From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 06:15:40 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:15:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by
In-Reply-To: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE05FFB9BAA7FC-1DF0-5D8A2@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT






 Curtis has a website on British Race Cars.

He doesnt know much about Triumphs so I introduced him to Bob Wismer  and
Dennis Delap at VIR.

He did an extensive photo/journal on the THUNDERBOLT and JUST published an
article on Dennis' new modified TVR '2200'.

He is in Seattle right now.  He will stop in to visit you NW GUYS.

Very pleasant guy and an opportunity to showcase our Triumphs as well
providing some owner with a rather comprehensive document on your Triumph.

BRITISHRACECAR.COM    is the website, I believe.

PACK A LUNCH...the articles are very comprehensive and long.

Who is going to be next?

Joe A

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 06:38:46 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:38:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
Message-ID: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  1 07:09:14 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:09:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT list
Message-ID: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>

I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 07:29:23 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:29:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT list  attn: mark bradakis
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 MARK B is the guy.

we dont want to lose Bill Tobin

i also have an address that shows only '3' instead of '31'      which is
correct?









-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:22 am
Subject: [Fot] FOT list


I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill
changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Jul  1 07:36:55 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 06:36:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E0DCD77.1030607@comcast.net>

Second and welcome Bob & Becky - They are great folks and there is a TR6 
involved.  They are getting married next weekend at the Portland 
Historic Races.

On 7/1/2011 5:38 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>   Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
> into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.
>
> Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others
>
> bob at nwspeedshots.com
>
> Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.
>
> I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY
>
> I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.
>
> Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 08:04:36 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 10:04:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] [CWE] SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by
In-Reply-To: <57E2823E71FA4C778C081351576CEAA2@Charly>
References: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<57E2823E71FA4C778C081351576CEAA2@Charly>
Message-ID: <8CE060EF1FCFC3C-D80-35D45@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com>

 will do....

he has a gallery of race cars, as well as the major articles....a few are
listed in it.

like jeff snook, george wright and scott janzen.

it would be nice to have all of the FOT  in there.








-----Original Message-----
From: Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: cwe <cwe at autox.team.net>; n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:43 am
Subject: Re: [CWE] SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by


Joe, if you can let him know we are all grouped in one area in the paddock,
Jeff Quick, Steve Hare, Mark York, Mike Mehl and myself.
Thanks,
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

----- Original Message -----

From:   n197tr4 at cs.com

To: cwe at autox.team.net

Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 5:05 AM

Subject: [CWE] SEATTLE SOVERN look for   Curtis to stop by




Curtis has a website on British   Race Cars.

He doesnt know much about Triumphs so I introduced him to   Bob Wismer Dennis
Delap at VIR.

He did an extensive photo/journal on   the THUNDERBOLT and was working on
Dennis' new modified TVR the last I   knew.

He is in Seattle right now.  He will stop in to visit you NW   GUYS.

Very pleasant guy and an opportunity to showcase our Triumphs as   well
providing some owner with a rather comprehensive document on your   Triumph.

BRITISHRACECAR.COM    is the website, I   believe.

Joe A










_______________________________________________
Cwe mailing   list
Cwe at autox.team.net

Donate:   http://www.team.net/donate.html

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/cwe/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  1 08:29:16 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 10:29:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT list  attn: mark bradakis
In-Reply-To: <8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>,
	<8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <blu160-w20B61D5CD95DB7B47E7669BA5B0@phx.gbl>

The "31" is correct.  He must have wore out the "3" one.  :)

Marty




To: trmarty at hotmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT list attn: mark bradakis
From: n197tr4 at cs.com
CC: william.tobin31 at verizon.net
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:29:23 -0400


MARK B is the guy.

we dont want to lose Bill Tobin

i also have an address that shows only '3' instead of '31'      which is
correct?









-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:22 am
Subject: [Fot] FOT list


I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill
changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Fri Jul  1 11:05:45 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 13:05:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
Message-ID: <wyv5xxrqywm3f4vwu402jvxw.1309539945860@email.android.com>

Jim Norlin <norlinengineering at comcast.net> wrote:

>Second and welcome Bob & Becky - They are great folks and there is a TR6 
>involved.  They are getting married next weekend at the Portland 
>Historic Races.
>
>On 7/1/2011 5:38 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>>   Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
>> into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.
>>
>> Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others
>>
>> bob at nwspeedshots.com
>>
>> Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.
>>
>> I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY
>>
>> I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.
>>
>> Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Jul  1 20:25:10 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
Message-ID: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!! Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Jul  1 20:59:41 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:59:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <4E0E899D.60705@comcast.net>

I don't know about the arc grinding.  I expect if you found a shop 
that's been around for 50 years, they probably still have the 
capability.  I run Porterfield  shoes on the rear of my Spitfire.  Last 
summer, I was changing shoes (the day before the race naturally) and 
they wouldn't fit inside my drums.   Took a while to find a shop that 
could machine out the little things, but I finally did and was able to 
get them to work.  Ordered another set of new drums, so now I carry 2 
sets and should be able to field fit whatever I get sent.  Most often, I 
seem to find myself changing shoes at the track.

On 7/1/2011 7:25 PM, william r tobin wrote:
> Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
> weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
> Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
> nice race. Good luck at the race!
> I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
> I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!! Actually
> she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
> the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
> drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
> I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
> week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me
> a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
> rear linings.
> Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
> the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
> more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
> using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
> fit the drums?
> What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
> in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
> On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
> goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
> Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  1 22:02:01 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:02:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Saw Bob today at PNW Historics.  He stopped by our pits.  He said that he was
now part of FOT.  
Mike Mehl #46 TR4

From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: bob at nwspeedshots.com
Sent:
Friday, July 1, 2011 5:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH FOT NOMINATION
INCOMPLETE

Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated
and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for
VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are
scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on
TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please
welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Jul  2 03:07:42 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 11:07:42 +0200
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <000001cc3897$8360d440$8a227cc0$@com>

I use stock shoes from Lucas or any replacement type.
I have a set of racing Mintex shoes but never put them in so I don't know
how they would perform.
My rear cylinder are 1" of size.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von william r tobin
Gesendet: Samstag, 2. Juli 2011 04:25
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] I'm back

Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio
last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!!
Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend.
Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring
me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big
for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 04:52:05 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 06:52:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <8CE06BD376EAF9C-1798-3DD5D@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>

 Welcome back Bill,

I have always used stock rear shoes. Never tried anything else, but they seem
well suited for the job.

Will you be attending the PVGP?

Irv and I will be there be with our friends from WPTA and Tony Vigliotti.

Joe A.








-----Original Message-----
From: william r tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 9:37 pm
Subject: [Fot] I'm back


Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!!
Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring
me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 05:01:23 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 07:01:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>

 Bob and Becky are a great addition to the FOT group.

Watch for a report on their wedding the 9th of July

Question of the Day?

When you get married at Portland International, which side of the Start/Finish
Line do you stand on?








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>; mark <mark at bradakis.com>; fot
<fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: bob <bob at nwspeedshots.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 11:02 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE



Saw Bob today at PNW Historics.  He stopped by our pits.  He said that he was
now part of FOT.
Mike Mehl #46 TR4




From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: bob at nwspeedshots.com
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2011 5:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH FOT NOMINATION INCOMPLETE

Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Jul  2 07:12:07 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2011 06:12:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>

On 7/2/11 4:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> Question of the Day?
>
> When you get married at Portland International, which side of the Start/Finish
> Line do you stand on?
>    
Maybe both?

"I now pronounce you husband and wife.  You may now cross the start 
line, receive the green flag and kiss the bride"


Teriann

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 08:20:38 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 10:20:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com><1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
	<4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE06DA593FFA57-1A9C-1293A@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>

 Green Flag FOLLOWED by Checkered.










-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 2, 2011 8:23 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE


On 7/2/11 4:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> Question of the Day?
>
> When you get married at Portland International, which side of the
Start/Finish
> Line do you stand on?
>
Maybe both?

"I now pronounce you husband and wife.  You may now cross the start
line, receive the green flag and kiss the bride"


Teriann
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From rikrock at live.com  Sat Jul  2 13:55:00 2011
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:55:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Message-ID: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 19:57:35 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 19:57:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>

Steve Yott makes the best with a custom made impeller.

Jim G. 



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rich Rock
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 1:55 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 20:17:51 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 20:17:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines
Message-ID: <20110703022103.2E1DE18764C@autox.team.net>

FoT,

I have a little more play than I care for in my steering wheel. It comes
from the hub splines.

It's a new hub so wear isn't a factor. I had considered running a little tig
weld on the splines

and dress it down to fit snug.

Has anyone got any hot tips that don't require welding ?

 

Thanks as always,

 

Jim g

From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 21:10:35 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 20:10:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines
References: <20110703022103.2E1DE18764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <84C9F2EB082D4A5FA54741DA1955C056@Bud>

Did you examine the shaft splines?
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 7:17 PM
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines


> FoT,
>
> I have a little more play than I care for in my steering wheel. It comes
> from the hub splines.
>
> It's a new hub so wear isn't a factor. I had considered running a little 
> tig
> weld on the splines
>
> and dress it down to fit snug.
>
> Has anyone got any hot tips that don't require welding ?
>
>
>
> Thanks as always,
>
>
>
> Jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 22:45:32 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 00:45:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  I'm back (rear brake shoes)
Message-ID: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>

If you can not fit the shoes into the drum, and can not get a shop to arc  
them, file the metal ends of the shoes that fit into the adjuster and  
cylinder ends till the drums will fit with the required click or two of free  
play.  This is an emergency patch that I have used a number of times.   Check 
after the first session to see if the shoes have reasonable contact with  the 
drum. 
 Is anything bent or not aligned?
 
TR Regards,
Hardy
 

Date:  Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
From: "william r tobin"  <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] I'm  back
<snip>
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too  big 
for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out  .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm  also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake  linings 
to
fit the drums?
<snip>.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L.  Racing

From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  2 23:18:21 2011
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 22:18:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
References: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1309670301.59590.YahooMailRC@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greg Solow at The Engine Room makes a massively improved re-engineered oil pump, 
eliminates all the weak spots. Been using it for 3 race seasons.
Regards,
Gary Schneider
EP TR4 




________________________________
From: Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, July 2, 2011 2:55:00 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net

From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 23:33:21 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 01:33:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Colortune spark plugs
Message-ID: <1064.40dae6b7.3b415921@aol.com>

I first tried the colortune after the then "The Autocar" had a  positive 
test of it in the early 70s.
For a street car with SUs (or Stroms) it is great, because a  production 
car with SUs has the proper mixture set at idle, and the properly  maintained 
carb deals with the rest.  I have used it to help tune (the  carbs are the 
last thing to adjust) a few hundred cars.  My  1967 tow  car would make the 
Calif emission testers look on in wonder with the 3 SUs  purring away with 
very low emissions, and it still purrs at 257,000  miles. You can see a 
fraction of a SU "flat" adjustment.  Applied  physics. 
 The instructions make it clear that it is not to be used at high  
RPM/load.   NFI
 
Hardy
 
From:  sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
To:  fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Colortune spark plugs

Is anybody  using Colortune spark plugs to any advantage?  Jim in Folsom,  
CA

From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 23:40:48 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 01:40:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Freeing stuck pistons
Message-ID: <1139.5a6000de.3b415ae0@aol.com>

I always enjoyed the story that the Knock Off Hammer was for the wire  
wheels!
 
Been there, Hammered That,
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2011 7:06:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
To: billb <billb at bnj.com>;  kenandtweety <kenandtweety at yahoo.com>
Cc: fot  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 29, 2011 7:23 pm
Subject: Re:  [Fot] Freeing stuck pistons


It is just amazing how much you can  move with a BIG hammer and a short 
block
of wood if you don't have that  press handy. You buy the biggest hammer you
can
find and after thos job  you'll still have the hammer for furture work on  
fine
equipment.

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 00:37:28 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2011 23:37:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  I'm back (rear brake shoes)
In-Reply-To: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>
References: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E100E28.8090004@comcast.net>

I was thinking about doing this when that last set of shoes wouldn't 
fit.  Glad to hear it works in a pinch.

On 7/2/2011 9:45 PM, Catpusher at aol.com wrote:
> If you can not fit the shoes into the drum, and can not get a shop to arc
> them, file the metal ends of the shoes that fit into the adjuster and
> cylinder ends till the drums will fit with the required click or two of free
> play.  This is an emergency patch that I have used a number of times.   Check
> after the first session to see if the shoes have reasonable contact with  the
> drum.
>   Is anything bent or not aligned?
>
> TR Regards,
> Hardy
>
>
> Date:  Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
> From: "william r tobin"<william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
> To:<fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Fot] I'm  back
> <snip>
> Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too  big
> for
> the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out  .060 or
> more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm  also
> using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake  linings
> to
> fit the drums?
> <snip>.
> Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L.  Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 03:45:28 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 04:45:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>
References: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
	<20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyh-Hdu_y_2Gfbtb-P-iY1Bvg_k1c4DR_keq-J4=TR+XUA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 8:57 PM, Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> Steve Yott makes the best with a custom made impeller.
>


Steve currently is out of oil pumps is not likely to make up anymore.

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Sun Jul  3 07:44:51 2011
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:44:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>

From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 Timing
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:11:13 -0600





Good morning group, I just rebuilt my engine on my '69 Kmart TR6 (that means
it's safe to drive this one to Kmart) otherwise known as "Rusty".  I glanced
at the timing specs and set it at the 4 degrees at 800 of thereabouts.  I
broke in the cam and then, after plugging various oil leaks took her for a
spin.  The car felt fair but not as good as I would like so I came home and
put her to bed.  Most of the original vacuum set up is there, although not
properly hooked up.  I checked the timing yesterday and only one vacuum line
was hooked up.  Apparently this is the retard unit hooked up to a port
directly in front of the "5" stamped in the top of the carburetor.  This set
up hauls the advance backward at a progressively higher rate as you increase
rpms, ie 8-10 degrees at full advance.  The advance side of the distributor is
not hooked up.  I unplugged everything and set the timing at 30 degrees full
advance, but havent driven around the block.  There is another vacuum leak
every time I look at the thing. I lay all the blame for this directly at the
feet of the PREVIOUS OWNER.  I would also like to direct some blame to the BL
exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.

Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM


>
> Gary,
> The 69 TR6 has a little more complex distributor than what you're
> describing. It had a vacuum advance and a vacuum retard on the distributor
> and a system that operated the vacuum retard attached to the carbs. It also
> makes a difference where you connect your vacuum pipes. Some carbs have 2
> places to connect for vacuum. I've attached a page from The Roadster Factory
> blue book showing the vacuum pipes etc.
> I guess what I'm trying to tell you is if you don't have this system, which
> you probably don't because everyone took it off, you have to use a later
> spec to set the timing of your car. The later spec I believe used a quite
> different way of timing. Anyway, you need to understand which distributor
> you have and vacuum system and set the timing accordingly. Hope this helps.
> http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/51.php

From patrickmannion1 at netzero.net  Sun Jul  3 11:29:04 2011
From: patrickmannion1 at netzero.net (patrickmannion1 at netzero.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 17:29:04 GMT
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Message-ID: <20110703.102904.8675.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

We have seen the pin on the driven oil pump shaft on gears supplied by Moss
Motors come out and jam the oil pump gears causing failure, Greg Solow (Engine
Room Santa Cruz, CA 831 429-1800) has oil pump gears that the "pin" is
replaced with a threaded grub screw and the driven ear of the oil pump gear is
radiused to avoid the risk of the ear being a stress riser.
all the best,
Pat Mannion
Santa Cruz CA

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:55:00 -0400

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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____________________________________________________________
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  3 11:35:27 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 10:35:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>

> I would also like to direct some 
> blame to the BL
> exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.

Actually, I believe the vacuum retard was a US requirement.  Possibly you
could blame BL for trying to keep the vacuum advance, but since it does
improve things, that part seems like a good idea.

And BL was certainly not the only company to use "dueling" modules.  My 1970
Audi had exactly the same setup and still made almost 1 hp/ci.

As you've no doubt realized by now, the port on top of the carb is for the
vacuum advance.  The retard port (if you have one) is on the bottom.  And
there is a difference.

-- Randall  

From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Jul  3 12:58:56 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 18:58:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	, <A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>, ,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>,
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>,
	<009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W497E250770EC21469004ACDF5D0@phx.gbl>

To kind of set the record straight, B/L had one hell'va time (along with
everyone else) trying to meet the emission requirement from 1967 onward. Then,
on top of that, the DOT crash requirement.  So much so that  the money set
aside or budgeted for upgrading design and new models went into that research
file.  Too bad. I was part of the chase on the engine side and it was just
terrible the cost and effort at the time. Emission control was the very first
thing on everyone's agenda. Use of the modern electronic injection,  ignition
and catalytic converters would have solved it then, just as it has in the
present cars.
Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 10:35:27 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
>
> > I would also like to direct some
> > blame to the BL
> > exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.
>
> Actually, I believe the vacuum retard was a US requirement.  Possibly you
> could blame BL for trying to keep the vacuum advance, but since it does
> improve things, that part seems like a good idea.
>
> And BL was certainly not the only company to use "dueling" modules.  My
1970
> Audi had exactly the same setup and still made almost 1 hp/ci.
>
> As you've no doubt realized by now, the port on top of the carb is for the
> vacuum advance.  The retard port (if you have one) is on the bottom.  And
> there is a difference.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From gaf3 at charter.net  Sun Jul  3 13:28:46 2011
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Sun, 03 Jul 2011 15:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E10C2EE.7040403@charter.net>

Henry
I just went through the same process on a later model 1974 with a retard 
mechanism and a 1970 with dualing advance mechansisms.
I set the basic timing to 12deg BTDC, left the retard diaphragm without 
a vacuum line.  On the later model I left the only diaphragm (retard) 
unplugged to vacuum.
Depending on your setup, I had triple Strombergs and dual downdraft Webers,
the only required vacuum is for the advance if available, Booster, and 
Crankcase ventilation.
Performance should be good with that setup..
Good luck
Glenn
On 7/3/2011 9:44 AM, Henry Morrison wrote:
> From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 Timing
> Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:11:13 -0600
>
>
>
>
>
> Good morning group, I just rebuilt my engine on my '69 Kmart TR6 (that means
> it's safe to drive this one to Kmart) otherwise known as "Rusty".  I glanced
> at the timing specs and set it at the 4 degrees at 800 of thereabouts.  I
> broke in the cam and then, after plugging various oil leaks took her for a
> spin.  The car felt fair but not as good as I would like so I came home and
> put her to bed.  Most of the original vacuum set up is there, although not
> properly hooked up.  I checked the timing yesterday and only one vacuum line
> was hooked up.  Apparently this is the retard unit hooked up to a port
> directly in front of the "5" stamped in the top of the carburetor.  This set
> up hauls the advance backward at a progressively higher rate as you increase
> rpms, ie 8-10 degrees at full advance.  The advance side of the distributor is
> not hooked up.  I unplugged everything and set the timing at 30 degrees full
> advance, but havent driven around the block.  There is another vacuum leak
> every time I look at the thing. I lay all the blame for this directly at the
> feet of the PREVIOUS OWNER.  I would also like to direct some blame to the BL
> exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM

From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 13:35:07 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 12:35:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>

Amazing 3D printer
RB

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul  3 14:10:16 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 16:10:16 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <15cb5.9e31314.3b4226a8@aol.com>

That's not really new anymore but it is still expensive.  The actual  
printer is (was) only about $1500 but the buildup material is very  expensive.  
Turns out it's a gypsum mix sold by my previous employer.
 
At a trade show about five years ago they built us a pill bottle with a  
helix body  AND the screw on cap in about twenty minutes.  I think my  partner 
across town still has it....
 
 
In a message dated 7/3/2011 12:59:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
budscars at comcast.net writes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  3 14:13:48 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 13:13:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
In-Reply-To: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>
References: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>
Message-ID: <00b401cc39bd$b865c020$0301a8c0@randall>

> Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things), how they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid up for over 20 years because no one could find a
water pump, and Jay's people just printed one.

-- Randall  

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul  3 14:51:30 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 16:51:30 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>

So they've reached the stage of metal deposition?  See what happens  when 
you turn your back for five years? ;-))
 
 
In a message dated 7/3/2011 1:50:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

>  Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
>  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this  month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things),  how they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid  up for over 20 years because no one could find 
a
water pump, and Jay's  people just printed one.

-- Randall   
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  3 20:05:31 2011
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 19:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
In-Reply-To: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>
References: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1309745131.70076.YahooMailRC@web80802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Actually, the metal systems have been around for about 10 years. I've
been
involved with this technology since 1987. We use ABS and an
acrylic resin in
the two systems that I run. (Total of 4 machines).
My company has systems that
allow us to make sand castings
for engines and components as well as other
uses. I can't talk about
the other uses. There are service bureaus that will
make any parts
that you can design. You can also use 3D imaging devices to
capture
out of production designs. This is what Leno's Garage did a couple of
years ago to recreate a piece of unobtanium for one of his early engines.
See:
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/nextengines_3d_scanner/944641

Jaguar has
used Additive Manufactured parts on some of their production
vehicles as the
parts weren't available from the supplier. Great for low
production vehicles.
You can also see an AM bodied vehicle if you search
on Urbee. I have some
photos that I took at our annual conference in
Minneapolis if anyone would
like to see them.

Doug



----- Original Message ----
From:
"Gt6steve at aol.com" <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: TR3driver at ca.rr.com;
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, July 3, 2011 4:51:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] MAKE
YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?

So they've reached the stage of metal deposition? 
See what happens  when 
you turn your back for five years? ;-))


In a message
dated 7/3/2011 1:50:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com
writes:

>  Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
> 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this 
month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things),  how
they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid  up for
over 20 years because no one could find 
a
water pump, and Jay's  people just
printed one.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Jul  4 14:27:02 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 13:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
Message-ID: <1309811222.88810.YahooMailRC@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

What is the best method to time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a Crane
ignition module?  I am using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected.  The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone 
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Jul  4 16:15:20 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 16:15:20 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <1309811222.88810.YahooMailRC@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110704221838.6C0AC187663@autox.team.net>

Your altitude and cam have everything to do with timing.
What altitude do you drive and what kind/spec of cam ?

Jim G.


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sherry robyn
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 2:27 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

What is the best method to time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a
Crane
ignition module?  I am using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected.  The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone 
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Jul  4 20:17:53 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 19:17:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
Message-ID: <1309832273.24258.YahooMailRC@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Jim, sea level is my altitude and my cam is stock.  Jim
To:
sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, July 4,
2011 3:15:20 PM
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

Your
altitude and cam have everything to do with timing.
What altitude do you drive
and what kind/spec of cam ?

Jim G.


-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of
sherry robyn
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 2:27 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

What is the best method to
time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a
Crane
ignition module?  I am
using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected. 
The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not
used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to
time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought
to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing
light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher
rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Jul  5 07:54:46 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 09:54:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <4013B7ECFD0C40A4862270EF95F10E5D@gdhs.local>

Carbo-Tech....Charlotte/Concord......great linings and pads......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
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is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of william r tobin
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 10:25 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] I'm back


Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio
last weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty. Marty is taking his
Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a nice race. Good
luck at the race! I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard
if he is. I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a
girl!!! Actually she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time
all weekend. Traded the lead several times in the feature. Her husband
(They're from Mesa AZ) drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple. I did have
some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous week for
routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me a new
pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also rear
linings. Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem
too big for the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic
out .060 or more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them.
I'm also using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake
linings to fit the drums? What are you guys using for rear linings? Any
thoughts? I'm taking the drums in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get
better lining contact. On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup
on and like all his goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the
balance though. Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Jul  5 19:00:37 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 21:00:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Message-ID: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>

 Anything going on in  NM the next several days?

I have some business there that could be enhanced by automotive or aircraft
museums or activities.

Any suggestions? Equal parts of entertainment help validate my retirement.

JOE A.

From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  5 21:37:59 2011
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (Steven Groh)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 23:37:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ALBUQUERQUE, NM
In-Reply-To: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DA729CEA-BF26-40CB-A71B-230DAF797330@comcast.net>

Visit the Unser Museum in ABQ!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2011, at 9:00 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:

> Anything going on in  NM the next several days?
> 
> I have some business there that could be enhanced by automotive or aircraft
> museums or activities.
> 
> Any suggestions? Equal parts of entertainment help validate my retirement.
> 
> JOE A.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sgroh1 at comcast.net

From patrickmannion1 at netzero.net  Tue Jul  5 22:59:39 2011
From: patrickmannion1 at netzero.net (patrickmannion1 at netzero.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 04:59:39 GMT
Subject: [Fot] repeat 1500 Spitfire Head Gasket problems
Message-ID: <20110705.215939.12058.0@webmail19.vgs.untd.com>

Good evening,
I have a car that is getting the better of me.First engine had extensive work
done to it but machine shop installed a cylinder liner poorly resulting in
premature head gasket failure at the sealing surface between number 3 and 4
cylinder. Had to start again with a new block.

New engine was all gone though and re-bored (used oversize County pistons),
Payen head gasket (with correct sealing ring built into head gasket) and ARP
hardware. This "new engine" blew head gasket again with under 500 miles on
engine.

Engine did not over heat (has newly re-cored radiator, new thermostat and new
water pump), ignition timing is only 30 degrees total advance, premium gas,
9.5:1 compression, roller rockers, improved cam, ect......  Removed head, its
flat, block is flat. Head gasket is blown out right between cylinders 3 and 4
and just starting to go between cylinders 1 and 2. Recess in block is a
uniform .027" below the deck of the block on all four cylinder recesses.
Engine originally called for 46 ft/lb torque for head studs, I figured with
good ARP head bolts and nuts I could torque to 52 ft/lb cold with oil on the
threads. Measuring old fire ring crush surface versus new gasket it appeared
to crush about .010".

One posting I saw out of England was someone had used a set of .030" or .040"
pistons that had not been radiused and the edges of the piston crown ended up
touching the head gasket sealing ring causing it to fail head gaskets
prematurely. Another posting regarding repeat  1500 head gasket failure
suggested decking the block and bringing the recess down to .015" below the
deck of the block, others say remove the recess all together.

Has anyone experienced this before? My key question is what should be the
proper recess below the block? What would anyone suggest as head torque (cold
or hot and what lubricant to be used with hardware)?
thanks for your time,
Pat Mannion
Santa Cruz CA
_______________________________________________
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jul  7 08:49:42 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 10:49:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

So I took the bait and ordered a Denso racing alternator from DB 
Electrical. Nice unit. Mounting it was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 
being impossible. Easy, peasey.

So, here's my question: the alternator is supposed to be 
"self-exciting". Once you get to 3000 rpm, the thing should turn on. I was 
expecting to see the system voltage jump up a bit to 13-ish when the 
alternator turned on, but that is not the case. I get ROCK STEADY 12.06 
volts from when I start the car 'till I shut it off.

Can anyone else whoe's done the conversion comment on the operation of 
this setup?

Maybe I should be looking to use one of the other spade lugs on 
the alternator to get the thing to turn on?

Alternately confused,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu Jul  7 10:00:56 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 12:00:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <54E4E7C8161C4FB4AC18E280E2E09E23@gdhs.local>

Robert:   I have the same unit and it pumps out 14 from the moment I start
the car......this said, it is a race car and the output simply goes straight
to the hot side of the cut-off switch......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 10:50 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator


Hi,

So I took the bait and ordered a Denso racing alternator from DB
Electrical. Nice unit. Mounting it was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10
being impossible. Easy, peasey.

So, here's my question: the alternator is supposed to be
"self-exciting". Once you get to 3000 rpm, the thing should turn on. I was
expecting to see the system voltage jump up a bit to 13-ish when the
alternator turned on, but that is not the case. I get ROCK STEADY 12.06
volts from when I start the car 'till I shut it off.

Can anyone else whoe's done the conversion comment on the operation of
this setup?

Maybe I should be looking to use one of the other spade lugs on
the alternator to get the thing to turn on?

Alternately confused,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jul  7 12:06:01 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:06:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one I 
have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a big lug 
on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO spade lugs on 
the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in lamp connections - not 
sure on that.

But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and worst 
case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  7 13:43:21 2011
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:43:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>,
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w16DC3C0765BB1EB81C4F54B9410@phx.gbl>

Robert-

I just hooked up a 3 wire denso alternator on my 3A engine - you hook one
terminal to a switched power source, the other hooked into the ignition light.
Here's a good website link showing the hookup:
http://westfield-world.com/daihatsu_alternator.html

Randy



> Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:06:01 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: sjanzen at me.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
>
> Hi,
>
> The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one I
> have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a big lug
> on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO spade lugs on
> the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in lamp connections - not
> sure on that.
>
> But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and worst
> case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.
>
> regards,
> rml

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu Jul  7 17:40:19 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 17:40:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Is anybody else getting this ? Mailing list removal
 confirmation notice for mailing list Fot
Message-ID: <20110707234335.C63EE187652@autox.team.net>

Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list Fot

 

We have received a request from 71.39.52.61 for the removal of your email
address, "toodamnfunky at comcast.net" from the fot at autox.team.net mailing
list.  To confirm that you want to be removed from this mailing list, simply
reply to this message, keeping the Subject:

header intact.  Or visit this web page:

 

I have received this notification twice but did not request it.

Is anyone else getting this ?

 

Jim Gray

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Thu Jul  7 18:44:23 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 20:44:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Flag Deadline is Approaching!
Message-ID: <F969B68B-8AA5-46F4-BA91-D8BBBA4496C9@aol.com>

Amici,

Order your flag Soon!  


Details
2x3foot size
Logo is about 16 inches high
2 grommets
Indoor outdoor use
Material is great quality
I have a proof picture if your interested in seeing it.

I made the decision to go single sided. This means the words will be
reversed on the back.

Price is $15 each. Shipping is included.

Deadline to order is august 8, 2011.  I will place the order then and they
should be sent out to you by mid September.

Payments to paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or check to
Chris Bock
3630 Italia Ave
Vineland, NJ
08361

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322

From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul  7 20:32:18 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2011 21:32:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <20110708023242.A83A9187652@autox.team.net>

If it's like the GM alternator with two spade lugs showing, one of 
them needs to be connected to hot in order to turn it into a "one 
wire" alternator.

- Tony

At 01:06 PM 7/7/2011, Robert M. Lang wrote:
>Hi,
>
>The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one 
>I have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a 
>big lug on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO 
>spade lugs on the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in 
>lamp connections - not sure on that.
>
>But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and 
>worst case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.
>
>regards,
>rml
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 11:07:22 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 17:07:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Source  for TR4 crank plugs
Message-ID: <1519738514.294695.1310144842294.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Does anyone know where to buy TR4 crank plugs ? 

Thanks 



jimg 

From barry at penybryn.ca  Fri Jul  8 12:42:05 2011
From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 12:42:05 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
Message-ID: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash. 

This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
that I would seek additional expert advice.

So my question to the group is:

Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
the problem?

 

Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
question was put directly to them.

 

As always thanks for any help/advice provided.

 

Barry. 

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 13:49:00 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:49:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <1248003924.300545.1310154540223.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Fred Hodgeson installed mine and he didn't mention any problems.

I have the IRS diff. though with the 4.11 gears.



jimB  g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2011 12:42:05 PM
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation B B B B B B B B Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.

This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
that I would seek additional expert advice.

So my question to the group is:

Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
the problem?

B 

Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
question was put directly to them.

B 

As always thanks for any help/advice provided.

B 

Barry.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Jul  8 15:46:40 2011
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 16:46:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul  8 16:06:21 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 00:06:21 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
References: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <000e01cc3dbb$47687af0$d63970d0$@com>

response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

Total rubbish! 
Would never fit with a 3.7 gear set.

Wrong made item, return it I would suggest or machine the diff housing.

Cheers
Chris

From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 16:42:17 2011
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2011 18:42:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
References: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <4E1787C9.5090904@cfl.rr.com>

On 7/8/11 2:42 PM, Barry Munson wrote:
> Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
> gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
> conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
> simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
> the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
> to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.
>
> This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
> times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
> Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
> tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
> received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
> 3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
> face."
>
> While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
> that I would seek additional expert advice.
My Quaife with new 4:11 gears and bearings fits the TR3 Southwick 
convers just fine. You must have something else going on.

Bon
> So my question to the group is:
>
> Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
> set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
> conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
> the problem?
>
>
>
> Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
> you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
> question was put directly to them.
>
>
>
> As always thanks for any help/advice provided.
>
>
>
> Barry.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 17:03:33 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:03:33 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <24c70.2dab9532.3b48e6c5@aol.com>

Call Joe Siam at Chequred Flag racing to get the Harland Sharps.   Don't 
waste a penny on anything else especially the Titans from the UK.   When I 
damaged one they had ZERO interest in helping me and the US rep had to  jump 
thru extraordianry hoops to get one.  Kudoes to him but those  manufacturers 
are welcome to keep their junk.  I'd go on about the sloppy  oiling but I'm 
told they've fixed that.
 
Steve
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 4:00:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
riverside at southslope.net writes:

Who  sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de  armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 17:04:07 2011
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:04:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>

Contact Richard Good in PA. Top Shelf stuff! His parts look like art work.
They have two different ratios; 1.55:1 and 1.65:1. If you already have a hot
cam you may want to go with the 1.55 option. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:47 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From chasgee at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 18:04:08 2011
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 20:04:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
his products.

Chuck Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
art de armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Jul  8 19:11:56 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 21:11:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <224d6945-0f7e-4dcc-898d-341686083f68@blur>

Or, contact us. Better design rockers and lower cost. Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Spitfire Racing <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
To: riverside at southslope.net, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 23:04:07 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Contact Richard Good in PA. Top Shelf stuff! His parts look like art work.
They have two different ratios; 1.55:1 and 1.65:1. If you already have a hot
cam you may want to go with the 1.55 option. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:47 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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_______________________________________________
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From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 20:05:49 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 22:05:49 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>

When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU  
manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care about  
"the lesser" Triumphs.
 
I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but  
to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chasgee at aol.com writes:

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands  
behind
his products.

Chuck  Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
art de  armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri Jul  8 23:16:17 2011
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 23:16:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Quaife issues..?
Message-ID: <BLU151-ds201A1E193867FB71F1182FB7430@phx.gbl>

Fred Hodgson may have forgotten some ring gear bolt issues?
I'll let him speak for hid 'Great-Self'..!  Quaife aint the Saints you might
think... is all I'm sayin' mate !

#6 GT-6
RMVR

From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Jul  9 03:26:35 2011
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 19:26:35 +1000
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b3g2yzyAMq3q1J0x1tuLpAoa7Rdk6pkn+5Tvew8emeN+w@mail.gmail.com>

if have fitted 3.45 , 3.7, 4.1 & 4.5 ring & pinions to stock hemispheres
over the years and I dont ever recall this problem.

I cant see why the Quaiffe hemisphere would only suit one ratio as the ring
gear thickness changes to compensate for various ratios.

as far as i know,  the factory used the same hemisphere on the various
ratios. the only commonly found problem is the width of the cental pin in
plate type LSD's like Salisbury. These seem to have been made for the live
axle cars, so when fitted to a IRS, the stub axles have to be shortened.

i also suggest you have bought a dud
Terry

From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Jul  9 05:00:21 2011
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 07:00:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cc3e27$65ef4cd0$31cde670$@rr.com>

Well, I doubt he told you in that manner, but do keep in mind there are
tooling costs which are pretty high on any new product. If there's no market
for a considerable number of pieces it makes no sense from a business
standpoint regardless of the small handful who are disappointed. Actually
his manifolds were designed for triple Zenith-Stromburgs and not SUs. It's
only due to a few folks mounting up SUs on applications in TR-250/TR-6
successfully the perception came about they were "designed" for SUs. Realize
the dimensional differences between the two carbs. Space is tight in a GT-6
which is why the manifolds must drop. If there's clearance for a Stromburg,
there may not be for an SU setup with its higher domes. 
In the past I have had him make some custom pushrods for us and he did a
perfect job and quickly too. I have worked on a number of cars that have his
products in them and to the best of my awareness, there have been no
failures or complaints. He's not running a hobby, it's a business with high
levels of customer satisfaction and customer service. I might also add he
competes in a Triumph also.

Russ Moore 
Spitfire #49
Twin Pine Restoration

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Gt6steve at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:06 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com; chasgee at aol.com
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU  
manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care
about  
"the lesser" Triumphs.
 
I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but  
to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chasgee at aol.com writes:

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands  
behind
his products.

Chuck  Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
art de  armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 06:12:41 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 08:12:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>

 ART,

you may want to discuss what the engine will be expected to do.

and what the customer expects.

Harland-Sharp is a high volume producer of attractive looking rockers.

GoodParts adds features and benefits to a purpose designed assembly.

APT in Riverside may be able to shed light on what they do for various states
of tune, as they are a builder of 'small block' engines, as well as a supplier
of parts.

I have no direct experience with roller rockers, but it seems like a good
topic of discussion for the FOT. I'd like to learn more.

I know that at least one FOT became convinced that his after market rocker had
some geometry problems and set them aside.  (USED ON TR3/4 ENGINES) However,
there is usually more to the story.

Good question, Art.










-----Original Message-----
From: chasgee <chasgee at aol.com>
To: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
his products.

Chuck Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
art de armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Jul  9 07:00:17 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:00:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GoodParts
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU160-w186B6658CD85C24D083400BA430@phx.gbl>

Wow, I've known Richard for a couple of decades and that would be TOTALLY out
of character for him, but I was not there. Richard started his business
specializing in the TR6 line and that is probably what he was still tooled up
for back then. He is doing some other Triumph parts but they are not listed on
his website so it would not hurt to call.  I concur with Chuck, his quality is
top notch.  My only problem with Richard is he always beats me autoxing :)
Marty
 > From: Gt6steve at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 22:05:49 -0400
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com; chasgee at aol.com
> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care
about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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>
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul  9 07:04:17 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:04:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E683E02CF1E94372B201130A62D94F85@userb38463fba5>

Steve and others. This is not the Richard Good that I know. You've gone a 
bit far in your condemnation of one of the really good (no pun intended) 
guys in our hobby. I've had personal experience with Richard as he developed 
a part for a TR4A. He's humble and unassuming and goes about his business in 
a very professional way. Yes he limited his products to the IRS cars and 
specifically the TR6's for the most part. Developing a cast manifold for the 
GT6 would be an expensive development that a small business has a hard time 
funding with no knowledge of potential sales. Perhaps if you'd fund the 
effort he would apply his excellent engineering skills to the development. 
Would you be willing to make that investment? If no then don't criticize him 
for the same conclusion.

I doubt very much that he would ever tell someone to F off as you stated. 
There must be more to this story.

By the way I really like GT6's especially when race prepared. I remember the 
Group 44 Glory Days seeing and hearing their GT6's at Mid-Ohio and Watkins 
Glen. There is a special sound of a 6 cylinder Triumph at full song.

JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: <Gt6steve at aol.com>; <chasgee at aol.com>
Cc: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care 
> about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> orums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Jul  9 09:20:12 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 11:20:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E1871AC.4010603@bright.net>

Joe & List.  We sell only Harland Sharp and have for 20 years. Good 
product, tons of experience (they were the first ones to develop a 
roller rocker for small block Chev circa 1960) and great tech support. 
Rockers have a feature that oils both the rocker tip and the push rod 
cup. We supply these with bronze rocker shaft  bushings.  You will see 
roller rockers advertised with needle bearings for the rocker shaft.  
There are some issues with needle bearings.  #1- oil has a tendency to 
"fall out"of the needle bearings due to needle bearing design. This is 
fine if you are pulling rocker assembly for inspection regularly (as in 
every week-end). #2 - since the rocker arm rotates only a small distance 
around the rocker shaft, and needle bearings are very hard by design, 
this create the potential for severe shaft wear. Needle bearings are 
great for supporting a spinning shaft, such as internal gear box parts, 
but they ride in lubrication all the time and they are supporting the 
entire shaft, not just a small area of the shaft.  If you have an engine 
that lives at high revs, good size rocker shaft diameter, excellent 
oiling and checked often (smallblock Chevy sprint car engines, NASCAR, 
etc) needle bearings will work (but so does their budget for tear down 
and rebuild). Extremely high ratio rockers unless coupled with very low 
rate valve springs are death on the valve train  Ted


On 7/9/2011 8:12 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>   ART,
>
> you may want to discuss what the engine will be expected to do.
>
> and what the customer expects.
>
> Harland-Sharp is a high volume producer of attractive looking rockers.
>
> GoodParts adds features and benefits to a purpose designed assembly.
>
> APT in Riverside may be able to shed light on what they do for various states
> of tune, as they are a builder of 'small block' engines, as well as a supplier
> of parts.
>
> I have no direct experience with roller rockers, but it seems like a good
> topic of discussion for the FOT. I'd like to learn more.
>
> I know that at least one FOT became convinced that his after market rocker had
> some geometry problems and set them aside.  (USED ON TR3/4 ENGINES) However,
> there is usually more to the story.
>
> Good question, Art.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: chasgee<chasgee at aol.com>
> To: riverside<riverside at southslope.net>; fot<fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside<riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
> art de armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net
>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 13:05:59 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 15:05:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] HARLAND SHARP   1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0C754F8F4AFA-10A8-12963@webmail-d013.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC><8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com><8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
	<4E1871AC.4010603@bright.net>
	<8CE0C754F8F4AFA-10A8-12963@webmail-d013.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0C825F213511-1198-16ED6@webmail-d049.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: tedtsimx <tedtsimx at bright.net>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


----Original Message-----



 WHAT TED SAID.   SEE BELOW MY NOTE.......................
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------

It would seem that Harland Sharp and a hardened rocker arm shaft would likely
satisfy most applications while being cost effective, as Ted says.

Harland Sharp has a comprehensive website....it also lists most of your
favorite distributors and most of the distributors have pricing so you can go
shopping on price.

I cant speak to geometry.

One FOT is very satisfied with his Harland Sharp and hardened shaft.... and
looked closely at the geometry. This is on a TR6.

Another FOT seemed concerned about the geometry for the TR3/TR4 from HS. He
was a mechanical engineer, but  it is only hearsay in either case.

Somebody else out there may have studied this in depth and has come to a
factual conclusion.

I'd be interested in more information. I have a set of Harland Sharps on the
shelf I have never used. Might be cool on the AMBRO or on my street TR3A.

ANYONE?

Joe A/



From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 11:48 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Joe & List.  We sell only Harland Sharp and have for 20 years. Good
product, tons of experience (they were the first ones to develop a
roller rocker for small block Chev circa 1960) and great tech support.
Rockers have a feature that oils both the rocker tip and the push rod
cup. We supply these with bronze rocker shaft  bushings.  You will see
roller rockers advertised with needle bearings for the rocker shaft.
There are some issues with needle bearings.  #1- oil has a tendency to
"fall out"of the needle bearings due to needle bearing design. This is
fine if you are pulling rocker assembly for inspection regularly (as in
every week-end). #2 - since the rocker arm rotates only a small distance
around the rocker shaft, and needle bearings are very hard by design,
this create the potential for severe shaft wear. Needle bearings are
great for supporting a spinning shaft, such as internal gear box parts,
but they ride in lubrication all the time and they are supporting the
entire shaft, not just a small area of the shaft.  If you have an engine
that lives at high revs, good size rocker shaft diameter, excellent
oiling and checked often (smallblock Chevy sprint car engines, NASCAR,
etc) needle bearings will work (but so does their budget for tear down
and rebuild). Extremely high ratio rockers unless coupled with very low
rate valve springs are death on the valve train  Ted

From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 10 10:19:18 2011
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 09:19:18 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Not Triumph Related: Here's an interesting U-joint type
 mechanical device from down under
References: <33FDF17C-DD84-45F3-BB8F-323F2458B08E@stevebelfer.com>
Message-ID: <94B1BA0D-3A56-42B6-9645-6E78AD4EBDA5@earthlink.net>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgQgm3GwaFs



~Steve

From Catpusher at aol.com  Sun Jul 10 20:37:23 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 22:37:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Quaife and 4.1 Installation     Issues TR3
Message-ID: <5aca8.1f91c8d1.3b4bbbe3@aol.com>

The only problem that I had with 2 Quaifes that I did for other  people was 
that the factory Hand Press collets could not get behind the  side brgs. to 
remove them.
Is the pinion Depth correct?
Who made the 4.1 R & P ?
Quaife problem as mentioned by others?
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 8:02:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation  Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly  from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for  installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what  should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be  one royal PITA. Simply put 
with
the pinion installed with the correct  preload, even with all the shims 
moved
to one side of the carrier there is  no way to get any backlash. 

This has been driving my installer crazy  as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage  heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock  cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails  requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that  our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to  Machine the crown wheel
face."

<snip>

Barry.  

From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 10 21:59:35 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 20:59:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Message-ID: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.
 
Mike Mehl #46
 
The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).
 
Thanks!!!!!!!

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 11 07:00:10 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:00:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
In-Reply-To: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0DE199BA70B9-818-36794@webmail-m173.sysops.aol.com>

 we have original axle   #1 prototype.

never a problem with oil leaking or bearings.

let us know what you find out.

congratulations on three races with no major failures.

TR4 #197 is going well and we are looking forward to second race on this
engine.

Joe A.








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2011 11:42 pm
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)


My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.

Mike Mehl #46

The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).

Thanks!!!!!!!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 11 07:31:06 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:31:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers (fwd)
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107110929210.4826@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I spaced and sent this to a list member when I meant to send to the whil 
list. The question came up about "which issue of CMS", I I forget, but 
most likely a late 2010 or early 2011 edition.

l8r,
rml

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:58:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert M. Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Hi,

I might also point out that Classic Motorsports ran a great article on the 
various aspects of roller rockers. Lots of details and some dyno pulls to back 
up the conclusions. Def. worth the read.

I have them on my TR6 autocrosser (1.5:1) and the geometry seems to be correct 
and I have no odd issues.  I just took my time and measured / observed 
everything and I've had no issues. FWIW, I'm running a Isky Z19 cam with 
.410-ish lift.

Failure points in my past have been broken rockers (stock) and broken pedestals 
(stock). But the tubular pushrods and pedestals from Goodparts are ROCK SOLID 
and the H/S roller rockers (from Ted) work perfectly even after some wierd 
"cock-ups" on my part - like the time I left the adjuster screw loose and the 
pushrod popped out. That mishap dinged the rocker, but no craks or drama. I 
didn't even mess a session.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon Jul 11 07:53:28 2011
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 13:53:28 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Message-ID: <20110711.095328.7393.1@webmail07.dca.untd.com>

Mike, there is an O-ring on the outer periphery of the bearing. The O-ring may
be cut and leaking or missing?  These are also sealed bearings.  You may have
had a seal failure, in which case you would need to replace the bearing.  This
is Moser part number 9507F.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 20:59:35 -0700 (PDT)

My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.

Mike Mehl #46

The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).

Thanks!!!!!!!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net


____________________________________________________________
57 Year Old Mom Looks 27!
Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4e1b008f1c4293397cdst06duc

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 11 08:05:00 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 10:05:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107110951490.4826@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I had some time to play with my alternator setup this weekend. Turns out 
that I have two lines coming from the dash, one is ignition, the other - 
I'M NOT SURE WHAT IT IS/WAS. In any case, with the proper wire on the 
alternator, I get 13.9-ish volts everywhere! YAEAH!

I need to trace the wires now, but I have a sinking feeling that my 
low-ish output from my Lucas ACR17 was a wiring problem and not an 
alternator problem. No worries, though - the new alternator weighs a 
couple pounds less and I can probably scrounge up a replacement at a NAPA 
if the thing ever dies unexpectedly.

In any case, I've moved this upgrade to "VERY WORTHWHILE" status.

DB Electrical - Chevy mini-alternator (40 amp output). Less than $80 to 
your house for a NEW alternator that works. Cheaper than a rebuild!

Gee, if I install the aluminum radiator and a braille battery in the next 
week or so, I might get my car closer to my class min weight for the 
SCCA Solo NEDivs... that'd be pretty kewl.

l8r,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Jul 11 08:56:50 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:56:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
In-Reply-To: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110711145708.AD3EC18765A@autox.team.net>

You may have a defective sealed bearing.  Should be a standard part 
for a Ford 8" rear axle.

Tony

At 10:59 PM 7/10/2011, Mike Mehl wrote:
>My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
>through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
>anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.
>
>Mike Mehl #46
>
>The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
>(not spun bearings).
>
>Thanks!!!!!!!

From goodparts at verizon.net  Mon Jul 11 09:08:04 2011
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 11:08:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <97DACC3BE98D4FC596F995314182AA47@AdminPC>

Steve,

I am very sorry that I offended you.  I do not recall the conversation but 
assume you were inquiring about a manifold for MK1 GT6 because I have been 
making triple manifolds for the later GT6's since 1996.

I started the business in 1993 while still holding a full time day job.  In 
2001 I took on a more demanding day job and with the side business growing 
rapidly, I was working many late nights and Saturdays to keep up with 
orders.  So in 2002 I was not in a position to take on any new development 
projects.  No prejudice against the smaller Triumphs.  Just no time to 
invest in the project.  My day job ended in mid 2009 and I have been in the 
parts business full time since then.  It is still growing and keeping me 
very busy.  I get lots of suggestions for new products but time for 
development is still limited and must be focused on projects with the most 
potential.

Regards,
Richard Good
Good Parts Inc.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: <Gt6steve at aol.com>; <chasgee at aol.com>
Cc: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care 
> about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________

From goodparts at verizon.net  Mon Jul 11 13:38:55 2011
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 15:38:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>

Needle bearings are widely used and well proven in rockers.  I did a search 
some time ago and all the roller rocker manufacturers I could find were 
using needle bearings at the shaft and the better ones had needle bearings 
in the roller also.  Harland Sharp's web site lists roller rockers for a 
whole host of applications and from what I could find all, except those for 
use MG and Triumph, have needle bearings at the shaft.  I could not 
determine if they had needle bearings in the roller or not.  I assume they 
had to use bronze bushings in the MG and Triumph rockers because they do not 
make a shaft for those applications.  A good hard shaft of correct design is 
required for needle bearings.  Do not try to run them on a replacement 
original shaft, even if it has been nitrided.  It will not hold up.  The 
right needle bearing riding on the right shaft will run much longer than any 
bronze bushing.

I designed and started production of roller rockers for the Triumph six 
cylinder and small four cylinders in 1993 and a few years later for the big 
four cylinder.  Since then I have sold over 650 sets and all have had needle 
bearings at the shaft.  Since 1996 all have had needle bearings in the 
roller.  They are holding up just fine.  My design has oil channels feeding 
to the roller and the push rod cup and control of oil spill from the ends of 
the needle bearings.

Regards,
Richard Good
Good Parts Inc.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <riverside at southslope.net>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:46 PM
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
>
> art de armond

From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Jul 11 14:33:57 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 20:33:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
In-Reply-To: <51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>,
	<51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W22967E509A39F629E7BEFEDF450@phx.gbl>

As usual, you research things, then quietly build great parts. I am booster of
yours, as you know.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: goodparts at verizon.net
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 15:38:55 -0400
> Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
>
> Needle bearings are widely used and well proven in rockers.  I did a search
> some time ago and all the roller rocker manufacturers I could find were
> using needle bearings at the shaft and the better ones had needle bearings
> in the roller also.  Harland Sharp's web site lists roller rockers for a
> whole host of applications and from what I could find all, except those for
> use MG and Triumph, have needle bearings at the shaft.  I could not
> determine if they had needle bearings in the roller or not.  I assume they
> had to use bronze bushings in the MG and Triumph rockers because they do not
> make a shaft for those applications.  A good hard shaft of correct design is
> required for needle bearings.  Do not try to run them on a replacement
> original shaft, even if it has been nitrided.  It will not hold up.  The
> right needle bearing riding on the right shaft will run much longer than any
> bronze bushing.
>
> I designed and started production of roller rockers for the Triumph six
> cylinder and small four cylinders in 1993 and a few years later for the big
> four cylinder.  Since then I have sold over 650 sets and all have had needle
> bearings at the shaft.  Since 1996 all have had needle bearings in the
> roller.  They are holding up just fine.  My design has oil channels feeding
> to the roller and the push rod cup and control of oil spill from the ends of
> the needle bearings.
>
> Regards,
> Richard Good
> Good Parts Inc.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:46 PM
> Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> > Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
> >
> > art de armond
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Mon Jul 11 16:12:19 2011
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 16:12:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] FW: TR-8 (for Sale)
In-Reply-To: <1309993586.72647.YahooMailRC@web59610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1309993586.72647.YahooMailRC@web59610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w419607C419038E1C3F467E90450@phx.gbl>

Hello group, this TR8 will come up for sale here in Albuquerque and I can't or
rather shouldn't but still want to buy it.  If there is anyone interested in
the car contact me or Jake directly, we have no financial interest in it yet.
Cheers Henry Morrison, 505-259-1537.



Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 16:06:26 -0700
From: kekjacobsen at yahoo.com
Subject: TR-8
To: dos_gusanos at msn.com






Henry,
Not sure why, but our dumb email didn't pick up your address last time we
chatted. Anyhow, It's a 1980 TR-8 with 5000 original miles that's been in
storage for "a long time" but indoors so no rust. Will likely need a soft
restoration. He has no idea what he wants for it, but I'm assuming he's fairly
motivated as his wife has suddenly asked for a divorce...ouch!

Have a good one!
Thanks,
Jake

From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Mon Jul 11 22:41:24 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 21:41:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Source  for TR4 crank plugs
References: <1519738514.294695.1310144842294.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7480354160714DAAB91F71875AAD7EC5@your89d26e0447>

they are standard 1/4" pipe plugs with an allen hex drive. we have them in 
stock.
                                                                             
                                    Greg Solow
                                                                             
                                    831 4291800 

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 12 04:56:46 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 06:56:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
BeaveRun:
Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's kinda
like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same time!)
You'll do fine Marty.
Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
Me in my 70 TR6.
I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
are a good bunch.
See you there.
Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
farm)

From rikrock at live.com  Tue Jul 12 05:48:44 2011
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 07:48:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>

That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.

Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump thanks
to this list)

No Scott Janzen?

Rich Rock

-----Original Message-----
From: william r tobin
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun

Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
BeaveRun:
Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
kinda
like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
time!)
You'll do fine Marty.
Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
Me in my 70 TR6.
I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
are a good bunch.
See you there.
Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
farm)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock at live.com

From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Tue Jul 12 05:52:36 2011
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 07:52:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
Message-ID: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>

I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what  
size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in  
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to  
the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but  
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8  
gallon cell.  Don

--

From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Jul 12 06:29:28 2011
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott janzen)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:29:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
References: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1B3A4A71-7822-4DE0-88DF-210C308687FF@me.com>

Yep GT6 is on the list, if my day job work gets done!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.
> 
> Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump thanks
> to this list)
> 
> No Scott Janzen?
> 
> Rich Rock
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: william r tobin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
> 
> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
> kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
> time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock at live.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 12 06:34:39 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:34:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
References: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3E7B6847B8BB48B19FB85AF3B72FDC83@owner8914bbf7f>

Oops, sorry, Scott will be there.
A thousand pardons Scott. I somehow missed his your name! Hope to see your 
GT6 Friday.
Thanks Rich, for the reminder.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich Rock" <rikrock at live.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] BeaveRun


> That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.
>
> Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump 
> thanks
> to this list)
>
> No Scott Janzen?
>
> Rich Rock
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: william r tobin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
>
> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP 
> at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
> kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
> time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from 
> him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG 
> guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock at live.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 12 13:07:40 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:07:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers (fwd)
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107121506470.12517@isis.mit.edu>

Gary Hunter reminds me:

  CMS  MARCH 2011  issue  149  page 77  ROLLER ROCKERS      Cheers  gary
Gary Hunter
Reader Services
Grassroots Motorsports / Classic Motorsports
gary at grassrootsmotorsports.com
386-239-0523


tnx, Gary.

Love the mag.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 14:43:58 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (norlinengineering at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 13:43:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
Message-ID: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>

I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8  
inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I figure  
one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than  
that.l

Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size

I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what  
size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in  
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to  
the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but  
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8  
gallon cell.  Don

--
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Tue Jul 12 14:57:47 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 16:57:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <897BAE68-A8EE-406B-94BF-BF1124733321@aol.com>

I will be there but not racing. I will be crewing for any triumph that needs
me.  Mainly I will be crewing for a MGA, Formula Vee, and a bug eye.

I will have some grill badges and will be taking orders for flags.  Cash,
check, and hopefully Credit cards.


See ya'll there

Chris

PS  where is the grotto?


On Jul 12, 2011, at 6:56 AM, william r tobin wrote:

> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP
at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>
>

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322

From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 15:25:44 2011
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (Steven Groh)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:25:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
	<a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <9D5D7781-BB01-43CC-9F13-38367CFE97DD@comcast.net>

8 gallon has worked for me on all tracks in the NE

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2011, at 2:43 PM,
"norlinengineering at comcast.net"<norlinengineering at comcast.net> wrote:

> I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8
> inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I figure
> one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than
> that.l
>
> Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
> To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
>
> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sgroh1 at comcast.net

From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 15:58:07 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 14:58:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
	<a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <504D2C3F237348E7A2848FB3EB74CFCC@Bud>

I use an 8 gallon cell in my Spitfire..
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: "Don Marshall" <donmarshall at nefcom.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size


> I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8
> inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I 
> figure
> one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than
> that.l
>
> Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
> To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
>
> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net

From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 21:16:16 2011
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 03:16:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <390964174.531052.1310526976378.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

8 gallons is just enough for my 1500 in a 45 min scca national race. 
Aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net
To: Don Marshall &lt;donmarshall at nefcom.net&gt;, fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 20:43:58 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire. I like it because it's 8 
inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake. I figure 
one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks. I never use more than 
that.l
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what 
size cells are most commonly used. Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in 
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to 
the paddock. It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but 
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8 
gallon cell. Don
--
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From rocky at spitfire4.com  Tue Jul 12 22:44:47 2011
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 23:44:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
Message-ID: <E352DFAEE8FF44C0950008957ABEFAE8@rocky>

Eight gallons here. ATL cell.

I usually never fill it to the 8-gallon mark -- people get all excited when 
the overflow vent actually overflows a little (Geez, people, it'll evaporate 
before you can get the kitty litter). Lately I go out with 5-6 gallons for a 
race and come in with 2-3 depending on race length.

BTW, I got mine with dual pickups, one duckfoot in each back corner,  and 
run them to dual fuel pumps (twin Holley reds, which tee into one fuel line 
going forward and choked down to 2.5 psi at the regulator). Even with less 
than a gallon, I have fuel to the carbs.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Marshall" <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:52 AM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size


> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com

From Catpusher at aol.com  Wed Jul 13 12:33:38 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 14:33:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Quaife and 4.1 Installation     Issues TR3
Message-ID: <493.1a72c4cd.3b4f3f02@aol.com>

Hi Barry,

Where did you find the 4.1 R & P?

The pinion head bearing (factory PN# 100897) was Timken cup 3120, but the
inner race was 3188-S.  The "S" denotes a modification from normal.   The OD
of the pinion shaft was a size that required a slightly oversize ID in  the
brg.  This is the most important brg. in a TR diff. setup.

TR Regards,

Hardy


In a message dated 7/11/2011 3:58:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
barry at penybryn.ca writes:


Hi Hardy b Thanks  for your input. Based on the content of all the
suggestions and advice that I  have received so far, two consistent facts have
surfaced. First there is no  way that Quaife would have manufactured a case
that
only fit one ratio and the  second was to check the pinion depth. At the
time I ordered the pinion  bearings I could not source the original Timken
ones
and had to settle for  aftermarket bexactb replicas (probably Chinese as
there are no markings other  than a number). While the numbers and dimensions
appear to be the same as the  stock ones, the large bearing is definitely
different in construction and sits  higher in the cup. The correct
replacement bearings arrived today so webll  see.
Thanks  again.
Barry.



