[Fot] Advice on Differential - Stock, Lock or LSD

[Scott Janzen]

Jason raises some excellent points on weak links in the system - my drivetrain is virtually non-stock, with a TR4-6 transmission (GT6 ones last a couple of weekends if you are lucky), a modified driveshaft, the welded rear, halfshafts with spicer u-joints inside and outside, and modified uprights with larger bearings and Corvair stub axles.
With the exception of the transmission, this is the way the car came to me, as it was raced in SCCA club racing back in the day.

On Jan 16, 2013, at 1:04 PM, jason at multivintage.com wrote:

Hey Chuck, lots of interesting feedback here. If I were in your position, I'd buy a couple good used 3.89's. (From a reliable used Triumph parts guy, like TSI or similar trusted source)
Speaking from experience and paying specific attention to what Steve said. (He went through slow progression of set-ups that actually get harder and harder on the drive train with each developement) Like all of us GT6 guys, you will be embarking on a long path of finding drivetrain solidity that fits your driving style. In this process, you are most likely going to destroy a few key components. (Every one of us has). Perhaps, for  the process of learning how to drive this car at hi speed and getting it initially sorted. For your first season, you may be very wise in the pocketbook, to start a regular old (good) stock diff. 
I think that (specifically for the gt6) you can take the Quaife off the table. In the end, I agree with Scott and Steve; the welded set up is the advanced choice. 
BUT, its effectiveness leaves no room for errors in the transition between gears. Perfect rev matching is required and lots of seat time prior to a "trick" diff. may serve you well.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
------Original Message------
From: Charles WATSON
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] Advice on Differential - Stock, Lock or LSD
Sent: Jan 16, 2013 7:29 AM

Well my GT6 has O/D and so it was supposed to have the 3.89 ratio diff.  But I
have found that was swapped out at some point to a 3.27.  I want to go back to
a 3.89 unit.  Any good sources for one?  And for road racing, should I go
stock, weld it, or go with a LSD.  I hear of a lot of failures with the Quaife
units - so I hate to throw a grand at that product.  Any advice is
appreciated!

Thanks,

Chuck Watson
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