From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug  1 19:42:01 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 21:42:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 ENGINE    AVAILABLE   FLORENCE, AL
In-Reply-To: <8CF3E4F1FAB241D-1708-1CE4A@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF325AF65E7762-EFC-8FA9@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3BE67B45F9D1-21C8-31D44@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3C0794C85C57-DB0-25729@web-mmc-m03.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3E4F1FAB241D-1708-1CE4A@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF3E67252E2F0B-16F8-92FA@webmail-m145.sysops.aol.com>

Marv Gruber says he has an engine available. I am just passing it along. His
email is below.



-----Original Message-----
From: Mgruber921 <mgruber921 at aol.com>
To: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2012 5:50 pm
Subject: Re: TR3 FRAME?


Joe
bought some more parts this week. Got a TR4a big valve engine in. All
disassembled looks good. Crank bearings are std. Having the head checked
tomorrow. Know anyone wanting a TR4a engine? $400

Marv

From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  1 19:50:11 2012
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 19:50:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
Message-ID: <C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>

I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque  
2014.
The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is  
a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a  
Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good  
choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show  
needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.  
There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in  
1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky  
mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225  
plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four  
star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the  
track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of  
Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the trip.
When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've  
looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is  
still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really  
don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the  
idea.
I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in  
between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and  
through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered  
about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power  
challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is  
not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to  
be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with  
enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more  
track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be  
able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather  
here lasts into early November.
I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid  
info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
Thanks,
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM
On Jul 31, 2012, at 4:58 PM, Walter Hollowell wrote:

> I wish to put in a strong plug for NAPA Speedway in Albuquerque,  
> New Mexico
> for the 2014 Kastner Cup event. We have a nice 1.7 mile 14 corner  
> technical
> road course that my local road race club uses. This track is  
> located right
> off of I-40. The facilities are first class including lots of RV  
> hook-ups.
> New Mexico has lots to offer when visitors are not on the  
> racetrack.  I have
> spoken to one of the owners of the track and he is very supportive of
> hosting this event. You can check out the speedway at:  
> www.napaspeedway.com
> I can be your initial contact on this project if there is any  
> interest. You
> can also check out some club racing at this track at our website:
> www.swms.com
> Thank You for your Consideration
>
> Walt Hollowell
> Albuquerque, New Mexico
> Ph 505 362-4350
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot- 
> bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 1:42 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
>
> Russ Moore has a brilliant plan for TRIUMPHS at MOSPORT in June of
> 2014.........................
>
> Kas and I are targeting dates and a venue that does not conflict  
> with Russ'
> planning.
>
> We are looking at the SOUTH and WEST and in the second half of the
> year....maybe later in the second half of the year.
>
> New tracks are candidates
> Probability of good weather is a plus....no 90 - 100 degree temps  
> FESTIVAL
> EVENTS have never been a requirement.
> We dont need to have 50 TRIUMPHS entered to have a good time..
>
> Geographically, it just isnt possible to satisfy all of North America.
> Having one big event each year has never been a goal.....witness Russ'
> efforts.
>
> I have had two FOT folks step forward for 2014 and both proposals are
> candidates.
> More choices and proposals are requested.
>
> Please step forward.....THANKS!
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot- 
> tr6.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
> lunkercars at earthlink.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug  1 22:26:48 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2012 23:26:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
	<C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.31.1343881458.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

swms.com seems to be a web parking site. so I'm not getting any love 
from it.  www.napaspeedway.com doesn't say anything about when the 
SWMS events are run.

It's about a 20 hour drive for me which may be doable, Mosport is 
just a little closer.  It would be helpful to know about when in the 
year this event could be scheduled for.

I think the main thing needed is to figure out if the date could work 
(to me, depending on normal weather - ie not blazingly hot, Sept / 
Oct / Nov would be good) and determine who would spearhead the 
event.  Sounds like Walt and Lunker are good candidates there.  Of 
course, the Mosport side is still being discussed, so I still 
consider it a tentative event.  That one's in June - it's an awesome 
track to run, I was thinking of going back there in 2013 as the Kas 
Cup is closer to home that year but would delay a year to have a 
return trip coincide with a stronger Triumph showing.  From the 
Napaspeedway site, I'm kinda getting an IRP (Indianapolis Raceway 
Park) vibe - road track that could use a bit more love with an oval 
nestled inside.  Make the front straight also be a drag strip and 
it'd be closer.  I liked that track, too bad we don't go there anymore.

Tony Drews

At 08:50 PM 8/1/2012, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote:
>I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque
>2014.
>The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is
>a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a
>Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good
>choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show
>needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.
>There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in
>1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
>Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky
>mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225
>plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four
>star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the
>track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of
>Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the trip.
>When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've
>looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is
>still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really
>don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the
>idea.
>I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in
>between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and
>through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered
>about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power
>challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is
>not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to
>be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with
>enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more
>track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be
>able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather
>here lasts into early November.
>I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid
>info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
>Thanks,
>Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>TR4 #314
>Albuquerque NM

From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  1 23:04:13 2012
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 23:04:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <201208020027.1sWN0s5Pl3Nl34d1@mx-pinchot.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
	<C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
	<201208020027.1sWN0s5Pl3Nl34d1@mx-pinchot.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <023C9B9D-42DF-4894-BEAF-D1B5302783AB@earthlink.net>

Right you are Tony!
My mistake... go to http://swms.org/ . NAPA Speedway is a fairly new  
entity - might not be too useful yet for web info.
As I understand, the Mosport event is Triumph oriented to the max but  
not the site of the 2014 Kas Cup.
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM

On Aug 1, 2012, at 10:26 PM, Tony Drews wrote:

> swms.com seems to be a web parking site. so I'm not getting any  
> love from it.  www.napaspeedway.com doesn't say anything about when  
> the SWMS events are run.
>
> It's about a 20 hour drive for me which may be doable, Mosport is  
> just a little closer.  It would be helpful to know about when in  
> the year this event could be scheduled for.
>
> I think the main thing needed is to figure out if the date could  
> work (to me, depending on normal weather - ie not blazingly hot,  
> Sept / Oct / Nov would be good) and determine who would spearhead  
> the event.  Sounds like Walt and Lunker are good candidates there.   
> Of course, the Mosport side is still being discussed, so I still  
> consider it a tentative event.  That one's in June - it's an  
> awesome track to run, I was thinking of going back there in 2013 as  
> the Kas Cup is closer to home that year but would delay a year to  
> have a return trip coincide with a stronger Triumph showing.  From  
> the Napaspeedway site, I'm kinda getting an IRP (Indianapolis  
> Raceway Park) vibe - road track that could use a bit more love with  
> an oval nestled inside.  Make the front straight also be a drag  
> strip and it'd be closer.  I liked that track, too bad we don't go  
> there anymore.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 08:50 PM 8/1/2012, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote:
>> I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque
>> 2014.
>> The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is
>> a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a
>> Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good
>> choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show
>> needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.
>> There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in
>> 1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
>> Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky
>> mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225
>> plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four
>> star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the
>> track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of
>> Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the  
>> trip.
>> When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've
>> looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is
>> still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really
>> don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the
>> idea.
>> I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in
>> between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and
>> through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered
>> about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power
>> challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is
>> not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to
>> be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with
>> enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more
>> track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be
>> able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather
>> here lasts into early November.
>> I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid
>> info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
>> Thanks,
>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>> TR4 #314
>> Albuquerque NM

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Aug  2 08:05:40 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:05:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP 2014 VENUE SELECTION by PROPOSAL a request.
Message-ID: <8CF3ECF085BFD38-2044-24D97@webmail-d055.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

Thanks for the responses and observations. Now down to business.

It looks like we are ripe for running the KASTNER CUP at a smaller venue with
a hardy band of local Triumph Racers leading the way.

We have had some great events at the larger storied venues. Kas senses it is
time to go back to grassroots basics for a race among ourselves without the
distractions of a big 'festival' events

ONE PAGE PROPOSALS wanted:

VENUE
SANCTIONING BODY
PROPOSED EVENT
DATES
ENTRY FEE ESTIMATE
LINKS TO RELEVANT INFORMATION

Expectations are that we have a stand alone KASTNER CUP RACE with at least one
practice session within our group. Kas Kastner might be considered GRAND
MARSHALL for the weekend.

The availability of a dedicated paddock area for the Triumphs would be a
reasonable expectation and a 20 x 20  'Hospitality Tent' or area would be a
plus.

A destination location with some of the features listed is good, along with a
proposed host hotel.

Selection might take place by AUGUST 2013 in time to be announced at the
Kastner Cup 2012 at Road America.  Does this planning seem a bit early? No. It
takes a lot of planning and organization to do this right.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From jason at multivintage.com  Thu Aug  2 15:54:53 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
Message-ID: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Triumph Friends,

I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
GT6.
The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

From clw2000 at msn.com  Thu Aug  2 16:06:39 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 18:06:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>

Jason -

This guy has something of a Triumph graveyard.  I'm sure they would need
rebuilding, but if you're desperate try him:

Don Trammel - 864-787-0622

Thanks,

Chuck Watson


Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers
Columbia, Greenville, Spartanburg & Lexington, SC









> Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
>
> Hello Triumph Friends,
>
> I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
> GT6.
> The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
> I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com

From list at mackenzie.aero  Thu Aug  2 16:19:21 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 17:19:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004501cd70fc$dde08200$99a18600$@aero>

Joe Curto has a set of Euro spec 150 he tried to sell me not too long ago.

Joe Curto, Inc.
22-09 126th Street
College Point, NY 11356
(718)762-SUSU (7878)
Joecurto.com


Robert Mackenzie
Austin TX



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Charles WATSON
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 5:07 PM
To: jason at multivintage.com; FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs

Jason -

This guy has something of a Triumph graveyard.  I'm sure they would need
rebuilding, but if you're desperate try him:

Don Trammel - 864-787-0622

Thanks,

Chuck Watson


Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers
Columbia, Greenville, Spartanburg & Lexington, SC









> Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
>
> Hello Triumph Friends,
>
> I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
> GT6.
> The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
> I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/list at mackenzie.aero

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Aug  3 07:37:20 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 09:37:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com>
	<8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Aug  3 08:50:56 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 10:50:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com><8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com><CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com><8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>

SPEC Clutches in Birmingham AL has many different types of racing clutches
for TR's 2 - 8.  The one in my TR3 with a close ratio gear set is a stage 3
paddle type.   Remember, the splines on a close ratio are different than a
stock box.  


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 9:37 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Aug  3 08:53:59 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 10:53:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com><8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com><CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com><8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <8CF3F9EF267909F-1A68-1C6F6@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>

yes....we have CR box and TREVOR built to our spec.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: john hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: 'Joe Alexander' <n197tr4 at cs.com>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Aug 3, 2012 9:51 am
Subject: RE: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW


SPEC Clutches in Birmingham AL has many different types of racing clutches
for TR's 2 - 8.  The one in my TR3 with a close ratio gear set is a stage 3
paddle type.   Remember, the splines on a close ratio are different than a
stock box.


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 9:37 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 14:03:38 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 14:03:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
Message-ID: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>

That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From mnewman at embarqmail.com  Fri Aug  3 14:35:13 2012
From: mnewman at embarqmail.com (William T newman)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 16:35:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1592909033.362764.1344026113870.JavaMail.root@md23.embarq.synacor.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 02 Aug 2012 17:54:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
Jason:
I have a stock GT6 manifold with Strombergs in my storage. I don't know the year, but will let them go for cheap. Make me an offer off list or call me at 239-229-5766.
Bill Newman 
#44 GT6

Hello Triumph Friends,

I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
GT6.
The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mnewman at embarqmail.com

From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Aug  3 16:28:02 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 15:28:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>
References: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDHzRORD-jznRcbdYmaphpTquAoaVr5twd1y68twQeAig@mail.gmail.com>

Not if ... WHEN

On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost
> parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it to
> Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're looking for
> things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B posts.
>
> So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying another
> my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The celebration may be
> short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.
>
> Somberly,
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/triosan@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com>
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 17:15:59 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 17:15:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sad Day - I sold a Triumph
Message-ID: <C7C79163-97A8-459D-B25C-AAE246689B21@comcast.net>

That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived though if (more like when) I buy a  
vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug  4 02:22:02 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2012 02:22:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Way behind
Message-ID: <501CDBAA.4000804@bradakis.com>

I'm way behind in dealing with my email.  If there are outstanding 
nominations,
queries, problems, etc. I will be working on getting caught up over the 
weekend.

mjb.

From grmtim at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 06:57:07 2012
From: grmtim at aol.com (Timothy Suddard)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 08:57:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at RM Auctions
In-Reply-To: <4FED1434.3000208@bradakis.com>
References: <1236236296-1340723843-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2103436145-@b5.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<8CF21CA1DCCD28C-CF8-19212@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd53c4$e5c94240$b15bc6c0$@rr.com> <4FEA4E00.2060004@pobox.com>
	<4FECE7E5.6080402@pobox.com> <4FED1434.3000208@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CF4057C985B47B-15F4-2F2C8@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com>

As many of you already know, I have the Group 44, Inc. GT6+ listed at the RM
Auction in Monterey. It is lot #205 and will be the fifth car out on Saturday
night, August 18th. I donbt need to keep two race cars and have two kids
heading to college starting this fall. Yes, my son Tommy, who many of you also
know, is heading to my and Margie's alma mater, Stetson University, to study
family business, so he can take over the magazines someday. I also need to be
looking for the next car to write about. That is the nature of my world.That
said, I will most likely never sell my beloved TR3 and we plan on racing it at
Lime Rock, Labor Day weekend.

While I got some very strong offers for the GT6, I really donbt know what it
is worth and decided the fairest thing to do, both for the Triumph community
and for my family was to put it up for public auction, (with no reserve, by
the way) and let the chips fall where they may. I believe Saturday night, at
Monterey RM, is the best venue for this car. The restoration and history are
very openly and (hopefully) well documented in Classic Motorsports and now at
our website:
http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1969-triumph-group-44-gt6/

If you have serious interest please call me at: (386 239-0523) or email me at
tim at grassrootsmotorsports.com. A link to the RM Catalog is:
http://www.rmauctions.com/digitalcatalogs/2012/MO12/

I will obviously be at the auction Saturday night, if you want to say hi or
talk Triumphs. I want to thank everyone on the list who helped me with the car
and let everyone know, I am not going anywhere, just going back to my TR3 and
maybe looking for a TR4 next.

Obviously with no reserve, I am a bit nervous. Please help me spread the word,
talk up the car and bid high and often. You can bid online, or in advance via
email or phone, I believe.

From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Aug  4 12:34:46 2012
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 18:34:46 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Fw: TR4 Sale
Message-ID: <2019432003-1344105288-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1952047352-@b28.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Hello team... Just forwarding this along... nfi.
Mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2012 10:16:26 
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>
Subject: Re: TR4 Sale

*OK Here goes!*
*TR4 sale-1962 RACE CAR*
*VERY FAST,NEWLY RESTORED,(driver/owner retiring) ALL SPARES AND 20FT
ENCLOSED TRAILER INCL. MANY NEW PARTS,NEWLY SAND BLASTED AND PAINTED!*
*Ready to race in  all vintage clubs and events--must see*
*ALAN PINEL770- 337-2967 OR alanlpinel.pinel @ gmail.com
*
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 9:27 AM, <gasket.works at gte.net> wrote:

> **
> Alan;
> Nice... But, I can't forward a document nor A photo. If you incorporate
> your document in an email without an attachment I will send it. Make sure
> you put contact info.
>
> Mordy.
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> ------------------------------
> *From: * Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
> *Date: *Sat, 04 Aug 2012 06:42:57 -0700
> *To: *<gasket.works at gte.net>
> *Subject: *Re: TR4 Sale
>
> *OK thanks!*
> *
> *
> On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 12:14 PM, <gasket.works at gte.net> wrote:
>
>> **
>> If you list what you are selling I will forward it to the friends of
>> triumph. Include your contact info. I can only forward text no photo's. A
>> link to photo's can be forwarded if yu have such.
>> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: * Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
>> *Date: *Fri, 03 Aug 2012 11:56:37 -0700
>> *To: *<gasket.works at gte.net>
>> *Subject: *TR4 Sale
>>
>> *I am trying to sell my race car! Whatsite do I go on?*
>> *Thanks*
>> *Alan*

From robertten1 at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 17:54:46 2012
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:54:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
Message-ID: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the dyno
shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
engine.

To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in engine
note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked the
timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs around
and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no change
in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections at
the battery.

I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The Mallory
is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a leak-down
test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem I
would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder to
verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from Kas
)

I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place )
reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???

I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made some
changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2 step
leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But no
change to effect the misfire problem.

And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs just
no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??

So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one here
suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem


Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
A/E flat top pistons  +.040
Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
10/10 crank polished and balanced
Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
Duplex timing chain set-up
Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold


Stumpdified,
Bob T.

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  4 18:35:44 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:35:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1C79832D-5AB0-49E2-A3D4-6740C1183A9B@gmail.com>

Bob,

You mentioned that there is spark going to the plugs -- but were you able to
determine whether the plugs themselves are actually producing a visible spark?
If you removed those plugs, reconnected the wires, and then laid them on the
engine so that they could find ground, and still saw a spark, it would seem
you've completely eliminated that unless there is some way the current is
going to ground without creating a spark at the plug electrodes.

At any rate, it would be interesting to find out what you'd see if you used a
Colortune plug on one of the bad cylinders vs. one of the good cylinders.

If you're getting fire and compression, it would seem that the only variable
left would be fuel/air in or out of those two cylinders.  Any chance either
intake or exhaust manifold is restricted on those two cylinders?  #1 and #4
are connected via the tri-Y, right?...

The Weber sends one throat to #1 and #2, and the other to #3 and #4, right?

One more idea that's a bit far-fetched.  Any chance the cam lobes for #1 and
#4 are very differently shaped from those on #2 and #3?  You'd see normal
valve lash and get compression, but perhaps the valves are not opening very
far or for very long, which could affect power.  You might find it interesting
to put a degree wheel on the engine and see what the valve timing is like for
each individual cylinder.

Duncan
(Texas)


On Aug 4, 2012, at 6:54 PM, robertten1 at aol.com wrote:

> Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the
dyno
> shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
> hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
> engine.
>
> To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in
engine
> note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
the
> timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
around
> and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
change
> in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
at
> the battery.
>
> I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
> other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
> PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
Mallory
> is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
> problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
> both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.
>
> I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a
leak-down
> test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem
I
> would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
> cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
to
> verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from
Kas
> )
>
> I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place
)
> reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
> started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???
>
> I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
some
> changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
> Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
> screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2
step
> leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
no
> change to effect the misfire problem.
>
> And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
just
> no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
> performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??
>
> So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
here
> suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem
>
>
> Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
> A/E flat top pistons  +.040
> Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
> 6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
> 10/10 crank polished and balanced
> Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
> Duplex timing chain set-up
> Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
> Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
> Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold
>
>
> Stumpdified,
> Bob T.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Aug  4 20:51:37 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 21:51:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>

Have you tried the old trick of spraying carb cleaner around the intake
manifold and carb mounting on #1 and #4 to see if you somehow have a massive
intake leak causing a very lean mixture and the misfire?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of robertten1 at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 6:55 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net; net at newenglandtriumphs.org; nedyno at gmail.co
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2

Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the dyno
shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
engine.

To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in engine
note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
the
timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
around
and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
change
in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
at
the battery.

I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
Mallory
is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a leak-down
test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem
I
would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
to
verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from Kas
)

I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place )
reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???

I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
some
changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2 step
leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
no
change to effect the misfire problem.

And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
just
no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??

So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
here
suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem


Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
A/E flat top pistons  +.040
Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
10/10 crank polished and balanced
Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
Duplex timing chain set-up
Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold


Stumpdified,
Bob T.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From tr6driver at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  4 21:23:31 2012
From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 23:23:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
	<000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>
Message-ID: <6AAE981C-B19B-420B-8C9D-7DD2D9C1F3E4@yahoo.com>

Experienced this today with a tr6 engine startup.  Check your valve clearances
on 1 and 4.  Lack of compression = lack of firing.  We had valves too tight.
Took us 3-4 hours to figure it out...

Jamie Palmer


On Aug 4, 2012, at 10:51 PM, "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com> wrote:

> Have you tried the old trick of spraying carb cleaner around the intake
> manifold and carb mounting on #1 and #4 to see if you somehow have a
massive
> intake leak causing a very lean mixture and the misfire?
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of robertten1 at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 6:55 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net; net at newenglandtriumphs.org; nedyno at gmail.co
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the
dyno
> shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
> hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
> engine.
>
> To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in
engine
> note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
> the
> timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
> around
> and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
> change
> in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
> at
> the battery.
>
> I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
> other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
> PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
> Mallory
> is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
> problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
> both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.
>
> I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a
leak-down
> test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a
problem
> I
> would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
> cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
> to
> verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from
Kas
> )
>
> I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place
)
> reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
> started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???
>
> I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
> some
> changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
> Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
> screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2
step
> leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
> no
> change to effect the misfire problem.
>
> And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
> just
> no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
> performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??
>
> So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
> here
> suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem
>
>
> Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
> A/E flat top pistons  +.040
> Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
> 6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
> 10/10 crank polished and balanced
> Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
> Duplex timing chain set-up
> Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
> Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
> Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold
>
>
> Stumpdified,
> Bob T.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com

From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Aug  6 17:27:23 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
Message-ID: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

From cartravel at pobox.com  Mon Aug  6 17:52:20 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2012 18:52:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
Message-ID: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>

This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had 
a problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back 
in the 1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many 
ignition configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During 
recent rebuild, I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot 
spots and of course all the carbon has been removed, but the problem 
still persists.  There is additional tuning I should and will do such as 
carb rebuilds, carb needles, timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect 
this problem will continue.  The solution for later Triumphs and other 
British cars was the anti run-on valve.  It appears that the simplest 
retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 valve.  Basically, the 
valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods the manifold with 
air making the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where do I find 
one of these valves?  They do not appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
Larry

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Aug  6 20:26:36 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 19:26:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1344306396.63242.YahooMailClassic@web181401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Jason: Helpful hint for the future...sorry it comes too late. I use a hole saw
and drill the rubber and center tube out. Then I use a hacksaw blade (you
could use an air driven hacksaw) and cut through the outer tube. One cut is
usually enough; sometimes it takes two cuts. That allows the tube to
collaspe.  To put the new ones in, I bevel the leading edge and smear
anti-seize on the the metal outside. A press makes these go right in.
Again, sorry you had a less then joyful day.
-Ed- 

--- On Mon, 8/6/12, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:


From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, August 6, 2012, 6:27 PM


Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net

From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Aug  6 20:30:28 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 02:30:28 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>

In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would cure
the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:52:20 -0500
> From: cartravel at pobox.com
> To: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
>
> This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had
> a problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back
> in the 1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many
> ignition configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During
> recent rebuild, I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot
> spots and of course all the carbon has been removed, but the problem
> still persists.  There is additional tuning I should and will do such as
> carb rebuilds, carb needles, timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect
> this problem will continue.  The solution for later Triumphs and other
> British cars was the anti run-on valve.  It appears that the simplest
> retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 valve.  Basically, the
> valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods the manifold with
> air making the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where do I find
> one of these valves?  They do not appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Aug  6 20:30:34 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 19:30:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <1344306634.24240.YahooMailClassic@web181406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Larry: Send me your address and one will miraculously appear in your mail box
from the run-on gods.
Life is good:O)
-ED-

--- On Mon, 8/6/12, Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com> wrote:


From: Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com>
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, August 6, 2012, 6:52 PM


This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had a
problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back in the
1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many ignition
configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During recent rebuild,
I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot spots and of course
all the carbon has been removed, but the problem still persists.  There is
additional tuning I should and will do such as carb rebuilds, carb needles,
timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect this problem will continue.  The
solution for later Triumphs and other British cars was the anti run-on valve. 
It appears that the simplest retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535
valve.  Basically, the valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods
the manifold with air making the mixture too weak to support combustion. 
Where do I find one of these valves?  They do not
 appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net

From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Aug  6 22:03:04 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 21:03:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <1344312184.16300.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

With my TR6 there is still a bit of run on even with the valve.  It doesn't
seem 
to be the end of the world to kill it with a combination of clutch
out brake 
in.  Jim




________________________________
From: Larry Young
<cartravel at pobox.com>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, August 6, 2012 5:13:08
PM
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535

This question is not of interest
to racers, but my street TR250 has had a 
problem with run-on or dieseling
since leaded premium went away back in the 
1980s.  This has continued through
several carb rebuilds, many ignition 
configuration changes and recently an
engine rebuild.  During recent rebuild, I 
tried to remove any sharp areas
that might create hot spots and of course all 
the carbon has been removed,
but the problem still persists.  There is 
additional tuning I should and will
do such as carb rebuilds, carb needles, 
timing advance curves, etc., but I
suspect this problem will continue.  The 
solution for later Triumphs and
other British cars was the anti run-on valve.  
It appears that the simplest
retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 
valve.  Basically, the valve
opens when the ignition is turned off and floods 
the manifold with air making
the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where 
do I find one of these
valves?  They do not appear to be available except on 
ebay.uk.
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug  7 00:00:43 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 06:00:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.34.1344319093.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug  7 03:05:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 02:05:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <20120807060945.E279B2D0764@autox.team.net>
References: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<20120807060945.E279B2D0764@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <16e601cd747b$c3969ec0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which 
> slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. 

Something to watch for, though, not all new bearings are the same thickness
as the old ones.  I opened a pair of diff carrier bearings the other day
that were not only both different than the originals, but different from
each other!  

I've ordered another pair from a different source, supposedly Timken brand
this time, maybe they'll be better.  But last time I went through this, the
input bearing was different by roughly .030" and they were both Timkens.

-- Randall  

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Tue Aug  7 07:28:11 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 06:28:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <20120807060928.250F22D0748@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Chris:
I believe one of us is mistaken in what Jason was doing. I'm under the impression the he was replacing the mounting bushings on the rear of a Spit/GT6 pumpkin. I think you believe he was replacing the carrier bearings.
Either way, he's over the hump and it's well earned smiles now and something to talk about in the paddock on a Saturday night.
-Ed-

--- On Tue, 8/7/12, tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:


From: tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>, fot-bounces at autox.team.net, "triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2012, 1:00 AM


Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug  7 07:58:48 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 15:58:48 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <20120807060928.250F22D0748@autox.team.net>
	<1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002e01cd74a4$c5e4b0d0$51ae1270$@com>

I think you are right.

I was on the wrong path.

 

Von: EDWARD BARNARD [mailto:edwardbarnard at prodigy.net] 
Gesendet: Dienstag, 7. August 2012 15:28
An: Jason Ostrowski; triumph friends; tr4racing at googlemail.com
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential

 


Chris:

I believe one of us is mistaken in what Jason was doing. I'm under the
impression the he was replacing the mounting bushings on the rear of a
Spit/GT6 pumpkin. I think you believe he was replacing the carrier bearings.
Either way, he's over the hump and it's well earned smiles now and something
to talk about in the paddock on a Saturday night.

-Ed-


--- On Tue, 8/7/12, tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
wrote:


From: tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>, fot-bounces at autox.team.net,
"triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2012, 1:00 AM

Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times
are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff
without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the
final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=jason at multivintage.com> >
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.netDat
e> : Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net> 

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/> 

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http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/> 

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From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  7 10:08:41 2012
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 09:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1344355721.27100.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web122202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

  http://spsp2.free.fr/foxnews.board.php?yahoo=gydjzix&lucky=84comxepamjrygomailzaselugo&lng=en

From cartravel at pobox.com  Tue Aug  7 11:37:28 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 12:37:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
	<SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <50215258.40100@pobox.com>

I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might 
get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still 
occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.  
I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and 
would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I 
was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it 
didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it 
requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The 
ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it 
could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll 
be glad to take it off your hands.
Larry

On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would 
> cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.

From riverside at southslope.net  Tue Aug  7 12:22:59 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:22:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <50215258.40100@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com><SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
	<50215258.40100@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <660C1957BDA74575917FE17E6359005A@rileyPC>

the refusal to achieve a slower idle speed makes me suspect a vacuum leak.


art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Larry Young
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:37 PM
To: Kas Kastner
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535

I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might
get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still
occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.
I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and
would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I
was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it
didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it
requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The
ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it
could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll
be glad to take it off your hands.
Larry

On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would
> cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5183 - Release Date: 08/07/12 

From pcdelux at verizon.net  Tue Aug  7 14:30:19 2012
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (William Dewar)
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 16:30:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com><SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
	<50215258.40100@pobox.com> <660C1957BDA74575917FE17E6359005A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <002e01cd74db$770b1fd0$2101a8c0@usera1aa7i3nf0>

The later cars that used the anti-runon had carbs that were plumbed
differently than the 68-71 versions. They also had a different oil pressure
switch to momentarily activate anti-run on shut down. I do not have a TR6
manual handy but looking at the emissions and wiring diagram on a 75-76 TR6
should explain it.I don't think it was designed just to cause a large vacuum
leak but to mess with the vacuum-pressure balance in the carb behind the
throttle plate. You probably can make it work on an earlier carb setup, just
not exactly as designed for the later one. They also had much lower
compression which probably aided shut down. It would be interesting to hear
if any one on the list has made it work on an early car.

Bill DeWar
NJTA
----- Original Message -----
From: <riverside at southslope.net>
To: "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com>; "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535


> the refusal to achieve a slower idle speed makes me suspect a vacuum leak.
>
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Young
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:37 PM
> To: Kas Kastner
> Cc: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
>
> I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might
> get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still
> occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.
> I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and
> would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I
> was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it
> didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it
> requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The
> ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it
> could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll
> be glad to take it off your hands.
> Larry
>
> On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> > In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would
> > cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5183 - Release Date: 08/07/12
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pcdelux at verizon.net

From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Thu Aug  9 14:10:55 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 16:10:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] for sale-R&P set/TR pistons
Message-ID: <007001cd766b$158c0ad0$40a42070$@rr.com>

WTS:

I have a new in the box ring and pinion gear set I am selling to finance
another small project. This is a 3.7:1 ratio and is new in the box. I would
like to sell it for $450.

This fits the TR-2 through the TR-6.

 

 

Also a set of 4 new in the box AE Hepolite pistons for TR3-4 in a 86MM+.020"
size. These are in the original box and are complete with rings; pins and
clips. Part number is 12655 or later was 113560. I am asking $240 for these,
again to fund another British based project. It's an addiction!

 

Please contact me privately if you are interested or have questions. 

 

Russ Moore

Spitfire #49

From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Mon Aug 13 01:12:25 2012
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 17:12:25 +1000
Subject: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Listers,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for TR6 Fiberglass panels? I think we had a
discussion about 'quality' suppliers some time ago? But can't recall the
general consensus or outcome.

 

Many thanks

 

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4

_______________________________________________

 <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> fot at autox.team.net

 

 <http://www.fot-racing.com> http://www.fot-racing.com

 

Donate:  <http://www.team.net/donate.html> http://www.team.net/donate.html

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 13 01:46:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 09:46:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <001301cd7927$b8ec45f0$2ac4d1d0$@com>

I buy my parts here:

http://www.honeybournemouldings.co.uk/default.htm

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Peter Vucinic
Gesendet: Montag, 13. August 2012 09:12
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels

Listers,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for TR6 Fiberglass panels? I think we had a
discussion about 'quality' suppliers some time ago? But can't recall the
general consensus or outcome.



Many thanks



Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4

_______________________________________________

 <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> fot at autox.team.net



 <http://www.fot-racing.com> http://www.fot-racing.com



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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon Aug 13 10:15:36 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 12:15:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] thinning the herd. so to speak
Message-ID: <004201cd796e$df83e960$9e8bbc20$@rr.com>

I have a 40 year old stash (hoarded!) of TR-3 and TR-4/4A/250 sheetmetal. I
will cut some loose to fund the next British restoration "adventure" if
anyone is interested. Realize it is NOT economically feasible to ship a
TR-250 hood to Oregon....... Possibly could relay panels through other
racers, exchanging at events.

 

Please contact me off line if interested or with questions and let me know
what you're looking for.

 

TR-3/4 pistons are sold, taking offers on the New in Box ring and pinion
gear set for TR2-6.

 

Russ Moore

From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon Aug 13 13:57:35 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 15:57:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: thinning the herd. so to speak
Message-ID: <009401cd798d$e28662e0$a79328a0$@rr.com>

Sorry, I forgot to mention I am located in upstate NY (14817). This is about
28 miles from Watkins Glen where there is a vintage race in September (SVRA)
and also one in October (VRG).

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 12:16 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] thinning the herd. so to speak

I have a 40 year old stash (hoarded!) of TR-3 and TR-4/4A/250 sheetmetal. I
will cut some loose to fund the next British restoration "adventure" if
anyone is interested. Realize it is NOT economically feasible to ship a
TR-250 hood to Oregon....... Possibly could relay panels through other
racers, exchanging at events.

 

Please contact me off line if interested or with questions and let me know
what you're looking for.

 

TR-3/4 pistons are sold, taking offers on the New in Box ring and pinion
gear set for TR2-6.

 

Russ Moore
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From craigl at leinickegroup.com  Tue Aug 14 08:24:23 2012
From: craigl at leinickegroup.com (Craig Leinicke)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:24:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Parts For Sale
Message-ID: <CC4FC9C7.E307%craigl@leinickegroup.com>

TR6 Parts for Sale

1972 TR6 roller fitted with 4 fiberglass fenders, fiberglass rockers, and
fiberglass rear cowl, still in gel coat. Highly modified rear suspension.
Hubs modified for oversize rotors and calipers. $500 Clear title in hand.

TR6 differential center section set up with Detroit Locker limited slip and
4.1 gear set. Condition is probably NOS. $1000. (plus shipping)

Craig Leinicke
Flashback Racing
(636) 236-8452
Ellisville, MO

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 11:03:48 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 13:03:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
Message-ID: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>

Amici,

Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

From riverside at southslope.net  Tue Aug 14 13:44:57 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 14:44:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
In-Reply-To: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>
References: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <800E7E463EE94FABB9A18BEE1FDD9922@rileyPC>

I think that date is the ChumpCar race at Iowa Speedway in Newton.
I will be there as crew for Team Quadrifoolio.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Doug Mitchell
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:03 PM
To: Fot
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS

Amici,

Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net





-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5197 - Release Date: 08/13/12 

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 14:15:21 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
Message-ID: <3eokmk7s4a5a43kxsjwy6c9b.1344975321526@email.android.com>

There are races at both locations. According to the ChumpCar site, the race at Iowa is a 24 hour one, while the race at MIS is a double 7.

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

riverside at southslope.net wrote:

>I think that date is the ChumpCar race at Iowa Speedway in Newton.
>I will be there as crew for Team Quadrifoolio.
>
>art de armond
>
>-----Original Message----- 
>From: Doug Mitchell
>Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:03 PM
>To: Fot
>Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
>
>Amici,
>
>Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Doug Mitchell
>dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
>
>Sent from my ASUS Pad
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5197 - Release Date: 08/13/12 

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Aug 14 14:52:10 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:52:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] clutch discs and John Clancy's DVD's
Message-ID: <502ABA7A.90405@bright.net>

FOT list.  Last week or or so there was some discussion of competition 
and high performance clutch discs. We have sold these for several 
years.  Here is a list of clutch discs, lining and styles.

Solid center (no take up springs) - 8 1/2" diameter - full circle 
organic lining - $135*
Solid center paddle style - 4 paddle (6 1/2") - $100; 6 paddle (8 1/2") 
- $135*
Spring center clutch with thicker metal web to hold friction material 
(metal holding friction material won't tear out) and HD take up springs 
- $150  (good high perf. street or autocross)
* available with 1 1/4" 10 spline center or 1" 23 spline for CR gear 
set. Add $40 for Kevlar lining.

We stock the entire range, including California Air, of John Clancy's 
DVD's. These are listed on our website.  John and his wife used our 
booth at The Mitty a central place to display (and sell) John's range of 
DVD's. Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 15 07:09:53 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:09:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] SCCA RUNOFFS SEPTEMBER 2012 SAM HALKIAS and ???
Message-ID: <8CF48FE65098631-159C-1EF76@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

I know that SAM HALKIAS   TR6    will be running on Saturday of the RUNOFFS.

Anyone else running?

Brendan Alexander approached me about going for at least Saturday.  How could
I say no?

Anyone else going?


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 15 07:33:19 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:33:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
Message-ID: <mailman.41.1345037444.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?

Cheers, Tony Drews

From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Aug 15 07:53:20 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:53:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
Message-ID: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/15/2012 8:36:54 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tony at tonydrews.com writes:


> Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?
> 

The Beady Eye Vintage Triumph Racing Team will be there (in all its glory). 
 I'll be in my TR3, Bob Wismer will race his TR4.

Bill Dentinger

From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Aug 15 17:31:02 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 18:31:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
In-Reply-To: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>
References: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYr3rAmK4oQDhdDKp2C7BqDNeT-+Rz3-qaNEZxEPWSrfMg@mail.gmail.com>

IT KILLS ME TO NOT BE RACING AT MY FAVORITE TRACK... GRATTAN.
I'm done for the season.... out of money and out of TRANSMISSIONS. got the
family to think about and all.
I can't miss it though.
I'll be there to support my buddies.
I'm coming to offer Triumph support, drink beer, and do some fishing.
See you there.... and don't hesitate to ask me to help with anything guys!
Friendly Ghost Racing.....At Your Service!

Jason.

On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:53 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 08/15/2012 8:36:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
> tony at tonydrews.com writes:
>
>
> > Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?
> >
>
> The Beady Eye Vintage Triumph Racing Team will be there (in all its glory).
>  I'll be in my TR3, Bob Wismer will race his TR4.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com

From trdoctor at aol.com  Wed Aug 15 21:03:16 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 22:03:16 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Linkage Adjustment
Message-ID: <DBDC83EA-8634-40FD-9C7B-BB1816A2F1E2@aol.com>

Recently I have posted questions looking for solutions of obtaining full
throttle opening on my GT6 with a center pull cable accelerator arrangement
(MKIII).  So far, no joy.  So . . .   I have a new question.  I have obtained
full throttle opening with my '72 TR6 by adjusting the linkage from the cross
shaft to the carbs by shortening the linkage rod from the cross shaft to the
bell crank (does this make sense?).  I now have full opening but the pedal is
way high.  Has anyone figured out how to lower the pedal by adjusting the
linkage from the bell crank to the carbs, or, do I just have to live with it?
TIA
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs

From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 15 22:57:29 2012
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 21:57:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Jeremy Foley Crash - Pikes Peak International Hill Climb
 2012
References: <6AD58084-4A47-4265-8FEA-2EC5FEB730EF@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EA3FC26C-3791-430D-ACC4-1C8B1531C78B@yahoo.com>

>From the Pikes Peak Hill Climb last weekend.  Hang on!

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: At <tysno1gal at yahoo.com>
> Date: August 14, 2012 6:12:36 PM PDT
> To: Ty Thompson <tylerpthompson at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Jeremy Foley Crash - Pikes Peak International Hill Climb 2012
>
> Check out this video on YouTube:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEUrEPPABbY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>
>
> Sent from my iPad

From robertten1 at aol.com  Sat Aug 18 21:02:09 2012
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 23:02:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfire final chapter
Message-ID: <8CF4BCE285392BC-1684-A9665@webmail-d144.sysops.aol.com>

Amici,

I thank all who responded to request for help.  My problem has been solved
after a couple phone calls -  Thanks to Mr Cline and Mr. Lang.  To my
embarrassment I have to admit that this mechanic timed the cam incorrectly.
With a little education about cam lobes in relation to cylinders and the order
of suck,squish, bang and blow.  And a miss understanding of the note about the
cam timing on Mr Cline's cam, all has been corrected and the engine is firing
correctly.

Looking forward to September to get to drive my Spit in anger as my entry into
the autocross season comes late.  A couple hours on the chassis dyno has me
feeling comfortable to push my car in competition.

Cheers to all,
Bob T

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 13:06:18 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 13:06:18 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph factory race cars?
Message-ID: <8AED25EC-29C4-4E1F-A66B-A104E349CF34@comcast.net>

List,

Did Triumph factory race cars have a VIN? Did they have a title?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 19 15:06:34 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 16:06:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <mailman.42.1345410238.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is 
for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd 
be willing to part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower 
trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Aug 19 16:11:10 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 18:11:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>

I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
be willing to part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From emanteno at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 16:37:35 2012
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 17:37:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
	<8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>

250's use different vertical links than 4's.
On Aug 19, 2012 5:11 PM, "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
> Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> be willing to part with?
>
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Aug 19 21:35:38 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 20:35:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The 4A, 250, and 6 should be the same, but they have different amount of
camber from the 2,3,4; a function of the angle between the threaded part of
the link and the eye for the balljoint. The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became sided, R/H and L/H,
and added 3 degrees camber.
-Ed-

--- On Sun, 8/19/12, Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
To: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 5:37 PM


250's use different vertical links than 4's.
On Aug 19, 2012 5:11 PM, "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
> Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> be willing to part with?
>
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/emanteno at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 19 22:06:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 21:06:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>

> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became 
> sided, R/H and L/H,
> and added 3 degrees camber.

I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All but
very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball joint,
etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.

-- Randall  

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 23:10:30 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 23:10:30 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <mailman.43.1345439784.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

I thought the later trunnion added castor.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 10:06 PM
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became 
> sided, R/H and L/H,
> and added 3 degrees camber.

I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All but
very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball joint,
etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 19 23:40:01 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 22:40:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <0E.9C.29711.9C8C1305@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
References: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<0E.9C.29711.9C8C1305@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <009801cd7e96$3ea57f40$0601a8c0@randall>

> I thought the later trunnion added castor.

Sorry, you're right, I meant castor.

-- Randall  

From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 19 23:50:57 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 00:50:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820051840.CE9C02D02CD@autox.team.net>
References: <20120820051840.CE9C02D02CD@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D080A0EE-C7D0-4E7D-84A5-7FE3373BD6F7@sbcglobal.net>

Yes - 3 degrees of castor was added to the TR4 with right and left specific
trunnions and the asymmetrical upper control arms.
The vertical link and trunnion have no effect on camber.

On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:10 AM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> I thought the later trunnion added castor.
> jim g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 10:06 PM
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
>> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became
>> sided, R/H and L/H,
>> and added 3 degrees camber.
>
> I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All
but
> very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
> trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball
joint,
> etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 01:32:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:32:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>

Tony,

you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
replaced to do that.

I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
I can send photos if you like.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tony Drews
Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Mon Aug 20 02:29:28 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 01:29:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

My '71 GT6 race car continues to vex...

After having the engine blow, and then be rebuilt, it broke a rocker arm at
Willow Springs in practice. Bent the #1 valve a bit too.  Took the head off
and had a pretty reputable cylinder head rebuilder go through it. He found
that the engine builder had not installed the set screw that keeps the rocker
shaft in line with the oil feed hole in the upright. Hence, under-lubrication
to the forward end of the rocker shaft. He replaced one valve, all the
rockers, and the rocker shaft which was scored. Surfaced the head too.  We
installed the head last week, Torqued gradually in sequence @ 15 lb ft, then
25, then 45.  Adjusted the valves, and decided to do a compression rest just
for fun. (used a Payen head gasket)

What we found was interesting, but not good: #1 cylinder @ 170; #2 @ 120;
#4,4,5 @ 140; #6 @ 170 psi. this on a rebuilt engine with two hours run time
before failure...  The compression test was done without the intake on the
car, so it hasn't run yet. The cylinder head guru said to run it, and then
recheck. We'll also do a leakdown test then.

Any speculation? First thing that comes to mind is a not flat head or block,
of course. Then rings?

Ed

From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 07:02:28 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:02:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
References: <5C8E4E0E-C90F-4836-AE1D-019C2C697359@me.com>
Message-ID: <AC14F08F-5EFE-4BA1-B5F2-80EFAEC09F54@me.com>

I had a similar experience with my GT6 a few years ago (though a different initial cause). Could be gasket or rings or a warped head, but for my car it was leaky valves that needed to be recut.  I had lapped them and my machinist had thought they looked fine too the first time when we resurfaced the head.   My first advice is to get a leakdown tester from Summit Racing or somewhere.  Pretty cheap and a great diagnostic device.  Especially with the manifolds off, you can readily identify the source of the leaks by the air whistling!  You'll probably have to run the test without your rocker assembly on, depending on how radical a cam you have.  The compression tester tells you that you have a problem - the leak down tester tells you where.