From:  Catpusher at aol.com [mailto:Catpusher at aol.com]
Sent: July-10-11 8:37  PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc:  barry at penybryn.ca
Subject: Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1  Installation Issues TR3


The  only problem that I had with 2 Quaifes that I did for other people was
 that the factory Hand Press collets could not get behind the side brgs. to
 remove them.

Is  the pinion Depth correct?

Who  made the 4.1 R & P ?

Quaife  problem as mentioned by others?



Hardy




In a  message dated 7/8/2011 8:02:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation  Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife  directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new  bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential  housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation  process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put
with
the pinion  installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims
moved
to one  side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.

This has  been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all  the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage  is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line  twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the  following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio  directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown  wheel
face."

<snip>

Barry.

From igofaster at att.net  Thu Jul 14 19:55:04 2011
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 18:55:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
Message-ID: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Looking for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...

Bobby Whitehead

From Gt6steve at aol.com  Thu Jul 14 20:17:26 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 22:17:26 EDT
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
Message-ID: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>

Dime a dozen.  Go to Hyperco or Eibach and make your pick.  Cheap  and 
plentiful in any rate you desire.  Hell, I think I have some 650's I'll  give 
ya....
 
 
In a message dated 7/14/2011 7:13:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
igofaster at att.net writes:

Looking  for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...

Bobby  Whitehead
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com

From gasket.works at gte.net  Fri Jul 15 21:43:46 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 03:43:46 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Tr6/gt6 Crankshaft
Message-ID: <1711856035-1310787828-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-372154456-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

All;

If interested in a custom billet tr6 / gt6 crankshaft with full counter balancing, dummy (false main) with  either open rod journals or solid cross drilled journals. Please let me know.  I will try to get a photo of the cnc cad mock up drawing on the fot site for eval.  Cost is about $2400.oo +fob.  Shipping from UK.  You spec out rod and main size, short or long BUTT and flywheel holes.  The material is certified  EN40B steel.  

 I have three takers now.  Moldex charges double that.  Price will drop @ 5 orders. 

Let me know off line.

NFI (except saving $)

Mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Jul 16 07:39:29 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:39:29 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 / gt6 crank
Message-ID: <650815302-1310823569-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-943340943-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

http://www.fot-racing.com/tr6crank.htm

For those interested here is a CAD mock up of two crankshft designs.  From they weigh perhaps 27kg or so.  The open rod journals design may have a bit less weight ..may spin faster.  I suspect this thread could grow regarding which design is better for vintage racing....

M


Contact 

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul 16 11:21:35 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 11:21:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
Message-ID: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>

Fot

I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.

I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on that
subject.

It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
between the valves and toward the 

intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.

Any comments ?

 

Thanks,

jim g

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Jul 16 20:10:42 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 21:10:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
References: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>

NGK BP-7-HS, 0.030".

Tony Drews
TR-4 #95

At 12:21 PM 7/16/2011, Jim Gray wrote:
>Fot
>
>I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
>
>I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on that
>subject.
>
>It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
>between the valves and toward the
>
>intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
>
>Any comments ?
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>jim g

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jul 16 20:46:06 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 20:46:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>
References: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
	<20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4E224CEE.4070903@bradakis.com>

 > I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.

I usually use NGK or Autolite.  Gapped at 025 for points cars, 35 for ones
with any sort of electronic ignition like Pertronix.

mjb.

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sat Jul 16 21:24:58 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:24:58 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
Message-ID: <501d.3471e6cc.3b53b00a@aol.com>

ISTR that the plug is indexed to the intake valve to cool the plug with the 
 incoming a/f charge.  As for spark plugs, I don't know what the racers are 
 using.  I use NGK BP6ES in by street TR6/GT6.  HTH.
 
Sam Clark
 
 
Fot

I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and  favorite gaps.

I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions  seem to vary on that
subject.

It's been said that it's best to index  the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
between the valves and toward the  

intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.

Any comments  ?



Thanks,

jim  g

From cartravel at pobox.com  Sun Jul 17 09:22:46 2011
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 10:22:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>
References: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>
Message-ID: <4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>

Oops, I fogot to send my original reply to the list.  Several 1% 
improvements could add up.  In my limited experience with dynos (mostly 
low horespower motors), it seems like multiple pulls will frequently 
show a 1% difference.  Other opinions?

On 7/16/2011 10:30 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> Larry,
> We have some local Ford GT350 racers/tuners that see 1.2% gain on the dyno
> on a 470 HP motor when the plugs are indexed. The whole issue came up when
> discussing several small improvements that add up to time gained on-track.
> I'm still improving my driving skills but won't pass up an opportunity to
> improve the car wherever I can.
>
>
> jim g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Young [mailto:cartravel at pobox.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 5:38 PM
> To: Jim Gray
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
>
> I like NGK BP7HS for a hotted up TR3/4.  One notch colder than stock.
>
> Is the effect of indexing measurable on a dyno?  I wonder.  If it's not
> measurable, that would explain the variety of opinions.  It's so great
> to talk about differences that can't be measured.
>
>
> On 7/16/2011 12:21 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
>> Fot
>>
>> I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
>>
>> I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on
> that
>> subject.
>>
>> It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
>> between the valves and toward the
>>
>> intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
>>
>> Any comments ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> jim g
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Sun Jul 17 10:13:52 2011
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:13:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Part Number ID help!!!
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey Members,

I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??

Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
the part

Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
Gear reduction starter    R-33037
Koni Shocks                 80-1005
Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
1.88"
Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
starter on passenger side
Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
56
Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
27B6, 0589
Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
insert, 50-522
Pistons                         17753B
Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
is 6.0"
Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???

Thanks so much for any help you an provide.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com

From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Jul 17 10:30:55 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:30:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>
References: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>,
	<4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W27589C30CDD4EF10577EEEDF4B0@phx.gbl>

I have no experience with this method, but will say that the location of the
beginning of the flame front in the combustion chamber should have an effect.
I would think that shortening the time to the section prone to detonation
(the hot side, exhaust) would give a favorible result and allow a smidge more
ignition timing. I don't think that the small amount of direction change would
have much effect on the flow down over the plug from the inlet valve although
that is very important in heat range or extended nose type plugs. MY opinion.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 10:22:46 -0500
> From: cartravel at pobox.com
> To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec
motor
>
> Oops, I fogot to send my original reply to the list.  Several 1%
> improvements could add up.  In my limited experience with dynos (mostly
> low horespower motors), it seems like multiple pulls will frequently
> show a 1% difference.  Other opinions?
>
> On 7/16/2011 10:30 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> > Larry,
> > We have some local Ford GT350 racers/tuners that see 1.2% gain on the
dyno
> > on a 470 HP motor when the plugs are indexed. The whole issue came up
when
> > discussing several small improvements that add up to time gained
on-track.
> > I'm still improving my driving skills but won't pass up an opportunity to
> > improve the car wherever I can.
> >
> >
> > jim g
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Young [mailto:cartravel at pobox.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 5:38 PM
> > To: Jim Gray
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec
motor
> >
> > I like NGK BP7HS for a hotted up TR3/4.  One notch colder than stock.
> >
> > Is the effect of indexing measurable on a dyno?  I wonder.  If it's not
> > measurable, that would explain the variety of opinions.  It's so great
> > to talk about differences that can't be measured.
> >
> >
> > On 7/16/2011 12:21 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> >> Fot
> >>
> >> I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
> >>
> >> I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on
> > that
> >> subject.
> >>
> >> It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust
valve,
> >> between the valves and toward the
> >>
> >> intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
> >>
> >> Any comments ?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> jim g
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From cartravel at pobox.com  Sun Jul 17 11:15:35 2011
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 12:15:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Part Number ID help!!!
In-Reply-To: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Message-ID: <4E2318B7.9030108@pobox.com>

I don't believe that is a Triumph OD (at least not a big Triumph).  Is 
it an A type or J type?  I believe the A type overdrives were 22% ratio 
and the J-type overdrives used in the TR6 were 25/115838 and 25/1158976.

I have profiled several Crane cams and have a master catalog of their 
profiles.  That one is not amongst them.  244 is usually the duration at 
0.050.

On 7/17/2011 11:13 AM, Diesel Performance Parts - Info wrote:
> Hey Members,
>
> I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??
>
> Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
> the part
>
> Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
> Gear reduction starter    R-33037
> Koni Shocks                 80-1005
> Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
> Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
> be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
> Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
> new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
> 1.88"
> Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
> at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
> starter on passenger side
> Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
> has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
> Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
> are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
> Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
> dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
> Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
> no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
> Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
> Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
> 56
> Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
> 27B6, 0589
> Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
> Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
> insert, 50-522
> Pistons                         17753B
> Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
> is 6.0"
> Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
> Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???
>
> Thanks so much for any help you an provide.
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
>
> www.dieselperformanceparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Jul 17 11:40:19 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 13:40:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <D8A33728-406F-44A4-8DCD-7CEA36EFA71B@aol.com>

Amici
It is so nice to put faces to names and make friends.

I want to send a special thanks to Bill who helped Marty be able to run a full
session.

Over all there were a few orders placed for flags. I am sorry that I forgot to
bring some badges.

The FOT is truly a great bunch of people. I am glad I am part of it.

So who is going to glen on October?

From triosan at gmail.com  Sun Jul 17 12:00:32 2011
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:00:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
In-Reply-To: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNCWBGTYP2=OHWYY7n3ojnrNAXY31PAiE+FLDyK7yvFU3w@mail.gmail.com>

I bought hypercoilds for front [600 6" tsll] and rear [800 8"].  Had
e-Machine shop create spring perrchs as these springs are too narrow to sit
on ours.  Will be installing heem in a couple of weeks and will post some
pictures.  In switching computers I ended up loosing the drawing I did.  The
ones for the front each provide 3/4" height, so effective spring length is
now 7.5".  I can slip in varios thickness washers to allow for weight
jacking should I ever get that sophisticated.  Get it running, relearn to
drive are actions one and two when I retire in two weeks.

On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:55 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> Looking for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Jul 17 20:15:27 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:15:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and Craig Leinicke
Message-ID: <8F55E00C-4B60-45AB-987C-91106CB67C15@aol.com>

Your payments have been received. 

Thanks

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322

From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Sun Jul 17 20:43:18 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 19:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
Message-ID: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my rear
brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. 
Jim in Folsom, CA

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 17 23:04:07 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:04:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
In-Reply-To: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <032f01cc4508$1fcd39a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am 
> getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes

Find a quiet stretch of road and find out how fast you can stop.  Ideally
both front and rear should lock up at the same time.  But if the fronts lock
up first, and it only takes a little more pressure to lock up the rears,
that's OK.

To my way of thinking, this is reasonable periodic maintenance for old cars;
at least those driven on the street.  Good driver education, too. 

-- Randall  

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Mon Jul 18 01:00:31 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 00:00:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
In-Reply-To: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E23DA0F.8050407@comcast.net>

I'm assuming we're talking race car with a balance bar between two 
master cylinders.  When I used to work on Formula Fords we would lift 
the car off the ground and make an adjustable device that pushed on the 
brake pedal.  We would adjust that so that the brakes dragged 
significantly but didn't lock up.  Then, we would adjust the bias bar so 
that turning the front and rear wheels felt pretty much the same.  After 
that, it was up to the driver.  These cars have 4 wheel discs and about 
35% weight on the front and 65% on the rear so under braking with the 
forward weight transfer, they are about 50-50 and this technique works.

I tried doing the same thing with my Spitfire and found it moved the 
bias way too far to the back.  Because of the weight balance  and weight 
transfer under braking, this technique won't work on our cars.  One 
thing I noticed was I was wearing out rear brakes way faster than the 
fronts and having to adjust them a lot.  I've since moved the balance 
bar a lot farther to the front and balanced the wear front to rear.  I 
think watching wear patterns is a good check.

If you can find a straight test location, you want to get the fronts to 
lock up slightly before the rears.  On my Spitfire (with rear drums), I 
don't think it is possible to get the rears to lock up first.

Jim Norlin

On 7/17/2011 7:43 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my rear
> brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
> Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 05:14:01 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:14:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6EEB0A4939EA41C0B9BF9454167F8376@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi All, a couple things I did were to throw away the PDWA switch ( the 
pressure differential switch), and went to 7/8 inch diameter rear wheel 
cylinders as opposed to the stock 3/4 inch ones. They can be had from most 
of the TR specialty shops.That put more braking to the rear. I also just put 
on Richard Good's dual MC setup; nice setup. Still tinkering with the 
balance bar setup.
    Several of our suppliers offer higher performance rear linings. Talk to 
some of them about their recommendations.
    I'm assuming you're using braided lines instead of hoses?
    My brakes worked well over the weekend at BeaveRun. Seems all the 
Triumph guys had fun.
Cheers, Bill Tobin
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "sherry robyn" <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 10:43 PM
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together


> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my 
> rear
> brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be 
> appreciated.
> Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 05:39:33 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:39:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
Message-ID: <8D80DBD7426D4DF0A033B258D2DF0BB3@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi, this a follow up to my braking problems at Mid Ohio. What started out as a
leaking rear wheel cylinder (it had just been replaced) kind of snowballed. I
replaced cylinder and the rear linings at the track, but the drums didn't want
to fit on. I marked the ends of the shoes and filed off a small amount of
metal at the end contact points and got the drums on. They worked but not to
my liking.
When I got home, I arc-ground the linings with an AMMCO Safe Arc grinder that
I had bought at an auction for $10 years ago but never used. That helped a lot
to have the linings flat with the drums, which I had lightly turned just to
clean up. After everything was back together, the brakes worked much better.
    The manual says to "offer up" the shoes after the springs are put in the
holes. Usually during the offering up, the springs fall out, nasty words are
said, and you start again! I took some 1/4" wooden dowel pins and sanded a
taper in 4 of them. I put the spring ends in the holes in the shoe and tap a
dowel in the hole to keep the springs in place. Works great and makes the
offering up much easier and quicker.
    Dr Dave from TRF gave me a good tip on installing the wheel cylinder
locking plate; ignore the manual and install the middle locking plate from the
rear last. Saves a lot of grief.
    Thanks to all who replyed a couple weeks ago.
Cheers, Bill

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 18 07:21:11 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 09:21:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend
Message-ID: <BLU160-w1768708D99CD304B5183CABA4A0@phx.gbl>

I survived my first vintage race.  Found some mechanical issues on this shake
down event for me, addressed some, have some I still need to address. Worked
hard but had a blast.  Had the pleasure to meet some new Triumph folk.
Thanks are in order. First to those of you who put up with my annoying email
and phone call questions in the weeks leading up to the event as I tried to
get ready.  At the track, My son Jason who helped me with everything
throughout the weekend.  Bill Tobin for sharing his trailer and everything in
it, it was a godsend to be padocked next to him. Dale Oesterle for the many
suggestions he made. And last but not least, my hero Bill Rampe who I will
forever be indebted to for dragging out his spare radiator and letting me
install it in my car saturday night.  Bill, YOU DA MAN!  I was slow all
weekend but I ended up about 15 seconds faster at the end of the weekend than
I started on Friday so I guess I learned something.  I am sure there are
people I forgot and I apologize, the weekend was pretty much a blur.

See you soon.

Marty Sukey

From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Jul 18 08:23:17 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:23:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover
Message-ID: <CAJ1+nOStm90+7ZQFSbTzNcm6==8vju33wdetFRomJdi1D5z8Yg@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone remember when the TR6 engine changed port sizes? Year or S/N?

Thanks,
Bob

From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 08:43:06 2011
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:43:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
Message-ID: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>

Amici...

After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado 
Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler 
International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob 
Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While 
the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the 
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D 
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and we'll 
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with 
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car 
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE' 
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the 
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure what 
the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your 
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the 
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close 
tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the 
car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since 
coming to North America.

The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very 
light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race 
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car, 
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street 
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine 
events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers. 
 We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being 
retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.  
But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great 
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill Dentinger

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 09:17:52 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:17:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend
References: <BLU160-w1768708D99CD304B5183CABA4A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C20F326D5B1840A89E0F8F29D83CFA46@owner8914bbf7f>

Marty, you're quite welcome! It was great when you finished your first 
session; I know the big grin feeling!
Glad I could help.
"Gee Bill, why do you carry all that stuff with you?" "'Cause I might not 
need it but one of my pals might."
 It was nice meeting your family and hanging out with them.
Glad you had fun.
I had a *#@$%^& blast!
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 9:21 AM
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend


>I survived my first vintage race.  Found some mechanical issues on this 
>shake
> down event for me, addressed some, have some I still need to address. 
> Worked
> hard but had a blast.  Had the pleasure to meet some new Triumph folk.
> Thanks are in order. First to those of you who put up with my annoying 
> email
> and phone call questions in the weeks leading up to the event as I tried 
> to
> get ready.  At the track, My son Jason who helped me with everything
> throughout the weekend.  Bill Tobin for sharing his trailer and everything 
> in
> it, it was a godsend to be padocked next to him. Dale Oesterle for the 
> many
> suggestions he made. And last but not least, my hero Bill Rampe who I will
> forever be indebted to for dragging out his spare radiator and letting me
> install it in my car saturday night.  Bill, YOU DA MAN!  I was slow all
> weekend but I ended up about 15 seconds faster at the end of the weekend 
> than
> I started on Friday so I guess I learned something.  I am sure there are
> people I forgot and I apologize, the weekend was pretty much a blur.
>
> See you soon.
>
> Marty Sukey
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 18 09:22:02 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:22:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE13759408E06A-7CC-631B@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>

ya!  say it aint so!

like the end of an era

relieved to read that SWAN SONG was not equivalent to TOTALED.

BEST WISHES!

Joe A

BRITISH RACE CAR         ATTENTION!

Everyone might review the very comprehensive photo/journal on the TORNADO on
this website:

britishracecar.com        glad it got such a GREAT review before it's
retirement.

ALSO, Dennis Delap's TVR is featured in there.

More FOT TRIUMPH cars to be featured in the future........we deserve it, dont
you think?







-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>; TornadoRegistrar <TornadoRegistrar at aol.com>
Cc: CDHEXTALL <CDHEXTALL at aol.com>; wiallisons <wiallisons at hotmail.com>; office
<office at tidemaster.co.uk>
Sent: Mon, Jul 18, 2011 10:05 am
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...


Amici...

After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While
the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
we'll
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE'
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure
what
the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since
coming to North America.

The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111
race
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
 We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 09:53:20 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:53:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <D0611F5F04884EF8B0ED5EDFA6FB16A1@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi Gang, here's a recap of the PVGP event this past weekend.
David Miller did well in his quick red TR4; a couple seconds off the pace.
Dale Oesterle is always quick in his very yellow Spit.
The Ambro of Robert Stadel is a very nice car (I usually see it from behind);
he talked with my friend Janet and myself Sunday morning.
I'm not sure how Bill Rampe made out; I lost track in all the excitement. I
know he made Marty Sukey's weekend by loaning a radiator.
Marty had fun, learned a lot, and got some valuable experience.
I'm not sure who else was there, I only had sheets for group 4.
Me, I had a great weekend. The only thing I did all weekend, other than
checking pressures, lug nuts, and oil, was pull the drums a couple times and
blow the dust out. Other than that, the old 6 ran great. The engine is
starting to run well after some carb issues last year; pulls easily up to 6K
(or beyond). This was the 4th race ofter the rebuild.
The handling is getting better and the driver is always improving!
I ran with a Pinto, Bathtub Porsche, and MGB, and a 2002 all weekend. Beat
them all in the final race! YEEHAW! Especially the 356. I talked with the
driver after the race and he also had a good time and was very complimentary.
My old tractor engine had more grunt on the straights than his 4 cylinder. The
young BMW owner also came over after the race; he also had fun. That's the
name of the game.
After 3 or 4 years of being at the back, it's nice to be moving up! Marty,
you'll do the same; keep working on it!
Cheers, Bill

From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Jul 18 10:14:53 2011
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:14:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYqqXJYmfEOzuWAkj5nTm+zfhKh8SoVLA9PZ4Zfbnga9Sw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm surprised you guys outlasted the car!
We always enjoyed seeing that beautiful car run around through the woods.
A good run while it lasted.
Props to you both, for the respect you and ALL your cars deserve for their
great preparation standards.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:43 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> Amici...
>
> After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
> Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
> International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
> Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).
>  While
> the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with
> the
> sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
> Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
> we'll
> take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
> the sports racers.
>
> Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
> Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight
> 'RESERVE'
> award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
> largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not
> sure what
> the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
> car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years,
> the
> Thunder Bolt has
> won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.
>
> Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
> tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
> car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events
> since
> coming to North America.
>
> The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
> light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111
> race
> events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
> detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
> car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.
>
> The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
> events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
>  We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
> retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
> But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
> run.  Very satisfying.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com

From jhouathome at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 10:19:42 2011
From: jhouathome at aol.com (jhouathome at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:19:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE137DA245010D-274C-582C@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com>

Bill,

I have so enjoyed the T-Bolt all these years.  Even though I lasted all of 2
laps yesterday befor the Kellison/Triumph gave up the ghost it was great to
take the pace lap behind Bob for this occasion.  All of us TR types have loved
that you two brought it out, and it will be missed.  I have also been very
impressed that your two have made a partnership with a race car actually work!
The respect and friendship betweeen you two has been quite evident in all the
years I have shared the track with you.

Thanks for sharing with all of us!
John Houlton








-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>; TornadoRegistrar <TornadoRegistrar at aol.com>
Cc: CDHEXTALL <CDHEXTALL at aol.com>; wiallisons <wiallisons at hotmail.com>; office
<office at tidemaster.co.uk>
Sent: Mon, Jul 18, 2011 10:04 am
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...


Amici...
After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
hunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
nternational Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
ismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While
he Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
ports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
odified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and we'll
ake that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
he sports racers.
Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
oncours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE'
ward.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
argest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure
hat
he 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
ar is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the
hunder Bolt has
on four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.
Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
ract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
ar.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since
oming to North America.
The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
ight.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race
vents is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
etune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
ar, and probably go on winning beauty contests.
The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
vents.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
etired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
ut not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
un.  Very satisfying.
Bill Dentinger
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com

From tlizzard at msn.com  Mon Jul 18 10:31:16 2011
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:31:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds203309A1D0304184F72953C34A0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to both you and Bob for all the memories.

The Tornado remains one of my favorite cars in all of North American vintage
racing, and you guys being the class act that you are have enriched my, and
all of our experience in the sport.


So, what's up your collective sleeves now?


Terry Stetler

From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 10:48:30 2011
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:48:30 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fwd:  Swan Song...
Message-ID: <3c5d5.19b72ac3.3b55bdde@aol.com>

Return-Path: <BillDentin at aol.com>
Received: from magic-m16.mail.aol.com (magic-m16.mail.aol.com
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Return-path: <BillDentin at aol.com>
From: BillDentin at aol.com
Full-name: BillDentin
Message-ID: <3b437.6c6434.3b55b85e at aol.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:25:02 EDT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Swan Song...
To: n197tr4 at cs.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
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In a message dated 07/18/2011 10:22:02 AM Central Daylight Time, 
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:


> ya!  say it aint so!    
> like the end of an era
>  relieved to read that SWAN SONG was not equivalent to TOTALED.
> 
Thank everyone for the warm comments.  

More than a few expressed concern over my choice of 'Swan Song'.  It sent 
me back to the dictionary to double check.

There it says something like:  "Swan song" is a metaphorical phrase for a 
final gesture, effort, or performance given just before death or retirement. 
The phrase refers to an ancient belief that the Mute Swan (Cygnus olor) is 
completely silent during its lifetime until the moment just before death, 
when it sings one beautiful song. The belief, now known to be incorrect, had 
become proverbial in Ancient Greece by the 3rd century BC, and was reiterated 
many times in later Western poetry and art.  Using it this morning...was 
just our turn.

While our Thunder Bolt was not mute, neither Bob nor I drove it anywhere 
near as fast as it would go.  For one thing, it used to scare us.  Its 
aerodynamic shape causes the front end to get VERY light at the end of long 
straights.  We added a chin spoiler, which helped a little, but we still had the 
sensation of power steering at the end of straights...power steering that 
didn't seem to turn the wheels.  Mute, or not, she sang a pretty swan song this 
past week end.

Thanks again for all of the warm comments.

Bill Dentinger

From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 18 11:13:06 2011
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:13:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1311009186.97874.YahooMailRC@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bill & Bob ...
  I'd like to echo everyone elses comments ... its fast, and
a very pretty car; 
you two have done well with it ...  heres hoping its
future life will be as 
great as the past few years ...
 
Tom
http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire
________________________________
From: "BillDentin at aol.com"
<BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net; TornadoRegistrar at aol.com
Cc:
CDHEXTALL at aol.com; wiallisons at hotmail.com; office at tidemaster.co.uk
Sent: Mon,
July 18, 2011 9:43:06 AM
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...

Amici...

After
completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado 
Thunder
Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler 
International
Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob 
Wismer was
driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While 
the
Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
we'll 
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running
with 
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the
Friday night Race Car 
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its
second straight 'RESERVE' 
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de
Elegance is probably the 
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours
in the USA.  I am not sure 
what 

the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it
is something like, "Yeah, your 
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every
year."  Down through the years, the 
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in
this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the
fact that without our keeping close 
tract Bob and I ended up each running
exactly fifty-five race events in the 
car.  The guy we bought it from ran
one, for a total of 111 race events since 
coming to North America.

The
Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very 
light. 
Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at
Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine 
events.  So we got lots of,
"Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers. 
We were asked often about our
feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being 
retired from racing.  I think
most thought our reaction would be sadness.  
But not so.  Satisfaction would
be far more descriptive.  It's been a great 
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill
Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net

From harmug at us.ibm.com  Tue Jul 19 06:11:57 2011
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:11:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw:Lorne Fritz
Message-ID: <OFCB77B4E1.79C2D8C6-ON852578D2.00429CAC-852578D2.00430341@us.ibm.com>

FYI, posting a note from fellow FOT'r Lorne Fritz, he's been having e-mail
issues.

I get my FOT emails thru Hot Mail and I have ,for some unknown reason, have
not been able to get on the site for almost 2 months.  Could you please let
anyone who may be trying to contact me to try lorne.fritz at jlink.net .

Thanks
Lorne

mike
63 Spit
70 GT6
72 MkV
80 1500

G. Michael Harmuth

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Jul 19 07:46:21 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:46:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
Message-ID: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>

What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
an up-grade......thanks.......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Jul 19 08:30:48 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:30:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>

John, A lot of the racers I know with TR3, TR4 and TR6 (mine included) are 
using a Tilton rally clutch.  They use a 7.25" clutch and disc and aren't 
prone to the problems all the others are.  The main problem is the stock 
style TR6 clutch (which is what are most adapted to) is that the tabs that 
connect the cover to the pressure plate are only made to hold the pressure 
plate in acceleration mode and if you down shift or rev the engine with the 
clutch disengaged, the tabs will distort or break causing the pressure plate 
to get off center.
The other advantage is the weight savings of the rally clutch, about half 
the weight.
I've used the Saab turbo version of the TR6 pressure plate and several other 
"racing" clutches and all have failed, I've been using the Tilton for about 
3 years now with no problems. Quartermaster makes a similar clutch and 
contrary to belief, the parts are not interchangeable.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 6:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts 
> suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a 
> test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should 
> consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) 
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the 
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated 
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From gasket.works at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 08:53:02 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <000801cc4623$902fc070$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

All I have had replies from several folks to date.  As a consequence of  the
positive replies.... we have reached a threshold of price reduction i.e. Now,
about $2,250 fob!.  The next break point is $2,080 per unit and requires 10
orders.  I'm thinking that this is a pretty nice deal.  If ever there was a
time -this could be it as I doubt that a group buy will likely be comming
around in the forseable future.

Answer off line please.

Will place the order in the next two weeks to give enough time for questions.

Rev it up... for 2012!

Mordy

M.N.Dunst
Gasket Works USA, LLC
www.Headgasket.com
626.358.1616 ph1
626.354.1591 ph2/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax

Triple R Munitions, Inc.
Class 6  Certified F.F.L.
626.201.9471 ph/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax
GMT-8 Pacific

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jul 19 10:09:24 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:09:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>

I use the stock diaphragm style clutch.  Replaced a very nice dual 
plate Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without 
spinning the tires and breaking all of my motor mounts.  If you are 
making BIG power, the stock setup is kind of iffy.

Tony Drews

At 08:46 AM 7/19/2011, John Hasty wrote:
>What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
>think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
>day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
>thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
>an up-grade......thanks.......
>
>John H. Hasty
>Attorney At Law
>Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>719 East Boulevard
>Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>Tele: (704) 372-5600
>Fax: (704) 372-4601
>E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>www.gdhs.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 19 11:07:36 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:07:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 19 Jul 2011, Tony Drews wrote:

> I use the stock diaphragm style clutch.  Replaced a very nice dual plate 
> Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without spinning the tires 
> and breaking all of my motor mounts.

That Tilton setup was awesome. I loved it!!!

> If you are making BIG power, the stock 
> setup is kind of iffy.

Agreed.

> Tony Drews

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jhouathome at aol.com  Tue Jul 19 11:23:18 2011
From: jhouathome at aol.com (jhouathome at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:23:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>

John,
I have used a Tilton for years on the TR4, and it's way too much.  Total
overkill.  Requires huge pedal effort, and is a real pain around the paddock
and from a standing start.  Nothing ever goes wrong with it, but it's really
not necessary.  I'll convert to a HD stock clutch next time the motor is out.
John Houlton






-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 19, 2011 9:12 am
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
hink the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
ay on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
hought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
n up-grade......thanks.......
John H. Hasty
ttorney At Law
uthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
19 East Boulevard
harlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
ele: (704) 372-5600
ax: (704) 372-4601
-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
ww.gdhs.com
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
ntended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
s PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
f you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
issemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
eceived this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
nd its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
egarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
ny tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
s not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
arketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
ddressed herein.
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
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orums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Jul 19 11:52:30 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:52:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <4E25C45E.30001@bright.net>

John & list. We have a TR6 clutch disc made for us that is a stronger 
center and heavier gauge metal where friction material is attached.  
Solid center discs, either a single or multi-disc are fine if you are 
willing to live with a "light it and launch it" scenario. But, that same 
set-up, as Tony mentioned, won't live in a situation where you drive the 
car onto the trailer or similar situation that requires slipping the 
clutch. A picture is attached. $129.95 + shipping.  Thanks, Ted


On 7/19/2011 9:46 AM, John Hasty wrote:
> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson&  Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0094.JPG]

From horizonracing at msn.com  Tue Jul 19 11:53:20 2011
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 10:53:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>,
	<20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w25CA4E9521ED797ED36F03B24D0@phx.gbl>

By using a "rally" clutch from tilton,q-master etc , they are designed to take
the heat .....which means they "might" last longer and you can drive your car
into the trailer without smoking the thing. What is Important is to to fit a
clutch limit stop at the pedal to prevent "over centering" the spring in the
pressure plate.  As for the clutch release brg, I have made up a collar to
mount a tilton style release bearing but still uses the stock fork, shaft and
slave cylinder.

:)
Tony


> Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:07:36 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: tony at tonydrews.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
>
> On Tue, 19 Jul 2011, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > I use the stock diaphragm style clutch. Replaced a very nice dual plate
> > Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without spinning the
tires
> > and breaking all of my motor mounts.
>
> That Tilton setup was awesome. I loved it!!!
>
> > If you are making BIG power, the stock
> > setup is kind of iffy.
>
> Agreed.
>
> > Tony Drews
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair |
> Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com

From billb at bnj.com  Tue Jul 19 12:04:43 2011
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:04:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3C19082A-EF0D-49C3-B665-475C01911887@bnj.com>

I use a quartermaster two plate rally clutch. The key to pedal effort and
better control over the vicious hook up is a smaller master cylinder. I think
we're using a .5" or a 5/8. I'd probably go smaller if I could find one. The
smaller MC also makes it easier to avoid overstroking the clutch--you might
not even need a pedal stop, though it's worth making sure if you switch. I use
a saab concentric throwout bearing as well.

Stuff breaks on the stock clutches--at least it did for me. I've broken
Quartermasters too, but only from over-stroking and/or a long season. I ran
one for the entire All Aluminum tour and the year after. It was trashed, but
it never complained.
On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:23 AM, jhouathome at aol.com wrote:

> John,
> I have used a Tilton for years on the TR4, and it's way too much.  Total
> overkill.  Requires huge pedal effort, and is a real pain around the
paddock
> and from a standing start.  Nothing ever goes wrong with it, but it's
really
> not necessary.  I'll convert to a HD stock clutch next time the motor is
out.
> John Houlton

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 12:17:46 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:17:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <DC80918F9BA24A9599A56824B77D1968@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi Guys, I used a Magic clutch from TRF (Sachs) and got 3+ years out of it. 
The disc went last year at the Glen; tore the center out but it happened 
going out of turn 11 on the last lap and I coasted across the finish line.
I had Ted Schumacher get me a heave duty disc and used a Sachs pressure 
plate, part number SC430. Got the numbers off the old plate. It fits Saab, 
Vauxall, and Austin, by what it says on the box. Got it from my local parts 
store.
It seems to work well and is mild mannered.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 9:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts 
> suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a 
> test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should 
> consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) 
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the 
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated 
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 12:40:45 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:40:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover
References: <CAJ1+nOStm90+7ZQFSbTzNcm6==8vju33wdetFRomJdi1D5z8Yg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <70199F50635B4C46B52747DB48C65DEF@owner8914bbf7f>

I assume you're talking about intake port spacing.
According to Dr Dave, the literature says CC75000.Sometime in late '71 or 
early '72.
Best way is to measure the distance between ports. Early: 1/2"  Late: 1"
Hope this helps.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 10:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover


> Anyone remember when the TR6 engine changed port sizes? Year or S/N?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Jul 19 16:16:21 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 00:16:21 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>

I started from pole but a stone hit the radiator.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN3JhFvoC7w&feature=player_embedded

Cheers
Chris

From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue Jul 19 20:14:11 2011
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 12:14:11 +1000
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>

i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, but
ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you guys
all want something different. even if we got 2 lots of 5 , it might be
viable. I'll stay in touch with Mordy rather than seek direct replies, as he
has put in the hard yards so far

Terry

From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Tue Jul 19 21:16:06 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 20:16:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
Message-ID: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
power 
for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA

From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Jul 19 23:26:49 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 22:26:49 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E266719.7080003@comcast.net>

I use Porterfield shoes R-4 compound on the Spitfire.

On 7/19/2011 8:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net

From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 20 06:46:15 2011
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:46:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B0198B1B@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey membership,

 Sent this last week and didn't get but one response, can anyone help me on
this??

I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??

Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
the part

Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
Gear reduction starter    R-33037
Koni Shocks                 80-1005
Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
1.88"
Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
starter on passenger side
Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
56
Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
27B6, 0589
Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
insert, 50-522
Pistons                         17753B
Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
is 6.0"
Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???

Thanks so much for any help you can provide.


Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 06:58:35 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:58:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>

Jim,

I'm using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red


On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com

From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed Jul 20 07:26:28 2011
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 09:26:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002901cc46e0$a1a02f30$e4e08d90$@rr.com>

Yep, same thing here on the Spitfire.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Duncan Charlton
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 8:59 AM
To: sherry robyn
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
shoes

Jim,

I'm using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red


On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
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From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 07:50:01 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 06:50:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Use them on my TR4 as well.  


From: Duncan Charlton
<duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
Cc:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes

Jim,

I'm
using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good
source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in
Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Jul 20 08:08:02 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:08:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B0198B1B@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Message-ID: <1341F91FE6054985A52156D068A0E139@Charly>

Hey Mark,
Sorry no one replied to your posting, but try to understand that looking up 
these numbers can be very lengthy trying to find these in all the different 
manuals.  What I usually do is put the part # and a very short description 
into my Google search and see what come up.  I did this with your first item 
307265  V2989   A 1147  and I came up with a link to Rimmer Bros 
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005584
Try this and you might be surprised what you'll find.
Good Luck,
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diesel Performance Parts - Info" <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help


> Hey membership,
>
> Sent this last week and didn't get but one response, can anyone help me on
> this??
>
> I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??
>
> Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere 
> on
> the part
>
> Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I 
> think??
> Gear reduction starter    R-33037
> Koni Shocks                 80-1005
> Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
> Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks 
> to
> be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
> Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB 
> Supposedly a
> new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
> 1.88"
> Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" 
> Shaft
> at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
> starter on passenger side
> Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" 
> Shaft
> has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
> Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, 
> mains
> are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
> Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs) 
> GA42748HE, by
> dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
> Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been 
> decked so
> no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
> Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
> Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 
> 367871,
> 56
> Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, 
> RKO,
> 27B6, 0589
> Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
> Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area 
> steel
> insert, 50-522
> Pistons                         17753B
> Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to 
> center
> is 6.0"
> Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
> Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???
>
> Thanks so much for any help you can provide.
>
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
>
> www.dieselperformanceparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jul 20 08:08:39 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:08:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:

> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, but
> ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you guys
> all want something different.

Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the 
place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a 
hint about the advantages to whatever the differences are.

I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means 
ultimate reliability.

Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the 
short tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2. 
the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be 
reasonable to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever). 
That might reign things in a bit.

I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on 
that particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Jul 20 08:20:57 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:20:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <4E266719.7080003@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A6DD480AB3944C5864B6918CC733366@gdhs.local>

You might give Carbotec a call.....877-899-5024  their front pucks are
great.......their stuff is on the net

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
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If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
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IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
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any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 1:27 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
shoes


I use Porterfield shoes R-4 compound on the Spitfire.

On 7/19/2011 8:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better
> stopping power for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Jul 20 08:38:51 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:38:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 pistons
Message-ID: <00F2583BE65841B7AEA4C5DB2A4DDB04@gdhs.local>

Thanks for all the responses on Clutch options.....before I asked I was
ignorant, now I am confused.....Robert's suggestion that if it isn't broke
don't fix it seems to work, but the SPEC Stage 3 looks pretty good as
well.......Now, next question......pistons, flat or pop-up? And what rings?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Jul 20 08:51:15 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:51:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <9445DCA0A3AA4A0B82EA1F4343C07532@Charly>

Well, I might be making things a little more difficult with my request.  I 
need a long tail crankshaft and the flywheels are readily available from 
several sources and several configurations.  If anyone needs a stock 
flywheel for a long butt crankshaft as used in the TR5 and 69 TR6, I have a 
couple I could part with.  I believe the GT6 used the long butt crankshaft 
also.
As for bearings, I use the stock style bearings and for flywheel mounting, I 
can go either 4 bolt with 4 dowels or 8 bolts I guess.  I'd like to have the 
mains cross drilled as well.
With this being said, I'd go for 2 if we can get the price around $2000 or 
less.
Does this help anyone with getting an order together?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts


> On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:
>
>> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, 
>> but
>> ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you 
>> guys
>> all want something different.
>
> Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the 
> place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a 
> hint about the advantages to whatever the differences are.
>
> I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means 
> ultimate reliability.
>
> Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the 
> short tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2. 
> the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be 
> reasonable to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever). 
> That might reign things in a bit.
>
> I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on 
> that particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.
>
> Or maybe I'm missing something.
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com

From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 20 08:54:35 2011
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 09:54:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A53514ED7BC@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I don't have a TR6 racecar, just a Lemons TR6 but I have interest in building
a real one someday. As the price goes down, my  interest goes up. I've been
collecting parts.

Bob Kramer
Southern Construction Inventory Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35  Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-687-7422 Office
512-657-8526 Cell


Things turn out best for the people who make the best of the way things turn
out. ~John Wooden

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 9:09 AM
To: Enquiries Road & Track
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:

> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same
> quality, but ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it.
> It seems you guys all want something different.

Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the
place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a hint
about the advantages to whatever the differences are.

I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means ultimate
reliability.

Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the short
tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2.
the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be reasonable
to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever).
That might reign things in a bit.

I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on that
particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 20 09:14:11 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:14:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] CR
Message-ID: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>

What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a CR can be
run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?

Thanks,
Marty (one race in and I already want to go faster) :)

From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Jul 20 11:54:14 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 17:54:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5664A8E3DA447F8B777371DF4C0@phx.gbl>

I ran 13.2 for several years with just 100 pump octane gas.  Just be sure to
watch the plugs for detonation. the pistons were factory stock GT-6 which gave
a .040" oversize on the Spitfire.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: trmarty at hotmail.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:14:11 -0400
> Subject: [Fot] CR
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a CR can
be
> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty (one race in and I already want to go faster) :)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 12:58:21 2011
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:58:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crankshaft topic
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNARfhub9hNz7HMqzt7EDFH0qhq+FRdUeGfw0bz9OL+91Q@mail.gmail.com>

I am getting interested -but would be a short tail.

Charly, have you ever broken a crank?  I have burned several bearings, but
never has a crank broken.  I am using Racestoration's (Daryll Uprichard)
stronger main bearing caps and steel rear main seal holder as well as
aluminum oil pan -- all of which should help reduce risk.

By the way, I met him at a show in the UK in January and he showed me a
forged crank he had had made -- it had been micro polished to almost
absolute smoothness all over -- like an F1 crank.  Could put it in the
engine without pistons, but with the bearings correct, and then could
actually spin it by hand and it rolled like a top.  Would be interesting to
see what it would cost to get these cranks micro smoothed [it was done in
some type of aerospace polisher using a vibrating liquid filled with
triangular shaped microscopic beads].

Chuck

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 13:09:44 2011
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 12:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The only
time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I burned a
whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
 
Mike 

From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
Subject:
[Fot] CR

What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
CR can be
run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?

Thanks,
Marty (one race in and
I already want to go faster) :)

From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Jul 20 14:20:49 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 16:20:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
	<1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F91B9647-F71A-4625-B65C-0653C93044EC@seiri.com>

I went to 12:1 in the tr6 and can't keep lands in between rings, so I'm
falling back to around 10:1.

Kas ran @ 12:1 with much better success. But my engines need to last longer.
:)



On Jul 20, 2011, at 15:09, Mike Munson <fasttrs at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The
only
> time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I burned
a
> whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
> Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
>
> Mike
>
> From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
> Subject:
> [Fot] CR
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
> CR can be
> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty (one race in and
> I already want to go faster) :)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 19:08:19 2011
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:08:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I am in need of a moldex crankshaft for my tr4 engine. lead time @ moldex is
now 15 weeks.   does anybody have one they are interested in selling? 
New,used, or with an engine block.  open to discussing options.
 
Thanks, Mark
Wheatley   #86 TR-4                            
 
 
 
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From gasket.works at gte.net  Wed Jul 20 20:50:56 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 02:50:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com><1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1864033592-1311216659-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2018229428-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Contact John frymark.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Wheatley <amrenno1 at yahoo.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:08:19 
To: fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Reply-to: Mark Wheatley <amrenno1 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft

I am in need of a moldex crankshaft for my tr4 engine. lead time @ moldex is
now 15 weeks.   does anybody have one they are interested in selling? 
New,used, or with an engine block.  open to discussing options.
 
Thanks, Mark
Wheatley   #86 TR-4                            
 
 
 
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Jul 20 20:52:57 2011
From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 19:52:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
 brakeshoes
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
	<1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>

I have recently been using lining from Porterfield that they call their RD-7 
material. It is green in color. I have found it to work better than the RD-4 
material.
                                                                             
                    Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>; "sherry robyn" 
<sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 6:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear 
brakeshoes


> Use them on my TR4 as well.
>
>
> From: Duncan Charlton
> <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
> To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
> Cc:
> fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot]
> Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
>
> Jim,
>
> I'm
> using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
> Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating 
> greater
> friction on vintage racer brakes.
>
> Duncan
> (Texas)
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
> On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
>
>> I am looking for a good
> source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
>> power
>> for a TR6.  Jim in
> Folsom, CA
>> _______________________________________________
>>
> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com

From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Jul 20 21:02:23 2011
From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 20:02:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] CR
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl><1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<F91B9647-F71A-4625-B65C-0653C93044EC@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <04959EA78E1F482EBB9FAB3E1D80F5CB@TER2>

If you are breakiing ring lands off of the pistons, then you are 
experiencing detonation. Seems like the real answer would be to retard the 
ignition timing &/or richen the mixture.  Running the engine on a dyno and 
finding the proper "tune" for the combination you are using would gain you 
power and reliability.
                                                                             
                                            Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Bownes -Seiri" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "Mike Munson" <fasttrs at yahoo.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] CR


>I went to 12:1 in the tr6 and can't keep lands in between rings, so I'm
> falling back to around 10:1.
>
> Kas ran @ 12:1 with much better success. But my engines need to last 
> longer.
> :)
>
>
>
> On Jul 20, 2011, at 15:09, Mike Munson <fasttrs at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The
> only
>> time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I 
>> burned
> a
>> whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
>> Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
>> To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
>> Subject:
>> [Fot] CR
>>
>> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
>> CR can be
>> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
>> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
>> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
>> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
>> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marty (one race in and
>> I already want to go faster) :)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 21:19:34 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 22:19:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
 brakeshoes
In-Reply-To: <D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
	<1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>
Message-ID: <1EF21859-7BB5-4A8A-AFAD-EB5EC1E80429@gmail.com>

Greg,
I asked about RD-7 since I'd seen it in Porterfield's website catalog, but the
person I spoke to on the phone at Porterfield told me they'd discontinued it
with RD-4 as the remaining substitute.
Duncan
(Texas)

On Jul 20, 2011, at 9:52 PM, Greg Solow wrote:

> I have recently been using lining from Porterfield that they call their RD-7
material. It is green in color. I have found it to work better than the RD-4
material.
>
Greg Solow
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
> To: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>; "sherry robyn"
<sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 6:50 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
brakeshoes
>
>
>> Use them on my TR4 as well.
>>
>>
>> From: Duncan Charlton
>> <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
>> To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
>> Cc:
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot]
>> Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I'm
>> using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
>> Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating
greater
>> friction on vintage racer brakes.
>>
>> Duncan
>> (Texas)
>> 1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
>> On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
>>
>>> I am looking for a good
>> source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
>>> power
>>> for a TR6.  Jim in
>> Folsom, CA
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate:
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu Jul 21 06:49:14 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:49:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
Message-ID: <000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris

From gasket.works at gte.net  Thu Jul 21 10:38:23 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 16:38:23 +0000
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <1629438998-1311266304-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-478462162-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Our crank supplier...will make each Crankshaft to your specification.  They don't mind mixing and matching.  I will be sending to those that have responded a seperate order form and the group "code" to get the group rate.  I will tally the numbers but think we may have ten orders.  You will order what you wish and arrange shipment independently.    I spoke to them this morning. They will be on holiday for two weeks beginning this next week.
 


M


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

From igofaster at att.net  Fri Jul 22 07:10:51 2011
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 06:10:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
Message-ID: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

watching these videos posted by MADMARX has to be one of the coolest things we 
get to see on FoT!
Keep 'em coming... great tracks and a better driver!
Bobby Whitehead
(sometimes) GT6+ racer




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 21, 2011 7:49:14 AM
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 22 10:00:14 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 16:00:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.13.1311350435.3298.fot@autox.team.net>

Thank you for that, i try my very best!
That weekend was disappointing.
In both races start from the first row - and both races no finish.

Race 1: clutch failur
Race 2: stone in radiator

Chris
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 06:10:51 
To: MadMarx<tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: FoT Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

watching these videos posted by MADMARX has to be one of the coolest things we 
get to see on FoT!
Keep 'em coming... great tracks and a better driver!
Bobby Whitehead
(sometimes) GT6+ racer




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 21, 2011 7:49:14 AM
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 08:59:34 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:59:34 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder
In-Reply-To: <20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>

Maybe you might remember me making these high performance piston seals for
the front calipers.
I have these seals in store if people are interested.

Cheers
Chris

From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Jul 25 10:49:59 2011
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 11:49:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder
In-Reply-To: <000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
	<000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>
Message-ID: <001201cc4aea$e4da3490$ae8e9db0$@com>

We are interested but do not have an urgent need.  We will need this winter
probably.  I'm trying to arrange with some friends in the Frankfurt area to
get the seals from you and pay you and then when my friend from here travels
to Germany he can pick them up and repay my German friends for them.  We can
save the shipping to the U.S. that way.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 10:00 AM
To: 'FoT Triumph'
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder

Maybe you might remember me making these high performance piston seals for
the front calipers.
I have these seals in store if people are interested.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com

From klynch_6 at msn.com  Mon Jul 25 12:26:50 2011
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 12:26:50 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
Message-ID: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>

Perhaps the group can settle this.

If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that has
a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?

b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?

Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!

thanks!

Kevin

From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Jul 25 12:31:18 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 14:31:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>

If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
it was nearly 15 years ago...


On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:

> Perhaps the group can settle this.
>
> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
> has
> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
>
> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
>
> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
>
> thanks!
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com

From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jul 25 12:50:11 2011
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 14:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
	<CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8C7F563E-DB65-4A6C-A178-3AD9904D56DB@me.com>

I'm guessing we are talking about tractor motors.  The sixes have a port on the block below the distributor, in line with the main galley and above the pressure valve from the oil pump discharge, that is filled in at the factory with some soft metal. It can be drilled out and the port re-tapped - takes the NPT end of an AN12 fitting.  That gets plumbed straight to the accusump, so when the 'sump discharges it pumps right back into the galley.  I have a one way valve on the supply or return from the oil cooler, so there's no way oil can go back to the filter.

On Jul 25, 2011, at 2:31 PM, robert bownes wrote:

If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
it was nearly 15 years ago...


On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:

> Perhaps the group can settle this.
> 
> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
> has
> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
> 
> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
> 
> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
> 
> thanks!
> 
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com

From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 25 12:56:10 2011
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 11:56:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
	<CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C4825A4A-47F5-4E88-BE48-F9D7385154C2@bnj.com>

I like to go straight to the oil galley, though that requires redrilling and
tapping a galley plug hole. No one way valve required. If you're going to go
to the adapter you need to figure out the flow path--some of them are
different--and tap in where you'll get the most direct feed to the block. You
don't want to go through the filter.
On Jul 25, 2011, at 11:31 AM, robert bownes wrote:

> If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
> after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
> it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
> before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
> it was nearly 15 years ago...
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Perhaps the group can settle this.
>>
>> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
>> has
>> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
>> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
>>
>> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
>>
>> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
>>
>> thanks!
>>
>> Kevin
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 12:59:03 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:59:03 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
	<1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000301cc4afc$ed7d2f00$c8778d00$@com>

Here is a different view, race 1.

 

http://contour.com/stories/oleben-race-1-part-1-tr-competition-british-gt-20
11--2

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 13:24:13 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 21:24:13 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>

And my video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsRqTkfAonw

Funny to watch my car in that rear mirror of the TR3.

At a lefthander I went out of road and hit the TR6. I was the naughty guy in
that situation :-(
Better to watch in the TR3 video as my camera came loose from that Morgan
car hit.
We both spun off. He lost his belt drive and I had a clutch failure after.
We both didn't see the finish

From markvaden at gmail.com  Mon Jul 25 14:34:54 2011
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:34:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks
Message-ID: <CAExoegnL+5a=2xJ9cGHzLY0MtT57b1-Ei1B8jA5aMi10VbX9tg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Does any one know of a good place on the west coast to have lever shocks
revalved for racing? Also I am looking for a place to rebuild my brake
calipers.

-Mark

From philhyer at gmail.com  Mon Jul 25 18:45:16 2011
From: philhyer at gmail.com (Phil Hyer)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:45:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
	<1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
	<000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
Message-ID: <CABLtXDjQOW7fMZSPoV25w08oD6c7h_XFqSs9urVp_yMsad95ew@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 3:24 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> And my video:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsRqTkfAonw
>
> Funny to watch my car in that rear mirror of the TR3.
>
> At a lefthander I went out of road and hit the TR6. I was the naughty guy
> in
> that situation :-(
> Better to watch in the TR3 video as my camera came loose from that Morgan
> car hit.
> We both spun off. He lost his belt drive and I had a clutch failure after.
> We both didn't see the finish
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/philhyer at gmail.com

From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Tue Jul 26 00:34:50 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 23:34:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks
Message-ID: <e5be8cb6f7744f95901bc2c2d5240bf0.gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>

you can prepare the shocks yourself if they are not
leaking.
remove the end cover and the big bolt head that
covers the valve assembly. wash out the inside of the
shock resevoir and pump the lever to clean out the
cylinders. i have used gasoline to do this. do it
outside away from any buildings and source of open
flame. dry them out. unsolder the small nut on the
stem of the valve and adjust the valve tighter by two
turns. shim the larger diameter spring about 1/8
inch. (you can also purchase mg-b competition valves.
i think moss has them in stock. fill the resevoir and
the valve chamber with Castrol R 40 sae engine oil.
This is the old "castorbean based oil" reassemble the
shock and with it mounted in a vise with the vavle
chamber uppermost, work the shock through its full
range of movement 20 or 30 times until all of the air
has been worked out of the system. the arm shock move
smoothly with no "gaps" where there is no resistance
to movement.
  I did this to the lever shocks on the rear of my
morgan +  50 years ago and over 90,000 miles and many
races.  Those same shocks are still on the car, work
well and do not leak! (they are the same size shocks
as are fitted to TR-3 & TR-4 cars.
                                       Greg Solow
\


Greg Solow
The Engine Room
Sports Car Specialists
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
831 429-1800



------- Original Message -------
>From    : Mark Vaden[mailto:markvaden at gmail.com]
Sent    : 7/25/2011 1:34:54 PM
To      : fot at autox.team.net
Cc      :
Subject : RE: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks

 Hi,

Does any one know of a good place on the west coast
to have lever shocks
revalved for racing? Also I am looking for a place to
rebuild my brake
calipers.

-Mark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

 http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com

From tr6driver at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 26 13:49:13 2011
From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 12:49:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
Message-ID: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised if
we end the race with it looking like this!
 
It's hard to believe we started
with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back in
the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6 was
totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was very
helpful!
 
Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
 
Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to purchase
two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just aren't
quite straight anymore!
 
http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
 
Jamie Palmer
Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing

From barry at penybryn.ca  Wed Jul 27 12:34:59 2011
From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 12:34:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Video - Edmonton Indy Car Support Race
Message-ID: <001301cc4c8b$e61199a0$b234cce0$@ca>

Amici - While I realize that this is not strictly Triumph related ( the TR3
isn't ready yet), I participated in the Eurasia Cup support race at the
Edmonton Indy Car race held here in Edmonton at the downtown airport this
past weekend. The track was reconfigured from last year and is a little over
3 miles long with 13 corners, 2 of which are hairpins, with 3 very long
straights ( with the front straight being almost a mile long - the Indy cars
were topping out at 180-190 mph and this with an acute left at the end). We
put 50 cars on the track which made for some "interesting" moves. The incar
video is from the Subway GT3 Porsche Cup car driven by Peter Spencer,
because of the variety of cars entered - there were 2 British sports cars -
a gorgeous MGB and a Sunbeam Tiger, the closing speeds were phenomenal.

The video starts mid-race (the race was 45 mins. long).

Note the hi tech dash mounted analog g-force indicator...................

Barry.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5-8UWpVIWU

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Jul 27 15:01:10 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 23:01:10 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1758391041.236528.1311743957245.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
	<1758391041.236528.1311743957245.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002801cc4ca0$5277c100$f7674300$@com>

Let me add 4 laps of the qualy 1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XeAjCaLU5Q



The first laps I showed the car behind the track, then I tried to do a fast
lap with lots of traffic in my way and the end was the gearbox rear mount
broke.

BUT b P2 on the grid fortunately J



Cheers

Chris

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 06:02:46 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 08:02:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <3217AD62A8354D7BBF2569EBD7072614@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 05:07:17 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 07:07:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <4EBC3CD662464E9384AC881D511A686F@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck 
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 06:18:13 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 08:18:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck 
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

 Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com

From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Fri Jul 29 05:42:35 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 07:42:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>

Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin 
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div 
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of 
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the 
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 

From emanteno at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 06:12:38 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 07:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
	<95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMygsHoRhRGhpZmTBhpUt3m5Nh+woOGvFScyPYAYD-ft6yw@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 6:42 AM, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list.
> May I get a second?
>


WOW, Dick Stockton got a computer???!!!

Second.

And welcome, Dick.

From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 29 06:15:55 2011
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 05:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <1311941755.55480.YahooMailClassic@web125708.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Second; and Dick doesn't need to worry these computer things are just a passing fad.

--- On Fri, 7/29/11, yellow04 at tr4racer.com <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:


From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Date: Friday, July 29, 2011, 6:42 AM


Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin 
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div 
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of 
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the 
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com

From ac at camoletti.ch  Fri Jul 29 06:22:25 2011
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 14:22:25 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Seconded:  Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <000901cc4dea$2d181220$87483660$@camoletti.ch>

Thank you Henry (and welcome back by the way...)
Welcome Dick ! Great addition to the list and what a CV !
Alex Camoletti
(from Switzerland, TR3A 1959)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de yellow04 at tr4racer.com
Envoyi : vendredi 29 juillet 2011 13:43
@ : fot at autox.team.net
Cc : stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Objet : [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!

Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list.
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996.

Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ac at camoletti.ch

From REK46 at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 06:23:01 2011
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:23:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>

I'll second it for sure...knew Dick from when I started racing a TR-250 in  
'68 , at Nelson Ledges.
 
 
In a message dated 7/29/2011 8:09:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellow04 at tr4racer.com writes:

Sorry  about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true  
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is  
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday,  he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those  of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing  in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an 
Austin 
Healey 3000,  Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph  TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after  overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob  Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED 
Div 
2nd  (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group  44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race 
of 
the  season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the  
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967  
American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd)  , ARRC 
Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra  (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan.  Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid  Ohio 6 Hour 
Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class  in a Dick 
Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first  professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all  of the 90s before buying 
back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in  2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the  car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry  "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime  Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he  retired in 
1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early  60s. Dick lent 
out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car  there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti,  Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to  Penske racing 
where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also  a long time 
employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to  the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found  the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com

From RustyTR4 at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 06:37:04 2011
From: RustyTR4 at aol.com (RustyTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:37:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <a1303.6555ea52.3b640370@aol.com>

I would consider it an honor to have him join our group.
 
Matt Bakes
 
Triumph  Rescue
617 Walnut St.
Bally, Pa. 19503
610-845-8217
_www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) 

British  Wiring
617 Walnut St.
P.O. Box 185
Bally, Pa. 19503
_www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/)  

From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 29 06:37:14 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:37:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
	<95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <A22ACD20B9E14D108E01530C27F6365D@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi, I'll second. Dick's a good guy.
With his history, he should be on the list.
Welcome, Dick
Bill Tobin
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <stocktontr4 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2011 7:42 AM
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!


> Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
> miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
> right with the world again...
>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
> May I get a second?
>
> For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
> Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an 
> Austin Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans 
> Elva MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th 
> place finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win 
> co-driving with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 
> [ 66 NED Div 2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical 
> failure (ahead of Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the 
> last National race of the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor 
> Corporation trophy for the "Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph 
> competitor at the 1967 American Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 
> (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 3rd place after spinning off 
> track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 
> 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s 
> Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class A winner, and in the 
> same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton built Toyota 
> Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the North America. 
> Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back his old TR4 
> and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and orange" paint 
> scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.
>
> Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
> Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.
>
> Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 
> 1996. Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick 
> lent out his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. 
> Did tuning work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken 
> Slagle, Al Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske 
> racing where they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long 
> time employee.
>
> ~~~
>
> While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
> computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!
>
> Cheers
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 29 07:21:52 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 13:21:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <mailman.18.1311945735.3298.fot@autox.team.net>

Have you ever seen him racing? Man, that's fun to watch!!!
Second!

Chris
------Originalnachricht------
Von: RustyTR4 at aol.com
Absender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
An: yellow04 at tr4racer.com
An: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Gesendet: 29. Jul. 2011 14:37

I would consider it an honor to have him join our group.
 
Matt Bakes
 
Triumph  Rescue
617 Walnut St.
Bally, Pa. 19503
610-845-8217
_www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) 

British  Wiring
617 Walnut St.
P.O. Box 185
Bally, Pa. 19503
_www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/)  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com



Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

From gasket.works at verizon.net  Fri Jul 29 07:40:48 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 06:40:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Kas cup 2011 you tube link
Message-ID: <001c01cc4df5$20d666f0$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

Finally, got my 2011 Laguna Seca K Cup vid to upload.  I didn't put the whole
vid in as it was really not needed.  I brought the size down from 3.97 gig to
150mb (edited final version).

highlights.


