From vintageautoservice at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  1 10:59:48 2012
From: vintageautoservice at yahoo.com (Guy Morter)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 09:59:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 frames
Message-ID: <1349110788.14055.YahooMailClassic@web162204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hello fot,
Anyone know if the TR3 frames are all the same from year to year?
Thanks
Guy Morter
Vintage Auto Service
262 573 4511

Flatheads Forever!

From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Oct  2 14:59:39 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2012 16:59:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
Message-ID: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>

the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap when the car is running.
It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.

Ideas on where to start?

From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Oct  2 15:57:34 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 21:57:34 +0000
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>

Check to see if the cross over pipe is plugged as that will make the inlets
pulse. There is no power gain having hte cross over plugged.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 16:59:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
>
> the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap
when the car is running.
> It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.
>
> Ideas on where to start?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 16:31:13 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 18:31:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <18258D64-9044-4400-ADF9-00E6194165C6@aol.com>

A friends bugeye had the same problem.  Solution was to raise the idle to
about 1700.  After all it was a race engine.

Chris

On Oct 2, 2012, at 4:59 PM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap
when the car is running.
> It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.
>
> Ideas on where to start?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Oct  2 18:25:47 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 20:25:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <5468320c-3a59-449a-8640-9ce323d2aee3@blur>

Scott, what model SU's - H6 or HS6? Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 2, 2012 20:59:39 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question

the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter  
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the  
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic  
cap when the car is running.
It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it  
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper  
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.

Ideas on where to start?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Oct  3 07:58:53 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 09:58:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
Message-ID: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty

From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Wed Oct  3 08:40:00 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 10:40:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 cam
Message-ID: <CALsVEtAyCc2Q0-qx4PoDz5tC=bSimpAjOAVDV17UthP0s03Mtg@mail.gmail.com>

I found a new (or freshly reground) cam in my spares bin that is marked on
the box as "TR-3 cam", and is stamped on the end with "M 13".  None of the
other cams I have are stamped except racing cams.  Does M 13 on a TR3 cam
mean anything to anyone?  Don

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Oct  3 09:09:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:09:02 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000901cda179$06fc86a0$14f593e0$@com>

Replace them with ARP bolts if possible.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von marty sukey
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 3. Oktober 2012 15:59
An: FOT
Betreff: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested
and size checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the
tightening requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod
bolts when new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure
they have not been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length
measurement.  I would just replace them all for good measure but I was
quoted a price of $56 per bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the
original bolts IF they are still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods
of determining if these rod bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts
are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 09:22:50 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 11:22:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000f01cda17a$f3d4bd20$db7e3760$@rr.com>

Marty, I was looking this up in my docs. I knew I had the info somewhere.

First off, the original length of the bolts when new isn't what they're
talking about. Those bolts are reusable AND as you found out SUPER
expensive. They are referring to the delta between the "0" torque length and
the measured length as you tighten them. There is a special tool to do this
with which I used the first few builds. What I did was document what the
torque was when I achieved that level of stretch. I have the same rods you
do. It worked out that 38 to 39 Ft lbs yielded a .007" stretch which is what
you want. The condition of this is that you use the ARP moly lube on the
threads. Do not do this with dry threads. 

Hope this helps-sorry for the delay.

Russ Moore



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 9:59 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested
and size checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the
tightening requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod
bolts when new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure
they have not been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length
measurement.  I would just replace them all for good measure but I was
quoted a price of $56 per bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the
original bolts IF they are still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods
of determining if these rod bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts
are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From sjanzen at me.com  Wed Oct  3 09:49:56 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 11:49:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <80EEC632-AE6F-450C-A20A-2F1C06C62BC1@me.com>

I over-streched a couple of these once by using ARP lube, which is much slicker than the lube Carillo recommends.  Make sure you use the right stuff - I think it's a moly Loctite product, which I found at Pep Boys, though Carrillo now sells their own brand.  My experience is that if they have been over-stretched, when you tighten them to the correct torque they will stretch more than indicated, or conversely if you tighten to the correct stretch it won't take enough torque.  They are dinky little bolts and the required torque is quite low.  So, if you tighten to 215 inch-pounds and they stretch as indicated, they should still be good.

Ridiculously expensive, too!  I wonder if you couldn't replace them with an ARP product for less?

On Oct 3, 2012, at 9:58 AM, marty sukey wrote:

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 09:50:37 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 09:50:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Message-ID: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>

The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
doesn't engage.

So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.

With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.

What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
(voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
at 12.75)?

I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
other?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From sjanzen at me.com  Wed Oct  3 10:05:54 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 12:05:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
	<SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <07073BE7-AC59-43F0-A355-2C95332E145B@me.com>

Many good responses and things to check out - will report back when a conclusion is reached.  In the meantime, putting a replacement diff in the GT6 for Watkins Glen next weekend.

From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Wed Oct  3 10:39:51 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:39:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 cam ID
Message-ID: <CALsVEtCfL0wkEx8=Fea+PhCTqCRcDqriAe8zDnWDokBcBrJvjw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to Michael Porter, I have identified the TR3 mystery cam.

It was done by American Cam Grinding in LA back in the early 80s.
 According to the guy I talked to at their shop, it was a popular hot
street grind "back in the day" and is still pretty popular now.  I happen
to have the engine for my TR3 in the shop waiting to be reassembled, so
this will probably go into that one.  When I took it out of the box it was
wrapped in a LA racing sheet from 1982, so that's how long it's been
sitting around waiting for a home.  Don

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Wed Oct  3 12:06:23 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 14:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <92364BCD-A756-4843-9564-C44643630C60@bellsouth.net>

A high impedance 3rd/4th gear selector switch?

 
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
> doesn't engage.
> 
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
> 
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
> 
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
> at 12.75)?
> 
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
> other?
> 
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> 
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tarch at bellsouth.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 12:20:13 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:20:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <58EE04CF-45E1-400B-A1BE-A8FD818D8BF8@yahoo.com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<58EE04CF-45E1-400B-A1BE-A8FD818D8BF8@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <991B8580-071E-4E5B-B1DF-70E65A16380A@comcast.net>

Yes there's a relay and it clicks when the OD selector switch is  
thrown. It passes all the voltage tests for the brown, the white, the  
yellow purple wires. I get voltage through it to the yellow purple  
wire right to the solenoid. I suspected it too since it was the last  
thing I did to the OD circuit but that was over a year ago and it  
worked up until now.


Bud



Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 12:00 PM, Yahoo wrote:

> Isn't there a relay between the column and the solenoid?
>
> Ty
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> '63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
> '62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
> ++++
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 9:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 12:49:15 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>

Sounds like a grounding problem.  Did you measure the voltage at the
solenoid between the bullet connector and the ground of the battery?  I
would also try running a ground wire direct from the battery to the "case"
or ground of the solenoid and trying that.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:51 AM
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem

The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
doesn't engage.

So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.

With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.

What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
(voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
at 12.75)?

I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
other?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 12:49:15 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001cda197$c9cd6ff0$5d684fd0$@com>

I recently installed Carrillo rods in the TR4 engine.  The bolts are 3/8
inch SPS CARR S6's and are marked "S6-S-A13".
The free length was 1.850 and a stretch of 0.007 inch required 50 FT-LB of
torque.  I used the Loctite anti-Seize compound supplied by Carrillo.  I
would think Carrillo could give you the length of the new S4 (1/4 inch)
bolt. If your bolts are within a couple of thousandths of that dimension you
would be okay.  If they are beyond the 0.007 stretch then they have been
over torqued beyond their yield point and would have to be replaced.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 8:59 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and
size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have
not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these
rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 12:56:13 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:56:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>
Message-ID: <96F0F1D3-E0BC-4E61-A245-EDDD39282E9F@comcast.net>

Yes I tested it and got continuity from the solenoid body to the  
transmission and to the body. As far as I can tell the solenoid  
grounds itself with the bolts used to attach it to it's bracket on the  
OD. I'll try to ground it at known working ground locations like the  
battery itself.

Thanks
Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 12:49 PM, Tim Murphy wrote:

> Sounds like a grounding problem.  Did you measure the voltage at the
> solenoid between the bullet connector and the ground of the  
> battery?  I
> would also try running a ground wire direct from the battery to the  
> "case"
> or ground of the solenoid and trying that.
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:51 AM
> To: FOT List
> Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
>
> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
> doesn't engage.
>
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Oct  3 13:01:15 2012
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 15:01:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>

It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would get 12v
but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the voltage with the
solenoid on and off.

On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
> doesn't engage.
>
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 13:16:55 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap  
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the  
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay  
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the  
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to  
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing  
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would  
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the  
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> bownes at web9.com

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 16:13:36 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:13:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
	<AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001cda1b4$560c8a20$02259e60$@com>

I'm assuming that when you tested the solenoid on a separate battery you
were putting the 12 volts to the bullet connector and the ground or negative
battery terminal to the case of the solenoid.  That being the case, the
bullet connector to the soldered connection on the solenoid appears to be
good.

Using alligator clips, connect the positive or red lead of the voltmeter to
the bullet connector on the solenoid wire and the negative or black lead of
the voltmeter to the negative terminal of the battery (Ground).   Now flip
the OD switch to "ON".  If there is a low voltage at the solenoid it is due
to high resistance, such as bad contacts in the relay, between the solenoid
and the positive terminal of the battery.  The voltage is being dropped
across the high resistance with very little current and you are getting low
voltage at the solenoid.

If when you flip the OD switch to "ON" and get 12 volts at the solenoid but
it does not "pick up" or energize, you have an open ground circuit between
the solenoid and the negative battery terminal and no current flowing the
solenoid.

Seeing as how you have tried 2 different solenoids it would seem unlikely to
have 2 with intermittent ground contact inside the solenoid itself.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 2:17 PM
To: Bob Bownes - Seiri
Cc: FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap  
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the  
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay  
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the  
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to  
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing  
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would  
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the  
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 21:36:34 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 21:36:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
Message-ID: <mailman.23.1349322232.3155.fot@autox.team.net>

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 06:52:11 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 06:52:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
In-Reply-To: <000001cda211$124bbe70$36e33b50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.24.1349355550.3155.fot@autox.team.net>

Thanks Russ but I'll do my own flow bench work. If we didn't reinvent the
wheel we would all still be running around with wooden spokes.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfire Racing [mailto:spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2012 3:17 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Jim,
I believe there were a few different castings and among them was a variation
in thicknesses. I ran into this on Spitfire heads also. I had done what you
are suggesting and had what I thought was accurate information on how I
could mill and port the head. I ruined a head right off the bat due to a
casting variation. I found there wasn't a lot of consistency through
production runs.
You might want to check with Tony Drews. I believe he and Jack had done all
this and come up with the hot ticket. No point trying to reinvent the wheel
if it's already done.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 11:37 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com

From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  4 09:13:11 2012
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (CHIP COLLINGWOOD)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 16:13:11 +0100 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <16923803.1349363591018.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXOuT7qr: Permission denied

From rikrock at live.com  Thu Oct  4 14:56:57 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 16:56:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
Message-ID: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>

Amici,

Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is to
put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?

Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.

Thanks!

Rich Rock

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Oct  4 14:46:28 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 15:46:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
In-Reply-To: <20121004044655.E0D892C0C87@autox.team.net>
References: <20121004044655.E0D892C0C87@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001b01cda271$54336170$fc9a2450$@com>

I believe we have a head that you could use.  It is cracked and has about
.200 or more milled off of it by the previous owner.  I'd have to check the
numbers on the head to make sure it is what you are looking for and could
send a photo also.  We are in Wisconsin so the shipping charge might be a
bit high.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:37 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu Oct  4 16:46:51 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>

We use 2&3

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> Amici,
>
> Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
to
> put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
>
> Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Oct  4 21:15:59 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 22:15:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.26.1349406791.3155.fot@autox.team.net>

I use 1 and 4 but don't have a solid reason why that would be better 
or worse than 2 & 3.  4's the one that usually has problems if one of 
the cylinders is going to have a problem, I suppose.

Tony

At 05:46 PM 10/4/2012, John Hasty wrote:
>We use 2&3
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
>to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock

From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Oct  4 21:35:12 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 03:35:12 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>,
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 23:02:11 2012
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 22:02:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <506E69D3.8050206@comcast.net>

I put them in 1 and 4 on the Spit. Worked fine on the chassis dyno where 
they have fans blowing all over the place to keep stuff cool.  On the 
track, the 1 reads 150-200 degrees colder than 4 because of the airflow 
through the radiator and under the hood, etc making the results useless 
for making adjustments.  I'd suggest 2 & 3, but haven't tried it. I took 
off the # 1 probe and am adding an o2 sensor instead. Haven't got that 
done yet either.

On 10/4/2012 3:46 PM, John Hasty wrote:
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
>> Amici,
>>
>> Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
>> put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
>> cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
>>
>> Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Rich Rock
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 08:15:54 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Kas,

Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because

with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.

I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row

that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed

water jacket.

If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?

Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow

this winter.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3. B Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
B > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4. B The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four. B Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders? B Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system B is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Oct  5 09:21:03 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 15:21:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>,
	<1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W1390EC9EBD0FDD2D235911DF8B0@phx.gbl>

After all my inspections and deliberating and worrying and looking I never
found a reason,  but if I had a problem it would genrally be number three.

Never be beaten by equipment
 Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: kaskas at cox.net
CC: fot at autox.team.net; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

Kas,
Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because
with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.
I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row
that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed
water jacket.
If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?
Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow
this winter.
jim g





From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From rikrock at live.com  Fri Oct  5 13:43:51 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 15:43:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
Message-ID: <COL401-EAS204271B83F35CFDB97A1D68C68B0@phx.gbl>

Thanks everyone for all the info!

Who's going to the VRG event at Watkins Glen next weekend?

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: Kas Kastner
Sent: 10/5/2012 11:21 AM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Cc: fot; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?


After all my inspections and deliberating and worrying and looking I never
found a reason,  but if I had a problem it would genrally be number three.

Never be beaten by equipment
 Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: kaskas at cox.net
CC: fot at autox.team.net; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

Kas,
Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because
with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.
I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row
that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed
water jacket.
If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?
Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow
this winter.
jim g





From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Oct  5 20:01:22 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri,  5 Oct 2012 20:01:22 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
Message-ID: <20121006020122.EBF142E07B@bradakis.com>

The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for
many years is failing.  I'm working on replacing it with a brand
new Actiontec unit.  It is not going well.  There are some issues
with the new modem that need to be resolved.

So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few
minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply
the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware.

I appreciate your patience.

mjb.

From kenandtweety at yahoo.com  Sat Oct  6 06:33:51 2012
From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 05:33:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
In-Reply-To: <20121006020122.EBF142E07B@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1349526831.1824.YahooMailClassic@web111403.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Mark,
  If the BFH doesn't do it use my favorite, THE HOT WRENCH.
Ken Suhre

--- On Fri, 10/5/12, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:


From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
Subject: [Fot] List availability
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, October 5, 2012, 9:01 PM


The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for
many years is failing.  I'm working on replacing it with a brand
new Actiontec unit.  It is not going well.  There are some issues
with the new modem that need to be resolved.

So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few
minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply
the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware.

I appreciate your patience.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Sat Oct  6 09:26:29 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 11:26:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
Message-ID: <1b5.6aec2ab7.3da1a7a4@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/06/2012 8:41:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
kenandtweety at yahoo.com writes:


> Mark,
>   If the BFH doesn't do it use my favorite, THE HOT WRENCH.
> 

Ken...

How would using a hot wench help?

I guess it wouldn't hurt.

Bill Dentinger

From ac at camoletti.ch  Sat Oct  6 14:25:27 2012
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 22:25:27 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
In-Reply-To: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
References: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>

Dear Larry! I am back into my FOT inbox, not read since Feb this year!
10-14h per day at work, then workshop (or bed) and week ends 15-20h in the
shop, so no email time, except for orders etc.
Now I try to catch up. Hope you are well !
Regarding the subject of your email below (Oct 15 2011): I plugged in my
Innovate LM-2 with RPM and other sensors. Works perfectly fine. Had read
horrible stories about RPM, impossible to read, bouncing all he time, etc.
I simply used exclusively HQ screened cable (each wire being self screened,
then the whole cable is screened again ) to feed 12V to the LM2 and same
cable for the sensors. With soldering, not crimps or split in. And a common
negative all to bat negative via the screened cable. Such cable is
expensive, like 5 per yard, but it works just perfectly, RMP is stable and
accurate within 10rpm, sensors as well and the software LogWorks works fine
too.
Did you manage to get your Innovate stuff work with the dyno?
What about camshafts ? Id' love to get yours for the TR3-4!
Cheers!
Alex

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de Larry Young
Envoyi : samedi 15 octobre 2011 23:59
@ : FOT
Cc : Tom Young
Objet : [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?

Does anyone have experience with data acquisition using hardware from
Innovate Motorsports?

Some friends and I are bringing an old water brake dyno back to life for
some engine testing. The data acquisition stuff at Innovate Motorsports
looked good and they could furnish everything we needed.  We bought a
pressure transducer to get torque (thru force using a hydraulic cylinder), a
Hall effect sensor to get RPM, and a wide band oxygen sensor for AFR.  These
are connected through an interface "box" which goes to an RS232 port using
USB to RS232 cable.

We've had nothing but problems with their system.  We had to return the
interface box once already to be fixed (which took about 3 weeks).
After that we were able to get pressure, but it often loses its settings and
must be reset.  We get RPM a few seconds before it craps out. No AFR.  The
whole system is flaky.  I am now sending the box and sensors back a second
time.  I think the interface box still has problems. I can't decide whether
to give up on them completely. It seems like it shouldn't be this difficult.

Does anyone else have experience with this company? Do you have a different
company you would recommend? I realize this is a little different from data
acquisition for racing, since we are going direct to the computer, but
thought some of you might have a suggestion.

TIA, Larry Young
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From ac at camoletti.ch  Sat Oct  6 15:25:44 2012
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 23:25:44 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS
In-Reply-To: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004101cda409$25a873b0$70f95b10$@camoletti.ch>

Hi Joe! Is this rear mount available finally ?
Thank you for your reply!
Kind regards
AlexC

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de Joe Alexander
Envoyi : vendredi 9 mars 2012 15:25
@ : fot at autox.team.net
Objet : [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS

 FOT,

For 20 years we have dealt with various motor mounts at the transmission.
Once we replaced a motor mount at Road America with material available.....a
pine 2 x 4.  We are not sure if that wasnt the best one we had to that
point.

Sean got tired of fiddling with substandard mounts and designed his own.  He
will be installing for use at Road Atlanta.  But I think he will have 1 or 2
more with him.  It is compatible with the old mount as a direct bolt in
replacement.

If anyone is interested in seeing it, Sean will show and explain. It is
heavy duty, but provides vibration isolation.

He is doing it in SOLIDWORKS for the laser program and has constructed a
mold, so he can produce more if there is a future interest.

It is likely a lifetime rear mount for race or street.

Any one else interested? Please let me know.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From cartravel at pobox.com  Sat Oct  6 15:56:51 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 16:56:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
In-Reply-To: <000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>
References: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
	<000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>
Message-ID: <5070A923.1050401@pobox.com>

A couple of friends and I played several months with the Innovate stuff 
for an engine dyno.  We sent it back to Innovate twice.  Had lots of 
problems with RF interference from all sorts of sources. Was also 
sensitive to the USB to RS-232 conversion cable.  Could never get 
consistent readings with it.  Finally the SSI-4 box quit and we gave up 
rather than sending it back a third time.  Some of their stuff may be 
OK, but our experience trying to record direct to the computer was very bad.

I have still not found a cam grinder.  I have been busy restoring my 
TR250, which is now done and looks great.
Larry Young

On 10/6/2012 3:25 PM, Alexandre Camoletti wrote:
> Dear Larry! I am back into my FOT inbox, not read since Feb this year!
> 10-14h per day at work, then workshop (or bed) and week ends 15-20h in the
> shop, so no email time, except for orders etc.
> Now I try to catch up. Hope you are well !
> Regarding the subject of your email below (Oct 15 2011): I plugged in my
> Innovate LM-2 with RPM and other sensors. Works perfectly fine. Had read
> horrible stories about RPM, impossible to read, bouncing all he time, etc.
> I simply used exclusively HQ screened cable (each wire being self screened,
> then the whole cable is screened again ) to feed 12V to the LM2 and same
> cable for the sensors. With soldering, not crimps or split in. And a common
> negative all to bat negative via the screened cable. Such cable is
> expensive, like 5 per yard, but it works just perfectly, RMP is stable and
> accurate within 10rpm, sensors as well and the software LogWorks works fine
> too.
> Did you manage to get your Innovate stuff work with the dyno?
> What about camshafts ? Id' love to get yours for the TR3-4!
> Cheers!
> Alex
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
> part de Larry Young
> Envoyi : samedi 15 octobre 2011 23:59
> @ : FOT
> Cc : Tom Young
> Objet : [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
>
> Does anyone have experience with data acquisition using hardware from
> Innovate Motorsports?
>
> Some friends and I are bringing an old water brake dyno back to life for
> some engine testing. The data acquisition stuff at Innovate Motorsports
> looked good and they could furnish everything we needed.  We bought a
> pressure transducer to get torque (thru force using a hydraulic cylinder), a
> Hall effect sensor to get RPM, and a wide band oxygen sensor for AFR.  These
> are connected through an interface "box" which goes to an RS232 port using
> USB to RS232 cable.
>
> We've had nothing but problems with their system.  We had to return the
> interface box once already to be fixed (which took about 3 weeks).
> After that we were able to get pressure, but it often loses its settings and
> must be reset.  We get RPM a few seconds before it craps out. No AFR.  The
> whole system is flaky.  I am now sending the box and sensors back a second
> time.  I think the interface box still has problems. I can't decide whether
> to give up on them completely. It seems like it shouldn't be this difficult.
>
> Does anyone else have experience with this company? Do you have a different
> company you would recommend? I realize this is a little different from data
> acquisition for racing, since we are going direct to the computer, but
> thought some of you might have a suggestion.
>
> TIA, Larry Young
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ac at camoletti.ch

From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Oct  6 19:47:05 2012
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 11:47:05 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 or Spitfire rear CV axles for sale
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b34Wom=ery8ztc6WXk0mwzagqf7er9Z_NxJ+ug3CFbK3g@mail.gmail.com>

i have a pair of brand new axles with CV's . they came from a front drive
Triumph Toledo I believe. I got them to fit into a GT6 but never used them.
there is also 1 brand new outer drive flange that  has spitfire/GT6 stud
pattern and the inner end of the axle is a taper that matches a rotoflex.
i'm not sure what happened to the other flange

contact me off line if you are interested

thanks, Terry

From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Oct  6 19:58:32 2012
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 11:58:32 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 rotoflex rear hubs with disc & TR6 axle setup
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b346AhOnWgmHFKJ3gbxJ4DQOO8pnXv56NWacM9-QPh6=w@mail.gmail.com>

i have a pair of GT6 MK2 rear hubs that have been modified and have TR6
stub axles fitted with custom bearings. machining etc. They have discs and
alloy calipers fitted (with handbrake). they were made years ago by a local
engineer for a GT6 race car project that never got fininshed.
contact me off forum if interested in buying. i can send pics/more info
thanks, Terry (australia)

From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Oct  8 08:36:50 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 09:36:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS
In-Reply-To: <8CECC2737C79339-105C-18F5@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CECC2737C79339-105C-18F5@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3DF1FA5B59CD41FFBADACFB0343C463D@rileyPC>

I used a system like this with an old valve spring between flat washers
for compliance.  A  hole in the right place allows a clevis pin
to hold it all together and make it quick to disassemble when you
need to remove the trans.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: malaboge at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:17 AM
To: n197tr4 at cs.com ; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS

Fellow motor mounties...

Here's something i did ages ago and have never had a mount go "south"
since...and even if it did, it wouldn't matter much other than the fact that
you'll prolly get some additional vibrations.

Drill two holes down thru the metal plate directly below the existing two
holes for the trans mount.  Make the holes maybe a quarter inch bigger in
diameter than the bolt that holds the trans to the mount.  Now get two new
longer bolts, you'll have to measure the length but its prolly 'bout 3"-4"
long.  Drop the new bolts down thru the trans, mount and lower plate.  Run a
nut up against the bottom of the mount so that the trans is bolted to the
mount as usual.  Now put a large washer or two on the end of the bolt that 
is
stickin out thru the plate.  Use a nylock nut on the end and just tighten it
so that the washers touch the plate.

Now if the mount goes away (yeah like that ever happens) the worst that will
happen is that the bolts will allow the trans to move about an eighth of an
inch or so.  This will even help  save the radiator if that tire wall jumps
out directly in front of you!

mounted in nor cal....
Nick



-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 9, 2012 6:25 am
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS


FOT,
For 20 years we have dealt with various motor mounts at the transmission.
nce we replaced a motor mount at Road America with material available.....a
ine 2 x 4.  We are not sure if that wasnt the best one we had to that point.
Sean got tired of fiddling with substandard mounts and designed his own.  He
ill be installing for use at Road Atlanta.  But I think he will have 1 or 2
ore with him.  It is compatible with the old mount as a direct bolt in
eplacement.
If anyone is interested in seeing it, Sean will show and explain. It is 
heavy
uty, but provides vibration isolation.
He is doing it in SOLIDWORKS for the laser program and has constructed a
mold,
o he can produce more if there is a future interest.
It is likely a lifetime rear mount for race or street.
Any one else interested? Please let me know.

Joe Alexander
. R. E.
45 1st Street
esup, Iowa 50648
19.464.4711  (cell)
197tr4 at cs.com
______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
No virus found in this message.
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From igofaster at att.net  Tue Oct  9 17:26:32 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 16:26:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] I wanna race a GT6... again..
Message-ID: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My lovely collection of GT6's yields two blocks, stock bore, never milled...
Should my new pistons be 010 020 030 or 040 over? 
I thought , if something goes wrong I could re-bore... then I realized , 
sometimes, you don't get the chance to re-bore.... 

so 040 over? 
How do you identify a TR6 versus a GT6 crankshaft? 
Should I be really concerned if one crankshaft or main caps was sourced from 
another block... I mean.... are the crankshaft and block bleeding the same dna? 

It's all re manufactured and fabricated...right... 

Bobby Whitehead

From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Oct  9 18:28:24 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2012 20:28:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I wanna race a GT6... again..
In-Reply-To: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3E169E1E-D977-4D1B-B105-DF0979D34C91@me.com>

you need to get the block line bored if you mix caps and blocks, good idea to do anyway.  Get the crank nitrided by someone who knows what they are doing, and go with 30 over on the pistons so you get one more chance.  If the cylinders don't need to be bored, leave em stock - no prize money in this!
Crank - need photos or something to compare it to.  If they are side by side the difference is obvious.

On Oct 9, 2012, at 7:26 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:

My lovely collection of GT6's yields two blocks, stock bore, never milled...
Should my new pistons be 010 020 030 or 040 over? 
I thought , if something goes wrong I could re-bore... then I realized , 
sometimes, you don't get the chance to re-bore.... 

so 040 over? 
How do you identify a TR6 versus a GT6 crankshaft? 
Should I be really concerned if one crankshaft or main caps was sourced from 
another block... I mean.... are the crankshaft and block bleeding the same dna? 

It's all re manufactured and fabricated...right... 

Bobby Whitehead
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From clw2000 at msn.com  Wed Oct 10 12:13:46 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 14:13:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
Message-ID: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>

I'm (still) in the planning stage of building my GT6 racer and accumulating
parts and advice.  One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
compliance.  There seems to be a huge variance in what, for example, SVRA will
allow versus HSR (these seem to be the two extremes).  And plenty other orgs
in the middle, VDCA, etc.  There are a lot of great products out there that
are not in the '72 SCCA rulebook.  I'm not looking to "cheat" and I'm trying
to stay true to the original car, but I do want the car to be safe and easy to
work on and tune.  It didn't look like too many of the Mitty Triumphs would
get into the SVRA.  So I'm curious as to some of your perspectives.  Build it
"my way" and then find the org that will take me, or build it "their way" and
not have the best car I can build?  I know it's a matter of personal
preferences, but what are your experiences?  Thanks, Chuck

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Oct  8 08:01:35 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 10:01:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: Spitfire beer
Message-ID: <003001cda55d$6dd09460$4971bd20$@net>

I don't like beer, but this one is pretty cool advertising

Craig

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Spitfire.pps]

From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 10 15:49:05 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:

"One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
compliance."

Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too many
other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to share
our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
the car. (baby steps)
Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
info/help you need.
Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
no investment in your project,
but you sure do.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
1969 Triumph GT6+












_______________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Wed Oct 10 16:11:59 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 15:11:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <52A685D7949F4779927E4311542668DB@Bud>

If you are going to race vintage....I recommend that you stay in close touch 
with the eligibility chairman, etc of the sanctioning body that you want 
your car approved for...If you are in doubt about anything...call him for 
advice, and keep a log...
Have fun
Racer Bud..spitfire #21...CSRG
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>
To: "Charles WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
Cc: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>
> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
> compliance."
>
> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too 
> many
> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to 
> share
> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
> the car. (baby steps)
> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
> info/help you need.
> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
> no investment in your project,
> but you sure do.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Oct 10 16:12:43 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:12:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>,
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>

Great letter. Sound all the way. Speaking of sound, you'll love that too.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: clw2000 at msn.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>
> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
> compliance."
>
> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too many
> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to share
> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
> the car. (baby steps)
> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
> info/help you need.
> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
> no investment in your project,
> but you sure do.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Oct 10 20:56:53 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:56:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>

Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2012, at 6:12 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> Great letter. Sound all the way. Speaking of sound, you'll love that too.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
>> From: jason at multivintage.com
>> To: clw2000 at msn.com
>> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
>> compliance."
>>
>> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
>> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too
many
>> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
>> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
>> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
>> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
>> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to
share
>> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
>> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
>> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
>> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
>> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
>> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
>> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
>> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
>> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
>> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
>> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
>> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
>> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
>> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
>> the car. (baby steps)
>> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
>> info/help you need.
>> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
>> no investment in your project,
>> but you sure do.
>>
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> Friendly Ghost Racing
>> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From jaboruch at netzero.com  Wed Oct 10 20:40:35 2012
From: jaboruch at netzero.com (Joe Boruch)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 02:40:35 GMT
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Message-ID: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>

Bud, have you tried another relay?  I had a bad relay on my street TR4 and I
seem to recall that it behaved similarly.  When I ran an OD in my race TR3 I
did not use the relay, just used a heavy duty switch.  One less thing to go
wrong.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
Cc: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/
>> bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net


____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...

From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 10 21:56:29 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:56:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>

 -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hasty
>
>
> "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
> drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
> violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
> fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules."


John,

No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy for
looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season. And
quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems to
be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars with
lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by certain
German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least a limited
access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm not condoning
any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our TRIUMPH FRIENDs that
are developing various modern solutions to help with obvious difficulty in
trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

From tr4.tony at virgin.net  Thu Oct 11 02:33:31 2012
From: tr4.tony at virgin.net (TR4 Tony)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 09:33:31 +0100
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>

You may just have a bad earth to the solenoid via the gearbox itself.

On most the black wire is fastened to the gearbox via a circular bolt
fastening onto one of the top cover bolts. If the cover is sealed using
squeeze on sealant and the earth tab is not connected to the metal then the
solenoid won't work.

Alternatively the spades on he loom might be badly connected.

Usually the big metal 6RA relays are reliable but can get dirty, so pull the
tab overs on the metal cover an lift it off so that you can clean the gunge
out.

Nice job.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On 11 Oct 2012, at 02:40, "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch at netzero.com> wrote:

> Bud, have you tried another relay?  I had a bad relay on my street TR4 and
I
> seem to recall that it behaved similarly.  When I ran an OD in my race TR3
I
> did not use the relay, just used a heavy duty switch.  One less thing to go
> wrong.  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> To: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
> Cc: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
> Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600
>
> When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap
> removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the
> meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.
>
> Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay
> will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the
> high resistance.
>
> Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to
> the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing
> something up?
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:
>
>> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would
>> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the
>> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>>
>> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting
>>> process
>>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all
>>> through
>>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>>> doesn't engage.
>>>
>>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the
>>> solenoid
>>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>>
>>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch
>>> the
>>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>>
>>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage
>>> measured
>>> at 12.75)?
>>>
>>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>>> other?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bud Rolofson
>>>
>>>
>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/
>>> bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Woman is 53 But Looks 25
> Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony at virgin.net

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Oct 11 03:33:16 2012
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 05:33:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
Message-ID: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>

Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail 
after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last 
year.

I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring 
diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 

From tr4.tony at virgin.net  Thu Oct 11 04:50:09 2012
From: tr4.tony at virgin.net (TR4 Tony)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:50:09 +0100
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
	<D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <6D58C46C-71BA-44E5-A17D-8F4C0A44F103@virgin.net>

Durite (Gordon equipment) also supply some very good relays and flasher units
which seem very good in service - I use these on the rally TR4 and no
problems. Same goes for their flasher units.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On 11 Oct 2012, at 10:33, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

> Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail
> after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last
> year.
>
> I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring
> diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony at virgin.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Oct 11 06:44:45 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 08:44:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT SUPPORT - VERY COMPELLING
Message-ID: <8CF75C551E5DEB3-EB4-352C7@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com>

 I am overdue in posting the recent contributors to the FOT FUND....my
apologies and I will catch those up shortly.

But, 'THANKS' to all that have responded to the need to fund expenses for the
2013 KCUP.....

Clearly our group is alive and well and functioning quite nicely without the
formalities of an "ORGANIZATION".

Much credit goes to various sponsors in the past, but the ELKHART LAKE VINTAGE
FESTIVAL is not an event like THE MITTY and the sanctioning body, the VSCDA,
is a non-profit organization.

The ELVF at Road America is a dream event for our organization, but it
requires some self determination on our part. Clearly, we have a lot of "self
determination".  THANKS!





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Oct 11 12:34:49 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 18:34:49 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl><CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com><SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl><457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com><624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>

We of course were never allowed anything but the stock box with the alternate
ratios.  We did not have very much trouble with he box.  I think primarily
because all the parts in the car and from the parts department were new
FACTORY pieces. I think the clubs should allow  the five speed .  It is silly
to see people spend so much money and lost track time when ancient pieces.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Subject: RE: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 06:43:53 -0500
> From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com
> To: jason at multivintage.com; jhhasty at gdhs.com; kaskas at cox.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>
> << Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions,  >>
>
> And, in the case of GT6s, yes I definitely include 5-speed
> transmissions.  One argument frequently made in the cause of originality
> and fairness is that the stock parts wouldn't have such failure problems
> if we didn't use cheater parts to build engines that produce far more
> horsepower than was available "back in the day".  However, even in my
> very mildly-tuned STREET GT6 Which I used to use for 5 or 6 track days a
> year, I went through three transmissions in two years.  I very quickly
> decided that a nice Toyota 5-speed conversion was a good idea, rules or
> no rules.  The ratios are very close to the same, including the 5th gear
> which is the same is the as the stock overdrive ratio.  Kas, I can't
> imagine how you kept the transmissions together back in the day.  Did
> you just rebuild them between every race?
>
> Scott B.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Jason Ostrowski
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:56 PM
> To: John Hasty; Kas Kastner
> Cc: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Hasty
> >
> >
> > "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers,
> > slotted & drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims
> > as regulation violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type
>
> > transgressions are fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond
> the sprit of the rules."
>
>
> John,
>
> No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
> WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
> Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy
> for looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season.
> And quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
> equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems
> to be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
> sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
> different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
> Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
> I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
> Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars
> with lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by
> certain German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least
> a limited access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm
> not condoning any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our
> TRIUMPH FRIENDs that are developing various modern solutions to help
> with obvious difficulty in trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com

From cartravel at pobox.com  Thu Oct 11 12:51:47 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:51:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
	<D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <50771543.5040605@pobox.com>

I used a very simple wiring scheme on my TR3 which allowed overdrive in 
all but reverse.  I used a commodity Bosch relay.  The shipping cost 
more than the relay.  You can find a diagram at:
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/247150-OD-in-every-gear#254262
I think Tony Drews may have it at his website too.
Larry

On 10/11/2012 4:33 AM, yellow04 at tr4racer.com wrote:
> Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail
> after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last
> year.
>
> I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring
> diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com

From billdentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:36:22 2012
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:36:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7628BD12AFD8-CE0-35D2F@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

Good for you, John.  This is, after all, VINTAGE racing.

Bill Dentinger



-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2012 5:36 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
rilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
iolations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
ine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules.
Sent from my iPhone

From billdentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:40:06 2012
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:40:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...
Message-ID: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv8rFPLN_Fg

Not the sports car, but British, related, and some GOOD stuff.

Bill Dentinger

From tlizzard at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 05:26:13 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 07:26:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds6F2A5D2FE0EEDB0FEB2FBC38C0@phx.gbl>

Thanks Bill...

Aircraft of WW2 are one of my passions.

Most of that footage is late war BTW.

Still a cool find.


Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: billdentin at aol.com<mailto:billdentin at aol.com>
  To: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 8:40 PM
  Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...


  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv8rFPLN_Fg<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z
v8rFPLN_Fg>

  Not the sports car, but British, related, and some GOOD stuff.

  Bill Dentinger
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
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  Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>

From sjanzen at me.com  Fri Oct 12 08:18:11 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 10:18:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>

Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the area?  Russ?

Sent from my mobile device 

From igofaster at att.net  Fri Oct 12 09:23:07 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
Message-ID: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And, when 
you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to be at 
speed in these cars.
The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've really 
hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you and 
your car is toxic.
Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought. 
Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as 
sanctioning rules.
Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes for 
example.
Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of variance 
to vintage spirit. 

I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third rebuild 
in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas. The 
car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I 
presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put a 
Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum 
Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was warrantied 
with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J type 
overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum with 
exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England... in 
the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in 
receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you 
wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going to 
run the T50.... no problem.
I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and their 
sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going to 
continue to run.
Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper 
pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability efforts... 
the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who are 
not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business 
format... IMHO....

Bobby Whitehead

on the hunt... again.....

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Oct 12 09:52:48 2012
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 11:52:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
Message-ID: <7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 09:58:21 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:58:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>

I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in this
fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a consistent
proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the days of
people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we don't
want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.

When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in the
hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some very
celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage racing
turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed into the
hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious events. When
is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at a club level
event?

Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity of
cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm in
favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow cars to
have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal less
expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were leading
edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I stepped on my
brakes they did something.

I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it is,
but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You can
buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 10:12:06 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:12:06 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <002601cda894$54cd2890$fe6779b0$@com>

Maybe a TR3/4 is more gifted than other cars but you can make a very fast
car with using the enhanced stock stuff sold by retailers.
140 HP at the wheels is no problem and the stock brakes are outperforming
many others.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 17:58
An: Bobby Whitehead
Cc: FoT Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in
this fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a
consistent proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the
days of people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we
don't want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.

When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in
the hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some
very celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage
racing turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed
into the hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious
events. When is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at
a club level event?

Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity
of cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm
in favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow
cars to have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal
less expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were
leading edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I
stepped on my brakes they did something.

I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it is,
but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You
can buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars.
> And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the
> opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection
> between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far
> as sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern
> gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my
> third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run
vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in
Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the
> way I presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea
> I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree,
> Quantum Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends...
> I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a
> modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by
> Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000
> in receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run
> like you wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a
> customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes
> and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
> going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four
> caliper pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or
> reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those
> who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any
> business format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 10:20:45 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:20:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
In-Reply-To: <7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
Message-ID: <005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From mmoore at wave1.net  Fri Oct 12 10:22:47 2012
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:22:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
In-Reply-To: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
Message-ID: <009601cda895$d1a705b0$74f51110$@net>

I have a spare one you could use, but I am in Erie PA about 3 1/2 hours
away. Maybe somebody is passing by on their way up there and I could meet
them on highway

Thanks
Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
Fax:        814-864-7383


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
area?  Russ?

Sent from my mobile device 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore at wave1.net

From rikrock at live.com  Fri Oct 12 10:42:38 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:42:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <DUB401-EAS216F963F3F0D5301AEBFDA9C68C0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to Russ we should end up okay.  I had to drill out what remained of the
broken stud, but that went well, so we'll be heading over to see Russ this
afternoon.

What a great group of people!!

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: Spitfire Racing
Sent: 10/12/2012 12:24 PM
To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 12 11:10:44 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:10:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>

Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Oct 12 11:34:04 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:34:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CF76B6E8DA1319-1DD4-399B1@webmail-d004.sysops.aol.com>

 Back in the 90s I removed and replaced Ed Ceilley's GT6 gearbox three times
while at Moroso and Sebring in two weekends of racing.

Twice it was in the rain and three inches of water on the ground.

I would vote for 'GEAR BOXES FREE', especially with GT6s

We seem to be doing quite well with our TR3/4 TRANSMISSIONS, or I would
consider one of the Toyota conversions.

If there were any restrictions placed on a major component, among ourselves, I
would make the engine conform to the old rules. But that is not likely to
happen....and I am OK with that. (I think ours does conform and that's largely
an economic decision)



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 12, 2012 12:11 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph


Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance
advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between
you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm
going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Oct 12 11:55:14 2012
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:55:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>

Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are 
considered. 




> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6 
> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph 
> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and 
> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution 
> all round.
>  
> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
> 

</HTML>

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 12:04:20 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:04:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
Message-ID: <7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>

Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
issue.... 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 1:55 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com; vangoughv at hotmail.com; igofaster at att.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are
considered. 




> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6 
> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph

> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and

> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution 
> all round.
>  
> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
> 

</HTML>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 12 12:47:01 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:47:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>

Ya SVRA is smart.  Even though I'm with VARAC in Canada I built and registered
my GT6 to SVRA rules for that very reason since my own club had no such
addenda but allows SVRA cars to register and run.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
> issue....
>
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of N197TR4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 1:55 PM
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com; vangoughv at hotmail.com; igofaster at att.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are
> considered.
>
>
>
>
>> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6
>> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph
>
>> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and
>
>> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution
>> all round.
>>
>> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
>>
>
> </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Oct 12 12:54:49 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>

> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>> issue....


Like the song says: "same as it ever was".

When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your 
advantage. ;-)

In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate 
gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God 
knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly 
NO advantage other than reliability.

Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created 
(about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I 
wonder why?

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Oct 12 13:48:50 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 19:48:50 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>,
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>,
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>

That is not quite true.  The Toyota pickup and the Celica offer at least 4
alternate ratios for 5th gear, not so with the overdrive. But so what,
compared to missing a guy on the grid for not a good enough reason.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>
> > On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
> >> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
stock
> >> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
> >> issue....
>
>
> Like the song says: "same as it ever was".
>
> When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
> advantage. ;-)
>
> In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
> gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
> knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
> NO advantage other than reliability.
>
> Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
> (about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
> wonder why?
>
> c ya,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 14:30:01 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:30:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>,
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>,
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
	<SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FD59D259-3EAD-4909-8C11-2A5936C65008@bnj.com>

I don't quite get the "scared of the competition" line. Probably because I've
never really cared about competitors. The guy I want to beat is me--the last
time I raced. But my notions aside, I've always considered the core of racing
to be aiming for an unfair advantage. I think if you're not doing that you're
not racing, or maybe you're doing some odd spec racer version of it. Even in
spec racing there's guys who buy lots of tires, and those that don't.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 12:48 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> That is not quite true.  The Toyota pickup and the Celica offer at least 4
> alternate ratios for 5th gear, not so with the overdrive. But so what,
> compared to missing a guy on the grid for not a good enough reason.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>>> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>>>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
> stock
>>>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>>>> issue....
>>
>>
>> Like the song says: "same as it ever was".
>>
>> When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
>> advantage. ;-)
>>
>> In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
>> gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
>> knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
>> NO advantage other than reliability.
>>
>> Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
>> (about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
>> wonder why?
>>
>> c ya,
>> rml
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 14:48:46 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 16:48:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee 
arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any 
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should 
fit in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in 
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I 
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not sure 
what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars 
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.

From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 14:58:30 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:58:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>

Most of the Jaguar automatics I have experience with are hideous. I think they
were originally Borg-Warner. Had one in a 420 I owned briefly that I sold as a
parts car. Adapting a modern five or six speed automatic would not be all that
tough and could be VERY cool. If I were going to do it I'd get Tony Garmey to
do the fabrication.

No, it won't fit in the TR3 case. Does ANYONE really use TR3 transmissions? If
they do I have three or four they can have. I consider them useless.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 1:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mlcooknj at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 15:00:20 2012
From: mlcooknj at msn.com (michael cook)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:00:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY147-W43D1E20DB3EFEAA249753EC88C0@phx.gbl>

>From the internet: Hobbs, Howard Frederick (19021982)by G. H. Brooks	Howard
Frederick Hobbs (1902-1982), inventor, was born on 21 September 1902 at East
Marden, Adelaide, fifth of six surviving children of South Australian-born
parents James Harris Hobbs, fruit-grower, and his wife Mary Eliza, nie Pitt.
Educated at Prince Alfred College, as a boy Howard showed an aptitude for
things mechanical. At 14 he built a full-size aeroplane (without wings) that
was taxied around the familys garden, powered by a motorcycle engine. On
leaving school he worked at his fathers orchard and market garden at
Paradise. He married Phyllis Dorothy Reid, a schoolteacher, at Payneham
Methodist Church on 12 May 1925. Next year he applied for his first patent, an
improved appliance for the grading of fruit. 	Driving motorcars and lorries
from an early age, Hobbs cherished an ambition to eliminate the need for gear
changing. After many experiments he had a light car fitted with the `Hobbs
gearless drive ready for testing; Professors (Sir) Robert Chapman and (Sir)
Kerr Grant of the University of Adelaide found it satisfactory and simple to
operate. Hobbs Gearless Drive Ltd was formed in 1931 to market the device and
to administer the patent rights. In June 1931 Hobbs, with his wife and
daughter, sailed for Britain, where he also took out patents. For the next
thirty-five years the family were to live at Leamington Spa, Warwickshire; two
sons were born. Hobbs was unable to persuade car manufacturers to use the
`gearless drive: based on rotating weights, it incorporated a free-wheel
clutch, or ratchet, which was probably the weakness in the device. Other
inventors with similar ideas also failed to attract interest in their
mechanisms. 	After engaging in war work, in 1946 Hobbs was helped by a wealthy
industrialist to form Hobbs Transmission Ltd. He discarded the gearless drive
and developed the `Mechamatic transmission. The new automatic gearbox was
more complicated, with epicyclic gears and hydraulically operated friction
clutches. Mechamatic, with four forward gears, unusual at that time, was
lightweight and suitable for small cars. Many well-known makers built
prototypes but the only one to reach production was the Lanchester Sprite,
produced in 1955 by the Birmingham Small Arms Co. Ltd. For financial reasons
BSA soon abandoned the project. 	Westinghouse Brake & Signal Co. Ltd bought
BSAs shares in Hobbs Transmission and, anticipating its use in the Ford
Cortina, built a factory at Manchester to manufacture the Mechamatic. When
Ford decided not to proceed, Hobbs Transmission went into liquidation. In the
1960s Hobbss son David successfully drove a Lotus Elite fitted with the
Mechamatic gearbox in international motor races. The family moved to Napton,
near Rugby, about 1965 and Hobbs and his son John set up a workshop. They went
back to the original concept of the infinitely variable drive, but this time
hydraulic, not mechanical. Hobbs took out an Australian patent in the name of
Variable Kinetic Drives Ltd, but like its predecessors this also failed
commercially. In 1977 Hobbs was invited to participate in the British Genius
Exhibition at Battersea.
 > From: BillDentin at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 16:48:46 -0400
> To: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mlcooknj at msn.com

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct 12 15:06:49 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:06:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <et2v9u3vksvvrkq3x4fn2ygh.1350076009452@email.android.com>

ISTR that some of Jim Hall's Chaparals had 2 speed powerglide transmissions.

One of the DTSC members has recently converted a TR4 to automatic. Not a race car, but...

Cheers,

Doug
--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

>Amici...
>
>With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee 
>arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any 
>options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should 
>fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
>Bill (Damdinger)
>
>PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in 
>Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I 
>understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not sure 
>what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars 
>Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:07:54 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:07:54 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>

I can shift my dogbox without clutch.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee arthritis
issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should fit
in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:10:49 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:10:49 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did they
build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50% of the
time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 12 15:11:49 2012
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 15:11:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <0903181D-21C0-4EE8-AC96-5188C76DE210@yahoo.com>

Is a dog box allowed by the sanctioning body?  Just kidding!

Ty

Sent from my iPhone

'63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
'62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
++++


On Oct 12, 2012, at 3:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com

From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 15:29:49 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:29:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <8698.14477805.3da9e5cc@aol.com>

Mike...

WOW!  Interesting dossier on David Hobbs' Dad.  

Incidentally, David Hobbs now owns a Honda dealership in Glendale, 
Wisconsin (Milwaukee suburb), and at a cocktail party there one time the VSCDA 
brought a bunch of vintage sports cars to be on display in the shop (which 
actually got scrubbed clean for the event).  Anyway I brought our Tornado Thunder 
Bolt and David Hobbs got all excited.  He brought a picture down from his 
office of that Lotus referred to in the article and the Thunder Bolt racing 
over in England.  I asked him if the Thunder Bolt was getting ready to lap him 
in the picture.  He did not think that was very funny and promised to tell 
me some time just how ill-mannered the Thunder Bolt was when it was first 
built.  I see David at Road America from time to time, but still have not 
heard the rest of the story.  I hope to someday because David Hobbs is a Hell of 
a story teller.  When he and Brian Redman get together you are guaranteed 
to split a gut laughing.

Bill Dentinger

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:38:19 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:38:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>

I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
Straight cut also. Almost stock.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
An: MadMarx
Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did
they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50%
of the time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:43:14 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:43:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>

Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
An: MadMarx
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:

> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
> clutch 50% of the time.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>> Amici...
>>
>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>
>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>
>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 16:24:57 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:24:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>

amen to that



On 10/12/12 11:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And, when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas. The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England... in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From billb at bnj.com  Fri Oct 12 16:33:09 2012
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 15:33:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
Message-ID: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>

That's my story too. It's almost stock. Ignore that straight cut gear howl.
They were all like that.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:43 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
> An: MadMarx
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:
>
>> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
>> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
>> An: MadMarx
>> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
>> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
>> clutch 50% of the time.
>>
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>>
>>> Amici...
>>>
>>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>>
>>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>>
>>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
>> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From clw2000 at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 16:57:10 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:57:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS  GT6 REBUILD
In-Reply-To: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>,
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>,
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>,
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>,
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>,
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>,
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W49B52F4FBF75DE8CFAA17FBF8C0@phx.gbl>

I think I started all this muckracking, so a question to help me out based on
what I'm hearing:

"Facts"
- The GT6 trans was good when new, but really unreliable now after 40 years
- Suitable alternatives are TR 3/4/6, T9 or various Toyota
- I have a typical spec GT6 4-spd with overdrive

Questions:
- Am I better off swapping the base unit out during the build or giving it a
chance?
- Is OD of any use?
- From my read of regs, a five speed is allowed as an alternative when
replacing a 4spd OD unit, as long as 5th gear is < a 1.1 ratio.  If so, what's
my best option?




Thanks,

Chuck Watson

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:50:11 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <606EFA2A-B3D7-440F-8872-A998D1E20788@gdhs.com>

By God Bill there's the answer. Autos shucks it worked for Lance  why not for
us ?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:50:57 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:50:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
References: <6F32FDCE-4E5C-4B1B-BE77-A3FB9ABB532B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <8F390423-2B7A-495B-9190-9D7D6F8CD06C@gdhs.com>

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Date: October 12, 2012 8:46:09 PM EDT
> To: "Snowdonracing at aol.com" <Snowdonracing at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
>
> Thanks Ray. I know that is what the  G3 rules say; but the special rules for
TR3's states original transmissions. So the rules say one thing under G3 and
another under TR3-4.  How are we to know which one is correct?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Hi John,
>>
>>     Thanks for the note and sorry you are having issues.  There is a
substitution rule in the Group 3 Supplementals already.  It states:
>> "Standard gearbox may be replaced with an alternate PRODUCTION BASED
GEARBOX of the same number of forward speeds.  ADD 75LBS. TO OFFICIAL WEIGHT.
When replacing a 4-speed w/overdrive unit with a 5-speed, the 5th gear must be
lower numerically than 1 : 1."
>> If a non-standard gearbox is being used, it must be declared on the RCIS
sheet for the vehicle.
>> Your Triumph, TR3, lists a 4-speed with Laycock overdrive optional.  That
means 5 forward speeds.
>> So, the rules are already there.  Cars that were never equipped with
overdrive, or as an option, must continue to keep their original number of
forward speeds.
>> The number of forward speeds is something that we will be checking on for
2013 as we step up on rules enforcement.
>> I hope this answers your questions.
>> Ray
>>
>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 1:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>> Ray:
>>     As our Triumphs, MGs, Morgans, Elvas etc. get even older than they
>> already are, a number of us are having transmission problems with the
>> original gear boxes which are causing frequent costly repairs and I
>> understand that MGs are also having source problems as well.  While I
>> understand the spirit of the rules and try to keep my TR within them,
>> reliability and the cost of fixing old "stuff" is becoming a problem which
>> may well keep some of us from participating in as many events as we might
>> otherwise like.  For instance I just spent $730 to go through my TR box
and
>> after the Gold Cup, it feels like it needs it again.  It may well be time
to
>> consider, in the interest of safety and reliability, allowing these cars
to
>> use the readily available GM and Toyota 5 speed transmission conversions.
I
>> note also, that 4 speeds vs. 5 speeds is not a problem in as much as these
>> old English cars had overdrive units available which, like my car, give
you
>> an effective 5 speed unit.
>>     I would also note that there are already some cars using these
>> conversions and there should be a "level playing field" approach
considered
>> as well.  Please give some thought to this with your Tech staff .  I look
>> forward to your response....
>>
>> John H. Hasty  SVRA # 8326
>> Attorney At Law
>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>> 719 East Boulevard
>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>> www.gdhs.com
>>
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>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
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>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
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>> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
>> addressed herein.

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:56:17 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <548262A1-EE32-4638-9856-A000657550DA@gdhs.com>

Being near  Alsace I expect they are French Poodles

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Bill Babcock <billb at bnj.com> wrote:

> That's my story too. It's almost stock. Ignore that straight cut gear howl.
> They were all like that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:43 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)
>> 
>> 
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
>> An: MadMarx
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>> 
>> What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:
>> 
>>> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
>>> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>>> 
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
>>> An: MadMarx
>>> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>> 
>>> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
>>> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
>>> clutch 50% of the time.
>>> 
>>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>>>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>>>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>>> 
>>>> Amici...
>>>> 
>>>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>>>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>>>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>>>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>>> 
>>>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>>> 
>>>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>>>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>>>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>>>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>>>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
>>> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:58:36 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:58:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <D592CFCC-41E2-4731-860F-0367AC8073A6@gdhs.com>

Gee, in still use a 3 close ratio with A  O D

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:58 PM, Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote:

> Most of the Jaguar automatics I have experience with are hideous. I think
they
> were originally Borg-Warner. Had one in a 420 I owned briefly that I sold as
a
> parts car. Adapting a modern five or six speed automatic would not be all
that
> tough and could be VERY cool. If I were going to do it I'd get Tony Garmey
to
> do the fabrication.
>
> No, it won't fit in the TR3 case. Does ANYONE really use TR3 transmissions?
If
> they do I have three or four they can have. I consider them useless.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 1:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Amici...
>>
>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
> know of any
>> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
>> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>
>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>
>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
>> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
>> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure
>> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
>> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From sjanzen at me.com  Fri Oct 12 20:33:21 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 22:33:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>

My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff.

Sent from my mobile device 

On Oct 11, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> We of course were never allowed anything but the stock box with the alternate
> ratios.  We did not have very much trouble with he box.  I think primarily
> because all the parts in the car and from the parts department were new
> FACTORY pieces. I think the clubs should allow  the five speed .  It is silly
> to see people spend so much money and lost track time when ancient pieces.
> 
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Subject: RE: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 06:43:53 -0500
>> From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com
>> To: jason at multivintage.com; jhhasty at gdhs.com; kaskas at cox.net
>> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> << Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions,  >>
>> 
>> And, in the case of GT6s, yes I definitely include 5-speed
>> transmissions.  One argument frequently made in the cause of originality
>> and fairness is that the stock parts wouldn't have such failure problems
>> if we didn't use cheater parts to build engines that produce far more
>> horsepower than was available "back in the day".  However, even in my
>> very mildly-tuned STREET GT6 Which I used to use for 5 or 6 track days a
>> year, I went through three transmissions in two years.  I very quickly
>> decided that a nice Toyota 5-speed conversion was a good idea, rules or
>> no rules.  The ratios are very close to the same, including the 5th gear
>> which is the same is the as the stock overdrive ratio.  Kas, I can't
>> imagine how you kept the transmissions together back in the day.  Did
>> you just rebuild them between every race?
>> 
>> Scott B.
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Jason Ostrowski
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:56 PM
>> To: John Hasty; Kas Kastner
>> Cc: fot
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: John Hasty
>>> 
>>> 
>>> "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers,
>>> slotted & drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims
>>> as regulation violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type
>> 
>>> transgressions are fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond
>> the sprit of the rules."
>> 
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
>> WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
>> Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy
>> for looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season.
>> And quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
>> equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems
>> to be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
>> sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
>> different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
>> Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
>> I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
>> Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars
>> with lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by
>> certain German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least
>> a limited access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm
>> not condoning any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our
>> TRIUMPH FRIENDs that are developing various modern solutions to help
>> with obvious difficulty in trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.
>> 
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> Friendly Ghost Racing
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
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> _______________________________________________
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> 
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> 
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct 12 20:32:42 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:32:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <0903181D-21C0-4EE8-AC96-5188C76DE210@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1350095922.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

If I could afford one I wouldn't care.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Yahoo
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 3:12 PM
To: MadMarx
Cc: <ponobill at gmail.com>; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Is a dog box allowed by the sanctioning body?  Just kidding!

Ty

Sent from my iPhone

'63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
'62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
++++


On Oct 12, 2012, at 3:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 06:15:05 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 08:15:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>

OUCH!!!

It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!

Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.

Russ

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 13 06:48:26 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 08:48:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>

Wow. I'm 300 miles north and it's about the same temp

Have a great time gents!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-13, at 8:16 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> OUCH!!!
>
> It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
> much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
> afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
> temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
> with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!
>
> Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.
>
> Russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
> To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
> I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
> minutes from the Glen.
> Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail
storms
> and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.
>
> Russ Moore
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bill Tobin
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
> To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
> Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
> I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
> Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
>
>> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
>> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
>> area?  Russ?
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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From REK46 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 07:33:39 2012
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:33:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Wheel balancer
Message-ID: <20260.1b67d7ac.3daac7b3@aol.com>

____________________________________
 From: REK46 at aol.com
To: spitlist at cox.net
Sent: 10/13/2012 9:31:48 A.M.  Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: Wheel balancer


I inherited a nice wheel balancer from an old friend..Its a  
Micro-Precision ,model M-60...supposedly same as ones sold as Coats  Co....BUT,one problem 
with it, the bubble is enlarged to almost the size  of the window(supposed 
to be small for centering in the dial)...the part is  #106843 Bubble Cap 
Assembly...Apparenly these are obsolete in production. Does  anyone know if the 
bubble cap can be repaired and renewed to proper standards  and by 
whom?..Or does anyone have an old unit that they might donate/sell me  the cap. 
Really hate to scrap the whole thing,plus the sentimental value...Any  help 
would be  appreciated....Rick

From jkhagen at charter.net  Sat Oct 13 08:28:00 2012
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 10:28:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
Message-ID: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>

Friends,  If you upgrade everything that could fail-it would not be 
vintage let alone the spirit of vintage racing.  John Hagen


On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Vince G wrote:

> Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
> Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is 
> the
> same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance 
> advantage,
> it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in 
> the day
> to for reliability and safety.
>
> Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend 
> early due
> to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even 
> showing me
> up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could 
> have
> been prevented.
>
> IMHO
>
> Vince Garrett
> #144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)
>
> Have a great weekend everyone!
>
>
> On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> 
> wrote:
>
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. 
>> And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the 
>> opportunity to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and 
>> you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection 
>> between you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far 
>> as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern 
>> gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought 
>> of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>>
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my 
>> third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run 
>> vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
>> Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the 
>> way I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I 
>> would put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, 
>> Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a 
>> modified J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by 
>> Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from 
>> England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about 
>> $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run 
>> like you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, 
>> I'm going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes 
>> and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars 
>> are going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four 
>> caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... 
>> those who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any 
>> business
>> format... IMHO....
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
>>
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Oct 13 08:53:54 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:53:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.2.1350139842.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

Isn't it a bit early in the fall for the annual "what is vintage?" 
discussion?  Normally we wait until like December or January when 
everyone's testy from the cold weather.  :)

Tony Drews

From REK46 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 09:07:39 2012
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:07:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Wheel balancer help
Message-ID: <5d14.59de8aa1.3daaddba@aol.com>

I inherited a nice wheel balancer from an old friend..Its a Micro-Precision 
 ,model M-60...supposedly same as ones sold as Coats Co....BUT,one problem 
with  it, the bubble is enlarged to almost the size of the window(supposed 
to be small  for centering in the dial)...the part is #106843 Bubble Cap 
Assembly...Apparenly  these are obsolete in production. Does anyone know if the 
bubble cap can be  repaired and renewed to proper standards and by whom?..Or 
does anyone have an  old unit that they might donate/sell me the cap. 
Really hate to scrap the whole  thing,plus the sentimental value...Any help would 
be  appreciated....Rick

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Sat Oct 13 09:12:18 2012
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:12:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR2 - TR6 Triumph gearboxes
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl><CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com><SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl><457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com><624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry><CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com><SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
	<CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>
Message-ID: <FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>

You small chassis Triumph racers, this probably does not apply to you...

Keep in mind a properly prepared Triumph gearbox that is used with a 
reasonable amount of care will last a long time. The recipe to get a box to 
shift right in race conditions and last many weekends is extraordinarly 
simple, build it to the bottom end of the clearance specs in the book. You 
either have to build the gearbox yourself, or insist your rebuilder take the 
time required to set every clearance as tight as the spec allows.

Most importantly, remember when on track what you are not driving a modern 
gearbox. Show it a little sympathy,  it will last.

Or, spend the bucks on the T5 conversion. I don't care, it means more TR 
gearbox bits available for me!

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


> My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially 
> compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for 
> adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff. 

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 13 09:48:04 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:48:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR2 - TR6 Triumph gearboxes
In-Reply-To: <FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
	<CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>
	<FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1052E86004EBA49EA7B5F3FB2730@phx.gbl>

I will be rebuilding my gearbox so thank you for this advice....