Payen gaskets are trouble free for me.  I'm guessing you are using stock head studs - with ARP if memory serves I'm torquing to 65 or 70 lbs.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 08:22:40 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:22:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.44.1345472405.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a
larger diameter section that screws into the Trunnion?

Tony

At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Tony,
>
>you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
>rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>replaced to do that.
>
>I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>I can send photos if you like.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>An: fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
>TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
>part with?
>
>I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
>at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Tony Drews

From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 08:40:52 2012
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:40:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <28183E35-1CC7-4E89-8E0E-2EF1E24E141B@aol.com>

Not relevant to your question, but I wouldn't be to quick to conclude somebody
just didn't put that screw in - unless you've already searched the oil pan for
it - I have found that screw on a magnetic oil pan drain plug

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2012, at 4:29 AM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> He found
> that the engine builder had not installed the set screw that keeps the
rocker
> shaft in line with the oil feed hole in the upright.

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 08:48:26 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:48:26 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>

Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
that screws into the Trunnion?

Tony

At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Tony,
>
>you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>replaced to do that.
>
>I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>I can send photos if you like.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>An: fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>willing to part with?
>
>I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Tony Drews

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 08:57:09 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:57:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.45.1345474474.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
>apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
> >willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 09:01:36 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:01:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>

Everything is the same.
You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come with
the installation set.
If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.

I send photos.

Cheers
Chris


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
> >to replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> >be willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:02:50 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>

I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you could 
modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, you'd be way ahead 
of the game.
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
>
> Tony
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
>>apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>>that screws into the Trunnion?
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>> >Tony,
>> >
>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>> >replaced to do that.
>> >
>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>> >I can send photos if you like.
>> >
>> >Cheers
>> >Chris
>> >
>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>> >
>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>> >willing to part with?
>> >
>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it 
>> >happens.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:06:10 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:06:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>
Message-ID: <240DD26FDB8F4C598FCB3194C49E08F9@Charly>

Depends on what you have now.  In box are later TR4 upper a-arms.




TR2-4 Front Suspension


Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Everything is the same.
> You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come 
> with
> the installation set.
> If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
> trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
> Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.
>
> I send photos.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
> there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
> stock
> lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
> loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
> make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
> directly to me.
>
> Tony
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>> >Tony,
>> >
>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
>> >to replaced to do that.
>> >
>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>> >I can send photos if you like.
>> >
>> >Cheers
>> >Chris
>> >
>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>> >
>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
>> >be willing to part with?
>> >
>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
> happens.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of TRI-022.gif]

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 09:08:40 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:08:40 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>

One thing:
The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
And the camber gain is increased.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
> >to replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> >be willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:15:43 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:15:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>
	<240DD26FDB8F4C598FCB3194C49E08F9@Charly>
Message-ID: <1191AECDACD5447388E3D1655254BD57@Charly>

One more thing, the Jaguar XJ6 ball joints are the same except they are 
narrower, which allows you to shim them for more or less castor.
Charly Mitchel
From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; "'Tony Drews'" 
<tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Depends on what you have now.  In box are later TR4 upper a-arms.
>
>
>
>
> TR2-4 Front Suspension
>
>
> Charly Mitchel
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>> Everything is the same.
>> You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come
>> with
>> the installation set.
>> If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
>> trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
>> Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.
>>
>> I send photos.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>> there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the
>> stock
>> lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the 
>> A-Arms
>> loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they 
>> won't
>> make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>> directly to me.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>>>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>Chris
>>>
>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>>>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> >Tony,
>>> >
>>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
>>> >to replaced to do that.
>>> >
>>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>>> >I can send photos if you like.
>>> >
>>> >Cheers
>>> >Chris
>>> >
>>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
>>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>> >
>>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
>>> >be willing to part with?
>>> >
>>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
>> happens.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks in advance.
>>> >
>>> >Tony Drews
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
> TRI-022.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 09:33:57 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:33:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.46.1345476681.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
is different for Left Hand side of the car and
Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different parts).

Why is the vertical link different from side to
side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.

Thanks, Tony

At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>One thing:
>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>And the camber gain is increased.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>directly to me.
>
>Tony
<snip>

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:41:22 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:41:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>

My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The trunnion 
has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them the wheel 
would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R handed and can 
only be assembled as a set L&R.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
> parts).
>
> Why is the vertical link different from side to
> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>One thing:
>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
>>stock
>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>>directly to me.
>>
>>Tony
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 09:52:14 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:52:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
Message-ID: <mailman.47.1345477778.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.

OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A 
arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My 
car is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't 
sound like any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next 
race to get this done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct 
bolt on for the earlier car with the welded in lower frame 
pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the reaming and 
spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional camber gain 
- not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a positive.

Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...  :)

Tony

At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse 
>them the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are 
>also L&R handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>Charly
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different parts).
>>
>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>
>>Thanks, Tony
>>
>>At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>One thing:
>>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>Chris
>>>
>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
>>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>>
>>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>>>directly to me.
>>>
>>>Tony
>><snip>
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 10:17:20 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:17:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
Message-ID: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>

It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down. 
My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and 
removed the spacers and remained the same height.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>
> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A arms, 
> does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is low 
> enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any fun 
> at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.  It 
> sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car with 
> the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the 
> reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional 
> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a 
> positive.
>
> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... 
> :)
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The trunnion 
>>has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them the wheel 
>>would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R handed and 
>>can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
>>>parts).
>>>
>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>
>>>Thanks, Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>>One thing:
>>>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>>>
>>>>Cheers
>>>>Chris
>>>>
>>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
>>>>stock
>>>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the 
>>>>A-Arms
>>>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>>>
>>>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they 
>>>>won't
>>>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is 
>>>>addressed
>>>>directly to me.
>>>>
>>>>Tony
>>><snip>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>Unsubscribe: 
>>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 10:38:49 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:38:49 +0200
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
Message-ID: <000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>

This is the last weekends race.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxJq6Lf2exk

Tactics was to save the car and doing a sprint at the last 20 min....which
resulted with a lead in our group.
1st overall - group Triumph Competition
1st in class

Cheers
Chris

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Mon Aug 20 11:01:03 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:01:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820142143.D97402D0325@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20120820170104.QYJAY.63258.root@cdptpa-web26-z02>

I have a complete TR250/TR6 front suspension on the TR3. Keep in mind the TR4A - TR6 upper fulcrum pivot pins are a different diameter from the TR3 - TR4. TR4A - TR6 is 5/8 (same as the lower fulcrum pivot pins) and the TR3 and TR4 are 1/2. 

If you want pictures now is a good time. No fender or wheel to obstruct the view.

Bob


---- Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote: 
> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a
> larger diameter section that screws into the Trunnion?
> 
> Tony
> 
> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
> >rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
> >TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
> >part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
> >at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 13:38:49 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:38:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <137a4.129bdcb2.3d63ec49@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/19/2012 4:08:21 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tony at tonydrews.com writes:


> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is 
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd 
> be willing to part with?
> 
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower 
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> 
> 

Amici...

He does not exaggerate.  I know.  I was there (and as you might 
imagine...behind him.  Only the laundry knows how excited he got.

Truth be told, we can all be glad it happened at the beginning of Grattan's 
front straight...and not the end of it.  Grattan is an old drag strip...and 
Tony don't go slow.

Bill (Damdinger)

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 14:03:12 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
	<42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
Message-ID: <9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>

Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA rules?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 11:02 AM, "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
wrote:

> I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you could
modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, you'd be way ahead of
the game.
> Charly Mitchel
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
>> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
>> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
>> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
>> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
>> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
>> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
>> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
suspension
>>> apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>>> that screws into the Trunnion?
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> >Tony,
>>> >
>>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>>> >replaced to do that.
>>> >
>>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>>> >I can send photos if you like.
>>> >
>>> >Cheers
>>> >Chris
>>> >
>>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
>>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>> >
>>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>>> >willing to part with?
>>> >
>>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
>happens.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks in advance.
>>> >
>>> >Tony Drews
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 14:13:48 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:13:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA 
> rules?
> 
> 

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an 
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.  
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's 
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint 
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a 
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge 
from the red and black to the blue and white.  

Bill Dentinger

From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Aug 20 14:27:56 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:27:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
References: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.48.1345494320.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 1906?"
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:13:48 
To: <jhhasty at gdhs.com>; <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA 
> rules?
> 
> 

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an 
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.  
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's 
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint 
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a 
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge 
from the red and black to the blue and white.  

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com

From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Aug 20 14:36:14 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:36:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
References: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EFC07B4C2B714089AD48EF7085113A3B@rileyPC>

regarding GCR and the relocation of suspension pick up points;   some 40 
years ago, after spending
some time with Bill Boemler and his wicked fast TR3 and observing a number 
of items that may
have not been "full compliance" with the GCR, I asked Bill how he ever got 
the thing thru tech inspection.

his reply:  Most of the inspectors are not real TR3 savvy and besides, the 
GCR coes not apply to
cars over 10 years old.

So, don't worry,  be happy!

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 3:13 PM
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com ; charly at mitchelplumbing.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA
> rules?
>
>

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge
from the red and black to the blue and white.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net





-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5211 - Release Date: 08/20/12 

From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 14:51:06 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:51:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:28:01 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jason at multivintage.com writes:


> Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 
> 1906?"
> 
Jason...

When I started road racing over here in 1906 there were no rules.  I was 
the only racer.  Then this other guy started racing, and right away they 
needed rules.  Soon there were five or six guys racing and soon that dam rule 
book was nearly an inch thick.  

Incidentally, I can't remember for sure who it was, but at the Friday night 
Beady Eye wine and cheese party at Grattan someone was making some pretty 
solid points about what is hurting race series these days like Indy Car and 
so on.  He maintained one of the big reasons is they have made it impossible 
for any ingenuity.  In the old days people would develop whole new cars to 
compete, and the stands would be full of people watching the practice and 
time trials, not to mention come race day.  They all wanted to see the new 
stuff, the new cars, and how good they were or weren't.  The guy was making some 
really great points.  I wish I would not have had so much Pinot Grigio.  
I'd remember better and could share it with you.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Wait a minute.  Jason...you were there!  Oh, that's right.  You were 
drinking too.  Good cheese though.  Picante Provolone, Sharp White Cheddar, a 
soft brie, and back by popular demand...Mindoro Bleu.

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 15:14:18 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:14:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>
References: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <261996F0-1736-4BAC-B150-0D935D013357@gdhs.com>

You know Bill, this is why back in the 70's & 80's when I was in pro
motorcycle road racing I chose 250cc GP class  the only rules, other than
safety items, were displacement, weight, aspiration & fuel. Anything else was
up to you.


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 4:51 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:28:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
jason at multivintage.com writes:
>
>
>> Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 1906?"
>
> Jason...
>
> When I started road racing over here in 1906 there were no rules.  I was the
only racer.  Then this other guy started racing, and right away they needed
rules.  Soon there were five or six guys racing and soon that dam rule book
was nearly an inch thick.
>
> Incidentally, I can't remember for sure who it was, but at the Friday night
Beady Eye wine and cheese party at Grattan someone was making some pretty
solid points about what is hurting race series these days like Indy Car and so
on.  He maintained one of the big reasons is they have made it impossible for
any ingenuity.  In the old days people would develop whole new cars to
compete, and the stands would be full of people watching the practice and time
trials, not to mention come race day.  They all wanted to see the new stuff,
the new cars, and how good they were or weren't.  The guy was making some
really great points.  I wish I would not have had so much Pinot Grigio.  I'd
remember better and could share it with you.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Wait a minute.  Jason...you were there!  Oh, that's right.  You were
drinking too.  Good cheese though.  Picante Provolone, Sharp White Cheddar, a
soft brie, and back by popular demand...Mindoro Bleu.

From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 16:20:39 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
Message-ID: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>

Anybody know what it went for?  RM has not published results as yet.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 16:51:39 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:51:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
	<42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
	<9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.49.1345502945.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

I could give a flying flip of the GCR issue if switching to the TR-4A 
/ TR-6 upright keeps me from a repeat of that ride.  The next time it 
may not end as well.  It's not like I'm vying for any prize money or 
fame and glory.  Looking at the broken off vertical link I'm amazed 
that something of that diameter can take the abuse I've given it.

We've made exceptions to the GCR for safety upgrades like the 
Southwick rear axle and Alloy front hubs.  I consider this to be 
right along those lines and if it works out like I think it may, I'd 
do a nice writeup on my website and encourage others to perform the 
same upgrade.

Frame attachment points will still be stock.

If I can confirm whether using the later A-arms will get me back to 
the same ride height (at least close to it), there should be very 
little difference in front suspension geometry.

I do appreciate the question even if I don't sound like it above.  :)

Thanks, Tony

At 03:03 PM 8/20/2012, John Hasty wrote:
>Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA rules?
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Aug 20, 2012, at 11:02 AM, "Charly Mitchel" 
><charly at mitchelplumbing.com> wrote:
>
> > I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you 
> could modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, 
> you'd be way ahead of the game.
> > Charly Mitchel
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> > To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >
> >> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
> >> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
> >> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
> >> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
> >> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
> >> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
> >>
> >> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
> >> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
> >> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
> >>
> >> Tony
> >>
> >> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >>> Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front 
> suspension
> >>> apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
> >>>
> >>> Cheers
> >>> Chris
> >>>
> >>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
> >>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
> >>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
> >>> Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >>>
> >>> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
> >>> that screws into the Trunnion?
> >>>
> >>> Tony
> >>>
> >>> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >>> >Tony,
> >>> >
> >>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >>> >replaced to do that.
> >>> >
> >>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >>> >I can send photos if you like.
> >>> >
> >>> >Cheers
> >>> >Chris
> >>> >
> >>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >>> >
> >>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
> >>> >willing to part with?
> >>> >
> >>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when 
> it >happens.
> >>> >
> >>> >Thanks in advance.
> >>> >
> >>> >Tony Drews
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 17:06:56 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:06:56 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
Message-ID: <mailman.50.1345503860.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end 
of the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the 
trunnion - at least partially.

Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved 
up on the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone 
confirm / deny this?

It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - 
both upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.

Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may help:
On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line 
of spindle
 From center line of spindle to spring pan

That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup 
would lower the car.

Tony

At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets 
>down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower 
>a-arms and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>Charly
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>
>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower 
>>A arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later 
>>trunnions?  My car is low enough already, and messing with spring 
>>spacers doesn't sound like any fun at all.  I've got two weekends 
>>before the next race to get this done.  It sounds like the later 
>>A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car with the welded in 
>>lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the reaming 
>>and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional 
>>camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a positive.
>>
>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... :)
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to 
>>>reverse them the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on 
>>>them are also L&R handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>Charly
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are 
>>>>different parts).
>>>>
>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks, Tony
<snip>

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Mon Aug 20 17:25:19 2012
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:25:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup
Message-ID: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>

Gurus, I need some help with my Webers.  I have a matched pair of 151s 
with the following configuration: 55F8 idle jets, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns 
on the idle mixture screws, idles nicely at 1K RPM with ~ 1/2 turn on 
the idle speed screw.  Accelerator pump jets are 40s, the pump exhaust 
valve hole soldered shut (the ball valve still works).  Main jets ranged 
from 150 to 120, with various combinations of air bleeds from 150 to 
190.  The plastic float levels have been set to 14.5 and 22mm, to reduce 
fuel in the well.  The problem is that above ~2K RPM the AFR drops to 
high 10, low 11, so of course the engine runs like crap.  One more bit 
of info: fully closed the throttle plates are mid-way in the first 
progression hole.  One Weber parts distributor said that was correct for 
151s, another said that the carbs must be binding because the 
progression holes should be clear at fully closed throttle.  Hmmm.  The 
throttles have no binding that I can feel (linkage disconnected).

I took a set of main jets and filled the fuel hole with JB Weld, 
thinking I'd start really small and work up.  As a baseline test I made 
a run with the hole still closed and the AFR was still ~11.5.  Ah ha!  
That tells me that it's not the main circuit which is the problem but 
rather the accelerator pump circuit.  I noticed that at 2100-2200 RPM a 
ball of fuel forms on the jet, then drops into the venturi; that seems 
wrong to me, but I've not found any info in a myriad of Weber books on 
what might be wrong in the accelerator circuit .

Falling back on my Army career, I'm tempted to implement my mantra that 
"there's no problem that judicially placed high explosive can't solve".  
Before I start shopping for C4, anyone have any ideas?  Any and all 
advice gratefully accepted.

Tnx!

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 17:46:45 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:46:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
Message-ID: <48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>

Chris.    Great as always.  For all of us on the east coast of USA,  SVRA has
apparently  been sold to someone inTexas.  Anyone have anymore info??

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:38 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> This is the last weekends race.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxJq6Lf2exk
>
> Tactics was to save the car and doing a sprint at the last 20 min....which
> resulted with a lead in our group.
> 1st overall - group Triumph Competition
> 1st in class
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 20 18:05:34 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:05:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
	<48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <36E6C490-1F55-40BE-B853-ADAB70B5B5E1@gmail.com>

I read that it was sold to Tony Parella, who has been racing his gorgeous
black 1958 Corvette in CVAR (Group 4, the Corinthian preservation class for
pre-1962 cars) for a couple of years and now is also racing a newer car in
Group 1 with the other later Corvettes and Pony cars.  He's apparently a
Corvette guy through and through (I'm told he has "a few"). You can look up
his company, The Parella Group, on the Internet.  He's a nice guy, trying to
do racing right, who has overcome some adversity in life.  His profile, on his
company website:

http://parellagroup.com/about-tony-parella.php

I also run in Group 4, and fortunately for me, in the rain, he's toast.
Unfortunately, it rarely rains here.

Duncan Charlton
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red

On Aug 20, 2012, at 6:46 PM, John Hasty wrote:

> For all of us on the east coast of USA,  SVRA has apparently  been sold to
someone inTexas.  Anyone have anymore info??

From walt at hot-tr6.com  Mon Aug 20 18:31:44 2012
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:31:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup
In-Reply-To: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>
References: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <001501cd7f34$57fce1b0$07f6a510$@hot-tr6.com>

My TR6 racecar with triple Weber 40 DCOEs runs well with the following
setup. I am running at 12:1 compression, lots of porting and bigger valves.
A very strong camshaft but not full race. 
Also, I am at 5,500 feet above sea level.

Main Jets		130
Air			200
Emulsion Tube		F7
Idle jets		55F9
Acel pump Jet		40
Bleed off set to		Zero
Idle mix screws set to two turns

Walt Hollowell
Albuquerque, New Mexico

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of J.C. Hassall
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 5:25 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup

Gurus, I need some help with my Webers.  I have a matched pair of 151s with
the following configuration: 55F8 idle jets, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns on the
idle mixture screws, idles nicely at 1K RPM with ~ 1/2 turn on the idle
speed screw.  Accelerator pump jets are 40s, the pump exhaust valve hole
soldered shut (the ball valve still works).  Main jets ranged from 150 to
120, with various combinations of air bleeds from 150 to 190.  The plastic
float levels have been set to 14.5 and 22mm, to reduce fuel in the well.
The problem is that above ~2K RPM the AFR drops to high 10, low 11, so of
course the engine runs like crap.  One more bit of info: fully closed the
throttle plates are mid-way in the first progression hole.  One Weber parts
distributor said that was correct for 151s, another said that the carbs must
be binding because the progression holes should be clear at fully closed
throttle.  Hmmm.  The throttles have no binding that I can feel (linkage
disconnected).

I took a set of main jets and filled the fuel hole with JB Weld, thinking
I'd start really small and work up.  As a baseline test I made a run with
the hole still closed and the AFR was still ~11.5.  Ah ha!  
That tells me that it's not the main circuit which is the problem but rather
the accelerator pump circuit.  I noticed that at 2100-2200 RPM a ball of
fuel forms on the jet, then drops into the venturi; that seems wrong to me,
but I've not found any info in a myriad of Weber books on what might be
wrong in the accelerator circuit .

Falling back on my Army career, I'm tempted to implement my mantra that
"there's no problem that judicially placed high explosive can't solve".  
Before I start shopping for C4, anyone have any ideas?  Any and all advice
gratefully accepted.

Tnx!

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot-tr6.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5211 - Release Date: 08/20/12

From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 19:02:58 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:02:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
Message-ID: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>

I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes.  The parking brake
was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks.  Upon
reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself.  So. . . under the
car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive.  When I reached
end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was firm.  I
drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor.  It would pump
up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again.  I got the car home and
looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were obvious.
Nothing.  Master was full.  My experience tells me this is an internal master
cylinder leak.  The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other advice before
I jump on the internet and order a new one?
TIA

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 20 20:01:34 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 22:01:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>

I see on the Classic Motorsports web site forum it went for $55k. What a
shame. Somebody ended up with a fantastic car though. Hopefully it was a
FOT'r

Marty
----------------------------------------
> From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
>
> Anybody know what it went for? RM has not published results as yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/trmarty at hotmail.com

From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 20:15:02 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:15:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
	<08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <53F87E0B-925D-4319-B848-B73DAB93577F@aol.com>

Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in?  I know there is a
core charge.  Just thinking about the exchange time.  Also, send it where?
Apple, White Post. . . ?

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc

From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 20:16:31 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 22:16:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
	<BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EB6061C0-2944-4C49-8592-E20F5A4B1EDC@me.com>

wow - I'm not going to call it a great deal if all you want to do is go vintage racing, but for a car with that history, and given what went into the restoration, it seems like a real bargain.

On Aug 20, 2012, at 10:01 PM, marty sukey wrote:


I see on the Classic Motorsports web site forum it went for $55k. What a shame. Somebody ended up with a fantastic car though. Hopefully it was a FOT'r

Marty
----------------------------------------
> From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
> 
> Anybody know what it went for? RM has not published results as yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/trmarty at hotmail.com

From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 20:16:52 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:16:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
	<08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0285C5A4-664F-4BFC-A1E0-42C6500A1F44@aol.com>

BTW, I am using DOT5 and have been for years.

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug 21 04:57:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 12:57:02 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301cd7f8b$b35d72c0$1a185840$@com>

There is a diaphragm spring behind the little piston in the master.
I most cases this spring gets tired and is not able to hold pressure.
You can overcome it with slamming on the brakes then it should hold
pressure.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Sam
Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2012 03:03
An: 6-pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Brakes

I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes.  The parking brake
was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks.  Upon
reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself.  So. . . under
the car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive.  When I
reached end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was
firm.  I drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor.  It
would pump up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again.  I got the
car home and looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were
obvious.
Nothing.  Master was full.  My experience tells me this is an internal
master cylinder leak.  The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other
advice before I jump on the internet and order a new one?
TIA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 21 05:26:58 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (trmarty at hotmail.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:26:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>

Anybody know off the top of your head what the thread size is in the front of a, TR4 crank?

Marty 

Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"

From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Tue Aug 21 06:20:56 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 08:20:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820230600.3DB952D03B2@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230600.3DB952D03B2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9N9nhhKY7+JiipQB2OT01UFx0GfM8qr_j2AV_XJ3O3+iw@mail.gmail.com>

the whole concept seems to me to be a good  idea as for me I like to keep
the car on the track and not in the grass if you are lucky to have some,
all our cars have changed alot to keep going strong an it is up to us to
keep them changing to stay ahead of the crowd ...and to pass goo ideas

On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 7:06 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>
>> It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets
>> down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms
>> and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>> Charly
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
>> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>> THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>> arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is
>>> low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any
>>> fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.
>>>  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car
>>> with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for
>>> the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional
>>> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a
>>> positive.
>>>
>>> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>> :)
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>
>>>> My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>> trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>> the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>> handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>> Charly
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>> parts).
>>>>>
>>>>> Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, Tony
>>>>>
>>>> <snip>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com>
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Aug 21 08:17:27 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:17:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
Message-ID: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>

BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness. 
I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always bent. 
If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult to 
check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the upper 
and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate it and 
go through the suspension range to check it.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of 
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at 
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on 
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny 
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both 
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may 
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of 
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would 
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down. 
>>My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and 
>>removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
>><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A 
>>>arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car 
>>>is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like 
>>>any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this 
>>>done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the 
>>>earlier car with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate 
>>>the need for the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate 
>>>the additional camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else 
>>>would be a positive.
>>>
>>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... 
>>>:)
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them 
>>>>the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R 
>>>>handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>Charly
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
>>>>>parts).
>>>>>
>>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks, Tony
> <snip>

From igofaster at att.net  Tue Aug 21 08:22:01 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:22:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
Message-ID: <1345558921.42432.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Tim said it sold Saturday night, I haven't seen the sale price yet... I'm 
guessing a number in my head... I'm sure it's a record for a GT6 so.... if 
anyone gets the news I would love to know...
My friend George Curl (past prez of CVAR) said the price went up after I sat in 
the car again at the Mitty this year... must have been my golden bum.... 
ahh..... nevermind...
Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, August 20, 2012 5:23:12 PM
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey

Anybody know what it went for?  RM has not published results as yet.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 21 08:31:57 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:31:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION
Message-ID: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

What a list!  The knowledge base here is one that helps improve the breed.

Parts are on their way to Tony and I am sure he will share the experience of
his conversion.

FOT GCRs??  We have none. That's between you and your tech inspector.

We have no rules....other than being nice to each other.

Joe A

From mpendy at dishmail.net  Tue Aug 21 08:42:42 2012
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (MARKANDGLENDA PENDERGRASS)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:42:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
Message-ID: <CACx-LfMkoF57hn2BeFGZeBaOAzdwer4wf5bZA_L18jd2Y4uKoA@mail.gmail.com>

Some vertical links were purposely bent on early cars to get neg. camber,
mine being one of those. The lower wishbones were also bent to some degree
and i to have TR6 componants, do i agree with this practice?........not
really.....and i do keep a real close eye on those componants.
Mark '63 TR4

On Tue, Aug 21, 2012 at 7:17 AM, Charly Mitchel
<charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:

> BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness.
> I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always
> bent. If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult
> to check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the
> upper and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate
> it and go through the suspension range to check it.
>
> Charly
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>  Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
>> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
>> least partially.
>>
>> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up
>> on the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
>> this?
>>
>> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
>> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>>
>> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
>> help:
>> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
>> spindle
>> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>>
>> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup
>> would lower the car.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>
>>> It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets
>>> down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms
>>> and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>> Charly
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
>>> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>
>>>  THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>>> arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is
>>>> low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any
>>>> fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.
>>>>  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car
>>>> with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for
>>>> the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional
>>>> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a
>>>> positive.
>>>>
>>>> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>>> :)
>>>>
>>>> Tony
>>>>
>>>> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>>> trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>>> the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>>> handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>> Charly
>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>  I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>>> parts).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks, Tony
>>>>>>
>>>>> <snip>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.*
> *net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net>

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Aug 21 08:42:47 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:42:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION
In-Reply-To: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5176CF0F8DF74D088D24575C83DE548C@gdhs.local>

Well Now, guys/gals here's the answer. 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 10:32 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION

What a list!  The knowledge base here is one that helps improve the breed.

Parts are on their way to Tony and I am sure he will share the experience of
his conversion.

FOT GCRs??  We have none. That's between you and your tech inspector.

We have no rules....other than being nice to each other.

Joe A
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com

From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Aug 21 08:48:00 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:48:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
Message-ID: <8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>

 What Charly said, big problem area there.
The links should also be crack-checked periodically.
Also make sure that the trunnion isn't stressed fore/aft when the ball joint
is fitted.
Adjust ride height by spacing spring up or shim spring pan down to suit.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>; Tony Drews
<tony at tonydrews.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 21, 2012 10:24 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness.
I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always bent.
If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult to
check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the upper
and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate it and
go through the suspension range to check it.
Charly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx"
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down.
>>My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and
>>removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx"
>><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>>arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car
>>>is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like
>>>any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this
>>>done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the
>>>earlier car with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate
>>>the need for the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate
>>>the additional camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else
>>>would be a positive.
>>>
>>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>>:)
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>>the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>>handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>Charly
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>>parts).
>>>>>
>>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks, Tony
> <snip>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Aug 21 09:16:49 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:16:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
	<8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>

Hi -

Call me stupid, but I have to ask this follow-up question... I believe the 
initial question was "are the new vertical links worth buying?". There 
were a tonne of responses to the effect of "when you swap in a used 
vertical link, check for... yadda yadda yadda.

I get that.

But I don't think the original question was ever actually answered.

Does that mean unequivocably that the new ones should be avoided?

I'll toss in anecdotal comments overheard from a certain materials science 
member of the list - that the new castings may be flawed (due to metalurgy 
and to casting methods), but that's the extent of anything that I know on 
this topic. Can anyone chime on on this with something other than 
"offshore stuff all sucks".

As a point of information, in the northeast where this is salt on the 
roads, all the cores that I've obtained over the years have rust along the 
area of the threaded portion of the link where it threads into the 
trunnion. As a semi-interested party in metal fatigue and so forth, I 
can't get myself to use any of these because I have no idea how bad the 
rust has penetrated - but I also know that the presence of corrosion can't 
be a good thing.

So, should "we" avoid the _new_ vertical links altogether?

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Aug 21 09:45:01 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:45:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
	<8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <8CF4DCB0EE16CC3-19FC-43DB@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>

 It all depends on what inventory a particular supplier has at any time.
I don't think that any of the larger suppliers knowingly sell crap but I have
bought exactly that at times from all of them.
You/I as the end-user have to make the ultimate call, inspect everything and
if something doesn't seem right it's because it isn't...
I wouldn't use a vertical link with corrosion on that inside corner, that's
obviously where all of the stress is, I have seen several break there.
Glen
ps- check the fulcrum pin/hole to trunnion, have seen several repros not
square/off center!!!





-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 21, 2012 11:21 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


Hi -

Call me stupid, but I have to ask this follow-up question... I believe the
initial question was "are the new vertical links worth buying?". There
were a tonne of responses to the effect of "when you swap in a used
vertical link, check for... yadda yadda yadda.

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 21 10:14:39 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 12:14:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6/TR250   BRAKE CALIPER BRACKETS AVAILABLE
Message-ID: <8CF4DCF32F863AF-179C-97E4C@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

Now that the suspensions are dismantled, for Tony's project, I have a pair if
brake brackets available if anyone has been thinking about a brake conversion
on their TR3.

CONTACT ME off list......


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Aug 21 10:26:51 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:26:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <mailman.51.1345566251.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

I measure 0.630", fine thread.  Must be 5/8".

Tony

At 06:26 AM 8/21/2012, trmarty at hotmail.com wrote:
>Anybody know off the top of your head what the thread size is in the 
>front of a, TR4 crank?
>
>Marty
>
>Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 22 11:22:32 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:22:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?
Message-ID: <mailman.54.1345655993.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

I've got the TR-250 front suspension pieces now (thanks Joe!) and it 
looks like they will lower my car about an inch.  Sooo, how much 
spacer do I need to add to the spring to offset that?  I'm guessing 
it's about a 2 to 1 deal, so 1/2" spacer would be an inch of ride height.

Anyone have something better than a guess for this?

By the way, the TR-250 (and 4A and 6) upright / vertical link is 
significantly beefier than the TR-4 piece as has been mentioned on 
the list.  The upper portion seems to be larger cross section as well 
as the lower screw portion being larger in diameter.

Thanks in advance,
Tony Drews

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 22 12:25:51 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 14:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?
In-Reply-To: <20120822172613.C150E2D0299@autox.team.net>
References: <20120822172613.C150E2D0299@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF4EAAB15F923F-13EC-80330@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

that's what i have used in the past  1/2  =  1

i did not realize the TR6 parts were significantly more stout.

thanks Chris.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 22, 2012 12:28 pm
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?


I've got the TR-250 front suspension pieces now (thanks Joe!) and it
looks like they will lower my car about an inch.  Sooo, how much
spacer do I need to add to the spring to offset that?  I'm guessing
it's about a 2 to 1 deal, so 1/2" spacer would be an inch of ride height.

Anyone have something better than a guess for this?

By the way, the TR-250 (and 4A and 6) upright / vertical link is
significantly beefier than the TR-4 piece as has been mentioned on
the list.  The upper portion seems to be larger cross section as well
as the lower screw portion being larger in diameter.

Thanks in advance,
Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From spitracer1296 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 22 13:03:36 2012
From: spitracer1296 at yahoo.com (chris crisenbery)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:03:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
Message-ID: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Checked RM Results Sold for $55,000
 
I didn't see if that included any buyers
premiums or not.

From spitracer1296 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 22 13:07:46 2012
From: spitracer1296 at yahoo.com (chris crisenbery)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:07:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
In-Reply-To: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1345662466.72168.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Auction estimate was $75K to $125K



________________________________
From: chris crisenbery <spitracer1296 at yahoo.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 3:03 PM
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD

Checked RM Results Sold for $55,000

I didn't see if that included any buyers
premiums or not.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Aug 22 14:42:49 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 20:42:49 +0000
Subject: [Fot] GT-6  Historic REAL car.
Message-ID: <SNT120-W626C1C1B423BA391C12AA1DFBF0@phx.gbl>

What a pity that a perfect restoration and truly nice piece with terrrific
history goes for that small price compared to nice street cas with no history
are nearly the same.

Never be beaten by equipment

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 22 16:38:54 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:38:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] inquiry on transportation  midwest to la area
Message-ID: <8CF4ECE0B0279EB-13EC-82946@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

if someone has something going from east to west in the next couple months,
let me know and we can discuss.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From gasket.works at gte.net  Wed Aug 22 19:17:24 2012
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 01:17:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
Message-ID: <1994533368-1345684645-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1668046759-@b28.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Don't be surprised @ this price.  These cars are directed to a smaller niche market.  Even with provenance it has limited real value except to some of us.  You could build a similar car for 25K to 30K so the history/provenance value doubled its value. Sadly, It may never bring this price again.  Me thinks RM estimated their price point intentionally high. I would have done the same.    

My two cents.

mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 23 15:21:54 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 14:21:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust valves.
All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the left
side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the intake/exhaust
(right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water on
the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.

So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many times?
Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than the
rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a bit
off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
pushrods?

This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
pal.

Ed Dunn

From sjanzen at me.com  Thu Aug 23 16:47:21 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 18:47:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>

Hi, Ed
Sounds to me like you have a warped head, non-level block and/or studs that are stretched to the point where they've lost their elasticity (my engineering materials courses are 35 years in the rearview mirror, sorry if the terminology is wrong).  Too long is not an issue unless you are running out of thread to tighten the nuts.
Anyway, I'd suggest getting some new studs from ARP or another good supplier, and getting the both the head and block checked by a good machinist to make sure they're both flat, and getting the valves and valve seats re-cut.
Leakage along the outside of the pushrod galleys is not unusual - I usually assemble with a bit of black permatex over there, but not between the combustion chamber and the pushrod galleys.
Length of pushrods, etc - sometimes you can have these shortened, depending on the design.  Basically, you need to install and see if, when the camshaft travels through the lift cycle, the rocker travel across the tip of the valve is pretty close to centered.  If it's off, you'll get too much side load on the valve and wear issues.  There are lots of aftermarket pushrod mfrs who can supply new ones to the right length, or your machinist may be able to shorten the ones you have.

On Aug 23, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:

Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust valves.
All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the left
side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the intake/exhaust
(right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water on
the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.

So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many times?
Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than the
rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a bit
off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
pushrods?

This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
pal.

Ed Dunn
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 23 17:03:30 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 16:03:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Thanks,  we'll check it out more tonight. Will likely order a set of ARP head
studs.  Guess I'll take the head back to the cylinder head shop to have them
check the exhaust valves.  The engine was rebuilt last winter, and had a very
good race weekend before it failed. Did not retorque after the initial race
weekend. When doing a leak down test, how much time do you use per cylinder?

Ed

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 23 17:14:44 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:14:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1549BA8EF2575AE3A543EF7B2BE0@phx.gbl>

On this engine the leaking head gasket from the fuel pump side of the block is
a classic symptom I starting your torque sequence in the wrong side ( I've
made that mistake.

Have the valves and seats been recently done?

I've rebuilt 4 of those exact engines and never had to replace the stick bolts
but that is not to say yours are ok

You can check the head for flat/true by cleaning everything good then without
bolts or head gasket set the head into the engine block an use a .002 gauge to
check for gaps between block and head everywhere.  If you have a proper metal
straight edge you can lay it across block and head to further check if you are
of a mind to "do it  yourself" and this is a stock rebuild.

The machine shop is of course the best answer if it hasn't already been there
just prior to your recent assembly.

Best if luck

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-23, at 6:47 PM, "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> Hi, Ed
> Sounds to me like you have a warped head, non-level block and/or studs that
are stretched to the point where they've lost their elasticity (my engineering
materials courses are 35 years in the rearview mirror, sorry if the
terminology is wrong).  Too long is not an issue unless you are running out of
thread to tighten the nuts.
> Anyway, I'd suggest getting some new studs from ARP or another good
supplier, and getting the both the head and block checked by a good machinist
to make sure they're both flat, and getting the valves and valve seats
re-cut.
> Leakage along the outside of the pushrod galleys is not unusual - I usually
assemble with a bit of black permatex over there, but not between the
combustion chamber and the pushrod galleys.
> Length of pushrods, etc - sometimes you can have these shortened, depending
on the design.  Basically, you need to install and see if, when the camshaft
travels through the lift cycle, the rocker travel across the tip of the valve
is pretty close to centered.  If it's off, you'll get too much side load on
the valve and wear issues.  There are lots of aftermarket pushrod mfrs who can
supply new ones to the right length, or your machinist may be able to shorten
the ones you have.
>
> On Aug 23, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:
>
> Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
> Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust
valves.
> All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the
left
> side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the
intake/exhaust
> (right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water
on
> the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.
>
> So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
> studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many
times?
> Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than
the
> rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a
bit
> off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
> spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
> pushrods?
>
> This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
> pal.
>
> Ed Dunn
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 23 17:17:00 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS109A548E3D17C1A8B3D3467B2BE0@phx.gbl>

Race engine, ya sounds like machine shop time to be safe :)

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-23, at 7:03 PM, "Edward Dunn" <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Thanks,  we'll check it out more tonight. Will likely order a set of ARP
head
> studs.  Guess I'll take the head back to the cylinder head shop to have
them
> check the exhaust valves.  The engine was rebuilt last winter, and had a
very
> good race weekend before it failed. Did not retorque after the initial race
> weekend. When doing a leak down test, how much time do you use per
cylinder?
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Fri Aug 24 10:54:52 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 12:54:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Roebling Rd in 3 weeks
Message-ID: <CALsVEtCY3kDunZ+E=o_CpARBKqRK3iG_2+WNTPaHw7FB5fj4fg@mail.gmail.com>

Who's going to the VDCA event at Roebling Road in Savannah next month?
 It's the weekend of September 15th.

This one is only a 2 day event but since its usually smaller than most we
get tons of track time for practically nothing ($250).  Don

From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Aug 26 12:51:27 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:51:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
Message-ID: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>

Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?

Never be beaten by equipment

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 26 12:59:04 2012
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:59:04 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
Message-ID: <12740944.1346007544376.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I'm going.  Just tuned up the TR3 10 minutes ago.

~Steve Belfer


-----Original Message-----
>From: Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
>Sent: Aug 26, 2012 11:51 AM
>To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Fot] Going racing
>
>Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
>
>Never be beaten by equipment
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net

From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Sun Aug 26 13:32:50 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 12:32:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

We'll be there.  At least with my wife's Formula Vee... Don't know if the
cranky GT6 will be fixed though.  Hopefully. Maybe.

Ed Dunn






-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Kas Kastner
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:51 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Going racing

Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?

Never be beaten by equipment
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Aug 26 14:13:50 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 16:13:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
Message-ID: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>

Who's going to be there?
I will be there crewing for a MGA #275 and a Formula  Vee #25.

I will have badges and flags.  From now on half of the price goes to our FOT
website.

See you there.

Chris

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Aug 26 16:01:20 2012
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:01:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
In-Reply-To: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
References: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>

I'll be there, working in the pit lane or roaming.
Frank's MGTD is waiting on a frame/body transplant after multi-roll at NJMSP
in July.


Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
"Reality, it's not what you think." 

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 26 16:06:10 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:06:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS101BA20A6DB2061F2E42FA5B2A30@phx.gbl>

I hope you get it sorted out  Ed.  Did you narrow it down further?

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-26, at 3:44 PM, "Edward Dunn" <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> We'll be there.  At least with my wife's Formula Vee... Don't know if the
> cranky GT6 will be fixed though.  Hopefully. Maybe.
>
> Ed Dunn
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Kas Kastner
> Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:51 AM
> To: fot
> Subject: [Fot] Going racing
>
> Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 26 20:27:11 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 21:27:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
Message-ID: <mailman.58.1346034270.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.

I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...

Thanks, Tony Drews

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 26 20:33:17 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 21:33:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827022514.816032D01AC@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827022514.816032D01AC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.59.1346034637.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

By the way, it's frozen in the trunnion itself.  It turns within the wishbones.

Tony

At 09:27 PM 8/26/2012, Tony Drews wrote:
>Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
>(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.
>
>I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews

From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Aug 26 20:38:28 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 19:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827023039.390142D01FC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1346035108.52106.YahooMailClassic@web181403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tony: That is very common. The bolt rusts to the tubes inside the top-hat. The
bolt turns, but you can't pull it out because the OD of the tube is bigger
than the hole in the trunnion. If you can't PB Blaster it and then press out
in a press you'll need to cut the bolt head and nut off.
If you damage the trunnion let me know which side it is R/H or L/H and I'll
send you a good one.
-Ed-

--- On Sun, 8/26/12, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:


From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 26, 2012, 9:33 PM


By the way, it's frozen in the trunnion itself.  It turns within the
wishbones.

Tony

At 09:27 PM 8/26/2012, Tony Drews wrote:
>Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt
>(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.
>
>I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe:
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Aug 26 20:49:49 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:49:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>

Tony Drews wrote:
> Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
> (TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower 
> wishbones.
I've always ended up using a die grinder with cut off wheel to free the 
trunnion from the
wishbones, then replacing the trunnion if the rusted bolt and sleeve 
ovaled it out.


mjb.

From chasgee at aol.com  Sun Aug 26 21:39:14 2012
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:39:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <104D9428-C701-4FF3-A4C2-47EAEC059732@aol.com>

I'm trying to make it.  It's going to be close.

Chuck

On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
> 
> Never be beaten by equipment
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Aug 27 07:31:27 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:31:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
In-Reply-To: <004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>
References: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
	<004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208270929480.11899@isis.mit.edu>

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012, Clark W. Nicholls wrote:

> I'll be there, working in the pit lane or roaming.
> Frank's MGTD is waiting on a frame/body transplant after multi-roll at NJMSP
> in July.

I'll be there, mostly roaming or spectating from the hill at the esses. We 
have four or five Triumphs caravanning from Central MA first thing SAT, 
and one of our members camps at the climbing turn every year...

> Clark
> Clark W. Nicholls
> 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U)
> and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner


c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Aug 27 08:17:14 2012
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:17:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 69, Issue 26- Limerock
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7691.1346074132.2453.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7691.1346074132.2453.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF1AC4B0DF.E5E5636D-ON85257A67.004D68EF-85257A67.004E7F5C@us.ibm.com>

I'll be racing the Spitfire at Limerock, hopefully with the new engine, if
it's back from the shop in time (like tomorrow). Had a rebuild of my spare
motor, with some pointers I picked up at the Mitty. The shop found scoring
on the crank from a failed spring shim. I had a spare crank waiting for
just such an emergency. Got the engine back last week, went to swap it
yesterday and forgot that my flywheel and cranks have been drilled out to
use 7/16 ARP bolts, and this one wasn't. Shop is making a fixture to drill
crank in block. Several Plan B's, all of then involve a late night or 2
before Thursday.

I'm also doing the  4PM Thursday race car parade from the track to
Lakeville. The track is still looking for vintage cars to accompany the
race cars into town, if you're interested contact Limerock.

63 Spit


G. Michael Harmuth

From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Aug 27 08:34:32 2012
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:34:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
	<503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>

Hate to say it but this is a serious lack of preventive maintenance! 
All too common but shouldn't be on a race car!
Cover the new bolt and bushing sleeve with grease on re-assembly!
Yikes!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 27 12:19:21 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 11:19:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire on CL
Message-ID: <06C2D85382464996BEAC17C829EB50BE@Charly>

http://hiltonhead.craigslist.org/cto/3190322843.html

Charly

From vintageautoservice at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 27 16:40:38 2012
From: vintageautoservice at yahoo.com (Guy Morter)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 15:40:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch disc diameter
Message-ID: <1346107238.69551.YahooMailClassic@web162205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

TR Amigos
I have a bunch of TR clutch discs that are 9-1/8" in dia. The one I need is 8-1/2" dia. What is the application for the 8-1/2" disc?
Guy Morter
Vintage Auto Service
262 573 4511

Flatheads Forever!