1) TR 250 zooming by me at the start caught me by surprise..  There was barely
enough room and only a top driver could have done that.  Good PASS!
2) Weaving through the infield on lap 1 behind the 250.
3) Watching a certain White Herald driver push his car as hard as it would
go...
4) Although a certain very fast Blue Morgan was just in front of me the entire
race... I did try to pass it at Turn 8/8a.  Always wanted to do a Zanardi>   A
bit reckless but, it was the white flag lap.  It didn't get me closer.

.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuMxGEM2FfI



Mordy

M.N.Dunst
Gasket Works USA, LLC
www.Headgasket.com
626.358.1616 ph1
626.354.1591 ph2/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax

Triple R Munitions, Inc.
Class 6  Certified F.F.L.
626.201.9471 ph/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax
GMT-8 Pacific

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 29 07:41:33 2011
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:41:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 7 lb TR flywheel - For Sale
Message-ID: <CADm3DLH_bMZF_bEf0SV+0Bn=oqP8kq4JXqK5HGR4=K8XYRmKjA@mail.gmail.com>

I have one of the original production run lightened flywheels that Uncle
Jack had produced.  This flywheel has never been used and has been cryo
treated.

Please contact me off list if interested.

Brad

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 29 07:47:22 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:47:22 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>
Message-ID: <001401cc4df6$0da2ac00$28e80400$@com>

I'm thinking about to change over to a Tilton unit with one or two clutch
plates.
Are there any part numbers to look for?
As on Ebay USA they are sold at reasonable prices.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Charly Mitchel
Gesendet: Dienstag, 19. Juli 2011 16:31
An: jhhasty at gdhs.com; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch

John, A lot of the racers I know with TR3, TR4 and TR6 (mine included) are
using a Tilton rally clutch.  They use a 7.25" clutch and disc and aren't
prone to the problems all the others are.  The main problem is the stock
style TR6 clutch (which is what are most adapted to) is that the tabs that
connect the cover to the pressure plate are only made to hold the pressure
plate in acceleration mode and if you down shift or rev the engine with the
clutch disengaged, the tabs will distort or break causing the pressure plate

to get off center.
The other advantage is the weight savings of the rally clutch, about half
the weight.
I've used the Saab turbo version of the TR6 pressure plate and several other

"racing" clutches and all have failed, I've been using the Tilton for about
3 years now with no problems. Quartermaster makes a similar clutch and
contrary to belief, the parts are not interchangeable.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 29 08:11:23 2011
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 10:11:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 7 lb TR flywheel - SOLD
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHQTtMwtkr_zwkE9vag=7o+LwaTggzR47033tR9znhQSw@mail.gmail.com>

 Flywheel has been sold.

Thanks.

From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Fri Jul 29 13:18:42 2011
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:18:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire/GT6 spring spacers needed
Message-ID: <op.vzealg00airs7i@don-pc.belkin>

Does anyone have a couple Spitfire/GT6/Herald spring spacers sitting on  
the shelf that they'd be willing to part with?  I need to increase the  
ride height of the Spit racer that I'm putting back together after a long  
SCCA career to clear the taller tires for vintage.  I know I can shim  
between the spring retainer and chassis but I may need more distance than  
that will allow so spring spacers may be necessary in addition to shims.   
I'm pretty sure all GT6s came with spacers on the drivers side and  
possibly Heralds as well.  Naturally, I'm happy to pay shipping and a  
reasonable amount for them.  Thanks, Don
--

From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Jul 29 13:27:54 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:27:54 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>
References: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W605C67F9B63AE96E581485DF370@phx.gbl>

Dick Stockton using a computer? Wow, that alone is worth the second or number
fifty for this great guy and racer and my old friend of 50 years.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: REK46 at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:23:01 -0400
> To: yellow04 at tr4racer.com; fot at autox.team.net
> CC: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
>
> I'll second it for sure...knew Dick from when I started racing a TR-250 in
> '68 , at Nelson Ledges.
>
>
> In a message dated 7/29/2011 8:09:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com writes:
>
> Sorry  about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true
> miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is
> right with the world again...
>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday,  he would like to get on the FOT list.
> May I get a second?
>
> For those  of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
> Starting racing  in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an
> Austin
> Healey 3000,  Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva
> MKIV. Triumph  TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place
> finish after  overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving
> with Bob  Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED
> Div
> 2nd  (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of
> Group  44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race
> of
> the  season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the
> "Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967
> American
> Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd)  , ARRC
> Pole
> 3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra  (CSX2009) NE
> Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan.  Front runner in
> IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid  Ohio 6 Hour
> Class
> A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class  in a Dick
> Stockton
> built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first  professional victory in the
> North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all  of the 90s before buying
> back
> his old TR4 and started vintage racing in  2002. Ran a disco "blue and
> orange" paint scheme until he repainted the  car black in 2008.
>
> Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry  "Racer" Walsh, Jerry
> Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime  Rock.
>
> Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he  retired in
> 1996.
> Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early  60s. Dick lent
> out
> his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car  there. Did tuning
> work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti,  Ken Slagle, Al
> Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to  Penske racing
> where
> they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also  a long time
> employee.
>
> ~~~
>
> While Dick is certainly no newcomer to  the racing scene, he it to the
> computer world. I am not sure he has found  the Reply button yet!
>
> Cheers
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net

From jfrymark at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 16:21:38 2011
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:21:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>

I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to  
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very  
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better  
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design  
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html 
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have  
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and  
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes  
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes  
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per  
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original  
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention  
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 29 17:19:01 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:19:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE1C5D08BDD967-164C-322E8@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>

just a reminder...

with CHRIS MARX's new VITON seal you can have the best of all worlds by
retaining the scroll seal function and add the benefit of the superior VITON
seal.

consider ordering the crankshafts with the scroll seal so you can use the
VITON seal too.

Chris is getting good reports on this viton seal application, and so am I.





-----Original Message-----
From: John Frymark <jfrymark at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 29, 2011 5:43 pm
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft


I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 29 18:23:32 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:23:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>

John,
Is it too early to determine whether a group buy will result in a discounted
price?
Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 5 #6 red

On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:21 PM, John Frymark wrote:

> I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
> pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
> specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
> option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
> like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
> ). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
> the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
> contact me off-line.
>
> For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
> additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:
>
> $2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
> balancing.
>
> Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
> Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
> scroll seal flange.
>
> Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge
>
> $100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)
>
> Actual shipping charges for delivery
>
> No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)
>
> 50% Deposit required.
>
> 14 week delivery
>
> Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
> "FoT Deal".
>
> See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.
>
> (They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)
>
>
>
>
> John Frymark
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com

From jfrymark at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 19:52:54 2011
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 18:52:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
	<678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <53929CE8-B3FD-42D5-B4E3-79C7865F77C1@aol.com>

Duncan,
If any one person wants to step forward and be financially responsible  
for a several-unit order they should call David. I'm sure he was  
thinking this FOT Deal pricing might bring in "a few" individual  
orders that he can run simultaneously through his operation. His price  
is lower than what Moldex and Crower have quoted and a whole heck of a  
lot less than Racetorations.

John
On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:23 PM, Duncan Charlton wrote:

> John,
> Is it too early to determine whether a group buy will result in a  
> discounted price?
> Duncan
> (Texas)
> 1952 Morgan Plus 5 #6 red
>
> On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:21 PM, John Frymark wrote:
>
>> I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
>> pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
>> specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
>> option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
>> like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
>> ). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
>> the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
>> contact me off-line.
>>
>> For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
>> additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:
>>
>> $2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
>> balancing.
>>
>> Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
>> Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
>> scroll seal flange.
>>
>> Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge
>>
>> $100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy,  
>> Honda)
>>
>> Actual shipping charges for delivery
>>
>> No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)
>>
>> 50% Deposit required.
>>
>> 14 week delivery
>>
>> Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
>> "FoT Deal".
>>
>> See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.
>>
>> (They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> John Frymark
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com

From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 12:23:59 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
In-Reply-To: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <180D66AE-40EC-4715-95A3-BDA3E676EF9E@aol.com>

4 hours into VIR we running 24th of 84

God save the queen

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2011, at 3:49 PM, Jamie Palmer <tr6driver at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
> now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised
if
> we end the race with it looking like this!
>
> It's hard to believe we started
> with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back
in
> the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
> Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6
was
> totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was
very
> helpful!
>
> Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
> write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
>
> Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to
purchase
> two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just
aren't
> quite straight anymore!
>
> http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
>
> Jamie Palmer
> Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com

From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 12:46:24 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:46:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
In-Reply-To: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79B0FFDA-9FBD-4DF6-B882-1C981BEE26EE@aol.com>

4 hrs 35 mins in
22nd place

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2011, at 3:49 PM, Jamie Palmer <tr6driver at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
> now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised
if
> we end the race with it looking like this!
>
> It's hard to believe we started
> with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back
in
> the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
> Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6
was
> totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was
very
> helpful!
>
> Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
> write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
>
> Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to
purchase
> two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just
aren't
> quite straight anymore!
>
> http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
>
> Jamie Palmer
> Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul 30 13:24:59 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 15:24:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Body Tub
Message-ID: <42F53E1FB27E4C87A2034A32B429F1F2@userb38463fba5>

I have a TR4A body tub with doors and fiberglass rear fenders sitting on a TR6
new body shipping frame (the frame that the big 3 get their TR6 new bodies
shipped from England) available. Some rust in the likely places but never
bent. I've owned the car since 1969. I restored my car with a near perfect tub
from Texas so this is excess to me.
I'd like $500.00 for the tub and shipping frame.
Any interest? I may be interested in selling pieces if no one wants the whole
thing.
I may keep the doors.
JVV

From gasket.works at verizon.net  Sat Jul 30 13:33:10 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 12:33:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Just some history... and some extra color.
Message-ID: <002001cc4eef$847879a0$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

  I thought I would put down on paper some interesting notes.  You may have
seen the You tube videos that some of the Fot members have posted on 2011 Kas
Cup race at Laguna Seca.

    For those who are not familiar...

  Mr. Jerry Barker (winner of the Kas Cup 2011)  has some interesting
backround... See the links.

  http://www.flickriver.com/photos/27666849 at N04/3369691006/

  His Dad Mr.  Ed  Barker raced with Kas.  You may notice that he was entered
in 1965 Sebring and raced with my Father in Law Mr. Mike Rothschild.

  http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/results/Ed-Barker-USA.html?page=2

  The Baby Doll Morgan driven by Mr. Greg Solow  has some marvelous history.
Here is a simple link.
   http://www.forbes.com/2002/09/24/0924vow.html

  The TR250K has had some marvelous previous drivers over the years.  One
driver has some interesting history as well, Mr William (Bill) Watkins.   He
is an engineer by trade.  Accomplishments include many but, a couple are sort
of interesting (at least for me).  He engineered the Dysneyland Space Mountain
ride. In fact he received a patent for some of his efforts. He was so into
safety that he would not allow anyone to ride on it until he gave the thumbs
up.
  http://www.fot-racing.com/historic/caption/TR250k.htm
  http://www.mouseplanet.com/7138/DL_Space_Mountain_Part_2


  The second accopmplishement was suspending my Garage roof.  He was in need
of some gaskets for his racer in New Zealand.  He came to me and asked me to
make them for him.    I could not accept any money from him as it was an
honor.   He said that he would not leave until we agreed to a price.  So, I
traded him for engineering work to suspend my Metal Garage Roof so that I had
a clear span.  I told him that I wanted it our of Wood not metal.   He did the
calc's and told me precisely what was needed.  The roof only dropped .125" of
an inch when I finished.

  Currently, the 250k isowned by Mr. Bill Hart and  driven by Mr. Tony Garmey
... Can you very fast.



  Mordy

From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 15:08:59 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 17:08:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>

21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
 
we shall keep calm and carry on
 
Jack Mc

From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 17:14:20 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 19:14:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
In-Reply-To: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
References: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>

Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:

> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>
> we shall keep calm and carry on
>
> Jack Mc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com

From jason at multivintage.com  Sat Jul 30 17:43:47 2011
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 23:43:47 +0000
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <mailman.19.1312069445.3298.fot@autox.team.net>

Use the rain line!
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
------Original Message------
From: Jack Mc
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: LimeyV8 at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Sent: Jul 30, 2011 6:14 PM

Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:

> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>
> we shall keep calm and carry on
>
> Jack Mc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com



Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sun Jul 31 03:21:00 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 05:21:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
In-Reply-To: <05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>
References: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
	<05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>
Message-ID: <85D07286-4BC8-4535-BC7C-C82E957B79D6@aol.com>

17th @ 5:20 am

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 7:14 PM, Jack Mc <LimeyV8 at aol.com> wrote:

> Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course
>
> Jack Mc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>>
>> we shall keep calm and carry on
>>
>> Jack Mc
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 07:23:33 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:23:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
Message-ID: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using 
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial 
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I 
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian 
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the 
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal 
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the 
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some 
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end 
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV 
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head 
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to 
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no 
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the 
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Jul 31 08:50:09 2011
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:50:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <D230C37F7F8E467DB2AFF07AFE4CA0B4@latitudefb1e41>

I guess it all depends on the crank dimensions. I have an incorrect crank 
dimension on a
TR4 due to a machine shop error. I sanded down the aluminum pieces to 
tighten up the fit, trimmed the seal and shortened the spring. It still 
leaks but the PO had vented the crankcase to the exhaust pipe and I'm 
thinking that suction keeps it manageable.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 8:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap


> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
> ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
> ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
> History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using the 
> split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial build 
> I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I packed 
> the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket 
> Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces. 
> Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  I cleaned up 
> the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the shellac in the 
> cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal housing and on the 
> block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the world until it 
> dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some shellac also 
> dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.
>
> This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end of 
> the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  Same 
> assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV on the 
> seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head and 
> pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to the 
> cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly. 
> Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
> from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
> as the last time.
>
> Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
> sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
> with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
> occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no idea 
> what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the shellac 
> and it pours past the felt strips.
>
> TIA
>
> jim
>
> -- 
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 09:09:24 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:09:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.20.1312124982.3298.fot@autox.team.net>

I never heard that shellac for engines only for music recordings.
I soak the felt in Hylomar or if that is not available in silicone.
As woraround you can try to cover the bearing cap boundings with silicone.

Chris
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:23:33 
To: fot<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using 
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial 
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I 
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian 
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the 
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal 
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the 
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some 
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end 
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV 
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head 
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to 
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no 
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the 
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 09:58:38 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:58:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <4E357BAE.40707@blacksburg.net>

On 7/31/2011 9:23 AM, J.C. Hassall wrote:
> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
> ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
> ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
Tnx for the responses, here's additional background.  The engine has 
less than 300 miles on a complete rebuild, although the rings should be 
fairly well seated by now (WOT in 3rd, then back off, etc).  The block 
is vented by the usual draft tube, valve cover with the stock mesh 
filler cap.  (The original intent of this car was autoxing, but now it 
seems to be a garage ornament). I have not as yet tied the block vent to 
the exhaust, still trying to figure where to put the venturi downstream 
from the O2 sensor.

My theory is that the shellac is the culprit, since (I believe) it 
should set up hard and stay that way, thus forming an impregnable seal 
with the felt.  What are folks using to soak the felt?

I can't change to Chris' seal, as the crank has been turned to the 2.500 
dimension, balanced and nitrided.  I should consider that a sunk cost 
and just get another crank, but the Navy could have built another 
aircraft carrier for what I've sunk in the ole buggy, so I need to take 
SWMBO for a successful spin first. :-)

j

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 10:10:50 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:10:50 +0200
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002301cc4f9c$6d0e06b0$472a1410$@com>

Sounds very interesting to me.
Especially that you can run the scroll version.
Would be a very good Christmas present.
I'm really tempted.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von John Frymark
Gesendet: Samstag, 30. Juli 2011 00:22
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft

I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 10:19:45 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:19:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <002401cc4f9d$abb223a0$03166ae0$@com>

I had a look on the property of shellac. It does melt at about 1300C and
does not resist to water and some other chemicals. Engine oil was not
mentioned but as it can be solute in ethanol.

I think that is not a proper sealant for engines.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von J.C. Hassall
Gesendet: Sonntag, 31. Juli 2011 15:24
An: fot
Betreff: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of),
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 31 12:46:52 2011
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:46:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <96EE4A2F-E00F-4A19-B218-67253B6AD4CF@earthlink.net>

i use permatex aviation forn-a-gasket sealant item number 80017. soak the felt
strips for a few days. make sure the mains are align- honed in the block and
double check the crank, and alum seal dimensions.

Steve

On Jul 31, 2011, at 6:23 AM, "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net wrote:

> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped ~1/2cup of
oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
> History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using the
split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial build I
shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I packed the
grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac
and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac
oozed into the block and also on the outside.  I cleaned up the inside with
lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the shellac in the cap).  I put a very
thin film of RTV inside the seal housing and on the block to housing
interface.  All seemed good with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil,
leading to the current rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of
the block down the inspection plate.
>
> This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end of
the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  Same
assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV on the seal
housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head and pounded them
home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to the cap groove
contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  Shellac oozed into /
out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped from the hot engine, but
only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads as the last time.
>
> Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), with
no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak occurred last
night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no idea what.
HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the shellac and it pours
past the felt strips.
>
> TIA
>
> jim
>
> --
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net

From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Sun Jul 31 12:43:36 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:43:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>

First you need to determine exactly where the leakage is coming from by 
close examination of the back of the engine and the flywheel. is the leakage 
out of the seal itself onto the flywheel and then covering the front face of 
the flywheel? Is the leakage from the sides of the main cap where it meets 
the block?
    For years we have used "silicone sealer" along with the felt packing on 
the sides of the main cap. We cut the packing into pieces about 3/8" long. 
During the packing process we look for the sealer to come out in a solid 
line beginning at the very bottom corner (as the block is upside down) and 
continuing all the way up to the pan gasket surface. Then we wipe off the 
excess.
    As for the seal itself. I would get a round piece of stock the same size 
as the seal surface on your crank. Fit the seal around that surface with the 
spring in place on the seal. hold the seal in one hand and look at the way 
it fits against the metal surface. Is the sealing lip deflected (it should 
be), you should be able to move the seal radially from side to side up to 
almost 1/8"  and not see light anywhere around the seal lip where it fits 
against the "dummy crank".
    Lastly, it is imperative that the aluminum seal holder halves fit 
tightly against one another while at the same time not holding the rear main 
cap up from seating firmly against the block!  We have seen this situation 
where the cap will not seat all the way down against the block because the 
seal holder is mismachined and when it is bolted to the block and cap, the 
holder faces touch before the cap will touch the block. The center of the 
seal holder must also be nearly perfectly centered on the crankshaft. You 
must use a centering tool of some kind to make sure this is so.
    If you get all of this right, the seal should only leak a tiny bit. We 
have never been able to make this type of seal completely dry as we have our 
Chrysler seal conversion. But without building the size of the crank back up 
you are stuck with the seal you are tying to use.
                                                                             
                        Greg Solow 

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 13:20:45 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:20:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
	<1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>
Message-ID: <4E35AB0D.7000406@blacksburg.net>

On 7/31/2011 2:43 PM, Greg Solow wrote:
> First you need to determine exactly where the leakage is coming from 
> by close examination of the back of the engine and the flywheel. is 
> the leakage out of the seal itself onto the flywheel and then covering 
> the front face of the flywheel? Is the leakage from the sides of the 
> main cap where it meets the block?
>    For years we have used "silicone sealer" along with the felt 
> packing on the sides of the main cap. We cut the packing into pieces 
> about 3/8" long. During the packing process we look for the sealer to 
> come out in a solid line beginning at the very bottom corner (as the 
> block is upside down) and continuing all the way up to the pan gasket 
> surface. Then we wipe off the excess.

Tnx Greg, that's what I was looking for.  What "silicone sealer" did you 
use?  I had a thin line of shellac down both sides of the cap and used 
lacquer thinner sparingly to clean it on the inside, left it alone on 
the outside.

>    As for the seal itself. I would get a round piece of stock the same 
> size as the seal surface on your crank. Fit the seal around that 
> surface with the spring in place on the seal. hold the seal in one 
> hand and look at the way it fits against the metal surface. Is the 
> sealing lip deflected (it should be), you should be able to move the 
> seal radially from side to side up to 
almost 1/8"  and not see light anywhere around the seal lip where it 
fits against the "dummy crank".

Yup, did that, even put oil on the "dummy crank" to see if it seeped 
thru ("down") after a few days - it was dry (this after trimming the 
spring and seal again).

>    Lastly, it is imperative that the aluminum seal holder halves fit 
> tightly against one another while at the same time not holding the 
> rear main cap up from seating firmly against the block!  We have seen 
> this situation where the cap will not seat all the way down against 
> the block because the seal holder is mismachined and when it is bolted 
> to the block and cap, the holder faces touch before the cap will touch 
> the block. The center of the seal holder must also be nearly perfectly 
> centered on the crankshaft. You must use a centering tool of some kind 
> to make sure this is so.

That may be an issue, as I put a thin film of RTV on the seal holder 
mating faces as the cap was installed.  After the cap was tight I tapped 
the seal holder along the axis of the cap and tightened it.  The holder 
on the cap was loose-ish, so should not have prevented the cap from 
fully seating, but who knows?  I guess I need to have an alignment tool 
made to key on the journal OD and seal holder ID, just to be sure.  But 
at this point I'm fairly convinced that the problem is the shellac 
turning to goo, as the seal holders are dry.

Another issue could be how saturated the felt strips were.  Steve Belfer 
suggested soaking them for a few days, I only soaked these for a couple 
of hours.  I may have pounded the surface shellac out of them, leaving 
rather dry felt.

>    If you get all of this right, the seal should only leak a tiny bit. 
> We have never been able to make this type of seal completely dry as we 
> have our Chrysler seal conversion. But without building the size of 
> the crank back up you are stuck with the seal you are tying to use.
>                                                                             
>                        Greg Solow
>

Tnx again to all who responded, I'll post results later.

j

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 31 15:28:14 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 16:28:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>

Your assembly sounds exactly like mine, and I got it to not leak very 
much this year.  The one change I made (due to a dialog on this forum 
a while back) is to:
1. Make sure that the vent tube that goes through the rear main from 
the rear seal to below the crank is open.
2. Drill two extra 3/8" holes in the rear main cap parallel to the 
built in vent tube on either side of the vent tube.  If you don't 
give the oil any place to go, it will go out the rear main no matter 
HOW good the seal is.

I suspect the above is your issue - you can get a little oil through 
the vent tube (works on the starter) but not a lot of oil through the 
vent tube (doesn't work when engine is running).

The Indian Head Shellac has worked fine for me (and for Uncle Jack) 
for years - that's not your problem.  I do not soak the felt for more 
than a few seconds.  It does come out both sides of the gap between 
the main and the block and is messy.

Also, make sure that you're not really leaking from somewhere else 
like the cam plug or the end of the main oil gallery.  Both of those 
will fill up your bellhousing in no time.

Tony Drews

At 08:23 AM 7/31/2011, J.C. Hassall wrote:
>Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
>("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
>~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
>History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm 
>using the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On 
>the initial build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon 
>with Uncle Jack. I packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of 
>felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out 
>of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the 
>block and also on the outside.
>I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin 
>the shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the 
>seal housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good 
>with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current 
>rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of the block down 
>the inspection plate.
>
>This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the 
>end of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
>Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more 
>RTV on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same 
>Indian Head and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch 
>which conformed to the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt 
>was pounded uniformly.
>Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also 
>dripped from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the 
>thick beads as the last time.
>
>Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 
>3 sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think 
>of), with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last 
>leak occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but 
>have no idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil 
>thins the shellac and it pours past the felt strips.
>
>TIA
>
>jim
>
>--
>Jim Hassall
>Blacksburg VA
>'63 TR4 in autox preparation
>99% finished, 90% to go
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 31 16:09:15 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 17:09:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
	<20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110731220932.D2007187974@autox.team.net>

To be clear, it's drill two holes, one on either side of the vent tube...

Tony

At 04:28 PM 7/31/2011, Tony Drews wrote:
>Your assembly sounds exactly like mine, and I got it to not leak 
>very much this year.  The one change I made (due to a dialog on this 
>forum a while back) is to:
>1. Make sure that the vent tube that goes through the rear main from 
>the rear seal to below the crank is open.
>2. Drill two extra 3/8" holes in the rear main cap parallel to the 
>built in vent tube on either side of the vent tube.  If you don't 
>give the oil any place to go, it will go out the rear main no matter 
>HOW good the seal is.
>
>I suspect the above is your issue - you can get a little oil through 
>the vent tube (works on the starter) but not a lot of oil through 
>the vent tube (doesn't work when engine is running).
>
>The Indian Head Shellac has worked fine for me (and for Uncle Jack) 
>for years - that's not your problem.  I do not soak the felt for 
>more than a few seconds.  It does come out both sides of the gap 
>between the main and the block and is messy.
>
>Also, make sure that you're not really leaking from somewhere else 
>like the cam plug or the end of the main oil gallery.  Both of those 
>will fill up your bellhousing in no time.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 08:23 AM 7/31/2011, J.C. Hassall wrote:
>>Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still 
>>leaking ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time 
>>it dumped ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>>
>>History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm 
>>using the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On 
>>the initial build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon 
>>with Uncle Jack. I packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of 
>>felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out 
>>of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the 
>>block and also on the outside.
>>I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not 
>>thin the shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside 
>>the seal housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed 
>>good with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the 
>>current rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of the 
>>block down the inspection plate.
>>
>>This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the 
>>end of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
>>Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more 
>>RTV on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same 
>>Indian Head and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch 
>>which conformed to the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt 
>>was pounded uniformly.
>>Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also 
>>dripped from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not 
>>the thick beads as the last time.
>>
>>Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter 
>>for 3 sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could 
>>think of), with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this 
>>last leak occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, 
>>but have no idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot 
>>oil thins the shellac and it pours past the felt strips.
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>jim
>>
>>--
>>Jim Hassall
>>Blacksburg VA
>>'63 TR4 in autox preparation
>>99% finished, 90% to go
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sun Jul 31 16:21:22 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <8e39.5f7e23b4.3b672f62@aol.com>

The last few hours of the race were really "interesting" - on-line  timing 
and scoring (which most of us were able to follow on our stupid smart  
phones throughout most of the race) went dark in the last hour of the race, but  
we THINK we finished 19th 
remarkable, considering that Sunday morning we
- tore the center out of the left front wheel (Jamie  driving)
- completely wore out the front brake pads and blew a piston out of a  
caliper - replaced both brake calipers in our lengthiest pit stop of the race  
(me driving)
- had a right rear tire go suddenly flat when somebody got close  enough on 
track to shear off the valve stem (Wayne Andrews driving)
 
- oh yeah - we lost the starter before the sun came up on Sunday,  but this 
was a barely a minor inconvenience since the car can be push  started in 
about 3 feet in first gear and I don't believe anybody went off track  bad 
enough to stall the car throughout the whole 24 hours...okay, 27 hours, if  you 
count the track reconfiguration breaks and the lightening delay
 
So - at the end of the event we drove a mostly unscathed, still good  
running car back on the trailer and all went home smiling with a top 20  finish. 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 7/31/2011 11:55:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tedtsimx at bright.net writes:

What is current  status?  It,s been 3 hours since we heard anything.  Great 
job so.  Keep it going.  Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon  Wireless


-----Original message-----

From: Jack Mc  <LimeyV8 at aol.com>
To: Jack Mc  <LimeyV8 at aol.com>
Cc: "fot at autox.team.net"  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 31, 2011 09:21:00  GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR  update


17th @ 5:20 am

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul  30, 2011, at 7:14 PM, Jack Mc <limeyv8 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart 
 in
19th place on a very wet course
>
> Jack  Mc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2011, at  5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> 21st place (84 cars  started) 7 hours in
>>
>> we shall keep calm and carry  on
>>
>> Jack Mc
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> _http://www.fot-racing.com_ (http://www.fot-racing.com/) 
>>
>>  Donate: _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ 
(http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
>>  Archive: _http://www.team.net/archive_ (http://www.team.net/archive) 
>>  Forums: _http://www.team.net/forums_ (http://www.team.net/forums) 
>>  Unsubscribe: 
_http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com_ (http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com) 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

_http://www.fot-racing.com_ (http://www.fot-racing.com/) 

Donate:  _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ 
(http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
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Unsubscribe:  
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 06:15:40 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:15:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by
In-Reply-To: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE05FFB9BAA7FC-1DF0-5D8A2@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT






 Curtis has a website on British Race Cars.

He doesnt know much about Triumphs so I introduced him to Bob Wismer  and
Dennis Delap at VIR.

He did an extensive photo/journal on the THUNDERBOLT and JUST published an
article on Dennis' new modified TVR '2200'.

He is in Seattle right now.  He will stop in to visit you NW GUYS.

Very pleasant guy and an opportunity to showcase our Triumphs as well
providing some owner with a rather comprehensive document on your Triumph.

BRITISHRACECAR.COM    is the website, I believe.

PACK A LUNCH...the articles are very comprehensive and long.

Who is going to be next?

Joe A


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 06:38:46 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:38:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
Message-ID: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  1 07:09:14 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:09:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT list
Message-ID: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>

I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 07:29:23 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:29:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT list  attn: mark bradakis
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 MARK B is the guy.

we dont want to lose Bill Tobin

i also have an address that shows only '3' instead of '31'      which is
correct?









-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:22 am
Subject: [Fot] FOT list


I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill
changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Jul  1 07:36:55 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 06:36:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E0DCD77.1030607@comcast.net>

Second and welcome Bob & Becky - They are great folks and there is a TR6 
involved.  They are getting married next weekend at the Portland 
Historic Races.

On 7/1/2011 5:38 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>   Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
> into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.
>
> Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others
>
> bob at nwspeedshots.com
>
> Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.
>
> I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY
>
> I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.
>
> Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 08:04:36 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 10:04:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] [CWE] SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by
In-Reply-To: <57E2823E71FA4C778C081351576CEAA2@Charly>
References: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<57E2823E71FA4C778C081351576CEAA2@Charly>
Message-ID: <8CE060EF1FCFC3C-D80-35D45@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com>

 will do....

he has a gallery of race cars, as well as the major articles....a few are
listed in it.

like jeff snook, george wright and scott janzen.

it would be nice to have all of the FOT  in there.








-----Original Message-----
From: Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: cwe <cwe at autox.team.net>; n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:43 am
Subject: Re: [CWE] SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by


Joe, if you can let him know we are all grouped in one area in the paddock,
Jeff Quick, Steve Hare, Mark York, Mike Mehl and myself.
Thanks,
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

----- Original Message -----

From:   n197tr4 at cs.com

To: cwe at autox.team.net

Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 5:05 AM

Subject: [CWE] SEATTLE SOVERN look for   Curtis to stop by




Curtis has a website on British   Race Cars.

He doesnt know much about Triumphs so I introduced him to   Bob Wismer Dennis
Delap at VIR.

He did an extensive photo/journal on   the THUNDERBOLT and was working on
Dennis' new modified TVR the last I   knew.

He is in Seattle right now.  He will stop in to visit you NW   GUYS.

Very pleasant guy and an opportunity to showcase our Triumphs as   well
providing some owner with a rather comprehensive document on your   Triumph.

BRITISHRACECAR.COM    is the website, I   believe.

Joe A










_______________________________________________
Cwe mailing   list
Cwe at autox.team.net

Donate:   http://www.team.net/donate.html

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/cwe/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  1 08:29:16 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 10:29:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT list  attn: mark bradakis
In-Reply-To: <8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>,
	<8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <blu160-w20B61D5CD95DB7B47E7669BA5B0@phx.gbl>

The "31" is correct.  He must have wore out the "3" one.  :)

Marty




To: trmarty at hotmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT list attn: mark bradakis
From: n197tr4 at cs.com
CC: william.tobin31 at verizon.net
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:29:23 -0400


MARK B is the guy.

we dont want to lose Bill Tobin

i also have an address that shows only '3' instead of '31'      which is
correct?









-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:22 am
Subject: [Fot] FOT list


I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill
changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Fri Jul  1 11:05:45 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 13:05:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
Message-ID: <wyv5xxrqywm3f4vwu402jvxw.1309539945860@email.android.com>

Jim Norlin <norlinengineering at comcast.net> wrote:

>Second and welcome Bob & Becky - They are great folks and there is a TR6 
>involved.  They are getting married next weekend at the Portland 
>Historic Races.
>
>On 7/1/2011 5:38 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>>   Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
>> into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.
>>
>> Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others
>>
>> bob at nwspeedshots.com
>>
>> Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.
>>
>> I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY
>>
>> I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.
>>
>> Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Jul  1 20:25:10 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
Message-ID: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!! Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Jul  1 20:59:41 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:59:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <4E0E899D.60705@comcast.net>

I don't know about the arc grinding.  I expect if you found a shop 
that's been around for 50 years, they probably still have the 
capability.  I run Porterfield  shoes on the rear of my Spitfire.  Last 
summer, I was changing shoes (the day before the race naturally) and 
they wouldn't fit inside my drums.   Took a while to find a shop that 
could machine out the little things, but I finally did and was able to 
get them to work.  Ordered another set of new drums, so now I carry 2 
sets and should be able to field fit whatever I get sent.  Most often, I 
seem to find myself changing shoes at the track.

On 7/1/2011 7:25 PM, william r tobin wrote:
> Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
> weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
> Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
> nice race. Good luck at the race!
> I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
> I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!! Actually
> she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
> the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
> drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
> I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
> week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me
> a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
> rear linings.
> Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
> the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
> more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
> using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
> fit the drums?
> What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
> in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
> On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
> goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
> Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  1 22:02:01 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:02:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Saw Bob today at PNW Historics.  He stopped by our pits.  He said that he was
now part of FOT.  
Mike Mehl #46 TR4

From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: bob at nwspeedshots.com
Sent:
Friday, July 1, 2011 5:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH FOT NOMINATION
INCOMPLETE

Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated
and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for
VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are
scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on
TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please
welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Jul  2 03:07:42 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 11:07:42 +0200
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <000001cc3897$8360d440$8a227cc0$@com>

I use stock shoes from Lucas or any replacement type.
I have a set of racing Mintex shoes but never put them in so I don't know
how they would perform.
My rear cylinder are 1" of size.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von william r tobin
Gesendet: Samstag, 2. Juli 2011 04:25
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] I'm back

Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio
last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!!
Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend.
Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring
me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big
for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 04:52:05 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 06:52:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <8CE06BD376EAF9C-1798-3DD5D@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>

 Welcome back Bill,

I have always used stock rear shoes. Never tried anything else, but they seem
well suited for the job.

Will you be attending the PVGP?

Irv and I will be there be with our friends from WPTA and Tony Vigliotti.

Joe A.








-----Original Message-----
From: william r tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 9:37 pm
Subject: [Fot] I'm back


Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!!
Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring
me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 05:01:23 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 07:01:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>

 Bob and Becky are a great addition to the FOT group.

Watch for a report on their wedding the 9th of July

Question of the Day?

When you get married at Portland International, which side of the Start/Finish
Line do you stand on?








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>; mark <mark at bradakis.com>; fot
<fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: bob <bob at nwspeedshots.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 11:02 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE



Saw Bob today at PNW Historics.  He stopped by our pits.  He said that he was
now part of FOT.
Mike Mehl #46 TR4




From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: bob at nwspeedshots.com
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2011 5:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH FOT NOMINATION INCOMPLETE

Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Jul  2 07:12:07 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2011 06:12:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>

On 7/2/11 4:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> Question of the Day?
>
> When you get married at Portland International, which side of the Start/Finish
> Line do you stand on?
>    
Maybe both?

"I now pronounce you husband and wife.  You may now cross the start 
line, receive the green flag and kiss the bride"


Teriann


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 08:20:38 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 10:20:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com><1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
	<4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE06DA593FFA57-1A9C-1293A@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>

 Green Flag FOLLOWED by Checkered.










-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 2, 2011 8:23 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE


On 7/2/11 4:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> Question of the Day?
>
> When you get married at Portland International, which side of the
Start/Finish
> Line do you stand on?
>
Maybe both?

"I now pronounce you husband and wife.  You may now cross the start
line, receive the green flag and kiss the bride"


Teriann
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From rikrock at live.com  Sat Jul  2 13:55:00 2011
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:55:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Message-ID: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 19:57:35 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 19:57:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>

Steve Yott makes the best with a custom made impeller.

Jim G. 



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rich Rock
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 1:55 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 20:17:51 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 20:17:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines
Message-ID: <20110703022103.2E1DE18764C@autox.team.net>

FoT,

I have a little more play than I care for in my steering wheel. It comes
from the hub splines.

It's a new hub so wear isn't a factor. I had considered running a little tig
weld on the splines

and dress it down to fit snug.

Has anyone got any hot tips that don't require welding ?

 

Thanks as always,

 

Jim g


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 21:10:35 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 20:10:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines
References: <20110703022103.2E1DE18764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <84C9F2EB082D4A5FA54741DA1955C056@Bud>

Did you examine the shaft splines?
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 7:17 PM
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines


> FoT,
>
> I have a little more play than I care for in my steering wheel. It comes
> from the hub splines.
>
> It's a new hub so wear isn't a factor. I had considered running a little 
> tig
> weld on the splines
>
> and dress it down to fit snug.
>
> Has anyone got any hot tips that don't require welding ?
>
>
>
> Thanks as always,
>
>
>
> Jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 22:45:32 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 00:45:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  I'm back (rear brake shoes)
Message-ID: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>

If you can not fit the shoes into the drum, and can not get a shop to arc  
them, file the metal ends of the shoes that fit into the adjuster and  
cylinder ends till the drums will fit with the required click or two of free  
play.  This is an emergency patch that I have used a number of times.   Check 
after the first session to see if the shoes have reasonable contact with  the 
drum. 
 Is anything bent or not aligned?
 
TR Regards,
Hardy
 

Date:  Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
From: "william r tobin"  <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] I'm  back
<snip>
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too  big 
for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out  .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm  also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake  linings 
to
fit the drums?
<snip>.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L.  Racing


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  2 23:18:21 2011
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 22:18:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
References: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1309670301.59590.YahooMailRC@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greg Solow at The Engine Room makes a massively improved re-engineered oil pump, 
eliminates all the weak spots. Been using it for 3 race seasons.
Regards,
Gary Schneider
EP TR4 




________________________________
From: Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, July 2, 2011 2:55:00 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 23:33:21 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 01:33:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Colortune spark plugs
Message-ID: <1064.40dae6b7.3b415921@aol.com>

I first tried the colortune after the then "The Autocar" had a  positive 
test of it in the early 70s.
For a street car with SUs (or Stroms) it is great, because a  production 
car with SUs has the proper mixture set at idle, and the properly  maintained 
carb deals with the rest.  I have used it to help tune (the  carbs are the 
last thing to adjust) a few hundred cars.  My  1967 tow  car would make the 
Calif emission testers look on in wonder with the 3 SUs  purring away with 
very low emissions, and it still purrs at 257,000  miles. You can see a 
fraction of a SU "flat" adjustment.  Applied  physics. 
 The instructions make it clear that it is not to be used at high  
RPM/load.   NFI
 
Hardy
 
From:  sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
To:  fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Colortune spark plugs

Is anybody  using Colortune spark plugs to any advantage?  Jim in Folsom,  
CA


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 23:40:48 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 01:40:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Freeing stuck pistons
Message-ID: <1139.5a6000de.3b415ae0@aol.com>

I always enjoyed the story that the Knock Off Hammer was for the wire  
wheels!
 
Been there, Hammered That,
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2011 7:06:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
To: billb <billb at bnj.com>;  kenandtweety <kenandtweety at yahoo.com>
Cc: fot  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 29, 2011 7:23 pm
Subject: Re:  [Fot] Freeing stuck pistons


It is just amazing how much you can  move with a BIG hammer and a short 
block
of wood if you don't have that  press handy. You buy the biggest hammer you
can
find and after thos job  you'll still have the hammer for furture work on  
fine
equipment.


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 00:37:28 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2011 23:37:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  I'm back (rear brake shoes)
In-Reply-To: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>
References: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E100E28.8090004@comcast.net>

I was thinking about doing this when that last set of shoes wouldn't 
fit.  Glad to hear it works in a pinch.

On 7/2/2011 9:45 PM, Catpusher at aol.com wrote:
> If you can not fit the shoes into the drum, and can not get a shop to arc
> them, file the metal ends of the shoes that fit into the adjuster and
> cylinder ends till the drums will fit with the required click or two of free
> play.  This is an emergency patch that I have used a number of times.   Check
> after the first session to see if the shoes have reasonable contact with  the
> drum.
>   Is anything bent or not aligned?
>
> TR Regards,
> Hardy
>
>
> Date:  Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
> From: "william r tobin"<william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
> To:<fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Fot] I'm  back
> <snip>
> Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too  big
> for
> the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out  .060 or
> more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm  also
> using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake  linings
> to
> fit the drums?
> <snip>.
> Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L.  Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 03:45:28 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 04:45:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>
References: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
	<20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyh-Hdu_y_2Gfbtb-P-iY1Bvg_k1c4DR_keq-J4=TR+XUA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 8:57 PM, Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> Steve Yott makes the best with a custom made impeller.
>


Steve currently is out of oil pumps is not likely to make up anymore.


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Sun Jul  3 07:44:51 2011
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:44:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>

From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 Timing
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:11:13 -0600





Good morning group, I just rebuilt my engine on my '69 Kmart TR6 (that means
it's safe to drive this one to Kmart) otherwise known as "Rusty".  I glanced
at the timing specs and set it at the 4 degrees at 800 of thereabouts.  I
broke in the cam and then, after plugging various oil leaks took her for a
spin.  The car felt fair but not as good as I would like so I came home and
put her to bed.  Most of the original vacuum set up is there, although not
properly hooked up.  I checked the timing yesterday and only one vacuum line
was hooked up.  Apparently this is the retard unit hooked up to a port
directly in front of the "5" stamped in the top of the carburetor.  This set
up hauls the advance backward at a progressively higher rate as you increase
rpms, ie 8-10 degrees at full advance.  The advance side of the distributor is
not hooked up.  I unplugged everything and set the timing at 30 degrees full
advance, but havent driven around the block.  There is another vacuum leak
every time I look at the thing. I lay all the blame for this directly at the
feet of the PREVIOUS OWNER.  I would also like to direct some blame to the BL
exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.

Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM


>
> Gary,
> The 69 TR6 has a little more complex distributor than what you're
> describing. It had a vacuum advance and a vacuum retard on the distributor
> and a system that operated the vacuum retard attached to the carbs. It also
> makes a difference where you connect your vacuum pipes. Some carbs have 2
> places to connect for vacuum. I've attached a page from The Roadster Factory
> blue book showing the vacuum pipes etc.
> I guess what I'm trying to tell you is if you don't have this system, which
> you probably don't because everyone took it off, you have to use a later
> spec to set the timing of your car. The later spec I believe used a quite
> different way of timing. Anyway, you need to understand which distributor
> you have and vacuum system and set the timing accordingly. Hope this helps.
> http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/51.php


From patrickmannion1 at netzero.net  Sun Jul  3 11:29:04 2011
From: patrickmannion1 at netzero.net (patrickmannion1 at netzero.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 17:29:04 GMT
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Message-ID: <20110703.102904.8675.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

We have seen the pin on the driven oil pump shaft on gears supplied by Moss
Motors come out and jam the oil pump gears causing failure, Greg Solow (Engine
Room Santa Cruz, CA 831 429-1800) has oil pump gears that the "pin" is
replaced with a threaded grub screw and the driven ear of the oil pump gear is
radiused to avoid the risk of the ear being a stress riser.
all the best,
Pat Mannion
Santa Cruz CA

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:55:00 -0400

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  3 11:35:27 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 10:35:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>

> I would also like to direct some 
> blame to the BL
> exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.

Actually, I believe the vacuum retard was a US requirement.  Possibly you
could blame BL for trying to keep the vacuum advance, but since it does
improve things, that part seems like a good idea.

And BL was certainly not the only company to use "dueling" modules.  My 1970
Audi had exactly the same setup and still made almost 1 hp/ci.

As you've no doubt realized by now, the port on top of the carb is for the
vacuum advance.  The retard port (if you have one) is on the bottom.  And
there is a difference.

-- Randall  


From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Jul  3 12:58:56 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 18:58:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	, <A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>, ,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>,
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>,
	<009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W497E250770EC21469004ACDF5D0@phx.gbl>

To kind of set the record straight, B/L had one hell'va time (along with
everyone else) trying to meet the emission requirement from 1967 onward. Then,
on top of that, the DOT crash requirement.  So much so that  the money set
aside or budgeted for upgrading design and new models went into that research
file.  Too bad. I was part of the chase on the engine side and it was just
terrible the cost and effort at the time. Emission control was the very first
thing on everyone's agenda. Use of the modern electronic injection,  ignition
and catalytic converters would have solved it then, just as it has in the
present cars.
Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 10:35:27 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
>
> > I would also like to direct some
> > blame to the BL
> > exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.
>
> Actually, I believe the vacuum retard was a US requirement.  Possibly you
> could blame BL for trying to keep the vacuum advance, but since it does
> improve things, that part seems like a good idea.
>
> And BL was certainly not the only company to use "dueling" modules.  My
1970
> Audi had exactly the same setup and still made almost 1 hp/ci.
>
> As you've no doubt realized by now, the port on top of the carb is for the
> vacuum advance.  The retard port (if you have one) is on the bottom.  And
> there is a difference.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From gaf3 at charter.net  Sun Jul  3 13:28:46 2011
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Sun, 03 Jul 2011 15:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E10C2EE.7040403@charter.net>

Henry
I just went through the same process on a later model 1974 with a retard 
mechanism and a 1970 with dualing advance mechansisms.
I set the basic timing to 12deg BTDC, left the retard diaphragm without 
a vacuum line.  On the later model I left the only diaphragm (retard) 
unplugged to vacuum.
Depending on your setup, I had triple Strombergs and dual downdraft Webers,
the only required vacuum is for the advance if available, Booster, and 
Crankcase ventilation.
Performance should be good with that setup..
Good luck
Glenn
On 7/3/2011 9:44 AM, Henry Morrison wrote:
> From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 Timing
> Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:11:13 -0600
>
>
>
>
>
> Good morning group, I just rebuilt my engine on my '69 Kmart TR6 (that means
> it's safe to drive this one to Kmart) otherwise known as "Rusty".  I glanced
> at the timing specs and set it at the 4 degrees at 800 of thereabouts.  I
> broke in the cam and then, after plugging various oil leaks took her for a
> spin.  The car felt fair but not as good as I would like so I came home and
> put her to bed.  Most of the original vacuum set up is there, although not
> properly hooked up.  I checked the timing yesterday and only one vacuum line
> was hooked up.  Apparently this is the retard unit hooked up to a port
> directly in front of the "5" stamped in the top of the carburetor.  This set
> up hauls the advance backward at a progressively higher rate as you increase
> rpms, ie 8-10 degrees at full advance.  The advance side of the distributor is
> not hooked up.  I unplugged everything and set the timing at 30 degrees full
> advance, but havent driven around the block.  There is another vacuum leak
> every time I look at the thing. I lay all the blame for this directly at the
> feet of the PREVIOUS OWNER.  I would also like to direct some blame to the BL
> exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 13:35:07 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 12:35:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>

Amazing 3D printer
RB

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul  3 14:10:16 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 16:10:16 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <15cb5.9e31314.3b4226a8@aol.com>

That's not really new anymore but it is still expensive.  The actual  
printer is (was) only about $1500 but the buildup material is very  expensive.  
Turns out it's a gypsum mix sold by my previous employer.
 
At a trade show about five years ago they built us a pill bottle with a  
helix body  AND the screw on cap in about twenty minutes.  I think my  partner 
across town still has it....
 
 
In a message dated 7/3/2011 12:59:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
budscars at comcast.net writes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  3 14:13:48 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 13:13:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
In-Reply-To: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>
References: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>
Message-ID: <00b401cc39bd$b865c020$0301a8c0@randall>

> Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things), how they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid up for over 20 years because no one could find a
water pump, and Jay's people just printed one.

-- Randall  


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul  3 14:51:30 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 16:51:30 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>

So they've reached the stage of metal deposition?  See what happens  when 
you turn your back for five years? ;-))
 
 
In a message dated 7/3/2011 1:50:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

>  Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
>  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this  month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things),  how they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid  up for over 20 years because no one could find 
a
water pump, and Jay's  people just printed one.

-- Randall   
_______________________________________________
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From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  3 20:05:31 2011
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 19:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
In-Reply-To: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>
References: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1309745131.70076.YahooMailRC@web80802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Actually, the metal systems have been around for about 10 years. I've
been
involved with this technology since 1987. We use ABS and an
acrylic resin in
the two systems that I run. (Total of 4 machines).
My company has systems that
allow us to make sand castings
for engines and components as well as other
uses. I can't talk about
the other uses. There are service bureaus that will
make any parts
that you can design. You can also use 3D imaging devices to
capture
out of production designs. This is what Leno's Garage did a couple of
years ago to recreate a piece of unobtanium for one of his early engines.
See:
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/nextengines_3d_scanner/944641

Jaguar has
used Additive Manufactured parts on some of their production
vehicles as the
parts weren't available from the supplier. Great for low
production vehicles.
You can also see an AM bodied vehicle if you search
on Urbee. I have some
photos that I took at our annual conference in
Minneapolis if anyone would
like to see them.

Doug



----- Original Message ----
From:
"Gt6steve at aol.com" <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: TR3driver at ca.rr.com;
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, July 3, 2011 4:51:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] MAKE
YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?

So they've reached the stage of metal deposition? 
See what happens  when 
you turn your back for five years? ;-))


In a message
dated 7/3/2011 1:50:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com
writes:

>  Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
> 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this 
month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things),  how
they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid  up for
over 20 years because no one could find 
a
water pump, and Jay's  people just
printed one.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Jul  4 14:27:02 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 13:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
Message-ID: <1309811222.88810.YahooMailRC@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

What is the best method to time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a Crane
ignition module?  I am using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected.  The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone 
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Jul  4 16:15:20 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 16:15:20 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <1309811222.88810.YahooMailRC@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110704221838.6C0AC187663@autox.team.net>

Your altitude and cam have everything to do with timing.
What altitude do you drive and what kind/spec of cam ?

Jim G.


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sherry robyn
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 2:27 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

What is the best method to time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a
Crane
ignition module?  I am using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected.  The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone 
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Jul  4 20:17:53 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 19:17:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
Message-ID: <1309832273.24258.YahooMailRC@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Jim, sea level is my altitude and my cam is stock.  Jim
To:
sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, July 4,
2011 3:15:20 PM
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

Your
altitude and cam have everything to do with timing.
What altitude do you drive
and what kind/spec of cam ?

Jim G.


-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of
sherry robyn
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 2:27 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

What is the best method to
time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a
Crane
ignition module?  I am
using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected. 
The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not
used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to
time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought
to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing
light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher
rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Jul  5 07:54:46 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 09:54:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <4013B7ECFD0C40A4862270EF95F10E5D@gdhs.local>

Carbo-Tech....Charlotte/Concord......great linings and pads......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
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and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
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any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of william r tobin
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 10:25 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] I'm back


Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio
last weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty. Marty is taking his
Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a nice race. Good
luck at the race! I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard
if he is. I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a
girl!!! Actually she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time
all weekend. Traded the lead several times in the feature. Her husband
(They're from Mesa AZ) drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple. I did have
some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous week for
routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me a new
pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also rear
linings. Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem
too big for the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic
out .060 or more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them.
I'm also using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake
linings to fit the drums? What are you guys using for rear linings? Any
thoughts? I'm taking the drums in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get
better lining contact. On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup
on and like all his goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the
balance though. Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Jul  5 19:00:37 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 21:00:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Message-ID: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>

 Anything going on in  NM the next several days?

I have some business there that could be enhanced by automotive or aircraft
museums or activities.

Any suggestions? Equal parts of entertainment help validate my retirement.

JOE A.


From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  5 21:37:59 2011
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (Steven Groh)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 23:37:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ALBUQUERQUE, NM
In-Reply-To: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DA729CEA-BF26-40CB-A71B-230DAF797330@comcast.net>

Visit the Unser Museum in ABQ!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2011, at 9:00 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:

> Anything going on in  NM the next several days?
> 
> I have some business there that could be enhanced by automotive or aircraft
> museums or activities.
> 
> Any suggestions? Equal parts of entertainment help validate my retirement.
> 
> JOE A.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From patrickmannion1 at netzero.net  Tue Jul  5 22:59:39 2011
From: patrickmannion1 at netzero.net (patrickmannion1 at netzero.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 04:59:39 GMT
Subject: [Fot] repeat 1500 Spitfire Head Gasket problems
Message-ID: <20110705.215939.12058.0@webmail19.vgs.untd.com>

Good evening,
I have a car that is getting the better of me.First engine had extensive work
done to it but machine shop installed a cylinder liner poorly resulting in
premature head gasket failure at the sealing surface between number 3 and 4
cylinder. Had to start again with a new block.

New engine was all gone though and re-bored (used oversize County pistons),
Payen head gasket (with correct sealing ring built into head gasket) and ARP
hardware. This "new engine" blew head gasket again with under 500 miles on
engine.

Engine did not over heat (has newly re-cored radiator, new thermostat and new
water pump), ignition timing is only 30 degrees total advance, premium gas,
9.5:1 compression, roller rockers, improved cam, ect......  Removed head, its
flat, block is flat. Head gasket is blown out right between cylinders 3 and 4
and just starting to go between cylinders 1 and 2. Recess in block is a
uniform .027" below the deck of the block on all four cylinder recesses.
Engine originally called for 46 ft/lb torque for head studs, I figured with
good ARP head bolts and nuts I could torque to 52 ft/lb cold with oil on the
threads. Measuring old fire ring crush surface versus new gasket it appeared
to crush about .010".

One posting I saw out of England was someone had used a set of .030" or .040"
pistons that had not been radiused and the edges of the piston crown ended up
touching the head gasket sealing ring causing it to fail head gaskets
prematurely. Another posting regarding repeat  1500 head gasket failure
suggested decking the block and bringing the recess down to .015" below the
deck of the block, others say remove the recess all together.

Has anyone experienced this before? My key question is what should be the
proper recess below the block? What would anyone suggest as head torque (cold
or hot and what lubricant to be used with hardware)?
thanks for your time,
Pat Mannion
Santa Cruz CA
_______________________________________________
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jul  7 08:49:42 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 10:49:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

So I took the bait and ordered a Denso racing alternator from DB 
Electrical. Nice unit. Mounting it was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 
being impossible. Easy, peasey.

So, here's my question: the alternator is supposed to be 
"self-exciting". Once you get to 3000 rpm, the thing should turn on. I was 
expecting to see the system voltage jump up a bit to 13-ish when the 
alternator turned on, but that is not the case. I get ROCK STEADY 12.06 
volts from when I start the car 'till I shut it off.

Can anyone else whoe's done the conversion comment on the operation of 
this setup?

Maybe I should be looking to use one of the other spade lugs on 
the alternator to get the thing to turn on?

Alternately confused,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu Jul  7 10:00:56 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 12:00:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <54E4E7C8161C4FB4AC18E280E2E09E23@gdhs.local>

Robert:   I have the same unit and it pumps out 14 from the moment I start
the car......this said, it is a race car and the output simply goes straight
to the hot side of the cut-off switch......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
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(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
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addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 10:50 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator


Hi,

So I took the bait and ordered a Denso racing alternator from DB
Electrical. Nice unit. Mounting it was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10
being impossible. Easy, peasey.

So, here's my question: the alternator is supposed to be
"self-exciting". Once you get to 3000 rpm, the thing should turn on. I was
expecting to see the system voltage jump up a bit to 13-ish when the
alternator turned on, but that is not the case. I get ROCK STEADY 12.06
volts from when I start the car 'till I shut it off.

Can anyone else whoe's done the conversion comment on the operation of
this setup?

Maybe I should be looking to use one of the other spade lugs on
the alternator to get the thing to turn on?

Alternately confused,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jul  7 12:06:01 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:06:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one I 
have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a big lug 
on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO spade lugs on 
the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in lamp connections - not 
sure on that.

But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and worst 
case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  7 13:43:21 2011
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:43:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>,
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w16DC3C0765BB1EB81C4F54B9410@phx.gbl>

Robert-

I just hooked up a 3 wire denso alternator on my 3A engine - you hook one
terminal to a switched power source, the other hooked into the ignition light.
Here's a good website link showing the hookup:
http://westfield-world.com/daihatsu_alternator.html

Randy



> Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:06:01 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: sjanzen at me.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
>
> Hi,
>
> The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one I
> have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a big lug
> on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO spade lugs on
> the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in lamp connections - not
> sure on that.
>
> But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and worst
> case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.
>
> regards,
> rml


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu Jul  7 17:40:19 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 17:40:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Is anybody else getting this ? Mailing list removal
 confirmation notice for mailing list Fot
Message-ID: <20110707234335.C63EE187652@autox.team.net>

Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list Fot

 

We have received a request from 71.39.52.61 for the removal of your email
address, "toodamnfunky at comcast.net" from the fot at autox.team.net mailing
list.  To confirm that you want to be removed from this mailing list, simply
reply to this message, keeping the Subject:

header intact.  Or visit this web page:

 

I have received this notification twice but did not request it.

Is anyone else getting this ?

 

Jim Gray


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Thu Jul  7 18:44:23 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 20:44:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Flag Deadline is Approaching!
Message-ID: <F969B68B-8AA5-46F4-BA91-D8BBBA4496C9@aol.com>

Amici,

Order your flag Soon!  


Details
2x3foot size
Logo is about 16 inches high
2 grommets
Indoor outdoor use
Material is great quality
I have a proof picture if your interested in seeing it.

I made the decision to go single sided. This means the words will be
reversed on the back.

Price is $15 each. Shipping is included.

Deadline to order is august 8, 2011.  I will place the order then and they
should be sent out to you by mid September.

Payments to paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or check to
Chris Bock
3630 Italia Ave
Vineland, NJ
08361

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul  7 20:32:18 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2011 21:32:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <20110708023242.A83A9187652@autox.team.net>

If it's like the GM alternator with two spade lugs showing, one of 
them needs to be connected to hot in order to turn it into a "one 
wire" alternator.

- Tony

At 01:06 PM 7/7/2011, Robert M. Lang wrote:
>Hi,
>
>The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one 
>I have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a 
>big lug on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO 
>spade lugs on the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in 
>lamp connections - not sure on that.
>
>But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and 
>worst case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.
>
>regards,
>rml
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 11:07:22 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 17:07:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Source  for TR4 crank plugs
Message-ID: <1519738514.294695.1310144842294.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Does anyone know where to buy TR4 crank plugs ? 

Thanks 



jimg 


From barry at penybryn.ca  Fri Jul  8 12:42:05 2011
From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 12:42:05 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
Message-ID: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash. 

This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
that I would seek additional expert advice.

So my question to the group is:

Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
the problem?

 

Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
question was put directly to them.

 

As always thanks for any help/advice provided.

 

Barry. 


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 13:49:00 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:49:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <1248003924.300545.1310154540223.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Fred Hodgeson installed mine and he didn't mention any problems.

I have the IRS diff. though with the 4.11 gears.



jimB  g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2011 12:42:05 PM
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation B B B B B B B B Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.

This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
that I would seek additional expert advice.

So my question to the group is:

Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
the problem?

B 

Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
question was put directly to them.

B 

As always thanks for any help/advice provided.

B 

Barry.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Jul  8 15:46:40 2011
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 16:46:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul  8 16:06:21 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 00:06:21 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
References: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <000e01cc3dbb$47687af0$d63970d0$@com>

response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

Total rubbish! 
Would never fit with a 3.7 gear set.

Wrong made item, return it I would suggest or machine the diff housing.

