[Fot] Never be beaten by equipment

[Tony and Annie Garmey]

All my TR3/4 engines are fitted with a dash 8 line from the cold side of the
water pump  to the Block drain and a dash 6 from the water fitting in the back
of the head to the thomo housing. Requires some welding and maching of bungs
in the right places. Tony
 > Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 14:17:12 -0500
> From: cartravel at pobox.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Never be beaten by equipment
>
> I have seen a lot of people that run the line from the rear heater port
> to the pump intake.  This will encourage more flow to the rear of the
> engine, but then it is taken away, so there is less flow through the
> head and back to the pump.  I spoke to a guy that modified his pump for
> an outlet so that he could run water directly from the pump to the rear
> of the engine.  I believe he ran it to the drain hole at the bottom of
> #4.  Seems like a neat idea and I'm surprised no one else has done it.
>
> The best thing I ever did to help with this problem was to install a
> Chevy radiator that was the width of the inner fenders in my TR3.  I
> then had much more control over the heat in the engine.
> Larry
>
> On 9/12/2012 9:24 AM, EDWARD BARNARD wrote:
> > My question to the group is, to aid coolant flow to the rear cylinder I
have
> > always routed the heater bypass pipe running down the left side of the
engine
> > up to the heater valve port on the right side of the head. My thought
being
> > that it is similar to "cracking" open the heater valve on your street car,
and
> > that it would allow some flow to the backside of the #4 cylinder.
> > Any thoughts on this? Glen?
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