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 27 09:34:08 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:34:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
	<503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com> <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.62.1346107087.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Was not on MY race car, but was hoping to have it there soon.  Is in 
the bits of "new to me" suspension parts that are / were going on the car.

Bolt will have anti-seize on it when it goes in my car.

Tony

At 09:34 AM 8/27/2012, Clark W. Nicholls wrote:
>Hate to say it but this is a serious lack of preventive maintenance!
>All too common but shouldn't be on a race car!
>Cover the new bolt and bushing sleeve with grease on re-assembly!
>Yikes!
>
>Clark
>Clark W. Nicholls
>1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U)
>and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
>"Reality, it's not what you think."

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Tue Aug 28 13:13:32 2012
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:13:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Rotoflex Parts Needed
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639BB41AAB5@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey members,

I need a pair (left and right) of rear wheel hubs for a Rotoflex GT6 as well
as the inner rear radius arm mounts/stud. The ones that go thru/connects
together bottom of the upright and lower control arm and provides a mount for
the radius arm as it goes toward the bodies radius arm mount.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com

From cartravel at pobox.com  Tue Aug 28 17:32:15 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 18:32:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
Message-ID: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>

Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know 
they are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be 
more useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S 
carbs.  I'm looking for something similar to the SU needle information 
on the web, so I don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the 
computer.  I'll use SU needles if necessary, but would like to see (in 
an easy to compare form) what is available for the Z-S carbs.
Thanks,
Larry

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 28 17:55:06 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 19:55:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS78FF76FCE1A898F6EBDAE3B2A10@phx.gbl>

I take it you mean Zenith Stromberg.  What carbs are you dealing with?  I just
spent much research and time analyzing zenith needle charts to come up with
something for the cd150s in my GT6 racers as it was starving for fuel.  First
race event starts Thursday so i can get right down to fine tuning.  The needle
I chose made a big difference in the brief test run I did last week.

My set up is fairly mild with a fast road cam 290 duration and about 10:1
compression with better breathing intake and exhaust.

I'll send you the charts and the little spread sheet I set up that compares
needle profiles if you want it.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-28, at 7:37 PM, "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com> wrote:

> Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know they
are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be more
useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S carbs.  I'm
looking for something similar to the SU needle information on the web, so I
don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the computer.  I'll use SU needles
if necessary, but would like to see (in an easy to compare form) what is
available for the Z-S carbs.
> Thanks,
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 28 18:28:52 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 20:28:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <8CF5394661B3BFC-D08-3E6F9@webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com>

 We use SU NEEDLES on our Strombergs....shim stock is required to locate
needle and to center it.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com>
To: FOT <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 28, 2012 6:37 pm
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs


Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know
they are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be
more useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S
carbs.  I'm looking for something similar to the SU needle information
on the web, so I don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the
computer.  I'll use SU needles if necessary, but would like to see (in
an easy to compare form) what is available for the Z-S carbs.
Thanks,
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 29 05:14:42 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 07:14:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparisons
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>

Larry here's my comparison spreadsheet. I'm running the B5CE needle this weekend and will let you know how they perform.  Ill send you the complete Zenith chart as well when I can. 

Cheers

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Garrett, Vince" <vgarrett at scdsb.on.ca>
> Date: 15 August, 2012 11:29:38 AM EDT
> To: <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
> Subject: CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparisons
> 
>  
> GT6+,  Stromberg CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparison Chart
> These and other needles available through Rimmer.  The Rimmer MK3 Upgrade is their suggestion when K&N's and Tubular Exhaust is fitted
> Adjusted Richer
> My Pick/Richer
> My Pick Adjusted Richer
> RIMMER MK3 Upgrade
> RIMMER MK3 Adjusted Richer
> Stock B5AJ
> B5AJ+1/8"
> B5CE
> DIFF
> B5CE+1/8"
> DIFF
> B5BU
> B5BU+1/8"
> DIFF
> 0.0855
> 0.0843
> 0.0012
> 0.0880
> -0.0025
> 0.0845
> 0.0010
> 0.0881
> -0.0026
> 0.0853
> 0.0002
> 0.0843
> 0.0829
> 0.0014
> 0.0845
> -0.0002
> 0.0817
> 0.0026
> 0.0853
> -0.0010
> 0.0830
> 0.0013
> 0.0829
> 0.0800
> 0.0029
> 0.0817
> 0.0012
> 0.0797
> 0.0032
> 0.0830
> -0.0001
> 0.0804
> 0.0025
> 0.0800
> 0.0766
> 0.0034
> 0.0797
> 0.0003
> 0.0770
> 0.0030
> 0.0804
> -0.0004
> 0.0783
> 0.0017
> 0.0766
> 0.0737
> 0.0029
> 0.0770
> -0.0004
> 0.0739
> 0.0027
> 0.0783
> -0.0017
> 0.0755
> 0.0011
> 0.0737
> 0.0709
> 0.0028
> 0.0739
> -0.0002
> 0.0698
> 0.0039
> 0.0755
> -0.0018
> 0.0725
> 0.0012
> 0.0709
> 0.0683
> 0.0026
> 0.0698
> 0.0011
> 0.0651
> 0.0058
> 0.0725
> -0.0016
> 0.0696
> 0.0013
> 0.0683
> 0.0671
> 0.0012
> 0.0651
> 0.0032
> 0.0605
> 0.0078
> 0.0696
> -0.0013
> 0.0678
> 0.0005
> 0.0671
> 0.0657
> 0.0014
> 0.0605
> 0.0066
> 0.0560
> 0.0111
> 0.0678
> -0.0007
> 0.0665
> 0.0006
> 0.0657
> 0.0644
> 0.0013
> 0.0560
> 0.0097
> 0.0510
> 0.0147
> 0.0665
> -0.0008
> 0.0552
> 0.0105
> 0.0644
> 0.0635
> 0.0009
> 0.0510
> 0.0134
> 0.0510
> 0.0134
> 0.0552
> 0.0092
> 0.0541
> 0.0103
> 0.0635
> 0.0635
> 0.0000
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0541
> 0.0094
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
> 0.0635
> 0.0635
> 0.0000
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
>  
>  
> Vince Garrett
> Project Coordinator b Technology
> Information Technology Services
> Simcoe County District School Board
> (705) 734-6363 Ext: 11404

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Aug 29 16:33:54 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls", 
you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the 
spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two 
Zenith Stromberg needles.

To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles 
with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU 
needles if you want.

Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart 
are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the 
numbers look pretty close indeed.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From igofaster at att.net  Wed Aug 29 16:34:04 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 15:34:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
Message-ID: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an 
engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this time... 
I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this year, 
I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get 
started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there 
specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone Classics 
that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show TR6 
pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same 
piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the 
longer stroke on the TR6....
Any leads on a one stop shop for both?

Bobby Whitehead

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Wed Aug 29 17:06:23 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <503EA06F.6070402@cfl.rr.com>

Nothing sounds like a GT6 engine at full song. TR6 motor would be 
blasphemy. Don't do it!!

Venolia can make the pistons to your spec and I'm sure Carillo can 
supply rods ,too.

Ric Cline is the key to building a really good GT6 motor (sorry, I know 
I have probably said this too many times).

Bob


On 8/29/12 6:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an
> engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this time...
> I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this year,
> I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get
> started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there
> specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Aug 29 17:14:27 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:14:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6 rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYpZPBMEmVFaAdW6_0=S7GJOeJ9SiCbUf5txaB1=63drBQ@mail.gmail.com>

There are many things that make sense to swap out of a GT6.
In my opinion... the motor is NOT one of them.
All those trick parts you speak of are available but I cannot comment on
what's best out there.
Scott J. and I seem to do just fine with pretty basic stuff that has more
less been (motor wise) raced for 40 years...in the group 44 cars, in Kas's
car's.
Steve has taken it beyond with his car (check out his pistons on his
photo site) and I'm sure he is faster.
Take it slow you can always add stuff as you rebuild again.
Ted would be a great choice to get you going quick enough (and give you a
solid foundation for development)
Maybe I'm in the minority but you realy don't have to get so nutty with all
that expensive stuff for the first build.
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an
> engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this
> time...
> I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this
> year,
> I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get
> started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there
> specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone
> Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show
> TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Wed Aug 29 17:24:16 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:24:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194

From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Aug 29 17:38:33 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 23:38:33 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>

just a reminder that on page 110 of my book the "Handbook" there is a chart of
the needles we used with great success in  the 1.5" carbs..  These are
STROMBERG needles. Lots of number to compare. By the way that is .006" shim
stock you need to use an S.U. needle.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: cartravel at pobox.com
> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
>
> Hi,
>
> I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls",
> you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the
> spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two
> Zenith Stromberg needles.
>
> To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles
> with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU
> needles if you want.
>
> Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart
> are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the
> numbers look pretty close indeed.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Aug 29 17:39:18 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:39:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
	<00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
Message-ID: <000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>

Just out of curiosity (and not to start another thread on valve guide
clearance:)) what clearance were you running with the bronze guides?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:24 PM
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Aug 29 18:56:19 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:56:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CFB6D893-8FA8-4C46-A657-AD7638F39825@gmail.com>

Hi Bobby,

How does $710 for a set of forged, shot-peened 4340 H-beam connecting rods
sound?

http://www.maxspeedingrods-store.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500late-1300GT6-TR6-Co
nrods-6-pieces-CR-TRI-TR6.htm

Duncan


On Aug 29, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:

>  I found Wishbone Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show
TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 29 19:06:53 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 21:06:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
	<SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS522F6D14BC169B6D54258FDB2A70@phx.gbl>

Cool thanks Kas. I may have to take a look....

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-29, at 7:39 PM, "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> just a reminder that on page 110 of my book the "Handbook" there is a chart
of
> the needles we used with great success in  the 1.5" carbs..  These are
> STROMBERG needles. Lots of number to compare. By the way that is .006" shim
> stock you need to use an S.U. needle.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: cartravel at pobox.com
>> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls",
>> you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the
>> spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two
>> Zenith Stromberg needles.
>>
>> To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles
>> with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU
>> needles if you want.
>>
>> Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart
>> are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the
>> numbers look pretty close indeed.
>>
>> Regards,
>> rml
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Aug 30 08:29:00 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 07:29:00 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<CFB6D893-8FA8-4C46-A657-AD7638F39825@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E5D044A927641AAA53EE966E5AF3831@Charly>

I have these in my TR6 motor and so far I have no complaints.
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 rebuild ...


> Hi Bobby,
>
> How does $710 for a set of forged, shot-peened 4340 H-beam connecting rods
> sound?
>
> http://www.maxspeedingrods-store.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500late-1300GT6-TR6-Co
> nrods-6-pieces-CR-TRI-TR6.htm
>
> Duncan
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>
>>  I found Wishbone Classics
>> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site 
>> show
> TR6
>> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
>> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was 
>> the
>> longer stroke on the TR6....
>> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 30 11:49:09 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 13:49:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
	<00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
	<000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>
Message-ID: <00c501cd86d7$c2acaf40$48060dc0$@net>

I didn't ask about the tolerances. I simply trusted the machinist.

Because of personal recommendations, I took the head to Automotive Precision
Machinery in Atlanta. The bill was about $600 for re-surfacing the head and
3 angle and assembly. This did not include parts. Upon disassembly, I found
the valve seats single faced. 

They had the crankshaft nitrited and upon assembly I found it not true. I
took it back and they heated it and bent it back to what seemed like perfect
to me. I don't know if that's normal but watching your crankshaft visibly
bent is like watching sausage being made....or worse, watching an abnormal
sex act. 

I would not recommend them to others.

Richard Taylor
TR-4 #196


-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Murphy [mailto:timmurph at fastbytes.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 7:39 PM
To: 'Richard Taylor'; FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

Just out of curiosity (and not to start another thread on valve guide
clearance:)) what clearance were you running with the bronze guides?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:24 PM
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 14:24:03 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 16:24:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Alex Rourke
Message-ID: <098ykkwtesyqs3op5nuyrbfp.1346358243148@email.android.com>

Amici,

Does anyone know Alex Rourke? Not sure where he is from, but I know he ran at Grattan the last couple of years. He drives a yellow 1962 Lotus Elan. If you have an email address, that would be great.

Thanks,

Doug

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 30 14:27:54 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 13:27:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Aug 30 14:46:32 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 15:46:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>

I'll certainly second that!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Edward Dunn
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 3:28 PM
To: 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From chasgee at aol.com  Thu Aug 30 15:30:01 2012
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 14:30:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>

Wow, you made it another year.  Who'd a thought...

Chuck

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 30, 2012, at 1:27 PM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
> Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.
>
> Cheers to Kas!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com

From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 30 16:16:51 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:16:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>
Message-ID: <012801cd86fd$28406890$78c139b0$@net>

Kas,

Happy Birthday.

You are an incredible asset to so may of us. But most especially thank you
for being a friend.

Many happy returns.



Richard  L. Taylor, Jr., FAIA
TAYLOR           ARCHITECTURE
112  Krog  St.     Suite  196
Atlanta,    Georgia,    30307
tel:           (404) 223-1313
fax:           (404) 223-1312
mobile:        (404) 660-4920
www.taylor-architecture.com


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tim Murphy
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 4:47 PM
To: 'Edward Dunn'; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

I'll certainly second that!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Edward Dunn
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 3:28 PM
To: 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From bob at nwspeedshots.com  Thu Aug 30 16:25:02 2012
From: bob at nwspeedshots.com (Bob Pengraph)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 22:25:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.64.1346365340.2450.fot@autox.team.net>

Happy Birthday Kas!
Never be beaten by age!
Take care,
Bob Pengraph
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: chasgee at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 14:30:01 
To: Kas Kastner<kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Wow, you made it another year.  Who'd a thought...

Chuck

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 30, 2012, at 1:27 PM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
> Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.
>
> Cheers to Kas!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bob at nwspeedshots.com

From goodparts at verizon.net  Thu Aug 30 17:33:11 2012
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 19:33:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <874C324F3FF54B74BAF0FBB46BDF5FC6@AdminPC>

I would like to nominate my friend Boyd Wagner to our group.  He is a Triumph
enthusiast and has done beautiful restorations on a TR250 and a 1969 TR6 and
also has a 1974 TR6.  He recently built a Sprite for autocross and hillclimb.

Richard Good

From awashatko at wi.rr.com  Thu Aug 30 17:39:11 2012
From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:39:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
Message-ID: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>

Kas,

Wishing you the best on your birthday.
Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.

In appreciation,

Allen


Allen & Jody Washatko
1971 TR6  - Number 6

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 17:39:23 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 19:39:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <79qn3796ib98ehfid1gdhqr0.1346369963253@email.android.com>

I'll second the nomination.
Cheers,

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

Richard Good <goodparts at verizon.net> wrote:

>I would like to nominate my friend Boyd Wagner to our group.  He is a Triumph
>enthusiast and has done beautiful restorations on a TR250 and a 1969 TR6 and
>also has a 1974 TR6.  He recently built a Sprite for autocross and hillclimb.
>
>Richard Good
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 30 18:58:52 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1058E9DE48A34C374D42268B2A60@phx.gbl>

Happy birthday!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-30, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Kas,
>
> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
>
> In appreciation,
>
> Allen
>
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com

From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Aug 30 19:23:35 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:23:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
	<SNT401-EAS1058E9DE48A34C374D42268B2A60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B47E17B13B5340858C5BC74961883354@Bud>

Happy Birthday Kas..Thanks for all that you do/have done for the racing 
world.
Racer Bud..
Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Vince G" <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 5:58 PM
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas


> Happy birthday!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-08-30, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Kas,
>>
>> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
>> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
>>
>> In appreciation,
>>
>> Allen
>>
>>
>> Allen & Jody Washatko
>> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 19:48:58 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:48:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kas
Message-ID: <496E4F48-887E-4EBB-94BE-D43797094488@sbcglobal.net>

Happy Birthday!

Dennis&Joan

From clw2000 at msn.com  Thu Aug 30 20:35:42 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 22:35:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>

Happy Birthday to an icon of sport!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2012, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Kas,
> 
> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
> 
> In appreciation,
> 
> Allen
> 
> 
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Fri Aug 31 05:36:59 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 07:36:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Not Triumph, but MG parts and cars for sale
References: <003e01cd8719$fc81a760$f584f620$@net>
Message-ID: <6BD2DD53-6B24-43E4-9A40-345A51BCC53C@aol.com>

I got this from another club I am part of.  I am sure someone might be
interested.

Chris
>
>
> B7         bTwo MG B's (b75 & b79) partially dismantled including most
if not all their parts.
>
> B7         A very good size truck load of MG parts including a number of
engine's and transmissions hood, trunks with and without luggage racks,  extra
set of seats just a bunch of stuff.
>
> The cars are on our lot and available to be viewed during normal business
hours the parts we would have to set up an appointment to view but would not
be difficult to do that  I do have some pictures and would be happy to send
them to you just let me know.   Thank you for any leads you find.  We would
prefer to sell everything for one deal at this time but as time goes by we
will start to sell bits and pieces .  Feel free to pass along my email and or
phone number  and again thank you.
>
>
> Ditmire Motorworks
> 425 White Horse Pike
> Absecon, NJ 08201
> (609) 641-3392
>
> ditmiremb at gmail.com
> Feel free to Give me a call I'll be happy to help.  Joelb

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri Aug 31 08:18:23 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 10:18:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot]  Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
	<BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001201cd8783$7ad976b0$708c6410$@net>

Happy Birthday!

Craig

From jason at multivintage.com  Fri Aug 31 12:30:22 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 13:30:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Phiosophical Reflections on GT6 motor internals
Message-ID: <CALCydYoRMYA4RtcyA-z7NzUx4QLqDsRc9ik1bfMsVaZUPPomEA@mail.gmail.com>

There are not that many GT6's out there racing week after week..
I have said before that my approach for the past few years has been to
focus on maintaining the car with the mechanical properties that have been
long time race proven.
"Knowledge" gained from studying the great cars I grew up with here in the
Midwest and lucky to have my own working historical template, I remain true
to many seemingly "old school" ways.
Not surprisingly, what I have found to be the working norm usually follows
pretty close in line with Kas's early yellow version of the
"Competition Preparation Manual" for the GT6+...
reoccurringly and affectionately referred to in my garage as "the little
yellow book"

This takes me back to fond memories of perhaps the Silver Age of GT6ing (In
my mind)((from the mid 1970's to the mid 80's)). The factory cars had
disappeared. The guys that were left racing GT6's were still trying to keep
the cars running like the factory backed cars of years earlier.
To do this, you basically had to have a GT6 graveyard in your backyard. And
if you were very lucky you could find access to those coveted "V" parts...
which had virtually disappeared as well.
However, with close attention to details in "the little yellow book" using
parts from your backyard graveyard... you could foil Datsuns and Alfas for
a class win.
If the stars were in alignment, you might even be a real underdog hero
and nudge out a super sized GT1 muscle car for the overall win.

Of course, you hear about Group 44 and Kastner and Cline and their glorious
GT6's.
In my world, there was a guy named Dennis Moeller who pioneered the
campaign of GT6's in the Midwest. There were a few more names that dabbled
with the cars as well but my learning came mostly from hanging around the
cars of John Reed and my Dad... as they continued to fight the battle in
GT6's for many years.
Builders and racers that worked with very little (in the way of new
parts)... but with attention to details and many grueling hours of smart
preparation of mostly used Triumph Parts or custom "one offs"... they held
there own.
My modest friend John Reed is not the type to talk much about winning in
his "Zippy"... but his record is quite impressive. He won tons of races
back in the day and was always in contention for the Midwestern Council DP
championship. I have yet to meet a driver that  finished more events in a
GT6.
As a lucky second generation GT6 addict, I am fortunate to have these guys
(John and my Dad) as Coaches, advisers and aging crew members.
And as the self appointed curator of our three cars and a few spare motors
I can say, rather proudly, that they all have stock connecting rods and
stock pistons.
Each motor varies in potency. A couple are real killers and through it all
have been pretty much bulletproof.
Somehow over the past 40 years the three main cars managed to rack up over
400 race finishes.  .
My plan is to have all three (very different) cars up at Road America for
the next Kastner Cup. Each with it's corresponding "Legend of motorsport"

Now, not to be narrow minded, or resistant to change, or stuck with a 1972
rule book in hand....
Someday I would like to try my hand (budget pending) with some of the newer
trick stuff out there and I do support any newfangled modern production of
quality parts.The parts that we have used in these motors has been mostly
a matter of means and, more importantly, has followed efforts of being able
to keep them built and tuned "in house" with limited equipment.  Most
importantly, they need to be assembled with personal notes, the illustrated
factory manuals and help from that old "little yellow book."

Whatever parts you have or decide to put in your GT6, Please, please make
plans to bring them ALL to the next Kastner Cup.
Shot peened steel?, aluminium?, carbon fiber?....bring it to Road America a
year from now.
LET'S RACE!

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug  1 19:42:01 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 21:42:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 ENGINE    AVAILABLE   FLORENCE, AL
In-Reply-To: <8CF3E4F1FAB241D-1708-1CE4A@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF325AF65E7762-EFC-8FA9@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3BE67B45F9D1-21C8-31D44@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3C0794C85C57-DB0-25729@web-mmc-m03.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3E4F1FAB241D-1708-1CE4A@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF3E67252E2F0B-16F8-92FA@webmail-m145.sysops.aol.com>

Marv Gruber says he has an engine available. I am just passing it along. His
email is below.



-----Original Message-----
From: Mgruber921 <mgruber921 at aol.com>
To: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2012 5:50 pm
Subject: Re: TR3 FRAME?


Joe
bought some more parts this week. Got a TR4a big valve engine in. All
disassembled looks good. Crank bearings are std. Having the head checked
tomorrow. Know anyone wanting a TR4a engine? $400

Marv


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  1 19:50:11 2012
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 19:50:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
Message-ID: <C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>

I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque  
2014.
The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is  
a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a  
Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good  
choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show  
needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.  
There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in  
1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky  
mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225  
plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four  
star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the  
track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of  
Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the trip.
When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've  
looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is  
still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really  
don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the  
idea.
I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in  
between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and  
through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered  
about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power  
challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is  
not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to  
be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with  
enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more  
track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be  
able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather  
here lasts into early November.
I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid  
info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
Thanks,
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM
On Jul 31, 2012, at 4:58 PM, Walter Hollowell wrote:

> I wish to put in a strong plug for NAPA Speedway in Albuquerque,  
> New Mexico
> for the 2014 Kastner Cup event. We have a nice 1.7 mile 14 corner  
> technical
> road course that my local road race club uses. This track is  
> located right
> off of I-40. The facilities are first class including lots of RV  
> hook-ups.
> New Mexico has lots to offer when visitors are not on the  
> racetrack.  I have
> spoken to one of the owners of the track and he is very supportive of
> hosting this event. You can check out the speedway at:  
> www.napaspeedway.com
> I can be your initial contact on this project if there is any  
> interest. You
> can also check out some club racing at this track at our website:
> www.swms.com
> Thank You for your Consideration
>
> Walt Hollowell
> Albuquerque, New Mexico
> Ph 505 362-4350
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot- 
> bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 1:42 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
>
> Russ Moore has a brilliant plan for TRIUMPHS at MOSPORT in June of
> 2014.........................
>
> Kas and I are targeting dates and a venue that does not conflict  
> with Russ'
> planning.
>
> We are looking at the SOUTH and WEST and in the second half of the
> year....maybe later in the second half of the year.
>
> New tracks are candidates
> Probability of good weather is a plus....no 90 - 100 degree temps  
> FESTIVAL
> EVENTS have never been a requirement.
> We dont need to have 50 TRIUMPHS entered to have a good time..
>
> Geographically, it just isnt possible to satisfy all of North America.
> Having one big event each year has never been a goal.....witness Russ'
> efforts.
>
> I have had two FOT folks step forward for 2014 and both proposals are
> candidates.
> More choices and proposals are requested.
>
> Please step forward.....THANKS!
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot- 
> tr6.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
> lunkercars at earthlink.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug  1 22:26:48 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2012 23:26:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
	<C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.140.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

swms.com seems to be a web parking site. so I'm not getting any love 
from it.  www.napaspeedway.com doesn't say anything about when the 
SWMS events are run.

It's about a 20 hour drive for me which may be doable, Mosport is 
just a little closer.  It would be helpful to know about when in the 
year this event could be scheduled for.

I think the main thing needed is to figure out if the date could work 
(to me, depending on normal weather - ie not blazingly hot, Sept / 
Oct / Nov would be good) and determine who would spearhead the 
event.  Sounds like Walt and Lunker are good candidates there.  Of 
course, the Mosport side is still being discussed, so I still 
consider it a tentative event.  That one's in June - it's an awesome 
track to run, I was thinking of going back there in 2013 as the Kas 
Cup is closer to home that year but would delay a year to have a 
return trip coincide with a stronger Triumph showing.  From the 
Napaspeedway site, I'm kinda getting an IRP (Indianapolis Raceway 
Park) vibe - road track that could use a bit more love with an oval 
nestled inside.  Make the front straight also be a drag strip and 
it'd be closer.  I liked that track, too bad we don't go there anymore.

Tony Drews

At 08:50 PM 8/1/2012, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote:
>I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque
>2014.
>The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is
>a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a
>Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good
>choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show
>needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.
>There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in
>1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
>Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky
>mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225
>plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four
>star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the
>track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of
>Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the trip.
>When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've
>looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is
>still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really
>don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the
>idea.
>I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in
>between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and
>through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered
>about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power
>challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is
>not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to
>be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with
>enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more
>track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be
>able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather
>here lasts into early November.
>I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid
>info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
>Thanks,
>Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>TR4 #314
>Albuquerque NM


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  1 23:04:13 2012
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 23:04:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <201208020027.1sWN0s5Pl3Nl34d1@mx-pinchot.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
	<C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
	<201208020027.1sWN0s5Pl3Nl34d1@mx-pinchot.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <023C9B9D-42DF-4894-BEAF-D1B5302783AB@earthlink.net>

Right you are Tony!
My mistake... go to http://swms.org/ . NAPA Speedway is a fairly new  
entity - might not be too useful yet for web info.
As I understand, the Mosport event is Triumph oriented to the max but  
not the site of the 2014 Kas Cup.
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM

On Aug 1, 2012, at 10:26 PM, Tony Drews wrote:

> swms.com seems to be a web parking site. so I'm not getting any  
> love from it.  www.napaspeedway.com doesn't say anything about when  
> the SWMS events are run.
>
> It's about a 20 hour drive for me which may be doable, Mosport is  
> just a little closer.  It would be helpful to know about when in  
> the year this event could be scheduled for.
>
> I think the main thing needed is to figure out if the date could  
> work (to me, depending on normal weather - ie not blazingly hot,  
> Sept / Oct / Nov would be good) and determine who would spearhead  
> the event.  Sounds like Walt and Lunker are good candidates there.   
> Of course, the Mosport side is still being discussed, so I still  
> consider it a tentative event.  That one's in June - it's an  
> awesome track to run, I was thinking of going back there in 2013 as  
> the Kas Cup is closer to home that year but would delay a year to  
> have a return trip coincide with a stronger Triumph showing.  From  
> the Napaspeedway site, I'm kinda getting an IRP (Indianapolis  
> Raceway Park) vibe - road track that could use a bit more love with  
> an oval nestled inside.  Make the front straight also be a drag  
> strip and it'd be closer.  I liked that track, too bad we don't go  
> there anymore.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 08:50 PM 8/1/2012, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote:
>> I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque
>> 2014.
>> The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is
>> a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a
>> Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good
>> choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show
>> needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.
>> There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in
>> 1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
>> Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky
>> mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225
>> plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four
>> star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the
>> track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of
>> Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the  
>> trip.
>> When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've
>> looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is
>> still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really
>> don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the
>> idea.
>> I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in
>> between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and
>> through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered
>> about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power
>> challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is
>> not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to
>> be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with
>> enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more
>> track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be
>> able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather
>> here lasts into early November.
>> I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid
>> info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
>> Thanks,
>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>> TR4 #314
>> Albuquerque NM


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Aug  2 08:05:40 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:05:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP 2014 VENUE SELECTION by PROPOSAL a request.
Message-ID: <8CF3ECF085BFD38-2044-24D97@webmail-d055.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

Thanks for the responses and observations. Now down to business.

It looks like we are ripe for running the KASTNER CUP at a smaller venue with
a hardy band of local Triumph Racers leading the way.

We have had some great events at the larger storied venues. Kas senses it is
time to go back to grassroots basics for a race among ourselves without the
distractions of a big 'festival' events

ONE PAGE PROPOSALS wanted:

VENUE
SANCTIONING BODY
PROPOSED EVENT
DATES
ENTRY FEE ESTIMATE
LINKS TO RELEVANT INFORMATION

Expectations are that we have a stand alone KASTNER CUP RACE with at least one
practice session within our group. Kas Kastner might be considered GRAND
MARSHALL for the weekend.

The availability of a dedicated paddock area for the Triumphs would be a
reasonable expectation and a 20 x 20  'Hospitality Tent' or area would be a
plus.

A destination location with some of the features listed is good, along with a
proposed host hotel.

Selection might take place by AUGUST 2013 in time to be announced at the
Kastner Cup 2012 at Road America.  Does this planning seem a bit early? No. It
takes a lot of planning and organization to do this right.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Thu Aug  2 15:54:53 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
Message-ID: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Triumph Friends,

I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
GT6.
The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From clw2000 at msn.com  Thu Aug  2 16:06:39 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 18:06:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>

Jason -

This guy has something of a Triumph graveyard.  I'm sure they would need
rebuilding, but if you're desperate try him:

Don Trammel - 864-787-0622

Thanks,

Chuck Watson


Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers
Columbia, Greenville, Spartanburg & Lexington, SC









> Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
>
> Hello Triumph Friends,
>
> I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
> GT6.
> The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
> I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From list at mackenzie.aero  Thu Aug  2 16:19:21 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 17:19:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004501cd70fc$dde08200$99a18600$@aero>

Joe Curto has a set of Euro spec 150 he tried to sell me not too long ago.

Joe Curto, Inc.
22-09 126th Street
College Point, NY 11356
(718)762-SUSU (7878)
Joecurto.com


Robert Mackenzie
Austin TX



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Charles WATSON
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 5:07 PM
To: jason at multivintage.com; FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs

Jason -

This guy has something of a Triumph graveyard.  I'm sure they would need
rebuilding, but if you're desperate try him:

Don Trammel - 864-787-0622

Thanks,

Chuck Watson


Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers
Columbia, Greenville, Spartanburg & Lexington, SC









> Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
>
> Hello Triumph Friends,
>
> I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
> GT6.
> The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
> I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/list at mackenzie.aero


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Aug  3 07:37:20 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 09:37:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com>
	<8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Aug  3 08:50:56 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 10:50:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com><8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com><CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com><8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>

SPEC Clutches in Birmingham AL has many different types of racing clutches
for TR's 2 - 8.  The one in my TR3 with a close ratio gear set is a stage 3
paddle type.   Remember, the splines on a close ratio are different than a
stock box.  


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 9:37 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Aug  3 08:53:59 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 10:53:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com><8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com><CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com><8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <8CF3F9EF267909F-1A68-1C6F6@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>

yes....we have CR box and TREVOR built to our spec.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: john hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: 'Joe Alexander' <n197tr4 at cs.com>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Aug 3, 2012 9:51 am
Subject: RE: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW


SPEC Clutches in Birmingham AL has many different types of racing clutches
for TR's 2 - 8.  The one in my TR3 with a close ratio gear set is a stage 3
paddle type.   Remember, the splines on a close ratio are different than a
stock box.


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 9:37 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 14:03:38 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 14:03:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
Message-ID: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>

That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


From mnewman at embarqmail.com  Fri Aug  3 14:35:13 2012
From: mnewman at embarqmail.com (William T newman)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 16:35:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1592909033.362764.1344026113870.JavaMail.root@md23.embarq.synacor.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 02 Aug 2012 17:54:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
Jason:
I have a stock GT6 manifold with Strombergs in my storage. I don't know the year, but will let them go for cheap. Make me an offer off list or call me at 239-229-5766.
Bill Newman 
#44 GT6

Hello Triumph Friends,

I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
GT6.
The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Aug  3 16:28:02 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 15:28:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>
References: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDHzRORD-jznRcbdYmaphpTquAoaVr5twd1y68twQeAig@mail.gmail.com>

Not if ... WHEN

On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost
> parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it to
> Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're looking for
> things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B posts.
>
> So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying another
> my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The celebration may be
> short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.
>
> Somberly,
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/triosan@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com>
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 17:15:59 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 17:15:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sad Day - I sold a Triumph
Message-ID: <C7C79163-97A8-459D-B25C-AAE246689B21@comcast.net>

That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived though if (more like when) I buy a  
vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug  4 02:22:02 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2012 02:22:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Way behind
Message-ID: <501CDBAA.4000804@bradakis.com>

I'm way behind in dealing with my email.  If there are outstanding 
nominations,
queries, problems, etc. I will be working on getting caught up over the 
weekend.

mjb.


From grmtim at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 06:57:07 2012
From: grmtim at aol.com (Timothy Suddard)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 08:57:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at RM Auctions
In-Reply-To: <4FED1434.3000208@bradakis.com>
References: <1236236296-1340723843-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2103436145-@b5.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<8CF21CA1DCCD28C-CF8-19212@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd53c4$e5c94240$b15bc6c0$@rr.com> <4FEA4E00.2060004@pobox.com>
	<4FECE7E5.6080402@pobox.com> <4FED1434.3000208@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CF4057C985B47B-15F4-2F2C8@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com>

As many of you already know, I have the Group 44, Inc. GT6+ listed at the RM
Auction in Monterey. It is lot #205 and will be the fifth car out on Saturday
night, August 18th. I donbt need to keep two race cars and have two kids
heading to college starting this fall. Yes, my son Tommy, who many of you also
know, is heading to my and Margie's alma mater, Stetson University, to study
family business, so he can take over the magazines someday. I also need to be
looking for the next car to write about. That is the nature of my world.That
said, I will most likely never sell my beloved TR3 and we plan on racing it at
Lime Rock, Labor Day weekend.

While I got some very strong offers for the GT6, I really donbt know what it
is worth and decided the fairest thing to do, both for the Triumph community
and for my family was to put it up for public auction, (with no reserve, by
the way) and let the chips fall where they may. I believe Saturday night, at
Monterey RM, is the best venue for this car. The restoration and history are
very openly and (hopefully) well documented in Classic Motorsports and now at
our website:
http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1969-triumph-group-44-gt6/

If you have serious interest please call me at: (386 239-0523) or email me at
tim at grassrootsmotorsports.com. A link to the RM Catalog is:
http://www.rmauctions.com/digitalcatalogs/2012/MO12/

I will obviously be at the auction Saturday night, if you want to say hi or
talk Triumphs. I want to thank everyone on the list who helped me with the car
and let everyone know, I am not going anywhere, just going back to my TR3 and
maybe looking for a TR4 next.

Obviously with no reserve, I am a bit nervous. Please help me spread the word,
talk up the car and bid high and often. You can bid online, or in advance via
email or phone, I believe.


From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Aug  4 12:34:46 2012
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 18:34:46 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Fw: TR4 Sale
Message-ID: <2019432003-1344105288-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1952047352-@b28.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Hello team... Just forwarding this along... nfi.
Mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2012 10:16:26 
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>
Subject: Re: TR4 Sale

*OK Here goes!*
*TR4 sale-1962 RACE CAR*
*VERY FAST,NEWLY RESTORED,(driver/owner retiring) ALL SPARES AND 20FT
ENCLOSED TRAILER INCL. MANY NEW PARTS,NEWLY SAND BLASTED AND PAINTED!*
*Ready to race in  all vintage clubs and events--must see*
*ALAN PINEL770- 337-2967 OR alanlpinel.pinel @ gmail.com
*
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 9:27 AM, <gasket.works at gte.net> wrote:

> **
> Alan;
> Nice... But, I can't forward a document nor A photo. If you incorporate
> your document in an email without an attachment I will send it. Make sure
> you put contact info.
>
> Mordy.
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> ------------------------------
> *From: * Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
> *Date: *Sat, 04 Aug 2012 06:42:57 -0700
> *To: *<gasket.works at gte.net>
> *Subject: *Re: TR4 Sale
>
> *OK thanks!*
> *
> *
> On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 12:14 PM, <gasket.works at gte.net> wrote:
>
>> **
>> If you list what you are selling I will forward it to the friends of
>> triumph. Include your contact info. I can only forward text no photo's. A
>> link to photo's can be forwarded if yu have such.
>> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: * Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
>> *Date: *Fri, 03 Aug 2012 11:56:37 -0700
>> *To: *<gasket.works at gte.net>
>> *Subject: *TR4 Sale
>>
>> *I am trying to sell my race car! Whatsite do I go on?*
>> *Thanks*
>> *Alan*


From robertten1 at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 17:54:46 2012
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:54:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
Message-ID: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the dyno
shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
engine.

To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in engine
note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked the
timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs around
and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no change
in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections at
the battery.

I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The Mallory
is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a leak-down
test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem I
would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder to
verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from Kas
)

I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place )
reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???

I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made some
changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2 step
leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But no
change to effect the misfire problem.

And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs just
no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??

So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one here
suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem


Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
A/E flat top pistons  +.040
Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
10/10 crank polished and balanced
Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
Duplex timing chain set-up
Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold


Stumpdified,
Bob T.


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  4 18:35:44 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:35:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1C79832D-5AB0-49E2-A3D4-6740C1183A9B@gmail.com>

Bob,

You mentioned that there is spark going to the plugs -- but were you able to
determine whether the plugs themselves are actually producing a visible spark?
If you removed those plugs, reconnected the wires, and then laid them on the
engine so that they could find ground, and still saw a spark, it would seem
you've completely eliminated that unless there is some way the current is
going to ground without creating a spark at the plug electrodes.

At any rate, it would be interesting to find out what you'd see if you used a
Colortune plug on one of the bad cylinders vs. one of the good cylinders.

If you're getting fire and compression, it would seem that the only variable
left would be fuel/air in or out of those two cylinders.  Any chance either
intake or exhaust manifold is restricted on those two cylinders?  #1 and #4
are connected via the tri-Y, right?...

The Weber sends one throat to #1 and #2, and the other to #3 and #4, right?

One more idea that's a bit far-fetched.  Any chance the cam lobes for #1 and
#4 are very differently shaped from those on #2 and #3?  You'd see normal
valve lash and get compression, but perhaps the valves are not opening very
far or for very long, which could affect power.  You might find it interesting
to put a degree wheel on the engine and see what the valve timing is like for
each individual cylinder.

Duncan
(Texas)


On Aug 4, 2012, at 6:54 PM, robertten1 at aol.com wrote:

> Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the
dyno
> shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
> hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
> engine.
>
> To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in
engine
> note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
the
> timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
around
> and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
change
> in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
at
> the battery.
>
> I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
> other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
> PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
Mallory
> is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
> problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
> both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.
>
> I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a
leak-down
> test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem
I
> would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
> cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
to
> verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from
Kas
> )
>
> I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place
)
> reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
> started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???
>
> I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
some
> changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
> Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
> screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2
step
> leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
no
> change to effect the misfire problem.
>
> And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
just
> no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
> performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??
>
> So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
here
> suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem
>
>
> Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
> A/E flat top pistons  +.040
> Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
> 6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
> 10/10 crank polished and balanced
> Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
> Duplex timing chain set-up
> Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
> Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
> Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold
>
>
> Stumpdified,
> Bob T.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Aug  4 20:51:37 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 21:51:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>

Have you tried the old trick of spraying carb cleaner around the intake
manifold and carb mounting on #1 and #4 to see if you somehow have a massive
intake leak causing a very lean mixture and the misfire?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of robertten1 at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 6:55 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net; net at newenglandtriumphs.org; nedyno at gmail.co
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2

Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the dyno
shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
engine.

To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in engine
note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
the
timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
around
and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
change
in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
at
the battery.

I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
Mallory
is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a leak-down
test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem
I
would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
to
verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from Kas
)

I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place )
reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???

I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
some
changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2 step
leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
no
change to effect the misfire problem.

And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
just
no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??

So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
here
suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem


Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
A/E flat top pistons  +.040
Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
10/10 crank polished and balanced
Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
Duplex timing chain set-up
Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold


Stumpdified,
Bob T.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From tr6driver at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  4 21:23:31 2012
From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 23:23:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
	<000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>
Message-ID: <6AAE981C-B19B-420B-8C9D-7DD2D9C1F3E4@yahoo.com>

Experienced this today with a tr6 engine startup.  Check your valve clearances
on 1 and 4.  Lack of compression = lack of firing.  We had valves too tight.
Took us 3-4 hours to figure it out...

Jamie Palmer


On Aug 4, 2012, at 10:51 PM, "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com> wrote:

> Have you tried the old trick of spraying carb cleaner around the intake
> manifold and carb mounting on #1 and #4 to see if you somehow have a
massive
> intake leak causing a very lean mixture and the misfire?
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of robertten1 at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 6:55 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net; net at newenglandtriumphs.org; nedyno at gmail.co
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the
dyno
> shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
> hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
> engine.
>
> To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in
engine
> note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
> the
> timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
> around
> and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
> change
> in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
> at
> the battery.
>
> I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
> other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
> PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
> Mallory
> is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
> problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
> both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.
>
> I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a
leak-down
> test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a
problem
> I
> would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
> cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
> to
> verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from
Kas
> )
>
> I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place
)
> reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
> started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???
>
> I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
> some
> changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
> Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
> screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2
step
> leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
> no
> change to effect the misfire problem.
>
> And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
> just
> no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
> performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??
>
> So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
> here
> suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem
>
>
> Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
> A/E flat top pistons  +.040
> Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
> 6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
> 10/10 crank polished and balanced
> Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
> Duplex timing chain set-up
> Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
> Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
> Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold
>
>
> Stumpdified,
> Bob T.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Aug  6 17:27:23 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
Message-ID: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From cartravel at pobox.com  Mon Aug  6 17:52:20 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2012 18:52:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
Message-ID: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>

This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had 
a problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back 
in the 1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many 
ignition configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During 
recent rebuild, I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot 
spots and of course all the carbon has been removed, but the problem 
still persists.  There is additional tuning I should and will do such as 
carb rebuilds, carb needles, timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect 
this problem will continue.  The solution for later Triumphs and other 
British cars was the anti run-on valve.  It appears that the simplest 
retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 valve.  Basically, the 
valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods the manifold with 
air making the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where do I find 
one of these valves?  They do not appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
Larry


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Aug  6 20:26:36 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 19:26:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1344306396.63242.YahooMailClassic@web181401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Jason: Helpful hint for the future...sorry it comes too late. I use a hole saw
and drill the rubber and center tube out. Then I use a hacksaw blade (you
could use an air driven hacksaw) and cut through the outer tube. One cut is
usually enough; sometimes it takes two cuts. That allows the tube to
collaspe.  To put the new ones in, I bevel the leading edge and smear
anti-seize on the the metal outside. A press makes these go right in.
Again, sorry you had a less then joyful day.
-Ed- 

--- On Mon, 8/6/12, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:


From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, August 6, 2012, 6:27 PM


Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net


From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Aug  6 20:30:28 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 02:30:28 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>

In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would cure
the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:52:20 -0500
> From: cartravel at pobox.com
> To: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
>
> This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had
> a problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back
> in the 1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many
> ignition configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During
> recent rebuild, I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot
> spots and of course all the carbon has been removed, but the problem
> still persists.  There is additional tuning I should and will do such as
> carb rebuilds, carb needles, timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect
> this problem will continue.  The solution for later Triumphs and other
> British cars was the anti run-on valve.  It appears that the simplest
> retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 valve.  Basically, the
> valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods the manifold with
> air making the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where do I find
> one of these valves?  They do not appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Aug  6 20:30:34 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 19:30:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <1344306634.24240.YahooMailClassic@web181406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Larry: Send me your address and one will miraculously appear in your mail box
from the run-on gods.
Life is good:O)
-ED-

--- On Mon, 8/6/12, Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com> wrote:


From: Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com>
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, August 6, 2012, 6:52 PM


This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had a
problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back in the
1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many ignition
configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During recent rebuild,
I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot spots and of course
all the carbon has been removed, but the problem still persists.  There is
additional tuning I should and will do such as carb rebuilds, carb needles,
timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect this problem will continue.  The
solution for later Triumphs and other British cars was the anti run-on valve. 
It appears that the simplest retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535
valve.  Basically, the valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods
the manifold with air making the mixture too weak to support combustion. 
Where do I find one of these valves?  They do not
 appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Aug  6 22:03:04 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 21:03:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <1344312184.16300.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

With my TR6 there is still a bit of run on even with the valve.  It doesn't
seem 
to be the end of the world to kill it with a combination of clutch
out brake 
in.  Jim




________________________________
From: Larry Young
<cartravel at pobox.com>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, August 6, 2012 5:13:08
PM
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535

This question is not of interest
to racers, but my street TR250 has had a 
problem with run-on or dieseling
since leaded premium went away back in the 
1980s.  This has continued through
several carb rebuilds, many ignition 
configuration changes and recently an
engine rebuild.  During recent rebuild, I 
tried to remove any sharp areas
that might create hot spots and of course all 
the carbon has been removed,
but the problem still persists.  There is 
additional tuning I should and will
do such as carb rebuilds, carb needles, 
timing advance curves, etc., but I
suspect this problem will continue.  The 
solution for later Triumphs and
other British cars was the anti run-on valve.  
It appears that the simplest
retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 
valve.  Basically, the valve
opens when the ignition is turned off and floods 
the manifold with air making
the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where 
do I find one of these
valves?  They do not appear to be available except on 
ebay.uk.
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sherryjimmy6116 at att.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug  7 00:00:43 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 06:00:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.141.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug  7 03:05:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 02:05:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <20120807060945.E279B2D0764@autox.team.net>
References: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<20120807060945.E279B2D0764@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <16e601cd747b$c3969ec0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which 
> slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. 