Cheers
Chris


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 16:42:17 2011
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2011 18:42:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
References: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <4E1787C9.5090904@cfl.rr.com>

On 7/8/11 2:42 PM, Barry Munson wrote:
> Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
> gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
> conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
> simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
> the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
> to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.
>
> This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
> times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
> Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
> tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
> received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
> 3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
> face."
>
> While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
> that I would seek additional expert advice.
My Quaife with new 4:11 gears and bearings fits the TR3 Southwick 
convers just fine. You must have something else going on.

Bon
> So my question to the group is:
>
> Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
> set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
> conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
> the problem?
>
>
>
> Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
> you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
> question was put directly to them.
>
>
>
> As always thanks for any help/advice provided.
>
>
>
> Barry.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 17:03:33 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:03:33 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <24c70.2dab9532.3b48e6c5@aol.com>

Call Joe Siam at Chequred Flag racing to get the Harland Sharps.   Don't 
waste a penny on anything else especially the Titans from the UK.   When I 
damaged one they had ZERO interest in helping me and the US rep had to  jump 
thru extraordianry hoops to get one.  Kudoes to him but those  manufacturers 
are welcome to keep their junk.  I'd go on about the sloppy  oiling but I'm 
told they've fixed that.
 
Steve
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 4:00:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
riverside at southslope.net writes:

Who  sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de  armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 17:04:07 2011
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:04:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>

Contact Richard Good in PA. Top Shelf stuff! His parts look like art work.
They have two different ratios; 1.55:1 and 1.65:1. If you already have a hot
cam you may want to go with the 1.55 option. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:47 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From chasgee at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 18:04:08 2011
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 20:04:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
his products.

Chuck Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
art de armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Jul  8 19:11:56 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 21:11:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <224d6945-0f7e-4dcc-898d-341686083f68@blur>

Or, contact us. Better design rockers and lower cost. Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Spitfire Racing <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
To: riverside at southslope.net, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 23:04:07 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Contact Richard Good in PA. Top Shelf stuff! His parts look like art work.
They have two different ratios; 1.55:1 and 1.65:1. If you already have a hot
cam you may want to go with the 1.55 option. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:47 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 20:05:49 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 22:05:49 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>

When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU  
manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care about  
"the lesser" Triumphs.
 
I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but  
to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chasgee at aol.com writes:

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands  
behind
his products.

Chuck  Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
art de  armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
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From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri Jul  8 23:16:17 2011
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 23:16:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Quaife issues..?
Message-ID: <BLU151-ds201A1E193867FB71F1182FB7430@phx.gbl>

Fred Hodgson may have forgotten some ring gear bolt issues?
I'll let him speak for hid 'Great-Self'..!  Quaife aint the Saints you might
think... is all I'm sayin' mate !

#6 GT-6
RMVR


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Jul  9 03:26:35 2011
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 19:26:35 +1000
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b3g2yzyAMq3q1J0x1tuLpAoa7Rdk6pkn+5Tvew8emeN+w@mail.gmail.com>

if have fitted 3.45 , 3.7, 4.1 & 4.5 ring & pinions to stock hemispheres
over the years and I dont ever recall this problem.

I cant see why the Quaiffe hemisphere would only suit one ratio as the ring
gear thickness changes to compensate for various ratios.

as far as i know,  the factory used the same hemisphere on the various
ratios. the only commonly found problem is the width of the cental pin in
plate type LSD's like Salisbury. These seem to have been made for the live
axle cars, so when fitted to a IRS, the stub axles have to be shortened.

i also suggest you have bought a dud
Terry


From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Jul  9 05:00:21 2011
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 07:00:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cc3e27$65ef4cd0$31cde670$@rr.com>

Well, I doubt he told you in that manner, but do keep in mind there are
tooling costs which are pretty high on any new product. If there's no market
for a considerable number of pieces it makes no sense from a business
standpoint regardless of the small handful who are disappointed. Actually
his manifolds were designed for triple Zenith-Stromburgs and not SUs. It's
only due to a few folks mounting up SUs on applications in TR-250/TR-6
successfully the perception came about they were "designed" for SUs. Realize
the dimensional differences between the two carbs. Space is tight in a GT-6
which is why the manifolds must drop. If there's clearance for a Stromburg,
there may not be for an SU setup with its higher domes. 
In the past I have had him make some custom pushrods for us and he did a
perfect job and quickly too. I have worked on a number of cars that have his
products in them and to the best of my awareness, there have been no
failures or complaints. He's not running a hobby, it's a business with high
levels of customer satisfaction and customer service. I might also add he
competes in a Triumph also.

Russ Moore 
Spitfire #49
Twin Pine Restoration

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Gt6steve at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:06 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com; chasgee at aol.com
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU  
manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care
about  
"the lesser" Triumphs.
 
I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but  
to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chasgee at aol.com writes:

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands  
behind
his products.

Chuck  Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
art de  armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 06:12:41 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 08:12:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>

 ART,

you may want to discuss what the engine will be expected to do.

and what the customer expects.

Harland-Sharp is a high volume producer of attractive looking rockers.

GoodParts adds features and benefits to a purpose designed assembly.

APT in Riverside may be able to shed light on what they do for various states
of tune, as they are a builder of 'small block' engines, as well as a supplier
of parts.

I have no direct experience with roller rockers, but it seems like a good
topic of discussion for the FOT. I'd like to learn more.

I know that at least one FOT became convinced that his after market rocker had
some geometry problems and set them aside.  (USED ON TR3/4 ENGINES) However,
there is usually more to the story.

Good question, Art.










-----Original Message-----
From: chasgee <chasgee at aol.com>
To: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
his products.

Chuck Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
art de armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Jul  9 07:00:17 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:00:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GoodParts
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU160-w186B6658CD85C24D083400BA430@phx.gbl>

Wow, I've known Richard for a couple of decades and that would be TOTALLY out
of character for him, but I was not there. Richard started his business
specializing in the TR6 line and that is probably what he was still tooled up
for back then. He is doing some other Triumph parts but they are not listed on
his website so it would not hurt to call.  I concur with Chuck, his quality is
top notch.  My only problem with Richard is he always beats me autoxing :)
Marty
 > From: Gt6steve at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 22:05:49 -0400
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com; chasgee at aol.com
> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care
about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul  9 07:04:17 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:04:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E683E02CF1E94372B201130A62D94F85@userb38463fba5>

Steve and others. This is not the Richard Good that I know. You've gone a 
bit far in your condemnation of one of the really good (no pun intended) 
guys in our hobby. I've had personal experience with Richard as he developed 
a part for a TR4A. He's humble and unassuming and goes about his business in 
a very professional way. Yes he limited his products to the IRS cars and 
specifically the TR6's for the most part. Developing a cast manifold for the 
GT6 would be an expensive development that a small business has a hard time 
funding with no knowledge of potential sales. Perhaps if you'd fund the 
effort he would apply his excellent engineering skills to the development. 
Would you be willing to make that investment? If no then don't criticize him 
for the same conclusion.

I doubt very much that he would ever tell someone to F off as you stated. 
There must be more to this story.

By the way I really like GT6's especially when race prepared. I remember the 
Group 44 Glory Days seeing and hearing their GT6's at Mid-Ohio and Watkins 
Glen. There is a special sound of a 6 cylinder Triumph at full song.

JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: <Gt6steve at aol.com>; <chasgee at aol.com>
Cc: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care 
> about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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> nsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Jul  9 09:20:12 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 11:20:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E1871AC.4010603@bright.net>

Joe & List.  We sell only Harland Sharp and have for 20 years. Good 
product, tons of experience (they were the first ones to develop a 
roller rocker for small block Chev circa 1960) and great tech support. 
Rockers have a feature that oils both the rocker tip and the push rod 
cup. We supply these with bronze rocker shaft  bushings.  You will see 
roller rockers advertised with needle bearings for the rocker shaft.  
There are some issues with needle bearings.  #1- oil has a tendency to 
"fall out"of the needle bearings due to needle bearing design. This is 
fine if you are pulling rocker assembly for inspection regularly (as in 
every week-end). #2 - since the rocker arm rotates only a small distance 
around the rocker shaft, and needle bearings are very hard by design, 
this create the potential for severe shaft wear. Needle bearings are 
great for supporting a spinning shaft, such as internal gear box parts, 
but they ride in lubrication all the time and they are supporting the 
entire shaft, not just a small area of the shaft.  If you have an engine 
that lives at high revs, good size rocker shaft diameter, excellent 
oiling and checked often (smallblock Chevy sprint car engines, NASCAR, 
etc) needle bearings will work (but so does their budget for tear down 
and rebuild). Extremely high ratio rockers unless coupled with very low 
rate valve springs are death on the valve train  Ted


On 7/9/2011 8:12 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>   ART,
>
> you may want to discuss what the engine will be expected to do.
>
> and what the customer expects.
>
> Harland-Sharp is a high volume producer of attractive looking rockers.
>
> GoodParts adds features and benefits to a purpose designed assembly.
>
> APT in Riverside may be able to shed light on what they do for various states
> of tune, as they are a builder of 'small block' engines, as well as a supplier
> of parts.
>
> I have no direct experience with roller rockers, but it seems like a good
> topic of discussion for the FOT. I'd like to learn more.
>
> I know that at least one FOT became convinced that his after market rocker had
> some geometry problems and set them aside.  (USED ON TR3/4 ENGINES) However,
> there is usually more to the story.
>
> Good question, Art.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: chasgee<chasgee at aol.com>
> To: riverside<riverside at southslope.net>; fot<fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside<riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
> art de armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 13:05:59 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 15:05:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] HARLAND SHARP   1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0C754F8F4AFA-10A8-12963@webmail-d013.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC><8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com><8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
	<4E1871AC.4010603@bright.net>
	<8CE0C754F8F4AFA-10A8-12963@webmail-d013.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0C825F213511-1198-16ED6@webmail-d049.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: tedtsimx <tedtsimx at bright.net>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


----Original Message-----



 WHAT TED SAID.   SEE BELOW MY NOTE.......................
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------

It would seem that Harland Sharp and a hardened rocker arm shaft would likely
satisfy most applications while being cost effective, as Ted says.

Harland Sharp has a comprehensive website....it also lists most of your
favorite distributors and most of the distributors have pricing so you can go
shopping on price.

I cant speak to geometry.

One FOT is very satisfied with his Harland Sharp and hardened shaft.... and
looked closely at the geometry. This is on a TR6.

Another FOT seemed concerned about the geometry for the TR3/TR4 from HS. He
was a mechanical engineer, but  it is only hearsay in either case.

Somebody else out there may have studied this in depth and has come to a
factual conclusion.

I'd be interested in more information. I have a set of Harland Sharps on the
shelf I have never used. Might be cool on the AMBRO or on my street TR3A.

ANYONE?

Joe A/



From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 11:48 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Joe & List.  We sell only Harland Sharp and have for 20 years. Good
product, tons of experience (they were the first ones to develop a
roller rocker for small block Chev circa 1960) and great tech support.
Rockers have a feature that oils both the rocker tip and the push rod
cup. We supply these with bronze rocker shaft  bushings.  You will see
roller rockers advertised with needle bearings for the rocker shaft.
There are some issues with needle bearings.  #1- oil has a tendency to
"fall out"of the needle bearings due to needle bearing design. This is
fine if you are pulling rocker assembly for inspection regularly (as in
every week-end). #2 - since the rocker arm rotates only a small distance
around the rocker shaft, and needle bearings are very hard by design,
this create the potential for severe shaft wear. Needle bearings are
great for supporting a spinning shaft, such as internal gear box parts,
but they ride in lubrication all the time and they are supporting the
entire shaft, not just a small area of the shaft.  If you have an engine
that lives at high revs, good size rocker shaft diameter, excellent
oiling and checked often (smallblock Chevy sprint car engines, NASCAR,
etc) needle bearings will work (but so does their budget for tear down
and rebuild). Extremely high ratio rockers unless coupled with very low
rate valve springs are death on the valve train  Ted


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 10 10:19:18 2011
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 09:19:18 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Not Triumph Related: Here's an interesting U-joint type
 mechanical device from down under
References: <33FDF17C-DD84-45F3-BB8F-323F2458B08E@stevebelfer.com>
Message-ID: <94B1BA0D-3A56-42B6-9645-6E78AD4EBDA5@earthlink.net>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgQgm3GwaFs



~Steve


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sun Jul 10 20:37:23 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 22:37:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Quaife and 4.1 Installation     Issues TR3
Message-ID: <5aca8.1f91c8d1.3b4bbbe3@aol.com>

The only problem that I had with 2 Quaifes that I did for other  people was 
that the factory Hand Press collets could not get behind the  side brgs. to 
remove them.
Is the pinion Depth correct?
Who made the 4.1 R & P ?
Quaife problem as mentioned by others?
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 8:02:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation  Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly  from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for  installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what  should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be  one royal PITA. Simply put 
with
the pinion installed with the correct  preload, even with all the shims 
moved
to one side of the carrier there is  no way to get any backlash. 

This has been driving my installer crazy  as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage  heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock  cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails  requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that  our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to  Machine the crown wheel
face."

<snip>

Barry.  


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 10 21:59:35 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 20:59:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Message-ID: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.
 
Mike Mehl #46
 
The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).
 
Thanks!!!!!!!


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 11 07:00:10 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:00:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
In-Reply-To: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0DE199BA70B9-818-36794@webmail-m173.sysops.aol.com>

 we have original axle   #1 prototype.

never a problem with oil leaking or bearings.

let us know what you find out.

congratulations on three races with no major failures.

TR4 #197 is going well and we are looking forward to second race on this
engine.

Joe A.








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2011 11:42 pm
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)


My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.

Mike Mehl #46

The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).

Thanks!!!!!!!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 11 07:31:06 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:31:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers (fwd)
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107110929210.4826@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I spaced and sent this to a list member when I meant to send to the whil 
list. The question came up about "which issue of CMS", I I forget, but 
most likely a late 2010 or early 2011 edition.

l8r,
rml

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:58:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert M. Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Hi,

I might also point out that Classic Motorsports ran a great article on the 
various aspects of roller rockers. Lots of details and some dyno pulls to back 
up the conclusions. Def. worth the read.

I have them on my TR6 autocrosser (1.5:1) and the geometry seems to be correct 
and I have no odd issues.  I just took my time and measured / observed 
everything and I've had no issues. FWIW, I'm running a Isky Z19 cam with 
.410-ish lift.

Failure points in my past have been broken rockers (stock) and broken pedestals 
(stock). But the tubular pushrods and pedestals from Goodparts are ROCK SOLID 
and the H/S roller rockers (from Ted) work perfectly even after some wierd 
"cock-ups" on my part - like the time I left the adjuster screw loose and the 
pushrod popped out. That mishap dinged the rocker, but no craks or drama. I 
didn't even mess a session.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon Jul 11 07:53:28 2011
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 13:53:28 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Message-ID: <20110711.095328.7393.1@webmail07.dca.untd.com>

Mike, there is an O-ring on the outer periphery of the bearing. The O-ring may
be cut and leaking or missing?  These are also sealed bearings.  You may have
had a seal failure, in which case you would need to replace the bearing.  This
is Moser part number 9507F.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 20:59:35 -0700 (PDT)

My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.

Mike Mehl #46

The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).

Thanks!!!!!!!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net


____________________________________________________________
57 Year Old Mom Looks 27!
Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4e1b008f1c4293397cdst06duc


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 11 08:05:00 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 10:05:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107110951490.4826@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I had some time to play with my alternator setup this weekend. Turns out 
that I have two lines coming from the dash, one is ignition, the other - 
I'M NOT SURE WHAT IT IS/WAS. In any case, with the proper wire on the 
alternator, I get 13.9-ish volts everywhere! YAEAH!

I need to trace the wires now, but I have a sinking feeling that my 
low-ish output from my Lucas ACR17 was a wiring problem and not an 
alternator problem. No worries, though - the new alternator weighs a 
couple pounds less and I can probably scrounge up a replacement at a NAPA 
if the thing ever dies unexpectedly.

In any case, I've moved this upgrade to "VERY WORTHWHILE" status.

DB Electrical - Chevy mini-alternator (40 amp output). Less than $80 to 
your house for a NEW alternator that works. Cheaper than a rebuild!

Gee, if I install the aluminum radiator and a braille battery in the next 
week or so, I might get my car closer to my class min weight for the 
SCCA Solo NEDivs... that'd be pretty kewl.

l8r,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Jul 11 08:56:50 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:56:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
In-Reply-To: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110711145708.AD3EC18765A@autox.team.net>

You may have a defective sealed bearing.  Should be a standard part 
for a Ford 8" rear axle.

Tony

At 10:59 PM 7/10/2011, Mike Mehl wrote:
>My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
>through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
>anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.
>
>Mike Mehl #46
>
>The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
>(not spun bearings).
>
>Thanks!!!!!!!


From goodparts at verizon.net  Mon Jul 11 09:08:04 2011
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 11:08:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <97DACC3BE98D4FC596F995314182AA47@AdminPC>

Steve,

I am very sorry that I offended you.  I do not recall the conversation but 
assume you were inquiring about a manifold for MK1 GT6 because I have been 
making triple manifolds for the later GT6's since 1996.

I started the business in 1993 while still holding a full time day job.  In 
2001 I took on a more demanding day job and with the side business growing 
rapidly, I was working many late nights and Saturdays to keep up with 
orders.  So in 2002 I was not in a position to take on any new development 
projects.  No prejudice against the smaller Triumphs.  Just no time to 
invest in the project.  My day job ended in mid 2009 and I have been in the 
parts business full time since then.  It is still growing and keeping me 
very busy.  I get lots of suggestions for new products but time for 
development is still limited and must be focused on projects with the most 
potential.

Regards,
Richard Good
Good Parts Inc.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: <Gt6steve at aol.com>; <chasgee at aol.com>
Cc: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care 
> about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________


From goodparts at verizon.net  Mon Jul 11 13:38:55 2011
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 15:38:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>

Needle bearings are widely used and well proven in rockers.  I did a search 
some time ago and all the roller rocker manufacturers I could find were 
using needle bearings at the shaft and the better ones had needle bearings 
in the roller also.  Harland Sharp's web site lists roller rockers for a 
whole host of applications and from what I could find all, except those for 
use MG and Triumph, have needle bearings at the shaft.  I could not 
determine if they had needle bearings in the roller or not.  I assume they 
had to use bronze bushings in the MG and Triumph rockers because they do not 
make a shaft for those applications.  A good hard shaft of correct design is 
required for needle bearings.  Do not try to run them on a replacement 
original shaft, even if it has been nitrided.  It will not hold up.  The 
right needle bearing riding on the right shaft will run much longer than any 
bronze bushing.

I designed and started production of roller rockers for the Triumph six 
cylinder and small four cylinders in 1993 and a few years later for the big 
four cylinder.  Since then I have sold over 650 sets and all have had needle 
bearings at the shaft.  Since 1996 all have had needle bearings in the 
roller.  They are holding up just fine.  My design has oil channels feeding 
to the roller and the push rod cup and control of oil spill from the ends of 
the needle bearings.

Regards,
Richard Good
Good Parts Inc.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <riverside at southslope.net>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:46 PM
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
>
> art de armond


From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Jul 11 14:33:57 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 20:33:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
In-Reply-To: <51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>,
	<51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W22967E509A39F629E7BEFEDF450@phx.gbl>

As usual, you research things, then quietly build great parts. I am booster of
yours, as you know.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: goodparts at verizon.net
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 15:38:55 -0400
> Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
>
> Needle bearings are widely used and well proven in rockers.  I did a search
> some time ago and all the roller rocker manufacturers I could find were
> using needle bearings at the shaft and the better ones had needle bearings
> in the roller also.  Harland Sharp's web site lists roller rockers for a
> whole host of applications and from what I could find all, except those for
> use MG and Triumph, have needle bearings at the shaft.  I could not
> determine if they had needle bearings in the roller or not.  I assume they
> had to use bronze bushings in the MG and Triumph rockers because they do not
> make a shaft for those applications.  A good hard shaft of correct design is
> required for needle bearings.  Do not try to run them on a replacement
> original shaft, even if it has been nitrided.  It will not hold up.  The
> right needle bearing riding on the right shaft will run much longer than any
> bronze bushing.
>
> I designed and started production of roller rockers for the Triumph six
> cylinder and small four cylinders in 1993 and a few years later for the big
> four cylinder.  Since then I have sold over 650 sets and all have had needle
> bearings at the shaft.  Since 1996 all have had needle bearings in the
> roller.  They are holding up just fine.  My design has oil channels feeding
> to the roller and the push rod cup and control of oil spill from the ends of
> the needle bearings.
>
> Regards,
> Richard Good
> Good Parts Inc.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:46 PM
> Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> > Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
> >
> > art de armond
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Mon Jul 11 16:12:19 2011
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 16:12:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] FW: TR-8 (for Sale)
In-Reply-To: <1309993586.72647.YahooMailRC@web59610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1309993586.72647.YahooMailRC@web59610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w419607C419038E1C3F467E90450@phx.gbl>

Hello group, this TR8 will come up for sale here in Albuquerque and I can't or
rather shouldn't but still want to buy it.  If there is anyone interested in
the car contact me or Jake directly, we have no financial interest in it yet.
Cheers Henry Morrison, 505-259-1537.



Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 16:06:26 -0700
From: kekjacobsen at yahoo.com
Subject: TR-8
To: dos_gusanos at msn.com






Henry,
Not sure why, but our dumb email didn't pick up your address last time we
chatted. Anyhow, It's a 1980 TR-8 with 5000 original miles that's been in
storage for "a long time" but indoors so no rust. Will likely need a soft
restoration. He has no idea what he wants for it, but I'm assuming he's fairly
motivated as his wife has suddenly asked for a divorce...ouch!

Have a good one!
Thanks,
Jake


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Mon Jul 11 22:41:24 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 21:41:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Source  for TR4 crank plugs
References: <1519738514.294695.1310144842294.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7480354160714DAAB91F71875AAD7EC5@your89d26e0447>

they are standard 1/4" pipe plugs with an allen hex drive. we have them in 
stock.
                                                                             
                                    Greg Solow
                                                                             
                                    831 4291800 


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 12 04:56:46 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 06:56:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
BeaveRun:
Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's kinda
like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same time!)
You'll do fine Marty.
Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
Me in my 70 TR6.
I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
are a good bunch.
See you there.
Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
farm)


From rikrock at live.com  Tue Jul 12 05:48:44 2011
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 07:48:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>

That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.

Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump thanks
to this list)

No Scott Janzen?

Rich Rock

-----Original Message-----
From: william r tobin
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun

Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
BeaveRun:
Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
kinda
like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
time!)
You'll do fine Marty.
Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
Me in my 70 TR6.
I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
are a good bunch.
See you there.
Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
farm)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock at live.com


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Tue Jul 12 05:52:36 2011
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 07:52:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
Message-ID: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>

I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what  
size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in  
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to  
the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but  
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8  
gallon cell.  Don

--


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Jul 12 06:29:28 2011
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott janzen)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:29:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
References: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1B3A4A71-7822-4DE0-88DF-210C308687FF@me.com>

Yep GT6 is on the list, if my day job work gets done!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.
> 
> Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump thanks
> to this list)
> 
> No Scott Janzen?
> 
> Rich Rock
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: william r tobin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
> 
> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
> kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
> time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
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> _______________________________________________
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> http://www.fot-racing.com
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 12 06:34:39 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:34:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
References: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3E7B6847B8BB48B19FB85AF3B72FDC83@owner8914bbf7f>

Oops, sorry, Scott will be there.
A thousand pardons Scott. I somehow missed his your name! Hope to see your 
GT6 Friday.
Thanks Rich, for the reminder.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich Rock" <rikrock at live.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] BeaveRun


> That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.
>
> Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump 
> thanks
> to this list)
>
> No Scott Janzen?
>
> Rich Rock
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: william r tobin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
>
> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP 
> at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
> kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
> time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from 
> him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG 
> guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock at live.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 12 13:07:40 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:07:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers (fwd)
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107121506470.12517@isis.mit.edu>

Gary Hunter reminds me:

  CMS  MARCH 2011  issue  149  page 77  ROLLER ROCKERS      Cheers  gary
Gary Hunter
Reader Services
Grassroots Motorsports / Classic Motorsports
gary at grassrootsmotorsports.com
386-239-0523


tnx, Gary.

Love the mag.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 14:43:58 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (norlinengineering at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 13:43:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
Message-ID: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>

I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8  
inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I figure  
one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than  
that.l

Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size

I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what  
size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in  
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to  
the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but  
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8  
gallon cell.  Don

--
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Tue Jul 12 14:57:47 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 16:57:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <897BAE68-A8EE-406B-94BF-BF1124733321@aol.com>

I will be there but not racing. I will be crewing for any triumph that needs
me.  Mainly I will be crewing for a MGA, Formula Vee, and a bug eye.

I will have some grill badges and will be taking orders for flags.  Cash,
check, and hopefully Credit cards.


See ya'll there

Chris

PS  where is the grotto?


On Jul 12, 2011, at 6:56 AM, william r tobin wrote:

> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP
at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>
>

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322


From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 15:25:44 2011
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (Steven Groh)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:25:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
	<a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <9D5D7781-BB01-43CC-9F13-38367CFE97DD@comcast.net>

8 gallon has worked for me on all tracks in the NE

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2011, at 2:43 PM,
"norlinengineering at comcast.net"<norlinengineering at comcast.net> wrote:

> I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8
> inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I figure
> one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than
> that.l
>
> Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
> To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
>
> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sgroh1 at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 15:58:07 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 14:58:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
	<a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <504D2C3F237348E7A2848FB3EB74CFCC@Bud>

I use an 8 gallon cell in my Spitfire..
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: "Don Marshall" <donmarshall at nefcom.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size


> I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8
> inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I 
> figure
> one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than
> that.l
>
> Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
> To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
>
> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 21:16:16 2011
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 03:16:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <390964174.531052.1310526976378.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

8 gallons is just enough for my 1500 in a 45 min scca national race. 
Aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net
To: Don Marshall &lt;donmarshall at nefcom.net&gt;, fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 20:43:58 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire. I like it because it's 8 
inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake. I figure 
one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks. I never use more than 
that.l
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what 
size cells are most commonly used. Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in 
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to 
the paddock. It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but 
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8 
gallon cell. Don
--
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rocky at spitfire4.com  Tue Jul 12 22:44:47 2011
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 23:44:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
Message-ID: <E352DFAEE8FF44C0950008957ABEFAE8@rocky>

Eight gallons here. ATL cell.

I usually never fill it to the 8-gallon mark -- people get all excited when 
the overflow vent actually overflows a little (Geez, people, it'll evaporate 
before you can get the kitty litter). Lately I go out with 5-6 gallons for a 
race and come in with 2-3 depending on race length.

BTW, I got mine with dual pickups, one duckfoot in each back corner,  and 
run them to dual fuel pumps (twin Holley reds, which tee into one fuel line 
going forward and choked down to 2.5 psi at the regulator). Even with less 
than a gallon, I have fuel to the carbs.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Marshall" <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:52 AM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size


> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com


From Catpusher at aol.com  Wed Jul 13 12:33:38 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 14:33:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Quaife and 4.1 Installation     Issues TR3
Message-ID: <493.1a72c4cd.3b4f3f02@aol.com>

Hi Barry,

Where did you find the 4.1 R & P?

The pinion head bearing (factory PN# 100897) was Timken cup 3120, but the
inner race was 3188-S.  The "S" denotes a modification from normal.   The OD
of the pinion shaft was a size that required a slightly oversize ID in  the
brg.  This is the most important brg. in a TR diff. setup.

TR Regards,

Hardy


In a message dated 7/11/2011 3:58:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
barry at penybryn.ca writes:


Hi Hardy b Thanks  for your input. Based on the content of all the
suggestions and advice that I  have received so far, two consistent facts have
surfaced. First there is no  way that Quaife would have manufactured a case
that
only fit one ratio and the  second was to check the pinion depth. At the
time I ordered the pinion  bearings I could not source the original Timken
ones
and had to settle for  aftermarket bexactb replicas (probably Chinese as
there are no markings other  than a number). While the numbers and dimensions
appear to be the same as the  stock ones, the large bearing is definitely
different in construction and sits  higher in the cup. The correct
replacement bearings arrived today so webll  see.
Thanks  again.
Barry.



From:  Catpusher at aol.com [mailto:Catpusher at aol.com]
Sent: July-10-11 8:37  PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc:  barry at penybryn.ca
Subject: Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1  Installation Issues TR3


The  only problem that I had with 2 Quaifes that I did for other people was
 that the factory Hand Press collets could not get behind the side brgs. to
 remove them.

Is  the pinion Depth correct?

Who  made the 4.1 R & P ?

Quaife  problem as mentioned by others?



Hardy




In a  message dated 7/8/2011 8:02:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation  Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife  directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new  bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential  housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation  process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put
with
the pinion  installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims
moved
to one  side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.

This has  been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all  the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage  is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line  twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the  following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio  directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown  wheel
face."

<snip>

Barry.


From igofaster at att.net  Thu Jul 14 19:55:04 2011
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 18:55:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
Message-ID: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Looking for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...

Bobby Whitehead


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Thu Jul 14 20:17:26 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 22:17:26 EDT
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
Message-ID: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>

Dime a dozen.  Go to Hyperco or Eibach and make your pick.  Cheap  and 
plentiful in any rate you desire.  Hell, I think I have some 650's I'll  give 
ya....
 
 
In a message dated 7/14/2011 7:13:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
igofaster at att.net writes:

Looking  for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...

Bobby  Whitehead
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
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From gasket.works at gte.net  Fri Jul 15 21:43:46 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 03:43:46 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Tr6/gt6 Crankshaft
Message-ID: <1711856035-1310787828-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-372154456-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

All;

If interested in a custom billet tr6 / gt6 crankshaft with full counter balancing, dummy (false main) with  either open rod journals or solid cross drilled journals. Please let me know.  I will try to get a photo of the cnc cad mock up drawing on the fot site for eval.  Cost is about $2400.oo +fob.  Shipping from UK.  You spec out rod and main size, short or long BUTT and flywheel holes.  The material is certified  EN40B steel.  

 I have three takers now.  Moldex charges double that.  Price will drop @ 5 orders. 

Let me know off line.

NFI (except saving $)

Mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Jul 16 07:39:29 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:39:29 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 / gt6 crank
Message-ID: <650815302-1310823569-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-943340943-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

http://www.fot-racing.com/tr6crank.htm

For those interested here is a CAD mock up of two crankshft designs.  From they weigh perhaps 27kg or so.  The open rod journals design may have a bit less weight ..may spin faster.  I suspect this thread could grow regarding which design is better for vintage racing....

M


Contact 

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul 16 11:21:35 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 11:21:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
Message-ID: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>

Fot

I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.

I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on that
subject.

It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
between the valves and toward the 

intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.

Any comments ?

 

Thanks,

jim g


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Jul 16 20:10:42 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 21:10:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
References: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>

NGK BP-7-HS, 0.030".

Tony Drews
TR-4 #95

At 12:21 PM 7/16/2011, Jim Gray wrote:
>Fot
>
>I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
>
>I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on that
>subject.
>
>It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
>between the valves and toward the
>
>intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
>
>Any comments ?
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>jim g


From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jul 16 20:46:06 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 20:46:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>
References: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
	<20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4E224CEE.4070903@bradakis.com>

 > I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.

I usually use NGK or Autolite.  Gapped at 025 for points cars, 35 for ones
with any sort of electronic ignition like Pertronix.

mjb.


From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sat Jul 16 21:24:58 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:24:58 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
Message-ID: <501d.3471e6cc.3b53b00a@aol.com>

ISTR that the plug is indexed to the intake valve to cool the plug with the 
 incoming a/f charge.  As for spark plugs, I don't know what the racers are 
 using.  I use NGK BP6ES in by street TR6/GT6.  HTH.
 
Sam Clark
 
 
Fot

I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and  favorite gaps.

I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions  seem to vary on that
subject.

It's been said that it's best to index  the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
between the valves and toward the  

intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.

Any comments  ?



Thanks,

jim  g


From cartravel at pobox.com  Sun Jul 17 09:22:46 2011
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 10:22:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>
References: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>
Message-ID: <4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>

Oops, I fogot to send my original reply to the list.  Several 1% 
improvements could add up.  In my limited experience with dynos (mostly 
low horespower motors), it seems like multiple pulls will frequently 
show a 1% difference.  Other opinions?

On 7/16/2011 10:30 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> Larry,
> We have some local Ford GT350 racers/tuners that see 1.2% gain on the dyno
> on a 470 HP motor when the plugs are indexed. The whole issue came up when
> discussing several small improvements that add up to time gained on-track.
> I'm still improving my driving skills but won't pass up an opportunity to
> improve the car wherever I can.
>
>
> jim g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Young [mailto:cartravel at pobox.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 5:38 PM
> To: Jim Gray
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
>
> I like NGK BP7HS for a hotted up TR3/4.  One notch colder than stock.
>
> Is the effect of indexing measurable on a dyno?  I wonder.  If it's not
> measurable, that would explain the variety of opinions.  It's so great
> to talk about differences that can't be measured.
>
>
> On 7/16/2011 12:21 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
>> Fot
>>
>> I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
>>
>> I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on
> that
>> subject.
>>
>> It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
>> between the valves and toward the
>>
>> intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
>>
>> Any comments ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> jim g
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Sun Jul 17 10:13:52 2011
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:13:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Part Number ID help!!!
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey Members,

I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??

Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
the part

Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
Gear reduction starter    R-33037
Koni Shocks                 80-1005
Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
1.88"
Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
starter on passenger side
Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
56
Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
27B6, 0589
Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
insert, 50-522
Pistons                         17753B
Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
is 6.0"
Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???

Thanks so much for any help you an provide.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Jul 17 10:30:55 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:30:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>
References: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>,
	<4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W27589C30CDD4EF10577EEEDF4B0@phx.gbl>

I have no experience with this method, but will say that the location of the
beginning of the flame front in the combustion chamber should have an effect.
I would think that shortening the time to the section prone to detonation
(the hot side, exhaust) would give a favorible result and allow a smidge more
ignition timing. I don't think that the small amount of direction change would
have much effect on the flow down over the plug from the inlet valve although
that is very important in heat range or extended nose type plugs. MY opinion.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 10:22:46 -0500
> From: cartravel at pobox.com
> To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec
motor
>
> Oops, I fogot to send my original reply to the list.  Several 1%
> improvements could add up.  In my limited experience with dynos (mostly
> low horespower motors), it seems like multiple pulls will frequently
> show a 1% difference.  Other opinions?
>
> On 7/16/2011 10:30 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> > Larry,
> > We have some local Ford GT350 racers/tuners that see 1.2% gain on the
dyno
> > on a 470 HP motor when the plugs are indexed. The whole issue came up
when
> > discussing several small improvements that add up to time gained
on-track.
> > I'm still improving my driving skills but won't pass up an opportunity to
> > improve the car wherever I can.
> >
> >
> > jim g
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Young [mailto:cartravel at pobox.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 5:38 PM
> > To: Jim Gray
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec
motor
> >
> > I like NGK BP7HS for a hotted up TR3/4.  One notch colder than stock.
> >
> > Is the effect of indexing measurable on a dyno?  I wonder.  If it's not
> > measurable, that would explain the variety of opinions.  It's so great
> > to talk about differences that can't be measured.
> >
> >
> > On 7/16/2011 12:21 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> >> Fot
> >>
> >> I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
> >>
> >> I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on
> > that
> >> subject.
> >>
> >> It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust
valve,
> >> between the valves and toward the
> >>
> >> intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
> >>
> >> Any comments ?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> jim g
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From cartravel at pobox.com  Sun Jul 17 11:15:35 2011
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 12:15:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Part Number ID help!!!
In-Reply-To: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Message-ID: <4E2318B7.9030108@pobox.com>

I don't believe that is a Triumph OD (at least not a big Triumph).  Is 
it an A type or J type?  I believe the A type overdrives were 22% ratio 
and the J-type overdrives used in the TR6 were 25/115838 and 25/1158976.

I have profiled several Crane cams and have a master catalog of their 
profiles.  That one is not amongst them.  244 is usually the duration at 
0.050.

On 7/17/2011 11:13 AM, Diesel Performance Parts - Info wrote:
> Hey Members,
>
> I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??
>
> Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
> the part
>
> Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
> Gear reduction starter    R-33037
> Koni Shocks                 80-1005
> Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
> Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
> be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
> Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
> new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
> 1.88"
> Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
> at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
> starter on passenger side
> Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
> has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
> Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
> are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
> Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
> dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
> Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
> no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
> Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
> Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
> 56
> Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
> 27B6, 0589
> Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
> Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
> insert, 50-522
> Pistons                         17753B
> Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
> is 6.0"
> Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
> Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???
>
> Thanks so much for any help you an provide.
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
>
> www.dieselperformanceparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Jul 17 11:40:19 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 13:40:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <D8A33728-406F-44A4-8DCD-7CEA36EFA71B@aol.com>

Amici
It is so nice to put faces to names and make friends.

I want to send a special thanks to Bill who helped Marty be able to run a full
session.

Over all there were a few orders placed for flags. I am sorry that I forgot to
bring some badges.

The FOT is truly a great bunch of people. I am glad I am part of it.

So who is going to glen on October?


From triosan at gmail.com  Sun Jul 17 12:00:32 2011
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:00:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
In-Reply-To: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNCWBGTYP2=OHWYY7n3ojnrNAXY31PAiE+FLDyK7yvFU3w@mail.gmail.com>

I bought hypercoilds for front [600 6" tsll] and rear [800 8"].  Had
e-Machine shop create spring perrchs as these springs are too narrow to sit
on ours.  Will be installing heem in a couple of weeks and will post some
pictures.  In switching computers I ended up loosing the drawing I did.  The
ones for the front each provide 3/4" height, so effective spring length is
now 7.5".  I can slip in varios thickness washers to allow for weight
jacking should I ever get that sophisticated.  Get it running, relearn to
drive are actions one and two when I retire in two weeks.

On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:55 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> Looking for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Jul 17 20:15:27 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:15:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and Craig Leinicke
Message-ID: <8F55E00C-4B60-45AB-987C-91106CB67C15@aol.com>

Your payments have been received. 

Thanks

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Sun Jul 17 20:43:18 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 19:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
Message-ID: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my rear
brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. 
Jim in Folsom, CA


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 17 23:04:07 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:04:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
In-Reply-To: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <032f01cc4508$1fcd39a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am 
> getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes

Find a quiet stretch of road and find out how fast you can stop.  Ideally
both front and rear should lock up at the same time.  But if the fronts lock
up first, and it only takes a little more pressure to lock up the rears,
that's OK.

To my way of thinking, this is reasonable periodic maintenance for old cars;
at least those driven on the street.  Good driver education, too. 

-- Randall  


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Mon Jul 18 01:00:31 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 00:00:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
In-Reply-To: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E23DA0F.8050407@comcast.net>

I'm assuming we're talking race car with a balance bar between two 
master cylinders.  When I used to work on Formula Fords we would lift 
the car off the ground and make an adjustable device that pushed on the 
brake pedal.  We would adjust that so that the brakes dragged 
significantly but didn't lock up.  Then, we would adjust the bias bar so 
that turning the front and rear wheels felt pretty much the same.  After 
that, it was up to the driver.  These cars have 4 wheel discs and about 
35% weight on the front and 65% on the rear so under braking with the 
forward weight transfer, they are about 50-50 and this technique works.

I tried doing the same thing with my Spitfire and found it moved the 
bias way too far to the back.  Because of the weight balance  and weight 
transfer under braking, this technique won't work on our cars.  One 
thing I noticed was I was wearing out rear brakes way faster than the 
fronts and having to adjust them a lot.  I've since moved the balance 
bar a lot farther to the front and balanced the wear front to rear.  I 
think watching wear patterns is a good check.

If you can find a straight test location, you want to get the fronts to 
lock up slightly before the rears.  On my Spitfire (with rear drums), I 
don't think it is possible to get the rears to lock up first.

Jim Norlin

On 7/17/2011 7:43 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my rear
> brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
> Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 05:14:01 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:14:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6EEB0A4939EA41C0B9BF9454167F8376@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi All, a couple things I did were to throw away the PDWA switch ( the 
pressure differential switch), and went to 7/8 inch diameter rear wheel 
cylinders as opposed to the stock 3/4 inch ones. They can be had from most 
of the TR specialty shops.That put more braking to the rear. I also just put 
on Richard Good's dual MC setup; nice setup. Still tinkering with the 
balance bar setup.
    Several of our suppliers offer higher performance rear linings. Talk to 
some of them about their recommendations.
    I'm assuming you're using braided lines instead of hoses?
    My brakes worked well over the weekend at BeaveRun. Seems all the 
Triumph guys had fun.
Cheers, Bill Tobin
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "sherry robyn" <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 10:43 PM
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together


> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my 
> rear
> brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be 
> appreciated.
> Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 05:39:33 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:39:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
Message-ID: <8D80DBD7426D4DF0A033B258D2DF0BB3@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi, this a follow up to my braking problems at Mid Ohio. What started out as a
leaking rear wheel cylinder (it had just been replaced) kind of snowballed. I
replaced cylinder and the rear linings at the track, but the drums didn't want
to fit on. I marked the ends of the shoes and filed off a small amount of
metal at the end contact points and got the drums on. They worked but not to
my liking.
When I got home, I arc-ground the linings with an AMMCO Safe Arc grinder that
I had bought at an auction for $10 years ago but never used. That helped a lot
to have the linings flat with the drums, which I had lightly turned just to
clean up. After everything was back together, the brakes worked much better.
    The manual says to "offer up" the shoes after the springs are put in the
holes. Usually during the offering up, the springs fall out, nasty words are
said, and you start again! I took some 1/4" wooden dowel pins and sanded a
taper in 4 of them. I put the spring ends in the holes in the shoe and tap a
dowel in the hole to keep the springs in place. Works great and makes the
offering up much easier and quicker.
    Dr Dave from TRF gave me a good tip on installing the wheel cylinder
locking plate; ignore the manual and install the middle locking plate from the
rear last. Saves a lot of grief.
    Thanks to all who replyed a couple weeks ago.
Cheers, Bill


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 18 07:21:11 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 09:21:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend
Message-ID: <BLU160-w1768708D99CD304B5183CABA4A0@phx.gbl>

I survived my first vintage race.  Found some mechanical issues on this shake
down event for me, addressed some, have some I still need to address. Worked
hard but had a blast.  Had the pleasure to meet some new Triumph folk.
Thanks are in order. First to those of you who put up with my annoying email
and phone call questions in the weeks leading up to the event as I tried to
get ready.  At the track, My son Jason who helped me with everything
throughout the weekend.  Bill Tobin for sharing his trailer and everything in
it, it was a godsend to be padocked next to him. Dale Oesterle for the many
suggestions he made. And last but not least, my hero Bill Rampe who I will
forever be indebted to for dragging out his spare radiator and letting me
install it in my car saturday night.  Bill, YOU DA MAN!  I was slow all
weekend but I ended up about 15 seconds faster at the end of the weekend than
I started on Friday so I guess I learned something.  I am sure there are
people I forgot and I apologize, the weekend was pretty much a blur.

See you soon.

Marty Sukey


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Jul 18 08:23:17 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:23:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover
Message-ID: <CAJ1+nOStm90+7ZQFSbTzNcm6==8vju33wdetFRomJdi1D5z8Yg@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone remember when the TR6 engine changed port sizes? Year or S/N?

Thanks,
Bob


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 08:43:06 2011
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:43:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
Message-ID: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>

Amici...

After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado 
Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler 
International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob 
Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While 
the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the 
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D 
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and we'll 
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with 
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car 
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE' 
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the 
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure what 
the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your 
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the 
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close 
tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the 
car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since 
coming to North America.

The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very 
light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race 
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car, 
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street 
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine 
events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers. 
 We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being 
retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.  
But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great 
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill Dentinger


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 09:17:52 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:17:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend
References: <BLU160-w1768708D99CD304B5183CABA4A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C20F326D5B1840A89E0F8F29D83CFA46@owner8914bbf7f>

Marty, you're quite welcome! It was great when you finished your first 
session; I know the big grin feeling!
Glad I could help.
"Gee Bill, why do you carry all that stuff with you?" "'Cause I might not 
need it but one of my pals might."
 It was nice meeting your family and hanging out with them.
Glad you had fun.
I had a *#@$%^& blast!
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 9:21 AM
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend


>I survived my first vintage race.  Found some mechanical issues on this 
>shake
> down event for me, addressed some, have some I still need to address. 
> Worked
> hard but had a blast.  Had the pleasure to meet some new Triumph folk.
> Thanks are in order. First to those of you who put up with my annoying 
> email
> and phone call questions in the weeks leading up to the event as I tried 
> to
> get ready.  At the track, My son Jason who helped me with everything
> throughout the weekend.  Bill Tobin for sharing his trailer and everything 
> in
> it, it was a godsend to be padocked next to him. Dale Oesterle for the 
> many
> suggestions he made. And last but not least, my hero Bill Rampe who I will
> forever be indebted to for dragging out his spare radiator and letting me
> install it in my car saturday night.  Bill, YOU DA MAN!  I was slow all
> weekend but I ended up about 15 seconds faster at the end of the weekend 
> than
> I started on Friday so I guess I learned something.  I am sure there are
> people I forgot and I apologize, the weekend was pretty much a blur.
>
> See you soon.
>
> Marty Sukey
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 18 09:22:02 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:22:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE13759408E06A-7CC-631B@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>

ya!  say it aint so!

like the end of an era

relieved to read that SWAN SONG was not equivalent to TOTALED.

BEST WISHES!

Joe A

BRITISH RACE CAR         ATTENTION!

Everyone might review the very comprehensive photo/journal on the TORNADO on
this website:

britishracecar.com        glad it got such a GREAT review before it's
retirement.

ALSO, Dennis Delap's TVR is featured in there.

More FOT TRIUMPH cars to be featured in the future........we deserve it, dont
you think?







-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>; TornadoRegistrar <TornadoRegistrar at aol.com>
Cc: CDHEXTALL <CDHEXTALL at aol.com>; wiallisons <wiallisons at hotmail.com>; office
<office at tidemaster.co.uk>
Sent: Mon, Jul 18, 2011 10:05 am
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...


Amici...

After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While
the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
we'll
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE'
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure
what
the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since
coming to North America.

The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111
race
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
 We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 09:53:20 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:53:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <D0611F5F04884EF8B0ED5EDFA6FB16A1@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi Gang, here's a recap of the PVGP event this past weekend.
David Miller did well in his quick red TR4; a couple seconds off the pace.
Dale Oesterle is always quick in his very yellow Spit.
The Ambro of Robert Stadel is a very nice car (I usually see it from behind);
he talked with my friend Janet and myself Sunday morning.
I'm not sure how Bill Rampe made out; I lost track in all the excitement. I
know he made Marty Sukey's weekend by loaning a radiator.
Marty had fun, learned a lot, and got some valuable experience.
I'm not sure who else was there, I only had sheets for group 4.
Me, I had a great weekend. The only thing I did all weekend, other than
checking pressures, lug nuts, and oil, was pull the drums a couple times and
blow the dust out. Other than that, the old 6 ran great. The engine is
starting to run well after some carb issues last year; pulls easily up to 6K
(or beyond). This was the 4th race ofter the rebuild.
The handling is getting better and the driver is always improving!
I ran with a Pinto, Bathtub Porsche, and MGB, and a 2002 all weekend. Beat
them all in the final race! YEEHAW! Especially the 356. I talked with the
driver after the race and he also had a good time and was very complimentary.
My old tractor engine had more grunt on the straights than his 4 cylinder. The
young BMW owner also came over after the race; he also had fun. That's the
name of the game.
After 3 or 4 years of being at the back, it's nice to be moving up! Marty,
you'll do the same; keep working on it!
Cheers, Bill


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Jul 18 10:14:53 2011
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:14:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYqqXJYmfEOzuWAkj5nTm+zfhKh8SoVLA9PZ4Zfbnga9Sw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm surprised you guys outlasted the car!
We always enjoyed seeing that beautiful car run around through the woods.
A good run while it lasted.
Props to you both, for the respect you and ALL your cars deserve for their
great preparation standards.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:43 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> Amici...
>
> After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
> Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
> International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
> Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).
>  While
> the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with
> the
> sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
> Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
> we'll
> take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
> the sports racers.
>
> Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
> Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight
> 'RESERVE'
> award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
> largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not
> sure what
> the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
> car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years,
> the
> Thunder Bolt has
> won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.
>
> Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
> tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
> car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events
> since
> coming to North America.
>
> The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
> light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111
> race
> events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
> detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
> car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.
>
> The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
> events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
>  We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
> retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
> But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
> run.  Very satisfying.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From jhouathome at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 10:19:42 2011
From: jhouathome at aol.com (jhouathome at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:19:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE137DA245010D-274C-582C@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com>

Bill,

I have so enjoyed the T-Bolt all these years.  Even though I lasted all of 2
laps yesterday befor the Kellison/Triumph gave up the ghost it was great to
take the pace lap behind Bob for this occasion.  All of us TR types have loved
that you two brought it out, and it will be missed.  I have also been very
impressed that your two have made a partnership with a race car actually work!
The respect and friendship betweeen you two has been quite evident in all the
years I have shared the track with you.

Thanks for sharing with all of us!
John Houlton








-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>; TornadoRegistrar <TornadoRegistrar at aol.com>
Cc: CDHEXTALL <CDHEXTALL at aol.com>; wiallisons <wiallisons at hotmail.com>; office
<office at tidemaster.co.uk>
Sent: Mon, Jul 18, 2011 10:04 am
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...


Amici...
After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
hunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
nternational Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
ismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While
he Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
ports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
odified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and we'll
ake that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
he sports racers.
Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
oncours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE'
ward.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
argest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure
hat
he 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
ar is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the
hunder Bolt has
on four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.
Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
ract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
ar.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since
oming to North America.
The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
ight.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race
vents is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
etune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
ar, and probably go on winning beauty contests.
The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
vents.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
etired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
ut not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
un.  Very satisfying.
Bill Dentinger
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com


From tlizzard at msn.com  Mon Jul 18 10:31:16 2011
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:31:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds203309A1D0304184F72953C34A0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to both you and Bob for all the memories.

The Tornado remains one of my favorite cars in all of North American vintage
racing, and you guys being the class act that you are have enriched my, and
all of our experience in the sport.


So, what's up your collective sleeves now?


Terry Stetler


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 10:48:30 2011
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:48:30 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fwd:  Swan Song...
Message-ID: <3c5d5.19b72ac3.3b55bdde@aol.com>

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From: BillDentin at aol.com
Full-name: BillDentin
Message-ID: <3b437.6c6434.3b55b85e at aol.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:25:02 EDT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Swan Song...
To: n197tr4 at cs.com
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In a message dated 07/18/2011 10:22:02 AM Central Daylight Time, 
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:


> ya!  say it aint so!    
> like the end of an era
>  relieved to read that SWAN SONG was not equivalent to TOTALED.
> 
Thank everyone for the warm comments.  

More than a few expressed concern over my choice of 'Swan Song'.  It sent 
me back to the dictionary to double check.

There it says something like:  "Swan song" is a metaphorical phrase for a 
final gesture, effort, or performance given just before death or retirement. 
The phrase refers to an ancient belief that the Mute Swan (Cygnus olor) is 
completely silent during its lifetime until the moment just before death, 
when it sings one beautiful song. The belief, now known to be incorrect, had 
become proverbial in Ancient Greece by the 3rd century BC, and was reiterated 
many times in later Western poetry and art.  Using it this morning...was 
just our turn.

While our Thunder Bolt was not mute, neither Bob nor I drove it anywhere 
near as fast as it would go.  For one thing, it used to scare us.  Its 
aerodynamic shape causes the front end to get VERY light at the end of long 
straights.  We added a chin spoiler, which helped a little, but we still had the 
sensation of power steering at the end of straights...power steering that 
didn't seem to turn the wheels.  Mute, or not, she sang a pretty swan song this 
past week end.

Thanks again for all of the warm comments.

Bill Dentinger


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 18 11:13:06 2011
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:13:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1311009186.97874.YahooMailRC@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bill & Bob ...
  I'd like to echo everyone elses comments ... its fast, and
a very pretty car; 
you two have done well with it ...  heres hoping its
future life will be as 
great as the past few years ...
 
Tom
http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire
________________________________
From: "BillDentin at aol.com"
<BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net; TornadoRegistrar at aol.com
Cc:
CDHEXTALL at aol.com; wiallisons at hotmail.com; office at tidemaster.co.uk
Sent: Mon,
July 18, 2011 9:43:06 AM
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...

Amici...

After
completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado 
Thunder
Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler 
International
Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob 
Wismer was
driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While 
the
Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
we'll 
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running
with 
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the
Friday night Race Car 
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its
second straight 'RESERVE' 
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de
Elegance is probably the 
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours
in the USA.  I am not sure 
what 

the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it
is something like, "Yeah, your 
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every
year."  Down through the years, the 
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in
this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the
fact that without our keeping close 
tract Bob and I ended up each running
exactly fifty-five race events in the 
car.  The guy we bought it from ran
one, for a total of 111 race events since 
coming to North America.

The
Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very 
light. 
Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at
Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine 
events.  So we got lots of,
"Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers. 
We were asked often about our
feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being 
retired from racing.  I think
most thought our reaction would be sadness.  
But not so.  Satisfaction would
be far more descriptive.  It's been a great 
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill
Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net


From harmug at us.ibm.com  Tue Jul 19 06:11:57 2011
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:11:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw:Lorne Fritz
Message-ID: <OFCB77B4E1.79C2D8C6-ON852578D2.00429CAC-852578D2.00430341@us.ibm.com>

FYI, posting a note from fellow FOT'r Lorne Fritz, he's been having e-mail
issues.

I get my FOT emails thru Hot Mail and I have ,for some unknown reason, have
not been able to get on the site for almost 2 months.  Could you please let
anyone who may be trying to contact me to try lorne.fritz at jlink.net .

Thanks
Lorne

mike
63 Spit
70 GT6
72 MkV
80 1500

G. Michael Harmuth


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Jul 19 07:46:21 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:46:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
Message-ID: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>

What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
an up-grade......thanks.......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
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is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Jul 19 08:30:48 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:30:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>

John, A lot of the racers I know with TR3, TR4 and TR6 (mine included) are 
using a Tilton rally clutch.  They use a 7.25" clutch and disc and aren't 
prone to the problems all the others are.  The main problem is the stock 
style TR6 clutch (which is what are most adapted to) is that the tabs that 
connect the cover to the pressure plate are only made to hold the pressure 
plate in acceleration mode and if you down shift or rev the engine with the 
clutch disengaged, the tabs will distort or break causing the pressure plate 
to get off center.
The other advantage is the weight savings of the rally clutch, about half 
the weight.
I've used the Saab turbo version of the TR6 pressure plate and several other 
"racing" clutches and all have failed, I've been using the Tilton for about 
3 years now with no problems. Quartermaster makes a similar clutch and 
contrary to belief, the parts are not interchangeable.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 6:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts 
> suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a 
> test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should 
> consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) 
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the 
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated 
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 08:53:02 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <000801cc4623$902fc070$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

All I have had replies from several folks to date.  As a consequence of  the
positive replies.... we have reached a threshold of price reduction i.e. Now,
about $2,250 fob!.  The next break point is $2,080 per unit and requires 10
orders.  I'm thinking that this is a pretty nice deal.  If ever there was a
time -this could be it as I doubt that a group buy will likely be comming
around in the forseable future.

Answer off line please.

Will place the order in the next two weeks to give enough time for questions.

Rev it up... for 2012!

Mordy

M.N.Dunst
Gasket Works USA, LLC
www.Headgasket.com
626.358.1616 ph1
626.354.1591 ph2/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax

Triple R Munitions, Inc.
Class 6  Certified F.F.L.
626.201.9471 ph/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax
GMT-8 Pacific


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jul 19 10:09:24 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:09:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>

I use the stock diaphragm style clutch.  Replaced a very nice dual 
plate Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without 
spinning the tires and breaking all of my motor mounts.  If you are 
making BIG power, the stock setup is kind of iffy.

Tony Drews

At 08:46 AM 7/19/2011, John Hasty wrote:
>What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
>think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
>day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
>thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
>an up-grade......thanks.......
>
>John H. Hasty
>Attorney At Law
>Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>719 East Boulevard
>Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>Tele: (704) 372-5600
>Fax: (704) 372-4601
>E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>www.gdhs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 19 11:07:36 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:07:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 19 Jul 2011, Tony Drews wrote:

> I use the stock diaphragm style clutch.  Replaced a very nice dual plate 
> Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without spinning the tires 
> and breaking all of my motor mounts.

That Tilton setup was awesome. I loved it!!!

> If you are making BIG power, the stock 
> setup is kind of iffy.

Agreed.

> Tony Drews

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jhouathome at aol.com  Tue Jul 19 11:23:18 2011
From: jhouathome at aol.com (jhouathome at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:23:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>

John,
I have used a Tilton for years on the TR4, and it's way too much.  Total
overkill.  Requires huge pedal effort, and is a real pain around the paddock
and from a standing start.  Nothing ever goes wrong with it, but it's really
not necessary.  I'll convert to a HD stock clutch next time the motor is out.
John Houlton






-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 19, 2011 9:12 am
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
hink the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
ay on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
hought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
n up-grade......thanks.......
John H. Hasty
ttorney At Law
uthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
19 East Boulevard
harlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
ele: (704) 372-5600
ax: (704) 372-4601
-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
ww.gdhs.com
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
ntended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
s PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
f you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
issemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
eceived this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
nd its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
egarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
ny tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
s not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
arketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
ddressed herein.
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Jul 19 11:52:30 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:52:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <4E25C45E.30001@bright.net>

John & list. We have a TR6 clutch disc made for us that is a stronger 
center and heavier gauge metal where friction material is attached.  
Solid center discs, either a single or multi-disc are fine if you are 
willing to live with a "light it and launch it" scenario. But, that same 
set-up, as Tony mentioned, won't live in a situation where you drive the 
car onto the trailer or similar situation that requires slipping the 
clutch. A picture is attached. $129.95 + shipping.  Thanks, Ted


On 7/19/2011 9:46 AM, John Hasty wrote:
> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson&  Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0094.JPG]


From horizonracing at msn.com  Tue Jul 19 11:53:20 2011
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 10:53:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>,
	<20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w25CA4E9521ED797ED36F03B24D0@phx.gbl>

By using a "rally" clutch from tilton,q-master etc , they are designed to take
the heat .....which means they "might" last longer and you can drive your car
into the trailer without smoking the thing. What is Important is to to fit a
clutch limit stop at the pedal to prevent "over centering" the spring in the
pressure plate.  As for the clutch release brg, I have made up a collar to
mount a tilton style release bearing but still uses the stock fork, shaft and
slave cylinder.

:)
Tony


> Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:07:36 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: tony at tonydrews.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
>
> On Tue, 19 Jul 2011, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > I use the stock diaphragm style clutch. Replaced a very nice dual plate
> > Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without spinning the
tires
> > and breaking all of my motor mounts.
>
> That Tilton setup was awesome. I loved it!!!
>
> > If you are making BIG power, the stock
> > setup is kind of iffy.
>
> Agreed.
>
> > Tony Drews
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair |
> Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From billb at bnj.com  Tue Jul 19 12:04:43 2011
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:04:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3C19082A-EF0D-49C3-B665-475C01911887@bnj.com>

I use a quartermaster two plate rally clutch. The key to pedal effort and
better control over the vicious hook up is a smaller master cylinder. I think
we're using a .5" or a 5/8. I'd probably go smaller if I could find one. The
smaller MC also makes it easier to avoid overstroking the clutch--you might
not even need a pedal stop, though it's worth making sure if you switch. I use
a saab concentric throwout bearing as well.

