[Fot] How likely is cracking a trailing arm on a TR6?

TR4 Tony tr4.tony at virgin.net
Thu Jun 20 01:26:18 MDT 2013


I've had one crack on a very quick road going IRS 4a I used to own, between
the bolts that hold the hub in place across the top of the cast tunnel they
run through. That was as a result of a wire wheel shredding rapidly and the
shaft impacting the casting. This is typically the way these castings fail -
they are hollow and very strong.

I don't think you will have a problem because of the shock settings, more
likely something else giving up and causing a problem so it's vital to make
sure that everything is in good order across the whole IRS set up.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On 19 Jun 2013, at 23:48, Jamie <tr6driver at yahoo.com> wrote:

> On ****street**** cars, with the less expensive conversions using very
short
> shocks, the biggest thing is the way the lower part of the shock connects
to
> the trailing arm.  As the suspension goes through its range of motion, a
lot
> of side deflection (angle change) goes on and the place on the trailing arm
> where the shock bolts on isn't designed for that and breaks off.  Note that
> the same basic design is used on the 2000/2500/2.5 PI sedans and Stag BUT
with
> a much longer shock to reduce the angle change.  It works just fine.
>
> Jamie Palmer
>
>
> On Jun 19, 2013, at 5:11 PM, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> The trailing arms are pretty tough. The only place I could even imagine
> them
>> cracking would be at the spring
>>
>> seat area but even there it would take some sort of casting defect. I
> wouldn't
>> sweat it.
>>
>> jim g
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>> From: "sherry robyn" <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 3:12:19 PM
>> Subject: [Fot] How likely is cracking a trailing arm on a TR6?
>>
>> I have regular height stiffer springs, rear sway bar, stock soft bushings
> in
>> trailing arm and diff (with cups on diff mounts), frame strengthening in
>> certain areas, and red Konis (soft bushings) with the conversion tied into
> the
>> roll cage. B I currently have the Konis set on the second to the stiffest
>> setting. B I backed off the stiffest setting for the Konis due to talk of
> the
>> trailing arm cracking. B I am just wondering if I can go to the stiffest
>> setting on the Konis without much worry. B Any thoughts would be
> appreciated.
>> Thanks, Jim
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