Something to watch for, though, not all new bearings are the same thickness
as the old ones.  I opened a pair of diff carrier bearings the other day
that were not only both different than the originals, but different from
each other!  

I've ordered another pair from a different source, supposedly Timken brand
this time, maybe they'll be better.  But last time I went through this, the
input bearing was different by roughly .030" and they were both Timkens.

-- Randall  


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Tue Aug  7 07:28:11 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 06:28:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <20120807060928.250F22D0748@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Chris:
I believe one of us is mistaken in what Jason was doing. I'm under the impression the he was replacing the mounting bushings on the rear of a Spit/GT6 pumpkin. I think you believe he was replacing the carrier bearings.
Either way, he's over the hump and it's well earned smiles now and something to talk about in the paddock on a Saturday night.
-Ed-

--- On Tue, 8/7/12, tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:


From: tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>, fot-bounces at autox.team.net, "triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2012, 1:00 AM


Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug  7 07:58:48 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 15:58:48 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <20120807060928.250F22D0748@autox.team.net>
	<1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002e01cd74a4$c5e4b0d0$51ae1270$@com>

I think you are right.

I was on the wrong path.

 

Von: EDWARD BARNARD [mailto:edwardbarnard at prodigy.net] 
Gesendet: Dienstag, 7. August 2012 15:28
An: Jason Ostrowski; triumph friends; tr4racing at googlemail.com
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential

 


Chris:

I believe one of us is mistaken in what Jason was doing. I'm under the
impression the he was replacing the mounting bushings on the rear of a
Spit/GT6 pumpkin. I think you believe he was replacing the carrier bearings.
Either way, he's over the hump and it's well earned smiles now and something
to talk about in the paddock on a Saturday night.

-Ed-


--- On Tue, 8/7/12, tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
wrote:


From: tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>, fot-bounces at autox.team.net,
"triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2012, 1:00 AM

Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times
are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff
without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the
final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=jason at multivintage.com> >
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.netDat
e> : Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net> 

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From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  7 10:08:41 2012
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 09:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1344355721.27100.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web122202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

  http://spsp2.free.fr/foxnews.board.php?yahoo=gydjzix&lucky=84comxepamjrygomailzaselugo&lng=en


From cartravel at pobox.com  Tue Aug  7 11:37:28 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 12:37:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
	<SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <50215258.40100@pobox.com>

I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might 
get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still 
occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.  
I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and 
would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I 
was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it 
didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it 
requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The 
ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it 
could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll 
be glad to take it off your hands.
Larry

On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would 
> cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue Aug  7 12:22:59 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:22:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <50215258.40100@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com><SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
	<50215258.40100@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <660C1957BDA74575917FE17E6359005A@rileyPC>

the refusal to achieve a slower idle speed makes me suspect a vacuum leak.


art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Larry Young
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:37 PM
To: Kas Kastner
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535

I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might
get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still
occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.
I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and
would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I
was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it
didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it
requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The
ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it
could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll
be glad to take it off your hands.
Larry

On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would
> cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.
_______________________________________________
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-----
No virus found in this message.
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Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5183 - Release Date: 08/07/12 


From pcdelux at verizon.net  Tue Aug  7 14:30:19 2012
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (William Dewar)
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 16:30:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com><SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
	<50215258.40100@pobox.com> <660C1957BDA74575917FE17E6359005A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <002e01cd74db$770b1fd0$2101a8c0@usera1aa7i3nf0>

The later cars that used the anti-runon had carbs that were plumbed
differently than the 68-71 versions. They also had a different oil pressure
switch to momentarily activate anti-run on shut down. I do not have a TR6
manual handy but looking at the emissions and wiring diagram on a 75-76 TR6
should explain it.I don't think it was designed just to cause a large vacuum
leak but to mess with the vacuum-pressure balance in the carb behind the
throttle plate. You probably can make it work on an earlier carb setup, just
not exactly as designed for the later one. They also had much lower
compression which probably aided shut down. It would be interesting to hear
if any one on the list has made it work on an early car.

Bill DeWar
NJTA
----- Original Message -----
From: <riverside at southslope.net>
To: "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com>; "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535


> the refusal to achieve a slower idle speed makes me suspect a vacuum leak.
>
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Young
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:37 PM
> To: Kas Kastner
> Cc: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
>
> I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might
> get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still
> occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.
> I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and
> would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I
> was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it
> didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it
> requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The
> ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it
> could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll
> be glad to take it off your hands.
> Larry
>
> On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> > In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would
> > cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5183 - Release Date: 08/07/12
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Thu Aug  9 14:10:55 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 16:10:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] for sale-R&P set/TR pistons
Message-ID: <007001cd766b$158c0ad0$40a42070$@rr.com>

WTS:

I have a new in the box ring and pinion gear set I am selling to finance
another small project. This is a 3.7:1 ratio and is new in the box. I would
like to sell it for $450.

This fits the TR-2 through the TR-6.

 

 

Also a set of 4 new in the box AE Hepolite pistons for TR3-4 in a 86MM+.020"
size. These are in the original box and are complete with rings; pins and
clips. Part number is 12655 or later was 113560. I am asking $240 for these,
again to fund another British based project. It's an addiction!

 

Please contact me privately if you are interested or have questions. 

 

Russ Moore

Spitfire #49


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Mon Aug 13 01:12:25 2012
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 17:12:25 +1000
Subject: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Listers,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for TR6 Fiberglass panels? I think we had a
discussion about 'quality' suppliers some time ago? But can't recall the
general consensus or outcome.

 

Many thanks

 

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4

_______________________________________________

 <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> fot at autox.team.net

 

 <http://www.fot-racing.com> http://www.fot-racing.com

 

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 13 01:46:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 09:46:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <001301cd7927$b8ec45f0$2ac4d1d0$@com>

I buy my parts here:

http://www.honeybournemouldings.co.uk/default.htm

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Peter Vucinic
Gesendet: Montag, 13. August 2012 09:12
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels

Listers,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for TR6 Fiberglass panels? I think we had a
discussion about 'quality' suppliers some time ago? But can't recall the
general consensus or outcome.



Many thanks



Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4

_______________________________________________

 <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> fot at autox.team.net



 <http://www.fot-racing.com> http://www.fot-racing.com



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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon Aug 13 10:15:36 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 12:15:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] thinning the herd. so to speak
Message-ID: <004201cd796e$df83e960$9e8bbc20$@rr.com>

I have a 40 year old stash (hoarded!) of TR-3 and TR-4/4A/250 sheetmetal. I
will cut some loose to fund the next British restoration "adventure" if
anyone is interested. Realize it is NOT economically feasible to ship a
TR-250 hood to Oregon....... Possibly could relay panels through other
racers, exchanging at events.

 

Please contact me off line if interested or with questions and let me know
what you're looking for.

 

TR-3/4 pistons are sold, taking offers on the New in Box ring and pinion
gear set for TR2-6.

 

Russ Moore


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon Aug 13 13:57:35 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 15:57:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: thinning the herd. so to speak
Message-ID: <009401cd798d$e28662e0$a79328a0$@rr.com>

Sorry, I forgot to mention I am located in upstate NY (14817). This is about
28 miles from Watkins Glen where there is a vintage race in September (SVRA)
and also one in October (VRG).

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 12:16 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] thinning the herd. so to speak

I have a 40 year old stash (hoarded!) of TR-3 and TR-4/4A/250 sheetmetal. I
will cut some loose to fund the next British restoration "adventure" if
anyone is interested. Realize it is NOT economically feasible to ship a
TR-250 hood to Oregon....... Possibly could relay panels through other
racers, exchanging at events.

 

Please contact me off line if interested or with questions and let me know
what you're looking for.

 

TR-3/4 pistons are sold, taking offers on the New in Box ring and pinion
gear set for TR2-6.

 

Russ Moore
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From craigl at leinickegroup.com  Tue Aug 14 08:24:23 2012
From: craigl at leinickegroup.com (Craig Leinicke)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:24:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Parts For Sale
Message-ID: <CC4FC9C7.E307%craigl@leinickegroup.com>

TR6 Parts for Sale

1972 TR6 roller fitted with 4 fiberglass fenders, fiberglass rockers, and
fiberglass rear cowl, still in gel coat. Highly modified rear suspension.
Hubs modified for oversize rotors and calipers. $500 Clear title in hand.

TR6 differential center section set up with Detroit Locker limited slip and
4.1 gear set. Condition is probably NOS. $1000. (plus shipping)

Craig Leinicke
Flashback Racing
(636) 236-8452
Ellisville, MO


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 11:03:48 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 13:03:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
Message-ID: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>

Amici,

Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue Aug 14 13:44:57 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 14:44:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
In-Reply-To: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>
References: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <800E7E463EE94FABB9A18BEE1FDD9922@rileyPC>

I think that date is the ChumpCar race at Iowa Speedway in Newton.
I will be there as crew for Team Quadrifoolio.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Doug Mitchell
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:03 PM
To: Fot
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS

Amici,

Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5197 - Release Date: 08/13/12 


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 14:15:21 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
Message-ID: <3eokmk7s4a5a43kxsjwy6c9b.1344975321526@email.android.com>

There are races at both locations. According to the ChumpCar site, the race at Iowa is a 24 hour one, while the race at MIS is a double 7.

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

riverside at southslope.net wrote:

>I think that date is the ChumpCar race at Iowa Speedway in Newton.
>I will be there as crew for Team Quadrifoolio.
>
>art de armond
>
>-----Original Message----- 
>From: Doug Mitchell
>Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:03 PM
>To: Fot
>Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
>
>Amici,
>
>Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Doug Mitchell
>dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
>
>Sent from my ASUS Pad
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5197 - Release Date: 08/13/12 


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Aug 14 14:52:10 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:52:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] clutch discs and John Clancy's DVD's
Message-ID: <502ABA7A.90405@bright.net>

FOT list.  Last week or or so there was some discussion of competition 
and high performance clutch discs. We have sold these for several 
years.  Here is a list of clutch discs, lining and styles.

Solid center (no take up springs) - 8 1/2" diameter - full circle 
organic lining - $135*
Solid center paddle style - 4 paddle (6 1/2") - $100; 6 paddle (8 1/2") 
- $135*
Spring center clutch with thicker metal web to hold friction material 
(metal holding friction material won't tear out) and HD take up springs 
- $150  (good high perf. street or autocross)
* available with 1 1/4" 10 spline center or 1" 23 spline for CR gear 
set. Add $40 for Kevlar lining.

We stock the entire range, including California Air, of John Clancy's 
DVD's. These are listed on our website.  John and his wife used our 
booth at The Mitty a central place to display (and sell) John's range of 
DVD's. Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 15 07:09:53 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:09:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] SCCA RUNOFFS SEPTEMBER 2012 SAM HALKIAS and ???
Message-ID: <8CF48FE65098631-159C-1EF76@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

I know that SAM HALKIAS   TR6    will be running on Saturday of the RUNOFFS.

Anyone else running?

Brendan Alexander approached me about going for at least Saturday.  How could
I say no?

Anyone else going?


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 15 07:33:19 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:33:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
Message-ID: <mailman.142.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?

Cheers, Tony Drews


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Aug 15 07:53:20 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:53:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
Message-ID: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/15/2012 8:36:54 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tony at tonydrews.com writes:


> Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?
> 

The Beady Eye Vintage Triumph Racing Team will be there (in all its glory). 
 I'll be in my TR3, Bob Wismer will race his TR4.

Bill Dentinger


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Aug 15 17:31:02 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 18:31:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
In-Reply-To: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>
References: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYr3rAmK4oQDhdDKp2C7BqDNeT-+Rz3-qaNEZxEPWSrfMg@mail.gmail.com>

IT KILLS ME TO NOT BE RACING AT MY FAVORITE TRACK... GRATTAN.
I'm done for the season.... out of money and out of TRANSMISSIONS. got the
family to think about and all.
I can't miss it though.
I'll be there to support my buddies.
I'm coming to offer Triumph support, drink beer, and do some fishing.
See you there.... and don't hesitate to ask me to help with anything guys!
Friendly Ghost Racing.....At Your Service!

Jason.

On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:53 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 08/15/2012 8:36:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
> tony at tonydrews.com writes:
>
>
> > Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?
> >
>
> The Beady Eye Vintage Triumph Racing Team will be there (in all its glory).
>  I'll be in my TR3, Bob Wismer will race his TR4.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From trdoctor at aol.com  Wed Aug 15 21:03:16 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 22:03:16 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Linkage Adjustment
Message-ID: <DBDC83EA-8634-40FD-9C7B-BB1816A2F1E2@aol.com>

Recently I have posted questions looking for solutions of obtaining full
throttle opening on my GT6 with a center pull cable accelerator arrangement
(MKIII).  So far, no joy.  So . . .   I have a new question.  I have obtained
full throttle opening with my '72 TR6 by adjusting the linkage from the cross
shaft to the carbs by shortening the linkage rod from the cross shaft to the
bell crank (does this make sense?).  I now have full opening but the pedal is
way high.  Has anyone figured out how to lower the pedal by adjusting the
linkage from the bell crank to the carbs, or, do I just have to live with it?
TIA
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 15 22:57:29 2012
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 21:57:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Jeremy Foley Crash - Pikes Peak International Hill Climb
 2012
References: <6AD58084-4A47-4265-8FEA-2EC5FEB730EF@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EA3FC26C-3791-430D-ACC4-1C8B1531C78B@yahoo.com>

>From the Pikes Peak Hill Climb last weekend.  Hang on!

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: At <tysno1gal at yahoo.com>
> Date: August 14, 2012 6:12:36 PM PDT
> To: Ty Thompson <tylerpthompson at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Jeremy Foley Crash - Pikes Peak International Hill Climb 2012
>
> Check out this video on YouTube:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEUrEPPABbY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>
>
> Sent from my iPad


From robertten1 at aol.com  Sat Aug 18 21:02:09 2012
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 23:02:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfire final chapter
Message-ID: <8CF4BCE285392BC-1684-A9665@webmail-d144.sysops.aol.com>

Amici,

I thank all who responded to request for help.  My problem has been solved
after a couple phone calls -  Thanks to Mr Cline and Mr. Lang.  To my
embarrassment I have to admit that this mechanic timed the cam incorrectly.
With a little education about cam lobes in relation to cylinders and the order
of suck,squish, bang and blow.  And a miss understanding of the note about the
cam timing on Mr Cline's cam, all has been corrected and the engine is firing
correctly.

Looking forward to September to get to drive my Spit in anger as my entry into
the autocross season comes late.  A couple hours on the chassis dyno has me
feeling comfortable to push my car in competition.

Cheers to all,
Bob T


From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 13:06:18 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 13:06:18 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph factory race cars?
Message-ID: <8AED25EC-29C4-4E1F-A66B-A104E349CF34@comcast.net>

List,

Did Triumph factory race cars have a VIN? Did they have a title?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 19 15:06:34 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 16:06:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <mailman.143.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is 
for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd 
be willing to part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower 
trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Aug 19 16:11:10 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 18:11:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>

I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
be willing to part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From emanteno at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 16:37:35 2012
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 17:37:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
	<8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>

250's use different vertical links than 4's.
On Aug 19, 2012 5:11 PM, "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
> Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> be willing to part with?
>
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/emanteno at gmail.com


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Aug 19 21:35:38 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 20:35:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The 4A, 250, and 6 should be the same, but they have different amount of
camber from the 2,3,4; a function of the angle between the threaded part of
the link and the eye for the balljoint. The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became sided, R/H and L/H,
and added 3 degrees camber.
-Ed-

--- On Sun, 8/19/12, Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
To: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 5:37 PM


250's use different vertical links than 4's.
On Aug 19, 2012 5:11 PM, "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
> Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> be willing to part with?
>
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/emanteno at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edwardbarnard at prodigy.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 19 22:06:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 21:06:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>

> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became 
> sided, R/H and L/H,
> and added 3 degrees camber.

I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All but
very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball joint,
etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.

-- Randall  


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 23:10:30 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 23:10:30 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <mailman.144.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I thought the later trunnion added castor.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 10:06 PM
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became 
> sided, R/H and L/H,
> and added 3 degrees camber.

I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All but
very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball joint,
etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 19 23:40:01 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 22:40:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <0E.9C.29711.9C8C1305@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
References: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<0E.9C.29711.9C8C1305@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <009801cd7e96$3ea57f40$0601a8c0@randall>

> I thought the later trunnion added castor.

Sorry, you're right, I meant castor.

-- Randall  


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 19 23:50:57 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 00:50:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820051840.CE9C02D02CD@autox.team.net>
References: <20120820051840.CE9C02D02CD@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D080A0EE-C7D0-4E7D-84A5-7FE3373BD6F7@sbcglobal.net>

Yes - 3 degrees of castor was added to the TR4 with right and left specific
trunnions and the asymmetrical upper control arms.
The vertical link and trunnion have no effect on camber.

On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:10 AM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> I thought the later trunnion added castor.
> jim g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 10:06 PM
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
>> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became
>> sided, R/H and L/H,
>> and added 3 degrees camber.
>
> I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All
but
> very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
> trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball
joint,
> etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 01:32:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:32:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>

Tony,

you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
replaced to do that.

I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
I can send photos if you like.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tony Drews
Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Mon Aug 20 02:29:28 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 01:29:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

My '71 GT6 race car continues to vex...

After having the engine blow, and then be rebuilt, it broke a rocker arm at
Willow Springs in practice. Bent the #1 valve a bit too.  Took the head off
and had a pretty reputable cylinder head rebuilder go through it. He found
that the engine builder had not installed the set screw that keeps the rocker
shaft in line with the oil feed hole in the upright. Hence, under-lubrication
to the forward end of the rocker shaft. He replaced one valve, all the
rockers, and the rocker shaft which was scored. Surfaced the head too.  We
installed the head last week, Torqued gradually in sequence @ 15 lb ft, then
25, then 45.  Adjusted the valves, and decided to do a compression rest just
for fun. (used a Payen head gasket)

What we found was interesting, but not good: #1 cylinder @ 170; #2 @ 120;
#4,4,5 @ 140; #6 @ 170 psi. this on a rebuilt engine with two hours run time
before failure...  The compression test was done without the intake on the
car, so it hasn't run yet. The cylinder head guru said to run it, and then
recheck. We'll also do a leakdown test then.

Any speculation? First thing that comes to mind is a not flat head or block,
of course. Then rings?

Ed


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 07:02:28 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:02:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
References: <5C8E4E0E-C90F-4836-AE1D-019C2C697359@me.com>
Message-ID: <AC14F08F-5EFE-4BA1-B5F2-80EFAEC09F54@me.com>

I had a similar experience with my GT6 a few years ago (though a different initial cause). Could be gasket or rings or a warped head, but for my car it was leaky valves that needed to be recut.  I had lapped them and my machinist had thought they looked fine too the first time when we resurfaced the head.   My first advice is to get a leakdown tester from Summit Racing or somewhere.  Pretty cheap and a great diagnostic device.  Especially with the manifolds off, you can readily identify the source of the leaks by the air whistling!  You'll probably have to run the test without your rocker assembly on, depending on how radical a cam you have.  The compression tester tells you that you have a problem - the leak down tester tells you where.

Payen gaskets are trouble free for me.  I'm guessing you are using stock head studs - with ARP if memory serves I'm torquing to 65 or 70 lbs.


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 08:22:40 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:22:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.145.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a
larger diameter section that screws into the Trunnion?

Tony

At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Tony,
>
>you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
>rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>replaced to do that.
>
>I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>I can send photos if you like.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>An: fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
>TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
>part with?
>
>I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
>at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Tony Drews


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 08:40:52 2012
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:40:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <28183E35-1CC7-4E89-8E0E-2EF1E24E141B@aol.com>

Not relevant to your question, but I wouldn't be to quick to conclude somebody
just didn't put that screw in - unless you've already searched the oil pan for
it - I have found that screw on a magnetic oil pan drain plug

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2012, at 4:29 AM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> He found
> that the engine builder had not installed the set screw that keeps the
rocker
> shaft in line with the oil feed hole in the upright.


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 08:48:26 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:48:26 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>

Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
that screws into the Trunnion?

Tony

At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Tony,
>
>you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>replaced to do that.
>
>I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>I can send photos if you like.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>An: fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>willing to part with?
>
>I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Tony Drews


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 08:57:09 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:57:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.146.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
>apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
> >willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 09:01:36 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:01:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>

Everything is the same.
You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come with
the installation set.
If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.

I send photos.

Cheers
Chris


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
> >to replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> >be willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:02:50 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>

I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you could 
modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, you'd be way ahead 
of the game.
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
>
> Tony
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
>>apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>>that screws into the Trunnion?
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>> >Tony,
>> >
>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>> >replaced to do that.
>> >
>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>> >I can send photos if you like.
>> >
>> >Cheers
>> >Chris
>> >
>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>> >
>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>> >willing to part with?
>> >
>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it 
>> >happens.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:06:10 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:06:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>
Message-ID: <240DD26FDB8F4C598FCB3194C49E08F9@Charly>

Depends on what you have now.  In box are later TR4 upper a-arms.




TR2-4 Front Suspension


Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Everything is the same.
> You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come 
> with
> the installation set.
> If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
> trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
> Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.
>
> I send photos.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
> there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
> stock
> lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
> loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
> make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
> directly to me.
>
> Tony
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>> >Tony,
>> >
>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
>> >to replaced to do that.
>> >
>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>> >I can send photos if you like.
>> >
>> >Cheers
>> >Chris
>> >
>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>> >
>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
>> >be willing to part with?
>> >
>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
> happens.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of TRI-022.gif]


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 09:08:40 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:08:40 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>

One thing:
The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
And the camber gain is increased.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
> >to replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> >be willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:15:43 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:15:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>
	<240DD26FDB8F4C598FCB3194C49E08F9@Charly>
Message-ID: <1191AECDACD5447388E3D1655254BD57@Charly>

One more thing, the Jaguar XJ6 ball joints are the same except they are 
narrower, which allows you to shim them for more or less castor.
Charly Mitchel
From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; "'Tony Drews'" 
<tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Depends on what you have now.  In box are later TR4 upper a-arms.
>
>
>
>
> TR2-4 Front Suspension
>
>
> Charly Mitchel
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>> Everything is the same.
>> You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come
>> with
>> the installation set.
>> If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
>> trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
>> Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.
>>
>> I send photos.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>> there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the
>> stock
>> lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the 
>> A-Arms
>> loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they 
>> won't
>> make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>> directly to me.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>>>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>Chris
>>>
>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>>>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> >Tony,
>>> >
>>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
>>> >to replaced to do that.
>>> >
>>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>>> >I can send photos if you like.
>>> >
>>> >Cheers
>>> >Chris
>>> >
>>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
>>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>> >
>>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
>>> >be willing to part with?
>>> >
>>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
>> happens.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks in advance.
>>> >
>>> >Tony Drews
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
> TRI-022.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 09:33:57 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:33:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.147.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
is different for Left Hand side of the car and
Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different parts).

Why is the vertical link different from side to
side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.

Thanks, Tony

At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>One thing:
>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>And the camber gain is increased.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>directly to me.
>
>Tony
<snip>


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:41:22 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:41:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>

My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The trunnion 
has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them the wheel 
would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R handed and can 
only be assembled as a set L&R.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
> parts).
>
> Why is the vertical link different from side to
> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>One thing:
>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
>>stock
>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>>directly to me.
>>
>>Tony
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 09:52:14 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:52:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
Message-ID: <mailman.148.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.

OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A 
arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My 
car is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't 
sound like any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next 
race to get this done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct 
bolt on for the earlier car with the welded in lower frame 
pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the reaming and 
spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional camber gain 
- not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a positive.

Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...  :)

Tony

At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse 
>them the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are 
>also L&R handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>Charly
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different parts).
>>
>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>
>>Thanks, Tony
>>
>>At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>One thing:
>>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>Chris
>>>
>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
>>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>>
>>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>>>directly to me.
>>>
>>>Tony
>><snip>
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 10:17:20 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:17:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
Message-ID: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>

It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down. 
My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and 
removed the spacers and remained the same height.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>
> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A arms, 
> does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is low 
> enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any fun 
> at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.  It 
> sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car with 
> the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the 
> reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional 
> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a 
> positive.
>
> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... 
> :)
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The trunnion 
>>has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them the wheel 
>>would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R handed and 
>>can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
>>>parts).
>>>
>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>
>>>Thanks, Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>>One thing:
>>>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>>>
>>>>Cheers
>>>>Chris
>>>>
>>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
>>>>stock
>>>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the 
>>>>A-Arms
>>>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>>>
>>>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they 
>>>>won't
>>>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is 
>>>>addressed
>>>>directly to me.
>>>>
>>>>Tony
>>><snip>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>Unsubscribe: 
>>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 10:38:49 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:38:49 +0200
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
Message-ID: <000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>

This is the last weekends race.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxJq6Lf2exk

Tactics was to save the car and doing a sprint at the last 20 min....which
resulted with a lead in our group.
1st overall - group Triumph Competition
1st in class

Cheers
Chris


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Mon Aug 20 11:01:03 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:01:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820142143.D97402D0325@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20120820170104.QYJAY.63258.root@cdptpa-web26-z02>

I have a complete TR250/TR6 front suspension on the TR3. Keep in mind the TR4A - TR6 upper fulcrum pivot pins are a different diameter from the TR3 - TR4. TR4A - TR6 is 5/8 (same as the lower fulcrum pivot pins) and the TR3 and TR4 are 1/2. 

If you want pictures now is a good time. No fender or wheel to obstruct the view.

Bob


---- Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote: 
> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a
> larger diameter section that screws into the Trunnion?
> 
> Tony
> 
> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
> >rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
> >TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
> >part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
> >at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 13:38:49 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:38:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <137a4.129bdcb2.3d63ec49@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/19/2012 4:08:21 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tony at tonydrews.com writes:


> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is 
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd 
> be willing to part with?
> 
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower 
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> 
> 

Amici...

He does not exaggerate.  I know.  I was there (and as you might 
imagine...behind him.  Only the laundry knows how excited he got.

Truth be told, we can all be glad it happened at the beginning of Grattan's 
front straight...and not the end of it.  Grattan is an old drag strip...and 
Tony don't go slow.

Bill (Damdinger)


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 14:03:12 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
	<42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
Message-ID: <9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>

Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA rules?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 11:02 AM, "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
wrote:

> I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you could
modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, you'd be way ahead of
the game.
> Charly Mitchel
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
>> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
>> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
>> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
>> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
>> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
>> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
>> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
suspension
>>> apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>>> that screws into the Trunnion?
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> >Tony,
>>> >
>>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>>> >replaced to do that.
>>> >
>>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>>> >I can send photos if you like.
>>> >
>>> >Cheers
>>> >Chris
>>> >
>>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
>>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>> >
>>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>>> >willing to part with?
>>> >
>>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
>happens.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks in advance.
>>> >
>>> >Tony Drews
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 14:13:48 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:13:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA 
> rules?
> 
> 

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an 
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.  
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's 
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint 
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a 
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge 
from the red and black to the blue and white.  

Bill Dentinger


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Aug 20 14:27:56 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:27:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
References: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.149.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 1906?"
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:13:48 
To: <jhhasty at gdhs.com>; <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA 
> rules?
> 
> 

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an 
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.  
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's 
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint 
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a 
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge 
from the red and black to the blue and white.  

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Aug 20 14:36:14 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:36:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
References: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EFC07B4C2B714089AD48EF7085113A3B@rileyPC>

regarding GCR and the relocation of suspension pick up points;   some 40 
years ago, after spending
some time with Bill Boemler and his wicked fast TR3 and observing a number 
of items that may
have not been "full compliance" with the GCR, I asked Bill how he ever got 
the thing thru tech inspection.

his reply:  Most of the inspectors are not real TR3 savvy and besides, the 
GCR coes not apply to
cars over 10 years old.

So, don't worry,  be happy!

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 3:13 PM
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com ; charly at mitchelplumbing.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA
> rules?
>
>

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge
from the red and black to the blue and white.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net





-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5211 - Release Date: 08/20/12 


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 14:51:06 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:51:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:28:01 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jason at multivintage.com writes:


> Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 
> 1906?"
> 
Jason...

When I started road racing over here in 1906 there were no rules.  I was 
the only racer.  Then this other guy started racing, and right away they 
needed rules.  Soon there were five or six guys racing and soon that dam rule 
book was nearly an inch thick.  

Incidentally, I can't remember for sure who it was, but at the Friday night 
Beady Eye wine and cheese party at Grattan someone was making some pretty 
solid points about what is hurting race series these days like Indy Car and 
so on.  He maintained one of the big reasons is they have made it impossible 
for any ingenuity.  In the old days people would develop whole new cars to 
compete, and the stands would be full of people watching the practice and 
time trials, not to mention come race day.  They all wanted to see the new 
stuff, the new cars, and how good they were or weren't.  The guy was making some 
really great points.  I wish I would not have had so much Pinot Grigio.  
I'd remember better and could share it with you.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Wait a minute.  Jason...you were there!  Oh, that's right.  You were 
drinking too.  Good cheese though.  Picante Provolone, Sharp White Cheddar, a 
soft brie, and back by popular demand...Mindoro Bleu.


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 15:14:18 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:14:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>
References: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <261996F0-1736-4BAC-B150-0D935D013357@gdhs.com>

You know Bill, this is why back in the 70's & 80's when I was in pro
motorcycle road racing I chose 250cc GP class  the only rules, other than
safety items, were displacement, weight, aspiration & fuel. Anything else was
up to you.


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 4:51 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:28:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
jason at multivintage.com writes:
>
>
>> Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 1906?"
>
> Jason...
>
> When I started road racing over here in 1906 there were no rules.  I was the
only racer.  Then this other guy started racing, and right away they needed
rules.  Soon there were five or six guys racing and soon that dam rule book
was nearly an inch thick.
>
> Incidentally, I can't remember for sure who it was, but at the Friday night
Beady Eye wine and cheese party at Grattan someone was making some pretty
solid points about what is hurting race series these days like Indy Car and so
on.  He maintained one of the big reasons is they have made it impossible for
any ingenuity.  In the old days people would develop whole new cars to
compete, and the stands would be full of people watching the practice and time
trials, not to mention come race day.  They all wanted to see the new stuff,
the new cars, and how good they were or weren't.  The guy was making some
really great points.  I wish I would not have had so much Pinot Grigio.  I'd
remember better and could share it with you.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Wait a minute.  Jason...you were there!  Oh, that's right.  You were
drinking too.  Good cheese though.  Picante Provolone, Sharp White Cheddar, a
soft brie, and back by popular demand...Mindoro Bleu.


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 16:20:39 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
Message-ID: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>

Anybody know what it went for?  RM has not published results as yet.


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 16:51:39 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:51:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
	<42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
	<9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.150.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I could give a flying flip of the GCR issue if switching to the TR-4A 
/ TR-6 upright keeps me from a repeat of that ride.  The next time it 
may not end as well.  It's not like I'm vying for any prize money or 
fame and glory.  Looking at the broken off vertical link I'm amazed 
that something of that diameter can take the abuse I've given it.

We've made exceptions to the GCR for safety upgrades like the 
Southwick rear axle and Alloy front hubs.  I consider this to be 
right along those lines and if it works out like I think it may, I'd 
do a nice writeup on my website and encourage others to perform the 
same upgrade.

Frame attachment points will still be stock.

If I can confirm whether using the later A-arms will get me back to 
the same ride height (at least close to it), there should be very 
little difference in front suspension geometry.

I do appreciate the question even if I don't sound like it above.  :)

Thanks, Tony

At 03:03 PM 8/20/2012, John Hasty wrote:
>Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA rules?
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Aug 20, 2012, at 11:02 AM, "Charly Mitchel" 
><charly at mitchelplumbing.com> wrote:
>
> > I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you 
> could modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, 
> you'd be way ahead of the game.
> > Charly Mitchel
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> > To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >
> >> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
> >> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
> >> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
> >> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
> >> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
> >> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
> >>
> >> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
> >> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
> >> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
> >>
> >> Tony
> >>
> >> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >>> Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front 
> suspension
> >>> apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
> >>>
> >>> Cheers
> >>> Chris
> >>>
> >>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
> >>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
> >>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
> >>> Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >>>
> >>> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
> >>> that screws into the Trunnion?
> >>>
> >>> Tony
> >>>
> >>> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >>> >Tony,
> >>> >
> >>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >>> >replaced to do that.
> >>> >
> >>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >>> >I can send photos if you like.
> >>> >
> >>> >Cheers
> >>> >Chris
> >>> >
> >>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >>> >
> >>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
> >>> >willing to part with?
> >>> >
> >>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when 
> it >happens.
> >>> >
> >>> >Thanks in advance.
> >>> >
> >>> >Tony Drews
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 17:06:56 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:06:56 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
Message-ID: <mailman.151.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end 
of the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the 
trunnion - at least partially.

Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved 
up on the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone 
confirm / deny this?

It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - 
both upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.

Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may help:
On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line 
of spindle
 From center line of spindle to spring pan

That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup 
would lower the car.

Tony

At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets 
>down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower 
>a-arms and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>Charly
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>
>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower 
>>A arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later 
>>trunnions?  My car is low enough already, and messing with spring 
>>spacers doesn't sound like any fun at all.  I've got two weekends 
>>before the next race to get this done.  It sounds like the later 
>>A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car with the welded in 
>>lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the reaming 
>>and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional 
>>camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a positive.
>>
>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... :)
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to 
>>>reverse them the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on 
>>>them are also L&R handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>Charly
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are 
>>>>different parts).
>>>>
>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks, Tony
<snip>


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Mon Aug 20 17:25:19 2012
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:25:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup
Message-ID: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>

Gurus, I need some help with my Webers.  I have a matched pair of 151s 
with the following configuration: 55F8 idle jets, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns 
on the idle mixture screws, idles nicely at 1K RPM with ~ 1/2 turn on 
the idle speed screw.  Accelerator pump jets are 40s, the pump exhaust 
valve hole soldered shut (the ball valve still works).  Main jets ranged 
from 150 to 120, with various combinations of air bleeds from 150 to 
190.  The plastic float levels have been set to 14.5 and 22mm, to reduce 
fuel in the well.  The problem is that above ~2K RPM the AFR drops to 
high 10, low 11, so of course the engine runs like crap.  One more bit 
of info: fully closed the throttle plates are mid-way in the first 
progression hole.  One Weber parts distributor said that was correct for 
151s, another said that the carbs must be binding because the 
progression holes should be clear at fully closed throttle.  Hmmm.  The 
throttles have no binding that I can feel (linkage disconnected).

I took a set of main jets and filled the fuel hole with JB Weld, 
thinking I'd start really small and work up.  As a baseline test I made 
a run with the hole still closed and the AFR was still ~11.5.  Ah ha!  
That tells me that it's not the main circuit which is the problem but 
rather the accelerator pump circuit.  I noticed that at 2100-2200 RPM a 
ball of fuel forms on the jet, then drops into the venturi; that seems 
wrong to me, but I've not found any info in a myriad of Weber books on 
what might be wrong in the accelerator circuit .

Falling back on my Army career, I'm tempted to implement my mantra that 
"there's no problem that judicially placed high explosive can't solve".  
Before I start shopping for C4, anyone have any ideas?  Any and all 
advice gratefully accepted.

Tnx!

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 17:46:45 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:46:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
Message-ID: <48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>

Chris.    Great as always.  For all of us on the east coast of USA,  SVRA has
apparently  been sold to someone inTexas.  Anyone have anymore info??

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:38 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> This is the last weekends race.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxJq6Lf2exk
>
> Tactics was to save the car and doing a sprint at the last 20 min....which
> resulted with a lead in our group.
> 1st overall - group Triumph Competition
> 1st in class
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 20 18:05:34 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:05:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
	<48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <36E6C490-1F55-40BE-B853-ADAB70B5B5E1@gmail.com>

I read that it was sold to Tony Parella, who has been racing his gorgeous
black 1958 Corvette in CVAR (Group 4, the Corinthian preservation class for
pre-1962 cars) for a couple of years and now is also racing a newer car in
Group 1 with the other later Corvettes and Pony cars.  He's apparently a
Corvette guy through and through (I'm told he has "a few"). You can look up
his company, The Parella Group, on the Internet.  He's a nice guy, trying to
do racing right, who has overcome some adversity in life.  His profile, on his
company website:

http://parellagroup.com/about-tony-parella.php

I also run in Group 4, and fortunately for me, in the rain, he's toast.
Unfortunately, it rarely rains here.

Duncan Charlton
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red

On Aug 20, 2012, at 6:46 PM, John Hasty wrote:

> For all of us on the east coast of USA,  SVRA has apparently  been sold to
someone inTexas.  Anyone have anymore info??


From walt at hot-tr6.com  Mon Aug 20 18:31:44 2012
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:31:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup
In-Reply-To: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>
References: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <001501cd7f34$57fce1b0$07f6a510$@hot-tr6.com>

My TR6 racecar with triple Weber 40 DCOEs runs well with the following
setup. I am running at 12:1 compression, lots of porting and bigger valves.
A very strong camshaft but not full race. 
Also, I am at 5,500 feet above sea level.

Main Jets		130
Air			200
Emulsion Tube		F7
Idle jets		55F9
Acel pump Jet		40
Bleed off set to		Zero
Idle mix screws set to two turns

Walt Hollowell
Albuquerque, New Mexico

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of J.C. Hassall
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 5:25 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup

Gurus, I need some help with my Webers.  I have a matched pair of 151s with
the following configuration: 55F8 idle jets, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns on the
idle mixture screws, idles nicely at 1K RPM with ~ 1/2 turn on the idle
speed screw.  Accelerator pump jets are 40s, the pump exhaust valve hole
soldered shut (the ball valve still works).  Main jets ranged from 150 to
120, with various combinations of air bleeds from 150 to 190.  The plastic
float levels have been set to 14.5 and 22mm, to reduce fuel in the well.
The problem is that above ~2K RPM the AFR drops to high 10, low 11, so of
course the engine runs like crap.  One more bit of info: fully closed the
throttle plates are mid-way in the first progression hole.  One Weber parts
distributor said that was correct for 151s, another said that the carbs must
be binding because the progression holes should be clear at fully closed
throttle.  Hmmm.  The throttles have no binding that I can feel (linkage
disconnected).

I took a set of main jets and filled the fuel hole with JB Weld, thinking
I'd start really small and work up.  As a baseline test I made a run with
the hole still closed and the AFR was still ~11.5.  Ah ha!  
That tells me that it's not the main circuit which is the problem but rather
the accelerator pump circuit.  I noticed that at 2100-2200 RPM a ball of
fuel forms on the jet, then drops into the venturi; that seems wrong to me,
but I've not found any info in a myriad of Weber books on what might be
wrong in the accelerator circuit .

Falling back on my Army career, I'm tempted to implement my mantra that
"there's no problem that judicially placed high explosive can't solve".  
Before I start shopping for C4, anyone have any ideas?  Any and all advice
gratefully accepted.

Tnx!

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot-tr6.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5211 - Release Date: 08/20/12


From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 19:02:58 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:02:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
Message-ID: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>

I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes.  The parking brake
was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks.  Upon
reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself.  So. . . under the
car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive.  When I reached
end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was firm.  I
drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor.  It would pump
up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again.  I got the car home and
looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were obvious.
Nothing.  Master was full.  My experience tells me this is an internal master
cylinder leak.  The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other advice before
I jump on the internet and order a new one?
TIA


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 20 20:01:34 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 22:01:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>

I see on the Classic Motorsports web site forum it went for $55k. What a
shame. Somebody ended up with a fantastic car though. Hopefully it was a
FOT'r

Marty
----------------------------------------
> From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
>
> Anybody know what it went for? RM has not published results as yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/trmarty at hotmail.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 20:15:02 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:15:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
	<08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <53F87E0B-925D-4319-B848-B73DAB93577F@aol.com>

Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in?  I know there is a
core charge.  Just thinking about the exchange time.  Also, send it where?
Apple, White Post. . . ?

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 20:16:31 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 22:16:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
	<BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EB6061C0-2944-4C49-8592-E20F5A4B1EDC@me.com>

wow - I'm not going to call it a great deal if all you want to do is go vintage racing, but for a car with that history, and given what went into the restoration, it seems like a real bargain.

On Aug 20, 2012, at 10:01 PM, marty sukey wrote:


I see on the Classic Motorsports web site forum it went for $55k. What a shame. Somebody ended up with a fantastic car though. Hopefully it was a FOT'r

Marty
----------------------------------------
> From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
> 
> Anybody know what it went for? RM has not published results as yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/trmarty at hotmail.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 20:16:52 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:16:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
	<08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0285C5A4-664F-4BFC-A1E0-42C6500A1F44@aol.com>

BTW, I am using DOT5 and have been for years.

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug 21 04:57:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 12:57:02 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301cd7f8b$b35d72c0$1a185840$@com>

There is a diaphragm spring behind the little piston in the master.
I most cases this spring gets tired and is not able to hold pressure.
You can overcome it with slamming on the brakes then it should hold
pressure.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Sam
Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2012 03:03
An: 6-pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Brakes

I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes.  The parking brake
was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks.  Upon
reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself.  So. . . under
the car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive.  When I
reached end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was
firm.  I drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor.  It
would pump up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again.  I got the
car home and looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were
obvious.
Nothing.  Master was full.  My experience tells me this is an internal
master cylinder leak.  The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other
advice before I jump on the internet and order a new one?
TIA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 21 05:26:58 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (trmarty at hotmail.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:26:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>

Anybody know off the top of your head what the thread size is in the front of a, TR4 crank?

Marty 

Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Tue Aug 21 06:20:56 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 08:20:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820230600.3DB952D03B2@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230600.3DB952D03B2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9N9nhhKY7+JiipQB2OT01UFx0GfM8qr_j2AV_XJ3O3+iw@mail.gmail.com>

the whole concept seems to me to be a good  idea as for me I like to keep
the car on the track and not in the grass if you are lucky to have some,
all our cars have changed alot to keep going strong an it is up to us to
keep them changing to stay ahead of the crowd ...and to pass goo ideas

On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 7:06 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>
>> It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets
>> down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms
>> and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>> Charly
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
>> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>> THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>> arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is
>>> low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any
>>> fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.
>>>  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car
>>> with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for
>>> the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional
>>> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a
>>> positive.
>>>
>>> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>> :)
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>
>>>> My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>> trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>> the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>> handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>> Charly
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>> parts).
>>>>>
>>>>> Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, Tony
>>>>>
>>>> <snip>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com>
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Aug 21 08:17:27 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:17:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
Message-ID: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>

BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness. 
I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always bent. 
If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult to 
check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the upper 
and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate it and 
go through the suspension range to check it.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of 
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at 
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on 
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny 
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both 
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may 
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of 
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would 
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down. 
>>My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and 
>>removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
>><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A 
>>>arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car 
>>>is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like 
>>>any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this 
>>>done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the 
>>>earlier car with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate 
>>>the need for the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate 
>>>the additional camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else 
>>>would be a positive.
>>>
>>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... 
>>>:)
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them 
>>>>the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R 
>>>>handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>Charly
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
>>>>>parts).
>>>>>
>>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks, Tony
> <snip>


From igofaster at att.net  Tue Aug 21 08:22:01 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:22:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
Message-ID: <1345558921.42432.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Tim said it sold Saturday night, I haven't seen the sale price yet... I'm 
guessing a number in my head... I'm sure it's a record for a GT6 so.... if 
anyone gets the news I would love to know...
My friend George Curl (past prez of CVAR) said the price went up after I sat in 
the car again at the Mitty this year... must have been my golden bum.... 
ahh..... nevermind...
Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, August 20, 2012 5:23:12 PM
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey

Anybody know what it went for?  RM has not published results as yet.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 21 08:31:57 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:31:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION
Message-ID: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

What a list!  The knowledge base here is one that helps improve the breed.