Stuff breaks on the stock clutches--at least it did for me. I've broken
Quartermasters too, but only from over-stroking and/or a long season. I ran
one for the entire All Aluminum tour and the year after. It was trashed, but
it never complained.
On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:23 AM, jhouathome at aol.com wrote:

> John,
> I have used a Tilton for years on the TR4, and it's way too much.  Total
> overkill.  Requires huge pedal effort, and is a real pain around the
paddock
> and from a standing start.  Nothing ever goes wrong with it, but it's
really
> not necessary.  I'll convert to a HD stock clutch next time the motor is
out.
> John Houlton


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 12:17:46 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:17:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <DC80918F9BA24A9599A56824B77D1968@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi Guys, I used a Magic clutch from TRF (Sachs) and got 3+ years out of it. 
The disc went last year at the Glen; tore the center out but it happened 
going out of turn 11 on the last lap and I coasted across the finish line.
I had Ted Schumacher get me a heave duty disc and used a Sachs pressure 
plate, part number SC430. Got the numbers off the old plate. It fits Saab, 
Vauxall, and Austin, by what it says on the box. Got it from my local parts 
store.
It seems to work well and is mild mannered.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 9:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts 
> suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a 
> test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should 
> consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) 
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the 
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated 
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 12:40:45 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:40:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover
References: <CAJ1+nOStm90+7ZQFSbTzNcm6==8vju33wdetFRomJdi1D5z8Yg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <70199F50635B4C46B52747DB48C65DEF@owner8914bbf7f>

I assume you're talking about intake port spacing.
According to Dr Dave, the literature says CC75000.Sometime in late '71 or 
early '72.
Best way is to measure the distance between ports. Early: 1/2"  Late: 1"
Hope this helps.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 10:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover


> Anyone remember when the TR6 engine changed port sizes? Year or S/N?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Jul 19 16:16:21 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 00:16:21 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>

I started from pole but a stone hit the radiator.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN3JhFvoC7w&feature=player_embedded

Cheers
Chris


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue Jul 19 20:14:11 2011
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 12:14:11 +1000
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>

i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, but
ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you guys
all want something different. even if we got 2 lots of 5 , it might be
viable. I'll stay in touch with Mordy rather than seek direct replies, as he
has put in the hard yards so far

Terry


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Tue Jul 19 21:16:06 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 20:16:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
Message-ID: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
power 
for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Jul 19 23:26:49 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 22:26:49 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E266719.7080003@comcast.net>

I use Porterfield shoes R-4 compound on the Spitfire.

On 7/19/2011 8:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 20 06:46:15 2011
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:46:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B0198B1B@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey membership,

 Sent this last week and didn't get but one response, can anyone help me on
this??

I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??

Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
the part

Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
Gear reduction starter    R-33037
Koni Shocks                 80-1005
Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
1.88"
Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
starter on passenger side
Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
56
Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
27B6, 0589
Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
insert, 50-522
Pistons                         17753B
Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
is 6.0"
Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???

Thanks so much for any help you can provide.


Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 06:58:35 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:58:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>

Jim,

I'm using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red


On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed Jul 20 07:26:28 2011
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 09:26:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002901cc46e0$a1a02f30$e4e08d90$@rr.com>

Yep, same thing here on the Spitfire.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Duncan Charlton
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 8:59 AM
To: sherry robyn
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
shoes

Jim,

I'm using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red


On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 07:50:01 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 06:50:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Use them on my TR4 as well.  


From: Duncan Charlton
<duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
Cc:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes

Jim,

I'm
using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good
source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in
Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Jul 20 08:08:02 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:08:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B0198B1B@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Message-ID: <1341F91FE6054985A52156D068A0E139@Charly>

Hey Mark,
Sorry no one replied to your posting, but try to understand that looking up 
these numbers can be very lengthy trying to find these in all the different 
manuals.  What I usually do is put the part # and a very short description 
into my Google search and see what come up.  I did this with your first item 
307265  V2989   A 1147  and I came up with a link to Rimmer Bros 
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005584
Try this and you might be surprised what you'll find.
Good Luck,
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diesel Performance Parts - Info" <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help


> Hey membership,
>
> Sent this last week and didn't get but one response, can anyone help me on
> this??
>
> I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??
>
> Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere 
> on
> the part
>
> Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I 
> think??
> Gear reduction starter    R-33037
> Koni Shocks                 80-1005
> Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
> Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks 
> to
> be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
> Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB 
> Supposedly a
> new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
> 1.88"
> Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" 
> Shaft
> at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
> starter on passenger side
> Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" 
> Shaft
> has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
> Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, 
> mains
> are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
> Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs) 
> GA42748HE, by
> dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
> Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been 
> decked so
> no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
> Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
> Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 
> 367871,
> 56
> Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, 
> RKO,
> 27B6, 0589
> Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
> Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area 
> steel
> insert, 50-522
> Pistons                         17753B
> Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to 
> center
> is 6.0"
> Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
> Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???
>
> Thanks so much for any help you can provide.
>
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
>
> www.dieselperformanceparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jul 20 08:08:39 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:08:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:

> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, but
> ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you guys
> all want something different.

Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the 
place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a 
hint about the advantages to whatever the differences are.

I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means 
ultimate reliability.

Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the 
short tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2. 
the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be 
reasonable to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever). 
That might reign things in a bit.

I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on 
that particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Jul 20 08:20:57 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:20:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <4E266719.7080003@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A6DD480AB3944C5864B6918CC733366@gdhs.local>

You might give Carbotec a call.....877-899-5024  their front pucks are
great.......their stuff is on the net

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 1:27 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
shoes


I use Porterfield shoes R-4 compound on the Spitfire.

On 7/19/2011 8:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better
> stopping power for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Jul 20 08:38:51 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:38:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 pistons
Message-ID: <00F2583BE65841B7AEA4C5DB2A4DDB04@gdhs.local>

Thanks for all the responses on Clutch options.....before I asked I was
ignorant, now I am confused.....Robert's suggestion that if it isn't broke
don't fix it seems to work, but the SPEC Stage 3 looks pretty good as
well.......Now, next question......pistons, flat or pop-up? And what rings?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Jul 20 08:51:15 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:51:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <9445DCA0A3AA4A0B82EA1F4343C07532@Charly>

Well, I might be making things a little more difficult with my request.  I 
need a long tail crankshaft and the flywheels are readily available from 
several sources and several configurations.  If anyone needs a stock 
flywheel for a long butt crankshaft as used in the TR5 and 69 TR6, I have a 
couple I could part with.  I believe the GT6 used the long butt crankshaft 
also.
As for bearings, I use the stock style bearings and for flywheel mounting, I 
can go either 4 bolt with 4 dowels or 8 bolts I guess.  I'd like to have the 
mains cross drilled as well.
With this being said, I'd go for 2 if we can get the price around $2000 or 
less.
Does this help anyone with getting an order together?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts


> On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:
>
>> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, 
>> but
>> ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you 
>> guys
>> all want something different.
>
> Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the 
> place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a 
> hint about the advantages to whatever the differences are.
>
> I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means 
> ultimate reliability.
>
> Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the 
> short tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2. 
> the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be 
> reasonable to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever). 
> That might reign things in a bit.
>
> I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on 
> that particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.
>
> Or maybe I'm missing something.
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 20 08:54:35 2011
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 09:54:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A53514ED7BC@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I don't have a TR6 racecar, just a Lemons TR6 but I have interest in building
a real one someday. As the price goes down, my  interest goes up. I've been
collecting parts.

Bob Kramer
Southern Construction Inventory Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35  Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-687-7422 Office
512-657-8526 Cell


Things turn out best for the people who make the best of the way things turn
out. ~John Wooden

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 9:09 AM
To: Enquiries Road & Track
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:

> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same
> quality, but ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it.
> It seems you guys all want something different.

Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the
place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a hint
about the advantages to whatever the differences are.

I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means ultimate
reliability.

Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the short
tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2.
the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be reasonable
to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever).
That might reign things in a bit.

I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on that
particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 20 09:14:11 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:14:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] CR
Message-ID: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>

What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a CR can be
run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?

Thanks,
Marty (one race in and I already want to go faster) :)


From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Jul 20 11:54:14 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 17:54:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5664A8E3DA447F8B777371DF4C0@phx.gbl>

I ran 13.2 for several years with just 100 pump octane gas.  Just be sure to
watch the plugs for detonation. the pistons were factory stock GT-6 which gave
a .040" oversize on the Spitfire.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: trmarty at hotmail.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:14:11 -0400
> Subject: [Fot] CR
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a CR can
be
> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty (one race in and I already want to go faster) :)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 12:58:21 2011
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:58:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crankshaft topic
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNARfhub9hNz7HMqzt7EDFH0qhq+FRdUeGfw0bz9OL+91Q@mail.gmail.com>

I am getting interested -but would be a short tail.

Charly, have you ever broken a crank?  I have burned several bearings, but
never has a crank broken.  I am using Racestoration's (Daryll Uprichard)
stronger main bearing caps and steel rear main seal holder as well as
aluminum oil pan -- all of which should help reduce risk.

By the way, I met him at a show in the UK in January and he showed me a
forged crank he had had made -- it had been micro polished to almost
absolute smoothness all over -- like an F1 crank.  Could put it in the
engine without pistons, but with the bearings correct, and then could
actually spin it by hand and it rolled like a top.  Would be interesting to
see what it would cost to get these cranks micro smoothed [it was done in
some type of aerospace polisher using a vibrating liquid filled with
triangular shaped microscopic beads].

Chuck

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 13:09:44 2011
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 12:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The only
time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I burned a
whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
 
Mike 

From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
Subject:
[Fot] CR

What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
CR can be
run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?

Thanks,
Marty (one race in and
I already want to go faster) :)


From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Jul 20 14:20:49 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 16:20:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
	<1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F91B9647-F71A-4625-B65C-0653C93044EC@seiri.com>

I went to 12:1 in the tr6 and can't keep lands in between rings, so I'm
falling back to around 10:1.

Kas ran @ 12:1 with much better success. But my engines need to last longer.
:)



On Jul 20, 2011, at 15:09, Mike Munson <fasttrs at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The
only
> time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I burned
a
> whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
> Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
>
> Mike
>
> From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
> Subject:
> [Fot] CR
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
> CR can be
> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty (one race in and
> I already want to go faster) :)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 19:08:19 2011
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:08:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I am in need of a moldex crankshaft for my tr4 engine. lead time @ moldex is
now 15 weeks.   does anybody have one they are interested in selling? 
New,used, or with an engine block.  open to discussing options.
 
Thanks, Mark
Wheatley   #86 TR-4                            
 
 
 
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From gasket.works at gte.net  Wed Jul 20 20:50:56 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 02:50:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com><1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1864033592-1311216659-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2018229428-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Contact John frymark.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Wheatley <amrenno1 at yahoo.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:08:19 
To: fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Reply-to: Mark Wheatley <amrenno1 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft

I am in need of a moldex crankshaft for my tr4 engine. lead time @ moldex is
now 15 weeks.   does anybody have one they are interested in selling? 
New,used, or with an engine block.  open to discussing options.
 
Thanks, Mark
Wheatley   #86 TR-4                            
 
 
 
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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_______________________________________________
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From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Jul 20 20:52:57 2011
From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 19:52:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
 brakeshoes
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
	<1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>

I have recently been using lining from Porterfield that they call their RD-7 
material. It is green in color. I have found it to work better than the RD-4 
material.
                                                                             
                    Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>; "sherry robyn" 
<sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 6:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear 
brakeshoes


> Use them on my TR4 as well.
>
>
> From: Duncan Charlton
> <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
> To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
> Cc:
> fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot]
> Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
>
> Jim,
>
> I'm
> using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
> Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating 
> greater
> friction on vintage racer brakes.
>
> Duncan
> (Texas)
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
> On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
>
>> I am looking for a good
> source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
>> power
>> for a TR6.  Jim in
> Folsom, CA
>> _______________________________________________
>>
> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Jul 20 21:02:23 2011
From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 20:02:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] CR
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl><1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<F91B9647-F71A-4625-B65C-0653C93044EC@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <04959EA78E1F482EBB9FAB3E1D80F5CB@TER2>

If you are breakiing ring lands off of the pistons, then you are 
experiencing detonation. Seems like the real answer would be to retard the 
ignition timing &/or richen the mixture.  Running the engine on a dyno and 
finding the proper "tune" for the combination you are using would gain you 
power and reliability.
                                                                             
                                            Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Bownes -Seiri" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "Mike Munson" <fasttrs at yahoo.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] CR


>I went to 12:1 in the tr6 and can't keep lands in between rings, so I'm
> falling back to around 10:1.
>
> Kas ran @ 12:1 with much better success. But my engines need to last 
> longer.
> :)
>
>
>
> On Jul 20, 2011, at 15:09, Mike Munson <fasttrs at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The
> only
>> time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I 
>> burned
> a
>> whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
>> Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
>> To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
>> Subject:
>> [Fot] CR
>>
>> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
>> CR can be
>> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
>> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
>> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
>> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
>> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marty (one race in and
>> I already want to go faster) :)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 21:19:34 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 22:19:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
 brakeshoes
In-Reply-To: <D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
	<1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>
Message-ID: <1EF21859-7BB5-4A8A-AFAD-EB5EC1E80429@gmail.com>

Greg,
I asked about RD-7 since I'd seen it in Porterfield's website catalog, but the
person I spoke to on the phone at Porterfield told me they'd discontinued it
with RD-4 as the remaining substitute.
Duncan
(Texas)

On Jul 20, 2011, at 9:52 PM, Greg Solow wrote:

> I have recently been using lining from Porterfield that they call their RD-7
material. It is green in color. I have found it to work better than the RD-4
material.
>
Greg Solow
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
> To: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>; "sherry robyn"
<sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 6:50 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
brakeshoes
>
>
>> Use them on my TR4 as well.
>>
>>
>> From: Duncan Charlton
>> <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
>> To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
>> Cc:
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot]
>> Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I'm
>> using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
>> Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating
greater
>> friction on vintage racer brakes.
>>
>> Duncan
>> (Texas)
>> 1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
>> On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
>>
>>> I am looking for a good
>> source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
>>> power
>>> for a TR6.  Jim in
>> Folsom, CA
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate:
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu Jul 21 06:49:14 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:49:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
Message-ID: <000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris


From gasket.works at gte.net  Thu Jul 21 10:38:23 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 16:38:23 +0000
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <1629438998-1311266304-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-478462162-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Our crank supplier...will make each Crankshaft to your specification.  They don't mind mixing and matching.  I will be sending to those that have responded a seperate order form and the group "code" to get the group rate.  I will tally the numbers but think we may have ten orders.  You will order what you wish and arrange shipment independently.    I spoke to them this morning. They will be on holiday for two weeks beginning this next week.
 


M


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From igofaster at att.net  Fri Jul 22 07:10:51 2011
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 06:10:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
Message-ID: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

watching these videos posted by MADMARX has to be one of the coolest things we 
get to see on FoT!
Keep 'em coming... great tracks and a better driver!
Bobby Whitehead
(sometimes) GT6+ racer




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 21, 2011 7:49:14 AM
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 22 10:00:14 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 16:00:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.29.1638251571.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Thank you for that, i try my very best!
That weekend was disappointing.
In both races start from the first row - and both races no finish.

Race 1: clutch failur
Race 2: stone in radiator

Chris
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 06:10:51 
To: MadMarx<tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: FoT Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

watching these videos posted by MADMARX has to be one of the coolest things we 
get to see on FoT!
Keep 'em coming... great tracks and a better driver!
Bobby Whitehead
(sometimes) GT6+ racer




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 21, 2011 7:49:14 AM
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 08:59:34 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:59:34 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder
In-Reply-To: <20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>

Maybe you might remember me making these high performance piston seals for
the front calipers.
I have these seals in store if people are interested.

Cheers
Chris


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Jul 25 10:49:59 2011
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 11:49:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder
In-Reply-To: <000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
	<000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>
Message-ID: <001201cc4aea$e4da3490$ae8e9db0$@com>

We are interested but do not have an urgent need.  We will need this winter
probably.  I'm trying to arrange with some friends in the Frankfurt area to
get the seals from you and pay you and then when my friend from here travels
to Germany he can pick them up and repay my German friends for them.  We can
save the shipping to the U.S. that way.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 10:00 AM
To: 'FoT Triumph'
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder

Maybe you might remember me making these high performance piston seals for
the front calipers.
I have these seals in store if people are interested.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Mon Jul 25 12:26:50 2011
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 12:26:50 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
Message-ID: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>

Perhaps the group can settle this.

If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that has
a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?

b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?

Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!

thanks!

Kevin


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Jul 25 12:31:18 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 14:31:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>

If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
it was nearly 15 years ago...


On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:

> Perhaps the group can settle this.
>
> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
> has
> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
>
> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
>
> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
>
> thanks!
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jul 25 12:50:11 2011
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 14:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
	<CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8C7F563E-DB65-4A6C-A178-3AD9904D56DB@me.com>

I'm guessing we are talking about tractor motors.  The sixes have a port on the block below the distributor, in line with the main galley and above the pressure valve from the oil pump discharge, that is filled in at the factory with some soft metal. It can be drilled out and the port re-tapped - takes the NPT end of an AN12 fitting.  That gets plumbed straight to the accusump, so when the 'sump discharges it pumps right back into the galley.  I have a one way valve on the supply or return from the oil cooler, so there's no way oil can go back to the filter.

On Jul 25, 2011, at 2:31 PM, robert bownes wrote:

If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
it was nearly 15 years ago...


On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:

> Perhaps the group can settle this.
> 
> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
> has
> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
> 
> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
> 
> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
> 
> thanks!
> 
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 25 12:56:10 2011
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 11:56:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
	<CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C4825A4A-47F5-4E88-BE48-F9D7385154C2@bnj.com>

I like to go straight to the oil galley, though that requires redrilling and
tapping a galley plug hole. No one way valve required. If you're going to go
to the adapter you need to figure out the flow path--some of them are
different--and tap in where you'll get the most direct feed to the block. You
don't want to go through the filter.
On Jul 25, 2011, at 11:31 AM, robert bownes wrote:

> If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
> after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
> it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
> before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
> it was nearly 15 years ago...
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Perhaps the group can settle this.
>>
>> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
>> has
>> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
>> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
>>
>> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
>>
>> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
>>
>> thanks!
>>
>> Kevin
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 12:59:03 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:59:03 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
	<1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000301cc4afc$ed7d2f00$c8778d00$@com>

Here is a different view, race 1.

 

http://contour.com/stories/oleben-race-1-part-1-tr-competition-british-gt-20
11--2


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 13:24:13 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 21:24:13 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>

And my video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsRqTkfAonw

Funny to watch my car in that rear mirror of the TR3.

At a lefthander I went out of road and hit the TR6. I was the naughty guy in
that situation :-(
Better to watch in the TR3 video as my camera came loose from that Morgan
car hit.
We both spun off. He lost his belt drive and I had a clutch failure after.
We both didn't see the finish


From markvaden at gmail.com  Mon Jul 25 14:34:54 2011
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:34:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks
Message-ID: <CAExoegnL+5a=2xJ9cGHzLY0MtT57b1-Ei1B8jA5aMi10VbX9tg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Does any one know of a good place on the west coast to have lever shocks
revalved for racing? Also I am looking for a place to rebuild my brake
calipers.

-Mark


From philhyer at gmail.com  Mon Jul 25 18:45:16 2011
From: philhyer at gmail.com (Phil Hyer)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:45:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
	<1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
	<000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
Message-ID: <CABLtXDjQOW7fMZSPoV25w08oD6c7h_XFqSs9urVp_yMsad95ew@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 3:24 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> And my video:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsRqTkfAonw
>
> Funny to watch my car in that rear mirror of the TR3.
>
> At a lefthander I went out of road and hit the TR6. I was the naughty guy
> in
> that situation :-(
> Better to watch in the TR3 video as my camera came loose from that Morgan
> car hit.
> We both spun off. He lost his belt drive and I had a clutch failure after.
> We both didn't see the finish
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/philhyer at gmail.com


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Tue Jul 26 00:34:50 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 23:34:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks
Message-ID: <e5be8cb6f7744f95901bc2c2d5240bf0.gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>

you can prepare the shocks yourself if they are not
leaking.
remove the end cover and the big bolt head that
covers the valve assembly. wash out the inside of the
shock resevoir and pump the lever to clean out the
cylinders. i have used gasoline to do this. do it
outside away from any buildings and source of open
flame. dry them out. unsolder the small nut on the
stem of the valve and adjust the valve tighter by two
turns. shim the larger diameter spring about 1/8
inch. (you can also purchase mg-b competition valves.
i think moss has them in stock. fill the resevoir and
the valve chamber with Castrol R 40 sae engine oil.
This is the old "castorbean based oil" reassemble the
shock and with it mounted in a vise with the vavle
chamber uppermost, work the shock through its full
range of movement 20 or 30 times until all of the air
has been worked out of the system. the arm shock move
smoothly with no "gaps" where there is no resistance
to movement.
  I did this to the lever shocks on the rear of my
morgan +  50 years ago and over 90,000 miles and many
races.  Those same shocks are still on the car, work
well and do not leak! (they are the same size shocks
as are fitted to TR-3 & TR-4 cars.
                                       Greg Solow
\


Greg Solow
The Engine Room
Sports Car Specialists
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
831 429-1800



------- Original Message -------
>From    : Mark Vaden[mailto:markvaden at gmail.com]
Sent    : 7/25/2011 1:34:54 PM
To      : fot at autox.team.net
Cc      :
Subject : RE: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks

 Hi,

Does any one know of a good place on the west coast
to have lever shocks
revalved for racing? Also I am looking for a place to
rebuild my brake
calipers.

-Mark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

 http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From tr6driver at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 26 13:49:13 2011
From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 12:49:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
Message-ID: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised if
we end the race with it looking like this!
 
It's hard to believe we started
with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back in
the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6 was
totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was very
helpful!
 
Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
 
Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to purchase
two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just aren't
quite straight anymore!
 
http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
 
Jamie Palmer
Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing


From barry at penybryn.ca  Wed Jul 27 12:34:59 2011
From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 12:34:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Video - Edmonton Indy Car Support Race
Message-ID: <001301cc4c8b$e61199a0$b234cce0$@ca>

Amici - While I realize that this is not strictly Triumph related ( the TR3
isn't ready yet), I participated in the Eurasia Cup support race at the
Edmonton Indy Car race held here in Edmonton at the downtown airport this
past weekend. The track was reconfigured from last year and is a little over
3 miles long with 13 corners, 2 of which are hairpins, with 3 very long
straights ( with the front straight being almost a mile long - the Indy cars
were topping out at 180-190 mph and this with an acute left at the end). We
put 50 cars on the track which made for some "interesting" moves. The incar
video is from the Subway GT3 Porsche Cup car driven by Peter Spencer,
because of the variety of cars entered - there were 2 British sports cars -
a gorgeous MGB and a Sunbeam Tiger, the closing speeds were phenomenal.

The video starts mid-race (the race was 45 mins. long).

Note the hi tech dash mounted analog g-force indicator...................

Barry.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5-8UWpVIWU


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Jul 27 15:01:10 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 23:01:10 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1758391041.236528.1311743957245.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
	<1758391041.236528.1311743957245.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002801cc4ca0$5277c100$f7674300$@com>

Let me add 4 laps of the qualy 1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XeAjCaLU5Q



The first laps I showed the car behind the track, then I tried to do a fast
lap with lots of traffic in my way and the end was the gearbox rear mount
broke.

BUT b P2 on the grid fortunately J



Cheers

Chris


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 06:02:46 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 08:02:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <3217AD62A8354D7BBF2569EBD7072614@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 05:07:17 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 07:07:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <4EBC3CD662464E9384AC881D511A686F@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck 
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 06:18:13 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 08:18:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck 
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

 Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Fri Jul 29 05:42:35 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 07:42:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>

Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin 
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div 
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of 
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the 
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 


From emanteno at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 06:12:38 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 07:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
	<95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMygsHoRhRGhpZmTBhpUt3m5Nh+woOGvFScyPYAYD-ft6yw@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 6:42 AM, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list.
> May I get a second?
>


WOW, Dick Stockton got a computer???!!!

Second.

And welcome, Dick.


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 29 06:15:55 2011
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 05:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <1311941755.55480.YahooMailClassic@web125708.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Second; and Dick doesn't need to worry these computer things are just a passing fad.

--- On Fri, 7/29/11, yellow04 at tr4racer.com <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:


From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Date: Friday, July 29, 2011, 6:42 AM


Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin 
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div 
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of 
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the 
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com


From ac at camoletti.ch  Fri Jul 29 06:22:25 2011
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 14:22:25 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Seconded:  Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <000901cc4dea$2d181220$87483660$@camoletti.ch>

Thank you Henry (and welcome back by the way...)
Welcome Dick ! Great addition to the list and what a CV !
Alex Camoletti
(from Switzerland, TR3A 1959)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de yellow04 at tr4racer.com
Envoyi : vendredi 29 juillet 2011 13:43
@ : fot at autox.team.net
Cc : stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Objet : [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!

Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list.
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996.

Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ac at camoletti.ch


From REK46 at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 06:23:01 2011
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:23:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>

I'll second it for sure...knew Dick from when I started racing a TR-250 in  
'68 , at Nelson Ledges.
 
 
In a message dated 7/29/2011 8:09:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellow04 at tr4racer.com writes:

Sorry  about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true  
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is  
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday,  he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those  of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing  in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an 
Austin 
Healey 3000,  Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph  TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after  overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob  Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED 
Div 
2nd  (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group  44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race 
of 
the  season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the  
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967  
American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd)  , ARRC 
Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra  (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan.  Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid  Ohio 6 Hour 
Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class  in a Dick 
Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first  professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all  of the 90s before buying 
back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in  2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the  car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry  "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime  Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he  retired in 
1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early  60s. Dick lent 
out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car  there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti,  Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to  Penske racing 
where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also  a long time 
employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to  the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found  the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com


From RustyTR4 at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 06:37:04 2011
From: RustyTR4 at aol.com (RustyTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:37:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <a1303.6555ea52.3b640370@aol.com>

I would consider it an honor to have him join our group.
 
Matt Bakes
 
Triumph  Rescue
617 Walnut St.
Bally, Pa. 19503
610-845-8217
_www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) 

British  Wiring
617 Walnut St.
P.O. Box 185
Bally, Pa. 19503
_www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/)  


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 29 06:37:14 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:37:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
	<95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <A22ACD20B9E14D108E01530C27F6365D@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi, I'll second. Dick's a good guy.
With his history, he should be on the list.
Welcome, Dick
Bill Tobin
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <stocktontr4 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2011 7:42 AM
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!


> Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
> miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
> right with the world again...
>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
> May I get a second?
>
> For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
> Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an 
> Austin Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans 
> Elva MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th 
> place finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win 
> co-driving with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 
> [ 66 NED Div 2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical 
> failure (ahead of Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the 
> last National race of the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor 
> Corporation trophy for the "Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph 
> competitor at the 1967 American Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 
> (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 3rd place after spinning off 
> track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 
> 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s 
> Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class A winner, and in the 
> same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton built Toyota 
> Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the North America. 
> Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back his old TR4 
> and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and orange" paint 
> scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.
>
> Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
> Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.
>
> Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 
> 1996. Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick 
> lent out his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. 
> Did tuning work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken 
> Slagle, Al Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske 
> racing where they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long 
> time employee.
>
> ~~~
>
> While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
> computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!
>
> Cheers
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 29 07:21:52 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 13:21:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <mailman.30.1638251571.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Have you ever seen him racing? Man, that's fun to watch!!!
Second!

Chris
------Originalnachricht------
Von: RustyTR4 at aol.com
Absender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
An: yellow04 at tr4racer.com
An: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Gesendet: 29. Jul. 2011 14:37

I would consider it an honor to have him join our group.
 
Matt Bakes
 
Triumph  Rescue
617 Walnut St.
Bally, Pa. 19503
610-845-8217
_www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) 

British  Wiring
617 Walnut St.
P.O. Box 185
Bally, Pa. 19503
_www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/)  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com



Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Fri Jul 29 07:40:48 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 06:40:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Kas cup 2011 you tube link
Message-ID: <001c01cc4df5$20d666f0$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

Finally, got my 2011 Laguna Seca K Cup vid to upload.  I didn't put the whole
vid in as it was really not needed.  I brought the size down from 3.97 gig to
150mb (edited final version).

highlights.


1) TR 250 zooming by me at the start caught me by surprise..  There was barely
enough room and only a top driver could have done that.  Good PASS!
2) Weaving through the infield on lap 1 behind the 250.
3) Watching a certain White Herald driver push his car as hard as it would
go...
4) Although a certain very fast Blue Morgan was just in front of me the entire
race... I did try to pass it at Turn 8/8a.  Always wanted to do a Zanardi>   A
bit reckless but, it was the white flag lap.  It didn't get me closer.

.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuMxGEM2FfI



Mordy

M.N.Dunst
Gasket Works USA, LLC
www.Headgasket.com
626.358.1616 ph1
626.354.1591 ph2/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax

Triple R Munitions, Inc.
Class 6  Certified F.F.L.
626.201.9471 ph/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax
GMT-8 Pacific


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 29 07:41:33 2011
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:41:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 7 lb TR flywheel - For Sale
Message-ID: <CADm3DLH_bMZF_bEf0SV+0Bn=oqP8kq4JXqK5HGR4=K8XYRmKjA@mail.gmail.com>

I have one of the original production run lightened flywheels that Uncle
Jack had produced.  This flywheel has never been used and has been cryo
treated.

Please contact me off list if interested.

Brad


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 29 07:47:22 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:47:22 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>
Message-ID: <001401cc4df6$0da2ac00$28e80400$@com>

I'm thinking about to change over to a Tilton unit with one or two clutch
plates.
Are there any part numbers to look for?
As on Ebay USA they are sold at reasonable prices.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Charly Mitchel
Gesendet: Dienstag, 19. Juli 2011 16:31
An: jhhasty at gdhs.com; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch

John, A lot of the racers I know with TR3, TR4 and TR6 (mine included) are
using a Tilton rally clutch.  They use a 7.25" clutch and disc and aren't
prone to the problems all the others are.  The main problem is the stock
style TR6 clutch (which is what are most adapted to) is that the tabs that
connect the cover to the pressure plate are only made to hold the pressure
plate in acceleration mode and if you down shift or rev the engine with the
clutch disengaged, the tabs will distort or break causing the pressure plate

to get off center.
The other advantage is the weight savings of the rally clutch, about half
the weight.
I've used the Saab turbo version of the TR6 pressure plate and several other

"racing" clutches and all have failed, I've been using the Tilton for about
3 years now with no problems. Quartermaster makes a similar clutch and
contrary to belief, the parts are not interchangeable.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 29 08:11:23 2011
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 10:11:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 7 lb TR flywheel - SOLD
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHQTtMwtkr_zwkE9vag=7o+LwaTggzR47033tR9znhQSw@mail.gmail.com>

 Flywheel has been sold.

Thanks.


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Fri Jul 29 13:18:42 2011
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:18:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire/GT6 spring spacers needed
Message-ID: <op.vzealg00airs7i@don-pc.belkin>

Does anyone have a couple Spitfire/GT6/Herald spring spacers sitting on  
the shelf that they'd be willing to part with?  I need to increase the  
ride height of the Spit racer that I'm putting back together after a long  
SCCA career to clear the taller tires for vintage.  I know I can shim  
between the spring retainer and chassis but I may need more distance than  
that will allow so spring spacers may be necessary in addition to shims.   
I'm pretty sure all GT6s came with spacers on the drivers side and  
possibly Heralds as well.  Naturally, I'm happy to pay shipping and a  
reasonable amount for them.  Thanks, Don
--


From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Jul 29 13:27:54 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:27:54 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>
References: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W605C67F9B63AE96E581485DF370@phx.gbl>

Dick Stockton using a computer? Wow, that alone is worth the second or number
fifty for this great guy and racer and my old friend of 50 years.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: REK46 at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:23:01 -0400
> To: yellow04 at tr4racer.com; fot at autox.team.net
> CC: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
>
> I'll second it for sure...knew Dick from when I started racing a TR-250 in
> '68 , at Nelson Ledges.
>
>
> In a message dated 7/29/2011 8:09:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com writes:
>
> Sorry  about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true
> miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is
> right with the world again...
>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday,  he would like to get on the FOT list.
> May I get a second?
>
> For those  of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
> Starting racing  in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an
> Austin
> Healey 3000,  Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva
> MKIV. Triumph  TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place
> finish after  overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving
> with Bob  Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED
> Div
> 2nd  (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of
> Group  44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race
> of
> the  season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the
> "Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967
> American
> Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd)  , ARRC
> Pole
> 3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra  (CSX2009) NE
> Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan.  Front runner in
> IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid  Ohio 6 Hour
> Class
> A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class  in a Dick
> Stockton
> built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first  professional victory in the
> North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all  of the 90s before buying
> back
> his old TR4 and started vintage racing in  2002. Ran a disco "blue and
> orange" paint scheme until he repainted the  car black in 2008.
>
> Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry  "Racer" Walsh, Jerry
> Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime  Rock.
>
> Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he  retired in
> 1996.
> Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early  60s. Dick lent
> out
> his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car  there. Did tuning
> work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti,  Ken Slagle, Al
> Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to  Penske racing
> where
> they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also  a long time
> employee.
>
> ~~~
>
> While Dick is certainly no newcomer to  the racing scene, he it to the
> computer world. I am not sure he has found  the Reply button yet!
>
> Cheers
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From jfrymark at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 16:21:38 2011
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:21:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>

I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to  
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very  
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better  
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design  
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html 
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have  
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and  
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes  
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes  
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per  
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original  
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention  
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 29 17:19:01 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:19:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE1C5D08BDD967-164C-322E8@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>

just a reminder...

with CHRIS MARX's new VITON seal you can have the best of all worlds by
retaining the scroll seal function and add the benefit of the superior VITON
seal.

consider ordering the crankshafts with the scroll seal so you can use the
VITON seal too.

Chris is getting good reports on this viton seal application, and so am I.





-----Original Message-----
From: John Frymark <jfrymark at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 29, 2011 5:43 pm
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft


I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 29 18:23:32 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:23:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>

John,
Is it too early to determine whether a group buy will result in a discounted
price?
Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 5 #6 red

On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:21 PM, John Frymark wrote:

> I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
> pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
> specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
> option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
> like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
> ). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
> the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
> contact me off-line.
>
> For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
> additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:
>
> $2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
> balancing.
>
> Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
> Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
> scroll seal flange.
>
> Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge
>
> $100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)
>
> Actual shipping charges for delivery
>
> No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)
>
> 50% Deposit required.
>
> 14 week delivery
>
> Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
> "FoT Deal".
>
> See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.
>
> (They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)
>
>
>
>
> John Frymark
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From jfrymark at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 19:52:54 2011
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 18:52:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
	<678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <53929CE8-B3FD-42D5-B4E3-79C7865F77C1@aol.com>

Duncan,
If any one person wants to step forward and be financially responsible  
for a several-unit order they should call David. I'm sure he was  
thinking this FOT Deal pricing might bring in "a few" individual  
orders that he can run simultaneously through his operation. His price  
is lower than what Moldex and Crower have quoted and a whole heck of a  
lot less than Racetorations.

John
On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:23 PM, Duncan Charlton wrote:

> John,
> Is it too early to determine whether a group buy will result in a  
> discounted price?
> Duncan
> (Texas)
> 1952 Morgan Plus 5 #6 red
>
> On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:21 PM, John Frymark wrote:
>
>> I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
>> pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
>> specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
>> option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
>> like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
>> ). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
>> the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
>> contact me off-line.
>>
>> For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
>> additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:
>>
>> $2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
>> balancing.
>>
>> Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
>> Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
>> scroll seal flange.
>>
>> Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge
>>
>> $100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy,  
>> Honda)
>>
>> Actual shipping charges for delivery
>>
>> No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)
>>
>> 50% Deposit required.
>>
>> 14 week delivery
>>
>> Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
>> "FoT Deal".
>>
>> See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.
>>
>> (They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> John Frymark
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 12:23:59 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
In-Reply-To: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <180D66AE-40EC-4715-95A3-BDA3E676EF9E@aol.com>

4 hours into VIR we running 24th of 84

God save the queen

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2011, at 3:49 PM, Jamie Palmer <tr6driver at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
> now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised
if
> we end the race with it looking like this!
>
> It's hard to believe we started
> with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back
in
> the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
> Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6
was
> totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was
very
> helpful!
>
> Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
> write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
>
> Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to
purchase
> two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just
aren't
> quite straight anymore!
>
> http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
>
> Jamie Palmer
> Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 12:46:24 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:46:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
In-Reply-To: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79B0FFDA-9FBD-4DF6-B882-1C981BEE26EE@aol.com>

4 hrs 35 mins in
22nd place

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2011, at 3:49 PM, Jamie Palmer <tr6driver at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
> now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised
if
> we end the race with it looking like this!
>
> It's hard to believe we started
> with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back
in
> the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
> Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6
was
> totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was
very
> helpful!
>
> Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
> write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
>
> Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to
purchase
> two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just
aren't
> quite straight anymore!
>
> http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
>
> Jamie Palmer
> Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul 30 13:24:59 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 15:24:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Body Tub
Message-ID: <42F53E1FB27E4C87A2034A32B429F1F2@userb38463fba5>

I have a TR4A body tub with doors and fiberglass rear fenders sitting on a TR6
new body shipping frame (the frame that the big 3 get their TR6 new bodies
shipped from England) available. Some rust in the likely places but never
bent. I've owned the car since 1969. I restored my car with a near perfect tub
from Texas so this is excess to me.
I'd like $500.00 for the tub and shipping frame.
Any interest? I may be interested in selling pieces if no one wants the whole
thing.
I may keep the doors.
JVV


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Sat Jul 30 13:33:10 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 12:33:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Just some history... and some extra color.
Message-ID: <002001cc4eef$847879a0$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

  I thought I would put down on paper some interesting notes.  You may have
seen the You tube videos that some of the Fot members have posted on 2011 Kas
Cup race at Laguna Seca.

    For those who are not familiar...

  Mr. Jerry Barker (winner of the Kas Cup 2011)  has some interesting
backround... See the links.

  http://www.flickriver.com/photos/27666849 at N04/3369691006/

  His Dad Mr.  Ed  Barker raced with Kas.  You may notice that he was entered
in 1965 Sebring and raced with my Father in Law Mr. Mike Rothschild.

  http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/results/Ed-Barker-USA.html?page=2

  The Baby Doll Morgan driven by Mr. Greg Solow  has some marvelous history.
Here is a simple link.
   http://www.forbes.com/2002/09/24/0924vow.html

  The TR250K has had some marvelous previous drivers over the years.  One
driver has some interesting history as well, Mr William (Bill) Watkins.   He
is an engineer by trade.  Accomplishments include many but, a couple are sort
of interesting (at least for me).  He engineered the Dysneyland Space Mountain
ride. In fact he received a patent for some of his efforts. He was so into
safety that he would not allow anyone to ride on it until he gave the thumbs
up.
  http://www.fot-racing.com/historic/caption/TR250k.htm
  http://www.mouseplanet.com/7138/DL_Space_Mountain_Part_2


  The second accopmplishement was suspending my Garage roof.  He was in need
of some gaskets for his racer in New Zealand.  He came to me and asked me to
make them for him.    I could not accept any money from him as it was an
honor.   He said that he would not leave until we agreed to a price.  So, I
traded him for engineering work to suspend my Metal Garage Roof so that I had
a clear span.  I told him that I wanted it our of Wood not metal.   He did the
calc's and told me precisely what was needed.  The roof only dropped .125" of
an inch when I finished.

  Currently, the 250k isowned by Mr. Bill Hart and  driven by Mr. Tony Garmey
... Can you very fast.



  Mordy


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 15:08:59 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 17:08:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>

21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
 
we shall keep calm and carry on
 
Jack Mc


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 17:14:20 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 19:14:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
In-Reply-To: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
References: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>

Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:

> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>
> we shall keep calm and carry on
>
> Jack Mc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Sat Jul 30 17:43:47 2011
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 23:43:47 +0000
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <mailman.31.1638251571.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

Use the rain line!
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
------Original Message------
From: Jack Mc
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: LimeyV8 at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Sent: Jul 30, 2011 6:14 PM

Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:

> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>
> we shall keep calm and carry on
>
> Jack Mc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com



Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sun Jul 31 03:21:00 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 05:21:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
In-Reply-To: <05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>
References: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
	<05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>
Message-ID: <85D07286-4BC8-4535-BC7C-C82E957B79D6@aol.com>

17th @ 5:20 am

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 7:14 PM, Jack Mc <LimeyV8 at aol.com> wrote:

> Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course
>
> Jack Mc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>>
>> we shall keep calm and carry on
>>
>> Jack Mc
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 07:23:33 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:23:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
Message-ID: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using 
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial 
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I 
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian 
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the 
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal 
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the 
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some 
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end 
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV 
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head 
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to 
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no 
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the 
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Jul 31 08:50:09 2011
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:50:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <D230C37F7F8E467DB2AFF07AFE4CA0B4@latitudefb1e41>

I guess it all depends on the crank dimensions. I have an incorrect crank 
dimension on a
TR4 due to a machine shop error. I sanded down the aluminum pieces to 
tighten up the fit, trimmed the seal and shortened the spring. It still 
leaks but the PO had vented the crankcase to the exhaust pipe and I'm 
thinking that suction keeps it manageable.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 8:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap


> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
> ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
> ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
> History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using the 
> split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial build 
> I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I packed 
> the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket 
> Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces. 
> Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  I cleaned up 
> the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the shellac in the 
> cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal housing and on the 
> block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the world until it 
> dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some shellac also 
> dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.
>
> This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end of 
> the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  Same 
> assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV on the 
> seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head and 
> pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to the 
> cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly. 
> Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
> from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
> as the last time.
>
> Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
> sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
> with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
> occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no idea 
> what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the shellac 
> and it pours past the felt strips.
>
> TIA
>
> jim
>
> -- 
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 09:09:24 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:09:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1638251571.12548.fot@autox.team.net>

I never heard that shellac for engines only for music recordings.
I soak the felt in Hylomar or if that is not available in silicone.
As woraround you can try to cover the bearing cap boundings with silicone.

Chris
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:23:33 
To: fot<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using 
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial 
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I 
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian 
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the 
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal 
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the 
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some 
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end 
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV 
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head 
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to 
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no 
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the 
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 09:58:38 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:58:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <4E357BAE.40707@blacksburg.net>

On 7/31/2011 9:23 AM, J.C. Hassall wrote:
> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
> ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
> ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
Tnx for the responses, here's additional background.  The engine has 
less than 300 miles on a complete rebuild, although the rings should be 
fairly well seated by now (WOT in 3rd, then back off, etc).  The block 
is vented by the usual draft tube, valve cover with the stock mesh 
filler cap.  (The original intent of this car was autoxing, but now it 
seems to be a garage ornament). I have not as yet tied the block vent to 
the exhaust, still trying to figure where to put the venturi downstream 
from the O2 sensor.

My theory is that the shellac is the culprit, since (I believe) it 
should set up hard and stay that way, thus forming an impregnable seal 
with the felt.  What are folks using to soak the felt?

I can't change to Chris' seal, as the crank has been turned to the 2.500 
dimension, balanced and nitrided.  I should consider that a sunk cost 
and just get another crank, but the Navy could have built another 
aircraft carrier for what I've sunk in the ole buggy, so I need to take 
SWMBO for a successful spin first. :-)

j

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 10:10:50 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:10:50 +0200
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002301cc4f9c$6d0e06b0$472a1410$@com>

Sounds very interesting to me.
Especially that you can run the scroll version.
Would be a very good Christmas present.
I'm really tempted.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von John Frymark
Gesendet: Samstag, 30. Juli 2011 00:22
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft

I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 10:19:45 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:19:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <002401cc4f9d$abb223a0$03166ae0$@com>

I had a look on the property of shellac. It does melt at about 1300C and
does not resist to water and some other chemicals. Engine oil was not
mentioned but as it can be solute in ethanol.

I think that is not a proper sealant for engines.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von J.C. Hassall
Gesendet: Sonntag, 31. Juli 2011 15:24
An: fot
Betreff: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of),
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 31 12:46:52 2011
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:46:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <96EE4A2F-E00F-4A19-B218-67253B6AD4CF@earthlink.net>

i use permatex aviation forn-a-gasket sealant item number 80017. soak the felt
strips for a few days. make sure the mains are align- honed in the block and
double check the crank, and alum seal dimensions.

Steve

On Jul 31, 2011, at 6:23 AM, "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net wrote:

> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped ~1/2cup of
oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
> History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using the
split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial build I
shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I packed the
grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac
and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac
oozed into the block and also on the outside.  I cleaned up the inside with
lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the shellac in the cap).  I put a very
thin film of RTV inside the seal housing and on the block to housing
interface.  All seemed good with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil,
leading to the current rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of
the block down the inspection plate.
>
> This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end of
the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  Same
assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV on the seal
housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head and pounded them
home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to the cap groove
contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  Shellac oozed into /
out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped from the hot engine, but
only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads as the last time.
>
> Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), with
no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak occurred last
night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no idea what.
HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the shellac and it pours
past the felt strips.
>
> TIA
>
> jim
>
> --
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Sun Jul 31 12:43:36 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:43:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>

First you need to determine exactly where the leakage is coming from by 
close examination of the back of the engine and the flywheel. is the leakage 
out of the seal itself onto the flywheel and then covering the front face of 
the flywheel? Is the leakage from the sides of the main cap where it meets 
the block?
    For years we have used "silicone sealer" along with the felt packing on 
the sides of the main cap. We cut the packing into pieces about 3/8" long. 
During the packing process we look for the sealer to come out in a solid 
line beginning at the very bottom corner (as the block is upside down) and 
continuing all the way up to the pan gasket surface. Then we wipe off the 
excess.
    As for the seal itself. I would get a round piece of stock the same size 
as the seal surface on your crank. Fit the seal around that surface with the 
spring in place on the seal. hold the seal in one hand and look at the way 
it fits against the metal surface. Is the sealing lip deflected (it should 
be), you should be able to move the seal radially from side to side up to 
almost 1/8"  and not see light anywhere around the seal lip where it fits 
against the "dummy crank".
    Lastly, it is imperative that the aluminum seal holder halves fit 
tightly against one another while at the same time not holding the rear main 
cap up from seating firmly against the block!  We have seen this situation 
where the cap will not seat all the way down against the block because the 
seal holder is mismachined and when it is bolted to the block and cap, the 
holder faces touch before the cap will touch the block. The center of the 
seal holder must also be nearly perfectly centered on the crankshaft. You 
must use a centering tool of some kind to make sure this is so.
    If you get all of this right, the seal should only leak a tiny bit. We 
have never been able to make this type of seal completely dry as we have our 
Chrysler seal conversion. But without building the size of the crank back up 
you are stuck with the seal you are tying to use.
                                                                             
                        Greg Solow 


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 13:20:45 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:20:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
	<1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>
Message-ID: <4E35AB0D.7000406@blacksburg.net>

On 7/31/2011 2:43 PM, Greg Solow wrote:
> First you need to determine exactly where the leakage is coming from 
> by close examination of the back of the engine and the flywheel. is 
> the leakage out of the seal itself onto the flywheel and then covering 
> the front face of the flywheel? Is the leakage from the sides of the 
> main cap where it meets the block?
>    For years we have used "silicone sealer" along with the felt 
> packing on the sides of the main cap. We cut the packing into pieces 
> about 3/8" long. During the packing process we look for the sealer to 
> come out in a solid line beginning at the very bottom corner (as the 
> block is upside down) and continuing all the way up to the pan gasket 
> surface. Then we wipe off the excess.

Tnx Greg, that's what I was looking for.  What "silicone sealer" did you 
use?  I had a thin line of shellac down both sides of the cap and used 
lacquer thinner sparingly to clean it on the inside, left it alone on 
the outside.

>    As for the seal itself. I would get a round piece of stock the same 
> size as the seal surface on your crank. Fit the seal around that 
> surface with the spring in place on the seal. hold the seal in one 
> hand and look at the way it fits against the metal surface. Is the 
> sealing lip deflected (it should be), you should be able to move the 
> seal radially from side to side up to 
almost 1/8"  and not see light anywhere around the seal lip where it 
fits against the "dummy crank".

Yup, did that, even put oil on the "dummy crank" to see if it seeped 
thru ("down") after a few days - it was dry (this after trimming the 
spring and seal again).

>    Lastly, it is imperative that the aluminum seal holder halves fit 
> tightly against one another while at the same time not holding the 
> rear main cap up from seating firmly against the block!  We have seen 
> this situation where the cap will not seat all the way down against 
> the block because the seal holder is mismachined and when it is bolted 
> to the block and cap, the holder faces touch before the cap will touch 
> the block. The center of the seal holder must also be nearly perfectly 
> centered on the crankshaft. You must use a centering tool of some kind 
> to make sure this is so.

That may be an issue, as I put a thin film of RTV on the seal holder 
mating faces as the cap was installed.  After the cap was tight I tapped 
the seal holder along the axis of the cap and tightened it.  The holder 
on the cap was loose-ish, so should not have prevented the cap from 
fully seating, but who knows?  I guess I need to have an alignment tool 
made to key on the journal OD and seal holder ID, just to be sure.  But 
at this point I'm fairly convinced that the problem is the shellac 
turning to goo, as the seal holders are dry.

Another issue could be how saturated the felt strips were.  Steve Belfer 
suggested soaking them for a few days, I only soaked these for a couple 
of hours.  I may have pounded the surface shellac out of them, leaving 
rather dry felt.

>    If you get all of this right, the seal should only leak a tiny bit. 
> We have never been able to make this type of seal completely dry as we 
> have our Chrysler seal conversion. But without building the size of 
> the crank back up you are stuck with the seal you are tying to use.
>                                                                             
>                        Greg Solow
>

Tnx again to all who responded, I'll post results later.

j

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 31 15:28:14 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 16:28:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>

Your assembly sounds exactly like mine, and I got it to not leak very 
much this year.  The one change I made (due to a dialog on this forum 
a while back) is to:
1. Make sure that the vent tube that goes through the rear main from 
the rear seal to below the crank is open.
2. Drill two extra 3/8" holes in the rear main cap parallel to the 
built in vent tube on either side of the vent tube.  If you don't 
give the oil any place to go, it will go out the rear main no matter 
HOW good the seal is.

I suspect the above is your issue - you can get a little oil through 
the vent tube (works on the starter) but not a lot of oil through the 
vent tube (doesn't work when engine is running).

The Indian Head Shellac has worked fine for me (and for Uncle Jack) 
for years - that's not your problem.  I do not soak the felt for more 
than a few seconds.  It does come out both sides of the gap between 
the main and the block and is messy.

Also, make sure that you're not really leaking from somewhere else 
like the cam plug or the end of the main oil gallery.  Both of those 
will fill up your bellhousing in no time.

Tony Drews

At 08:23 AM 7/31/2011, J.C. Hassall wrote:
>Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
>("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
>~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
>History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm 
>using the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On 
>the initial build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon 
>with Uncle Jack. I packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of 
>felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out 
>of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the 
>block and also on the outside.
>I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin 
>the shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the 
>seal housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good 
>with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current 
>rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of the block down 
>the inspection plate.
>
>This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the 
>end of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
>Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more 
>RTV on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same 
>Indian Head and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch 
>which conformed to the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt 
>was pounded uniformly.
>Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also 
>dripped from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the 
>thick beads as the last time.
>
>Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 
>3 sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think 
>of), with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last 
>leak occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but 
>have no idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil 
>thins the shellac and it pours past the felt strips.
>
>TIA
>
>jim
>
>--
>Jim Hassall
>Blacksburg VA
>'63 TR4 in autox preparation
>99% finished, 90% to go
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 31 16:09:15 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 17:09:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
	<20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110731220932.D2007187974@autox.team.net>

To be clear, it's drill two holes, one on either side of the vent tube...

Tony

At 04:28 PM 7/31/2011, Tony Drews wrote:
>Your assembly sounds exactly like mine, and I got it to not leak 
>very much this year.  The one change I made (due to a dialog on this 
>forum a while back) is to:
>1. Make sure that the vent tube that goes through the rear main from 
>the rear seal to below the crank is open.
>2. Drill two extra 3/8" holes in the rear main cap parallel to the 
>built in vent tube on either side of the vent tube.  If you don't 
>give the oil any place to go, it will go out the rear main no matter 
>HOW good the seal is.
>
>I suspect the above is your issue - you can get a little oil through 
>the vent tube (works on the starter) but not a lot of oil through 
>the vent tube (doesn't work when engine is running).
>
>The Indian Head Shellac has worked fine for me (and for Uncle Jack) 
>for years - that's not your problem.  I do not soak the felt for 
>more than a few seconds.  It does come out both sides of the gap 
>between the main and the block and is messy.
>
>Also, make sure that you're not really leaking from somewhere else 
>like the cam plug or the end of the main oil gallery.  Both of those 
>will fill up your bellhousing in no time.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 08:23 AM 7/31/2011, J.C. Hassall wrote:
>>Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still 
>>leaking ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time 
>>it dumped ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>>
>>History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm 
>>using the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On 
>>the initial build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon 
>>with Uncle Jack. I packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of 
>>felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out 
>>of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the 
>>block and also on the outside.
>>I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not 
>>thin the shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside 
>>the seal housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed 
>>good with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the 
>>current rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of the 
>>block down the inspection plate.
>>
>>This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the 
>>end of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
>>Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more 
>>RTV on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same 
>>Indian Head and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch 
>>which conformed to the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt 
>>was pounded uniformly.
>>Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also 
>>dripped from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not 
>>the thick beads as the last time.
>>
>>Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter 
>>for 3 sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could 
>>think of), with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this 
>>last leak occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, 
>>but have no idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot 
>>oil thins the shellac and it pours past the felt strips.
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>jim
>>
>>--
>>Jim Hassall
>>Blacksburg VA
>>'63 TR4 in autox preparation
>>99% finished, 90% to go
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sun Jul 31 16:21:22 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <8e39.5f7e23b4.3b672f62@aol.com>

The last few hours of the race were really "interesting" - on-line  timing 
and scoring (which most of us were able to follow on our stupid smart  
phones throughout most of the race) went dark in the last hour of the race, but  
we THINK we finished 19th 
remarkable, considering that Sunday morning we
- tore the center out of the left front wheel (Jamie  driving)
- completely wore out the front brake pads and blew a piston out of a  
caliper - replaced both brake calipers in our lengthiest pit stop of the race  
(me driving)
- had a right rear tire go suddenly flat when somebody got close  enough on 
track to shear off the valve stem (Wayne Andrews driving)
 
- oh yeah - we lost the starter before the sun came up on Sunday,  but this 
was a barely a minor inconvenience since the car can be push  started in 
about 3 feet in first gear and I don't believe anybody went off track  bad 
enough to stall the car throughout the whole 24 hours...okay, 27 hours, if  you 
count the track reconfiguration breaks and the lightening delay
 
So - at the end of the event we drove a mostly unscathed, still good  
running car back on the trailer and all went home smiling with a top 20  finish. 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 7/31/2011 11:55:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tedtsimx at bright.net writes:

What is current  status?  It,s been 3 hours since we heard anything.  Great 
job so.  Keep it going.  Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon  Wireless


-----Original message-----

From: Jack Mc  <LimeyV8 at aol.com>
To: Jack Mc  <LimeyV8 at aol.com>
Cc: "fot at autox.team.net"  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 31, 2011 09:21:00  GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR  update


17th @ 5:20 am

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul  30, 2011, at 7:14 PM, Jack Mc <limeyv8 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart 
 in
19th place on a very wet course
>
> Jack  Mc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2011, at  5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> 21st place (84 cars  started) 7 hours in
>>
>> we shall keep calm and carry  on
>>
>> Jack Mc
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> _http://www.fot-racing.com_ (http://www.fot-racing.com/) 
>>
>>  Donate: _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ 
(http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
>>  Archive: _http://www.team.net/archive_ (http://www.team.net/archive) 
>>  Forums: _http://www.team.net/forums_ (http://www.team.net/forums) 
>>  Unsubscribe: 
_http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com_ (http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com) 
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Donate:  _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ 
(http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
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Unsubscribe:  
_http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net_ (http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net) 


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 06:15:40 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:15:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by
In-Reply-To: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE05FFB9BAA7FC-1DF0-5D8A2@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 FOT






 Curtis has a website on British Race Cars.

He doesnt know much about Triumphs so I introduced him to Bob Wismer  and
Dennis Delap at VIR.

He did an extensive photo/journal on the THUNDERBOLT and JUST published an
article on Dennis' new modified TVR '2200'.

He is in Seattle right now.  He will stop in to visit you NW GUYS.

Very pleasant guy and an opportunity to showcase our Triumphs as well
providing some owner with a rather comprehensive document on your Triumph.

BRITISHRACECAR.COM    is the website, I believe.

PACK A LUNCH...the articles are very comprehensive and long.

Who is going to be next?

Joe A


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 06:38:46 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:38:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
Message-ID: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  1 07:09:14 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:09:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT list
Message-ID: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>

I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 07:29:23 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:29:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] FOT list  attn: mark bradakis
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

 MARK B is the guy.

we dont want to lose Bill Tobin

i also have an address that shows only '3' instead of '31'      which is
correct?









-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:22 am
Subject: [Fot] FOT list


I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill
changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Jul  1 07:36:55 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 06:36:55 -0700
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E0DCD77.1030607@comcast.net>

Second and welcome Bob & Becky - They are great folks and there is a TR6 
involved.  They are getting married next weekend at the Portland 
Historic Races.

On 7/1/2011 5:38 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>   Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
> into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.
>
> Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others
>
> bob at nwspeedshots.com
>
> Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.
>
> I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY
>
> I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.
>
> Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul  1 08:04:36 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 10:04:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] [CWE] SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by
In-Reply-To: <57E2823E71FA4C778C081351576CEAA2@Charly>
References: <8CE05FE5D2CBAD5-1DF0-5D772@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<57E2823E71FA4C778C081351576CEAA2@Charly>
Message-ID: <8CE060EF1FCFC3C-D80-35D45@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com>

 will do....

he has a gallery of race cars, as well as the major articles....a few are
listed in it.

like jeff snook, george wright and scott janzen.

it would be nice to have all of the FOT  in there.








-----Original Message-----
From: Charly Mitchel <charly at mitchelplumbing.com>
To: cwe <cwe at autox.team.net>; n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:43 am
Subject: Re: [CWE] SEATTLE   SOVERN      look for Curtis to stop by


Joe, if you can let him know we are all grouped in one area in the paddock,
Jeff Quick, Steve Hare, Mark York, Mike Mehl and myself.
Thanks,
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

----- Original Message -----

From:   n197tr4 at cs.com

To: cwe at autox.team.net

Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 5:05 AM

Subject: [CWE] SEATTLE SOVERN look for   Curtis to stop by




Curtis has a website on British   Race Cars.

He doesnt know much about Triumphs so I introduced him to   Bob Wismer Dennis
Delap at VIR.

He did an extensive photo/journal on   the THUNDERBOLT and was working on
Dennis' new modified TVR the last I   knew.

He is in Seattle right now.  He will stop in to visit you NW   GUYS.

Very pleasant guy and an opportunity to showcase our Triumphs as   well
providing some owner with a rather comprehensive document on your   Triumph.

BRITISHRACECAR.COM    is the website, I   believe.

Joe A










_______________________________________________
Cwe mailing   list
Cwe at autox.team.net

Donate:   http://www.team.net/donate.html

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/cwe/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  1 08:29:16 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 10:29:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FOT list  attn: mark bradakis
In-Reply-To: <8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <BLU160-w422FF2A6566A65D3A92702BA5B0@phx.gbl>,
	<8CE060A064AB7ED-1DF0-5E353@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <blu160-w20B61D5CD95DB7B47E7669BA5B0@phx.gbl>

The "31" is correct.  He must have wore out the "3" one.  :)

Marty




To: trmarty at hotmail.com; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT list attn: mark bradakis
From: n197tr4 at cs.com
CC: william.tobin31 at verizon.net
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 09:29:23 -0400


MARK B is the guy.

we dont want to lose Bill Tobin

i also have an address that shows only '3' instead of '31'      which is
correct?









