roadandtrack.net.au
http://www.facebook.com/RoadAndTrack1


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu May 30 15:44:22 2013
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 23:44:22 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Sway Bars
In-Reply-To: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
References: <6EA1EE7D454D403F9E701E9C938C66CF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <000001ce5d7e$db2153e0$9163fba0$@com>

I'm a friend of rear sway bars.
I use a 11/16" one.
But fitting one depends on the whole setup.
I have a very soft springs much camber and set the car to a gentle
understeer.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von john hasty
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 30. Mai 2013 20:36
An: Fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Sway Bars

TR3 racers (or anyone else) Anyone run a Addco 5/8" rear sway bar?  If so,
how does it do?  If not, why?  Any other brand rear bars used?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
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received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

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any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
_______________________________________________
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May 31 06:07:13 2013
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 08:07:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] brakes & sway bars
Message-ID: <51A89271.3010005@bright.net>

Thanks for the positive comments on our Kevlar shoes. For those 
unfamiliar with the prduct, we reline brake shoes with Kevlar. This is a 
drum "friendly" product, fairly high coefficiednt of friction (.45 - 
.47) and does not need to be warmed up. So, you have brakes the first 
time you hit the pedal and are consistent from then on . Since these are 
relined shoes, we can pretty well do anything. Shoes for our cars are 
$65/set of 4.  For race applications we bond and rivet.  Larger shoes, 
such as American cars, can be done but at a higher price.  Bad news is 
there is going to be a price increase to effective June 1.  If you order 
soon and specify FOT price, wqe will honor the $65.  Offer good through 
June 15.

Sway bars are used to "tune" a suspension.  If everything else is not 
done first, frame straight to springs to bushings, throwing a sway bar 
at the car does not fix anything, only acts as a bandage. Our website, 
www.tsimportedautomotive.com. has a section on waybar rates and handling 
"what if's". Click Product Information" and take a look.  Some of the 
rear bars use a really quesionalbe mounting method.  It involves 
drilling holes in lower frame rail and using a rectangular "U" bolt to 
retain the bar mount. A lot to ask from a frame that is 40+ years old. 
We redesigned a rear mount that does not require frame to be drilled and 
allows fore/aft movement to change bar rate. Yes, we do make bars.
Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Fri May 31 15:39:19 2013
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:39:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] free Mk4/5 Spitfire tub in Austin, TX
Message-ID: <401D09FA-D180-40DB-B623-9C18866F719F@gmail.com>

This circulated in our local Triumph Club. The photo I saw suggested the car
had been pieced together under the seats.  I can email the photo off-group if
someone is interested.  I have nothing to do with this car; just passing along
the info.

Duncan

>>Howdy Steve: I parted out this little spitfire because itturned out that the
front and back halves of the tub where from two different cars.  I don't know
if anyone in the club needs some replacement metal for a MKIV - MKV, if they
do they can call me up and come pick it up, otherwise I am going to scrap it
in the next few days.  (Yes it is free)

Art Schoenig

artschoenigco at gmail.com


From stutzmans at comcast.net  Fri May 31 20:15:47 2013
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 22:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
References: <40FA9EF2-3EFF-4062-BE83-F6C75BF663C8@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <EC78713DFDBF455EA33EEF7CD3A0DB15@ComputerPC>

A bar on the rear of a TR3 usually causes the inside rear tire to lift on 
tight turns.
If you have a stock diff or a Quaife you may well spin.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 4:52 PM
Subject: [Fot] Sway bar


> Thanks guys.  We have a 3/4 " front bar & and the car is pretty neutral 
> only "
> plows" in tight flat or off camber turns like #1at VIR. But I have too 
> much
> lean in fast turns like 1&12 at Road Atlanta and Hog Pen at VIR. The rear
> tires rub the fenders.  Maybe my 210 lbs adds to this, but my main 
> objective
> is to harden up the rear without inducing oversteer. I've learned to 
> control
> under steer but oversteer at speed is not something I'm comfortable with 
> as of
> yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net