Parts are on their way to Tony and I am sure he will share the experience of
his conversion.

FOT GCRs??  We have none. That's between you and your tech inspector.

We have no rules....other than being nice to each other.

Joe A


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Tue Aug 21 08:42:42 2012
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (MARKANDGLENDA PENDERGRASS)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:42:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
Message-ID: <CACx-LfMkoF57hn2BeFGZeBaOAzdwer4wf5bZA_L18jd2Y4uKoA@mail.gmail.com>

Some vertical links were purposely bent on early cars to get neg. camber,
mine being one of those. The lower wishbones were also bent to some degree
and i to have TR6 componants, do i agree with this practice?........not
really.....and i do keep a real close eye on those componants.
Mark '63 TR4

On Tue, Aug 21, 2012 at 7:17 AM, Charly Mitchel
<charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:

> BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness.
> I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always
> bent. If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult
> to check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the
> upper and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate
> it and go through the suspension range to check it.
>
> Charly
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>  Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
>> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
>> least partially.
>>
>> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up
>> on the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
>> this?
>>
>> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
>> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>>
>> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
>> help:
>> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
>> spindle
>> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>>
>> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup
>> would lower the car.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>
>>> It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets
>>> down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms
>>> and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>> Charly
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
>>> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>
>>>  THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>>> arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is
>>>> low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any
>>>> fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.
>>>>  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car
>>>> with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for
>>>> the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional
>>>> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a
>>>> positive.
>>>>
>>>> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>>> :)
>>>>
>>>> Tony
>>>>
>>>> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>>> trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>>> the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>>> handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>> Charly
>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>  I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>>> parts).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks, Tony
>>>>>>
>>>>> <snip>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.*
> *net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net>


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Aug 21 08:42:47 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:42:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION
In-Reply-To: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5176CF0F8DF74D088D24575C83DE548C@gdhs.local>

Well Now, guys/gals here's the answer. 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 10:32 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION

What a list!  The knowledge base here is one that helps improve the breed.

Parts are on their way to Tony and I am sure he will share the experience of
his conversion.

FOT GCRs??  We have none. That's between you and your tech inspector.

We have no rules....other than being nice to each other.

Joe A
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Aug 21 08:48:00 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:48:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
Message-ID: <8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>

 What Charly said, big problem area there.
The links should also be crack-checked periodically.
Also make sure that the trunnion isn't stressed fore/aft when the ball joint
is fitted.
Adjust ride height by spacing spring up or shim spring pan down to suit.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>; Tony Drews
<tony at tonydrews.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 21, 2012 10:24 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness.
I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always bent.
If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult to
check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the upper
and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate it and
go through the suspension range to check it.
Charly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx"
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down.
>>My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and
>>removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx"
>><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>>arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car
>>>is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like
>>>any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this
>>>done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the
>>>earlier car with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate
>>>the need for the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate
>>>the additional camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else
>>>would be a positive.
>>>
>>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>>:)
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>>the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>>handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>Charly
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>>parts).
>>>>>
>>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks, Tony
> <snip>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Aug 21 09:16:49 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:16:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
	<8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>

Hi -

Call me stupid, but I have to ask this follow-up question... I believe the 
initial question was "are the new vertical links worth buying?". There 
were a tonne of responses to the effect of "when you swap in a used 
vertical link, check for... yadda yadda yadda.

I get that.

But I don't think the original question was ever actually answered.

Does that mean unequivocably that the new ones should be avoided?

I'll toss in anecdotal comments overheard from a certain materials science 
member of the list - that the new castings may be flawed (due to metalurgy 
and to casting methods), but that's the extent of anything that I know on 
this topic. Can anyone chime on on this with something other than 
"offshore stuff all sucks".

As a point of information, in the northeast where this is salt on the 
roads, all the cores that I've obtained over the years have rust along the 
area of the threaded portion of the link where it threads into the 
trunnion. As a semi-interested party in metal fatigue and so forth, I 
can't get myself to use any of these because I have no idea how bad the 
rust has penetrated - but I also know that the presence of corrosion can't 
be a good thing.

So, should "we" avoid the _new_ vertical links altogether?

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Aug 21 09:45:01 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:45:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
	<8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <8CF4DCB0EE16CC3-19FC-43DB@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>

 It all depends on what inventory a particular supplier has at any time.
I don't think that any of the larger suppliers knowingly sell crap but I have
bought exactly that at times from all of them.
You/I as the end-user have to make the ultimate call, inspect everything and
if something doesn't seem right it's because it isn't...
I wouldn't use a vertical link with corrosion on that inside corner, that's
obviously where all of the stress is, I have seen several break there.
Glen
ps- check the fulcrum pin/hole to trunnion, have seen several repros not
square/off center!!!





-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 21, 2012 11:21 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


Hi -

Call me stupid, but I have to ask this follow-up question... I believe the
initial question was "are the new vertical links worth buying?". There
were a tonne of responses to the effect of "when you swap in a used
vertical link, check for... yadda yadda yadda.


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 21 10:14:39 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 12:14:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6/TR250   BRAKE CALIPER BRACKETS AVAILABLE
Message-ID: <8CF4DCF32F863AF-179C-97E4C@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

Now that the suspensions are dismantled, for Tony's project, I have a pair if
brake brackets available if anyone has been thinking about a brake conversion
on their TR3.

CONTACT ME off list......


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Aug 21 10:26:51 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:26:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <mailman.152.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I measure 0.630", fine thread.  Must be 5/8".

Tony

At 06:26 AM 8/21/2012, trmarty at hotmail.com wrote:
>Anybody know off the top of your head what the thread size is in the 
>front of a, TR4 crank?
>
>Marty
>
>Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 22 11:22:32 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:22:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?
Message-ID: <mailman.153.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I've got the TR-250 front suspension pieces now (thanks Joe!) and it 
looks like they will lower my car about an inch.  Sooo, how much 
spacer do I need to add to the spring to offset that?  I'm guessing 
it's about a 2 to 1 deal, so 1/2" spacer would be an inch of ride height.

Anyone have something better than a guess for this?

By the way, the TR-250 (and 4A and 6) upright / vertical link is 
significantly beefier than the TR-4 piece as has been mentioned on 
the list.  The upper portion seems to be larger cross section as well 
as the lower screw portion being larger in diameter.

Thanks in advance,
Tony Drews


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 22 12:25:51 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 14:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?
In-Reply-To: <20120822172613.C150E2D0299@autox.team.net>
References: <20120822172613.C150E2D0299@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF4EAAB15F923F-13EC-80330@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

that's what i have used in the past  1/2  =  1

i did not realize the TR6 parts were significantly more stout.

thanks Chris.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 22, 2012 12:28 pm
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?


I've got the TR-250 front suspension pieces now (thanks Joe!) and it
looks like they will lower my car about an inch.  Sooo, how much
spacer do I need to add to the spring to offset that?  I'm guessing
it's about a 2 to 1 deal, so 1/2" spacer would be an inch of ride height.

Anyone have something better than a guess for this?

By the way, the TR-250 (and 4A and 6) upright / vertical link is
significantly beefier than the TR-4 piece as has been mentioned on
the list.  The upper portion seems to be larger cross section as well
as the lower screw portion being larger in diameter.

Thanks in advance,
Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From spitracer1296 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 22 13:03:36 2012
From: spitracer1296 at yahoo.com (chris crisenbery)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:03:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
Message-ID: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Checked RM Results Sold for $55,000
 
I didn't see if that included any buyers
premiums or not.


From spitracer1296 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 22 13:07:46 2012
From: spitracer1296 at yahoo.com (chris crisenbery)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:07:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
In-Reply-To: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1345662466.72168.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Auction estimate was $75K to $125K



________________________________
From: chris crisenbery <spitracer1296 at yahoo.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 3:03 PM
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD

Checked RM Results Sold for $55,000

I didn't see if that included any buyers
premiums or not.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitracer1296 at yahoo.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Aug 22 14:42:49 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 20:42:49 +0000
Subject: [Fot] GT-6  Historic REAL car.
Message-ID: <SNT120-W626C1C1B423BA391C12AA1DFBF0@phx.gbl>

What a pity that a perfect restoration and truly nice piece with terrrific
history goes for that small price compared to nice street cas with no history
are nearly the same.

Never be beaten by equipment


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 22 16:38:54 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:38:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] inquiry on transportation  midwest to la area
Message-ID: <8CF4ECE0B0279EB-13EC-82946@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

if someone has something going from east to west in the next couple months,
let me know and we can discuss.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From gasket.works at gte.net  Wed Aug 22 19:17:24 2012
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 01:17:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
Message-ID: <1994533368-1345684645-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1668046759-@b28.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Don't be surprised @ this price.  These cars are directed to a smaller niche market.  Even with provenance it has limited real value except to some of us.  You could build a similar car for 25K to 30K so the history/provenance value doubled its value. Sadly, It may never bring this price again.  Me thinks RM estimated their price point intentionally high. I would have done the same.    

My two cents.

mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 23 15:21:54 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 14:21:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust valves.
All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the left
side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the intake/exhaust
(right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water on
the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.

So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many times?
Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than the
rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a bit
off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
pushrods?

This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
pal.

Ed Dunn


From sjanzen at me.com  Thu Aug 23 16:47:21 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 18:47:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>

Hi, Ed
Sounds to me like you have a warped head, non-level block and/or studs that are stretched to the point where they've lost their elasticity (my engineering materials courses are 35 years in the rearview mirror, sorry if the terminology is wrong).  Too long is not an issue unless you are running out of thread to tighten the nuts.
Anyway, I'd suggest getting some new studs from ARP or another good supplier, and getting the both the head and block checked by a good machinist to make sure they're both flat, and getting the valves and valve seats re-cut.
Leakage along the outside of the pushrod galleys is not unusual - I usually assemble with a bit of black permatex over there, but not between the combustion chamber and the pushrod galleys.
Length of pushrods, etc - sometimes you can have these shortened, depending on the design.  Basically, you need to install and see if, when the camshaft travels through the lift cycle, the rocker travel across the tip of the valve is pretty close to centered.  If it's off, you'll get too much side load on the valve and wear issues.  There are lots of aftermarket pushrod mfrs who can supply new ones to the right length, or your machinist may be able to shorten the ones you have.

On Aug 23, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:

Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust valves.
All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the left
side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the intake/exhaust
(right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water on
the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.

So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many times?
Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than the
rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a bit
off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
pushrods?

This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
pal.

Ed Dunn
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 23 17:03:30 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 16:03:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Thanks,  we'll check it out more tonight. Will likely order a set of ARP head
studs.  Guess I'll take the head back to the cylinder head shop to have them
check the exhaust valves.  The engine was rebuilt last winter, and had a very
good race weekend before it failed. Did not retorque after the initial race
weekend. When doing a leak down test, how much time do you use per cylinder?

Ed


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 23 17:14:44 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:14:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1549BA8EF2575AE3A543EF7B2BE0@phx.gbl>

On this engine the leaking head gasket from the fuel pump side of the block is
a classic symptom I starting your torque sequence in the wrong side ( I've
made that mistake.

Have the valves and seats been recently done?

I've rebuilt 4 of those exact engines and never had to replace the stick bolts
but that is not to say yours are ok

You can check the head for flat/true by cleaning everything good then without
bolts or head gasket set the head into the engine block an use a .002 gauge to
check for gaps between block and head everywhere.  If you have a proper metal
straight edge you can lay it across block and head to further check if you are
of a mind to "do it  yourself" and this is a stock rebuild.

The machine shop is of course the best answer if it hasn't already been there
just prior to your recent assembly.

Best if luck

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-23, at 6:47 PM, "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> Hi, Ed
> Sounds to me like you have a warped head, non-level block and/or studs that
are stretched to the point where they've lost their elasticity (my engineering
materials courses are 35 years in the rearview mirror, sorry if the
terminology is wrong).  Too long is not an issue unless you are running out of
thread to tighten the nuts.
> Anyway, I'd suggest getting some new studs from ARP or another good
supplier, and getting the both the head and block checked by a good machinist
to make sure they're both flat, and getting the valves and valve seats
re-cut.
> Leakage along the outside of the pushrod galleys is not unusual - I usually
assemble with a bit of black permatex over there, but not between the
combustion chamber and the pushrod galleys.
> Length of pushrods, etc - sometimes you can have these shortened, depending
on the design.  Basically, you need to install and see if, when the camshaft
travels through the lift cycle, the rocker travel across the tip of the valve
is pretty close to centered.  If it's off, you'll get too much side load on
the valve and wear issues.  There are lots of aftermarket pushrod mfrs who can
supply new ones to the right length, or your machinist may be able to shorten
the ones you have.
>
> On Aug 23, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:
>
> Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
> Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust
valves.
> All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the
left
> side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the
intake/exhaust
> (right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water
on
> the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.
>
> So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
> studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many
times?
> Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than
the
> rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a
bit
> off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
> spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
> pushrods?
>
> This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
> pal.
>
> Ed Dunn
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 23 17:17:00 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS109A548E3D17C1A8B3D3467B2BE0@phx.gbl>

Race engine, ya sounds like machine shop time to be safe :)

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-23, at 7:03 PM, "Edward Dunn" <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Thanks,  we'll check it out more tonight. Will likely order a set of ARP
head
> studs.  Guess I'll take the head back to the cylinder head shop to have
them
> check the exhaust valves.  The engine was rebuilt last winter, and had a
very
> good race weekend before it failed. Did not retorque after the initial race
> weekend. When doing a leak down test, how much time do you use per
cylinder?
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Fri Aug 24 10:54:52 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 12:54:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Roebling Rd in 3 weeks
Message-ID: <CALsVEtCY3kDunZ+E=o_CpARBKqRK3iG_2+WNTPaHw7FB5fj4fg@mail.gmail.com>

Who's going to the VDCA event at Roebling Road in Savannah next month?
 It's the weekend of September 15th.

This one is only a 2 day event but since its usually smaller than most we
get tons of track time for practically nothing ($250).  Don


From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Aug 26 12:51:27 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:51:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
Message-ID: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>

Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?

Never be beaten by equipment


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 26 12:59:04 2012
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:59:04 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
Message-ID: <12740944.1346007544376.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I'm going.  Just tuned up the TR3 10 minutes ago.

~Steve Belfer


-----Original Message-----
>From: Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
>Sent: Aug 26, 2012 11:51 AM
>To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Fot] Going racing
>
>Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
>
>Never be beaten by equipment
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Sun Aug 26 13:32:50 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 12:32:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

We'll be there.  At least with my wife's Formula Vee... Don't know if the
cranky GT6 will be fixed though.  Hopefully. Maybe.

Ed Dunn






-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Kas Kastner
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:51 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Going racing

Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?

Never be beaten by equipment
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Aug 26 14:13:50 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 16:13:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
Message-ID: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>

Who's going to be there?
I will be there crewing for a MGA #275 and a Formula  Vee #25.

I will have badges and flags.  From now on half of the price goes to our FOT
website.

See you there.

Chris


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Aug 26 16:01:20 2012
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:01:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
In-Reply-To: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
References: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>

I'll be there, working in the pit lane or roaming.
Frank's MGTD is waiting on a frame/body transplant after multi-roll at NJMSP
in July.


Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
"Reality, it's not what you think." 


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 26 16:06:10 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:06:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS101BA20A6DB2061F2E42FA5B2A30@phx.gbl>

I hope you get it sorted out  Ed.  Did you narrow it down further?

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-26, at 3:44 PM, "Edward Dunn" <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> We'll be there.  At least with my wife's Formula Vee... Don't know if the
> cranky GT6 will be fixed though.  Hopefully. Maybe.
>
> Ed Dunn
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Kas Kastner
> Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:51 AM
> To: fot
> Subject: [Fot] Going racing
>
> Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 26 20:27:11 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 21:27:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
Message-ID: <mailman.154.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.

I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...

Thanks, Tony Drews


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 26 20:33:17 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 21:33:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827022514.816032D01AC@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827022514.816032D01AC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.155.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

By the way, it's frozen in the trunnion itself.  It turns within the wishbones.

Tony

At 09:27 PM 8/26/2012, Tony Drews wrote:
>Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
>(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.
>
>I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Aug 26 20:38:28 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 19:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827023039.390142D01FC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1346035108.52106.YahooMailClassic@web181403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tony: That is very common. The bolt rusts to the tubes inside the top-hat. The
bolt turns, but you can't pull it out because the OD of the tube is bigger
than the hole in the trunnion. If you can't PB Blaster it and then press out
in a press you'll need to cut the bolt head and nut off.
If you damage the trunnion let me know which side it is R/H or L/H and I'll
send you a good one.
-Ed-

--- On Sun, 8/26/12, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:


From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 26, 2012, 9:33 PM


By the way, it's frozen in the trunnion itself.  It turns within the
wishbones.

Tony

At 09:27 PM 8/26/2012, Tony Drews wrote:
>Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt
>(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.
>
>I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Aug 26 20:49:49 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:49:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>

Tony Drews wrote:
> Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
> (TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower 
> wishbones.
I've always ended up using a die grinder with cut off wheel to free the 
trunnion from the
wishbones, then replacing the trunnion if the rusted bolt and sleeve 
ovaled it out.


mjb.


From chasgee at aol.com  Sun Aug 26 21:39:14 2012
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:39:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <104D9428-C701-4FF3-A4C2-47EAEC059732@aol.com>

I'm trying to make it.  It's going to be close.

Chuck

On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
> 
> Never be beaten by equipment
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Aug 27 07:31:27 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:31:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
In-Reply-To: <004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>
References: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
	<004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208270929480.11899@isis.mit.edu>

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012, Clark W. Nicholls wrote:

> I'll be there, working in the pit lane or roaming.
> Frank's MGTD is waiting on a frame/body transplant after multi-roll at NJMSP
> in July.

I'll be there, mostly roaming or spectating from the hill at the esses. We 
have four or five Triumphs caravanning from Central MA first thing SAT, 
and one of our members camps at the climbing turn every year...

> Clark
> Clark W. Nicholls
> 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U)
> and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner


c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Aug 27 08:17:14 2012
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:17:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 69, Issue 26- Limerock
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7691.1346074132.2453.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7691.1346074132.2453.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF1AC4B0DF.E5E5636D-ON85257A67.004D68EF-85257A67.004E7F5C@us.ibm.com>

I'll be racing the Spitfire at Limerock, hopefully with the new engine, if
it's back from the shop in time (like tomorrow). Had a rebuild of my spare
motor, with some pointers I picked up at the Mitty. The shop found scoring
on the crank from a failed spring shim. I had a spare crank waiting for
just such an emergency. Got the engine back last week, went to swap it
yesterday and forgot that my flywheel and cranks have been drilled out to
use 7/16 ARP bolts, and this one wasn't. Shop is making a fixture to drill
crank in block. Several Plan B's, all of then involve a late night or 2
before Thursday.

I'm also doing the  4PM Thursday race car parade from the track to
Lakeville. The track is still looking for vintage cars to accompany the
race cars into town, if you're interested contact Limerock.

63 Spit


G. Michael Harmuth


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Aug 27 08:34:32 2012
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:34:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
	<503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>

Hate to say it but this is a serious lack of preventive maintenance! 
All too common but shouldn't be on a race car!
Cover the new bolt and bushing sleeve with grease on re-assembly!
Yikes!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 27 12:19:21 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 11:19:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire on CL
Message-ID: <06C2D85382464996BEAC17C829EB50BE@Charly>

http://hiltonhead.craigslist.org/cto/3190322843.html

Charly


From vintageautoservice at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 27 16:40:38 2012
From: vintageautoservice at yahoo.com (Guy Morter)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 15:40:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch disc diameter
Message-ID: <1346107238.69551.YahooMailClassic@web162205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

TR Amigos
I have a bunch of TR clutch discs that are 9-1/8" in dia. The one I need is 8-1/2" dia. What is the application for the 8-1/2" disc?
Guy Morter
Vintage Auto Service
262 573 4511

Flatheads Forever!


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 27 09:34:08 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:34:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
	<503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com> <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.156.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Was not on MY race car, but was hoping to have it there soon.  Is in 
the bits of "new to me" suspension parts that are / were going on the car.

Bolt will have anti-seize on it when it goes in my car.

Tony

At 09:34 AM 8/27/2012, Clark W. Nicholls wrote:
>Hate to say it but this is a serious lack of preventive maintenance!
>All too common but shouldn't be on a race car!
>Cover the new bolt and bushing sleeve with grease on re-assembly!
>Yikes!
>
>Clark
>Clark W. Nicholls
>1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U)
>and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
>"Reality, it's not what you think."


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Tue Aug 28 13:13:32 2012
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:13:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Rotoflex Parts Needed
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639BB41AAB5@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey members,

I need a pair (left and right) of rear wheel hubs for a Rotoflex GT6 as well
as the inner rear radius arm mounts/stud. The ones that go thru/connects
together bottom of the upright and lower control arm and provides a mount for
the radius arm as it goes toward the bodies radius arm mount.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From cartravel at pobox.com  Tue Aug 28 17:32:15 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 18:32:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
Message-ID: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>

Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know 
they are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be 
more useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S 
carbs.  I'm looking for something similar to the SU needle information 
on the web, so I don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the 
computer.  I'll use SU needles if necessary, but would like to see (in 
an easy to compare form) what is available for the Z-S carbs.
Thanks,
Larry


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 28 17:55:06 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 19:55:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS78FF76FCE1A898F6EBDAE3B2A10@phx.gbl>

I take it you mean Zenith Stromberg.  What carbs are you dealing with?  I just
spent much research and time analyzing zenith needle charts to come up with
something for the cd150s in my GT6 racers as it was starving for fuel.  First
race event starts Thursday so i can get right down to fine tuning.  The needle
I chose made a big difference in the brief test run I did last week.

My set up is fairly mild with a fast road cam 290 duration and about 10:1
compression with better breathing intake and exhaust.

I'll send you the charts and the little spread sheet I set up that compares
needle profiles if you want it.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-28, at 7:37 PM, "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com> wrote:

> Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know they
are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be more
useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S carbs.  I'm
looking for something similar to the SU needle information on the web, so I
don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the computer.  I'll use SU needles
if necessary, but would like to see (in an easy to compare form) what is
available for the Z-S carbs.
> Thanks,
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 28 18:28:52 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 20:28:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <8CF5394661B3BFC-D08-3E6F9@webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com>

 We use SU NEEDLES on our Strombergs....shim stock is required to locate
needle and to center it.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com>
To: FOT <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 28, 2012 6:37 pm
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs


Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know
they are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be
more useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S
carbs.  I'm looking for something similar to the SU needle information
on the web, so I don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the
computer.  I'll use SU needles if necessary, but would like to see (in
an easy to compare form) what is available for the Z-S carbs.
Thanks,
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 29 05:14:42 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 07:14:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparisons
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>

Larry here's my comparison spreadsheet. I'm running the B5CE needle this weekend and will let you know how they perform.  Ill send you the complete Zenith chart as well when I can. 

Cheers

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Garrett, Vince" <vgarrett at scdsb.on.ca>
> Date: 15 August, 2012 11:29:38 AM EDT
> To: <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
> Subject: CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparisons
> 
>  
> GT6+,  Stromberg CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparison Chart
> These and other needles available through Rimmer.  The Rimmer MK3 Upgrade is their suggestion when K&N's and Tubular Exhaust is fitted
> Adjusted Richer
> My Pick/Richer
> My Pick Adjusted Richer
> RIMMER MK3 Upgrade
> RIMMER MK3 Adjusted Richer
> Stock B5AJ
> B5AJ+1/8"
> B5CE
> DIFF
> B5CE+1/8"
> DIFF
> B5BU
> B5BU+1/8"
> DIFF
> 0.0855
> 0.0843
> 0.0012
> 0.0880
> -0.0025
> 0.0845
> 0.0010
> 0.0881
> -0.0026
> 0.0853
> 0.0002
> 0.0843
> 0.0829
> 0.0014
> 0.0845
> -0.0002
> 0.0817
> 0.0026
> 0.0853
> -0.0010
> 0.0830
> 0.0013
> 0.0829
> 0.0800
> 0.0029
> 0.0817
> 0.0012
> 0.0797
> 0.0032
> 0.0830
> -0.0001
> 0.0804
> 0.0025
> 0.0800
> 0.0766
> 0.0034
> 0.0797
> 0.0003
> 0.0770
> 0.0030
> 0.0804
> -0.0004
> 0.0783
> 0.0017
> 0.0766
> 0.0737
> 0.0029
> 0.0770
> -0.0004
> 0.0739
> 0.0027
> 0.0783
> -0.0017
> 0.0755
> 0.0011
> 0.0737
> 0.0709
> 0.0028
> 0.0739
> -0.0002
> 0.0698
> 0.0039
> 0.0755
> -0.0018
> 0.0725
> 0.0012
> 0.0709
> 0.0683
> 0.0026
> 0.0698
> 0.0011
> 0.0651
> 0.0058
> 0.0725
> -0.0016
> 0.0696
> 0.0013
> 0.0683
> 0.0671
> 0.0012
> 0.0651
> 0.0032
> 0.0605
> 0.0078
> 0.0696
> -0.0013
> 0.0678
> 0.0005
> 0.0671
> 0.0657
> 0.0014
> 0.0605
> 0.0066
> 0.0560
> 0.0111
> 0.0678
> -0.0007
> 0.0665
> 0.0006
> 0.0657
> 0.0644
> 0.0013
> 0.0560
> 0.0097
> 0.0510
> 0.0147
> 0.0665
> -0.0008
> 0.0552
> 0.0105
> 0.0644
> 0.0635
> 0.0009
> 0.0510
> 0.0134
> 0.0510
> 0.0134
> 0.0552
> 0.0092
> 0.0541
> 0.0103
> 0.0635
> 0.0635
> 0.0000
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0541
> 0.0094
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
> 0.0635
> 0.0635
> 0.0000
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
>  
>  
> Vince Garrett
> Project Coordinator b Technology
> Information Technology Services
> Simcoe County District School Board
> (705) 734-6363 Ext: 11404


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Aug 29 16:33:54 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls", 
you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the 
spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two 
Zenith Stromberg needles.

To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles 
with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU 
needles if you want.

Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart 
are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the 
numbers look pretty close indeed.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From igofaster at att.net  Wed Aug 29 16:34:04 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 15:34:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
Message-ID: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an 
engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this time... 
I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this year, 
I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get 
started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there 
specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone Classics 
that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show TR6 
pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same 
piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the 
longer stroke on the TR6....
Any leads on a one stop shop for both?

Bobby Whitehead


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Wed Aug 29 17:06:23 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <503EA06F.6070402@cfl.rr.com>

Nothing sounds like a GT6 engine at full song. TR6 motor would be 
blasphemy. Don't do it!!

Venolia can make the pistons to your spec and I'm sure Carillo can 
supply rods ,too.

Ric Cline is the key to building a really good GT6 motor (sorry, I know 
I have probably said this too many times).

Bob


On 8/29/12 6:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an
> engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this time...
> I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this year,
> I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get
> started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there
> specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Aug 29 17:14:27 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:14:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6 rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYpZPBMEmVFaAdW6_0=S7GJOeJ9SiCbUf5txaB1=63drBQ@mail.gmail.com>

There are many things that make sense to swap out of a GT6.
In my opinion... the motor is NOT one of them.
All those trick parts you speak of are available but I cannot comment on
what's best out there.
Scott J. and I seem to do just fine with pretty basic stuff that has more
less been (motor wise) raced for 40 years...in the group 44 cars, in Kas's
car's.
Steve has taken it beyond with his car (check out his pistons on his
photo site) and I'm sure he is faster.
Take it slow you can always add stuff as you rebuild again.
Ted would be a great choice to get you going quick enough (and give you a
solid foundation for development)
Maybe I'm in the minority but you realy don't have to get so nutty with all
that expensive stuff for the first build.
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an
> engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this
> time...
> I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this
> year,
> I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get
> started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there
> specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone
> Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show
> TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Wed Aug 29 17:24:16 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:24:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194


From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Aug 29 17:38:33 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 23:38:33 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>

just a reminder that on page 110 of my book the "Handbook" there is a chart of
the needles we used with great success in  the 1.5" carbs..  These are
STROMBERG needles. Lots of number to compare. By the way that is .006" shim
stock you need to use an S.U. needle.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: cartravel at pobox.com
> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
>
> Hi,
>
> I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls",
> you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the
> spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two
> Zenith Stromberg needles.
>
> To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles
> with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU
> needles if you want.
>
> Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart
> are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the
> numbers look pretty close indeed.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Aug 29 17:39:18 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:39:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
	<00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
Message-ID: <000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>

Just out of curiosity (and not to start another thread on valve guide
clearance:)) what clearance were you running with the bronze guides?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:24 PM
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Aug 29 18:56:19 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:56:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CFB6D893-8FA8-4C46-A657-AD7638F39825@gmail.com>

Hi Bobby,

How does $710 for a set of forged, shot-peened 4340 H-beam connecting rods
sound?

http://www.maxspeedingrods-store.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500late-1300GT6-TR6-Co
nrods-6-pieces-CR-TRI-TR6.htm

Duncan


On Aug 29, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:

>  I found Wishbone Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show
TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 29 19:06:53 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 21:06:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
	<SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS522F6D14BC169B6D54258FDB2A70@phx.gbl>

Cool thanks Kas. I may have to take a look....

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-29, at 7:39 PM, "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> just a reminder that on page 110 of my book the "Handbook" there is a chart
of
> the needles we used with great success in  the 1.5" carbs..  These are
> STROMBERG needles. Lots of number to compare. By the way that is .006" shim
> stock you need to use an S.U. needle.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: cartravel at pobox.com
>> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls",
>> you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the
>> spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two
>> Zenith Stromberg needles.
>>
>> To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles
>> with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU
>> needles if you want.
>>
>> Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart
>> are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the
>> numbers look pretty close indeed.
>>
>> Regards,
>> rml
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Aug 30 08:29:00 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 07:29:00 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<CFB6D893-8FA8-4C46-A657-AD7638F39825@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E5D044A927641AAA53EE966E5AF3831@Charly>

I have these in my TR6 motor and so far I have no complaints.
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 rebuild ...


> Hi Bobby,
>
> How does $710 for a set of forged, shot-peened 4340 H-beam connecting rods
> sound?
>
> http://www.maxspeedingrods-store.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500late-1300GT6-TR6-Co
> nrods-6-pieces-CR-TRI-TR6.htm
>
> Duncan
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>
>>  I found Wishbone Classics
>> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site 
>> show
> TR6
>> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
>> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was 
>> the
>> longer stroke on the TR6....
>> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 30 11:49:09 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 13:49:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
	<00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
	<000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>
Message-ID: <00c501cd86d7$c2acaf40$48060dc0$@net>

I didn't ask about the tolerances. I simply trusted the machinist.

Because of personal recommendations, I took the head to Automotive Precision
Machinery in Atlanta. The bill was about $600 for re-surfacing the head and
3 angle and assembly. This did not include parts. Upon disassembly, I found
the valve seats single faced. 

They had the crankshaft nitrited and upon assembly I found it not true. I
took it back and they heated it and bent it back to what seemed like perfect
to me. I don't know if that's normal but watching your crankshaft visibly
bent is like watching sausage being made....or worse, watching an abnormal
sex act. 

I would not recommend them to others.

Richard Taylor
TR-4 #196


-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Murphy [mailto:timmurph at fastbytes.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 7:39 PM
To: 'Richard Taylor'; FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

Just out of curiosity (and not to start another thread on valve guide
clearance:)) what clearance were you running with the bronze guides?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:24 PM
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 14:24:03 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 16:24:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Alex Rourke
Message-ID: <098ykkwtesyqs3op5nuyrbfp.1346358243148@email.android.com>

Amici,

Does anyone know Alex Rourke? Not sure where he is from, but I know he ran at Grattan the last couple of years. He drives a yellow 1962 Lotus Elan. If you have an email address, that would be great.

Thanks,

Doug

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 30 14:27:54 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 13:27:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Aug 30 14:46:32 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 15:46:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>

I'll certainly second that!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Edward Dunn
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 3:28 PM
To: 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From chasgee at aol.com  Thu Aug 30 15:30:01 2012
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 14:30:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>

Wow, you made it another year.  Who'd a thought...

Chuck

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 30, 2012, at 1:27 PM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
> Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.
>
> Cheers to Kas!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 30 16:16:51 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:16:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>
Message-ID: <012801cd86fd$28406890$78c139b0$@net>

Kas,

Happy Birthday.

You are an incredible asset to so may of us. But most especially thank you
for being a friend.

Many happy returns.



Richard  L. Taylor, Jr., FAIA
TAYLOR           ARCHITECTURE
112  Krog  St.     Suite  196
Atlanta,    Georgia,    30307
tel:           (404) 223-1313
fax:           (404) 223-1312
mobile:        (404) 660-4920
www.taylor-architecture.com


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tim Murphy
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 4:47 PM
To: 'Edward Dunn'; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

I'll certainly second that!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Edward Dunn
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 3:28 PM
To: 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From bob at nwspeedshots.com  Thu Aug 30 16:25:02 2012
From: bob at nwspeedshots.com (Bob Pengraph)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 22:25:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.157.1638251580.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Happy Birthday Kas!
Never be beaten by age!
Take care,
Bob Pengraph
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: chasgee at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 14:30:01 
To: Kas Kastner<kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Wow, you made it another year.  Who'd a thought...

Chuck

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 30, 2012, at 1:27 PM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
> Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.
>
> Cheers to Kas!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bob at nwspeedshots.com


From goodparts at verizon.net  Thu Aug 30 17:33:11 2012
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 19:33:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <874C324F3FF54B74BAF0FBB46BDF5FC6@AdminPC>

I would like to nominate my friend Boyd Wagner to our group.  He is a Triumph
enthusiast and has done beautiful restorations on a TR250 and a 1969 TR6 and
also has a 1974 TR6.  He recently built a Sprite for autocross and hillclimb.

Richard Good


From awashatko at wi.rr.com  Thu Aug 30 17:39:11 2012
From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:39:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
Message-ID: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>

Kas,

Wishing you the best on your birthday.
Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.

In appreciation,

Allen


Allen & Jody Washatko
1971 TR6  - Number 6


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 17:39:23 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 19:39:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <79qn3796ib98ehfid1gdhqr0.1346369963253@email.android.com>

I'll second the nomination.
Cheers,

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

Richard Good <goodparts at verizon.net> wrote:

>I would like to nominate my friend Boyd Wagner to our group.  He is a Triumph
>enthusiast and has done beautiful restorations on a TR250 and a 1969 TR6 and
>also has a 1974 TR6.  He recently built a Sprite for autocross and hillclimb.
>
>Richard Good
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 30 18:58:52 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1058E9DE48A34C374D42268B2A60@phx.gbl>

Happy birthday!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-30, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Kas,
>
> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
>
> In appreciation,
>
> Allen
>
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Aug 30 19:23:35 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:23:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
	<SNT401-EAS1058E9DE48A34C374D42268B2A60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B47E17B13B5340858C5BC74961883354@Bud>

Happy Birthday Kas..Thanks for all that you do/have done for the racing 
world.
Racer Bud..
Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Vince G" <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 5:58 PM
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas


> Happy birthday!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-08-30, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Kas,
>>
>> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
>> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
>>
>> In appreciation,
>>
>> Allen
>>
>>
>> Allen & Jody Washatko
>> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 19:48:58 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:48:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kas
Message-ID: <496E4F48-887E-4EBB-94BE-D43797094488@sbcglobal.net>

Happy Birthday!

Dennis&Joan


From clw2000 at msn.com  Thu Aug 30 20:35:42 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 22:35:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>

Happy Birthday to an icon of sport!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2012, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Kas,
> 
> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
> 
> In appreciation,
> 
> Allen
> 
> 
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Fri Aug 31 05:36:59 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 07:36:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Not Triumph, but MG parts and cars for sale
References: <003e01cd8719$fc81a760$f584f620$@net>
Message-ID: <6BD2DD53-6B24-43E4-9A40-345A51BCC53C@aol.com>

I got this from another club I am part of.  I am sure someone might be
interested.

Chris
>
>
> B7         bTwo MG B's (b75 & b79) partially dismantled including most
if not all their parts.
>
> B7         A very good size truck load of MG parts including a number of
engine's and transmissions hood, trunks with and without luggage racks,  extra
set of seats just a bunch of stuff.
>
> The cars are on our lot and available to be viewed during normal business
hours the parts we would have to set up an appointment to view but would not
be difficult to do that  I do have some pictures and would be happy to send
them to you just let me know.   Thank you for any leads you find.  We would
prefer to sell everything for one deal at this time but as time goes by we
will start to sell bits and pieces .  Feel free to pass along my email and or
phone number  and again thank you.
>
>
> Ditmire Motorworks
> 425 White Horse Pike
> Absecon, NJ 08201
> (609) 641-3392
>
> ditmiremb at gmail.com
> Feel free to Give me a call I'll be happy to help.  Joelb


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri Aug 31 08:18:23 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 10:18:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot]  Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
	<BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001201cd8783$7ad976b0$708c6410$@net>

Happy Birthday!

Craig


From jason at multivintage.com  Fri Aug 31 12:30:22 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 13:30:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Phiosophical Reflections on GT6 motor internals
Message-ID: <CALCydYoRMYA4RtcyA-z7NzUx4QLqDsRc9ik1bfMsVaZUPPomEA@mail.gmail.com>

There are not that many GT6's out there racing week after week..
I have said before that my approach for the past few years has been to
focus on maintaining the car with the mechanical properties that have been
long time race proven.
"Knowledge" gained from studying the great cars I grew up with here in the
Midwest and lucky to have my own working historical template, I remain true
to many seemingly "old school" ways.
Not surprisingly, what I have found to be the working norm usually follows
pretty close in line with Kas's early yellow version of the
"Competition Preparation Manual" for the GT6+...
reoccurringly and affectionately referred to in my garage as "the little
yellow book"

This takes me back to fond memories of perhaps the Silver Age of GT6ing (In
my mind)((from the mid 1970's to the mid 80's)). The factory cars had
disappeared. The guys that were left racing GT6's were still trying to keep
the cars running like the factory backed cars of years earlier.
To do this, you basically had to have a GT6 graveyard in your backyard. And
if you were very lucky you could find access to those coveted "V" parts...
which had virtually disappeared as well.
However, with close attention to details in "the little yellow book" using
parts from your backyard graveyard... you could foil Datsuns and Alfas for
a class win.
If the stars were in alignment, you might even be a real underdog hero
and nudge out a super sized GT1 muscle car for the overall win.

Of course, you hear about Group 44 and Kastner and Cline and their glorious
GT6's.
In my world, there was a guy named Dennis Moeller who pioneered the
campaign of GT6's in the Midwest. There were a few more names that dabbled
with the cars as well but my learning came mostly from hanging around the
cars of John Reed and my Dad... as they continued to fight the battle in
GT6's for many years.
Builders and racers that worked with very little (in the way of new
parts)... but with attention to details and many grueling hours of smart
preparation of mostly used Triumph Parts or custom "one offs"... they held
there own.
My modest friend John Reed is not the type to talk much about winning in
his "Zippy"... but his record is quite impressive. He won tons of races
back in the day and was always in contention for the Midwestern Council DP
championship. I have yet to meet a driver that  finished more events in a
GT6.
As a lucky second generation GT6 addict, I am fortunate to have these guys
(John and my Dad) as Coaches, advisers and aging crew members.
And as the self appointed curator of our three cars and a few spare motors
I can say, rather proudly, that they all have stock connecting rods and
stock pistons.
Each motor varies in potency. A couple are real killers and through it all
have been pretty much bulletproof.
Somehow over the past 40 years the three main cars managed to rack up over
400 race finishes.  .
My plan is to have all three (very different) cars up at Road America for
the next Kastner Cup. Each with it's corresponding "Legend of motorsport"

Now, not to be narrow minded, or resistant to change, or stuck with a 1972
rule book in hand....
Someday I would like to try my hand (budget pending) with some of the newer
trick stuff out there and I do support any newfangled modern production of
quality parts.The parts that we have used in these motors has been mostly
a matter of means and, more importantly, has followed efforts of being able
to keep them built and tuned "in house" with limited equipment.  Most
importantly, they need to be assembled with personal notes, the illustrated
factory manuals and help from that old "little yellow book."

Whatever parts you have or decide to put in your GT6, Please, please make
plans to bring them ALL to the next Kastner Cup.
Shot peened steel?, aluminium?, carbon fiber?....bring it to Road America a
year from now.
LET'S RACE!

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug  1 19:42:01 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 21:42:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 ENGINE    AVAILABLE   FLORENCE, AL
In-Reply-To: <8CF3E4F1FAB241D-1708-1CE4A@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF325AF65E7762-EFC-8FA9@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3BE67B45F9D1-21C8-31D44@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3C0794C85C57-DB0-25729@web-mmc-m03.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3E4F1FAB241D-1708-1CE4A@webmail-d089.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF3E67252E2F0B-16F8-92FA@webmail-m145.sysops.aol.com>

Marv Gruber says he has an engine available. I am just passing it along. His
email is below.



-----Original Message-----
From: Mgruber921 <mgruber921 at aol.com>
To: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2012 5:50 pm
Subject: Re: TR3 FRAME?


Joe
bought some more parts this week. Got a TR4a big valve engine in. All
disassembled looks good. Crank bearings are std. Having the head checked
tomorrow. Know anyone wanting a TR4a engine? $400

Marv


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  1 19:50:11 2012
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 19:50:11 -0600
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
Message-ID: <C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>

I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque  
2014.
The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is  
a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a  
Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good  
choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show  
needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.  
There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in  
1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky  
mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225  
plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four  
star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the  
track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of  
Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the trip.
When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've  
looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is  
still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really  
don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the  
idea.
I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in  
between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and  
through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered  
about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power  
challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is  
not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to  
be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with  
enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more  
track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be  
able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather  
here lasts into early November.
I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid  
info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
Thanks,
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM
On Jul 31, 2012, at 4:58 PM, Walter Hollowell wrote:

> I wish to put in a strong plug for NAPA Speedway in Albuquerque,  
> New Mexico
> for the 2014 Kastner Cup event. We have a nice 1.7 mile 14 corner  
> technical
> road course that my local road race club uses. This track is  
> located right
> off of I-40. The facilities are first class including lots of RV  
> hook-ups.
> New Mexico has lots to offer when visitors are not on the  
> racetrack.  I have
> spoken to one of the owners of the track and he is very supportive of
> hosting this event. You can check out the speedway at:  
> www.napaspeedway.com
> I can be your initial contact on this project if there is any  
> interest. You
> can also check out some club racing at this track at our website:
> www.swms.com
> Thank You for your Consideration
>
> Walt Hollowell
> Albuquerque, New Mexico
> Ph 505 362-4350
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot- 
> bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Alexander
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 1:42 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
>
> Russ Moore has a brilliant plan for TRIUMPHS at MOSPORT in June of
> 2014.........................
>
> Kas and I are targeting dates and a venue that does not conflict  
> with Russ'
> planning.
>
> We are looking at the SOUTH and WEST and in the second half of the
> year....maybe later in the second half of the year.
>
> New tracks are candidates
> Probability of good weather is a plus....no 90 - 100 degree temps  
> FESTIVAL
> EVENTS have never been a requirement.
> We dont need to have 50 TRIUMPHS entered to have a good time..
>
> Geographically, it just isnt possible to satisfy all of North America.
> Having one big event each year has never been a goal.....witness Russ'
> efforts.
>
> I have had two FOT folks step forward for 2014 and both proposals are
> candidates.
> More choices and proposals are requested.
>
> Please step forward.....THANKS!
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot- 
> tr6.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ 
> lunkercars at earthlink.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug  1 22:26:48 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2012 23:26:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
	<C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.140.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

swms.com seems to be a web parking site. so I'm not getting any love 
from it.  www.napaspeedway.com doesn't say anything about when the 
SWMS events are run.

