[Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank

[Joe Boruch]

You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it.  The
radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack.  You may find that
after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that
you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof.  IMHO spend the
extra $ and get a billet crank.  The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a
very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not
regretted it.  My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed
pistons and Carrillo rods.    Joe(B)

---------- Original Message ----------
From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net
To: fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC)

FoT

I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do

everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then

shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding.

I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve

( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can.

I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also

heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to

the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity

to try Chris's new rear main seal.

Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim G

# 102
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