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-13, at 11:12 AM, yellow04 at tr4racer.com wrote:

> You small chassis Triumph racers, this probably does not apply to you...
>
> Keep in mind a properly prepared Triumph gearbox that is used with a
> reasonable amount of care will last a long time. The recipe to get a box to
> shift right in race conditions and last many weekends is extraordinarly
> simple, build it to the bottom end of the clearance specs in the book. You
> either have to build the gearbox yourself, or insist your rebuilder take the
> time required to set every clearance as tight as the spec allows.
>
> Most importantly, remember when on track what you are not driving a modern
> gearbox. Show it a little sympathy,  it will last.
>
> Or, spend the bucks on the T5 conversion. I don't care, it means more TR
> gearbox bits available for me!
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
>
>> My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially
>> compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for
>> adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Oct 12 10:28:05 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 09:28:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <B6BCCF8E677C4D7788DEA13D3A8BFA90@Bud>

The quote that someone made..."If you want to race these cars you have to 
love these cars" rings very true to me..Loving my race car, even if I cannot 
use it for a while is part of the wonderful process of being involved with 
our terrific sport..When the car breaks..that too is part of the 
process..These cars..be they loaded with racing history or built from a 
street Triumph are an indication of  passion..For instance..How FOT is so 
great at helping new racers..The comradry is beautiful
We are lucky people!
Racer Bud Spitfire #21

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: "FoT Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph


> I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in 
> this
> fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a 
> consistent
> proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the days of
> people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we don't
> want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.
>
> When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in 
> the
> hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some 
> very
> celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage racing
> turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed into 
> the
> hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious events. 
> When
> is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at a club 
> level
> event?
>
> Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity 
> of
> cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm 
> in
> favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow 
> cars to
> have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal less
> expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were 
> leading
> edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I stepped on 
> my
> brakes they did something.
>
> I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it 
> is,
> but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You 
> can
> buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
>
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity 
>> to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between 
>> you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>>
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run 
>> vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
>> Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way 
>> I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would 
>> put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified 
>> J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from 
>> England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like 
>> you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm 
>> going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are 
>> going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those 
>> who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any 
>> business
>> format... IMHO....
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
>>
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 11:50:49 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:50:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <32347.375ca8d7.3da9b278@aol.com>

15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6  
box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new  box was a Triumph 
piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I  declared it to my club and 
they were happy to see me on the grid and on the  podium.  A good solution 
all round.
 
I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
 
 
In a message dated 10/12/2012 10:42:13 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:

Back in  the 90s I removed and replaced Ed Ceilley's GT6 gearbox three times
while  at Moroso and Sebring in two weekends of racing.

Twice it was in the  rain and three inches of water on the ground.

I would vote for 'GEAR  BOXES FREE', especially with GT6s

We seem to be doing quite well with  our TR3/4 TRANSMISSIONS, or I would
consider one of the Toyota  conversions.

If there were any restrictions placed on a major  component, among 
ourselves, I
would make the engine conform to the old  rules. But that is not likely to
happen....and I am OK with that. (I think  ours does conform and that's 
largely
an economic  decision)



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup,  Iowa 50648
319.464.4711   (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original  Message-----
From: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: Bobby  Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 12, 2012 12:11 pm
Subject: Re:  [Fot] Racing a Triumph


Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im  through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same  ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a  performance
advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the  axles on the gt6 in the 
day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we  all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early 
due
to  mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing  
me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could  have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+  (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at  11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I  think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars.  And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love  the opportunity 
to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir  that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
>  hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection  between
you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the  spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the  #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning  rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern  gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last  modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage  spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and  as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of  what it takes to try to run 
vintage...
> Personally I had my build  booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
Texas.
The
> car I  purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way 
I
>  presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would  
put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us  agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2  weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was  awesome another gearbox with a modified 
J
type
> overdrive which also  lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange  I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set  from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car  and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,,  you know,,, I tried to run like 
you
> wanted me to but if you want to to  run consistently as a customer, I'm
going
to
> run the T50.... no  problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old  gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to  change if these cars are
going
to
> continue to run.
>  Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four  caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or  reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at  the end of the day... those 
who
are
> not flexible in business  willing to modify will not survive in any 
business
> format...  IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt...  again.....
> _______________________________________________
>  fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:13:15 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:13:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <1350155595.55678.YahooMailRC@web182202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

that's another can of worms... but , really , if a Spridget guy wants to spend 
$6000 for a dogbox set of gears, it is still a reliability issue, with some 
potential for a gain in speed....
just no 'cruise control' , that's where I would draw the line....

great discussions on the thread btw..... thanks to you friends of Triumph!

Bobby




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, October 12, 2012 4:08:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS

I can shift my dogbox without clutch.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee arthritis
issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should fit
in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
_______________________________________________
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:17:58 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:17:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <1350155878.87341.YahooMailRC@web182204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" .... broke....

Bobby




________________________________
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, October 12, 2012 4:18:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did they
build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50% of the
time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 13 13:27:34 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:27:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>

Good grief the VDCA Dec race at Savannah is usually in the 60's or mid 50's.
19 is out of the question for me.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 13, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Wow. I'm 300 miles north and it's about the same temp
>
> Have a great time gents!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-10-13, at 8:16 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
>> OUCH!!!
>>
>> It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
>> much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
>> afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
>> temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
>> with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!
>>
>> Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.
>>
>> Russ
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
>> To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>> I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only
40
>> minutes from the Glen.
>> Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail
> storms
>> and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.
>>
>> Russ Moore
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Bill Tobin
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
>> To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>> Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
>> I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
>> Bill
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>> To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
>> Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>>
>>> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
>>> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
>>> area?  Russ?
>>>
>>> Sent from my mobile device
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
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>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:40:07 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:40:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1350157207.21617.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

yes, but if you upgrade something that fails all the time you CAN participate... 
no fun driving 1000 miles each way and loading up your pride and joy the FIRST 
day... it happens ....




________________________________
From: "jkhagen at charter.net" <jkhagen at charter.net>
To: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
Cc: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>; FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, October 13, 2012 9:28:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

Friends,  If you upgrade everything that could fail-it would not be vintage let 
alone the spirit of vintage racing.  John Hagen


On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Vince G wrote:

> Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
> Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
> same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance advantage,
> it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
> to for reliability and safety.
> 
> Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
> to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
> up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
> been prevented.
> 
> IMHO
> 
> Vince Garrett
> #144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone!
> 
> 
> On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
> 
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>> 
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
>> format... IMHO....
>> 
>> Bobby Whitehead
>> 
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 13:46:20 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 21:46:20 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE

From jason at multivintage.com  Sat Oct 13 14:01:40 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:01:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>

A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
C. Whoops.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 14:22:03 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 22:22:03 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002801cda980$69dc84a0$3d958de0$@com>

I had a look on the engine.

The 4th cylinder doesnt move anymore.

Doesnt look too good in this case.





Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
An: MadMarx
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....



A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.

B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.

C. Whoops.



Jason Ostrowski

Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 15:19:10 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 23:19:10 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <5079d9fb.e1cb440a.0c4a.69faSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<002801cda980$69dc84a0$3d958de0$@com>
	<5079d9fb.e1cb440a.0c4a.69faSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <003f01cda988$64925350$2db6f9f0$@com>

It seems the piston deck cracked off as I can push down the piston and the
crank rotation pushes it up again.
And I see a few drips of water....so maybe the head was smashed by that.
I'll see.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 23:15
An: MadMarx
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....

Ouch.

Tony

At 03:22 PM 10/13/2012, you wrote:
>I had a look on the engine.
>
>The 4th cylinder doesnt move anymore.
>
>Doesnt look too good in this case.
>
>
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat Oct 13 18:26:27 2012
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 20:26:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS  GT6 REBUILD
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>,
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>,
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>,
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>,
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>,
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>,
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
	<BLU154-W49B52F4FBF75DE8CFAA17FBF8C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2735DF1371B448EBA3B33440456125D1@hpd530>

Just got back from the Glen; pretty nippy but nice.

re: transmissions: SVRA's  Jack Whoerle (sp) told us a couple years ago that 
because OD's were used in the day, we can use a 5 speed gearbox, but 5th has 
to be less than 1:1. Other organizations will tell you the same thing.

I've used the same gearbox for 6 years now with no problems. Yes, I run 
towards the back of the pack, but always have someone to dice with. And I'm 
having a great time. And not spending a fortune doing it.

The "Redhead" has had a total of 2 DNF's in the 6 years of driving it, and 
they were in the first 2 races I ever did. Not bad.
My $.02 worth.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charles WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
Cc: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS GT6 REBUILD


>I think I started all this muckracking, so a question to help me out based 
>on
> what I'm hearing:
>
> "Facts"
> - The GT6 trans was good when new, but really unreliable now after 40 
> years
> - Suitable alternatives are TR 3/4/6, T9 or various Toyota
> - I have a typical spec GT6 4-spd with overdrive
>
> Questions:
> - Am I better off swapping the base unit out during the build or giving it 
> a
> chance?
> - Is OD of any use?
> - From my read of regs, a five speed is allowed as an alternative when
> replacing a 4spd OD unit, as long as 5th gear is < a 1.1 ratio.  If so, 
> what's
> my best option?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Watson
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sat Oct 13 20:07:03 2012
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 02:07:03 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <20121013.220703.30330.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

Bob, SCCA road racing production car specs for TR3-6 allow the use of any 5
speed transmission, as a replacement for the stock tranny/OD.  So a T5 is fine
and that is what I have been using for about 10 years.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400 (EDT)

> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
stock
>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>> issue....


Like the song says: "same as it ever was".

When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
advantage. ;-)

In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
NO advantage other than reliability.

Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
(about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
wonder why?

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
-----

____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 03:25:45 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 11:25:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000d01cda9ed$e59bf900$b0d3eb00$@com>

A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.



The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
from the camera.

The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.



Cheers

Chris



Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
An: MadMarx
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....



A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.

B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.

C. Whoops.



Jason Ostrowski

Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Oct 14 10:45:58 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 12:45:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] REPAIR PANELS FOR TR4 FRONT FENDER/LOWER AVAILABLE LOW COST
 OFFERING
Message-ID: <8CF784285000B45-1798-43603@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT

Working with Keith Niehaus, Keith developed the tooling to produce subject
repair panels.

The first production run is complete.

Keith is a master craftsman in manufacturing engineering and car
restoration....he did Uncle Jack's "OLD BLUE", the restoration on my TR3A, and
some of the major steel fabrications for the AMBRO.

If you have a need for repair panels in this area of your TR4/TR250, contact
us.

Successful launch of this new product will likely lead to more panels, like
the 'dog leg' leading edge of the rear TR4 fender.

Also under development is the repair panels for the TR6.

This is the initial offering of these panels and will be sold at an
'introductory price'.

NOTE: If anyone is going to be at the VTR Convention, we plan to display them
there.

THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 11:56:34 2012
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 10:56:34 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Message-ID: <13182436.1350237394292.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.

~S


-----Original Message-----
>From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
>To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
>Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>
>
>The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
>from the camera.
>
>The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
>behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.
>
>
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>_______________________________________________
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>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 13:35:20 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 19:35:20 +0000
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1350243138.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

Why?
6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach showed 7600 rpm as max.
Maybe that fatigued the piston?


------Originalnachricht------
Von: steve
An: MadMarx
Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Antwort an: steve
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56

I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.

~S


-----Original Message-----
>From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
>To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
>Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>
>
>The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
>from the camera.
>
>The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
>behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.
>
>
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>
>


Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

From johnstydo at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 14:15:26 2012
From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:15:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
References: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>

I watched your video again and didn't see 7600 rpm on your on-screen tach.
Where did you get that?

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 3:35 PM, <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Why?
> 6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
> I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
> On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach
> showed 7600 rpm as max.
> Maybe that fatigued the piston?
>
>
> ------Originalnachricht------
> Von: steve
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Antwort an: steve
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56
>
> I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.
>
> ~S
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> >Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
> >To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
> >Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >
> >
> >The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2  away
> >from the camera.
> >
> >The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
> >behind it looks as it would move 10  around which is not true.
> >
> >
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
> >Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
> >An: MadMarx
> >Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
> >Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
> >
> >C. Whoops.
> >
> >
> >
> >Jason Ostrowski
> >
> >Friendly Ghost Racing
> >
> >On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
>
> Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 14:19:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:19:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
	<CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1350245752.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

Not this video with this little roundabout. Dijon was a week before. On the wet race it happened once and at race 3 another time but not that high.
But it also could be a crack that came from 4 years of use.
 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:15:26 
To: <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: steve<colordog.1 at earthlink.net>; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....

I watched your video again and didn't see 7600 rpm on your on-screen tach.
Where did you get that?

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 3:35 PM, <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Why?
> 6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
> I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
> On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach
> showed 7600 rpm as max.
> Maybe that fatigued the piston?
>
>
> ------Originalnachricht------
> Von: steve
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Antwort an: steve
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56
>
> I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.
>
> ~S
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> >Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
> >To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
> >Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >
> >
> >The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2  away
> >from the camera.
> >
> >The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
> >behind it looks as it would move 10  around which is not true.
> >
> >
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
> >Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
> >An: MadMarx
> >Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
> >Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
> >
> >C. Whoops.
> >
> >
> >
> >Jason Ostrowski
> >
> >Friendly Ghost Racing
> >
> >On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
>
> Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Oct 14 19:53:25 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:53:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
Message-ID: <mailman.7.1350265812.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big 
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy 
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the 
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and 
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.

From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 19:56:51 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 18:56:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>

Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's another
thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have been dead for 40
years.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big beefy cast
thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy cast thing that was
there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy duty looking but does a much
better job of actually clamping onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out
of the lower big beefy one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Oct 14 20:42:49 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
	<611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.8.1350269199.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

Any clues on which borgeson stuff fits the splines on the steering 
rack?  Looks like the shaft would be 9/16 - the only one shown is 
9/16 26 spline, and the other end would need a custom shaft (I have a 
choice of 3/4" smooth bore or 3/4" 36 spline it appears).

Looks like the attachment is more of a "set screw" type of deal.  Is 
that better?

I'd love to update to something strong and reliable.

Thanks, Tony

At 08:56 PM 10/14/2012, Bill Babcock wrote:
>Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's 
>another thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have 
>been dead for 40 years.
>
>On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> > My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big 
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as 
> heavy duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping 
> onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy 
> one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
> >
> > So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
> >
> > Look forward to the advice.
> >
> > Tony Drews
> >
> > PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 21:39:46 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:39:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015024646.60F042C0CE0@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
	<611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
	<20121015024646.60F042C0CE0@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <51798D8D-D179-47D8-9C80-3C25508B6B8D@bnj.com>

I made an adapter from 3/4" Double D-section to the spline required for my
rack. Tony Garmey reworked the setup and made it prettier and more reliable,
but the adapter was just a sleeve that both bits got welded into with a good
quality TIG weld. I used their nice stainless needle bearing joints and billet
steel 3/4" pillow blocks.

Not hard to fabricate, hell for strong, no shake and no wobble. Gotta love all
that. Tony passed the shaft through the cowl roll bar -- I had it going over
that. In a production car I'd use one of their firewall flange bearings and
then a second block just before the first universal.

I drilled dimples into the shaft and ran the setscrews into the dimples before
locking everything down. Going nowhere. I've had my steering come apart on me
once. I can tell you for certain it's not fun.  Ain't happening again.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 7:42 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Any clues on which borgeson stuff fits the splines on the steering rack?
Looks like the shaft would be 9/16 - the only one shown is 9/16 26 spline, and
the other end would need a custom shaft (I have a choice of 3/4" smooth bore
or 3/4" 36 spline it appears).
>
> Looks like the attachment is more of a "set screw" type of deal.  Is that
better?
>
> I'd love to update to something strong and reliable.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 08:56 PM 10/14/2012, Bill Babcock wrote:
>> Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's another
thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have been dead for 40
years.
>>
>> On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
>>
>> > My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big beefy
cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy cast thing that
was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy duty looking but does a
much better job of actually clamping onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh**
out of the lower big beefy one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd
like.
>> >
>> > So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>> >
>> > Look forward to the advice.
>> >
>> > Tony Drews
>> >
>> > PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > fot at autox.team.net
>> >
>> > http://www.fot-racing.com
>> >
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 14 22:25:32 2012
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:25:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>

Tony
Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was worried about the rubber ones.  
Mike

Sent from my Kindle Fire



_____________________________________________
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big 
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy 
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the 
shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and 
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_____________________________________________

fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com

From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 22:29:46 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:29:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>

With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the front
straight at Sears Point.

The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Tony
> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was worried
about the rubber ones.
> Mike
>
> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _____________________________________________
>
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 07:34:10 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:34:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <20121013145101.788312D076F@autox.team.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
	<20121013145101.788312D076F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001801cdaad9$c241f4e0$46c5dea0$@net>

Hey Tony maybe the Miata club started this (too get you guys out of the
way.just kidding)
Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2012 10:54 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

Isn't it a bit early in the fall for the annual "what is vintage?" 
discussion?  Normally we wait until like December or January when everyone's
testy from the cold weather.  :)

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 07:49:32 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:49:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
	<A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>

A pair of TR6 U-JOINTS has our replacement parts for the TR4 and Ambro.

Note: I was side by side with an early Lotus 7, at the back straight at
Mosport, when his steering went adrift. Interesting watching this drama unfold
all of the way to the Jersey barriers. Scraping stop to some damage and no
injuries from about 100 mph.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 11:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the front
straight at Sears Point.

The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Tony
> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was
worried
about the rubber ones.
> Mike
>
> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _____________________________________________
>
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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From jsnook at wcnet.org  Mon Oct 15 08:29:29 2012
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:29:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3A Parts
Message-ID: <00a001cdaae1$7cc39b50$764ad1f0$@org>

Friends, 

There was some damage to my TR3A during the PVGP this past July.  Glen has
the car at his shop in Stuart, FL, where the repair/restoration has started.
So far there are a couple things that we know for sure are needed and any
help locating them would be greatly appreciated.

1.  Lower valance repair panel for the front nose, to include the tray.
Don't know if anyone is making a repair panel or if we have to go with a
used part.  Hopefully we do not have to purchase a whole nose.

2.  Steering box for a 2-piece steering column set-up.  New, used,
serviceable?  Any and all options considered.

Thanks in advance!

Vroom, vroom,

Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
419-344-0319 (Mobile)

From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 15 09:04:15 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:04:15 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
	<A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
	<8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D2519386-33E9-4E52-B252-818654455384@yahoo.com>

Mine has the old rag joints and safety wire.  Might want to change it out over
the winter.

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 15, 2012, at 7:49 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> A pair of TR6 U-JOINTS has our replacement parts for the TR4 and Ambro.
>
> Note: I was side by side with an early Lotus 7, at the back straight at
> Mosport, when his steering went adrift. Interesting watching this drama
unfold
> all of the way to the Jersey barriers. Scraping stop to some damage and no
> injuries from about 100 mph.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
> To: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
> Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 11:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
> you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the
front
> straight at Sears Point.
>
> The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.
>
> On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Tony
>> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was
> worried
> about the rubber ones.
>> Mike
>>
>> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>>
>>
>>
>> _____________________________________________
>> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
>> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>>
>>
>> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
>> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
>> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
>> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
>> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
>> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>>
>> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>>
>> Look forward to the advice.
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
>> _____________________________________________
>>
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 11:14:39 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:14:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] OSTHOFF at ROAD AMERICA - HOST HOTEL KASTNER CUP 2013 5-8
 SEPTEMBER 2013
Message-ID: <8CF790FB14BD640-1318-2775@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>

 LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS AT LESS THAN HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS PRICES.

Bottom line is that cost per night could be less than $100 per couple or less
than $50 per person.

This assume you select a 2 bedroom/2 bathroom suite and team up with another
couple or friends.

This can include a living room, kitchen, and other amenities.

The VSCDA also has activities at the OSTHOFF, including a CAR SHOW.

Kas and Peg will reside at the OSTHOFF.

RESPONSES will help me estimate how many rooms to have set aside in the
contract. I will likely lowball the number of suites set aside to avoid a 20%
liability. The OSTHOFF tends to be in fair demand during this weekend. Thus it
is not too soon to plan and reserve.

Reservation Code will be FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH

The OSTHOFF is on the LAKE, next to historic SIEBKENS, and only about 2 miles
from ROAD AMERICA.

OSTHOFF.COM







Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From igofaster at att.net  Mon Oct 15 11:36:43 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:36:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
Message-ID: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Reality is , we are trying to make these cars do what they were never  intended 
to do... that little red line on the tach of your Triumph was a  maximum mark. 
It was the limit you could hit every once in awhile. It's  not like it was meant 
for these engines to run 7000 rpm for long  durations.
So... with that being the obvious, it doesn't seem to  be a stretch for vintage 
racers to noodle with what could be deemed  more reliable or robust... in the 
name of trying to make these cars do  what they were never intended to do... 
through history of the cars the  guys and gals and teams that were trying to 
make them faster and safer  (sometimes) pushed the envelope of a stock car...  
anybody wants to  argue most vintage racers are stock cars simply opens on the 
observation  of ....  bull****....
Bobby

From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 12:24:13 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 14:24:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MRMOxftO5LbMpMK+HKfDAA2X60z76MFL4QPKKyr_4cAA@mail.gmail.com>

well Bobby on another subject...at VIR this past week the "Texas" crowd
showed up in force with about 10 or more racers, they had a company put up
a canopy that was at least 100 by 50 feet and the group surrounded it like
"cowboys"...all backed up to the canopy, they had a great gruop of people
and said that they knew you. We laughed that the" Texas crowd" does it
bigger...and it was...the biggest canopy that I have ever seen ! Great
group of racers and more than hospitable...tried to keep me there drinking
and eating. Keep your chin up and your foot on the pedal...take care.

rob deanes
TR Racer

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 1:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> Reality is , we are trying to make these cars do what they were never
>  intended
> to do... that little red line on the tach of your Triumph was a  maximum
> mark.
> It was the limit you could hit every once in awhile. It's  not like it was
> meant
> for these engines to run 7000 rpm for long  durations.
> So... with that being the obvious, it doesn't seem to  be a stretch for
> vintage
> racers to noodle with what could be deemed  more reliable or robust... in
> the
> name of trying to make these cars do  what they were never intended to
> do...
> through history of the cars the  guys and gals and teams that were trying
> to
> make them faster and safer  (sometimes) pushed the envelope of a stock
> car...
> anybody wants to  argue most vintage racers are stock cars simply opens on
> the
> observation  of ....  bull****....
> Bobby
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer

From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Oct 15 12:33:21 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:33:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
"it doesn't seem to be a stretch for vintage
racers to noodle with what could be deemed more reliable or robust... in the
name of trying to make these cars do what they were never intended to do.."

Careful though Bobby,
Everyone has to be realistic and fair to the spirit of competition.
Unlimited classes and different opportunities exist in SCCA and other Club
Racing sanctioning bodies. These more modern production classes still have
places our cars with more radical "safety and speed" developments.
Pass the point of no return and that is where you should end up.
Just because Willwood makes a brake kit that fits on your GT6 doesn't mean
that you should be able to use it in vintage.
We all know this is a slippery slope.
We must all respect the fact that some cars have be running very
successfully for decades in a class legal configuration. It is also not
fair to push perfectly adequate race cars to the back of the grid just
because some better equipment is now available.
The spirit of Vintage must still hold weight and be honored as important.
No body will be mad at you if you want to race on slick tires or tell you
you can't put that car on a tube frame. But I'm glad that rules exist for
vintage that won't let you go to far.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Oct 15 15:14:24 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:14:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5419523E5DFD9327C5D6F6DF710@phx.gbl>

The tach redline is a RECOMMENDATION.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:33:21 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: igofaster at att.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
>
> On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
wrote:
> "it doesn't seem to be a stretch for vintage
> racers to noodle with what could be deemed more reliable or robust... in
the
> name of trying to make these cars do what they were never intended to do.."
>
> Careful though Bobby,
> Everyone has to be realistic and fair to the spirit of competition.
> Unlimited classes and different opportunities exist in SCCA and other Club
> Racing sanctioning bodies. These more modern production classes still have
> places our cars with more radical "safety and speed" developments.
> Pass the point of no return and that is where you should end up.
> Just because Willwood makes a brake kit that fits on your GT6 doesn't mean
> that you should be able to use it in vintage.
> We all know this is a slippery slope.
> We must all respect the fact that some cars have be running very
> successfully for decades in a class legal configuration. It is also not
> fair to push perfectly adequate race cars to the back of the grid just
> because some better equipment is now available.
> The spirit of Vintage must still hold weight and be honored as important.
> No body will be mad at you if you want to race on slick tires or tell you
> you can't put that car on a tube frame. But I'm glad that rules exist for
> vintage that won't let you go to far.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Mon Oct 15 16:48:35 2012
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 16:48:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-W25B06D0C79D822BDCD453190710@phx.gbl>

Your engine is only one rebuild behind the transmission.  Is a Toyota engine
in your future?   Cheers, Henry Morrison

> amen to that
>
>
>
> On 10/12/12 11:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> > I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> > you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> > speed in these cars.
> > The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> > hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between
you and
> > your car is toxic.
> > Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> > Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> > sanctioning rules.
> > Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> > example.
> > Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> > to vintage spirit.
> >
> > I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> > in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run
vintage...
> > Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in
Texas. The
> > car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way
I
> > presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would
put a
> > Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> > Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> > with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> > overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> > exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England... in
> > the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> > receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like
you
> > wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm
going to
> > run the T50.... no problem.
> > I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> > sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
going to
> > continue to run.
> > Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> > pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> > the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> > not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any
business
> > format... IMHO....
> >
> > Bobby Whitehead
> >
> > on the hunt... again.....
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dos_gusanos at msn.com

From malaboge at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 18:48:36 2012
From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:48:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.  The
units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by the
units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a lot
of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_______________________________________________

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 15 19:38:59 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:38:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
	<8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.9.1350351345.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXcTElpR: Permission denied

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 15 19:47:41 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:47:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
Message-ID: <mailman.10.1350351867.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

Let's try this again in plain text:
So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on 
one of them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it 
tight on the steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even 
relieved some additional metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel 
to help this.  I can slide the shaft in and out of the u-joint 
slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll break it.  This makes 
me very nervous.

It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline 
on both ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set 
screw.  If I drill dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them 
in place.  I've got one coming.

The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct 
styles.  One doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can 
actually pinch the darn thing together and make it nice and 
tight.  Ideally I would find another one of those, but the current 
manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that pattern.

I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the 
problem I have.

Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that 
there are more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one 
is 9*16" x 36 spline?

Thanks, Tony

At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt 
in.  The units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the 
"crummy scale" by the units with eight conical "faucet washers" 
holding it all together.  I do a lot of tech for the local clubs and 
can't even count all of the bad, torn or extremely loose joints I've 
found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed on the track until 
the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer 
setups automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's 
really a "safety upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard 
for brakes, engines, trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Oct 15 20:32:57 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 19:32:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121016014429.0025A2C0D16@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1350354777.31994.YahooMailClassic@web181402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tony: This terrible thought of placing MGB bits on a TR4 is true! Moss Motors
P/N 263-090 does fit the TR shaft. They also have a nice Hardy-Spicer
replacement for the OE  under part number 263-265. I built a R&P steering
conversion to a TR3 using said 263-090 P/N. Would you like me to check my
inventory of MGB steering columns tomorrow to see if I have one for you?
-Ed- 

--- On Mon, 10/15/12, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:


From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, October 15, 2012, 8:47 PM


Let's try this again in plain text:
So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on one of
them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it tight on the
steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even relieved some additional
metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel to help this.  I can slide the
shaft in and out of the u-joint slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll
break it.  This makes me very nervous.

It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline on both
ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set screw.  If I drill
dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them in place.  I've got one
coming.

The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct styles.  One
doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can actually pinch the
darn thing together and make it nice and tight.  Ideally I would find another
one of those, but the current manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that
pattern.

I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the problem I
have.

Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that there are
more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one is 9*16" x 36
spline?

Thanks, Tony

At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.  The
units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by the
units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a lot
of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 22:05:09 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:05:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
	<8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <99F93C4A-8CC5-4AFF-A91D-0D77C9A25DB5@bnj.com>

Seiously guys, the TR6 joints are crap too. I used them on my street TR3 rack
and pinion conversion, but they're not much compared to the modern stuff. It's
not a competitive advantage, just pure safety. SAE considers 5/8" shafts to be
marginal and 3/4" to be appropriate. For the same price of the original stuff
you can get 3/4" double d with hefty universals that have needle bearings
twice the size of the TR6 stuff. Your choice, your butt.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:48 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The
> units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the
> units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot
> of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
> extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't
allowed
> on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
> automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
> upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
> trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 22:13:07 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:13:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121016014431.C264D2C6CD2@autox.team.net>
References: <20121016014431.C264D2C6CD2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <206F65FE-52BA-49A5-B4C0-AFB1FC78F575@bnj.com>

The borgeson joints actually have two set screws. The shaft they are supposed
to screw into is hollow. You drill a hole through one side of the hollow shaft
and run the screw through to the other side. the second set screw goes into a
dimple you drill. Both set screws are locked with a locknut. This is a pretty
positive locking arrangement. Kind of what you might want your steering to
use.

the TR6 joints are designed for splined shafts with a flat ground into them.
You pinch the housing onto the spline, but it's really the bolt passing by the
flat that locks the assembly in. And yes, they are kind of cludgy compared to
modern practice. They don't lock down well and there's some wiggle in the
resulting system from the loose fit on the splines. It took quite a bit of
grinding and some good, hard flange bolts the actually get it all locked down
for my street car. If it wiggles a tiny bit I'm tossing it all on top of my
pile of lucas distributors and replacing it with Borgeson stuff--which works
flawlessly.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 6:47 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Let's try this again in plain text:
> So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on one of
them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it tight on the
steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even relieved some additional
metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel to help this.  I can slide the
shaft in and out of the u-joint slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll
break it.  This makes me very nervous.
>
> It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline on both
ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set screw.  If I drill
dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them in place.  I've got one
coming.
>
> The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct styles.  One
doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can actually pinch the
darn thing together and make it nice and tight.  Ideally I would find another
one of those, but the current manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that
pattern.
>
> I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the problem
I have.
>
> Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that there are
more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one is 9*16" x 36
spline?
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:
>
> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 22:40:48 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 22:40:48 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <99F93C4A-8CC5-4AFF-A91D-0D77C9A25DB5@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.11.1350362764.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

That MGB U-joint looks pretty nifty but looks heavy. Are they available in
titanium ?
jg

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 10:05 PM
To: malaboge at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4

Seiously guys, the TR6 joints are crap too. I used them on my street TR3
rack
and pinion conversion, but they're not much compared to the modern stuff.
It's
not a competitive advantage, just pure safety. SAE considers 5/8" shafts to
be
marginal and 3/4" to be appropriate. For the same price of the original
stuff
you can get 3/4" double d with hefty universals that have needle bearings
twice the size of the TR6 stuff. Your choice, your butt.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:48 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The
> units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the
> units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot
> of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
> extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't
allowed
> on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
> automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
> upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
> trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Oct 16 10:53:56 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 12:53:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TRANSPORT FOR TRIUMPH RACERS 2013 KASTNER CUP ROAD AMERICA
Message-ID: <8CF79D5F6BCEDBD-EDC-327E@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT,

If anyone has visibility to low cost transporters PLEASE publish to this list
and the FOT WEBSITE.

We have a need to transport cars from SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, perhaps the PACIFIC
NORTHWEST, and other locations in NORTH AMERICA.  For starters, we have four
cars in SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA that need to get to Road America next September.

Thank you very much!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From jason at multivintage.com  Tue Oct 16 17:30:26 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:30:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
Message-ID: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>

Well, miracles never cease!
Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
restoration process...
Today we fired up the ole hound.

My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
met its symbolic (near) completion today.
Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.

Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
And raced it until 1985.
Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
at the track had taken its toll.
The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
foul-mouthed swearing.
To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
its stock appearance.
After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
started.
I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
fired up.
Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
withstand a 27 year hibernation.
He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
basement.
I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
flawless "showroom stock" trim..
I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
have to use my wallet to finish it..
Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
looking.
Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.

Jason Ostrowski
GT6 Nut head.

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Oct 16 17:39:51 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 17:39:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>

Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.

From kkjjk at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 17:50:23 2012
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 19:50:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>

agreed



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 16, 2012 7:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy


Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com

From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Tue Oct 16 18:07:14 2012
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:07:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>

Well done! And well written!  Congrats!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
> 
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
> 
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
> 
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net

From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 16 18:23:36 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:23:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <F5BF5942-A383-4037-A4F1-142BBAE54B04@yahoo.com>

Jason

Do you have any pictures you can post?  I am sure we would all love to see it!
I just started a restoration on a TR4, and although I don't have the history
you have, I am looking forward to the end result!

Thx

Ty

Tyler Thompson l National Account Executive - Public Safety Sector
esri | One International Court | Broomfield, CO 80021
Phone: 303.449-7779 ext. 8260, cell: 719.510-1649 |
E-mail: tyler_thompson at esri.com


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 16, 2012, at 6:07 PM, Todd Redmond <alfetta95 at optonline.net> wrote:

> Well done! And well written!  Congrats!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
wrote:
>
>> Well, miracles never cease!
>> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
>> restoration process...
>> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>>
>> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
>> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
>> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this
undying
>> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
>> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>>
>> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
>> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
>> And raced it until 1985.
>> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
>> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
>> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
>> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
>> at the track had taken its toll.
>> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
>> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
>> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
>> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
>> foul-mouthed swearing.
>> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
>> its stock appearance.
>> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get
it
>> started.
>> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
>> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
>> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
>> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
>> fired up.
>> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
>> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
>> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
>> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
>> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
>> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
>> basement.
>> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
>> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
>> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
>> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
>> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
>> have to use my wallet to finish it..
>> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
>> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
>> looking.
>> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
>> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>>
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> GT6 Nut head.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Oct 16 18:25:53 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:25:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>

Jason, it's "Opossum".  Congratulations!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 18:39:38 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:39:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1988AFDD4DD857C131A0A9EB2770@phx.gbl>

That is AWESOME!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-16, at 7:30 PM, "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From clw2000 at msn.com  Tue Oct 16 18:44:34 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:44:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU402-EAS3968D3FAA4C59B108747AC6BF770@phx.gbl>

Best thing I've read in a while. Congrats Jason.  Send pics.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>
wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com

From jason at multivintage.com  Tue Oct 16 19:19:24 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 01:19:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.12.1350436571.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

John, they are "SCARY"
Thanks.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:25:53 
To: Jason Ostrowski<jason at multivintage.com>
Cc: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy

Jason, it's "Opossum".  Congratulations!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
> 
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
> 
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
> 
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 13:21:39 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:21:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>

That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into  "B"
 
 
In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
igofaster at att.net writes:

sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" ....  broke....

Bobby

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 13 13:43:01 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:43:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
References: <D26321C3-3641-408D-B3C9-572605486A20@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <9D8D6DE1-C5DC-41A9-B5FB-BED444E4A654@gdhs.com>

For every ones info
Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Date: October 13, 2012 3:42:03 PM EDT
> To: "Snowdonracing at aol.com" <Snowdonracing at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
>
> Thanks Ray that just about clears up my question. So, "same number of
gears". Would my 4 speed with OD mean I could replace with a 5 speed & a
weight. Penalty?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 9:39 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>
>> By special rules; do you mean the Make and Model Regs for the TR3 ??
>> The way I have understood these rules is that the Make and Model Regs. show
the original specs and equipment for that particular car.  The Supplemental
Regs for the Group apply to all cars (aka all Make and Models) that are in
that Group.  So, in your case, the Make and Model Regs for the TR3 show the
original trans (4 speed) with an optional overdrive.  The Group 3
Supplementals say that you can replace that original trans with another
Production Based unit, same # of gears, but with a weight penalty.
>>
>> In other words, the Make and Models set the BASICS, including some do's and
don'ts at the bottom.
>> The Group Supplementals tell us what we can do over and above those Make
and Model Basics.
>> Hope this helps.
>> Ray
>>
>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 8:46:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>> Thanks Ray. I know that is what the  G3 rules say; but the special rules
for TR3's states original transmissions. So the rules say one thing under G3
and another under TR3-4.  How are we to know which one is correct?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hi John,
>>>
>>>     Thanks for the note and sorry you are having issues.  There is a
substitution rule in the Group 3 Supplementals already.  It states:
>>> "Standard gearbox may be replaced with an alternate PRODUCTION BASED
GEARBOX of the same number of forward speeds.  ADD 75LBS. TO OFFICIAL WEIGHT.
When replacing a 4-speed w/overdrive unit with a 5-speed, the 5th gear must be
lower numerically than 1 : 1."
>>> If a non-standard gearbox is being used, it must be declared on the RCIS
sheet for the vehicle.
>>> Your Triumph, TR3, lists a 4-speed with Laycock overdrive optional.  That
means 5 forward speeds.
>>> So, the rules are already there.  Cars that were never equipped with
overdrive, or as an option, must continue to keep their original number of
forward speeds.
>>> The number of forward speeds is something that we will be checking on for
2013 as we step up on rules enforcement.
>>> I hope this answers your questions.
>>> Ray
>>>
>>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 1:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>>> Ray:
>>>     As our Triumphs, MGs, Morgans, Elvas etc. get even older than they
>>> already are, a number of us are having transmission problems with the
>>> original gear boxes which are causing frequent costly repairs and I
>>> understand that MGs are also having source problems as well.  While I
>>> understand the spirit of the rules and try to keep my TR within them,
>>> reliability and the cost of fixing old "stuff" is becoming a problem
which
>>> may well keep some of us from participating in as many events as we might
>>> otherwise like.  For instance I just spent $730 to go through my TR box
and
>>> after the Gold Cup, it feels like it needs it again.  It may well be time
to
>>> consider, in the interest of safety and reliability, allowing these cars
to
>>> use the readily available GM and Toyota 5 speed transmission conversions.
I
>>> note also, that 4 speeds vs. 5 speeds is not a problem in as much as
these
>>> old English cars had overdrive units available which, like my car, give
you
>>> an effective 5 speed unit.
>>>     I would also note that there are already some cars using these
>>> conversions and there should be a "level playing field" approach
considered
>>> as well.  Please give some thought to this with your Tech staff .  I look
>>> forward to your response....
>>>
>>> John H. Hasty  SVRA # 8326
>>> Attorney At Law
>>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>>> 719 East Boulevard
>>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>>> www.gdhs.com
>>>
>>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
>>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
that
>>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
>>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
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>>> addressed herein.

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 21:37:03 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:37:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>
References: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>

LMAO

Last outing of the year, 2nd last session.  Bolt backed out of roto flex made
contact with inner hub/vert link, ruined axle, broke the diff and probably
finished the already weak transmission.  Good thing I have all the spare parts
on hand and Im a GT6 nut.   Along with some planned engine improvements I'll
be busy in the garage all winter doing the drive train ars to tea kettle....


Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-16, at 11:07 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

> That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into  "B"
>
>
> In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> igofaster at att.net writes:
>
> sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" ....  broke....
>
> Bobby
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From clw2000 at msn.com  Wed Oct 17 05:10:40 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 07:10:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>
References: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>,
	<SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W61CCA077121DB1E2F471A9BF770@phx.gbl>

Glad it wasn't your neck that made contact!  If you're running the stock donut
system, now is the opportunity to upgrade that roto system to something
race-worthy!  Lot's of info in the FOT archives for this fix.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson










> From: vangoughv at hotmail.com
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:37:03 -0400
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com
> CC: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> LMAO
>
> Last outing of the year, 2nd last session. Bolt backed out of roto flex
made
> contact with inner hub/vert link, ruined axle, broke the diff and probably
> finished the already weak transmission. Good thing I have all the spare
parts
> on hand and Im a GT6 nut. Along with some planned engine improvements I'll
> be busy in the garage all winter doing the drive train ars to tea
kettle....
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-10-16, at 11:07 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> > That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into "B"
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > igofaster at att.net writes:
> >
> > sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" .... broke....
> >
> > Bobby
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 19:16:13 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:16:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wheel arches
Message-ID: <D70FCCD9-DF98-4DAF-A6DD-B2DD26C55898@aol.com>

If my bad memory serves me correctly there was a member looking for spitfire
wheel arches.   I have a donor.  Just pay shipping.
Contact me off list.

From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 18 09:46:59 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 08:46:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
	<8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1350575219.64087.YahooMailRC@web182202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

PIX for the KIDS !

Bobby




________________________________
From: "kkjjk at aol.com" <kkjjk at aol.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, October 16, 2012 7:00:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy

agreed



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 16, 2012 7:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy


Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Oct 18 13:25:21 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 15:25:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT 2013 KASTNER CUP SPONSORS to date TRUE FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH!
Message-ID: <8CF7B7D72BB84EA-1F58-199B@webmail-m067.sysops.aol.com>

 YES.....WE HAVE "SPONSORS".

THE HONOR ROLL

CHRIS BOCK
TODD REDMOND
BOB LANG
TONY SCHEACH
JEFF SNOOK
DAVE HOGYE
THE KAHLERS
BOB DAVIS
BOB BOWNES
CHARLES WATSON
BOB KRAMER
BOBBY WHITEHEAD
BILL DENTINGER
CLIVE AVERILL
WARREN APLIN
JOHN FRIDIRICI

The FOT thanks you......................PRETTY AMAZING for a non-organization
with no dues.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 21:23:31 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 21:23:31 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
Message-ID: <mailman.14.1350703764.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the 

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with

 

Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/

 

jim g

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Oct 19 22:03:11 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 23:03:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032947.C18CA2C0BF7@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032947.C18CA2C0BF7@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000901cdae77$d24a7a50$76df6ef0$@com>

Fantastic pictures, thanks!!!  It looks like the exhaust charge would go up
that wall and around and out.  In other words it didn't look all that bad to
my "untrained" eye.  The photos really show the large amount cooling around
the exhaust valve guide and the small amount around the intake guide.  They
also show the benefits of cutting off the guides so they don't stick into
the ports.  Thanks again,

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:24 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the 

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with

 

Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/

 

jim g
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 19 22:18:07 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 21:18:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032936.D13A12D0717@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032936.D13A12D0717@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake is
not that much better.
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the
>
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
>
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
>
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
> with
>
>
>
> Pix are on photobucket
>
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
>
>
>
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 00:04:17 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 00:04:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1350713387.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the charge
is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss. 
The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make some
of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

jg


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
To: Jim Gray
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
is not that much better. 
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the 
> 
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
> 
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
> 
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
experiment
> with
> 
> 
> 
> Pix are on photobucket
> 
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
> 
> 
> 
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 06:43:43 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:43:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020061739.B4A592D075A@autox.team.net>
References: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>,
	<20121020061739.B4A592D075A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W19094B8F6649F97745AAD9BA740@phx.gbl>

Thanks for posting the picts Jim. FWIW, I purchased David Vizard's Theory and
Practice of Cylinder Head Modification a long time ago. He addresses the TR3/4
head pretty well in the book. On the subject of cutting the valve guides so
they don't project into the flow path, this seems like such a good idea, and
the factory could have saved a penny or so by making them shorter to start
with it makes me wonder why they did not do that from the beginning? This is
timely discussion as I am getting ready to butcher, er I mean modify a TR4
head. :)

From tlizzard at msn.com  Sat Oct 20 07:54:12 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 09:54:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020061728.C7F162D0753@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020061728.C7F162D0753@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds63F13EAA141E4A1A99B48C3740@phx.gbl>

And to think that this is the "improved" head compared to the original TR2/TR3
design...


Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Jim Gray<mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
  To: 'Bill Babcock'<mailto:ponobill at gmail.com>
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 2:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )


  The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the
charge
  is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
  benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss.
  The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
  valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
  I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make
some
  of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

  jg


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
  Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
  To: Jim Gray
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

  Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
  is not that much better.
  On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net<mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net>> wrote:

  > FoT,
  > I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
  > guides. It sure is a different view of the
  >
  > TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around
the
  > back of the valve guide boss
  >
  > and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just
outside
  > the valve seat.
  >
  > We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
  experiment
  > with
  >
  >
  >
  > Pix are on photobucket
  >
  >
http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/<http://s698.
photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/>
  >
  >
  >
  > jim g
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
  >
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 20 08:03:14 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 16:03:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032924.EA4032D074A@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032924.EA4032D074A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000101cdaecb$a73e3b40$f5bab1c0$@com>

Interesting how thin the head walls are.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Jim Gray
Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 05:24
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with



Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/



jim g
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 08:36:42 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:36:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcF92O2PX9ytJSnGRW_D=f_xCP=_JaWZNd-veNy0Y-=5eg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.16.1350744123.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm definitely going to be looking at valve seats. They play a really big
roll in the overall flow.

As far as valve guides go we will do some testing with and without. More
importantly though

I want to try a fuel shear ramp before and after the valve / guides to
smooth turbulence.

I want to get maximum velocity first.

jim

 

 

  _____  

From: John Styduhar [mailto:johnstydo at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 6:30 AM
To: Jim Gray
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

 

Great work Jim.  Do you have any plans to test modifications other than port
design, like valve seat profile and whether or not grinding of the exposed
valve guides has any effect on flow?  

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 2:04 AM, Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the charge
is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss.
The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make some
of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
To: Jim Gray
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
is not that much better.
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the
>
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
>
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
>
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
experiment
> with
>
>
>
> Pix are on photobucket
>
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
>
>
>
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sjanzen at me.com  Sat Oct 20 09:27:33 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:27:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
Message-ID: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>

The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.  

Sent from my mobile device 

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 09:31:21 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 10:31:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <83995CA5-2B32-4B91-9ADA-41C21D9ED91E@gmail.com>

I'm happy with the Mallory Unilite on the TR engine in our Morgan (and in our
non-TR engined Morgan also).

Duncan

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com

From triosan at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 09:38:45 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:38:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAyJqu9QT_MFg=DMjiEA=N3BtoiA6gS_JHKR2Jb8YqJhg@mail.gmail.com>

Pertronix makes a distributor with Ignitor II ignition. Works great in my
TR6. They have one for the four also.

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 8:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As
> I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
> replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported
> quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if
> you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From fubog1 at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 09:47:48 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:47:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>

 Lucas of course, usually a model 45 with Allison/Crane optical unit.

Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 20, 2012 11:29 am
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4


The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on
my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take this
car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So,
should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues with
Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known good
set-up you want to sell, let me know.

Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com

From kaskas at cox.net  Sat Oct 20 09:48:12 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 15:48:12 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-3 & 4 ports
Message-ID: <SNT120-W825AD22E65B8C317BC509DF740@phx.gbl>

For those of you that have my book "Historical and Technical Guide" published
in 2008, there are Mordy Dunst photos of the cross sections of the ports on
page 58 and my suggestion line for porting with advice on the weld fill on the
exhaust port also.  Neat that Jim is following up with more detail.

Never be beaten by equipment

From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 10:14:36 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 12:14:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MSVgygx+qqFW93LGmS5Uq9K63vVHZWaeCUOub7xFHkNg@mail.gmail.com>

Scott, I use a Pertronics dist. on my racer and have had only one
problem...three years later.... since I put it in in 2007 and Pertronics
suppoort was great with a new unit for free. Just my two cents.

rob deanes
TR Racer

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 11:47 AM, fubog1 <fubog1 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Lucas of course, usually a model 45 with Allison/Crane optical unit.
>
> Glen
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
> To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 20, 2012 11:29 am
> Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
>
> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition
> on
> my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
> this
> car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So,
> should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
> with
> Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
> good
> set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer

From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 20 10:14:35 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:14:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <CD0569BA-60E1-463E-8E2D-2C881DA9A1E3@sbcglobal.net>

Lucas 25D -
send it to Advanced Distributors
for a complete rebuild.
612-804-5543
Jeff can also supply you with a core if you don' have one.

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 09:45:50 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
Message-ID: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>

We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't 
think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
 
For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the 
TR4's are the same....
 
 
In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sjanzen at me.com writes:

The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered 
ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may 
take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based 
replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality 
issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you 
have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.  

Sent from my  mobile device  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From jhouathome at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 11:12:38 2012
From: jhouathome at aol.com (John Houlton)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 12:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>

Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
John

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 11:37:21 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 13:37:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT403-EAS44406A25AFBF8FA1BA37F04B2740@phx.gbl>

Installed a Pertronix on Both my race and street GT6.  Excellent results.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-20, at 1:18 PM, "John Houlton" <jhouathome at aol.com> wrote:

> Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
> John
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 20 15:33:49 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 23:33:49 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>

I run Pertronix I.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4

The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.

Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 20 17:38:48 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:38:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
Message-ID: <7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>

We use a dist from Moss called I think, "race" with protrpnix and their coil
Never any problem. I think it is aMG dist at any rate be sure and use thee red
rotor

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 20, 2012, at 5:33 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I run Pertronix I.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Scott Janzen
> Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
> An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Sat Oct 20 18:06:32 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 18:06:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
Message-ID: <58CC71DA-33AC-4E52-B4AF-3A84DDC7AAC0@yahoo.com>

TrueSpark electronic from BP Northwest.  My Mallory dual point developed top
end wobble making it hard to time. The TrueSpark has bushings to adjust total
advance.  Mark Eden bought one and I followed his lead.

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 20, 2012, at 11:12 AM, John Houlton <jhouathome at aol.com> wrote:

> Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
> John
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 20 18:18:17 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:18:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
	<7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <D648C2D8-A4AE-4BFC-AEB8-E99912C1B560@sbcglobal.net>

'The Red Rotor' is sourced from Advanced Distributors.

On Oct 20, 2012, at 6:38 PM, John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> We use a dist from Moss called I think, "race" with protrpnix and their
coil
> Never any problem. I think it is aMG dist at any rate be sure and use thee
red
> rotor
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 5:33 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>> I run Pertronix I.
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>> Auftrag von Scott Janzen
>> Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
>> An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
>> Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition
>> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
> take
>> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
>> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
> issues
>> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
> known
>> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net

From horizonracing at msn.com  Sun Oct 21 10:48:43 2012
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 09:48:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>

Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success is :malloy alloy dist.
pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm wires.  Although not
perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo costly and most important
to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2 seasons before they need a
basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight bushings fail (plastic). The malloy
rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also, the CSRG folks do not allow MSD ign.,
so the box is placed in a discreet location..... painted black.  I guess they
don't want the BIG RED box to be seen...or something like that.  I'm also
interested in what other racers are using.   CheersTony Garmey
 > From: Gt6steve at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400
> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
> We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
> think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
>
> For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
> TR4's are the same....
>
>
> In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> sjanzen at me.com writes:
>
> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As
I may
> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported
quality
> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you
> have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my  mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com

From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 21 11:37:15 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:37:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
	<SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>

I liked the simplicity of the Mallory dual points with total loss battery,
though I admit to a few embarassing incidents when the battery went flat. When
Tony took over maintenance of Peyote he went immediately to a pertronix unit,
which I had abandoned feeling they need more than the 12 or less volts of a
total loss system under load. Of course they worked fine for him. He also
added an alternator, which has been a bit of a mixed bag. When you rev
fequently to 7K the vibrations are tough on alternator mounts. Slowing the
alternator helps, but it's still a heavy weight on the far end of a system
that's shaking like a cheap blender.

The bottom line with Peyote is that under Tony's care I've broken all my
personal lap records at every track I run at, every year. And the car runs
flawlessly.  I know damned well it's not the driver getting better.


On Oct 21, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success is :malloy alloy dist.
> pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm wires.  Although not
> perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo costly and most
important
> to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2 seasons before they need a
> basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight bushings fail (plastic). The
malloy
> rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also, the CSRG folks do not allow MSD
ign.,
> so the box is placed in a discreet location..... painted black.  I guess
they
> don't want the BIG RED box to be seen...or something like that.  I'm also
> interested in what other racers are using.   CheersTony Garmey
>> From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400
>> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
>> think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
>>
>> For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
>> TR4's are the same....
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> sjanzen at me.com writes:
>>
>> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
>> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range.
As
> I may
>> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
>> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given
reported
> quality
>> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you
>> have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my  mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From stutzmans at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 12:31:00 2012
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 14:31:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>

I'm surprised to hear that some of the racers are using new Pertronix 
dizzys.  I think they are made in India; but for whatever reason I'm not 
impressed with their build quality as compared with the old Lucas 25D and 
45D dizzys.  When properly sorted out on a Sun machine 25Ds and 45Ds (Glen 
likes the 45D because of its big cap) give excellent service.
A very important issue for racers is cam lobe accuracy which is an easy test 
on a Sun machine.  I've almost always found Lucas 4 cylinder dizzys to be 
right on.  Not so much on the Lucas 22D6 (TR6 dizzy) though.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 11:27 AM
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4


> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered 
> ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As 
> I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based 
> replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given 
> reported quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts? 
> And, if you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 12:54:10 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 12:54:10 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
Message-ID: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>

I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving 
problem.
It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and check 
it out.
There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but 
the basic
functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.   
It will be
a while before I get all the missing mail back in there, should be done 
sometime
during the week.

And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a 
few pennies
and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty IPA 
or a some
of their Imperial Red...


mjb.

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Oct 21 13:19:35 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 15:19:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Just a test-delete
Message-ID: <1d211.3e06ad28.3db5a4c7@aol.com>

This is a test, please ignore;-))  Steve

From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 21 13:49:18 2012
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 12:49:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
	<SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
	<BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <1350848958.35951.YahooMailNeo@web162502.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

We use a mallory duel point with one set blocked the other triggering
a MSD
6AL-2 with MSD 8.2 wires.The Mallory is easy to rebuild and
recurve. MSD have
rules you must follow or failure will be immanent
however should that happen
it is easy to bypass and just use the dual
point and stay racing for the
weekend.


From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Tony and Annie Garmey
<horizonracing at msn.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012
12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4

I liked the
simplicity of the Mallory dual points with total loss battery,
though I admit
to a few embarassing incidents when the battery went flat. When
Tony took over
maintenance of Peyote he went immediately to a pertronix unit,
which I had
abandoned feeling they need more than the 12 or less volts of a
total loss
system under load. Of course they worked fine for him. He also
added an
alternator, which has been a bit of a mixed bag. When you rev
fequently to 7K
the vibrations are tough on alternator mounts. Slowing the
alternator helps,
but it's still a heavy weight on the far end of a system
that's shaking like a
cheap blender.

The bottom line with Peyote is that under Tony's care I've
broken all my
personal lap records at every track I run at, every year. And
the car runs
flawlessly.  I know damned well it's not the driver getting
better.


On Oct 21, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Tony and Annie Garmey
<horizonracing at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success
is :malloy alloy dist.
> pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm
wires.  Although not
> perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo
costly and most
important
> to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2
seasons before they need a
> basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight
bushings fail (plastic). The
malloy
> rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also,
the CSRG folks do not allow MSD
ign.,
> so the box is placed in a discreet
location..... painted black.  I guess
they
> don't want the BIG RED box to be
seen...or something like that.  I'm also
> interested in what other racers are
using.   CheersTony Garmey
>> From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012
11:45:50 -0400
>> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot]
Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> We've seen some strange maladies with
the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
>> think you can beat the points Mallory
for performance and  reliability.
>>
>> For the Herald based cars you order
the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
>> TR4's are the same....
>>
>>
>> In a
message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> sjanzen at me.com
writes:
>>
>> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank
triggered
>> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm
range.
As
> I may
>> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a
distributor-based
>> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic
guts, given
reported
> quality
>> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc? 
Other thoughts?  And, if you
>> have  a known good set-up you want to sell,
let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my  mobile device
>>
_______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com
>>
_______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/j.wags63 at yahoo.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 14:45:22 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 14:45:22 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
In-Reply-To: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
References: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>

Well the FOT archives are not working as planned.  For some reason April 
and May
have duplicate entries, and the October archive is not showing up at 
all, even though
mail is going into it.

It is a cool and cloudy day, so while I ought to be out in the garage 
I'll keep working
on Team.Net for a while.

It's always something!

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 15:35:57 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 15:35:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-3 & 4 ports
Message-ID: <50846ABD.7000107@bradakis.com>

>  For those of you that have my book "Historical and Technical Guide"

That reminds me, I need to get new copies of the three books that I loaned out
that never came back.  Sad story, I won't go into details.  But with Christmas
coming up it may be time to drop a few hints around the relatives.

And the FOT archives seem to be in better health now, with all of September and
October up to date.

mjb.

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun Oct 21 15:36:20 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 16:36:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
In-Reply-To: <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>
References: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
  <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <A7B28AA8-EC07-4231-9A5A-8DB253688CAE@consolidated.net>

Thanks for all you do

Kg

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 21, 2012, at 3:45 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Well the FOT archives are not working as planned.  For some reason April and
May
> have duplicate entries, and the October archive is not showing up at all,
even though
> mail is going into it.
>
> It is a cool and cloudy day, so while I ought to be out in the garage I'll
keep working
> on Team.Net for a while.
>
> It's always something!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphs at consolidated.net

From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Oct 22 09:45:51 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:45:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
Message-ID: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>

I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google searches as being used for marine applications, though there's nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?

Here's the current spec:
non-resistor plug
Thread Size: 14mm
Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
Hex Size: 13/16"
Heat Range: 8
Gap: 1.02mm (.040")

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 22 09:58:51 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 10:58:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.18.1350921474.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the 
BP6HS is colder.

Tony

At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at 
>Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new 
>plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google 
>searches as being used for marine applications, though there's 
>nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam 
>that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs 
>are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>
>Here's the current spec:
>non-resistor plug
>Thread Size: 14mm
>Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>Hex Size: 13/16"
>Heat Range: 8
>Gap: 1.02mm (.040")

From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Oct 22 10:01:06 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:01:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
Message-ID: <A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>

I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.  He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.

Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what I have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.  He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.

So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points for now, at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500 on hand.

Thanks to the group for all the feedback.

From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 10:08:33 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 09:08:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
Message-ID: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum dust
ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter
of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts in
a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other improvements.  He uses a
high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it does not flex, fits tightly
and does not have the problems of most replacement caps available.  He also
supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He says he can run the single points
set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine without scatter.  My unit will be set up
with advance of 18 degrees at idle (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000
rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and the
plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He indicated
that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec for only a few
months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I mentioned that
inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to have cured the
scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the electronic unit
masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.  He will rebuild
these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500 on
hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:17:09 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:17:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>

Good day to all.
IIRC the heat range on NGK plugs run opposite.  The smaller the number is the
hotter plug.  They are opposite to the Champion heat ranges.  Not positive and
I'm sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
HTH
Sam Clark
Tulsa, OK
Green Country Triumphs.

On Oct 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the
> BP6HS is colder.
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at
>> Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new
>> plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google
>> searches as being used for marine applications, though there's
>> nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam
>> that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs
>> are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>>
>> Here's the current spec:
>> non-resistor plug
>> Thread Size: 14mm
>> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>> Hex Size: 13/16"
>> Heat Range: 8
>> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")

From tlizzard at msn.com  Mon Oct 22 10:29:17 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:29:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds11B4FE69806037FF9381DDC37A0@phx.gbl>

Hard to beat NGKs.

Run with what works.



Terry Stetler

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Oct 22 10:40:24 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 18:40:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>

"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:41:06 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:41:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7E8B2A5C62BD-1DE8-187F0@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>

 The 45 has the bigger cap to prevent spark-scatter and some of the caps even
had internal ribs cast inside for that.
The early 45 points type has the asymmetrical cam and the advance is easy to
modify.
For those still using points, the later electronic 45s can be fitted with a
"eurospec" shaft assembly, with late cam and usually less mechanical advance.
HTH
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 12:13 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.



> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter
of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts
in

From fubog1 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:42:28 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:42:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
	<82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7E8B5B2D557D-1DE8-18814@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>

 Yes NGK higher # = colder.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Sam <trdoctor at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 12:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs


Good day to all.
IIRC the heat range on NGK plugs run opposite.  The smaller the number is the
hotter plug.  They are opposite to the Champion heat ranges.  Not positive
and
I'm sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
HTH
Sam Clark
Tulsa, OK
Green Country Triumphs.

On Oct 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the
> BP6HS is colder.
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at
>> Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new
>> plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google
>> searches as being used for marine applications, though there's
>> nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam
>> that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs
>> are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>>
>> Here's the current spec:
>> non-resistor plug
>> Thread Size: 14mm
>> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>> Hex Size: 13/16"
>> Heat Range: 8
>> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 11:01:22 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:01:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
Message-ID: <1174703159.492614.1350925282199.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Chris,

If you like that we'll have to get you out punkin chunkin one of these days.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>, "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 10:40:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues. B He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements. B He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available. B He also supplies rotors (red) made for him. B He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter. B My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6. B He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms. B The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either. B He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason. B I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price. B He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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_______________________________________________
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 11:30:23 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 13:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9ODVroDLepkYBnxy5LVYO0JkejSSD7b=b5s2kAJAwyZjQ@mail.gmail.com>

The NGK BP8HS-10 is a marine plug used in most Yamaha engines.....BR8HS-10
is the Resistor plug....but they work great in TRs also....I run that same
plug in my TR-4 racer and I am happy with it....works great in  boat too !

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at Summit
> Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new plugs.  The
> current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google searches as being
> used for marine applications, though there's nothing in the part number
> that indicates that use.
> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam that the
> engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs are running
> light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>
> Here's the current spec:
> non-resistor plug
> Thread Size: 14mm
> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
> Hex Size: 13/16"
> Heat Range: 8
> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 22 17:42:53 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 19:42:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
Message-ID: <8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>

a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.

afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------

two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fitted in
the future.

All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the FOT in
the midwest.

Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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_______________________________________________
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From list at mackenzie.aero  Mon Oct 22 18:06:10 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 19:06:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4s for Sale in Austin, Texas
Message-ID: <000601cdb0b2$357f60e0$a07e22a0$@aero>

Posting this for a friend who has some cars needing new homes.  Pick them up
on F1 weekend!
************************************************************************
 
Three TR4s for sale
One 1962
One 1963
One 1964
All are red with wire wheels, and all are located at Ron Shimek Auto at 824
Romeria Dr in Austin, very near the DPS office at 2222 and Lamar.  Call me
1st if you'd like to look and either I can meet you there or let Ron know
you are coming by.  He can answer many of your questions about each.
 
All have clear titles and are ready for legal sale
 
Here are the currently available pictures: http://photobucket.com/TR4s  The
unlabeled pix are of the 1962; the other two are labeled with the year
first, then pic number, so you can tell them apart.
 
They are in various conditions:
1962 is ready to drive with new timing chain and new front wheel bearings.
Tires are tired, needs paint and could use some rocker repair, but have all
trim.  Interior is decent, excellent top.  Will need some tinkering with
electrics to get inspected.  Ideally Offers over $9k-I have more than this
into it.
 
The 1963 is ready to restore but has nice correct signal red paint, a couple
spots need wet-sanding down low to eliminate minor runs.  Top ok.  Needs
interior re-do, has metal dash and the speedo and tach were re-worked, ready
to go back into the car.  Except for one small spot bubbling under pain on
hood, car is pretty much rust free.  The car was owned by a retired preacher
in San Antonio, and was garaged for about 10 years.  Motor was started and
ran briefly, but needs carb work.  Unknown condition of other mechanicals,
but have no reason to believe any have major issues ('course, I could be
wrong).  This is a great solid car deserving of a proper resto.  Prefer
Offers over $4k
 
The 1964 has the best paint, though not necessarily Triumph correct red, and
suspect it was originally white.  It has a brand new Triumph interior, red
with white piping.  Best wheels of the 3.  Probably needs head gasket among
other things, likely some clutch and brake hydraulics, too.  Has an
after-market hard top, not sure if it was ever actually attached to car, and
unknown condition of soft top.  I have $8k in this one.
 
Way too much on my plate and need to sell all three-MOTIVATED!  Would be
happy to entertain a package deal for two or all three.
 
Thanks!
 
Dave Foreman
Mobile: 512-576-1933
E: Dave at Beanitos.com; 

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Oct 23 00:55:44 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (Christian Marx)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 23:55:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>

So let me test the word.
A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air
it had been flung?
 Am 23.10.2012 01:43 schrieb "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>:

> a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.
>
> afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fittedin the future.
>
> All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the
> FOT in the midwest.
>
> Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.
>
>
>  Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
>  "flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
> what it means.
> Ah, I see. Catapult language.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net <fot-bounces at autox.team.net?>] Im
> Auftrag von Bill Babcock
> Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
> An: Scott Janzen
> Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.
>
> We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
> the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
> dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
> On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
> He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
> diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
> assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
> improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
> does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
> replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
> says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
> without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
> (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
> >
> > Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> > I
> have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
> stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
> the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
> indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
> for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
> mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
> have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
> electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
> He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
> >
> > So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> > for now,
> at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
> on hand.
> >
> > Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 05:05:34 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:05:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <8CF7F241AF7C0C0-17B0-340CC@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CF7F241AF7C0C0-17B0-340CC@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7F25750DBBA4-17B0-34148@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>

Hmmm... maybe... but the F16 isn't a carrier based aircraft.... (grin)
Glen


A F16 on an aircraft carrier







-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 23, 2012 3:07 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


So let me test the word.

A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air

it had been flung?

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Oct 23 05:32:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 13:32:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com><5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC><A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com><0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com><001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com><8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>

Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
hold back my last message.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
An: Christian Marx
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Will fling, is flinging and has flung.

Scott

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Oct 24 08:53:45 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:53:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com><5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC><A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com><0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com><001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com><8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com><CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
Message-ID: <F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>

This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding! 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:32 AM
To: 'Barr, Scott'; 'Triumph 'Friends ofTriumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
hold back my last message.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
An: Christian Marx
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Will fling, is flinging and has flung.

Scott
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 09:36:00 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:36:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>

 Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.


NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From fubog1 at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 09:36:54 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:36:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion explanation
Message-ID: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

 A statement was made yesterday re an analogy to an F-16 launched off of a
carrier...
I made the perhaps smart-ass comment that the F-16 wasn't carrierbased,
tongue-in-cheek, and my reply bounced back due to too much text.I sent another
shortened reply.
This was apparently interpreted by the OP to having been held by moderator
forbeing offensive in some way. I made it clear in an email to the OP thatit
was in no way intended to be offensive; this was a simplemisunderstanding.
Sorry for the confusion...
Glen

This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!







Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and

hold back my last message.

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Oct 24 10:05:22 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (Christian Marx)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:05:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion explanation
In-Reply-To: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPrGtEMSei=jd92OCL8KN=DDQdK6qnStW0Jz-+kAb6GQVa3o4w@mail.gmail.com>

Was my fault. Did write one word wrong. Instead of our I wrote "your".
So everything is okay with me. :-)

Cheers
Chris
Am 24.10.2012 17:36 schrieb "fubog1" <fubog1 at aol.com>:

>   A statement was made yesterday re an analogy to an F-16 launched off of
> a carrier...
> I made the perhaps smart-ass comment that the F-16 wasn't carrier based,
> tongue-in-cheek, and my reply bounced back due to too much text. I sent
> another shortened reply.
> This was apparently interpreted by the OP to having been held by moderator
> for being offensive in some way. I made it clear in an email to the OP that
> it was in no way intended to be offensive; this was a simple
> misunderstanding.
> Sorry for the confusion...
> Glen
>
> This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
>
>
> hold back my last message.

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed Oct 24 10:12:48 2012
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:12:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFEA44@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

NAME:  Scott Barr
CAR:	Spitfire
CAR #49
OSTHOFF?  Possibly, but I am usually a camper


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE

 Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host
hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP
at ROAD AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This
information will be used by several people or groups.


NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 24 10:30:24 2012
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1351096224.91415.YahooMailNeo@web140603.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

NAME: Ernie Husmann
CAR: Spitfire; 1975 GP Champion
Car #: 4 
Osthoff:
Possible but doubtful
Attend Only: If the car isn't ready
________________________________
 From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To:
fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
Subject: [Fot]
2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
 
Need information for the
usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of
rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help
facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend
and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide
information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.
NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com

From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 24 10:57:13 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:57:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYo9OVJGNWGaZX7t-fnrrw4F-79FiVQ=b0QNzHEKopqWUQ@mail.gmail.com>

Name: Jason Ostrowski
Car: 1969 GT6+
Car #: 27
Osthoff: No

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

>  Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
> SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
> ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
> be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__________________
> CAR____________________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?________________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com

From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed Oct 24 11:01:58 2012
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:01:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FW:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFEA48@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

NAME Russ and Terry Westfall_________________
CAR__TR4A__________________
CAR #__not assigned yet_________________
OSTHOFF? _yes_______________
ATTEND ONLY_______________



From: Russell Westfall [mailto:rwestfall at ymail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 11:40 AM
To: Barr, Scott
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE





--- On Wed, 10/24/12, Barr, Scott <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:


From: Barr, Scott <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
To: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2012, 4:12 PM

NAME:  Scott Barr
CAR:    Spitfire
CAR #49
OSTHOFF?  Possibly, but I am usually a camper


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.ne
t>  [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.ne
t> ] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE

Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host
hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP
at ROAD AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This
information will be used by several people or groups.


NAME_Russ and Terry Westfall_________________
CAR__TR4A__________________
CAR #__not assigned yet_________________
OSTHOFF?_yes_______________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=n197tr4 at cs.com>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net>

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>

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From John.Reed at wilson.com  Wed Oct 24 11:36:40 2012
From: John.Reed at wilson.com (Reed, John)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:36:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CCAD9158.B17E%John.Reed@wilson.com>

On 10/24/12 10:36 AM, "Joe N197TR4" <N197TR4 at cs.com> wrote:

Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.


NAME_ John Reed_________________
CAR  1969 GT6+ Hopefully____________________
CAR #  69___________________
OSTHOFF? Camping________________
ATTEND ONLY I will be there car or no car_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/john.reed at wilson.com




John Reed
Global Staff Photographer
Creative Services

[cid:3433927000_228101709]

Wilson Sporting Goods Co.
8750 W. Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago IL 60631: USA
T: 1 773.714.6895    F: 1 773.714.4585
John.Reed at wilson.com  http://www.wilson.com  http://www.amersports.com



This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are
not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please
notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized
copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this e-mail is strictly
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image.png]

From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 11:44:50 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:44:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDsNzatdezJZvieC3ts_Fex4sVkUNjShT_bH2KDbMPOgA@mail.gmail.com>

Coming this year for sure:

Chuck Arnold
TR6
74
Camping

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 8:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

>  Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
> SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
> ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
> be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__________________
> CAR____________________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?________________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 11:45:11 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 13:45:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <7d3a0.2ccd9b8.3db98327@aol.com>

Return-path: <BillDentin at aol.com>
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Full-name: BillDentin
Message-ID: <1e788.2bede059.3db96ac2 at aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:01:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
To: n197tr4 at cs.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
X-Mailer: 7.0 for Windows sub 10721
X-AOL-IP: 63.3.1.2
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X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain

In a message dated 10/24/2012 10:47:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:


> NAME__Bill Dentinger________________
> CAR____1956 Triumph TR3________________
> CAR #___29________________
> OSTHOFF?______NO Thank You_________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________

From jsnook at wcnet.org  Wed Oct 24 12:03:40 2012
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup
Message-ID: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>

NAME:  Jeff Snook
CAR:  1961 Triumph TR3A
CAR #:  41
OSTHOFF?:  Possibly


Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
419-344-0319 (Mobile)

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 12:51:32 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:51:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] NEWS YOU CAN USE: OSTHOFF NEGOTIATED RATES AND WEBSITE
 KASTNER CUP 2013
Message-ID: <8CF802FB7DCE35C-AA8-2A968@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>

 Note:  Contract has not been signed yet. Do not make reservations
yet.....When contract is signed, make reservations as soon as possible under
'FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH' to ensure desired rooms and best rates.

WEBSITE:  To review floor plans and amenities:    WWW.OSTHOFF.COM

FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH      RATES

'GUEST ROOMS'                   $139.00

'ONE BEDROOM SUITE'       $159.00

'TWO BEDROOM SUITE'      $189.00

'THREE BEDROOM SUITE'  $239.00

HINTS:  LIVING ROOM HAS HIDE-A-BED AND IF YOU HAVE ANY FRIENDS YOU CAN SPLIT
THE COSTS.....MANY OF US ARE.

I will likely sign contract in a week or so.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 24 14:20:13 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:20:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup
In-Reply-To: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>
References: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>
Message-ID: <50884D7D.1050507@bradakis.com>

I'll be there, no car, Osthoff most likely.

mjb.

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Oct 24 17:52:15 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:52:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0FB6C59C-EF86-4765-B812-FEDA1EC7665D@consolidated.net>

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 24, 2012, at 10:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__Ken Gano_________
> CAR_____not a race car_______________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?_____yes___________
> ATTEND ONLY__yes_____________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphs at consolidated.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 24 18:11:59 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:11:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] List problems?
Message-ID: <508883CF.8010606@bradakis.com>

While whacking on the archive issue and stuff I got to thinking.  Are there
any outstanding issues folks are having with this list, unanswered 
nominations
or such?  I tend to get a LOT of team.net mail and sometimes it does 
slip through
the cracks.

mjb.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 24 20:17:56 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 22:17:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W14FDEE2B978DD7F36A2496BA7F0@phx.gbl>

 NAME___Marty Sukey_______________
 CAR_________Spitfire___________
 CAR #_________8__________
 OSTHOFF?______YES__________

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 24 21:15:23 2012
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:15:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] H6 Bell crank
Message-ID: <1351134923.93265.YahooMailNeo@web160901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Does some one have spare H6 Bell crank - Moss # 371-420.  
 
Thanks - Mike
Mehl

From igofaster at att.net  Wed Oct 24 21:53:21 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:53:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fw:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1351137201.71087.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Joe.....





Bobby Whitehead
Triumph GT6
#39
maybe 2 for a Hotel if my wife comes, or camp Triumphette Travel Trailer 
Lodge... 

Try to race, if that doesn't work, Henry will block me in and I'm attending....

starting on a new lump this winter.... soooooo.... you know....

Bobby Whitehead




________________________________

From mpendy at dishmail.net  Thu Oct 25 08:07:06 2012
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (MARKANDGLENDA PENDERGRASS)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:07:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>

Now you know how the rest of us feel when we hire attorneys..........

MP

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 7:53 AM, john hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!
>
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of MadMarx
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:32 AM
> To: 'Barr, Scott'; 'Triumph 'Friends ofTriumph''
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
> hold back my last message.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
> An: Christian Marx
> Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Will fling, is flinging and has flung.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net

From list at mackenzie.aero  Thu Oct 25 09:11:22 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 10:11:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension
Message-ID: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>

Does anybody have a set of re-buildable GT6 MK3 rotoflex rear suspension
parts they don't need anymore?
I am in the process of restoring a car for my wife and the lower control
arms and uprights  I  removed are badly corroded.

Thanks!

Robert MacKenzie
Austin Texas
'79 1500 (street)
'71 GT6 MKIII (project)
'62 Spitfire 4 (race)

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Oct 25 10:53:25 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 09:53:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>

I am disposing of two TR6 transmissions and thought I would offer them to
FOT before posting on eBay [no big hurry to sell].

One is a newly rebuilt close ratio 4 speed.  Has the Dolomite Sprint input
and higher second gear.  New syncros, bearings and 3rd gear. Great racing
four speed.  This has the 1" by 23 spline input shaft, so a different froms
tock clutch plate is needed.  I have a 7.25 Quartermaster dual plate clutch
and two sets of clutch disks [one used a season, one brand new] that I am
willing to include with this transmission.  I would like to get $1100 for
it [the gearsets alone cost $600].  Certainly open to offers.

The second is a 4 speed with A-type overdrive.  This came with my race car
[which was a roller].   I used it twice [but never with the OD as I did not
setup wiring for it].  Bob Cramer had rebuilt this tranny for Richard
Junkermeier [of Wyotech-- the one who built the Ambro for Joe].  I replaced
the solenoid and the plate it attaches to with expectations of using the OD
-- but go the close ratio box instead.  Would like $900 for this one.

I am open to any comments on price or offers to buy.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 11:09:33 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:09:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Tornado Talisman & Lotus Elan reunited...
Message-ID: <13414.6938b3e4.3dbacc4d@aol.com>

Amici...

While I have not seen it yet, there is an extensive article in the November 
issue of MONTHLY CLASSIC (UK) about the Tornado Talisman and the Lotus 
Elan.  Back in the early 1960s they were both being 'birthed' at the same time 
when Tornado Cars and Lotus were competitors.  It is my understanding that at 
one time Tornado Cars was bigger than Lotus and the Tornado Cars models all 
used many Triumph parts.  Below is a copy of a letter to the MONTHLY 
CLASSIC editor from Bill Woodhouse (one of the Tornado Cars founders) about the 
article, and I thought it might be of interest to some FOT folk.

> On 17 Oct 2012, at 11:10 am, Bill & Ann Woodhouse wrote:
> 
> >> Needless to say I read your excellent November issue with more than 
>> usual interest and thank you for the eight pages of superb photographs and 
>> details.
>> 
>> One point though mystifies me;  on page 3, under the Tornado Talisman - 
>> Essential Checks is stated:-
>> "Rear hubs are prone to movement causing bearing wear."  The two Triumph 
>> hubs, as you explain are "Arc welded" back to back and movement here is 
>> impossible.  The two big ball bearings that Tornado uses, as opposed to the 
>> single one Triumph uses, are a push fit into machined recesses, each end 
>> of the trunnion, five inches apart and retained by a plate incorporating a 
>> grease seal.  There is no possibility of movement here.
>> 
>> I have to wonder whether whoever made this remark is confusing the 
>> necessity to check the torque of the wheel hub retaining nut on a new assembly 
>> after 500 miles.  The morse taper fit wheel hub and drive shaft, after 
>> bedding in, needs nipping up to 45 lbs/feet torque.   I am not alone in 
>> overlooking this after my rebuild, with disastrous results.  I was severely 
>> reprimanded by my old Engineering Foreman, Eric Martin, for not reading the 
>> owner's manual I had written in 1961, deservedly so.  Other owners have made 
>> this oversight.  The warning presumably also applies to all Heralds, 
>> Vitesse and Spitfires!
>> 
>> 
>> Yours,
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Woodhouse

From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 11:20:52 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:20:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Tornado Talisman & Spitfire reprise...
Message-ID: <13aef.56948b4.3dbacef4@aol.com>

Amici...

Being an early TR3 racer, much of this is GREEK to me, but here is some
more concerning that CLASSIC MONTHLY article and Tornado Cars ties to TRIUMPH,
the editor, Gary Stretton, got back to Tornado Cars founder, Bill Woodhouse,
and his response included:

<<< Interesting point you make re the rear hubs. I'll see if we can clarify
the statement. I'm a Spitfire owner myself but I'm not familiar with the
Tornado setup. Sounds as if the setups have been confused. >>>

to which Bill Woodhouse then responded:

<<< Dear Gary,

No apologies needed.

As a Spitfire owner you will be familiar with the outer trunnion on your
drive shaft.  As I couldn't bring myself to accept the geometry of a swing
axle with a high roll centre I had Hardy Spicer make articulated drive shafts.
To support the final short end of the drive shaft I simply welded the
Triumph trunnions back to back, dispensed with the roller bearing but used the
two big outer ball bearings, packing the space between with grease.  The two
vertical swinging arms that attached the Triumph trunnion to the transverse
leaf spring I welded to the now back to back trunnions but downwards to
locate my lower transverse swinging arms, thus utilising all Standard Triumph
parts.

If you have a copy of Martyn Morgan Jones' excellent book "Winds of Change"
you will see reproduced a surprisingly good cut-away drawing by "Sports Car
Graphic" in the States (April 1962) which shows very clearly the
fabrication I am talking about.

I could do a sketch for you if needed.

Hope this will help with any future comments.

You most certainly did a wonderful head-to-head comparison.  What surprised
me is that an Elan S1 is valued at #30.000 to #40,000 in good condition.  I
have asked my insurers to reassess the agreed valuation of my Talisman!

All the very best,

Bill Woodhouse

From igofaster at att.net  Wed Oct 24 21:42:05 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:42:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351136525.61646.YahooMailRC@web182204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

correct me if I'm wrong...but AN F16 is an Air Force weapon of mass destruction, 
not Navy...

now fling an F18 and you're talking Hornets!

Bobby




________________________________
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, October 23, 2012 2:07:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

So let me test the word.
A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air
it had been flung?
Am 23.10.2012 01:43 schrieb "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>:

> a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.
>
> afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-
>
> two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fittedin 
>the future.
>
> All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the
> FOT in the midwest.
>
> Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.
>
>
>  Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
>  "flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
> what it means.
> Ah, I see. Catapult language.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net 
><fot-bounces at autox.team.net?>] Im
> Auftrag von Bill Babcock
> Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
> An: Scott Janzen
> Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.
>
> We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
> the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
> dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
> On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
> He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
> diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
> assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
> improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
> does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
> replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
> says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
> without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
> (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
> >
> > Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> > I
> have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
> stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
> the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
> indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
> for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
> mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
> have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
> electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
> He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
> >
> > So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> > for now,
> at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
> on hand.
> >
> > Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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_______________________________________________
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From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 25 15:57:36 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 14:57:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>
References: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>
Message-ID: <1351202256.99438.YahooMailRC@web182205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Robert,,,,  I have some for you but it's going to cost you a 5th of Patron and a 
case of Original Coors.... now...  that's a whole new can of worms about beer 
and tequila I'm sure...
contact me off list...
Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: Robert MacKenzie <list at mackenzie.aero>
To: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, October 25, 2012 10:20:33 AM
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension

Does anybody have a set of re-buildable GT6 MK3 rotoflex rear suspension
parts they don't need anymore?
I am in the process of restoring a car for my wife and the lower control
arms and uprights  I  removed are badly corroded.

Thanks!

Robert MacKenzie
Austin Texas
'79 1500 (street)
'71 GT6 MKIII (project)
'62 Spitfire 4 (race)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 25 16:00:17 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 15:00:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351202417.17228.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

the first one would be a great upgrade for the GT6 by the way for a GT6 guy or 
gal that wants a better way to go... I've got a very similar one waiting if I 
ever try to use it... the close ratio gears would be the bomb...

Bobby




________________________________
From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan at gmail.com>
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, October 25, 2012 11:53:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay

I am disposing of two TR6 transmissions and thought I would offer them to
FOT before posting on eBay [no big hurry to sell].

One is a newly rebuilt close ratio 4 speed.  Has the Dolomite Sprint input
and higher second gear.  New syncros, bearings and 3rd gear. Great racing
four speed.  This has the 1" by 23 spline input shaft, so a different froms
tock clutch plate is needed.  I have a 7.25 Quartermaster dual plate clutch
and two sets of clutch disks [one used a season, one brand new] that I am
willing to include with this transmission.  I would like to get $1100 for
it [the gearsets alone cost $600].  Certainly open to offers.

The second is a 4 speed with A-type overdrive.  This came with my race car
[which was a roller].   I used it twice [but never with the OD as I did not
setup wiring for it].  Bob Cramer had rebuilt this tranny for Richard
Junkermeier [of Wyotech-- the one who built the Ambro for Joe].  I replaced
the solenoid and the plate it attaches to with expectations of using the OD
-- but go the close ratio box instead.  Would like $900 for this one.

I am open to any comments on price or offers to buy.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley
_______________________________________________

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 16:14:28 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 17:14:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
Message-ID: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>

Good day to all,
I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to the
floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
(without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without any
problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines out
with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got the
car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long story
short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion of
the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.  Anyone
else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line especially
since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look at
the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so I
put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
TIA,

From BillDentin at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 12:39:37 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 14:39:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
Message-ID: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>

Amici...

I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and it 
includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph 
Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each 
Spitfire model.

A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in 
particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled look 
on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the engine 
compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But 
then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.

Bill (Damdinger)

From jason at multivintage.com  Sun Oct 28 12:55:38 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 18:55:38 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
References: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.20.1351450482.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

Its just the opposite when you are in your TR3.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 14:39:37 
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...

Amici...

I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and it 
includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph 
Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each 
Spitfire model.

A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in 
particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled look 
on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the engine 
compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But 
then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.

Bill (Damdinger)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 14:13:09 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:13:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcHJOCpFK0FR5vFX4VKTFtCfxjVb_2fSb+6TFqLy8SK5Dw@mail.gmail.com>
	<9E5AFC6C-C7CE-43B8-B884-11BF0C4ED962@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <183197DA-F760-42E4-A231-6BE4FA30EF72@aol.com>

Problem solved.  It was the master cylinder.  Pedal holds firm at a stop.  I
might need to re-bleed later since I'm using silicone fluif but it is
roadworthy once again.
On Oct 28, 2012, at 1:28 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:

> It may not be the one-way booster valve but something inside the booster,
such as a seal or O-ring.
>
> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 8:06 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
> No.  That has never been my experience.  The idle does not change with the
foot on or off the pedal.
> Sam
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 5:38 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Did you check the brake vacuum boster for air leaks in that unit.?  That
would cause the pedal to drop.
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>> Good day to all,
>> I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
>> would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to
the
>> floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
>> replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
>> (without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
>> cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without
any
>> problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines
out
>> with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got
the
>> car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long
story
>> short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion
of
>> the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.
Anyone
>> else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line
especially
>> since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look
at
>> the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so
I
>> put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
>> TIA,
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com

From stutzmans at comcast.net  Sun Oct 28 15:39:47 2012
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 17:39:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
References: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1DD217D29F44B769B1A48D87B0A8C91@ComputerPC>

The Summer 2012 edition of the Toronto Triumph Club's RAGTOP also has a good 
50 years of Spitfire article.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 2:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...


> Amici...
>
> I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and 
> it
> includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph
> Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each
> Spitfire model.
>
> A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in
> particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled 
> look
> on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the 
> engine
> compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But
> then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net

From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 12:52:34 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:52:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and floors
Message-ID: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>

I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting the
car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills together
on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on the
new frame.

Here is the link.  See page 75/76

http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
r4&f=false

Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?

Thx

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

From mmoore at wave1.net  Mon Oct 29 13:55:09 2012
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:55:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009401cdb60f$4d3a6650$e7af32f0$@net>

I did same to my street car and kept car together so I could keep everything
aligned easier. Fastened braces across top of door openings to keep proper
shape and then replaced one side at a time.

Thanks
Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
Fax:        814-864-7383


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 2:53 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and floors

I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back
together on the new frame.

Here is the link.  See page 75/76

http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
c
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5S
ement+rotted+k&hl=
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
t
r4&f=false

Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?

Thx

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore at wave1.net

From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon Oct 29 14:41:46 2012
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:41:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>

Tyler
I have done many of these.
I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross 
brace.
I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top 
deck including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front 
corner.
I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
Glenn

On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting the
> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills together
> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on the
> new frame.
>
> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>
> http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
> ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
> en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
> r4&f=false
>
> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>
> Thx
>
> Ty
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net

From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 15:06:02 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:06:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
Message-ID: <67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>

Thanks Glenn!

Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as well
as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place that?
Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.

I would enjoy seeing your pics!

Thx

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net

From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 16:34:57 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:34:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
Message-ID: <6EE8C791-AF9B-40BE-B621-5A331C318744@yahoo.com>

Folks.

Glenn was a great help and documented the process for me with some pics and
pointers. I also received many comments from others directly.  Many thanks to
everyone.  As always, this list is so valuable.

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you we
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net

From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Oct 29 17:02:18 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:02:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] PCV valves
In-Reply-To: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351551738.36217.YahooMailRC@web184802.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Generally where are folks using PCV valves?  Both of my Triumphs are
carburated 
TR6s.  Where is it better to have a PCV valve that a straight hose
to do with 
motor breathing?  Thanks, Jim

From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Oct 29 17:04:33 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:04:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It was 
pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the m/c 
and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm wondering if 
I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the 
rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on this. 
Jim 

From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Oct 29 17:33:35 2012
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 19:33:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9815E22E-0CF7-4E38-B0A7-7BD26A8814BC@seiri.com>

My solution was a new reservoir after trying to clean things up and replacing
the seals four or five times.

On Oct 29, 2012, at 19:04, sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net> wrote:

> On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It
was
> pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the
m/c
> and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm
wondering if
> I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the
> rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on
this.
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Oct 29 20:02:44 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:02:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
	<67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>

Ty,
	I have some of the lifting plates as shown in the Triumph Workshop
Manual for lifting the body off the frame that I cut out of 14 Ga. plate I
think and then drilled and bent to do the job.  I think I have an extra set
or I can send mine and you can return when done.  If you think they would be
of help, let me know.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:06 PM
To: Glenn Franco
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
floors

Thanks Glenn!

Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as
well
as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place that?
Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.

I would enjoy seeing your pics!

Thx

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about
splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together
on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
c
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl
=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 21:04:36 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:04:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
	<67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
	<000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>
Message-ID: <5BBA370E-A2D0-4FFA-891A-6698301802E6@yahoo.com>

Jim Lent me some lifting plates as well so I think I am good.  Thank you for
the offer.

Ty

Tyler Thompson l National Account Executive - Public Safety Sector
esri | One International Court | Broomfield, CO 80021
Phone: 303.449-7779 ext. 8260, cell: 719.510-1649 |
E-mail: tyler_thompson at esri.com


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 8:02 PM, "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com> wrote:

> Ty,
>    I have some of the lifting plates as shown in the Triumph Workshop
> Manual for lifting the body off the frame that I cut out of 14 Ga. plate I
> think and then drilled and bent to do the job.  I think I have an extra set
> or I can send mine and you can return when done.  If you think they would
be
> of help, let me know.
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:06 PM
> To: Glenn Franco
> Cc: Friends of triumph
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
> floors
>
> Thanks Glenn!
>
> Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as
> well
> as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place
that?
> Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.
>
> I would enjoy seeing your pics!
>
> Thx
>
> Ty
>
> Sent from my iPad
> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>
> On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Tyler
>> I have done many of these.
>> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
>> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
> brace.
>> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
>> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
>> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
> including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
>> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
>> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
>> Glenn
>>
>> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about
> splitting
> the
>>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
> together
>>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together
> on
> the
>>> new frame.
>>>
>>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
> c
>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl
> =
>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
> t
>>> r4&f=false
>>>
>>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>>
>>> Thx
>>>
>>> Ty
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From gaf3 at charter.net  Tue Oct 30 01:45:15 2012
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 03:45:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <508F858B.6080200@charter.net>

Jim
I have had many of these leak.
Replacements reservoirs work but some are just as bad as the one that leaks.
I have had new Master Cylinders leak in that location as well.
It's a poor design.
I have had some success using a slightly larger section O-ring in place 
of the square cut rubber seals.
You might want to try that before you buy a reservoir.
Glenn
On 10/29/2012 7:04 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It was
> pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the m/c
> and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm wondering if
> I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the
> rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on this.
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Wed Oct 31 20:54:16 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 19:54:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] John Fitch
Message-ID: <1351738456.92490.YahooMailClassic@web181401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The FOT has been very quiet with many of its members at the VTR Nationals in Galveston Texas. For those who may not have heard, John Fitch passed away this morning. 
With his passing goes a great fighter pilot, sports car driver, Indy car driver, and a member of the Cunningham team at LeMans with Phil Walters during the big crash in '55.
RIP
-Ed-

From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 31 21:36:57 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 03:36:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Friendly Hauntings From: FGR.
Message-ID: <mailman.23.1351740956.32719.fot@autox.team.net>

An eerie web forms about now on our cars here in the Midwest.
Drained of their fluid and void of their blood.
Like Vampires, tonight; these Triumphs hunger for lube. A long sleep (perhaps restless) awaits the cold steel and silent horse power of my poor unheated-garage kept mechanical demon. Killing it... on Halloween night, I drain the fluid from my beloved GT6. 
Surely this cold evening, all hallow's eve, might it find a source of life, to get through the long cold wInter?
Happy Halloween.
FRIENDLY GHOST RACING
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From vintageautoservice at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  1 10:59:48 2012
From: vintageautoservice at yahoo.com (Guy Morter)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 09:59:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 frames
Message-ID: <1349110788.14055.YahooMailClassic@web162204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hello fot,
Anyone know if the TR3 frames are all the same from year to year?
Thanks
Guy Morter
Vintage Auto Service
262 573 4511

Flatheads Forever!


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Oct  2 14:59:39 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2012 16:59:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
Message-ID: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>

the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap when the car is running.
It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.

Ideas on where to start?


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Oct  2 15:57:34 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 21:57:34 +0000
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>

Check to see if the cross over pipe is plugged as that will make the inlets
pulse. There is no power gain having hte cross over plugged.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 16:59:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
>
> the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap
when the car is running.
> It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.
>
> Ideas on where to start?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 16:31:13 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 18:31:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <18258D64-9044-4400-ADF9-00E6194165C6@aol.com>

A friends bugeye had the same problem.  Solution was to raise the idle to
about 1700.  After all it was a race engine.

Chris

On Oct 2, 2012, at 4:59 PM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap
when the car is running.
> It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.
>
> Ideas on where to start?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Oct  2 18:25:47 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 20:25:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <5468320c-3a59-449a-8640-9ce323d2aee3@blur>

Scott, what model SU's - H6 or HS6? Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 2, 2012 20:59:39 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question

the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter  
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the  
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic  
cap when the car is running.
It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it  
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper  
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.

Ideas on where to start?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Oct  3 07:58:53 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 09:58:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
Message-ID: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Wed Oct  3 08:40:00 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 10:40:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 cam
Message-ID: <CALsVEtAyCc2Q0-qx4PoDz5tC=bSimpAjOAVDV17UthP0s03Mtg@mail.gmail.com>

I found a new (or freshly reground) cam in my spares bin that is marked on
the box as "TR-3 cam", and is stamped on the end with "M 13".  None of the
other cams I have are stamped except racing cams.  Does M 13 on a TR3 cam
mean anything to anyone?  Don


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Oct  3 09:09:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:09:02 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000901cda179$06fc86a0$14f593e0$@com>

Replace them with ARP bolts if possible.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von marty sukey
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 3. Oktober 2012 15:59
An: FOT
Betreff: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested
and size checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the
tightening requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod
bolts when new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure
they have not been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length
measurement.  I would just replace them all for good measure but I was
quoted a price of $56 per bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the
original bolts IF they are still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods
of determining if these rod bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts
are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 09:22:50 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 11:22:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000f01cda17a$f3d4bd20$db7e3760$@rr.com>

Marty, I was looking this up in my docs. I knew I had the info somewhere.

First off, the original length of the bolts when new isn't what they're
talking about. Those bolts are reusable AND as you found out SUPER
expensive. They are referring to the delta between the "0" torque length and
the measured length as you tighten them. There is a special tool to do this
with which I used the first few builds. What I did was document what the
torque was when I achieved that level of stretch. I have the same rods you
do. It worked out that 38 to 39 Ft lbs yielded a .007" stretch which is what
you want. The condition of this is that you use the ARP moly lube on the
threads. Do not do this with dry threads. 

Hope this helps-sorry for the delay.

Russ Moore



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 9:59 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested
and size checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the
tightening requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod
bolts when new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure
they have not been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length
measurement.  I would just replace them all for good measure but I was
quoted a price of $56 per bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the
original bolts IF they are still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods
of determining if these rod bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts
are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From sjanzen at me.com  Wed Oct  3 09:49:56 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 11:49:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <80EEC632-AE6F-450C-A20A-2F1C06C62BC1@me.com>

I over-streched a couple of these once by using ARP lube, which is much slicker than the lube Carillo recommends.  Make sure you use the right stuff - I think it's a moly Loctite product, which I found at Pep Boys, though Carrillo now sells their own brand.  My experience is that if they have been over-stretched, when you tighten them to the correct torque they will stretch more than indicated, or conversely if you tighten to the correct stretch it won't take enough torque.  They are dinky little bolts and the required torque is quite low.  So, if you tighten to 215 inch-pounds and they stretch as indicated, they should still be good.

Ridiculously expensive, too!  I wonder if you couldn't replace them with an ARP product for less?

On Oct 3, 2012, at 9:58 AM, marty sukey wrote:

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com


From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 09:50:37 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 09:50:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Message-ID: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>

The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
doesn't engage.

So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.

With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.

What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
(voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
at 12.75)?

I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
other?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)


From sjanzen at me.com  Wed Oct  3 10:05:54 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 12:05:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
	<SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <07073BE7-AC59-43F0-A355-2C95332E145B@me.com>

Many good responses and things to check out - will report back when a conclusion is reached.  In the meantime, putting a replacement diff in the GT6 for Watkins Glen next weekend.


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Wed Oct  3 10:39:51 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:39:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 cam ID
Message-ID: <CALsVEtCfL0wkEx8=Fea+PhCTqCRcDqriAe8zDnWDokBcBrJvjw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to Michael Porter, I have identified the TR3 mystery cam.

It was done by American Cam Grinding in LA back in the early 80s.
 According to the guy I talked to at their shop, it was a popular hot
street grind "back in the day" and is still pretty popular now.  I happen
to have the engine for my TR3 in the shop waiting to be reassembled, so
this will probably go into that one.  When I took it out of the box it was
wrapped in a LA racing sheet from 1982, so that's how long it's been
sitting around waiting for a home.  Don


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Wed Oct  3 12:06:23 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 14:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <92364BCD-A756-4843-9564-C44643630C60@bellsouth.net>

A high impedance 3rd/4th gear selector switch?

 
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
> doesn't engage.
> 
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
> 
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
> 
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
> at 12.75)?
> 
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
> other?
> 
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> 
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tarch at bellsouth.net


From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 12:20:13 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:20:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <58EE04CF-45E1-400B-A1BE-A8FD818D8BF8@yahoo.com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<58EE04CF-45E1-400B-A1BE-A8FD818D8BF8@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <991B8580-071E-4E5B-B1DF-70E65A16380A@comcast.net>

Yes there's a relay and it clicks when the OD selector switch is  
thrown. It passes all the voltage tests for the brown, the white, the  
yellow purple wires. I get voltage through it to the yellow purple  
wire right to the solenoid. I suspected it too since it was the last  
thing I did to the OD circuit but that was over a year ago and it  
worked up until now.


Bud



Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 12:00 PM, Yahoo wrote:

> Isn't there a relay between the column and the solenoid?
>
> Ty
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> '63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
> '62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
> ++++
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 9:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 12:49:15 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>

Sounds like a grounding problem.  Did you measure the voltage at the
solenoid between the bullet connector and the ground of the battery?  I
would also try running a ground wire direct from the battery to the "case"
or ground of the solenoid and trying that.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:51 AM
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem

The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
doesn't engage.

So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.

With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.

What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
(voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
at 12.75)?

I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
other?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 12:49:15 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001cda197$c9cd6ff0$5d684fd0$@com>

I recently installed Carrillo rods in the TR4 engine.  The bolts are 3/8
inch SPS CARR S6's and are marked "S6-S-A13".
The free length was 1.850 and a stretch of 0.007 inch required 50 FT-LB of
torque.  I used the Loctite anti-Seize compound supplied by Carrillo.  I
would think Carrillo could give you the length of the new S4 (1/4 inch)
bolt. If your bolts are within a couple of thousandths of that dimension you
would be okay.  If they are beyond the 0.007 stretch then they have been
over torqued beyond their yield point and would have to be replaced.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 8:59 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and
size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have
not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these
rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 12:56:13 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:56:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>
Message-ID: <96F0F1D3-E0BC-4E61-A245-EDDD39282E9F@comcast.net>

Yes I tested it and got continuity from the solenoid body to the  
transmission and to the body. As far as I can tell the solenoid  
grounds itself with the bolts used to attach it to it's bracket on the  
OD. I'll try to ground it at known working ground locations like the  
battery itself.

Thanks
Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 12:49 PM, Tim Murphy wrote:

> Sounds like a grounding problem.  Did you measure the voltage at the
> solenoid between the bullet connector and the ground of the  
> battery?  I
> would also try running a ground wire direct from the battery to the  
> "case"
> or ground of the solenoid and trying that.
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:51 AM
> To: FOT List
> Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
>
> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
> doesn't engage.
>
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Oct  3 13:01:15 2012
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 15:01:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>

It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would get 12v
but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the voltage with the
solenoid on and off.

On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
> doesn't engage.
>
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 13:16:55 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap  
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the  
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay  
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the  
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to  
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing  
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would  
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the  
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> bownes at web9.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 16:13:36 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:13:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
	<AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001cda1b4$560c8a20$02259e60$@com>

I'm assuming that when you tested the solenoid on a separate battery you
were putting the 12 volts to the bullet connector and the ground or negative
battery terminal to the case of the solenoid.  That being the case, the
bullet connector to the soldered connection on the solenoid appears to be
good.

Using alligator clips, connect the positive or red lead of the voltmeter to
the bullet connector on the solenoid wire and the negative or black lead of
the voltmeter to the negative terminal of the battery (Ground).   Now flip
the OD switch to "ON".  If there is a low voltage at the solenoid it is due
to high resistance, such as bad contacts in the relay, between the solenoid
and the positive terminal of the battery.  The voltage is being dropped
across the high resistance with very little current and you are getting low
voltage at the solenoid.

If when you flip the OD switch to "ON" and get 12 volts at the solenoid but
it does not "pick up" or energize, you have an open ground circuit between
the solenoid and the negative battery terminal and no current flowing the
solenoid.

Seeing as how you have tried 2 different solenoids it would seem unlikely to
have 2 with intermittent ground contact inside the solenoid itself.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 2:17 PM
To: Bob Bownes - Seiri
Cc: FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap  
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the  
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay  
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the  
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to  
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing  
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would  
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the  
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 21:36:34 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 21:36:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
Message-ID: <mailman.172.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 06:52:11 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 06:52:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
In-Reply-To: <000001cda211$124bbe70$36e33b50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.173.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Thanks Russ but I'll do my own flow bench work. If we didn't reinvent the
wheel we would all still be running around with wooden spokes.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfire Racing [mailto:spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2012 3:17 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Jim,
I believe there were a few different castings and among them was a variation
in thicknesses. I ran into this on Spitfire heads also. I had done what you
are suggesting and had what I thought was accurate information on how I
could mill and port the head. I ruined a head right off the bat due to a
casting variation. I found there wasn't a lot of consistency through
production runs.
You might want to check with Tony Drews. I believe he and Jack had done all
this and come up with the hot ticket. No point trying to reinvent the wheel
if it's already done.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 11:37 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com


From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  4 09:13:11 2012
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (CHIP COLLINGWOOD)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 16:13:11 +0100 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <16923803.1349363591018.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXOuT7qr: Permission denied


From rikrock at live.com  Thu Oct  4 14:56:57 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 16:56:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
Message-ID: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>

Amici,

Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is to
put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?

Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.

Thanks!

Rich Rock


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Oct  4 14:46:28 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 15:46:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
In-Reply-To: <20121004044655.E0D892C0C87@autox.team.net>
References: <20121004044655.E0D892C0C87@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001b01cda271$54336170$fc9a2450$@com>

I believe we have a head that you could use.  It is cracked and has about
.200 or more milled off of it by the previous owner.  I'd have to check the
numbers on the head to make sure it is what you are looking for and could
send a photo also.  We are in Wisconsin so the shipping charge might be a
bit high.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:37 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu Oct  4 16:46:51 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>

We use 2&3

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> Amici,
>
> Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
to
> put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
>
> Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Oct  4 21:15:59 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 22:15:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.174.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I use 1 and 4 but don't have a solid reason why that would be better 
or worse than 2 & 3.  4's the one that usually has problems if one of 
the cylinders is going to have a problem, I suppose.

Tony

At 05:46 PM 10/4/2012, John Hasty wrote:
>We use 2&3
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
>to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Oct  4 21:35:12 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 03:35:12 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>,
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 23:02:11 2012
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 22:02:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <506E69D3.8050206@comcast.net>

I put them in 1 and 4 on the Spit. Worked fine on the chassis dyno where 
they have fans blowing all over the place to keep stuff cool.  On the 
track, the 1 reads 150-200 degrees colder than 4 because of the airflow 
through the radiator and under the hood, etc making the results useless 
for making adjustments.  I'd suggest 2 & 3, but haven't tried it. I took 
off the # 1 probe and am adding an o2 sensor instead. Haven't got that 
done yet either.

On 10/4/2012 3:46 PM, John Hasty wrote:
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
>> Amici,
>>
>> Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
>> put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
>> cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
>>
>> Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Rich Rock
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 08:15:54 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Kas,

Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because

with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.

I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row

that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed

water jacket.

If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?

Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow

this winter.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3. B Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
B > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4. B The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four. B Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders? B Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system B is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Oct  5 09:21:03 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 15:21:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>,
	<1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W1390EC9EBD0FDD2D235911DF8B0@phx.gbl>

After all my inspections and deliberating and worrying and looking I never
found a reason,  but if I had a problem it would genrally be number three.

Never be beaten by equipment
 Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: kaskas at cox.net
CC: fot at autox.team.net; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

Kas,
Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because
with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.
I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row
that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed
water jacket.
If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?
Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow
this winter.
jim g





From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From rikrock at live.com  Fri Oct  5 13:43:51 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 15:43:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
Message-ID: <COL401-EAS204271B83F35CFDB97A1D68C68B0@phx.gbl>

Thanks everyone for all the info!

Who's going to the VRG event at Watkins Glen next weekend?

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: Kas Kastner
Sent: 10/5/2012 11:21 AM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Cc: fot; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?


After all my inspections and deliberating and worrying and looking I never
found a reason,  but if I had a problem it would genrally be number three.

Never be beaten by equipment
 Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: kaskas at cox.net
CC: fot at autox.team.net; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

Kas,
Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because
with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.
I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row
that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed
water jacket.
If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?
Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow
this winter.
jim g





From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Oct  5 20:01:22 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri,  5 Oct 2012 20:01:22 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
Message-ID: <20121006020122.EBF142E07B@bradakis.com>

The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for
many years is failing.  I'm working on replacing it with a brand
new Actiontec unit.  It is not going well.  There are some issues
with the new modem that need to be resolved.

So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few
minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply
the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware.

I appreciate your patience.

mjb.


From kenandtweety at yahoo.com  Sat Oct  6 06:33:51 2012
From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 05:33:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
In-Reply-To: <20121006020122.EBF142E07B@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1349526831.1824.YahooMailClassic@web111403.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Mark,
  If the BFH doesn't do it use my favorite, THE HOT WRENCH.
Ken Suhre

--- On Fri, 10/5/12, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:


From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
Subject: [Fot] List availability
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, October 5, 2012, 9:01 PM


The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for
many years is failing.  I'm working on replacing it with a brand
new Actiontec unit.  It is not going well.  There are some issues
with the new modem that need to be resolved.

So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few
minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply
the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware.

I appreciate your patience.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Sat Oct  6 09:26:29 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 11:26:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
Message-ID: <1b5.6aec2ab7.3da1a7a4@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/06/2012 8:41:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
kenandtweety at yahoo.com writes:


> Mark,
>   If the BFH doesn't do it use my favorite, THE HOT WRENCH.
> 

Ken...

How would using a hot wench help?

I guess it wouldn't hurt.

Bill Dentinger


From ac at camoletti.ch  Sat Oct  6 14:25:27 2012
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 22:25:27 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
In-Reply-To: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
References: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>

Dear Larry! I am back into my FOT inbox, not read since Feb this year!
10-14h per day at work, then workshop (or bed) and week ends 15-20h in the
shop, so no email time, except for orders etc.
Now I try to catch up. Hope you are well !
Regarding the subject of your email below (Oct 15 2011): I plugged in my
Innovate LM-2 with RPM and other sensors. Works perfectly fine. Had read
horrible stories about RPM, impossible to read, bouncing all he time, etc.
I simply used exclusively HQ screened cable (each wire being self screened,
then the whole cable is screened again ) to feed 12V to the LM2 and same
cable for the sensors. With soldering, not crimps or split in. And a common
negative all to bat negative via the screened cable. Such cable is
expensive, like 5 per yard, but it works just perfectly, RMP is stable and
accurate within 10rpm, sensors as well and the software LogWorks works fine
too.
Did you manage to get your Innovate stuff work with the dyno?
What about camshafts ? Id' love to get yours for the TR3-4!
Cheers!
Alex

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de Larry Young
Envoyi : samedi 15 octobre 2011 23:59
@ : FOT
Cc : Tom Young
Objet : [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?

Does anyone have experience with data acquisition using hardware from
Innovate Motorsports?

Some friends and I are bringing an old water brake dyno back to life for
some engine testing. The data acquisition stuff at Innovate Motorsports
looked good and they could furnish everything we needed.  We bought a
pressure transducer to get torque (thru force using a hydraulic cylinder), a
Hall effect sensor to get RPM, and a wide band oxygen sensor for AFR.  These
are connected through an interface "box" which goes to an RS232 port using
USB to RS232 cable.

We've had nothing but problems with their system.  We had to return the
interface box once already to be fixed (which took about 3 weeks).
After that we were able to get pressure, but it often loses its settings and
must be reset.  We get RPM a few seconds before it craps out. No AFR.  The
whole system is flaky.  I am now sending the box and sensors back a second
time.  I think the interface box still has problems. I can't decide whether
to give up on them completely. It seems like it shouldn't be this difficult.

Does anyone else have experience with this company? Do you have a different
company you would recommend? I realize this is a little different from data
acquisition for racing, since we are going direct to the computer, but
thought some of you might have a suggestion.

TIA, Larry Young
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From ac at camoletti.ch  Sat Oct  6 15:25:44 2012
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 23:25:44 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS
In-Reply-To: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004101cda409$25a873b0$70f95b10$@camoletti.ch>

Hi Joe! Is this rear mount available finally ?
Thank you for your reply!
Kind regards
AlexC

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de Joe Alexander
Envoyi : vendredi 9 mars 2012 15:25
@ : fot at autox.team.net
Objet : [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS

 FOT,

For 20 years we have dealt with various motor mounts at the transmission.
Once we replaced a motor mount at Road America with material available.....a
pine 2 x 4.  We are not sure if that wasnt the best one we had to that
point.

Sean got tired of fiddling with substandard mounts and designed his own.  He
will be installing for use at Road Atlanta.  But I think he will have 1 or 2
more with him.  It is compatible with the old mount as a direct bolt in
replacement.

If anyone is interested in seeing it, Sean will show and explain. It is
heavy duty, but provides vibration isolation.

He is doing it in SOLIDWORKS for the laser program and has constructed a
mold, so he can produce more if there is a future interest.

It is likely a lifetime rear mount for race or street.

Any one else interested? Please let me know.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From cartravel at pobox.com  Sat Oct  6 15:56:51 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 16:56:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
In-Reply-To: <000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>
References: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
	<000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>
Message-ID: <5070A923.1050401@pobox.com>

A couple of friends and I played several months with the Innovate stuff 
for an engine dyno.  We sent it back to Innovate twice.  Had lots of 
problems with RF interference from all sorts of sources. Was also 
sensitive to the USB to RS-232 conversion cable.  Could never get 
consistent readings with it.  Finally the SSI-4 box quit and we gave up 
rather than sending it back a third time.  Some of their stuff may be 
OK, but our experience trying to record direct to the computer was very bad.

I have still not found a cam grinder.  I have been busy restoring my 
TR250, which is now done and looks great.
Larry Young

On 10/6/2012 3:25 PM, Alexandre Camoletti wrote:
> Dear Larry! I am back into my FOT inbox, not read since Feb this year!
> 10-14h per day at work, then workshop (or bed) and week ends 15-20h in the
> shop, so no email time, except for orders etc.
> Now I try to catch up. Hope you are well !
> Regarding the subject of your email below (Oct 15 2011): I plugged in my
> Innovate LM-2 with RPM and other sensors. Works perfectly fine. Had read
> horrible stories about RPM, impossible to read, bouncing all he time, etc.
> I simply used exclusively HQ screened cable (each wire being self screened,
> then the whole cable is screened again ) to feed 12V to the LM2 and same
> cable for the sensors. With soldering, not crimps or split in. And a common
> negative all to bat negative via the screened cable. Such cable is
> expensive, like 5 per yard, but it works just perfectly, RMP is stable and
> accurate within 10rpm, sensors as well and the software LogWorks works fine
> too.
> Did you manage to get your Innovate stuff work with the dyno?
> What about camshafts ? Id' love to get yours for the TR3-4!
> Cheers!
> Alex
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
> part de Larry Young
> Envoyi : samedi 15 octobre 2011 23:59
> @ : FOT
> Cc : Tom Young
> Objet : [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
>
> Does anyone have experience with data acquisition using hardware from
> Innovate Motorsports?
>
> Some friends and I are bringing an old water brake dyno back to life for
> some engine testing. The data acquisition stuff at Innovate Motorsports
> looked good and they could furnish everything we needed.  We bought a
> pressure transducer to get torque (thru force using a hydraulic cylinder), a
> Hall effect sensor to get RPM, and a wide band oxygen sensor for AFR.  These
> are connected through an interface "box" which goes to an RS232 port using
> USB to RS232 cable.
>
> We've had nothing but problems with their system.  We had to return the
> interface box once already to be fixed (which took about 3 weeks).
> After that we were able to get pressure, but it often loses its settings and
> must be reset.  We get RPM a few seconds before it craps out. No AFR.  The
> whole system is flaky.  I am now sending the box and sensors back a second
> time.  I think the interface box still has problems. I can't decide whether
> to give up on them completely. It seems like it shouldn't be this difficult.
>
> Does anyone else have experience with this company? Do you have a different
> company you would recommend? I realize this is a little different from data
> acquisition for racing, since we are going direct to the computer, but
> thought some of you might have a suggestion.
>
> TIA, Larry Young
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ac at camoletti.ch


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Oct  6 19:47:05 2012
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 11:47:05 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 or Spitfire rear CV axles for sale
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b34Wom=ery8ztc6WXk0mwzagqf7er9Z_NxJ+ug3CFbK3g@mail.gmail.com>

i have a pair of brand new axles with CV's . they came from a front drive
Triumph Toledo I believe. I got them to fit into a GT6 but never used them.
there is also 1 brand new outer drive flange that  has spitfire/GT6 stud
pattern and the inner end of the axle is a taper that matches a rotoflex.
i'm not sure what happened to the other flange

contact me off line if you are interested

thanks, Terry


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Oct  6 19:58:32 2012
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 11:58:32 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 rotoflex rear hubs with disc & TR6 axle setup
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b346AhOnWgmHFKJ3gbxJ4DQOO8pnXv56NWacM9-QPh6=w@mail.gmail.com>

i have a pair of GT6 MK2 rear hubs that have been modified and have TR6
stub axles fitted with custom bearings. machining etc. They have discs and
alloy calipers fitted (with handbrake). they were made years ago by a local
engineer for a GT6 race car project that never got fininshed.
contact me off forum if interested in buying. i can send pics/more info
thanks, Terry (australia)


From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Oct  8 08:36:50 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 09:36:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS
In-Reply-To: <8CECC2737C79339-105C-18F5@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CECC2737C79339-105C-18F5@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3DF1FA5B59CD41FFBADACFB0343C463D@rileyPC>

I used a system like this with an old valve spring between flat washers
for compliance.  A  hole in the right place allows a clevis pin
to hold it all together and make it quick to disassemble when you
need to remove the trans.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: malaboge at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:17 AM
To: n197tr4 at cs.com ; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS

Fellow motor mounties...

Here's something i did ages ago and have never had a mount go "south"
since...and even if it did, it wouldn't matter much other than the fact that
you'll prolly get some additional vibrations.

Drill two holes down thru the metal plate directly below the existing two
holes for the trans mount.  Make the holes maybe a quarter inch bigger in
diameter than the bolt that holds the trans to the mount.  Now get two new
longer bolts, you'll have to measure the length but its prolly 'bout 3"-4"
long.  Drop the new bolts down thru the trans, mount and lower plate.  Run a
nut up against the bottom of the mount so that the trans is bolted to the
mount as usual.  Now put a large washer or two on the end of the bolt that 
is
stickin out thru the plate.  Use a nylock nut on the end and just tighten it
so that the washers touch the plate.

Now if the mount goes away (yeah like that ever happens) the worst that will
happen is that the bolts will allow the trans to move about an eighth of an
inch or so.  This will even help  save the radiator if that tire wall jumps
out directly in front of you!

mounted in nor cal....
Nick



-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 9, 2012 6:25 am
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS


FOT,
For 20 years we have dealt with various motor mounts at the transmission.
nce we replaced a motor mount at Road America with material available.....a
ine 2 x 4.  We are not sure if that wasnt the best one we had to that point.
Sean got tired of fiddling with substandard mounts and designed his own.  He
ill be installing for use at Road Atlanta.  But I think he will have 1 or 2
ore with him.  It is compatible with the old mount as a direct bolt in
eplacement.
If anyone is interested in seeing it, Sean will show and explain. It is 
heavy
uty, but provides vibration isolation.
He is doing it in SOLIDWORKS for the laser program and has constructed a
mold,
o he can produce more if there is a future interest.
It is likely a lifetime rear mount for race or street.
Any one else interested? Please let me know.

Joe Alexander
. R. E.
45 1st Street
esup, Iowa 50648
19.464.4711  (cell)
197tr4 at cs.com
______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
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From igofaster at att.net  Tue Oct  9 17:26:32 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 16:26:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] I wanna race a GT6... again..
Message-ID: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My lovely collection of GT6's yields two blocks, stock bore, never milled...
Should my new pistons be 010 020 030 or 040 over? 
I thought , if something goes wrong I could re-bore... then I realized , 
sometimes, you don't get the chance to re-bore.... 

so 040 over? 
How do you identify a TR6 versus a GT6 crankshaft? 
Should I be really concerned if one crankshaft or main caps was sourced from 
another block... I mean.... are the crankshaft and block bleeding the same dna? 

It's all re manufactured and fabricated...right... 

Bobby Whitehead


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Oct  9 18:28:24 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2012 20:28:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I wanna race a GT6... again..
In-Reply-To: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3E169E1E-D977-4D1B-B105-DF0979D34C91@me.com>

you need to get the block line bored if you mix caps and blocks, good idea to do anyway.  Get the crank nitrided by someone who knows what they are doing, and go with 30 over on the pistons so you get one more chance.  If the cylinders don't need to be bored, leave em stock - no prize money in this!
Crank - need photos or something to compare it to.  If they are side by side the difference is obvious.

On Oct 9, 2012, at 7:26 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:

My lovely collection of GT6's yields two blocks, stock bore, never milled...
Should my new pistons be 010 020 030 or 040 over? 
I thought , if something goes wrong I could re-bore... then I realized , 
sometimes, you don't get the chance to re-bore.... 

so 040 over? 
How do you identify a TR6 versus a GT6 crankshaft? 
Should I be really concerned if one crankshaft or main caps was sourced from 
another block... I mean.... are the crankshaft and block bleeding the same dna? 

It's all re manufactured and fabricated...right... 

Bobby Whitehead
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From clw2000 at msn.com  Wed Oct 10 12:13:46 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 14:13:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
Message-ID: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>

I'm (still) in the planning stage of building my GT6 racer and accumulating
parts and advice.  One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
compliance.  There seems to be a huge variance in what, for example, SVRA will
allow versus HSR (these seem to be the two extremes).  And plenty other orgs
in the middle, VDCA, etc.  There are a lot of great products out there that
are not in the '72 SCCA rulebook.  I'm not looking to "cheat" and I'm trying
to stay true to the original car, but I do want the car to be safe and easy to
work on and tune.  It didn't look like too many of the Mitty Triumphs would
get into the SVRA.  So I'm curious as to some of your perspectives.  Build it
"my way" and then find the org that will take me, or build it "their way" and
not have the best car I can build?  I know it's a matter of personal
preferences, but what are your experiences?  Thanks, Chuck


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Oct  8 08:01:35 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 10:01:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: Spitfire beer
Message-ID: <003001cda55d$6dd09460$4971bd20$@net>

I don't like beer, but this one is pretty cool advertising

Craig

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Spitfire.pps]


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 10 15:49:05 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:

"One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
compliance."

Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too many
other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to share
our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
the car. (baby steps)
Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
info/help you need.
Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
no investment in your project,
but you sure do.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
1969 Triumph GT6+












_______________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Wed Oct 10 16:11:59 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 15:11:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <52A685D7949F4779927E4311542668DB@Bud>

If you are going to race vintage....I recommend that you stay in close touch 
with the eligibility chairman, etc of the sanctioning body that you want 
your car approved for...If you are in doubt about anything...call him for 
advice, and keep a log...
Have fun
Racer Bud..spitfire #21...CSRG
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>
To: "Charles WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
Cc: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>
> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
> compliance."
>
> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too 
> many
> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to 
> share
> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
> the car. (baby steps)
> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
> info/help you need.
> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
> no investment in your project,
> but you sure do.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Oct 10 16:12:43 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:12:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>,
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>

Great letter. Sound all the way. Speaking of sound, you'll love that too.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: clw2000 at msn.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>
> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
> compliance."
>
> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too many
> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to share
> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
> the car. (baby steps)
> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
> info/help you need.
> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
> no investment in your project,
> but you sure do.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Oct 10 20:56:53 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:56:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>

Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2012, at 6:12 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> Great letter. Sound all the way. Speaking of sound, you'll love that too.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
>> From: jason at multivintage.com
>> To: clw2000 at msn.com
>> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
>> compliance."
>>
>> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
>> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too
many
>> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
>> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
>> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
>> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
>> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to
share
>> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
>> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
>> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
>> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
>> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
>> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
>> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
>> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
>> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
>> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
>> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
>> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
>> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
>> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
>> the car. (baby steps)
>> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
>> info/help you need.
>> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
>> no investment in your project,
>> but you sure do.
>>
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> Friendly Ghost Racing
>> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From jaboruch at netzero.com  Wed Oct 10 20:40:35 2012
From: jaboruch at netzero.com (Joe Boruch)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 02:40:35 GMT
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Message-ID: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>

Bud, have you tried another relay?  I had a bad relay on my street TR4 and I
seem to recall that it behaved similarly.  When I ran an OD in my race TR3 I
did not use the relay, just used a heavy duty switch.  One less thing to go
wrong.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
Cc: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/
>> bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net


____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 10 21:56:29 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:56:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>

 -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hasty
>
>
> "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
> drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
> violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
> fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules."


John,

No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy for
looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season. And
quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems to
be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars with
lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by certain
German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least a limited
access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm not condoning
any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our TRIUMPH FRIENDs that
are developing various modern solutions to help with obvious difficulty in
trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From tr4.tony at virgin.net  Thu Oct 11 02:33:31 2012
From: tr4.tony at virgin.net (TR4 Tony)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 09:33:31 +0100
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>

You may just have a bad earth to the solenoid via the gearbox itself.

On most the black wire is fastened to the gearbox via a circular bolt
fastening onto one of the top cover bolts. If the cover is sealed using
squeeze on sealant and the earth tab is not connected to the metal then the
solenoid won't work.

Alternatively the spades on he loom might be badly connected.

Usually the big metal 6RA relays are reliable but can get dirty, so pull the
tab overs on the metal cover an lift it off so that you can clean the gunge
out.

Nice job.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On 11 Oct 2012, at 02:40, "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch at netzero.com> wrote:

> Bud, have you tried another relay?  I had a bad relay on my street TR4 and
I
> seem to recall that it behaved similarly.  When I ran an OD in my race TR3
I
> did not use the relay, just used a heavy duty switch.  One less thing to go
> wrong.  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> To: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
> Cc: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
> Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600
>
> When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap
> removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the
> meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.
>
> Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay
> will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the
> high resistance.
>
> Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to
> the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing
> something up?
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:
>
>> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would
>> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the
>> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>>
>> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting
>>> process
>>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all
>>> through
>>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>>> doesn't engage.
>>>
>>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the
>>> solenoid
>>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>>
>>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch
>>> the
>>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>>
>>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage
>>> measured
>>> at 12.75)?
>>>
>>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>>> other?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bud Rolofson
>>>
>>>
>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/
>>> bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Woman is 53 But Looks 25
> Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony at virgin.net


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Oct 11 03:33:16 2012
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 05:33:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
Message-ID: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>

Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail 
after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last 
year.

I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring 
diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 


From tr4.tony at virgin.net  Thu Oct 11 04:50:09 2012
From: tr4.tony at virgin.net (TR4 Tony)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:50:09 +0100
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
	<D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <6D58C46C-71BA-44E5-A17D-8F4C0A44F103@virgin.net>

Durite (Gordon equipment) also supply some very good relays and flasher units
which seem very good in service - I use these on the rally TR4 and no
problems. Same goes for their flasher units.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On 11 Oct 2012, at 10:33, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

> Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail
> after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last
> year.
>
> I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring
> diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony at virgin.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Oct 11 06:44:45 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 08:44:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT SUPPORT - VERY COMPELLING
Message-ID: <8CF75C551E5DEB3-EB4-352C7@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com>

 I am overdue in posting the recent contributors to the FOT FUND....my
apologies and I will catch those up shortly.

But, 'THANKS' to all that have responded to the need to fund expenses for the
2013 KCUP.....

Clearly our group is alive and well and functioning quite nicely without the
formalities of an "ORGANIZATION".

Much credit goes to various sponsors in the past, but the ELKHART LAKE VINTAGE
FESTIVAL is not an event like THE MITTY and the sanctioning body, the VSCDA,
is a non-profit organization.

The ELVF at Road America is a dream event for our organization, but it
requires some self determination on our part. Clearly, we have a lot of "self
determination".  THANKS!