It's about a 20 hour drive for me which may be doable, Mosport is 
just a little closer.  It would be helpful to know about when in the 
year this event could be scheduled for.

I think the main thing needed is to figure out if the date could work 
(to me, depending on normal weather - ie not blazingly hot, Sept / 
Oct / Nov would be good) and determine who would spearhead the 
event.  Sounds like Walt and Lunker are good candidates there.  Of 
course, the Mosport side is still being discussed, so I still 
consider it a tentative event.  That one's in June - it's an awesome 
track to run, I was thinking of going back there in 2013 as the Kas 
Cup is closer to home that year but would delay a year to have a 
return trip coincide with a stronger Triumph showing.  From the 
Napaspeedway site, I'm kinda getting an IRP (Indianapolis Raceway 
Park) vibe - road track that could use a bit more love with an oval 
nestled inside.  Make the front straight also be a drag strip and 
it'd be closer.  I liked that track, too bad we don't go there anymore.

Tony Drews

At 08:50 PM 8/1/2012, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote:
>I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque
>2014.
>The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is
>a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a
>Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good
>choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show
>needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.
>There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in
>1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
>Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky
>mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225
>plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four
>star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the
>track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of
>Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the trip.
>When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've
>looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is
>still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really
>don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the
>idea.
>I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in
>between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and
>through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered
>about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power
>challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is
>not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to
>be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with
>enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more
>track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be
>able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather
>here lasts into early November.
>I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid
>info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
>Thanks,
>Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>TR4 #314
>Albuquerque NM


From Lunkercars at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  1 23:04:13 2012
From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 23:04:13 -0600
Subject: [Fot] more... KASTNER CUP PLANNING FOR 2014 - PLEASE READ
In-Reply-To: <201208020027.1sWN0s5Pl3Nl34d1@mx-pinchot.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <8CF3D6BAE83CFB1-FFC-127B3@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd6f70$06d31710$14794530$@hot-tr6.com>
	<C20B558E-2ACE-4D0E-ABB3-5856F38DD5D2@earthlink.net>
	<201208020027.1sWN0s5Pl3Nl34d1@mx-pinchot.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <023C9B9D-42DF-4894-BEAF-D1B5302783AB@earthlink.net>

Right you are Tony!
My mistake... go to http://swms.org/ . NAPA Speedway is a fairly new  
entity - might not be too useful yet for web info.
As I understand, the Mosport event is Triumph oriented to the max but  
not the site of the 2014 Kas Cup.
Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
TR4 #314
Albuquerque NM

On Aug 1, 2012, at 10:26 PM, Tony Drews wrote:

> swms.com seems to be a web parking site. so I'm not getting any  
> love from it.  www.napaspeedway.com doesn't say anything about when  
> the SWMS events are run.
>
> It's about a 20 hour drive for me which may be doable, Mosport is  
> just a little closer.  It would be helpful to know about when in  
> the year this event could be scheduled for.
>
> I think the main thing needed is to figure out if the date could  
> work (to me, depending on normal weather - ie not blazingly hot,  
> Sept / Oct / Nov would be good) and determine who would spearhead  
> the event.  Sounds like Walt and Lunker are good candidates there.   
> Of course, the Mosport side is still being discussed, so I still  
> consider it a tentative event.  That one's in June - it's an  
> awesome track to run, I was thinking of going back there in 2013 as  
> the Kas Cup is closer to home that year but would delay a year to  
> have a return trip coincide with a stronger Triumph showing.  From  
> the Napaspeedway site, I'm kinda getting an IRP (Indianapolis  
> Raceway Park) vibe - road track that could use a bit more love with  
> an oval nestled inside.  Make the front straight also be a drag  
> strip and it'd be closer.  I liked that track, too bad we don't go  
> there anymore.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 08:50 PM 8/1/2012, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote:
>> I wholeheartedly second and support Walt's proposal for Albuquerque
>> 2014.
>> The NAPA Speedway [formerly known as the Sandia Motorrsports Park] is
>> a little jewel of a track. Very technical - to the point that a
>> Spitfire [or maybe a hot Herald... hello Jerry] could be a good
>> choice for a overall win. Though the surface is starting to show
>> needs of a re-pave, it's not chunked out but is a bit hard on tires.
>> There is a chance that could change by '14. The facility was built in
>> 1999 and is nice and accommodating by any standards.
>> Albuquerque is within a days drive for those from the mid-west, rocky
>> mountain region and most of Cal. As of now, our entry fees are $225
>> plus $50 for a Friday test and tune. Gas is about $3.05 and a four
>> star hotel room can be had for about $100 [within 20 miles of the
>> track] - a bargain! And for non-racing interests, it IS "The Land of
>> Enchantment" - just pick a direction and see something worth the  
>> trip.
>> When's the last time you were at a New Mexico race track Kas? I've
>> looked into a revival race at Fort Sumner and although the surface is
>> still intact, the FAA, NOAA and the National Weather Service really
>> don't much care about racing... oh well, at least the mayor liked the
>> idea.
>> I've been to Kas Cup races on both coasts and a few points in
>> between. While I do like the big events at the big tracks, and
>> through the FoT have enjoyed some great venues, I've also wondered
>> about a more "intimate" setting. And being a somewhat "power
>> challenged" guy, I'd personally like to see a K/C at a track that is
>> not quite so power oriented as say... Road America - though I hope to
>> be there. We at Southwest Motorsport [see SWMS.com ]  can [with
>> enough advance planning] truly cater a event for the FoT with more
>> track time you can stand. And with enough lead time, might even be
>> able to schedule it for dates determined by FoT input. Racing weather
>> here lasts into early November.
>> I've been in contact with Walt and we can come up with more solid
>> info - just need some more feedback to judge the interest.
>> Thanks,
>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer
>> TR4 #314
>> Albuquerque NM


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Aug  2 08:05:40 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:05:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP 2014 VENUE SELECTION by PROPOSAL a request.
Message-ID: <8CF3ECF085BFD38-2044-24D97@webmail-d055.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

Thanks for the responses and observations. Now down to business.

It looks like we are ripe for running the KASTNER CUP at a smaller venue with
a hardy band of local Triumph Racers leading the way.

We have had some great events at the larger storied venues. Kas senses it is
time to go back to grassroots basics for a race among ourselves without the
distractions of a big 'festival' events

ONE PAGE PROPOSALS wanted:

VENUE
SANCTIONING BODY
PROPOSED EVENT
DATES
ENTRY FEE ESTIMATE
LINKS TO RELEVANT INFORMATION

Expectations are that we have a stand alone KASTNER CUP RACE with at least one
practice session within our group. Kas Kastner might be considered GRAND
MARSHALL for the weekend.

The availability of a dedicated paddock area for the Triumphs would be a
reasonable expectation and a 20 x 20  'Hospitality Tent' or area would be a
plus.

A destination location with some of the features listed is good, along with a
proposed host hotel.

Selection might take place by AUGUST 2013 in time to be announced at the
Kastner Cup 2012 at Road America.  Does this planning seem a bit early? No. It
takes a lot of planning and organization to do this right.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Thu Aug  2 15:54:53 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
Message-ID: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Triumph Friends,

I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
GT6.
The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From clw2000 at msn.com  Thu Aug  2 16:06:39 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 18:06:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>

Jason -

This guy has something of a Triumph graveyard.  I'm sure they would need
rebuilding, but if you're desperate try him:

Don Trammel - 864-787-0622

Thanks,

Chuck Watson


Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers
Columbia, Greenville, Spartanburg & Lexington, SC









> Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
>
> Hello Triumph Friends,
>
> I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
> GT6.
> The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
> I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From list at mackenzie.aero  Thu Aug  2 16:19:21 2012
From: list at mackenzie.aero (Robert MacKenzie)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 17:19:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>
References: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
	<BLU154-W4899A385FFBAC714497180BFCB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004501cd70fc$dde08200$99a18600$@aero>

Joe Curto has a set of Euro spec 150 he tried to sell me not too long ago.

Joe Curto, Inc.
22-09 126th Street
College Point, NY 11356
(718)762-SUSU (7878)
Joecurto.com


Robert Mackenzie
Austin TX



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Charles WATSON
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 5:07 PM
To: jason at multivintage.com; FOT List
Subject: Re: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs

Jason -

This guy has something of a Triumph graveyard.  I'm sure they would need
rebuilding, but if you're desperate try him:

Don Trammel - 864-787-0622

Thanks,

Chuck Watson


Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers
Columbia, Greenville, Spartanburg & Lexington, SC









> Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 16:54:53 -0500
> From: jason at multivintage.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
>
> Hello Triumph Friends,
>
> I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
> GT6.
> The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
> I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jason Ostrowski
> Friendly Ghost Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/list at mackenzie.aero


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Aug  3 07:37:20 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 09:37:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com>
	<8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com>
	<CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Fri Aug  3 08:50:56 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 10:50:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com><8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com><CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com><8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>

SPEC Clutches in Birmingham AL has many different types of racing clutches
for TR's 2 - 8.  The one in my TR3 with a close ratio gear set is a stage 3
paddle type.   Remember, the splines on a close ratio are different than a
stock box.  


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 9:37 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Aug  3 08:53:59 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 10:53:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
 TEXT BELOW
In-Reply-To: <E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>
References: <000801cd6f6b$dbdb7970$93926c50$@com><8CF3D84C07A07F1-FFC-13A09@Webmail-m111.sysops.aol.com><CAB2OWxvvj_yC-RuuD1eu3GvGiwObaNc-nA4fSMO6+EG4ZyV9mg@mail.gmail.com><8CF3F9090E64BD1-1A68-1AD8F@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF3F943DC0DA51-1A68-1B6B8@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>
	<E52E35480A714A29A8DBA1BEFDF6F5D9@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <8CF3F9EF267909F-1A68-1C6F6@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com>

yes....we have CR box and TREVOR built to our spec.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: john hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: 'Joe Alexander' <n197tr4 at cs.com>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Aug 3, 2012 9:51 am
Subject: RE: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW


SPEC Clutches in Birmingham AL has many different types of racing clutches
for TR's 2 - 8.  The one in my TR3 with a close ratio gear set is a stage 3
paddle type.   Remember, the splines on a close ratio are different than a
stock box.


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 9:37 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] High Performance Clutch Discs for our Racing Triumphs SEE
TEXT BELOW

FOT:

The Minnesota guys discovered a source of a racing clutch for our Triumphs.

We outgrew the capacity of our clutch. After the 2nd failure we went to
Minnesota's

TREVOR OLSON
THE CLUTCH DOCTOR
40167 FLINK AVENUE
NORTH BRANCH, MN  55056
651.614.4175


See Sean's comments below on a description and his experience so far, to Tim
Murphy. We have a representative picture available.  It is a paddle style
clutch. I thought we should share this with everyone.

(Thanks to RUSS WESTFALL and JOHN HAGEN....MN)




From: Sean Alexander <alex3rail at gmail.com>
To: timmurph <timmurph at fastbytes.com>
Cc: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>; peettigers <peettigers at yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Clutch disc for TR4



The clutch we purchased from Trevor at Clutch Doctor is a lot like the
attached picture.

The overall construction of the center hub, spring mounts and flex plate are
more robust that than we have had in the past.  The clutch wear contact
surfaces are some type of metallic imbedded material that isnt supposed to
slip if oil gets on the flywheel.

Trevor can custom build to suit from the commercially available components.

 I have been very happy with the clutch since it was installed.

Sean

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
ap_racing_6_paddle_clutch_drive_plate_only.jpg]
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 14:03:38 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 14:03:38 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
Message-ID: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>

That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


From mnewman at embarqmail.com  Fri Aug  3 14:35:13 2012
From: mnewman at embarqmail.com (William T newman)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 16:35:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYp+xS1LSvnq=8okLtf1RDHVezKM49BSk+-BwW4jn8+3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1592909033.362764.1344026113870.JavaMail.root@md23.embarq.synacor.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
To: triumph friends <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 02 Aug 2012 17:54:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Need GT6 Carbs
Jason:
I have a stock GT6 manifold with Strombergs in my storage. I don't know the year, but will let them go for cheap. Make me an offer off list or call me at 239-229-5766.
Bill Newman 
#44 GT6

Hello Triumph Friends,

I am looking to purchase a set of Stromberg 150 CDs carbs for a stock 1968
GT6.
The carbs need to have a linkage style for the dual choke cable set-up.
I would like something ready to go and need it rather quickly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mnewman at embarqmail.com


From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Aug  3 16:28:02 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 15:28:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
In-Reply-To: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>
References: <F6253F8F-F75B-456D-B4C4-6A2EA781F887@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDHzRORD-jznRcbdYmaphpTquAoaVr5twd1y68twQeAig@mail.gmail.com>

Not if ... WHEN

On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost
> parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it to
> Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're looking for
> things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B posts.
>
> So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying another
> my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The celebration may be
> short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.
>
> Somberly,
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/triosan@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com>
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Aug  3 17:15:59 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 17:15:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Sad Day - I sold a Triumph
Message-ID: <C7C79163-97A8-459D-B25C-AAE246689B21@comcast.net>

That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived though if (more like when) I buy a  
vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug  4 02:22:02 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2012 02:22:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Way behind
Message-ID: <501CDBAA.4000804@bradakis.com>

I'm way behind in dealing with my email.  If there are outstanding 
nominations,
queries, problems, etc. I will be working on getting caught up over the 
weekend.

mjb.


From grmtim at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 06:57:07 2012
From: grmtim at aol.com (Timothy Suddard)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 08:57:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at RM Auctions
In-Reply-To: <4FED1434.3000208@bradakis.com>
References: <1236236296-1340723843-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2103436145-@b5.c3.bise6.blackberry>
	<8CF21CA1DCCD28C-CF8-19212@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com>
	<000001cd53c4$e5c94240$b15bc6c0$@rr.com> <4FEA4E00.2060004@pobox.com>
	<4FECE7E5.6080402@pobox.com> <4FED1434.3000208@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CF4057C985B47B-15F4-2F2C8@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com>

As many of you already know, I have the Group 44, Inc. GT6+ listed at the RM
Auction in Monterey. It is lot #205 and will be the fifth car out on Saturday
night, August 18th. I donbt need to keep two race cars and have two kids
heading to college starting this fall. Yes, my son Tommy, who many of you also
know, is heading to my and Margie's alma mater, Stetson University, to study
family business, so he can take over the magazines someday. I also need to be
looking for the next car to write about. That is the nature of my world.That
said, I will most likely never sell my beloved TR3 and we plan on racing it at
Lime Rock, Labor Day weekend.

While I got some very strong offers for the GT6, I really donbt know what it
is worth and decided the fairest thing to do, both for the Triumph community
and for my family was to put it up for public auction, (with no reserve, by
the way) and let the chips fall where they may. I believe Saturday night, at
Monterey RM, is the best venue for this car. The restoration and history are
very openly and (hopefully) well documented in Classic Motorsports and now at
our website:
http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1969-triumph-group-44-gt6/

If you have serious interest please call me at: (386 239-0523) or email me at
tim at grassrootsmotorsports.com. A link to the RM Catalog is:
http://www.rmauctions.com/digitalcatalogs/2012/MO12/

I will obviously be at the auction Saturday night, if you want to say hi or
talk Triumphs. I want to thank everyone on the list who helped me with the car
and let everyone know, I am not going anywhere, just going back to my TR3 and
maybe looking for a TR4 next.

Obviously with no reserve, I am a bit nervous. Please help me spread the word,
talk up the car and bid high and often. You can bid online, or in advance via
email or phone, I believe.


From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Aug  4 12:34:46 2012
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 18:34:46 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Fw: TR4 Sale
Message-ID: <2019432003-1344105288-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1952047352-@b28.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Hello team... Just forwarding this along... nfi.
Mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2012 10:16:26 
To: <gasket.works at gte.net>
Subject: Re: TR4 Sale

*OK Here goes!*
*TR4 sale-1962 RACE CAR*
*VERY FAST,NEWLY RESTORED,(driver/owner retiring) ALL SPARES AND 20FT
ENCLOSED TRAILER INCL. MANY NEW PARTS,NEWLY SAND BLASTED AND PAINTED!*
*Ready to race in  all vintage clubs and events--must see*
*ALAN PINEL770- 337-2967 OR alanlpinel.pinel @ gmail.com
*
On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 9:27 AM, <gasket.works at gte.net> wrote:

> **
> Alan;
> Nice... But, I can't forward a document nor A photo. If you incorporate
> your document in an email without an attachment I will send it. Make sure
> you put contact info.
>
> Mordy.
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> ------------------------------
> *From: * Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
> *Date: *Sat, 04 Aug 2012 06:42:57 -0700
> *To: *<gasket.works at gte.net>
> *Subject: *Re: TR4 Sale
>
> *OK thanks!*
> *
> *
> On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 12:14 PM, <gasket.works at gte.net> wrote:
>
>> **
>> If you list what you are selling I will forward it to the friends of
>> triumph. Include your contact info. I can only forward text no photo's. A
>> link to photo's can be forwarded if yu have such.
>> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: * Alan Pinel <alpinel.pinel at gmail.com>
>> *Date: *Fri, 03 Aug 2012 11:56:37 -0700
>> *To: *<gasket.works at gte.net>
>> *Subject: *TR4 Sale
>>
>> *I am trying to sell my race car! Whatsite do I go on?*
>> *Thanks*
>> *Alan*


From robertten1 at aol.com  Sat Aug  4 17:54:46 2012
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:54:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
Message-ID: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the dyno
shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
engine.

To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in engine
note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked the
timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs around
and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no change
in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections at
the battery.

I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The Mallory
is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a leak-down
test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem I
would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder to
verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from Kas
)

I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place )
reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???

I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made some
changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2 step
leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But no
change to effect the misfire problem.

And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs just
no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??

So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one here
suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem


Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
A/E flat top pistons  +.040
Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
10/10 crank polished and balanced
Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
Duplex timing chain set-up
Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold


Stumpdified,
Bob T.


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  4 18:35:44 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:35:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1C79832D-5AB0-49E2-A3D4-6740C1183A9B@gmail.com>

Bob,

You mentioned that there is spark going to the plugs -- but were you able to
determine whether the plugs themselves are actually producing a visible spark?
If you removed those plugs, reconnected the wires, and then laid them on the
engine so that they could find ground, and still saw a spark, it would seem
you've completely eliminated that unless there is some way the current is
going to ground without creating a spark at the plug electrodes.

At any rate, it would be interesting to find out what you'd see if you used a
Colortune plug on one of the bad cylinders vs. one of the good cylinders.

If you're getting fire and compression, it would seem that the only variable
left would be fuel/air in or out of those two cylinders.  Any chance either
intake or exhaust manifold is restricted on those two cylinders?  #1 and #4
are connected via the tri-Y, right?...

The Weber sends one throat to #1 and #2, and the other to #3 and #4, right?

One more idea that's a bit far-fetched.  Any chance the cam lobes for #1 and
#4 are very differently shaped from those on #2 and #3?  You'd see normal
valve lash and get compression, but perhaps the valves are not opening very
far or for very long, which could affect power.  You might find it interesting
to put a degree wheel on the engine and see what the valve timing is like for
each individual cylinder.

Duncan
(Texas)


On Aug 4, 2012, at 6:54 PM, robertten1 at aol.com wrote:

> Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the
dyno
> shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
> hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
> engine.
>
> To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in
engine
> note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
the
> timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
around
> and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
change
> in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
at
> the battery.
>
> I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
> other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
> PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
Mallory
> is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
> problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
> both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.
>
> I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a
leak-down
> test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem
I
> would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
> cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
to
> verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from
Kas
> )
>
> I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place
)
> reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
> started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???
>
> I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
some
> changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
> Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
> screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2
step
> leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
no
> change to effect the misfire problem.
>
> And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
just
> no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
> performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??
>
> So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
here
> suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem
>
>
> Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
> A/E flat top pistons  +.040
> Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
> 6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
> 10/10 crank polished and balanced
> Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
> Duplex timing chain set-up
> Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
> Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
> Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold
>
>
> Stumpdified,
> Bob T.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Sat Aug  4 20:51:37 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 21:51:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>

Have you tried the old trick of spraying carb cleaner around the intake
manifold and carb mounting on #1 and #4 to see if you somehow have a massive
intake leak causing a very lean mixture and the misfire?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of robertten1 at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 6:55 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net; net at newenglandtriumphs.org; nedyno at gmail.co
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2

Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the dyno
shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
engine.

To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in engine
note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
the
timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
around
and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
change
in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
at
the battery.

I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
Mallory
is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.

I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a leak-down
test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a problem
I
would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
to
verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from Kas
)

I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place )
reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???

I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
some
changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2 step
leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
no
change to effect the misfire problem.

And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
just
no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??

So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
here
suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem


Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
A/E flat top pistons  +.040
Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
10/10 crank polished and balanced
Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
Duplex timing chain set-up
Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold


Stumpdified,
Bob T.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From tr6driver at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  4 21:23:31 2012
From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie)
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 23:23:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
In-Reply-To: <000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>
References: <8CF40B3A8DF17DC-18C0-3F89B@webmail-m047.sysops.aol.com>
	<000601cd72b5$3bf0db60$b3d29220$@com>
Message-ID: <6AAE981C-B19B-420B-8C9D-7DD2D9C1F3E4@yahoo.com>

Experienced this today with a tr6 engine startup.  Check your valve clearances
on 1 and 4.  Lack of compression = lack of firing.  We had valves too tight.
Took us 3-4 hours to figure it out...

Jamie Palmer


On Aug 4, 2012, at 10:51 PM, "Tim Murphy" <timmurph at fastbytes.com> wrote:

> Have you tried the old trick of spraying carb cleaner around the intake
> manifold and carb mounting on #1 and #4 to see if you somehow have a
massive
> intake leak causing a very lean mixture and the misfire?
>
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of robertten1 at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 6:55 PM
> To: fot at autox.team.net; net at newenglandtriumphs.org; nedyno at gmail.co
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfifre Part 2
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my problem here.  I'll be heading to the
dyno
> shop on Friday next, hopefully to get baseline and a/f readings.  This in
> hopes of solving the misfire problem a a little break-in time on the new
> engine.
>
> To recap :  Removing the #1 or #4 plug wire there is no difference in
engine
> note.  If remove the #2 or #3 plug wire the engine stumbles.  I've checked
> the
> timing, tried rotating 180 degs ( will not start ).  Swapped the plugs
> around
> and the same 2 cylinders misfire.  Swapped the plug wires around and no
> change
> in results.  Checked and cleaned all the engine grounds and the connections
> at
> the battery.
>
> I have swapped out complete ignition systems, one is Mallory Dual Point the
> other is a PerTronix conversion in the factory Delco Distributor.  The
> PerTronix is all new parts the module, cap rotor, wires and coil.  The
> Mallory
> is as was before the engine rebuild.  There was no noticeable change in my
> problem with either system.  Re-checked all connectors and connections for
> both complete ignition systems found nothing faulty.
>
> I have done a compression test and all cylinders seem OK.  I did a
leak-down
> test and nothing stood out there either.  I had hoped If there was a
problem
> I
> would get some direction in one of these tests.  Next I removed the valve
> cover brought the crank to top dead center, removed the plug to #1 cylinder
> to
> verify and checked the lifters for #1 - both are loose ( suggestion from
Kas
> )
>
> I re-torqued the head, checked the valve clearances ( nothing out of place
)
> reassembled.  Then changed from Platinum plugs to NGK V-Groove plugs and
> started the engine.  Still a misfire at #1 and #4 ???
>
> I have checked the Weber carb, knowing it will need some tuning as I made
> some
> changes to the engine during the rebuild.  The biggest is a custom cam from
> Rick Cline.  I found I need to lean the Idle Jets as both Idle adjustment
> screws could turned in all the way without changing the idle note.  A 2
step
> leaner jet did result in backing these screws out almost 1 full turn.  But
> no
> change to effect the misfire problem.
>
> And yes, in all kinds of testing there is spark going to #1 and #4 plugs
> just
> no change in engine note. A couple good zaps made me feel wide awake
> performing those tests,   Hmmmm ??
>
> So I am going to order another rotor for the Mallory dizzy ( at some one
> here
> suggestion ) as I grasp at straws for a solution to this misfire problem
>
>
> Engine - .'73 1500 Spit  Bored .040" over  (recessed blocked)
> A/E flat top pistons  +.040
> Head -  Milled .125" ( big valve head )
> 6.5 to 1  roller rockers   Race Push Rods
> 10/10 crank polished and balanced
> Lightened flywheel  @ 12 #
> Duplex timing chain set-up
> Cline Cam  lightened and drilled lifters
> Tri Y  Headers   2" exhaust
> Single Weber 45 DCOE 13 carb   Cannon Manifold
>
>
> Stumpdified,
> Bob T.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Aug  6 17:27:23 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
Message-ID: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing


From cartravel at pobox.com  Mon Aug  6 17:52:20 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2012 18:52:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
Message-ID: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>

This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had 
a problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back 
in the 1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many 
ignition configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During 
recent rebuild, I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot 
spots and of course all the carbon has been removed, but the problem 
still persists.  There is additional tuning I should and will do such as 
carb rebuilds, carb needles, timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect 
this problem will continue.  The solution for later Triumphs and other 
British cars was the anti run-on valve.  It appears that the simplest 
retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 valve.  Basically, the 
valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods the manifold with 
air making the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where do I find 
one of these valves?  They do not appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
Larry


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Aug  6 20:26:36 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 19:26:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1344306396.63242.YahooMailClassic@web181401.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Jason: Helpful hint for the future...sorry it comes too late. I use a hole saw
and drill the rubber and center tube out. Then I use a hacksaw blade (you
could use an air driven hacksaw) and cut through the outer tube. One cut is
usually enough; sometimes it takes two cuts. That allows the tube to
collaspe.  To put the new ones in, I bevel the leading edge and smear
anti-seize on the the metal outside. A press makes these go right in.
Again, sorry you had a less then joyful day.
-Ed- 

--- On Mon, 8/6/12, Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com> wrote:


From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, August 6, 2012, 6:27 PM


Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Aug  6 20:30:28 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 02:30:28 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>

In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would cure
the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:52:20 -0500
> From: cartravel at pobox.com
> To: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
>
> This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had
> a problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back
> in the 1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many
> ignition configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During
> recent rebuild, I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot
> spots and of course all the carbon has been removed, but the problem
> still persists.  There is additional tuning I should and will do such as
> carb rebuilds, carb needles, timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect
> this problem will continue.  The solution for later Triumphs and other
> British cars was the anti run-on valve.  It appears that the simplest
> retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 valve.  Basically, the
> valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods the manifold with
> air making the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where do I find
> one of these valves?  They do not appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Mon Aug  6 20:30:34 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 19:30:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <1344306634.24240.YahooMailClassic@web181406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Larry: Send me your address and one will miraculously appear in your mail box
from the run-on gods.
Life is good:O)
-ED-

--- On Mon, 8/6/12, Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com> wrote:


From: Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com>
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, August 6, 2012, 6:52 PM


This question is not of interest to racers, but my street TR250 has had a
problem with run-on or dieseling since leaded premium went away back in the
1980s.  This has continued through several carb rebuilds, many ignition
configuration changes and recently an engine rebuild.  During recent rebuild,
I tried to remove any sharp areas that might create hot spots and of course
all the carbon has been removed, but the problem still persists.  There is
additional tuning I should and will do such as carb rebuilds, carb needles,
timing advance curves, etc., but I suspect this problem will continue.  The
solution for later Triumphs and other British cars was the anti run-on valve. 
It appears that the simplest retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535
valve.  Basically, the valve opens when the ignition is turned off and floods
the manifold with air making the mixture too weak to support combustion. 
Where do I find one of these valves?  They do not
 appear to be available except on ebay.uk.
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Aug  6 22:03:04 2012
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 21:03:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <1344312184.16300.YahooMailRC@web184804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

With my TR6 there is still a bit of run on even with the valve.  It doesn't
seem 
to be the end of the world to kill it with a combination of clutch
out brake 
in.  Jim




________________________________
From: Larry Young
<cartravel at pobox.com>
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, August 6, 2012 5:13:08
PM
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535

This question is not of interest
to racers, but my street TR250 has had a 
problem with run-on or dieseling
since leaded premium went away back in the 
1980s.  This has continued through
several carb rebuilds, many ignition 
configuration changes and recently an
engine rebuild.  During recent rebuild, I 
tried to remove any sharp areas
that might create hot spots and of course all 
the carbon has been removed,
but the problem still persists.  There is 
additional tuning I should and will
do such as carb rebuilds, carb needles, 
timing advance curves, etc., but I
suspect this problem will continue.  The 
solution for later Triumphs and
other British cars was the anti run-on valve.  
It appears that the simplest
retrofit would be to install a Rover/MG ADU9535 
valve.  Basically, the valve
opens when the ignition is turned off and floods 
the manifold with air making
the mixture too weak to support combustion.  Where 
do I find one of these
valves?  They do not appear to be available except on 
ebay.uk.
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug  7 00:00:43 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 06:00:43 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.141.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug  7 03:05:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 02:05:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <20120807060945.E279B2D0764@autox.team.net>
References: <CALCydYoHpoTe2UmNv0gws=WSZ608CL-B0vkqcpXwDFdsd8cK1Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<20120807060945.E279B2D0764@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <16e601cd747b$c3969ec0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which 
> slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. 

Something to watch for, though, not all new bearings are the same thickness
as the old ones.  I opened a pair of diff carrier bearings the other day
that were not only both different than the originals, but different from
each other!  

I've ordered another pair from a different source, supposedly Timken brand
this time, maybe they'll be better.  But last time I went through this, the
input bearing was different by roughly .030" and they were both Timkens.

-- Randall  


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Tue Aug  7 07:28:11 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 06:28:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <20120807060928.250F22D0748@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Chris:
I believe one of us is mistaken in what Jason was doing. I'm under the impression the he was replacing the mounting bushings on the rear of a Spit/GT6 pumpkin. I think you believe he was replacing the carrier bearings.
Either way, he's over the hump and it's well earned smiles now and something to talk about in the paddock on a Saturday night.
-Ed-

--- On Tue, 8/7/12, tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:


From: tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>, fot-bounces at autox.team.net, "triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2012, 1:00 AM


Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug  7 07:58:48 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 15:58:48 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential
In-Reply-To: <1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <20120807060928.250F22D0748@autox.team.net>
	<1344346091.3130.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002e01cd74a4$c5e4b0d0$51ae1270$@com>

I think you are right.

I was on the wrong path.

 

Von: EDWARD BARNARD [mailto:edwardbarnard at prodigy.net] 
Gesendet: Dienstag, 7. August 2012 15:28
An: Jason Ostrowski; triumph friends; tr4racing at googlemail.com
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential

 


Chris:

I believe one of us is mistaken in what Jason was doing. I'm under the
impression the he was replacing the mounting bushings on the rear of a
Spit/GT6 pumpkin. I think you believe he was replacing the carrier bearings.
Either way, he's over the hump and it's well earned smiles now and something
to talk about in the paddock on a Saturday night.

-Ed-


--- On Tue, 8/7/12, tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
wrote:


From: tr4racing at googlemail.com <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Damn Differential
To: "Jason Ostrowski" <jason at multivintage.com>, fot-bounces at autox.team.net,
"triumph friends" <fot at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2012, 1:00 AM

Head up!
You've made it.
Diff work is one of the unpleasant part with any car. Now the happy times
are back.
I hate these diff work too but made me dummy bearing which slip to the diff
without force and installing is a pleasure. If everything is right then the
final bearing are forced in place. 

Cheers 
Chris 
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Ostrowski <jason at multivintage.com
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=jason at multivintage.com> >
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot-bounces at autox.team.netDat
e> : Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:27:23 
To: triumph friends<fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Fot] Damn Differential

Well I think I reached a new high level of frustration in Triumphing Today.
Surely there are tools out there to make this a quick and easy job....but
yet again tools I don't have.
I have done a lot of hard and frustrating jobs on these cars over the years.
But the rear bushing removal and install on a Spit/GT6 diff.has to be one
of the most difficult tasks yet.
Blisters on my hands, 2 ruined hardened sockets, two stripped threaded
rods,no less than 8 heavy washers (2 hardened) destroyed, and two nuts
mangled.
And 1 Nut drenched in sweat with a pounding headache.

On the plus side, my fresh "home made" locked differential is done and will
go in the car tonight.
All this for a couple hours of track time at Road America this weekend.
Remind me again why it's so rewarding to be your own mechanic.
Perhaps I'm in the minority of idiots.
If you were going golfing, can you imagine telling your golfing buddies
that you had spent the night before a round of 18 holes....laying on the
floor of your garage floor covered in grease and sweat on the verge of
tears for more hours than you care to count....fixing your 9 iron?
Craziness.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net> 

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/> 

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_______________________________________________
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<http://us.mc1844.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fot at autox.team.net> 

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/> 

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From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  7 10:08:41 2012
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 09:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1344355721.27100.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web122202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

  http://spsp2.free.fr/foxnews.board.php?yahoo=gydjzix&lucky=84comxepamjrygomailzaselugo&lng=en


From cartravel at pobox.com  Tue Aug  7 11:37:28 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 12:37:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com>
	<SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <50215258.40100@pobox.com>

I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might 
get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still 
occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.  
I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and 
would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I 
was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it 
didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it 
requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The 
ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it 
could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll 
be glad to take it off your hands.
Larry

On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would 
> cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue Aug  7 12:22:59 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:22:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
In-Reply-To: <50215258.40100@pobox.com>
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com><SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
	<50215258.40100@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <660C1957BDA74575917FE17E6359005A@rileyPC>

the refusal to achieve a slower idle speed makes me suspect a vacuum leak.


art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Larry Young
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:37 PM
To: Kas Kastner
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535

I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might
get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still
occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.
I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and
would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I
was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it
didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it
requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The
ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it
could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll
be glad to take it off your hands.
Larry

On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would
> cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
No virus found in this message.
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From pcdelux at verizon.net  Tue Aug  7 14:30:19 2012
From: pcdelux at verizon.net (William Dewar)
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 16:30:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
References: <502058B4.5030606@pobox.com><SNT120-W513FD7CB23F6FA247A6CCADFCE0@phx.gbl>
	<50215258.40100@pobox.com> <660C1957BDA74575917FE17E6359005A@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <002e01cd74db$770b1fd0$2101a8c0@usera1aa7i3nf0>

The later cars that used the anti-runon had carbs that were plumbed
differently than the 68-71 versions. They also had a different oil pressure
switch to momentarily activate anti-run on shut down. I do not have a TR6
manual handy but looking at the emissions and wiring diagram on a 75-76 TR6
should explain it.I don't think it was designed just to cause a large vacuum
leak but to mess with the vacuum-pressure balance in the carb behind the
throttle plate. You probably can make it work on an earlier carb setup, just
not exactly as designed for the later one. They also had much lower
compression which probably aided shut down. It would be interesting to hear
if any one on the list has made it work on an early car.

Bill DeWar
NJTA
----- Original Message -----
From: <riverside at southslope.net>
To: "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com>; "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535


> the refusal to achieve a slower idle speed makes me suspect a vacuum leak.
>
>
> art de armond
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Young
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:37 PM
> To: Kas Kastner
> Cc: fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Anti Runon Valve ADU9535
>
> I've got the idle as low as it will go at about 1,000.  I think I might
> get it down to 800 with some carb work, but in the past it would still
> occur at 800.  I have removed the vacuum retard, which helps the idle.
> I've been letting the clutch out to kill it for the past 25 years and
> would like to fix the problem rather than continue to work around it. I
> was hoping a carbon free engine after the rebuild would cure it, but it
> didn't.  I don't fully understand the later TR6 setup, but I've heard it
> requires special carbs and was tied into the charcoal canister.  The
> ADU9535 seems like the simplest way to go for a retro fit, since it
> could be tied into the brake booster line.  Ed, if you've got one I'll
> be glad to take it off your hands.
> Larry
>
> On 8/6/2012 9:30 PM, Kas Kastner wrote:
> > In the olden days it was advised to reduce the idle rpm and that would
> > cure the problem, no valve, just a screw driver.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Thu Aug  9 14:10:55 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 16:10:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] for sale-R&P set/TR pistons
Message-ID: <007001cd766b$158c0ad0$40a42070$@rr.com>

WTS:

I have a new in the box ring and pinion gear set I am selling to finance
another small project. This is a 3.7:1 ratio and is new in the box. I would
like to sell it for $450.

This fits the TR-2 through the TR-6.

 

 

Also a set of 4 new in the box AE Hepolite pistons for TR3-4 in a 86MM+.020"
size. These are in the original box and are complete with rings; pins and
clips. Part number is 12655 or later was 113560. I am asking $240 for these,
again to fund another British based project. It's an addiction!

 

Please contact me privately if you are interested or have questions. 

 

Russ Moore

Spitfire #49


From pvucinic at netspace.net.au  Mon Aug 13 01:12:25 2012
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 17:12:25 +1000
Subject: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>

Listers,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for TR6 Fiberglass panels? I think we had a
discussion about 'quality' suppliers some time ago? But can't recall the
general consensus or outcome.

 

Many thanks

 

Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4

_______________________________________________

 <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> fot at autox.team.net

 

 <http://www.fot-racing.com> http://www.fot-racing.com

 

Donate:  <http://www.team.net/donate.html> http://www.team.net/donate.html

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 13 01:46:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 09:46:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAACxbEgK3O79MiqnuYcYqj9HCgAAAEAAAAHJD1k2p81tLhbtNqz/KB9EBAAAAAA==@netspace.net.au>
Message-ID: <001301cd7927$b8ec45f0$2ac4d1d0$@com>

I buy my parts here:

http://www.honeybournemouldings.co.uk/default.htm

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Peter Vucinic
Gesendet: Montag, 13. August 2012 09:12
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Fiberglass Panels

Listers,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for TR6 Fiberglass panels? I think we had a
discussion about 'quality' suppliers some time ago? But can't recall the
general consensus or outcome.



Many thanks



Kind Regards

Peter Vucinic

TR-4

_______________________________________________

 <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> fot at autox.team.net



 <http://www.fot-racing.com> http://www.fot-racing.com



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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon Aug 13 10:15:36 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 12:15:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] thinning the herd. so to speak
Message-ID: <004201cd796e$df83e960$9e8bbc20$@rr.com>

I have a 40 year old stash (hoarded!) of TR-3 and TR-4/4A/250 sheetmetal. I
will cut some loose to fund the next British restoration "adventure" if
anyone is interested. Realize it is NOT economically feasible to ship a
TR-250 hood to Oregon....... Possibly could relay panels through other
racers, exchanging at events.

 

Please contact me off line if interested or with questions and let me know
what you're looking for.

 

TR-3/4 pistons are sold, taking offers on the New in Box ring and pinion
gear set for TR2-6.

 

Russ Moore


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Mon Aug 13 13:57:35 2012
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 15:57:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW: thinning the herd. so to speak
Message-ID: <009401cd798d$e28662e0$a79328a0$@rr.com>

Sorry, I forgot to mention I am located in upstate NY (14817). This is about
28 miles from Watkins Glen where there is a vintage race in September (SVRA)
and also one in October (VRG).

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Spitfire Racing
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 12:16 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] thinning the herd. so to speak

I have a 40 year old stash (hoarded!) of TR-3 and TR-4/4A/250 sheetmetal. I
will cut some loose to fund the next British restoration "adventure" if
anyone is interested. Realize it is NOT economically feasible to ship a
TR-250 hood to Oregon....... Possibly could relay panels through other
racers, exchanging at events.

 

Please contact me off line if interested or with questions and let me know
what you're looking for.

 

TR-3/4 pistons are sold, taking offers on the New in Box ring and pinion
gear set for TR2-6.

 

Russ Moore
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From craigl at leinickegroup.com  Tue Aug 14 08:24:23 2012
From: craigl at leinickegroup.com (Craig Leinicke)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 09:24:23 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Parts For Sale
Message-ID: <CC4FC9C7.E307%craigl@leinickegroup.com>

TR6 Parts for Sale

1972 TR6 roller fitted with 4 fiberglass fenders, fiberglass rockers, and
fiberglass rear cowl, still in gel coat. Highly modified rear suspension.
Hubs modified for oversize rotors and calipers. $500 Clear title in hand.

TR6 differential center section set up with Detroit Locker limited slip and
4.1 gear set. Condition is probably NOS. $1000. (plus shipping)

Craig Leinicke
Flashback Racing
(636) 236-8452
Ellisville, MO


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 11:03:48 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 13:03:48 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
Message-ID: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>

Amici,

Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad


From riverside at southslope.net  Tue Aug 14 13:44:57 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 14:44:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
In-Reply-To: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>
References: <vuc6gah5d8xpkts7kj1nn7f8.1344963828649@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <800E7E463EE94FABB9A18BEE1FDD9922@rileyPC>

I think that date is the ChumpCar race at Iowa Speedway in Newton.
I will be there as crew for Team Quadrifoolio.

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: Doug Mitchell
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:03 PM
To: Fot
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS

Amici,

Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5197 - Release Date: 08/13/12 


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug 14 14:15:21 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:15:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
Message-ID: <3eokmk7s4a5a43kxsjwy6c9b.1344975321526@email.android.com>

There are races at both locations. According to the ChumpCar site, the race at Iowa is a 24 hour one, while the race at MIS is a double 7.

Cheers,

Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

riverside at southslope.net wrote:

>I think that date is the ChumpCar race at Iowa Speedway in Newton.
>I will be there as crew for Team Quadrifoolio.
>
>art de armond
>
>-----Original Message----- 
>From: Doug Mitchell
>Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:03 PM
>To: Fot
>Subject: [Fot] ChumpCar Race @ MIS
>
>Amici,
>
>Anybody running the ChumpCar race at MIS on August 25-26?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Doug Mitchell
>dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
>
>Sent from my ASUS Pad
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net
>
>
>
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5197 - Release Date: 08/13/12 


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Aug 14 14:52:10 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:52:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] clutch discs and John Clancy's DVD's
Message-ID: <502ABA7A.90405@bright.net>

FOT list.  Last week or or so there was some discussion of competition 
and high performance clutch discs. We have sold these for several 
years.  Here is a list of clutch discs, lining and styles.

Solid center (no take up springs) - 8 1/2" diameter - full circle 
organic lining - $135*
Solid center paddle style - 4 paddle (6 1/2") - $100; 6 paddle (8 1/2") 
- $135*
Spring center clutch with thicker metal web to hold friction material 
(metal holding friction material won't tear out) and HD take up springs 
- $150  (good high perf. street or autocross)
* available with 1 1/4" 10 spline center or 1" 23 spline for CR gear 
set. Add $40 for Kevlar lining.

We stock the entire range, including California Air, of John Clancy's 
DVD's. These are listed on our website.  John and his wife used our 
booth at The Mitty a central place to display (and sell) John's range of 
DVD's. Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 15 07:09:53 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:09:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] SCCA RUNOFFS SEPTEMBER 2012 SAM HALKIAS and ???
Message-ID: <8CF48FE65098631-159C-1EF76@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com>

FOT:

I know that SAM HALKIAS   TR6    will be running on Saturday of the RUNOFFS.

Anyone else running?

Brendan Alexander approached me about going for at least Saturday.  How could
I say no?

Anyone else going?


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 15 07:33:19 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:33:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
Message-ID: <mailman.142.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?

Cheers, Tony Drews


From BillDentin at aol.com  Wed Aug 15 07:53:20 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:53:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
Message-ID: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/15/2012 8:36:54 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tony at tonydrews.com writes:


> Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?
> 

The Beady Eye Vintage Triumph Racing Team will be there (in all its glory). 
 I'll be in my TR3, Bob Wismer will race his TR4.

Bill Dentinger


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Aug 15 17:31:02 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 18:31:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Grattan anyone
In-Reply-To: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>
References: <5c57a.3dcfa627.3d5d03d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYr3rAmK4oQDhdDKp2C7BqDNeT-+Rz3-qaNEZxEPWSrfMg@mail.gmail.com>

IT KILLS ME TO NOT BE RACING AT MY FAVORITE TRACK... GRATTAN.
I'm done for the season.... out of money and out of TRANSMISSIONS. got the
family to think about and all.
I can't miss it though.
I'll be there to support my buddies.
I'm coming to offer Triumph support, drink beer, and do some fishing.
See you there.... and don't hesitate to ask me to help with anything guys!
Friendly Ghost Racing.....At Your Service!

Jason.