-----Original Message-----
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 8:22 am
Subject: [Fot] FOT list


I ran into fellow FOT'r Bill Tobin at Mid-Ohio over the weekend.  Bill
changed
his email address a while ago and has fallen off the list and is not sure how
to climb back on.  I seem to recall someone other than MJB being in charge of
this but cannot remember who.  Bill's new email address is below. Can the
keeper of the addresses fix him up?


william.tobin31 at verizon.net


Thanks,

Marty Sukey
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Fri Jul  1 11:05:45 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 13:05:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
Message-ID: <wyv5xxrqywm3f4vwu402jvxw.1309539945860@email.android.com>

Jim Norlin <norlinengineering at comcast.net> wrote:

>Second and welcome Bob & Becky - They are great folks and there is a TR6 
>involved.  They are getting married next weekend at the Portland 
>Historic Races.
>
>On 7/1/2011 5:38 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>>   Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
>> into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.
>>
>> Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others
>>
>> bob at nwspeedshots.com
>>
>> Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.
>>
>> I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY
>>
>> I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.
>>
>> Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Jul  1 20:25:10 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
Message-ID: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!! Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Fri Jul  1 20:59:41 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:59:41 -0700
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <4E0E899D.60705@comcast.net>

I don't know about the arc grinding.  I expect if you found a shop 
that's been around for 50 years, they probably still have the 
capability.  I run Porterfield  shoes on the rear of my Spitfire.  Last 
summer, I was changing shoes (the day before the race naturally) and 
they wouldn't fit inside my drums.   Took a while to find a shop that 
could machine out the little things, but I finally did and was able to 
get them to work.  Ordered another set of new drums, so now I carry 2 
sets and should be able to field fit whatever I get sent.  Most often, I 
seem to find myself changing shoes at the track.

On 7/1/2011 7:25 PM, william r tobin wrote:
> Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
> weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
> Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
> nice race. Good luck at the race!
> I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
> I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!! Actually
> she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
> the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
> drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
> I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
> week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me
> a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
> rear linings.
> Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
> the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
> more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
> using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
> fit the drums?
> What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
> in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
> On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
> goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
> Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  1 22:02:01 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:02:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Saw Bob today at PNW Historics.  He stopped by our pits.  He said that he was
now part of FOT.  
Mike Mehl #46 TR4

From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: bob at nwspeedshots.com
Sent:
Friday, July 1, 2011 5:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH FOT NOMINATION
INCOMPLETE

Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated
and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for
VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are
scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on
TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please
welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sat Jul  2 03:07:42 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 11:07:42 +0200
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <000001cc3897$8360d440$8a227cc0$@com>

I use stock shoes from Lucas or any replacement type.
I have a set of racing Mintex shoes but never put them in so I don't know
how they would perform.
My rear cylinder are 1" of size.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von william r tobin
Gesendet: Samstag, 2. Juli 2011 04:25
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] I'm back

Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio
last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!!
Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend.
Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring
me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big
for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 04:52:05 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 06:52:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <8CE06BD376EAF9C-1798-3DD5D@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>

 Welcome back Bill,

I have always used stock rear shoes. Never tried anything else, but they seem
well suited for the job.

Will you be attending the PVGP?

Irv and I will be there be with our friends from WPTA and Tony Vigliotti.

Joe A.








-----Original Message-----
From: william r tobin <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 9:37 pm
Subject: [Fot] I'm back


Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio last
weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty.
Marty is taking his Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a
nice race. Good luck at the race!
I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard  if he is.
I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a girl!!!
Actually
she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time all weekend. Traded
the lead several times in the feature. Her husband (They're from Mesa AZ)
drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple.
I did have some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous
week for routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring
me
a new pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also
rear linings.
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too big for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake linings to
fit the drums?
What are you guys using for rear linings? Any thoughts? I'm taking the drums
in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get better lining contact.
On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup on and like all his
goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the balance though.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 05:01:23 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 07:01:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>

 Bob and Becky are a great addition to the FOT group.

Watch for a report on their wedding the 9th of July

Question of the Day?

When you get married at Portland International, which side of the Start/Finish
Line do you stand on?








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>; mark <mark at bradakis.com>; fot
<fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: bob <bob at nwspeedshots.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 1, 2011 11:02 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE



Saw Bob today at PNW Historics.  He stopped by our pits.  He said that he was
now part of FOT.
Mike Mehl #46 TR4




From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; fot at autox.team.net
Cc: bob at nwspeedshots.com
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2011 5:38 AM
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH FOT NOMINATION INCOMPLETE

Talked to Bob Pengraph (and Becky) at Laguna.  He was nominated and seconded
into the FOT but it got lost somewhere.

Bob is photographer for VICTORY LANE and others

bob at nwspeedshots.com

Bob and fiance Becky are scheduled to be married on the 9th.

I think their marriage is on TRACK.....LITERALLY

I think there is TRIUMPH involved here, too.

Please welcome Bob and Becky into the FOT.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Jul  2 07:12:07 2011
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2011 06:12:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>
	<1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>

On 7/2/11 4:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> Question of the Day?
>
> When you get married at Portland International, which side of the Start/Finish
> Line do you stand on?
>    
Maybe both?

"I now pronounce you husband and wife.  You may now cross the start 
line, receive the green flag and kiss the bride"


Teriann


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  2 08:20:38 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 10:20:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE
In-Reply-To: <4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>
References: <8CE0602F488903E-1DF0-5DC36@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com><1309579321.84251.YahooMailNeo@web46115.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><8CE06BE84091B16-1798-3E083@webmail-m099.sysops.aol.com>
	<4E0F1927.50309@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE06DA593FFA57-1A9C-1293A@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>

 Green Flag FOLLOWED by Checkered.










-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 2, 2011 8:23 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] BOB PENGRAPH   FOT NOMINATION   INCOMPLETE


On 7/2/11 4:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>
> Question of the Day?
>
> When you get married at Portland International, which side of the
Start/Finish
> Line do you stand on?
>
Maybe both?

"I now pronounce you husband and wife.  You may now cross the start
line, receive the green flag and kiss the bride"


Teriann
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From rikrock at live.com  Sat Jul  2 13:55:00 2011
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:55:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Message-ID: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 19:57:35 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 19:57:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>

Steve Yott makes the best with a custom made impeller.

Jim G. 



-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rich Rock
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 1:55 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 20:17:51 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 20:17:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines
Message-ID: <20110703022103.2E1DE18764C@autox.team.net>

FoT,

I have a little more play than I care for in my steering wheel. It comes
from the hub splines.

It's a new hub so wear isn't a factor. I had considered running a little tig
weld on the splines

and dress it down to fit snug.

Has anyone got any hot tips that don't require welding ?

 

Thanks as always,

 

Jim g


From budscars at comcast.net  Sat Jul  2 21:10:35 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 20:10:35 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines
References: <20110703022103.2E1DE18764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <84C9F2EB082D4A5FA54741DA1955C056@Bud>

Did you examine the shaft splines?
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2011 7:17 PM
Subject: [Fot] Tightening up quick release stering wheel splines


> FoT,
>
> I have a little more play than I care for in my steering wheel. It comes
> from the hub splines.
>
> It's a new hub so wear isn't a factor. I had considered running a little 
> tig
> weld on the splines
>
> and dress it down to fit snug.
>
> Has anyone got any hot tips that don't require welding ?
>
>
>
> Thanks as always,
>
>
>
> Jim g
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 22:45:32 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 00:45:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  I'm back (rear brake shoes)
Message-ID: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>

If you can not fit the shoes into the drum, and can not get a shop to arc  
them, file the metal ends of the shoes that fit into the adjuster and  
cylinder ends till the drums will fit with the required click or two of free  
play.  This is an emergency patch that I have used a number of times.   Check 
after the first session to see if the shoes have reasonable contact with  the 
drum. 
 Is anything bent or not aligned?
 
TR Regards,
Hardy
 

Date:  Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
From: "william r tobin"  <william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] I'm  back
<snip>
Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too  big 
for
the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out  .060 or
more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm  also
using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake  linings 
to
fit the drums?
<snip>.
Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L.  Racing


From garygret at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  2 23:18:21 2011
From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider)
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 22:18:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
References: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1309670301.59590.YahooMailRC@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greg Solow at The Engine Room makes a massively improved re-engineered oil pump, 
eliminates all the weak spots. Been using it for 3 race seasons.
Regards,
Gary Schneider
EP TR4 




________________________________
From: Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, July 2, 2011 2:55:00 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 23:33:21 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 01:33:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Colortune spark plugs
Message-ID: <1064.40dae6b7.3b415921@aol.com>

I first tried the colortune after the then "The Autocar" had a  positive 
test of it in the early 70s.
For a street car with SUs (or Stroms) it is great, because a  production 
car with SUs has the proper mixture set at idle, and the properly  maintained 
carb deals with the rest.  I have used it to help tune (the  carbs are the 
last thing to adjust) a few hundred cars.  My  1967 tow  car would make the 
Calif emission testers look on in wonder with the 3 SUs  purring away with 
very low emissions, and it still purrs at 257,000  miles. You can see a 
fraction of a SU "flat" adjustment.  Applied  physics. 
 The instructions make it clear that it is not to be used at high  
RPM/load.   NFI
 
Hardy
 
From:  sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
To:  fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Colortune spark plugs

Is anybody  using Colortune spark plugs to any advantage?  Jim in Folsom,  
CA


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sat Jul  2 23:40:48 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 01:40:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Freeing stuck pistons
Message-ID: <1139.5a6000de.3b415ae0@aol.com>

I always enjoyed the story that the Knock Off Hammer was for the wire  
wheels!
 
Been there, Hammered That,
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2011 7:06:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  Kas Kastner <kaskas at cox.net>
To: billb <billb at bnj.com>;  kenandtweety <kenandtweety at yahoo.com>
Cc: fot  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 29, 2011 7:23 pm
Subject: Re:  [Fot] Freeing stuck pistons


It is just amazing how much you can  move with a BIG hammer and a short 
block
of wood if you don't have that  press handy. You buy the biggest hammer you
can
find and after thos job  you'll still have the hammer for furture work on  
fine
equipment.


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 00:37:28 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2011 23:37:28 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  I'm back (rear brake shoes)
In-Reply-To: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>
References: <9c6.e2c3f0f.3b414dec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E100E28.8090004@comcast.net>

I was thinking about doing this when that last set of shoes wouldn't 
fit.  Glad to hear it works in a pinch.

On 7/2/2011 9:45 PM, Catpusher at aol.com wrote:
> If you can not fit the shoes into the drum, and can not get a shop to arc
> them, file the metal ends of the shoes that fit into the adjuster and
> cylinder ends till the drums will fit with the required click or two of free
> play.  This is an emergency patch that I have used a number of times.   Check
> after the first session to see if the shoes have reasonable contact with  the
> drum.
>   Is anything bent or not aligned?
>
> TR Regards,
> Hardy
>
>
> Date:  Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:25:10 -0700
> From: "william r tobin"<william.tobin31 at verizon.net>
> To:<fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Fot] I'm  back
> <snip>
> Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem too  big
> for
> the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic out  .060 or
> more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them. I'm  also
> using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake  linings
> to
> fit the drums?
> <snip>.
> Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L.  Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 03:45:28 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 04:45:28 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
In-Reply-To: <20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>
References: <snt0-eas1433A25328A77FD5A5280C1C65A0@phx.gbl>
	<20110703020047.8DDB9187668@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyh-Hdu_y_2Gfbtb-P-iY1Bvg_k1c4DR_keq-J4=TR+XUA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Jul 2, 2011 at 8:57 PM, Jim Gray <toodamnfunky at comcast.net> wrote:

> Steve Yott makes the best with a custom made impeller.
>


Steve currently is out of oil pumps is not likely to make up anymore.


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Sun Jul  3 07:44:51 2011
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:44:51 -0600
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>

From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 Timing
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:11:13 -0600





Good morning group, I just rebuilt my engine on my '69 Kmart TR6 (that means
it's safe to drive this one to Kmart) otherwise known as "Rusty".  I glanced
at the timing specs and set it at the 4 degrees at 800 of thereabouts.  I
broke in the cam and then, after plugging various oil leaks took her for a
spin.  The car felt fair but not as good as I would like so I came home and
put her to bed.  Most of the original vacuum set up is there, although not
properly hooked up.  I checked the timing yesterday and only one vacuum line
was hooked up.  Apparently this is the retard unit hooked up to a port
directly in front of the "5" stamped in the top of the carburetor.  This set
up hauls the advance backward at a progressively higher rate as you increase
rpms, ie 8-10 degrees at full advance.  The advance side of the distributor is
not hooked up.  I unplugged everything and set the timing at 30 degrees full
advance, but havent driven around the block.  There is another vacuum leak
every time I look at the thing. I lay all the blame for this directly at the
feet of the PREVIOUS OWNER.  I would also like to direct some blame to the BL
exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.

Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM


>
> Gary,
> The 69 TR6 has a little more complex distributor than what you're
> describing. It had a vacuum advance and a vacuum retard on the distributor
> and a system that operated the vacuum retard attached to the carbs. It also
> makes a difference where you connect your vacuum pipes. Some carbs have 2
> places to connect for vacuum. I've attached a page from The Roadster Factory
> blue book showing the vacuum pipes etc.
> I guess what I'm trying to tell you is if you don't have this system, which
> you probably don't because everyone took it off, you have to use a later
> spec to set the timing of your car. The later spec I believe used a quite
> different way of timing. Anyway, you need to understand which distributor
> you have and vacuum system and set the timing accordingly. Hope this helps.
> http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/51.php


From patrickmannion1 at netzero.net  Sun Jul  3 11:29:04 2011
From: patrickmannion1 at netzero.net (patrickmannion1 at netzero.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 17:29:04 GMT
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Message-ID: <20110703.102904.8675.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

We have seen the pin on the driven oil pump shaft on gears supplied by Moss
Motors come out and jam the oil pump gears causing failure, Greg Solow (Engine
Room Santa Cruz, CA 831 429-1800) has oil pump gears that the "pin" is
replaced with a threaded grub screw and the driven ear of the oil pump gear is
radiused to avoid the risk of the ear being a stress riser.
all the best,
Pat Mannion
Santa Cruz CA

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] TR-4 Oil Pump?
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2011 15:55:00 -0400

Amici

Need a new oil pump for a race motor.  Are there any GOOD  ones on the
market these days?

Thanks!

Rich Rock
_______________________________________________
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  3 11:35:27 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 10:35:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>

> I would also like to direct some 
> blame to the BL
> exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.

Actually, I believe the vacuum retard was a US requirement.  Possibly you
could blame BL for trying to keep the vacuum advance, but since it does
improve things, that part seems like a good idea.

And BL was certainly not the only company to use "dueling" modules.  My 1970
Audi had exactly the same setup and still made almost 1 hp/ci.

As you've no doubt realized by now, the port on top of the carb is for the
vacuum advance.  The retard port (if you have one) is on the bottom.  And
there is a difference.

-- Randall  


From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Jul  3 12:58:56 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 18:58:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	, <A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>, ,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>,
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>,
	<009801cc39a7$9997dd10$0301a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W497E250770EC21469004ACDF5D0@phx.gbl>

To kind of set the record straight, B/L had one hell'va time (along with
everyone else) trying to meet the emission requirement from 1967 onward. Then,
on top of that, the DOT crash requirement.  So much so that  the money set
aside or budgeted for upgrading design and new models went into that research
file.  Too bad. I was part of the chase on the engine side and it was just
terrible the cost and effort at the time. Emission control was the very first
thing on everyone's agenda. Use of the modern electronic injection,  ignition
and catalytic converters would have solved it then, just as it has in the
present cars.
Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 10:35:27 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
>
> > I would also like to direct some
> > blame to the BL
> > exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.
>
> Actually, I believe the vacuum retard was a US requirement.  Possibly you
> could blame BL for trying to keep the vacuum advance, but since it does
> improve things, that part seems like a good idea.
>
> And BL was certainly not the only company to use "dueling" modules.  My
1970
> Audi had exactly the same setup and still made almost 1 hp/ci.
>
> As you've no doubt realized by now, the port on top of the carb is for the
> vacuum advance.  The retard port (if you have one) is on the bottom.  And
> there is a difference.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From gaf3 at charter.net  Sun Jul  3 13:28:46 2011
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Sun, 03 Jul 2011 15:28:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] FW:  TR6 Timing
In-Reply-To: <SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
References: <545731679.315592.1309321610714.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
	<A2C8309735D347948BA42A650FA16072@Charly>,
	<SNT134-w19059817DD93550E5A33A2905D0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT134-w54CB78B04C2A0B6514166F905D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E10C2EE.7040403@charter.net>

Henry
I just went through the same process on a later model 1974 with a retard 
mechanism and a 1970 with dualing advance mechansisms.
I set the basic timing to 12deg BTDC, left the retard diaphragm without 
a vacuum line.  On the later model I left the only diaphragm (retard) 
unplugged to vacuum.
Depending on your setup, I had triple Strombergs and dual downdraft Webers,
the only required vacuum is for the advance if available, Booster, and 
Crankcase ventilation.
Performance should be good with that setup..
Good luck
Glenn
On 7/3/2011 9:44 AM, Henry Morrison wrote:
> From: dos_gusanos at msn.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 Timing
> Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 07:11:13 -0600
>
>
>
>
>
> Good morning group, I just rebuilt my engine on my '69 Kmart TR6 (that means
> it's safe to drive this one to Kmart) otherwise known as "Rusty".  I glanced
> at the timing specs and set it at the 4 degrees at 800 of thereabouts.  I
> broke in the cam and then, after plugging various oil leaks took her for a
> spin.  The car felt fair but not as good as I would like so I came home and
> put her to bed.  Most of the original vacuum set up is there, although not
> properly hooked up.  I checked the timing yesterday and only one vacuum line
> was hooked up.  Apparently this is the retard unit hooked up to a port
> directly in front of the "5" stamped in the top of the carburetor.  This set
> up hauls the advance backward at a progressively higher rate as you increase
> rpms, ie 8-10 degrees at full advance.  The advance side of the distributor is
> not hooked up.  I unplugged everything and set the timing at 30 degrees full
> advance, but havent driven around the block.  There is another vacuum leak
> every time I look at the thing. I lay all the blame for this directly at the
> feet of the PREVIOUS OWNER.  I would also like to direct some blame to the BL
> exec who thought up this dueling distributor idea.
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM


From budscars at comcast.net  Sun Jul  3 13:35:07 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 12:35:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>

Amazing 3D printer
RB

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul  3 14:10:16 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 16:10:16 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <15cb5.9e31314.3b4226a8@aol.com>

That's not really new anymore but it is still expensive.  The actual  
printer is (was) only about $1500 but the buildup material is very  expensive.  
Turns out it's a gypsum mix sold by my previous employer.
 
At a trade show about five years ago they built us a pill bottle with a  
helix body  AND the screw on cap in about twenty minutes.  I think my  partner 
across town still has it....
 
 
In a message dated 7/3/2011 12:59:56 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
budscars at comcast.net writes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  3 14:13:48 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 13:13:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
In-Reply-To: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>
References: <E5CDC2DA745D49208E24391F0CB629FA@Bud>
Message-ID: <00b401cc39bd$b865c020$0301a8c0@randall>

> Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things), how they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid up for over 20 years because no one could find a
water pump, and Jay's people just printed one.

-- Randall  


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Sun Jul  3 14:51:30 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 16:51:30 EDT
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
Message-ID: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>

So they've reached the stage of metal deposition?  See what happens  when 
you turn your back for five years? ;-))
 
 
In a message dated 7/3/2011 1:50:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

>  Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
>  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this  month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things),  how they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid  up for over 20 years because no one could find 
a
water pump, and Jay's  people just printed one.

-- Randall   
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul  3 20:05:31 2011
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2011 19:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] MAKE YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?
In-Reply-To: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>
References: <e064c.152e215a.3b423052@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1309745131.70076.YahooMailRC@web80802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Actually, the metal systems have been around for about 10 years. I've
been
involved with this technology since 1987. We use ABS and an
acrylic resin in
the two systems that I run. (Total of 4 machines).
My company has systems that
allow us to make sand castings
for engines and components as well as other
uses. I can't talk about
the other uses. There are service bureaus that will
make any parts
that you can design. You can also use 3D imaging devices to
capture
out of production designs. This is what Leno's Garage did a couple of
years ago to recreate a piece of unobtanium for one of his early engines.
See:
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/nextengines_3d_scanner/944641

Jaguar has
used Additive Manufactured parts on some of their production
vehicles as the
parts weren't available from the supplier. Great for low
production vehicles.
You can also see an AM bodied vehicle if you search
on Urbee. I have some
photos that I took at our annual conference in
Minneapolis if anyone would
like to see them.

Doug



----- Original Message ----
From:
"Gt6steve at aol.com" <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: TR3driver at ca.rr.com;
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, July 3, 2011 4:51:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] MAKE
YOUR OWN TRIUMPH PARTS?

So they've reached the stage of metal deposition? 
See what happens  when 
you turn your back for five years? ;-))


In a message
dated 7/3/2011 1:50:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com
writes:

>  Amazing 3D printer
> RB
> 
> 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

There is an article in this 
month's Skinned Knuckles where Jay Leno talks
about (among other things),  how
they "printed" a water pump for a 1914
Premiere.  The car was laid  up for
over 20 years because no one could find 
a
water pump, and Jay's  people just
printed one.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Jul  4 14:27:02 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 13:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
Message-ID: <1309811222.88810.YahooMailRC@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

What is the best method to time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a Crane
ignition module?  I am using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected.  The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone 
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Mon Jul  4 16:15:20 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 16:15:20 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <1309811222.88810.YahooMailRC@web180603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110704221838.6C0AC187663@autox.team.net>

Your altitude and cam have everything to do with timing.
What altitude do you drive and what kind/spec of cam ?

Jim G.


-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of sherry robyn
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 2:27 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

What is the best method to time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a
Crane
ignition module?  I am using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected.  The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone 
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Mon Jul  4 20:17:53 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2011 19:17:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition
Message-ID: <1309832273.24258.YahooMailRC@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Jim, sea level is my altitude and my cam is stock.  Jim
To:
sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>; fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, July 4,
2011 3:15:20 PM
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

Your
altitude and cam have everything to do with timing.
What altitude do you drive
and what kind/spec of cam ?

Jim G.


-----Original Message-----
From:
fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of
sherry robyn
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 2:27 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] TR6 timing with electronic ignition

What is the best method to
time a 74 TR6 with a Pertronix ignitor and a
Crane
ignition module?  I am
using the stock distributor with both retard and
advance 
lines disconnected. 
The car has triple Webers and headers with a
stock cam and 
the car is not
used on the street.  I have been told that with
the Webers, I 
will need to
time it a little more advanced to get the benefit
of the carbs.

I had thought
to start by using a vacuum guage to set the idle
timing and then a 
timing
light to see what it is doing at, say, 3000 and/or
4000 rpm.  Does anyone
have any ideas on what degrees of advance I should
shoot for at the higher
rpm?

Thanks, Jim in Folsom, CA
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Jul  5 07:54:46 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 09:54:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] I'm back
In-Reply-To: <5CB3BE33EB1B4FA498F90BA738A5D9E1@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <4013B7ECFD0C40A4862270EF95F10E5D@gdhs.local>

Carbo-Tech....Charlotte/Concord......great linings and pads......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

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addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of william r tobin
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 10:25 PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] I'm back


Hi everyone, I'm finally back on the list. I saw Marty Sukey at Mid Ohio
last weekend and he helped me get back on. Thanks Marty. Marty is taking his
Spit to BeaveRun in two weeks for the PVGP event. It's a nice race. Good
luck at the race! I tried to talk Dick Stockton into going but haven't heard
if he is. I had a blast at Mid Ohio; I beat a PORSCHE! 912. Driven by a
girl!!! Actually she was paddpocked across from me and we had a great time
all weekend. Traded the lead several times in the feature. Her husband
(They're from Mesa AZ) drives a very nice 914-6. Nice couple. I did have
some brake issues. I put two new wheel clyinders on the previous week for
routine maintenance. One started leaking Friday. I had Ted S bring me a new
pair (I use 0.875" units from a Morgan) and replaced the leaker. Also rear
linings. Any time I've put on linings, it's been a fight. They always seem
too big for the drums, which also seem oversized. Supposed to be 9" but mic
out .060 or more over. I'm using Kevlar rear shoes and I'm not sold on them.
I'm also using finned alloy rear drums. Do they still arc-grind drum brake
linings to fit the drums? What are you guys using for rear linings? Any
thoughts? I'm taking the drums in for a light cut tomorrow to try and get
better lining contact. On the plus side, I put RIchard Good's dual M/C setup
on and like all his goodies it's gorgeous. I'm still playing with the
balance though. Thanks, Bill Tobin  D.A.L. Racing
_______________________________________________
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Jul  5 19:00:37 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 21:00:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] ALBUQUERQUE, NM
Message-ID: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>

 Anything going on in  NM the next several days?

I have some business there that could be enhanced by automotive or aircraft
museums or activities.

Any suggestions? Equal parts of entertainment help validate my retirement.

JOE A.


From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  5 21:37:59 2011
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (Steven Groh)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 23:37:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] ALBUQUERQUE, NM
In-Reply-To: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE098F40826D95-13B4-4E3D9@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DA729CEA-BF26-40CB-A71B-230DAF797330@comcast.net>

Visit the Unser Museum in ABQ!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2011, at 9:00 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:

> Anything going on in  NM the next several days?
> 
> I have some business there that could be enhanced by automotive or aircraft
> museums or activities.
> 
> Any suggestions? Equal parts of entertainment help validate my retirement.
> 
> JOE A.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sgroh1 at comcast.net


From patrickmannion1 at netzero.net  Tue Jul  5 22:59:39 2011
From: patrickmannion1 at netzero.net (patrickmannion1 at netzero.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 04:59:39 GMT
Subject: [Fot] repeat 1500 Spitfire Head Gasket problems
Message-ID: <20110705.215939.12058.0@webmail19.vgs.untd.com>

Good evening,
I have a car that is getting the better of me.First engine had extensive work
done to it but machine shop installed a cylinder liner poorly resulting in
premature head gasket failure at the sealing surface between number 3 and 4
cylinder. Had to start again with a new block.

New engine was all gone though and re-bored (used oversize County pistons),
Payen head gasket (with correct sealing ring built into head gasket) and ARP
hardware. This "new engine" blew head gasket again with under 500 miles on
engine.

Engine did not over heat (has newly re-cored radiator, new thermostat and new
water pump), ignition timing is only 30 degrees total advance, premium gas,
9.5:1 compression, roller rockers, improved cam, ect......  Removed head, its
flat, block is flat. Head gasket is blown out right between cylinders 3 and 4
and just starting to go between cylinders 1 and 2. Recess in block is a
uniform .027" below the deck of the block on all four cylinder recesses.
Engine originally called for 46 ft/lb torque for head studs, I figured with
good ARP head bolts and nuts I could torque to 52 ft/lb cold with oil on the
threads. Measuring old fire ring crush surface versus new gasket it appeared
to crush about .010".

One posting I saw out of England was someone had used a set of .030" or .040"
pistons that had not been radiused and the edges of the piston crown ended up
touching the head gasket sealing ring causing it to fail head gaskets
prematurely. Another posting regarding repeat  1500 head gasket failure
suggested decking the block and bringing the recess down to .015" below the
deck of the block, others say remove the recess all together.

Has anyone experienced this before? My key question is what should be the
proper recess below the block? What would anyone suggest as head torque (cold
or hot and what lubricant to be used with hardware)?
thanks for your time,
Pat Mannion
Santa Cruz CA
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jul  7 08:49:42 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 10:49:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

So I took the bait and ordered a Denso racing alternator from DB 
Electrical. Nice unit. Mounting it was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 
being impossible. Easy, peasey.

So, here's my question: the alternator is supposed to be 
"self-exciting". Once you get to 3000 rpm, the thing should turn on. I was 
expecting to see the system voltage jump up a bit to 13-ish when the 
alternator turned on, but that is not the case. I get ROCK STEADY 12.06 
volts from when I start the car 'till I shut it off.

Can anyone else whoe's done the conversion comment on the operation of 
this setup?

Maybe I should be looking to use one of the other spade lugs on 
the alternator to get the thing to turn on?

Alternately confused,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Thu Jul  7 10:00:56 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 12:00:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <54E4E7C8161C4FB4AC18E280E2E09E23@gdhs.local>

Robert:   I have the same unit and it pumps out 14 from the moment I start
the car......this said, it is a race car and the output simply goes straight
to the hot side of the cut-off switch......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 10:50 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator


Hi,

So I took the bait and ordered a Denso racing alternator from DB
Electrical. Nice unit. Mounting it was a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10
being impossible. Easy, peasey.

So, here's my question: the alternator is supposed to be
"self-exciting". Once you get to 3000 rpm, the thing should turn on. I was
expecting to see the system voltage jump up a bit to 13-ish when the
alternator turned on, but that is not the case. I get ROCK STEADY 12.06
volts from when I start the car 'till I shut it off.

Can anyone else whoe's done the conversion comment on the operation of
this setup?

Maybe I should be looking to use one of the other spade lugs on
the alternator to get the thing to turn on?

Alternately confused,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jul  7 12:06:01 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:06:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one I 
have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a big lug 
on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO spade lugs on 
the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in lamp connections - not 
sure on that.

But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and worst 
case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  7 13:43:21 2011
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:43:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>,
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY150-w16DC3C0765BB1EB81C4F54B9410@phx.gbl>

Robert-

I just hooked up a 3 wire denso alternator on my 3A engine - you hook one
terminal to a switched power source, the other hooked into the ignition light.
Here's a good website link showing the hookup:
http://westfield-world.com/daihatsu_alternator.html

Randy



> Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 14:06:01 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: sjanzen at me.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
>
> Hi,
>
> The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one I
> have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a big lug
> on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO spade lugs on
> the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in lamp connections - not
> sure on that.
>
> But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and worst
> case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.
>
> regards,
> rml


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Thu Jul  7 17:40:19 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 17:40:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Is anybody else getting this ? Mailing list removal
 confirmation notice for mailing list Fot
Message-ID: <20110707234335.C63EE187652@autox.team.net>

Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list Fot

 

We have received a request from 71.39.52.61 for the removal of your email
address, "toodamnfunky at comcast.net" from the fot at autox.team.net mailing
list.  To confirm that you want to be removed from this mailing list, simply
reply to this message, keeping the Subject:

header intact.  Or visit this web page:

 

I have received this notification twice but did not request it.

Is anyone else getting this ?

 

Jim Gray


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Thu Jul  7 18:44:23 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 20:44:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Flag Deadline is Approaching!
Message-ID: <F969B68B-8AA5-46F4-BA91-D8BBBA4496C9@aol.com>

Amici,

Order your flag Soon!  


Details
2x3foot size
Logo is about 16 inches high
2 grommets
Indoor outdoor use
Material is great quality
I have a proof picture if your interested in seeing it.

I made the decision to go single sided. This means the words will be
reversed on the back.

Price is $15 each. Shipping is included.

Deadline to order is august 8, 2011.  I will place the order then and they
should be sent out to you by mid September.

Payments to paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or check to
Chris Bock
3630 Italia Ave
Vineland, NJ
08361

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322


From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Jul  7 20:32:18 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2011 21:32:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071042370.30629@isis.mit.edu>
	<86A37140-E222-4087-BA81-2EF14BAFD383@me.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107071358570.1797@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <20110708023242.A83A9187652@autox.team.net>

If it's like the GM alternator with two spade lugs showing, one of 
them needs to be connected to hot in order to turn it into a "one 
wire" alternator.

- Tony

At 01:06 PM 7/7/2011, Robert M. Lang wrote:
>Hi,
>
>The Denso alternator that several responses refer to is NOT the one 
>I have. DB Electrical sells a Denso Chevy Mini alternator. It has a 
>big lug on the side which is clearly the output, but there are TWO 
>spade lugs on the rear of the unit which are proably the sense in 
>lamp connections - not sure on that.
>
>But based on the responses so far, I'll def check the ground and 
>worst case - I'll pull the unit and test it under load at the local Auto Zone.
>
>regards,
>rml
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 11:07:22 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 17:07:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Source  for TR4 crank plugs
Message-ID: <1519738514.294695.1310144842294.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Does anyone know where to buy TR4 crank plugs ? 

Thanks 



jimg 


From barry at penybryn.ca  Fri Jul  8 12:42:05 2011
From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 12:42:05 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
Message-ID: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash. 

This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
that I would seek additional expert advice.

So my question to the group is:

Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
the problem?

 

Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
question was put directly to them.

 

As always thanks for any help/advice provided.

 

Barry. 


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Fri Jul  8 13:49:00 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:49:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <1248003924.300545.1310154540223.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Fred Hodgeson installed mine and he didn't mention any problems.

I have the IRS diff. though with the 4.11 gears.



jimB  g



----- Original Message -----


From: "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2011 12:42:05 PM
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation B B B B B B B B Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.

This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
that I would seek additional expert advice.

So my question to the group is:

Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
the problem?

B 

Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
question was put directly to them.

B 

As always thanks for any help/advice provided.

B 

Barry.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From riverside at southslope.net  Fri Jul  8 15:46:40 2011
From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 16:46:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul  8 16:06:21 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 00:06:21 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
References: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <000e01cc3dbb$47687af0$d63970d0$@com>

response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
face."

Total rubbish! 
Would never fit with a 3.7 gear set.

Wrong made item, return it I would suggest or machine the diff housing.

Cheers
Chris


From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 16:42:17 2011
From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob Davis)
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2011 18:42:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation 	Issues TR3
In-Reply-To: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
References: <000401cc3d9e$be2821d0$3a786570$@ca>
Message-ID: <4E1787C9.5090904@cfl.rr.com>

On 7/8/11 2:42 PM, Barry Munson wrote:
> Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
> gear set and a complete set of new bearings for installation in a Southwick
> conversion TR3 differential housing. In what should have been a relatively
> simple installation process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put with
> the pinion installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims moved
> to one side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.
>
> This has been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
> times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
> Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
> tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
> received the following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
> 3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown wheel
> face."
>
> While this seems odd to me as the 4.11 ratio was a factory option I thought
> that I would seek additional expert advice.
My Quaife with new 4:11 gears and bearings fits the TR3 Southwick 
convers just fine. You must have something else going on.

Bon
> So my question to the group is:
>
> Has anyone experienced any difficulties installing a Quaife and a 4.11 gear
> set in a TR 3 or 4 differential housing ( I'm assuming that the Southwick
> conversion will have no bearing on this issue) and, if so, how did you solve
> the problem?
>
>
>
> Additionally, if machining the crown wheel face is the solution then how do
> you determine how much to machine it - Quaife have been silent even when the
> question was put directly to them.
>
>
>
> As always thanks for any help/advice provided.
>
>
>
> Barry.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 17:03:33 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:03:33 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <24c70.2dab9532.3b48e6c5@aol.com>

Call Joe Siam at Chequred Flag racing to get the Harland Sharps.   Don't 
waste a penny on anything else especially the Titans from the UK.   When I 
damaged one they had ZERO interest in helping me and the US rep had to  jump 
thru extraordianry hoops to get one.  Kudoes to him but those  manufacturers 
are welcome to keep their junk.  I'd go on about the sloppy  oiling but I'm 
told they've fixed that.
 
Steve
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 4:00:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
riverside at southslope.net writes:

Who  sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de  armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 17:04:07 2011
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:04:07 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>

Contact Richard Good in PA. Top Shelf stuff! His parts look like art work.
They have two different ratios; 1.55:1 and 1.65:1. If you already have a hot
cam you may want to go with the 1.55 option. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:47 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From chasgee at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 18:04:08 2011
From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 20:04:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
his products.

Chuck Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
art de armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Jul  8 19:11:56 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 21:11:56 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<001201cc3dc3$57586670$06093350$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <224d6945-0f7e-4dcc-898d-341686083f68@blur>

Or, contact us. Better design rockers and lower cost. Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Spitfire Racing <Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com>
To: riverside at southslope.net, 'FOT' <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 23:04:07 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Contact Richard Good in PA. Top Shelf stuff! His parts look like art work.
They have two different ratios; 1.55:1 and 1.65:1. If you already have a hot
cam you may want to go with the 1.55 option. 

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of riverside at southslope.net
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:47 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?

art de armond
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From Gt6steve at aol.com  Fri Jul  8 20:05:49 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 22:05:49 EDT
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
Message-ID: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>

When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU  
manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care about  
"the lesser" Triumphs.
 
I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but  
to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chasgee at aol.com writes:

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands  
behind
his products.

Chuck  Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
art de  armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From klynch_6 at msn.com  Fri Jul  8 23:16:17 2011
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 23:16:17 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Quaife issues..?
Message-ID: <BLU151-ds201A1E193867FB71F1182FB7430@phx.gbl>

Fred Hodgson may have forgotten some ring gear bolt issues?
I'll let him speak for hid 'Great-Self'..!  Quaife aint the Saints you might
think... is all I'm sayin' mate !

#6 GT-6
RMVR


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sat Jul  9 03:26:35 2011
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 19:26:35 +1000
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b3g2yzyAMq3q1J0x1tuLpAoa7Rdk6pkn+5Tvew8emeN+w@mail.gmail.com>

if have fitted 3.45 , 3.7, 4.1 & 4.5 ring & pinions to stock hemispheres
over the years and I dont ever recall this problem.

I cant see why the Quaiffe hemisphere would only suit one ratio as the ring
gear thickness changes to compensate for various ratios.

as far as i know,  the factory used the same hemisphere on the various
ratios. the only commonly found problem is the width of the cental pin in
plate type LSD's like Salisbury. These seem to have been made for the live
axle cars, so when fitted to a IRS, the stub axles have to be shortened.

i also suggest you have bought a dud
Terry


From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com  Sat Jul  9 05:00:21 2011
From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 07:00:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cc3e27$65ef4cd0$31cde670$@rr.com>

Well, I doubt he told you in that manner, but do keep in mind there are
tooling costs which are pretty high on any new product. If there's no market
for a considerable number of pieces it makes no sense from a business
standpoint regardless of the small handful who are disappointed. Actually
his manifolds were designed for triple Zenith-Stromburgs and not SUs. It's
only due to a few folks mounting up SUs on applications in TR-250/TR-6
successfully the perception came about they were "designed" for SUs. Realize
the dimensional differences between the two carbs. Space is tight in a GT-6
which is why the manifolds must drop. If there's clearance for a Stromburg,
there may not be for an SU setup with its higher domes. 
In the past I have had him make some custom pushrods for us and he did a
perfect job and quickly too. I have worked on a number of cars that have his
products in them and to the best of my awareness, there have been no
failures or complaints. He's not running a hobby, it's a business with high
levels of customer satisfaction and customer service. I might also add he
competes in a Triumph also.

Russ Moore 
Spitfire #49
Twin Pine Restoration

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Gt6steve at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:06 PM
To: Gt6steve at aol.com; chasgee at aol.com
Cc: FOT at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU  
manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care
about  
"the lesser" Triumphs.
 
I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but  
to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
chasgee at aol.com writes:

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands  
behind
his products.

Chuck  Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
art de  armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 06:12:41 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 08:12:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>

 ART,

you may want to discuss what the engine will be expected to do.

and what the customer expects.

Harland-Sharp is a high volume producer of attractive looking rockers.

GoodParts adds features and benefits to a purpose designed assembly.

APT in Riverside may be able to shed light on what they do for various states
of tune, as they are a builder of 'small block' engines, as well as a supplier
of parts.

I have no direct experience with roller rockers, but it seems like a good
topic of discussion for the FOT. I'd like to learn more.

I know that at least one FOT became convinced that his after market rocker had
some geometry problems and set them aside.  (USED ON TR3/4 ENGINES) However,
there is usually more to the story.

Good question, Art.










-----Original Message-----
From: chasgee <chasgee at aol.com>
To: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10

available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
his products.

Chuck Gee





-----Original Message-----
From: riverside <riverside at southslope.net>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
art de armond
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Jul  9 07:00:17 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:00:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] GoodParts
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU160-w186B6658CD85C24D083400BA430@phx.gbl>

Wow, I've known Richard for a couple of decades and that would be TOTALLY out
of character for him, but I was not there. Richard started his business
specializing in the TR6 line and that is probably what he was still tooled up
for back then. He is doing some other Triumph parts but they are not listed on
his website so it would not hurt to call.  I concur with Chuck, his quality is
top notch.  My only problem with Richard is he always beats me autoxing :)
Marty
 > From: Gt6steve at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 22:05:49 -0400
> To: Gt6steve at aol.com; chasgee at aol.com
> CC: FOT at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care
about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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>
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>
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul  9 07:04:17 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:04:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E683E02CF1E94372B201130A62D94F85@userb38463fba5>

Steve and others. This is not the Richard Good that I know. You've gone a 
bit far in your condemnation of one of the really good (no pun intended) 
guys in our hobby. I've had personal experience with Richard as he developed 
a part for a TR4A. He's humble and unassuming and goes about his business in 
a very professional way. Yes he limited his products to the IRS cars and 
specifically the TR6's for the most part. Developing a cast manifold for the 
GT6 would be an expensive development that a small business has a hard time 
funding with no knowledge of potential sales. Perhaps if you'd fund the 
effort he would apply his excellent engineering skills to the development. 
Would you be willing to make that investment? If no then don't criticize him 
for the same conclusion.

I doubt very much that he would ever tell someone to F off as you stated. 
There must be more to this story.

By the way I really like GT6's especially when race prepared. I remember the 
Group 44 Glory Days seeing and hearing their GT6's at Mid-Ohio and Watkins 
Glen. There is a special sound of a 6 cylinder Triumph at full song.

JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: <Gt6steve at aol.com>; <chasgee at aol.com>
Cc: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care 
> about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> orums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerryvv at roadrunner.com


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Jul  9 09:20:12 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 11:20:12 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
	<8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E1871AC.4010603@bright.net>

Joe & List.  We sell only Harland Sharp and have for 20 years. Good 
product, tons of experience (they were the first ones to develop a 
roller rocker for small block Chev circa 1960) and great tech support. 
Rockers have a feature that oils both the rocker tip and the push rod 
cup. We supply these with bronze rocker shaft  bushings.  You will see 
roller rockers advertised with needle bearings for the rocker shaft.  
There are some issues with needle bearings.  #1- oil has a tendency to 
"fall out"of the needle bearings due to needle bearing design. This is 
fine if you are pulling rocker assembly for inspection regularly (as in 
every week-end). #2 - since the rocker arm rotates only a small distance 
around the rocker shaft, and needle bearings are very hard by design, 
this create the potential for severe shaft wear. Needle bearings are 
great for supporting a spinning shaft, such as internal gear box parts, 
but they ride in lubrication all the time and they are supporting the 
entire shaft, not just a small area of the shaft.  If you have an engine 
that lives at high revs, good size rocker shaft diameter, excellent 
oiling and checked often (smallblock Chevy sprint car engines, NASCAR, 
etc) needle bearings will work (but so does their budget for tear down 
and rebuild). Extremely high ratio rockers unless coupled with very low 
rate valve springs are death on the valve train  Ted


On 7/9/2011 8:12 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>   ART,
>
> you may want to discuss what the engine will be expected to do.
>
> and what the customer expects.
>
> Harland-Sharp is a high volume producer of attractive looking rockers.
>
> GoodParts adds features and benefits to a purpose designed assembly.
>
> APT in Riverside may be able to shed light on what they do for various states
> of tune, as they are a builder of 'small block' engines, as well as a supplier
> of parts.
>
> I have no direct experience with roller rockers, but it seems like a good
> topic of discussion for the FOT. I'd like to learn more.
>
> I know that at least one FOT became convinced that his after market rocker had
> some geometry problems and set them aside.  (USED ON TR3/4 ENGINES) However,
> there is usually more to the story.
>
> Good question, Art.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: chasgee<chasgee at aol.com>
> To: riverside<riverside at southslope.net>; fot<fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 8:30 pm
> Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside<riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT<fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
> art de armond
> ______________________________________________
> ot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net
>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jul  9 13:05:59 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 15:05:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] HARLAND SHARP   1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <8CE0C754F8F4AFA-10A8-12963@webmail-d013.sysops.aol.com>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC><8CE0BE2DB810D55-45BC-10510@webmail-d182.sysops.aol.com><8CE0C48A2CE1765-1960-FBF6@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com>
	<4E1871AC.4010603@bright.net>
	<8CE0C754F8F4AFA-10A8-12963@webmail-d013.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0C825F213511-1198-16ED6@webmail-d049.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: n197tr4 <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: tedtsimx <tedtsimx at bright.net>; fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 12:32 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


----Original Message-----



 WHAT TED SAID.   SEE BELOW MY NOTE.......................
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------

It would seem that Harland Sharp and a hardened rocker arm shaft would likely
satisfy most applications while being cost effective, as Ted says.

Harland Sharp has a comprehensive website....it also lists most of your
favorite distributors and most of the distributors have pricing so you can go
shopping on price.

I cant speak to geometry.

One FOT is very satisfied with his Harland Sharp and hardened shaft.... and
looked closely at the geometry. This is on a TR6.

Another FOT seemed concerned about the geometry for the TR3/TR4 from HS. He
was a mechanical engineer, but  it is only hearsay in either case.

Somebody else out there may have studied this in depth and has come to a
factual conclusion.

I'd be interested in more information. I have a set of Harland Sharps on the
shelf I have never used. Might be cool on the AMBRO or on my street TR3A.

ANYONE?

Joe A/



From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 9, 2011 11:48 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


Joe & List.  We sell only Harland Sharp and have for 20 years. Good
product, tons of experience (they were the first ones to develop a
roller rocker for small block Chev circa 1960) and great tech support.
Rockers have a feature that oils both the rocker tip and the push rod
cup. We supply these with bronze rocker shaft  bushings.  You will see
roller rockers advertised with needle bearings for the rocker shaft.
There are some issues with needle bearings.  #1- oil has a tendency to
"fall out"of the needle bearings due to needle bearing design. This is
fine if you are pulling rocker assembly for inspection regularly (as in
every week-end). #2 - since the rocker arm rotates only a small distance
around the rocker shaft, and needle bearings are very hard by design,
this create the potential for severe shaft wear. Needle bearings are
great for supporting a spinning shaft, such as internal gear box parts,
but they ride in lubrication all the time and they are supporting the
entire shaft, not just a small area of the shaft.  If you have an engine
that lives at high revs, good size rocker shaft diameter, excellent
oiling and checked often (smallblock Chevy sprint car engines, NASCAR,
etc) needle bearings will work (but so does their budget for tear down
and rebuild). Extremely high ratio rockers unless coupled with very low
rate valve springs are death on the valve train  Ted


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 10 10:19:18 2011
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 09:19:18 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Not Triumph Related: Here's an interesting U-joint type
 mechanical device from down under
References: <33FDF17C-DD84-45F3-BB8F-323F2458B08E@stevebelfer.com>
Message-ID: <94B1BA0D-3A56-42B6-9645-6E78AD4EBDA5@earthlink.net>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgQgm3GwaFs



~Steve


From Catpusher at aol.com  Sun Jul 10 20:37:23 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 22:37:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Quaife and 4.1 Installation     Issues TR3
Message-ID: <5aca8.1f91c8d1.3b4bbbe3@aol.com>

The only problem that I had with 2 Quaifes that I did for other  people was 
that the factory Hand Press collets could not get behind the  side brgs. to 
remove them.
Is the pinion Depth correct?
Who made the 4.1 R & P ?
Quaife problem as mentioned by others?
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2011 8:02:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation  Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife directly  from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new bearings for  installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential housing. In what  should have been a relatively
simple installation process has proved to be  one royal PITA. Simply put 
with
the pinion installed with the correct  preload, even with all the shims 
moved
to one side of the carrier there is  no way to get any backlash. 

This has been driving my installer crazy  as they have checked, several
times, all the dimensions, bearing and cage  heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage is 1.2 mm taller than the stock  cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line twice and sent a number of e-mails  requesting assistance and
received the following response: "I think that  our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio directly, the only option will be to  Machine the crown wheel
face."

<snip>

Barry.  


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 10 21:59:35 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 20:59:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Message-ID: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.
 
Mike Mehl #46
 
The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).
 
Thanks!!!!!!!


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 11 07:00:10 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:00:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
In-Reply-To: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE0DE199BA70B9-818-36794@webmail-m173.sysops.aol.com>

 we have original axle   #1 prototype.

never a problem with oil leaking or bearings.

let us know what you find out.

congratulations on three races with no major failures.

TR4 #197 is going well and we are looking forward to second race on this
engine.

Joe A.








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2011 11:42 pm
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)


My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.

Mike Mehl #46

The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).

Thanks!!!!!!!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 11 07:31:06 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:31:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers (fwd)
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107110929210.4826@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I spaced and sent this to a list member when I meant to send to the whil 
list. The question came up about "which issue of CMS", I I forget, but 
most likely a late 2010 or early 2011 edition.

l8r,
rml

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 09:58:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert M. Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers

Hi,

I might also point out that Classic Motorsports ran a great article on the 
various aspects of roller rockers. Lots of details and some dyno pulls to back 
up the conclusions. Def. worth the read.

I have them on my TR6 autocrosser (1.5:1) and the geometry seems to be correct 
and I have no odd issues.  I just took my time and measured / observed 
everything and I've had no issues. FWIW, I'm running a Isky Z19 cam with 
.410-ish lift.

Failure points in my past have been broken rockers (stock) and broken pedestals 
(stock). But the tubular pushrods and pedestals from Goodparts are ROCK SOLID 
and the H/S roller rockers (from Ted) work perfectly even after some wierd 
"cock-ups" on my part - like the time I left the adjuster screw loose and the 
pushrod popped out. That mishap dinged the rocker, but no craks or drama. I 
didn't even mess a session.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jaboruch at netzero.net  Mon Jul 11 07:53:28 2011
From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 13:53:28 GMT
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Message-ID: <20110711.095328.7393.1@webmail07.dca.untd.com>

Mike, there is an O-ring on the outer periphery of the bearing. The O-ring may
be cut and leaking or missing?  These are also sealed bearings.  You may have
had a seal failure, in which case you would need to replace the bearing.  This
is Moser part number 9507F.  Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mike Mehl <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: Triumph Friends of <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 20:59:35 -0700 (PDT)

My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.

Mike Mehl #46

The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
(not spun bearings).

Thanks!!!!!!!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net


____________________________________________________________
57 Year Old Mom Looks 27!
Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4e1b008f1c4293397cdst06duc


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 11 08:05:00 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 10:05:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Nippon Denso Alternator
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107110951490.4826@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I had some time to play with my alternator setup this weekend. Turns out 
that I have two lines coming from the dash, one is ignition, the other - 
I'M NOT SURE WHAT IT IS/WAS. In any case, with the proper wire on the 
alternator, I get 13.9-ish volts everywhere! YAEAH!

I need to trace the wires now, but I have a sinking feeling that my 
low-ish output from my Lucas ACR17 was a wiring problem and not an 
alternator problem. No worries, though - the new alternator weighs a 
couple pounds less and I can probably scrounge up a replacement at a NAPA 
if the thing ever dies unexpectedly.

In any case, I've moved this upgrade to "VERY WORTHWHILE" status.

DB Electrical - Chevy mini-alternator (40 amp output). Less than $80 to 
your house for a NEW alternator that works. Cheaper than a rebuild!

Gee, if I install the aluminum radiator and a braille battery in the next 
week or so, I might get my car closer to my class min weight for the 
SCCA Solo NEDivs... that'd be pretty kewl.

l8r,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Jul 11 08:56:50 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 09:56:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Southwick axle pushing out gear oil from Right Rear (TR4)
In-Reply-To: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310356775.93322.YahooMailNeo@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20110711145708.AD3EC18765A@autox.team.net>

You may have a defective sealed bearing.  Should be a standard part 
for a Ford 8" rear axle.

Tony

At 10:59 PM 7/10/2011, Mike Mehl wrote:
>My axle (just over a year and about 6 race hours old) is pushing oil out
>through end of the axle - right side.  The left rear is dry as a bone.  Has
>anyone else had this type of issue?  If so how did you fix it.
>
>Mike Mehl #46
>
>The good news is I have run the car three race weekend with normal problems
>(not spun bearings).
>
>Thanks!!!!!!!


From goodparts at verizon.net  Mon Jul 11 09:08:04 2011
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 11:08:04 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
In-Reply-To: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
References: <29078.33f5d769.3b49117d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <97DACC3BE98D4FC596F995314182AA47@AdminPC>

Steve,

I am very sorry that I offended you.  I do not recall the conversation but 
assume you were inquiring about a manifold for MK1 GT6 because I have been 
making triple manifolds for the later GT6's since 1996.

I started the business in 1993 while still holding a full time day job.  In 
2001 I took on a more demanding day job and with the side business growing 
rapidly, I was working many late nights and Saturdays to keep up with 
orders.  So in 2002 I was not in a position to take on any new development 
projects.  No prejudice against the smaller Triumphs.  Just no time to 
invest in the project.  My day job ended in mid 2009 and I have been in the 
parts business full time since then.  It is still growing and keeping me 
very busy.  I get lots of suggestions for new products but time for 
development is still limited and must be focused on projects with the most 
potential.

Regards,
Richard Good
Good Parts Inc.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gt6steve at aol.com>
To: <Gt6steve at aol.com>; <chasgee at aol.com>
Cc: <FOT at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> When I solicited Richard in 2002 to build me a set of his triple SU
> manifolds for the GT6 I was essentially told to F off as he didn't care 
> about
> "the lesser" Triumphs.
>
> I'm glad he's seen the economic potential and moved beyond that point but
> to this day I find it hard to get past that dismissal.  YMMV
>
>
> In a message dated 7/8/2011 6:30:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> chasgee at aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=10
>
> available  in two ratios.  Very high quality stuff and Richard stands
> behind
> his products.
>
> Chuck  Gee
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: riverside  <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: FOT  <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2011 4:00 pm
> Subject:  [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> Who sells a good quality roller rocker  setup?
> art de  armond
> ______________________________________________


From goodparts at verizon.net  Mon Jul 11 13:38:55 2011
From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 15:38:55 -0400
Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
In-Reply-To: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>
Message-ID: <51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>

Needle bearings are widely used and well proven in rockers.  I did a search 
some time ago and all the roller rocker manufacturers I could find were 
using needle bearings at the shaft and the better ones had needle bearings 
in the roller also.  Harland Sharp's web site lists roller rockers for a 
whole host of applications and from what I could find all, except those for 
use MG and Triumph, have needle bearings at the shaft.  I could not 
determine if they had needle bearings in the roller or not.  I assume they 
had to use bronze bushings in the MG and Triumph rockers because they do not 
make a shaft for those applications.  A good hard shaft of correct design is 
required for needle bearings.  Do not try to run them on a replacement 
original shaft, even if it has been nitrided.  It will not hold up.  The 
right needle bearing riding on the right shaft will run much longer than any 
bronze bushing.

I designed and started production of roller rockers for the Triumph six 
cylinder and small four cylinders in 1993 and a few years later for the big 
four cylinder.  Since then I have sold over 650 sets and all have had needle 
bearings at the shaft.  Since 1996 all have had needle bearings in the 
roller.  They are holding up just fine.  My design has oil channels feeding 
to the roller and the push rod cup and control of oil spill from the ends of 
the needle bearings.

Regards,
Richard Good
Good Parts Inc.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <riverside at southslope.net>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:46 PM
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers


> Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
>
> art de armond


From kaskas at cox.net  Mon Jul 11 14:33:57 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 20:33:57 +0000
Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
In-Reply-To: <51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>
References: <843DC5915BED40F1BE6E5B9F86EAC74E@rileyPC>,
	<51E1A97E401741F39B6B354450EFF8CA@AdminPC>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W22967E509A39F629E7BEFEDF450@phx.gbl>

As usual, you research things, then quietly build great parts. I am booster of
yours, as you know.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: goodparts at verizon.net
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 15:38:55 -0400
> Subject: [Fot] needle bearings in rockers
>
> Needle bearings are widely used and well proven in rockers.  I did a search
> some time ago and all the roller rocker manufacturers I could find were
> using needle bearings at the shaft and the better ones had needle bearings
> in the roller also.  Harland Sharp's web site lists roller rockers for a
> whole host of applications and from what I could find all, except those for
> use MG and Triumph, have needle bearings at the shaft.  I could not
> determine if they had needle bearings in the roller or not.  I assume they
> had to use bronze bushings in the MG and Triumph rockers because they do not
> make a shaft for those applications.  A good hard shaft of correct design is
> required for needle bearings.  Do not try to run them on a replacement
> original shaft, even if it has been nitrided.  It will not hold up.  The
> right needle bearing riding on the right shaft will run much longer than any
> bronze bushing.
>
> I designed and started production of roller rockers for the Triumph six
> cylinder and small four cylinders in 1993 and a few years later for the big
> four cylinder.  Since then I have sold over 650 sets and all have had needle
> bearings at the shaft.  Since 1996 all have had needle bearings in the
> roller.  They are holding up just fine.  My design has oil channels feeding
> to the roller and the push rod cup and control of oil spill from the ends of
> the needle bearings.
>
> Regards,
> Richard Good
> Good Parts Inc.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <riverside at southslope.net>
> To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 5:46 PM
> Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers
>
>
> > Who sells a good quality roller rocker setup?
> >
> > art de armond
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From dos_gusanos at msn.com  Mon Jul 11 16:12:19 2011
From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 16:12:19 -0600
Subject: [Fot] FW: TR-8 (for Sale)
In-Reply-To: <1309993586.72647.YahooMailRC@web59610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1309993586.72647.YahooMailRC@web59610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SNT134-w419607C419038E1C3F467E90450@phx.gbl>

Hello group, this TR8 will come up for sale here in Albuquerque and I can't or
rather shouldn't but still want to buy it.  If there is anyone interested in
the car contact me or Jake directly, we have no financial interest in it yet.
Cheers Henry Morrison, 505-259-1537.



Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 16:06:26 -0700
From: kekjacobsen at yahoo.com
Subject: TR-8
To: dos_gusanos at msn.com






Henry,
Not sure why, but our dumb email didn't pick up your address last time we
chatted. Anyhow, It's a 1980 TR-8 with 5000 original miles that's been in
storage for "a long time" but indoors so no rust. Will likely need a soft
restoration. He has no idea what he wants for it, but I'm assuming he's fairly
motivated as his wife has suddenly asked for a divorce...ouch!

Have a good one!
Thanks,
Jake


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Mon Jul 11 22:41:24 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 21:41:24 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Source  for TR4 crank plugs
References: <1519738514.294695.1310144842294.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7480354160714DAAB91F71875AAD7EC5@your89d26e0447>

they are standard 1/4" pipe plugs with an allen hex drive. we have them in 
stock.
                                                                             
                                    Greg Solow
                                                                             
                                    831 4291800 


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 12 04:56:46 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 06:56:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
BeaveRun:
Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's kinda
like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same time!)
You'll do fine Marty.
Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
Me in my 70 TR6.
I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
are a good bunch.
See you there.
Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
farm)


From rikrock at live.com  Tue Jul 12 05:48:44 2011
From: rikrock at live.com (Rich Rock)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 07:48:44 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>

That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.

Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump thanks
to this list)

No Scott Janzen?