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Oct 11 12:34:49 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 18:34:49 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl><CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com><SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl><457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com><624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>

We of course were never allowed anything but the stock box with the alternate
ratios.  We did not have very much trouble with he box.  I think primarily
because all the parts in the car and from the parts department were new
FACTORY pieces. I think the clubs should allow  the five speed .  It is silly
to see people spend so much money and lost track time when ancient pieces.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Subject: RE: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 06:43:53 -0500
> From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com
> To: jason at multivintage.com; jhhasty at gdhs.com; kaskas at cox.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>
> << Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions,  >>
>
> And, in the case of GT6s, yes I definitely include 5-speed
> transmissions.  One argument frequently made in the cause of originality
> and fairness is that the stock parts wouldn't have such failure problems
> if we didn't use cheater parts to build engines that produce far more
> horsepower than was available "back in the day".  However, even in my
> very mildly-tuned STREET GT6 Which I used to use for 5 or 6 track days a
> year, I went through three transmissions in two years.  I very quickly
> decided that a nice Toyota 5-speed conversion was a good idea, rules or
> no rules.  The ratios are very close to the same, including the 5th gear
> which is the same is the as the stock overdrive ratio.  Kas, I can't
> imagine how you kept the transmissions together back in the day.  Did
> you just rebuild them between every race?
>
> Scott B.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Jason Ostrowski
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:56 PM
> To: John Hasty; Kas Kastner
> Cc: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Hasty
> >
> >
> > "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers,
> > slotted & drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims
> > as regulation violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type
>
> > transgressions are fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond
> the sprit of the rules."
>
>
> John,
>
> No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
> WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
> Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy
> for looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season.
> And quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
> equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems
> to be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
> sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
> different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
> Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
> I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
> Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars
> with lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by
> certain German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least
> a limited access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm
> not condoning any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our
> TRIUMPH FRIENDs that are developing various modern solutions to help
> with obvious difficulty in trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From cartravel at pobox.com  Thu Oct 11 12:51:47 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:51:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
	<D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <50771543.5040605@pobox.com>

I used a very simple wiring scheme on my TR3 which allowed overdrive in 
all but reverse.  I used a commodity Bosch relay.  The shipping cost 
more than the relay.  You can find a diagram at:
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/247150-OD-in-every-gear#254262
I think Tony Drews may have it at his website too.
Larry

On 10/11/2012 4:33 AM, yellow04 at tr4racer.com wrote:
> Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail
> after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last
> year.
>
> I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring
> diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From billdentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:36:22 2012
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:36:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7628BD12AFD8-CE0-35D2F@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

Good for you, John.  This is, after all, VINTAGE racing.

Bill Dentinger



-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2012 5:36 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
rilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
iolations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
ine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules.
Sent from my iPhone


From billdentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:40:06 2012
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:40:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...
Message-ID: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv8rFPLN_Fg

Not the sports car, but British, related, and some GOOD stuff.

Bill Dentinger


From tlizzard at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 05:26:13 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 07:26:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds6F2A5D2FE0EEDB0FEB2FBC38C0@phx.gbl>

Thanks Bill...

Aircraft of WW2 are one of my passions.

Most of that footage is late war BTW.

Still a cool find.


Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: billdentin at aol.com<mailto:billdentin at aol.com>
  To: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 8:40 PM
  Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...


  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv8rFPLN_Fg<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z
v8rFPLN_Fg>

  Not the sports car, but British, related, and some GOOD stuff.

  Bill Dentinger
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

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From sjanzen at me.com  Fri Oct 12 08:18:11 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 10:18:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>

Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the area?  Russ?

Sent from my mobile device 


From igofaster at att.net  Fri Oct 12 09:23:07 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
Message-ID: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And, when 
you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to be at 
speed in these cars.
The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've really 
hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you and 
your car is toxic.
Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought. 
Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as 
sanctioning rules.
Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes for 
example.
Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of variance 
to vintage spirit. 

I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third rebuild 
in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas. The 
car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I 
presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put a 
Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum 
Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was warrantied 
with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J type 
overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum with 
exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England... in 
the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in 
receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you 
wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going to 
run the T50.... no problem.
I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and their 
sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going to 
continue to run.
Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper 
pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability efforts... 
the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who are 
not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business 
format... IMHO....

Bobby Whitehead

on the hunt... again.....


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Oct 12 09:52:48 2012
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 11:52:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
Message-ID: <7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 09:58:21 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:58:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>

I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in this
fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a consistent
proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the days of
people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we don't
want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.

When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in the
hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some very
celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage racing
turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed into the
hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious events. When
is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at a club level
event?

Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity of
cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm in
favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow cars to
have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal less
expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were leading
edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I stepped on my
brakes they did something.

I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it is,
but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You can
buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 10:12:06 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:12:06 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <002601cda894$54cd2890$fe6779b0$@com>

Maybe a TR3/4 is more gifted than other cars but you can make a very fast
car with using the enhanced stock stuff sold by retailers.
140 HP at the wheels is no problem and the stock brakes are outperforming
many others.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 17:58
An: Bobby Whitehead
Cc: FoT Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in
this fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a
consistent proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the
days of people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we
don't want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.

When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in
the hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some
very celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage
racing turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed
into the hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious
events. When is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at
a club level event?

Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity
of cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm
in favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow
cars to have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal
less expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were
leading edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I
stepped on my brakes they did something.

I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it is,
but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You
can buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars.
> And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the
> opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection
> between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far
> as sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern
> gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my
> third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run
vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in
Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the
> way I presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea
> I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree,
> Quantum Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends...
> I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a
> modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by
> Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000
> in receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run
> like you wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a
> customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes
> and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
> going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four
> caliper pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or
> reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those
> who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any
> business format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 10:20:45 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:20:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
In-Reply-To: <7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
Message-ID: <005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From mmoore at wave1.net  Fri Oct 12 10:22:47 2012
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:22:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
In-Reply-To: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
Message-ID: <009601cda895$d1a705b0$74f51110$@net>

I have a spare one you could use, but I am in Erie PA about 3 1/2 hours
away. Maybe somebody is passing by on their way up there and I could meet
them on highway

Thanks
Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
Fax:        814-864-7383


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
area?  Russ?

Sent from my mobile device 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore at wave1.net


From rikrock at live.com  Fri Oct 12 10:42:38 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:42:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <DUB401-EAS216F963F3F0D5301AEBFDA9C68C0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to Russ we should end up okay.  I had to drill out what remained of the
broken stud, but that went well, so we'll be heading over to see Russ this
afternoon.

What a great group of people!!

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: Spitfire Racing
Sent: 10/12/2012 12:24 PM
To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 12 11:10:44 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:10:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>

Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Oct 12 11:34:04 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:34:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CF76B6E8DA1319-1DD4-399B1@webmail-d004.sysops.aol.com>

 Back in the 90s I removed and replaced Ed Ceilley's GT6 gearbox three times
while at Moroso and Sebring in two weekends of racing.

Twice it was in the rain and three inches of water on the ground.

I would vote for 'GEAR BOXES FREE', especially with GT6s

We seem to be doing quite well with our TR3/4 TRANSMISSIONS, or I would
consider one of the Toyota conversions.

If there were any restrictions placed on a major component, among ourselves, I
would make the engine conform to the old rules. But that is not likely to
happen....and I am OK with that. (I think ours does conform and that's largely
an economic decision)



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 12, 2012 12:11 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph


Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance
advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between
you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm
going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Oct 12 11:55:14 2012
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:55:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>

Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are 
considered. 




> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6 
> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph 
> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and 
> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution 
> all round.
>  
> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
> 

</HTML>


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 12:04:20 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:04:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
Message-ID: <7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>

Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
issue.... 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 1:55 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com; vangoughv at hotmail.com; igofaster at att.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are
considered. 




> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6 
> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph

> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and

> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution 
> all round.
>  
> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
> 

</HTML>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 12 12:47:01 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:47:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>

Ya SVRA is smart.  Even though I'm with VARAC in Canada I built and registered
my GT6 to SVRA rules for that very reason since my own club had no such
addenda but allows SVRA cars to register and run.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
> issue....
>
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of N197TR4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 1:55 PM
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com; vangoughv at hotmail.com; igofaster at att.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are
> considered.
>
>
>
>
>> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6
>> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph
>
>> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and
>
>> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution
>> all round.
>>
>> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
>>
>
> </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Oct 12 12:54:49 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>

> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>> issue....


Like the song says: "same as it ever was".

When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your 
advantage. ;-)

In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate 
gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God 
knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly 
NO advantage other than reliability.

Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created 
(about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I 
wonder why?

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Oct 12 13:48:50 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 19:48:50 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>,
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>,
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>

That is not quite true.  The Toyota pickup and the Celica offer at least 4
alternate ratios for 5th gear, not so with the overdrive. But so what,
compared to missing a guy on the grid for not a good enough reason.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>
> > On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
> >> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
stock
> >> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
> >> issue....
>
>
> Like the song says: "same as it ever was".
>
> When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
> advantage. ;-)
>
> In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
> gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
> knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
> NO advantage other than reliability.
>
> Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
> (about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
> wonder why?
>
> c ya,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 14:30:01 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:30:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>,
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>,
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
	<SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FD59D259-3EAD-4909-8C11-2A5936C65008@bnj.com>

I don't quite get the "scared of the competition" line. Probably because I've
never really cared about competitors. The guy I want to beat is me--the last
time I raced. But my notions aside, I've always considered the core of racing
to be aiming for an unfair advantage. I think if you're not doing that you're
not racing, or maybe you're doing some odd spec racer version of it. Even in
spec racing there's guys who buy lots of tires, and those that don't.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 12:48 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> That is not quite true.  The Toyota pickup and the Celica offer at least 4
> alternate ratios for 5th gear, not so with the overdrive. But so what,
> compared to missing a guy on the grid for not a good enough reason.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>>> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>>>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
> stock
>>>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>>>> issue....
>>
>>
>> Like the song says: "same as it ever was".
>>
>> When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
>> advantage. ;-)
>>
>> In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
>> gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
>> knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
>> NO advantage other than reliability.
>>
>> Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
>> (about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
>> wonder why?
>>
>> c ya,
>> rml
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 14:48:46 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 16:48:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee 
arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any 
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should 
fit in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in 
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I 
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not sure 
what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars 
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 14:58:30 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:58:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>

Most of the Jaguar automatics I have experience with are hideous. I think they
were originally Borg-Warner. Had one in a 420 I owned briefly that I sold as a
parts car. Adapting a modern five or six speed automatic would not be all that
tough and could be VERY cool. If I were going to do it I'd get Tony Garmey to
do the fabrication.

No, it won't fit in the TR3 case. Does ANYONE really use TR3 transmissions? If
they do I have three or four they can have. I consider them useless.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 1:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mlcooknj at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 15:00:20 2012
From: mlcooknj at msn.com (michael cook)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:00:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY147-W43D1E20DB3EFEAA249753EC88C0@phx.gbl>

>From the internet: Hobbs, Howard Frederick (19021982)by G. H. Brooks	Howard
Frederick Hobbs (1902-1982), inventor, was born on 21 September 1902 at East
Marden, Adelaide, fifth of six surviving children of South Australian-born
parents James Harris Hobbs, fruit-grower, and his wife Mary Eliza, nie Pitt.
Educated at Prince Alfred College, as a boy Howard showed an aptitude for
things mechanical. At 14 he built a full-size aeroplane (without wings) that
was taxied around the familys garden, powered by a motorcycle engine. On
leaving school he worked at his fathers orchard and market garden at
Paradise. He married Phyllis Dorothy Reid, a schoolteacher, at Payneham
Methodist Church on 12 May 1925. Next year he applied for his first patent, an
improved appliance for the grading of fruit. 	Driving motorcars and lorries
from an early age, Hobbs cherished an ambition to eliminate the need for gear
changing. After many experiments he had a light car fitted with the `Hobbs
gearless drive ready for testing; Professors (Sir) Robert Chapman and (Sir)
Kerr Grant of the University of Adelaide found it satisfactory and simple to
operate. Hobbs Gearless Drive Ltd was formed in 1931 to market the device and
to administer the patent rights. In June 1931 Hobbs, with his wife and
daughter, sailed for Britain, where he also took out patents. For the next
thirty-five years the family were to live at Leamington Spa, Warwickshire; two
sons were born. Hobbs was unable to persuade car manufacturers to use the
`gearless drive: based on rotating weights, it incorporated a free-wheel
clutch, or ratchet, which was probably the weakness in the device. Other
inventors with similar ideas also failed to attract interest in their
mechanisms. 	After engaging in war work, in 1946 Hobbs was helped by a wealthy
industrialist to form Hobbs Transmission Ltd. He discarded the gearless drive
and developed the `Mechamatic transmission. The new automatic gearbox was
more complicated, with epicyclic gears and hydraulically operated friction
clutches. Mechamatic, with four forward gears, unusual at that time, was
lightweight and suitable for small cars. Many well-known makers built
prototypes but the only one to reach production was the Lanchester Sprite,
produced in 1955 by the Birmingham Small Arms Co. Ltd. For financial reasons
BSA soon abandoned the project. 	Westinghouse Brake & Signal Co. Ltd bought
BSAs shares in Hobbs Transmission and, anticipating its use in the Ford
Cortina, built a factory at Manchester to manufacture the Mechamatic. When
Ford decided not to proceed, Hobbs Transmission went into liquidation. In the
1960s Hobbss son David successfully drove a Lotus Elite fitted with the
Mechamatic gearbox in international motor races. The family moved to Napton,
near Rugby, about 1965 and Hobbs and his son John set up a workshop. They went
back to the original concept of the infinitely variable drive, but this time
hydraulic, not mechanical. Hobbs took out an Australian patent in the name of
Variable Kinetic Drives Ltd, but like its predecessors this also failed
commercially. In 1977 Hobbs was invited to participate in the British Genius
Exhibition at Battersea.
 > From: BillDentin at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 16:48:46 -0400
> To: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mlcooknj at msn.com


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct 12 15:06:49 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:06:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <et2v9u3vksvvrkq3x4fn2ygh.1350076009452@email.android.com>

ISTR that some of Jim Hall's Chaparals had 2 speed powerglide transmissions.

One of the DTSC members has recently converted a TR4 to automatic. Not a race car, but...

Cheers,

Doug
--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

>Amici...
>
>With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee 
>arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any 
>options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should 
>fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
>Bill (Damdinger)
>
>PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in 
>Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I 
>understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not sure 
>what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars 
>Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:07:54 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:07:54 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>

I can shift my dogbox without clutch.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee arthritis
issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should fit
in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:10:49 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:10:49 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did they
build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50% of the
time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 12 15:11:49 2012
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 15:11:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <0903181D-21C0-4EE8-AC96-5188C76DE210@yahoo.com>

Is a dog box allowed by the sanctioning body?  Just kidding!

Ty

Sent from my iPhone

'63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
'62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
++++


On Oct 12, 2012, at 3:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 15:29:49 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:29:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <8698.14477805.3da9e5cc@aol.com>

Mike...

WOW!  Interesting dossier on David Hobbs' Dad.  

Incidentally, David Hobbs now owns a Honda dealership in Glendale, 
Wisconsin (Milwaukee suburb), and at a cocktail party there one time the VSCDA 
brought a bunch of vintage sports cars to be on display in the shop (which 
actually got scrubbed clean for the event).  Anyway I brought our Tornado Thunder 
Bolt and David Hobbs got all excited.  He brought a picture down from his 
office of that Lotus referred to in the article and the Thunder Bolt racing 
over in England.  I asked him if the Thunder Bolt was getting ready to lap him 
in the picture.  He did not think that was very funny and promised to tell 
me some time just how ill-mannered the Thunder Bolt was when it was first 
built.  I see David at Road America from time to time, but still have not 
heard the rest of the story.  I hope to someday because David Hobbs is a Hell of 
a story teller.  When he and Brian Redman get together you are guaranteed 
to split a gut laughing.

Bill Dentinger


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:38:19 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:38:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>

I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
Straight cut also. Almost stock.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
An: MadMarx
Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did
they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50%
of the time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:43:14 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:43:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>

Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
An: MadMarx
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:

> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
> clutch 50% of the time.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>> Amici...
>>
>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>
>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>
>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 16:24:57 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:24:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>

amen to that



On 10/12/12 11:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And, when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas. The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England... in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From billb at bnj.com  Fri Oct 12 16:33:09 2012
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 15:33:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
Message-ID: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>

That's my story too. It's almost stock. Ignore that straight cut gear howl.
They were all like that.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:43 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
> An: MadMarx
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:
>
>> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
>> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
>> An: MadMarx
>> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
>> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
>> clutch 50% of the time.
>>
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>>
>>> Amici...
>>>
>>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>>
>>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>>
>>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
>> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From clw2000 at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 16:57:10 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:57:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS  GT6 REBUILD
In-Reply-To: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>,
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>,
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>,
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>,
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>,
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>,
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W49B52F4FBF75DE8CFAA17FBF8C0@phx.gbl>

I think I started all this muckracking, so a question to help me out based on
what I'm hearing:

"Facts"
- The GT6 trans was good when new, but really unreliable now after 40 years
- Suitable alternatives are TR 3/4/6, T9 or various Toyota
- I have a typical spec GT6 4-spd with overdrive

Questions:
- Am I better off swapping the base unit out during the build or giving it a
chance?
- Is OD of any use?
- From my read of regs, a five speed is allowed as an alternative when
replacing a 4spd OD unit, as long as 5th gear is < a 1.1 ratio.  If so, what's
my best option?




Thanks,

Chuck Watson


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:50:11 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <606EFA2A-B3D7-440F-8872-A998D1E20788@gdhs.com>

By God Bill there's the answer. Autos shucks it worked for Lance  why not for
us ?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:50:57 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:50:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
References: <6F32FDCE-4E5C-4B1B-BE77-A3FB9ABB532B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <8F390423-2B7A-495B-9190-9D7D6F8CD06C@gdhs.com>

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Date: October 12, 2012 8:46:09 PM EDT
> To: "Snowdonracing at aol.com" <Snowdonracing at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
>
> Thanks Ray. I know that is what the  G3 rules say; but the special rules for
TR3's states original transmissions. So the rules say one thing under G3 and
another under TR3-4.  How are we to know which one is correct?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Hi John,
>>
>>     Thanks for the note and sorry you are having issues.  There is a
substitution rule in the Group 3 Supplementals already.  It states:
>> "Standard gearbox may be replaced with an alternate PRODUCTION BASED
GEARBOX of the same number of forward speeds.  ADD 75LBS. TO OFFICIAL WEIGHT.
When replacing a 4-speed w/overdrive unit with a 5-speed, the 5th gear must be
lower numerically than 1 : 1."
>> If a non-standard gearbox is being used, it must be declared on the RCIS
sheet for the vehicle.
>> Your Triumph, TR3, lists a 4-speed with Laycock overdrive optional.  That
means 5 forward speeds.
>> So, the rules are already there.  Cars that were never equipped with
overdrive, or as an option, must continue to keep their original number of
forward speeds.
>> The number of forward speeds is something that we will be checking on for
2013 as we step up on rules enforcement.
>> I hope this answers your questions.
>> Ray
>>
>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 1:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>> Ray:
>>     As our Triumphs, MGs, Morgans, Elvas etc. get even older than they
>> already are, a number of us are having transmission problems with the
>> original gear boxes which are causing frequent costly repairs and I
>> understand that MGs are also having source problems as well.  While I
>> understand the spirit of the rules and try to keep my TR within them,
>> reliability and the cost of fixing old "stuff" is becoming a problem which
>> may well keep some of us from participating in as many events as we might
>> otherwise like.  For instance I just spent $730 to go through my TR box
and
>> after the Gold Cup, it feels like it needs it again.  It may well be time
to
>> consider, in the interest of safety and reliability, allowing these cars
to
>> use the readily available GM and Toyota 5 speed transmission conversions.
I
>> note also, that 4 speeds vs. 5 speeds is not a problem in as much as these
>> old English cars had overdrive units available which, like my car, give
you
>> an effective 5 speed unit.
>>     I would also note that there are already some cars using these
>> conversions and there should be a "level playing field" approach
considered
>> as well.  Please give some thought to this with your Tech staff .  I look
>> forward to your response....
>>
>> John H. Hasty  SVRA # 8326
>> Attorney At Law
>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>> 719 East Boulevard
>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>> www.gdhs.com
>>
>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
that
>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
>> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>>
>> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
>> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
>> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
>> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
>> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
>> addressed herein.


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:56:17 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <548262A1-EE32-4638-9856-A000657550DA@gdhs.com>

Being near  Alsace I expect they are French Poodles

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Bill Babcock <billb at bnj.com> wrote:

> That's my story too. It's almost stock. Ignore that straight cut gear howl.
> They were all like that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:43 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)
>> 
>> 
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
>> An: MadMarx
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>> 
>> What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:
>> 
>>> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
>>> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>>> 
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
>>> An: MadMarx
>>> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>> 
>>> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
>>> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
>>> clutch 50% of the time.
>>> 
>>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>>>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>>>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>>> 
>>>> Amici...
>>>> 
>>>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>>>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>>>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>>>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>>> 
>>>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>>> 
>>>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>>>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>>>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>>>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>>>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
>>> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:58:36 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:58:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <D592CFCC-41E2-4731-860F-0367AC8073A6@gdhs.com>

Gee, in still use a 3 close ratio with A  O D

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:58 PM, Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote:

> Most of the Jaguar automatics I have experience with are hideous. I think
they
> were originally Borg-Warner. Had one in a 420 I owned briefly that I sold as
a
> parts car. Adapting a modern five or six speed automatic would not be all
that
> tough and could be VERY cool. If I were going to do it I'd get Tony Garmey
to
> do the fabrication.
>
> No, it won't fit in the TR3 case. Does ANYONE really use TR3 transmissions?
If
> they do I have three or four they can have. I consider them useless.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 1:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Amici...
>>
>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
> know of any
>> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
>> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>
>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>
>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
>> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
>> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure
>> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
>> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From sjanzen at me.com  Fri Oct 12 20:33:21 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 22:33:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>

My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff.

Sent from my mobile device 

On Oct 11, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> We of course were never allowed anything but the stock box with the alternate
> ratios.  We did not have very much trouble with he box.  I think primarily
> because all the parts in the car and from the parts department were new
> FACTORY pieces. I think the clubs should allow  the five speed .  It is silly
> to see people spend so much money and lost track time when ancient pieces.
> 
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Subject: RE: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 06:43:53 -0500
>> From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com
>> To: jason at multivintage.com; jhhasty at gdhs.com; kaskas at cox.net
>> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> << Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions,  >>
>> 
>> And, in the case of GT6s, yes I definitely include 5-speed
>> transmissions.  One argument frequently made in the cause of originality
>> and fairness is that the stock parts wouldn't have such failure problems
>> if we didn't use cheater parts to build engines that produce far more
>> horsepower than was available "back in the day".  However, even in my
>> very mildly-tuned STREET GT6 Which I used to use for 5 or 6 track days a
>> year, I went through three transmissions in two years.  I very quickly
>> decided that a nice Toyota 5-speed conversion was a good idea, rules or
>> no rules.  The ratios are very close to the same, including the 5th gear
>> which is the same is the as the stock overdrive ratio.  Kas, I can't
>> imagine how you kept the transmissions together back in the day.  Did
>> you just rebuild them between every race?
>> 
>> Scott B.
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Jason Ostrowski
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:56 PM
>> To: John Hasty; Kas Kastner
>> Cc: fot
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: John Hasty
>>> 
>>> 
>>> "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers,
>>> slotted & drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims
>>> as regulation violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type
>> 
>>> transgressions are fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond
>> the sprit of the rules."
>> 
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
>> WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
>> Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy
>> for looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season.
>> And quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
>> equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems
>> to be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
>> sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
>> different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
>> Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
>> I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
>> Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars
>> with lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by
>> certain German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least
>> a limited access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm
>> not condoning any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our
>> TRIUMPH FRIENDs that are developing various modern solutions to help
>> with obvious difficulty in trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.
>> 
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> Friendly Ghost Racing
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct 12 20:32:42 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:32:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <0903181D-21C0-4EE8-AC96-5188C76DE210@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.175.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

If I could afford one I wouldn't care.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Yahoo
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 3:12 PM
To: MadMarx
Cc: <ponobill at gmail.com>; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Is a dog box allowed by the sanctioning body?  Just kidding!

Ty

Sent from my iPhone

'63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
'62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
++++


On Oct 12, 2012, at 3:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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_______________________________________________
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 06:15:05 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 08:15:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>

OUCH!!!

It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!

Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.

Russ

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 13 06:48:26 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 08:48:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>

Wow. I'm 300 miles north and it's about the same temp

Have a great time gents!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-13, at 8:16 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> OUCH!!!
>
> It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
> much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
> afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
> temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
> with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!
>
> Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.
>
> Russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
> To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
> I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
> minutes from the Glen.
> Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail
storms
> and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.
>
> Russ Moore
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bill Tobin
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
> To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
> Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
> I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
> Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
>
>> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
>> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
>> area?  Russ?
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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>
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From REK46 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 07:33:39 2012
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:33:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Wheel balancer
Message-ID: <20260.1b67d7ac.3daac7b3@aol.com>

____________________________________
 From: REK46 at aol.com
To: spitlist at cox.net
Sent: 10/13/2012 9:31:48 A.M.  Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: Wheel balancer


I inherited a nice wheel balancer from an old friend..Its a  
Micro-Precision ,model M-60...supposedly same as ones sold as Coats  Co....BUT,one problem 
with it, the bubble is enlarged to almost the size  of the window(supposed 
to be small for centering in the dial)...the part is  #106843 Bubble Cap 
Assembly...Apparenly these are obsolete in production. Does  anyone know if the 
bubble cap can be repaired and renewed to proper standards  and by 
whom?..Or does anyone have an old unit that they might donate/sell me  the cap. 
Really hate to scrap the whole thing,plus the sentimental value...Any  help 
would be  appreciated....Rick


From jkhagen at charter.net  Sat Oct 13 08:28:00 2012
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 10:28:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
Message-ID: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>

Friends,  If you upgrade everything that could fail-it would not be 
vintage let alone the spirit of vintage racing.  John Hagen


On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Vince G wrote:

> Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
> Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is 
> the
> same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance 
> advantage,
> it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in 
> the day
> to for reliability and safety.
>
> Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend 
> early due
> to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even 
> showing me
> up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could 
> have
> been prevented.
>
> IMHO
>
> Vince Garrett
> #144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)
>
> Have a great weekend everyone!
>
>
> On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> 
> wrote:
>
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. 
>> And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the 
>> opportunity to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and 
>> you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection 
>> between you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far 
>> as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern 
>> gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought 
>> of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>>
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my 
>> third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run 
>> vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
>> Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the 
>> way I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I 
>> would put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, 
>> Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a 
>> modified J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by 
>> Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from 
>> England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about 
>> $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run 
>> like you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, 
>> I'm going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes 
>> and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars 
>> are going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four 
>> caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... 
>> those who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any 
>> business
>> format... IMHO....
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
>>
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Oct 13 08:53:54 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:53:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.176.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Isn't it a bit early in the fall for the annual "what is vintage?" 
discussion?  Normally we wait until like December or January when 
everyone's testy from the cold weather.  :)

Tony Drews


From REK46 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 09:07:39 2012
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:07:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Wheel balancer help
Message-ID: <5d14.59de8aa1.3daaddba@aol.com>

I inherited a nice wheel balancer from an old friend..Its a Micro-Precision 
 ,model M-60...supposedly same as ones sold as Coats Co....BUT,one problem 
with  it, the bubble is enlarged to almost the size of the window(supposed 
to be small  for centering in the dial)...the part is #106843 Bubble Cap 
Assembly...Apparenly  these are obsolete in production. Does anyone know if the 
bubble cap can be  repaired and renewed to proper standards and by whom?..Or 
does anyone have an  old unit that they might donate/sell me the cap. 
Really hate to scrap the whole  thing,plus the sentimental value...Any help would 
be  appreciated....Rick


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Sat Oct 13 09:12:18 2012
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:12:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR2 - TR6 Triumph gearboxes
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl><CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com><SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl><457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com><624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry><CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com><SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
	<CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>
Message-ID: <FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>

You small chassis Triumph racers, this probably does not apply to you...

Keep in mind a properly prepared Triumph gearbox that is used with a 
reasonable amount of care will last a long time. The recipe to get a box to 
shift right in race conditions and last many weekends is extraordinarly 
simple, build it to the bottom end of the clearance specs in the book. You 
either have to build the gearbox yourself, or insist your rebuilder take the 
time required to set every clearance as tight as the spec allows.

Most importantly, remember when on track what you are not driving a modern 
gearbox. Show it a little sympathy,  it will last.

Or, spend the bucks on the T5 conversion. I don't care, it means more TR 
gearbox bits available for me!

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


> My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially 
> compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for 
> adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff. 


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 13 09:48:04 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:48:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR2 - TR6 Triumph gearboxes
In-Reply-To: <FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
	<CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>
	<FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1052E86004EBA49EA7B5F3FB2730@phx.gbl>

I will be rebuilding my gearbox so thank you for this advice....

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-13, at 11:12 AM, yellow04 at tr4racer.com wrote:

> You small chassis Triumph racers, this probably does not apply to you...
>
> Keep in mind a properly prepared Triumph gearbox that is used with a
> reasonable amount of care will last a long time. The recipe to get a box to
> shift right in race conditions and last many weekends is extraordinarly
> simple, build it to the bottom end of the clearance specs in the book. You
> either have to build the gearbox yourself, or insist your rebuilder take the
> time required to set every clearance as tight as the spec allows.
>
> Most importantly, remember when on track what you are not driving a modern
> gearbox. Show it a little sympathy,  it will last.
>
> Or, spend the bucks on the T5 conversion. I don't care, it means more TR
> gearbox bits available for me!
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
>
>> My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially
>> compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for
>> adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Oct 12 10:28:05 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 09:28:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <B6BCCF8E677C4D7788DEA13D3A8BFA90@Bud>

The quote that someone made..."If you want to race these cars you have to 
love these cars" rings very true to me..Loving my race car, even if I cannot 
use it for a while is part of the wonderful process of being involved with 
our terrific sport..When the car breaks..that too is part of the 
process..These cars..be they loaded with racing history or built from a 
street Triumph are an indication of  passion..For instance..How FOT is so 
great at helping new racers..The comradry is beautiful
We are lucky people!
Racer Bud Spitfire #21

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: "FoT Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph


> I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in 
> this
> fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a 
> consistent
> proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the days of
> people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we don't
> want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.
>
> When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in 
> the
> hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some 
> very
> celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage racing
> turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed into 
> the
> hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious events. 
> When
> is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at a club 
> level
> event?
>
> Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity 
> of
> cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm 
> in
> favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow 
> cars to
> have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal less
> expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were 
> leading
> edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I stepped on 
> my
> brakes they did something.
>
> I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it 
> is,
> but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You 
> can
> buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
>
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity 
>> to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between 
>> you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>>
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run 
>> vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
>> Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way 
>> I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would 
>> put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified 
>> J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from 
>> England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like 
>> you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm 
>> going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are 
>> going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those 
>> who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any 
>> business
>> format... IMHO....
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
>>
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 11:50:49 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:50:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <32347.375ca8d7.3da9b278@aol.com>

15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6  
box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new  box was a Triumph 
piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I  declared it to my club and 
they were happy to see me on the grid and on the  podium.  A good solution 
all round.
 
I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
 
 
In a message dated 10/12/2012 10:42:13 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:

Back in  the 90s I removed and replaced Ed Ceilley's GT6 gearbox three times
while  at Moroso and Sebring in two weekends of racing.

Twice it was in the  rain and three inches of water on the ground.

I would vote for 'GEAR  BOXES FREE', especially with GT6s

We seem to be doing quite well with  our TR3/4 TRANSMISSIONS, or I would
consider one of the Toyota  conversions.

If there were any restrictions placed on a major  component, among 
ourselves, I
would make the engine conform to the old  rules. But that is not likely to
happen....and I am OK with that. (I think  ours does conform and that's 
largely
an economic  decision)



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup,  Iowa 50648
319.464.4711   (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original  Message-----
From: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: Bobby  Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 12, 2012 12:11 pm
Subject: Re:  [Fot] Racing a Triumph


Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im  through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same  ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a  performance
advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the  axles on the gt6 in the 
day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we  all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early 
due
to  mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing  
me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could  have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+  (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at  11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I  think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars.  And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love  the opportunity 
to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir  that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
>  hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection  between
you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the  spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the  #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning  rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern  gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last  modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage  spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and  as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of  what it takes to try to run 
vintage...
> Personally I had my build  booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
Texas.
The
> car I  purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way 
I
>  presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would  
put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us  agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2  weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was  awesome another gearbox with a modified 
J
type
> overdrive which also  lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange  I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set  from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car  and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,,  you know,,, I tried to run like 
you
> wanted me to but if you want to to  run consistently as a customer, I'm
going
to
> run the T50.... no  problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old  gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to  change if these cars are
going
to
> continue to run.
>  Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four  caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or  reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at  the end of the day... those 
who
are
> not flexible in business  willing to modify will not survive in any 
business
> format...  IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt...  again.....
> _______________________________________________
>  fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:13:15 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:13:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <1350155595.55678.YahooMailRC@web182202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

that's another can of worms... but , really , if a Spridget guy wants to spend 
$6000 for a dogbox set of gears, it is still a reliability issue, with some 
potential for a gain in speed....
just no 'cruise control' , that's where I would draw the line....

great discussions on the thread btw..... thanks to you friends of Triumph!

Bobby




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, October 12, 2012 4:08:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS

I can shift my dogbox without clutch.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee arthritis
issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should fit
in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
_______________________________________________
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:17:58 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:17:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <1350155878.87341.YahooMailRC@web182204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" .... broke....

Bobby




________________________________
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, October 12, 2012 4:18:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did they
build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50% of the
time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 13 13:27:34 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:27:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>

Good grief the VDCA Dec race at Savannah is usually in the 60's or mid 50's.
19 is out of the question for me.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 13, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Wow. I'm 300 miles north and it's about the same temp
>
> Have a great time gents!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-10-13, at 8:16 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
>> OUCH!!!
>>
>> It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
>> much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
>> afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
>> temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
>> with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!
>>
>> Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.
>>
>> Russ
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
>> To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>> I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only
40
>> minutes from the Glen.
>> Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail
> storms
>> and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.
>>
>> Russ Moore
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Bill Tobin
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
>> To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>> Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
>> I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
>> Bill
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>> To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
>> Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>>
>>> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
>>> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
>>> area?  Russ?
>>>
>>> Sent from my mobile device
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
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>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:40:07 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:40:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1350157207.21617.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

yes, but if you upgrade something that fails all the time you CAN participate... 
no fun driving 1000 miles each way and loading up your pride and joy the FIRST 
day... it happens ....




________________________________
From: "jkhagen at charter.net" <jkhagen at charter.net>
To: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
Cc: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>; FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, October 13, 2012 9:28:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

Friends,  If you upgrade everything that could fail-it would not be vintage let 
alone the spirit of vintage racing.  John Hagen


On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Vince G wrote:

> Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
> Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
> same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance advantage,
> it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
> to for reliability and safety.
> 
> Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
> to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
> up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
> been prevented.
> 
> IMHO
> 
> Vince Garrett
> #144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone!
> 
> 
> On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
> 
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>> 
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
>> format... IMHO....
>> 
>> Bobby Whitehead
>> 
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 13:46:20 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 21:46:20 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE


From jason at multivintage.com  Sat Oct 13 14:01:40 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:01:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>

A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
C. Whoops.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 14:22:03 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 22:22:03 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002801cda980$69dc84a0$3d958de0$@com>

I had a look on the engine.

The 4th cylinder doesnt move anymore.

Doesnt look too good in this case.





Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
An: MadMarx
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....



A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.

B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.

C. Whoops.



Jason Ostrowski

Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 15:19:10 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 23:19:10 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <5079d9fb.e1cb440a.0c4a.69faSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<002801cda980$69dc84a0$3d958de0$@com>
	<5079d9fb.e1cb440a.0c4a.69faSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <003f01cda988$64925350$2db6f9f0$@com>

It seems the piston deck cracked off as I can push down the piston and the
crank rotation pushes it up again.
And I see a few drips of water....so maybe the head was smashed by that.
I'll see.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 23:15
An: MadMarx
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....

Ouch.

Tony

At 03:22 PM 10/13/2012, you wrote:
>I had a look on the engine.
>
>The 4th cylinder doesnt move anymore.
>
>Doesnt look too good in this case.
>
>
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat Oct 13 18:26:27 2012
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 20:26:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS  GT6 REBUILD
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>,
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>,
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>,
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>,
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>,
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>,
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
	<BLU154-W49B52F4FBF75DE8CFAA17FBF8C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2735DF1371B448EBA3B33440456125D1@hpd530>

Just got back from the Glen; pretty nippy but nice.

re: transmissions: SVRA's  Jack Whoerle (sp) told us a couple years ago that 
because OD's were used in the day, we can use a 5 speed gearbox, but 5th has 
to be less than 1:1. Other organizations will tell you the same thing.

I've used the same gearbox for 6 years now with no problems. Yes, I run 
towards the back of the pack, but always have someone to dice with. And I'm 
having a great time. And not spending a fortune doing it.

The "Redhead" has had a total of 2 DNF's in the 6 years of driving it, and 
they were in the first 2 races I ever did. Not bad.
My $.02 worth.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charles WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
Cc: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS GT6 REBUILD


>I think I started all this muckracking, so a question to help me out based 
>on
> what I'm hearing:
>
> "Facts"
> - The GT6 trans was good when new, but really unreliable now after 40 
> years
> - Suitable alternatives are TR 3/4/6, T9 or various Toyota
> - I have a typical spec GT6 4-spd with overdrive
>
> Questions:
> - Am I better off swapping the base unit out during the build or giving it 
> a
> chance?
> - Is OD of any use?
> - From my read of regs, a five speed is allowed as an alternative when
> replacing a 4spd OD unit, as long as 5th gear is < a 1.1 ratio.  If so, 
> what's
> my best option?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Watson
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sat Oct 13 20:07:03 2012
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 02:07:03 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <20121013.220703.30330.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

Bob, SCCA road racing production car specs for TR3-6 allow the use of any 5
speed transmission, as a replacement for the stock tranny/OD.  So a T5 is fine
and that is what I have been using for about 10 years.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400 (EDT)

> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
stock
>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>> issue....


Like the song says: "same as it ever was".

When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
advantage. ;-)

In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
NO advantage other than reliability.

Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
(about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
wonder why?

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
-----

____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 03:25:45 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 11:25:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000d01cda9ed$e59bf900$b0d3eb00$@com>

A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.



The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
from the camera.

The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.



Cheers

Chris



Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
An: MadMarx
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....



A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.

B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.

C. Whoops.



Jason Ostrowski

Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Oct 14 10:45:58 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 12:45:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] REPAIR PANELS FOR TR4 FRONT FENDER/LOWER AVAILABLE LOW COST
 OFFERING
Message-ID: <8CF784285000B45-1798-43603@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT

Working with Keith Niehaus, Keith developed the tooling to produce subject
repair panels.

The first production run is complete.

Keith is a master craftsman in manufacturing engineering and car
restoration....he did Uncle Jack's "OLD BLUE", the restoration on my TR3A, and
some of the major steel fabrications for the AMBRO.

If you have a need for repair panels in this area of your TR4/TR250, contact
us.

Successful launch of this new product will likely lead to more panels, like
the 'dog leg' leading edge of the rear TR4 fender.

Also under development is the repair panels for the TR6.

This is the initial offering of these panels and will be sold at an
'introductory price'.

NOTE: If anyone is going to be at the VTR Convention, we plan to display them
there.

THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 11:56:34 2012
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 10:56:34 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Message-ID: <13182436.1350237394292.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.

~S


-----Original Message-----
>From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
>To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
>Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>
>
>The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
>from the camera.
>
>The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
>behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.
>
>
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 13:35:20 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 19:35:20 +0000
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Message-ID: <mailman.177.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Why?
6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach showed 7600 rpm as max.
Maybe that fatigued the piston?


------Originalnachricht------
Von: steve
An: MadMarx
Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Antwort an: steve
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56

I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.

~S


-----Original Message-----
>From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
>To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
>Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>
>
>The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
>from the camera.
>
>The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
>behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.
>
>
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>
>


Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone


From johnstydo at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 14:15:26 2012
From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:15:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
References: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>

I watched your video again and didn't see 7600 rpm on your on-screen tach.
Where did you get that?

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 3:35 PM, <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Why?
> 6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
> I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
> On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach
> showed 7600 rpm as max.
> Maybe that fatigued the piston?
>
>
> ------Originalnachricht------
> Von: steve
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Antwort an: steve
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56
>
> I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.
>
> ~S
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> >Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
> >To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
> >Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >
> >
> >The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2  away
> >from the camera.
> >
> >The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
> >behind it looks as it would move 10  around which is not true.
> >
> >
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
> >Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
> >An: MadMarx
> >Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
> >Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
> >
> >C. Whoops.
> >
> >
> >
> >Jason Ostrowski
> >
> >Friendly Ghost Racing
> >
> >On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
>
> Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 14:19:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:19:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
	<CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.178.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Not this video with this little roundabout. Dijon was a week before. On the wet race it happened once and at race 3 another time but not that high.
But it also could be a crack that came from 4 years of use.
 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:15:26 
To: <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: steve<colordog.1 at earthlink.net>; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....

I watched your video again and didn't see 7600 rpm on your on-screen tach.
Where did you get that?

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 3:35 PM, <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Why?
> 6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
> I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
> On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach
> showed 7600 rpm as max.
> Maybe that fatigued the piston?
>
>
> ------Originalnachricht------
> Von: steve
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Antwort an: steve
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56
>
> I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.
>
> ~S
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> >Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
> >To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
> >Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >
> >
> >The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2  away
> >from the camera.
> >
> >The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
> >behind it looks as it would move 10  around which is not true.
> >
> >
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
> >Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
> >An: MadMarx
> >Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
> >Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
> >
> >C. Whoops.
> >
> >
> >
> >Jason Ostrowski
> >
> >Friendly Ghost Racing
> >
> >On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
>
> Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Oct 14 19:53:25 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:53:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
Message-ID: <mailman.179.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big 
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy 
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the 
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and 
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 19:56:51 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 18:56:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>

Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's another
thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have been dead for 40
years.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big beefy cast
thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy cast thing that was
there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy duty looking but does a much
better job of actually clamping onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out
of the lower big beefy one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Oct 14 20:42:49 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
	<611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.180.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Any clues on which borgeson stuff fits the splines on the steering 
rack?  Looks like the shaft would be 9/16 - the only one shown is 
9/16 26 spline, and the other end would need a custom shaft (I have a 
choice of 3/4" smooth bore or 3/4" 36 spline it appears).

Looks like the attachment is more of a "set screw" type of deal.  Is 
that better?

I'd love to update to something strong and reliable.

Thanks, Tony

At 08:56 PM 10/14/2012, Bill Babcock wrote:
>Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's 
>another thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have 
>been dead for 40 years.
>
>On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> > My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big 
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as 
> heavy duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping 
> onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy 
> one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
> >
> > So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
> >
> > Look forward to the advice.
> >
> > Tony Drews
> >
> > PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 21:39:46 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:39:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015024646.60F042C0CE0@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
	<611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
	<20121015024646.60F042C0CE0@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <51798D8D-D179-47D8-9C80-3C25508B6B8D@bnj.com>

I made an adapter from 3/4" Double D-section to the spline required for my
rack. Tony Garmey reworked the setup and made it prettier and more reliable,
but the adapter was just a sleeve that both bits got welded into with a good
quality TIG weld. I used their nice stainless needle bearing joints and billet
steel 3/4" pillow blocks.

Not hard to fabricate, hell for strong, no shake and no wobble. Gotta love all
that. Tony passed the shaft through the cowl roll bar -- I had it going over
that. In a production car I'd use one of their firewall flange bearings and
then a second block just before the first universal.

I drilled dimples into the shaft and ran the setscrews into the dimples before
locking everything down. Going nowhere. I've had my steering come apart on me
once. I can tell you for certain it's not fun.  Ain't happening again.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 7:42 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Any clues on which borgeson stuff fits the splines on the steering rack?
Looks like the shaft would be 9/16 - the only one shown is 9/16 26 spline, and
the other end would need a custom shaft (I have a choice of 3/4" smooth bore
or 3/4" 36 spline it appears).
>
> Looks like the attachment is more of a "set screw" type of deal.  Is that
better?
>
> I'd love to update to something strong and reliable.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 08:56 PM 10/14/2012, Bill Babcock wrote:
>> Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's another
thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have been dead for 40
years.
>>
>> On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
>>
>> > My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big beefy
cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy cast thing that
was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy duty looking but does a
much better job of actually clamping onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh**
out of the lower big beefy one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd
like.
>> >
>> > So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>> >
>> > Look forward to the advice.
>> >
>> > Tony Drews
>> >
>> > PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > fot at autox.team.net
>> >
>> > http://www.fot-racing.com
>> >
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 14 22:25:32 2012
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:25:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>

Tony
Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was worried about the rubber ones.  
Mike

Sent from my Kindle Fire



_____________________________________________
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big 
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy 
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the 
shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and 
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_____________________________________________

fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 22:29:46 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:29:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>

With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the front
straight at Sears Point.

The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Tony
> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was worried
about the rubber ones.
> Mike
>
> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _____________________________________________
>
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 07:34:10 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:34:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <20121013145101.788312D076F@autox.team.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
	<20121013145101.788312D076F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001801cdaad9$c241f4e0$46c5dea0$@net>

Hey Tony maybe the Miata club started this (too get you guys out of the
way.just kidding)
Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2012 10:54 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

Isn't it a bit early in the fall for the annual "what is vintage?" 
discussion?  Normally we wait until like December or January when everyone's
testy from the cold weather.  :)

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wensley_tr at comcast.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 07:49:32 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:49:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
	<A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>

A pair of TR6 U-JOINTS has our replacement parts for the TR4 and Ambro.

Note: I was side by side with an early Lotus 7, at the back straight at
Mosport, when his steering went adrift. Interesting watching this drama unfold
all of the way to the Jersey barriers. Scraping stop to some damage and no
injuries from about 100 mph.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 11:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the front
straight at Sears Point.

The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Tony
> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was
worried
about the rubber ones.
> Mike
>
> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _____________________________________________
>
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From jsnook at wcnet.org  Mon Oct 15 08:29:29 2012
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:29:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3A Parts
Message-ID: <00a001cdaae1$7cc39b50$764ad1f0$@org>

Friends, 

There was some damage to my TR3A during the PVGP this past July.  Glen has
the car at his shop in Stuart, FL, where the repair/restoration has started.
So far there are a couple things that we know for sure are needed and any
help locating them would be greatly appreciated.

1.  Lower valance repair panel for the front nose, to include the tray.
Don't know if anyone is making a repair panel or if we have to go with a
used part.  Hopefully we do not have to purchase a whole nose.

2.  Steering box for a 2-piece steering column set-up.  New, used,
serviceable?  Any and all options considered.

Thanks in advance!

Vroom, vroom,

Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
419-344-0319 (Mobile)


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 15 09:04:15 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:04:15 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
	<A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
	<8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D2519386-33E9-4E52-B252-818654455384@yahoo.com>

Mine has the old rag joints and safety wire.  Might want to change it out over
the winter.

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 15, 2012, at 7:49 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> A pair of TR6 U-JOINTS has our replacement parts for the TR4 and Ambro.
>
> Note: I was side by side with an early Lotus 7, at the back straight at
> Mosport, when his steering went adrift. Interesting watching this drama
unfold
> all of the way to the Jersey barriers. Scraping stop to some damage and no
> injuries from about 100 mph.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
> To: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
> Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 11:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
> you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the
front
> straight at Sears Point.
>
> The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.
>
> On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Tony
>> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was
> worried
> about the rubber ones.
>> Mike
>>
>> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>>
>>
>>
>> _____________________________________________
>> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
>> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>>
>>
>> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
>> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
>> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
>> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
>> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
>> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>>
>> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>>
>> Look forward to the advice.
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
>> _____________________________________________
>>
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 11:14:39 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:14:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] OSTHOFF at ROAD AMERICA - HOST HOTEL KASTNER CUP 2013 5-8
 SEPTEMBER 2013
Message-ID: <8CF790FB14BD640-1318-2775@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>

 LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS AT LESS THAN HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS PRICES.

Bottom line is that cost per night could be less than $100 per couple or less
than $50 per person.

This assume you select a 2 bedroom/2 bathroom suite and team up with another
couple or friends.

This can include a living room, kitchen, and other amenities.

The VSCDA also has activities at the OSTHOFF, including a CAR SHOW.

Kas and Peg will reside at the OSTHOFF.

RESPONSES will help me estimate how many rooms to have set aside in the
contract. I will likely lowball the number of suites set aside to avoid a 20%
liability. The OSTHOFF tends to be in fair demand during this weekend. Thus it
is not too soon to plan and reserve.

Reservation Code will be FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH

The OSTHOFF is on the LAKE, next to historic SIEBKENS, and only about 2 miles
from ROAD AMERICA.

OSTHOFF.COM







Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From igofaster at att.net  Mon Oct 15 11:36:43 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:36:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
Message-ID: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Reality is , we are trying to make these cars do what they were never  intended 
to do... that little red line on the tach of your Triumph was a  maximum mark. 
It was the limit you could hit every once in awhile. It's  not like it was meant 
for these engines to run 7000 rpm for long  durations.
So... with that being the obvious, it doesn't seem to  be a stretch for vintage 
racers to noodle with what could be deemed  more reliable or robust... in the 
name of trying to make these cars do  what they were never intended to do... 
through history of the cars the  guys and gals and teams that were trying to 
make them faster and safer  (sometimes) pushed the envelope of a stock car...  
anybody wants to  argue most vintage racers are stock cars simply opens on the 
observation  of ....  bull****....
Bobby


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 12:24:13 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 14:24:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MRMOxftO5LbMpMK+HKfDAA2X60z76MFL4QPKKyr_4cAA@mail.gmail.com>

well Bobby on another subject...at VIR this past week the "Texas" crowd
showed up in force with about 10 or more racers, they had a company put up
a canopy that was at least 100 by 50 feet and the group surrounded it like
"cowboys"...all backed up to the canopy, they had a great gruop of people
and said that they knew you. We laughed that the" Texas crowd" does it
bigger...and it was...the biggest canopy that I have ever seen ! Great
group of racers and more than hospitable...tried to keep me there drinking
and eating. Keep your chin up and your foot on the pedal...take care.

rob deanes
TR Racer

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 1:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> Reality is , we are trying to make these cars do what they were never
>  intended
> to do... that little red line on the tach of your Triumph was a  maximum
> mark.
> It was the limit you could hit every once in awhile. It's  not like it was
> meant
> for these engines to run 7000 rpm for long  durations.
> So... with that being the obvious, it doesn't seem to  be a stretch for
> vintage
> racers to noodle with what could be deemed  more reliable or robust... in
> the
> name of trying to make these cars do  what they were never intended to
> do...
> through history of the cars the  guys and gals and teams that were trying
> to
> make them faster and safer  (sometimes) pushed the envelope of a stock
> car...
> anybody wants to  argue most vintage racers are stock cars simply opens on
> the
> observation  of ....  bull****....
> Bobby
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Oct 15 12:33:21 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:33:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
"it doesn't seem to be a stretch for vintage
racers to noodle with what could be deemed more reliable or robust... in the
name of trying to make these cars do what they were never intended to do.."

Careful though Bobby,
Everyone has to be realistic and fair to the spirit of competition.
Unlimited classes and different opportunities exist in SCCA and other Club
Racing sanctioning bodies. These more modern production classes still have
places our cars with more radical "safety and speed" developments.
Pass the point of no return and that is where you should end up.
Just because Willwood makes a brake kit that fits on your GT6 doesn't mean
that you should be able to use it in vintage.
We all know this is a slippery slope.
We must all respect the fact that some cars have be running very
successfully for decades in a class legal configuration. It is also not
fair to push perfectly adequate race cars to the back of the grid just
because some better equipment is now available.
The spirit of Vintage must still hold weight and be honored as important.
No body will be mad at you if you want to race on slick tires or tell you
you can't put that car on a tube frame. But I'm glad that rules exist for
vintage that won't let you go to far.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Oct 15 15:14:24 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:14:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5419523E5DFD9327C5D6F6DF710@phx.gbl>

The tach redline is a RECOMMENDATION.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:33:21 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: igofaster at att.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
>
> On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
wrote:
> "it doesn't seem to be a stretch for vintage
> racers to noodle with what could be deemed more reliable or robust... in
the
> name of trying to make these cars do what they were never intended to do.."
>
> Careful though Bobby,
> Everyone has to be realistic and fair to the spirit of competition.
> Unlimited classes and different opportunities exist in SCCA and other Club
> Racing sanctioning bodies. These more modern production classes still have
> places our cars with more radical "safety and speed" developments.
> Pass the point of no return and that is where you should end up.
> Just because Willwood makes a brake kit that fits on your GT6 doesn't mean
> that you should be able to use it in vintage.
> We all know this is a slippery slope.
> We must all respect the fact that some cars have be running very
> successfully for decades in a class legal configuration. It is also not
> fair to push perfectly adequate race cars to the back of the grid just
> because some better equipment is now available.
> The spirit of Vintage must still hold weight and be honored as important.
> No body will be mad at you if you want to race on slick tires or tell you
> you can't put that car on a tube frame. But I'm glad that rules exist for
> vintage that won't let you go to far.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Mon Oct 15 16:48:35 2012
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 16:48:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-W25B06D0C79D822BDCD453190710@phx.gbl>

Your engine is only one rebuild behind the transmission.  Is a Toyota engine
in your future?   Cheers, Henry Morrison

> amen to that
>
>
>
> On 10/12/12 11:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> > I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> > you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> > speed in these cars.
> > The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> > hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between
you and
> > your car is toxic.
> > Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> > Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> > sanctioning rules.
> > Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> > example.
> > Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> > to vintage spirit.
> >
> > I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> > in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run
vintage...
> > Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in
Texas. The
> > car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way
I
> > presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would
put a
> > Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> > Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> > with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> > overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> > exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England... in
> > the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> > receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like
you
> > wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm
going to
> > run the T50.... no problem.
> > I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> > sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
going to
> > continue to run.
> > Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> > pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> > the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> > not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any
business
> > format... IMHO....
> >
> > Bobby Whitehead
> >
> > on the hunt... again.....
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dos_gusanos at msn.com


From malaboge at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 18:48:36 2012
From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:48:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.  The
units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by the
units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a lot
of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_______________________________________________


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 15 19:38:59 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:38:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
	<8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.181.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXcTElpR: Permission denied


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 15 19:47:41 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:47:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
Message-ID: <mailman.182.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Let's try this again in plain text:
So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on 
one of them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it 
tight on the steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even 
relieved some additional metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel 
to help this.  I can slide the shaft in and out of the u-joint 
slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll break it.  This makes 
me very nervous.

It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline 
on both ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set 
screw.  If I drill dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them 
in place.  I've got one coming.

The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct 
styles.  One doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can 
actually pinch the darn thing together and make it nice and 
tight.  Ideally I would find another one of those, but the current 
manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that pattern.

I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the 
problem I have.

Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that 
there are more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one 
is 9*16" x 36 spline?

Thanks, Tony

At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt 
in.  The units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the 
"crummy scale" by the units with eight conical "faucet washers" 
holding it all together.  I do a lot of tech for the local clubs and 
can't even count all of the bad, torn or extremely loose joints I've 
found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed on the track until 
the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer 
setups automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's 
really a "safety upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard 
for brakes, engines, trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Oct 15 20:32:57 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 19:32:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121016014429.0025A2C0D16@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1350354777.31994.YahooMailClassic@web181402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tony: This terrible thought of placing MGB bits on a TR4 is true! Moss Motors
P/N 263-090 does fit the TR shaft. They also have a nice Hardy-Spicer
replacement for the OE  under part number 263-265. I built a R&P steering
conversion to a TR3 using said 263-090 P/N. Would you like me to check my
inventory of MGB steering columns tomorrow to see if I have one for you?
-Ed- 

--- On Mon, 10/15/12, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:


From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, October 15, 2012, 8:47 PM


Let's try this again in plain text:
So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on one of
them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it tight on the
steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even relieved some additional
metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel to help this.  I can slide the
shaft in and out of the u-joint slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll
break it.  This makes me very nervous.

It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline on both
ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set screw.  If I drill
dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them in place.  I've got one
coming.

The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct styles.  One
doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can actually pinch the
darn thing together and make it nice and tight.  Ideally I would find another
one of those, but the current manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that
pattern.

I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the problem I
have.

Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that there are
more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one is 9*16" x 36
spline?

Thanks, Tony

At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.  The
units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by the
units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a lot
of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 22:05:09 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:05:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
	<8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <99F93C4A-8CC5-4AFF-A91D-0D77C9A25DB5@bnj.com>

Seiously guys, the TR6 joints are crap too. I used them on my street TR3 rack
and pinion conversion, but they're not much compared to the modern stuff. It's
not a competitive advantage, just pure safety. SAE considers 5/8" shafts to be
marginal and 3/4" to be appropriate. For the same price of the original stuff
you can get 3/4" double d with hefty universals that have needle bearings
twice the size of the TR6 stuff. Your choice, your butt.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:48 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The
> units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the
> units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot
> of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
> extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't
allowed
> on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
> automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
> upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
> trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 22:13:07 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:13:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121016014431.C264D2C6CD2@autox.team.net>
References: <20121016014431.C264D2C6CD2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <206F65FE-52BA-49A5-B4C0-AFB1FC78F575@bnj.com>

The borgeson joints actually have two set screws. The shaft they are supposed
to screw into is hollow. You drill a hole through one side of the hollow shaft
and run the screw through to the other side. the second set screw goes into a
dimple you drill. Both set screws are locked with a locknut. This is a pretty
positive locking arrangement. Kind of what you might want your steering to
use.

the TR6 joints are designed for splined shafts with a flat ground into them.
You pinch the housing onto the spline, but it's really the bolt passing by the
flat that locks the assembly in. And yes, they are kind of cludgy compared to
modern practice. They don't lock down well and there's some wiggle in the
resulting system from the loose fit on the splines. It took quite a bit of
grinding and some good, hard flange bolts the actually get it all locked down
for my street car. If it wiggles a tiny bit I'm tossing it all on top of my
pile of lucas distributors and replacing it with Borgeson stuff--which works
flawlessly.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 6:47 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Let's try this again in plain text:
> So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on one of
them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it tight on the
steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even relieved some additional
metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel to help this.  I can slide the
shaft in and out of the u-joint slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll
break it.  This makes me very nervous.
>
> It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline on both
ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set screw.  If I drill
dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them in place.  I've got one
coming.
>
> The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct styles.  One
doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can actually pinch the
darn thing together and make it nice and tight.  Ideally I would find another
one of those, but the current manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that
pattern.
>
> I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the problem
I have.
>
> Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that there are
more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one is 9*16" x 36
spline?
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:
>
> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 22:40:48 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 22:40:48 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <99F93C4A-8CC5-4AFF-A91D-0D77C9A25DB5@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.183.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

That MGB U-joint looks pretty nifty but looks heavy. Are they available in
titanium ?
jg

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 10:05 PM
To: malaboge at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4

Seiously guys, the TR6 joints are crap too. I used them on my street TR3
rack
and pinion conversion, but they're not much compared to the modern stuff.
It's
not a competitive advantage, just pure safety. SAE considers 5/8" shafts to
be
marginal and 3/4" to be appropriate. For the same price of the original
stuff
you can get 3/4" double d with hefty universals that have needle bearings
twice the size of the TR6 stuff. Your choice, your butt.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:48 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The
> units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the
> units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot
> of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
> extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't
allowed
> on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
> automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
> upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
> trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Oct 16 10:53:56 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 12:53:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TRANSPORT FOR TRIUMPH RACERS 2013 KASTNER CUP ROAD AMERICA
Message-ID: <8CF79D5F6BCEDBD-EDC-327E@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT,

If anyone has visibility to low cost transporters PLEASE publish to this list
and the FOT WEBSITE.

We have a need to transport cars from SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, perhaps the PACIFIC
NORTHWEST, and other locations in NORTH AMERICA.  For starters, we have four
cars in SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA that need to get to Road America next September.

Thank you very much!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Tue Oct 16 17:30:26 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:30:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
Message-ID: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>

Well, miracles never cease!
Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
restoration process...
Today we fired up the ole hound.

My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
met its symbolic (near) completion today.
Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.

Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
And raced it until 1985.
Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
at the track had taken its toll.
The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
foul-mouthed swearing.
To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
its stock appearance.
After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
started.
I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
fired up.
Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
withstand a 27 year hibernation.
He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
basement.
I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
flawless "showroom stock" trim..
I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
have to use my wallet to finish it..
Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
looking.
Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.

Jason Ostrowski
GT6 Nut head.


From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Oct 16 17:39:51 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 17:39:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>

Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.


From kkjjk at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 17:50:23 2012
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 19:50:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>

agreed



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 16, 2012 7:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy


Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com


From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Tue Oct 16 18:07:14 2012
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:07:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>

Well done! And well written!  Congrats!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
> 
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
> 
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
> 
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 16 18:23:36 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:23:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <F5BF5942-A383-4037-A4F1-142BBAE54B04@yahoo.com>

Jason

Do you have any pictures you can post?  I am sure we would all love to see it!
I just started a restoration on a TR4, and although I don't have the history
you have, I am looking forward to the end result!

Thx

Ty

Tyler Thompson l National Account Executive - Public Safety Sector
esri | One International Court | Broomfield, CO 80021
Phone: 303.449-7779 ext. 8260, cell: 719.510-1649 |
E-mail: tyler_thompson at esri.com


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 16, 2012, at 6:07 PM, Todd Redmond <alfetta95 at optonline.net> wrote:

> Well done! And well written!  Congrats!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
wrote:
>
>> Well, miracles never cease!
>> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
>> restoration process...
>> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>>
>> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
>> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
>> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this
undying
>> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
>> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>>
>> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
>> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
>> And raced it until 1985.
>> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
>> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
>> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
>> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
>> at the track had taken its toll.
>> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
>> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
>> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
>> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
>> foul-mouthed swearing.
>> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
>> its stock appearance.
>> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get
it
>> started.
>> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
>> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
>> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
>> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
>> fired up.
>> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
>> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
>> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
>> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
>> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
>> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
>> basement.
>> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
>> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
>> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
>> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
>> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
>> have to use my wallet to finish it..
>> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
>> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
>> looking.
>> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
>> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>>
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> GT6 Nut head.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Oct 16 18:25:53 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:25:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>

Jason, it's "Opossum".  Congratulations!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 18:39:38 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:39:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1988AFDD4DD857C131A0A9EB2770@phx.gbl>

That is AWESOME!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-16, at 7:30 PM, "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From clw2000 at msn.com  Tue Oct 16 18:44:34 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:44:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU402-EAS3968D3FAA4C59B108747AC6BF770@phx.gbl>

Best thing I've read in a while. Congrats Jason.  Send pics.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>
wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Tue Oct 16 19:19:24 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 01:19:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.184.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

John, they are "SCARY"
Thanks.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:25:53 
To: Jason Ostrowski<jason at multivintage.com>
Cc: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy

Jason, it's "Opossum".  Congratulations!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
> 
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
> 
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
> 
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 13:21:39 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:21:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>

That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into  "B"
 
 
In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
igofaster at att.net writes:

sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" ....  broke....

Bobby


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 13 13:43:01 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:43:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
References: <D26321C3-3641-408D-B3C9-572605486A20@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <9D8D6DE1-C5DC-41A9-B5FB-BED444E4A654@gdhs.com>

For every ones info
Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Date: October 13, 2012 3:42:03 PM EDT
> To: "Snowdonracing at aol.com" <Snowdonracing at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
>
> Thanks Ray that just about clears up my question. So, "same number of
gears". Would my 4 speed with OD mean I could replace with a 5 speed & a
weight. Penalty?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 9:39 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>
>> By special rules; do you mean the Make and Model Regs for the TR3 ??
>> The way I have understood these rules is that the Make and Model Regs. show
the original specs and equipment for that particular car.  The Supplemental
Regs for the Group apply to all cars (aka all Make and Models) that are in
that Group.  So, in your case, the Make and Model Regs for the TR3 show the
original trans (4 speed) with an optional overdrive.  The Group 3
Supplementals say that you can replace that original trans with another
Production Based unit, same # of gears, but with a weight penalty.
>>
>> In other words, the Make and Models set the BASICS, including some do's and
don'ts at the bottom.
>> The Group Supplementals tell us what we can do over and above those Make
and Model Basics.
>> Hope this helps.
>> Ray
>>
>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 8:46:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>> Thanks Ray. I know that is what the  G3 rules say; but the special rules
for TR3's states original transmissions. So the rules say one thing under G3
and another under TR3-4.  How are we to know which one is correct?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hi John,
>>>
>>>     Thanks for the note and sorry you are having issues.  There is a
substitution rule in the Group 3 Supplementals already.  It states:
>>> "Standard gearbox may be replaced with an alternate PRODUCTION BASED
GEARBOX of the same number of forward speeds.  ADD 75LBS. TO OFFICIAL WEIGHT.
When replacing a 4-speed w/overdrive unit with a 5-speed, the 5th gear must be
lower numerically than 1 : 1."
>>> If a non-standard gearbox is being used, it must be declared on the RCIS
sheet for the vehicle.
>>> Your Triumph, TR3, lists a 4-speed with Laycock overdrive optional.  That
means 5 forward speeds.
>>> So, the rules are already there.  Cars that were never equipped with
overdrive, or as an option, must continue to keep their original number of
forward speeds.
>>> The number of forward speeds is something that we will be checking on for
2013 as we step up on rules enforcement.
>>> I hope this answers your questions.
>>> Ray
>>>
>>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 1:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>>> Ray:
>>>     As our Triumphs, MGs, Morgans, Elvas etc. get even older than they
>>> already are, a number of us are having transmission problems with the
>>> original gear boxes which are causing frequent costly repairs and I
>>> understand that MGs are also having source problems as well.  While I
>>> understand the spirit of the rules and try to keep my TR within them,
>>> reliability and the cost of fixing old "stuff" is becoming a problem
which
>>> may well keep some of us from participating in as many events as we might
>>> otherwise like.  For instance I just spent $730 to go through my TR box
and
>>> after the Gold Cup, it feels like it needs it again.  It may well be time
to
>>> consider, in the interest of safety and reliability, allowing these cars
to
>>> use the readily available GM and Toyota 5 speed transmission conversions.
I
>>> note also, that 4 speeds vs. 5 speeds is not a problem in as much as
these
>>> old English cars had overdrive units available which, like my car, give
you
>>> an effective 5 speed unit.
>>>     I would also note that there are already some cars using these
>>> conversions and there should be a "level playing field" approach
considered
>>> as well.  Please give some thought to this with your Tech staff .  I look
>>> forward to your response....
>>>
>>> John H. Hasty  SVRA # 8326
>>> Attorney At Law
>>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>>> 719 East Boulevard
>>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>>> www.gdhs.com
>>>
>>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
>>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
that
>>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
>>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
>>> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>>>
>>> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
>>> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
>>> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any
attachments)
>>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes
of
>>> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
>>> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
>>> addressed herein.


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 21:37:03 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:37:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>
References: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>

LMAO

Last outing of the year, 2nd last session.  Bolt backed out of roto flex made
contact with inner hub/vert link, ruined axle, broke the diff and probably
finished the already weak transmission.  Good thing I have all the spare parts
on hand and Im a GT6 nut.   Along with some planned engine improvements I'll
be busy in the garage all winter doing the drive train ars to tea kettle....


Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-16, at 11:07 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

> That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into  "B"
>
>
> In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> igofaster at att.net writes:
>
> sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" ....  broke....
>
> Bobby
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From clw2000 at msn.com  Wed Oct 17 05:10:40 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 07:10:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>
References: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>,
	<SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W61CCA077121DB1E2F471A9BF770@phx.gbl>

Glad it wasn't your neck that made contact!  If you're running the stock donut
system, now is the opportunity to upgrade that roto system to something
race-worthy!  Lot's of info in the FOT archives for this fix.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson










> From: vangoughv at hotmail.com
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:37:03 -0400
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com
> CC: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> LMAO
>
> Last outing of the year, 2nd last session. Bolt backed out of roto flex
made
> contact with inner hub/vert link, ruined axle, broke the diff and probably
> finished the already weak transmission. Good thing I have all the spare
parts
> on hand and Im a GT6 nut. Along with some planned engine improvements I'll
> be busy in the garage all winter doing the drive train ars to tea
kettle....
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-10-16, at 11:07 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> > That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into "B"
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > igofaster at att.net writes:
> >
> > sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" .... broke....
> >
> > Bobby
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 19:16:13 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:16:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wheel arches
Message-ID: <D70FCCD9-DF98-4DAF-A6DD-B2DD26C55898@aol.com>

If my bad memory serves me correctly there was a member looking for spitfire
wheel arches.   I have a donor.  Just pay shipping.
Contact me off list.


From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 18 09:46:59 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 08:46:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
	<8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1350575219.64087.YahooMailRC@web182202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

PIX for the KIDS !

Bobby




________________________________
From: "kkjjk at aol.com" <kkjjk at aol.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, October 16, 2012 7:00:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy

agreed



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 16, 2012 7:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy


Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Oct 18 13:25:21 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 15:25:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT 2013 KASTNER CUP SPONSORS to date TRUE FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH!
Message-ID: <8CF7B7D72BB84EA-1F58-199B@webmail-m067.sysops.aol.com>

 YES.....WE HAVE "SPONSORS".

THE HONOR ROLL

CHRIS BOCK
TODD REDMOND
BOB LANG
TONY SCHEACH
JEFF SNOOK
DAVE HOGYE
THE KAHLERS
BOB DAVIS
BOB BOWNES
CHARLES WATSON
BOB KRAMER
BOBBY WHITEHEAD
BILL DENTINGER
CLIVE AVERILL
WARREN APLIN
JOHN FRIDIRICI

The FOT thanks you......................PRETTY AMAZING for a non-organization
with no dues.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 21:23:31 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 21:23:31 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
Message-ID: <mailman.185.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the 

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with

 

Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/

 

jim g


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Oct 19 22:03:11 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 23:03:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032947.C18CA2C0BF7@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032947.C18CA2C0BF7@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000901cdae77$d24a7a50$76df6ef0$@com>

Fantastic pictures, thanks!!!  It looks like the exhaust charge would go up
that wall and around and out.  In other words it didn't look all that bad to
my "untrained" eye.  The photos really show the large amount cooling around
the exhaust valve guide and the small amount around the intake guide.  They
also show the benefits of cutting off the guides so they don't stick into
the ports.  Thanks again,

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:24 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the 

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with

 

Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/

 

jim g
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 19 22:18:07 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 21:18:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032936.D13A12D0717@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032936.D13A12D0717@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake is
not that much better.
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the
>
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
>
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
>
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
> with
>
>
>
> Pix are on photobucket
>
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
>
>
>
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 00:04:17 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 00:04:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.186.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the charge
is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss. 
The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make some
of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

jg


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
To: Jim Gray
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
is not that much better. 
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the 
> 
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
> 
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
> 
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
experiment
> with
> 
> 
> 
> Pix are on photobucket
> 
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
> 
> 
> 
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 06:43:43 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:43:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020061739.B4A592D075A@autox.team.net>
References: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>,
	<20121020061739.B4A592D075A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W19094B8F6649F97745AAD9BA740@phx.gbl>

Thanks for posting the picts Jim. FWIW, I purchased David Vizard's Theory and
Practice of Cylinder Head Modification a long time ago. He addresses the TR3/4
head pretty well in the book. On the subject of cutting the valve guides so
they don't project into the flow path, this seems like such a good idea, and
the factory could have saved a penny or so by making them shorter to start
with it makes me wonder why they did not do that from the beginning? This is
timely discussion as I am getting ready to butcher, er I mean modify a TR4
head. :)


From tlizzard at msn.com  Sat Oct 20 07:54:12 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 09:54:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020061728.C7F162D0753@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020061728.C7F162D0753@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds63F13EAA141E4A1A99B48C3740@phx.gbl>

And to think that this is the "improved" head compared to the original TR2/TR3
design...


Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Jim Gray<mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
  To: 'Bill Babcock'<mailto:ponobill at gmail.com>
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 2:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )


  The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the
charge
  is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
  benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss.
  The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
  valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
  I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make
some
  of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

  jg


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
  Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
  To: Jim Gray
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

  Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
  is not that much better.
  On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net<mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net>> wrote:

  > FoT,
  > I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
  > guides. It sure is a different view of the
  >
  > TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around
the
  > back of the valve guide boss
  >
  > and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just
outside
  > the valve seat.
  >
  > We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
  experiment
  > with
  >
  >
  >
  > Pix are on photobucket
  >
  >
http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/<http://s698.
photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/>
  >
  >
  >
  > jim g
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
  >
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 20 08:03:14 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 16:03:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032924.EA4032D074A@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032924.EA4032D074A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000101cdaecb$a73e3b40$f5bab1c0$@com>

Interesting how thin the head walls are.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Jim Gray
Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 05:24
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with



Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/



jim g
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 08:36:42 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:36:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcF92O2PX9ytJSnGRW_D=f_xCP=_JaWZNd-veNy0Y-=5eg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.187.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm definitely going to be looking at valve seats. They play a really big
roll in the overall flow.

As far as valve guides go we will do some testing with and without. More
importantly though

I want to try a fuel shear ramp before and after the valve / guides to
smooth turbulence.

I want to get maximum velocity first.

jim

 

 

  _____  

From: John Styduhar [mailto:johnstydo at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 6:30 AM
To: Jim Gray
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

 

Great work Jim.  Do you have any plans to test modifications other than port
design, like valve seat profile and whether or not grinding of the exposed
valve guides has any effect on flow?  

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 2:04 AM, Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the charge
is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss.
The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make some
of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
To: Jim Gray
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
is not that much better.
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the
>
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
>
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
>
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
experiment
> with
>
>
>
> Pix are on photobucket
>
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
>
>
>
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sjanzen at me.com  Sat Oct 20 09:27:33 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:27:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
Message-ID: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>

The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.  

Sent from my mobile device 


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 09:31:21 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 10:31:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <83995CA5-2B32-4B91-9ADA-41C21D9ED91E@gmail.com>

I'm happy with the Mallory Unilite on the TR engine in our Morgan (and in our
non-TR engined Morgan also).

Duncan

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From triosan at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 09:38:45 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:38:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAyJqu9QT_MFg=DMjiEA=N3BtoiA6gS_JHKR2Jb8YqJhg@mail.gmail.com>

Pertronix makes a distributor with Ignitor II ignition. Works great in my
TR6. They have one for the four also.

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 8:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As
> I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
> replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported
> quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if
> you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From fubog1 at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 09:47:48 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:47:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>

 Lucas of course, usually a model 45 with Allison/Crane optical unit.

Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 20, 2012 11:29 am
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4


The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on
my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take this
car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So,
should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues with
Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known good
set-up you want to sell, let me know.

Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From kaskas at cox.net  Sat Oct 20 09:48:12 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 15:48:12 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-3 & 4 ports
Message-ID: <SNT120-W825AD22E65B8C317BC509DF740@phx.gbl>

For those of you that have my book "Historical and Technical Guide" published
in 2008, there are Mordy Dunst photos of the cross sections of the ports on
page 58 and my suggestion line for porting with advice on the weld fill on the
exhaust port also.  Neat that Jim is following up with more detail.

Never be beaten by equipment


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 10:14:36 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 12:14:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MSVgygx+qqFW93LGmS5Uq9K63vVHZWaeCUOub7xFHkNg@mail.gmail.com>

Scott, I use a Pertronics dist. on my racer and have had only one
problem...three years later.... since I put it in in 2007 and Pertronics
suppoort was great with a new unit for free. Just my two cents.

rob deanes
TR Racer

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 11:47 AM, fubog1 <fubog1 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Lucas of course, usually a model 45 with Allison/Crane optical unit.
>
> Glen
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
> To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 20, 2012 11:29 am
> Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
>
> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition
> on
> my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
> this
> car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So,
> should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
> with
> Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
> good
> set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 20 10:14:35 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:14:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <CD0569BA-60E1-463E-8E2D-2C881DA9A1E3@sbcglobal.net>

Lucas 25D -
send it to Advanced Distributors
for a complete rebuild.
612-804-5543
Jeff can also supply you with a core if you don' have one.

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 09:45:50 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
Message-ID: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>

We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't 
think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
 
For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the 
TR4's are the same....
 
 
In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sjanzen at me.com writes:

The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered 
ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may 
take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based 
replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality 
issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you 
have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.  

Sent from my  mobile device  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From jhouathome at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 11:12:38 2012
From: jhouathome at aol.com (John Houlton)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 12:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>

Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
John

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 11:37:21 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 13:37:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT403-EAS44406A25AFBF8FA1BA37F04B2740@phx.gbl>

Installed a Pertronix on Both my race and street GT6.  Excellent results.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-20, at 1:18 PM, "John Houlton" <jhouathome at aol.com> wrote:

> Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
> John
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 20 15:33:49 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 23:33:49 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>

I run Pertronix I.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4

The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.

Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 20 17:38:48 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:38:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
Message-ID: <7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>

We use a dist from Moss called I think, "race" with protrpnix and their coil
Never any problem. I think it is aMG dist at any rate be sure and use thee red
rotor

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 20, 2012, at 5:33 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I run Pertronix I.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Scott Janzen
> Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
> An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Sat Oct 20 18:06:32 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 18:06:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
Message-ID: <58CC71DA-33AC-4E52-B4AF-3A84DDC7AAC0@yahoo.com>

TrueSpark electronic from BP Northwest.  My Mallory dual point developed top
end wobble making it hard to time. The TrueSpark has bushings to adjust total
advance.  Mark Eden bought one and I followed his lead.

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 20, 2012, at 11:12 AM, John Houlton <jhouathome at aol.com> wrote:

> Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
> John
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 20 18:18:17 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:18:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
	<7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <D648C2D8-A4AE-4BFC-AEB8-E99912C1B560@sbcglobal.net>

'The Red Rotor' is sourced from Advanced Distributors.

On Oct 20, 2012, at 6:38 PM, John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> We use a dist from Moss called I think, "race" with protrpnix and their
coil
> Never any problem. I think it is aMG dist at any rate be sure and use thee
red
> rotor
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 5:33 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>> I run Pertronix I.
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>> Auftrag von Scott Janzen
>> Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
>> An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
>> Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition
>> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
> take
>> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
>> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
> issues
>> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
> known
>> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net


From horizonracing at msn.com  Sun Oct 21 10:48:43 2012
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 09:48:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>

Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success is :malloy alloy dist.
pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm wires.  Although not
perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo costly and most important
to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2 seasons before they need a
basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight bushings fail (plastic). The malloy
rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also, the CSRG folks do not allow MSD ign.,
so the box is placed in a discreet location..... painted black.  I guess they
don't want the BIG RED box to be seen...or something like that.  I'm also
interested in what other racers are using.   CheersTony Garmey
 > From: Gt6steve at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400
> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
> We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
> think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
>
> For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
> TR4's are the same....
>
>
> In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> sjanzen at me.com writes:
>
> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As
I may
> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported
quality
> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you
> have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my  mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 21 11:37:15 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:37:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
	<SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>

I liked the simplicity of the Mallory dual points with total loss battery,
though I admit to a few embarassing incidents when the battery went flat. When
Tony took over maintenance of Peyote he went immediately to a pertronix unit,
which I had abandoned feeling they need more than the 12 or less volts of a
total loss system under load. Of course they worked fine for him. He also
added an alternator, which has been a bit of a mixed bag. When you rev
fequently to 7K the vibrations are tough on alternator mounts. Slowing the
alternator helps, but it's still a heavy weight on the far end of a system
that's shaking like a cheap blender.

The bottom line with Peyote is that under Tony's care I've broken all my
personal lap records at every track I run at, every year. And the car runs
flawlessly.  I know damned well it's not the driver getting better.


On Oct 21, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success is :malloy alloy dist.
> pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm wires.  Although not
> perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo costly and most
important
> to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2 seasons before they need a
> basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight bushings fail (plastic). The
malloy
> rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also, the CSRG folks do not allow MSD
ign.,
> so the box is placed in a discreet location..... painted black.  I guess
they
> don't want the BIG RED box to be seen...or something like that.  I'm also
> interested in what other racers are using.   CheersTony Garmey
>> From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400
>> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
>> think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
>>
>> For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
>> TR4's are the same....
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> sjanzen at me.com writes:
>>
>> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
>> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range.
As
> I may
>> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
>> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given
reported
> quality
>> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you
>> have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my  mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From stutzmans at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 12:31:00 2012
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 14:31:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>

I'm surprised to hear that some of the racers are using new Pertronix 
dizzys.  I think they are made in India; but for whatever reason I'm not 
impressed with their build quality as compared with the old Lucas 25D and 
45D dizzys.  When properly sorted out on a Sun machine 25Ds and 45Ds (Glen 
likes the 45D because of its big cap) give excellent service.
A very important issue for racers is cam lobe accuracy which is an easy test 
on a Sun machine.  I've almost always found Lucas 4 cylinder dizzys to be 
right on.  Not so much on the Lucas 22D6 (TR6 dizzy) though.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 11:27 AM
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4


> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered 
> ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As 
> I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based 
> replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given 
> reported quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts? 
> And, if you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 12:54:10 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 12:54:10 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
Message-ID: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>

I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving 
problem.
It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and check 
it out.
There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but 
the basic
functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.   
It will be
a while before I get all the missing mail back in there, should be done 
sometime
during the week.

And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a 
few pennies
and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty IPA 
or a some
of their Imperial Red...


mjb.


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Oct 21 13:19:35 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 15:19:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Just a test-delete
Message-ID: <1d211.3e06ad28.3db5a4c7@aol.com>

This is a test, please ignore;-))  Steve


From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 21 13:49:18 2012
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 12:49:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
	<SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
	<BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <1350848958.35951.YahooMailNeo@web162502.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

We use a mallory duel point with one set blocked the other triggering
a MSD
6AL-2 with MSD 8.2 wires.The Mallory is easy to rebuild and
recurve. MSD have
rules you must follow or failure will be immanent
however should that happen
it is easy to bypass and just use the dual
point and stay racing for the
weekend.


From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Tony and Annie Garmey
<horizonracing at msn.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012
12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4

I liked the
simplicity of the Mallory dual points with total loss battery,
though I admit
to a few embarassing incidents when the battery went flat. When
Tony took over
maintenance of Peyote he went immediately to a pertronix unit,
which I had
abandoned feeling they need more than the 12 or less volts of a
total loss
system under load. Of course they worked fine for him. He also
added an
alternator, which has been a bit of a mixed bag. When you rev
fequently to 7K
the vibrations are tough on alternator mounts. Slowing the
alternator helps,
but it's still a heavy weight on the far end of a system
that's shaking like a
cheap blender.

The bottom line with Peyote is that under Tony's care I've
broken all my
personal lap records at every track I run at, every year. And
the car runs
flawlessly.  I know damned well it's not the driver getting
better.


On Oct 21, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Tony and Annie Garmey
<horizonracing at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success
is :malloy alloy dist.
> pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm
wires.  Although not
> perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo
costly and most
important
> to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2
seasons before they need a
> basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight
bushings fail (plastic). The
malloy
> rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also,
the CSRG folks do not allow MSD
ign.,
> so the box is placed in a discreet
location..... painted black.  I guess
they
> don't want the BIG RED box to be
seen...or something like that.  I'm also
> interested in what other racers are
using.   CheersTony Garmey
>> From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012
11:45:50 -0400
>> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot]
Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> We've seen some strange maladies with
the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
>> think you can beat the points Mallory
for performance and  reliability.
>>
>> For the Herald based cars you order
the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
>> TR4's are the same....
>>
>>
>> In a
message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> sjanzen at me.com
writes:
>>
>> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank
triggered
>> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm
range.
As
> I may
>> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a
distributor-based
>> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic
guts, given
reported
> quality
>> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc? 
Other thoughts?  And, if you
>> have  a known good set-up you want to sell,
let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my  mobile device
>>
_______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com
>>
_______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/j.wags63 at yahoo.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 14:45:22 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 14:45:22 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
In-Reply-To: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
References: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>

Well the FOT archives are not working as planned.  For some reason April 
and May
have duplicate entries, and the October archive is not showing up at 
all, even though
mail is going into it.

It is a cool and cloudy day, so while I ought to be out in the garage 
I'll keep working
on Team.Net for a while.

It's always something!

mjb.


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 15:35:57 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 15:35:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-3 & 4 ports
Message-ID: <50846ABD.7000107@bradakis.com>

>  For those of you that have my book "Historical and Technical Guide"

That reminds me, I need to get new copies of the three books that I loaned out
that never came back.  Sad story, I won't go into details.  But with Christmas
coming up it may be time to drop a few hints around the relatives.

And the FOT archives seem to be in better health now, with all of September and
October up to date.

mjb.


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun Oct 21 15:36:20 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 16:36:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
In-Reply-To: <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>
References: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
  <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <A7B28AA8-EC07-4231-9A5A-8DB253688CAE@consolidated.net>

Thanks for all you do

Kg

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 21, 2012, at 3:45 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Well the FOT archives are not working as planned.  For some reason April and
May
> have duplicate entries, and the October archive is not showing up at all,
even though
> mail is going into it.
>
> It is a cool and cloudy day, so while I ought to be out in the garage I'll
keep working
> on Team.Net for a while.
>
> It's always something!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphs at consolidated.net


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Oct 22 09:45:51 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:45:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
Message-ID: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>

I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google searches as being used for marine applications, though there's nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?

Here's the current spec:
non-resistor plug
Thread Size: 14mm
Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
Hex Size: 13/16"
Heat Range: 8
Gap: 1.02mm (.040")


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 22 09:58:51 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 10:58:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.188.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the 
BP6HS is colder.

Tony

At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at 
>Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new 
>plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google 
>searches as being used for marine applications, though there's 
>nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam 
>that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs 
>are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>
>Here's the current spec:
>non-resistor plug
>Thread Size: 14mm
>Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>Hex Size: 13/16"
>Heat Range: 8
>Gap: 1.02mm (.040")


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Oct 22 10:01:06 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:01:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
Message-ID: <A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>

I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.  He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.

Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what I have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.  He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.

So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points for now, at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500 on hand.

Thanks to the group for all the feedback.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 10:08:33 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 09:08:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
Message-ID: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum dust
ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter
of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts in
a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other improvements.  He uses a
high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it does not flex, fits tightly
and does not have the problems of most replacement caps available.  He also
supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He says he can run the single points
set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine without scatter.  My unit will be set up
with advance of 18 degrees at idle (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000
rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and the
plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He indicated
that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec for only a few
months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I mentioned that
inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to have cured the
scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the electronic unit
masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.  He will rebuild
these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500 on
hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:17:09 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:17:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>

Good day to all.
IIRC the heat range on NGK plugs run opposite.  The smaller the number is the
hotter plug.  They are opposite to the Champion heat ranges.  Not positive and
I'm sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
HTH
Sam Clark
Tulsa, OK
Green Country Triumphs.

On Oct 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the
> BP6HS is colder.
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at
>> Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new
>> plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google
>> searches as being used for marine applications, though there's
>> nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam
>> that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs
>> are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>>
>> Here's the current spec:
>> non-resistor plug
>> Thread Size: 14mm
>> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>> Hex Size: 13/16"
>> Heat Range: 8
>> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")


From tlizzard at msn.com  Mon Oct 22 10:29:17 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:29:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds11B4FE69806037FF9381DDC37A0@phx.gbl>

Hard to beat NGKs.

Run with what works.



Terry Stetler


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Oct 22 10:40:24 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 18:40:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>

"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:41:06 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:41:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7E8B2A5C62BD-1DE8-187F0@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>

 The 45 has the bigger cap to prevent spark-scatter and some of the caps even
had internal ribs cast inside for that.
The early 45 points type has the asymmetrical cam and the advance is easy to
modify.
For those still using points, the later electronic 45s can be fitted with a
"eurospec" shaft assembly, with late cam and usually less mechanical advance.
HTH
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 12:13 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.



> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter
of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts
in


From fubog1 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:42:28 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:42:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
	<82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7E8B5B2D557D-1DE8-18814@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>

 Yes NGK higher # = colder.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Sam <trdoctor at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 12:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs


Good day to all.
IIRC the heat range on NGK plugs run opposite.  The smaller the number is the
hotter plug.  They are opposite to the Champion heat ranges.  Not positive
and
I'm sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
HTH
Sam Clark
Tulsa, OK
Green Country Triumphs.

On Oct 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the
> BP6HS is colder.
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at
>> Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new
>> plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google
>> searches as being used for marine applications, though there's
>> nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam
>> that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs
>> are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>>
>> Here's the current spec:
>> non-resistor plug
>> Thread Size: 14mm
>> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>> Hex Size: 13/16"
>> Heat Range: 8
>> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 11:01:22 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:01:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
Message-ID: <1174703159.492614.1350925282199.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Chris,

If you like that we'll have to get you out punkin chunkin one of these days.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>, "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 10:40:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues. B He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements. B He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available. B He also supplies rotors (red) made for him. B He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter. B My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6. B He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms. B The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either. B He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason. B I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price. B He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 11:30:23 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 13:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9ODVroDLepkYBnxy5LVYO0JkejSSD7b=b5s2kAJAwyZjQ@mail.gmail.com>

The NGK BP8HS-10 is a marine plug used in most Yamaha engines.....BR8HS-10
is the Resistor plug....but they work great in TRs also....I run that same
plug in my TR-4 racer and I am happy with it....works great in  boat too !

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at Summit
> Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new plugs.  The
> current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google searches as being
> used for marine applications, though there's nothing in the part number
> that indicates that use.
> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam that the
> engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs are running
> light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>
> Here's the current spec:
> non-resistor plug
> Thread Size: 14mm
> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
> Hex Size: 13/16"
> Heat Range: 8
> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 22 17:42:53 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 19:42:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
Message-ID: <8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>

a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.

afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------

two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fitted in
the future.

All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the FOT in
the midwest.

Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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From list at mackenzie.aero  Mon Oct 22 18:06:10 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 19:06:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4s for Sale in Austin, Texas
Message-ID: <000601cdb0b2$357f60e0$a07e22a0$@aero>

Posting this for a friend who has some cars needing new homes.  Pick them up
on F1 weekend!
************************************************************************
 
Three TR4s for sale
One 1962
One 1963
One 1964
All are red with wire wheels, and all are located at Ron Shimek Auto at 824
Romeria Dr in Austin, very near the DPS office at 2222 and Lamar.  Call me
1st if you'd like to look and either I can meet you there or let Ron know
you are coming by.  He can answer many of your questions about each.
 
All have clear titles and are ready for legal sale
 
Here are the currently available pictures: http://photobucket.com/TR4s  The
unlabeled pix are of the 1962; the other two are labeled with the year
first, then pic number, so you can tell them apart.
 
They are in various conditions:
1962 is ready to drive with new timing chain and new front wheel bearings.
Tires are tired, needs paint and could use some rocker repair, but have all
trim.  Interior is decent, excellent top.  Will need some tinkering with
electrics to get inspected.  Ideally Offers over $9k-I have more than this
into it.
 
The 1963 is ready to restore but has nice correct signal red paint, a couple
spots need wet-sanding down low to eliminate minor runs.  Top ok.  Needs
interior re-do, has metal dash and the speedo and tach were re-worked, ready
to go back into the car.  Except for one small spot bubbling under pain on
hood, car is pretty much rust free.  The car was owned by a retired preacher
in San Antonio, and was garaged for about 10 years.  Motor was started and
ran briefly, but needs carb work.  Unknown condition of other mechanicals,
but have no reason to believe any have major issues ('course, I could be
wrong).  This is a great solid car deserving of a proper resto.  Prefer
Offers over $4k
 
The 1964 has the best paint, though not necessarily Triumph correct red, and
suspect it was originally white.  It has a brand new Triumph interior, red
with white piping.  Best wheels of the 3.  Probably needs head gasket among
other things, likely some clutch and brake hydraulics, too.  Has an
after-market hard top, not sure if it was ever actually attached to car, and
unknown condition of soft top.  I have $8k in this one.
 
Way too much on my plate and need to sell all three-MOTIVATED!  Would be
happy to entertain a package deal for two or all three.
 
Thanks!
 
Dave Foreman
Mobile: 512-576-1933
E: Dave at Beanitos.com; 


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Oct 23 00:55:44 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (Christian Marx)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 23:55:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>

So let me test the word.
A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air
it had been flung?
 Am 23.10.2012 01:43 schrieb "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>:

> a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.
>
> afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fittedin the future.
>
> All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the
> FOT in the midwest.
>
> Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.
>
>
>  Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
>  "flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
> what it means.
> Ah, I see. Catapult language.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net <fot-bounces at autox.team.net?>] Im
> Auftrag von Bill Babcock
> Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
> An: Scott Janzen
> Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.
>
> We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
> the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
> dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
> On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
> He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
> diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
> assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
> improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
> does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
> replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
> says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
> without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
> (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
> >
> > Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> > I
> have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
> stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
> the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
> indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
> for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
> mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
> have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
> electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
> He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
> >
> > So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> > for now,
> at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
> on hand.
> >
> > Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 05:05:34 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:05:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <8CF7F241AF7C0C0-17B0-340CC@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CF7F241AF7C0C0-17B0-340CC@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7F25750DBBA4-17B0-34148@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>

Hmmm... maybe... but the F16 isn't a carrier based aircraft.... (grin)
Glen


A F16 on an aircraft carrier







-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 23, 2012 3:07 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


So let me test the word.

A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air

it had been flung?


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Oct 23 05:32:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 13:32:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com><5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC><A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com><0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com><001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com><8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>

Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
hold back my last message.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
An: Christian Marx
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Will fling, is flinging and has flung.

Scott


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Oct 24 08:53:45 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:53:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com><5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC><A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com><0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com><001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com><8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com><CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
Message-ID: <F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>

This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding! 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
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received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
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is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:32 AM
To: 'Barr, Scott'; 'Triumph 'Friends ofTriumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
hold back my last message.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
An: Christian Marx
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Will fling, is flinging and has flung.

Scott
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 09:36:00 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:36:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>

 Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.


NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From fubog1 at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 09:36:54 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:36:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion explanation
Message-ID: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

 A statement was made yesterday re an analogy to an F-16 launched off of a
carrier...
I made the perhaps smart-ass comment that the F-16 wasn't carrierbased,
tongue-in-cheek, and my reply bounced back due to too much text.I sent another
shortened reply.
This was apparently interpreted by the OP to having been held by moderator
forbeing offensive in some way. I made it clear in an email to the OP thatit
was in no way intended to be offensive; this was a simplemisunderstanding.
Sorry for the confusion...
Glen

This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!







Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and

hold back my last message.


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Oct 24 10:05:22 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (Christian Marx)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:05:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion explanation
In-Reply-To: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPrGtEMSei=jd92OCL8KN=DDQdK6qnStW0Jz-+kAb6GQVa3o4w@mail.gmail.com>

Was my fault. Did write one word wrong. Instead of our I wrote "your".
So everything is okay with me. :-)

Cheers
Chris
Am 24.10.2012 17:36 schrieb "fubog1" <fubog1 at aol.com>:

>   A statement was made yesterday re an analogy to an F-16 launched off of
> a carrier...
> I made the perhaps smart-ass comment that the F-16 wasn't carrier based,
> tongue-in-cheek, and my reply bounced back due to too much text. I sent
> another shortened reply.
> This was apparently interpreted by the OP to having been held by moderator
> for being offensive in some way. I made it clear in an email to the OP that
> it was in no way intended to be offensive; this was a simple
> misunderstanding.
> Sorry for the confusion...
> Glen
>
> This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
>
>
> hold back my last message.


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed Oct 24 10:12:48 2012
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:12:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFEA44@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

NAME:  Scott Barr
CAR:	Spitfire
CAR #49
OSTHOFF?  Possibly, but I am usually a camper


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE

 Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host
hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP
at ROAD AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This
information will be used by several people or groups.


NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 24 10:30:24 2012
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1351096224.91415.YahooMailNeo@web140603.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

NAME: Ernie Husmann
CAR: Spitfire; 1975 GP Champion
Car #: 4 
Osthoff:
Possible but doubtful
Attend Only: If the car isn't ready
________________________________
 From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To:
fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
Subject: [Fot]
2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
 
Need information for the
usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of
rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help
facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend
and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide
information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.
NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 24 10:57:13 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:57:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYo9OVJGNWGaZX7t-fnrrw4F-79FiVQ=b0QNzHEKopqWUQ@mail.gmail.com>

Name: Jason Ostrowski
Car: 1969 GT6+
Car #: 27
Osthoff: No

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

>  Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
> SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
> ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
> be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__________________
> CAR____________________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?________________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed Oct 24 11:01:58 2012
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:01:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FW:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFEA48@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

NAME Russ and Terry Westfall_________________
CAR__TR4A__________________
CAR #__not assigned yet_________________
OSTHOFF? _yes_______________
ATTEND ONLY_______________



From: Russell Westfall [mailto:rwestfall at ymail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 11:40 AM
To: Barr, Scott
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE





--- On Wed, 10/24/12, Barr, Scott <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:


From: Barr, Scott <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
To: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2012, 4:12 PM

NAME:  Scott Barr
CAR:    Spitfire
CAR #49
OSTHOFF?  Possibly, but I am usually a camper


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.ne
t>  [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.ne
t> ] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE

Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host
hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP
at ROAD AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This
information will be used by several people or groups.


NAME_Russ and Terry Westfall_________________
CAR__TR4A__________________
CAR #__not assigned yet_________________
OSTHOFF?_yes_______________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=n197tr4 at cs.com>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net>

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>

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From John.Reed at wilson.com  Wed Oct 24 11:36:40 2012
From: John.Reed at wilson.com (Reed, John)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:36:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CCAD9158.B17E%John.Reed@wilson.com>

On 10/24/12 10:36 AM, "Joe N197TR4" <N197TR4 at cs.com> wrote:

Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.


NAME_ John Reed_________________
CAR  1969 GT6+ Hopefully____________________
CAR #  69___________________
OSTHOFF? Camping________________
ATTEND ONLY I will be there car or no car_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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forbidden.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image.png]


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 11:44:50 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:44:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDsNzatdezJZvieC3ts_Fex4sVkUNjShT_bH2KDbMPOgA@mail.gmail.com>

Coming this year for sure:

Chuck Arnold
TR6
74
Camping

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 8:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

>  Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
> SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
> ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
> be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__________________
> CAR____________________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?________________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 11:45:11 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 13:45:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <7d3a0.2ccd9b8.3db98327@aol.com>

Return-path: <BillDentin at aol.com>
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Full-name: BillDentin
Message-ID: <1e788.2bede059.3db96ac2 at aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:01:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
To: n197tr4 at cs.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
X-Mailer: 7.0 for Windows sub 10721
X-AOL-IP: 63.3.1.2
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X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain

In a message dated 10/24/2012 10:47:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:


> NAME__Bill Dentinger________________
> CAR____1956 Triumph TR3________________
> CAR #___29________________
> OSTHOFF?______NO Thank You_________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________


From jsnook at wcnet.org  Wed Oct 24 12:03:40 2012
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup
Message-ID: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>

NAME:  Jeff Snook
CAR:  1961 Triumph TR3A
CAR #:  41
OSTHOFF?:  Possibly


Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
419-344-0319 (Mobile)


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 12:51:32 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:51:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] NEWS YOU CAN USE: OSTHOFF NEGOTIATED RATES AND WEBSITE
 KASTNER CUP 2013
Message-ID: <8CF802FB7DCE35C-AA8-2A968@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>

 Note:  Contract has not been signed yet. Do not make reservations
yet.....When contract is signed, make reservations as soon as possible under
'FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH' to ensure desired rooms and best rates.

WEBSITE:  To review floor plans and amenities:    WWW.OSTHOFF.COM

FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH      RATES

'GUEST ROOMS'                   $139.00

'ONE BEDROOM SUITE'       $159.00

'TWO BEDROOM SUITE'      $189.00

'THREE BEDROOM SUITE'  $239.00

HINTS:  LIVING ROOM HAS HIDE-A-BED AND IF YOU HAVE ANY FRIENDS YOU CAN SPLIT
THE COSTS.....MANY OF US ARE.

I will likely sign contract in a week or so.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 24 14:20:13 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:20:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup
In-Reply-To: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>
References: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>
Message-ID: <50884D7D.1050507@bradakis.com>

I'll be there, no car, Osthoff most likely.

mjb.


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Oct 24 17:52:15 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:52:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0FB6C59C-EF86-4765-B812-FEDA1EC7665D@consolidated.net>

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 24, 2012, at 10:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__Ken Gano_________
> CAR_____not a race car_______________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?_____yes___________
> ATTEND ONLY__yes_____________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphs at consolidated.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 24 18:11:59 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:11:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] List problems?
Message-ID: <508883CF.8010606@bradakis.com>

While whacking on the archive issue and stuff I got to thinking.  Are there
any outstanding issues folks are having with this list, unanswered 
nominations
or such?  I tend to get a LOT of team.net mail and sometimes it does 
slip through
the cracks.

mjb.


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 24 20:17:56 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 22:17:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W14FDEE2B978DD7F36A2496BA7F0@phx.gbl>

 NAME___Marty Sukey_______________
 CAR_________Spitfire___________
 CAR #_________8__________
 OSTHOFF?______YES__________


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 24 21:15:23 2012
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:15:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] H6 Bell crank
Message-ID: <1351134923.93265.YahooMailNeo@web160901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Does some one have spare H6 Bell crank - Moss # 371-420.  
 
Thanks - Mike
Mehl


From igofaster at att.net  Wed Oct 24 21:53:21 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:53:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fw:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1351137201.71087.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Joe.....





Bobby Whitehead
Triumph GT6
#39
maybe 2 for a Hotel if my wife comes, or camp Triumphette Travel Trailer 
Lodge... 

Try to race, if that doesn't work, Henry will block me in and I'm attending....

starting on a new lump this winter.... soooooo.... you know....

Bobby Whitehead




________________________________


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Thu Oct 25 08:07:06 2012
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (MARKANDGLENDA PENDERGRASS)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:07:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>

Now you know how the rest of us feel when we hire attorneys..........

MP

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 7:53 AM, john hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!
>
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of MadMarx
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:32 AM
> To: 'Barr, Scott'; 'Triumph 'Friends ofTriumph''
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
> hold back my last message.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
> An: Christian Marx
> Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Will fling, is flinging and has flung.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net


From list at mackenzie.aero  Thu Oct 25 09:11:22 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 10:11:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension
Message-ID: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>

Does anybody have a set of re-buildable GT6 MK3 rotoflex rear suspension
parts they don't need anymore?
I am in the process of restoring a car for my wife and the lower control
arms and uprights  I  removed are badly corroded.

Thanks!

Robert MacKenzie
Austin Texas
'79 1500 (street)
'71 GT6 MKIII (project)
'62 Spitfire 4 (race)


From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Oct 25 10:53:25 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 09:53:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>

I am disposing of two TR6 transmissions and thought I would offer them to
FOT before posting on eBay [no big hurry to sell].

One is a newly rebuilt close ratio 4 speed.  Has the Dolomite Sprint input
and higher second gear.  New syncros, bearings and 3rd gear. Great racing
four speed.  This has the 1" by 23 spline input shaft, so a different froms
tock clutch plate is needed.  I have a 7.25 Quartermaster dual plate clutch
and two sets of clutch disks [one used a season, one brand new] that I am
willing to include with this transmission.  I would like to get $1100 for
it [the gearsets alone cost $600].  Certainly open to offers.

The second is a 4 speed with A-type overdrive.  This came with my race car
[which was a roller].   I used it twice [but never with the OD as I did not
setup wiring for it].  Bob Cramer had rebuilt this tranny for Richard
Junkermeier [of Wyotech-- the one who built the Ambro for Joe].  I replaced
the solenoid and the plate it attaches to with expectations of using the OD
-- but go the close ratio box instead.  Would like $900 for this one.

I am open to any comments on price or offers to buy.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 11:09:33 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:09:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Tornado Talisman & Lotus Elan reunited...
Message-ID: <13414.6938b3e4.3dbacc4d@aol.com>

Amici...

While I have not seen it yet, there is an extensive article in the November 
issue of MONTHLY CLASSIC (UK) about the Tornado Talisman and the Lotus 
Elan.  Back in the early 1960s they were both being 'birthed' at the same time 
when Tornado Cars and Lotus were competitors.  It is my understanding that at 
one time Tornado Cars was bigger than Lotus and the Tornado Cars models all 
used many Triumph parts.  Below is a copy of a letter to the MONTHLY 
CLASSIC editor from Bill Woodhouse (one of the Tornado Cars founders) about the 
article, and I thought it might be of interest to some FOT folk.

> On 17 Oct 2012, at 11:10 am, Bill & Ann Woodhouse wrote:
> 
> >> Needless to say I read your excellent November issue with more than 
>> usual interest and thank you for the eight pages of superb photographs and 
>> details.
>> 
>> One point though mystifies me;  on page 3, under the Tornado Talisman - 
>> Essential Checks is stated:-
>> "Rear hubs are prone to movement causing bearing wear."  The two Triumph 
>> hubs, as you explain are "Arc welded" back to back and movement here is 
>> impossible.  The two big ball bearings that Tornado uses, as opposed to the 
>> single one Triumph uses, are a push fit into machined recesses, each end 
>> of the trunnion, five inches apart and retained by a plate incorporating a 
>> grease seal.  There is no possibility of movement here.
>> 
>> I have to wonder whether whoever made this remark is confusing the 
>> necessity to check the torque of the wheel hub retaining nut on a new assembly 
>> after 500 miles.  The morse taper fit wheel hub and drive shaft, after 
>> bedding in, needs nipping up to 45 lbs/feet torque.   I am not alone in 
>> overlooking this after my rebuild, with disastrous results.  I was severely 
>> reprimanded by my old Engineering Foreman, Eric Martin, for not reading the 
>> owner's manual I had written in 1961, deservedly so.  Other owners have made 
>> this oversight.  The warning presumably also applies to all Heralds, 
>> Vitesse and Spitfires!
>> 
>> 
>> Yours,
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Woodhouse


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 11:20:52 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:20:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Tornado Talisman & Spitfire reprise...
Message-ID: <13aef.56948b4.3dbacef4@aol.com>

Amici...

Being an early TR3 racer, much of this is GREEK to me, but here is some
more concerning that CLASSIC MONTHLY article and Tornado Cars ties to TRIUMPH,
the editor, Gary Stretton, got back to Tornado Cars founder, Bill Woodhouse,
and his response included:

<<< Interesting point you make re the rear hubs. I'll see if we can clarify
the statement. I'm a Spitfire owner myself but I'm not familiar with the
Tornado setup. Sounds as if the setups have been confused. >>>

to which Bill Woodhouse then responded:

<<< Dear Gary,

No apologies needed.

As a Spitfire owner you will be familiar with the outer trunnion on your
drive shaft.  As I couldn't bring myself to accept the geometry of a swing
axle with a high roll centre I had Hardy Spicer make articulated drive shafts.
To support the final short end of the drive shaft I simply welded the
Triumph trunnions back to back, dispensed with the roller bearing but used the
two big outer ball bearings, packing the space between with grease.  The two
vertical swinging arms that attached the Triumph trunnion to the transverse
leaf spring I welded to the now back to back trunnions but downwards to
locate my lower transverse swinging arms, thus utilising all Standard Triumph
parts.

If you have a copy of Martyn Morgan Jones' excellent book "Winds of Change"
you will see reproduced a surprisingly good cut-away drawing by "Sports Car
Graphic" in the States (April 1962) which shows very clearly the
fabrication I am talking about.

I could do a sketch for you if needed.

Hope this will help with any future comments.

You most certainly did a wonderful head-to-head comparison.  What surprised
me is that an Elan S1 is valued at #30.000 to #40,000 in good condition.  I
have asked my insurers to reassess the agreed valuation of my Talisman!

All the very best,

Bill Woodhouse


From igofaster at att.net  Wed Oct 24 21:42:05 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:42:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351136525.61646.YahooMailRC@web182204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

correct me if I'm wrong...but AN F16 is an Air Force weapon of mass destruction, 
not Navy...

now fling an F18 and you're talking Hornets!

Bobby




________________________________
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, October 23, 2012 2:07:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

So let me test the word.
A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air
it had been flung?
Am 23.10.2012 01:43 schrieb "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>:

> a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.
>
> afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-
>
> two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fittedin 
>the future.
>
> All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the
> FOT in the midwest.
>
> Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.
>
>
>  Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
>  "flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
> what it means.
> Ah, I see. Catapult language.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net 
><fot-bounces at autox.team.net?>] Im
> Auftrag von Bill Babcock
> Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
> An: Scott Janzen
> Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.
>
> We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
> the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
> dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
> On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
> He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
> diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
> assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
> improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
> does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
> replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
> says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
> without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
> (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
> >
> > Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> > I
> have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
> stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
> the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
> indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
> for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
> mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
> have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
> electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
> He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
> >
> > So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> > for now,
> at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
> on hand.
> >
> > Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net


From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 25 15:57:36 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 14:57:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>
References: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>
Message-ID: <1351202256.99438.YahooMailRC@web182205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Robert,,,,  I have some for you but it's going to cost you a 5th of Patron and a 
case of Original Coors.... now...  that's a whole new can of worms about beer 
and tequila I'm sure...
contact me off list...
Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: Robert MacKenzie <list at mackenzie.aero>
To: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, October 25, 2012 10:20:33 AM
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension

Does anybody have a set of re-buildable GT6 MK3 rotoflex rear suspension
parts they don't need anymore?
I am in the process of restoring a car for my wife and the lower control
arms and uprights  I  removed are badly corroded.

Thanks!

Robert MacKenzie
Austin Texas
'79 1500 (street)
'71 GT6 MKIII (project)
'62 Spitfire 4 (race)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 25 16:00:17 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 15:00:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351202417.17228.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

the first one would be a great upgrade for the GT6 by the way for a GT6 guy or 
gal that wants a better way to go... I've got a very similar one waiting if I 
ever try to use it... the close ratio gears would be the bomb...

Bobby




________________________________
From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan at gmail.com>
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, October 25, 2012 11:53:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay

I am disposing of two TR6 transmissions and thought I would offer them to
FOT before posting on eBay [no big hurry to sell].

One is a newly rebuilt close ratio 4 speed.  Has the Dolomite Sprint input
and higher second gear.  New syncros, bearings and 3rd gear. Great racing
four speed.  This has the 1" by 23 spline input shaft, so a different froms
tock clutch plate is needed.  I have a 7.25 Quartermaster dual plate clutch
and two sets of clutch disks [one used a season, one brand new] that I am
willing to include with this transmission.  I would like to get $1100 for
it [the gearsets alone cost $600].  Certainly open to offers.

The second is a 4 speed with A-type overdrive.  This came with my race car
[which was a roller].   I used it twice [but never with the OD as I did not
setup wiring for it].  Bob Cramer had rebuilt this tranny for Richard
Junkermeier [of Wyotech-- the one who built the Ambro for Joe].  I replaced
the solenoid and the plate it attaches to with expectations of using the OD
-- but go the close ratio box instead.  Would like $900 for this one.

I am open to any comments on price or offers to buy.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley
_______________________________________________


From trdoctor at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 16:14:28 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 17:14:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
Message-ID: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>

Good day to all,
I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to the
floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
(without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without any
problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines out
with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got the
car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long story
short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion of
the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.  Anyone
else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line especially
since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look at
the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so I
put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
TIA,


From BillDentin at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 12:39:37 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 14:39:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
Message-ID: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>

Amici...

I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and it 
includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph 
Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each 
Spitfire model.

A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in 
particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled look 
on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the engine 
compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But 
then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.

Bill (Damdinger)


From jason at multivintage.com  Sun Oct 28 12:55:38 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 18:55:38 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
References: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.189.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Its just the opposite when you are in your TR3.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 14:39:37 
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...

Amici...

I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and it 
includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph 
Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each 
Spitfire model.

A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in 
particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled look 
on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the engine 
compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But 
then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.

Bill (Damdinger)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 14:13:09 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:13:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcHJOCpFK0FR5vFX4VKTFtCfxjVb_2fSb+6TFqLy8SK5Dw@mail.gmail.com>
	<9E5AFC6C-C7CE-43B8-B884-11BF0C4ED962@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <183197DA-F760-42E4-A231-6BE4FA30EF72@aol.com>

Problem solved.  It was the master cylinder.  Pedal holds firm at a stop.  I
might need to re-bleed later since I'm using silicone fluif but it is
roadworthy once again.
On Oct 28, 2012, at 1:28 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:

> It may not be the one-way booster valve but something inside the booster,
such as a seal or O-ring.
>
> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 8:06 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
> No.  That has never been my experience.  The idle does not change with the
foot on or off the pedal.
> Sam
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 5:38 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Did you check the brake vacuum boster for air leaks in that unit.?  That
would cause the pedal to drop.
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>> Good day to all,
>> I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
>> would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to
the
>> floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
>> replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
>> (without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
>> cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without
any
>> problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines
out
>> with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got
the
>> car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long
story
>> short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion
of
>> the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.
Anyone
>> else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line
especially
>> since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look
at
>> the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so
I
>> put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
>> TIA,
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com


From stutzmans at comcast.net  Sun Oct 28 15:39:47 2012
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 17:39:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
References: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1DD217D29F44B769B1A48D87B0A8C91@ComputerPC>

The Summer 2012 edition of the Toronto Triumph Club's RAGTOP also has a good 
50 years of Spitfire article.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 2:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...


> Amici...
>
> I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and 
> it
> includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph
> Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each
> Spitfire model.
>
> A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in
> particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled 
> look
> on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the 
> engine
> compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But
> then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 12:52:34 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:52:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and floors
Message-ID: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>

I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting the
car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills together
on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on the
new frame.

Here is the link.  See page 75/76

http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
r4&f=false

Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?

Thx

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)


From mmoore at wave1.net  Mon Oct 29 13:55:09 2012
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:55:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009401cdb60f$4d3a6650$e7af32f0$@net>

I did same to my street car and kept car together so I could keep everything
aligned easier. Fastened braces across top of door openings to keep proper
shape and then replaced one side at a time.

Thanks
Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
Fax:        814-864-7383


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 2:53 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and floors

I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back
together on the new frame.

Here is the link.  See page 75/76

http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
c
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5S
ement+rotted+k&hl=
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
t
r4&f=false

Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?

Thx

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore at wave1.net


From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon Oct 29 14:41:46 2012
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:41:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>

Tyler
I have done many of these.
I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross 
brace.
I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top 
deck including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front 
corner.
I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
Glenn

On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting the
> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills together
> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on the
> new frame.
>
> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>
> http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
> ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
> en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
> r4&f=false
>
> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>
> Thx
>
> Ty
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 15:06:02 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:06:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
Message-ID: <67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>

Thanks Glenn!

Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as well
as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place that?
Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.

I would enjoy seeing your pics!

Thx

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 16:34:57 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:34:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
Message-ID: <6EE8C791-AF9B-40BE-B621-5A331C318744@yahoo.com>

Folks.

Glenn was a great help and documented the process for me with some pics and
pointers. I also received many comments from others directly.  Many thanks to
everyone.  As always, this list is so valuable.

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you we
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Oct 29 17:02:18 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:02:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] PCV valves
In-Reply-To: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351551738.36217.YahooMailRC@web184802.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Generally where are folks using PCV valves?  Both of my Triumphs are
carburated 
TR6s.  Where is it better to have a PCV valve that a straight hose
to do with 
motor breathing?  Thanks, Jim


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Oct 29 17:04:33 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:04:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It was 
pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the m/c 
and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm wondering if 
I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the 
rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on this. 
Jim 


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Oct 29 17:33:35 2012
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 19:33:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9815E22E-0CF7-4E38-B0A7-7BD26A8814BC@seiri.com>

My solution was a new reservoir after trying to clean things up and replacing
the seals four or five times.

On Oct 29, 2012, at 19:04, sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net> wrote:

> On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It
was
> pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the
m/c
> and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm
wondering if
> I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the
> rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on
this.
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Oct 29 20:02:44 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:02:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
	<67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>

Ty,
	I have some of the lifting plates as shown in the Triumph Workshop
Manual for lifting the body off the frame that I cut out of 14 Ga. plate I
think and then drilled and bent to do the job.  I think I have an extra set
or I can send mine and you can return when done.  If you think they would be
of help, let me know.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:06 PM
To: Glenn Franco
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
floors

Thanks Glenn!

Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as
well
as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place that?
Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.

I would enjoy seeing your pics!

Thx

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about
splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together
on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
c
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl
=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 21:04:36 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:04:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
	<67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
	<000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>
Message-ID: <5BBA370E-A2D0-4FFA-891A-6698301802E6@yahoo.com>

Jim Lent me some lifting plates as well so I think I am good.  Thank you for
the offer.

Ty

Tyler Thompson l National Account Executive - Public Safety Sector
esri | One International Court | Broomfield, CO 80021
Phone: 303.449-7779 ext. 8260, cell: 719.510-1649 |
E-mail: tyler_thompson at esri.com


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 8:02 PM, "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com> wrote:

> Ty,
>    I have some of the lifting plates as shown in the Triumph Workshop
> Manual for lifting the body off the frame that I cut out of 14 Ga. plate I
> think and then drilled and bent to do the job.  I think I have an extra set
> or I can send mine and you can return when done.  If you think they would
be
> of help, let me know.
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:06 PM
> To: Glenn Franco
> Cc: Friends of triumph
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
> floors
>
> Thanks Glenn!
>
> Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as
> well
> as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place
that?
> Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.
>
> I would enjoy seeing your pics!
>
> Thx
>
> Ty
>
> Sent from my iPad
> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>
> On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Tyler
>> I have done many of these.
>> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
>> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
> brace.
>> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
>> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
>> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
> including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
>> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
>> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
>> Glenn
>>
>> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about
> splitting
> the
>>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
> together
>>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together
> on
> the
>>> new frame.
>>>
>>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
> c
>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl
> =
>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
> t
>>> r4&f=false
>>>
>>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>>
>>> Thx
>>>
>>> Ty
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From gaf3 at charter.net  Tue Oct 30 01:45:15 2012
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 03:45:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <508F858B.6080200@charter.net>

Jim
I have had many of these leak.
Replacements reservoirs work but some are just as bad as the one that leaks.
I have had new Master Cylinders leak in that location as well.
It's a poor design.
I have had some success using a slightly larger section O-ring in place 
of the square cut rubber seals.
You might want to try that before you buy a reservoir.
Glenn
On 10/29/2012 7:04 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It was
> pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the m/c
> and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm wondering if
> I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the
> rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on this.
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Wed Oct 31 20:54:16 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 19:54:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] John Fitch
Message-ID: <1351738456.92490.YahooMailClassic@web181401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The FOT has been very quiet with many of its members at the VTR Nationals in Galveston Texas. For those who may not have heard, John Fitch passed away this morning. 
With his passing goes a great fighter pilot, sports car driver, Indy car driver, and a member of the Cunningham team at LeMans with Phil Walters during the big crash in '55.
RIP
-Ed-


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 31 21:36:57 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 03:36:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Friendly Hauntings From: FGR.
Message-ID: <mailman.190.1638251581.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

An eerie web forms about now on our cars here in the Midwest.
Drained of their fluid and void of their blood.
Like Vampires, tonight; these Triumphs hunger for lube. A long sleep (perhaps restless) awaits the cold steel and silent horse power of my poor unheated-garage kept mechanical demon. Killing it... on Halloween night, I drain the fluid from my beloved GT6. 
Surely this cold evening, all hallow's eve, might it find a source of life, to get through the long cold wInter?
Happy Halloween.
FRIENDLY GHOST RACING
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


From vintageautoservice at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  1 10:59:48 2012
From: vintageautoservice at yahoo.com (Guy Morter)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 09:59:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3 frames
Message-ID: <1349110788.14055.YahooMailClassic@web162204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hello fot,
Anyone know if the TR3 frames are all the same from year to year?
Thanks
Guy Morter
Vintage Auto Service
262 573 4511

Flatheads Forever!


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Oct  2 14:59:39 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2012 16:59:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
Message-ID: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>

the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap when the car is running.
It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.

Ideas on where to start?


From kaskas at cox.net  Tue Oct  2 15:57:34 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 21:57:34 +0000
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>

Check to see if the cross over pipe is plugged as that will make the inlets
pulse. There is no power gain having hte cross over plugged.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 16:59:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
>
> the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap
when the car is running.
> It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.
>
> Ideas on where to start?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 16:31:13 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 18:31:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <18258D64-9044-4400-ADF9-00E6194165C6@aol.com>

A friends bugeye had the same problem.  Solution was to raise the idle to
about 1700.  After all it was a race engine.

Chris

On Oct 2, 2012, at 4:59 PM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic cap
when the car is running.
> It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.
>
> Ideas on where to start?
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Oct  2 18:25:47 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 20:25:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
Message-ID: <5468320c-3a59-449a-8640-9ce323d2aee3@blur>

Scott, what model SU's - H6 or HS6? Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 2, 2012 20:59:39 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question

the pistons in the SUs on my recently acquired E production TR4 clatter  
wildly at idle and up to 2500 rpm, at least.  Springs are installed, and the  
damper oil just gets quickly pumped right out the vent hole in the plastic  
cap when the car is running.
It certainly smooths out at high speed, but the condition also makes it  
difficult to start - I need to stick a finger in each one to hold the damper  
up slightly, then get it running over idle speed.

Ideas on where to start?
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Oct  3 07:58:53 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 09:58:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
Message-ID: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Wed Oct  3 08:40:00 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 10:40:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 cam
Message-ID: <CALsVEtAyCc2Q0-qx4PoDz5tC=bSimpAjOAVDV17UthP0s03Mtg@mail.gmail.com>

I found a new (or freshly reground) cam in my spares bin that is marked on
the box as "TR-3 cam", and is stamped on the end with "M 13".  None of the
other cams I have are stamped except racing cams.  Does M 13 on a TR3 cam
mean anything to anyone?  Don


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Oct  3 09:09:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:09:02 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000901cda179$06fc86a0$14f593e0$@com>

Replace them with ARP bolts if possible.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von marty sukey
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 3. Oktober 2012 15:59
An: FOT
Betreff: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested
and size checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the
tightening requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod
bolts when new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure
they have not been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length
measurement.  I would just replace them all for good measure but I was
quoted a price of $56 per bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the
original bolts IF they are still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods
of determining if these rod bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts
are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 09:22:50 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 11:22:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000f01cda17a$f3d4bd20$db7e3760$@rr.com>

Marty, I was looking this up in my docs. I knew I had the info somewhere.

First off, the original length of the bolts when new isn't what they're
talking about. Those bolts are reusable AND as you found out SUPER
expensive. They are referring to the delta between the "0" torque length and
the measured length as you tighten them. There is a special tool to do this
with which I used the first few builds. What I did was document what the
torque was when I achieved that level of stretch. I have the same rods you
do. It worked out that 38 to 39 Ft lbs yielded a .007" stretch which is what
you want. The condition of this is that you use the ARP moly lube on the
threads. Do not do this with dry threads. 

Hope this helps-sorry for the delay.

Russ Moore



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 9:59 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested
and size checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the
tightening requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod
bolts when new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure
they have not been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length
measurement.  I would just replace them all for good measure but I was
quoted a price of $56 per bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the
original bolts IF they are still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods
of determining if these rod bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts
are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From sjanzen at me.com  Wed Oct  3 09:49:56 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 11:49:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <80EEC632-AE6F-450C-A20A-2F1C06C62BC1@me.com>

I over-streched a couple of these once by using ARP lube, which is much slicker than the lube Carillo recommends.  Make sure you use the right stuff - I think it's a moly Loctite product, which I found at Pep Boys, though Carrillo now sells their own brand.  My experience is that if they have been over-stretched, when you tighten them to the correct torque they will stretch more than indicated, or conversely if you tighten to the correct stretch it won't take enough torque.  They are dinky little bolts and the required torque is quite low.  So, if you tighten to 215 inch-pounds and they stretch as indicated, they should still be good.

Ridiculously expensive, too!  I wonder if you couldn't replace them with an ARP product for less?

On Oct 3, 2012, at 9:58 AM, marty sukey wrote:

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com


From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 09:50:37 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 09:50:37 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Message-ID: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>

The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
doesn't engage.

So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.

With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.

What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
(voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
at 12.75)?

I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
other?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)


From sjanzen at me.com  Wed Oct  3 10:05:54 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 12:05:54 -0400
Subject: [Fot] SU Carb question
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>
References: <82EDD5B7-5761-4CFD-B024-16C987A8BC53@me.com>
	<SNT120-W239F7085C70617C54F49F7DF860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <07073BE7-AC59-43F0-A355-2C95332E145B@me.com>

Many good responses and things to check out - will report back when a conclusion is reached.  In the meantime, putting a replacement diff in the GT6 for Watkins Glen next weekend.


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Wed Oct  3 10:39:51 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:39:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3 cam ID
Message-ID: <CALsVEtCfL0wkEx8=Fea+PhCTqCRcDqriAe8zDnWDokBcBrJvjw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to Michael Porter, I have identified the TR3 mystery cam.

It was done by American Cam Grinding in LA back in the early 80s.
 According to the guy I talked to at their shop, it was a popular hot
street grind "back in the day" and is still pretty popular now.  I happen
to have the engine for my TR3 in the shop waiting to be reassembled, so
this will probably go into that one.  When I took it out of the box it was
wrapped in a LA racing sheet from 1982, so that's how long it's been
sitting around waiting for a home.  Don


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Wed Oct  3 12:06:23 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 14:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <92364BCD-A756-4843-9564-C44643630C60@bellsouth.net>

A high impedance 3rd/4th gear selector switch?

 
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
> doesn't engage.
> 
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
> 
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
> 
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
> at 12.75)?
> 
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
> other?
> 
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> 
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tarch at bellsouth.net


From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 12:20:13 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:20:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <58EE04CF-45E1-400B-A1BE-A8FD818D8BF8@yahoo.com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<58EE04CF-45E1-400B-A1BE-A8FD818D8BF8@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <991B8580-071E-4E5B-B1DF-70E65A16380A@comcast.net>

Yes there's a relay and it clicks when the OD selector switch is  
thrown. It passes all the voltage tests for the brown, the white, the  
yellow purple wires. I get voltage through it to the yellow purple  
wire right to the solenoid. I suspected it too since it was the last  
thing I did to the OD circuit but that was over a year ago and it  
worked up until now.


Bud



Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 12:00 PM, Yahoo wrote:

> Isn't there a relay between the column and the solenoid?
>
> Ty
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> '63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
> '62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
> ++++
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 9:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 12:49:15 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>

Sounds like a grounding problem.  Did you measure the voltage at the
solenoid between the bullet connector and the ground of the battery?  I
would also try running a ground wire direct from the battery to the "case"
or ground of the solenoid and trying that.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:51 AM
To: FOT List
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem

The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
doesn't engage.

So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.

With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.

What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
(voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
at 12.75)?

I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
other?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 12:49:15 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:49:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1039BBED9A87CFA4A7A538ABA850@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001cda197$c9cd6ff0$5d684fd0$@com>

I recently installed Carrillo rods in the TR4 engine.  The bolts are 3/8
inch SPS CARR S6's and are marked "S6-S-A13".
The free length was 1.850 and a stretch of 0.007 inch required 50 FT-LB of
torque.  I used the Loctite anti-Seize compound supplied by Carrillo.  I
would think Carrillo could give you the length of the new S4 (1/4 inch)
bolt. If your bolts are within a couple of thousandths of that dimension you
would be okay.  If they are beyond the 0.007 stretch then they have been
over torqued beyond their yield point and would have to be replaced.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 8:59 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Carrillo Rod Bolts

Rod bolt question for you experts.  I latched onto a used set of Carrillo
rods
for my next spitfire engine.  I figured I would get them crack tested and
size
checked and be on my way. That was until I checked on the tightening
requirements.  According to Carrillo you need to measure the rod bolts when
new and then re-measure them after each disassembly to make sure they have
not
been overstretched.  I am lacking that original length measurement.  I would
just replace them all for good measure but I was quoted a price of $56 per
bolt.  That being said I would prefer to use the original bolts IF they are
still good.  Anybody have any alternative methods of determining if these
rod
bolts have not been over stretched?  The bolts are SPS CARR S4's

Thanks,
Marty
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 12:56:13 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:56:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<000101cda197$c9ff7c70$5dfe7550$@com>
Message-ID: <96F0F1D3-E0BC-4E61-A245-EDDD39282E9F@comcast.net>

Yes I tested it and got continuity from the solenoid body to the  
transmission and to the body. As far as I can tell the solenoid  
grounds itself with the bolts used to attach it to it's bracket on the  
OD. I'll try to ground it at known working ground locations like the  
battery itself.

Thanks
Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 12:49 PM, Tim Murphy wrote:

> Sounds like a grounding problem.  Did you measure the voltage at the
> solenoid between the bullet connector and the ground of the  
> battery?  I
> would also try running a ground wire direct from the battery to the  
> "case"
> or ground of the solenoid and trying that.
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:51 AM
> To: FOT List
> Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
>
> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
> doesn't engage.
>
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Oct  3 13:01:15 2012
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes - Seiri)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 15:01:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>

It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would get 12v
but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the voltage with the
solenoid on and off.

On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
> doesn't engage.
>
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 13:16:55 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap  
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the  
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay  
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the  
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to  
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing  
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would  
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the  
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> bownes at web9.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Oct  3 16:13:36 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:13:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>
References: <331AEE4B-9553-4E86-95BD-F7F8471FFC19@comcast.net>
	<0029FB40-5E63-44AF-A2B0-26C559C24D47@seiri.com>
	<AD1E5ED2-6C00-493E-8F31-BA8BA2D2FCA2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001cda1b4$560c8a20$02259e60$@com>

I'm assuming that when you tested the solenoid on a separate battery you
were putting the 12 volts to the bullet connector and the ground or negative
battery terminal to the case of the solenoid.  That being the case, the
bullet connector to the soldered connection on the solenoid appears to be
good.

Using alligator clips, connect the positive or red lead of the voltmeter to
the bullet connector on the solenoid wire and the negative or black lead of
the voltmeter to the negative terminal of the battery (Ground).   Now flip
the OD switch to "ON".  If there is a low voltage at the solenoid it is due
to high resistance, such as bad contacts in the relay, between the solenoid
and the positive terminal of the battery.  The voltage is being dropped
across the high resistance with very little current and you are getting low
voltage at the solenoid.

If when you flip the OD switch to "ON" and get 12 volts at the solenoid but
it does not "pick up" or energize, you have an open ground circuit between
the solenoid and the negative battery terminal and no current flowing the
solenoid.

Seeing as how you have tried 2 different solenoids it would seem unlikely to
have 2 with intermittent ground contact inside the solenoid itself.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 2:17 PM
To: Bob Bownes - Seiri
Cc: FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap  
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the  
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay  
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the  
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to  
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing  
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would  
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the  
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
>> bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 21:36:34 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 21:36:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
Message-ID: <mailman.172.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 06:52:11 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 06:52:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
In-Reply-To: <000001cda211$124bbe70$36e33b50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.173.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Thanks Russ but I'll do my own flow bench work. If we didn't reinvent the
wheel we would all still be running around with wooden spokes.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: Spitfire Racing [mailto:spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2012 3:17 AM
To: 'Jim Gray'
Subject: RE: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Jim,
I believe there were a few different castings and among them was a variation
in thicknesses. I ran into this on Spitfire heads also. I had done what you
are suggesting and had what I thought was accurate information on how I
could mill and port the head. I ruined a head right off the bat due to a
casting variation. I found there wasn't a lot of consistency through
production runs.
You might want to check with Tony Drews. I believe he and Jack had done all
this and come up with the hot ticket. No point trying to reinvent the wheel
if it's already done.

Russ Moore
Spitfire #49

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 11:37 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com


From tr6racer21 at earthlink.net  Thu Oct  4 09:13:11 2012
From: tr6racer21 at earthlink.net (CHIP COLLINGWOOD)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 16:13:11 +0100 (GMT+01:00)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <16923803.1349363591018.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXOuT7qr: Permission denied


From rikrock at live.com  Thu Oct  4 14:56:57 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 16:56:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
Message-ID: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>

Amici,

Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is to
put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?

Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.

Thanks!

Rich Rock


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Oct  4 14:46:28 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 15:46:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted
In-Reply-To: <20121004044655.E0D892C0C87@autox.team.net>
References: <20121004044655.E0D892C0C87@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001b01cda271$54336170$fc9a2450$@com>

I believe we have a head that you could use.  It is cracked and has about
.200 or more milled off of it by the previous owner.  I'd have to check the
numbers on the head to make sure it is what you are looking for and could
send a photo also.  We are in Wisconsin so the shipping charge might be a
bit high.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:37 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Unusable tr4 cylinder head wanted

Greetings FoT

As the subject line suggests I'm looking for an unserviceable hi port tr4
head.  Were going to be doing 

some flow bench work in the coming months and would like to cut some cross
sections of the ports

for development purposes. Of coarse we will share the data we gather from
the flowbench.

Thanks for any leads,

jim g.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu Oct  4 16:46:51 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>

We use 2&3

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> Amici,
>
> Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
to
> put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
>
> Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Rich Rock
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Oct  4 21:15:59 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 22:15:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.174.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I use 1 and 4 but don't have a solid reason why that would be better 
or worse than 2 & 3.  4's the one that usually has problems if one of 
the cylinders is going to have a problem, I suppose.

Tony

At 05:46 PM 10/4/2012, John Hasty wrote:
>We use 2&3
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
>to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Oct  4 21:35:12 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 03:35:12 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>,
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Thu Oct  4 23:02:11 2012
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 22:02:11 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
References: <COL401-EAS4004739A7B588A98817347C6840@phx.gbl>
	<F0727827-445B-4636-B571-215110D9FE4F@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <506E69D3.8050206@comcast.net>

I put them in 1 and 4 on the Spit. Worked fine on the chassis dyno where 
they have fans blowing all over the place to keep stuff cool.  On the 
track, the 1 reads 150-200 degrees colder than 4 because of the airflow 
through the radiator and under the hood, etc making the results useless 
for making adjustments.  I'd suggest 2 & 3, but haven't tried it. I took 
off the # 1 probe and am adding an o2 sensor instead. Haven't got that 
done yet either.

On 10/4/2012 3:46 PM, John Hasty wrote:
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
>> Amici,
>>
>> Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
>> put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
>> cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
>>
>> Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Rich Rock
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct  5 08:15:54 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Kas,

Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because

with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.

I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row

that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed

water jacket.

If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?

Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow

this winter.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3. B Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
B > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4. B The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four. B Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders? B Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system B is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Oct  5 09:21:03 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 15:21:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
In-Reply-To: <1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <SNT120-W5634968AE7769598424E0FDF8B0@phx.gbl>,
	<1753957075.700271.1349446554002.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W1390EC9EBD0FDD2D235911DF8B0@phx.gbl>

After all my inspections and deliberating and worrying and looking I never
found a reason,  but if I had a problem it would genrally be number three.

Never be beaten by equipment
 Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: kaskas at cox.net
CC: fot at autox.team.net; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

Kas,
Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because
with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.
I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row
that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed
water jacket.
If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?
Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow
this winter.
jim g





From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rikrock at live.com  Fri Oct  5 13:43:51 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 15:43:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
Message-ID: <COL401-EAS204271B83F35CFDB97A1D68C68B0@phx.gbl>

Thanks everyone for all the info!

Who's going to the VRG event at Watkins Glen next weekend?

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: Kas Kastner
Sent: 10/5/2012 11:21 AM
To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
Cc: fot; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?


After all my inspections and deliberating and worrying and looking I never
found a reason,  but if I had a problem it would genrally be number three.

Never be beaten by equipment
 Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 14:15:54 +0000
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: kaskas at cox.net
CC: fot at autox.team.net; jhhasty at gdhs.com; rikrock at live.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

Kas,
Why is # 3 a problem. This past weekend I blew a head gasket at # 3. I know
because
with all the plugs out and spinning it with the starter it blows water out of
# 3.
I suspect the damage was done earlier in the season. We had three races in a
row
that ambient temps were over 100. I either warped the head or have a partially
collapsed
water jacket.
If # 3 is subject to more heat then can it be helped or fixed all together?
Last month there was a thread on cleaning up water passages which I plan to
follow
this winter.
jim g





From: "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com, rikrock at live.com
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 4, 2012 9:35:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?

were it me I'd use numbers 1 and 3.  Three is the problem area.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:46:51 -0400
> To: rikrock at live.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 EGT ?
>
> We use 2&3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 4, 2012, at 4:56 PM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:
>
> > Amici,
> >
> > Getting ready to install a two-probe EGT gauge in a TR4.  The easy way is
> to
> > put probes in header tubes one and four.  Any reason not to use those
> > cylinders?  Like, do two and three typically run a little leaner, maybe?
> >
> > Intake system  is H6 SU's on a long-branch (TR4A) intake.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Rich Rock
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Oct  5 20:01:22 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri,  5 Oct 2012 20:01:22 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
Message-ID: <20121006020122.EBF142E07B@bradakis.com>

The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for
many years is failing.  I'm working on replacing it with a brand
new Actiontec unit.  It is not going well.  There are some issues
with the new modem that need to be resolved.

So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few
minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply
the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware.

I appreciate your patience.

mjb.


From kenandtweety at yahoo.com  Sat Oct  6 06:33:51 2012
From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 05:33:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
In-Reply-To: <20121006020122.EBF142E07B@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1349526831.1824.YahooMailClassic@web111403.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Mark,
  If the BFH doesn't do it use my favorite, THE HOT WRENCH.
Ken Suhre

--- On Fri, 10/5/12, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:


From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
Subject: [Fot] List availability
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, October 5, 2012, 9:01 PM


The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for
many years is failing.  I'm working on replacing it with a brand
new Actiontec unit.  It is not going well.  There are some issues
with the new modem that need to be resolved.

So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few
minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply
the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware.

I appreciate your patience.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Sat Oct  6 09:26:29 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 11:26:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] List availability
Message-ID: <1b5.6aec2ab7.3da1a7a4@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/06/2012 8:41:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
kenandtweety at yahoo.com writes:


> Mark,
>   If the BFH doesn't do it use my favorite, THE HOT WRENCH.
> 

Ken...

How would using a hot wench help?

I guess it wouldn't hurt.

Bill Dentinger


From ac at camoletti.ch  Sat Oct  6 14:25:27 2012
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 22:25:27 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
In-Reply-To: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
References: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>

Dear Larry! I am back into my FOT inbox, not read since Feb this year!
10-14h per day at work, then workshop (or bed) and week ends 15-20h in the
shop, so no email time, except for orders etc.
Now I try to catch up. Hope you are well !
Regarding the subject of your email below (Oct 15 2011): I plugged in my
Innovate LM-2 with RPM and other sensors. Works perfectly fine. Had read
horrible stories about RPM, impossible to read, bouncing all he time, etc.
I simply used exclusively HQ screened cable (each wire being self screened,
then the whole cable is screened again ) to feed 12V to the LM2 and same
cable for the sensors. With soldering, not crimps or split in. And a common
negative all to bat negative via the screened cable. Such cable is
expensive, like 5 per yard, but it works just perfectly, RMP is stable and
accurate within 10rpm, sensors as well and the software LogWorks works fine
too.
Did you manage to get your Innovate stuff work with the dyno?
What about camshafts ? Id' love to get yours for the TR3-4!
Cheers!
Alex

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de Larry Young
Envoyi : samedi 15 octobre 2011 23:59
@ : FOT
Cc : Tom Young
Objet : [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?

Does anyone have experience with data acquisition using hardware from
Innovate Motorsports?

Some friends and I are bringing an old water brake dyno back to life for
some engine testing. The data acquisition stuff at Innovate Motorsports
looked good and they could furnish everything we needed.  We bought a
pressure transducer to get torque (thru force using a hydraulic cylinder), a
Hall effect sensor to get RPM, and a wide band oxygen sensor for AFR.  These
are connected through an interface "box" which goes to an RS232 port using
USB to RS232 cable.

We've had nothing but problems with their system.  We had to return the
interface box once already to be fixed (which took about 3 weeks).
After that we were able to get pressure, but it often loses its settings and
must be reset.  We get RPM a few seconds before it craps out. No AFR.  The
whole system is flaky.  I am now sending the box and sensors back a second
time.  I think the interface box still has problems. I can't decide whether
to give up on them completely. It seems like it shouldn't be this difficult.

Does anyone else have experience with this company? Do you have a different
company you would recommend? I realize this is a little different from data
acquisition for racing, since we are going direct to the computer, but
thought some of you might have a suggestion.

TIA, Larry Young
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From ac at camoletti.ch  Sat Oct  6 15:25:44 2012
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 23:25:44 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS
In-Reply-To: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004101cda409$25a873b0$70f95b10$@camoletti.ch>

Hi Joe! Is this rear mount available finally ?
Thank you for your reply!
Kind regards
AlexC

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de Joe Alexander
Envoyi : vendredi 9 mars 2012 15:25
@ : fot at autox.team.net
Objet : [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS

 FOT,

For 20 years we have dealt with various motor mounts at the transmission.
Once we replaced a motor mount at Road America with material available.....a
pine 2 x 4.  We are not sure if that wasnt the best one we had to that
point.

Sean got tired of fiddling with substandard mounts and designed his own.  He
will be installing for use at Road Atlanta.  But I think he will have 1 or 2
more with him.  It is compatible with the old mount as a direct bolt in
replacement.

If anyone is interested in seeing it, Sean will show and explain. It is
heavy duty, but provides vibration isolation.

He is doing it in SOLIDWORKS for the laser program and has constructed a
mold, so he can produce more if there is a future interest.

It is likely a lifetime rear mount for race or street.

Any one else interested? Please let me know.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From cartravel at pobox.com  Sat Oct  6 15:56:51 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 16:56:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
In-Reply-To: <000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>
References: <4E9A0216.7030801@pobox.com>
	<000001cda400$bb0c6780$31253680$@camoletti.ch>
Message-ID: <5070A923.1050401@pobox.com>

A couple of friends and I played several months with the Innovate stuff 
for an engine dyno.  We sent it back to Innovate twice.  Had lots of 
problems with RF interference from all sorts of sources. Was also 
sensitive to the USB to RS-232 conversion cable.  Could never get 
consistent readings with it.  Finally the SSI-4 box quit and we gave up 
rather than sending it back a third time.  Some of their stuff may be 
OK, but our experience trying to record direct to the computer was very bad.

I have still not found a cam grinder.  I have been busy restoring my 
TR250, which is now done and looks great.
Larry Young

On 10/6/2012 3:25 PM, Alexandre Camoletti wrote:
> Dear Larry! I am back into my FOT inbox, not read since Feb this year!
> 10-14h per day at work, then workshop (or bed) and week ends 15-20h in the
> shop, so no email time, except for orders etc.
> Now I try to catch up. Hope you are well !
> Regarding the subject of your email below (Oct 15 2011): I plugged in my
> Innovate LM-2 with RPM and other sensors. Works perfectly fine. Had read
> horrible stories about RPM, impossible to read, bouncing all he time, etc.
> I simply used exclusively HQ screened cable (each wire being self screened,
> then the whole cable is screened again ) to feed 12V to the LM2 and same
> cable for the sensors. With soldering, not crimps or split in. And a common
> negative all to bat negative via the screened cable. Such cable is
> expensive, like 5 per yard, but it works just perfectly, RMP is stable and
> accurate within 10rpm, sensors as well and the software LogWorks works fine
> too.
> Did you manage to get your Innovate stuff work with the dyno?
> What about camshafts ? Id' love to get yours for the TR3-4!
> Cheers!
> Alex
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
> part de Larry Young
> Envoyi : samedi 15 octobre 2011 23:59
> @ : FOT
> Cc : Tom Young
> Objet : [Fot] Data Acquisition - experience with Innovate Motorsports?
>
> Does anyone have experience with data acquisition using hardware from
> Innovate Motorsports?
>
> Some friends and I are bringing an old water brake dyno back to life for
> some engine testing. The data acquisition stuff at Innovate Motorsports
> looked good and they could furnish everything we needed.  We bought a
> pressure transducer to get torque (thru force using a hydraulic cylinder), a
> Hall effect sensor to get RPM, and a wide band oxygen sensor for AFR.  These
> are connected through an interface "box" which goes to an RS232 port using
> USB to RS232 cable.
>
> We've had nothing but problems with their system.  We had to return the
> interface box once already to be fixed (which took about 3 weeks).
> After that we were able to get pressure, but it often loses its settings and
> must be reset.  We get RPM a few seconds before it craps out. No AFR.  The
> whole system is flaky.  I am now sending the box and sensors back a second
> time.  I think the interface box still has problems. I can't decide whether
> to give up on them completely. It seems like it shouldn't be this difficult.
>
> Does anyone else have experience with this company? Do you have a different
> company you would recommend? I realize this is a little different from data
> acquisition for racing, since we are going direct to the computer, but
> thought some of you might have a suggestion.
>
> TIA, Larry Young
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Oct  6 19:47:05 2012
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 11:47:05 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 or Spitfire rear CV axles for sale
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b34Wom=ery8ztc6WXk0mwzagqf7er9Z_NxJ+ug3CFbK3g@mail.gmail.com>

i have a pair of brand new axles with CV's . they came from a front drive
Triumph Toledo I believe. I got them to fit into a GT6 but never used them.
there is also 1 brand new outer drive flange that  has spitfire/GT6 stud
pattern and the inner end of the axle is a taper that matches a rotoflex.
i'm not sure what happened to the other flange

contact me off line if you are interested

thanks, Terry


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Oct  6 19:58:32 2012
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 11:58:32 +1000
Subject: [Fot] GT6 rotoflex rear hubs with disc & TR6 axle setup
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b346AhOnWgmHFKJ3gbxJ4DQOO8pnXv56NWacM9-QPh6=w@mail.gmail.com>

i have a pair of GT6 MK2 rear hubs that have been modified and have TR6
stub axles fitted with custom bearings. machining etc. They have discs and
alloy calipers fitted (with handbrake). they were made years ago by a local
engineer for a GT6 race car project that never got fininshed.
contact me off forum if interested in buying. i can send pics/more info
thanks, Terry (australia)


From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Oct  8 08:36:50 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 09:36:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS
In-Reply-To: <8CECC2737C79339-105C-18F5@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CECC178A8B503D-C4C-10D4@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CECC2737C79339-105C-18F5@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3DF1FA5B59CD41FFBADACFB0343C463D@rileyPC>

I used a system like this with an old valve spring between flat washers
for compliance.  A  hole in the right place allows a clevis pin
to hold it all together and make it quick to disassemble when you
need to remove the trans.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: malaboge at aol.com
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:17 AM
To: n197tr4 at cs.com ; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS

Fellow motor mounties...

Here's something i did ages ago and have never had a mount go "south"
since...and even if it did, it wouldn't matter much other than the fact that
you'll prolly get some additional vibrations.

Drill two holes down thru the metal plate directly below the existing two
holes for the trans mount.  Make the holes maybe a quarter inch bigger in
diameter than the bolt that holds the trans to the mount.  Now get two new
longer bolts, you'll have to measure the length but its prolly 'bout 3"-4"
long.  Drop the new bolts down thru the trans, mount and lower plate.  Run a
nut up against the bottom of the mount so that the trans is bolted to the
mount as usual.  Now put a large washer or two on the end of the bolt that 
is
stickin out thru the plate.  Use a nylock nut on the end and just tighten it
so that the washers touch the plate.

Now if the mount goes away (yeah like that ever happens) the worst that will
happen is that the bolts will allow the trans to move about an eighth of an
inch or so.  This will even help  save the radiator if that tire wall jumps
out directly in front of you!

mounted in nor cal....
Nick



-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Mar 9, 2012 6:25 am
Subject: [Fot] TR3 TR4 REAR ENGINE MOUNTS NEW DESIGN IN THE WORKS


FOT,
For 20 years we have dealt with various motor mounts at the transmission.
nce we replaced a motor mount at Road America with material available.....a
ine 2 x 4.  We are not sure if that wasnt the best one we had to that point.
Sean got tired of fiddling with substandard mounts and designed his own.  He
ill be installing for use at Road Atlanta.  But I think he will have 1 or 2
ore with him.  It is compatible with the old mount as a direct bolt in
eplacement.
If anyone is interested in seeing it, Sean will show and explain. It is 
heavy
uty, but provides vibration isolation.
He is doing it in SOLIDWORKS for the laser program and has constructed a
mold,
o he can produce more if there is a future interest.
It is likely a lifetime rear mount for race or street.
Any one else interested? Please let me know.

Joe Alexander
. R. E.
45 1st Street
esup, Iowa 50648
19.464.4711  (cell)
197tr4 at cs.com
______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
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From igofaster at att.net  Tue Oct  9 17:26:32 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 16:26:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] I wanna race a GT6... again..
Message-ID: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My lovely collection of GT6's yields two blocks, stock bore, never milled...
Should my new pistons be 010 020 030 or 040 over? 
I thought , if something goes wrong I could re-bore... then I realized , 
sometimes, you don't get the chance to re-bore.... 

so 040 over? 
How do you identify a TR6 versus a GT6 crankshaft? 
Should I be really concerned if one crankshaft or main caps was sourced from 
another block... I mean.... are the crankshaft and block bleeding the same dna? 

It's all re manufactured and fabricated...right... 

Bobby Whitehead


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Oct  9 18:28:24 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2012 20:28:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I wanna race a GT6... again..
In-Reply-To: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349825192.3791.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3E169E1E-D977-4D1B-B105-DF0979D34C91@me.com>

you need to get the block line bored if you mix caps and blocks, good idea to do anyway.  Get the crank nitrided by someone who knows what they are doing, and go with 30 over on the pistons so you get one more chance.  If the cylinders don't need to be bored, leave em stock - no prize money in this!
Crank - need photos or something to compare it to.  If they are side by side the difference is obvious.

On Oct 9, 2012, at 7:26 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:

My lovely collection of GT6's yields two blocks, stock bore, never milled...
Should my new pistons be 010 020 030 or 040 over? 
I thought , if something goes wrong I could re-bore... then I realized , 
sometimes, you don't get the chance to re-bore.... 

so 040 over? 
How do you identify a TR6 versus a GT6 crankshaft? 
Should I be really concerned if one crankshaft or main caps was sourced from 
another block... I mean.... are the crankshaft and block bleeding the same dna? 

It's all re manufactured and fabricated...right... 

Bobby Whitehead
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From clw2000 at msn.com  Wed Oct 10 12:13:46 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 14:13:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
Message-ID: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>

I'm (still) in the planning stage of building my GT6 racer and accumulating
parts and advice.  One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
compliance.  There seems to be a huge variance in what, for example, SVRA will
allow versus HSR (these seem to be the two extremes).  And plenty other orgs
in the middle, VDCA, etc.  There are a lot of great products out there that
are not in the '72 SCCA rulebook.  I'm not looking to "cheat" and I'm trying
to stay true to the original car, but I do want the car to be safe and easy to
work on and tune.  It didn't look like too many of the Mitty Triumphs would
get into the SVRA.  So I'm curious as to some of your perspectives.  Build it
"my way" and then find the org that will take me, or build it "their way" and
not have the best car I can build?  I know it's a matter of personal
preferences, but what are your experiences?  Thanks, Chuck


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Oct  8 08:01:35 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 10:01:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: Spitfire beer
Message-ID: <003001cda55d$6dd09460$4971bd20$@net>

I don't like beer, but this one is pretty cool advertising

Craig

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of Spitfire.pps]


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 10 15:49:05 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:

"One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
compliance."

Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too many
other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to share
our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
the car. (baby steps)
Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
info/help you need.
Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
no investment in your project,
but you sure do.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
1969 Triumph GT6+












_______________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From budscars at comcast.net  Wed Oct 10 16:11:59 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 15:11:59 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <52A685D7949F4779927E4311542668DB@Bud>

If you are going to race vintage....I recommend that you stay in close touch 
with the eligibility chairman, etc of the sanctioning body that you want 
your car approved for...If you are in doubt about anything...call him for 
advice, and keep a log...
Have fun
Racer Bud..spitfire #21...CSRG
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>
To: "Charles WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
Cc: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>
> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
> compliance."
>
> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too 
> many
> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to 
> share
> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
> the car. (baby steps)
> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
> info/help you need.
> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
> no investment in your project,
> but you sure do.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Oct 10 16:12:43 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:12:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>,
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>

Great letter. Sound all the way. Speaking of sound, you'll love that too.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: clw2000 at msn.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>
> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
> compliance."
>
> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too many
> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to share
> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
> the car. (baby steps)
> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
> info/help you need.
> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
> no investment in your project,
> but you sure do.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Oct 10 20:56:53 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:56:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>

Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2012, at 6:12 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> Great letter. Sound all the way. Speaking of sound, you'll love that too.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:49:05 -0500
>> From: jason at multivintage.com
>> To: clw2000 at msn.com
>> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 1:13 PM, Charles WATSON <clw2000 at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> "One issue I would like some feedback on is regulation
>> compliance."
>>
>> Ah, Yes, reasonable concern.
>> You are lucky with the GT6 in that most tech inspectors won't have too
many
>> other cars to compare it too. My general feeling is that, within
>> reason, don't worry to much about the regulations.
>> First, and most important thing is to build the car to be safe and
>> reliable. Use the few FOT cars out there as design models and focus on
>> suspension and drive train solidity first. We are all very willing to
share
>> our "secrets." FYI, almost all the GT6 race cars currently
>> being campaigned are not technically legal for one reason or another and,
>> as you say, for that matter.... just about any Triumph car you saw at the
>> Mitty. But, they (usually) have been modified beyond the regulations based
>> on consistent and recurring failures. And over the years, some regulations
>> have even been amended to allow for (previously) forbidden mods.
>> Do your homework and use what has been proven to work and don't be afraid
>> to think outside the box. as Scott said yesterday... no prize money here.
>> You will be spending a lot of money no matter what... so try to be sure to
>> use what has worked for one of us right off the bat. (and will not have to
>> be done twice)... ask lots of specific questions.
>> I would worry about internal motor mods and advanced horse power stuff
>> last. Build a solid foundation that can finish races. Then build better
>> motors as time goes on (to that solid foundation). As you learn and sort
>> the car. (baby steps)
>> Really cool to see these new cars being built... happy to give any
>> info/help you need.
>> Build a winner you can be proud of, And realize that a 1972 rule book has
>> no investment in your project,
>> but you sure do.
>>
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> Friendly Ghost Racing
>> 1969 Triumph GT6+
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jaboruch at netzero.com  Wed Oct 10 20:40:35 2012
From: jaboruch at netzero.com (Joe Boruch)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 02:40:35 GMT
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Message-ID: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>

Bud, have you tried another relay?  I had a bad relay on my street TR4 and I
seem to recall that it behaved similarly.  When I ran an OD in my race TR3 I
did not use the relay, just used a heavy duty switch.  One less thing to go
wrong.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
Cc: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600

When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap
removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the
meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.

Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay
will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the
high resistance.

Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to
the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing
something up?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:

> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would
> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the
> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/
>> bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net


____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 10 21:56:29 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:56:29 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>

 -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hasty
>
>
> "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
> drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
> violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
> fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules."


John,

No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy for
looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season. And
quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems to
be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars with
lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by certain
German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least a limited
access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm not condoning
any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our TRIUMPH FRIENDs that
are developing various modern solutions to help with obvious difficulty in
trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From tr4.tony at virgin.net  Thu Oct 11 02:33:31 2012
From: tr4.tony at virgin.net (TR4 Tony)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 09:33:31 +0100
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>

You may just have a bad earth to the solenoid via the gearbox itself.

On most the black wire is fastened to the gearbox via a circular bolt
fastening onto one of the top cover bolts. If the cover is sealed using
squeeze on sealant and the earth tab is not connected to the metal then the
solenoid won't work.

Alternatively the spades on he loom might be badly connected.

Usually the big metal 6RA relays are reliable but can get dirty, so pull the
tab overs on the metal cover an lift it off so that you can clean the gunge
out.

Nice job.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On 11 Oct 2012, at 02:40, "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch at netzero.com> wrote:

> Bud, have you tried another relay?  I had a bad relay on my street TR4 and
I
> seem to recall that it behaved similarly.  When I ran an OD in my race TR3
I
> did not use the relay, just used a heavy duty switch.  One less thing to go
> wrong.  Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
> To: Bob Bownes - Seiri <bownes at seiri.com>
> Cc: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
> Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:16:55 -0600
>
> When I test at the wire soldered to the solenoid (with the plastic cap
> removed so I can get to it) that is when it is "clogged up" and the
> meter reads in the hundredths of volts not 12.75.
>
> Others have said I have amps issue not a voltage issue and the relay
> will do that if the contacts get burnt. That may be the source of the
> high resistance.
>
> Can I test the relay by running a lead from the brown wire directly to
> the yellow purple at the relay and bypass the relay without messing
> something up?
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bob Bownes - Seiri wrote:
>
>> It could be a high resistance path in the wiring harness. You would
>> get 12v but not enough current to throw the solenoid. Check the
>> voltage with the solenoid on and off.
>>
>> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:50 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting
>>> process
>>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all
>>> through
>>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>>> doesn't engage.
>>>
>>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the
>>> solenoid
>>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>>
>>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch
>>> the
>>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>>
>>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage
>>> measured
>>> at 12.75)?
>>>
>>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>>> other?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bud Rolofson
>>>
>>>
>>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>>> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
>>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/
>>> bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Woman is 53 But Looks 25
> Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony at virgin.net


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Oct 11 03:33:16 2012
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 05:33:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
Message-ID: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>

Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail 
after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last 
year.

I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring 
diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 


From tr4.tony at virgin.net  Thu Oct 11 04:50:09 2012
From: tr4.tony at virgin.net (TR4 Tony)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:50:09 +0100
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
	<D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <6D58C46C-71BA-44E5-A17D-8F4C0A44F103@virgin.net>

Durite (Gordon equipment) also supply some very good relays and flasher units
which seem very good in service - I use these on the rally TR4 and no
problems. Same goes for their flasher units.

Regards

Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On 11 Oct 2012, at 10:33, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

> Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail
> after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last
> year.
>
> I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring
> diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4.tony at virgin.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Oct 11 06:44:45 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 08:44:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT SUPPORT - VERY COMPELLING
Message-ID: <8CF75C551E5DEB3-EB4-352C7@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com>

 I am overdue in posting the recent contributors to the FOT FUND....my
apologies and I will catch those up shortly.

But, 'THANKS' to all that have responded to the need to fund expenses for the
2013 KCUP.....

Clearly our group is alive and well and functioning quite nicely without the
formalities of an "ORGANIZATION".

Much credit goes to various sponsors in the past, but the ELKHART LAKE VINTAGE
FESTIVAL is not an event like THE MITTY and the sanctioning body, the VSCDA,
is a non-profit organization.

The ELVF at Road America is a dream event for our organization, but it
requires some self determination on our part. Clearly, we have a lot of "self
determination".  THANKS!





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Thu Oct 11 12:34:49 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 18:34:49 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl><CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com><SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl><457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com><624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>

We of course were never allowed anything but the stock box with the alternate
ratios.  We did not have very much trouble with he box.  I think primarily
because all the parts in the car and from the parts department were new
FACTORY pieces. I think the clubs should allow  the five speed .  It is silly
to see people spend so much money and lost track time when ancient pieces.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Subject: RE: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 06:43:53 -0500
> From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com
> To: jason at multivintage.com; jhhasty at gdhs.com; kaskas at cox.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>
> << Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions,  >>
>
> And, in the case of GT6s, yes I definitely include 5-speed
> transmissions.  One argument frequently made in the cause of originality
> and fairness is that the stock parts wouldn't have such failure problems
> if we didn't use cheater parts to build engines that produce far more
> horsepower than was available "back in the day".  However, even in my
> very mildly-tuned STREET GT6 Which I used to use for 5 or 6 track days a
> year, I went through three transmissions in two years.  I very quickly
> decided that a nice Toyota 5-speed conversion was a good idea, rules or
> no rules.  The ratios are very close to the same, including the 5th gear
> which is the same is the as the stock overdrive ratio.  Kas, I can't
> imagine how you kept the transmissions together back in the day.  Did
> you just rebuild them between every race?
>
> Scott B.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Jason Ostrowski
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:56 PM
> To: John Hasty; Kas Kastner
> Cc: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Hasty
> >
> >
> > "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers,
> > slotted & drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims
> > as regulation violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type
>
> > transgressions are fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond
> the sprit of the rules."
>
>
> John,
>
> No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
> WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
> Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy
> for looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season.
> And quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
> equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems
> to be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
> sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
> different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
> Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
> I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
> Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars
> with lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by
> certain German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least
> a limited access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm
> not condoning any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our
> TRIUMPH FRIENDs that are developing various modern solutions to help
> with obvious difficulty in trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From cartravel at pobox.com  Thu Oct 11 12:51:47 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:51:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] A type overdrive problem
In-Reply-To: <D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <20121010.224035.21128.2@webmail03.dca.untd.com>
	<6673CF27-322E-4749-B98E-6B73BB7F41B4@virgin.net>
	<D499D90EA1154C33B331D43AF2337DE7@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <50771543.5040605@pobox.com>

I used a very simple wiring scheme on my TR3 which allowed overdrive in 
all but reverse.  I used a commodity Bosch relay.  The shipping cost 
more than the relay.  You can find a diagram at:
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/247150-OD-in-every-gear#254262
I think Tony Drews may have it at his website too.
Larry

On 10/11/2012 4:33 AM, yellow04 at tr4racer.com wrote:
> Speaking of relays, the new ones currently on the market are junk. Some fail
> after just a few clicks. I had a Moss supplied 6RA last maybe 20 cycles last
> year.
>
> I've got a part number for a reliable Bosch relay and an overdrive wiring
> diagram out in the shop if anybody is interested.
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From billdentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:36:22 2012
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:36:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7628BD12AFD8-CE0-35D2F@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

Good for you, John.  This is, after all, VINTAGE racing.

Bill Dentinger



-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2012 5:36 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers, slotted &
rilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims as regulation
iolations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type transgressions are
ine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond the sprit of the rules.
Sent from my iPhone


From billdentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 11 18:40:06 2012
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:40:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...
Message-ID: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv8rFPLN_Fg

Not the sports car, but British, related, and some GOOD stuff.

Bill Dentinger


From tlizzard at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 05:26:13 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 07:26:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF762942C18061-CE0-35D7B@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds6F2A5D2FE0EEDB0FEB2FBC38C0@phx.gbl>

Thanks Bill...

Aircraft of WW2 are one of my passions.

Most of that footage is late war BTW.

Still a cool find.


Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: billdentin at aol.com<mailto:billdentin at aol.com>
  To: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 8:40 PM
  Subject: [Fot] Spitfires...


  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv8rFPLN_Fg<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z
v8rFPLN_Fg>

  Not the sports car, but British, related, and some GOOD stuff.

  Bill Dentinger
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>


From sjanzen at me.com  Fri Oct 12 08:18:11 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 10:18:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>

Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the area?  Russ?

Sent from my mobile device 


From igofaster at att.net  Fri Oct 12 09:23:07 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
Message-ID: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And, when 
you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to be at 
speed in these cars.
The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've really 
hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you and 
your car is toxic.
Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought. 
Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as 
sanctioning rules.
Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes for 
example.
Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of variance 
to vintage spirit. 

I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third rebuild 
in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas. The 
car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I 
presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put a 
Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum 
Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was warrantied 
with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J type 
overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum with 
exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England... in 
the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in 
receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you 
wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going to 
run the T50.... no problem.
I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and their 
sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going to 
continue to run.
Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper 
pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability efforts... 
the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who are 
not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business 
format... IMHO....

Bobby Whitehead

on the hunt... again.....


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Oct 12 09:52:48 2012
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 11:52:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
Message-ID: <7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 09:58:21 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 08:58:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>

I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in this
fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a consistent
proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the days of
people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we don't
want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.

When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in the
hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some very
celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage racing
turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed into the
hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious events. When
is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at a club level
event?

Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity of
cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm in
favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow cars to
have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal less
expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were leading
edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I stepped on my
brakes they did something.

I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it is,
but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You can
buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 10:12:06 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:12:06 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <002601cda894$54cd2890$fe6779b0$@com>

Maybe a TR3/4 is more gifted than other cars but you can make a very fast
car with using the enhanced stock stuff sold by retailers.
140 HP at the wheels is no problem and the stock brakes are outperforming
many others.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 17:58
An: Bobby Whitehead
Cc: FoT Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in
this fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a
consistent proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the
days of people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we
don't want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.

When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in
the hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some
very celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage
racing turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed
into the hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious
events. When is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at
a club level event?

Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity
of cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm
in favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow
cars to have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal
less expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were
leading edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I
stepped on my brakes they did something.

I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it is,
but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You
can buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars.
> And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the
> opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection
> between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far
> as sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern
> gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my
> third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run
vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in
Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the
> way I presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea
> I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree,
> Quantum Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends...
> I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a
> modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by
> Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000
> in receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run
> like you wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a
> customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes
> and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
> going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four
> caliper pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or
> reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those
> who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any
> business format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 10:20:45 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:20:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
In-Reply-To: <7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
Message-ID: <005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From mmoore at wave1.net  Fri Oct 12 10:22:47 2012
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:22:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
In-Reply-To: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
Message-ID: <009601cda895$d1a705b0$74f51110$@net>

I have a spare one you could use, but I am in Erie PA about 3 1/2 hours
away. Maybe somebody is passing by on their way up there and I could meet
them on highway

Thanks
Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
Fax:        814-864-7383


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
area?  Russ?

Sent from my mobile device 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From rikrock at live.com  Fri Oct 12 10:42:38 2012
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:42:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <DUB401-EAS216F963F3F0D5301AEBFDA9C68C0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to Russ we should end up okay.  I had to drill out what remained of the
broken stud, but that went well, so we'll be heading over to see Russ this
afternoon.

What a great group of people!!

Rich Rock
________________________________
From: Spitfire Racing
Sent: 10/12/2012 12:24 PM
To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 12 11:10:44 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:10:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>

Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Oct 12 11:34:04 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:34:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<SNT401-EAS323A8F865D2A7EEA3C704ABB28C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CF76B6E8DA1319-1DD4-399B1@webmail-d004.sysops.aol.com>

 Back in the 90s I removed and replaced Ed Ceilley's GT6 gearbox three times
while at Moroso and Sebring in two weekends of racing.

Twice it was in the rain and three inches of water on the ground.

I would vote for 'GEAR BOXES FREE', especially with GT6s

We seem to be doing quite well with our TR3/4 TRANSMISSIONS, or I would
consider one of the Toyota conversions.

If there were any restrictions placed on a major component, among ourselves, I
would make the engine conform to the old rules. But that is not likely to
happen....and I am OK with that. (I think ours does conform and that's largely
an economic decision)



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 12, 2012 12:11 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph


Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance
advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between
you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm
going
to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
going
to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Oct 12 11:55:14 2012
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:55:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>

Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are 
considered. 




> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6 
> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph 
> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and 
> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution 
> all round.
>  
> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
> 

</HTML>


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 12:04:20 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:04:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
Message-ID: <7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>

Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
issue.... 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 1:55 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com; vangoughv at hotmail.com; igofaster at att.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are
considered. 




> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6 
> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph

> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and

> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution 
> all round.
>  
> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
> 

</HTML>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 12 12:47:01 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:47:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>

Ya SVRA is smart.  Even though I'm with VARAC in Canada I built and registered
my GT6 to SVRA rules for that very reason since my own club had no such
addenda but allows SVRA cars to register and run.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
> issue....
>
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of N197TR4 at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 1:55 PM
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com; vangoughv at hotmail.com; igofaster at att.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Yup, The TR6 conversion is likely the best choice, when all things are
> considered.
>
>
>
>
>> 15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6
>> box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new box was a Triumph
>
>> piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I declared it to my club and
>
>> they were happy to see me on the grid and on the podium.  A good solution
>> all round.
>>
>> I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
>>
>
> </HTML>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Oct 12 12:54:49 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>

> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that stock
>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>> issue....


Like the song says: "same as it ever was".

When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your 
advantage. ;-)

In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate 
gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God 
knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly 
NO advantage other than reliability.

Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created 
(about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I 
wonder why?

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Oct 12 13:48:50 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 19:48:50 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>,
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>,
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>

That is not quite true.  The Toyota pickup and the Celica offer at least 4
alternate ratios for 5th gear, not so with the overdrive. But so what,
compared to missing a guy on the grid for not a good enough reason.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>
> > On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
> >> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
stock
> >> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
> >> issue....
>
>
> Like the song says: "same as it ever was".
>
> When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
> advantage. ;-)
>
> In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
> gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
> knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
> NO advantage other than reliability.
>
> Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
> (about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
> wonder why?
>
> c ya,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 14:30:01 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:30:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>
References: <2c0b.696049da.3da9b382@cs.com>,
	<7B30F8B1425246DEA34A0C6874B08554@gdhs.local>,
	<SNT401-EAS347D566596049A2CE536F9BB28C0@phx.gbl>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1210121449380.12659@isis.mit.edu>
	<SNT120-W43B1F0B472525853326B21DF8C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FD59D259-3EAD-4909-8C11-2A5936C65008@bnj.com>

I don't quite get the "scared of the competition" line. Probably because I've
never really cared about competitors. The guy I want to beat is me--the last
time I raced. But my notions aside, I've always considered the core of racing
to be aiming for an unfair advantage. I think if you're not doing that you're
not racing, or maybe you're doing some odd spec racer version of it. Even in
spec racing there's guys who buy lots of tires, and those that don't.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 12:48 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> That is not quite true.  The Toyota pickup and the Celica offer at least 4
> alternate ratios for 5th gear, not so with the overdrive. But so what,
> compared to missing a guy on the grid for not a good enough reason.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>>> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>>>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
> stock
>>>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>>>> issue....
>>
>>
>> Like the song says: "same as it ever was".
>>
>> When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
>> advantage. ;-)
>>
>> In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
>> gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
>> knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
>> NO advantage other than reliability.
>>
>> Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
>> (about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
>> wonder why?
>>
>> c ya,
>> rml
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 14:48:46 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 16:48:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee 
arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any 
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should 
fit in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in 
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I 
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not sure 
what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars 
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 14:58:30 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:58:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>

Most of the Jaguar automatics I have experience with are hideous. I think they
were originally Borg-Warner. Had one in a 420 I owned briefly that I sold as a
parts car. Adapting a modern five or six speed automatic would not be all that
tough and could be VERY cool. If I were going to do it I'd get Tony Garmey to
do the fabrication.

No, it won't fit in the TR3 case. Does ANYONE really use TR3 transmissions? If
they do I have three or four they can have. I consider them useless.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 1:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mlcooknj at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 15:00:20 2012
From: mlcooknj at msn.com (michael cook)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:00:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY147-W43D1E20DB3EFEAA249753EC88C0@phx.gbl>

>From the internet: Hobbs, Howard Frederick (19021982)by G. H. Brooks	Howard
Frederick Hobbs (1902-1982), inventor, was born on 21 September 1902 at East
Marden, Adelaide, fifth of six surviving children of South Australian-born
parents James Harris Hobbs, fruit-grower, and his wife Mary Eliza, nie Pitt.
Educated at Prince Alfred College, as a boy Howard showed an aptitude for
things mechanical. At 14 he built a full-size aeroplane (without wings) that
was taxied around the familys garden, powered by a motorcycle engine. On
leaving school he worked at his fathers orchard and market garden at
Paradise. He married Phyllis Dorothy Reid, a schoolteacher, at Payneham
Methodist Church on 12 May 1925. Next year he applied for his first patent, an
improved appliance for the grading of fruit. 	Driving motorcars and lorries
from an early age, Hobbs cherished an ambition to eliminate the need for gear
changing. After many experiments he had a light car fitted with the `Hobbs
gearless drive ready for testing; Professors (Sir) Robert Chapman and (Sir)
Kerr Grant of the University of Adelaide found it satisfactory and simple to
operate. Hobbs Gearless Drive Ltd was formed in 1931 to market the device and
to administer the patent rights. In June 1931 Hobbs, with his wife and
daughter, sailed for Britain, where he also took out patents. For the next
thirty-five years the family were to live at Leamington Spa, Warwickshire; two
sons were born. Hobbs was unable to persuade car manufacturers to use the
`gearless drive: based on rotating weights, it incorporated a free-wheel
clutch, or ratchet, which was probably the weakness in the device. Other
inventors with similar ideas also failed to attract interest in their
mechanisms. 	After engaging in war work, in 1946 Hobbs was helped by a wealthy
industrialist to form Hobbs Transmission Ltd. He discarded the gearless drive
and developed the `Mechamatic transmission. The new automatic gearbox was
more complicated, with epicyclic gears and hydraulically operated friction
clutches. Mechamatic, with four forward gears, unusual at that time, was
lightweight and suitable for small cars. Many well-known makers built
prototypes but the only one to reach production was the Lanchester Sprite,
produced in 1955 by the Birmingham Small Arms Co. Ltd. For financial reasons
BSA soon abandoned the project. 	Westinghouse Brake & Signal Co. Ltd bought
BSAs shares in Hobbs Transmission and, anticipating its use in the Ford
Cortina, built a factory at Manchester to manufacture the Mechamatic. When
Ford decided not to proceed, Hobbs Transmission went into liquidation. In the
1960s Hobbss son David successfully drove a Lotus Elite fitted with the
Mechamatic gearbox in international motor races. The family moved to Napton,
near Rugby, about 1965 and Hobbs and his son John set up a workshop. They went
back to the original concept of the infinitely variable drive, but this time
hydraulic, not mechanical. Hobbs took out an Australian patent in the name of
Variable Kinetic Drives Ltd, but like its predecessors this also failed
commercially. In 1977 Hobbs was invited to participate in the British Genius
Exhibition at Battersea.
 > From: BillDentin at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 16:48:46 -0400
> To: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mlcooknj at msn.com


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct 12 15:06:49 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:06:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <et2v9u3vksvvrkq3x4fn2ygh.1350076009452@email.android.com>

ISTR that some of Jim Hall's Chaparals had 2 speed powerglide transmissions.

One of the DTSC members has recently converted a TR4 to automatic. Not a race car, but...

Cheers,

Doug
--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

>Amici...
>
>With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee 
>arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any 
>options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should 
>fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
>Bill (Damdinger)
>
>PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in 
>Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I 
>understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not sure 
>what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars 
>Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:07:54 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:07:54 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>

I can shift my dogbox without clutch.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee arthritis
issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should fit
in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:10:49 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:10:49 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did they
build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50% of the
time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 12 15:11:49 2012
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 15:11:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <0903181D-21C0-4EE8-AC96-5188C76DE210@yahoo.com>

Is a dog box allowed by the sanctioning body?  Just kidding!

Ty

Sent from my iPhone

'63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
'62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
++++


On Oct 12, 2012, at 3:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 15:29:49 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 17:29:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <8698.14477805.3da9e5cc@aol.com>

Mike...

WOW!  Interesting dossier on David Hobbs' Dad.  

Incidentally, David Hobbs now owns a Honda dealership in Glendale, 
Wisconsin (Milwaukee suburb), and at a cocktail party there one time the VSCDA 
brought a bunch of vintage sports cars to be on display in the shop (which 
actually got scrubbed clean for the event).  Anyway I brought our Tornado Thunder 
Bolt and David Hobbs got all excited.  He brought a picture down from his 
office of that Lotus referred to in the article and the Thunder Bolt racing 
over in England.  I asked him if the Thunder Bolt was getting ready to lap him 
in the picture.  He did not think that was very funny and promised to tell 
me some time just how ill-mannered the Thunder Bolt was when it was first 
built.  I see David at Road America from time to time, but still have not 
heard the rest of the story.  I hope to someday because David Hobbs is a Hell of 
a story teller.  When he and Brian Redman get together you are guaranteed 
to split a gut laughing.

Bill Dentinger


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:38:19 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:38:19 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>

I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
Straight cut also. Almost stock.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
An: MadMarx
Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did
they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50%
of the time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Oct 12 15:43:14 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 23:43:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
Message-ID: <000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>

Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
An: MadMarx
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:

> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
> fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
> clutch 50% of the time.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>> Amici...
>>
>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>
>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>
>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Oct 12 16:24:57 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:24:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>

amen to that



On 10/12/12 11:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And, when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've really
> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes for
> example.
> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of variance
> to vintage spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas. The
> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J type
> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum with
> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England... in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going to
> run the T50.... no problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going to
> continue to run.
> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who are
> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
> format... IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt... again.....
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From billb at bnj.com  Fri Oct 12 16:33:09 2012
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 15:33:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
Message-ID: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>

That's my story too. It's almost stock. Ignore that straight cut gear howl.
They were all like that.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:43 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
> An: MadMarx
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:
>
>> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
>> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
>> An: MadMarx
>> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>
>> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
>> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
>> clutch 50% of the time.
>>
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>>
>>> Amici...
>>>
>>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>>
>>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>>
>>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
>> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>>
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>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From clw2000 at msn.com  Fri Oct 12 16:57:10 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 18:57:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS  GT6 REBUILD
In-Reply-To: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>,
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>,
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>,
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>,
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>,
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>,
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W49B52F4FBF75DE8CFAA17FBF8C0@phx.gbl>

I think I started all this muckracking, so a question to help me out based on
what I'm hearing:

"Facts"
- The GT6 trans was good when new, but really unreliable now after 40 years
- Suitable alternatives are TR 3/4/6, T9 or various Toyota
- I have a typical spec GT6 4-spd with overdrive

Questions:
- Am I better off swapping the base unit out during the build or giving it a
chance?
- Is OD of any use?
- From my read of regs, a five speed is allowed as an alternative when
replacing a 4spd OD unit, as long as 5th gear is < a 1.1 ratio.  If so, what's
my best option?




Thanks,

Chuck Watson


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:50:11 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <606EFA2A-B3D7-440F-8872-A998D1E20788@gdhs.com>

By God Bill there's the answer. Autos shucks it worked for Lance  why not for
us ?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure
> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:50:57 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:50:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
References: <6F32FDCE-4E5C-4B1B-BE77-A3FB9ABB532B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <8F390423-2B7A-495B-9190-9D7D6F8CD06C@gdhs.com>

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Date: October 12, 2012 8:46:09 PM EDT
> To: "Snowdonracing at aol.com" <Snowdonracing at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
>
> Thanks Ray. I know that is what the  G3 rules say; but the special rules for
TR3's states original transmissions. So the rules say one thing under G3 and
another under TR3-4.  How are we to know which one is correct?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Hi John,
>>
>>     Thanks for the note and sorry you are having issues.  There is a
substitution rule in the Group 3 Supplementals already.  It states:
>> "Standard gearbox may be replaced with an alternate PRODUCTION BASED
GEARBOX of the same number of forward speeds.  ADD 75LBS. TO OFFICIAL WEIGHT.
When replacing a 4-speed w/overdrive unit with a 5-speed, the 5th gear must be
lower numerically than 1 : 1."
>> If a non-standard gearbox is being used, it must be declared on the RCIS
sheet for the vehicle.
>> Your Triumph, TR3, lists a 4-speed with Laycock overdrive optional.  That
means 5 forward speeds.
>> So, the rules are already there.  Cars that were never equipped with
overdrive, or as an option, must continue to keep their original number of
forward speeds.
>> The number of forward speeds is something that we will be checking on for
2013 as we step up on rules enforcement.
>> I hope this answers your questions.
>> Ray
>>
>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 1:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>> Ray:
>>     As our Triumphs, MGs, Morgans, Elvas etc. get even older than they
>> already are, a number of us are having transmission problems with the
>> original gear boxes which are causing frequent costly repairs and I
>> understand that MGs are also having source problems as well.  While I
>> understand the spirit of the rules and try to keep my TR within them,
>> reliability and the cost of fixing old "stuff" is becoming a problem which
>> may well keep some of us from participating in as many events as we might
>> otherwise like.  For instance I just spent $730 to go through my TR box
and
>> after the Gold Cup, it feels like it needs it again.  It may well be time
to
>> consider, in the interest of safety and reliability, allowing these cars
to
>> use the readily available GM and Toyota 5 speed transmission conversions.
I
>> note also, that 4 speeds vs. 5 speeds is not a problem in as much as these
>> old English cars had overdrive units available which, like my car, give
you
>> an effective 5 speed unit.
>>     I would also note that there are already some cars using these
>> conversions and there should be a "level playing field" approach
considered
>> as well.  Please give some thought to this with your Tech staff .  I look
>> forward to your response....
>>
>> John H. Hasty  SVRA # 8326
>> Attorney At Law
>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>> 719 East Boulevard
>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>> www.gdhs.com
>>
>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
that
>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
>> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>>
>> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
>> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
>> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
>> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
>> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
>> addressed herein.


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:56:17 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:56:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <548262A1-EE32-4638-9856-A000657550DA@gdhs.com>

Being near  Alsace I expect they are French Poodles

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 6:33 PM, Bill Babcock <billb at bnj.com> wrote:

> That's my story too. It's almost stock. Ignore that straight cut gear howl.
> They were all like that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:43 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Not German Shepards, German Bastucks :-)
>> 
>> 
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Jerry Barr [mailto:jerrybarr at charter.net]
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:42
>> An: MadMarx
>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>> 
>> What kind of dogs? German Shepards?
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:38 PM, MadMarx wrote:
>> 
>>> I run a stock housing with J-OD and some dogs inside.
>>> Straight cut also. Almost stock.
>>> 
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 23:11
>>> An: MadMarx
>>> Cc: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net;
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>> 
>>> Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When
>>> did they build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the
>>> clutch 50% of the time.
>>> 
>>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>>> Im Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
>>>> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
>>>> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
>>>> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
>>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>>>> 
>>>> Amici...
>>>> 
>>>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>>>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.
>>>> Anyone know of any options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist,
>>>> so hopefully it should fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>>> 
>>>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>>> 
>>>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over
>>>> in Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.
>>>> The way I understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic
>>>> transmissions.  I am not sure what they went into, but I am going to
>>>> guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars Works racing logs we have talk about
>>> racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Oct 12 18:58:36 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:58:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<EA91A7B1-AD58-4BCC-A5EB-63D0A989A565@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <D592CFCC-41E2-4731-860F-0367AC8073A6@gdhs.com>

Gee, in still use a 3 close ratio with A  O D

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 4:58 PM, Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com> wrote:

> Most of the Jaguar automatics I have experience with are hideous. I think
they
> were originally Borg-Warner. Had one in a 420 I owned briefly that I sold as
a
> parts car. Adapting a modern five or six speed automatic would not be all
that
> tough and could be VERY cool. If I were going to do it I'd get Tony Garmey
to
> do the fabrication.
>
> No, it won't fit in the TR3 case. Does ANYONE really use TR3 transmissions?
If
> they do I have three or four they can have. I consider them useless.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 1:48 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Amici...
>>
>> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
>> arthritis issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone
> know of any
>> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
>> fit in the original TR3 tranny case.
>>
>> Bill (Damdinger)
>>
>> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
>> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
>> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure
>> what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
>> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From sjanzen at me.com  Fri Oct 12 20:33:21 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 22:33:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>

My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff.

Sent from my mobile device 

On Oct 11, 2012, at 2:34 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> We of course were never allowed anything but the stock box with the alternate
> ratios.  We did not have very much trouble with he box.  I think primarily
> because all the parts in the car and from the parts department were new
> FACTORY pieces. I think the clubs should allow  the five speed .  It is silly
> to see people spend so much money and lost track time when ancient pieces.
> 
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Subject: RE: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>> Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 06:43:53 -0500
>> From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com
>> To: jason at multivintage.com; jhhasty at gdhs.com; kaskas at cox.net
>> CC: fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> << Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions,  >>
>> 
>> And, in the case of GT6s, yes I definitely include 5-speed
>> transmissions.  One argument frequently made in the cause of originality
>> and fairness is that the stock parts wouldn't have such failure problems
>> if we didn't use cheater parts to build engines that produce far more
>> horsepower than was available "back in the day".  However, even in my
>> very mildly-tuned STREET GT6 Which I used to use for 5 or 6 track days a
>> year, I went through three transmissions in two years.  I very quickly
>> decided that a nice Toyota 5-speed conversion was a good idea, rules or
>> no rules.  The ratios are very close to the same, including the 5th gear
>> which is the same is the as the stock overdrive ratio.  Kas, I can't
>> imagine how you kept the transmissions together back in the day.  Did
>> you just rebuild them between every race?
>> 
>> Scott B.
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Jason Ostrowski
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:56 PM
>> To: John Hasty; Kas Kastner
>> Cc: fot
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: John Hasty
>>> 
>>> 
>>> "Jason. Do you include 5 speed transmissions, 4 piston calipers,
>>> slotted & drilled discs, Weber carbs, 50 profile tires on 7 inch rims
>>> as regulation violations not to worry about?  Safety, reliability type
>> 
>>> transgressions are fine, but the other stuff is, in my opinion, beyond
>> the sprit of the rules."
>> 
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> No, that's perhaps why my car doesn't have any of that stuff. Key words,
>> WITHIN REASON. You should know by now that I fully promote the use of
>> Triumph parts and period correct parts. But I also wouldn't fault a guy
>> for looking for a reasonable fix to 3 blown transmissions in a season.
>> And quite frankly any organization that would require you to use sub-par
>> equipment simply to adhere to a 40 year old formula of "Fairness" seems
>> to be digging its own grave. Bud's point about being open with your
>> sanctioning body is important here. I think different cars require
>> different mods (even for vintage) and should be classed accordingly.
>> Otherwise, you are essentially requiring wasting $.
>> I think that certain case by case analysis of this issue is reasonable.
>> Most importantly, I don't like my Triumph friends being beaten by cars
>> with lots of brand new parts that are available "off the shelf" by
>> certain German and Japanese brands. We need to be able to have at least
>> a limited access to similar parts as cars we are racing against.  I'm
>> not condoning any V8 drop-ins here, yet I wholeheartedly support our
>> TRIUMPH FRIENDs that are developing various modern solutions to help
>> with obvious difficulty in trying to race safely in a 40+ year old car.
>> 
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> Friendly Ghost Racing
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct 12 20:32:42 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 20:32:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <0903181D-21C0-4EE8-AC96-5188C76DE210@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.175.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

If I could afford one I wouldn't care.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Yahoo
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 3:12 PM
To: MadMarx
Cc: <ponobill at gmail.com>; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Is a dog box allowed by the sanctioning body?  Just kidding!

Ty

Sent from my iPhone

'63 Triumph TR4 DP Racecar
'62 Triumph TR4 RestoMod (Project)
++++


On Oct 12, 2012, at 3:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Oct 13 06:15:05 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 08:15:05 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>

OUCH!!!

It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!

Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.

Russ

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
minutes from the Glen.
Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail storms
and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Tobin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen

Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen


> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first 
> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the 
> area?  Russ?
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 13 06:48:26 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 08:48:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>

Wow. I'm 300 miles north and it's about the same temp

Have a great time gents!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-13, at 8:16 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
wrote:

> OUCH!!!
>
> It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
> much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
> afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
> temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
> with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!
>
> Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.
>
> Russ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
> To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
> I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only 40
> minutes from the Glen.
> Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail
storms
> and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.
>
> Russ Moore
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bill Tobin
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
> To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
> Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
> I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
> Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>
>
>> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
>> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
>> area?  Russ?
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From REK46 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 07:33:39 2012
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:33:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Wheel balancer
Message-ID: <20260.1b67d7ac.3daac7b3@aol.com>

____________________________________
 From: REK46 at aol.com
To: spitlist at cox.net
Sent: 10/13/2012 9:31:48 A.M.  Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: Wheel balancer


I inherited a nice wheel balancer from an old friend..Its a  
Micro-Precision ,model M-60...supposedly same as ones sold as Coats  Co....BUT,one problem 
with it, the bubble is enlarged to almost the size  of the window(supposed 
to be small for centering in the dial)...the part is  #106843 Bubble Cap 
Assembly...Apparenly these are obsolete in production. Does  anyone know if the 
bubble cap can be repaired and renewed to proper standards  and by 
whom?..Or does anyone have an old unit that they might donate/sell me  the cap. 
Really hate to scrap the whole thing,plus the sentimental value...Any  help 
would be  appreciated....Rick


From jkhagen at charter.net  Sat Oct 13 08:28:00 2012
From: jkhagen at charter.net (jkhagen at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 10:28:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
Message-ID: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>

Friends,  If you upgrade everything that could fail-it would not be 
vintage let alone the spirit of vintage racing.  John Hagen


On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Vince G wrote:

> Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
> Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is 
> the
> same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance 
> advantage,
> it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in 
> the day
> to for reliability and safety.
>
> Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend 
> early due
> to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even 
> showing me
> up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could 
> have
> been prevented.
>
> IMHO
>
> Vince Garrett
> #144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)
>
> Have a great weekend everyone!
>
>
> On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> 
> wrote:
>
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. 
>> And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the 
>> opportunity to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and 
>> you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection 
>> between you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far 
>> as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern 
>> gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought 
>> of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>>
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my 
>> third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run 
>> vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
>> Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the 
>> way I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I 
>> would put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, 
>> Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a 
>> modified J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by 
>> Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from 
>> England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about 
>> $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run 
>> like you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, 
>> I'm going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes 
>> and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars 
>> are going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four 
>> caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... 
>> those who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any 
>> business
>> format... IMHO....
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
>>
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jkhagen at charter.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Oct 13 08:53:54 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:53:54 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.176.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Isn't it a bit early in the fall for the annual "what is vintage?" 
discussion?  Normally we wait until like December or January when 
everyone's testy from the cold weather.  :)

Tony Drews


From REK46 at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 09:07:39 2012
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:07:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Wheel balancer help
Message-ID: <5d14.59de8aa1.3daaddba@aol.com>

I inherited a nice wheel balancer from an old friend..Its a Micro-Precision 
 ,model M-60...supposedly same as ones sold as Coats Co....BUT,one problem 
with  it, the bubble is enlarged to almost the size of the window(supposed 
to be small  for centering in the dial)...the part is #106843 Bubble Cap 
Assembly...Apparenly  these are obsolete in production. Does anyone know if the 
bubble cap can be  repaired and renewed to proper standards and by whom?..Or 
does anyone have an  old unit that they might donate/sell me the cap. 
Really hate to scrap the whole  thing,plus the sentimental value...Any help would 
be  appreciated....Rick


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Sat Oct 13 09:12:18 2012
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:12:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR2 - TR6 Triumph gearboxes
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl><CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com><SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl><457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com><624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry><CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com><SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
	<CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>
Message-ID: <FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>

You small chassis Triumph racers, this probably does not apply to you...

Keep in mind a properly prepared Triumph gearbox that is used with a 
reasonable amount of care will last a long time. The recipe to get a box to 
shift right in race conditions and last many weekends is extraordinarly 
simple, build it to the bottom end of the clearance specs in the book. You 
either have to build the gearbox yourself, or insist your rebuilder take the 
time required to set every clearance as tight as the spec allows.

Most importantly, remember when on track what you are not driving a modern 
gearbox. Show it a little sympathy,  it will last.

Or, spend the bucks on the T5 conversion. I don't care, it means more TR 
gearbox bits available for me!

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback


> My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially 
> compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for 
> adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff. 


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 13 09:48:04 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 11:48:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR2 - TR6 Triumph gearboxes
In-Reply-To: <FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <BLU154-W40811039F89ACDD256FD64BF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<CALCydYp2keUEAF4S-HFdB1YdVEKwDZFOBKDN87wRoQ5US3tp5g@mail.gmail.com>
	<SNT120-W36AB3EBE38F78FBBBB55C4DF8E0@phx.gbl>
	<457BE33B-5FC2-4328-B8B2-C82670D92123@gdhs.com>
	<624351479-1349927188-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1411575245-@b12.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<CALCydYrGCGOLLdj28CQeONcUx4vOup6RS5B5f=5Eg5DirW=Xgw@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE8A5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<SNT120-W447B5BC3411D6DD72B48ECDF8D0@phx.gbl>
	<CA22122C-9037-491C-BD28-1EB9B4545619@me.com>
	<FD049CB66C1B47D9A529565BF8A01A29@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1052E86004EBA49EA7B5F3FB2730@phx.gbl>

I will be rebuilding my gearbox so thank you for this advice....

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-13, at 11:12 AM, yellow04 at tr4racer.com wrote:

> You small chassis Triumph racers, this probably does not apply to you...
>
> Keep in mind a properly prepared Triumph gearbox that is used with a
> reasonable amount of care will last a long time. The recipe to get a box to
> shift right in race conditions and last many weekends is extraordinarly
> simple, build it to the bottom end of the clearance specs in the book. You
> either have to build the gearbox yourself, or insist your rebuilder take the
> time required to set every clearance as tight as the spec allows.
>
> Most importantly, remember when on track what you are not driving a modern
> gearbox. Show it a little sympathy,  it will last.
>
> Or, spend the bucks on the T5 conversion. I don't care, it means more TR
> gearbox bits available for me!
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Reg Compliance - Your Feedback
>
>
>> My tr6 transmission transplant into my GT6 has been great!!! Especially
>> compared to replacing the GT6 box every other race weekend.  I vote for
>> adhering to four forward gears and Triumph stuff.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From budscars at comcast.net  Fri Oct 12 10:28:05 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 09:28:05 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<71304870-E285-4F7A-8FC4-35E8F7FE98F9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <B6BCCF8E677C4D7788DEA13D3A8BFA90@Bud>

The quote that someone made..."If you want to race these cars you have to 
love these cars" rings very true to me..Loving my race car, even if I cannot 
use it for a while is part of the wonderful process of being involved with 
our terrific sport..When the car breaks..that too is part of the 
process..These cars..be they loaded with racing history or built from a 
street Triumph are an indication of  passion..For instance..How FOT is so 
great at helping new racers..The comradry is beautiful
We are lucky people!
Racer Bud Spitfire #21

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: "FoT Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph


> I've stayed out of this discussion, in part because I don't have a dog in 
> this
> fight (I use a dog box inside a TR6 case) and partly because I'm a 
> consistent
> proponent of vintage racing organizations understanding that the days of
> people running "real" vintage cars are over or dying fast, and if we don't
> want to see ever-shrinking grids it's time for a new idea.
>
> When I started racing vintage there were all kinds of exotic cars, many in 
> the
> hands of ordinary mortals. People with dogs, kids and a job owned some 
> very
> celebrated cars that they had bought for next to nothing. Vintage racing
> turned those cars into multi-million dollar icons and they all passed into 
> the
> hands of collectors, who only race them at the most prestigious events. 
> When
> is the last time you saw a Ferrari TR or even a Maserati 300 at a club 
> level
> event?
>
> Making racing ridiculously expensive in order to preserve the authenticity 
> of
> cars that never raced before seems more than a bit counterproductive. I'm 
> in
> favor of a well thought out list of permitted modifications that allow 
> cars to
> have greater performance AND greater reliability which should equal less
> expense. I don't really get why brake system modifications that were 
> leading
> edge 30 years ago are prohibited. I'd kind of like it if when I stepped on 
> my
> brakes they did something.
>
> I don't know that I'd bother with a five speed, Peyote works fine as it 
> is,
> but it seems obvious that more modern transmissions should be allowed. You 
> can
> buy them at junkyards. They last a long time.
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 8:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
>
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity 
>> to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between 
>> you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>>
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run 
>> vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
>> Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way 
>> I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would 
>> put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified 
>> J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from 
>> England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like 
>> you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm 
>> going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are 
>> going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those 
>> who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any 
>> business
>> format... IMHO....
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
>>
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Oct 12 11:50:49 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 13:50:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <32347.375ca8d7.3da9b278@aol.com>

15 years ago, at least, I replaced the GT6 gearbox in my racer with a TR6  
box.  I was breaking a stock trans EVERY race!   The new  box was a Triumph 
piece and carried a 40 pound weight penalty.  I  declared it to my club and 
they were happy to see me on the grid and on the  podium.  A good solution 
all round.
 
I doubt I could justify a five speed to myself or the scrutineers.
 
 
In a message dated 10/12/2012 10:42:13 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:

Back in  the 90s I removed and replaced Ed Ceilley's GT6 gearbox three times
while  at Moroso and Sebring in two weekends of racing.

Twice it was in the  rain and three inches of water on the ground.

I would vote for 'GEAR  BOXES FREE', especially with GT6s

We seem to be doing quite well with  our TR3/4 TRANSMISSIONS, or I would
consider one of the Toyota  conversions.

If there were any restrictions placed on a major  component, among 
ourselves, I
would make the engine conform to the old  rules. But that is not likely to
happen....and I am OK with that. (I think  ours does conform and that's 
largely
an economic  decision)



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup,  Iowa 50648
319.464.4711   (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original  Message-----
From: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: Bobby  Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: FoT Triumph  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 12, 2012 12:11 pm
Subject: Re:  [Fot] Racing a Triumph


Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
Once Im  through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
same  ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a  performance
advantage,
it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the  axles on the gt6 in the 
day
to for reliability and safety.

Aren't we  all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early 
due
to  mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing  
me
up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could  have
been prevented.

IMHO

Vince Garrett
#144 GT6+  (BRUTUS)

Have a great weekend everyone!


On 2012-10-12, at  11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I  think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars.  And,
when
> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love  the opportunity 
to
be at
> speed in these cars.
> The elixir  that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
>  hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection  between
you
and
> your car is toxic.
> Modified in the  spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> Safety should be the  #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> sanctioning  rules.
> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern  gearboxes
for
> example.
> Performance should be the last  modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> to vintage  spirit.
>
> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and  as I begin my third
rebuild
> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of  what it takes to try to run 
vintage...
> Personally I had my build  booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in 
Texas.
The
> car I  purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way 
I
>  presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would  
put
a
> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us  agree, Quantum
> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2  weekends... I was
warrantied
> with Quantum which I thought was  awesome another gearbox with a modified 
J
type
> overdrive which also  lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> exchange  I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set  from
England...
in
> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car  and along with about $4000 in
> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,,  you know,,, I tried to run like 
you
> wanted me to but if you want to to  run consistently as a customer, I'm
going
to
> run the T50.... no  problem.
> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old  gearboxes and
their
> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to  change if these cars are
going
to
> continue to run.
>  Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four  caliper
> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or  reliability
efforts...
> the racing organizations are businesses at  the end of the day... those 
who
are
> not flexible in business  willing to modify will not survive in any 
business
> format...  IMHO....
>
> Bobby Whitehead
>
> on the hunt...  again.....
> _______________________________________________
>  fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:13:15 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:13:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
Message-ID: <1350155595.55678.YahooMailRC@web182202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

that's another can of worms... but , really , if a Spridget guy wants to spend 
$6000 for a dogbox set of gears, it is still a reliability issue, with some 
potential for a gain in speed....
just no 'cruise control' , that's where I would draw the line....

great discussions on the thread btw..... thanks to you friends of Triumph!

Bobby




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: BillDentin at aol.com; ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, October 12, 2012 4:08:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS

I can shift my dogbox without clutch.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS

Amici...

With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee arthritis
issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should fit
in the original TR3 tranny case.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado Cars
Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
_______________________________________________
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:17:58 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:17:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <1350155878.87341.YahooMailRC@web182204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" .... broke....

Bobby




________________________________
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, October 12, 2012 4:18:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS

Wait a minute, I thought you were blessed with fine stock parts. When did they
build TRs with Dog Boxes. And YES, I shift mone without the clutch 50% of the
time.

On Oct 12, 2012, at 2:07 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I can shift my dogbox without clutch.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von BillDentin at aol.com
> Gesendet: Freitag, 12. Oktober 2012 22:49
> An: ponobill at gmail.com; kaskas at cox.net
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> Amici...
>
> With all of this talk about transmissions, and my serious hip/knee
arthritis
> issues, what would really interest me is an automatic.  Anyone know of any
> options open to me there?  I tend to be a Purist, so hopefully it should
fit
> in the original TR3 tranny case.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Actually, I don't know about over here, but back in the day over in
> Europe, they did run some automatic transmissions in race cars.  The way I
> understand it, David Hobbs family built automatic transmissions.  I am not
> sure what they went into, but I am going to guess Jaguar as the Tornado
Cars
> Works racing logs we have talk about racing against the 'Hobbs Jag'.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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_______________________________________________
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 13 13:27:34 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:27:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Watkins
In-Reply-To: <SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>

Good grief the VDCA Dec race at Savannah is usually in the 60's or mid 50's.
19 is out of the question for me.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 13, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Wow. I'm 300 miles north and it's about the same temp
>
> Have a great time gents!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-10-13, at 8:16 AM, "Spitfire Racing" <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
> wrote:
>
>> OUCH!!!
>>
>> It was 19 degrees at my place this morning with a heavy frost. Couldn't be
>> much different at the Glen. Supposed to warm up to high forties in the
>> afternoon..................... Sessions start at 8:30 when the projected
>> temp should be 28-32 degrees according to the web. This is where the guys
>> with closed cars and heaters smile a lot!
>>
>> Dave's TR4 should be all set. I had all the parts he needed.
>>
>> Russ
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 12:21 PM
>> To: 'Bill Tobin'; 'Scott Janzen'; 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph''
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>> I think I have them covered and they're on their way to me which is only
40
>> minutes from the Glen.
>> Bring warm clothing. Beside the rain we've had a few fast moving hail
> storms
>> and also flurries most of the morning! Windy too.
>>
>> Russ Moore
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Bill Tobin
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 11:53 AM
>> To: Scott Janzen; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>> Scott, are they the same as a TR6?
>> I'm coming up tonight or tomorrow AM.
>> Bill
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
>> To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:18 AM
>> Subject: [Fot] Tr4 urgent need at Watkins Glen
>>
>>
>>> Help - Dave Millers' tr4 broke a rocker shaft pedestal stud in the first
>>> session this morning and bent the rocker shaft. Anybody with parts in the
>>> area?  Russ?
>>>
>>> Sent from my mobile device
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
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>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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>>
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From igofaster at att.net  Sat Oct 13 13:40:07 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 12:40:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1350157207.21617.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

yes, but if you upgrade something that fails all the time you CAN participate... 
no fun driving 1000 miles each way and loading up your pride and joy the FIRST 
day... it happens ....




________________________________
From: "jkhagen at charter.net" <jkhagen at charter.net>
To: Vince G <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
Cc: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>; FoT Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, October 13, 2012 9:28:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

Friends,  If you upgrade everything that could fail-it would not be vintage let 
alone the spirit of vintage racing.  John Hagen


On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Vince G wrote:

> Well said Bobby, I agree 100%.
> Once Im through my 3rd triumph gearbox Brutus is getting a T9 which is the
> same ratio as the gt6 box just stronger.  This is not a performance advantage,
> it's common sense, just as group 44 upgraded the axles on the gt6 in the day
> to for reliability and safety.
> 
> Aren't we all unhappy to see our fellow racers leave a race weekend early due
> to mechanical failures.  I'd rather have my buddy dicing and even showing me
> up than be racing alone because his car failed for reasons that could have
> been prevented.
> 
> IMHO
> 
> Vince Garrett
> #144 GT6+ (BRUTUS)
> 
> Have a great weekend everyone!
> 
> 
> On 2012-10-12, at 11:23 AM, "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
> 
>> I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
> when
>> you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
> be at
>> speed in these cars.
>> The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
> really
>> hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between you
> and
>> your car is toxic.
>> Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
>> Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
>> sanctioning rules.
>> Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
> for
>> example.
>> Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
> variance
>> to vintage spirit.
>> 
>> I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
> rebuild
>> in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run vintage...
>> Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in Texas.
> The
>> car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way I
>> presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would put
> a
>> Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
>> Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
> warrantied
>> with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
> type
>> overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
> with
>> exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from England...
> in
>> the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
>> receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like you
>> wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm going
> to
>> run the T50.... no problem.
>> I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
> their
>> sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are going
> to
>> continue to run.
>> Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
>> pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
> efforts...
>> the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
> are
>> not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any business
>> format... IMHO....
>> 
>> Bobby Whitehead
>> 
>> on the hunt... again.....
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 13:46:20 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 21:46:20 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE


From jason at multivintage.com  Sat Oct 13 14:01:40 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:01:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>

A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
C. Whoops.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 14:22:03 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 22:22:03 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002801cda980$69dc84a0$3d958de0$@com>

I had a look on the engine.

The 4th cylinder doesnt move anymore.

Doesnt look too good in this case.





Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
An: MadMarx
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....



A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.

B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.

C. Whoops.



Jason Ostrowski

Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 13 15:19:10 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 23:19:10 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <5079d9fb.e1cb440a.0c4a.69faSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<002801cda980$69dc84a0$3d958de0$@com>
	<5079d9fb.e1cb440a.0c4a.69faSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <003f01cda988$64925350$2db6f9f0$@com>

It seems the piston deck cracked off as I can push down the piston and the
crank rotation pushes it up again.
And I see a few drips of water....so maybe the head was smashed by that.
I'll see.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 23:15
An: MadMarx
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....

Ouch.

Tony

At 03:22 PM 10/13/2012, you wrote:
>I had a look on the engine.
>
>The 4th cylinder doesnt move anymore.
>
>Doesnt look too good in this case.
>
>
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Sat Oct 13 18:26:27 2012
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 20:26:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS  GT6 REBUILD
References: <744e.1e77db76.3da9dc2d@aol.com>,
	<000601cda8bd$a6ff58d0$f4fe0a70$@com>,
	<C81A1DDC-F13E-4DC1-B06D-8770F27D8C58@bnj.com>,
	<000701cda8c1$e6ae9cd0$b40bd670$@com>,
	<94B5687A-5DAC-4D95-A540-D9B9FB7D9941@charter.net>,
	<000b01cda8c2$969f3370$c3dd9a50$@com>,
	<EB2F5B25-2954-4417-8B0D-20817E432957@bnj.com>
	<BLU154-W49B52F4FBF75DE8CFAA17FBF8C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2735DF1371B448EBA3B33440456125D1@hpd530>

Just got back from the Glen; pretty nippy but nice.

re: transmissions: SVRA's  Jack Whoerle (sp) told us a couple years ago that 
because OD's were used in the day, we can use a 5 speed gearbox, but 5th has 
to be less than 1:1. Other organizations will tell you the same thing.

I've used the same gearbox for 6 years now with no problems. Yes, I run 
towards the back of the pack, but always have someone to dice with. And I'm 
having a great time. And not spending a fortune doing it.

The "Redhead" has had a total of 2 DNF's in the 6 years of driving it, and 
they were in the first 2 races I ever did. Not bad.
My $.02 worth.
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charles WATSON" <clw2000 at msn.com>
Cc: "FOT List" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS GT6 REBUILD


>I think I started all this muckracking, so a question to help me out based 
>on
> what I'm hearing:
>
> "Facts"
> - The GT6 trans was good when new, but really unreliable now after 40 
> years
> - Suitable alternatives are TR 3/4/6, T9 or various Toyota
> - I have a typical spec GT6 4-spd with overdrive
>
> Questions:
> - Am I better off swapping the base unit out during the build or giving it 
> a
> chance?
> - Is OD of any use?
> - From my read of regs, a five speed is allowed as an alternative when
> replacing a 4spd OD unit, as long as 5th gear is < a 1.1 ratio.  If so, 
> what's
> my best option?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck Watson
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Sat Oct 13 20:07:03 2012
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 02:07:03 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <20121013.220703.30330.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

Bob, SCCA road racing production car specs for TR3-6 allow the use of any 5
speed transmission, as a replacement for the stock tranny/OD.  So a T5 is fine
and that is what I have been using for about 10 years.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 14:54:49 -0400 (EDT)

> On 2012-10-12, at 2:04 PM, "john hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:
>
>> Interestingly enough, the SVRA G3 rules say that transmissions can be
>> replaced with 5 speed units; however, the TR3,4 6 etc. rules say that
stock
>> transmission should be used???? I have asked for them to consider the
>> issue....


Like the song says: "same as it ever was".

When you're scared of the competition, you torque the rules to your
advantage. ;-)

In SCCA club racing, you can use alternate transmissions and alternate
gear sets, but you cannot run overdrive on a non-standard gearbox. God
knows why... a T5 (or whatever) with a normal O/D 5th gear offers exactly
NO advantage other than reliability.

Oddly, in SCCA Solo - when the various "Street" classes were created
(about 10 or 12 years ago), they specifically exclude Triumphs. Gee, I
wonder why?

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
-----

____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 03:25:45 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 11:25:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8AD5E52C-D28B-4100-BF37-D50AC1AD9DB5@me.com>
	<7933D72A28114EAFA3FD28E8AA5F5697@hpd530>
	<005501cda895$88e03180$9aa09480$@rr.com>
	<000301cda93c$6154c610$23fe5230$@rr.com>
	<SNT402-EAS2556F5385830AC5D11DCEA7B2730@phx.gbl>
	<4FB79177-0802-45BF-B78E-72CFC0053125@gdhs.com>
	<001e01cda97b$6c82b7b0$45882710$@com>
	<CALCydYpgP5WapGmk-=Wgct9jv5fi7gtQK8dO+N-zXf4+Qq1zdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000d01cda9ed$e59bf900$b0d3eb00$@com>

A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.



The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
from the camera.

The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.



Cheers

Chris



Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
An: MadMarx
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....



A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.

B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.

C. Whoops.



Jason Ostrowski

Friendly Ghost Racing

On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Oct 14 10:45:58 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 12:45:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] REPAIR PANELS FOR TR4 FRONT FENDER/LOWER AVAILABLE LOW COST
 OFFERING
Message-ID: <8CF784285000B45-1798-43603@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT

Working with Keith Niehaus, Keith developed the tooling to produce subject
repair panels.

The first production run is complete.

Keith is a master craftsman in manufacturing engineering and car
restoration....he did Uncle Jack's "OLD BLUE", the restoration on my TR3A, and
some of the major steel fabrications for the AMBRO.

If you have a need for repair panels in this area of your TR4/TR250, contact
us.

Successful launch of this new product will likely lead to more panels, like
the 'dog leg' leading edge of the rear TR4 fender.

Also under development is the repair panels for the TR6.

This is the initial offering of these panels and will be sold at an
'introductory price'.

NOTE: If anyone is going to be at the VTR Convention, we plan to display them
there.

THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 14 11:56:34 2012
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 10:56:34 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Message-ID: <13182436.1350237394292.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.

~S


-----Original Message-----
>From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
>To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
>Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>
>
>The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
>from the camera.
>
>The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
>behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.
>
>
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 13:35:20 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 19:35:20 +0000
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Message-ID: <mailman.177.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Why?
6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach showed 7600 rpm as max.
Maybe that fatigued the piston?


------Originalnachricht------
Von: steve
An: MadMarx
Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Antwort an: steve
Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56

I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.

~S


-----Original Message-----
>From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
>Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
>To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
>Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>
>
>The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2 away
>from the camera.
>
>The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
>behind it looks as it would move 10 around which is not true.
>
>
>
>Cheers
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
>Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
>An: MadMarx
>Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
>Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
>
>
>
>A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
>
>B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
>
>C. Whoops.
>
>
>
>Jason Ostrowski
>
>Friendly Ghost Racing
>
>On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
>
>


Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone


From johnstydo at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 14:15:26 2012
From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:15:26 -0400
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
References: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>

I watched your video again and didn't see 7600 rpm on your on-screen tach.
Where did you get that?

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 3:35 PM, <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Why?
> 6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
> I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
> On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach
> showed 7600 rpm as max.
> Maybe that fatigued the piston?
>
>
> ------Originalnachricht------
> Von: steve
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Antwort an: steve
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56
>
> I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.
>
> ~S
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> >Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
> >To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
> >Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >
> >
> >The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2  away
> >from the camera.
> >
> >The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
> >behind it looks as it would move 10  around which is not true.
> >
> >
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
> >Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
> >An: MadMarx
> >Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
> >Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
> >
> >C. Whoops.
> >
> >
> >
> >Jason Ostrowski
> >
> >Friendly Ghost Racing
> >
> >On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
>
> Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Oct 14 14:19:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:19:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20121014193315.B0A1C2D0A1E@autox.team.net>
	<CAMJWJcF3w6tMGzOmDiGtdbgdr91MOjnZDCdZ3qO7Q09eCcEcjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.178.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Not this video with this little roundabout. Dijon was a week before. On the wet race it happened once and at race 3 another time but not that high.
But it also could be a crack that came from 4 years of use.
 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:15:26 
To: <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: steve<colordog.1 at earthlink.net>; Triumph 'Friends of Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....

I watched your video again and didn't see 7600 rpm on your on-screen tach.
Where did you get that?

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 3:35 PM, <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> Why?
> 6500 rpm should be no problem for a racing engine.
> I suspect the Dijon race as cause for the cracked piston.
> On the finish straight at 6200 rpm the OD suddenly disengaged. The tach
> showed 7600 rpm as max.
> Maybe that fatigued the piston?
>
>
> ------Originalnachricht------
> Von: steve
> An: MadMarx
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Antwort an: steve
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> Gesendet: 14. Okt. 2012 19:56
>
> I felt sorry for your car from the start of that video.
>
> ~S
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> >Sent: Oct 14, 2012 2:25 AM
> >To: 'Jason Ostrowski' <jason at multivintage.com>
> >Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >
> >
> >The passenger seat is a stock seat. The top of the seat is about 2  away
> >from the camera.
> >
> >The tubular frame seat is not moving very much but with this close camera
> >behind it looks as it would move 10  around which is not true.
> >
> >
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >Von: Jason Ostrowski [mailto:jason at multivintage.com]
> >Gesendet: Samstag, 13. Oktober 2012 22:02
> >An: MadMarx
> >Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph
> >Betreff: Re: [Fot] How to slaughter you engine....
> >
> >
> >
> >A. Shouldn't that passenger seat be bolted down.
> >
> >B. You really are "MAD"... That looks nuts.
> >
> >C. Whoops.
> >
> >
> >
> >Jason Ostrowski
> >
> >Friendly Ghost Racing
> >
> >On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 2:46 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >http://youtu.be/prN8uyiSntE
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com
> >_______________________________________________
> >fot at autox.team.net
> >
> >http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> >Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
>
> Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Oct 14 19:53:25 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:53:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
Message-ID: <mailman.179.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big 
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy 
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the 
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and 
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 19:56:51 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 18:56:51 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>

Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's another
thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have been dead for 40
years.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big beefy cast
thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy cast thing that was
there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy duty looking but does a much
better job of actually clamping onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out
of the lower big beefy one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Oct 14 20:42:49 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:42:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
	<611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.180.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Any clues on which borgeson stuff fits the splines on the steering 
rack?  Looks like the shaft would be 9/16 - the only one shown is 
9/16 26 spline, and the other end would need a custom shaft (I have a 
choice of 3/4" smooth bore or 3/4" 36 spline it appears).

Looks like the attachment is more of a "set screw" type of deal.  Is 
that better?

I'd love to update to something strong and reliable.

Thanks, Tony

At 08:56 PM 10/14/2012, Bill Babcock wrote:
>Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's 
>another thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have 
>been dead for 40 years.
>
>On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> > My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big 
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as 
> heavy duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping 
> onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy 
> one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
> >
> > So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
> >
> > Look forward to the advice.
> >
> > Tony Drews
> >
> > PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 21:39:46 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:39:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015024646.60F042C0CE0@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015019.530402C0CDE@autox.team.net>
	<611160C1-1E7A-4413-A4EC-7138669B44EF@bnj.com>
	<20121015024646.60F042C0CE0@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <51798D8D-D179-47D8-9C80-3C25508B6B8D@bnj.com>

I made an adapter from 3/4" Double D-section to the spline required for my
rack. Tony Garmey reworked the setup and made it prettier and more reliable,
but the adapter was just a sleeve that both bits got welded into with a good
quality TIG weld. I used their nice stainless needle bearing joints and billet
steel 3/4" pillow blocks.

Not hard to fabricate, hell for strong, no shake and no wobble. Gotta love all
that. Tony passed the shaft through the cowl roll bar -- I had it going over
that. In a production car I'd use one of their firewall flange bearings and
then a second block just before the first universal.

I drilled dimples into the shaft and ran the setscrews into the dimples before
locking everything down. Going nowhere. I've had my steering come apart on me
once. I can tell you for certain it's not fun.  Ain't happening again.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 7:42 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Any clues on which borgeson stuff fits the splines on the steering rack?
Looks like the shaft would be 9/16 - the only one shown is 9/16 26 spline, and
the other end would need a custom shaft (I have a choice of 3/4" smooth bore
or 3/4" 36 spline it appears).
>
> Looks like the attachment is more of a "set screw" type of deal.  Is that
better?
>
> I'd love to update to something strong and reliable.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 08:56 PM 10/14/2012, Bill Babcock wrote:
>> Don't. Switch the whole thing over to Borgeson stuff. IMHO that's another
thing I wouldn't leave in the hands of designers who have been dead for 40
years.
>>
>> On Oct 14, 2012, at 6:53 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
>>
>> > My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big beefy
cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy cast thing that
was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy duty looking but does a
much better job of actually clamping onto the shaft.  I've tightened the sh**
out of the lower big beefy one and it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd
like.
>> >
>> > So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>> >
>> > Look forward to the advice.
>> >
>> > Tony Drews
>> >
>> > PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > fot at autox.team.net
>> >
>> > http://www.fot-racing.com
>> >
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 14 22:25:32 2012
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:25:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>

Tony
Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was worried about the rubber ones.  
Mike

Sent from my Kindle Fire



_____________________________________________
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big 
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy 
cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy 
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the 
shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and 
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_____________________________________________

fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 22:29:46 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:29:46 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>

With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the front
straight at Sears Point.

The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Tony
> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was worried
about the rubber ones.
> Mike
>
> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _____________________________________________
>
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 07:34:10 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:34:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <20121013145101.788312D076F@autox.team.net>
References: <57840ff6.12319.13a5a864d0c.Webtop.46@charter.net>
	<20121013145101.788312D076F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001801cdaad9$c241f4e0$46c5dea0$@net>

Hey Tony maybe the Miata club started this (too get you guys out of the
way.just kidding)
Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2012 10:54 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph

Isn't it a bit early in the fall for the annual "what is vintage?" 
discussion?  Normally we wait until like December or January when everyone's
testy from the cold weather.  :)

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe:
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 07:49:32 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:49:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
	<A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>

A pair of TR6 U-JOINTS has our replacement parts for the TR4 and Ambro.

Note: I was side by side with an early Lotus 7, at the back straight at
Mosport, when his steering went adrift. Interesting watching this drama unfold
all of the way to the Jersey barriers. Scraping stop to some damage and no
injuries from about 100 mph.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 11:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the front
straight at Sears Point.

The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.

On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Tony
> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was
worried
about the rubber ones.
> Mike
>
> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>
>
>
> _____________________________________________
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _____________________________________________
>
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jsnook at wcnet.org  Mon Oct 15 08:29:29 2012
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:29:29 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3A Parts
Message-ID: <00a001cdaae1$7cc39b50$764ad1f0$@org>

Friends, 

There was some damage to my TR3A during the PVGP this past July.  Glen has
the car at his shop in Stuart, FL, where the repair/restoration has started.
So far there are a couple things that we know for sure are needed and any
help locating them would be greatly appreciated.

1.  Lower valance repair panel for the front nose, to include the tray.
Don't know if anyone is making a repair panel or if we have to go with a
used part.  Hopefully we do not have to purchase a whole nose.

2.  Steering box for a 2-piece steering column set-up.  New, used,
serviceable?  Any and all options considered.

Thanks in advance!

Vroom, vroom,

Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
419-344-0319 (Mobile)


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 15 09:04:15 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:04:15 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015012.C3ADA2C0CE4@autox.team.net>
	<771cd099-24c5-4a4b-aa4e-871d8a94e45d@email.android.com>
	<A0BD44BE-D158-4E02-8C10-ACDE859BA9E9@bnj.com>
	<8CF78F30A283970-1318-DE5@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D2519386-33E9-4E52-B252-818654455384@yahoo.com>

Mine has the old rag joints and safety wire.  Might want to change it out over
the winter.

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 15, 2012, at 7:49 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> A pair of TR6 U-JOINTS has our replacement parts for the TR4 and Ambro.
>
> Note: I was side by side with an early Lotus 7, at the back straight at
> Mosport, when his steering went adrift. Interesting watching this drama
unfold
> all of the way to the Jersey barriers. Scraping stop to some damage and no
> injuries from about 100 mph.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
> To: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
> Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 11:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> With good reason. Nothing like having those rag joints come apart--say when
> you're doing 100 plus and aiming straight at some ARMCO barriers in the
front
> straight at Sears Point.
>
> The shaft size for TRs is pretty small too.
>
> On Oct 14, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Tony
>> Look at Pegasus part number 1492-32.  I put those on my car.   I was
> worried
> about the rubber ones.
>> Mike
>>
>> Sent from my Kindle Fire
>>
>>
>>
>> _____________________________________________
>> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
>> Sent: Sun Oct 14 18:53:25 PDT 2012
>> To: fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>>
>>
>> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
>> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
>> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
>> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
>> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
>> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>>
>> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>>
>> Look forward to the advice.
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
>> _____________________________________________
>>
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 11:14:39 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:14:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] OSTHOFF at ROAD AMERICA - HOST HOTEL KASTNER CUP 2013 5-8
 SEPTEMBER 2013
Message-ID: <8CF790FB14BD640-1318-2775@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>

 LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS AT LESS THAN HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS PRICES.

Bottom line is that cost per night could be less than $100 per couple or less
than $50 per person.

This assume you select a 2 bedroom/2 bathroom suite and team up with another
couple or friends.

This can include a living room, kitchen, and other amenities.

The VSCDA also has activities at the OSTHOFF, including a CAR SHOW.

Kas and Peg will reside at the OSTHOFF.

RESPONSES will help me estimate how many rooms to have set aside in the
contract. I will likely lowball the number of suites set aside to avoid a 20%
liability. The OSTHOFF tends to be in fair demand during this weekend. Thus it
is not too soon to plan and reserve.

Reservation Code will be FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH

The OSTHOFF is on the LAKE, next to historic SIEBKENS, and only about 2 miles
from ROAD AMERICA.

OSTHOFF.COM







Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From igofaster at att.net  Mon Oct 15 11:36:43 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:36:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
Message-ID: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Reality is , we are trying to make these cars do what they were never  intended 
to do... that little red line on the tach of your Triumph was a  maximum mark. 
It was the limit you could hit every once in awhile. It's  not like it was meant 
for these engines to run 7000 rpm for long  durations.
So... with that being the obvious, it doesn't seem to  be a stretch for vintage 
racers to noodle with what could be deemed  more reliable or robust... in the 
name of trying to make these cars do  what they were never intended to do... 
through history of the cars the  guys and gals and teams that were trying to 
make them faster and safer  (sometimes) pushed the envelope of a stock car...  
anybody wants to  argue most vintage racers are stock cars simply opens on the 
observation  of ....  bull****....
Bobby


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 12:24:13 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 14:24:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MRMOxftO5LbMpMK+HKfDAA2X60z76MFL4QPKKyr_4cAA@mail.gmail.com>

well Bobby on another subject...at VIR this past week the "Texas" crowd
showed up in force with about 10 or more racers, they had a company put up
a canopy that was at least 100 by 50 feet and the group surrounded it like
"cowboys"...all backed up to the canopy, they had a great gruop of people
and said that they knew you. We laughed that the" Texas crowd" does it
bigger...and it was...the biggest canopy that I have ever seen ! Great
group of racers and more than hospitable...tried to keep me there drinking
and eating. Keep your chin up and your foot on the pedal...take care.

rob deanes
TR Racer

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 1:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> Reality is , we are trying to make these cars do what they were never
>  intended
> to do... that little red line on the tach of your Triumph was a  maximum
> mark.
> It was the limit you could hit every once in awhile. It's  not like it was
> meant
> for these engines to run 7000 rpm for long  durations.
> So... with that being the obvious, it doesn't seem to  be a stretch for
> vintage
> racers to noodle with what could be deemed  more reliable or robust... in
> the
> name of trying to make these cars do  what they were never intended to
> do...
> through history of the cars the  guys and gals and teams that were trying
> to
> make them faster and safer  (sometimes) pushed the envelope of a stock
> car...
> anybody wants to  argue most vintage racers are stock cars simply opens on
> the
> observation  of ....  bull****....
> Bobby
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Oct 15 12:33:21 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:33:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:
"it doesn't seem to be a stretch for vintage
racers to noodle with what could be deemed more reliable or robust... in the
name of trying to make these cars do what they were never intended to do.."

Careful though Bobby,
Everyone has to be realistic and fair to the spirit of competition.
Unlimited classes and different opportunities exist in SCCA and other Club
Racing sanctioning bodies. These more modern production classes still have
places our cars with more radical "safety and speed" developments.
Pass the point of no return and that is where you should end up.
Just because Willwood makes a brake kit that fits on your GT6 doesn't mean
that you should be able to use it in vintage.
We all know this is a slippery slope.
We must all respect the fact that some cars have be running very
successfully for decades in a class legal configuration. It is also not
fair to push perfectly adequate race cars to the back of the grid just
because some better equipment is now available.
The spirit of Vintage must still hold weight and be honored as important.
No body will be mad at you if you want to race on slick tires or tell you
you can't put that car on a tube frame. But I'm glad that rules exist for
vintage that won't let you go to far.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Oct 15 15:14:24 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:14:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1350322603.53898.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<CALCydYo_hftAOEoNC035zBTtz2FdYmjZV+ozUH0bLhHSE9a2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5419523E5DFD9327C5D6F6DF710@phx.gbl>

The tach redline is a RECOMMENDATION.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:33:21 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: igofaster at att.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] I know it's not winter topic YET
>
> On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
wrote:
> "it doesn't seem to be a stretch for vintage
> racers to noodle with what could be deemed more reliable or robust... in
the
> name of trying to make these cars do what they were never intended to do.."
>
> Careful though Bobby,
> Everyone has to be realistic and fair to the spirit of competition.
> Unlimited classes and different opportunities exist in SCCA and other Club
> Racing sanctioning bodies. These more modern production classes still have
> places our cars with more radical "safety and speed" developments.
> Pass the point of no return and that is where you should end up.
> Just because Willwood makes a brake kit that fits on your GT6 doesn't mean
> that you should be able to use it in vintage.
> We all know this is a slippery slope.
> We must all respect the fact that some cars have be running very
> successfully for decades in a class legal configuration. It is also not
> fair to push perfectly adequate race cars to the back of the grid just
> because some better equipment is now available.
> The spirit of Vintage must still hold weight and be honored as important.
> No body will be mad at you if you want to race on slick tires or tell you
> you can't put that car on a tube frame. But I'm glad that rules exist for
> vintage that won't let you go to far.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Mon Oct 15 16:48:35 2012
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 16:48:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>
References: <1350055387.86279.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<507898B9.7060003@cfl.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-W25B06D0C79D822BDCD453190710@phx.gbl>

Your engine is only one rebuild behind the transmission.  Is a Toyota engine
in your future?   Cheers, Henry Morrison

> amen to that
>
>
>
> On 10/12/12 11:23 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> > I think if you want to race these cars you have to love these cars. And,
when
> > you mix emotion with the costs, you really have to love the opportunity to
be at
> > speed in these cars.
> > The elixir that runs through your soul when the stars aline and you've
really
> > hit a peak in matching the driving experience and the connection between
you and
> > your car is toxic.
> > Modified in the spirit of vintage racing should be the thought.
> > Safety should be the #1 modification the cars have leeway with as far as
> > sanctioning rules.
> > Reliability modifications should be the #2 modification, modern gearboxes
for
> > example.
> > Performance should be the last modification that pushes the thought of
variance
> > to vintage spirit.
> >
> > I think all of us want to have fun with the cars and as I begin my third
rebuild
> > in 3 years I think I have a grasp of what it takes to try to run
vintage...
> > Personally I had my build booklet upfront when I joined CVAR here in
Texas. The
> > car I purchased was built with a Toyota T50 gearbox and that was the way
I
> > presented it. CVAR 'allowed' me to run 2-3 events with the idea I would
put a
> > Triumph gearbox in the car. I had what I think most of us agree, Quantum
> > Mechanics build me a gearbox which lasted about 2 weekends... I was
warrantied
> > with Quantum which I thought was awesome another gearbox with a modified J
type
> > overdrive which also lasted about 4 events... warrantied again by Quantum
with
> > exchange I had a TR6 gearbox built with close ratio gear set from
England... in
> > the mean time I put the T50 back in the car and along with about $4000 in
> > receipts went back to CVAR and said,,, you know,,, I tried to run like
you
> > wanted me to but if you want to to run consistently as a customer, I'm
going to
> > run the T50.... no problem.
> > I know the MG guys are having a tough time with 50 year old gearboxes and
their
> > sources gone... SOMETHING is going to have to change if these cars are
going to
> > continue to run.
> > Personally, I don't see anything wrong with slotted brakes, four caliper
> > pistons, roll cages, Hans devices, and other safety or reliability
efforts...
> > the racing organizations are businesses at the end of the day... those who
are
> > not flexible in business willing to modify will not survive in any
business
> > format... IMHO....
> >
> > Bobby Whitehead
> >
> > on the hunt... again.....
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dos_gusanos at msn.com


From malaboge at aol.com  Mon Oct 15 18:48:36 2012
From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:48:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.  The
units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by the
units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a lot
of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_______________________________________________


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 15 19:38:59 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:38:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
	<8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.181.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXcTElpR: Permission denied


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 15 19:47:41 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 20:47:41 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
Message-ID: <mailman.182.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Let's try this again in plain text:
So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on 
one of them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it 
tight on the steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even 
relieved some additional metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel 
to help this.  I can slide the shaft in and out of the u-joint 
slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll break it.  This makes 
me very nervous.

It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline 
on both ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set 
screw.  If I drill dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them 
in place.  I've got one coming.

The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct 
styles.  One doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can 
actually pinch the darn thing together and make it nice and 
tight.  Ideally I would find another one of those, but the current 
manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that pattern.

I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the 
problem I have.

Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that 
there are more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one 
is 9*16" x 36 spline?

Thanks, Tony

At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt 
in.  The units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the 
"crummy scale" by the units with eight conical "faucet washers" 
holding it all together.  I do a lot of tech for the local clubs and 
can't even count all of the bad, torn or extremely loose joints I've 
found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed on the track until 
the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer 
setups automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's 
really a "safety upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard 
for brakes, engines, trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Oct 15 20:32:57 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 19:32:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121016014429.0025A2C0D16@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1350354777.31994.YahooMailClassic@web181402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tony: This terrible thought of placing MGB bits on a TR4 is true! Moss Motors
P/N 263-090 does fit the TR shaft. They also have a nice Hardy-Spicer
replacement for the OE  under part number 263-265. I built a R&P steering
conversion to a TR3 using said 263-090 P/N. Would you like me to check my
inventory of MGB steering columns tomorrow to see if I have one for you?
-Ed- 

--- On Mon, 10/15/12, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:


From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, October 15, 2012, 8:47 PM


Let's try this again in plain text:
So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on one of
them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it tight on the
steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even relieved some additional
metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel to help this.  I can slide the
shaft in and out of the u-joint slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll
break it.  This makes me very nervous.

It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline on both
ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set screw.  If I drill
dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them in place.  I've got one
coming.

The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct styles.  One
doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can actually pinch the
darn thing together and make it nice and tight.  Ideally I would find another
one of those, but the current manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that
pattern.

I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the problem I
have.

Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that there are
more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one is 9*16" x 36
spline?

Thanks, Tony

At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.  The
units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by the
units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a lot
of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.

All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!

Still tryin to keep it vintage...
Nick in Norcal
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4


My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.

So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?

Look forward to the advice.

Tony Drews

PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 22:05:09 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:05:09 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121015015027.C79A52C0D08@autox.team.net>
	<8CF794F1C2EBD57-148C-591B@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <99F93C4A-8CC5-4AFF-A91D-0D77C9A25DB5@bnj.com>

Seiously guys, the TR6 joints are crap too. I used them on my street TR3 rack
and pinion conversion, but they're not much compared to the modern stuff. It's
not a competitive advantage, just pure safety. SAE considers 5/8" shafts to be
marginal and 3/4" to be appropriate. For the same price of the original stuff
you can get 3/4" double d with hefty universals that have needle bearings
twice the size of the TR6 stuff. Your choice, your butt.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:48 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The
> units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the
> units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot
> of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
> extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't
allowed
> on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
> automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
> upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
> trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 22:13:07 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:13:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <20121016014431.C264D2C6CD2@autox.team.net>
References: <20121016014431.C264D2C6CD2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <206F65FE-52BA-49A5-B4C0-AFB1FC78F575@bnj.com>

The borgeson joints actually have two set screws. The shaft they are supposed
to screw into is hollow. You drill a hole through one side of the hollow shaft
and run the screw through to the other side. the second set screw goes into a
dimple you drill. Both set screws are locked with a locknut. This is a pretty
positive locking arrangement. Kind of what you might want your steering to
use.

the TR6 joints are designed for splined shafts with a flat ground into them.
You pinch the housing onto the spline, but it's really the bolt passing by the
flat that locks the assembly in. And yes, they are kind of cludgy compared to
modern practice. They don't lock down well and there's some wiggle in the
resulting system from the loose fit on the splines. It took quite a bit of
grinding and some good, hard flange bolts the actually get it all locked down
for my street car. If it wiggles a tiny bit I'm tossing it all on top of my
pile of lucas distributors and replacing it with Borgeson stuff--which works
flawlessly.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 6:47 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Let's try this again in plain text:
> So here's the issue - I'm running TR-6 U joints.  But the housing on one of
them is so beefy that the pinch bolt won't actually pinch it tight on the
steering shaft.  When I rebuilt it last time, I even relieved some additional
metal out of the "slot" with a cutoff wheel to help this.  I can slide the
shaft in and out of the u-joint slightly.  If I tighten the bolt any more I'll
break it.  This makes me very nervous.
>
> It appears that there is a Borgeson u-joint that's 9/16" - 36 spline on both
ends but rather than a pinch bolt it uses a large set screw.  If I drill
dimples into the pieces it will firmly hold them in place.  I've got one
coming.
>
> The odd thing is that of the TR-6 u-joints I have two distinct styles.  One
doesn't have as beefy a pinch area so the pinch bolt can actually pinch the
darn thing together and make it nice and tight.  Ideally I would find another
one of those, but the current manufacturing doesn't seem to follow that
pattern.
>
> I agree that the rag joints aren't a great idea - but that's not the problem
I have.
>
> Someone mentioned using an MBG u-joint (heresy!) - it appears that there are
more than one which will fit an MGB - anyone know which one is 9*16" x 36
spline?
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 07:48 PM 10/15/2012, malaboge at aol.com wrote:
>
> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't allowed
on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 22:40:48 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 22:40:48 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
In-Reply-To: <99F93C4A-8CC5-4AFF-A91D-0D77C9A25DB5@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.183.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

That MGB U-joint looks pretty nifty but looks heavy. Are they available in
titanium ?
jg

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 10:05 PM
To: malaboge at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4

Seiously guys, the TR6 joints are crap too. I used them on my street TR3
rack
and pinion conversion, but they're not much compared to the modern stuff.
It's
not a competitive advantage, just pure safety. SAE considers 5/8" shafts to
be
marginal and 3/4" to be appropriate. For the same price of the original
stuff
you can get 3/4" double d with hefty universals that have needle bearings
twice the size of the TR6 stuff. Your choice, your butt.

On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:48 PM, malaboge at aol.com wrote:

> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The
> units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the
> units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together.  I do a
lot
> of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
> extremely loose joints I've found.  Some were so bad the cars weren't
allowed
> on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
> automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
> upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
> trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it.  The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before.  The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft.  I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So...  Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Oct 16 10:53:56 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 12:53:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TRANSPORT FOR TRIUMPH RACERS 2013 KASTNER CUP ROAD AMERICA
Message-ID: <8CF79D5F6BCEDBD-EDC-327E@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT,

If anyone has visibility to low cost transporters PLEASE publish to this list
and the FOT WEBSITE.

We have a need to transport cars from SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA, perhaps the PACIFIC
NORTHWEST, and other locations in NORTH AMERICA.  For starters, we have four
cars in SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA that need to get to Road America next September.

Thank you very much!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Tue Oct 16 17:30:26 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:30:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
Message-ID: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>

Well, miracles never cease!
Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
restoration process...
Today we fired up the ole hound.

My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
met its symbolic (near) completion today.
Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.

Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
And raced it until 1985.
Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
at the track had taken its toll.
The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
foul-mouthed swearing.
To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
its stock appearance.
After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
started.
I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
fired up.
Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
withstand a 27 year hibernation.
He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
basement.
I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
flawless "showroom stock" trim..
I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
have to use my wallet to finish it..
Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
looking.
Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.

Jason Ostrowski
GT6 Nut head.


From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Oct 16 17:39:51 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 17:39:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>

Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.


From kkjjk at aol.com  Tue Oct 16 17:50:23 2012
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 19:50:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>

agreed



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 16, 2012 7:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy


Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com


From alfetta95 at optonline.net  Tue Oct 16 18:07:14 2012
From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:07:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>

Well done! And well written!  Congrats!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
> 
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
> 
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
> 
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 16 18:23:36 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 18:23:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<EA5AF58F-6069-44F5-8B3A-90709EE38B8F@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <F5BF5942-A383-4037-A4F1-142BBAE54B04@yahoo.com>

Jason

Do you have any pictures you can post?  I am sure we would all love to see it!
I just started a restoration on a TR4, and although I don't have the history
you have, I am looking forward to the end result!

Thx

Ty

Tyler Thompson l National Account Executive - Public Safety Sector
esri | One International Court | Broomfield, CO 80021
Phone: 303.449-7779 ext. 8260, cell: 719.510-1649 |
E-mail: tyler_thompson at esri.com


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 16, 2012, at 6:07 PM, Todd Redmond <alfetta95 at optonline.net> wrote:

> Well done! And well written!  Congrats!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
wrote:
>
>> Well, miracles never cease!
>> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
>> restoration process...
>> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>>
>> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
>> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
>> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this
undying
>> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
>> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>>
>> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
>> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
>> And raced it until 1985.
>> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
>> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
>> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
>> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
>> at the track had taken its toll.
>> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
>> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
>> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
>> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
>> foul-mouthed swearing.
>> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
>> its stock appearance.
>> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get
it
>> started.
>> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
>> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
>> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
>> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
>> fired up.
>> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
>> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
>> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
>> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
>> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
>> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
>> basement.
>> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
>> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
>> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
>> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
>> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
>> have to use my wallet to finish it..
>> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
>> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
>> looking.
>> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
>> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>>
>> Jason Ostrowski
>> GT6 Nut head.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Oct 16 18:25:53 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:25:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>

Jason, it's "Opossum".  Congratulations!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 18:39:38 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:39:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1988AFDD4DD857C131A0A9EB2770@phx.gbl>

That is AWESOME!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-16, at 7:30 PM, "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From clw2000 at msn.com  Tue Oct 16 18:44:34 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:44:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU402-EAS3968D3FAA4C59B108747AC6BF770@phx.gbl>

Best thing I've read in a while. Congrats Jason.  Send pics.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>
wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
>
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
>
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts
easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Tue Oct 16 19:19:24 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 01:19:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<76B664CD-1824-4024-A26E-C5347508E40B@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.184.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

John, they are "SCARY"
Thanks.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:25:53 
To: Jason Ostrowski<jason at multivintage.com>
Cc: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy

Jason, it's "Opossum".  Congratulations!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:

> Well, miracles never cease!
> Decommissioned from racing in 1985, and after a near decade long
> restoration process...
> Today we fired up the ole hound.
> 
> My dad's "you could have bought a Ferrari for the same amount" restoration
> met its symbolic (near) completion today.
> Wow... This is the car that started everything for me; kindled this undying
> affection for Triumph masochism, made me a GT6 fiend, and sent me on this
> path of racing these cars of all too unforgotten dreams.
> 
> Yep, my pop bought it off the showroom floor in 1968.
> Drove it regularly till he started racing it in the early 1970's.
> And raced it until 1985.
> Then it sat around... first for a few years in the garage. Then for a
> couple decades standing on its firewall in the shed; "The Kingdom of the
> Possum's"...Lots and lots of creepy hissing Possums came out of that shed.
> Anyway, It was always a nice car. But the years in the shed and the years
> at the track had taken its toll.
> The car was completely 100% restored bolt by bolt, my dad's way.
> Ultimately, his work ends in perfection... The hard way.
> Usually, it would be far easier and much cheaper, had it been done by
> anyone with tact; not to mention with much less bickering and
> foul-mouthed swearing.
> To his credit, the car is beautiful. Everything is perfect and original in
> its stock appearance.
> After a couple weeks of final tweaks to get it it ready, we couldn't get it
> started.
> I found some stuff that was way wrong over the past few nights.
> This was wrong, that didn't match, this leaks... etc.
> After a carb rebuild and some messing around with a couple
> different distributors, the whole project came into focus today when it
> fired up.
> Unfortunately, the nice new muffler makes it sound kind of wimpy, as I was
> standing there adjusting the carbs I could barely hear the exhaust note
> over the air buzz of that dull-yellow, front facing blast fan.
> Turns out, to my surprise, a motor that is moth-balled properly can
> withstand a 27 year hibernation.
> He took the original motor out when he started racing and put in the
> basement.
> I didn't believe that that old cat would even start.
> But sure enough, the car is alive after a 27 year pause.
> So, this car now looks brand new (it really does) and is presented in it's
> flawless "showroom stock" trim..
> I'm pretty excited to have this car finally done and glad that I didn't
> have to use my wallet to finish it..
> Comparatively, in its original "skinny" showroom condition, it hearkens
> back to an earlier competition style (kind of wussy) but is quite good
> looking.
> Most importantly it is holding a steady "60" oil pressure and starts easily.
> Today is a, long awaited, good day for Friendly Ghost Racing.
> 
> Jason Ostrowski
> GT6 Nut head.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sat Oct 13 13:21:39 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:21:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
Message-ID: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>

That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into  "B"
 
 
In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
igofaster at att.net writes:

sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" ....  broke....

Bobby


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 13 13:43:01 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 15:43:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
References: <D26321C3-3641-408D-B3C9-572605486A20@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <9D8D6DE1-C5DC-41A9-B5FB-BED444E4A654@gdhs.com>

For every ones info
Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
> Date: October 13, 2012 3:42:03 PM EDT
> To: "Snowdonracing at aol.com" <Snowdonracing at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: Vintage Production Car Transmissions
>
> Thanks Ray that just about clears up my question. So, "same number of
gears". Would my 4 speed with OD mean I could replace with a 5 speed & a
weight. Penalty?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 12, 2012, at 9:39 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>
>> By special rules; do you mean the Make and Model Regs for the TR3 ??
>> The way I have understood these rules is that the Make and Model Regs. show
the original specs and equipment for that particular car.  The Supplemental
Regs for the Group apply to all cars (aka all Make and Models) that are in
that Group.  So, in your case, the Make and Model Regs for the TR3 show the
original trans (4 speed) with an optional overdrive.  The Group 3
Supplementals say that you can replace that original trans with another
Production Based unit, same # of gears, but with a weight penalty.
>>
>> In other words, the Make and Models set the BASICS, including some do's and
don'ts at the bottom.
>> The Group Supplementals tell us what we can do over and above those Make
and Model Basics.
>> Hope this helps.
>> Ray
>>
>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 8:46:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>> Thanks Ray. I know that is what the  G3 rules say; but the special rules
for TR3's states original transmissions. So the rules say one thing under G3
and another under TR3-4.  How are we to know which one is correct?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 12, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Snowdonracing at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hi John,
>>>
>>>     Thanks for the note and sorry you are having issues.  There is a
substitution rule in the Group 3 Supplementals already.  It states:
>>> "Standard gearbox may be replaced with an alternate PRODUCTION BASED
GEARBOX of the same number of forward speeds.  ADD 75LBS. TO OFFICIAL WEIGHT.
When replacing a 4-speed w/overdrive unit with a 5-speed, the 5th gear must be
lower numerically than 1 : 1."
>>> If a non-standard gearbox is being used, it must be declared on the RCIS
sheet for the vehicle.
>>> Your Triumph, TR3, lists a 4-speed with Laycock overdrive optional.  That
means 5 forward speeds.
>>> So, the rules are already there.  Cars that were never equipped with
overdrive, or as an option, must continue to keep their original number of
forward speeds.
>>> The number of forward speeds is something that we will be checking on for
2013 as we step up on rules enforcement.
>>> I hope this answers your questions.
>>> Ray
>>>
>>> In a message dated 10/12/2012 1:15:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:
>>> Ray:
>>>     As our Triumphs, MGs, Morgans, Elvas etc. get even older than they
>>> already are, a number of us are having transmission problems with the
>>> original gear boxes which are causing frequent costly repairs and I
>>> understand that MGs are also having source problems as well.  While I
>>> understand the spirit of the rules and try to keep my TR within them,
>>> reliability and the cost of fixing old "stuff" is becoming a problem
which
>>> may well keep some of us from participating in as many events as we might
>>> otherwise like.  For instance I just spent $730 to go through my TR box
and
>>> after the Gold Cup, it feels like it needs it again.  It may well be time
to
>>> consider, in the interest of safety and reliability, allowing these cars
to
>>> use the readily available GM and Toyota 5 speed transmission conversions.
I
>>> note also, that 4 speeds vs. 5 speeds is not a problem in as much as
these
>>> old English cars had overdrive units available which, like my car, give
you
>>> an effective 5 speed unit.
>>>     I would also note that there are already some cars using these
>>> conversions and there should be a "level playing field" approach
considered
>>> as well.  Please give some thought to this with your Tech staff .  I look
>>> forward to your response....
>>>
>>> John H. Hasty  SVRA # 8326
>>> Attorney At Law
>>> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>>> 719 East Boulevard
>>> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>>> Tele: (704) 372-5600
>>> Fax: (704) 372-4601
>>> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>>> www.gdhs.com
>>>
>>> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
is
>>> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information
that
>>> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
>>> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
>>> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
>>> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
message
>>> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>>>
>>> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
>>> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
otherwise,
>>> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any
attachments)
>>> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes
of
>>> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
>>> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
>>> addressed herein.


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 21:37:03 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:37:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>
References: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>

LMAO

Last outing of the year, 2nd last session.  Bolt backed out of roto flex made
contact with inner hub/vert link, ruined axle, broke the diff and probably
finished the already weak transmission.  Good thing I have all the spare parts
on hand and Im a GT6 nut.   Along with some planned engine improvements I'll
be busy in the garage all winter doing the drive train ars to tea kettle....


Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-16, at 11:07 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

> That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into  "B"
>
>
> In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> igofaster at att.net writes:
>
> sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" ....  broke....
>
> Bobby
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From clw2000 at msn.com  Wed Oct 17 05:10:40 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 07:10:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Racing a Triumph     TRANSMISSIONS
In-Reply-To: <SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>
References: <cda0.777dce76.3dab1943@aol.com>,
	<SNT401-EAS265D94E1688A53709D4E21EB2770@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W61CCA077121DB1E2F471A9BF770@phx.gbl>

Glad it wasn't your neck that made contact!  If you're running the stock donut
system, now is the opportunity to upgrade that roto system to something
race-worthy!  Lot's of info in the FOT archives for this fix.

Thanks,

Chuck Watson










> From: vangoughv at hotmail.com
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 23:37:03 -0400
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com
> CC: ponobill at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing a Triumph TRANSMISSIONS
>
> LMAO
>
> Last outing of the year, 2nd last session. Bolt backed out of roto flex
made
> contact with inner hub/vert link, ruined axle, broke the diff and probably
> finished the already weak transmission. Good thing I have all the spare
parts
> on hand and Im a GT6 nut. Along with some planned engine improvements I'll
> be busy in the garage all winter doing the drive train ars to tea
kettle....
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-10-16, at 11:07 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:
>
> > That seems to be the primary purpose of racing, to shift us all into "B"
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/13/2012 12:18:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > igofaster at att.net writes:
> >
> > sometimes mine shifts itself into "B" .... broke....
> >
> > Bobby
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 19:16:13 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:16:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wheel arches
Message-ID: <D70FCCD9-DF98-4DAF-A6DD-B2DD26C55898@aol.com>

If my bad memory serves me correctly there was a member looking for spitfire
wheel arches.   I have a donor.  Just pay shipping.
Contact me off list.


From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 18 09:46:59 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 08:46:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy
In-Reply-To: <8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
References: <CALCydYpx+b4ALYQjOdGnJA9UMmQJDyv33qYFNeyZ4sU9jkCaUg@mail.gmail.com>
	<507DF047.5030801@bradakis.com>
	<8CF7A10249E1E81-1830-69AF@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1350575219.64087.YahooMailRC@web182202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

PIX for the KIDS !

Bobby




________________________________
From: "kkjjk at aol.com" <kkjjk at aol.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, October 16, 2012 7:00:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy

agreed



-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 16, 2012 7:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Original GT6 starts after 27 year dormancy


Wow.  Just wow.

mjb.


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Oct 18 13:25:21 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 15:25:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT 2013 KASTNER CUP SPONSORS to date TRUE FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH!
Message-ID: <8CF7B7D72BB84EA-1F58-199B@webmail-m067.sysops.aol.com>

 YES.....WE HAVE "SPONSORS".

THE HONOR ROLL

CHRIS BOCK
TODD REDMOND
BOB LANG
TONY SCHEACH
JEFF SNOOK
DAVE HOGYE
THE KAHLERS
BOB DAVIS
BOB BOWNES
CHARLES WATSON
BOB KRAMER
BOBBY WHITEHEAD
BILL DENTINGER
CLIVE AVERILL
WARREN APLIN
JOHN FRIDIRICI

The FOT thanks you......................PRETTY AMAZING for a non-organization
with no dues.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 21:23:31 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 21:23:31 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
Message-ID: <mailman.185.1638252573.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the 

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with

 

Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/

 

jim g


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Fri Oct 19 22:03:11 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 23:03:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032947.C18CA2C0BF7@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032947.C18CA2C0BF7@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000901cdae77$d24a7a50$76df6ef0$@com>

Fantastic pictures, thanks!!!  It looks like the exhaust charge would go up
that wall and around and out.  In other words it didn't look all that bad to
my "untrained" eye.  The photos really show the large amount cooling around
the exhaust valve guide and the small amount around the intake guide.  They
also show the benefits of cutting off the guides so they don't stick into
the ports.  Thanks again,

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Gray
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:24 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the 

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with

 

Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/

 

jim g
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Oct 19 22:18:07 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 21:18:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032936.D13A12D0717@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032936.D13A12D0717@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake is
not that much better.
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the
>
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
>
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
>
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
> with
>
>
>
> Pix are on photobucket
>
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
>
>
>
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 00:04:17 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 00:04:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.186.1638252574.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the charge
is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss. 
The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make some
of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

jg


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
To: Jim Gray
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
is not that much better. 
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the 
> 
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
> 
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
> 
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
experiment
> with
> 
> 
> 
> Pix are on photobucket
> 
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
> 
> 
> 
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 06:43:43 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:43:43 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020061739.B4A592D075A@autox.team.net>
References: <1A8C4432-5F7F-4046-91B8-A92E5156AF35@bnj.com>,
	<20121020061739.B4A592D075A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W19094B8F6649F97745AAD9BA740@phx.gbl>

Thanks for posting the picts Jim. FWIW, I purchased David Vizard's Theory and
Practice of Cylinder Head Modification a long time ago. He addresses the TR3/4
head pretty well in the book. On the subject of cutting the valve guides so
they don't project into the flow path, this seems like such a good idea, and
the factory could have saved a penny or so by making them shorter to start
with it makes me wonder why they did not do that from the beginning? This is
timely discussion as I am getting ready to butcher, er I mean modify a TR4
head. :)


From tlizzard at msn.com  Sat Oct 20 07:54:12 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 09:54:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020061728.C7F162D0753@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020061728.C7F162D0753@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds63F13EAA141E4A1A99B48C3740@phx.gbl>

And to think that this is the "improved" head compared to the original TR2/TR3
design...


Terry Stetler
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Jim Gray<mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
  To: 'Bill Babcock'<mailto:ponobill at gmail.com>
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 2:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )


  The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the
charge
  is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
  benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss.
  The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
  valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
  I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make
some
  of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

  jg


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
  Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
  To: Jim Gray
  Cc: fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

  Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
  is not that much better.
  On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray"
<toodamnfunky at comcast.net<mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net>> wrote:

  > FoT,
  > I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
  > guides. It sure is a different view of the
  >
  > TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around
the
  > back of the valve guide boss
  >
  > and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just
outside
  > the valve seat.
  >
  > We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
  experiment
  > with
  >
  >
  >
  > Pix are on photobucket
  >
  >
http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/<http://s698.
photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/>
  >
  >
  >
  > jim g
  > _______________________________________________
  > fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
  >
  > http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>
  >
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com<http://autox.team.net
/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com>
  _______________________________________________
  fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

  http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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  Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com<http://autox.team.
net/mailman/options/fot/tlizzard at msn.com>


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 20 08:03:14 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 16:03:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <20121020032924.EA4032D074A@autox.team.net>
References: <20121020032924.EA4032D074A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000101cdaecb$a73e3b40$f5bab1c0$@com>

Interesting how thin the head walls are.

Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Jim Gray
Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 05:24
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

FoT,
I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
guides. It sure is a different view of the

TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
back of the valve guide boss

and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
the valve seat.

We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to experiment
with



Pix are on photobucket

http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/



jim g
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Oct 20 08:36:42 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:36:42 -0600
Subject: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcF92O2PX9ytJSnGRW_D=f_xCP=_JaWZNd-veNy0Y-=5eg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.187.1638252574.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm definitely going to be looking at valve seats. They play a really big
roll in the overall flow.

As far as valve guides go we will do some testing with and without. More
importantly though

I want to try a fuel shear ramp before and after the valve / guides to
smooth turbulence.

I want to get maximum velocity first.

jim

 

 

  _____  

From: John Styduhar [mailto:johnstydo at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 6:30 AM
To: Jim Gray
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

 

Great work Jim.  Do you have any plans to test modifications other than port
design, like valve seat profile and whether or not grinding of the exposed
valve guides has any effect on flow?  

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 2:04 AM, Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

The exhaust doesn't have to be as efficient as the intake because the charge
is under pressure on the way out but that square 90 degree turn could
benefit from a fillet weld right in the corner behind the valve guide boss.
The intake isn't bad really except it's a pretty tight curve coming off the
valve seat. That curve will get flattened out.
I'll be doing some silicone casts of the stock ports and then I'll make some
of my current ported head. We'll start in on the flowbench next month.

jg



-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock [mailto:ponobill at gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:18 PM
To: Jim Gray
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] I cut intake & exhaust port sections today ( tr4 )

Yeah, the exhaust port looks like it was cast using plumbing parts. Intake
is not that much better.
On Oct 19, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> FoT,
> I cut some TR4 port sections today, right down the middle of the valve
> guides. It sure is a different view of the
>
> TR4 ports. The exhaust port is a mess. I'm going to try welding around the
> back of the valve guide boss
>
> and try to smooth out that wall the exhaust charge slams into just outside
> the valve seat.
>
> We'll find out on the flow bench, I have three more cylinders to
experiment
> with
>
>
>
> Pix are on photobucket
>
> http://s698.photobucket.com/albums/vv341/TR4jim/Cylinder%20head/
>
>
>
> jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From sjanzen at me.com  Sat Oct 20 09:27:33 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:27:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
Message-ID: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>

The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.  

Sent from my mobile device 


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 09:31:21 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 10:31:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <83995CA5-2B32-4B91-9ADA-41C21D9ED91E@gmail.com>

I'm happy with the Mallory Unilite on the TR engine in our Morgan (and in our
non-TR engined Morgan also).

Duncan

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From triosan at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 09:38:45 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 08:38:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAyJqu9QT_MFg=DMjiEA=N3BtoiA6gS_JHKR2Jb8YqJhg@mail.gmail.com>

Pertronix makes a distributor with Ignitor II ignition. Works great in my
TR6. They have one for the four also.

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 8:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As
> I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
> replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported
> quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if
> you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From fubog1 at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 09:47:48 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:47:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>

 Lucas of course, usually a model 45 with Allison/Crane optical unit.

Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 20, 2012 11:29 am
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4


The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on
my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take this
car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So,
should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues with
Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known good
set-up you want to sell, let me know.

Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From kaskas at cox.net  Sat Oct 20 09:48:12 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 15:48:12 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-3 & 4 ports
Message-ID: <SNT120-W825AD22E65B8C317BC509DF740@phx.gbl>

For those of you that have my book "Historical and Technical Guide" published
in 2008, there are Mordy Dunst photos of the cross sections of the ports on
page 58 and my suggestion line for porting with advice on the weld fill on the
exhaust port also.  Neat that Jim is following up with more detail.

Never be beaten by equipment


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 10:14:36 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 12:14:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<8CF7CF163AA1A43-CA4-FFFC@webmail-m165.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9MSVgygx+qqFW93LGmS5Uq9K63vVHZWaeCUOub7xFHkNg@mail.gmail.com>

Scott, I use a Pertronics dist. on my racer and have had only one
problem...three years later.... since I put it in in 2007 and Pertronics
suppoort was great with a new unit for free. Just my two cents.

rob deanes
TR Racer

On Sat, Oct 20, 2012 at 11:47 AM, fubog1 <fubog1 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Lucas of course, usually a model 45 with Allison/Crane optical unit.
>
> Glen
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
> To: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 20, 2012 11:29 am
> Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
>
> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition
> on
> my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
> this
> car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.  So,
> should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
> with
> Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
> good
> set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 20 10:14:35 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:14:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <CD0569BA-60E1-463E-8E2D-2C881DA9A1E3@sbcglobal.net>

Lucas 25D -
send it to Advanced Distributors
for a complete rebuild.
612-804-5543
Jeff can also supply you with a core if you don' have one.

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 09:45:50 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
Message-ID: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>

We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't 
think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
 
For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the 
TR4's are the same....
 
 
In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sjanzen at me.com writes:

The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered 
ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may 
take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based 
replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality 
issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you 
have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.  

Sent from my  mobile device  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From jhouathome at aol.com  Sat Oct 20 11:12:38 2012
From: jhouathome at aol.com (John Houlton)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 12:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>

Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
John

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 20 11:37:21 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 13:37:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT403-EAS44406A25AFBF8FA1BA37F04B2740@phx.gbl>

Installed a Pertronix on Both my race and street GT6.  Excellent results.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-10-20, at 1:18 PM, "John Houlton" <jhouathome at aol.com> wrote:

> Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
> John
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Oct 20 15:33:49 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 23:33:49 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>

I run Pertronix I.


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Scott Janzen
Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4

The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered ignition
on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may take
this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality issues
with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a known
good set-up you want to sell, let me know.

Sent from my mobile device
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Sat Oct 20 17:38:48 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:38:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
Message-ID: <7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>

We use a dist from Moss called I think, "race" with protrpnix and their coil
Never any problem. I think it is aMG dist at any rate be sure and use thee red
rotor

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 20, 2012, at 5:33 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> I run Pertronix I.
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> Auftrag von Scott Janzen
> Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
> An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Sat Oct 20 18:06:32 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 18:06:32 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<6604EAF7-664B-427B-AAF9-614CFF8573EC@aol.com>
Message-ID: <58CC71DA-33AC-4E52-B4AF-3A84DDC7AAC0@yahoo.com>

TrueSpark electronic from BP Northwest.  My Mallory dual point developed top
end wobble making it hard to time. The TrueSpark has bushings to adjust total
advance.  Mark Eden bought one and I followed his lead.

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 20, 2012, at 11:12 AM, John Houlton <jhouathome at aol.com> wrote:

> Pertronix.  I threw my Mallory deep into the woods.
> John
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 10:27 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
ignition
> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
take
> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
issues
> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
known
> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 20 18:18:17 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:18:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<002001cdaf0a$9913fc50$cb3bf4f0$@com>
	<7C965EDB-0EE7-4B25-86C8-6452EEDEF56E@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <D648C2D8-A4AE-4BFC-AEB8-E99912C1B560@sbcglobal.net>

'The Red Rotor' is sourced from Advanced Distributors.

On Oct 20, 2012, at 6:38 PM, John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> We use a dist from Moss called I think, "race" with protrpnix and their
coil
> Never any problem. I think it is aMG dist at any rate be sure and use thee
red
> rotor
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 20, 2012, at 5:33 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>> I run Pertronix I.
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>> Auftrag von Scott Janzen
>> Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Oktober 2012 17:28
>> An: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
>> Betreff: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition
>> on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As I may
> take
>> this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based replacement.
>> So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported quality
> issues
>> with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you have a
> known
>> good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net


From horizonracing at msn.com  Sun Oct 21 10:48:43 2012
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 09:48:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>

Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success is :malloy alloy dist.
pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm wires.  Although not
perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo costly and most important
to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2 seasons before they need a
basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight bushings fail (plastic). The malloy
rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also, the CSRG folks do not allow MSD ign.,
so the box is placed in a discreet location..... painted black.  I guess they
don't want the BIG RED box to be seen...or something like that.  I'm also
interested in what other racers are using.   CheersTony Garmey
 > From: Gt6steve at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400
> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>
> We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
> think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
>
> For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
> TR4's are the same....
>
>
> In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> sjanzen at me.com writes:
>
> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As
I may
> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given reported
quality
> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you
> have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my  mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Sun Oct 21 11:37:15 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 10:37:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
	<SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>

I liked the simplicity of the Mallory dual points with total loss battery,
though I admit to a few embarassing incidents when the battery went flat. When
Tony took over maintenance of Peyote he went immediately to a pertronix unit,
which I had abandoned feeling they need more than the 12 or less volts of a
total loss system under load. Of course they worked fine for him. He also
added an alternator, which has been a bit of a mixed bag. When you rev
fequently to 7K the vibrations are tough on alternator mounts. Slowing the
alternator helps, but it's still a heavy weight on the far end of a system
that's shaking like a cheap blender.

The bottom line with Peyote is that under Tony's care I've broken all my
personal lap records at every track I run at, every year. And the car runs
flawlessly.  I know damned well it's not the driver getting better.


On Oct 21, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success is :malloy alloy dist.
> pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm wires.  Although not
> perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo costly and most
important
> to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2 seasons before they need a
> basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight bushings fail (plastic). The
malloy
> rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also, the CSRG folks do not allow MSD
ign.,
> so the box is placed in a discreet location..... painted black.  I guess
they
> don't want the BIG RED box to be seen...or something like that.  I'm also
> interested in what other racers are using.   CheersTony Garmey
>> From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 11:45:50 -0400
>> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> We've seen some strange maladies with the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
>> think you can beat the points Mallory for performance and  reliability.
>>
>> For the Herald based cars you order the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
>> TR4's are the same....
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> sjanzen at me.com writes:
>>
>> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered
>> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range.
As
> I may
>> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based
>> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given
reported
> quality
>> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts?  And, if you
>> have  a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my  mobile device
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From stutzmans at comcast.net  Sun Oct 21 12:31:00 2012
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 14:31:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
Message-ID: <5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>

I'm surprised to hear that some of the racers are using new Pertronix 
dizzys.  I think they are made in India; but for whatever reason I'm not 
impressed with their build quality as compared with the old Lucas 25D and 
45D dizzys.  When properly sorted out on a Sun machine 25Ds and 45Ds (Glen 
likes the 45D because of its big cap) give excellent service.
A very important issue for racers is cam lobe accuracy which is an easy test 
on a Sun machine.  I've almost always found Lucas 4 cylinder dizzys to be 
right on.  Not so much on the Lucas 22D6 (TR6 dizzy) though.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
To: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 11:27 AM
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4


> The folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank triggered 
> ignition on my EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm range. As 
> I may take this car back to vintage, I'm looking for a distributor-based 
> replacement.  So, should it be Mallory with electronic guts, given 
> reported quality issues with Lucas replacement caps, etc?  Other thoughts? 
> And, if you have a known good set-up you want to sell, let me know.
>
> Sent from my mobile device
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 12:54:10 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 12:54:10 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
Message-ID: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>

I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving 
problem.
It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and check 
it out.
There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but 
the basic
functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.   
It will be
a while before I get all the missing mail back in there, should be done 
sometime
during the week.

And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a 
few pennies
and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty IPA 
or a some
of their Imperial Red...


mjb.


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Oct 21 13:19:35 2012
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 15:19:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Just a test-delete
Message-ID: <1d211.3e06ad28.3db5a4c7@aol.com>

This is a test, please ignore;-))  Steve


From j.wags63 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 21 13:49:18 2012
From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 12:49:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4
In-Reply-To: <BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>
References: <3b42.26dce4b6.3db4212e@aol.com>
	<SNT141-W92CB528B72139930E16C1B27B0@phx.gbl>
	<BAC25602-E443-4372-9975-F9094DC67B26@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <1350848958.35951.YahooMailNeo@web162502.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

We use a mallory duel point with one set blocked the other triggering
a MSD
6AL-2 with MSD 8.2 wires.The Mallory is easy to rebuild and
recurve. MSD have
rules you must follow or failure will be immanent
however should that happen
it is easy to bypass and just use the dual
point and stay racing for the
weekend.


From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Tony and Annie Garmey
<horizonracing at msn.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2012
12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4

I liked the
simplicity of the Mallory dual points with total loss battery,
though I admit
to a few embarassing incidents when the battery went flat. When
Tony took over
maintenance of Peyote he went immediately to a pertronix unit,
which I had
abandoned feeling they need more than the 12 or less volts of a
total loss
system under load. Of course they worked fine for him. He also
added an
alternator, which has been a bit of a mixed bag. When you rev
fequently to 7K
the vibrations are tough on alternator mounts. Slowing the
alternator helps,
but it's still a heavy weight on the far end of a system
that's shaking like a
cheap blender.

The bottom line with Peyote is that under Tony's care I've
broken all my
personal lap records at every track I run at, every year. And
the car runs
flawlessly.  I know damned well it's not the driver getting
better.


On Oct 21, 2012, at 9:48 AM, Tony and Annie Garmey
<horizonracing at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi There; The mix of bits I use with success
is :malloy alloy dist.
> pertronixMSD 6AL Digital. (rev limiter)Taylor 8mm
wires.  Although not
> perfect, The parts are fairly easy to get, Not tooo
costly and most
important
> to me..they work !   The dist. will go about 2
seasons before they need a
> basic refresh/rebuild. The advance weight
bushings fail (plastic). The
malloy
> rotors are weak. Carry a spare ! Also,
the CSRG folks do not allow MSD
ign.,
> so the box is placed in a discreet
location..... painted black.  I guess
they
> don't want the BIG RED box to be
seen...or something like that.  I'm also
> interested in what other racers are
using.   CheersTony Garmey
>> From: Gt6steve at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012
11:45:50 -0400
>> To: sjanzen at me.com; fot at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot]
Best distributor/ignition for TR4
>>
>> We've seen some strange maladies with
the Mallory Electronics.  I  don't
>> think you can beat the points Mallory
for performance and  reliability.
>>
>> For the Herald based cars you order
the Jag distributor.  Not sure if  the
>> TR4's are the same....
>>
>>
>> In a
message dated 10/20/2012 8:29:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> sjanzen at me.com
writes:
>>
>> The  folks at Electromotive tell me the very elegant crank
triggered
>> ignition on my  EP TR4 is not firing correctly throughout the rpm
range.
As
> I may
>> take this  car back to vintage, I'm looking for a
distributor-based
>> replacement.   So, should it be Mallory with electronic
guts, given
reported
> quality
>> issues  with Lucas replacement caps, etc? 
Other thoughts?  And, if you
>> have  a known good set-up you want to sell,
let me know.
>>
>> Sent from my  mobile device
>>
_______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com
>>
_______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
>
http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/j.wags63 at yahoo.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 14:45:22 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 14:45:22 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
In-Reply-To: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
References: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>

Well the FOT archives are not working as planned.  For some reason April 
and May
have duplicate entries, and the October archive is not showing up at 
all, even though
mail is going into it.

It is a cool and cloudy day, so while I ought to be out in the garage 
I'll keep working
on Team.Net for a while.

It's always something!

mjb.


From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 21 15:35:57 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 15:35:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-3 & 4 ports
Message-ID: <50846ABD.7000107@bradakis.com>

>  For those of you that have my book "Historical and Technical Guide"

That reminds me, I need to get new copies of the three books that I loaned out
that never came back.  Sad story, I won't go into details.  But with Christmas
coming up it may be time to drop a few hints around the relatives.

And the FOT archives seem to be in better health now, with all of September and
October up to date.

mjb.


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sun Oct 21 15:36:20 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 16:36:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Sweet!
In-Reply-To: <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>
References: <508444D2.7080000@bradakis.com>
  <50845EE2.50602@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <A7B28AA8-EC07-4231-9A5A-8DB253688CAE@consolidated.net>

Thanks for all you do

Kg

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 21, 2012, at 3:45 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Well the FOT archives are not working as planned.  For some reason April and
May
> have duplicate entries, and the October archive is not showing up at all,
even though
> mail is going into it.
>
> It is a cool and cloudy day, so while I ought to be out in the garage I'll
keep working
> on Team.Net for a while.
>
> It's always something!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphs at consolidated.net


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Oct 22 09:45:51 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:45:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
Message-ID: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>

I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google searches as being used for marine applications, though there's nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?

Here's the current spec:
non-resistor plug
Thread Size: 14mm
Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
Hex Size: 13/16"
Heat Range: 8
Gap: 1.02mm (.040")


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Oct 22 09:58:51 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 10:58:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.188.1638252574.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the 
BP6HS is colder.

Tony

At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at 
>Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new 
>plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google 
>searches as being used for marine applications, though there's 
>nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam 
>that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs 
>are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>
>Here's the current spec:
>non-resistor plug
>Thread Size: 14mm
>Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>Hex Size: 13/16"
>Heat Range: 8
>Gap: 1.02mm (.040")


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Oct 22 10:01:06 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:01:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
Message-ID: <A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>

I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.  He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.

Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what I have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.  He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.

So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points for now, at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500 on hand.

Thanks to the group for all the feedback.


From ponobill at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 10:08:33 2012
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 09:08:33 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
Message-ID: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum dust
ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter
of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts in
a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other improvements.  He uses a
high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it does not flex, fits tightly
and does not have the problems of most replacement caps available.  He also
supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He says he can run the single points
set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine without scatter.  My unit will be set up
with advance of 18 degrees at idle (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000
rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and the
plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He indicated
that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec for only a few
months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I mentioned that
inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to have cured the
scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the electronic unit
masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.  He will rebuild
these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500 on
hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:17:09 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:17:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>

Good day to all.
IIRC the heat range on NGK plugs run opposite.  The smaller the number is the
hotter plug.  They are opposite to the Champion heat ranges.  Not positive and
I'm sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
HTH
Sam Clark
Tulsa, OK
Green Country Triumphs.

On Oct 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the
> BP6HS is colder.
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at
>> Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new
>> plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google
>> searches as being used for marine applications, though there's
>> nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam
>> that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs
>> are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>>
>> Here's the current spec:
>> non-resistor plug
>> Thread Size: 14mm
>> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>> Hex Size: 13/16"
>> Heat Range: 8
>> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")


From tlizzard at msn.com  Mon Oct 22 10:29:17 2012
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:29:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds11B4FE69806037FF9381DDC37A0@phx.gbl>

Hard to beat NGKs.

Run with what works.



Terry Stetler


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Oct 22 10:40:24 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 18:40:24 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>

"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:41:06 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:41:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7E8B2A5C62BD-1DE8-187F0@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>

 The 45 has the bigger cap to prevent spark-scatter and some of the caps even
had internal ribs cast inside for that.
The early 45 points type has the asymmetrical cam and the advance is easy to
modify.
For those still using points, the later electronic 45s can be fitted with a
"eurospec" shaft assembly, with late cam and usually less mechanical advance.
HTH
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babcock <ponobill at gmail.com>
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 12:13 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.



> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger diameter
of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the assembly, puts
in


From fubog1 at aol.com  Mon Oct 22 10:42:28 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:42:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1663.1350921608.32722.fot@autox.team.net>
	<82CD5414-8B61-488F-813B-FE80FC372525@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7E8B5B2D557D-1DE8-18814@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com>

 Yes NGK higher # = colder.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Sam <trdoctor at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 12:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs


Good day to all.
IIRC the heat range on NGK plugs run opposite.  The smaller the number is the
hotter plug.  They are opposite to the Champion heat ranges.  Not positive
and
I'm sure someone will chime in with a definitive answer.
HTH
Sam Clark
Tulsa, OK
Green Country Triumphs.

On Oct 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> I use NGK BP7HS.  My recollection is that the BP8HS is hotter and the
> BP6HS is colder.
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:45 AM 10/22/2012, Scott Janzen wrote:
>> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at
>> Summit Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new
>> plugs.  The current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google
>> searches as being used for marine applications, though there's
>> nothing in the part number that indicates that use.
>> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam
>> that the engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs
>> are running light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
>> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>>
>> Here's the current spec:
>> non-resistor plug
>> Thread Size: 14mm
>> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
>> Hex Size: 13/16"
>> Heat Range: 8
>> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Oct 22 11:01:22 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:01:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
Message-ID: <1174703159.492614.1350925282199.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Chris,

If you like that we'll have to get you out punkin chunkin one of these days.

jim g



----- Original Message -----


From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: "Bill Babcock" <ponobill at gmail.com>, "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: "Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 10:40:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues. B He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements. B He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available. B He also supplies rotors (red) made for him. B He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter. B My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6. B He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms. B The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either. B He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason. B I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price. B He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 11:30:23 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 13:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
References: <4A47BB20-F8F5-4D5E-BCD7-1BF4E7697EEE@REcatalyst.com>
	<DCE23264-C66E-45CB-8303-A92A40C13A1A@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9ODVroDLepkYBnxy5LVYO0JkejSSD7b=b5s2kAJAwyZjQ@mail.gmail.com>

The NGK BP8HS-10 is a marine plug used in most Yamaha engines.....BR8HS-10
is the Resistor plug....but they work great in TRs also....I run that same
plug in my TR-4 racer and I am happy with it....works great in  boat too !

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I am prepping the recently acquired TR4 for the Turkey Bowl at Summit
> Point (Thanksgiving weekend) and thought I would get some new plugs.  The
> current plugs are NGK BP8HS-10.  These come up in google searches as being
> used for marine applications, though there's nothing in the part number
> that indicates that use.
> Engine is about 170 psi compression, 12:1, guessing from the cam that the
> engine will be running between 4,000 and 7,000 RPM.  Plugs are running
> light-medium brown, so apparently about the right heat range.
> Recommendations for plugs, or should I stick with what I've got?
>
> Here's the current spec:
> non-resistor plug
> Thread Size: 14mm
> Thread Reach: 12.7mm (1/2")
> Hex Size: 13/16"
> Heat Range: 8
> Gap: 1.02mm (.040")
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 22 17:42:53 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 19:42:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
Message-ID: <8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>

a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.

afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------

two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fitted in
the future.

All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the FOT in
the midwest.

Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.





Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


"flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
what it means.
Ah, I see. Catapult language.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Bill Babcock
Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.

We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
(1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
>
> Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> I
have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
>
> So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> for now,
at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
on hand.
>
> Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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From list at mackenzie.aero  Mon Oct 22 18:06:10 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 19:06:10 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4s for Sale in Austin, Texas
Message-ID: <000601cdb0b2$357f60e0$a07e22a0$@aero>

Posting this for a friend who has some cars needing new homes.  Pick them up
on F1 weekend!
************************************************************************
 
Three TR4s for sale
One 1962
One 1963
One 1964
All are red with wire wheels, and all are located at Ron Shimek Auto at 824
Romeria Dr in Austin, very near the DPS office at 2222 and Lamar.  Call me
1st if you'd like to look and either I can meet you there or let Ron know
you are coming by.  He can answer many of your questions about each.
 
All have clear titles and are ready for legal sale
 
Here are the currently available pictures: http://photobucket.com/TR4s  The
unlabeled pix are of the 1962; the other two are labeled with the year
first, then pic number, so you can tell them apart.
 
They are in various conditions:
1962 is ready to drive with new timing chain and new front wheel bearings.
Tires are tired, needs paint and could use some rocker repair, but have all
trim.  Interior is decent, excellent top.  Will need some tinkering with
electrics to get inspected.  Ideally Offers over $9k-I have more than this
into it.
 
The 1963 is ready to restore but has nice correct signal red paint, a couple
spots need wet-sanding down low to eliminate minor runs.  Top ok.  Needs
interior re-do, has metal dash and the speedo and tach were re-worked, ready
to go back into the car.  Except for one small spot bubbling under pain on
hood, car is pretty much rust free.  The car was owned by a retired preacher
in San Antonio, and was garaged for about 10 years.  Motor was started and
ran briefly, but needs carb work.  Unknown condition of other mechanicals,
but have no reason to believe any have major issues ('course, I could be
wrong).  This is a great solid car deserving of a proper resto.  Prefer
Offers over $4k
 
The 1964 has the best paint, though not necessarily Triumph correct red, and
suspect it was originally white.  It has a brand new Triumph interior, red
with white piping.  Best wheels of the 3.  Probably needs head gasket among
other things, likely some clutch and brake hydraulics, too.  Has an
after-market hard top, not sure if it was ever actually attached to car, and
unknown condition of soft top.  I have $8k in this one.
 
Way too much on my plate and need to sell all three-MOTIVATED!  Would be
happy to entertain a package deal for two or all three.
 
Thanks!
 
Dave Foreman
Mobile: 512-576-1933
E: Dave at Beanitos.com; 


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Oct 23 00:55:44 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (Christian Marx)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 23:55:44 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>

So let me test the word.
A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air
it had been flung?
 Am 23.10.2012 01:43 schrieb "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>:

> a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.
>
> afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fittedin the future.
>
> All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the
> FOT in the midwest.
>
> Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.
>
>
>  Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
>  "flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
> what it means.
> Ah, I see. Catapult language.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net <fot-bounces at autox.team.net?>] Im
> Auftrag von Bill Babcock
> Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
> An: Scott Janzen
> Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.
>
> We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
> the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
> dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
> On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
> He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
> diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
> assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
> improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
> does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
> replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
> says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
> without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
> (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
> >
> > Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> > I
> have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
> stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
> the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
> indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
> for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
> mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
> have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
> electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
> He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
> >
> > So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> > for now,
> at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
> on hand.
> >
> > Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
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>
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> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 05:05:34 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:05:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <8CF7F241AF7C0C0-17B0-340CC@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CF7F241AF7C0C0-17B0-340CC@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7F25750DBBA4-17B0-34148@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com>

Hmmm... maybe... but the F16 isn't a carrier based aircraft.... (grin)
Glen


A F16 on an aircraft carrier







-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 23, 2012 3:07 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion


So let me test the word.

A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air

it had been flung?


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Oct 23 05:32:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 13:32:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com><5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC><A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com><0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com><001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com><8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>

Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
hold back my last message.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
An: Christian Marx
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Will fling, is flinging and has flung.

Scott


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Oct 24 08:53:45 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:53:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com><5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC><A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com><0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com><001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com><8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com><CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com><3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
Message-ID: <F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>

This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding! 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:32 AM
To: 'Barr, Scott'; 'Triumph 'Friends ofTriumph''
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
hold back my last message.

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
An: Christian Marx
Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

Will fling, is flinging and has flung.

Scott
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 09:36:00 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:36:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>

 Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.


NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From fubog1 at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 09:36:54 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:36:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion explanation
Message-ID: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

 A statement was made yesterday re an analogy to an F-16 launched off of a
carrier...
I made the perhaps smart-ass comment that the F-16 wasn't carrierbased,
tongue-in-cheek, and my reply bounced back due to too much text.I sent another
shortened reply.
This was apparently interpreted by the OP to having been held by moderator
forbeing offensive in some way. I made it clear in an email to the OP thatit
was in no way intended to be offensive; this was a simplemisunderstanding.
Sorry for the confusion...
Glen

This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!







Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and

hold back my last message.


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Oct 24 10:05:22 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (Christian Marx)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:05:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion explanation
In-Reply-To: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF801486ABE1AE-A00-293A3@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPrGtEMSei=jd92OCL8KN=DDQdK6qnStW0Jz-+kAb6GQVa3o4w@mail.gmail.com>

Was my fault. Did write one word wrong. Instead of our I wrote "your".
So everything is okay with me. :-)

Cheers
Chris
Am 24.10.2012 17:36 schrieb "fubog1" <fubog1 at aol.com>:

>   A statement was made yesterday re an analogy to an F-16 launched off of
> a carrier...
> I made the perhaps smart-ass comment that the F-16 wasn't carrier based,
> tongue-in-cheek, and my reply bounced back due to too much text. I sent
> another shortened reply.
> This was apparently interpreted by the OP to having been held by moderator
> for being offensive in some way. I made it clear in an email to the OP that
> it was in no way intended to be offensive; this was a simple
> misunderstanding.
> Sorry for the confusion...
> Glen
>
> This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
>
>
> hold back my last message.


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed Oct 24 10:12:48 2012
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:12:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFEA44@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

NAME:  Scott Barr
CAR:	Spitfire
CAR #49
OSTHOFF?  Possibly, but I am usually a camper


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE

 Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host
hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP
at ROAD AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This
information will be used by several people or groups.


NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sbarr at mccarty-law.com


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 24 10:30:24 2012
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 09:30:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1351096224.91415.YahooMailNeo@web140603.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

NAME: Ernie Husmann
CAR: Spitfire; 1975 GP Champion
Car #: 4 
Osthoff:
Possible but doubtful
Attend Only: If the car isn't ready
________________________________
 From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To:
fot at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
Subject: [Fot]
2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
 
Need information for the
usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of
rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help
facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend
and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide
information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.
NAME__________________
CAR____________________
CAR #___________________
OSTHOFF?________________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 24 10:57:13 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:57:13 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYo9OVJGNWGaZX7t-fnrrw4F-79FiVQ=b0QNzHEKopqWUQ@mail.gmail.com>

Name: Jason Ostrowski
Car: 1969 GT6+
Car #: 27
Osthoff: No

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 10:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

>  Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
> SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
> ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
> be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__________________
> CAR____________________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?________________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Wed Oct 24 11:01:58 2012
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:01:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] FW:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFEA48@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>

NAME Russ and Terry Westfall_________________
CAR__TR4A__________________
CAR #__not assigned yet_________________
OSTHOFF? _yes_______________
ATTEND ONLY_______________



From: Russell Westfall [mailto:rwestfall at ymail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 11:40 AM
To: Barr, Scott
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE





--- On Wed, 10/24/12, Barr, Scott <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com> wrote:


From: Barr, Scott <sbarr at McCarty-Law.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
To: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2012, 4:12 PM

NAME:  Scott Barr
CAR:    Spitfire
CAR #49
OSTHOFF?  Possibly, but I am usually a camper


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.ne
t>  [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.ne
t> ] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 10:36 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE

Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host
hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP
at ROAD AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This
information will be used by several people or groups.


NAME_Russ and Terry Westfall_________________
CAR__TR4A__________________
CAR #__not assigned yet_________________
OSTHOFF?_yes_______________
ATTEND ONLY_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=n197tr4 at cs.com>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1618.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net>

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>

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From John.Reed at wilson.com  Wed Oct 24 11:36:40 2012
From: John.Reed at wilson.com (Reed, John)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:36:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CCAD9158.B17E%John.Reed@wilson.com>

On 10/24/12 10:36 AM, "Joe N197TR4" <N197TR4 at cs.com> wrote:

Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP SHIRTS
and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.

If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
ROAD
AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will be
used by several people or groups.


NAME_ John Reed_________________
CAR  1969 GT6+ Hopefully____________________
CAR #  69___________________
OSTHOFF? Camping________________
ATTEND ONLY I will be there car or no car_______________


THANKS!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/john.reed at wilson.com




John Reed
Global Staff Photographer
Creative Services

[cid:3433927000_228101709]

Wilson Sporting Goods Co.
8750 W. Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago IL 60631: USA
T: 1 773.714.6895    F: 1 773.714.4585
John.Reed at wilson.com  http://www.wilson.com  http://www.amersports.com



This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are
not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please
notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image.png]


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 11:44:50 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 10:44:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 2013 KASTNER CUP PLANNING NEED INFO PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDsNzatdezJZvieC3ts_Fex4sVkUNjShT_bH2KDbMPOgA@mail.gmail.com>

Coming this year for sure:

Chuck Arnold
TR6
74
Camping

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 8:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

>  Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
> SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
> ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
> be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__________________
> CAR____________________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?________________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Oct 24 11:45:11 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 13:45:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
Message-ID: <7d3a0.2ccd9b8.3db98327@aol.com>

Return-path: <BillDentin at aol.com>
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Full-name: BillDentin
Message-ID: <1e788.2bede059.3db96ac2 at aol.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:01:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
To: n197tr4 at cs.com
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In a message dated 10/24/2012 10:47:27 AM Central Daylight Time, 
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:


> NAME__Bill Dentinger________________
> CAR____1956 Triumph TR3________________
> CAR #___29________________
> OSTHOFF?______NO Thank You_________
> ATTEND ONLY_______________


From jsnook at wcnet.org  Wed Oct 24 12:03:40 2012
From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup
Message-ID: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>

NAME:  Jeff Snook
CAR:  1961 Triumph TR3A
CAR #:  41
OSTHOFF?:  Possibly


Jeff Snook
http://www.snooksdreamcars.com
419-344-0319 (Mobile)


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 24 12:51:32 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:51:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] NEWS YOU CAN USE: OSTHOFF NEGOTIATED RATES AND WEBSITE
 KASTNER CUP 2013
Message-ID: <8CF802FB7DCE35C-AA8-2A968@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>

 Note:  Contract has not been signed yet. Do not make reservations
yet.....When contract is signed, make reservations as soon as possible under
'FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH' to ensure desired rooms and best rates.

WEBSITE:  To review floor plans and amenities:    WWW.OSTHOFF.COM

FRIENDS OF TRIUMPH      RATES

'GUEST ROOMS'                   $139.00

'ONE BEDROOM SUITE'       $159.00

'TWO BEDROOM SUITE'      $189.00

'THREE BEDROOM SUITE'  $239.00

HINTS:  LIVING ROOM HAS HIDE-A-BED AND IF YOU HAVE ANY FRIENDS YOU CAN SPLIT
THE COSTS.....MANY OF US ARE.

I will likely sign contract in a week or so.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 24 14:20:13 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:20:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup
In-Reply-To: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>
References: <00fe01cdb211$e6190540$b24b0fc0$@org>
Message-ID: <50884D7D.1050507@bradakis.com>

I'll be there, no car, Osthoff most likely.

mjb.


From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Oct 24 17:52:15 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:52:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0FB6C59C-EF86-4765-B812-FEDA1EC7665D@consolidated.net>

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 24, 2012, at 10:36 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> Need information for the usual planning, which includes names on KCUP
SHIRTS
> and estimating number of rooms to contract at the OSTHOFF as host hotel.
> Replying ASAP will help facilitate the work required.
>
> If it is your current intention to attend and/or enter the KASTNER CUP at
ROAD
> AMERICA 6-8 SEPT  2013, please provide information. This information will
be
> used by several people or groups.
>
>
> NAME__Ken Gano_________
> CAR_____not a race car_______________
> CAR #___________________
> OSTHOFF?_____yes___________
> ATTEND ONLY__yes_____________
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphs at consolidated.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 24 18:11:59 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:11:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] List problems?
Message-ID: <508883CF.8010606@bradakis.com>

While whacking on the archive issue and stuff I got to thinking.  Are there
any outstanding issues folks are having with this list, unanswered 
nominations
or such?  I tend to get a LOT of team.net mail and sometimes it does 
slip through
the cracks.

mjb.


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 24 20:17:56 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 22:17:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W14FDEE2B978DD7F36A2496BA7F0@phx.gbl>

 NAME___Marty Sukey_______________
 CAR_________Spitfire___________
 CAR #_________8__________
 OSTHOFF?______YES__________


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 24 21:15:23 2012
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:15:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] H6 Bell crank
Message-ID: <1351134923.93265.YahooMailNeo@web160901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Does some one have spare H6 Bell crank - Moss # 371-420.  
 
Thanks - Mike
Mehl


From igofaster at att.net  Wed Oct 24 21:53:21 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:53:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fw:  2013  KASTNER CUP PLANNING     NEED INFO   PLEASE
In-Reply-To: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF80146741D6D9-AA8-290E9@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1351137201.71087.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Joe.....





Bobby Whitehead
Triumph GT6
#39
maybe 2 for a Hotel if my wife comes, or camp Triumphette Travel Trailer 
Lodge... 

Try to race, if that doesn't work, Henry will block me in and I'm attending....

starting on a new lump this winter.... soooooo.... you know....

Bobby Whitehead




________________________________


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Thu Oct 25 08:07:06 2012
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (MARKANDGLENDA PENDERGRASS)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:07:06 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>

Now you know how the rest of us feel when we hire attorneys..........

MP

On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 7:53 AM, john hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com> wrote:

> This whole discussion is so far flung that it escapes understanding!
>
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments)
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of MadMarx
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 7:32 AM
> To: 'Barr, Scott'; 'Triumph 'Friends ofTriumph''
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Now we've got it....the moderator got notice of your rubbishing around and
> hold back my last message.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Barr, Scott [mailto:sbarr at McCarty-Law.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Oktober 2012 13:26
> An: Christian Marx
> Betreff: RE: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Will fling, is flinging and has flung.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net


From list at mackenzie.aero  Thu Oct 25 09:11:22 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 10:11:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension
Message-ID: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>

Does anybody have a set of re-buildable GT6 MK3 rotoflex rear suspension
parts they don't need anymore?
I am in the process of restoring a car for my wife and the lower control
arms and uprights  I  removed are badly corroded.

Thanks!

Robert MacKenzie
Austin Texas
'79 1500 (street)
'71 GT6 MKIII (project)
'62 Spitfire 4 (race)


From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Oct 25 10:53:25 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 09:53:25 -0700
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>

I am disposing of two TR6 transmissions and thought I would offer them to
FOT before posting on eBay [no big hurry to sell].

One is a newly rebuilt close ratio 4 speed.  Has the Dolomite Sprint input
and higher second gear.  New syncros, bearings and 3rd gear. Great racing
four speed.  This has the 1" by 23 spline input shaft, so a different froms
tock clutch plate is needed.  I have a 7.25 Quartermaster dual plate clutch
and two sets of clutch disks [one used a season, one brand new] that I am
willing to include with this transmission.  I would like to get $1100 for
it [the gearsets alone cost $600].  Certainly open to offers.

The second is a 4 speed with A-type overdrive.  This came with my race car
[which was a roller].   I used it twice [but never with the OD as I did not
setup wiring for it].  Bob Cramer had rebuilt this tranny for Richard
Junkermeier [of Wyotech-- the one who built the Ambro for Joe].  I replaced
the solenoid and the plate it attaches to with expectations of using the OD
-- but go the close ratio box instead.  Would like $900 for this one.

I am open to any comments on price or offers to buy.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 11:09:33 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:09:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Tornado Talisman & Lotus Elan reunited...
Message-ID: <13414.6938b3e4.3dbacc4d@aol.com>

Amici...

While I have not seen it yet, there is an extensive article in the November 
issue of MONTHLY CLASSIC (UK) about the Tornado Talisman and the Lotus 
Elan.  Back in the early 1960s they were both being 'birthed' at the same time 
when Tornado Cars and Lotus were competitors.  It is my understanding that at 
one time Tornado Cars was bigger than Lotus and the Tornado Cars models all 
used many Triumph parts.  Below is a copy of a letter to the MONTHLY 
CLASSIC editor from Bill Woodhouse (one of the Tornado Cars founders) about the 
article, and I thought it might be of interest to some FOT folk.

> On 17 Oct 2012, at 11:10 am, Bill & Ann Woodhouse wrote:
> 
> >> Needless to say I read your excellent November issue with more than 
>> usual interest and thank you for the eight pages of superb photographs and 
>> details.
>> 
>> One point though mystifies me;  on page 3, under the Tornado Talisman - 
>> Essential Checks is stated:-
>> "Rear hubs are prone to movement causing bearing wear."  The two Triumph 
>> hubs, as you explain are "Arc welded" back to back and movement here is 
>> impossible.  The two big ball bearings that Tornado uses, as opposed to the 
>> single one Triumph uses, are a push fit into machined recesses, each end 
>> of the trunnion, five inches apart and retained by a plate incorporating a 
>> grease seal.  There is no possibility of movement here.
>> 
>> I have to wonder whether whoever made this remark is confusing the 
>> necessity to check the torque of the wheel hub retaining nut on a new assembly 
>> after 500 miles.  The morse taper fit wheel hub and drive shaft, after 
>> bedding in, needs nipping up to 45 lbs/feet torque.   I am not alone in 
>> overlooking this after my rebuild, with disastrous results.  I was severely 
>> reprimanded by my old Engineering Foreman, Eric Martin, for not reading the 
>> owner's manual I had written in 1961, deservedly so.  Other owners have made 
>> this oversight.  The warning presumably also applies to all Heralds, 
>> Vitesse and Spitfires!
>> 
>> 
>> Yours,
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Woodhouse


From BillDentin at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 11:20:52 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 13:20:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Tornado Talisman & Spitfire reprise...
Message-ID: <13aef.56948b4.3dbacef4@aol.com>

Amici...

Being an early TR3 racer, much of this is GREEK to me, but here is some
more concerning that CLASSIC MONTHLY article and Tornado Cars ties to TRIUMPH,
the editor, Gary Stretton, got back to Tornado Cars founder, Bill Woodhouse,
and his response included:

<<< Interesting point you make re the rear hubs. I'll see if we can clarify
the statement. I'm a Spitfire owner myself but I'm not familiar with the
Tornado setup. Sounds as if the setups have been confused. >>>

to which Bill Woodhouse then responded:

<<< Dear Gary,

No apologies needed.

As a Spitfire owner you will be familiar with the outer trunnion on your
drive shaft.  As I couldn't bring myself to accept the geometry of a swing
axle with a high roll centre I had Hardy Spicer make articulated drive shafts.
To support the final short end of the drive shaft I simply welded the
Triumph trunnions back to back, dispensed with the roller bearing but used the
two big outer ball bearings, packing the space between with grease.  The two
vertical swinging arms that attached the Triumph trunnion to the transverse
leaf spring I welded to the now back to back trunnions but downwards to
locate my lower transverse swinging arms, thus utilising all Standard Triumph
parts.

If you have a copy of Martyn Morgan Jones' excellent book "Winds of Change"
you will see reproduced a surprisingly good cut-away drawing by "Sports Car
Graphic" in the States (April 1962) which shows very clearly the
fabrication I am talking about.

I could do a sketch for you if needed.

Hope this will help with any future comments.

You most certainly did a wonderful head-to-head comparison.  What surprised
me is that an Elan S1 is valued at #30.000 to #40,000 in good condition.  I
have asked my insurers to reassess the agreed valuation of my Talisman!

All the very best,

Bill Woodhouse


From igofaster at att.net  Wed Oct 24 21:42:05 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 20:42:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
In-Reply-To: <CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351136525.61646.YahooMailRC@web182204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

correct me if I'm wrong...but AN F16 is an Air Force weapon of mass destruction, 
not Navy...

now fling an F18 and you're talking Hornets!

Bobby




________________________________
From: Christian Marx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, October 23, 2012 2:07:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion

So let me test the word.
A F16 on an aircraft carrier will be fling off and as soon its in the air
it had been flung?
Am 23.10.2012 01:43 schrieb "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>:

> a trebuchet will 'fling' your lucas a long distance.
>
> afterwards, it will have been 'flung'.
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-
>
> two of our TRs have LUCAS with CRANE/ALLISON....a third one will be fittedin 
>the future.
>
> All done by ADVANCED DISTRIBUTORs.....typically the first choice of the
> FOT in the midwest.
>
> Jeff recommended the CRANE/ALLISON over the PERTRONIX for racing.
>
>
>  Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: 'Bill Babcock' <ponobill at gmail.com>; 'Scott Janzen' <sjanzen at me.com>
> Cc: 'Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'' <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2012 11:44 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
>  "flung" - that's a nice word. Never heard it before. I like it. Have to look
> what it means.
> Ah, I see. Catapult language.
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net 
><fot-bounces at autox.team.net?>] Im
> Auftrag von Bill Babcock
> Gesendet: Montag, 22. Oktober 2012 18:09
> An: Scott Janzen
> Cc: Triumph 'Friends of Triumph'
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Best distributor/ignition for TR4 - conclusion
>
> Gee, maybe I shouldn't have flung all those Lucas dizzies with my catapult.
>
> We do know that Mallory's come apart every so often. The stops break off and
> the weights mill the insides. If you're running points all that aluminum
> dust ends your race, while if you have a pertronix, it doesn't.
> On Oct 22, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>
> > I had an informative talk with Jeff at Advanced Distributors this morning.
> He recommended a 45D Lucas with a 25D shaft assembly, cuz the larger
> diameter of the 45 cap eliminates cross-fire issues.  He balances the
> assembly, puts in a full length shaft bushing, and makes some other
> improvements.  He uses a high quality cap with added ribbing, and says it
> does not flex, fits tightly and does not have the problems of most
> replacement caps available.  He also supplies rotors (red) made for him.  He
> says he can run the single points set-up to 10,000 rpm on his machine
> without scatter.  My unit will be set up with advance of 18 degrees at idle
> (1500 rpm) going to full advance by 3000 rpm.
> >
> > Of interest to me was the comments he had about Mallory, which is what
> > I
> have in the GT6.  He was very critical of the light springs, which he said
> stretch and cause scatter at all rpms.  The shaft bushings don't last, and
> the plastic bushings on the centrifugal weights don't last either.  He
> indicated that these units ought to rebuilt once a year, but stay in spec
> for only a few months, and doesn't recommend them for that reason.  I
> mentioned that inserting the Unilite electronic module in mine seemed to
> have cured the scatter I saw with a timing light, and he responded that the
> electronic unit masks the scatter from poor bushings, but it's still there.
> He will rebuild these, but says it's not cost-effective in the long run.
> >
> > So, there's a modified Lucas 45 on the way for the TR4, with points
> > for now,
> at a very reasonable price.  He doesn't need cores at this point - has 1500
> on hand.
> >
> > Thanks to the group for all the feedback.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com
> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 25 15:57:36 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 14:57:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>
References: <001101cdb2c2$febc1130$fc343390$@aero>
Message-ID: <1351202256.99438.YahooMailRC@web182205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Robert,,,,  I have some for you but it's going to cost you a 5th of Patron and a 
case of Original Coors.... now...  that's a whole new can of worms about beer 
and tequila I'm sure...
contact me off list...
Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: Robert MacKenzie <list at mackenzie.aero>
To: FOT List <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, October 25, 2012 10:20:33 AM
Subject: [Fot] Wanted: GT6 Roroflex rear suspension

Does anybody have a set of re-buildable GT6 MK3 rotoflex rear suspension
parts they don't need anymore?
I am in the process of restoring a car for my wife and the lower control
arms and uprights  I  removed are badly corroded.

Thanks!

Robert MacKenzie
Austin Texas
'79 1500 (street)
'71 GT6 MKIII (project)
'62 Spitfire 4 (race)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From igofaster at att.net  Thu Oct 25 16:00:17 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 15:00:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNAuWfafL49P9h7GmJKJ_9Fhztm3vLEK03foykTm5VAOng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351202417.17228.YahooMailRC@web182203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

the first one would be a great upgrade for the GT6 by the way for a GT6 guy or 
gal that wants a better way to go... I've got a very similar one waiting if I 
ever try to use it... the close ratio gears would be the bomb...

Bobby




________________________________
From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley <triosan at gmail.com>
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, October 25, 2012 11:53:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] 2 trannies for FOT before Ebay

I am disposing of two TR6 transmissions and thought I would offer them to
FOT before posting on eBay [no big hurry to sell].

One is a newly rebuilt close ratio 4 speed.  Has the Dolomite Sprint input
and higher second gear.  New syncros, bearings and 3rd gear. Great racing
four speed.  This has the 1" by 23 spline input shaft, so a different froms
tock clutch plate is needed.  I have a 7.25 Quartermaster dual plate clutch
and two sets of clutch disks [one used a season, one brand new] that I am
willing to include with this transmission.  I would like to get $1100 for
it [the gearsets alone cost $600].  Certainly open to offers.

The second is a 4 speed with A-type overdrive.  This came with my race car
[which was a roller].   I used it twice [but never with the OD as I did not
setup wiring for it].  Bob Cramer had rebuilt this tranny for Richard
Junkermeier [of Wyotech-- the one who built the Ambro for Joe].  I replaced
the solenoid and the plate it attaches to with expectations of using the OD
-- but go the close ratio box instead.  Would like $900 for this one.

I am open to any comments on price or offers to buy.

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley
_______________________________________________


From trdoctor at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 16:14:28 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 17:14:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
Message-ID: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>

Good day to all,
I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to the
floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
(without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without any
problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines out
with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got the
car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long story
short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion of
the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.  Anyone
else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line especially
since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look at
the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so I
put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
TIA,


From BillDentin at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 12:39:37 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 14:39:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
Message-ID: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>

Amici...

I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and it 
includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph 
Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each 
Spitfire model.

A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in 
particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled look 
on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the engine 
compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But 
then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.

Bill (Damdinger)


From jason at multivintage.com  Sun Oct 28 12:55:38 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 18:55:38 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
References: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.189.1638252574.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Its just the opposite when you are in your TR3.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 14:39:37 
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...

Amici...

I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and it 
includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph 
Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each 
Spitfire model.

A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in 
particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled look 
on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the engine 
compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But 
then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.

Bill (Damdinger)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 14:13:09 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:13:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcHJOCpFK0FR5vFX4VKTFtCfxjVb_2fSb+6TFqLy8SK5Dw@mail.gmail.com>
	<9E5AFC6C-C7CE-43B8-B884-11BF0C4ED962@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <183197DA-F760-42E4-A231-6BE4FA30EF72@aol.com>

Problem solved.  It was the master cylinder.  Pedal holds firm at a stop.  I
might need to re-bleed later since I'm using silicone fluif but it is
roadworthy once again.
On Oct 28, 2012, at 1:28 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:

> It may not be the one-way booster valve but something inside the booster,
such as a seal or O-ring.
>
> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 8:06 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
> No.  That has never been my experience.  The idle does not change with the
foot on or off the pedal.
> Sam
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 5:38 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Did you check the brake vacuum boster for air leaks in that unit.?  That
would cause the pedal to drop.
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>> Good day to all,
>> I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
>> would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to
the
>> floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
>> replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
>> (without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
>> cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without
any
>> problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines
out
>> with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got
the
>> car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long
story
>> short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion
of
>> the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.
Anyone
>> else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line
especially
>> since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look
at
>> the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so
I
>> put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
>> TIA,
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com


From stutzmans at comcast.net  Sun Oct 28 15:39:47 2012
From: stutzmans at comcast.net (Stutzmans)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 17:39:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...
In-Reply-To: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
References: <1b533.4618aa4b.3dbed5e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E1DD217D29F44B769B1A48D87B0A8C91@ComputerPC>

The Summer 2012 edition of the Toronto Triumph Club's RAGTOP also has a good 
50 years of Spitfire article.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 2:39 PM
Subject: [Fot] Fifty years of Spitfires...


> Amici...
>
> I received the current issue of Triumph World in the mail yesterday, and 
> it
> includes a nice article marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Triumph
> Spitfire.  Lots of nice pictures, with a couple of pages dedicated to each
> Spitfire model.
>
> A few of the pictures include pretty young girls in the cars.  One in
> particular is cute, showing a blonde sitting in the car with a disgruntled 
> look
> on her face, while her beau and three or four other blokes study the 
> engine
> compartment.  She apparently is used to getting a lot more attention.  But
> then Spitfires get a lot of attention too.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutzmans at comcast.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 12:52:34 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:52:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and floors
Message-ID: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>

I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting the
car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills together
on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on the
new frame.

Here is the link.  See page 75/76

http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
r4&f=false

Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?

Thx

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)


From mmoore at wave1.net  Mon Oct 29 13:55:09 2012
From: mmoore at wave1.net (Mike Moore)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:55:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <009401cdb60f$4d3a6650$e7af32f0$@net>

I did same to my street car and kept car together so I could keep everything
aligned easier. Fastened braces across top of door openings to keep proper
shape and then replaced one side at a time.

Thanks
Mike

Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508

Phone: 814-868-4831  ext 103
Fax:        814-864-7383


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 2:53 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and floors

I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back
together on the new frame.

Here is the link.  See page 75/76

http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
c
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5S
ement+rotted+k&hl=
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
t
r4&f=false

Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?

Thx

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mmoore at wave1.net


From gaf3 at charter.net  Mon Oct 29 14:41:46 2012
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:41:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>

Tyler
I have done many of these.
I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross 
brace.
I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top 
deck including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front 
corner.
I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
Glenn

On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting the
> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills together
> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on the
> new frame.
>
> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>
> http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
> ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
> en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
> r4&f=false
>
> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>
> Thx
>
> Ty
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 15:06:02 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 15:06:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
Message-ID: <67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>

Thanks Glenn!

Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as well
as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place that?
Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.

I would enjoy seeing your pics!

Thx

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 16:34:57 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:34:57 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
Message-ID: <6EE8C791-AF9B-40BE-B621-5A331C318744@yahoo.com>

Folks.

Glenn was a great help and documented the process for me with some pics and
pointers. I also received many comments from others directly.  Many thanks to
everyone.  As always, this list is so valuable.

Ty


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you we
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+replac
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Oct 29 17:02:18 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:02:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] PCV valves
In-Reply-To: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351551738.36217.YahooMailRC@web184802.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Generally where are folks using PCV valves?  Both of my Triumphs are
carburated 
TR6s.  Where is it better to have a PCV valve that a straight hose
to do with 
motor breathing?  Thanks, Jim


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Oct 29 17:04:33 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:04:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It was 
pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the m/c 
and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm wondering if 
I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the 
rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on this. 
Jim 


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Oct 29 17:33:35 2012
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 19:33:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9815E22E-0CF7-4E38-B0A7-7BD26A8814BC@seiri.com>

My solution was a new reservoir after trying to clean things up and replacing
the seals four or five times.

On Oct 29, 2012, at 19:04, sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net> wrote:

> On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It
was
> pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the
m/c
> and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm
wondering if
> I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the
> rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on
this.
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Oct 29 20:02:44 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:02:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
	<67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>

Ty,
	I have some of the lifting plates as shown in the Triumph Workshop
Manual for lifting the body off the frame that I cut out of 14 Ga. plate I
think and then drilled and bent to do the job.  I think I have an extra set
or I can send mine and you can return when done.  If you think they would be
of help, let me know.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:06 PM
To: Glenn Franco
Cc: Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
floors

Thanks Glenn!

Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as
well
as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place that?
Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.

I would enjoy seeing your pics!

Thx

Ty

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> Tyler
> I have done many of these.
> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
brace.
> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
> Glenn
>
> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about
splitting
the
>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
together
>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together
on
the
>> new frame.
>>
>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>>
>>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
c
>>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl
=
>>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
t
>> r4&f=false
>>
>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>
>> Thx
>>
>> Ty
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 21:04:36 2012
From: Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 21:04:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
 floors
In-Reply-To: <000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>
References: <65FEFABA-CBB1-49D8-A84F-1E509D9178E3@yahoo.com>
	<508EEA0A.5010705@charter.net>
	<67443E3C-C20B-4F47-9870-5C851FDA1411@yahoo.com>
	<000901cdb642$a71b3f90$f551beb0$@com>
Message-ID: <5BBA370E-A2D0-4FFA-891A-6698301802E6@yahoo.com>

Jim Lent me some lifting plates as well so I think I am good.  Thank you for
the offer.

Ty

Tyler Thompson l National Account Executive - Public Safety Sector
esri | One International Court | Broomfield, CO 80021
Phone: 303.449-7779 ext. 8260, cell: 719.510-1649 |
E-mail: tyler_thompson at esri.com


Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Oct 29, 2012, at 8:02 PM, "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com> wrote:

> Ty,
>    I have some of the lifting plates as shown in the Triumph Workshop
> Manual for lifting the body off the frame that I cut out of 14 Ga. plate I
> think and then drilled and bent to do the job.  I think I have an extra set
> or I can send mine and you can return when done.  If you think they would
be
> of help, let me know.
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 4:06 PM
> To: Glenn Franco
> Cc: Friends of triumph
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Splitting a TR4 body in half when replacing sills and
> floors
>
> Thanks Glenn!
>
> Jim Gray (another FOTer) lent me braces he built for the A to B pillar as
> well
> as some lifting eyes.  In terms of the cross brace, where do you place
that?
> Setting the tub on its side makes a lot sense.  Great ideas.
>
> I would enjoy seeing your pics!
>
> Thx
>
> Ty
>
> Sent from my iPad
> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>
> On Oct 29, 2012, at 2:41 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Tyler
>> I have done many of these.
>> I don't recommend splitting the body in half.
>> Do one side at a time. Use a brace between the A and B Posts and Cross
> brace.
>> I pull the body with a chain fall or hoist and sit it on its side.
>> I can send you photo's of the latest I'm restoring for a club member.
>> It's a TR250 that received floors inner and outer rockers a full top deck
> including trunk surround, battery tray and and R&R the left front corner.
>> I had to make repair panels to tie in the new parts.
>> Take LOTS of Measurements. Measure before you weld.
>> Glenn
>>
>> On 10/29/2012 2:52 PM, Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com wrote:
>>> I am working on a TR4 street car. It needs the front floor pans and inner
>>> sills replaced.  In reading a restoration guide, it talked about
> splitting
> the
>>> car in half (front and back half)  putting the new floors and sills
> together
>>> on the refurbished frame, and then putting the two halves back together
> on
> the
>>> new frame.
>>>
>>> Here is the link.  See page 75/76
>
http://books.google.com/books?id=wzKwPkJMUM8C&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=sill+repla
> c
>
ement+rotted+tr4&source=bl&ots=cZGCqluUgQ&sig=dj8utxsFSHgR0GakR0Wi-qxI5Sk&hl
> =
>
en&sa=X&ei=mOCNUNqFDqfbyQGAioDADg#v=onepage&q=sill%20replacement%20rotted%20
> t
>>> r4&f=false
>>>
>>> Any opinions on this versus cutting and replacing sections one at a time?
>>>
>>> Thx
>>>
>>> Ty
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> (Please excuse any errors or typos)
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From gaf3 at charter.net  Tue Oct 30 01:45:15 2012
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 03:45:15 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Leaky brake master cylinder resevoir
In-Reply-To: <1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <6E2BB0D7-8358-4006-BF17-2686E31BCBFF@me.com>
	<5F0353EDDBF04275940ED0DAFB9BA433@ComputerPC>
	<A64E27E9-924B-45A0-A2C4-5AAC209E4797@me.com>
	<0E1F9EDC-E456-46CE-9032-AD2B29B2FD4C@bnj.com>
	<001901cdb073$f1838b70$d48aa250$@com>
	<8CF7EC616D26478-CA8-1CE56@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAPrGtEO_BYrkgQ89pXfhTp3ATd0EQOW0uCjOnj-vNoVDBUd0CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7402FFE9FA@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com>
	<001a01cdb112$0ff4c6c0$2fde5440$@com>
	<F9CC5741083B408AAE1AFAB4312E2914@gdhs.local>
	<CACx-LfOKGGe6XaezOgHzQcHwiFystq2V01NOqWm0tb3jBhXVMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1351551873.16227.YahooMailRC@web184805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <508F858B.6080200@charter.net>

Jim
I have had many of these leak.
Replacements reservoirs work but some are just as bad as the one that leaks.
I have had new Master Cylinders leak in that location as well.
It's a poor design.
I have had some success using a slightly larger section O-ring in place 
of the square cut rubber seals.
You might want to try that before you buy a reservoir.
Glenn
On 10/29/2012 7:04 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> On my 74 TR6, I have a leak between the master cylinder and its resevoir. It was
> pretty clean but I cleaned it all spotless and used new rubbers between the m/c
> and its resevoir. It still leaks. Has anyone been here on this? I'm wondering if
> I should sand down the 4 attachment points so as to get more pressure on the
> rubbers or is a new resevoir my best option? Thanks for any assistance on this.
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Wed Oct 31 20:54:16 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 19:54:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] John Fitch
Message-ID: <1351738456.92490.YahooMailClassic@web181401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The FOT has been very quiet with many of its members at the VTR Nationals in Galveston Texas. For those who may not have heard, John Fitch passed away this morning. 
With his passing goes a great fighter pilot, sports car driver, Indy car driver, and a member of the Cunningham team at LeMans with Phil Walters during the big crash in '55.
RIP
-Ed-


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Oct 31 21:36:57 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 03:36:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Friendly Hauntings From: FGR.
Message-ID: <mailman.190.1638252574.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

An eerie web forms about now on our cars here in the Midwest.
Drained of their fluid and void of their blood.
Like Vampires, tonight; these Triumphs hunger for lube. A long sleep (perhaps restless) awaits the cold steel and silent horse power of my poor unheated-garage kept mechanical demon. Killing it... on Halloween night, I drain the fluid from my beloved GT6. 
Surely this cold evening, all hallow's eve, might it find a source of life, to get through the long cold wInter?
Happy Halloween.
FRIENDLY GHOST RACING
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T