On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:53 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 08/15/2012 8:36:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
> tony at tonydrews.com writes:
>
>
> > Amici, anyone going to Grattan this coming weekend?
> >
>
> The Beady Eye Vintage Triumph Racing Team will be there (in all its glory).
>  I'll be in my TR3, Bob Wismer will race his TR4.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Wed Aug 15 21:03:16 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 22:03:16 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Linkage Adjustment
Message-ID: <DBDC83EA-8634-40FD-9C7B-BB1816A2F1E2@aol.com>

Recently I have posted questions looking for solutions of obtaining full
throttle opening on my GT6 with a center pull cable accelerator arrangement
(MKIII).  So far, no joy.  So . . .   I have a new question.  I have obtained
full throttle opening with my '72 TR6 by adjusting the linkage from the cross
shaft to the carbs by shortening the linkage rod from the cross shaft to the
bell crank (does this make sense?).  I now have full opening but the pedal is
way high.  Has anyone figured out how to lower the pedal by adjusting the
linkage from the bell crank to the carbs, or, do I just have to live with it?
TIA
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs


From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 15 22:57:29 2012
From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (Yahoo)
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 21:57:29 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Jeremy Foley Crash - Pikes Peak International Hill Climb
 2012
References: <6AD58084-4A47-4265-8FEA-2EC5FEB730EF@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EA3FC26C-3791-430D-ACC4-1C8B1531C78B@yahoo.com>

>From the Pikes Peak Hill Climb last weekend.  Hang on!

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: At <tysno1gal at yahoo.com>
> Date: August 14, 2012 6:12:36 PM PDT
> To: Ty Thompson <tylerpthompson at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Jeremy Foley Crash - Pikes Peak International Hill Climb 2012
>
> Check out this video on YouTube:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEUrEPPABbY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>
>
> Sent from my iPad


From robertten1 at aol.com  Sat Aug 18 21:02:09 2012
From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 23:02:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Misfire final chapter
Message-ID: <8CF4BCE285392BC-1684-A9665@webmail-d144.sysops.aol.com>

Amici,

I thank all who responded to request for help.  My problem has been solved
after a couple phone calls -  Thanks to Mr Cline and Mr. Lang.  To my
embarrassment I have to admit that this mechanic timed the cam incorrectly.
With a little education about cam lobes in relation to cylinders and the order
of suck,squish, bang and blow.  And a miss understanding of the note about the
cam timing on Mr Cline's cam, all has been corrected and the engine is firing
correctly.

Looking forward to September to get to drive my Spit in anger as my entry into
the autocross season comes late.  A couple hours on the chassis dyno has me
feeling comfortable to push my car in competition.

Cheers to all,
Bob T


From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 13:06:18 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 13:06:18 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Triumph factory race cars?
Message-ID: <8AED25EC-29C4-4E1F-A66B-A104E349CF34@comcast.net>

List,

Did Triumph factory race cars have a VIN? Did they have a title?

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 19 15:06:34 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 16:06:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <mailman.143.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is 
for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd 
be willing to part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower 
trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Aug 19 16:11:10 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 18:11:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>

I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
be willing to part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From emanteno at gmail.com  Sun Aug 19 16:37:35 2012
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 17:37:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20120819210551.AD7FA2D0223@autox.team.net>
	<8CF4C6EAC34AD29-D7C-AEC96@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>

250's use different vertical links than 4's.
On Aug 19, 2012 5:11 PM, "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
> Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> be willing to part with?
>
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/emanteno at gmail.com


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Aug 19 21:35:38 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 20:35:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The 4A, 250, and 6 should be the same, but they have different amount of
camber from the 2,3,4; a function of the angle between the threaded part of
the link and the eye for the balljoint. The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became sided, R/H and L/H,
and added 3 degrees camber.
-Ed-

--- On Sun, 8/19/12, Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
To: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 19, 2012, 5:37 PM


250's use different vertical links than 4's.
On Aug 19, 2012 5:11 PM, "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

> I have complete TR250 front suspension assemblies without springs.
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 4:08 pm
> Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> be willing to part with?
>
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/emanteno at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 19 22:06:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 21:06:16 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjsAh=ptquzEHMQMxAFGuqfLpo4pGmi2KHDj8TSSpRyMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<1345433738.36098.YahooMailClassic@web181405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>

> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became 
> sided, R/H and L/H,
> and added 3 degrees camber.

I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All but
very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball joint,
etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.

-- Randall  


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sun Aug 19 23:10:30 2012
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 23:10:30 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <mailman.144.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I thought the later trunnion added castor.
jim g

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 10:06 PM
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became 
> sided, R/H and L/H,
> and added 3 degrees camber.

I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All but
very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball joint,
etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 19 23:40:01 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 22:40:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <0E.9C.29711.9C8C1305@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
References: <008501cd7e89$25f5af90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<0E.9C.29711.9C8C1305@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <009801cd7e96$3ea57f40$0601a8c0@randall>

> I thought the later trunnion added castor.

Sorry, you're right, I meant castor.

-- Randall  


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 19 23:50:57 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 00:50:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820051840.CE9C02D02CD@autox.team.net>
References: <20120820051840.CE9C02D02CD@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D080A0EE-C7D0-4E7D-84A5-7FE3373BD6F7@sbcglobal.net>

Yes - 3 degrees of castor was added to the TR4 with right and left specific
trunnions and the asymmetrical upper control arms.
The vertical link and trunnion have no effect on camber.

On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:10 AM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> I thought the later trunnion added castor.
> jim g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 10:06 PM
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>> The 2,3, and 4 shared the same
>> verticals, which were not sided. As of the 4A they became
>> sided, R/H and L/H,
>> and added 3 degrees camber.
>
> I agree, except that the camber was added before the other changes.  All
but
> very early TR4 used the same VL as the earlier TRs, but had a different
> trunnion and other changes (steering levers, upper A-arms, upper ball
joint,
> etc) to add the 3 degrees of camber.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 01:32:15 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:32:15 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>

Tony,

you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
replaced to do that.

I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
I can send photos if you like.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Tony Drews
Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
part with?

I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.

Thanks in advance.

Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Mon Aug 20 02:29:28 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 01:29:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

My '71 GT6 race car continues to vex...

After having the engine blow, and then be rebuilt, it broke a rocker arm at
Willow Springs in practice. Bent the #1 valve a bit too.  Took the head off
and had a pretty reputable cylinder head rebuilder go through it. He found
that the engine builder had not installed the set screw that keeps the rocker
shaft in line with the oil feed hole in the upright. Hence, under-lubrication
to the forward end of the rocker shaft. He replaced one valve, all the
rockers, and the rocker shaft which was scored. Surfaced the head too.  We
installed the head last week, Torqued gradually in sequence @ 15 lb ft, then
25, then 45.  Adjusted the valves, and decided to do a compression rest just
for fun. (used a Payen head gasket)

What we found was interesting, but not good: #1 cylinder @ 170; #2 @ 120;
#4,4,5 @ 140; #6 @ 170 psi. this on a rebuilt engine with two hours run time
before failure...  The compression test was done without the intake on the
car, so it hasn't run yet. The cylinder head guru said to run it, and then
recheck. We'll also do a leakdown test then.

Any speculation? First thing that comes to mind is a not flat head or block,
of course. Then rings?

Ed


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 07:02:28 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:02:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
References: <5C8E4E0E-C90F-4836-AE1D-019C2C697359@me.com>
Message-ID: <AC14F08F-5EFE-4BA1-B5F2-80EFAEC09F54@me.com>

I had a similar experience with my GT6 a few years ago (though a different initial cause). Could be gasket or rings or a warped head, but for my car it was leaky valves that needed to be recut.  I had lapped them and my machinist had thought they looked fine too the first time when we resurfaced the head.   My first advice is to get a leakdown tester from Summit Racing or somewhere.  Pretty cheap and a great diagnostic device.  Especially with the manifolds off, you can readily identify the source of the leaks by the air whistling!  You'll probably have to run the test without your rocker assembly on, depending on how radical a cam you have.  The compression tester tells you that you have a problem - the leak down tester tells you where.

Payen gaskets are trouble free for me.  I'm guessing you are using stock head studs - with ARP if memory serves I'm torquing to 65 or 70 lbs.


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 08:22:40 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:22:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.145.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a
larger diameter section that screws into the Trunnion?

Tony

At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Tony,
>
>you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
>rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>replaced to do that.
>
>I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>I can send photos if you like.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>An: fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
>TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
>part with?
>
>I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
>at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Tony Drews


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 08:40:52 2012
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:40:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4676@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <28183E35-1CC7-4E89-8E0E-2EF1E24E141B@aol.com>

Not relevant to your question, but I wouldn't be to quick to conclude somebody
just didn't put that screw in - unless you've already searched the oil pan for
it - I have found that screw on a magnetic oil pan drain plug

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2012, at 4:29 AM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> He found
> that the engine builder had not installed the set screw that keeps the
rocker
> shaft in line with the oil feed hole in the upright.


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 08:48:26 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:48:26 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>

Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
that screws into the Trunnion?

Tony

At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Tony,
>
>you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>replaced to do that.
>
>I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>I can send photos if you like.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>Auftrag von Tony Drews
>Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>An: fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>willing to part with?
>
>I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Tony Drews


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 08:57:09 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:57:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.146.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
>apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
> >willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 09:01:36 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:01:36 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>

Everything is the same.
You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come with
the installation set.
If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.

I send photos.

Cheers
Chris


-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
> >to replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> >be willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:02:50 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>

I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you could 
modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, you'd be way ahead 
of the game.
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
>
> Tony
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front suspension
>>apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>>that screws into the Trunnion?
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>> >Tony,
>> >
>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>> >replaced to do that.
>> >
>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>> >I can send photos if you like.
>> >
>> >Cheers
>> >Chris
>> >
>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>> >
>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>> >willing to part with?
>> >
>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it 
>> >happens.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:06:10 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:06:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>
Message-ID: <240DD26FDB8F4C598FCB3194C49E08F9@Charly>

Depends on what you have now.  In box are later TR4 upper a-arms.




TR2-4 Front Suspension


Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Everything is the same.
> You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come 
> with
> the installation set.
> If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
> trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
> Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.
>
> I send photos.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
> there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
> stock
> lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
> loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
> make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
> directly to me.
>
> Tony
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>> >Tony,
>> >
>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
>> >to replaced to do that.
>> >
>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>> >I can send photos if you like.
>> >
>> >Cheers
>> >Chris
>> >
>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>> >
>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
>> >be willing to part with?
>> >
>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
> happens.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance.
>> >
>> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of TRI-022.gif]


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 09:08:40 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:08:40 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>

One thing:
The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
And the camber gain is increased.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.

If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
directly to me.

Tony

At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>
>Tony
>
>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
> >to replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
> >be willing to part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:15:43 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:15:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001b01cd7ee4$b61e1340$225a39c0$@com>
	<240DD26FDB8F4C598FCB3194C49E08F9@Charly>
Message-ID: <1191AECDACD5447388E3D1655254BD57@Charly>

One more thing, the Jaguar XJ6 ball joints are the same except they are 
narrower, which allows you to shim them for more or less castor.
Charly Mitchel
From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; "'Tony Drews'" 
<tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Depends on what you have now.  In box are later TR4 upper a-arms.
>
>
>
>
> TR2-4 Front Suspension
>
>
> Charly Mitchel
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
> To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony at tonydrews.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>> Everything is the same.
>> You have to ream out the A-arm bushings to fit these sleeves that come
>> with
>> the installation set.
>> If you use the stock A-arms you also need a longer screw for mounting the
>> trunnion as the TR6 screw is too short.
>> Good is that you can take stronger material for this bolt.
>>
>> I send photos.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>> Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>> there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the
>> stock
>> lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the 
>> A-Arms
>> loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they 
>> won't
>> make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>> directly to me.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
>>>suspension apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>Chris
>>>
>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter
>>>section that screws into the Trunnion?
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> >Tony,
>>> >
>>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts
>>> >to replaced to do that.
>>> >
>>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>>> >I can send photos if you like.
>>> >
>>> >Cheers
>>> >Chris
>>> >
>>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> >Im Auftrag von Tony Drews
>>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>> >
>>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd
>>> >be willing to part with?
>>> >
>>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
>> happens.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks in advance.
>>> >
>>> >Tony Drews
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
> TRI-022.gif]
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 09:33:57 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:33:57 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.147.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
is different for Left Hand side of the car and
Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different parts).

Why is the vertical link different from side to
side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.

Thanks, Tony

At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>One thing:
>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>And the camber gain is increased.
>
>Cheers
>Chris
>
>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>
>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>directly to me.
>
>Tony
<snip>


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 09:41:22 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:41:22 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net><003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com><50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com><50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com><001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>

My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The trunnion 
has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them the wheel 
would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R handed and can 
only be assembled as a set L&R.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
> parts).
>
> Why is the vertical link different from side to
> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>
> Thanks, Tony
>
> At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>One thing:
>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>
>>Cheers
>>Chris
>>
>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
>>stock
>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>>directly to me.
>>
>>Tony
> <snip>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 09:52:14 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 10:52:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
Message-ID: <mailman.148.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.

OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A 
arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My 
car is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't 
sound like any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next 
race to get this done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct 
bolt on for the earlier car with the welded in lower frame 
pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the reaming and 
spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional camber gain 
- not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a positive.

Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...  :)

Tony

At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse 
>them the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are 
>also L&R handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>Charly
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different parts).
>>
>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>
>>Thanks, Tony
>>
>>At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>One thing:
>>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>>
>>>Cheers
>>>Chris
>>>
>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the stock
>>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the A-Arms
>>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>>
>>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they won't
>>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed
>>>directly to me.
>>>
>>>Tony
>><snip>
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: 
>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 20 10:17:20 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 09:17:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
Message-ID: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>

It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down. 
My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and 
removed the spacers and remained the same height.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>
> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A arms, 
> does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is low 
> enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any fun 
> at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.  It 
> sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car with 
> the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the 
> reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional 
> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a 
> positive.
>
> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... 
> :)
>
> Tony
>
> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The trunnion 
>>has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them the wheel 
>>would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R handed and 
>>can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
>>>parts).
>>>
>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>
>>>Thanks, Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:08 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>>>One thing:
>>>>The car is getting lower with the TR6 trunnion.
>>>>So maybe a spacer has to added to the spring.
>>>>And the camber gain is increased.
>>>>
>>>>Cheers
>>>>Chris
>>>>
>>>>-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>>>Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>>>Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:57
>>>>An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>>>Betreff: Re: AW: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper ball joint the same?  Are
>>>>there other changes besides using spacers between the Trunnion and the 
>>>>stock
>>>>lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the Trunnion without taking the 
>>>>A-Arms
>>>>loose from the spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>>>
>>>>If you could send me a few pictures, I'd appreciate it.  I know they 
>>>>won't
>>>>make it through the list, but I will get them if the message is 
>>>>addressed
>>>>directly to me.
>>>>
>>>>Tony
>>><snip>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>Unsubscribe: 
>>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Aug 20 10:38:49 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:38:49 +0200
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
Message-ID: <000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>

This is the last weekends race.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxJq6Lf2exk

Tactics was to save the car and doing a sprint at the last 20 min....which
resulted with a lead in our group.
1st overall - group Triumph Competition
1st in class

Cheers
Chris


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Mon Aug 20 11:01:03 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:01:03 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820142143.D97402D0325@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20120820170104.QYJAY.63258.root@cdptpa-web26-z02>

I have a complete TR250/TR6 front suspension on the TR3. Keep in mind the TR4A - TR6 upper fulcrum pivot pins are a different diameter from the TR3 - TR4. TR4A - TR6 is 5/8 (same as the lower fulcrum pivot pins) and the TR3 and TR4 are 1/2. 

If you want pictures now is a good time. No fender or wheel to obstruct the view.

Bob


---- Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote: 
> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a
> larger diameter section that screws into the Trunnion?
> 
> Tony
> 
> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >Tony,
> >
> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are more
> >rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >replaced to do that.
> >
> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >I can send photos if you like.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Chris
> >
> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is for a
> >TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be willing to
> >part with?
> >
> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower trunnion
> >at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >Tony Drews
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 13:38:49 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:38:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <137a4.129bdcb2.3d63ec49@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/19/2012 4:08:21 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tony at tonydrews.com writes:


> Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is 
> for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd 
> be willing to part with?
> 
> I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower 
> trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it happens.
> 
> 

Amici...

He does not exaggerate.  I know.  I was there (and as you might 
imagine...behind him.  Only the laundry knows how excited he got.

Truth be told, we can all be glad it happened at the beginning of Grattan's 
front straight...and not the end of it.  Grattan is an old drag strip...and 
Tony don't go slow.

Bill (Damdinger)


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 14:03:12 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:03:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
	<42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
Message-ID: <9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>

Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA rules?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 11:02 AM, "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
wrote:

> I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you could
modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, you'd be way ahead of
the game.
> Charly Mitchel
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
>> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
>> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
>> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
>> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
>> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
>>
>> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
>> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
>> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front
suspension
>>> apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
>>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
>>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
>>> Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
>>> that screws into the Trunnion?
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
>>> >Tony,
>>> >
>>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
>>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
>>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
>>> >replaced to do that.
>>> >
>>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
>>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
>>> >I can send photos if you like.
>>> >
>>> >Cheers
>>> >Chris
>>> >
>>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
>>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
>>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
>>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
>>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
>>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>> >
>>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
>>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
>>> >willing to part with?
>>> >
>>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
>>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when it
>happens.
>>> >
>>> >Thanks in advance.
>>> >
>>> >Tony Drews
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 14:13:48 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:13:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA 
> rules?
> 
> 

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an 
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.  
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's 
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint 
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a 
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge 
from the red and black to the blue and white.  

Bill Dentinger


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Aug 20 14:27:56 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:27:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
References: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.149.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 1906?"
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:13:48 
To: <jhhasty at gdhs.com>; <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA 
> rules?
> 
> 

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an 
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.  
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's 
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint 
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a 
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge 
from the red and black to the blue and white.  

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From riverside at southslope.net  Mon Aug 20 14:36:14 2012
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:36:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
References: <14c2b.f749e80.3d63f47b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EFC07B4C2B714089AD48EF7085113A3B@rileyPC>

regarding GCR and the relocation of suspension pick up points;   some 40 
years ago, after spending
some time with Bill Boemler and his wicked fast TR3 and observing a number 
of items that may
have not been "full compliance" with the GCR, I asked Bill how he ever got 
the thing thru tech inspection.

his reply:  Most of the inspectors are not real TR3 savvy and besides, the 
GCR coes not apply to
cars over 10 years old.

So, don't worry,  be happy!

art de armond

-----Original Message----- 
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 3:13 PM
To: jhhasty at gdhs.com ; charly at mitchelplumbing.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:04:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
jhhasty at gdhs.com writes:


> Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA
> rules?
>
>

I'm a big Tony Drews fan, and know his car well.  I don't think it has an
'ERA CORRECT' sticker for them to take away.  But I vote for his 'doing it'.
He's not doing it under the table, and I especially like the fact he's
using TRIUMPH TR parts.

I've been racing GRATTAN for twenty-seven years.  On Saturday in the Sprint
Race I had the fastest lap I've run there since 1996.  It was only a
1:45.9, but that's fast for me.

I'm considering an upgrade for Ole Blue.  I may change the bonnet badge
from the red and black to the blue and white.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net





-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5211 - Release Date: 08/20/12 


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 14:51:06 2012
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 16:51:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
Message-ID: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>

In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:28:01 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jason at multivintage.com writes:


> Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 
> 1906?"
> 
Jason...

When I started road racing over here in 1906 there were no rules.  I was 
the only racer.  Then this other guy started racing, and right away they 
needed rules.  Soon there were five or six guys racing and soon that dam rule 
book was nearly an inch thick.  

Incidentally, I can't remember for sure who it was, but at the Friday night 
Beady Eye wine and cheese party at Grattan someone was making some pretty 
solid points about what is hurting race series these days like Indy Car and 
so on.  He maintained one of the big reasons is they have made it impossible 
for any ingenuity.  In the old days people would develop whole new cars to 
compete, and the stands would be full of people watching the practice and 
time trials, not to mention come race day.  They all wanted to see the new 
stuff, the new cars, and how good they were or weren't.  The guy was making some 
really great points.  I wish I would not have had so much Pinot Grigio.  
I'd remember better and could share it with you.

Bill (Damdinger)

PS  Wait a minute.  Jason...you were there!  Oh, that's right.  You were 
drinking too.  Good cheese though.  Picante Provolone, Sharp White Cheddar, a 
soft brie, and back by popular demand...Mindoro Bleu.


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 15:14:18 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:14:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>
References: <1394f.30102b1e.3d63fd3a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <261996F0-1736-4BAC-B150-0D935D013357@gdhs.com>

You know Bill, this is why back in the 70's & 80's when I was in pro
motorcycle road racing I chose 250cc GP class  the only rules, other than
safety items, were displacement, weight, aspiration & fuel. Anything else was
up to you.


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 4:51 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 08/20/2012 3:28:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
jason at multivintage.com writes:
>
>
>> Is the change of the badge legal under "Rules For Guys Racing Since 1906?"
>
> Jason...
>
> When I started road racing over here in 1906 there were no rules.  I was the
only racer.  Then this other guy started racing, and right away they needed
rules.  Soon there were five or six guys racing and soon that dam rule book
was nearly an inch thick.
>
> Incidentally, I can't remember for sure who it was, but at the Friday night
Beady Eye wine and cheese party at Grattan someone was making some pretty
solid points about what is hurting race series these days like Indy Car and so
on.  He maintained one of the big reasons is they have made it impossible for
any ingenuity.  In the old days people would develop whole new cars to
compete, and the stands would be full of people watching the practice and time
trials, not to mention come race day.  They all wanted to see the new stuff,
the new cars, and how good they were or weren't.  The guy was making some
really great points.  I wish I would not have had so much Pinot Grigio.  I'd
remember better and could share it with you.
>
> Bill (Damdinger)
>
> PS  Wait a minute.  Jason...you were there!  Oh, that's right.  You were
drinking too.  Good cheese though.  Picante Provolone, Sharp White Cheddar, a
soft brie, and back by popular demand...Mindoro Bleu.


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 16:20:39 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
Message-ID: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>

Anybody know what it went for?  RM has not published results as yet.


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 16:51:39 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:51:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<20120820145556.9FA662D041C@autox.team.net>
	<42BB6D5DF3E14E509228C075AEFA9165@Charly>
	<9C32C986-5C41-4B4C-9233-6347B3008B27@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.150.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I could give a flying flip of the GCR issue if switching to the TR-4A 
/ TR-6 upright keeps me from a repeat of that ride.  The next time it 
may not end as well.  It's not like I'm vying for any prize money or 
fame and glory.  Looking at the broken off vertical link I'm amazed 
that something of that diameter can take the abuse I've given it.

We've made exceptions to the GCR for safety upgrades like the 
Southwick rear axle and Alloy front hubs.  I consider this to be 
right along those lines and if it works out like I think it may, I'd 
do a nice writeup on my website and encourage others to perform the 
same upgrade.

Frame attachment points will still be stock.

If I can confirm whether using the later A-arms will get me back to 
the same ride height (at least close to it), there should be very 
little difference in front suspension geometry.

I do appreciate the question even if I don't sound like it above.  :)

Thanks, Tony

At 03:03 PM 8/20/2012, John Hasty wrote:
>Is changing the suspension pick up points allowed under the 1972 SCCA rules?
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Aug 20, 2012, at 11:02 AM, "Charly Mitchel" 
><charly at mitchelplumbing.com> wrote:
>
> > I think you want to change the upper a-arms as well.  And if you 
> could modify the chassis to accept the lower a-arm attachment, 
> you'd be way ahead of the game.
> > Charly Mitchel
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> > To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 7:57 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >
> >
> >> That sounds like a good upgrade.  Is the upper
> >> ball joint the same?  Are there other changes
> >> besides using spacers between the Trunnion and
> >> the stock lower A-Arms?  Being able to remove the
> >> Trunnion without taking the A-Arms loose from the
> >> spring pan would be a good thing I've discovered.
> >>
> >> If you could send me a few pictures, I'd
> >> appreciate it.  I know they won't make it through
> >> the list, but I will get them if the message is addressed directly to me.
> >>
> >> Tony
> >>
> >> At 09:48 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >>> Yes, that was my reason for a change AND you can take the front 
> suspension
> >>> apart without taking the spring out....big advantage!
> >>>
> >>> Cheers
> >>> Chris
> >>>
> >>> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >>> Von: Tony Drews [mailto:tony at tonydrews.com]
> >>> Gesendet: Montag, 20. August 2012 16:23
> >>> An: MadMarx; fot at autox.team.net
> >>> Betreff: Re: AW: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >>>
> >>> Does the later TR-4a / TR-6 vertical link have a larger diameter section
> >>> that screws into the Trunnion?
> >>>
> >>> Tony
> >>>
> >>> At 02:32 AM 8/20/2012, MadMarx wrote:
> >>> >Tony,
> >>> >
> >>> >you better move on the later trunnion and link versions as they are
> >>> >more rugged than the older TR3/4 ones.
> >>> >I have installed a TR6 front suspension. There have to be some parts to
> >>> >replaced to do that.
> >>> >
> >>> >I used the TR6 trunnion but with TR4 wishbones.
> >>> >With this you need some spacers next to the trunnion to make it fit.
> >>> >I can send photos if you like.
> >>> >
> >>> >Cheers
> >>> >Chris
> >>> >
> >>> >-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> >>> >Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
> >>> >Auftrag von Tony Drews
> >>> >Gesendet: Sonntag, 19. August 2012 23:07
> >>> >An: fot at autox.team.net
> >>> >Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
> >>> >
> >>> >Are the new Vertical Links and Trunnions from Moss any good?  This is
> >>> >for a TR-4.  If not, anyone got a decent set of original ones they'd be
> >>> >willing to part with?
> >>> >
> >>> >I broke a right front vertical link where it attaches to the lower
> >>> >trunnion at Grattan this weekend.  That's kinda thrilling when 
> it >happens.
> >>> >
> >>> >Thanks in advance.
> >>> >
> >>> >Tony Drews
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 20 17:06:56 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:06:56 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
Message-ID: <mailman.151.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end 
of the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the 
trunnion - at least partially.

Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved 
up on the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone 
confirm / deny this?

It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - 
both upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.

Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may help:
On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line 
of spindle
 From center line of spindle to spring pan

That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup 
would lower the car.

Tony

At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets 
>down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower 
>a-arms and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>Charly
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>
>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower 
>>A arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later 
>>trunnions?  My car is low enough already, and messing with spring 
>>spacers doesn't sound like any fun at all.  I've got two weekends 
>>before the next race to get this done.  It sounds like the later 
>>A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car with the welded in 
>>lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for the reaming 
>>and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional 
>>camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a positive.
>>
>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... :)
>>
>>Tony
>>
>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to 
>>>reverse them the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on 
>>>them are also L&R handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>Charly
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are 
>>>>different parts).
>>>>
>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks, Tony
<snip>


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Mon Aug 20 17:25:19 2012
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:25:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup
Message-ID: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>

Gurus, I need some help with my Webers.  I have a matched pair of 151s 
with the following configuration: 55F8 idle jets, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns 
on the idle mixture screws, idles nicely at 1K RPM with ~ 1/2 turn on 
the idle speed screw.  Accelerator pump jets are 40s, the pump exhaust 
valve hole soldered shut (the ball valve still works).  Main jets ranged 
from 150 to 120, with various combinations of air bleeds from 150 to 
190.  The plastic float levels have been set to 14.5 and 22mm, to reduce 
fuel in the well.  The problem is that above ~2K RPM the AFR drops to 
high 10, low 11, so of course the engine runs like crap.  One more bit 
of info: fully closed the throttle plates are mid-way in the first 
progression hole.  One Weber parts distributor said that was correct for 
151s, another said that the carbs must be binding because the 
progression holes should be clear at fully closed throttle.  Hmmm.  The 
throttles have no binding that I can feel (linkage disconnected).

I took a set of main jets and filled the fuel hole with JB Weld, 
thinking I'd start really small and work up.  As a baseline test I made 
a run with the hole still closed and the AFR was still ~11.5.  Ah ha!  
That tells me that it's not the main circuit which is the problem but 
rather the accelerator pump circuit.  I noticed that at 2100-2200 RPM a 
ball of fuel forms on the jet, then drops into the venturi; that seems 
wrong to me, but I've not found any info in a myriad of Weber books on 
what might be wrong in the accelerator circuit .

Falling back on my Army career, I'm tempted to implement my mantra that 
"there's no problem that judicially placed high explosive can't solve".  
Before I start shopping for C4, anyone have any ideas?  Any and all 
advice gratefully accepted.

Tnx!

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Mon Aug 20 17:46:45 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:46:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
Message-ID: <48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>

Chris.    Great as always.  For all of us on the east coast of USA,  SVRA has
apparently  been sold to someone inTexas.  Anyone have anymore info??

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:38 PM, "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> This is the last weekends race.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxJq6Lf2exk
>
> Tactics was to save the car and doing a sprint at the last 20 min....which
> resulted with a lead in our group.
> 1st overall - group Triumph Competition
> 1st in class
>
> Cheers
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhhasty at gdhs.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Mon Aug 20 18:05:34 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 19:05:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 1H race at Zolder/NL
In-Reply-To: <48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<000a01cd7ef2$480c3f40$d824bdc0$@com>
	<48736916-F368-4EFE-B172-1C333419115E@gdhs.com>
Message-ID: <36E6C490-1F55-40BE-B853-ADAB70B5B5E1@gmail.com>

I read that it was sold to Tony Parella, who has been racing his gorgeous
black 1958 Corvette in CVAR (Group 4, the Corinthian preservation class for
pre-1962 cars) for a couple of years and now is also racing a newer car in
Group 1 with the other later Corvettes and Pony cars.  He's apparently a
Corvette guy through and through (I'm told he has "a few"). You can look up
his company, The Parella Group, on the Internet.  He's a nice guy, trying to
do racing right, who has overcome some adversity in life.  His profile, on his
company website:

http://parellagroup.com/about-tony-parella.php

I also run in Group 4, and fortunately for me, in the rain, he's toast.
Unfortunately, it rarely rains here.

Duncan Charlton
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red

On Aug 20, 2012, at 6:46 PM, John Hasty wrote:

> For all of us on the east coast of USA,  SVRA has apparently  been sold to
someone inTexas.  Anyone have anymore info??


From walt at hot-tr6.com  Mon Aug 20 18:31:44 2012
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:31:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup
In-Reply-To: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>
References: <5032C75F.4040807@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <001501cd7f34$57fce1b0$07f6a510$@hot-tr6.com>

My TR6 racecar with triple Weber 40 DCOEs runs well with the following
setup. I am running at 12:1 compression, lots of porting and bigger valves.
A very strong camshaft but not full race. 
Also, I am at 5,500 feet above sea level.

Main Jets		130
Air			200
Emulsion Tube		F7
Idle jets		55F9
Acel pump Jet		40
Bleed off set to		Zero
Idle mix screws set to two turns

Walt Hollowell
Albuquerque, New Mexico

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of J.C. Hassall
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 5:25 PM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] need help w/40 DCOE 151 carb setup

Gurus, I need some help with my Webers.  I have a matched pair of 151s with
the following configuration: 55F8 idle jets, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns on the
idle mixture screws, idles nicely at 1K RPM with ~ 1/2 turn on the idle
speed screw.  Accelerator pump jets are 40s, the pump exhaust valve hole
soldered shut (the ball valve still works).  Main jets ranged from 150 to
120, with various combinations of air bleeds from 150 to 190.  The plastic
float levels have been set to 14.5 and 22mm, to reduce fuel in the well.
The problem is that above ~2K RPM the AFR drops to high 10, low 11, so of
course the engine runs like crap.  One more bit of info: fully closed the
throttle plates are mid-way in the first progression hole.  One Weber parts
distributor said that was correct for 151s, another said that the carbs must
be binding because the progression holes should be clear at fully closed
throttle.  Hmmm.  The throttles have no binding that I can feel (linkage
disconnected).

I took a set of main jets and filled the fuel hole with JB Weld, thinking
I'd start really small and work up.  As a baseline test I made a run with
the hole still closed and the AFR was still ~11.5.  Ah ha!  
That tells me that it's not the main circuit which is the problem but rather
the accelerator pump circuit.  I noticed that at 2100-2200 RPM a ball of
fuel forms on the jet, then drops into the venturi; that seems wrong to me,
but I've not found any info in a myriad of Weber books on what might be
wrong in the accelerator circuit .

Falling back on my Army career, I'm tempted to implement my mantra that
"there's no problem that judicially placed high explosive can't solve".  
Before I start shopping for C4, anyone have any ideas?  Any and all advice
gratefully accepted.

Tnx!

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/walt at hot-tr6.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 19:02:58 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:02:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
Message-ID: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>

I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes.  The parking brake
was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks.  Upon
reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself.  So. . . under the
car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive.  When I reached
end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was firm.  I
drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor.  It would pump
up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again.  I got the car home and
looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were obvious.
Nothing.  Master was full.  My experience tells me this is an internal master
cylinder leak.  The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other advice before
I jump on the internet and order a new one?
TIA


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 20 20:01:34 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 22:01:34 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>

I see on the Classic Motorsports web site forum it went for $55k. What a
shame. Somebody ended up with a fantastic car though. Hopefully it was a
FOT'r

Marty
----------------------------------------
> From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
>
> Anybody know what it went for? RM has not published results as yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/trmarty at hotmail.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 20:15:02 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:15:02 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
	<08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <53F87E0B-925D-4319-B848-B73DAB93577F@aol.com>

Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in?  I know there is a
core charge.  Just thinking about the exchange time.  Also, send it where?
Apple, White Post. . . ?

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Aug 20 20:16:31 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 22:16:31 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
	<BLU168-W269432C9E3DF50E2B5C9D9BAB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EB6061C0-2944-4C49-8592-E20F5A4B1EDC@me.com>

wow - I'm not going to call it a great deal if all you want to do is go vintage racing, but for a car with that history, and given what went into the restoration, it seems like a real bargain.

On Aug 20, 2012, at 10:01 PM, marty sukey wrote:


I see on the Classic Motorsports web site forum it went for $55k. What a shame. Somebody ended up with a fantastic car though. Hopefully it was a FOT'r

Marty
----------------------------------------
> From: sjanzen at me.com
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 18:20:39 -0400
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
> 
> Anybody know what it went for? RM has not published results as yet.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/trmarty at hotmail.com


From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon Aug 20 20:16:52 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:16:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] [TR] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
	<08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0285C5A4-664F-4BFC-A1E0-42C6500A1F44@aol.com>

BTW, I am using DOT5 and have been for years.

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Aug 21 04:57:02 2012
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 12:57:02 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
In-Reply-To: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
References: <B2F5A36F-6F98-4615-946B-7D14B00A9907@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301cd7f8b$b35d72c0$1a185840$@com>

There is a diaphragm spring behind the little piston in the master.
I most cases this spring gets tired and is not able to hold pressure.
You can overcome it with slamming on the brakes then it should hold
pressure.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Sam
Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2012 03:03
An: 6-pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] Brakes

I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes.  The parking brake
was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks.  Upon
reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself.  So. . . under
the car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive.  When I
reached end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was
firm.  I drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor.  It
would pump up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again.  I got the
car home and looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were
obvious.
Nothing.  Master was full.  My experience tells me this is an internal
master cylinder leak.  The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other
advice before I jump on the internet and order a new one?
TIA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 21 05:26:58 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (trmarty at hotmail.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:26:58 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>

Anybody know off the top of your head what the thread size is in the front of a, TR4 crank?

Marty 

Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"


From rfdeanes at gmail.com  Tue Aug 21 06:20:56 2012
From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 08:20:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <20120820230600.3DB952D03B2@autox.team.net>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230600.3DB952D03B2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAP9qD9N9nhhKY7+JiipQB2OT01UFx0GfM8qr_j2AV_XJ3O3+iw@mail.gmail.com>

the whole concept seems to me to be a good  idea as for me I like to keep
the car on the track and not in the grass if you are lucky to have some,
all our cars have changed alot to keep going strong an it is up to us to
keep them changing to stay ahead of the crowd ...and to pass goo ideas

On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 7:06 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>
>> It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets
>> down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms
>> and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>> Charly
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
>> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>> THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>> arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is
>>> low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any
>>> fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.
>>>  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car
>>> with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for
>>> the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional
>>> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a
>>> positive.
>>>
>>> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>> :)
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>
>>>> My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>> trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>> the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>> handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>> Charly
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>> parts).
>>>>>
>>>>> Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, Tony
>>>>>
>>>> <snip>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com>
>
>
>


-- 
rob deanes
TR Racer


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Aug 21 08:17:27 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:17:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
Message-ID: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>

BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness. 
I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always bent. 
If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult to 
check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the upper 
and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate it and 
go through the suspension range to check it.
Charly
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of 
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at 
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on 
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny 
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both 
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may 
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of 
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would 
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down. 
>>My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and 
>>removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" 
>><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A 
>>>arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car 
>>>is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like 
>>>any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this 
>>>done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the 
>>>earlier car with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate 
>>>the need for the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate 
>>>the additional camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else 
>>>would be a positive.
>>>
>>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along... 
>>>:)
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The 
>>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them 
>>>>the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R 
>>>>handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>Charly
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different 
>>>>>parts).
>>>>>
>>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks, Tony
> <snip>


From igofaster at att.net  Tue Aug 21 08:22:01 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:22:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey
In-Reply-To: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
References: <58C0AFF6-A985-4E35-B1F2-C456D06FA5CC@me.com>
Message-ID: <1345558921.42432.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Tim said it sold Saturday night, I haven't seen the sale price yet... I'm 
guessing a number in my head... I'm sure it's a record for a GT6 so.... if 
anyone gets the news I would love to know...
My friend George Curl (past prez of CVAR) said the price went up after I sat in 
the car again at the Mitty this year... must have been my golden bum.... 
ahh..... nevermind...
Bobby Whitehead




________________________________
From: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, August 20, 2012 5:23:12 PM
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT6 at Monterey

Anybody know what it went for?  RM has not published results as yet.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 21 08:31:57 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:31:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION
Message-ID: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

What a list!  The knowledge base here is one that helps improve the breed.

Parts are on their way to Tony and I am sure he will share the experience of
his conversion.

FOT GCRs??  We have none. That's between you and your tech inspector.

We have no rules....other than being nice to each other.

Joe A


From mpendy at dishmail.net  Tue Aug 21 08:42:42 2012
From: mpendy at dishmail.net (MARKANDGLENDA PENDERGRASS)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 07:42:42 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
Message-ID: <CACx-LfMkoF57hn2BeFGZeBaOAzdwer4wf5bZA_L18jd2Y4uKoA@mail.gmail.com>

Some vertical links were purposely bent on early cars to get neg. camber,
mine being one of those. The lower wishbones were also bent to some degree
and i to have TR6 componants, do i agree with this practice?........not
really.....and i do keep a real close eye on those componants.
Mark '63 TR4

On Tue, Aug 21, 2012 at 7:17 AM, Charly Mitchel
<charly at mitchelplumbing.com>wrote:

> BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness.
> I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always
> bent. If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult
> to check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the
> upper and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate
> it and go through the suspension range to check it.
>
> Charly
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>
>
>  Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
>> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
>> least partially.
>>
>> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up
>> on the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
>> this?
>>
>> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
>> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>>
>> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
>> help:
>> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
>> spindle
>> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>>
>> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup
>> would lower the car.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>
>>> It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets
>>> down. My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms
>>> and removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>> Charly
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>> To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx" <
>>> tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>
>>>
>>>  THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>>> arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car is
>>>> low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like any
>>>> fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this done.
>>>>  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the earlier car
>>>> with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate the need for
>>>> the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate the additional
>>>> camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else would be a
>>>> positive.
>>>>
>>>> Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>>> :)
>>>>
>>>> Tony
>>>>
>>>> At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>>> trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>>> the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>>> handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>> Charly
>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>> To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>  I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>> front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>> is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>> Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>> the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>> "handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>>> parts).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>> side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>> make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks, Tony
>>>>>>
>>>>> <snip>
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.*
> *net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net>


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Aug 21 08:42:47 2012
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (john hasty)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:42:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION
In-Reply-To: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF4DC0DA2A0FFD-179C-96943@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5176CF0F8DF74D088D24575C83DE548C@gdhs.local>

Well Now, guys/gals here's the answer. 


John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com
 
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
 
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Alexander
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 10:32 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR250/TR6 TRUNIONS AND VERTICAL LINKS.....CONVERSION

What a list!  The knowledge base here is one that helps improve the breed.

Parts are on their way to Tony and I am sure he will share the experience of
his conversion.

FOT GCRs??  We have none. That's between you and your tech inspector.

We have no rules....other than being nice to each other.

Joe A
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Aug 21 08:48:00 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 10:48:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
Message-ID: <8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>

 What Charly said, big problem area there.
The links should also be crack-checked periodically.
Also make sure that the trunnion isn't stressed fore/aft when the ball joint
is fitted.
Adjust ride height by spacing spring up or shim spring pan down to suit.
Glen





-----Original Message-----
From: Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>; Tony Drews
<tony at tonydrews.com>
Sent: Tue, Aug 21, 2012 10:24 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


BTW, when you do find some vertical links, check them for straightness.
I've got several bent ones, it appears the right side is almost always bent.
If they're bent, they'll bind up when rotated.  This can be difficult to
check if not on the car.  When I rebuild my suspension,I assemble the upper
and lower joints with the vertical without a spring  and then rotate it and
go through the suspension range to check it.
Charly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx"
<tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


> Do you have a sense of how much "offset" there is at the outboard end of
> the A-arms?  That would make up for the lowered pivot in the trunnion - at
> least partially.
>
> Also, someone mentioned to me that the stub axle may have been moved up on
> the TR-6 upright (which would lower the car).  Can anyone confirm / deny
> this?
>
> It would be awesome to have the parts side by side for comparison - both
> upright / vertical link and trunnion / lower A-arm combination.
>
> Alternately, a few measurements from a TR-4A / TR-6 front suspension may
> help:
> On vertical link from bottom of upper ball joint mount to center line of
> spindle
> From center line of spindle to spring pan
>
> That should give me a good feel for how much (if any) the TR-6 setup would
> lower the car.
>
> Tony
>
> At 11:17 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>It depends on which way you install the arms,  offsets up or offsets down.
>>My suspension had spacers to lower it and I flipped the lower a-arms and
>>removed the spacers and remained the same height.
>>Charly
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>; "MadMarx"
>><tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:52 AM
>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>
>>
>>>THAT's it.  Left hand thread / Right hand thread.  Thanks.
>>>
>>>OK, next question - If I switch from TR-4 to TR-4a (or TR-6) lower A
>>>arms, does that undo the lowering effect of the later trunnions?  My car
>>>is low enough already, and messing with spring spacers doesn't sound like
>>>any fun at all.  I've got two weekends before the next race to get this
>>>done.  It sounds like the later A-arms are a direct bolt on for the
>>>earlier car with the welded in lower frame pivots.  It may also eliminate
>>>the need for the reaming and spacers.  It would probably also eliminate
>>>the additional camber gain - not sure that's a plus, but everything else
>>>would be a positive.
>>>
>>>Joe, your TR-250 front end is getting more attractive as we go along...
>>>:)
>>>
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>At 10:41 AM 8/20/2012, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>>>>My guess is the are L&R handed to keep from mixing them up.  The
>>>>trunnion has the castor built into them and if you tried to reverse them
>>>>the wheel would have opposite castor.  The threads on them are also L&R
>>>>handed and can only be assembled as a set L&R.
>>>>Charly
>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
>>>>To: "MadMarx" <tr4racing at googlemail.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>
>>>>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:33 AM
>>>>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm looking at a diagram of the TR-4 and TR-4a
>>>>>front suspension.  On the 4A, the vertical link
>>>>>is different for Left Hand side of the car and
>>>>>Right Hand side of the car while on the TR-4 it's
>>>>>the same part for both sides.  The trunnions are
>>>>>"handed" too - right / left hand for both set ups (but are different
>>>>>parts).
>>>>>
>>>>>Why is the vertical link different from side to
>>>>>side?  I'm not seeing the difference and want to
>>>>>make sure I cover my bases if I make this conversion.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks, Tony
> <snip>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Aug 21 09:16:49 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:16:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
	<8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>

Hi -

Call me stupid, but I have to ask this follow-up question... I believe the 
initial question was "are the new vertical links worth buying?". There 
were a tonne of responses to the effect of "when you swap in a used 
vertical link, check for... yadda yadda yadda.

I get that.

But I don't think the original question was ever actually answered.