Rich Rock

-----Original Message-----
From: william r tobin
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun

Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
BeaveRun:
Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
kinda
like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
time!)
You'll do fine Marty.
Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
Me in my 70 TR6.
I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
are a good bunch.
See you there.
Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
farm)
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Tue Jul 12 05:52:36 2011
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 07:52:36 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
Message-ID: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>

I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what  
size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in  
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to  
the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but  
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8  
gallon cell.  Don

--


From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Jul 12 06:29:28 2011
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott janzen)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:29:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
References: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1B3A4A71-7822-4DE0-88DF-210C308687FF@me.com>

Yep GT6 is on the list, if my day job work gets done!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Rich Rock <rikrock at live.com> wrote:

> That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.
> 
> Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump thanks
> to this list)
> 
> No Scott Janzen?
> 
> Rich Rock
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: william r tobin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
> 
> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
> kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
> time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock at live.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 12 06:34:39 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 08:34:39 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
References: <snt0-eas479938C328EAEAE64956BCC6440@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <3E7B6847B8BB48B19FB85AF3B72FDC83@owner8914bbf7f>

Oops, sorry, Scott will be there.
A thousand pardons Scott. I somehow missed his your name! Hope to see your 
GT6 Friday.
Thanks Rich, for the reminder.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich Rock" <rikrock at live.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] BeaveRun


> That "Tuscan" is powered by a 3 litre Essex V-6.
>
> Dave Miller will be there in his TR-4 (with a new Steve Yott oil pump 
> thanks
> to this list)
>
> No Scott Janzen?
>
> Rich Rock
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: william r tobin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:56 AM
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
>
> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP 
> at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
> kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
> time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from 
> him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG 
> guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rikrock at live.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 12 13:07:40 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:07:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] 1500 Spit rockers (fwd)
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107121506470.12517@isis.mit.edu>

Gary Hunter reminds me:

  CMS  MARCH 2011  issue  149  page 77  ROLLER ROCKERS      Cheers  gary
Gary Hunter
Reader Services
Grassroots Motorsports / Classic Motorsports
gary at grassrootsmotorsports.com
386-239-0523


tnx, Gary.

Love the mag.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 14:43:58 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (norlinengineering at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 13:43:58 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
Message-ID: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>

I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8  
inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I figure  
one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than  
that.l

Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size

I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what  
size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in  
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to  
the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but  
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8  
gallon cell.  Don

--
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  
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From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Tue Jul 12 14:57:47 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 16:57:47 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>
References: <69028DB0B88446B78D400288F50C28E4@owner8914bbf7f>
Message-ID: <897BAE68-A8EE-406B-94BF-BF1124733321@aol.com>

I will be there but not racing. I will be crewing for any triumph that needs
me.  Mainly I will be crewing for a MGA, Formula Vee, and a bug eye.

I will have some grill badges and will be taking orders for flags.  Cash,
check, and hopefully Credit cards.


See ya'll there

Chris

PS  where is the grotto?


On Jul 12, 2011, at 6:56 AM, william r tobin wrote:

> Hi All, here's the Triumph lineup for this wekend's Pittsburgh Vintage GP
at
> BeaveRun:
> Marty Sukey in a 64 Spitfire. It's his first race: have fun Marty! (It's
kinda
> like autocrossing, but with about 25 close friends involved at the same
time!)
> You'll do fine Marty.
> Bill Rampe in a 66 Spit.
> Chris Zappa in a very nice 69 TVR Tuscan.
> Robert Stadel in a 57 Ambro Triumph.
> Me in my 70 TR6.
> I tried to tallk Dick Stockton into coming down but haven't heard from him.
> And a whole bunch of Spridgets for the Donna Mae Mimms memorial race.
> The PVGP races are great fun, well run, and support charities. The VRG guys
> are a good bunch.
> See you there.
> Bill Tobin  Cambridge Springs, PA (I sold my house in Erie and moved to my
> farm)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com
>
>

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322


From sgroh1 at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 15:25:44 2011
From: sgroh1 at comcast.net (Steven Groh)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 15:25:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
	<a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <9D5D7781-BB01-43CC-9F13-38367CFE97DD@comcast.net>

8 gallon has worked for me on all tracks in the NE

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2011, at 2:43 PM,
"norlinengineering at comcast.net"<norlinengineering at comcast.net> wrote:

> I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8
> inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I figure
> one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than
> that.l
>
> Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
> To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
>
> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sgroh1 at comcast.net


From budscars at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 15:58:07 2011
From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 14:58:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
	<a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <504D2C3F237348E7A2848FB3EB74CFCC@Bud>

I use an 8 gallon cell in my Spitfire..
RB
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <norlinengineering at comcast.net>
To: "Don Marshall" <donmarshall at nefcom.net>; <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size


> I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire.   I like it because it's 8
> inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake.  I 
> figure
> one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks.  I never use more than
> that.l
>
> Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
> To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
> Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
>
> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fpspitfire at comcast.net  Tue Jul 12 21:16:16 2011
From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 03:16:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
In-Reply-To: <a06f6350-cfe7-493c-b777-8205000c96c0@blur>
Message-ID: <390964174.531052.1310526976378.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

8 gallons is just enough for my 1500 in a 45 min scca national race. 
Aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net
To: Don Marshall &lt;donmarshall at nefcom.net&gt;, fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 20:43:58 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
I've got an 8 gallon cell in my 1300 Spitfire. I like it because it's 8 
inches deep so calibration of the fuel stick was a piece of cake. I figure 
one gallon of fuel every 10 minutes at most tracks. I never use more than 
that.l
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Don Marshall <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 12, 2011 11:52:36 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what 
size cells are most commonly used. Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in 
my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to 
the paddock. It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but 
I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8 
gallon cell. Don
--
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rocky at spitfire4.com  Tue Jul 12 22:44:47 2011
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken)
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2011 23:44:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size
References: <op.vyh8lylsairs7i@don-pc.belkin>
Message-ID: <E352DFAEE8FF44C0950008957ABEFAE8@rocky>

Eight gallons here. ATL cell.

I usually never fill it to the 8-gallon mark -- people get all excited when 
the overflow vent actually overflows a little (Geez, people, it'll evaporate 
before you can get the kitty litter). Lately I go out with 5-6 gallons for a 
race and come in with 2-3 depending on race length.

BTW, I got mine with dual pickups, one duckfoot in each back corner,  and 
run them to dual fuel pumps (twin Holley reds, which tee into one fuel line 
going forward and choked down to 2.5 psi at the regulator). Even with less 
than a gallon, I have fuel to the carbs.

--Rocky Entriken

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Marshall" <donmarshall at nefcom.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 6:52 AM
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire fuel cell size


> I'm going to need a fuel cell for my 1147 Spit and I'm curious as to what
> size cells are most commonly used.  Currently I have an 8 gallon cell in
> my TR4, which is just enough to do a 1 hour enduro and still get back to
> the paddock.  It seems to me that a 5 gallon would suffice in a Spit but
> I'd like to know if others are running those or should I go with an 8
> gallon cell.  Don
>
> --
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com


From Catpusher at aol.com  Wed Jul 13 12:33:38 2011
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2011 14:33:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Subject:  Quaife and 4.1 Installation     Issues TR3
Message-ID: <493.1a72c4cd.3b4f3f02@aol.com>

Hi Barry,

Where did you find the 4.1 R & P?

The pinion head bearing (factory PN# 100897) was Timken cup 3120, but the
inner race was 3188-S.  The "S" denotes a modification from normal.   The OD
of the pinion shaft was a size that required a slightly oversize ID in  the
brg.  This is the most important brg. in a TR diff. setup.

TR Regards,

Hardy


In a message dated 7/11/2011 3:58:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
barry at penybryn.ca writes:


Hi Hardy b Thanks  for your input. Based on the content of all the
suggestions and advice that I  have received so far, two consistent facts have
surfaced. First there is no  way that Quaife would have manufactured a case
that
only fit one ratio and the  second was to check the pinion depth. At the
time I ordered the pinion  bearings I could not source the original Timken
ones
and had to settle for  aftermarket bexactb replicas (probably Chinese as
there are no markings other  than a number). While the numbers and dimensions
appear to be the same as the  stock ones, the large bearing is definitely
different in construction and sits  higher in the cup. The correct
replacement bearings arrived today so webll  see.
Thanks  again.
Barry.



From:  Catpusher at aol.com [mailto:Catpusher at aol.com]
Sent: July-10-11 8:37  PM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc:  barry at penybryn.ca
Subject: Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1  Installation Issues TR3


The  only problem that I had with 2 Quaifes that I did for other people was
 that the factory Hand Press collets could not get behind the side brgs. to
 remove them.

Is  the pinion Depth correct?

Who  made the 4.1 R & P ?

Quaife  problem as mentioned by others?



Hardy




In a  message dated 7/8/2011 8:02:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
fot-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  "Barry Munson" <barry at penybryn.ca>
To:  <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Quaife and 4.1 Installation  Issues TR3

Amici - I have purchased a new Quaife  directly from Quaife UK, a new 4.11
gear set and a complete set of new  bearings for installation in a Southwick
conversion TR3 differential  housing. In what should have been a relatively
simple installation  process has proved to be one royal PITA. Simply put
with
the pinion  installed with the correct preload, even with all the shims
moved
to one  side of the carrier there is no way to get any backlash.

This has  been driving my installer crazy as they have checked, several
times, all  the dimensions, bearing and cage heights. It appears that the
Quaife cage  is 1.2 mm taller than the stock cage. I have phoned the Quaife
tech line  twice and sent a number of e-mails requesting assistance and
received the  following response: "I think that our diff only fits with the
3.75 ratio  directly, the only option will be to Machine the crown  wheel
face."

<snip>

Barry.


From igofaster at att.net  Thu Jul 14 19:55:04 2011
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 18:55:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
Message-ID: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Looking for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...

Bobby Whitehead


From Gt6steve at aol.com  Thu Jul 14 20:17:26 2011
From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 22:17:26 EDT
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
Message-ID: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>

Dime a dozen.  Go to Hyperco or Eibach and make your pick.  Cheap  and 
plentiful in any rate you desire.  Hell, I think I have some 650's I'll  give 
ya....
 
 
In a message dated 7/14/2011 7:13:14 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
igofaster at att.net writes:

Looking  for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...

Bobby  Whitehead
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com


From gasket.works at gte.net  Fri Jul 15 21:43:46 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 03:43:46 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Tr6/gt6 Crankshaft
Message-ID: <1711856035-1310787828-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-372154456-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

All;

If interested in a custom billet tr6 / gt6 crankshaft with full counter balancing, dummy (false main) with  either open rod journals or solid cross drilled journals. Please let me know.  I will try to get a photo of the cnc cad mock up drawing on the fot site for eval.  Cost is about $2400.oo +fob.  Shipping from UK.  You spec out rod and main size, short or long BUTT and flywheel holes.  The material is certified  EN40B steel.  

 I have three takers now.  Moldex charges double that.  Price will drop @ 5 orders. 

Let me know off line.

NFI (except saving $)

Mordy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From gasket.works at gte.net  Sat Jul 16 07:39:29 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 13:39:29 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR6 / gt6 crank
Message-ID: <650815302-1310823569-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-943340943-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

http://www.fot-racing.com/tr6crank.htm

For those interested here is a CAD mock up of two crankshft designs.  From they weigh perhaps 27kg or so.  The open rod journals design may have a bit less weight ..may spin faster.  I suspect this thread could grow regarding which design is better for vintage racing....

M


Contact 

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From toodamnfunky at comcast.net  Sat Jul 16 11:21:35 2011
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 11:21:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
Message-ID: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>

Fot

I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.

I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on that
subject.

It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
between the valves and toward the 

intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.

Any comments ?

 

Thanks,

jim g


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Jul 16 20:10:42 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 21:10:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
References: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>

NGK BP-7-HS, 0.030".

Tony Drews
TR-4 #95

At 12:21 PM 7/16/2011, Jim Gray wrote:
>Fot
>
>I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
>
>I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on that
>subject.
>
>It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
>between the valves and toward the
>
>intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
>
>Any comments ?
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>jim g


From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jul 16 20:46:06 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 20:46:06 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>
References: <20110716172513.193791878F4@autox.team.net>
	<20110717023129.E52BF187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4E224CEE.4070903@bradakis.com>

 > I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.

I usually use NGK or Autolite.  Gapped at 025 for points cars, 35 for ones
with any sort of electronic ignition like Pertronix.

mjb.


From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sat Jul 16 21:24:58 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2011 23:24:58 EDT
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
Message-ID: <501d.3471e6cc.3b53b00a@aol.com>

ISTR that the plug is indexed to the intake valve to cool the plug with the 
 incoming a/f charge.  As for spark plugs, I don't know what the racers are 
 using.  I use NGK BP6ES in by street TR6/GT6.  HTH.
 
Sam Clark
 
 
Fot

I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and  favorite gaps.

I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions  seem to vary on that
subject.

It's been said that it's best to index  the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
between the valves and toward the  

intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.

Any comments  ?



Thanks,

jim  g


From cartravel at pobox.com  Sun Jul 17 09:22:46 2011
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 10:22:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>
References: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>
Message-ID: <4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>

Oops, I fogot to send my original reply to the list.  Several 1% 
improvements could add up.  In my limited experience with dynos (mostly 
low horespower motors), it seems like multiple pulls will frequently 
show a 1% difference.  Other opinions?

On 7/16/2011 10:30 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> Larry,
> We have some local Ford GT350 racers/tuners that see 1.2% gain on the dyno
> on a 470 HP motor when the plugs are indexed. The whole issue came up when
> discussing several small improvements that add up to time gained on-track.
> I'm still improving my driving skills but won't pass up an opportunity to
> improve the car wherever I can.
>
>
> jim g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Young [mailto:cartravel at pobox.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 5:38 PM
> To: Jim Gray
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
>
> I like NGK BP7HS for a hotted up TR3/4.  One notch colder than stock.
>
> Is the effect of indexing measurable on a dyno?  I wonder.  If it's not
> measurable, that would explain the variety of opinions.  It's so great
> to talk about differences that can't be measured.
>
>
> On 7/16/2011 12:21 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
>> Fot
>>
>> I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
>>
>> I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on
> that
>> subject.
>>
>> It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust valve,
>> between the valves and toward the
>>
>> intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
>>
>> Any comments ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> jim g
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Sun Jul 17 10:13:52 2011
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:13:52 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Part Number ID help!!!
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey Members,

I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??

Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
the part

Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
Gear reduction starter    R-33037
Koni Shocks                 80-1005
Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
1.88"
Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
starter on passenger side
Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
56
Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
27B6, 0589
Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
insert, 50-522
Pistons                         17753B
Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
is 6.0"
Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???

Thanks so much for any help you an provide.

Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From kaskas at cox.net  Sun Jul 17 10:30:55 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:30:55 +0000
Subject: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec motor
In-Reply-To: <4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>
References: <20110717033334.30FE040A0BB@sepia.pobox.com>,
	<4E22FE46.9040406@pobox.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W27589C30CDD4EF10577EEEDF4B0@phx.gbl>

I have no experience with this method, but will say that the location of the
beginning of the flame front in the combustion chamber should have an effect.
I would think that shortening the time to the section prone to detonation
(the hot side, exhaust) would give a favorible result and allow a smidge more
ignition timing. I don't think that the small amount of direction change would
have much effect on the flow down over the plug from the inlet valve although
that is very important in heat range or extended nose type plugs. MY opinion.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 10:22:46 -0500
> From: cartravel at pobox.com
> To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec
motor
>
> Oops, I fogot to send my original reply to the list.  Several 1%
> improvements could add up.  In my limited experience with dynos (mostly
> low horespower motors), it seems like multiple pulls will frequently
> show a 1% difference.  Other opinions?
>
> On 7/16/2011 10:30 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> > Larry,
> > We have some local Ford GT350 racers/tuners that see 1.2% gain on the
dyno
> > on a 470 HP motor when the plugs are indexed. The whole issue came up
when
> > discussing several small improvements that add up to time gained
on-track.
> > I'm still improving my driving skills but won't pass up an opportunity to
> > improve the car wherever I can.
> >
> >
> > jim g
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Young [mailto:cartravel at pobox.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 5:38 PM
> > To: Jim Gray
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 spark plug and indexing poll for full race spec
motor
> >
> > I like NGK BP7HS for a hotted up TR3/4.  One notch colder than stock.
> >
> > Is the effect of indexing measurable on a dyno?  I wonder.  If it's not
> > measurable, that would explain the variety of opinions.  It's so great
> > to talk about differences that can't be measured.
> >
> >
> > On 7/16/2011 12:21 PM, Jim Gray wrote:
> >> Fot
> >>
> >> I was curious as to what spark plugs everybody runs and favorite gaps.
> >>
> >> I'm playing around with index washers now and opinions seem to vary on
> > that
> >> subject.
> >>
> >> It's been said that it's best to index the plugs facing the exhaust
valve,
> >> between the valves and toward the
> >>
> >> intake valve. Lots of opinions on that subject.
> >>
> >> Any comments ?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> jim g
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> fot at autox.team.net
> >>
> >> http://www.fot-racing.com
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From cartravel at pobox.com  Sun Jul 17 11:15:35 2011
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 12:15:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Part Number ID help!!!
In-Reply-To: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B019869D@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Message-ID: <4E2318B7.9030108@pobox.com>

I don't believe that is a Triumph OD (at least not a big Triumph).  Is 
it an A type or J type?  I believe the A type overdrives were 22% ratio 
and the J-type overdrives used in the TR6 were 25/115838 and 25/1158976.

I have profiled several Crane cams and have a master catalog of their 
profiles.  That one is not amongst them.  244 is usually the duration at 
0.050.

On 7/17/2011 11:13 AM, Diesel Performance Parts - Info wrote:
> Hey Members,
>
> I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??
>
> Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
> the part
>
> Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
> Gear reduction starter    R-33037
> Koni Shocks                 80-1005
> Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
> Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
> be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
> Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
> new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
> 1.88"
> Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
> at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
> starter on passenger side
> Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
> has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
> Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
> are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
> Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
> dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
> Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
> no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
> Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
> Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
> 56
> Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
> 27B6, 0589
> Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
> Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
> insert, 50-522
> Pistons                         17753B
> Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
> is 6.0"
> Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
> Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???
>
> Thanks so much for any help you an provide.
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
>
> www.dieselperformanceparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Jul 17 11:40:19 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 13:40:19 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <D8A33728-406F-44A4-8DCD-7CEA36EFA71B@aol.com>

Amici
It is so nice to put faces to names and make friends.

I want to send a special thanks to Bill who helped Marty be able to run a full
session.

Over all there were a few orders placed for flags. I am sorry that I forgot to
bring some badges.

The FOT is truly a great bunch of people. I am glad I am part of it.

So who is going to glen on October?


From triosan at gmail.com  Sun Jul 17 12:00:32 2011
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 11:00:32 -0700
Subject: [Fot] improved springs for GT6
In-Reply-To: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310694904.51797.YahooMailRC@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNCWBGTYP2=OHWYY7n3ojnrNAXY31PAiE+FLDyK7yvFU3w@mail.gmail.com>

I bought hypercoilds for front [600 6" tsll] and rear [800 8"].  Had
e-Machine shop create spring perrchs as these springs are too narrow to sit
on ours.  Will be installing heem in a couple of weeks and will post some
pictures.  In switching computers I ended up loosing the drawing I did.  The
ones for the front each provide 3/4" height, so effective spring length is
now 7.5".  I can slip in varios thickness washers to allow for weight
jacking should I ever get that sophisticated.  Get it running, relearn to
drive are actions one and two when I retire in two weeks.

On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 6:55 PM, Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net> wrote:

> Looking for a source for 600 pound springs for the GT6...
>
> Bobby Whitehead
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From SeaCubeCo at aol.com  Sun Jul 17 20:15:27 2011
From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:15:27 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and Craig Leinicke
Message-ID: <8F55E00C-4B60-45AB-987C-91106CB67C15@aol.com>

Your payments have been received. 

Thanks

Christopher Bock
www.SeaCubeCo.com
SeaCubeCo at aol.com
(609) 319-4322


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Sun Jul 17 20:43:18 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 19:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
Message-ID: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my rear
brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. 
Jim in Folsom, CA


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 17 23:04:07 2011
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:04:07 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
In-Reply-To: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <032f01cc4508$1fcd39a0$0301a8c0@randall>

> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am 
> getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes

Find a quiet stretch of road and find out how fast you can stop.  Ideally
both front and rear should lock up at the same time.  But if the fronts lock
up first, and it only takes a little more pressure to lock up the rears,
that's OK.

To my way of thinking, this is reasonable periodic maintenance for old cars;
at least those driven on the street.  Good driver education, too. 

-- Randall  


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Mon Jul 18 01:00:31 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 00:00:31 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
In-Reply-To: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E23DA0F.8050407@comcast.net>

I'm assuming we're talking race car with a balance bar between two 
master cylinders.  When I used to work on Formula Fords we would lift 
the car off the ground and make an adjustable device that pushed on the 
brake pedal.  We would adjust that so that the brakes dragged 
significantly but didn't lock up.  Then, we would adjust the bias bar so 
that turning the front and rear wheels felt pretty much the same.  After 
that, it was up to the driver.  These cars have 4 wheel discs and about 
35% weight on the front and 65% on the rear so under braking with the 
forward weight transfer, they are about 50-50 and this technique works.

I tried doing the same thing with my Spitfire and found it moved the 
bias way too far to the back.  Because of the weight balance  and weight 
transfer under braking, this technique won't work on our cars.  One 
thing I noticed was I was wearing out rear brakes way faster than the 
fronts and having to adjust them a lot.  I've since moved the balance 
bar a lot farther to the front and balanced the wear front to rear.  I 
think watching wear patterns is a good check.

If you can find a straight test location, you want to get the fronts to 
lock up slightly before the rears.  On my Spitfire (with rear drums), I 
don't think it is possible to get the rears to lock up first.

Jim Norlin

On 7/17/2011 7:43 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my rear
> brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
> Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 05:14:01 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:14:01 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together
References: <1310956998.13837.YahooMailRC@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6EEB0A4939EA41C0B9BF9454167F8376@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi All, a couple things I did were to throw away the PDWA switch ( the 
pressure differential switch), and went to 7/8 inch diameter rear wheel 
cylinders as opposed to the stock 3/4 inch ones. They can be had from most 
of the TR specialty shops.That put more braking to the rear. I also just put 
on Richard Good's dual MC setup; nice setup. Still tinkering with the 
balance bar setup.
    Several of our suppliers offer higher performance rear linings. Talk to 
some of them about their recommendations.
    I'm assuming you're using braided lines instead of hoses?
    My brakes worked well over the weekend at BeaveRun. Seems all the 
Triumph guys had fun.
Cheers, Bill Tobin
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "sherry robyn" <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 10:43 PM
Subject: [Fot] Getting front and rear brakes working together


> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my 
> rear
> brakes aren't taking a free ride.  Any thoughts on this would be 
> appreciated.
> Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 05:39:33 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 07:39:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Brakes
Message-ID: <8D80DBD7426D4DF0A033B258D2DF0BB3@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi, this a follow up to my braking problems at Mid Ohio. What started out as a
leaking rear wheel cylinder (it had just been replaced) kind of snowballed. I
replaced cylinder and the rear linings at the track, but the drums didn't want
to fit on. I marked the ends of the shoes and filed off a small amount of
metal at the end contact points and got the drums on. They worked but not to
my liking.
When I got home, I arc-ground the linings with an AMMCO Safe Arc grinder that
I had bought at an auction for $10 years ago but never used. That helped a lot
to have the linings flat with the drums, which I had lightly turned just to
clean up. After everything was back together, the brakes worked much better.
    The manual says to "offer up" the shoes after the springs are put in the
holes. Usually during the offering up, the springs fall out, nasty words are
said, and you start again! I took some 1/4" wooden dowel pins and sanded a
taper in 4 of them. I put the spring ends in the holes in the shoe and tap a
dowel in the hole to keep the springs in place. Works great and makes the
offering up much easier and quicker.
    Dr Dave from TRF gave me a good tip on installing the wheel cylinder
locking plate; ignore the manual and install the middle locking plate from the
rear last. Saves a lot of grief.
    Thanks to all who replyed a couple weeks ago.
Cheers, Bill


From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 18 07:21:11 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 09:21:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend
Message-ID: <BLU160-w1768708D99CD304B5183CABA4A0@phx.gbl>

I survived my first vintage race.  Found some mechanical issues on this shake
down event for me, addressed some, have some I still need to address. Worked
hard but had a blast.  Had the pleasure to meet some new Triumph folk.
Thanks are in order. First to those of you who put up with my annoying email
and phone call questions in the weeks leading up to the event as I tried to
get ready.  At the track, My son Jason who helped me with everything
throughout the weekend.  Bill Tobin for sharing his trailer and everything in
it, it was a godsend to be padocked next to him. Dale Oesterle for the many
suggestions he made. And last but not least, my hero Bill Rampe who I will
forever be indebted to for dragging out his spare radiator and letting me
install it in my car saturday night.  Bill, YOU DA MAN!  I was slow all
weekend but I ended up about 15 seconds faster at the end of the weekend than
I started on Friday so I guess I learned something.  I am sure there are
people I forgot and I apologize, the weekend was pretty much a blur.

See you soon.

Marty Sukey


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Jul 18 08:23:17 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:23:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover
Message-ID: <CAJ1+nOStm90+7ZQFSbTzNcm6==8vju33wdetFRomJdi1D5z8Yg@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone remember when the TR6 engine changed port sizes? Year or S/N?

Thanks,
Bob


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 08:43:06 2011
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:43:06 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
Message-ID: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>

Amici...

After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado 
Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler 
International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob 
Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While 
the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the 
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D 
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and we'll 
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with 
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car 
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE' 
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the 
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure what 
the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your 
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the 
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close 
tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the 
car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since 
coming to North America.

The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very 
light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race 
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car, 
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street 
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine 
events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers. 
 We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being 
retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.  
But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great 
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill Dentinger


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 09:17:52 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:17:52 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend
References: <BLU160-w1768708D99CD304B5183CABA4A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C20F326D5B1840A89E0F8F29D83CFA46@owner8914bbf7f>

Marty, you're quite welcome! It was great when you finished your first 
session; I know the big grin feeling!
Glad I could help.
"Gee Bill, why do you carry all that stuff with you?" "'Cause I might not 
need it but one of my pals might."
 It was nice meeting your family and hanging out with them.
Glad you had fun.
I had a *#@$%^& blast!
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 9:21 AM
Subject: [Fot] Beaver Run Weekend


>I survived my first vintage race.  Found some mechanical issues on this 
>shake
> down event for me, addressed some, have some I still need to address. 
> Worked
> hard but had a blast.  Had the pleasure to meet some new Triumph folk.
> Thanks are in order. First to those of you who put up with my annoying 
> email
> and phone call questions in the weeks leading up to the event as I tried 
> to
> get ready.  At the track, My son Jason who helped me with everything
> throughout the weekend.  Bill Tobin for sharing his trailer and everything 
> in
> it, it was a godsend to be padocked next to him. Dale Oesterle for the 
> many
> suggestions he made. And last but not least, my hero Bill Rampe who I will
> forever be indebted to for dragging out his spare radiator and letting me
> install it in my car saturday night.  Bill, YOU DA MAN!  I was slow all
> weekend but I ended up about 15 seconds faster at the end of the weekend 
> than
> I started on Friday so I guess I learned something.  I am sure there are
> people I forgot and I apologize, the weekend was pretty much a blur.
>
> See you soon.
>
> Marty Sukey
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 18 09:22:02 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:22:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE13759408E06A-7CC-631B@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com>

ya!  say it aint so!

like the end of an era

relieved to read that SWAN SONG was not equivalent to TOTALED.

BEST WISHES!

Joe A

BRITISH RACE CAR         ATTENTION!

Everyone might review the very comprehensive photo/journal on the TORNADO on
this website:

britishracecar.com        glad it got such a GREAT review before it's
retirement.

ALSO, Dennis Delap's TVR is featured in there.

More FOT TRIUMPH cars to be featured in the future........we deserve it, dont
you think?







-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>; TornadoRegistrar <TornadoRegistrar at aol.com>
Cc: CDHEXTALL <CDHEXTALL at aol.com>; wiallisons <wiallisons at hotmail.com>; office
<office at tidemaster.co.uk>
Sent: Mon, Jul 18, 2011 10:05 am
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...


Amici...

After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While
the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
we'll
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE'
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure
what
the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since
coming to North America.

The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111
race
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
 We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 18 09:53:20 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:53:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] BeaveRun
Message-ID: <D0611F5F04884EF8B0ED5EDFA6FB16A1@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi Gang, here's a recap of the PVGP event this past weekend.
David Miller did well in his quick red TR4; a couple seconds off the pace.
Dale Oesterle is always quick in his very yellow Spit.
The Ambro of Robert Stadel is a very nice car (I usually see it from behind);
he talked with my friend Janet and myself Sunday morning.
I'm not sure how Bill Rampe made out; I lost track in all the excitement. I
know he made Marty Sukey's weekend by loaning a radiator.
Marty had fun, learned a lot, and got some valuable experience.
I'm not sure who else was there, I only had sheets for group 4.
Me, I had a great weekend. The only thing I did all weekend, other than
checking pressures, lug nuts, and oil, was pull the drums a couple times and
blow the dust out. Other than that, the old 6 ran great. The engine is
starting to run well after some carb issues last year; pulls easily up to 6K
(or beyond). This was the 4th race ofter the rebuild.
The handling is getting better and the driver is always improving!
I ran with a Pinto, Bathtub Porsche, and MGB, and a 2002 all weekend. Beat
them all in the final race! YEEHAW! Especially the 356. I talked with the
driver after the race and he also had a good time and was very complimentary.
My old tractor engine had more grunt on the straights than his 4 cylinder. The
young BMW owner also came over after the race; he also had fun. That's the
name of the game.
After 3 or 4 years of being at the back, it's nice to be moving up! Marty,
you'll do the same; keep working on it!
Cheers, Bill


From jason at multivintage.com  Mon Jul 18 10:14:53 2011
From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 11:14:53 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CALCydYqqXJYmfEOzuWAkj5nTm+zfhKh8SoVLA9PZ4Zfbnga9Sw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm surprised you guys outlasted the car!
We always enjoyed seeing that beautiful car run around through the woods.
A good run while it lasted.
Props to you both, for the respect you and ALL your cars deserve for their
great preparation standards.

Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 9:43 AM, <BillDentin at aol.com> wrote:

> Amici...
>
> After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
> Thunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
> International Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
> Wismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).
>  While
> the Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with
> the
> sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
> Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
> we'll
> take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
> the sports racers.
>
> Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
> Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight
> 'RESERVE'
> award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
> largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not
> sure what
> the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
> car is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years,
> the
> Thunder Bolt has
> won four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.
>
> Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
> tract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
> car.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events
> since
> coming to North America.
>
> The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
> light.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111
> race
> events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
> detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
> car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.
>
> The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
> events.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
>  We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
> retired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
> But not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
> run.  Very satisfying.
>
> Bill Dentinger
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com


From jhouathome at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 10:19:42 2011
From: jhouathome at aol.com (jhouathome at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:19:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE137DA245010D-274C-582C@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com>

Bill,

I have so enjoyed the T-Bolt all these years.  Even though I lasted all of 2
laps yesterday befor the Kellison/Triumph gave up the ghost it was great to
take the pace lap behind Bob for this occasion.  All of us TR types have loved
that you two brought it out, and it will be missed.  I have also been very
impressed that your two have made a partnership with a race car actually work!
The respect and friendship betweeen you two has been quite evident in all the
years I have shared the track with you.

Thanks for sharing with all of us!
John Houlton








-----Original Message-----
From: BillDentin <BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>; TornadoRegistrar <TornadoRegistrar at aol.com>
Cc: CDHEXTALL <CDHEXTALL at aol.com>; wiallisons <wiallisons at hotmail.com>; office
<office at tidemaster.co.uk>
Sent: Mon, Jul 18, 2011 10:04 am
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...


Amici...
After completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado
hunder Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler
nternational Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob
ismer was driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While
he Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
ports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
odified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and we'll
ake that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running with
he sports racers.
Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the Friday night Race Car
oncours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its second straight 'RESERVE'
ward.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de Elegance is probably the
argest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours in the USA.  I am not sure
hat
he 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it is something like, "Yeah, your
ar is gorgeous, but you can't win every year."  Down through the years, the
hunder Bolt has
on four trophies in this prestigious race car Concours.
Interesting to our partnership is the fact that without our keeping close
ract Bob and I ended up each running exactly fifty-five race events in the
ar.  The guy we bought it from ran one, for a total of 111 race events since
oming to North America.
The Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very
ight.  Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race
vents is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
etune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
ar, and probably go on winning beauty contests.
The car is very popular at Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine
vents.  So we got lots of, "Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers.
We were asked often about our feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being
etired from racing.  I think most thought our reaction would be sadness.
ut not so.  Satisfaction would be far more descriptive.  It's been a great
un.  Very satisfying.
Bill Dentinger
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhouathome at aol.com


From tlizzard at msn.com  Mon Jul 18 10:31:16 2011
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:31:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY164-ds203309A1D0304184F72953C34A0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to both you and Bob for all the memories.

The Tornado remains one of my favorite cars in all of North American vintage
racing, and you guys being the class act that you are have enriched my, and
all of our experience in the sport.


So, what's up your collective sleeves now?


Terry Stetler


From BillDentin at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 10:48:30 2011
From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:48:30 EDT
Subject: [Fot] Fwd:  Swan Song...
Message-ID: <3c5d5.19b72ac3.3b55bdde@aol.com>

Return-Path: <BillDentin at aol.com>
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From: BillDentin at aol.com
Full-name: BillDentin
Message-ID: <3b437.6c6434.3b55b85e at aol.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:25:02 EDT
Subject: Re: [Fot] Swan Song...
To: n197tr4 at cs.com
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In a message dated 07/18/2011 10:22:02 AM Central Daylight Time, 
n197tr4 at cs.com writes:


> ya!  say it aint so!    
> like the end of an era
>  relieved to read that SWAN SONG was not equivalent to TOTALED.
> 
Thank everyone for the warm comments.  

More than a few expressed concern over my choice of 'Swan Song'.  It sent 
me back to the dictionary to double check.

There it says something like:  "Swan song" is a metaphorical phrase for a 
final gesture, effort, or performance given just before death or retirement. 
The phrase refers to an ancient belief that the Mute Swan (Cygnus olor) is 
completely silent during its lifetime until the moment just before death, 
when it sings one beautiful song. The belief, now known to be incorrect, had 
become proverbial in Ancient Greece by the 3rd century BC, and was reiterated 
many times in later Western poetry and art.  Using it this morning...was 
just our turn.

While our Thunder Bolt was not mute, neither Bob nor I drove it anywhere 
near as fast as it would go.  For one thing, it used to scare us.  Its 
aerodynamic shape causes the front end to get VERY light at the end of long 
straights.  We added a chin spoiler, which helped a little, but we still had the 
sensation of power steering at the end of straights...power steering that 
didn't seem to turn the wheels.  Mute, or not, she sang a pretty swan song this 
past week end.

Thanks again for all of the warm comments.

Bill Dentinger


From tstrange at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 18 11:13:06 2011
From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:13:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...
In-Reply-To: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
References: <e2e2.117637cf.3b55a07a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1311009186.97874.YahooMailRC@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bill & Bob ...
  I'd like to echo everyone elses comments ... its fast, and
a very pretty car; 
you two have done well with it ...  heres hoping its
future life will be as 
great as the past few years ...
 
Tom
http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm


#4 white spitfire
________________________________
From: "BillDentin at aol.com"
<BillDentin at aol.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net; TornadoRegistrar at aol.com
Cc:
CDHEXTALL at aol.com; wiallisons at hotmail.com; office at tidemaster.co.uk
Sent: Mon,
July 18, 2011 9:43:06 AM
Subject: [Fot] Swan Song...

Amici...

After
completing 111 race events since coming to North America, our Tornado 
Thunder
Bolt sang its swan song yesterday at Road America in the Kohler 
International
Challenge Group 3 (Vintage Sports Racers) feature race.  Bob 
Wismer was
driving and finished first in class (Vintage B/D Modified).  While 
the
Thunder Bolt is a production based car, it was often asked to run with the
sports racers to fill out a light  grid.  I'm not sure what Vintage B/D
Modified means, but I think it was an effort to enhance our chances...and
we'll 
take that.  The Thunder Bolt is a pretty car, and looks great running
with 
the sports racers.

Some frosting on the cake was the fact that in the
Friday night Race Car 
Concours de Elegance contest the T-bolt earned its
second straight 'RESERVE' 
award.  The Road & Track Race Car Concours de
Elegance is probably the 
largest, and arguably the finest Race Car Concours
in the USA.  I am not sure 
what 

the 'RESERVE' award means, but I think it
is something like, "Yeah, your 
car is gorgeous, but you can't win every
year."  Down through the years, the 
Thunder Bolt has
won four trophies in
this prestigious race car Concours.

Interesting to our partnership is the
fact that without our keeping close 
tract Bob and I ended up each running
exactly fifty-five race events in the 
car.  The guy we bought it from ran
one, for a total of 111 race events since 
coming to North America.

The
Triumph drive train is heavy, and the Thunder Bolt chassis is very 
light. 
Stress cracks in the bucket are a concern.  We've decided that 111 race
events is enough.  Bob's son-in-law, Doug Allison, will take over the car,
detune it, and freshen the cosmetics.  It'll now start a life as a street
car, and probably go on winning beauty contests.

The car is very popular at
Road America, where it has completed thirty-nine 
events.  So we got lots of,
"Say it ain't so!" comments from fellow racers. 
We were asked often about our
feelings now that the Thunder Bolt is being 
retired from racing.  I think
most thought our reaction would be sadness.  
But not so.  Satisfaction would
be far more descriptive.  It's been a great 
run.  Very satisfying.

Bill
Dentinger
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

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From harmug at us.ibm.com  Tue Jul 19 06:11:57 2011
From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:11:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Fw:Lorne Fritz
Message-ID: <OFCB77B4E1.79C2D8C6-ON852578D2.00429CAC-852578D2.00430341@us.ibm.com>

FYI, posting a note from fellow FOT'r Lorne Fritz, he's been having e-mail
issues.

I get my FOT emails thru Hot Mail and I have ,for some unknown reason, have
not been able to get on the site for almost 2 months.  Could you please let
anyone who may be trying to contact me to try lorne.fritz at jlink.net .

Thanks
Lorne

mike
63 Spit
70 GT6
72 MkV
80 1500

G. Michael Harmuth


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Tue Jul 19 07:46:21 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:46:21 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
Message-ID: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>

What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
an up-grade......thanks.......

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
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is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Tue Jul 19 08:30:48 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:30:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>

John, A lot of the racers I know with TR3, TR4 and TR6 (mine included) are 
using a Tilton rally clutch.  They use a 7.25" clutch and disc and aren't 
prone to the problems all the others are.  The main problem is the stock 
style TR6 clutch (which is what are most adapted to) is that the tabs that 
connect the cover to the pressure plate are only made to hold the pressure 
plate in acceleration mode and if you down shift or rev the engine with the 
clutch disengaged, the tabs will distort or break causing the pressure plate 
to get off center.
The other advantage is the weight savings of the rally clutch, about half 
the weight.
I've used the Saab turbo version of the TR6 pressure plate and several other 
"racing" clutches and all have failed, I've been using the Tilton for about 
3 years now with no problems. Quartermaster makes a similar clutch and 
contrary to belief, the parts are not interchangeable.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 6:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts 
> suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a 
> test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should 
> consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) 
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the 
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated 
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 08:53:02 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:53:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <000801cc4623$902fc070$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

All I have had replies from several folks to date.  As a consequence of  the
positive replies.... we have reached a threshold of price reduction i.e. Now,
about $2,250 fob!.  The next break point is $2,080 per unit and requires 10
orders.  I'm thinking that this is a pretty nice deal.  If ever there was a
time -this could be it as I doubt that a group buy will likely be comming
around in the forseable future.

Answer off line please.

Will place the order in the next two weeks to give enough time for questions.

Rev it up... for 2012!

Mordy

M.N.Dunst
Gasket Works USA, LLC
www.Headgasket.com
626.358.1616 ph1
626.354.1591 ph2/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax

Triple R Munitions, Inc.
Class 6  Certified F.F.L.
626.201.9471 ph/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax
GMT-8 Pacific


From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jul 19 10:09:24 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:09:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>

I use the stock diaphragm style clutch.  Replaced a very nice dual 
plate Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without 
spinning the tires and breaking all of my motor mounts.  If you are 
making BIG power, the stock setup is kind of iffy.

Tony Drews

At 08:46 AM 7/19/2011, John Hasty wrote:
>What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
>think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
>day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
>thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
>an up-grade......thanks.......
>
>John H. Hasty
>Attorney At Law
>Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
>719 East Boulevard
>Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
>Tele: (704) 372-5600
>Fax: (704) 372-4601
>E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
>www.gdhs.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 19 11:07:36 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:07:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 19 Jul 2011, Tony Drews wrote:

> I use the stock diaphragm style clutch.  Replaced a very nice dual plate 
> Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without spinning the tires 
> and breaking all of my motor mounts.

That Tilton setup was awesome. I loved it!!!

> If you are making BIG power, the stock 
> setup is kind of iffy.

Agreed.

> Tony Drews

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jhouathome at aol.com  Tue Jul 19 11:23:18 2011
From: jhouathome at aol.com (jhouathome at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:23:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>

John,
I have used a Tilton for years on the TR4, and it's way too much.  Total
overkill.  Requires huge pedal effort, and is a real pain around the paddock
and from a standing start.  Nothing ever goes wrong with it, but it's really
not necessary.  I'll convert to a HD stock clutch next time the motor is out.
John Houlton






-----Original Message-----
From: John Hasty <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 19, 2011 9:12 am
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
hink the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
ay on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
hought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
n up-grade......thanks.......
John H. Hasty
ttorney At Law
uthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
19 East Boulevard
harlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
ele: (704) 372-5600
ax: (704) 372-4601
-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
ww.gdhs.com
PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
ntended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
s PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
f you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
issemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
eceived this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
nd its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
egarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
ny tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
s not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
arketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
ddressed herein.
______________________________________________
ot at autox.team.net
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Jul 19 11:52:30 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:52:30 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <4E25C45E.30001@bright.net>

John & list. We have a TR6 clutch disc made for us that is a stronger 
center and heavier gauge metal where friction material is attached.  
Solid center discs, either a single or multi-disc are fine if you are 
willing to live with a "light it and launch it" scenario. But, that same 
set-up, as Tony mentioned, won't live in a situation where you drive the 
car onto the trailer or similar situation that requires slipping the 
clutch. A picture is attached. $129.95 + shipping.  Thanks, Ted


On 7/19/2011 9:46 AM, John Hasty wrote:
> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson&  Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0094.JPG]


From horizonracing at msn.com  Tue Jul 19 11:53:20 2011
From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 10:53:20 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>,
	<20110719160940.E6253187681@autox.team.net>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107191306320.19059@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <SNT141-w25CA4E9521ED797ED36F03B24D0@phx.gbl>

By using a "rally" clutch from tilton,q-master etc , they are designed to take
the heat .....which means they "might" last longer and you can drive your car
into the trailer without smoking the thing. What is Important is to to fit a
clutch limit stop at the pedal to prevent "over centering" the spring in the
pressure plate.  As for the clutch release brg, I have made up a collar to
mount a tilton style release bearing but still uses the stock fork, shaft and
slave cylinder.

:)
Tony


> Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 13:07:36 -0400
> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
> To: tony at tonydrews.com
> CC: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
>
> On Tue, 19 Jul 2011, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> > I use the stock diaphragm style clutch. Replaced a very nice dual plate
> > Tilton with that so I could take off from a stop without spinning the
tires
> > and breaking all of my motor mounts.
>
> That Tilton setup was awesome. I loved it!!!
>
> > If you are making BIG power, the stock
> > setup is kind of iffy.
>
> Agreed.
>
> > Tony Drews
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair |
> Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com


From billb at bnj.com  Tue Jul 19 12:04:43 2011
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:04:43 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<8CE144FAF1CAF37-2148-2D7BC@webmail-d101.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3C19082A-EF0D-49C3-B665-475C01911887@bnj.com>

I use a quartermaster two plate rally clutch. The key to pedal effort and
better control over the vicious hook up is a smaller master cylinder. I think
we're using a .5" or a 5/8. I'd probably go smaller if I could find one. The
smaller MC also makes it easier to avoid overstroking the clutch--you might
not even need a pedal stop, though it's worth making sure if you switch. I use
a saab concentric throwout bearing as well.

Stuff breaks on the stock clutches--at least it did for me. I've broken
Quartermasters too, but only from over-stroking and/or a long season. I ran
one for the entire All Aluminum tour and the year after. It was trashed, but
it never complained.
On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:23 AM, jhouathome at aol.com wrote:

> John,
> I have used a Tilton for years on the TR4, and it's way too much.  Total
> overkill.  Requires huge pedal effort, and is a real pain around the
paddock
> and from a standing start.  Nothing ever goes wrong with it, but it's
really
> not necessary.  I'll convert to a HD stock clutch next time the motor is
out.
> John Houlton


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 12:17:46 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:17:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
Message-ID: <DC80918F9BA24A9599A56824B77D1968@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi Guys, I used a Magic clutch from TRF (Sachs) and got 3+ years out of it. 
The disc went last year at the Glen; tore the center out but it happened 
going out of turn 11 on the last lap and I coasted across the finish line.
I had Ted Schumacher get me a heave duty disc and used a Sachs pressure 
plate, part number SC430. Got the numbers off the old plate. It fits Saab, 
Vauxall, and Austin, by what it says on the box. Got it from my local parts 
store.
It seems to work well and is mild mannered.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hasty" <jhhasty at gdhs.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 9:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch


> What is the wisdom on clutches.   Seems that most of the USA parts 
> suppliers
> think the stock set up is fine and all you need. I've run 5 races and a 
> test
> day on my stock set up with no problems, but now that the motor is out,
> thought I would see if there any suggestions as to whether I should 
> consider
> an up-grade......thanks.......
>
> John H. Hasty
> Attorney At Law
> Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
> 719 East Boulevard
> Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
> Tele: (704) 372-5600
> Fax: (704) 372-4601
> E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
> www.gdhs.com
>
> PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) 
> is
> intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information 
> that
> is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
> If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
> dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
> received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the 
> message
> and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.
>
> IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
> regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated 
> otherwise,
> any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
> is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
> (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
> marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
> addressed herein.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 19 12:40:45 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 14:40:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover
References: <CAJ1+nOStm90+7ZQFSbTzNcm6==8vju33wdetFRomJdi1D5z8Yg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <70199F50635B4C46B52747DB48C65DEF@owner8914bbf7f>

I assume you're talking about intake port spacing.
According to Dr Dave, the literature says CC75000.Sometime in late '71 or 
early '72.
Best way is to measure the distance between ports. Early: 1/2"  Late: 1"
Hope this helps.
Bill
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert bownes" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "FOT" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 10:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] TR6 head cutover


> Anyone remember when the TR6 engine changed port sizes? Year or S/N?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Tue Jul 19 16:16:21 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 00:16:21 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>

I started from pole but a stone hit the radiator.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN3JhFvoC7w&feature=player_embedded

Cheers
Chris


From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Tue Jul 19 20:14:11 2011
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 12:14:11 +1000
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>

i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, but
ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you guys
all want something different. even if we got 2 lots of 5 , it might be
viable. I'll stay in touch with Mordy rather than seek direct replies, as he
has put in the hard yards so far

Terry


From sherryjimmy6116 at att.net  Tue Jul 19 21:16:06 2011
From: sherryjimmy6116 at att.net (sherry robyn)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 20:16:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
Message-ID: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
power 
for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA


From norlinengineering at comcast.net  Tue Jul 19 23:26:49 2011
From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Jim Norlin)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 22:26:49 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E266719.7080003@comcast.net>

I use Porterfield shoes R-4 compound on the Spitfire.

On 7/19/2011 8:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net


From info at dieselperformanceparts.com  Wed Jul 20 06:46:15 2011
From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts - Info)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:46:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help
Message-ID: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B0198B1B@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>

Hey membership,

 Sent this last week and didn't get but one response, can anyone help me on
this??

I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??

Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere on
the part

Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I think??
Gear reduction starter    R-33037
Koni Shocks                 80-1005
Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks to
be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB   Supposedly a
new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
1.88"
Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" Shaft
at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
starter on passenger side
Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" Shaft
has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, mains
are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs)   GA42748HE, by
dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been decked so
no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 367871,
56
Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, RKO,
27B6, 0589
Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area steel
insert, 50-522
Pistons                         17753B
Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to center
is 6.0"
Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???

Thanks so much for any help you can provide.


Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
411 Allied Drive
Nashville, TN 37211
866-455-7788 Phone
615-834-9923 Fax

www.dieselperformanceparts.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 06:58:35 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:58:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>

Jim,

I'm using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red


On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com  Wed Jul 20 07:26:28 2011
From: Spitfire_Racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 09:26:28 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002901cc46e0$a1a02f30$e4e08d90$@rr.com>

Yep, same thing here on the Spitfire.

Russ Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Duncan Charlton
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 8:59 AM
To: sherry robyn
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
shoes

Jim,

I'm using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red


On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com


From mike.mehl at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 07:50:01 2011
From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 06:50:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Use them on my TR4 as well.  


From: Duncan Charlton
<duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
Cc:
fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot]
Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes

Jim,

I'm
using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating greater
friction on vintage racer brakes.

Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:

> I am looking for a good
source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
> power
> for a TR6.  Jim in
Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
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Unsubscribe:
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Jul 20 08:08:02 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:08:02 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help
References: <C22F4A3F0AA3EA488D30A42FC8A4817639B0198B1B@DIESEL-SERVER.dppi.local>
Message-ID: <1341F91FE6054985A52156D068A0E139@Charly>

Hey Mark,
Sorry no one replied to your posting, but try to understand that looking up 
these numbers can be very lengthy trying to find these in all the different 
manuals.  What I usually do is put the part # and a very short description 
into my Google search and see what come up.  I did this with your first item 
307265  V2989   A 1147  and I came up with a link to Rimmer Bros 
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005584
Try this and you might be surprised what you'll find.
Good Luck,
Charly Mitchel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diesel Performance Parts - Info" <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:46 AM
Subject: [Fot] Need part ID Help


> Hey membership,
>
> Sent this last week and didn't get but one response, can anyone help me on
> this??
>
> I got a slug of blocks etc that I need help identifying, can you'll help??
>
> Part                              Numbers that are cast into it somewhere 
> on
> the part
>
> Intake Manifold             307265  V2989   A 1147 aluminum intake I 
> think??
> Gear reduction starter    R-33037
> Koni Shocks                 80-1005
> Trans Overdrive Unit      25/633301    015107     6  875  Laycock Tag info
> Cannon Dual Intake       806  or 908 depends which way you hold it. Looks 
> to
> be an 1300/1500 dual Webber but I don't know.
> Crankshaft                    WDB  W2156  308737   17746N  JOSB 
> Supposedly a
> new never run crank that has been hard chromed Mains are 2.3" and rods are
> 1.88"
> Transmission                 88306468   V3038          10 spline 1.15" 
> Shaft
> at the splines. Has aluminum bell housing with the slave @ 2 o clock and
> starter on passenger side
> Transmission                 88306468  V3038           10 spline 0.90" 
> Shaft
> has aluminum bell housing with slave at 9 o clock and starter on left side
> Block                            311255 (between freeze plugs) FK5785HE, 
> mains
> are 2.44" recessed cylinder bores
> Block                            305380 (between freeze plugs) 
> GA42748HE, by
> dipstick is N111, mains are 2.130"
> Block                            307553 (between freeze plugs), Been 
> decked so
> no deck surface number, mains are 2.44" and the bore is 2.94"
> Head                            6 Port N61 by lifter area, T27, 304955
> Head                            8 port with D shaped exhaust outlet, 
> 367871,
> 56
> Head                            8 port with round exhaust port outlet, 
> RKO,
> 27B6, 0589
> Crane Camshaft            F-244 210-8, BN3437
> Flywheel                       Aluminum with replaceable friction area 
> steel
> insert, 50-522
> Pistons                         17753B
> Carrillo rods                  Big end 2.0", small end 0.810, center to 
> center
> is 6.0"
> Cam bearings                1-363, CSB612, 730883M, 84-25-970
> Push rods                     New chrome moly 6.0" length???
>
> Thanks so much for any help you can provide.
>
>
> Mark Craig
> Diesel Performance Parts, INC.
> 411 Allied Drive
> Nashville, TN 37211
> 866-455-7788 Phone
> 615-834-9923 Fax
>
> www.dieselperformanceparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jul 20 08:08:39 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:08:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:

> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, but
> ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you guys
> all want something different.

Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the 
place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a 
hint about the advantages to whatever the differences are.

I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means 
ultimate reliability.

Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the 
short tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2. 
the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be 
reasonable to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever). 
That might reign things in a bit.

I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on 
that particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Jul 20 08:20:57 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:20:57 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
 shoes
In-Reply-To: <4E266719.7080003@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A6DD480AB3944C5864B6918CC733366@gdhs.local>

You might give Carbotec a call.....877-899-5024  their front pucks are
great.......their stuff is on the net

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Norlin
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 1:27 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake
shoes


I use Porterfield shoes R-4 compound on the Spitfire.

On 7/19/2011 8:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> I am looking for a good source for rear brake shoes with better
> stopping power for a TR6.  Jim in Folsom, CA
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From jhhasty at gdhs.com  Wed Jul 20 08:38:51 2011
From: jhhasty at gdhs.com (John Hasty)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:38:51 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR3/4 pistons
Message-ID: <00F2583BE65841B7AEA4C5DB2A4DDB04@gdhs.local>

Thanks for all the responses on Clutch options.....before I asked I was
ignorant, now I am confused.....Robert's suggestion that if it isn't broke
don't fix it seems to work, but the SPEC Stage 3 looks pretty good as
well.......Now, next question......pistons, flat or pop-up? And what rings?

John H. Hasty
Attorney At Law
Guthrie, Davis, Henderson & Staton, P.L.L.C.
719 East Boulevard
Charlotte, North Carolina 28203-5113
Tele: (704) 372-5600
Fax: (704) 372-4601
E-mail: jhhasty at gdhs.com
www.gdhs.com

PRIVILEGE AND CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message (and any attachments) is
intended only for the use of the addressee and may contain information that
is PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL, and/or may contain ATTORNEY WORK PRODUCT.
If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any
dissemination of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have
received this communication in error, please erase all copies of the message
and its attachments and notify us immediately.  Thank you.

IRS CIRCULAR 230 NOTICE:  In order to comply with certain IRS regulations
regarding tax advice, we inform you that, unless expressly stated otherwise,
any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments)
is not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for purposes of
(i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting,
marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter
addressed herein.


From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Wed Jul 20 08:51:15 2011
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 07:51:15 -0700
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <9445DCA0A3AA4A0B82EA1F4343C07532@Charly>

Well, I might be making things a little more difficult with my request.  I 
need a long tail crankshaft and the flywheels are readily available from 
several sources and several configurations.  If anyone needs a stock 
flywheel for a long butt crankshaft as used in the TR5 and 69 TR6, I have a 
couple I could part with.  I believe the GT6 used the long butt crankshaft 
also.
As for bearings, I use the stock style bearings and for flywheel mounting, I 
can go either 4 bolt with 4 dowels or 8 bolts I guess.  I'd like to have the 
mains cross drilled as well.
With this being said, I'd go for 2 if we can get the price around $2000 or 
less.
Does this help anyone with getting an order together?
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: "Enquiries Road & Track" <enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts


> On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:
>
>> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same quality, 
>> but
>> ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it. It seems you 
>> guys
>> all want something different.
>
> Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the 
> place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a 
> hint about the advantages to whatever the differences are.
>
> I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means 
> ultimate reliability.
>
> Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the 
> short tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2. 
> the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be 
> reasonable to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever). 
> That might reign things in a bit.
>
> I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on 
> that particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.
>
> Or maybe I'm missing something.
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com


From RKramer at rdoequipment.com  Wed Jul 20 08:54:35 2011
From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 09:54:35 -0500
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1107201002180.22390@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <CA511E7D22526C41A7423DF547825A5A53514ED7BC@RDOEX2K7.rdoe.com>

I don't have a TR6 racecar, just a Lemons TR6 but I have interest in building
a real one someday. As the price goes down, my  interest goes up. I've been
collecting parts.

Bob Kramer
Southern Construction Inventory Manager
RDO Equipment Company
16415 N. IH 35  Pflugerville, TX 78660
512-687-7422 Office
512-657-8526 Cell


Things turn out best for the people who make the best of the way things turn
out. ~John Wooden

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 9:09 AM
To: Enquiries Road & Track
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts

On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, Enquiries Road & Track wrote:

> i have told Mordy these can be made a fair bit cheaper for same
> quality, but ideally we need a minimum order of 10 the same, to do it.
> It seems you guys all want something different.

Not trying to be funny here, but if the requested specs are all over the
place, it might be nice to know either a hint about the differences or a hint
about the advantages to whatever the differences are.

I for one would be willing to take a couple of trade-offs if it means ultimate
reliability.

Along those lines, I'm sure one spec difference is the long tail vs. the short
tail. Seeing that: 1. you can't get flywheels for long-tails and 2.
the FACTORY dumped long tail cranks back in the day - it would be reasonable
to say "short tail cranks only" (or long-tail only, whatever).
That might reign things in a bit.

I know that folks run different rod bearings too, but if we all agreed on that
particular mod, would that get us closer to a consensus.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 20 09:14:11 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:14:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] CR
Message-ID: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>

What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a CR can be
run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?

Thanks,
Marty (one race in and I already want to go faster) :)


From kaskas at cox.net  Wed Jul 20 11:54:14 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 17:54:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W5664A8E3DA447F8B777371DF4C0@phx.gbl>

I ran 13.2 for several years with just 100 pump octane gas.  Just be sure to
watch the plugs for detonation. the pistons were factory stock GT-6 which gave
a .040" oversize on the Spitfire.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: trmarty at hotmail.com
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:14:11 -0400
> Subject: [Fot] CR
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a CR can
be
> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty (one race in and I already want to go faster) :)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From triosan at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 12:58:21 2011
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 11:58:21 -0700
Subject: [Fot] TR6 crankshaft topic
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNARfhub9hNz7HMqzt7EDFH0qhq+FRdUeGfw0bz9OL+91Q@mail.gmail.com>

I am getting interested -but would be a short tail.

Charly, have you ever broken a crank?  I have burned several bearings, but
never has a crank broken.  I am using Racestoration's (Daryll Uprichard)
stronger main bearing caps and steel rear main seal holder as well as
aluminum oil pan -- all of which should help reduce risk.

By the way, I met him at a show in the UK in January and he showed me a
forged crank he had had made -- it had been micro polished to almost
absolute smoothness all over -- like an F1 crank.  Could put it in the
engine without pistons, but with the bearings correct, and then could
actually spin it by hand and it rolled like a top.  Would be interesting to
see what it would cost to get these cranks micro smoothed [it was done in
some type of aerospace polisher using a vibrating liquid filled with
triangular shaped microscopic beads].

Chuck

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley


From fasttrs at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 13:09:44 2011
From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 12:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The only
time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I burned a
whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
 
Mike 

From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
Subject:
[Fot] CR

What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
CR can be
run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?

Thanks,
Marty (one race in and
I already want to go faster) :)


From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Jul 20 14:20:49 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 16:20:49 -0400
Subject: [Fot] CR
In-Reply-To: <1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl>
	<1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F91B9647-F71A-4625-B65C-0653C93044EC@seiri.com>

I went to 12:1 in the tr6 and can't keep lands in between rings, so I'm
falling back to around 10:1.

Kas ran @ 12:1 with much better success. But my engines need to last longer.
:)



On Jul 20, 2011, at 15:09, Mike Munson <fasttrs at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The
only
> time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I burned
a
> whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
> Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
>
> Mike
>
> From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
> Subject:
> [Fot] CR
>
> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
> CR can be
> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty (one race in and
> I already want to go faster) :)
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From amrenno1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 20 19:08:19 2011
From: amrenno1 at yahoo.com (Mark Wheatley)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:08:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I am in need of a moldex crankshaft for my tr4 engine. lead time @ moldex is
now 15 weeks.   does anybody have one they are interested in selling? 
New,used, or with an engine block.  open to discussing options.
 
Thanks, Mark
Wheatley   #86 TR-4                            
 
 
 
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
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From gasket.works at gte.net  Wed Jul 20 20:50:56 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 02:50:56 +0000
Subject: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CA+UW8b08Nz+cejYxPUn09UgnQdWYxzVim3z-tjAn8+Q6KDffkQ@mail.gmail.com><1311210499.55458.YahooMailNeo@web125508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1864033592-1311216659-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2018229428-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Contact John frymark.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Wheatley <amrenno1 at yahoo.com>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:08:19 
To: fot at autox.team.net<fot at autox.team.net>
Reply-to: Mark Wheatley <amrenno1 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] tr4 moldex crankshaft

I am in need of a moldex crankshaft for my tr4 engine. lead time @ moldex is
now 15 weeks.   does anybody have one they are interested in selling? 
New,used, or with an engine block.  open to discussing options.
 
Thanks, Mark
Wheatley   #86 TR-4                            
 
 
 
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Jul 20 20:52:57 2011
From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 19:52:57 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
 brakeshoes
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
	<1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>

I have recently been using lining from Porterfield that they call their RD-7 
material. It is green in color. I have found it to work better than the RD-4 
material.
                                                                             
                    Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
To: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>; "sherry robyn" 
<sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 6:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear 
brakeshoes


> Use them on my TR4 as well.
>
>
> From: Duncan Charlton
> <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
> To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
> Cc:
> fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot]
> Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
>
> Jim,
>
> I'm
> using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
> Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating 
> greater
> friction on vintage racer brakes.
>
> Duncan
> (Texas)
> 1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
> On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
>
>> I am looking for a good
> source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
>> power
>> for a TR6.  Jim in
> Folsom, CA
>> _______________________________________________
>>
> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
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>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Wed Jul 20 21:02:23 2011
From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 20:02:23 -0700
Subject: [Fot] CR
References: <BLU160-w19712DE626777FDBD0448CBA4C0@phx.gbl><1311188984.73548.YahooMailNeo@web46109.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<F91B9647-F71A-4625-B65C-0653C93044EC@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <04959EA78E1F482EBB9FAB3E1D80F5CB@TER2>

If you are breakiing ring lands off of the pistons, then you are 
experiencing detonation. Seems like the real answer would be to retard the 
ignition timing &/or richen the mixture.  Running the engine on a dyno and 
finding the proper "tune" for the combination you are using would gain you 
power and reliability.
                                                                             
                                            Greg Solow
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Bownes -Seiri" <bownes at seiri.com>
To: "Mike Munson" <fasttrs at yahoo.com>
Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] CR


>I went to 12:1 in the tr6 and can't keep lands in between rings, so I'm
> falling back to around 10:1.
>
> Kas ran @ 12:1 with much better success. But my engines need to last 
> longer.
> :)
>
>
>
> On Jul 20, 2011, at 15:09, Mike Munson <fasttrs at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I had one TR6 engine with .040 over cast pistons that I  ran at 14:1. The
> only
>> time I had problems was when someone put too lean a main jet in and I 
>> burned
> a
>> whole in number 5. I cut down the mosquito population that day at Road
>> Atlanta. I wear glasses now!
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
>> To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 10:14 AM
>> Subject:
>> [Fot] CR
>>
>> What is the collective wisdom of the FOT masses as to how high of a
>> CR can be
>> run on cast pistons? This would be Spitfire FWIW.  I am at 10.8:1,
>> intentionally kept it low because of the cast pistons.  I have had a
>> discussion with an engine builder telling me I can go much higher.  I am
>> contemplating bumping up to 12:1.  Before I blow something up I thought I
>> would toss it out for discussion. What say ye?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marty (one race in and
>> I already want to go faster) :)
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 20 21:19:34 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 22:19:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
 brakeshoes
In-Reply-To: <D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>
References: <1311131766.77977.YahooMailRC@web180604.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><7495DB7D-FCF1-4F15-AC67-1B62A0FD02A8@gmail.com>
	<1311169801.32378.YahooMailNeo@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<D52D25936EA4441CB5F43C14A581E310@TER2>
Message-ID: <1EF21859-7BB5-4A8A-AFAD-EB5EC1E80429@gmail.com>

Greg,
I asked about RD-7 since I'd seen it in Porterfield's website catalog, but the
person I spoke to on the phone at Porterfield told me they'd discontinued it
with RD-4 as the remaining substitute.
Duncan
(Texas)

On Jul 20, 2011, at 9:52 PM, Greg Solow wrote:

> I have recently been using lining from Porterfield that they call their RD-7
material. It is green in color. I have found it to work better than the RD-4
material.
>
Greg Solow
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" <mike.mehl at yahoo.com>
> To: "Duncan Charlton" <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>; "sherry robyn"
<sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
> Cc: <fot at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 6:50 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear
brakeshoes
>
>
>> Use them on my TR4 as well.
>>
>>
>> From: Duncan Charlton
>> <duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com>
>> To: sherry robyn <sherryjimmy6116 at att.net>
>> Cc:
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 20, 2011 5:58 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Fot]
>> Anyone know a good source for a good stopping rear brake shoes
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I'm
>> using Porterfield RD-4 compound on the Morgan.  The guy I spoke to at
>> Porterfield told me this compound is specifically made for creating
greater
>> friction on vintage racer brakes.
>>
>> Duncan
>> (Texas)
>> 1952 Morgan Plus 4 #6 red
>> On Jul 19, 2011, at 10:16 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
>>
>>> I am looking for a good
>> source for rear brake shoes with better stopping
>>> power
>>> for a TR6.  Jim in
>> Folsom, CA
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate:
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Thu Jul 21 06:49:14 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 14:49:14 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
Message-ID: <000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris


From gasket.works at gte.net  Thu Jul 21 10:38:23 2011
From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 16:38:23 +0000
Subject: [Fot] tr6/gt6 crankshafts
Message-ID: <1629438998-1311266304-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-478462162-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry>

Our crank supplier...will make each Crankshaft to your specification.  They don't mind mixing and matching.  I will be sending to those that have responded a seperate order form and the group "code" to get the group rate.  I will tally the numbers but think we may have ten orders.  You will order what you wish and arrange shipment independently.    I spoke to them this morning. They will be on holiday for two weeks beginning this next week.
 


M


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile


From igofaster at att.net  Fri Jul 22 07:10:51 2011
From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 06:10:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
Message-ID: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

watching these videos posted by MADMARX has to be one of the coolest things we 
get to see on FoT!
Keep 'em coming... great tracks and a better driver!
Bobby Whitehead
(sometimes) GT6+ racer




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 21, 2011 7:49:14 AM
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 22 10:00:14 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 16:00:14 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.29.1638252564.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Thank you for that, i try my very best!
That weekend was disappointing.
In both races start from the first row - and both races no finish.

Race 1: clutch failur
Race 2: stone in radiator

Chris
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Whitehead <igofaster at att.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 06:10:51 
To: MadMarx<tr4racing at googlemail.com>
Cc: FoT Triumph<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

watching these videos posted by MADMARX has to be one of the coolest things we 
get to see on FoT!
Keep 'em coming... great tracks and a better driver!
Bobby Whitehead
(sometimes) GT6+ racer




________________________________
From: MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 21, 2011 7:49:14 AM
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 2 at Oschersleben/Ger

After receiving some mails that the video doesn't work, this is a new made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ez49iPNjoHc


Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 08:59:34 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:59:34 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder
In-Reply-To: <20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>

Maybe you might remember me making these high performance piston seals for
the front calipers.
I have these seals in store if people are interested.

Cheers
Chris


From timmurph at fastbytes.com  Mon Jul 25 10:49:59 2011
From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 11:49:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder
In-Reply-To: <000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
	<000001cc4adb$79aa02e0$6cfe08a0$@com>
Message-ID: <001201cc4aea$e4da3490$ae8e9db0$@com>

We are interested but do not have an urgent need.  We will need this winter
probably.  I'm trying to arrange with some friends in the Frankfurt area to
get the seals from you and pay you and then when my friend from here travels
to Germany he can pick them up and repay my German friends for them.  We can
save the shipping to the U.S. that way.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 10:00 AM
To: 'FoT Triumph'
Subject: [Fot] Brake seals - reminder

Maybe you might remember me making these high performance piston seals for
the front calipers.
I have these seals in store if people are interested.

Cheers
Chris
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com


From klynch_6 at msn.com  Mon Jul 25 12:26:50 2011
From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 12:26:50 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
Message-ID: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>

Perhaps the group can settle this.

If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that has
a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?

b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?

Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!

thanks!

Kevin


From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Jul 25 12:31:18 2011
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 14:31:18 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>

If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
it was nearly 15 years ago...


On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:

> Perhaps the group can settle this.
>
> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
> has
> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
>
> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
>
> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
>
> thanks!
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com


From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jul 25 12:50:11 2011
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 14:50:11 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
	<CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8C7F563E-DB65-4A6C-A178-3AD9904D56DB@me.com>

I'm guessing we are talking about tractor motors.  The sixes have a port on the block below the distributor, in line with the main galley and above the pressure valve from the oil pump discharge, that is filled in at the factory with some soft metal. It can be drilled out and the port re-tapped - takes the NPT end of an AN12 fitting.  That gets plumbed straight to the accusump, so when the 'sump discharges it pumps right back into the galley.  I have a one way valve on the supply or return from the oil cooler, so there's no way oil can go back to the filter.

On Jul 25, 2011, at 2:31 PM, robert bownes wrote:

If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
it was nearly 15 years ago...


On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:

> Perhaps the group can settle this.
> 
> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
> has
> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
> 
> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
> 
> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
> 
> thanks!
> 
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com


From billb at bnj.com  Mon Jul 25 12:56:10 2011
From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 11:56:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Plumbing question
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU151-ds3E598A60E24A78D30A598B7330@phx.gbl>
	<CAJ1+nOTWe1ba=HQgXQMkuV0+aVavDS_-5OYHvkj_UZUZwjLLKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C4825A4A-47F5-4E88-BE48-F9D7385154C2@bnj.com>

I like to go straight to the oil galley, though that requires redrilling and
tapping a galley plug hole. No one way valve required. If you're going to go
to the adapter you need to figure out the flow path--some of them are
different--and tap in where you'll get the most direct feed to the block. You
don't want to go through the filter.
On Jul 25, 2011, at 11:31 AM, robert bownes wrote:

> If you plumb it to an adapter and the filter has a one way valve, put it
> after the adapter. Otherwise, you are going to need a one way valve to keep
> it from backflushing the oil pump when you turn it on to prelube the engine
> before startup.  ISTR putting a one way valve in when I built mine, though
> it was nearly 15 years ago...
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 2:26 PM, KEVIN LYNCH <klynch_6 at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Perhaps the group can settle this.
>>
>> If one wanted to plumb an accu-sump directly from ball valve to motor that
>> has
>> a 'with cooler' type of spin-on filter adaptor.
>> a)Which port would be the one to plumb to or would it make any difference?
>>
>> b)Would you need to introduce a one-way valve to the mix?
>>
>> Just shooting for simplicity here & not the budget!
>>
>> thanks!
>>
>> Kevin
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 12:59:03 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:59:03 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
	<1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000301cc4afc$ed7d2f00$c8778d00$@com>

Here is a different view, race 1.

 

http://contour.com/stories/oleben-race-1-part-1-tr-competition-british-gt-20
11--2


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Mon Jul 25 13:24:13 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 21:24:13 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com><1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>

And my video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsRqTkfAonw

Funny to watch my car in that rear mirror of the TR3.

At a lefthander I went out of road and hit the TR6. I was the naughty guy in
that situation :-(
Better to watch in the TR3 video as my camera came loose from that Morgan
car hit.
We both spun off. He lost his belt drive and I had a clutch failure after.
We both didn't see the finish


From markvaden at gmail.com  Mon Jul 25 14:34:54 2011
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:34:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks
Message-ID: <CAExoegnL+5a=2xJ9cGHzLY0MtT57b1-Ei1B8jA5aMi10VbX9tg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

Does any one know of a good place on the west coast to have lever shocks
revalved for racing? Also I am looking for a place to rebuild my brake
calipers.

-Mark


From philhyer at gmail.com  Mon Jul 25 18:45:16 2011
From: philhyer at gmail.com (Phil Hyer)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:45:16 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
References: <29565.315bda66.3b50fd36@aol.com>
	<001c01cc4661$7e7942f0$7b6bc8d0$@com>
	<022a01cc487f$77b8ada0$672a08e0$@virgin.net>
	<000801cc47a4$99a4e130$cceea390$@com>
	<1311340251.84238.YahooMailRC@web180811.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<20110722160300.0A0A3187895@autox.team.net>
	<000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
Message-ID: <CABLtXDjQOW7fMZSPoV25w08oD6c7h_XFqSs9urVp_yMsad95ew@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 3:24 PM, MadMarx <tr4racing at googlemail.com> wrote:

> And my video:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsRqTkfAonw
>
> Funny to watch my car in that rear mirror of the TR3.
>
> At a lefthander I went out of road and hit the TR6. I was the naughty guy
> in
> that situation :-(
> Better to watch in the TR3 video as my camera came loose from that Morgan
> car hit.
> We both spun off. He lost his belt drive and I had a clutch failure after.
> We both didn't see the finish
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/philhyer at gmail.com


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Tue Jul 26 00:34:50 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 23:34:50 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks
Message-ID: <e5be8cb6f7744f95901bc2c2d5240bf0.gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>

you can prepare the shocks yourself if they are not
leaking.
remove the end cover and the big bolt head that
covers the valve assembly. wash out the inside of the
shock resevoir and pump the lever to clean out the
cylinders. i have used gasoline to do this. do it
outside away from any buildings and source of open
flame. dry them out. unsolder the small nut on the
stem of the valve and adjust the valve tighter by two
turns. shim the larger diameter spring about 1/8
inch. (you can also purchase mg-b competition valves.
i think moss has them in stock. fill the resevoir and
the valve chamber with Castrol R 40 sae engine oil.
This is the old "castorbean based oil" reassemble the
shock and with it mounted in a vise with the vavle
chamber uppermost, work the shock through its full
range of movement 20 or 30 times until all of the air
has been worked out of the system. the arm shock move
smoothly with no "gaps" where there is no resistance
to movement.
  I did this to the lever shocks on the rear of my
morgan +  50 years ago and over 90,000 miles and many
races.  Those same shocks are still on the car, work
well and do not leak! (they are the same size shocks
as are fitted to TR-3 & TR-4 cars.
                                       Greg Solow
\


Greg Solow
The Engine Room
Sports Car Specialists
Santa Cruz, CA 95060
831 429-1800



------- Original Message -------
>From    : Mark Vaden[mailto:markvaden at gmail.com]
Sent    : 7/25/2011 1:34:54 PM
To      : fot at autox.team.net
Cc      :
Subject : RE: [Fot] Revalving armstrong lever shocks

 Hi,

Does any one know of a good place on the west coast
to have lever shocks
revalved for racing? Also I am looking for a place to
rebuild my brake
calipers.

-Mark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

 http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com


From tr6driver at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 26 13:49:13 2011
From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 12:49:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
Message-ID: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised if
we end the race with it looking like this!
 
It's hard to believe we started
with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back in
the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6 was
totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was very
helpful!
 
Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
 
Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to purchase
two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just aren't
quite straight anymore!
 
http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
 
Jamie Palmer
Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing


From barry at penybryn.ca  Wed Jul 27 12:34:59 2011
From: barry at penybryn.ca (Barry Munson)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 12:34:59 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Video - Edmonton Indy Car Support Race
Message-ID: <001301cc4c8b$e61199a0$b234cce0$@ca>

Amici - While I realize that this is not strictly Triumph related ( the TR3
isn't ready yet), I participated in the Eurasia Cup support race at the
Edmonton Indy Car race held here in Edmonton at the downtown airport this
past weekend. The track was reconfigured from last year and is a little over
3 miles long with 13 corners, 2 of which are hairpins, with 3 very long
straights ( with the front straight being almost a mile long - the Indy cars
were topping out at 180-190 mph and this with an acute left at the end). We
put 50 cars on the track which made for some "interesting" moves. The incar
video is from the Subway GT3 Porsche Cup car driven by Peter Spencer,
because of the variety of cars entered - there were 2 British sports cars -
a gorgeous MGB and a Sunbeam Tiger, the closing speeds were phenomenal.

The video starts mid-race (the race was 45 mins. long).

Note the hi tech dash mounted analog g-force indicator...................

Barry.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5-8UWpVIWU


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Wed Jul 27 15:01:10 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 23:01:10 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Video - Race 1 at Oschersleben/Ger
In-Reply-To: <1758391041.236528.1311743957245.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <000b01cc4b00$7175f1e0$5461d5a0$@com>
	<1758391041.236528.1311743957245.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002801cc4ca0$5277c100$f7674300$@com>

Let me add 4 laps of the qualy 1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XeAjCaLU5Q



The first laps I showed the car behind the track, then I tried to do a fast
lap with lots of traffic in my way and the end was the gearbox rear mount
broke.

BUT b P2 on the grid fortunately J



Cheers

Chris


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 06:02:46 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 08:02:46 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <3217AD62A8354D7BBF2569EBD7072614@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 05:07:17 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 07:07:17 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <4EBC3CD662464E9384AC881D511A686F@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck 
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Thu Jul 28 06:18:13 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 08:18:13 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Looking for a set of tappet liners
Message-ID: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>

Ken Gillanders is out of stock at the moment of his tappet liners that neck 
down the TR2-4 .937 tappet bore to .875 for Ford lifters.

Anybody have an extra set they can part with?

Thanks.

 Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com


From yellow04 at tr4racer.com  Fri Jul 29 05:42:35 2011
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 07:42:35 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>

Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin 
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div 
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of 
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the 
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 


From emanteno at comcast.net  Fri Jul 29 06:12:38 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 07:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
	<95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMygsHoRhRGhpZmTBhpUt3m5Nh+woOGvFScyPYAYD-ft6yw@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 6:42 AM, <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:

>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list.
> May I get a second?
>


WOW, Dick Stockton got a computer???!!!

Second.

And welcome, Dick.


From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 29 06:15:55 2011
From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 05:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <1311941755.55480.YahooMailClassic@web125708.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Second; and Dick doesn't need to worry these computer things are just a passing fad.

--- On Fri, 7/29/11, yellow04 at tr4racer.com <yellow04 at tr4racer.com> wrote:


From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
To: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Date: Friday, July 29, 2011, 6:42 AM


Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin 
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div 
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of 
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the 
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com


From ac at camoletti.ch  Fri Jul 29 06:22:25 2011
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 14:22:25 +0200
Subject: [Fot] Seconded:  Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <000901cc4dea$2d181220$87483660$@camoletti.ch>

Thank you Henry (and welcome back by the way...)
Welcome Dick ! Great addition to the list and what a CV !
Alex Camoletti
(from Switzerland, TR3A 1959)

-----Message d'origine-----
De : fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la
part de yellow04 at tr4racer.com
Envoyi : vendredi 29 juillet 2011 13:43
@ : fot at autox.team.net
Cc : stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Objet : [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!

Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list.
May I get a second?

For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an Austin
Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva
MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place
finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving
with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED Div
2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of
Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race of
the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967 American
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 1996.

Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick lent out
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. Did tuning
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken Slagle, Al
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske racing where
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long time employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the
computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ac at camoletti.ch


From REK46 at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 06:23:01 2011
From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:23:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>

I'll second it for sure...knew Dick from when I started racing a TR-250 in  
'68 , at Nelson Ledges.
 
 
In a message dated 7/29/2011 8:09:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellow04 at tr4racer.com writes:

Sorry  about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true  
miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is  
right with the world again...

I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday,  he would like to get on the FOT list. 
May I get a second?

For those  of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
Starting racing  in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an 
Austin 
Healey 3000,  Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva 
MKIV. Triumph  TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place 
finish after  overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving 
with Bob  Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED 
Div 
2nd  (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of 
Group  44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race 
of 
the  season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the  
"Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967  
American 
Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd)  , ARRC 
Pole 
3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra  (CSX2009) NE 
Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan.  Front runner in 
IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid  Ohio 6 Hour 
Class 
A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class  in a Dick 
Stockton 
built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first  professional victory in the 
North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all  of the 90s before buying 
back 
his old TR4 and started vintage racing in  2002. Ran a disco "blue and 
orange" paint scheme until he repainted the  car black in 2008.

Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry  "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime  Rock.

Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he  retired in 
1996. 
Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early  60s. Dick lent 
out 
his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car  there. Did tuning 
work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti,  Ken Slagle, Al 
Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to  Penske racing 
where 
they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also  a long time 
employee.

~~~

While Dick is certainly no newcomer to  the racing scene, he it to the 
computer world. I am not sure he has found  the Reply button yet!

Cheers

Henry
yellow04 at tr4racer.com  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com


From RustyTR4 at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 06:37:04 2011
From: RustyTR4 at aol.com (RustyTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:37:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <a1303.6555ea52.3b640370@aol.com>

I would consider it an honor to have him join our group.
 
Matt Bakes
 
Triumph  Rescue
617 Walnut St.
Bally, Pa. 19503
610-845-8217
_www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) 

British  Wiring
617 Walnut St.
P.O. Box 185
Bally, Pa. 19503
_www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/)  


From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Fri Jul 29 06:37:14 2011
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (william r tobin)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:37:14 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
References: <DE9F7629915E4D0C866C19AF5EF686DA@TRIUMPH.local>
	<95B66DA88C82441A952937D003032C56@TRIUMPH.local>
Message-ID: <A22ACD20B9E14D108E01530C27F6365D@owner8914bbf7f>

Hi, I'll second. Dick's a good guy.
With his history, he should be on the list.
Welcome, Dick
Bill Tobin
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <yellow04 at tr4racer.com>
To: <fot at autox.team.net>
Cc: <stocktontr4 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2011 7:42 AM
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!


> Sorry about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true 
> miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is 
> right with the world again...
>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday, he would like to get on the FOT list. 
> May I get a second?
>
> For those of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
> Starting racing in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an 
> Austin Healey 3000, Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans 
> Elva MKIV. Triumph TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th 
> place finish after overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win 
> co-driving with Bob Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 
> [ 66 NED Div 2nd (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical 
> failure (ahead of Group 44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the 
> last National race of the season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor 
> Corporation trophy for the "Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph 
> competitor at the 1967 American Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 
> (John Kelly Group 44 2nd) , ARRC Pole 3rd place after spinning off 
> track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra (CSX2009) NE Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 
> 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan. Front runner in IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s 
> Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid Ohio 6 Hour Class A winner, and in the 
> same race Buzz Marcus won his class in a Dick Stockton built Toyota 
> Corolla scoring Toyota's first professional victory in the North America. 
> Sat out most of the 80s and all of the 90s before buying back his old TR4 
> and started vintage racing in 2002. Ran a disco "blue and orange" paint 
> scheme until he repainted the car black in 2008.
>
> Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry "Racer" Walsh, Jerry 
> Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime Rock.
>
> Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he retired in 
> 1996. Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early 60s. Dick 
> lent out his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car there. 
> Did tuning work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti, Ken 
> Slagle, Al Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to Penske 
> racing where they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also a long 
> time employee.
>
> ~~~
>
> While Dick is certainly no newcomer to the racing scene, he it to the 
> computer world. I am not sure he has found the Reply button yet!
>
> Cheers
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 29 07:21:52 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 13:21:52 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Message-ID: <mailman.30.1638252564.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Have you ever seen him racing? Man, that's fun to watch!!!
Second!

Chris
------Originalnachricht------
Von: RustyTR4 at aol.com
Absender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
An: yellow04 at tr4racer.com
An: fot at autox.team.net
Cc: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
Gesendet: 29. Jul. 2011 14:37

I would consider it an honor to have him join our group.
 
Matt Bakes
 
Triumph  Rescue
617 Walnut St.
Bally, Pa. 19503
610-845-8217
_www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) 

British  Wiring
617 Walnut St.
P.O. Box 185
Bally, Pa. 19503
_www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/)  
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com



Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Fri Jul 29 07:40:48 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 06:40:48 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Kas cup 2011 you tube link
Message-ID: <001c01cc4df5$20d666f0$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

Finally, got my 2011 Laguna Seca K Cup vid to upload.  I didn't put the whole
vid in as it was really not needed.  I brought the size down from 3.97 gig to
150mb (edited final version).

highlights.


1) TR 250 zooming by me at the start caught me by surprise..  There was barely
enough room and only a top driver could have done that.  Good PASS!
2) Weaving through the infield on lap 1 behind the 250.
3) Watching a certain White Herald driver push his car as hard as it would
go...
4) Although a certain very fast Blue Morgan was just in front of me the entire
race... I did try to pass it at Turn 8/8a.  Always wanted to do a Zanardi>   A
bit reckless but, it was the white flag lap.  It didn't get me closer.

.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuMxGEM2FfI



Mordy

M.N.Dunst
Gasket Works USA, LLC
www.Headgasket.com
626.358.1616 ph1
626.354.1591 ph2/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax

Triple R Munitions, Inc.
Class 6  Certified F.F.L.
626.201.9471 ph/TEXT
626.628.3777 fax
GMT-8 Pacific


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 29 07:41:33 2011
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:41:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 7 lb TR flywheel - For Sale
Message-ID: <CADm3DLH_bMZF_bEf0SV+0Bn=oqP8kq4JXqK5HGR4=K8XYRmKjA@mail.gmail.com>

I have one of the original production run lightened flywheels that Uncle
Jack had produced.  This flywheel has never been used and has been cryo
treated.

Please contact me off list if interested.

Brad


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Fri Jul 29 07:47:22 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:47:22 +0200
Subject: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch
In-Reply-To: <C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>
References: <2FCF732064BC4A6DAE50728F2808C8FF@gdhs.local>
	<C8F039EA998E41688543C20A3CA4923A@Charly>
Message-ID: <001401cc4df6$0da2ac00$28e80400$@com>

I'm thinking about to change over to a Tilton unit with one or two clutch
plates.
Are there any part numbers to look for?
As on Ebay USA they are sold at reasonable prices.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Charly Mitchel
Gesendet: Dienstag, 19. Juli 2011 16:31
An: jhhasty at gdhs.com; fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR3-4 Clutch

John, A lot of the racers I know with TR3, TR4 and TR6 (mine included) are
using a Tilton rally clutch.  They use a 7.25" clutch and disc and aren't
prone to the problems all the others are.  The main problem is the stock
style TR6 clutch (which is what are most adapted to) is that the tabs that
connect the cover to the pressure plate are only made to hold the pressure
plate in acceleration mode and if you down shift or rev the engine with the
clutch disengaged, the tabs will distort or break causing the pressure plate

to get off center.
The other advantage is the weight savings of the rally clutch, about half
the weight.
I've used the Saab turbo version of the TR6 pressure plate and several other

"racing" clutches and all have failed, I've been using the Tilton for about
3 years now with no problems. Quartermaster makes a similar clutch and
contrary to belief, the parts are not interchangeable.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44


From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 29 08:11:23 2011
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 10:11:23 -0400
Subject: [Fot] 7 lb TR flywheel - SOLD
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHQTtMwtkr_zwkE9vag=7o+LwaTggzR47033tR9znhQSw@mail.gmail.com>

 Flywheel has been sold.

Thanks.


From donmarshall at nefcom.net  Fri Jul 29 13:18:42 2011
From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:18:42 -0400
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire/GT6 spring spacers needed
Message-ID: <op.vzealg00airs7i@don-pc.belkin>

Does anyone have a couple Spitfire/GT6/Herald spring spacers sitting on  
the shelf that they'd be willing to part with?  I need to increase the  
ride height of the Spit racer that I'm putting back together after a long  
SCCA career to clear the taller tires for vintage.  I know I can shim  
between the spring retainer and chassis but I may need more distance than  
that will allow so spring spacers may be necessary in addition to shims.   
I'm pretty sure all GT6s came with spacers on the drivers side and  
possibly Heralds as well.  Naturally, I'm happy to pay shipping and a  
reasonable amount for them.  Thanks, Don
--


From kaskas at cox.net  Fri Jul 29 13:27:54 2011
From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:27:54 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
In-Reply-To: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>
References: <c727.18b77e59.3b640025@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-W605C67F9B63AE96E581485DF370@phx.gbl>

Dick Stockton using a computer? Wow, that alone is worth the second or number
fifty for this great guy and racer and my old friend of 50 years.

Never be beaten by equipment
 > From: REK46 at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:23:01 -0400
> To: yellow04 at tr4racer.com; fot at autox.team.net
> CC: stocktontr4 at gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Dick Stockton would like to join us!
>
> I'll second it for sure...knew Dick from when I started racing a TR-250 in
> '68 , at Nelson Ledges.
>
>
> In a message dated 7/29/2011 8:09:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com writes:
>
> Sorry  about the multiple postings, Mark's server wised up as to the true
> miscreant I am, and decided to reject my messages. Mark intervened, all is
> right with the world again...
>
> I talked to Dick Stockton yesterday,  he would like to get on the FOT list.
> May I get a second?
>
> For those  of you who don't know Dick, Bobby Adams sent me this bio.
> Starting racing  in 1959. SCCA National driver in the early 60s in an
> Austin
> Healey 3000,  Formula Jr., Ferrari 500 TRC, Lister-Jag, and Le-Mans Elva
> MKIV. Triumph  TR4 '64-'65. 1965 NE Div. 2nd place, ARRC Pole, 5th place
> finish after  overdrive failed while leading. Glen 500 class win co-driving
> with Bob  Tullius. '66-'68 owner/mechanic for Buzz Marcus's TR4 [ 66 NED
> Div
> 2nd  (Tullius 3rd), top 3 at the ARRC before mechanical failure (ahead of
> Group  44) / '67 2nd NE Div (Group 44 took first at the last National race
> of
> the  season), 2nd ARRC / ]. 1967 Leyland Motor Corporation trophy for the
> "Outstanding mechanical effort by a Triumph competitor at the 1967
> American
> Road Race of Champions". ['68 NE Div 1 (John Kelly Group 44 2nd)  , ARRC
> Pole
> 3rd place after spinning off track).] 1969-1970 BP 289 Cobra  (CSX2009) NE
> Div BP Champ, 2nd 1970 ARRC. 1970, F5000/FA in a Vulcan.  Front runner in
> IMSA RS/Baby Grand 1970s Datsun 510 and Toyota Celica. Mid  Ohio 6 Hour
> Class
> A winner, and in the same race Buzz Marcus won his class  in a Dick
> Stockton
> built Toyota Corolla scoring Toyota's first  professional victory in the
> North America. Sat out most of the 80s and all  of the 90s before buying
> back
> his old TR4 and started vintage racing in  2002. Ran a disco "blue and
> orange" paint scheme until he repainted the  car black in 2008.
>
> Has co-driven with: Bob Tullius, Ken Slage, Jerry  "Racer" Walsh, Jerry
> Truitt, and got John Morton to co-drive at Lime  Rock.
>
> Owned an all makes repair shop in Willow Grove, PA until he  retired in
> 1996.
> Had an engine dyno and did race car prep since the early  60s. Dick lent
> out
> his loft to a young Skip Barber who built his first car  there. Did tuning
> work for many club racers and names like Lou Gigliotti,  Ken Slagle, Al
> Holbert, Buzz Marcus. A few of his mechanics went on to  Penske racing
> where
> they had successful careers, and Jerry Truitt was also  a long time
> employee.
>
> ~~~
>
> While Dick is certainly no newcomer to  the racing scene, he it to the
> computer world. I am not sure he has found  the Reply button yet!
>
> Cheers
>
> Henry
> yellow04 at tr4racer.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net


From jfrymark at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 16:21:38 2011
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:21:38 -0700
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>

I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to  
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very  
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better  
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design  
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html 
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have  
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and  
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes  
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes  
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per  
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original  
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention  
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark


From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 29 17:19:01 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:19:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CE1C5D08BDD967-164C-322E8@webmail-d051.sysops.aol.com>

just a reminder...

with CHRIS MARX's new VITON seal you can have the best of all worlds by
retaining the scroll seal function and add the benefit of the superior VITON
seal.

consider ordering the crankshafts with the scroll seal so you can use the
VITON seal too.

Chris is getting good reports on this viton seal application, and so am I.





-----Original Message-----
From: John Frymark <jfrymark at aol.com>
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 29, 2011 5:43 pm
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft


I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com


From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 29 18:23:32 2011
From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 19:23:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>

John,
Is it too early to determine whether a group buy will result in a discounted
price?
Duncan
(Texas)
1952 Morgan Plus 5 #6 red

On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:21 PM, John Frymark wrote:

> I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
> pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
> specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
> option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
> like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
> ). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
> the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
> contact me off-line.
>
> For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
> additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:
>
> $2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
> balancing.
>
> Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
> Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
> scroll seal flange.
>
> Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge
>
> $100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)
>
> Actual shipping charges for delivery
>
> No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)
>
> 50% Deposit required.
>
> 14 week delivery
>
> Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
> "FoT Deal".
>
> See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.
>
> (They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)
>
>
>
>
> John Frymark
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From jfrymark at aol.com  Fri Jul 29 19:52:54 2011
From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark)
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2011 18:52:54 -0700
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
	<678ED625-C51B-4197-8C9A-6B497A7636CA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <53929CE8-B3FD-42D5-B4E3-79C7865F77C1@aol.com>

Duncan,
If any one person wants to step forward and be financially responsible  
for a several-unit order they should call David. I'm sure he was  
thinking this FOT Deal pricing might bring in "a few" individual  
orders that he can run simultaneously through his operation. His price  
is lower than what Moldex and Crower have quoted and a whole heck of a  
lot less than Racetorations.

John
On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:23 PM, Duncan Charlton wrote:

> John,
> Is it too early to determine whether a group buy will result in a  
> discounted price?
> Duncan
> (Texas)
> 1952 Morgan Plus 5 #6 red
>
> On Jul 29, 2011, at 5:21 PM, John Frymark wrote:
>
>> I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
>> pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
>> specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
>> option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
>> like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
>> ). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
>> the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
>> contact me off-line.
>>
>> For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
>> additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:
>>
>> $2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
>> balancing.
>>
>> Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
>> Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
>> scroll seal flange.
>>
>> Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge
>>
>> $100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy,  
>> Honda)
>>
>> Actual shipping charges for delivery
>>
>> No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)
>>
>> 50% Deposit required.
>>
>> 14 week delivery
>>
>> Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
>> "FoT Deal".
>>
>> See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.
>>
>> (They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> John Frymark
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 12:23:59 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
In-Reply-To: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <180D66AE-40EC-4715-95A3-BDA3E676EF9E@aol.com>

4 hours into VIR we running 24th of 84

God save the queen

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2011, at 3:49 PM, Jamie Palmer <tr6driver at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
> now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised
if
> we end the race with it looking like this!
>
> It's hard to believe we started
> with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back
in
> the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
> Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6
was
> totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was
very
> helpful!
>
> Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
> write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
>
> Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to
purchase
> two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just
aren't
> quite straight anymore!
>
> http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
>
> Jamie Palmer
> Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 12:46:24 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:46:24 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing pre-VIR race report...with pictures
In-Reply-To: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1311709753.71146.YahooMailNeo@web114707.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79B0FFDA-9FBD-4DF6-B882-1C981BEE26EE@aol.com>

4 hrs 35 mins in
22nd place

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2011, at 3:49 PM, Jamie Palmer <tr6driver at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I figured I'd let you folks that are interested see Lacey2 (the car)
> now...BEFORE the 24-hour race at VIR.  I will be both pleased and surprised
if
> we end the race with it looking like this!
>
> It's hard to believe we started
> with a bare, somewhat rusty tub at the beginning of May (look further back
in
> the blog if you're interested) and now are starting a 24-hour race this
> Saturday.  The team has worked very hard to get here...after our first TR6
was
> totalled April 23 at Charlotte.  Among others, Ted S. from this group was
very
> helpful!
>
> Anyway, wish us luck!  There are 84 cars starting the race!!  I'll
> write a report after the race as well to let you folks know how we do.
>
> Thanks for embracing our low-budget racing!  We're going to need to
purchase
> two more FOT decals as the first two were on fenders that...well...just
aren't
> quite straight anymore!
>
> http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com  for pictures.
>
> Jamie Palmer
> Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul 30 13:24:59 2011
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 15:24:59 -0400
Subject: [Fot] TR4A Body Tub
Message-ID: <42F53E1FB27E4C87A2034A32B429F1F2@userb38463fba5>

I have a TR4A body tub with doors and fiberglass rear fenders sitting on a TR6
new body shipping frame (the frame that the big 3 get their TR6 new bodies
shipped from England) available. Some rust in the likely places but never
bent. I've owned the car since 1969. I restored my car with a near perfect tub
from Texas so this is excess to me.
I'd like $500.00 for the tub and shipping frame.
Any interest? I may be interested in selling pieces if no one wants the whole
thing.
I may keep the doors.
JVV


From gasket.works at verizon.net  Sat Jul 30 13:33:10 2011
From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 12:33:10 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Just some history... and some extra color.
Message-ID: <002001cc4eef$847879a0$0401a8c0@hp2572664f9a91>

  I thought I would put down on paper some interesting notes.  You may have
seen the You tube videos that some of the Fot members have posted on 2011 Kas
Cup race at Laguna Seca.

    For those who are not familiar...

  Mr. Jerry Barker (winner of the Kas Cup 2011)  has some interesting
backround... See the links.

  http://www.flickriver.com/photos/27666849 at N04/3369691006/

  His Dad Mr.  Ed  Barker raced with Kas.  You may notice that he was entered
in 1965 Sebring and raced with my Father in Law Mr. Mike Rothschild.

  http://www.racingsportscars.com/driver/results/Ed-Barker-USA.html?page=2

  The Baby Doll Morgan driven by Mr. Greg Solow  has some marvelous history.
Here is a simple link.
   http://www.forbes.com/2002/09/24/0924vow.html

  The TR250K has had some marvelous previous drivers over the years.  One
driver has some interesting history as well, Mr William (Bill) Watkins.   He
is an engineer by trade.  Accomplishments include many but, a couple are sort
of interesting (at least for me).  He engineered the Dysneyland Space Mountain
ride. In fact he received a patent for some of his efforts. He was so into
safety that he would not allow anyone to ride on it until he gave the thumbs
up.
  http://www.fot-racing.com/historic/caption/TR250k.htm
  http://www.mouseplanet.com/7138/DL_Space_Mountain_Part_2


  The second accopmplishement was suspending my Garage roof.  He was in need
of some gaskets for his racer in New Zealand.  He came to me and asked me to
make them for him.    I could not accept any money from him as it was an
honor.   He said that he would not leave until we agreed to a price.  So, I
traded him for engineering work to suspend my Metal Garage Roof so that I had
a clear span.  I told him that I wanted it our of Wood not metal.   He did the
calc's and told me precisely what was needed.  The roof only dropped .125" of
an inch when I finished.

  Currently, the 250k isowned by Mr. Bill Hart and  driven by Mr. Tony Garmey
... Can you very fast.



  Mordy


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 15:08:59 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 17:08:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>

21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
 
we shall keep calm and carry on
 
Jack Mc


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sat Jul 30 17:14:20 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 19:14:20 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
In-Reply-To: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
References: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>

Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:

> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>
> we shall keep calm and carry on
>
> Jack Mc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From jason at multivintage.com  Sat Jul 30 17:43:47 2011
From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 23:43:47 +0000
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <mailman.31.1638252564.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

Use the rain line!
Jason Ostrowski
Friendly Ghost Racing
------Original Message------
From: Jack Mc
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net
To: LimeyV8 at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Sent: Jul 30, 2011 6:14 PM

Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:

> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>
> we shall keep calm and carry on
>
> Jack Mc
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com



Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sun Jul 31 03:21:00 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 05:21:00 -0400
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
In-Reply-To: <05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>
References: <8283.12c8daf7.3b65cceb@aol.com>
	<05539FE1-4DC9-4632-8E46-55157237CE09@aol.com>
Message-ID: <85D07286-4BC8-4535-BC7C-C82E957B79D6@aol.com>

17th @ 5:20 am

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 30, 2011, at 7:14 PM, Jack Mc <LimeyV8 at aol.com> wrote:

> Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart in
19th place on a very wet course
>
> Jack Mc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2011, at 5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> 21st place (84 cars started) 7 hours in
>>
>> we shall keep calm and carry on
>>
>> Jack Mc
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/limeyv8 at aol.com


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 07:23:33 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:23:33 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
Message-ID: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using 
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial 
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I 
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian 
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the 
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal 
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the 
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some 
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end 
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV 
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head 
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to 
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no 
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the 
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com  Sun Jul 31 08:50:09 2011
From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:50:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <D230C37F7F8E467DB2AFF07AFE4CA0B4@latitudefb1e41>

I guess it all depends on the crank dimensions. I have an incorrect crank 
dimension on a
TR4 due to a machine shop error. I sanded down the aluminum pieces to 
tighten up the fit, trimmed the seal and shortened the spring. It still 
leaks but the PO had vented the crankcase to the exhaust pipe and I'm 
thinking that suction keeps it manageable.

Bob Kramer
Volente, TX

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch 
excellence.
Vince Lombardi
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
To: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 8:23 AM
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap


> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
> ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
> ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
> History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using the 
> split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial build 
> I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I packed 
> the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket 
> Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces. 
> Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  I cleaned up 
> the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the shellac in the 
> cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal housing and on the 
> block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the world until it 
> dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some shellac also 
> dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.
>
> This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end of 
> the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  Same 
> assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV on the 
> seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head and 
> pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to the 
> cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly. 
> Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
> from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
> as the last time.
>
> Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
> sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
> with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
> occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no idea 
> what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the shellac 
> and it pours past the felt strips.
>
> TIA
>
> jim
>
> -- 
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer3 at austin.rr.com


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 09:09:24 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:09:24 +0000
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1638252564.13061.fot@autox.team.net>

I never heard that shellac for engines only for music recordings.
I soak the felt in Hylomar or if that is not available in silicone.
As woraround you can try to cover the bearing cap boundings with silicone.

Chris
Gesendet mit BlackBerry von Vodafone

-----Original Message-----
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 09:23:33 
To: fot<fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using 
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial 
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I 
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian 
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.  
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the 
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal 
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the 
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some 
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end 
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV 
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head 
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to 
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped 
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads 
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3 
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), 
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak 
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no 
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the 
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 09:58:38 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:58:38 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <4E357BAE.40707@blacksburg.net>

On 7/31/2011 9:23 AM, J.C. Hassall wrote:
> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
> ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
> ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
Tnx for the responses, here's additional background.  The engine has 
less than 300 miles on a complete rebuild, although the rings should be 
fairly well seated by now (WOT in 3rd, then back off, etc).  The block 
is vented by the usual draft tube, valve cover with the stock mesh 
filler cap.  (The original intent of this car was autoxing, but now it 
seems to be a garage ornament). I have not as yet tied the block vent to 
the exhaust, still trying to figure where to put the venturi downstream 
from the O2 sensor.

My theory is that the shellac is the culprit, since (I believe) it 
should set up hard and stay that way, thus forming an impregnable seal 
with the felt.  What are folks using to soak the felt?

I can't change to Chris' seal, as the crank has been turned to the 2.500 
dimension, balanced and nitrided.  I should consider that a sunk cost 
and just get another crank, but the Navy could have built another 
aircraft carrier for what I've sunk in the ole buggy, so I need to take 
SWMBO for a successful spin first. :-)

j

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 10:10:50 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:10:50 +0200
Subject: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1.1311962401.19350.fot@autox.team.net>
	<B0C8D0C3-056B-4A28-B7ED-A2D2FC4DB050@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002301cc4f9c$6d0e06b0$472a1410$@com>

Sounds very interesting to me.
Especially that you can run the scroll version.
Would be a very good Christmas present.
I'm really tempted.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von John Frymark
Gesendet: Samstag, 30. Juli 2011 00:22
An: fot at autox.team.net
Betreff: [Fot] New Source for TR3/4 Billet Crankshaft

I have been working with Marine Crankshaft Inc. in Santa Ana, CA,, to
pattern and produce a TR3/4 billet crankshaft. They are a very
specialized high-performance crankshaft mfr. The goal was a better
option on price and delivery, and an updated "5 main bearing" design
like Crower and Racestoration's (http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page17.html
). This has been achieved and then some with reduced weight. I have
the initial unit now. I can send pictures if you are interested and
contact me off-line.

For now, the owner has asked me to get word out that he welcomes
additional orders from FOT racers, so here are the details:

$2300.00 includes plasma nitride hardening and dynamic no holes
balancing.

Standard TR dimensions with aftermarket rear seal area at 2.525" (per
Uncle Jack's Engine Building Tips). Call for charge to make original
scroll seal flange.

Rear flange drilled to purchaser's spec at no charge

$100 charge to dimension for Non-standard con rods (i.e. Chevy, Honda)

Actual shipping charges for delivery

No sales tax on orders shipped out of CA (8.75% within CA)

50% Deposit required.

14 week delivery

Orders placed directly with David Eden at cacranks at yahoo.com. Mention
"FoT Deal".

See www.marinecrankshaftinc.com for additional info.

(They also have patterns for Mini and some other vintage engines)




John Frymark
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe:
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com  Sun Jul 31 10:19:45 2011
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:19:45 +0200
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <002401cc4f9d$abb223a0$03166ae0$@com>

I had a look on the property of shellac. It does melt at about 1300C and
does not resist to water and some other chemicals. Engine oil was not
mentioned but as it can be solute in ethanol.

I think that is not a proper sealant for engines.

Cheers
Chris

-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von J.C. Hassall
Gesendet: Sonntag, 31. Juli 2011 15:24
An: fot
Betreff: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap

Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped
~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.

History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using
the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial
build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I
packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian
Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7
1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the block and also on the outside.
I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the
shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the seal
housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good with the
world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current rebuild.  Some
shellac also dripped from the back of the block down the inspection plate.

This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end
of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV
on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head
and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to
the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.
Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped
from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads
as the last time.

Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of),
with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak
occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no
idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the
shellac and it pours past the felt strips.

TIA

jim

--
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com


From colordog.1 at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 31 12:46:52 2011
From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:46:52 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <96EE4A2F-E00F-4A19-B218-67253B6AD4CF@earthlink.net>

i use permatex aviation forn-a-gasket sealant item number 80017. soak the felt
strips for a few days. make sure the mains are align- honed in the block and
double check the crank, and alum seal dimensions.

Steve

On Jul 31, 2011, at 6:23 AM, "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net wrote:

> Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking
("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped ~1/2cup of
oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
> History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm using the
split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On the initial build I
shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon with Uncle Jack. I packed the
grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac
and pounded the life out of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac
oozed into the block and also on the outside.  I cleaned up the inside with
lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin the shellac in the cap).  I put a very
thin film of RTV inside the seal housing and on the block to housing
interface.  All seemed good with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil,
leading to the current rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of
the block down the inspection plate.
>
> This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the end of
the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.  Same
assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more RTV on the seal
housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same Indian Head and pounded them
home again.  I made a special punch which conformed to the cap groove
contours, to ensure that the felt was pounded uniformly.  Shellac oozed into /
out of the block as before.  Shellac also dripped from the hot engine, but
only in a few thin threads, not the thick beads as the last time.
>
> Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 3
sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think of), with
no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last leak occurred last
night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but have no idea what.
HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil thins the shellac and it pours
past the felt strips.
>
> TIA
>
> jim
>
> --
> Jim Hassall
> Blacksburg VA
> '63 TR4 in autox preparation
> 99% finished, 90% to go
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net


From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Sun Jul 31 12:43:36 2011
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 11:43:36 -0700
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>

First you need to determine exactly where the leakage is coming from by 
close examination of the back of the engine and the flywheel. is the leakage 
out of the seal itself onto the flywheel and then covering the front face of 
the flywheel? Is the leakage from the sides of the main cap where it meets 
the block?
    For years we have used "silicone sealer" along with the felt packing on 
the sides of the main cap. We cut the packing into pieces about 3/8" long. 
During the packing process we look for the sealer to come out in a solid 
line beginning at the very bottom corner (as the block is upside down) and 
continuing all the way up to the pan gasket surface. Then we wipe off the 
excess.
    As for the seal itself. I would get a round piece of stock the same size 
as the seal surface on your crank. Fit the seal around that surface with the 
spring in place on the seal. hold the seal in one hand and look at the way 
it fits against the metal surface. Is the sealing lip deflected (it should 
be), you should be able to move the seal radially from side to side up to 
almost 1/8"  and not see light anywhere around the seal lip where it fits 
against the "dummy crank".
    Lastly, it is imperative that the aluminum seal holder halves fit 
tightly against one another while at the same time not holding the rear main 
cap up from seating firmly against the block!  We have seen this situation 
where the cap will not seat all the way down against the block because the 
seal holder is mismachined and when it is bolted to the block and cap, the 
holder faces touch before the cap will touch the block. The center of the 
seal holder must also be nearly perfectly centered on the crankshaft. You 
must use a centering tool of some kind to make sure this is so.
    If you get all of this right, the seal should only leak a tiny bit. We 
have never been able to make this type of seal completely dry as we have our 
Chrysler seal conversion. But without building the size of the crank back up 
you are stuck with the seal you are tying to use.
                                                                             
                        Greg Solow 


From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 31 13:20:45 2011
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:20:45 -0400
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
	<1BA51723445B4C22A52B7041B01387D7@your89d26e0447>
Message-ID: <4E35AB0D.7000406@blacksburg.net>

On 7/31/2011 2:43 PM, Greg Solow wrote:
> First you need to determine exactly where the leakage is coming from 
> by close examination of the back of the engine and the flywheel. is 
> the leakage out of the seal itself onto the flywheel and then covering 
> the front face of the flywheel? Is the leakage from the sides of the 
> main cap where it meets the block?
>    For years we have used "silicone sealer" along with the felt 
> packing on the sides of the main cap. We cut the packing into pieces 
> about 3/8" long. During the packing process we look for the sealer to 
> come out in a solid line beginning at the very bottom corner (as the 
> block is upside down) and continuing all the way up to the pan gasket 
> surface. Then we wipe off the excess.

Tnx Greg, that's what I was looking for.  What "silicone sealer" did you 
use?  I had a thin line of shellac down both sides of the cap and used 
lacquer thinner sparingly to clean it on the inside, left it alone on 
the outside.

>    As for the seal itself. I would get a round piece of stock the same 
> size as the seal surface on your crank. Fit the seal around that 
> surface with the spring in place on the seal. hold the seal in one 
> hand and look at the way it fits against the metal surface. Is the 
> sealing lip deflected (it should be), you should be able to move the 
> seal radially from side to side up to 
almost 1/8"  and not see light anywhere around the seal lip where it 
fits against the "dummy crank".

Yup, did that, even put oil on the "dummy crank" to see if it seeped 
thru ("down") after a few days - it was dry (this after trimming the 
spring and seal again).

>    Lastly, it is imperative that the aluminum seal holder halves fit 
> tightly against one another while at the same time not holding the 
> rear main cap up from seating firmly against the block!  We have seen 
> this situation where the cap will not seat all the way down against 
> the block because the seal holder is mismachined and when it is bolted 
> to the block and cap, the holder faces touch before the cap will touch 
> the block. The center of the seal holder must also be nearly perfectly 
> centered on the crankshaft. You must use a centering tool of some kind 
> to make sure this is so.

That may be an issue, as I put a thin film of RTV on the seal holder 
mating faces as the cap was installed.  After the cap was tight I tapped 
the seal holder along the axis of the cap and tightened it.  The holder 
on the cap was loose-ish, so should not have prevented the cap from 
fully seating, but who knows?  I guess I need to have an alignment tool 
made to key on the journal OD and seal holder ID, just to be sure.  But 
at this point I'm fairly convinced that the problem is the shellac 
turning to goo, as the seal holders are dry.

Another issue could be how saturated the felt strips were.  Steve Belfer 
suggested soaking them for a few days, I only soaked these for a couple 
of hours.  I may have pounded the surface shellac out of them, leaving 
rather dry felt.

>    If you get all of this right, the seal should only leak a tiny bit. 
> We have never been able to make this type of seal completely dry as we 
> have our Chrysler seal conversion. But without building the size of 
> the crank back up you are stuck with the seal you are tying to use.
>                                                                             
>                        Greg Solow
>

Tnx again to all who responded, I'll post results later.

j

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go


From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 31 15:28:14 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 16:28:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
Message-ID: <20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>

Your assembly sounds exactly like mine, and I got it to not leak very 
much this year.  The one change I made (due to a dialog on this forum 
a while back) is to:
1. Make sure that the vent tube that goes through the rear main from 
the rear seal to below the crank is open.
2. Drill two extra 3/8" holes in the rear main cap parallel to the 
built in vent tube on either side of the vent tube.  If you don't 
give the oil any place to go, it will go out the rear main no matter 
HOW good the seal is.

I suspect the above is your issue - you can get a little oil through 
the vent tube (works on the starter) but not a lot of oil through the 
vent tube (doesn't work when engine is running).

The Indian Head Shellac has worked fine for me (and for Uncle Jack) 
for years - that's not your problem.  I do not soak the felt for more 
than a few seconds.  It does come out both sides of the gap between 
the main and the block and is messy.

Also, make sure that you're not really leaking from somewhere else 
like the cam plug or the end of the main oil gallery.  Both of those 
will fill up your bellhousing in no time.

Tony Drews

At 08:23 AM 7/31/2011, J.C. Hassall wrote:
>Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still leaking 
>("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time it dumped 
>~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>
>History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm 
>using the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On 
>the initial build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon 
>with Uncle Jack. I packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of 
>felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out 
>of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the 
>block and also on the outside.
>I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not thin 
>the shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside the 
>seal housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed good 
>with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the current 
>rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of the block down 
>the inspection plate.
>
>This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the 
>end of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
>Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more 
>RTV on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same 
>Indian Head and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch 
>which conformed to the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt 
>was pounded uniformly.
>Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also 
>dripped from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not the 
>thick beads as the last time.
>
>Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter for 
>3 sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could think 
>of), with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this last 
>leak occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, but 
>have no idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot oil 
>thins the shellac and it pours past the felt strips.
>
>TIA
>
>jim
>
>--
>Jim Hassall
>Blacksburg VA
>'63 TR4 in autox preparation
>99% finished, 90% to go
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 31 16:09:15 2011
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 17:09:15 -0500
Subject: [Fot] sealing TR4 rear main cap
In-Reply-To: <20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>
References: <4E355755.3010201@blacksburg.net>
	<20110731212839.567D0187876@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20110731220932.D2007187974@autox.team.net>

To be clear, it's drill two holes, one on either side of the vent tube...

Tony

At 04:28 PM 7/31/2011, Tony Drews wrote:
>Your assembly sounds exactly like mine, and I got it to not leak 
>very much this year.  The one change I made (due to a dialog on this 
>forum a while back) is to:
>1. Make sure that the vent tube that goes through the rear main from 
>the rear seal to below the crank is open.
>2. Drill two extra 3/8" holes in the rear main cap parallel to the 
>built in vent tube on either side of the vent tube.  If you don't 
>give the oil any place to go, it will go out the rear main no matter 
>HOW good the seal is.
>
>I suspect the above is your issue - you can get a little oil through 
>the vent tube (works on the starter) but not a lot of oil through 
>the vent tube (doesn't work when engine is running).
>
>The Indian Head Shellac has worked fine for me (and for Uncle Jack) 
>for years - that's not your problem.  I do not soak the felt for 
>more than a few seconds.  It does come out both sides of the gap 
>between the main and the block and is messy.
>
>Also, make sure that you're not really leaking from somewhere else 
>like the cam plug or the end of the main oil gallery.  Both of those 
>will fill up your bellhousing in no time.
>
>Tony Drews
>
>At 08:23 AM 7/31/2011, J.C. Hassall wrote:
>>Haaaaaalp!  I'm at my wit's end.  The rear main cap is still 
>>leaking ("pouring"?).  In the course of maybe 20 minutes run time 
>>it dumped ~1/2cup of oil and some drips of sealing shellac.
>>
>>History:   This will be the third attempt to seal the leak.  I'm 
>>using the split seal kit with the incorrect crank dimensions.  On 
>>the initial build I shortened the spring to 8 3/8" per a phonecon 
>>with Uncle Jack. I packed the grooves in the cap with 1" pieces of 
>>felt soaked in Indian Head Gasket Shellac and pounded the life out 
>>of them.  Each side took 7 1" pieces.  Some shellac oozed into the 
>>block and also on the outside.
>>I cleaned up the inside with lacquer thinner (carefully, to not 
>>thin the shellac in the cap).  I put a very thin film of RTV inside 
>>the seal housing and on the block to housing interface.  All seemed 
>>good with the world until it dumped LOTS of oil, leading to the 
>>current rebuild.  Some shellac also dripped from the back of the 
>>block down the inspection plate.
>>
>>This time I shortened the spring to 8" and trimmed an RCH from the 
>>end of the seal, ensuring that the ends were parallel and had no gaps, etc.
>>Same assembly technique for the cap and seal housing, but with more 
>>RTV on the seal housing.  I soaked the felt strips in the same 
>>Indian Head and pounded them home again.  I made a special punch 
>>which conformed to the cap groove contours, to ensure that the felt 
>>was pounded uniformly.
>>Shellac oozed into / out of the block as before.  Shellac also 
>>dripped from the hot engine, but only in a few thin threads, not 
>>the thick beads as the last time.
>>
>>Before firing the engine this time I cranked it with the starter 
>>for 3 sessions of 2 minutes each (best run-time simulation I could 
>>think of), with no leaks.  I haven't torn down the engine yet (this 
>>last leak occurred last night).  Clearly I'm doing something wrong, 
>>but have no idea what.  HAAAAAAAAAAAALP!  My suspicion is that hot 
>>oil thins the shellac and it pours past the felt strips.
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>jim
>>
>>--
>>Jim Hassall
>>Blacksburg VA
>>'63 TR4 in autox preparation
>>99% finished, 90% to go
>>_______________________________________________
>>fot at autox.team.net
>>
>>http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com
>_______________________________________________
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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From LimeyV8 at aol.com  Sun Jul 31 16:21:22 2011
From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR update
Message-ID: <8e39.5f7e23b4.3b672f62@aol.com>

The last few hours of the race were really "interesting" - on-line  timing 
and scoring (which most of us were able to follow on our stupid smart  
phones throughout most of the race) went dark in the last hour of the race, but  
we THINK we finished 19th 
remarkable, considering that Sunday morning we
- tore the center out of the left front wheel (Jamie  driving)
- completely wore out the front brake pads and blew a piston out of a  
caliper - replaced both brake calipers in our lengthiest pit stop of the race  
(me driving)
- had a right rear tire go suddenly flat when somebody got close  enough on 
track to shear off the valve stem (Wayne Andrews driving)
 
- oh yeah - we lost the starter before the sun came up on Sunday,  but this 
was a barely a minor inconvenience since the car can be push  started in 
about 3 feet in first gear and I don't believe anybody went off track  bad 
enough to stall the car throughout the whole 24 hours...okay, 27 hours, if  you 
count the track reconfiguration breaks and the lightening delay
 
So - at the end of the event we drove a mostly unscathed, still good  
running car back on the trailer and all went home smiling with a top 20  finish. 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 7/31/2011 11:55:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tedtsimx at bright.net writes:

What is current  status?  It,s been 3 hours since we heard anything.  Great 
job so.  Keep it going.  Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon  Wireless


-----Original message-----

From: Jack Mc  <LimeyV8 at aol.com>
To: Jack Mc  <LimeyV8 at aol.com>
Cc: "fot at autox.team.net"  <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 31, 2011 09:21:00  GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] RiffRAF Racing 24 hrs of VIR  update


17th @ 5:20 am

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul  30, 2011, at 7:14 PM, Jack Mc <limeyv8 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Lightening delay - no power at corner stations - will eventually restart 
 in
19th place on a very wet course
>
> Jack  Mc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 30, 2011, at  5:08 PM, LimeyV8 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> 21st place (84 cars  started) 7 hours in
>>
>> we shall keep calm and carry  on
>>
>> Jack Mc
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> _http://www.fot-racing.com_ (http://www.fot-racing.com/) 
>>
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