Does that mean unequivocably that the new ones should be avoided?

I'll toss in anecdotal comments overheard from a certain materials science 
member of the list - that the new castings may be flawed (due to metalurgy 
and to casting methods), but that's the extent of anything that I know on 
this topic. Can anyone chime on on this with something other than 
"offshore stuff all sucks".

As a point of information, in the northeast where this is salt on the 
roads, all the cores that I've obtained over the years have rust along the 
area of the threaded portion of the link where it threads into the 
trunnion. As a semi-interested party in metal fatigue and so forth, I 
can't get myself to use any of these because I have no idea how bad the 
rust has penetrated - but I also know that the presence of corrosion can't 
be a good thing.

So, should "we" avoid the _new_ vertical links altogether?

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From fubog1 at aol.com  Tue Aug 21 09:45:01 2012
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:45:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>
References: <20120819210547.336A82D027A@autox.team.net>
	<003f01cd7ea5$eed78de0$cc86a9a0$@com>
	<50324848.a1e2440a.2716.fffffe8fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001a01cd7ee2$de96dcf0$9bc496d0$@com>
	<50325048.49be440a.78ca.71ffSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
	<001f01cd7ee5$b0df7ee0$129e7ca0$@com>
	<20120820153131.1F8492D03B0@autox.team.net>
	<680D30284129444498D8F78250F89BD9@Charly>
	<20120820155219.29CF83003353@stor07r.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<35EB6B88225F43F5899722909C9CB9B7@Charly>
	<20120820230700.219B2105619D@stor30.mfg.siteprotect.com>
	<5F309C4276B041A2B2BED96CFFB9E5B9@Charly>
	<8CF4DC317D41F08-19FC-326C@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208211107110.17997@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <8CF4DCB0EE16CC3-19FC-43DB@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com>

 It all depends on what inventory a particular supplier has at any time.
I don't think that any of the larger suppliers knowingly sell crap but I have
bought exactly that at times from all of them.
You/I as the end-user have to make the ultimate call, inspect everything and
if something doesn't seem right it's because it isn't...
I wouldn't use a vertical link with corrosion on that inside corner, that's
obviously where all of the stress is, I have seen several break there.
Glen
ps- check the fulcrum pin/hole to trunnion, have seen several repros not
square/off center!!!





-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 21, 2012 11:21 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 vertical link and trunnion


Hi -

Call me stupid, but I have to ask this follow-up question... I believe the
initial question was "are the new vertical links worth buying?". There
were a tonne of responses to the effect of "when you swap in a used
vertical link, check for... yadda yadda yadda.


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 21 10:14:39 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 12:14:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6/TR250   BRAKE CALIPER BRACKETS AVAILABLE
Message-ID: <8CF4DCF32F863AF-179C-97E4C@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com>

Now that the suspensions are dismantled, for Tony's project, I have a pair if
brake brackets available if anyone has been thinking about a brake conversion
on their TR3.

CONTACT ME off list......


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Aug 21 10:26:51 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:26:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP4718340ED037B6D8C46BB2DBAB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <mailman.152.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I measure 0.630", fine thread.  Must be 5/8".

Tony

At 06:26 AM 8/21/2012, trmarty at hotmail.com wrote:
>Anybody know off the top of your head what the thread size is in the 
>front of a, TR4 crank?
>
>Marty
>
>Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Aug 22 11:22:32 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:22:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?
Message-ID: <mailman.153.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I've got the TR-250 front suspension pieces now (thanks Joe!) and it 
looks like they will lower my car about an inch.  Sooo, how much 
spacer do I need to add to the spring to offset that?  I'm guessing 
it's about a 2 to 1 deal, so 1/2" spacer would be an inch of ride height.

Anyone have something better than a guess for this?

By the way, the TR-250 (and 4A and 6) upright / vertical link is 
significantly beefier than the TR-4 piece as has been mentioned on 
the list.  The upper portion seems to be larger cross section as well 
as the lower screw portion being larger in diameter.

Thanks in advance,
Tony Drews


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 22 12:25:51 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 14:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?
In-Reply-To: <20120822172613.C150E2D0299@autox.team.net>
References: <20120822172613.C150E2D0299@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF4EAAB15F923F-13EC-80330@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

that's what i have used in the past  1/2  =  1

i did not realize the TR6 parts were significantly more stout.

thanks Chris.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Aug 22, 2012 12:28 pm
Subject: [Fot] Front Spring spacer length?


I've got the TR-250 front suspension pieces now (thanks Joe!) and it
looks like they will lower my car about an inch.  Sooo, how much
spacer do I need to add to the spring to offset that?  I'm guessing
it's about a 2 to 1 deal, so 1/2" spacer would be an inch of ride height.

Anyone have something better than a guess for this?

By the way, the TR-250 (and 4A and 6) upright / vertical link is
significantly beefier than the TR-4 piece as has been mentioned on
the list.  The upper portion seems to be larger cross section as well
as the lower screw portion being larger in diameter.

Thanks in advance,
Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From spitracer1296 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 22 13:03:36 2012
From: spitracer1296 at yahoo.com (chris crisenbery)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:03:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
Message-ID: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Checked RM Results Sold for $55,000
 
I didn't see if that included any buyers
premiums or not.


From spitracer1296 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 22 13:07:46 2012
From: spitracer1296 at yahoo.com (chris crisenbery)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 12:07:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
In-Reply-To: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1345662216.49444.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1345662466.72168.YahooMailNeo@web113810.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Auction estimate was $75K to $125K



________________________________
From: chris crisenbery <spitracer1296 at yahoo.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 3:03 PM
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD

Checked RM Results Sold for $55,000

I didn't see if that included any buyers
premiums or not.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Aug 22 14:42:49 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 20:42:49 +0000
Subject: [Fot] GT-6  Historic REAL car.
Message-ID: <SNT120-W626C1C1B423BA391C12AA1DFBF0@phx.gbl>

What a pity that a perfect restoration and truly nice piece with terrrific
history goes for that small price compared to nice street cas with no history
are nearly the same.

Never be beaten by equipment


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Aug 22 16:38:54 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:38:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] inquiry on transportation  midwest to la area
Message-ID: <8CF4ECE0B0279EB-13EC-82946@webmail-m020.sysops.aol.com>

if someone has something going from east to west in the next couple months,
let me know and we can discuss.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com


From gasket.works at gte.net  Wed Aug 22 19:17:24 2012
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 01:17:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Group 44 GT-6 SOLD
Message-ID: <1994533368-1345684645-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1668046759-@b28.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Don't be surprised @ this price.  These cars are directed to a smaller niche market.  Even with provenance it has limited real value except to some of us.  You could build a similar car for 25K to 30K so the history/provenance value doubled its value. Sadly, It may never bring this price again.  Me thinks RM estimated their price point intentionally high. I would have done the same.    

My two cents.

mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 23 15:21:54 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 14:21:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust valves.
All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the left
side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the intake/exhaust
(right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water on
the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.

So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many times?
Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than the
rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a bit
off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
pushrods?

This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
pal.

Ed Dunn


From sjanzen at me.com  Thu Aug 23 16:47:21 2012
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 18:47:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>

Hi, Ed
Sounds to me like you have a warped head, non-level block and/or studs that are stretched to the point where they've lost their elasticity (my engineering materials courses are 35 years in the rearview mirror, sorry if the terminology is wrong).  Too long is not an issue unless you are running out of thread to tighten the nuts.
Anyway, I'd suggest getting some new studs from ARP or another good supplier, and getting the both the head and block checked by a good machinist to make sure they're both flat, and getting the valves and valve seats re-cut.
Leakage along the outside of the pushrod galleys is not unusual - I usually assemble with a bit of black permatex over there, but not between the combustion chamber and the pushrod galleys.
Length of pushrods, etc - sometimes you can have these shortened, depending on the design.  Basically, you need to install and see if, when the camshaft travels through the lift cycle, the rocker travel across the tip of the valve is pretty close to centered.  If it's off, you'll get too much side load on the valve and wear issues.  There are lots of aftermarket pushrod mfrs who can supply new ones to the right length, or your machinist may be able to shorten the ones you have.

On Aug 23, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:

Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust valves.
All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the left
side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the intake/exhaust
(right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water on
the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.

So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many times?
Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than the
rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a bit
off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
pushrods?

This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
pal.

Ed Dunn
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 23 17:03:30 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 16:03:30 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Thanks,  we'll check it out more tonight. Will likely order a set of ARP head
studs.  Guess I'll take the head back to the cylinder head shop to have them
check the exhaust valves.  The engine was rebuilt last winter, and had a very
good race weekend before it failed. Did not retorque after the initial race
weekend. When doing a leak down test, how much time do you use per cylinder?

Ed


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 23 17:14:44 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:14:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46D6@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<05D98DFA-F065-4BF8-BF04-04BF956EAAAA@me.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1549BA8EF2575AE3A543EF7B2BE0@phx.gbl>

On this engine the leaking head gasket from the fuel pump side of the block is
a classic symptom I starting your torque sequence in the wrong side ( I've
made that mistake.

Have the valves and seats been recently done?

I've rebuilt 4 of those exact engines and never had to replace the stick bolts
but that is not to say yours are ok

You can check the head for flat/true by cleaning everything good then without
bolts or head gasket set the head into the engine block an use a .002 gauge to
check for gaps between block and head everywhere.  If you have a proper metal
straight edge you can lay it across block and head to further check if you are
of a mind to "do it  yourself" and this is a stock rebuild.

The machine shop is of course the best answer if it hasn't already been there
just prior to your recent assembly.

Best if luck

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-23, at 6:47 PM, "Scott Janzen" <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:

> Hi, Ed
> Sounds to me like you have a warped head, non-level block and/or studs that
are stretched to the point where they've lost their elasticity (my engineering
materials courses are 35 years in the rearview mirror, sorry if the
terminology is wrong).  Too long is not an issue unless you are running out of
thread to tighten the nuts.
> Anyway, I'd suggest getting some new studs from ARP or another good
supplier, and getting the both the head and block checked by a good machinist
to make sure they're both flat, and getting the valves and valve seats
re-cut.
> Leakage along the outside of the pushrod galleys is not unusual - I usually
assemble with a bit of black permatex over there, but not between the
combustion chamber and the pushrod galleys.
> Length of pushrods, etc - sometimes you can have these shortened, depending
on the design.  Basically, you need to install and see if, when the camshaft
travels through the lift cycle, the rocker travel across the tip of the valve
is pretty close to centered.  If it's off, you'll get too much side load on
the valve and wear issues.  There are lots of aftermarket pushrod mfrs who can
supply new ones to the right length, or your machinist may be able to shorten
the ones you have.
>
> On Aug 23, 2012, at 5:21 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:
>
> Did a leak down test on the GT6 motor. Retorqued the head to 75 lb ft.
> Performed test, and cylinders 1-5 were leaking through their exhaust
valves.
> All cylinders were also leaking through the head gasket, but ONLY on the
left
> side (opposite intake/exhaust ports).  Pulled the head, and the
intake/exhaust
> (right) side of the gasket looked fine, but the left side had oil and water
on
> the gasket, both top & bottom of gasket.
>
> So, it's got leaky exhaust valves, and head gasket leak. Possibly the head
> studs are too long, since the head has been machined who knows how many
times?
> Perhaps the studs are stretched? Also, one pushrod is a touch shorter than
the
> rest.  I think this can be adjusted for, but it would make the geometry a
bit
> off, correct?  The pushrods are also a slightly different design than on my
> spare engine.  With the head milled a bit, still use the original length
> pushrods?
>
> This is all puzzling to me and my non-professional but competent mechanic
> pal.
>
> Ed Dunn
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 23 17:17:00 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Odd compression?
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A46DC@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS109A548E3D17C1A8B3D3467B2BE0@phx.gbl>

Race engine, ya sounds like machine shop time to be safe :)

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-23, at 7:03 PM, "Edward Dunn" <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Thanks,  we'll check it out more tonight. Will likely order a set of ARP
head
> studs.  Guess I'll take the head back to the cylinder head shop to have
them
> check the exhaust valves.  The engine was rebuilt last winter, and had a
very
> good race weekend before it failed. Did not retorque after the initial race
> weekend. When doing a leak down test, how much time do you use per
cylinder?
>
> Ed
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Fri Aug 24 10:54:52 2012
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 12:54:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Roebling Rd in 3 weeks
Message-ID: <CALsVEtCY3kDunZ+E=o_CpARBKqRK3iG_2+WNTPaHw7FB5fj4fg@mail.gmail.com>

Who's going to the VDCA event at Roebling Road in Savannah next month?
 It's the weekend of September 15th.

This one is only a 2 day event but since its usually smaller than most we
get tons of track time for practically nothing ($250).  Don


From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Aug 26 12:51:27 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:51:27 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
Message-ID: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>

Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?

Never be beaten by equipment


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 26 12:59:04 2012
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:59:04 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
Message-ID: <12740944.1346007544376.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I'm going.  Just tuned up the TR3 10 minutes ago.

~Steve Belfer


-----Original Message-----
>From: Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
>Sent: Aug 26, 2012 11:51 AM
>To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Fot] Going racing
>
>Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
>
>Never be beaten by equipment
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Sun Aug 26 13:32:50 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 12:32:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

We'll be there.  At least with my wife's Formula Vee... Don't know if the
cranky GT6 will be fixed though.  Hopefully. Maybe.

Ed Dunn






-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Kas Kastner
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:51 AM
To: fot
Subject: [Fot] Going racing

Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?

Never be beaten by equipment
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Aug 26 14:13:50 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 16:13:50 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
Message-ID: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>

Who's going to be there?
I will be there crewing for a MGA #275 and a Formula  Vee #25.

I will have badges and flags.  From now on half of the price goes to our FOT
website.

See you there.

Chris


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Sun Aug 26 16:01:20 2012
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:01:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
In-Reply-To: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
References: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>

I'll be there, working in the pit lane or roaming.
Frank's MGTD is waiting on a frame/body transplant after multi-roll at NJMSP
in July.


Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
"Reality, it's not what you think." 


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 26 16:06:10 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:06:10 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
	<36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4705@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS101BA20A6DB2061F2E42FA5B2A30@phx.gbl>

I hope you get it sorted out  Ed.  Did you narrow it down further?

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-26, at 3:44 PM, "Edward Dunn" <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> We'll be there.  At least with my wife's Formula Vee... Don't know if the
> cranky GT6 will be fixed though.  Hopefully. Maybe.
>
> Ed Dunn
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Kas Kastner
> Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:51 AM
> To: fot
> Subject: [Fot] Going racing
>
> Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 26 20:27:11 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 21:27:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
Message-ID: <mailman.154.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.

I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...

Thanks, Tony Drews


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 26 20:33:17 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 21:33:17 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827022514.816032D01AC@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827022514.816032D01AC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.155.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

By the way, it's frozen in the trunnion itself.  It turns within the wishbones.

Tony

At 09:27 PM 8/26/2012, Tony Drews wrote:
>Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
>(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.
>
>I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews


From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net  Sun Aug 26 20:38:28 2012
From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 19:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827023039.390142D01FC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1346035108.52106.YahooMailClassic@web181403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Tony: That is very common. The bolt rusts to the tubes inside the top-hat. The
bolt turns, but you can't pull it out because the OD of the tube is bigger
than the hole in the trunnion. If you can't PB Blaster it and then press out
in a press you'll need to cut the bolt head and nut off.
If you damage the trunnion let me know which side it is R/H or L/H and I'll
send you a good one.
-Ed-

--- On Sun, 8/26/12, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:


From: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
To: fot at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 26, 2012, 9:33 PM


By the way, it's frozen in the trunnion itself.  It turns within the
wishbones.

Tony

At 09:27 PM 8/26/2012, Tony Drews wrote:
>Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt
>(TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower wishbones.
>
>I've been doing heat, BP blaster, and an impact wrench...
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Aug 26 20:49:49 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:49:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>

Tony Drews wrote:
> Anyone have any helpful hints on how to break a frozen trunnion bolt 
> (TR-6 trunnion) free?  It's the bolt that goes through the lower 
> wishbones.
I've always ended up using a die grinder with cut off wheel to free the 
trunnion from the
wishbones, then replacing the trunnion if the rusted bolt and sleeve 
ovaled it out.


mjb.


From chasgee at aol.com  Sun Aug 26 21:39:14 2012
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:39:14 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Going racing
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT120-W19906ACD8AFE49B757601FDFA30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <104D9428-C701-4FF3-A4C2-47EAEC059732@aol.com>

I'm trying to make it.  It's going to be close.

Chuck

On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:51 AM, Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> Who  is going to Button Willow for the September event?
> 
> Never be beaten by equipment
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Aug 27 07:31:27 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 09:31:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock
In-Reply-To: <004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>
References: <7EA652AA-5CE1-4529-B52A-A8059FE8243A@aol.com>
	<004801cd83d6$53bd0930$fb371b90$@com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208270929480.11899@isis.mit.edu>

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012, Clark W. Nicholls wrote:

> I'll be there, working in the pit lane or roaming.
> Frank's MGTD is waiting on a frame/body transplant after multi-roll at NJMSP
> in July.

I'll be there, mostly roaming or spectating from the hill at the esses. We 
have four or five Triumphs caravanning from Central MA first thing SAT, 
and one of our members camps at the climbing turn every year...

> Clark
> Clark W. Nicholls
> 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U)
> and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner


c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Mon Aug 27 08:17:14 2012
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:17:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 69, Issue 26- Limerock
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7691.1346074132.2453.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7691.1346074132.2453.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF1AC4B0DF.E5E5636D-ON85257A67.004D68EF-85257A67.004E7F5C@us.ibm.com>

I'll be racing the Spitfire at Limerock, hopefully with the new engine, if
it's back from the shop in time (like tomorrow). Had a rebuild of my spare
motor, with some pointers I picked up at the Mitty. The shop found scoring
on the crank from a failed spring shim. I had a spare crank waiting for
just such an emergency. Got the engine back last week, went to swap it
yesterday and forgot that my flywheel and cranks have been drilled out to
use 7/16 ARP bolts, and this one wasn't. Shop is making a fixture to drill
crank in block. Several Plan B's, all of then involve a late night or 2
before Thursday.

I'm also doing the  4PM Thursday race car parade from the track to
Lakeville. The track is still looking for vintage cars to accompany the
race cars into town, if you're interested contact Limerock.

63 Spit


G. Michael Harmuth


From cwnfot at gmail.com  Mon Aug 27 08:34:32 2012
From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:34:32 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
	<503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>

Hate to say it but this is a serious lack of preventive maintenance! 
All too common but shouldn't be on a race car!
Cover the new bolt and bushing sleeve with grease on re-assembly!
Yikes!

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
"Reality, it's not what you think."


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Aug 27 12:19:21 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 11:19:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire on CL
Message-ID: <06C2D85382464996BEAC17C829EB50BE@Charly>

http://hiltonhead.craigslist.org/cto/3190322843.html

Charly


From vintageautoservice at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 27 16:40:38 2012
From: vintageautoservice at yahoo.com (Guy Morter)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 15:40:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Clutch disc diameter
Message-ID: <1346107238.69551.YahooMailClassic@web162205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

TR Amigos
I have a bunch of TR clutch discs that are 9-1/8" in dia. The one I need is 8-1/2" dia. What is the application for the 8-1/2" disc?
Guy Morter
Vintage Auto Service
262 573 4511

Flatheads Forever!


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 27 09:34:08 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:34:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Frozen trunnion bolt
In-Reply-To: <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>
References: <20120827022516.B0C302D01AC@autox.team.net>
	<503AE04D.7020808@bradakis.com> <005d01cd8461$1359f890$3a0de9b0$@com>
Message-ID: <mailman.156.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Was not on MY race car, but was hoping to have it there soon.  Is in 
the bits of "new to me" suspension parts that are / were going on the car.

Bolt will have anti-seize on it when it goes in my car.

Tony

At 09:34 AM 8/27/2012, Clark W. Nicholls wrote:
>Hate to say it but this is a serious lack of preventive maintenance!
>All too common but shouldn't be on a race car!
>Cover the new bolt and bushing sleeve with grease on re-assembly!
>Yikes!
>
>Clark
>Clark W. Nicholls
>1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U)
>and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
>"Reality, it's not what you think."


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Tue Aug 28 13:13:32 2012
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:13:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6 Rotoflex Parts Needed
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639BB41AAB5@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey members,

I need a pair (left and right) of rear wheel hubs for a Rotoflex GT6 as well
as the inner rear radius arm mounts/stud. The ones that go thru/connects
together bottom of the upright and lower control arm and provides a mount for
the radius arm as it goes toward the bodies radius arm mount.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From cartravel at pobox.com  Tue Aug 28 17:32:15 2012
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 18:32:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
Message-ID: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>

Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know 
they are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be 
more useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S 
carbs.  I'm looking for something similar to the SU needle information 
on the web, so I don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the 
computer.  I'll use SU needles if necessary, but would like to see (in 
an easy to compare form) what is available for the Z-S carbs.
Thanks,
Larry


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 28 17:55:06 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 19:55:06 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS78FF76FCE1A898F6EBDAE3B2A10@phx.gbl>

I take it you mean Zenith Stromberg.  What carbs are you dealing with?  I just
spent much research and time analyzing zenith needle charts to come up with
something for the cd150s in my GT6 racers as it was starving for fuel.  First
race event starts Thursday so i can get right down to fine tuning.  The needle
I chose made a big difference in the brief test run I did last week.

My set up is fairly mild with a fast road cam 290 duration and about 10:1
compression with better breathing intake and exhaust.

I'll send you the charts and the little spread sheet I set up that compares
needle profiles if you want it.

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-28, at 7:37 PM, "Larry Young" <cartravel at pobox.com> wrote:

> Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know they
are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be more
useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S carbs.  I'm
looking for something similar to the SU needle information on the web, so I
don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the computer.  I'll use SU needles
if necessary, but would like to see (in an easy to compare form) what is
available for the Z-S carbs.
> Thanks,
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Aug 28 18:28:52 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 20:28:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <8CF5394661B3BFC-D08-3E6F9@webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com>

 We use SU NEEDLES on our Strombergs....shim stock is required to locate
needle and to center it.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Young <cartravel at pobox.com>
To: FOT <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Aug 28, 2012 6:37 pm
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs


Is there an electronic copy of the Z-S needle specs available?  I know
they are tabulated in the Haynes manual, but an electronic copy would be
more useful.  I also understand that SU needles can be used in Z-S
carbs.  I'm looking for something similar to the SU needle information
on the web, so I don't have to type a bunch of numbers into the
computer.  I'll use SU needles if necessary, but would like to see (in
an easy to compare form) what is available for the Z-S carbs.
Thanks,
Larry
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 29 05:14:42 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 07:14:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparisons
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>

Larry here's my comparison spreadsheet. I'm running the B5CE needle this weekend and will let you know how they perform.  Ill send you the complete Zenith chart as well when I can. 

Cheers

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Garrett, Vince" <vgarrett at scdsb.on.ca>
> Date: 15 August, 2012 11:29:38 AM EDT
> To: <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
> Subject: CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparisons
> 
>  
> GT6+,  Stromberg CD150 Adjustable Needle Comparison Chart
> These and other needles available through Rimmer.  The Rimmer MK3 Upgrade is their suggestion when K&N's and Tubular Exhaust is fitted
> Adjusted Richer
> My Pick/Richer
> My Pick Adjusted Richer
> RIMMER MK3 Upgrade
> RIMMER MK3 Adjusted Richer
> Stock B5AJ
> B5AJ+1/8"
> B5CE
> DIFF
> B5CE+1/8"
> DIFF
> B5BU
> B5BU+1/8"
> DIFF
> 0.0855
> 0.0843
> 0.0012
> 0.0880
> -0.0025
> 0.0845
> 0.0010
> 0.0881
> -0.0026
> 0.0853
> 0.0002
> 0.0843
> 0.0829
> 0.0014
> 0.0845
> -0.0002
> 0.0817
> 0.0026
> 0.0853
> -0.0010
> 0.0830
> 0.0013
> 0.0829
> 0.0800
> 0.0029
> 0.0817
> 0.0012
> 0.0797
> 0.0032
> 0.0830
> -0.0001
> 0.0804
> 0.0025
> 0.0800
> 0.0766
> 0.0034
> 0.0797
> 0.0003
> 0.0770
> 0.0030
> 0.0804
> -0.0004
> 0.0783
> 0.0017
> 0.0766
> 0.0737
> 0.0029
> 0.0770
> -0.0004
> 0.0739
> 0.0027
> 0.0783
> -0.0017
> 0.0755
> 0.0011
> 0.0737
> 0.0709
> 0.0028
> 0.0739
> -0.0002
> 0.0698
> 0.0039
> 0.0755
> -0.0018
> 0.0725
> 0.0012
> 0.0709
> 0.0683
> 0.0026
> 0.0698
> 0.0011
> 0.0651
> 0.0058
> 0.0725
> -0.0016
> 0.0696
> 0.0013
> 0.0683
> 0.0671
> 0.0012
> 0.0651
> 0.0032
> 0.0605
> 0.0078
> 0.0696
> -0.0013
> 0.0678
> 0.0005
> 0.0671
> 0.0657
> 0.0014
> 0.0605
> 0.0066
> 0.0560
> 0.0111
> 0.0678
> -0.0007
> 0.0665
> 0.0006
> 0.0657
> 0.0644
> 0.0013
> 0.0560
> 0.0097
> 0.0510
> 0.0147
> 0.0665
> -0.0008
> 0.0552
> 0.0105
> 0.0644
> 0.0635
> 0.0009
> 0.0510
> 0.0134
> 0.0510
> 0.0134
> 0.0552
> 0.0092
> 0.0541
> 0.0103
> 0.0635
> 0.0635
> 0.0000
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0541
> 0.0094
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
> 0.0635
> 0.0635
> 0.0000
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0510
> 0.0125
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
> 0.0540
> 0.0095
>  
>  
> Vince Garrett
> Project Coordinator b Technology
> Information Technology Services
> Simcoe County District School Board
> (705) 734-6363 Ext: 11404


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Aug 29 16:33:54 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls", 
you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the 
spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two 
Zenith Stromberg needles.

To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles 
with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU 
needles if you want.

Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart 
are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the 
numbers look pretty close indeed.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From igofaster at att.net  Wed Aug 29 16:34:04 2012
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 15:34:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
Message-ID: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an 
engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this time... 
I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this year, 
I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get 
started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there 
specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone Classics 
that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show TR6 
pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same 
piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the 
longer stroke on the TR6....
Any leads on a one stop shop for both?

Bobby Whitehead


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Wed Aug 29 17:06:23 2012
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:06:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <503EA06F.6070402@cfl.rr.com>

Nothing sounds like a GT6 engine at full song. TR6 motor would be 
blasphemy. Don't do it!!

Venolia can make the pistons to your spec and I'm sure Carillo can 
supply rods ,too.

Ric Cline is the key to building a really good GT6 motor (sorry, I know 
I have probably said this too many times).

Bob


On 8/29/12 6:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
> I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an
> engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this time...
> I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this year,
> I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get
> started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there
> specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Wed Aug 29 17:14:27 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:14:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6 rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYpZPBMEmVFaAdW6_0=S7GJOeJ9SiCbUf5txaB1=63drBQ@mail.gmail.com>

There are many things that make sense to swap out of a GT6.
In my opinion... the motor is NOT one of them.
All those trick parts you speak of are available but I cannot comment on
what's best out there.
Scott J. and I seem to do just fine with pretty basic stuff that has more
less been (motor wise) raced for 40 years...in the group 44 cars, in Kas's
car's.
Steve has taken it beyond with his car (check out his pistons on his
photo site) and I'm sure he is faster.
Take it slow you can always add stuff as you rebuild again.
Ted would be a great choice to get you going quick enough (and give you a
solid foundation for development)
Maybe I'm in the minority but you realy don't have to get so nutty with all
that expensive stuff for the first build.
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> I'm getting my mind (and wallet) around the idea of starting to rebuild an
> engine for my GT6.. one of my CVAR guys suggests I use a TR6 engine this
> time...
> I'm not so sure I want to 'cheat' ...  I talked to Ted @ TSI earlier this
> year,
> I'm sure he thinks I'm a flake, cause I haven't pulled the trigger to get
> started on a new one...  question is... are there products out there
> specifically for the GT6 like forged rods and pistons? I found Wishbone
> Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show
> TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Wed Aug 29 17:24:16 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:24:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194


From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Aug 29 17:38:33 2012
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 23:38:33 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>

just a reminder that on page 110 of my book the "Handbook" there is a chart of
the needles we used with great success in  the 1.5" carbs..  These are
STROMBERG needles. Lots of number to compare. By the way that is .006" shim
stock you need to use an S.U. needle.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: cartravel at pobox.com
> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
>
> Hi,
>
> I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls",
> you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the
> spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two
> Zenith Stromberg needles.
>
> To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles
> with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU
> needles if you want.
>
> Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart
> are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the
> numbers look pretty close indeed.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Wed Aug 29 17:39:18 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:39:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
	<00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
Message-ID: <000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>

Just out of curiosity (and not to start another thread on valve guide
clearance:)) what clearance were you running with the bronze guides?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:24 PM
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Aug 29 18:56:19 2012
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 19:56:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
In-Reply-To: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CFB6D893-8FA8-4C46-A657-AD7638F39825@gmail.com>

Hi Bobby,

How does $710 for a set of forged, shot-peened 4340 H-beam connecting rods
sound?

http://www.maxspeedingrods-store.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500late-1300GT6-TR6-Co
nrods-6-pieces-CR-TRI-TR6.htm

Duncan


On Aug 29, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:

>  I found Wishbone Classics
> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site show
TR6
> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was the
> longer stroke on the TR6....
> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>
> Bobby Whitehead


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 29 19:06:53 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 21:06:53 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
In-Reply-To: <SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>
References: <503D54FF.2080506@pobox.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1208291830020.19883@isis.mit.edu>
	<SNT120-W36520C7505D6C1991E105FDFA00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT402-EAS522F6D14BC169B6D54258FDB2A70@phx.gbl>

Cool thanks Kas. I may have to take a look....

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-29, at 7:39 PM, "Kas Kastner" <kaskas at cox.net> wrote:

> just a reminder that on page 110 of my book the "Handbook" there is a chart
of
> the needles we used with great success in  the 1.5" carbs..  These are
> STROMBERG needles. Lots of number to compare. By the way that is .006" shim
> stock you need to use an S.U. needle.
>
> Never be beaten by equipment
>> Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 18:33:54 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: cartravel at pobox.com
>> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Zenith-Stromberg needle specs
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I found a resource for this - if you google "stromberg-needles.xls",
>> you'll get a hit that will take you to lotuselan.net. Download the
>> spreadsheet and have at it. You can do side-by-side comparisons of any two
>> Zenith Stromberg needles.
>>
>> To Joe A's comment about using the SU .100 needles or the .090 needles
>> with shim stock, you can use the ZS needle profiles to compare to the SU
>> needles if you want.
>>
>> Note: I make absolutely no claim as to whether the numbers on this chart
>> are correct, but in the little research I've done on the subject, the
>> numbers look pretty close indeed.
>>
>> Regards,
>> rml
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Thu Aug 30 08:29:00 2012
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 07:29:00 -0700
Subject: [Fot] GT6  rebuild ...
References: <1346279644.84708.YahooMailRC@web182201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<CFB6D893-8FA8-4C46-A657-AD7638F39825@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E5D044A927641AAA53EE966E5AF3831@Charly>

I have these in my TR6 motor and so far I have no complaints.
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: "Bobby Whitehead" <igofaster at att.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 rebuild ...


> Hi Bobby,
>
> How does $710 for a set of forged, shot-peened 4340 H-beam connecting rods
> sound?
>
> http://www.maxspeedingrods-store.com/Triumph-Spitfire-1500late-1300GT6-TR6-Co
> nrods-6-pieces-CR-TRI-TR6.htm
>
> Duncan
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote:
>
>>  I found Wishbone Classics
>> that I think have the rods for $1295... but the pistons on their site 
>> show
> TR6
>> pistons only...   does the (dumb question) TR6 and the GT6 share the same
>> piston?  I thought all along the displacement difference in the two was 
>> the
>> longer stroke on the TR6....
>> Any leads on a one stop shop for both?
>>
>> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 30 11:49:09 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 13:49:09 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap
In-Reply-To: <000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>
References: <BAB47FFD1C82154B91C9CD663014CA2901041FD0@exchanges01.admin.scdsb.pri>
	<SNT402-EAS1509ADA73C424878970FAADB2A00@phx.gbl>
	<00b801cd863d$68d85ef0$3a891cd0$@net>
	<000301cd863f$822fe150$868fa3f0$@com>
Message-ID: <00c501cd86d7$c2acaf40$48060dc0$@net>

I didn't ask about the tolerances. I simply trusted the machinist.

Because of personal recommendations, I took the head to Automotive Precision
Machinery in Atlanta. The bill was about $600 for re-surfacing the head and
3 angle and assembly. This did not include parts. Upon disassembly, I found
the valve seats single faced. 

They had the crankshaft nitrited and upon assembly I found it not true. I
took it back and they heated it and bent it back to what seemed like perfect
to me. I don't know if that's normal but watching your crankshaft visibly
bent is like watching sausage being made....or worse, watching an abnormal
sex act. 

I would not recommend them to others.

Richard Taylor
TR-4 #196


-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Murphy [mailto:timmurph at fastbytes.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 7:39 PM
To: 'Richard Taylor'; FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

Just out of curiosity (and not to start another thread on valve guide
clearance:)) what clearance were you running with the bronze guides?

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6:24 PM
To: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Wrist Pin / Piston Slap

At Road Atlanta, I had #4 exhaust valve bond to its bronze sleeve. The head
has new valves and guides and is back on the engine. Now, at an idle, there
is a wristpin (or piston slap) apparently damage caused when the two
elements united and was unlocked by the piston. Above 1250 RPMs, it goes
away. My thought is to simply put in a new piston, rings, wristpin and
connecting rod. 

If it is that simple, where can I order just one 89MM piston/wrist
pin/connecting rod?

Richard Taylor TR-4  #194
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 14:24:03 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 16:24:03 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Alex Rourke
Message-ID: <098ykkwtesyqs3op5nuyrbfp.1346358243148@email.android.com>

Amici,

Does anyone know Alex Rourke? Not sure where he is from, but I know he ran at Grattan the last couple of years. He drives a yellow 1962 Lotus Elan. If you have an email address, that would be great.

Thanks,

Doug

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad


From edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com  Thu Aug 30 14:27:54 2012
From: edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com (Edward Dunn)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 13:27:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
Message-ID: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Thu Aug 30 14:46:32 2012
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 15:46:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>

I'll certainly second that!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Edward Dunn
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 3:28 PM
To: 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From chasgee at aol.com  Thu Aug 30 15:30:01 2012
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 14:30:01 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
Message-ID: <C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>

Wow, you made it another year.  Who'd a thought...

Chuck

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 30, 2012, at 1:27 PM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
> Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.
>
> Cheers to Kas!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com


From tarch at bellsouth.net  Thu Aug 30 16:16:51 2012
From: tarch at bellsouth.net (Richard Taylor)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:16:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<000801cd86f0$89cbcbc0$9d636340$@com>
Message-ID: <012801cd86fd$28406890$78c139b0$@net>

Kas,

Happy Birthday.

You are an incredible asset to so may of us. But most especially thank you
for being a friend.

Many happy returns.



Richard  L. Taylor, Jr., FAIA
TAYLOR           ARCHITECTURE
112  Krog  St.     Suite  196
Atlanta,    Georgia,    30307
tel:           (404) 223-1313
fax:           (404) 223-1312
mobile:        (404) 660-4920
www.taylor-architecture.com


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tim Murphy
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 4:47 PM
To: 'Edward Dunn'; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

I'll certainly second that!

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Edward Dunn
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 3:28 PM
To: 'fot at autox.team.net'
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.

Cheers to Kas!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From bob at nwspeedshots.com  Thu Aug 30 16:25:02 2012
From: bob at nwspeedshots.com (Bob Pengraph)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 22:25:02 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas
In-Reply-To: <C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>
References: <36946218D9EC344498D59FD515FE20FB0177226A4770@TITAN.dwholdings.local>
	<C068BD8F-EA99-44C2-B404-5149C008BC90@aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.157.1638252572.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Happy Birthday Kas!
Never be beaten by age!
Take care,
Bob Pengraph
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: chasgee at aol.com
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 14:30:01 
To: Kas Kastner<kaskas at cox.net>
Cc: fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Happy Birthday, Kas

Wow, you made it another year.  Who'd a thought...

Chuck

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 30, 2012, at 1:27 PM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> Happy birthday to the amazing Kas Kastner.  You're an amazing guy, and the
> Triumph racing world truly appreciates your help, guidance and advice.
>
> Cheers to Kas!
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From goodparts at verizon.net  Thu Aug 30 17:33:11 2012
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 19:33:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <874C324F3FF54B74BAF0FBB46BDF5FC6@AdminPC>

I would like to nominate my friend Boyd Wagner to our group.  He is a Triumph
enthusiast and has done beautiful restorations on a TR250 and a 1969 TR6 and
also has a 1974 TR6.  He recently built a Sprite for autocross and hillclimb.

Richard Good


From awashatko at wi.rr.com  Thu Aug 30 17:39:11 2012
From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:39:11 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
Message-ID: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>

Kas,

Wishing you the best on your birthday.
Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.

In appreciation,

Allen


Allen & Jody Washatko
1971 TR6  - Number 6


From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 17:39:23 2012
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 19:39:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] nomination
Message-ID: <79qn3796ib98ehfid1gdhqr0.1346369963253@email.android.com>

I'll second the nomination.
Cheers,

--
Doug Mitchell
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

Sent from my ASUS Pad

Richard Good <goodparts at verizon.net> wrote:

>I would like to nominate my friend Boyd Wagner to our group.  He is a Triumph
>enthusiast and has done beautiful restorations on a TR250 and a 1969 TR6 and
>also has a 1974 TR6.  He recently built a Sprite for autocross and hillclimb.
>
>Richard Good
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmitchel at sbcglobal.net


From vangoughv at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 30 18:58:52 2012
From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT401-EAS1058E9DE48A34C374D42268B2A60@phx.gbl>

Happy birthday!

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-30, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Kas,
>
> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
>
> In appreciation,
>
> Allen
>
>
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com


From budscars at comcast.net  Thu Aug 30 19:23:35 2012
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:23:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
	<SNT401-EAS1058E9DE48A34C374D42268B2A60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B47E17B13B5340858C5BC74961883354@Bud>

Happy Birthday Kas..Thanks for all that you do/have done for the racing 
world.
Racer Bud..
Spitfire #21
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Vince G" <vangoughv at hotmail.com>
To: "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com>
Cc: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2012 5:58 PM
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas


> Happy birthday!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 2012-08-30, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Kas,
>>
>> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
>> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
>>
>> In appreciation,
>>
>> Allen
>>
>>
>> Allen & Jody Washatko
>> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 30 19:48:58 2012
From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis Delap)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 20:48:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kas
Message-ID: <496E4F48-887E-4EBB-94BE-D43797094488@sbcglobal.net>

Happy Birthday!

Dennis&Joan


From clw2000 at msn.com  Thu Aug 30 20:35:42 2012
From: clw2000 at msn.com (Charles WATSON)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 22:35:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>

Happy Birthday to an icon of sport!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2012, at 7:39 PM, "Allen Washatko" <awashatko at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Kas,
> 
> Wishing you the best on your birthday.
> Thank you for giving so much of yourself to this fine group.
> 
> In appreciation,
> 
> Allen
> 
> 
> Allen & Jody Washatko
> 1971 TR6  - Number 6
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/clw2000 at msn.com


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Fri Aug 31 05:36:59 2012
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 07:36:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Not Triumph, but MG parts and cars for sale
References: <003e01cd8719$fc81a760$f584f620$@net>
Message-ID: <6BD2DD53-6B24-43E4-9A40-345A51BCC53C@aol.com>

I got this from another club I am part of.  I am sure someone might be
interested.

Chris
>
>
> B7         bTwo MG B's (b75 & b79) partially dismantled including most
if not all their parts.
>
> B7         A very good size truck load of MG parts including a number of
engine's and transmissions hood, trunks with and without luggage racks,  extra
set of seats just a bunch of stuff.
>
> The cars are on our lot and available to be viewed during normal business
hours the parts we would have to set up an appointment to view but would not
be difficult to do that  I do have some pictures and would be happy to send
them to you just let me know.   Thank you for any leads you find.  We would
prefer to sell everything for one deal at this time but as time goes by we
will start to sell bits and pieces .  Feel free to pass along my email and or
phone number  and again thank you.
>
>
> Ditmire Motorworks
> 425 White Horse Pike
> Absecon, NJ 08201
> (609) 641-3392
>
> ditmiremb at gmail.com
> Feel free to Give me a call I'll be happy to help.  Joelb


From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri Aug 31 08:18:23 2012
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 10:18:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot]  Happy Birthday Kas
In-Reply-To: <BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>
References: <A108629A-72B3-4B6D-AC63-511609D2590E@wi.rr.com>
	<BLU401-EAS94C16FB21554247FCF2242BFA60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001201cd8783$7ad976b0$708c6410$@net>

Happy Birthday!

Craig


From jason at multivintage.com  Fri Aug 31 12:30:22 2012
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 13:30:22 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Phiosophical Reflections on GT6 motor internals
Message-ID: <CALCydYoRMYA4RtcyA-z7NzUx4QLqDsRc9ik1bfMsVaZUPPomEA@mail.gmail.com>

There are not that many GT6's out there racing week after week..
I have said before that my approach for the past few years has been to
focus on maintaining the car with the mechanical properties that have been
long time race proven.
"Knowledge" gained from studying the great cars I grew up with here in the
Midwest and lucky to have my own working historical template, I remain true
to many seemingly "old school" ways.
Not surprisingly, what I have found to be the working norm usually follows
pretty close in line with Kas's early yellow version of the
"Competition Preparation Manual" for the GT6+...
reoccurringly and affectionately referred to in my garage as "the little
yellow book"

This takes me back to fond memories of perhaps the Silver Age of GT6ing (In
my mind)((from the mid 1970's to the mid 80's)). The factory cars had
disappeared. The guys that were left racing GT6's were still trying to keep
the cars running like the factory backed cars of years earlier.
To do this, you basically had to have a GT6 graveyard in your backyard. And
if you were very lucky you could find access to those coveted "V" parts...
which had virtually disappeared as well.
However, with close attention to details in "the little yellow book" using
parts from your backyard graveyard... you could foil Datsuns and Alfas for
a class win.
If the stars were in alignment, you might even be a real underdog hero
and nudge out a super sized GT1 muscle car for the overall win.

Of course, you hear about Group 44 and Kastner and Cline and their glorious
GT6's.
In my world, there was a guy named Dennis Moeller who pioneered the
campaign of GT6's in the Midwest. There were a few more names that dabbled
with the cars as well but my learning came mostly from hanging around the
cars of John Reed and my Dad... as they continued to fight the battle in
GT6's for many years.
Builders and racers that worked with very little (in the way of new
parts)... but with attention to details and many grueling hours of smart
preparation of mostly used Triumph Parts or custom "one offs"... they held
there own.
My modest friend John Reed is not the type to talk much about winning in
his "Zippy"... but his record is quite impressive. He won tons of races
back in the day and was always in contention for the Midwestern Council DP
championship. I have yet to meet a driver that  finished more events in a
GT6.
As a lucky second generation GT6 addict, I am fortunate to have these guys
(John and my Dad) as Coaches, advisers and aging crew members.
And as the self appointed curator of our three cars and a few spare motors
I can say, rather proudly, that they all have stock connecting rods and
stock pistons.
Each motor varies in potency. A couple are real killers and through it all
have been pretty much bulletproof.
Somehow over the past 40 years the three main cars managed to rack up over
400 race finishes.  .
My plan is to have all three (very different) cars up at Road America for
the next Kastner Cup. Each with it's corresponding "Legend of motorsport"

Now, not to be narrow minded, or resistant to change, or stuck with a 1972
rule book in hand....
Someday I would like to try my hand (budget pending) with some of the newer
trick stuff out there and I do support any newfangled modern production of
quality parts.The parts that we have used in these motors has been mostly
a matter of means and, more importantly, has followed efforts of being able
to keep them built and tuned "in house" with limited equipment.  Most
importantly, they need to be assembled with personal notes, the illustrated
factory manuals and help from that old "little yellow book."

Whatever parts you have or decide to put in your GT6, Please, please make
plans to bring them ALL to the next Kastner Cup.
Shot peened steel?, aluminium?, carbon fiber?....bring it to Road America a
year from now.
LET'S RACE!

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing