From tpettenati at yahoo.com Wed Sep 1 12:36:58 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 11:36:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fw: SFR Vintage Thunderhill Sept. 11-12 Message-ID: <668224.40962.qm@web180304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> FYI Looks like San Fran SCCA could use a few more entries, and are waving the late fee. You can also run on Friday Sept 10 with Hooked On Driving in their race prepped group. Using gift code "SCCA2010", drops the entry fee -$45 to $240 for the Friday. See link below. I'm planing on taking the Spit, wife is driving. Anyone else going? Cheers, Tim ----- Forwarded Message ---- Subject: SFR Vintage Classic Schedule & Entry Form Now Available The SFR Vintage Classic Sports Car Festival is less than two weeks away - - September 11-12 at Thunderhill Park. There is still plenty of room in all five grids: Group 1 Small Bore Production Group 2 T/A 2.5 Challenge Group 3 Small Bore Formula and Sport Racer Group 4 Historic Stock CarGroup 5 Big Bore In fact, we really need at least five more entries in each group to insure good racing for drivers, workers and spectators alike. If you have a friend who hasn't entered yet, encourage them to come out and join the fun. SFR is waiving the late fee for all entries received prior to the event. You will find the entry form, schedule and event regulations on the September 11-12 calendar page on www.sfrscca.org Here are the direct links to: Vintage Entry Form September 11-12 Schedule Supplementary Regulations There is also an option for Friday practice time with Hooked on Driving. See September 10 Info If you have already entered, your acceptance letter with complete event information will be emailed to you on Thursday, September 2. Be sure to read the letter! Some schedule changes may be made if entries remain at their current level. For information on car eligibility or car-related questions: Bill Godwin, Vintage Chief - Call (925) 200-7722 vintage at sfrscca.org For entry information or assistance: Region Office - 888-995-7222office at sfrscca.org From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 07:06:55 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 09:06:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Swag Message-ID: Gang, Is there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any interest in badges from FOT members? Chris Sent from my IPhone From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 2 07:51:43 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:51:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD18BD1B85E9FB-1120-C3E9@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> From: Christopher Bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:06 am CHRIS! Badges have been brought up in the past and it would be very cool. It would need a 'champion' to get the badges produced and orders solicited....and distributed. I would be in for two, at least. In the meantime we do have a few FOT DECALS that are available for distribution. I'd like to think we are ready for such a badge after over 10 years of succesful non-organizational operation. Joe A Subject: [Fot] Swag Gang, s there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any nterest in badges from FOT members? Chris Sent from my IPhone ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Sep 2 09:28:29 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:28:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bonneville / Off normal subject Message-ID: Here is a new endevor for you adventurious guys to try. We have the correct size engine to compete with them. Some of you East coast guys my know some of the people on this list. Udo was at Watkins Glen with his Lister- Corvete two years ago during the Historics. R. Johns Udo is white hair guy with the biggest smile, he built this car from scratch in his garage here in Maryland. From: Udo Horn [mailto:vintagethunder at hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:32 AM To: Jeanne Horn; Jack Iliff; Bob Harvey; b thompson Corvette; carbdoctor at yahoo.com; Charles Venable; Dana cadena; Erich Horn; Fred Mullauer; gary barnes; hein frank; Jack Biggs; JD Evans; JEFFREY JACOBS; Jeff sligh; jim allen; jim bartlett; Jim Mullins; Jim Vertichio; John Sabel; John Schell; keith Turk; lyn hodges watts; Marc Mehl; Mark (ROANOKE, VA) Gobble; Mark Ward; Mark Leary; russ eierman; sam moses; steve george; steve kramer; Tammie Boyette; tiff davis; Tom and Tracey Saunders; Tom Falconer; Udo Horn; W Horn; wilton zaiser Subject: FW: b'ville fyi ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: tylertownsley at verizon.net To: vintagethunder at hotmail.com Subject: Re: b'ville Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 21:22:25 -0700 Hello All......Group shot taken at Bonneville impound after we qualified for the G/GMS record (2 liter engine, normally aspirated on gasoline...120 cubic inches). The following morning we backed up our run and set the record at 178.835 mph. http://deliquescence.net/~tyler/misc/bv1.jpg From budscars at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 10:32:01 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 09:32:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES References: <8CD18BD1B85E9FB-1120-C3E9@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: "Badges!!...I don't got to show you no stinkin' badges!!" (:>) Racer Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:51 AM Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES > From: Christopher Bock > To: FoTTriumph > Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:06 am > > CHRIS! > > Badges have been brought up in the past and it would be very cool. > > It would need a 'champion' to get the badges produced and orders > solicited....and distributed. > > I would be in for two, at least. > > In the meantime we do have a few FOT DECALS that are available for > distribution. > > I'd like to think we are ready for such a badge after over 10 years of > succesful non-organizational operation. > > Joe A > > Subject: [Fot] Swag > > > > Gang, > s there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any > nterest in badges from FOT members? > Chris > Sent from my IPhone > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Sep 2 16:08:41 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 08:08:41 +1000 Subject: [Fot] FOT BADGES Message-ID: how do i get a FOT sticker or 2 for the race car?? terry Australia From seacubeco at aol.com Thu Sep 2 20:24:05 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 22:24:05 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> Message-ID: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> >>> Amici >>> >>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>> >>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>> >>> >>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>> >>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>> 40 piece minimum order. >>> normal price with out the fee is: >>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>> >>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>> good deed for the FOT community. >>> >>> $30 per badge >>> >>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) >>> include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>> >>> >>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by >>> then I will refund everyones money. >>> >>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>> >>> >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >> > = From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 21:41:00 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 23:41:00 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Message-ID: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? From norlinengineering at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 22:24:16 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 21:24:16 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> Message-ID: <44F6D5DCD7C34CF2BCF6D8B1F1B09FB9@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Dang this is going to get expensive. I've not only got to buy a badge bar, I've got to by a street going Triumph to mount it on. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Christopher Bock Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:24 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion >>> Amici >>> >>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>> >>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>> >>> >>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>> >>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>> 40 piece minimum order. >>> normal price with out the fee is: >>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>> >>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>> good deed for the FOT community. >>> >>> $30 per badge >>> >>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include >>> your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>> >>> >>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then >>> I will refund everyones money. >>> >>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>> >>> >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >> > = _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 22:33:52 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 00:33:52 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <1A1B3D4B-425C-418C-B6C6-099CCD676E31@aol.com> 3 badges are committed to. I was just informed that the art work didn't show in the email. I was going to use the FOT coat of arms that is on the webpage. Chris Sent from my IPhone On Sep 2, 2010, at 11:41 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici > > I am willing to champion this cause........ > > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > am thinking of a 3 inch badge. > > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > > The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > I will refund everyones money. > > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > > > Chris > > P.S. what about banners or flags? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 3 05:33:00 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 07:33:00 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Chris, Excellent! I would be in for (4) of them. We should agree on the configuration and artwork. I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. If you are on this list you should consider participating. The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect of our TRIUMPHS in racing. Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the 60s. (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. Thanks! -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 3 07:08:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 09:08:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] CHRIS MARX' VITON REAR CRANK SEAL- 20 pieces in the mail Message-ID: <8CD198046CC3541-1CD4-FD40@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Chris says the seals are in the mail from Germany to Jesup. There are 20 of them, until the next shipment Those who have already paid may have to nudge me. I think 10 are spoken for already The last cost number I got from Chris was $66. No mark up here. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Modified Scroll Seals are available on an exchange basis from me. The new Scroll Seal Centering tool with correct dimensions is also available from me. The Scroll Seal Centering tool will also be available through major distributors like BPNW Picture of centering tool is at: photobucket.com/ambro ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From tr6driver at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 07:15:10 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 06:15:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <858416.74961.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Count me in for 1 Jamie ________________________________ From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" To: SeaCubeCo at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 3, 2010 7:33:00 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Chris, Excellent! I would be in for (4) of them. We should agree on the configuration and artwork. I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. If you are on this list you should consider participating. The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect of our TRIUMPHS in racing. Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the 60s. (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. Thanks! -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 3 08:17:09 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:17:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi, Count me in for two. Do you want to paypal the $$$ now or can we wait 'till you have the artworkready? rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 10:39:03 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:39:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Put me down for one. Jim G # 102 From billb at bnj.com Fri Sep 3 11:01:11 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:01:11 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Badges In-Reply-To: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2DED91E3-F85E-4237-8466-9668CE29999E@bnj.com> I'll take two From garygret at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 3 11:26:54 2010 From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:26:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Sep 3 12:08:15 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 14:08:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <470937.31218.qm@smtp101.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> One for me Paul MacDonald -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of christopher bock Sent: September 2, 2010 11:41 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com From REK46 at aol.com Fri Sep 3 12:34:55 2010 From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 14:34:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Message-ID: <3f2d5.6570cb37.39b299cf@aol.com> I'll take one...rick In a message dated 9/3/2010 1:57:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, garygret at sbcglobal.net writes: I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 13:03:41 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:03:41 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: I will need 3. If my kids get on craigslist again, this could go up! Ty ------Original Message------ From: Jim Gray Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Badges Sent: Sep 3, 2010 9:39 AM Put me down for one. Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 13:16:12 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:16:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01cb4b9c$78e07b30$6aa17190$@net> I'll go for one Craig Frederick, MD -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Schneider Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 1:27 PM To: christopher bock; FoTTriumph Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wensley_tr at comcast.net From chasgee at aol.com Fri Sep 3 13:19:53 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 15:19:53 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD19B41F22BDCE-2134-94C0@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Chris, Thanks for doing this. I'll take 2, but will go to 4 if you need the quantity to make the order. Paypal on its way. Chuck Gee -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com From jsnook at wcnet.org Fri Sep 3 13:32:13 2010 From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:32:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: <005b01cb4b9e$b5ae5c10$210b1430$@org> I'll take one. Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com From gwizracing at cfu.net Fri Sep 3 13:32:32 2010 From: gwizracing at cfu.net (Gary Wiezorek) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:32:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> I'll take one. Gary Wiezorek Christopher Bock wrote: >>>> Amici >>>> >>>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>>> >>>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>>> >>>> >>>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>>> >>>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>>> 40 piece minimum order. >>>> normal price with out the fee is: >>>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>>> >>>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>>> good deed for the FOT community. >>>> >>>> $30 per badge >>>> >>>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) >>>> include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>>> >>>> >>>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by >>>> then I will refund everyones money. >>>> >>>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Chris >>>> >>>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >>>> >> = >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gwizracing at cfu-cybernet.net From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 15:45:06 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 17:45:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6EECD1750D164B7D84239CD030CE9ADD@INSPIRON> Cris thanks for the effort put me down for 2. Can this company make patches for a fire suit form the same art work. I would take 2 of those as well thanks rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 7:33 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each > Chris, > > Excellent! > > I would be in for (4) of them. > > We should agree on the configuration and artwork. > > I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. > > If you are on this list you should consider participating. > > The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect > of > our TRIUMPHS in racing. > > Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the > 60s. > > (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) > > The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. > > Thanks! > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: christopher bock > To: FoTTriumph > Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm > Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each > > > Amici > I am willing to champion this cause........ > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > m thinking of a 3 inch badge. > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > will refund everyones money. > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > Chris > P.S. what about banners or flags? > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 3 16:28:25 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 18:28:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: Amici, So far I have commitments for 40 badges and payments for 10. I know there is more people on the list that are interested. This might sound like me being a money grubbing a-hole but without the money the badges will not get done. There is still plenty of time to get the money in. Thank you to all I will keep the list posted with what is going on Thank you again Chris Bock On Sep 2, 2010, at 11:41 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici > > I am willing to champion this cause........ > > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > am thinking of a 3 inch badge. > > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > > The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > I will refund everyones money. > > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > > > Chris > > P.S. what about banners or flags? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From budscars at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 17:55:46 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:55:46 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fw: United States Grand Prix Message-ID: The organizers of the United States Grand Prix have unveiled the design of the all-new track in Austin, Texas. The Formula 1 circuit will host the USGP beginning in 2012 and is scheduled to continue until 2021 http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/09/new-circuit-unveiled-for-u-s-grand-prix/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of moz-screenshot-3.png] From stlnyc at msn.com Fri Sep 3 19:54:49 2010 From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:54:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cline cam Message-ID: Amici- Does anyone have any information for a Rick Cline cam #289-6? Fred Hodgson From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 06:48:10 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 08:48:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump Message-ID: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of it. Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it into the engine? Thanks, Bill From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 4 07:53:23 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 09:53:23 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> GOOD ONE! Sean would like to install one in #197. -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 7:48 am Subject: [Fot] accusump Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of t. ny advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it nto the engine? hanks, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Sat Sep 4 08:45:12 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 10:45:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <5F517281-1239-4F00-8081-0C554971BD8D@aol.com> I believe that all depends on the car and engine bring used. That little bit of extra info might help My friend has his tank next to him where the other seat would be with a manual switch to turn it on and off. It is plumbed into the block at the oil filter. His engine was produced in a way that there was an external oil line from the rear of the block to the oil filter. It is a MGB 5 main block. Just make sure you have the check valve in the correct direction. Chris Sent from my IPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 9:53 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > GOOD ONE! Sean would like to install one in #197. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 7:48 am > Subject: [Fot] accusump > > > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > t. > ny advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > nto the engine? > hanks, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 4 09:35:10 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 09:35:10 -0600 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: Mine is mounted on the shelf behind the seats. Avoid mounting it in the trunk behind the axle. I put mine there The first time and it was enough to cause oversteer where I didn't have oversteer before. I moved it behind the seats and balance returned. My car is street legal with two seats or I would have probably put it on the right side floor toward the rear. I used AN - 10 line right to the oil Galley on the left side of the block. Jim g #102 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 6:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's > version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to > plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From fasttrs at yahoo.com Sat Sep 4 10:42:26 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:42:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <5A0F7162-8BCE-4D30-A792-5F20C084128F@yahoo.com> I have mine plumbed into the boss directly above the pressure regulator on the side of the block. Mike TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 7:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 4 11:18:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 12:18:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <20100904171736.F3E56187649@autox.team.net> What Jim describes below is what I consider to be a best practice (plumb it directly in to the oil gallery, use large tubing). I too have mine mounted on the shelf behind the seats so I could fit a passenger seat. Mine is plumbed into the oil cooler / filter return line using a T fitting and there is a check valve in the oil cooler line before the T fitting so that it won't push oil in the wrong direction. That's usually the 2nd best alternative plumbing, but can be more expedient to install. One thing to think about too is a manual actuation ball valve vs. the electric valve. Mine has an electric valve which means that I don't forget and leave it open when I shut off the engine (it's one of the things powered by the ignition switch). I have a separate switch (secondary to the ignition switch) so that I can turn on the ignition without turning the Accusump on, and I can shut the Accusump off on the cool down lap while at high revs / high pressure. I have an older style electric valve - the newer style ones behave oddly. I believe that they don't flow a lot of volume when filling the accusump but DO flow a lot when emptying it, but am not as familiar with that. - Tony Drews At 10:35 AM 9/4/2010, Jim Gray wrote: >Mine is mounted on the shelf behind the seats. Avoid mounting it in >the trunk behind the axle. I put mine there >The first time and it was enough to cause oversteer where I didn't >have oversteer before. I moved it behind the seats and balance >returned. My car is street legal with two seats or I would have >probably put it on the right side floor toward the rear. >I used AN - 10 line right to the oil >Galley on the left side of the block. > >Jim g >#102 > >Sent from my iPhone > >On Sep 4, 2010, at 6:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" > wrote: > >>Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's >>version of >>it. >>Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to >>plumb it >>into the engine? >>Thanks, Bill From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Sep 4 15:45:20 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:45:20 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <4C82BDF0.6010308@charter.net> Bill I have a 3 qt accusump mounted on the tunnel next to the seat. Easy reach for the ball valve and the 10 AN hose that runs to a T in between the remote oil filter and cooler and the filter bypass plate. I also use a check valve in the circuit. I considered running the line directly to the oil gallery (plugs on the side of the engine) but had hardware issues. My installation is on a 1.3L Spitfire. Good Luck Glenn On 9/4/2010 8:48 AM, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 15:56:37 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:56:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump Message-ID: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. Andre, great photos, thanks. Now to order all the bits I need. Thanks again, Bill From cartravel at pobox.com Sun Sep 5 09:06:07 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:06:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <4C83B1DF.4030101@pobox.com> I never got around to installing one in my TR3, but I was thinking of using a small one in the engine compartment. I believe Greg Hilyer has his there. You may want to consider these pressure drop calculations to help determine the hose size. 20w-50 oil at 212 deg F flowing 2 gallons per minute (that's 15 liters/min Chris) through a 10 ft length of AN 10, 8 or 6 hose will drop 0.9, 2.3 and 6.4 psi (6.2, 16 and 44 kPa), respectively. You'd probably have more pressure drop in the valves and fittings than you would have in AN6 hose. 2 gpm would empty a 1 1/2 quart accusump in 11 seconds. I have asked many people the flow rate from a typical oil pump and no one seems to know. Makes me wonder about these high flow oil pumps. "How much does it flow?". "Oh, I don't know." Larry WILLIAM TOBIN wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 10:00:35 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:00:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks Message-ID: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a shock threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the gas peddle. Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have to be soaked threw out for this to happen Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would correct this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the information So if your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send it again thanks rob From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Sep 5 10:31:31 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:31:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <000c01cb4d17$cd8c4660$68a4d320$@com> Is this eligible to shift OD with short currents over the body? To shift the OD I have two lines: One over a relays and the second current is controlled by the relays. So no big Amps on my shift knob. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rob Gesendet: Sonntag, 5. September 2010 18:01 An: FoT Triumph Betreff: [Fot] Atype od shocks In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a shock threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the gas peddle. Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have to be soaked threw out for this to happen Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would correct this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the information So if your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send it again thanks rob _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 5 10:39:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:39:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <19c201cb4d18$eed0b440$0301a8c0@randall> > Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that > would correct > this. Why not just replace the switch with one that doesn't have the handle shorted to the contacts? Randall From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 13:23:49 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:23:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <28EF5C63-E822-40A9-AB16-DCC13A8C65C9@comcast.net> It would be a great driver training aid if you could get the brake pedal to do that all the time. Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 5, 2010, at 10:00 AM, "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> wrote: > In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a > shock > threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the > gas peddle. > Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have > to be > soaked threw out for this to happen > > Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would > correct > this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the > information So if > your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send > it again > thanks rob > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 5 08:57:40 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 07:57:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] 13 inch tires Message-ID: <22032980.1283698660139.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi FOT, I'm in the market for 4 or 8 used 185 60 13. I am trying to run a race with HSMA at Coronado and they don't except my Yoko R6 or Toyos R888. Anyone have a set of used Vintage TDs, Goodyear, Avon. They want to sell. Thanks Joe Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sun Sep 5 17:30:06 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:30:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Driving Suit Message-ID: <4E5A59A8-2931-44ED-A490-F15017075C55@wi.rr.com> FoT, Will be placing a driving suit on ebay so thought I would share it with the group first. It is a Simpson two-layer, size large suit. It was owned by Ralph Kent-Cooke of Cooke Woods Racing and dates from approximately 1981. Please contact me off-line if interested. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Sun Sep 5 20:57:31 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:57:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S Message-ID: <1F9B9ED5-3E32-4BE3-9BB4-C9EF576CC3C3@aol.com> Amici, I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that I will not use. I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I have the parts for both doors. I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. If anyone is interested please contact me off list From spitlist at cox.net Sun Sep 5 23:35:42 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:35:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S In-Reply-To: <1F9B9ED5-3E32-4BE3-9BB4-C9EF576CC3C3@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> It would help to know which model Spitfire they are for. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Christopher Bock Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:58 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S Amici, I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that I will not use. I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I have the parts for both doors. I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. If anyone is interested please contact me off list _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 6 07:27:48 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:27:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S In-Reply-To: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> References: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: I think you might be to right on that one. You mean the rest of you can't read my mind or know what car I have? Parts are from a 75 spitfire Chris On Sep 6, 2010, at 1:35 AM, "Joe Curry" wrote: > It would help to know which model Spitfire they are for. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Christopher Bock > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:58 PM > To: FoTTriumph > Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S > > Amici, > I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that > I > will not use. > > I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I > have > the parts for both doors. > > I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. > > If anyone is interested please contact me off list > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From walt at hot-tr6.com Mon Sep 6 11:09:29 2010 From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:09:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Hi there all FOT guys. is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Thanks Walt Hollowell Abq., NM _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter . SPAMfighter has removed 111080 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try free scan! From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 6 11:40:13 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:40:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question In-Reply-To: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> References: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4C85277D.4000107@bradakis.com> > is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? > No. 4.5 x 25.4 = 114.3 mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 11:44:45 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:44:45 -0700 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question In-Reply-To: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> References: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1c2401cb4deb$320e6a90$0301a8c0@randall> > is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Assuming you are talking about wheel studs, the answer is NO. The bolt circle is 4.5" or 114.3mm. Randall From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 6 12:07:40 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:07:40 GMT Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <20100906.140740.27266.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> It is 4 X 114mm or more precisely 114.3mm. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Walter Hollowell" To: Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:09:29 -0600 Hi there all FOT guys. is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Thanks Walt Hollowell Abq., NM _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter . SPAMfighter has removed 111080 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try free scan! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c852e066d0f2a359f3st02duc From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Sep 6 12:55:30 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:55:30 EDT Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <1de8f1.204b66ec.39b69322@aol.com> I believe the 4x100mm is a Fiat pattern and seems to be infinitely more common than the 4x98 the small Triumphs use. Can't imagine what the bigger TR's use. From awashatko at wi.rr.com Mon Sep 6 13:49:56 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:49:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Rotor Message-ID: <6776E111-B641-4FB6-85AC-39BB380D56BA@wi.rr.com> FoT, I have one TR6 Brembo brake rotor that has only one race on it. If anyone is interested, please let me know. Thanks, Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Mon Sep 6 14:44:13 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 06:44:13 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Triumphs racing in australia Message-ID: for anyone interested, some pics & video of 2 recent race events can be seen at http://www.roadandtrack.net.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=43&Itemid=41 about 150 of us are gathering all next week for the annual TSOA national meeting, which includes 2 competition events. I'll upload some pics from that soon after Terry O'Beirne From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 17:44:12 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:44:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Andre, Please send photos to Sean, too. seanax at iowalaser Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. Joe -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm Subject: [Fot] Accusump Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. ndre, great photos, thanks. ow to order all the bits I need. hanks again, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From timmurph at fastbytes.com Mon Sep 6 17:45:34 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:45:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake Message-ID: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend I got to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or the TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is one of the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track configuration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared to the current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the DP lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit faster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find that information now. Just curious. Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Mon Sep 6 17:52:22 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:52:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 Message-ID: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> Now that I've finally got my fuel injection problems solved, I've been driving the TR5. I've noticed that the OD does not disengage right away at times. I changed the transmission oil to 30W ND from the 80-90 gear lube that I think was in there, at least it smelled and looked like 80/90. Still have the problem. At times it will disengage right away and at other times it might be as much as 10 to 15 seconds before it disengages. I'm familiar with the problem of not engaging, usually the solenoid valve and if not that low pressure. But I've never had the slow disengagement problem nor have I seen anything on it. I suspect that the ball valve is not seating all the time and I have some residual pressure causing the problem. That or the spring on top of the ball valve is either broken or weak. Any insights and suggestions would be appreciated. I haven't taken the tunnel cover off yet but from underneath it appears that the operating lever is completely free when the solenoid is released. Thanks, Tim From andre at gt6.ca Mon Sep 6 18:20:14 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:20:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Sure Joe. As requested. http://www.124racer.com/setup_oil_system.html While not TR related. The ideas are universal. I've not installed the hardware yet, but I'm looking forward to doing it this winter. Have to mount the alternator on the other side of the engine. I will be locating the sump behind the removable passenger seat. Going with an electronic valve because I have it, but from what I've read the manual valve might be better. I'm running a 2qt model, but a 3 again might be better. Good luck. Hope this helps. A. On 6 September 2010 19:44, wrote: > Andre, > > Please send photos to Sean, too. > > seanax at iowalaser > > Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. > > Joe > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm > Subject: [Fot] Accusump > > > Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. > ndre, great photos, thanks. > ow to order all the bits I need. > hanks again, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca > > > -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 18:20:26 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:20:26 -0400 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake In-Reply-To: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> References: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> Message-ID: <8CD1C399A915B3F-121C-290E9@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Tim, I have it somewhere and remember it as being 2:59.8 or so. It is a ten year anniversary book from Road America so the content is credible. I think it was set by Jim Spencer, who was a Wisconsin TRIUMPH dealer who also drove for the factory team at the 12 HOURS OF SEBRING. (NOTE: SPENCER brought back the winning SEBRING TR4. I procured it for Keith Files and Keith plans to take it back to it's original Sebring configuration) Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Tim Murphy To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 6:45 pm Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend I ot to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or he TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is one f the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track onfiguration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared to he current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the P lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit aster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find that nformation now. Just curious. Tim ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 18:24:53 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:24:53 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1C3A39D1F8DF-121C-29178@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> egads! great detail! good material for Kas' next book. -----Original Message----- From: Andre Rousseau To: n197tr4 at cs.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net; seanax at iowalaser.com Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Sure Joe. As requested. http://www.124racer.com/setup_oil_system.html While not TR related. The ideas are universal. I've not installed the hardware yet, but I'm looking forward to doing t this winter. Have to mount the alternator on the other side of the engine. I will be locating the sump behind the removable passenger seat. Going with an electronic valve because I have it, but from what I've ead the manual valve might be better. I'm running a 2qt model, but a 3 again might be better. Good luck. Hope this helps. A. n 6 September 2010 19:44, wrote: Andre, Please send photos to Sean, too. seanax at iowalaser Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. Joe -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm Subject: [Fot] Accusump Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. ndre, great photos, thanks. ow to order all the bits I need. hanks again, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca -- ndre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca ttp://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ 68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ 515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ ttawa, ON, Canada From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 18:26:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 17:26:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 In-Reply-To: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> References: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> Message-ID: <006801cb4e23$5669b060$0301a8c0@randall> > I've noticed that the OD does not disengage > right away at One common cause is a bit of swarf stuck in the tiny hole near the bottom of the valve operating shaft. Lots of folks enlarge the hole anyway, for faster downshifts and less likelihood of getting clogged. The good news is that you don't have to disassemble the unit, just remove the transmission tunnel and plug. While you're in there, wouldn't hurt to replace the valve ball, and tap it into it's seat. Without meaning to reopen the fluif wars, I really love the Redline MT-90 in my A-type. Both synchro and OD operation are noticeably crisper than with motor oil, IMO. Randall From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 20:03:58 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 22:03:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Thanks for Participating In-Reply-To: <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> References: <54A292AB168B421788336F99D49C43DC@main> <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> Message-ID: <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Below is from Barry Munson...one of our Canadian FOT. This was his response to Bill Rinke, race organizer, who sent out a 'thank you' to all participants. Success cant be measured in the number of entrants. The FOT has an excellent reputation. It was further advanced by the TOPEKA EXPERIENCE. AND, sitting on the grid for the Kastner Cup was an emotional experience. It was an orchestrated emotional experience. NATIONAL ANTHEM with two vintage aircraft side by side trailing smoke and pealing off at precisely the right moment along with drum rolls from the Topeka HS Band. We might have been on the grid at the Indianapolis 500. Thanks for being there with us, Barry. We will be looking for you and your TR3 when it is ready. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Barry Munson To: 'Bill Rinke' Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 8:35 pm Subject: RE: Thanks for Participating Bill b Ibve delayed sending you this because I know that youbve been bombarded with e-mail messages. Man that was one unbelievable event b absolutely superb facility, well organized and run event, great just great people. I would do it again in a heartbeat. My goal in coming was to experience vintage racing, learn a new track, to meet people who are usually on the other end of an e-mail string and, of course, really appreciate the essence of what FOT is b its members. All expectations were met in spades. It was also special to be able to spend some time with you and Dottie, that meant a lot. The attachment is entitled bhome away from homeb because that is how I felt and is also a reminder that a very appreciative Canadian with a Volvo was there. Thanks again. Barry. From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 6 20:58:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:58:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Thanks for Participating In-Reply-To: <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> References: <54A292AB168B421788336F99D49C43DC@main> <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C85AA58.5080408@bradakis.com> > AND, sitting on the grid for the Kastner Cup was an emotional experience. > Someday soon perhaps I'll get to experience the feeling first hand. One memory I will take to the grave, which luckily did NOT happen two weeks ago, was attending the Mid Ohio event in 2002, the 50th anniversary of the "Sporting Triumph" Along with many other fans and friends I was in the stands at the last turn before the finish line. The air was full of chatter and anticipation as we all waited for the field to come around on the pace lap. As they came into view, it got REAL quiet all of a sudden. Well, not on track, but as the cars in the Kastner Cup race came around that last turn to take the green dead silence in the bleachers, all eyes on the cars. And the dry eyes in the crowd could have been counted on the thumbs of one hand. I've certainly got emotionally involved in driving a race, that was perhaps the one time I got even more emotional about just watching. I wanted to be in Topeka. mjb. From triosan at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 04:30:58 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:30:58 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. Annotated photos are available at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > Andre, > > Please send photos to Sean, too. > > seanax at iowalaser > > Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. > > Joe > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm > Subject: [Fot] Accusump > > > Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. > ndre, great photos, thanks. > ow to order all the bits I need. > hanks again, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From riverside at southslope.net Tue Sep 7 09:31:44 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:31:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake References: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> Message-ID: <001901cb4ea1$c77e1060$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> per the " first 10 yearsof Road America " book: Jim Spencer, 6/21/64 2:59.2 - Pretty close Joe!! art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 6:45 PM Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake > With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend > I > got to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or > the TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is > one > of the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track > configuration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared > to > the current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the > DP lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit > faster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find > that > information now. Just curious. > > > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Sep 7 09:39:59 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:39:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Heartland Park More Photos Message-ID: <4C865CCF.8030502@pobox.com> Better slow than never. I took a bunch of photos, with the new camera that I'm still learning to use. These were shot with a telephoto and a wide field of view to capture the action. I then cropped every photo. That's my excuse for why it took so long. Unfortunately, some are a bit fuzzy. Sorry, if there weren't very many of your car. I tend to favor my mates. I'll try to do better next year. -Larry http://www.flickr.com/photos/53707928 at N02/sets/ From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 09:52:37 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:52:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil the system can rob. I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as > others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: > Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to > thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to > Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 > lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. > > Annotated photos are available at: > http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# > > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > >> Andre, >> >> Please send photos to Sean, too. >> >> seanax at iowalaser >> >> Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. >> >> Joe >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: WILLIAM TOBIN >> To: fot at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm >> Subject: [Fot] Accusump >> >> >> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. >> ndre, great photos, thanks. >> ow to order all the bits I need. >> hanks again, Bill >> ______________________________________________ >> ot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums >> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Sep 7 10:29:34 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:29:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... FWIW Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 11:52 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil the system can rob. I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as > others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: > Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to > thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to > Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 > lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. > > Annotated photos are available at: > http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# > > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > >> Andre, >> >> Please send photos to Sean, too. >> >> seanax at iowalaser >> >> Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. >> >> Joe >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: WILLIAM TOBIN >> To: fot at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm >> Subject: [Fot] Accusump >> >> >> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. >> ndre, great photos, thanks. >> ow to order all the bits I need. >> hanks again, Bill >> ______________________________________________ >> ot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums >> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 10:44:31 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:44:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Peyote In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <15F3A927-E7B6-47AB-B5DD-4EC17FE127EA@bnj.com> Incidentally, Peyote was amazing this weekend at the Columbia River Challenge. What a car. The race was rather sparsely attended, 130 cars I think, which makes NO sense, it's a great event with so much track time people actually bail on the last race. SOVREN has settled into what seems like a nice easy relationship with the All British Field Meet, enhancing both events. I'm tempting the gods by bragging about how flawlessly Peyote runs now that Tony Garmey and his Horizon Racing guys take care of it, but it simply does. I haven't had so much as a hiccup all year. Plus it's as pretty as it's ever going to get. Somehow, with no change to the engine, tires, suspension and a little more weight it's faster. I was turning high to mid 1.29's consistently. That's about two seconds a lap faster than my previous record. Two seconds!! I have no idea how this happened. Like most things with Peyote it's a little mysterious. But there's really no doubt in my mind that having it maintained by a guy with the high standards Tony has is the real key. When I get in the car I know it's ready (though I still have to check some things, just to satisfy my mental tics). Since none of the really fast cars showed up in group one, and Cameron Healy's Pooper is still laid up after a wreck, I switched to the big bore group. Lots of guys to play with there--mustangs, XKEs and corvettes, a Lola T70, bunch of 911's and BMWs, and in the last two races, Cameron Healy's 908 and a McLaren. I started in the back since I didn't have a time with the group--qualified in smallbore--and passed my way up to tenth. In the next race I had a long, very fun battle with a Javelin and two 911s that held me up a while, but I finally got loose and chased down the Jag. Almost had him in the last lap, but we came up to lap Charlie who was struggling with problems in his TR6 and I chose the wrong side to try to pass on and lost a step. Still almost got him, but he would have blown by me in the back straight anyway. In the fourth race I gridded fifth and got by the Jag in the run to the chicane and pulled out a nice lead. Got chased down by Cameron in his 908 who was starting in the back somewhere and the T70 who was also back there, so I finished fifth. The last race was uneventful, gridded fourth, got to watch Cameron's beautiful car for a little while, and then just drove clean laps, staying just ahead of a 911 that was going nutz trying to catch me. I had an extra second or so in the bag but he didn't know that. Not nice to tease the Porsches... but it's fun. On Sep 7, 2010, at 8:52 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't > much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause > problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use > a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless > you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from > the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil > pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times > equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that > pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. > > The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil > the system can rob. > > I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a > line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the > accusump. > On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 10:58:50 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:58:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <22C31961-BE55-442D-8162-C95AA442DDA4@earthlink.net> I installed a 2 QT Accusump in the trunk of my TR3. A better location would be the rear "Seat" but I didn't feel like relocating my firebottle and I have a passenger seat. I used -10AN hose and run the T-fitting and check valve. This is temp because I intend to plumb it straight into the oil gallery. (My other motor is ready to go with this fitting installed.) I use the EPC valve which works fine. This whole thing is just an insurance policy, plus it pressurizes the system while starting the car. I recommend you call the people at Canton racing products and ask them any questions if you have any. I did this and found them to be very helpful and friendly. ~Steve From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Wed Sep 8 05:35:16 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 07:35:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and WC Dentinger Jr Message-ID: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> Your payments have been received Thank Chris From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 22:05:46 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:05:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could References: Message-ID: <1F43F79C-877E-48E3-A16D-C81E3F57DD6B@earthlink.net> Sorry. That should read .7 not 1.7 > , back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 > seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 7 12:08:01 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:08:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up > through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 7 18:07:19 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:07:19 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 In-Reply-To: <000001cb4ede$8c51abe0$a4f503a0$@com> References: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> <006801cb4e23$5669b060$0301a8c0@randall> <000001cb4ede$8c51abe0$a4f503a0$@com> Message-ID: <1f5301cb4ee9$ce8a0790$6b9e16b0$@rr.com> > Question - in drilling out the port are you concerned about the chips > falling into the overdrive? I'm sorry I was not clearer, Tim. The port I was talking about is located in the valve stem itself, so you simply pull the stem out (using a magnet or bent paper clip) to make the mod. Clean it afterwards, so no contamination to the OD. It's also kind of tricky to drill, so it's probably better to use a small grinder (Dremel). There is a photo of a modified stem at http://tinyurl.com/286t7wq (Not my photo, don't recall where I got it. If anyone recognizes it as theirs, please let me know and I'll be happy to give due credit.) When the OD disengages, the valve stem drops, which opens the top of the stem to the oil. The oil from the pistons then has to run out through that port (and the clearance around the stem) for the OD to disengage. Triumph also used to recommend motor oil for the A-type ODs, there was even a 1954 service bulletin saying to use only motor oil if OD was installed. (Although oddly enough, they specified detergent oils, like Shell X100.) But somewhere around 1960, they changed to requiring GL4 in both OD and non-OD gearboxes. Supposedly that was because they were seeing too many failures of the thrust washers in the gearbox (which are a weak spot). But if it works for you, then certainly you should use it. -- Randall From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 10:03:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 09:03:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Concur regarding the positive displacement pump acting as a fairly effective check valve. I do not have a check valve in my system and precharging to 35-40 psi off of the 1 1/2 qt accumulator is no problem. The only thing the check valve would improve on in my opinion is if you have a leak from a hose, cooler, oil filter, etc or if the pupm drive breaks. A 25psi idiot light is the only thing that may help then. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 AM Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the > thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 7 18:28:33 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 00:28:33 GMT Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock Vintage Festival Message-ID: <20100907.202833.95.1@webmail03.dca.untd.com> Congratulations to Dave Spiwak for his victory at the Lime Rock fall festival. I heard that he took 1st in his first race and 3rd in his second race. Nice driving. My son was working in timing and scoring and did not give me any details. Perhaps others can better fill in the blanks. Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From igofaster at att.net Tue Sep 7 18:51:21 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:51:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> Message-ID: <481634.24386.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I'm down for two stickin' badgers.... Bobby Whitehead ________________________________ From markvaden at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 18:36:38 2010 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:36:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Message-ID: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 12:32:57 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:32:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC7F7C7B2C7-830-5B36@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD1CC7F7C7B2C7-830-5B36@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <111FD8A9-792D-416B-B843-65630C76EDFE@bnj.com> Of course. The question is "does that matter". Given all the resistance to backflow of the pump and all the other stuff, and the fact that we're directly lubing the bearings that we care about, my answer is "not much". The way you use the accusump is you open it up, see the oil light go out, and start the engine. You have pressure on the bearings and you backfill all the passages from the gallery to the pump. When you punch the start button the pump starts turning and backflow stops. Your bearing have oil under pressure from the time the valve opens. Check valve or no check valve. The other mode is that something makes your pump stop working--you break an oil pump drive or suck air. In that case the accusump is generally at full pressure and delivers oil for a pretty long time. You have more than enough time to shut the motor down or for the oil to drop back down in the pan and the pump to start working again. Accusump includes a check valve (imho) because most people plumb to the oil cooler line, and you need all the flow you can get to make that useful. Going straight to the gallery you just don't need to optimize the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 10:19 AM, Fubog1 wrote: > yes you are going to see the pressure that is in the accusump, but part of the volume is going to go back through the pump, until the pump starts working... > Glen > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net > To: Fubog1 > Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com; fot at autox.team.net; billb at bnj.com; triosan at gmail.com > Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 1:14 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > I don't see that, when I release oil to the motor ( pre- start up ) I see full pressure > on the gauge according to what it was when I shut it off the last time. I think the pump acts > as it's own check valve in a way. > > Jim G. From andre at gt6.ca Wed Sep 8 11:04:49 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:04:49 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> References: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: WRT to the check valve I thought the point of it was when you open the accusump for pre-oiling it forces the oil towards the engine and not back into the oil cooler & filter. Which could push junk in the filter backwards? A. On 8 September 2010 12:03, Norlin Engineering wrote: > Concur regarding the positive displacement pump acting as a fairly effective > check valve. I do not have a check valve in my system and precharging to > 35-40 psi off of the 1 1/2 qt accumulator is no problem. The only thing the > check valve would improve on in my opinion is if you have a leak from a > hose, cooler, oil filter, etc or if the pupm drive breaks. A 25psi idiot > light is the only thing that may help then. > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 AM > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > >> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back >> up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the >> thing... > > But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards > through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly > small? > > Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into > the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the > galleries? > > This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still > don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up > ... > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca > > > -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From igofaster at att.net Tue Sep 7 19:07:12 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 18:07:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 Message-ID: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 11:32:33 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 13:32:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), I would prefer that the charge go where it is supposed to go ie the bearings., and let the oil pump do what it does. If a system isn't prone to sucking air, then the accusump becomes less critical, in that respect. Also when cold starting, before the engine is turning, there is a lot of restriction on the bearing side because the oil ports are not likely lined up, ie not much bleed. Just as a matter of interest I have 2 oil pressure gauges in my spit, one for running and the other for accusump. When I used to run F prod with slicks, guaranteed every lap coming out of #2 at palm beach, the main pressure would drop a tad & then the accusump would kick in, just for a moment until the oil pump got things sorted out... JMHO Glen -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 2:08 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up > through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 11:42:45 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 13:42:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] test no content Message-ID: <8CD1D9461912B37-1B94-16B2@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> just checking, email is doing some weird stuff I know... aol sux... sorry From lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 11:52:13 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:52:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: References: , <1F43F79C-877E-48E3-A16D-C81E3F57DD6B@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3CE76256-7763-4F35-A1D5-E40CFAEFD256@earthlink.net> Hello All, This is a reference to a post I sent that was over size limit and is awaiting Mark's magic wand. Henry - my 1:35.134 last October dethroned Jerry Rahal's Lotus best of 1:35.853 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 8, 2010, at 11:30 AM, wrote: > What is the Vintage Production Lap Record these > days?........................Cheers Henry > > > From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net > > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:05:46 -0600 > > To: fot at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could > > > > Sorry. That should read .7 not 1.7 > > > > > , back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 > > > seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., > > > > > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > > TR4 #314 > > > Albuquerque NM From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 11:54:15 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:54:15 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <062E0C64-E2C2-4E63-BB2E-199CC368B7F6@comcast.net> They want 38-40 hot pressure. Yor cold temp depends on the track and altitude. In Colorado I start out at 33 front and 31 rear to arrive at 39 hot. At Topeka I had to go 36f & 35r cold to get to 39-40 hot. At Topeka on Friday I used my colorado cold pressures and I was over 8 seconds off the pace with hot pressures of 36f & 34r. Over Saturday and Sunday I got em up to40 Front & rear and times fell to low 2:01s & 2:02's. Unfortunately I was supposed to have afresh set waiting for me in topeka but we know the story with that. I took tire temps too which was interesting in itself but I have IRS so temps do more for me than for a live axle car. Jim g #102 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 7, 2010, at 6:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same > thing) tires, > and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? > > Thanks, > Mark > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From ikorey at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 11:58:29 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 12:58:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 8:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? > Joe? Ted? > Bobby Whitehead > I got some from Moss Motors for the TR6. Don't know if others carry them or not. HTH, Irv Korey From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Sep 8 12:00:32 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 14:00:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT BADGES In-Reply-To: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> References: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1D96DD98EC96-240-963@Webmail-d122.sysops.aol.com> thanks for doing this....it is great statement. i just paypaled for 4 of them. is there a picture or description of an example? regards, joe -----Original Message----- From: Christopher Bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 6:35 am Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and WC Dentinger Jr Your payments have been received hank Chris ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From mpendy at dishmail.net Wed Sep 8 12:01:54 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:01:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> <19c201cb4d18$eed0b440$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <361E768E14E64BB3A35351EF9C91235D@Pendys> I don't think that anyone has brought this up, but i would hope that you are switching the ground and NOT the power wire, this would take care of the problem, for instance, ever wondered or noticed why most typical horn circuits switch the ground???....Just my 2 cents worth. MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'FoT Triumph'" Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Atype od shocks >> Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that >> would correct >> this. > > Why not just replace the switch with one that doesn't have the handle > shorted to the contacts? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net From s.janzen at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 12:27:10 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:27:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> PRI has some great ones that I have been using for several years. You can get several assembly/disassembly cycles out of them. They are some sort of thick, grey, very dense material. He does not always have them in stock, however. On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 12:28:37 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:28:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <84B724F9-8867-4C92-AB30-B9DE5CFBDB45@earthlink.net> Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From billbab at me.com Tue Sep 7 12:34:21 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 11:34:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Accusump References: <19670BED-3602-4240-8117-9B918A0FA4F1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <9E99B9DD-128B-4A43-A2D3-A8884CDC1978@me.com> Oops, too long Begin forwarded message: > From: Bill Babcock > Date: September 7, 2010 9:51:15 AM PDT > To: Fubog1 > Cc: triosan at gmail.com, seanax at iowalaser.com, fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Not significantly if you go in through the gallery. If you're in the cooler line, sure, but if not, not so much. The bleed down rate for the Accusump is pretty slow, restricted as much by the small gallery hole as anything else, but it maintains more than 20 pounds of engine oil pressure measured at the gallery for at least 30 seconds. That's all I want. That and the ability to pre-oil the motor before each start. > > On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Fubog1 wrote: > >> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... >> FWIW >> Glen From harmug at us.ibm.com Wed Sep 8 14:40:42 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 16:40:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, -Limerock Results In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Vintage Festival results. I was having fun until I blew a head gasket. http://www.limerock.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=107&Itemid=107 thanks mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 15:21:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:21:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If > it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't force oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). It acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of their race motor? -- Randall From fasttrs at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 15:37:30 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:37:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> Message-ID: <760780.68035.qm@web46103.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bobby, What Scott said. I coat mine with Hylomar so they will release for reuse. Mike To: Bobby Whitehead Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 1:27:10 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 PRI has some great ones that I have been using for several years. You can get several assembly/disassembly cycles out of them. They are some sort of thick, grey, very dense material. He does not always have them in stock, however. On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Sep 8 15:48:06 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 17:48:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 8 Sep 2010, Randall wrote: [stuff deleted] > I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil > pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally > last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a > requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of > their race motor? If you have $$,$$$ in your race motor, do you really want to know if the pre-oil makes a difference? Most folks I know that race out of pocket think $300-$500 for an accusump is a heck of a lot better than $10k for a new block, cam, crank, etc. etc. Plus it looks kool. :-) > -- Randall regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 15:50:07 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:50:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <2122430D-7D08-4BFA-B29F-C3449F2DE368@earthlink.net> > Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally > last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem > like a > requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the > life of > their race motor? > > -- Randall I tend to agree and that's why having it under the hood in the [former] battery box works for me. I turn it on, leave it on, and it's one less thing to forget. Also minimizes the length of expensive line. I've got a hunch that most cockpit or trunk mounts will cost more in braided S/S line than the Accu-Sump itself. I do leave it loaded with the valve closed when it's going to be parked for awhile... and Maybe I'll remember to open it before the next cold start. > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 15:52:09 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:52:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <84B724F9-8867-4C92-AB30-B9DE5CFBDB45@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hoosier has a fact sheet on these tires on their website that tells how to break them in and how to set baseline pressures. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Belfer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 11:29 AM To: Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 16:04:25 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:04:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DB8EF82054A-2058-416E@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> I suspect that the pump is a considerable bleed when it is inop ie initial charging of the system, before it is spinning. I don't see it as a check valve at that point, sorry to disagree. Generally speaking (typing), one of the biggest, if not the biggest cause of wear in an engine in service is "dry" starts. The 1500 spit/midget engine with certain oil filter/housing configurations is the perfect example. I agree that an engine in good shape, and not driven hard (ie street engine), would benefit little, if at all, from an accusump. Race engines need all the help they can get. My intent in posting about this was not to start a debate. I simply saw information posted that contradicts normal practice, & my personal experience using accusumps for a long time, and I wanted to offer some additional thoughts on the matter... Glen -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 5:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If > it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't force oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). It acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of their race motor? -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From bswope959 at msn.com Wed Sep 8 16:17:47 2010 From: bswope959 at msn.com (Bill Swope) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 16:17:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Car badge Message-ID: How do I order one ? From chasgee at aol.com Wed Sep 8 16:42:38 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:42:38 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DBE45F1542A-6C0-4E16@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com> It absolutely extends the life of my race motors. There are corners at certain tracks that have a tendency to expose the pump pick up regardless of how good the pan baffling. This is where the accusump shines. Without it, I'd go through a lot more motors, and I go through too many already. The pre-lubing is nice, especially after the car has sat a while between races. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 2:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't orce oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). t acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil ressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally ast many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a equirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of heir race motor? -- Randall ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 17:38:09 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 23:38:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Good point on the break in. I was getting the R6's from Tire Rack already heat cycled. As far as I know Tire Rack doesn't offer the SM6 and Hoosier does not heat cycle tires. It has to be done properly or the life of the tire will be cut significantly. The abreviated version is...two medium laps, two hot laps and then get them off the car or off the ground to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norlin Engineering" To: "Steven Belfer" , "Mark Vaden" Cc: "FOT Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2010 3:52:09 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Hoosier has a fact sheet on these tires on their website that tells how to break them in and how to set baseline pressures. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Belfer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 11:29 AM To: Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve B :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) B tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 18:12:45 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:12:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G" FWIW - After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: Heat cycle a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 with -1/2deg camber up front. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:30:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:30:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm running 2 1/2 degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle cars do need to run the higher pressures. Jim Norlin -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G" FWIW - After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: Heat cycle a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 with -1/2deg camber up front. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:30:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:30:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I just checked the Hoosier web site and the link I refered to earlier is broken. However, I found a copy at the following location: http://www.racetire.com/products/tctips.htm#Tire Pressure Recommendations For Competition If you read down far enough you will see this: "Independent rear suspension With IRS and proper geometry up front, tire pressures can be reduced from the recommendations listed above. When there is adequate camber gain and good roll control, the Hoosier radial tire will perform very well at the reduced air pressure. This results in a bigger "sweet spot" and easier control at the limit. When tuning at reduced pressures use the following formula to determine the minimum safe pressure: Divide the total vehicle weight, including fuel and driver, by 100 to arrive at the minimum safe pressure. Example: Your car weighs 2750 lbs. as raced. The minimum safe (cold) pressure is 27.5 psi." This is a far cry from 40 psi in a 2000 lb car. I started out at 26 with my 1700 lb Spitfire cause that's what I ran with my old Yokohamas. I've finally settled on 17-18 lbs cold. Far more grip than at 26. Take it for what it's worth, but it works for me. Jim Norlin From atr6racer at hotmail.com Wed Sep 8 19:40:55 2010 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:40:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FW: GT6 racer on ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This has been on ebay. I don't know the car, but it sounds well built. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Triumph-GT6-Vintage-Race-Car-_W0QQcmdZVie wItemQQhashZitem3f02f7047eQQitemZ270632682622QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ 5fLegalQ5f From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:55:22 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:55:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net From atr6racer at hotmail.com Wed Sep 8 20:29:48 2010 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 22:29:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race car for sale Message-ID: Must me my night for finding Triumph race cars for sale. Got this link from a good friend of mine. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/triumph/1272287942/1272287942pp.htm This one is a TR6 that has never been raced. Just thought I'd pass it along to the group. Sam Halkias From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 20:48:40 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:48:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> Message-ID: Not with the Hoosiers. I've just been monitoring the tire wear, which is very even. I'm getting around 8 weekends out of a set of tires with the grip level being good the whole time. I'm seeing some extra wear on the outside of the fronts and have been considering increasing the camber to 3 or better as you have done. -----Original Message----- From: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 6:55 PM To: Norlin Engineering Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; Mark Vaden; FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 21:14:14 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:14:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Message-ID: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? Thanks, Ernie From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 8 21:30:52 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:30:52 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] Team.Net hiccups Message-ID: <20100909033052.17FFE2E0A6@bradakis.com> Yes, the lists have been acting funny today. There was a loss of connectivity to the world for about 24 hours, so email was delayed and web pages were unavailable. I do apologize for the inconvenience. mjb. From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Sep 8 21:45:04 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 23:45:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> who all is going and where are you staying? i may leave rv home and find motel. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Husmann To: FOT Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? hanks, rnie ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 21:10:35 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 21:10:35 -0600 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could Message-ID: The Plum Pi finally gave the death rattle. A lap from the end of Connie's race last Saturday she "sensed something" and brought it in although the temp and pressure were OK. The rod knock didn't start until idling thru the pits. Had I been driving I'd probably have a puzzle-piece bottom end. It's actually been a open secret that I've been insisting on Connie doing more driving as a means of extracting every bit of borrowed time that the poor thing has been on since Portland. Funny thing is that my procrastination on last winter's scheduled rebuild actually allowed Chris Marx to develop the sealing fix I've been waiting for. So I just went thru the log books. This is the re-incarnation of the engine I built in '05 - the Mahle pistons have never been out of their bores. The current build got some track time and one race before Watkins Glen. Then Brainard, back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., Topeka and back home. And all the races in between. Total of 13 race weekends and about 5 light testing days. In hindsight it wouldn't have made it thru Topeka if Connie hadn't done her share of the driving. And BTW - Heartland was her first race off of our home track at Sandia. She had a blast did a great job in my book, including being pretty aware of passing traffic and point byes. She's a natural for seeing the line but just has a more prudent approach to our TRactors than I do. My question from awhile back was a honest inquiry. I was wondering what sort of duty others are getting from stock but messaged internals. The first incarnation would actually see as high as 7200 rpm and lived. I had that crank mag'd and it wasn't until it was re- checked after cryo treatment that the crack was detected. I'm convinced that the treatment brought the crack to the visible surface and saved me from "the big one". On the tear-down of that 7000+ rpm version I found the timing chain to be stretched enough to retard the cam close to 8 degrees. Next [this] time around I used a virgin, un- ground crank, crack checked it, did the Kas treatment of stress relieving, lightening and polishing, cryo'd it, crack checked it again and polished journals to -.0001. I tried a clue from the previous lesson and retarded the cam [Isky 666. Looking forward to a LY] 4 degrees and used a better chain [BPNW]. This engine saw 6800+ on the over-run but was all-in for any power by 6500. Anyone listening from the fence at Topeka knows what I mean about "over-run" in my downshifts... Might even have touched 7k in the last turn of Topeka. I really like driving with the rear end and my car really won't do much of that on-"power", mostly on the other side of the curve. I never intended to get max output from my set-up. I'd just get addicted to it at the expense of longevity. Thus the original short runner manifold [great conversation starter - "you know they made a ...."], original untouched carbs [Henry Fry and I took the original, round, solid brass float needles out in Portland - I still owe you a pair of needles Tony G] no trumpets, no heat shield, no nothin'. Points ignition done Kas' way to a gnats ass. Head looks to be nicely done [by some unknown other ] and I gave the chambers my treatment to get the compression down to the 10.6:1 I thought I could get away with. Ignored the common [and good] wisdom and left the head gasket [Payden composite] hanging over into the chamber and no relief notches in the sleeves. CC'd +/- .5 cc. I've never subjected it to a dyno but always thought I MIGHT be in the 130+hp range. To my surprise, a friend just built 148hp with this basic spec. So my big question is: How nuts am I in thinking I might get a bit more for Laguna Seca? I've got a really nice 12:1 head on the shelf that I've never had the guts to install. I'm sold on the Mahle's and will do them again. Forged anything is not in the plan. On a side note and to my surprise, a few have asked for the whole Topeka saga. To my surprise because I'm never sure if anyone reads or wants to hear my drivel. For those that don't, start lookin' for the delete button. The "inland freighter" is a 53' Haulmark enclosed car hauler. Picked it up in Tulsa this spring and brought it home to Albuquerque. Got a '91 Dodge 1 ton, turbo diesel, dually and outfitted it as a cab&chassis tow rig. A couple brief shake-down runs and Topeka was it's maiden voyage. Talk about "beaten by equipment"!! The first 50 miles from Albuquerque to Santa Fe goes from 5500 to 7200 feet. Quickly obvious the cooling system is not happy with my 14,000 CGVW. At Santa Fe I got on the 50 mph Old Percos Trail [route 66 prior to 1937] to try cooling things off for the pull up Glorietta pass. Haven't driven that stretch for a few years but I knew where I was the moment I saw it - the last place to get on I-25 before the road dead-ends in a couple hundred yards. That's when I found out the trailer brakes were not set quite where they needed to be. There was one small sign about 150' from the downhill turn. Overshot it by 25'. That's when I found out that the engine/transmission mounts were not up to the task of backing uphill. Dead-end road, no turn around [how New Mexico] and no reverse. That was the first time I questioned if this was going to work. Barley and I scouted around for about 20 minutes on foot looking for some way to reverse course. One driveway looked promising so we gave it a try. Tight but just up-hill enough it didn't take much clutch to go backwards. By the third or fourth jack-knife maneuver I'm thinking I'm going to make it. Then comes the first wife on her way down the drive in her way to work. Explain myself, she backs up 100' feet and we're doing good. Than comes the second wife driving down. Followed by hubby on foot. With hubby's guidance I clear the mailbox by inches and the trees on the other side of the road by a few feet. Probably took a hour and a half and on the road again. Cooling system is a issue but find how directly I can control the temp with my right foot. As the terrain flattens out, the trip seems to smooth out. Stop for fuel somewhere in Oklahoma and do a light check. They're not doing as well as the last time I checked. Typical ground problem. Put a jumper on ground side and go in for [another] Red Bull. Come out ready to go, give everything a final check and the inside of the trailer is filled with that acrid smell that only comes from burning wires. Go to pull the jumper and get a good burn. How it did what it did without burning a fuse I don't even want to know. Turns out the wiring is the damnedest array of mis-wired backfeeding I've ever seen. A couple hours, a complete re-wire and a spare light later, we're on the road again. Keep in mind that WE is me and Barley - we're due to pick Connie up at the Kansas City Airport at what is now TODAY at 9:45 p.m.. 100 miles down the road and we find a road sign that had so many options it looked to be from the Japanese alphabet. Missed the turn. 12 miles in the wrong direction to find a "almost' turnaround. I say "almost" because the landing gear on the trailer bottomed out about half-way around... totally smoked the dually's to get it horsed around with the trailer jacks grinding their way into the pavement. Another 12 miles back and headed east again. It's about 11:30, we're doing about 60 on two lane highway 56. With a KAWAMM- BANG!!! I thought the frame had broken in half. We're headed for the other shoulder/ditch. Correct a bit and we're now tracing the centerline but 53' of trailer wants to pass. Hit the hand control on the trailer brakes and get it straightened out. But now we're about to be parked and disabled in the middle of a two lane highway. Actually had the presence of mind to downshift, give a bit of throttle and get it parked on the grass on my side of the road with maybe 4" of the rear over the line. Took about 1/4 mile to get it stopped and at the end I could see the sparks coming off right next to the fuel tank. Had plenty of time to grab the fire extinguisher from under the seat and think A: There goes Topeka. And B: How am I going to get this thing fixed and out of here? Jumped out and the good news was that we weren't on fire. Next clue is that we didn't have either wheel on the drivers rear of the truck. Flashlight revealed that we had one sheared lug stud and a mangled drum. Took Barley for a little walk and within 100' he found one wheel. Another 25' and we found the other!. Back to the truck for lots of jacking and blocking. Beat the brake drum back on, started the truck and put it in gear with the wheels off. The drum make some bad noises and required a few more whacks but was soon running fairly true. Then to discover that a Dodge with a Dana 70 uses different lugs from front to rear. Only thing to do is to rob 4 [half] off the other rear and see what happens. It was durring this swap process that I saw the 140 Ft Lbs on the face of the nuts - I had them at 75. 53' of trailer on 4 lug nuts is not very confidence inspiring... 100 yards and check them. 1/4 mile and check them again. 1 mile and another check. After they hadn't budged in 5 miles I started to get up to speed - maybe 45mph. By this time of the morning the truck traffic started up. Talk about jumpy! Had a pebble got stuck in a tire I was ready to pitch the whole thing in the ditch. Needless to say, but we weren't there to pick Connie up at the airport. She had to get a room, rent a car, and meet us at the track. By the time I got there about 1pm Friday, it had taken 28 hours to drive 736 miles straight thru and I was hardly in a condition to unload the car much less drive. First race of Saturday was Connie's first time on the track. After lunch was my first outing - though I did take the TR3 out for the lunchtime lapping to figure which way the track went. Funny thing was at the drivers meeting Sunday - Jim Grey was explaining how I was apexing too early to get set up for the bridge. I told him that the bridge looked like there was plenty of room to keep going after the crest. He looked at me with a kind of puzzled look and explained that the turn before going down to the bridge had to be entered from far drivers right. My response was "we go UNDER a bridge?"!!! I just don't see those kind of things. Reminds me of when Chuck met the wall in Portland - after he told me what happened I said "there's a wall out there?" Really glad I don't seem to see those scary things. So that's the "rest of the story" I know this is over max but please send it thru Mark. Would really like to hear about others engine longevity. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM And kudos to Walt Hollowell for having that TR6 flying last weekend. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Sep 9 00:20:31 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:20:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than 60F. 50-60F is the optimum for racing. Cheers Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jim Gray Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 03:55 An: Norlin Engineering Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; FOT Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 9 08:46:39 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:46:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100909144600.34994187644@autox.team.net> I'm going, staying at the Victoria Village Inn in Elkhart Lake. It's kinda pricy this year, though. - Tony At 10:45 PM 9/8/2010, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: >who all is going and where are you staying? > >i may leave rv home and find motel. > > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Ernest Husmann >To: FOT >Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm >Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > >Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? > >hanks, > >rnie >______________________________________________ >ot at autox.team.net >http://www.fot-racing.com >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >orums: http://www.team.net/forums >nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From bentleyblvd at yahoo.com Thu Sep 9 09:04:20 2010 From: bentleyblvd at yahoo.com (John Hornbostel) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:04:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Joe, we'll be there. Staying in Sheb Falls at the Days Inn. Regards, John H. ----- Original Message ---- From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 11:45:04 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America who all is going and where are you staying? i may leave rv home and find motel. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Husmann To: FOT Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? hanks, rnie ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bentleyblvd at yahoo.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 9 09:08:34 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:08:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> Message-ID: Thanks for all that info guys. Ive been using up a set of fronts in about 100 laps on my gt6. Granted, I assume that my street t.d.'s are a little different... but what all this seems to be pointing to is that maybe I should drop the starting pressure from 27 a few pounds as my car is about 200-300 pounds lighter than your TR's. I think they rise about 8-10 pounds when hot but I feel like I should be getting a little more life out of the tires. Am I correct in thinking that a little less pressure will promote longevity? I'm not even going as fast as you guys....YET. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 1:20 AM, MadMarx wrote: > A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature > on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than > 60F. > 50-60F is the optimum for racing. > > Cheers > Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Jim Gray > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 03:55 > An: Norlin Engineering > Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; FOT Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & > 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. > At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread > From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. > Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. > That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was > pretty well used by Friday. > Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? > > Jim g > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" > > wrote: > > > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > > running 2 1/2 > > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > > cars do > > need to run the higher pressures. > > > > Jim Norlin > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On > > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > > Cc: FOT Triumph > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > > realigning going on during the cure period. > > Jim G" > > > > FWIW - > > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > > Heat cycle > > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > TR4 #314 > > Albuquerque NM > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > > norlinengineering at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 9 09:56:05 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:56:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joe and others in for RA. I guess I'm staying closer to home, Gonna take my GT6 to the British Car Fest instead. Sorry to miss the big race weekend. I decided to race to Blackhawk next weekend instead with MCSCC. Joe...Should I bring the Ambro Body and show that too? Good luck guys. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 10:04 AM, John Hornbostel wrote: > Joe, we'll be there. Staying in Sheb Falls at the Days Inn. > > Regards, > John H. > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" > To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 11:45:04 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > who all is going and where are you staying? > > i may leave rv home and find motel. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ernest Husmann > To: FOT > Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm > Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > > Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? > > hanks, > > rnie > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bentleyblvd at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 9 10:17:35 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:17:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Millville historic sept 24-25 Message-ID: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> Any one going to this race? I will be there as crew for a MGA, formula eve, and bugeye. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Thu Sep 9 10:18:14 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:18:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Greg That was a great read. Makes me feel almost normal. I sometimes have days like that where you don't even want to tell others the kind of crap that you just went through because it might come across like whinning or that you are a moron for getting into such a pickle. Thanks for sharing your adventure... Sounds like a friend who lost his ID and through a seies of screwball events found himself at a police staion trying to identify himself. In frustration, after not being able to identify himself to their satisfaction and after the police asking how they could be sure that he was who he said he was, he blurted out "Who the he11 would want to be me!" Paul -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: September 7, 2010 11:11 PM To: fot Triumph Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could The Plum Pi finally gave the death rattle. A lap from the end of Connie's race last Saturday she "sensed something" and brought it in although the temp and pressure were OK. From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 12:10:56 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:10:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <93DB1F32-5192-4331-8C49-12A3E2C19703@bnj.com> That was a fun read, and way too close to home. On the All Aluminum Tour my airstream toy hauler (nero) shredded all six tires, one at a time at first with the grand finale being two on one side--fortunately in limping distance to a tire store. The tires "looked" great, but they couldn't handle the extra load. On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:18 AM, macdonaldp wrote: > Greg > > > That was a great read. Makes me feel almost normal. I sometimes have days > like that where you don't even want to tell others the kind of crap that you > just went through because it might come across like whinning or that you are > a moron for getting into such a pickle. > > Thanks for sharing your adventure... > > Sounds like a friend who lost his ID and through a seies of screwball events > found himself at a police staion trying to identify himself. In frustration, > after not being able to identify himself to their satisfaction and after the > police asking how they could be sure that he was who he said he was, he > blurted out "Who the he11 would want to be me!" > > Paul From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 12:25:02 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 11:25:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> Message-ID: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Oops, too long again. Begin forwarded message: > From: Bill Babcock > The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as well ask "what size pants are you wearing". A hundred pounds of total vehicle weight difference makes a tire pressure difference that's worth significant time on a race track and significant accelerated wear on tires. If you don't have a real tire pyrometer and test your temps then you are wasting money on good tires. > > Peyote hasn't worn out a set of tires in recent memory. They just heat cycle to the point that I'm losing time. I see racers with light cars with the center worn out of their tires and the edges still treaded. Overinflation, pure and simple. We don't have 400 horsepower and our cars don't weigh 2400 pounds--our tires shouldn't wear out from racing. If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. > > Chris, the engineer you were talking to is full of beans. If you have a 50 degree F difference between inside and outside it's either because the reading was taken after a long straight or the camber is wrong. Do the measurements on a skid pad and you can get the inside to outside measurement within 10F. Unless you are running full radial slicks I bet that won't be at 4.5 degrees. You MAY, however, be able to go faster on some tracks with excess camber just because it puts less tire on the ground down the straights. Overinflation does the same thing. Not the fast way around corners though. > > On Sep 9, 2010, at 8:08 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > >> Thanks for all that info guys. Ive been using up a set of fronts in about >> 100 laps on my gt6. Granted, I assume that my street t.d.'s are a little >> different... but what all this seems to be pointing to is that maybe I >> should drop the starting pressure from 27 a few pounds as my car is about >> 200-300 pounds lighter than your TR's. I think they rise about 8-10 pounds >> when hot but I feel like I should be getting a little more life out of the >> tires. Am I correct in thinking that a little less pressure will promote >> longevity? I'm not even going as fast as you guys....YET. >> >> Jason Ostrowski >> Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 >> On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 1:20 AM, MadMarx wrote: >> >>> A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature >>> on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than >>> 60F. >>> 50-60F is the optimum for racing. >>> >>> Cheers >>> Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 12:31:25 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:31:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Millville historic sept 24-25 In-Reply-To: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> References: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> Message-ID: <0BC9C500-E220-474E-B8B8-11EDB17ACA3D@comcast.net> I will be there with the GT6. Scott Janzen BRG 1968 GT6 On Sep 9, 2010, at 12:17 PM, Christopher Bock wrote: Any one going to this race? I will be there as crew for a MGA, formula eve, and bugeye. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 12:44:41 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:44:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> Message-ID: <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> What the engineer was probably talking about is averaged differential temperatures on a track, probably using active measurement as you describe, which I (and probably most of the FOT) don't have access to. The number simply does you no good at all in static measurements that we are limited to. The outside of a tire on a track is cooled more by the airflow down straights. The amount of differential temperature is highly variable, depending on how you take the corners, how long the straights are, and what you were doing just before you stopped to take the measurements. It's of limited use, really only good for determining tire pressure. To set camber using tire temperatures you either need a short, tight track and a lot of experience or a skid pad. A skid pad can be anywhere there's a big enough patch of smooth pavement. You drive around in circles until you're tired of it, and check your tire temps. The inside and outside temps are much closer because you don't get enough speed to have highly variable cooling. Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. If you get a chance, show the engineer a printout of this email or just tell him what I said. I bet dollars to donuts he'd agree completely. The problem with taking advice from professionals is that we then have to translate what they say to suit both our cars and the limited tools we have. Not easy. On Sep 9, 2010, at 11:24 AM, MadMarx wrote: > Bill, > > The Porsche engineer belongs to the 24h winning team on the Nordschleife and > belongs also to the works testing team. > They do the temperature measurement with a datalogger during the test rides > with infrared sensors and surely also with this needle type probes in the > pits. > I also asked him about my camber. He said, show me photos of your car during > cornering. After he looked closely to the photos he said that my car suffers > from tire roll and I have to compensate it with more camber than usual. > Since I have gained the camber to this big value I gained 6 seconds on the > Assen track. > > The good thing with me is that I listen to people and try things. I most > cases professionals are right with their suggestions. > > Cheers > Chris From markvaden at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 14:30:27 2010 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:30:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: > > The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't > understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as > well ask "what size pants are you wearing". I think the reason I ask is for a starting point. I use a pyrometer to narrow it in, but on these tires the range specified by the manufacturer is significantly different than my previous tires. I figured since a lot of us drive TR4s they should all be reasonably close as a starting point. Likewise if I were in a country that measured their pants in mm or by some size instead of waist and length, I would probably ask a guy who was similar in size to myself what size pants he was wearing! -Mark From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 15:29:08 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 14:29:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <399D9E08-104D-44C4-AB72-1A6BDBE3F417@me.com> At the risk of seeming just argumentative, Hoosier, and most other manufacturers, don't really publish a starting pressure for racing tires, that's usually tire resellers. And the numbers I've seen for Hoosier A6/R6 are pretty much the same numbers I've seen for TDs and Speedster tires: For an 1800-2200 pound car its 26-31 cold. Note that it's a really big cold range. Peyote is about 1580 wet and with Speedsters I've settled in at 23.5# all the way around with a bit of fiddling depending on how hot I think the track is going to be. Depending on the track and the day that translates to 32# hot. If there's a reason to experiment we get a bunch of tire temps, find a HOT pressure that yields a center temp close to the inside and outside edge temps on all four tires, let it cool down overnight and read the cold temperature on each. Most production cars will yield a different value for the front and rear, and to a lesser degree side to side, mostly because of weight distribution. You write those down and that's your cold pressure for each corner. Peyote happens to be 50/50 front to rear and diagonally, with me standing in the seat. How Bill Ames knew back in 1959 I would weigh 245 is beyond me. I haven't driven many Triumph race cars that belong to other people, but I did drive Tony Drews, and I was struck by the fact that it handled almost exactly like Peyote. I also clearly remember the evil handling of my cheater TR3--it's why I started studying handling so intently. I also discovered you could take a car that intrinsically handled extremely well--like my Radical DSR--and with a little work screw it up so it becomes uncompetitive. The difference is attention to setup (suspension, brake bias, spring rates, etc.) and tire issues (pressure, alignment, camber). >>> The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't >> understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as >> well ask "what size pants are you wearing". > > > I think the reason I ask is for a starting point. I use a pyrometer to > narrow it in, but on these tires the range specified by the manufacturer is > significantly different than my previous tires. I figured since a lot of us > drive TR4s they should all be reasonably close as a starting point. > Likewise if I were in a country that measured their pants in mm or by some > size instead of waist and length, I would probably ask a guy who was similar > in size to myself what size pants he was wearing! > > -Mark > _______________________________________________ From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 9 15:52:33 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 15:52:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: >> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because >> your camber is wrong. >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Sep 9 16:06:05 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 00:06:05 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <000001cb506b$34247b80$9c6d7280$@com> Now I'm off to sleep and start early in the morning to Zandvoort. I have to go there with some power loss as I have to run a very silent exhaust so Larry's cam can't work efficiently. But I hope it is not getting too bad with 10 HP less. Cheers Chris From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 19:31:27 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 18:31:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Wrong meaning if the tires were inflated to optimize the contact patch it would be shifted to one side of the tire or the other. But I know you know that. Have you ever considered moving the upper arm inner pivot inward a bit? I know that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line closer to the tie rod pivot. At some tracks though you may well be able to optimize your lap times with the "wrong" camber and over-inflated radial tires. Faster down the the straights, and not that much slower in the turns. I ran a set of R6s on Peyote briefly and discovered I could turn faster times at Road America with the tires overinflated and the camber cranked back a degree to 2.0. Those long straights demand low rolling friction. Watkins Glen was a tossup--the car was just as fast on Speedsters with the RIGHT camber and the R6s were pretty heat cycled out. And it felt better going over the bridge on Speedsters. On Sep 9, 2010, at 2:52 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. > >>> > While I basically agree, please define "wrong". > My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 20:04:57 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 19:04:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: Hmmm. Scratch that idea. I just went down and looked at the cheater TR3 that I based the notion on--that's not how it worked. I welded a plate onto the top pivot mount--or actually I think Colin Sparkes did. As I recall someone moved the pivot by making a bracket from a heavy angle iron that moved the pivot in half an inch. That might be pretty easy to do and would meet your criteria of being easy to remove without leaving holes. > > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the > pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new > holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an > inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber > gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease > bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner > pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the > lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think > they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line > closer to the tie rod pivot. From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 07:55:24 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:55:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? - Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, > McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 10 08:08:07 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:08:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 10 Sep 2010, Larry Young wrote: [stuff deleted] > The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? > - Larry Most race tracks have skid pads. So if you go on an open test day, fat city. I'll also point out that some autocross clubs will run test and tunes and these are a GREAT opportunity to dial in your tire pressures and temps for camber. In my region, we generally have a T&T each year and there are several clubs in the region that offer similar events. Failing that, a big parking lot works. Flat is best. But get permission from the owner. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 08:19:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:19:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Christian Marx new REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL DESIGN on eBAY Message-ID: <8CD1F0A5B0A1483-226C-BE6B@webmail-d042.sysops.aol.com> FOT, Chris' new seal design and my seal conversion kit is posted on eBay to test the market, if you want to look at it. I received 20 seals yesterday and 14 are spoken for. They will be available at TRF initially, too. BPNW, MOSS, and TRF will have the Centering Tool available initially,too. Thanks to Chris for making this available at his risk of tooling investment. Joe A From billb at bnj.com Fri Sep 10 08:51:50 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:51:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: <1872F8C3-70EA-455F-B32F-D9A702132B91@bnj.com> My skid pad was the parking lot of a building a friend owned. Unfortunately he sold the building. Really any large parking lot works fine as long as you can keep the car in a reasonably fast constant turn. It's not that big of a space but you need to be able to hold the turn and get up to some speed. On Sep 10, 2010, at 6:55 AM, Larry Young wrote: > Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. > > The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? > - Larry > > Bill Babcock wrote: >> Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, >> McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 08:51:46 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:51:46 EDT Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA Message-ID: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> FOT There's a number of shirts left from Topka...has a great shot of Kas in his TR3 on the back. See information below for cost. Contact me and I see that you get one or more. Thanks! I suggest that the FoT be advised that we have these shirts and that we will sell them at $8 each including shipping cost within the U.S.. From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 10 09:00:34 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:00:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 09:11:56 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:11:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: <4C8A4ABC.6090804@pobox.com> Bill, I've heard you describe this modification before. I'm not as knowledgeable on this subject as you, but I have trouble seeing how this helps. When I did the suspension on my TR3, I did a lot of measurements and used the Front Suspension Geometry Pro software to help figure things out. I also found the Puhn book on handling to be useful. At that time most people were shortening their upper A arms to increase negative camber, which moves the upper outer pivot inward. There was also the "Irv Corey" modification which moved the upper inner pivot inwards. This is done by mounting a piece of angle iron where the fulcrum would normally sit on top of the spring tower. Then two of the ears are cut off the fulcrum so it can be turned on it's side and mounted to the angle iron. I think either Irv or Jack sent me this sketch several years ago - www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/Irv_Korey_Mod.jpg. To get about -1.5 camber from stock would require this pivot to be moved about 0.5 inches. The software indicated that it didn't matter much whether the inner or outer pivot were moved laterally this amount. The software indicated you could make major improvements if you moved the fulcrum down by shortening the spring tower. This modification increases the camber gain which improves the camber when the body rolls in a turn. I think Jack told me he had seen this mod on someones car, perhaps Doug Karon's Ambro (current owner unknown). I never implemented this change, but I thought it was an interesting idea. Front Suspension Geometry Pro is not a very user friendly program. It requires you give all the dimensions in an awkward way. To save others from having to go through this, I wrote a report containing my measurements. Since it was written by an engineer, it is not the easiest report to read. Anyone that wants to get into this can download the report at - www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF. -Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the > pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new > holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an > inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber > gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease > bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner > pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the > lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think > they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line > closer to the tie rod pivot. From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 09:35:55 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:35:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <1363526095.1015349.1284132897383.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1245021414.1015413.1284132955155.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hey guys, Have you ever seen the Revington TR adjustable fulcrum pin. I installed one on my TR3. Pretty easy install with only slight mods. One includes welding the nuts to the bottom of the spring tower. You know, the ones that to remove them you have to take the spring out. If you weld them on, the pin can be removed or adjusted with out removing the spring. There are 2 other TR racers that I know of that use this kit. If you are curious check out their website. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "fot Triumph" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:00:34 AM Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net From billbab at me.com Fri Sep 10 09:37:27 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:37:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3A81A231-C582-4629-AAB2-115C7A1723F9@me.com> As far as I know they were not. That's why people shorten the upper arm, which causes as many problems as it fixes (exacerbates both camber gain and bump steer). If I were building a race car that adhered to the 62 GCR I'd still do the mod, but I'd make it removable as a bolt-in piece. On Sep 10, 2010, at 8:00 AM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: >> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? From s.janzen at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 09:38:14 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott janzen) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:38:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" wrote: >> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >> thing? > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving >> the pivot arm inwards > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of > suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM >> >>>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>>> because your camber is wrong. >>> >>>>> >>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >>> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >>> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >>> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >>> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >>> mile street car that it is. >>> >>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>> TR4 #314 >>> Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From rfdeanes at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 09:47:24 2010 From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:47:24 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes that was the fix and is still used, ARE (Joe A) has a bolt on part that is adjustable for that bar and there is in the states an adjustable upper a -arm that can be removed to go back to the "stock" upper arm..if that is your wish On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace > that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the > spring towers closer together, changing the camber? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" < > Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >>> thing? >>> >> Well... I guess it kinda' is for me >> >> >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the >>> pivot arm inwards >>> >> Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of >> suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> >>> >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your >>>>>> camber is wrong. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be >>>> put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty >>>> interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been >>>> bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to >>>> the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>>> >>>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>>> TR4 #314 >>>> Albuquerque NM >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com From billbab at me.com Fri Sep 10 10:08:15 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:08:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <34305590-6818-4922-A74D-0E0BF6B03E21@me.com> That would certainly work--sort of. On Sep 10, 2010, at 8:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" wrote: > >>> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? >> Well... I guess it kinda' is for me >> >> >>> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards >> Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >>> >>>>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. >>>> >>>>>> >>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>>> >>>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>>> TR4 #314 >>>> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri Sep 10 12:24:36 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:24:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <1245021414.1015413.1284132955155.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi AllI purchased one of their kits about a year and a half ago but have since decided not to use it. If anyone is interested in purchasing it please contact me off list for more info, etc desired. Regards,Dan Cronin --- On Fri, 9/10/10, davehogye wrote: From: davehogye Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber To: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Cc: "Bill Babcock" , "fot Triumph" Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 11:35 AM Hey guys, Have you ever seen the Revington TR adjustable fulcrum pin. I installed one on my TR3. Pretty easy install with only slight mods. One includes welding the nuts to the bottom of the spring tower. You know, the ones that to remove them you have to take the spring out. If you weld them on, the pin can be removed or adjusted with out removing the spring. There are 2 other TR racers that I know of that use this kit. If you are curious check out their website. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "fot Triumph" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:00:34 AM Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin at ameritech.net From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 13:18:11 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:18:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C8A8473.3030603@pobox.com> Ah, so you have Karon's Ambro. Your laser setup is trick. I did this back in 2003 and did everything with a homemade bumpsteer gauge and shop tools. I was able to measure a camber curve that matched the Triumph specs and get good agreement between the calculations and measurements. I spent a lot of time going back and forth between the shop and the computer. My report gives all the numbers I got, including when I compared moving the inner pivot versus shortening the A arms. Bill Babcock wrote: > I also used FSGP but I prefer SusProg3D, it's how I set Peyote up. I don't have my notebook here (in Hood River) but from memory, the amount of camber gain with the upper arm shortened increases substantially from an already too high value. I also directly measure camber gain and bump steer using a laser reflected off a very flat mirror onto graph paper stuck on the wall. The results are pretty shocking for stock TRs and most racing set ups. I'll take a look at the Ambro today (I'm on my way to Portland) --current owner is well known to me--it's me. I don't think the shock tower was modified. The Ambro has many handling problems and the suspension is more than a bit of a bodge. I'm in the process of peyotifying it. > > I ran hundreds of roll/bumps with suspension tweaks with FSGP and had a very hard time getting them to fit directly measured results. The biggest challenge seems to be that the trunnion cannot be properly represented in FSGP so you have to run two runs of every tweak and approximate. If the trunnion were a heim or ball joint the lateral pivot plane would be the same as the vertical plane--but it is offset by about 3/4". That's a big issue. Beven Young, who wrote SusProg3d added trunnion suspension options at my request, though looking at the marketing info for current version it seems to have slipped away--but I bet it's still really there. It's a lot better software, but it's expensive: A$335 though updates are always free and the support is terrific. I've had it since it first came available and Beven has never charged for anything since--even adding trunnions. > > As you say, the biggest challenge is getting the measurements. I had to build all kinds of tools to get them accurately. You also need a very flat floor. From kaskas at cox.net Fri Sep 10 13:28:25 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:28:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: <20100910152825.M9KN0.814360.imail@fed1rmwml36> I had a skid pad at Cal Sales in Gardena. It was actually a lot for parking about 500 cars but the shipments were late so it then became ala SKIDPAD. This is where I first tested and set the final for the camber compensater on the Spitfire and also the Detroit locker for the same car. Priceless how much you can learn in just a half hour. ---- Larry Young wrote: ============= Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? - Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, > McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From kaskas at cox.net Fri Sep 10 13:38:06 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:38:06 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100910153806.2XS24.814473.imail@fed1rmwml36> You were not permitted to alter the control arms during the early years or switch out the ball joints or slot the holes for the ball joint.. I turned the pivot arm around and that gave some help , but then it was time to cut the cross tube and call it chassis repair. ---- "Greg "Lunker" Hilyer" wrote: ============= > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From budscars at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 13:54:20 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:54:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP LAGUNA SECA Message-ID: Is Laguna Seca Kastner Cup 2011 or 2012? thanks Racer Bud From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 10 14:26:08 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:26:08 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-10-10 Message-ID: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> Amici, Here is the update for the Badge project as of 9-10-10. There are 43 badges committed to. Of these 37 have been paid for. The cost is $30 each. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1st. Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave., Vineland, NJ 08361) I have sent in the deposit of $200 to get things started. I will be getting an image of what it will look like in a few days. That will get posted to the Followers of FOT facebook page. This is a link to 5 images that show the preliminary idea of the Badge that I have posted on the facebook page today....... Grill badge Photos. The badges should be done and in the respective hands before Christmas. Thank you all Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 10 14:32:46 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:32:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-10-10 In-Reply-To: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> References: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> Message-ID: <97B3B0B4-9870-409E-9937-3474923AB830@aol.com> looks like the link didn't come threw. here it is.... cut and paste if need to.... http://www.facebook.com/photo.php? pid=31581352&o=all&op=1&view=all&subj=124727640888719&id=1398092718 On Sep 10, 2010, at 4:26 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici, > > Here is the update for the Badge project as of 9-10-10. > > There are 43 badges committed to. Of these 37 have been paid for. > The cost is $30 each. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1st. > > Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 > Italia Ave., Vineland, NJ 08361) > > I have sent in the deposit of $200 to get things started. I will be > getting an image of what it will look like in a few days. That will > get posted to the Followers of FOT facebook page. This is a link to > 5 images that show the preliminary idea of the Badge that I have > posted on the facebook page today....... Grill badge Photos. > > The badges should be done and in the respective hands before > Christmas. > > Thank you all > > Chris > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > seacubeco at aol.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 19:19:54 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:19:54 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <20100910153806.2XS24.814473.imail@fed1rmwml36> Message-ID: <8CD1F6692F34E03-1BDC-26B93@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Taking from Kas' 'cut the tube' we made adjustable tube and can adjust the camber with heim joints. This is on two of our cars. The TR4 for about 8 years, and now on the Ambro.....looks good too, and easy to remove. Folks are asking for them, so Sean is going to put into production, if you are interested. I think some pictures are on photobucket.com/ambro -----Original Message----- From: Kas Kastner To: Bill Babcock ; Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Cc: fot Triumph Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 2:38 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber You were not permitted to alter the control arms during the early years or witch out the ball joints or slot the holes for the ball joint.. I turned the ivot arm around and that gave some help , but then it was time to cut the ross tube and call it chassis repair. --- "Greg "Lunker" Hilyer" wrote: ============= that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? ell... I guess it kinda' is for me You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards ot that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of uspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer R4 #314 lbuquerque NM >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>> because your camber is wrong. > >>> > While I basically agree, please define "wrong". > My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could > also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked > windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and > all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise > molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 > mile street car that it is. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- ever be beaten by equipment ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 19:38:17 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:38:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com><94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com><6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com><681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net><5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD1F6924A2696E-1BDC-26E0E@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> We have the 'camber control rod' and gary horskorta has an adjustable upper a arm. gary's is very cool and very adjustable....he has sold several after I put it in Classic Motorsports. Ours is cheaper and easy to remove with engine and looks good with anodized aluminum tube. (we have an order from one wife as a christmas present. we will likely do a one time run of 25 assemblies) -----Original Message----- From: Robert Deanes To: Scott janzen Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:47 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber Yes that was the fix and is still used, ARE (Joe A) has a bolt on part that s adjustable for that bar and there is in the states an adjustable upper a arm that can be removed to go back to the "stock" upper arm..if that is our wish On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >> thing? >> > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the >> pivot arm inwards >> > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of > suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > >> >> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your >>>>> camber is wrong. >>>>> >>>> >>> >>>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be >>> put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty >>> interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been >>> bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to >>> the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>> >>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>> TR4 #314 >>> Albuquerque NM >>> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From mark at bradakis.com Fri Sep 10 21:52:51 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:52:51 -0600 Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP LAGUNA SECA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8AFD13.6010204@bradakis.com> RACER BUD wrote: > Is Laguna Seca Kastner Cup 2011 or 2012? > 2011, next year, coming up sooner than you might think. mjb. From igofaster at att.net Sun Sep 12 07:28:45 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:28:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA In-Reply-To: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> References: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> Message-ID: <708724.86196.qm@web180808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> although engine problems didn't allow me to make it to Topeka... I think I bought two tee shirts.... was it from Lunker? Bobby ________________________________ From: "N197TR4 at cs.com" To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: GSFuqua1 at aol.com; brinke at cebridge.net Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 9:51:46 AM Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA FOT There's a number of shirts left from Topka...has a great shot of Kas in his TR3 on the back. See information below for cost. Contact me and I see that you get one or more. Thanks! I suggest that the FoT be advised that we have these shirts and that we will sell them at $8 each including shipping cost within the U.S.. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Sep 12 21:13:04 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:13:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 Message-ID: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> I just got home from the YeeHaw 24 Hours of Lemons race in Houston where we campaigned a recently assembled rust bucket 1970 TR6. It was quite an experience but we shot ourselves in the foot too many times to have a good finish. You can see a few pictures of the car by checking out the YeeHaw coverage on Jalopnik. The really liked my clear coated rusty valve cover. http://jalopnik.com/5636123/and-the-real-winner-is Saturday was going well for us. We got through our first rotation of 6 drivers and were feeling pretty good. Driver one gat back out and proceeded to collect 2 black flags in about 5 minutes. The second one resulted in a broken wheel stud and bent swaybar mounts. The repair was difficult because we only had brought rear hubs as spares leaving a freshly machined rotor and hub was behind by accident. The next driver proceeded to go off in the picture shown on Jalopnik and collect black flag number 3. Lemon's rules are 4 black flags in a day and you are done for the weekend so we had to park it at 2:00 or so. Sunday started out much the same. We got black flagged after 4 laps for dumping fuel. They thought it was our overflow line which didn't have a check valve, We should have put on in but that wasn't the problem. We had incorrectly installed the access/fill cover after removing the cell foam, and it was leaking around the cover. Not a good thing at all. It took us hours to find a suitable tip over valve so we only raced about half of the day. We were chasing a severe miss that continued to get worse as the day progressed but the lap times didn't change as the drivers got better. When I drove it I though our TR6 really handled well so I can't explain the spins. I got in it this afternoon and very few cars passed me while I had a lot of fun passing more cars in one session than I ever have in my life. It was nice to be able to out brake almost everybody, be able to drive an inside line on almost everyone. I'd immediately pass the guys that just passed me on the straight, the old crossover move. Then another straight and they'd take it back. I know there was some metal to metal contact, but I didn't see any. The driving was great but the only problem area that I saw was the traffic jams that occured whenever a yellow came out. You could run up on that line right after passing a station that wasn't displaying yellow. My biggest frustration with this whole thing was how many mistakes we made. Not everyone understands was race car prep should look like, and it is hard to tell them and hard to check everything they do. Not to say I didn't make some too. We put together a car in a matter of weeks from a basket case, we should have started sooner. I got to use a lot of old parts that I've taken off my cars. I used the rear springs and swaybars that came on my TR4A. '60's vintahe stuff. I cut dowm some TRF comp springs for the fronts and then had to cut some more to fix ridde height. Remember those comp springs? They were the rallye height springs that some many of us bought. Mistake included the fuel cell. We bought a used one that had one year old foam that was disintegrating. We put in new foam and then found out that ethanol fuel hurts the foam. It was in there already but we pulled it in trying to find a fuel delivery problem. We didn't check the distributor in our junkyard dog and the advance wasn't working. We tried to run on increased static advance but we couldn't get it to rev over 4500. We'd time it in the pits and think we had it but it would get some centrifical advance at extended runs with the pedal to the floor. I'm rambling, look at Jalopnik and tell me if you'd like more. Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Sep 12 21:18:03 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:18:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] moreJalopnik posts that cover our TR6 Message-ID: http://jalopnik.com/people/murileemartin/posts/ Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi From jason at multivintage.com Mon Sep 13 09:15:52 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:15:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] moreJalopnik posts that cover our TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Looks like a slightly less refined group than those attending the Kastner Cup. Nice Job...This looks fun and pretty crazy. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Bob Kramer wrote: > http://jalopnik.com/people/murileemartin/posts/ > > Bob Kramer > Volente, TX > > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From jason at multivintage.com Mon Sep 13 09:36:21 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:36:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY Message-ID: I guess Its GT6 month On Ebay... Here's another one for sale. This one has seen a bit more track time. Looks quite developed in the lightness category. Right hand Drive. Very smoothed bodywork. Not sure its very legal to most vintage specs but sure looks Fast and COOL. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Triumph-GT6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb0c6e270QQitemZ260663861872QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ5fLegalQ5f Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Sep 13 10:28:10 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:28:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100913162810.N1JQI.22504.root@cdptpa-web23-z01> If there is any interest in this car, I looked at personally about two months ago. Let me know what you would like to know. It does have a TR6 motor, TR7 gear box and an open diff in it. The smooth body work is all quite well done in steel with very little if any filler. Bob ---- Jason Ostrowski wrote: > I guess Its GT6 month On Ebay... Here's another one for sale. This one has > seen a bit more track time. Looks quite developed in the lightness category. > Right hand Drive. Very smoothed bodywork. Not sure its very legal to most > vintage specs but sure looks Fast and COOL. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Triumph-GT6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb0c6e270QQitemZ260663861872QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ5fLegalQ5f > > > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Sep 13 10:36:13 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:36:13 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> First lap at Zandvoort.....(where does all these cars come from...there were none of them in the beginning) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpDL9YkDX1Q Cheers Chris From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Sep 13 12:27:40 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:27:40 EDT Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY Message-ID: To my eye this is a lovely car and seems well worth the opening bid. I've watched it for a couple of years and for some unknown reason it's "The Irish Car" in my mind. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Sep 13 13:31:36 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:31:36 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> References: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> Message-ID: <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> And the full race: http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5516438328196705922 The OD passed away after 5 laps and I lost some top speed. Cheers Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 13 15:17:42 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:17:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> References: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> Message-ID: Cool video! at first when I saw the spedo I was shocked to see 190 (mph), then I realized that the page was in German and it was 190 KPH (118mph) Still cool! I hope I can get some good video from my friend in two weeks at NJMP Chris On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:31 PM, MadMarx wrote: > And the full race: > > http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5516438328196705922 > > The OD passed away after 5 laps and I lost some top speed. > > Cheers > Chris > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > seacubeco at aol.com From kaskas at cox.net Mon Sep 13 15:35:33 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:35:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Anyone have a report? -- Never be beaten by equipment From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 15:49:32 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:49:32 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <15143992.1284414572793.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi Kas Chequered Flag Racing had a clean sweep. Joseph Siam FP 1147 Gary Shuman DP 1300 and John Wilkins old Spit racer won CP Datsun 240Z. Joe -----Original Message----- >From: Kas Kastner >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? > >Anyone have a report? >-- >Never be beaten by equipment >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsiam1 at earthlink.net > > Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From capecoventryracing at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:56:28 2010 From: capecoventryracing at gmail.com (John Nikas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:56:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: On another note, Mark Vaden, Mike Bruner and Alec MacArthur drove great races such that they finished 2d, 3d and 5th in DP to Shuman's Spitfire. Steve Belfer was ridiculously quick to finish 2d in E Production while I finished 2d in DPX to a 66 427 Corvette while driving a borrowed 240Z. On Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM, "Kas Kastner" wrote: > Anyone have a report? > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/capecoventryracing at gmail.com From capecoventryracing at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:56:28 2010 From: capecoventryracing at gmail.com (John Nikas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:56:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: On another note, Mark Vaden, Mike Bruner and Alec MacArthur drove great races such that they finished 2d, 3d and 5th in DP to Shuman's Spitfire. Steve Belfer was ridiculously quick to finish 2d in E Production while I finished 2d in DPX to a 66 427 Corvette while driving a borrowed 240Z. On Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM, "Kas Kastner" wrote: > Anyone have a report? > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/capecoventryracing at gmail.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 16:03:56 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:03:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: Buttonwillow was blast! Not a very big turnout but fun all the same. Lots of good Triumph battles out there. I was doing a pretty good job in the TR3 and had some good passes with Mike Bruner. I got him really good in the practice. He got me back and Mark Vaden in the TR4 started from the back and gained 16 positions to finish 2nd in D. Fun times. Nikas was in a z-car going very quickly around the course, setting new personal best times around the track. ~Steve On Sep 13, 2010, at 2:35 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: Anyone have a report? -- Never be beaten by equipment _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 17:11:02 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:11:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <19970968.1284419462737.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Thanks John and Steven for filling in more details. I was so busy with my 2 renters Bill,Rick and Jerry my new guy I didn't get a chance to watch the race as we were in the next group. Joe -----Original Message----- >From: Steven Belfer >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 3:03 PM >To: Kas Kastner >Cc: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? > >Buttonwillow was blast! Not a very big turnout but fun all the same. >Lots of good Triumph battles out there. I was doing a pretty good job >in the TR3 and had some good passes with Mike Bruner. I got him >really good in the practice. He got me back and Mark Vaden in the TR4 >started from the back and gained 16 positions to finish 2nd in D. Fun >times. Nikas was in a z-car going very quickly around the course, >setting new personal best times around the track. > >~Steve > > > > >On Sep 13, 2010, at 2:35 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > >Anyone have a report? >-- >Never be beaten by equipment >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsiam1 at earthlink.net > > Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From cwnfot at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 18:57:56 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:57:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f001cb53a7$df500bc0$9df02340$@com> I can't understand why there is so little description about the car and its features. Very odd. Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 13 19:12:51 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:12:51 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Axle shims Message-ID: I'm putting together a TR3 for the street, and can't seem to find any reference for how to shim the axles. On race cars I always just made sure they weren't pressing on each other. I have some of the old uprated axles and a Quaife rear end that I'm sticking in. Being more fussy than I would be for racing. Don't want it to be noisy. From dlhogye at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 19:19:25 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 01:19:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request In-Reply-To: <1094361865.1156549.1284427124859.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello FoT, I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. Thanks in advance, Dave H. From tr6driver at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 19:21:24 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:21:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 In-Reply-To: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> References: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> Message-ID: <434206.62661.qm@web52507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Great race report, Bob! Now, all we have to do is figure out a way to get the two "low budget endurance racing" TR6's together at the same venue :-) Our next race is the "Not Quite 12 Hours of Sebring" (11 hrs, 29 minutes...don't ask me!) on September 25-26. I hope we're able to improve on our 14th and 17th at Roebling Road...after we are pretty sure we've fixed the vapor lock (important) and the oil leakage (very important) and made a few more performance enhancements (like actually using aluminum wheels instead of stock TR6 ones). Love the shot from the rear! Sorry you had the black flag issue to deal with...I think that's the major reason we're racing ChumpCar rather than Lemons. Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing #0 '75 TR6 ChumpCar http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com (needs updating, I know...) ________________________________ From: Bob Kramer To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, September 12, 2010 11:13:04 PM Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 I just got home from the YeeHaw 24 Hours of Lemons race in Houston where we campaigned a recently assembled rust bucket 1970 TR6. It was quite an experience but we shot ourselves in the foot too many times to have a good finish. You can see a few pictures of the car by checking out the YeeHaw coverage on Jalopnik. The really liked my clear coated rusty valve cover. From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Mon Sep 13 19:46:46 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:46:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Weekend Update Message-ID: <02ed01cb53ae$fcb38730$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi all, here's the scoop on the Watkins Glen Vintage GP held over the weekend. The weather was crappy Friday AM and most of Sunday; most of the folks cleared out by Sunday noon. There were seven Triumphs there; 4 Spits, a TR3, a 4A, Dick Stockton's TR4, and my TR6. Dick was fastest of the TR bunch with a 2:22.8. I knocked off 10 seconds from last year and did a 2:44.9. Getting better. In the Sat afternoon qualifier, I went through the last turn, saw the checker waving, and shifted into 4th. With no results! I coasted across the line and finished with no drive. We think the clutch disc gave it up. Several folks helped me check it out; we all figured it was the disc. It's a PITA to change, so I spectated the rest of the weekend. Thanks for the help Scott, Dick, and Allen, and others. Bill From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 13 20:13:27 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:13:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Axle shims In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063201cb53b2$6f8c2250$0301a8c0@randall> > I'm putting together a TR3 for the street, and can't seem to find any > reference for how to shim the axles. On race cars I always > just made sure they > weren't pressing on each other. It's in the TR3 appendix to the factory workshop manual. Basically it says to check for .004" to .006" endplay at either hub, with the shim packs roughly equal between sides (to keep the center button in the center). Randall From klynch_6 at msn.com Mon Sep 13 20:41:32 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:41:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Irish car Message-ID: Was thinking the same thing Steve... ;= ) From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Sep 14 08:40:12 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request In-Reply-To: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C8F894C.2060504@pobox.com> I contemplated this change on my TR3, but decided against it based on advice from one of the FoT. When you compare the brake pads, you will notice the TR3 pad is significantly larger. More pad means better stopping power. I think that is more important than weight. Besides, your conscience will feel better because you will be pure TR3. Larry On 9/13/2010 8:19 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello FoT, > I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. > Thanks in advance, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com From BillDentin at aol.com Tue Sep 14 09:33:33 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:33:33 EDT Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Message-ID: <35a94.3c6ff1e5.39c0efcd@aol.com> In a message dated 09/14/2010 9:40:43 AM Central Daylight Time, cartravel at pobox.com writes: > I contemplated this change on my TR3, but decided against it based on > advice from one of the FoT. When you compare the brake pads, you will > notice the TR3 pad is significantly larger. More pad means better > stopping power. I think that is more important than weight. Besides, > your conscience will feel better because you will be pure TR3. > I agree with Larry! Bill Dentinger From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 14 09:45:59 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:45:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Thanks for the brake info In-Reply-To: <2145791240.1179938.1284479042931.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1155098294.1180063.1284479159180.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> This group is amazing, Thanks to everyone for the information, insightful comments and offering of the parts that I'll need to make the brake change. I really appreciate the FoT. Dave H. From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Tue Sep 14 15:55:32 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:55:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Joe Downer Message-ID: Joe Your check has arrived Thank you Chris From rocky at spitfire4.com Tue Sep 14 17:13:35 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 18:13:35 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of > their race motor? > > -- Randall Absolutely! Before I began racing, I used to see guys at the track routinely go under the hood, pull the distributor, then take a speed wrench or a cordless drill and pump up oil pressure (then have to re-set and static-time the distributor) before starting the engine. First thing I saw when I learned what an Accusump was, was the lack of any need to do that. That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and another in 1980. Haven't really had an oil-related problem since. Oh, I've invented plenty of other problems since then, but adequate oil pressure, especially on startup, hasn't been one of them. Accusump is cheap insurance. --Rocky Entriken From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 14 19:02:37 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 01:02:37 GMT Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Message-ID: <20100914.210237.13237.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> The TR6 parts will bolt directly on to the TR3 uprights. it is an easy conversion. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: davehogye To: Fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 01:19:25 +0000 (UTC) Hello FoT, I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. Thanks in advance, Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Moms Asked to Return to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c901b52e0e77bc928bst01duc From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 14 23:30:32 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 22:30:32 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> > That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and > another in 1980. At startup? Randall From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 00:19:25 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:19:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am completely convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life of my engines. I know how the bearing used to look before I started using one, and how they look these days. I know how frequently I used to see oil pressure drop in hard corners, or hear the clatter of an underlubed engine when I couldn't spare a glance at the guages, and how often I wouldn't see any significant pressure for several agonizing seconds after starting. I know how long my engines last these days--counted in seasons, not races. It's as close to a dry sump as we are likely to get with these cars, and it offers benefits that standard dry sumps don't. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 15 02:21:40 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 01:21:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> Message-ID: <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> > While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am > completely > convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life > of my engines. I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. Randall From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:00:54 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:00:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to understand where you are headed with this notion. Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >> completely >> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >> of my engines. > > I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit > bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. > > My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have > just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil > leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing > load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). > > OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly > does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some > benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. > > Randall From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 09:17:32 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:17:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:01 AM To: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to understand where you are headed with this notion. Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >> completely >> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >> of my engines. > > I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit > bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. > > My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have > just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil > leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing > load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). > > OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly > does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some > benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. > > Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:18:05 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:18:05 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Incidentally, babbit bearing don't just need oil under pressure to cool them, they require pressure to build a wedge on the leading edge of the load area. And Babbit bearing are not primitive, they are often the best choice for modern high load applications. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are > babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A > residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains > away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job > of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for > the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's > sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when > there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done > it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to > understand where you are headed with this notion. > > Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately > see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and > see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> >>> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >>> completely >>> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >>> of my engines. >> >> I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit >> bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. >> >> My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have >> just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil >> leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing >> load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). >> >> OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly >> does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some >> benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 09:27:45 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:27:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall><78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com><090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <8CD2301AE32D931-1938-ED2@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> I'm in complete agreement here, the average race car system has a lot of volume to fill, hoses, filter, cooler, before it builds up pressure. Another point that should be mentioned, it is SOP on any race car to pull plugs & spin it over for oil pressure before the first start of the day. Obviously the accusump does away with that... Glen I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 09:30:50 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:30:50 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall><78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com><090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Message-ID: <8CD23021C9060E2-1938-F7E@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> Yes it helps. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Tim Murphy To: 'Bill Babcock' ; 'Randall' Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 15, 2010 11:17 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. Tim From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:54:13 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:54:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Message-ID: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 10:43:13 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:43:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear reduction starter which should help. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 10:53:23 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:53:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 11:14:00 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:14:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> Message-ID: <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it easy on it. They aren't cheap. On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear > reduction starter which should help. > > Tim > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're > probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if > you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're > sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, > distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it > up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for > your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is > fully pressurized. > > Hmm, I wonder which is better. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the > oil >> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would >> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a >> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >> >> Tim From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:18:52 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:18:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> Message-ID: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:29:28 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:29:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> Message-ID: <361124353.522022.1284571768846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I've had my issues with the gear reduction starters too. It seems Chris Marx has cured our rear main woes, I wonder if we can get him to have a look at a better starterB ? Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Tim Murphy" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 11:14:00 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it easy on it. They aren't cheap. On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear > reduction starter which should help. > > Tim > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're > probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if > you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're > sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, > distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it > up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for > your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is > fully pressurized. > > Hmm, I wonder which is better. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the > oil >> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would >> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a >> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >> >> Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 11:34:34 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:34:34 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <148985.e3c7836.39c25ae8@aol.com> References: <148985.e3c7836.39c25ae8@aol.com> Message-ID: <5EF28D7B-AF7F-4227-90D7-9833A924373B@bnj.com> Yeah, I've fixed a few too, but it's a lot of work. Usually it's just the field coil wire coming unstuck because of heat. I'd rather use them for starting instead of pre-oiling. On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:22 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/15/2010 12:14:35 PM Central Daylight Time, billb at bnj.com writes: > > >> Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it >> easy on it. They aren't cheap. > > > We have an outfit near by rewind/rewire our starters when they go down. I think we pay about $85 for that. > > Bill Dentinger From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 12:11:31 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:11:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD23188EE6C749-2F0-BCB@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> I have most of my bearings done by Polymer Dynamics in Texas, mains & rods. The thickness is usually a couple tenths (I think they call out .0002-.0004), per shell, and it absolutely must be accounted for when calling out the crank regrind spec, if you are building to a reasonable degree of accuracy. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: Tim Murphy Cc: Randall ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 15, 2010 1:18 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 15 13:12:44 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:12:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] GT6 Racer - Fenton, MI Message-ID: <339033.11056.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270632682622&viewitem NFI Doug Mitchell From jerrybarr at charter.net Wed Sep 15 13:18:29 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:18:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> Back when I was in the diesel engine business and before, as far as I know before accusump, CAT came up with a prelub starter. it had a position on the ignition for prelub and then to start the engine. To start you would turn to position 1 and run the prelub pump then continue to start. At the time it seemed like a good idea and worked well. On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are > babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A > residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains > away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job > of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for > the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's > sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when > there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done > it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to > understand where you are headed with this notion. > > Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately > see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and > see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> >>> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >>> completely >>> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >>> of my engines. >> >> I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit >> bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. >> >> My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have >> just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil >> leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing >> load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). >> >> OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly >> does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some >> benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 13:46:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:46:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> Message-ID: Oil accumulators come out of the aviation world. Canton has been supplying them to motorsports for 20 years. There ARE some engine builders that don't like them, generally from experience with clueless drivers who open the manual ball valve on an empty accusump at startup and rob oil pressure. So don't do that. Either throttle the accusump until it reaches normal system pressure or install an electric valve. Not only do the electric valves reduce the likelihood of emptying the sump because you forgot to close the valve prior to shutting off the engine, but they also throttle the filling to prevent robbing pressure. That's why they are a bit expensive--they are not simple solenoid valves, they have some trick regulator bits in them. Summit has a barebones 1 1/2 quart moroso accumulator for $69. Add a manual valve for $13 and a little plumbing and you're in biz. Electric valves are about $120 and worth it IMHO. The barebones sump doesn't have a air side pressure gauge, but you can read that with your tire pressure gauge and save fifty bucks. Plumb it straight to the oil gallery and you don't need much tubing, fittings, and you don't need a check valve. Simple as bricks. > Back when I was in the diesel engine business and before, as far as I know before accusump, CAT came up with a prelub starter. it had a position on the ignition for prelub and then to start the engine. To start you would turn to position 1 and run the prelub pump then continue to start. At the time it seemed like a good idea and worked well. > On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 15:43:04 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 16:43:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <004101cb551e$fb1f1850$f15d48f0$@com> Ibve been told that the coating is so thin that the journal size does not have to be changed to accommodate it. I think it may even say that on Calicobs web site. I wouldnbt think 0.00025 to 0.00030 inches added to the bearing thickness would make too much difference, granted thatbs a half a thousandth on the diameter. I have found that measuring the bearing bore, the bearing shell thickness and the crank journal can add up to probably an error of +/- 0.0002 to 0.0003 just in the stack up of the estimated measuring error. That is unless you have access to some really good calibrated metrology equipment. Measuring to 1/10,000 of an inch is pretty darn hard, even with good equipment. Tim From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net [mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:19 PM To: Tim Murphy Cc: Randall; fot at autox.team.net; Bill Babcock Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 19:51:44 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Ten or fifteen years, give or take a few. There is a known problem with the field coil winding overheating and yanking it's wire loose. I know Ted Schumacher's starters no longer do that, but all of these motors are a bit fragile--way better than stock, but I have lots of pieces of them. Tony Garmey always keeps a spare or two, I always kept two. I have to say that I'm searching back in memory to talk about this stuff. These days I show up, drive the car in practice, tell Tony what I think. Hang out, take a nap or talk with people knowing my car will be ready and in tip-top condition. Go out and break my personal lap record. I'm pretty sure having Horizon Racing do the work is actually cheaper than doing it all myself. It is certainly an order of magnitude more professional. Especially if you factor in a F350, a 34' Airstream, a huge house with a 1500 square foot shop under it, and all the specialized equipment I bought over the years to play with this stuff. I think my Miller Synchrowave Welder would pay for a good part of a year with Horizon racing. Of course if I didn't have it how would I melt, distort and otherwise screw up all those pieces of aluminum and stainless. Very civilized. And Annie cooks lunch and dinner. Sheesh. On Sep 15, 2010, at 5:22 PM, Greg & Alison Blake wrote: > Interesting. In how long of a period? Do you think it is heat related? > > Thanks, > > Greg > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bill Babcock > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:14 PM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it > easy on it. They aren't cheap. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear >> reduction starter which should help. >> >> Tim >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] >> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM >> To: Tim Murphy >> Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump >> >> Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're >> probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course > if >> you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're >> sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, >> distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it >> up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for >> your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is >> fully pressurized. >> >> Hmm, I wonder which is better. >> >> On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: >> >>> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the >> oil >>> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would >>> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite > a >>> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >>> >>> Tim > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2 at austin.rr.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 00:04:17 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 01:04:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emer yville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100916060349.2A5B618767D@autox.team.net> I coat both the main and rod bearings. The coating is thin enough you don't need any additional allowance for it. It makes a huge difference in visible wear during teardown even when running an accusump. One other thing to mention regarding the accusump pre-lube at start: we're running high compression and high loads in the valve train - much higher than on a street car. And, cranks, rods and cams are VERY expensive. Anything we can do to prevent metal to metal is worth installing. - Tony At 12:18 PM 9/15/2010, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 >- .30 mil. > >( per Calico ) > >In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the >bearings. > > > >Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when > >cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with >the > >allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. > > > >Jim G > > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Tim Murphy" >To: "Bill Babcock" >Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net >Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM >Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > >One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other >folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help >prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the >machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin >who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was >working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. > >Tim > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] >Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM >To: Tim Murphy >Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > >Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're >probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if >you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're >sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, >distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it >up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for >your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is >fully pressurized. > >Hmm, I wonder which is better. > >On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > > > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the >oil > > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > > > Tim >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 16 01:20:58 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 02:20:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Bill, Going out on a limb here. All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. Your comments are usually very insightful and helpful and correct. However, rarely geared toward the understanding of a racer on a budget...even when questions are being asked by racers on a budget. I would love to have an acusump, tire temp gauge, plenty of every conceivable spare, etc... but right now I just try to race with what I have within the boundaries of what I can afford. I put all I can into my race car but I cannot afford all the best equipment for every single part or accessory. I just thank the Racing Gods every weekend I get out on track. I'm using my last 300 bucks of spending money for this month to fill my cooler and enter a race this weekend. I hope being up late in the garage every night this week with greasy hands will reward me with leaving a few Porches in the dust. My friends and family do the same work of a top paid mechanic....for BEER. Somehow I think the rewards of racing are greater if you can compete (with less) on the same level of those spending more money and having more means to win. Sorry to get all Philosophical but I always root for the underdog. And I would stay up all night to get a fellow competitor in the race. That's the Friendly Ghost way. Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Ten or fifteen years, give or take a few. There is a known problem with > the > field coil winding overheating and yanking it's wire loose. I know Ted > Schumacher's starters no longer do that, but all of these motors are a bit > fragile--way better than stock, but I have lots of pieces of them. Tony > Garmey > always keeps a spare or two, I always kept two. > > I have to say that I'm searching back in memory to talk about this stuff. > These days I show up, drive the car in practice, tell Tony what I think. > Hang > out, take a nap or talk with people knowing my car will be ready and in > tip-top condition. Go out and break my personal lap record. > > I'm pretty sure having Horizon Racing do the work is actually cheaper than > doing it all myself. It is certainly an order of magnitude more > professional. > Especially if you factor in a F350, a 34' Airstream, a huge house with a > 1500 > square foot shop under it, and all the specialized equipment I bought over > the > years to play with this stuff. I think my Miller Synchrowave Welder would > pay > for a good part of a year with Horizon racing. Of course if I didn't have > it > how would I melt, distort and otherwise screw up all those pieces of > aluminum > and stainless. > > Very civilized. And Annie cooks lunch and dinner. > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2 at austin.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 02:42:25 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 01:42:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Absolutely Jason. More power to you. I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's more fun to do it yourself. I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I understand. My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of anything that does more for less. All the best, Bill On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > Bill, > Going out on a limb here. > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. > ... > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 06:22:44 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:22:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4CBE73B7-5C86-4550-B1C0-8F6FA7C01170@comcast.net> no worries, Bill. You did give me pause for a moment there - I've been contemplating a new heavy duty tow vehicle, and certainly it would cost enough to pay for several years of track-side service . . . but I'm still at a stage where I enjoy the wrenching and the problem solving as much as the driving. Besides, my wife jokes she's having an affair with the UPS guy, he comes by so often with parts and tools! When you're ready to auction off all those excess shop tools you no longer need, I'm sure the FOT gang will show up and clean you out! On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:42 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: Absolutely Jason. More power to you. I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's more fun to do it yourself. I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I understand. My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of anything that does more for less. All the best, Bill On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > Bill, > Going out on a limb here. > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get > the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. > ... > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 07:01:45 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:01:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> Message-ID: <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> FOT....PLEASE ACCEPT MY SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI ac at camoletti Alexandre is preparing what is likely to be the most unique TR3 in the world. Meticulous in the research and application of original Triumph parts and components Competition Preparation substantially following the 'teachings' of Kas Kastner. Concours and Museum quality work through out.... Please welcome ALEXANDRE.....he will doubtless provide a great amount of value added content to the FOT. Kas and I have been contact with Alexandre for some time now. Kas regrets that he did not discover Alexandre and his TR3 in time for inclusion in his new book. WELCOME ABOARD, ALEXANDRE! JOE A. -----Original Message----- From: Alexandre Camoletti To: n197tr4 at cs.com Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 6:48 am Subject: FOT YES! Of course ! With great pleasure and honour! , thank you so much Joe to invite me to your private racing enthusiasts group! How do we proceed to my benrolLmentb ? Just read the old article on Kasb website bYa pays yer moneyb&b, what a fantastic piece of realing! With best regards Alexandre PS: I am also rebuilding a Lotus turbo esprit , an early one (1982) with the very rare (and excellent) dry sump engine. Car will be used for track and long distance fast travelling. opportunity some time to travel to Europe, I will be glad to invite you for a lunch or dinner at my place in Geneva (Switzerland), it would be a great honour to meet you in person. Thank you very much Mr Kastner! With my best regards Alexandre Camoletti From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 07:42:44 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:42:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT NOMINATIONS VS SPONSORSHIPS Message-ID: <8CD23BC2CC9E9F7-A1C-12B49@Webmail-m106.sysops.aol.com> FOT Some of you have noticed.......a change in my approach to FOT list membership. "SPONSORSHIP" I have been giving this some thought. The "NOMINATION" procedure worked at the begining when there was so few of us. I dont think it works very well anymore. As I see it..... A "SPONSOR" is responsible for the person he offers to the list. The candidate should be someone who is in a postion to ADD VALUE to the list and it's postings. The FOT is not open to everyone, and should not be. Not all of our folks are engaged in a direct form of TRIUMPH competition, but they are in a postion to add value to the list. It is up to the SPONSOR to qualify the candidate...the responsibility is yours. "No rules, no dues, no board of directors" has prevailed over about 13 years....some said it couldnt be done. But I would like to add some substance to the process of including new members....without being elitist. Please give it a try....thanks! Joe A From klynch_6 at msn.com Thu Sep 16 08:13:57 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:13:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity Message-ID: What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? thanks! Kevin From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 16 08:51:46 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:51:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Great, I just don't want you to get too rusty as I will have many, many questions for you when my dad and I start putting together our AMBRO. In Speed and Triumph Unity, Jason FGR On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 3:42 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Absolutely Jason. More power to you. > > I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've > done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a > silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I > have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem > remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a > motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept > in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times > I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, > pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built > my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked > 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. > > Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding > calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in > a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. > Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's > more fun to do it yourself. > > I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my > life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't > have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the > process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the > economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my > race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly > working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I > understand. > > My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a > barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, > bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of > anything that does more for less. > > All the best, > Bill > > On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > > > Bill, > > Going out on a limb here. > > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the > car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and > drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other > stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more > fun. > > ... > > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > > Jason Ostrowski > > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From fasttrs at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 09:01:05 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:01:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race engines. Mike #28 EP TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:13 AM, "KEVIN LYNCH" wrote: > What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? > > thanks! > > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From klynch_6 at msn.com Thu Sep 16 09:41:46 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:41:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander Message-ID: I'd be remiss if I didn't wish Joe a Happy Birthday..! Kevin From fubog1 at aol.com Thu Sep 16 09:41:17 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:41:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD23CCBCE1F03F-1E40-144B1@webmail-m096.sysops.aol.com> 3 HTH Glen (note this is just my personal opinion and falls under the category "something I read on the internet") -----Original Message----- From: Mike Munson To: KEVIN LYNCH Cc: FOT Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 11:01 am Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race engines. Mike #28 EP TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:13 AM, "KEVIN LYNCH" wrote: > What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? > > thanks! > > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From RustyTR4 at aol.com Thu Sep 16 09:46:27 2010 From: RustyTR4 at aol.com (RustyTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:46:27 EDT Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander Message-ID: <1b6511.735e1ddd.39c395d3@aol.com> Ditto from all of us here......... Triumph Rescue 617 Walnut St. Bally, Pa. 19503 610-845-8217 _www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) British Wiring 617 Walnut St. P.O. Box 185 Bally, Pa. 19503 _www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/) From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 09:50:14 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:50:14 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> Sounds like a great addition. On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 09:55:49 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:55:49 -0700 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Mike Munson wrote: > I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be > more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race > engines. > > Mike > #28 EP TR6 From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 10:03:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:03:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> Message-ID: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 that really sucks ;^p On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:50 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Sounds like a great addition. > On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 10:09:17 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:09:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch><8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com><6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD23D0A5F45DDE-1378-1972@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com> but 70 gets you free lift tickets in Colorado....in March from a business standpoint they dont lose much revenue, do they? -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Bill Babcock Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net; ac at camoletti.ch Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 11:03 am Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 hat really sucks ;^p On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:50 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Sounds like a great addition. On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From donmarshall at nefcom.net Thu Sep 16 10:24:02 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:24:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something that can normally be done here at home? -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM To: Mike Munson Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. From ikorey at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 10:29:21 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:29:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning > 60 > that really sucks ;^p > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 10:41:20 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:41:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Irv: It is impossible for Joe to be over 60 as he would have to take retirement and it doesn't appear he is about to do that. Happy Birthday Joe!!! --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Irv Korey wrote: You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From brad.kahler at 141.com Thu Sep 16 10:55:59 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:55:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: But Joe IS retired....:) On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 12:41 PM, Ernest Husmann wrote: > Irv: > > It is impossible for Joe to be over 60 as he would have to take retirement and > it doesn't appear he is about to do that. > > Happy Birthday Joe!!! > > --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than > aware that turning 60 "really sucks". > > ;-) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bkahler1 at gmail.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 11:06:25 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:06:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? Message-ID: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> Where can I get a radiator cap for my TR3? It sticks down deep about 1" into the neck. I see moss carries a 7lb cap but I need more like 10-15lb for racing. Any sources? ~Steve From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:18:00 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:18:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, but be careful doing it. I've had mine apart. There's a hard coating on the inside that you really don't want to scratch. It's basically just a tube with a piston that separates air from the oil. I thought mine might be sticking because I clamped it in the wrong place. It wasn't. Cleaned it all up with some fresh diesel and stuck it back together. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:24 AM, Don Marshall wrote: > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:20:59 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:20:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8F0A4733-6272-44C3-9699-ECF13AF87EA1@bnj.com> If you are using a manual valve you need to get to it when starting the car. If you want it out of the cockpit you can either use a cable remote or electric valve. Fifty bucks is great, especially since it probably has a valve and a little plumbing. Those Porsche guys are handy to know. BMW drivers tend to sell nice stuff cheap too. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:15 AM, KEVIN LYNCH wrote: > Thanks Bill, as it turns out a Porsche friend has a Moroso 2-2.5 qt.? unit for $50. > I've always seen them mounted in cockpit, as I get into this I'm now hearing of engine compartment placement. > All new to me... thanks again~ Kev > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bill Babcock > To: Mike Munson > Cc: KEVIN LYNCH ; FOT > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:55 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity > > I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. > > On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Mike Munson wrote: > > > I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be > > more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race > > engines. > > > > Mike > > #28 EP TR6 From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:21:43 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:21:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: Surely you jest, he's a mere child. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 > that really sucks ;^p > > > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". > > ;-) From tstrange at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 16 11:34:29 2010 From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:34:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <616769.61387.qm@web81107.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for reminding us Kevin, .... Happy Birthday Joe .... and many more (someone has to keep this group on the straight & narrow ;>))))) Tom http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm #4 white spitfire --- On Thu, 9/16/10, KEVIN LYNCH wrote: From: KEVIN LYNCH Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander To: "FOT" Date: Thursday, September 16, 2010, 10:41 AM I'd be remiss if I didn't wish Joe a Happy Birthday..! Kevin _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 16 11:39:48 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:39:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? Be sure to release the precharge before disassembly. If you don't, the piston will fly across the shop. Some of my students experimented with this... John H. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 11:40:27 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:40:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD23DD6283C2CF-A54-6C18@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> as bill dentinger says...."it's never too late to have a happy childhood". -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Irv Korey Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net; ac at camoletti.ch Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 12:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 Surely you jest, he's a mere child. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Irv Korey wrote: On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 that really sucks ;^p You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 12:08:28 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:08:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: <15642.75418.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <15642.75418.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes. I held it in the mount and used a hose clamp on top of a strap wrench. I saw a special tool someone had made to do the same thing at Sears Point last year. If I were going to do it again I'd make one. Just a hole turned inside a plate of aluminum with a slot milled through one side, and clamping tabs milled on both sides of the slot and a handle welded on. The same guy made his mounts in a similar fashion. Very sano. On Sep 16, 2010, at 10:41 AM, tom strange wrote: > Bill, > Do the ends just screw off??? & what did you use to accomplish that? how did you hold it etc??? > > Tom > > http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm > > > #4 white spitfire > > > --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Bill Babcock wrote: > > From: Bill Babcock > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity > To: "Don Marshall" > Cc: "'FOT'" > Date: Thursday, September 16, 2010, 12:18 PM > > Yes, but be careful doing it. I've had mine apart. There's a hard coating on > the inside that you really don't want to scratch. It's basically just a tube > with a piston that separates air from the oil. I thought mine might be > sticking because I clamped it in the wrong place. It wasn't. Cleaned it all up > with some fresh diesel and stuck it back together. > On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:24 AM, Don Marshall wrote: > > > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with > bits > > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > > that can normally be done here at home? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 15:20:05 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:20:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Message-ID: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? Jim G From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 16 15:40:54 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:40:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8033C@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> It appears APT is now selling nitrided lifters, at $10.48 each. Scott B. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 4:20 PM To: fot Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? Jim G _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/scott.barr at mccarty-law.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 16:37:40 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:37:40 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Message-ID: Subject says it all. You be the judge. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 16:50:43 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:50:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > Subject says it all. You be the judge. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- > collection-100-cars-/160481458567? > pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 17:03:03 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:03:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> Works fine if you glue the URL together. My answer would be: No Thanks. On Sep 16, 2010, at 3:50 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: > That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >> Subject says it all. You be the judge. >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >> collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 17:09:46 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:09:46 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> That appears to be the business, "Triumph's Only." Looks like they are unloading everything. The bottom of the ad listed 595K for the lot. Yikes! Maybe they have a radiator cap for me : ) ~Steve From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 17:13:15 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:13:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD240BE07921B2-AF4-109F5@webmail-m006.sysops.aol.com> i met this guy at a BMTA Conference two years ago. he said he was thinking about getting out of the business. $595,000 is the asking price.....no thanks -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Greg Lunker Hilyer Cc: fot Triumph Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 6:03 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Works fine if you glue the URL together. My answer would be: No Thanks. On Sep 16, 2010, at 3:50 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: > That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >> Subject says it all. You be the judge. >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >> collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 19:06:16 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:06:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] 9 to10pm eastern on CNBC tonight Message-ID: BIO. on Enzo Ferrari Enjoy rob From stlnyc at msn.com Thu Sep 16 20:06:19 2010 From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:06:19 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? In-Reply-To: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> References: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Steve- Stant made a spacer for their radiator pressure testers to use with 1" deep radiator necks. Get with a Stant supplier & have them get you a couple. Drop it in the neck & upgrade to whatever pressure cap you want. Fred Hodgson > From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net > To: fot at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:06:25 -0700 > Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? > > Where can I get a radiator cap for my TR3? It sticks down deep about > 1" into the neck. I see moss carries a 7lb cap but I need more like > 10-15lb for racing. > > Any sources? > > ~Steve > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stlnyc at msn.com From triosan at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 01:09:23 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:09:23 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival Message-ID: Have been in England for 3 months, heads down on a project. Getting out for the first time next wekend to take in the Sunday of Goodwood Revival. Report to follow! Chuck ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Goodwood Revival Date: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 6:50 PM Subject: It's time for Revival To: "triosan at gmail.com" View the web version of this email [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: This Issue] [image: Goodwood Revival] A THIRST FOR FIRSTS [image: Goodwood Revival] LISTEN LIVE ON GOODWOOD.COM [image: Goodwood Revival] MUSIC AND DANCING ON RICHMOND LAWN [image: Goodwood Revival] DOWNLOAD THE REVIVAL APP [image: Goodwood Revival] WHAT'S IN STORE [image: Goodwood Revival] CHOSEN CHARITY [image: Goodwood Revival] BOOK SIGNING [image: Goodwood Revival] JOIN US ON TWITTER AND FACEBOOK [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Forward to a Friend]  Forward to a friend [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: My Goodwood] [image: Goodwood Revival]  Update your profile [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Keep in Touch] [image: Goodwood Revival on Facebook] [image: Goodwood Revival on Twitter] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] There's only another couple of days to wait until the 2010 *Goodwood Revival*. [image: Goodwood Revival] We're just making the final adjustments and finishing touches now, before we open the gates at 07.30am on Friday morning. [image: Goodwood Revival] Tickets are almost sold out now, with just 250 left for Saturday and only 750 tickets remaining for Sunday. So if you haven't already got your Revival tickets call the ticket hotline on 01243 755055 or *book online*NOW! The ticket office will be staying open until 9.00pm this evening, 14th September, to deal with your call, as we expect these last remaining tickets to sell out quickly. [image: Goodwood Revival] We're really excited about the forthcoming weekend, and can't wait to welcome you to the 2010 Revival, which is forecast to be fine with some September sunshine. The Revival promises a weekend of dramatic racing and entertainment that you won't forget in a hurry. [image: Goodwood Revival] See you there... [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] A THIRST FOR FIRSTS[image: Goodwood Revival] We have a number of significant 'firsts' in store for you this weekend, including a current Renault Formula One driver, Vitaly Petrov, who will be racing at the Goodwood Motor Circuit for the very first time; appropriately in a Russian-built GAZ Volga M21 from 1958. He will compete against a number of ex-F1 stars battling hard in a variety of 1950 saloon cars in the St Mary's Trophy race, including Martin Brundle, Jackie Oliver and Desiri Wilson - the first and only woman to win a Formula One race. Near the busy Revival Market is a purpose-built early 1960s-inspired Tesco supermarket, displaying and selling a wide range of groceries from the era, including specially packaged jars of Marmite, as well as period-packaged cans of Barrs Cream Soda and Raspberry, tins of Tate and Lyle Golden Syrup and Fab ice cream lollies. An important evolution in Jaguar's successful motor racing history will compete for the very first time in the UK at Goodwood this weekend. The Jaguar E2A spanned the conquering D-Type of the 1950s and the iconic E-Type of the 1960s. It will race in the Sussex Trophy. A remarkable Sikorsky S-38 aircraft can be seen for the very first time too in mainland Britain, as part of Goodwood's Freddie March Spirit of Aviation concours d'elegance for pre-1966 aircraft. The S-38 is a huge American twin-engined eight-seat amphibious aircraft, sometimes called 'The Explorer's Air Yacht'. It was Sikorsky's first widely produced amphibious flying boat used successfully by Pan American Airways and the U.S Army. The Sikorsky at Goodwood is painted to represent the famous film makers Martin and Osa Johnson's S-38 'Osa's Ark' in which the husband and wife team explored Africa extensively between the wars, making safari movies and writing books. This aircraft has also been seen in the well known Howard Hughes film, 'The Aviator'. Finally, nine ex-RAF World War 2 pilots will return to their Goodwood base (then known as the Battle of Britain base RAF Westhampnett), many for the first time in 70 years as part of a tribute on Revival Sunday to all ex-airmen. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] LISTEN LIVE ON GOODWOOD.COM [image: Goodwood Revival] For all the latest Revival news during the weekend, keep your eye on the Revival website, where we will be posting live updates of all the action on and off the track. You can also tune in to Goodwood Radio on 87.7 FM from 7.00 am until 7.00 pm each day of the event. *Live Radio Stream* We will also be broadcasting a live radio stream online which will be accessible via the *Revival website.*This will be live from 9.00am on Friday 17 September until the close of the 2010 Revival on Sunday evening. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] MUSIC & DANCING ON RICHMOND LAWN [image: Goodwood Revival] Every day during the Revival you can enjoy live music on the Richmond Lawn, with sets from The Goodwood Big Band, Jazz Cafi and Oh-Bop Sh'Bam. Strut your stuff and show off your moves, or if you don't know how you can join in the Dance Workshops, where rosettes will be awarded for different categories including the Oldest Swinger in Town, Divine Duo for the best couple, and Goodwood's Grooviest for the most improved dancer during each workshop. Go on, put on your dancing shoes and show us your finest moves! *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] DOWNLOAD THE REVIVAL APP[image: Goodwood Revival] New for 2010 we have developed an app for your iphone, which will help you find your way around all the wonderful attractions that take place during Revival. It will also include a timetable* of the races and other main events taking place over the weekend, so you can plan your visit. To download the Revival App *click here.* * The race content and timings are subject to change. You can purchase the full Revival Programme on the day or pre-order your copy *online now.* *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] WHAT'S IN STORE [image: Goodwood Revival] Don't forget to take home a little piece of Revival as a souvenir of your visit - choose from our range of specially developed merchandise, that includes overalls, t-shirts, books, DVDs, silk scarves, leather gloves and a whole lot more. *Buy online*or in the Goodwood shops located near Gate 1 and on the Richmond Lawn. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] CHOSEN CHARITY [image: Goodwood Revival] Each year Goodwood works with a team of enthusiastic volunteers to raise money for an appropriate charity or beneficiary. The nominated charity for this week's Revival, is a beautiful and historic local church on the edge of Goodwood Estate - the Boxgrove Priory. The Boxgrove Priory has very strong connections to Goodwood stretching back over 300 years. The Priory has enjoyed the support throughout history of all 10 Dukes of Richmond. Boxgrove Priory is the resting place of Billy Fiske III, the gifted and dashing young American pilot who flew from Goodwood/RAF Westhampnett and nearby Tangmere during World War II. Fiske was a famed member of the USA Bobsledding team and twice won gold at the 1928 and 1932 Olympics. To read more about this wartime hero and Goodwood's tribute to him on Sunday, which includes a salute by The Royal Horse Artillery, please *click here* . *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] BOOK SIGNING [image: Goodwood Revival] We are pleased to welcome back Nick Mason of Pink Floyd fame, who will once again be joining us at the Revival. During the weekend he will also be available to sign copies of his new book, Passion for Speed. Nick's book will be available to purchase in the Goodwood Shops, located beside the main gate and on the Richmond Lawn. The book signings will take place in the shop on the Richmond Lawn at the following times: Friday & Saturday: 11.00am - 12noon Sunday: 10.30am - 11.30am. Nick's book puts you behind the wheel of the greatest ever sports and racing cars. Nick Mason of Pink Floyd has been acquiring and racing cars for nearly 40 years. With test driver Mark Hales, he has given the pick of his cars a no-holds-barred workout at Silverstone, Donington and Anglesey to find out how they compare under pressure. Feel the force of a Le Mans Porsche. Relish the challenge of a 1920s Bugatti. Savour the elegant performance of the Ferrari 250 GTO. With specially commissioned photographs of every car, and even a CD unleashing the power and glory of their engine sounds, "Passion For Speed" is the next best thing to being in the driving seat. RRP: #25.00 *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival on Twitter] [image: Goodwood Revival on Facebook] JOIN US ON TWITTER AND FACEBOOK [image: Goodwood Revival] We have recently launched our Facebook and Twitter pages. Sign up now for lots of exciting news and views about this year's Revival, and for your chance to win some fantastic prizes over the next few weeks. *Follow us on Twitter*. *Follow us on Facebook*. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] Goodwood Revival Goodwood Road Racing Company, Goodwood Motor Circuit, Goodwood, Chichester, West Sussex PO18 0PH T: +44 (0)1243 755055  F: +44 (0)1243 755058 Visit the Goodwood website This email was sent to triosan at gmail.com You can instantly unsubscribe from these emails by clicking here. [image: Vintage at Goodwood] -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From rjl at gt-classics.com Thu Sep 16 20:46:14 2010 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (R. John Lye) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:46:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> Wow, "Triumphs Only" - that name brings back some memories. I had no idea that he was still around. John At 06:37 PM 9/16/2010, you wrote: >Subject says it all. You be the judge. >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com Thanks, R. John Lye rjl6n at cstone.net From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 21:25:36 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 03:25:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> References: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> Message-ID: I only have $400K sittin' around. Dang! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "R. John Lye" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:46:14 To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; Subject: Re: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Wow, "Triumphs Only" - that name brings back some memories. I had no idea that he was still around. John At 06:37 PM 9/16/2010, you wrote: >Subject says it all. You be the judge. >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com Thanks, R. John Lye rjl6n at cstone.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com From mike.mehl at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 21:42:39 2010 From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:42:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <584721.89351.qm@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have cleaned mine out (three weeks ago) and unfortunatly have to do it again. easy to do. Contact me off line for the details. Mike Mehl -62 TR4 ________________________________ From: Don Marshall To: FOT Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 9:24:02 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something that can normally be done here at home? -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM To: Mike Munson Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 23:26:40 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 00:26:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryv ille.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100917052602.0C9F218764F@autox.team.net> Jack did that (cam anyway), although I've not done that on the Larry cam I'm running. Certainly didn't seem to hurt anything. - Tony D At 04:20 PM 9/16/2010, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > >Jim G >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 23:30:54 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 00:30:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> Well, that's slightly less than $6000 per hulk - what a steal... Hah. - Tony At 05:50 PM 9/16/2010, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote: >That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or >search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >>Subject says it all. You be the judge. >>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >>collection-100-cars-/160481458567? pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >>Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>TR4 #314 >>Albuquerque NM From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Sep 17 08:16:48 2010 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 07:16:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival References: Message-ID: Chuck, don't forget the ' period correct clothing'. Have fun! Charly Mitchel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" To: "Friends" Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:09 AM Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival > Have been in England for 3 months, heads down on a project. Getting out > for > the first time next wekend to take in the Sunday of Goodwood Revival. > Report to follow! > Chuck > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Goodwood Revival > Date: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 6:50 PM > Subject: It's time for Revival > To: "triosan at gmail.com" From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 17 08:19:43 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:19:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: On Fri, 17 Sep 2010, Tony Drews wrote: > Well, that's slightly less than $6000 per hulk - what a steal... Hah. You aslo get the "brand", of course. What's that worth. Oh, nevermind. :-) > - Tony rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tpettenati at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 10:02:36 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:02:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Report - SCCA Vintage Thuderhill Sept. 11 & 12 Message-ID: <846490.24433.qm@web180305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> This was our first real race weekend since buying the car back in Feb. I'd done an auto-X and my wife ran a CSRG test day, but we were now ready to take it up a notch. We were a bit hesitant at first since SCCA vintage has a bit of a crash & bash reputation compared to the other vintage groups in our area. We spoke with the Vintage Chief who assured us the small bore group were a clean and safe bunch to run with. My wife realized she needed one more SCCA event to complete her comp license requirements, so it was now or never. B Weather was great all weekend and the car ran without issue. Small bore was suppose to be 18 cars, but due to the lack of entries they combined the 2.5L TA group in with group 1. So it would be 25 cars at most. Due to a bit more group shuffling we ended up with three run groups instead of 5. Maybe not so good for SCCA but great for us - lots of track time and a very relaxed schedule with a practice, qualify and race each day. Results were 14th out of 20 on Saturday and 15th of 16 on Sunday. Her lap times kept getting better as she gained confidence and familiarity with the car, and by the end of the weekend was faster than she had ever been in a Spec Miata. B Photos can be found at http://cwk-photo.appspot.com/start#SFR-20100912 B There were two other Triumphs in our group. The finely prepped Spitfire #43 of Tom Turner's - last spotted at the Monterey Reunion, and Scott A'Dair's very nice TR-250 #55. B Next event - CSRG Season Finale, Oct. 29 - 31. B Cheers, Tim Pettenati Spitfire #44 c From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Sep 17 13:43:16 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:43:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity References: Message-ID: <1328930F63034AF78EB48BB5B08AB736@rocky> Yep. Pretty easy, actually (Hey, if *I* -- with my mechanical ineptitude -- can do it....) Remove from car. release air pressure from back. Open valve, pour out oil Unscrew the front end (the oil end) Clean it out. Push the piston to the back, reassemble. Refill with fresh oil, close valve. Repressurize the back (air) end. Reinstall in car. --Rocky ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Marshall" To: "'FOT'" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:24 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with > bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bill Babcock > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM > To: Mike Munson > Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity > > I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more > than > enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in > the > TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote > gauge > anyway. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Sep 17 13:53:49 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:53:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: No, it was full-tilt-boogie on the track each time. But back then the bearings were usually "done" even on the good cylinders. The wear was obvious (although each blown engine was a con-rod bolt failure) Today they come out looking like near-new. Some have said that there should be enough oil on startup that it's okay. Maybe on startup for the afternoon after you've run in practice that morning, but how about the startup after it's been sitting silent in your garage for five weeks? Try this: pour oil on something and then let it sit for five weeks and see how much is left. Yeah, I thought so. Look at it this way: An Accusump really doesn't cost that much, and with reasonable care it'll last forever (Mine's 30 years old now). And you cannot argue that having oil pressure before startup isn't a good thing. How much difference it makes, that you might argue -- but it doesn't hurt anything and it could help. I've never regretted it. --Rocky ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:30 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump >> That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and >> another in 1980. > > At startup? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Fri Sep 17 15:59:33 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:59:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 From seacubeco at aol.com Fri Sep 17 17:16:06 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 19:16:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 References: <3F928365-B399-4FEF-81B6-D6AFFB6EA8BA@comcast.net> Message-ID: Amici Facebook Badge Photo Above is the link to the Facebook image of the artwork proof that will become the BADGE! If you can't get the link to work please email me and I will send you the picture. Price is still only $30 which includes EVERYTHING. Deadline is November 1st. Still plenty of time to order. There are 46 Badges sold. That means that theses badges will be made and delivered. Payment is either PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361). Chris From dave at microworks.net Fri Sep 17 17:30:43 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 16:30:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 In-Reply-To: <2E2B7825410D4144A598429BC40F192B@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <3F928365-B399-4FEF-81B6-D6AFFB6EA8BA@comcast.net> <2E2B7825410D4144A598429BC40F192B@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF0351DE@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Just looked at the image over on FB. It looks awesome. I'll be ordering one for sure! -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of christopher bock Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:21 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 Amici Facebook Badge Photo Above is the link to the Facebook image of the artwork proof that will become the BADGE! If you can't get the link to work please email me and I will send you the picture. Price is still only $30 which includes EVERYTHING. Deadline is November 1st. Still plenty of time to order. There are 46 Badges sold. That means that theses badges will be made and delivered. Payment is either PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361). From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Sep 17 17:42:48 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 17:42:48 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Message-ID: <39D774F7-A0D5-4237-9CC2-C8608F16EB0D@comcast.net> So then is the stock crank of the same material? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 17, 2010, at 3:59 PM, "Greg Solow" wrote: > Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding > will not give any benificial results. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Greg Solow > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: "fot" > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM > Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > > >> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? >> >> >> >> Jim G >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com >> >> > > > --- > --- > --- > --- > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: > 09/16/10 06:34:00 From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 17 20:28:54 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:28:54 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? = From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 17 20:42:59 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:42:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER Message-ID: <8CD24F25756472C-1994-6B89@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> Looking for an ACCUSUMP Looking for good HEADER Thanks! From seacubeco at aol.com Fri Sep 17 21:04:20 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 23:04:20 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge link Message-ID: FOT BADGE I hope this works... Pics will be sent to those who wanted them Sorry Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 17 21:09:19 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 23:09:19 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge link In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php? pid=31602818&o=all&op=1&view=all&subj=124727640888719&id=1398092718 cut and paste if yo can...... I am getting fed up with this...... chris On Sep 17, 2010, at 11:04 PM, christopher bock wrote: > FOT BADGE From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 17 21:38:21 2010 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 20:38:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <305091.48839.qm@web81707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I need a TR4A frame moved from Texas to the Midwest. Dennis I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? = _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 02:39:32 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:39:32 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Message-ID: <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> I not agree with that. Steel get its strength from carbon build into the iron structure and these carbon atoms do make the standard steel harder, especially if the steel is heat treated. Cast iron has most of the carbon between the iron grains, so the strength is not high. To enforce more surface strength the nitride atoms enter to the iron grains and make them harder like with the steel and so it should be a benefit to the whole cam. The cam I got from Larry is still in the chilled cast condition without nitride treatment, but the lifters are nitrite hardened and they are cast iron too. Seems to work fine. All my other cams were nitride hardened and they lasted too....after I grinded the lifters dead flat. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Solow Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 00:00 An: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From Gt6steve at aol.com Sat Sep 18 08:34:43 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:34:43 EDT Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> There was some talk of moving a GT6 from Las Vegas to St. Louis a while back... From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Sep 18 08:44:29 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:44:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C94D04D.5030709@charter.net> I may have a TR6 frame to move from Apache Junction, AZ (north of Phoenix) to the midwest. I need to see if it's still available. Thanks Glenn Franco On 9/17/2010 10:28 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. > > This may be in October....not scheduled yet. > > Anyone need something moved from west to east? > > > > > = > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Sep 18 09:06:15 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 08:06:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] funky oil Message-ID: <10624012A3E34BB3AB39368E2331FF8C@Pendys> Family, the last two times i have had the oil pan off for bearing inspection, the bottom , say 1/2 to 1 pint , of oil seems to be more of a slurry, like syrup instead of oil. The first time i thought the residue was the remnants of the rebuild,ie assembly lube, break-in wear and so on. I have removed all bearing caps both times looking for anything unusual and i am getting good wear patterns. The second removeval did not seem to yield as much slurry as the first time. The engine is very fresh with virtually no hours on it. I have Valvoline VR1 20-50 this time in it with a bottle of comp cams zdddp. Normal or should i start freaking- out. Any input ??.......Thanks in advance......Mark Pendy From BillDentin at aol.com Sat Sep 18 09:07:11 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:07:11 EDT Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> In a message dated 09/17/2010 9:30:42 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. > > This may be in October....not scheduled yet. > > Anyone need something moved from west to east? > > Joe... Why don't you hold off. Probably someone from the midwest will be buying the California TRIUMPH stash on ebay, and you'll need to make a bunch of trips to get it all back here. Bill (Damdinger) From REK46 at aol.com Sat Sep 18 09:24:14 2010 From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:24:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] funky oil Message-ID: <15caf7.7d00a49c.39c6339e@aol.com> I think the zddp zinc additive is heavier and wud drop to bottom when not hot and being used..but i'm not an oil chemist In a message dated 9/18/2010 11:06:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mpendy at dishmail.net writes: Family, the last two times i have had the oil pan off for bearing inspection, the bottom , say 1/2 to 1 pint , of oil seems to be more of a slurry, like syrup instead of oil. The first time i thought the residue was the remnants of the rebuild,ie assembly lube, break-in wear and so on. I have removed all bearing caps both times looking for anything unusual and i am getting good wear patterns. The second removeval did not seem to yield as much slurry as the first time. The engine is very fresh with virtually no hours on it. I have Valvoline VR1 20-50 this time in it with a bottle of comp cams zdddp. Normal or should i start freaking- out. Any input ??.......Thanks in advance......Mark Pendy _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 18 10:09:58 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:09:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER References: <8CD24F25756472C-1994-6B89@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <03e901cb574b$f28e0af0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Jeg's has a 3 quart one for sale for about $200, including mounting brackets. And valve and gauge. Made by Moroso. JEGS.com, I think. 800 345-4545. No financial interest. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER > Looking for an ACCUSUMP > > Looking for good HEADER > > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 18 10:11:51 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:11:51 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Watkins Glen race report Message-ID: <03f601cb574c$351dd670$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Adams To: william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 6:46 PM Subject: Watkins Glen race report Bill, I'm not longer on the list, but you can forward this to it if you want. Sorry to hear about your driveline troubles. Dick's TR4 had a good showing. Rain throughout the weekend and a large 52 car field made for tough driving conditions. Saturday afternoon Qualifying race. Started 8th oa and picked up 3 spots right away. A 3.0L Alfa 3000CM started on pole and motored off. 2nd through 7th consisted of Denny Wilson's Super 7 , Vic Skirmants' Porsche 356, Mike Besic's Alfa Duetto, Dick Stockton's Triumph TR4, Bob Leitzinger's Datsun 510, Ceasar Cone's Alfa Duetto, in that order. 2nd through 7th stayed together for the first 4 laps and ran away from the rest of the field. They ran as a group until they hit traffic, and then spread out while they worked through lapped cars. The TR4 and Datsun ran nose to tail, swapping positions while they lapped 19 cars. A lapped car balked the TR4 at the exit of T9 which allowed the 510 to make a run in T10. The checkered came out one turn later. Finished 6th of 52 and turned a 2.21.0. Results here http://www.mylaps.com/results/showrun.jsp?id=1690447 Sunday was rain, and their race was at 5pm. With a 6hour ride home, no one felt like sticking around and most of our competitors packed it up and went home. Bob From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 18 10:14:56 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:14:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> References: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2563C51EA8A5-1988-E3EA@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> I already bought that stuff. I am going to move out there and live in one of the TRIUMPHS -----Original Message----- From: BillDentin at aol.com To: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 10:07 am Subject: Re: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In a message dated 09/17/2010 9:30:42 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? Joe... Why don't you hold off. Probably someone from the midwest will be buying the California TRIUMPH stash on ebay, and you'll need to make a bunch of trips to get it all back here. Bill (Damdinger) From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 18 10:17:40 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:17:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> References: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD256426CC9E0E-1988-E45D@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> That would be close to ideal....anymore info out there. -----Original Message----- From: Gt6steve at aol.com To: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 9:34 am Subject: Re: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST There was some talk of moving a GT6 from Las Vegas to St. Louis a while back... _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From Gt6steve at aol.com Sat Sep 18 10:33:25 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:33:25 EDT Subject: [Fot] Andy Stark Message-ID: <1295.4d746cf0.39c643d5@aol.com> Andy, give me a shout. I've lost all of my contacts in a computer crash....Steve From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 11:28:22 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:28:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank improving # 2 main Message-ID: <20100918172740.107C718763F@autox.team.net> FoT I have heard the oil passage in the # 2 main journal can be drilled out for better flow and re-shaping the hole to better apply oil to the bearing. I'm preparing a new crank and using Chris's new seal as well as shot peening, cryo treatment and nitriding. I would like to improve oil flow to the center main if possible. Any information about drilling, re-shaping or just outright crank improvement would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Sat Sep 18 12:37:06 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:37:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? Scott From jerrybarr at charter.net Sat Sep 18 12:50:53 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:50:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <7C6416A6-49D3-4983-8B9F-768421D911A2@charter.net> OMG do not cut that off! That will cause all the horse power to flow back behind the rear seal and run out on the track allowing it to be syphoned up by those pesky Miatas. On Sep 18, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barr, Scott wrote: > There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. > > Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Sat Sep 18 12:53:46 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:53:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> We're safe, as our Spitfire produces no horsepower. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Barr To: Barr, Scott Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat Sep 18 13:50:53 2010 Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab OMG do not cut that off! That will cause all the horse power to flow back behind the rear seal and run out on the track allowing it to be syphoned up by those pesky Miatas. On Sep 18, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barr, Scott wrote: > There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. > > Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 13:42:39 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:42:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 14:19:39 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:19:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> Message-ID: <001501cb576e$d342f1b0$79c8d510$@com> Unfortunately Redline is not sold in Germany. But thanks....the technical description is very similar to the plastilube grease. How often to change bearings? Mine did last several years now. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Barry Munson [mailto:barry at penybryn.ca] Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 22:13 An: 'MadMarx' Betreff: RE: [Fot] Hub grease Chris - Take a look at Redline CV-2 fully synthetic grease. I used this product for the first time this year during the Topeka (Heartland) Kastner Cup event where the ambient temperature was 45C and the track well over 50. Heartland is a 2.5 mile track but is basically an up and down point and squirt track which is very demanding on brakes. This is background to the following assessment of CV-2 - tremendous heat was generated at the front axle which was hard to deal with because of the high ambient temperature and the layout of the track - the grease showed absolutely no degradation when the wheel bearings were checked after the event. Barry. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx Sent: September-18-10 1:43 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/barry at penybryn.ca From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Sep 19 02:54:03 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:54:03 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> Message-ID: <000301cb57d8$37b6cb30$a7246190$@com> Thanks for all the input on grease types. Any suggestions how many grease I should fill into the hub space? Cheers Chris From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sun Sep 19 09:45:39 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:45:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Piloti Shoes Message-ID: FoT, I have a pair of black Piloti driving style shoes (for street use) size 9.5 available if anyone is interested. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 19 12:29:38 2010 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 11:29:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Randy Williams Message-ID: <399746.36629.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Randy - would you contact me off list. Thanks Dennis DeLap From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 19 13:41:04 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:41:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> Message-ID: <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Just FYI, Lunati in MS will Plasma Nitride your cams, cranks and what-not. Just had them do my TR6 crank last week. ________________________________ From: MadMarx To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 18, 2010 3:39:32 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams I not agree with that. Steel get its strength from carbon build into the iron structure and these carbon atoms do make the standard steel harder, especially if the steel is heat treated. Cast iron has most of the carbon between the iron grains, so the strength is not high. To enforce more surface strength the nitride atoms enter to the iron grains and make them harder like with the steel and so it should be a benefit to the whole cam. The cam I got from Larry is still in the chilled cast condition without nitride treatment, but the lifters are nitrite hardened and they are cast iron too. Seems to work fine. All my other cams were nitride hardened and they lasted too....after I grinded the lifters dead flat. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Solow Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 00:00 An: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/oldspeed72 at yahoo.com From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Sun Sep 19 13:47:59 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <39D774F7-A0D5-4237-9CC2-C8608F16EB0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <024366B4C001417BA7AA60CB7DC9F9F2@TER2> No, the stock crank is a steel forging. Nitriding the crank properly gives VERY benificial results i9n both wear resistance and resistance to cracking. . Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gray" To: "Greg Solow" Cc: "fot" Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > So then is the stock crank of the same material? > > Jim g > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 17, 2010, at 3:59 PM, "Greg Solow" > wrote: > >> Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding >> will not give any benificial results. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Greg Solow >> ----- Original Message ----- From: >> To: "fot" >> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM >> Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams >> >> >>> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? >>> >>> >>> >>> Jim G >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com >>> >>> >> >> >> --- >> --- >> --- >> --- >> -------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: >> 09/16/10 06:34:00 >> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3141 - Release Date: 09/17/10 12:24:00 From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sun Sep 19 14:01:48 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:01:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C966C2C.5040007@greenheart.com> Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild comes along. What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? --Justin From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Sun Sep 19 14:23:17 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD @TER2><000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com><655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4C966C2C.5040007@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <77BBB7E94CEC4D1D8E2189CCC3A2212B@TER2> The hardchrome gives a very hard and durable surface to the crank journals. It does not add any strength or resistance to cracking, as does Nitriding. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop > that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground > undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. > I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank > and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild > comes along. > > What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? > > --Justin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3145 - Release Date: 09/19/10 06:34:00 From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 20 01:37:39 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 00:37:39 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Sovren Fall Finale In-Reply-To: <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> Lightly attended, intermittently rainy, but lots of fun and good weekend for Triumphs. Jeff Quick won one of his races and looked great in all of them, John James nearly earned a second but wound up third, and also performed well all weekend. From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 20 01:45:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 00:45:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Sovren Fall Finale In-Reply-To: <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> Message-ID: <9D8019E0-49CD-4F1A-83A6-8C2506F8AEA2@bnj.com> Hmm, the second paragraph got lopped off, that's happened a few times lately. I'll try to reconstruct it: Peyote performed incredibly well all weekend. Broke my personal lap record with a 1:37:something. I consistently feel that my driving is a bit off this year, but the car keeps upping the ante. I may not be remembering correctly, but I think I have broken my lap records at every every track this year. What a great car. At the risk of jinxing things, it's performed almost perfectly, without so much as a hiccup all year. Kudos to Tony Garmey and his crew. On Sep 20, 2010, at 12:37 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Lightly attended, intermittently rainy, but lots of fun and good weekend for > Triumphs. Jeff Quick won one of his races and looked great in all of them, > John James nearly earned a second but wound up third, and also performed well > all weekend. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 20 19:48:33 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 01:48:33 GMT Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Message-ID: <20100920.214833.28491.1@webmail02.dca.untd.com> About 10 years ago on the false grid at New Hampshire a Volvo P1800 went to start and the engine would not crank - it was seized. Turned out that the chrome had flaked off the crank and jammed up in the bearing journals. No idea where the hard chrome was done, but the car and driver were from eastern PA Joe(B). ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Greg Solow" To: "Justin Wagner" , Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:23:17 -0700 The hardchrome gives a very hard and durable surface to the crank journals. It does not add any strength or resistance to cracking, as does Nitriding. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop > that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground > undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. > I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank > and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild > comes along. > > What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? > > --Justin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3145 - Release Date: 09/19/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c980f41c0aa4c62aa3st03duc From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 20 20:45:19 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 02:45:19 GMT Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Message-ID: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> I have been using Mobil 1 grease. I have used Redline CV-2 too, but have found the Mobil 1 to work just as well and it is easier to find. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "MadMarx" To: Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:42:39 +0200 Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c981c5f3c9facae15bst01duc From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Tue Sep 21 09:25:45 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow From tedtsimx at bright.net Tue Sep 21 10:08:39 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:08:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] looking for TR3/TR4 con rods Message-ID: <4C98D887.1000709@bright.net> Hello list. We have a customer looking for a set of used after market connecting rods - Pauter, Carillo, etc fora TR3 or TR4. We will magnaflux, straighten, recon, etc but need a set to start with. Anyone who has a set for sale or knowsof a set, please let me know.Thanks,Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From s.janzen at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 10:50:22 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:50:22 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> I looked up Red Line vs the Shell Darina EP. Red Line has a much higher dropping point (basically the temp at which the stuff turns to liquid) - 900 degrees F vs 500. The load wear index (measurement of load bearing capacity relative to wear of the bearing surfaces) is 70 (Red Line) vs 50, with a higher number being superior. My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front hubs get from braking. I hope to report back on this, however, as I have temperature indicating paint on the brake and hub pieces for this weekend's race. It may be that both of these are well within operating range. All the specs are on the Shell and Red Line websites. On Sep 21, 2010, at 11:25 AM, Greg Solow wrote: We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 21 11:11:00 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:11:00 GMT Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Message-ID: <20100921.131100.29336.2@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Back in college we asked one of our engineering professors how much grease was needed in wheel bearings. His answer was "just enough to keep the bearings lubricated". That was not the answer we needed. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Greg Solow" To: "Joe Boruch" , Cc: Subject: Re: [Fot] Hub grease Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:25:45 -0700 We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c98e75f11819cc32b5st01duc From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Tue Sep 21 11:51:27 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:51:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT]. Millville race. Report Message-ID: <923FDBCE-AB46-4989-8B1F-0F509E37075C@aol.com> Amici, I know I asked this before but...... Who is going this weekend? I will be there and will try to say hi Chris From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 21 12:10:56 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:10:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <35ec01cb59b8$572e2e90$058a8bb0$@rr.com> > We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. <> > I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size A quick Google turned up individual 14 oz cartridges for sale (in EP grade 2). http://www.pdblowers.com/pr93-shell-darina-sd-2-grease-tube.php Specs available at http://tinyurl.com/2drxvc9 -- Randall From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 18:34:55 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 00:34:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <271747278.1543671.1285115687814.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello all, Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. I'd appreciate any comments, Dave H. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 21 18:37:41 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:37:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> Now is the time to get it straight and true, and beef up the most stressed sections a little bit before popping the frame onto it. ~Steve On Sep 21, 2010, at 5:34 PM, davehogye wrote: Hello all, Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. I'd appreciate any comments, Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 21 20:03:07 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:03:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From whitedog72 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 21 20:16:27 2010 From: whitedog72 at hotmail.com (f s) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:16:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time Message-ID: Hi All, How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are newly rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a brand that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or 20W50. Way to heavy for street car. Thanks Andy 72 EP GT6 79 spit etc....... From awashatko at wi.rr.com Tue Sep 21 20:45:36 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:45:36 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Frame Measurements Message-ID: <836C686A-5A0F-4BE4-A8BA-050BAC44C184@wi.rr.com> FoT, Pages 428 and 429 of "The Complete Official Triumph TR6 & TR250 1967-1976" manual published by RB Bentley Publishers will give you all the dimensions you need to verify and true your frame. Take the book to Kinko's and have them enlarge the pages 200% for easy reading. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Sep 21 20:46:41 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:46:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] ALLOY ENGINE PLATES - new inventory available interested? otherwise delete. Message-ID: <8CD281785192FB7-15D8-6611@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com> We just ran TR6 and GT6 Rear Engine Plates, as well as the front GT6/TR6 Front Engine Plates. We also released to production the later version of the TR6 engine plate. First time and available no where else TR3/TR4 Alloy Engine Plates are plentiful, too. This would be a good time to get a good FOT deal....just ask. Especially with us building a new engine and supporting two race cars. BTW, THANKS TO BOB KRAMER for shipping a proper block to replace the one subjected to a rod violently cast through the walls in three places. From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 20:49:56 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 02:49:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <539757137.1549725.1285123681524.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1302528209.1549822.1285123796292.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Greg, I stopped by a friends body shop today and it just so happens that he mentioned the possibility of that "urban myth". He said some cars were set that way from the factory. He also said that modern specification have a 10mm tolerance side to side, front to back and diagonally after straightening is performed. My frame otherwise looks straight. There are no signs of any obvious bends or kinks that might suggest being bent from an impact of some sort. There was, as I said, some badly bent wheels on the car, and the lower front edge of the main frame rails had some pretty good curb rash. It seems to me that, a hard curb impact could bend a rail upward a bit, as well as wheel. The problem with trying to address this issue on a frame machine is that it seems to me as though the spring tower and lower pin would have to be twisted forward and the frame rail pulled down. This does not seem reasonable. I am curious as to what others may have encountered through the years with Triumphs and their frames. Are there any commonalities? The factory manual shows measuring points from all angles but has no info regarding specifications and + or - tolerances. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer" To: "davehogye" Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 7:03:07 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Tue Sep 21 21:27:08 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:27:08 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't believe ZDDP is just for break in, rather the lack of it at break in hastens the damage that occurs to flat tappet cams on engines run without it. I use Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil, the kind they sell at all the major parts stores and it has ZDDP in it. Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of f s Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:16 PM To: triumph friends Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time Hi All, How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are newly rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a brand that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or 20W50. Way to heavy for street car. Thanks Andy 72 EP GT6 79 spit etc....... _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer at rdoequipment.com From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 21 22:12:43 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:12:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> > My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front > hubs get from braking. > I did a temp profile on Killer's brakes a number of years back when we were racing at Wendover. As I recall the caliper was about 800 - 850 degrees F, the outer portion of the disk around 900. If I recall correctly the hub and bearing area was around 450 - 500. When I start racing again I promise to actually write down this sort of stuff. And based on the few times I checked with my little infrared meter the concrete never got more than 50 - 60 degrees above air temp when it was in full sun. mjb. From mpendy at dishmail.net Tue Sep 21 22:35:52 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:35:52 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time References: Message-ID: <660AF262EB2C4EAB90B5D7B0B50E03FD@Pendys> Look closely at the 15-40 Delo 400, plenty of the zddp and it's not just for diesels. Mark P ----- Original Message ----- From: "f s" To: "triumph friends" Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 7:16 PM Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time > Hi All, > How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are > newly > rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil > change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a > brand > that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or > 20W50. > Way to heavy for street car. > Thanks > Andy > > 72 EP GT6 > > 79 spit etc....... > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Tue Sep 21 23:19:13 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:19:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time References: Message-ID: <8CCA58AB2B404F159B884F68D0C5B00F@your89d26e0447> Chevron Delo 15w-40 motor oil has good levels of ZDDP. We use it in many street cars here in California. As long as the weather temperatures are above 50 deg. F. it should work well. Greg Solow From jibjib at att.net Tue Sep 21 23:41:39 2010 From: jibjib at att.net (jibjib at att.net) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:41:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time In-Reply-To: <660AF262EB2C4EAB90B5D7B0B50E03FD@Pendys> Message-ID: <126048.2535.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I use the Delo diesel oil in my TR3 and TR8. Costco carries it four gallon jug cases. Jack --- On Tue, 9/21/10, Mark Pendergrass wrote: From: Mark Pendergrass Subject: Re: [Fot] ZDDP break in time To: "f s" , "triumph friends" Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2010, 9:35 PM Look closely at the 15-40 Delo 400, plenty of the zddp and it's not just for diesels. Mark P From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Sep 22 06:34:33 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:34:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803B5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> << Here's a urban myth to run by the group. ... They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads >> Or maybe LHD cars tend to run into curbs more often on the right side of the car than the left? Scott -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:03 PM To: davehogye Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/scott.barr at mccarty-law.com From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 08:03:43 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:03:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> Message-ID: with all the work that goes into a restoration and with the tub off at this time it would be great to get it on to a modern frame machine. The measures are accurate,and you will have peace of mind.Also if you have handling issues having the frame out of the equation will be a big help rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Belfer" To: "davehogye" Cc: "FOT Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 8:37 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? > Now is the time to get it straight and true, and beef up the most > stressed sections a little bit before popping the frame onto it. > > ~Steve > > > On Sep 21, 2010, at 5:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm > about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a > little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the > short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car > did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no > evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels > were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would > be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Sep 22 08:17:11 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:17:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 22 10:27:21 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:27:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> I check the front rotor temps and front bearing temps (measured at the outer edge of the sheet metal hub cap) and the normal range of temperatures is about 350 to 450 for the discs and 150 to 225 on the hub caps. This is with an infrared thermometer. The checks are made as soon as the car gets into the paddock so the brake rotors have had some time to cool. I think the hubs, being a larger mass and not getting as much cooling air, might retain their temperature quite a bit longer. I just use the temps for comparative data to see how things are working. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 11:13 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hub grease > My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front > hubs get from braking. > I did a temp profile on Killer's brakes a number of years back when we were racing at Wendover. As I recall the caliper was about 800 - 850 degrees F, the outer portion of the disk around 900. If I recall correctly the hub and bearing area was around 450 - 500. When I start racing again I promise to actually write down this sort of stuff. And based on the few times I checked with my little infrared meter the concrete never got more than 50 - 60 degrees above air temp when it was in full sun. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 11:05:31 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Wed Sep 22 11:13:01 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:13:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old and probably absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you look up: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html Snipped: Fluid DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Castrol SRF 590 518 Performance Friction 550 284 Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers. Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street. ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars. Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly. Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff! Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point. Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Wed Sep 22 11:24:20 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:24:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: I mention mostly using Castrol LMA; I've also used Wilwood 570 Racing Brake Fluid and it has a wet boiling point about the same as the Castrol stuff. Dry Boiling Point: 573 F Wet Boiling Point: 313 F Live and learn Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kramer, Robert Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:13 PM To: ''Friends of Triumph' Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. From kaskas at cox.net Wed Sep 22 12:07:22 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:07:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: ============= On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 22 12:14:41 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:14:41 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: Fascinating! So as with many a myth, there is some truth. The shim would have been on opposite sides RHD vs. LHD. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 22, 2010, at 12:07 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear > spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left > front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of > people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high > and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in > racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. > ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: > > ============= > On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > >> Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to >> be true as >> I've run into it more than once. >> They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. >> RHD would >> have the corresponding difference on the other side. >> Thoughts? From bownes at seiri.com Wed Sep 22 12:15:33 2010 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:15:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: My 72 GT6 has a shim on top of the L front spring for what I presume is the same purpose. On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:07 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so > that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate > for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars > sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little > shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left > turn tracks. > ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: > > ============= > On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > > > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true > as > > I've run into it more than once. > > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD > would > > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > > Thoughts? > > I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person > can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is > within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of > the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on > the type of driving that you describe to the tech. > > Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ > of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- > 1/8" or less. > > My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and > plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at > how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car > from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of > alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start > stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common > problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner > weights or your attempts to accomodate them. > > Just my humble opiion, of course. > > regards, > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > 2010 NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net > > > > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com From herald948 at aol.com Wed Sep 22 12:39:59 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:39:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: <8CD289CB1F45132-E50-1756@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> With the GT6, and the Herald, that shim atop the LH front spring -- only on LH steering cars -- was primarily to compensate for the fact that both driver and fuel tank would be on the LH side of the car. RH steering versions did not have any shims in front, nor did Spitfires with their "centrally mounted" fuel tanks. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: robert bownes My 72 GT6 has a shim on top of the L front spring for what I presume is the same purpose. From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 13:19:11 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:19:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <132323578.1582882.1285183102875.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Kas, Thanks for chiming in. My car does have 2 shims, each the thickness of a leaf, on top of the right spring. The frame rails have a level read until right about the diagonal spring tower support on the right side. It goes up slightly and measures about 1/4" - 3/8" up at the front end of the rail on the right. The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. FYI, my car was originally sold through Cal Sales in 1960. Perhaps you had something to do about the shims being there. Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kas Kastner" To: "Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer" , "Robert M. Lang" Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 11:07:22 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: ============= On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 22 13:30:10 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:30:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <132323578.1582882.1285183102875.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. Are you sure your rear axle isn't bent? I have experimented with this... John H. From chasgee at aol.com Wed Sep 22 13:39:38 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:39:38 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire/GT6 composite leaf spring Message-ID: <8CD28A50716C95A-C48-4532@webmail-m087.sysops.aol.com> Anyone interested in one of these? I have one but will never use it. Contact me off list and I'll make you a good deal. Chuck Gee From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 13:57:19 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:57:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <2045001877.1584902.1285185314395.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1240684446.1585161.1285185439018.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> All the measurements taken from frame points revealed similar differences; points like the shackles pins and front leaf spring pins. Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Herrera" To: dlhogye at comcast.net, "Kas Kastner" Cc: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:30:10 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? > The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. Are you sure your rear axle isn't bent? I have experimented with this... John H. From fasttrs at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 14:07:44 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 13:07:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with the natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? Mike #28 EP TR6 ________________________________ From: "Kramer, Robert" To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Wed, September 22, 2010 12:13:01 PM Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old and probably absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you look up: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html Snipped: Fluid DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Castrol SRF 590 518 Performance Friction 550 284 Bob Kramer _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 22 15:02:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:02:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003001cb5a99$75c43480$614c9d80$@rr.com> > I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with > the > natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? I proved to my own satisfaction that that was true, back in the 70s. However, new replacement seals for at least the past 30 years or so appear to be compatible with all brake fluids. New fuel pump diaphragms are also compatible with ethanol, while originals (or at least some older replacements) apparently weren't. -- Randall From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 19:51:53 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:51:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] frame info, thanks In-Reply-To: <20144567.1603899.1285206652851.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <744690773.1603958.1285206713990.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks to everyone who replied to my frame questions. Once again the group came through with more than enough information to help me make some informed choices with how to approach this particular issue. I also acquired the correct dimensions and specification from VTR, TR expert, Bill Redinger. Thanks again to my FoT, Dave Hogye From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 22 21:23:34 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:23:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C9AC836.5070708@bradakis.com> toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. From horizonracing at msn.com Wed Sep 22 22:39:43 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony & Annie Garmey) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:39:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps Message-ID: ap 550 for most of my cars & ap600 for the can am cars Randall wrote: >> I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with >> the >> natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? > >I proved to my own satisfaction that that was true, back in the 70s. >However, new replacement seals for at least the past 30 years or so appear >to be compatible with all brake fluids. > >New fuel pump diaphragms are also compatible with ethanol, while originals >(or at least some older replacements) apparently weren't. > >-- Randall >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 23 00:52:24 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:52:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> Message-ID: <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> Shortened version so it made it through. - Tony At 01:36 AM 9/23/2010, Tony Drews wrote: >I just switched to Castrol SRF (from LMA) this year after boiling my >fluid in a race - still did well but had to pump the pedal 5 times >going into most of the corners. Figured the wet boiling point >trumped most of what was out there. As you mentioned, kinda >spendy. As is racing in general... > >- Tony Drews > >At 12:13 PM 9/22/2010, Kramer, Robert wrote: >>With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of >>brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned >>that I need >>a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the >>Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I >>do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. >> >>I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the >>matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet >>boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I >>used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist >>moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I >>have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old >>and probably >>absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you >>look up: >> >>http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html >> >>Snipped: From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Thu Sep 23 05:17:07 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 04:17:07 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps References: Message-ID: <26CE1780BC7246C2A5F17D7056CAA059@your89d26e0447> In our 1800 lbs. Morgan super sport with the standard brake calipers and rotors fitted. We have had very good luck using the Castrol LMA. We have a single tandem master cylinder , Girling brand. We replace the fluid at least every other event, or it the car has been unused for 7 months or more..The brakes aware used very hard. In two race weekends at Laguna Seca, (the track in our immediate area that is hardest on brakes) the outer caliper dust seal with get crisp so it will shatter at the slightest touch. The rubber seal material is obviously not up to the temperature that they reach.The rotor temperature reach 850 degrees. The only time we have ever experience fad caused by boiling fluid was when the fluid had not been replace in two years. After 3 laps of the first practice session, the pedal began to require two or three pumps to get any pressure at the pedal. Flushing the fluid and installing new LMA completely cured the problem. Regards, Greg Solow From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 23 05:19:40 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 07:19:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Rich Kristoff and Robert Jones re BAdges Message-ID: <3797C4F3-61F8-4C81-BB1D-A824756F9D43@aol.com> Your payments have been received Thank you Chris From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 08:42:16 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:42:16 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? Thx Ty #413 ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 09:15:03 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 11:15:03 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <544AE0F6-FC0F-41C1-A86B-E43A6B393489@comcast.net> Pegasus catalog is a good source of temperature data on different brake fluids. I use Motul 600, though they also make a 660 (degrees). On Sep 23, 2010, at 2:52 AM, Tony Drews wrote: Shortened version so it made it through. - Tony At 01:36 AM 9/23/2010, Tony Drews wrote: > I just switched to Castrol SRF (from LMA) this year after boiling my > fluid in a race - still did well but had to pump the pedal 5 times > going into most of the corners. Figured the wet boiling point > trumped most of what was out there. As you mentioned, kinda > spendy. As is racing in general... > > - Tony Drews > > At 12:13 PM 9/22/2010, Kramer, Robert wrote: >> With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the >> question of >> brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned >> that I need >> a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly >> used the >> Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 >> minute races I >> do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. >> >> I found this information on the webpage listed below while >> researching the >> matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. >> The wet >> boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart >> bottle I >> used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't >> resist >> moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my >> shelf that I >> have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old >> and probably >> absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this >> interests you >> look up: >> >> http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html >> >> Snipped: _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 23 09:17:02 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:17:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Does anyone know the stock size for the flywheel bolts for a small crank Spitfire? 3/8-24 x 1 sounds familiar, but my manual doesn't say. Scott B. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 23 10:57:21 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:57:21 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <12278838.1285261041730.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net> A useful piece of info for the TR3/4 crank would be the specs to radius the main and big-end journals. ~Steve -----Original Message----- >From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com >Sent: Sep 23, 2010 7:42 AM >To: Mark J Bradakis , fot-bounces at autox.team.net, fot >Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > >I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. > >Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? > >Thx > >Ty >#413 >------Original Message------ >From: Mark J Bradakis >Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >To: fot >Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank >Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM > >toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >> FoT >> >> I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do >> >> everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then >> >> shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. >> >> >Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once >any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other >treatments. > >mjb. >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > > > > >Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From jaboruch at netzero.com Thu Sep 23 13:04:34 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.com (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 19:04:34 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it. The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 13:18:01 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:18:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> References: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it. The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 23 13:45:27 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:45:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <20100923144200.39F5A18787C@autox.team.net> References: <20100923144200.39F5A18787C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CD296F01753A97-1710-138F@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com> Ty, Post-mortem per Sean: "It appears that the liner split and caused hydraulic lock between piston and head. This broke the rod and the resulting flaying of the rod broke the camshaft and put holes in the block". "The head and the crank survived the failure, with some damage to the rod journal". This is somewhat consistent with two liner failures that Larry Young experienced. Our liners may have been compromised by water in block and a hard freeze after garage door was left open. This also explains why radiator exhibited a bulge in top and bottom tanks, a condition that we reported earlier in the year. "never be beaten by equipment .....or your attention to detail". to paraphrase Kas. Conjecture presented here and willing to listen to other theories. Joe -----Original Message----- From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com To: Mark J Bradakis ; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2010 9:42 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? Thx Ty #413 ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 14:00:08 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:00:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <188313800.851632.1285272008409.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead time. Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag B it. B The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. B You may B find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank B and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. B IMHO B spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. B The billet crank with some Pauter B rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. B My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which B destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. B B Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing B it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the B opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or B manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 23 14:03:19 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:03:19 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.160319.3022.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> It has been at least 5 years since I have bought from them. I think back then it was about $1700. Their contact information (no it is not me) is: contact Joe @ 313-561-7676 or 313-387-6099 with any questions and pricing. Fax 313-5617024 joe at moldexcrankshaft.com From: Scott Janzen To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:18:01 -0400 What is the price on a Moldex these days? ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9bb29acff75cd4cst06duc From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 23 14:05:08 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:05:08 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.160508.3022.1@webmail07.dca.untd.com> Yes, expect 2-3 months, but the first time I bought they happened to have one on the shelf, so i got lucky. The 2nd time it was 2-3 months. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: Scott Janzen Cc: Joe Boruch , 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:00:08 +0000 (UTC) According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead time. Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag B it. B The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. B You may B find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank B and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. B IMHO B spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. B The billet crank with some Pauter B rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. B My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which B destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. B B Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing B it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the B opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or B manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Thu Sep 23 15:52:53 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 16:52:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I don't think he has talked to them in a while. I believe the last price was $2250.00, with less lead time due to the economy. Bob Kramer Volente, TX > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Scott Janzen" > Cc: "Joe Boruch" ; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" > > Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > > >> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead >> time. >> >> Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? From kaskas at cox.net Thu Sep 23 15:59:26 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:59:26 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100923175927.D0IKJ.1008278.imail@fed1rmwml44> You might check with Mordy Dunst. Mordy had several made and might have another. Good pieces. ---- Bob Kramer wrote: ============= Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I don't think he has talked to them in a while. I believe the last price was $2250.00, with less lead time due to the economy. Bob Kramer Volente, TX > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Scott Janzen" > Cc: "Joe Boruch" ; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" > > Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > > >> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead >> time. >> >> Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From cwnfot at gmail.com Thu Sep 23 18:49:42 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:49:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <012e01cb5b82$614b6c00$23e24400$@com> They should be the same, 1300 or 1147 engine, ARP has them but the website doesn't give all the specs. http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Triumph_Parts/t_Fasteners.htm Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner "Reality, it's not what you think." From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 23 19:01:20 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:01:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Pegasus has them - I just needed to confirm the size. They're sold as 1600 Formula Ford flywheel bolts in a set of 6. Thanks! Scott B. ----- Original Message ----- From: Clark W. Nicholls To: Barr, Scott; Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu Sep 23 19:49:42 2010 Subject: RE: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts They should be the same, 1300 or 1147 engine, ARP has them but the website doesn't give all the specs. http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Triumph_Parts/t_Fasteners.htm Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner "Reality, it's not what you think." From billdentin at aol.com Thu Sep 23 19:08:39 2010 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 21:08:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <8CD299C2865A68D-1310-8110@webmail-m096.sysops.aol.com> <<< Pegasus has them - I just needed to confirm the size. They're sold as 1600 ormula Ford flywheel bolts in a set of 6. >>> The BASTARDS! Now they'll sell for 250% more than if they were Spitfire bolts. Bill (Damdinger) From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 23 21:09:59 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:09:59 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Tire pressures Hoosier A30 Message-ID: <8125634.1285297799114.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi does any Spitfire racers have a tire pressure setting cold for a Hoosier A30. We are heading down to HMSAs Coronado event this weekend and have never used these tires. thanks Joe Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 23 22:38:51 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 23:38:51 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Non-car related but way cool Message-ID: <20100924043810.60BE4187682@autox.team.net> They put cameras on the backs of a couple of fast / maneuverable birds. I found this breathtaking. About a 3 min video. http://mediacaffeine.com/perspectives/environmental/put-cameras-on-a-peregrine-falcon-and-a-goshawk-prepare-to-be-amazed/ Makes driving the race car seem pedestrian. - Tony Drews From harmug at us.ibm.com Fri Sep 24 06:58:55 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 08:58:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod Message-ID: Runoff news Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. G. Michael Harmuth race car - 63 Spitfire From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 07:17:37 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (donmarshall at nefcom.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:17:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast Message-ID: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> We can watch the races live starting this morning at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/ According to the schedule, EP starts at 2:30 this afternoon (central time I think). Don -- From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 07:27:01 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:27:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction Message-ID: We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don -- From dave at microworks.net Fri Sep 24 08:18:17 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:18:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: <063721C0069240F489C07FA99E8096CA@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <063721C0069240F489C07FA99E8096CA@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF035256@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Site seems to have crashed -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Marshall Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:28 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 08:29:49 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:29:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF035256@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <486950.42473.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com> I was able to watch the T3/STU race and now they're showing the sighting lap for F500. --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Dave Riddle wrote: From: Dave Riddle Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction To: "FoTTriumph" Date: Friday, September 24, 2010, 9:18 AM Site seems to have crashed -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Marshall Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:28 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From billdentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 10:24:39 2010 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:24:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2A1C1F07E323-2B4-1BA8@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at :30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this fternoon. I am about an hour south and west of ROAD AMERICA. The weather this morning was weepy. Now it is cool (mid 50s) cloudy, and VERY windy. Bill Dentinger From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:05:31 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:05:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Message-ID: <778622.70766.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the connection here in southeast Wisconsin. Ernie From sm1ski at dslextreme.com Fri Sep 24 12:20:36 2010 From: sm1ski at dslextreme.com (sm1ski @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:20:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com From jerrybarr at charter.net Fri Sep 24 12:32:59 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (jerrybarr at charter.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:32:59 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Message-ID: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay ------Original Message------ From: Ernest Husmann Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the connection here in southeast Wisconsin. Ernie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone From riverside at southslope.net Fri Sep 24 12:38:34 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:38:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <002401cb5c17$b1f83cb0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> I'm getting "page error" messages on my computer art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Ernest Husmann" ; ; "FOT" Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 1:32 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby > sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 12:39:05 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:39:05 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: I still have it here, but it won't open on full screen. Sam Halkias is 5th now, under full course caution. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:32:59 -0400, wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby > sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 12:40:59 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Sep 24 12:46:01 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:46:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <25305.4132.qm@smtp102.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Working good in Canada -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: September 24, 2010 2:41 PM To: jerrybarr at charter.net Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 12:48:57 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:48:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: It might be an Internet Explorer problem. I tried it on IE and get error messages, but its working fine on my Opera browser and apparently Foxfire works too. They're back to green with Sam in 5th now. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:40:59 -0400, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby >> sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:50:49 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:50:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <330097.21580.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com> I'm now getting the stream via Firefox. It must be an Explorer issue. Ernie --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Don Marshall wrote: From: Don Marshall Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV To: jerrybarr at charter.net, ""Greg "Lunker" Hilyer"" Cc: "FOT" Date: Friday, September 24, 2010, 1:48 PM It might be an Internet Explorer problem. I tried it on IE and get error messages, but its working fine on my Opera browser and apparently Foxfire works too. They're back to green with Sam in 5th now. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:40:59 -0400, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:47:39 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. Go Sam! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 To: Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com From jaxonracing at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:57:26 2010 From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (jaxonracing at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:57:26 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net><20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> Message-ID: For me as well.... Go sam -----Original Message----- From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; ; Reply-To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. Go Sam! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 To: Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 13:01:22 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:01:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net><20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <604EBA45-360A-4976-8B3F-5DED62D8EA1E@earthlink.net> Spread out with Sam about 12 seconds back in 6th. Miata 1st - RX3 2nd - go Rotary! Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:57 PM, jaxonracing at yahoo.com wrote: > For me as well.... Go sam > -----Original Message----- > From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 > To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; bounces at autox.team.net>; > Reply-To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > > Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. > Go Sam! > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 > To: > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. >> Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ >> jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ >> lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jaxonracing at yahoo.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 13:38:39 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:38:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> <20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <604EBA45-360A-4976-8B3F-5DED62D8EA1E@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Miata 1st, Z car 2nd, RX3 3rd. Lost track of Sam - out of the top 6 but I can't find results. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 2:01 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > wrote: > Spread out with Sam about 12 seconds back in 6th. Miata 1st - RX3 > 2nd - go Rotary! > > > Jon Brakke in a Miata won EP. Back when I was working corners, he > was racing a Yenko Stinger. > > Irv Korey From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 14:19:08 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:19:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> References: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> Message-ID: <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:17 AM, donmarshall at nefcom.net wrote: > We can watch the races live starting this morning at > > http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/ > > According to the schedule, EP starts at 2:30 this afternoon > (central time > I think). Don > -- > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 14:28:29 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 15:28:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: References: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Irv Korey Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast To: Greg Lunker Hilyer On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, > thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. > Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and Scoring: *2:09:51pm* * * *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg Ira, Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 14:30:26 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:30:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <908807.58632.qm@web57615.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Yeah Marshall, Don thanks! Have you any idea the anxiety I went through when I lost the hook up via Explorer? Okay it wasn't really that bad but hopefully I made you feel the slightest bit of remorse. --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:17 AM, donmarshall at nefcom.net wrote: From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 14:41:22 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:41:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <68983.94252.qm@web57608.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping the marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. Enjoy, Ernie From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 14:48:59 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:48:59 EDT Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> In a message dated 09/24/2010 3:41:40 PM Central Daylight Time, ehusmann53 at yahoo.com writes: > Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping > the > marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. > > We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. > Amen to that, and I thought I heard he was on the pole in both races. I'll bet he's running those expensive FF flywheel bolts from Pegasus. Bill (Damdinger) From norlinengineering at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 15:14:47 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (James Norlin) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:14:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast Message-ID: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> Sam drove off at turn 5 and into the paddock around mid race. -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 3:28 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Irv Korey Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast To: Greg Lunker Hilyer On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, > thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. > Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and Scoring: *2:09:51pm* * * *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg Ira, Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net [The entire original message is not included] From awashatko at wi.rr.com Fri Sep 24 15:51:47 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:51:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> References: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> Message-ID: He broke his rear diff. He was running 5th/6th otherwise. Allen On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:14 PM, James Norlin wrote: > Sam drove off at turn 5 and into the paddock around mid race. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Irv Korey > Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 3:28 PM > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Irv Korey > Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast > To: Greg Lunker Hilyer > > > > > On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < > Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > >> Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But >> actually, >> thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. >> Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? >> > > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and > Scoring: > > *2:09:51pm* > * > * > *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg > Ira, > Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > > [The entire original message is not included] > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/awashatko at wi.rr.com > > Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 24 15:54:41 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:54:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kudos In-Reply-To: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> References: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2A4A3A164275-1724-1DE8@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing themselves on the stone. -----Original Message----- From: BillDentin at aol.com To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 3:48 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos In a message dated 09/24/2010 3:41:40 PM Central Daylight Time, ehusmann53 at yahoo.com writes: > Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping > the > marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. > > We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. > Amen to that, and I thought I heard he was on the pole in both races. I'll bet he's running those expensive FF flywheel bolts from Pegasus. Bill (Damdinger) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 16:18:25 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:18:25 EDT Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that > the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The > lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing > themselves on the stone. >>> > > Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. Surly the > vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? But for > sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The deterioration is > actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every spring, racers > in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but at four thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). Bill (Damdinger) From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 17:10:05 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:10:05 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kudos In-Reply-To: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> Message-ID: <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. Maybe it's the accent. Can you translate please Tim? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 17:44:02 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:44:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs and web-tv Message-ID: <7DC9FA28-CCF9-4A93-BAE4-42F9CD7A43D8@earthlink.net> Honestly, the last time I watched so much racing on a screen, Chris Economaki was doing the commentary. How cool to happen to see two guys I actually know - live - racing for National Championships - on a live web-cast - on a track I know... Sometimes I DO like technology. [Jeremy Treadway was 2nd in FF. He's the guy that bought Connie's 510 and made it beautiful in about 3 weeks]. Sorry to hear about your DNF Sam. AND - The only reason I know my way around that track is because Tony Drews let me do it in his car. That is a gift that keeps on giving. Have I said "thanks" lately Tony?! Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 24 19:57:59 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:57:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge up date 9-24-10 Message-ID: <5EE0A64E-BBC7-4E46-A346-25CCCFBC7501@aol.com> Amici Nothing really new to report. 53 badges are paid for so far. Cost is still $30 per badge. These are going to be made, so If you have paid, you will be getting one. Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or Mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361) If you are looking to see what they look like there are two ways. First way. You can ask me to send you the proof art for it. Or..... Second way. There is a pic posted on the FOT FaceBook Page. Thanks Chris Bock From mpendy at dishmail.net Fri Sep 24 22:05:48 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:05:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold Message-ID: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 24 22:28:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 00:28:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America In-Reply-To: <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8CD2A81475066BC-E1C-F041@Webmail-m116.sysops.aol.com> As a masonry contractor, one of Bill's last erections, was a monument to Bob Wismer's stunning S-2000 CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES win with MSCC. It was placed on the pathway heading Turn 5 at Road America. Tony should have shown you this monument so you could play 'biker' on it. -----Original Message----- From: Greg "Lunker" Hilyer To: BillDentin at aol.com Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. Maybe it's the accent. Can you translate please Tim? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/> lunkercars at earthlink.net From riverside at southslope.net Sat Sep 25 08:48:39 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:48:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com><2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> <8CD2A81475066BC-E1C-F041@Webmail-m116.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001001cb5cc0$c11adaf0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Joe, you're makiing it sound like Bill is done dingin'! Say it ain't so!! art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 11:28 PM Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America > As a masonry contractor, one of Bill's last erections, was a monument to > Bob > Wismer's stunning S-2000 CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES win with MSCC. > > It was placed on the pathway heading Turn 5 at Road America. Tony should > have > shown you this monument so you could play 'biker' on > it. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > To: BillDentin at aol.com > Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 6:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos > > > Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking > about. Maybe it's the accent. > Can you translate please Tim? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > >> In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, >> n197tr4 at cs.com writes: >> >> >>> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears >>> that >>> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >>> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been > rubbing >>> themselves on the stone. >>> >>> >>> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly >>> the >>> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But > for >>> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> > deterioration is >>> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, > racers >>> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. >> >> Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at > four >> thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). >> >> >> Bill (Damdinger) >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/> > lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From fpspitfire at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 09:42:57 2010 From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <873211577.402691.1285429377732.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Steve is running the 1500 in the blue car in F-Prod and the 1147 in the red car in H-Prod. Steve has always had is game together.B I wouldn't be surprised to see him with two wins after the two poles aaron ----- Original Message ----- From: "sm1ski @dslextreme.com" To: "George Harmuth" Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:20:36 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. B Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > B Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > B SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > B posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 25 10:18:48 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:18:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: <873211577.402691.1285429377732.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD2AE4785B87D2-1754-26882@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com> interesting guy....paddocked by himself at a remote area of the track....not anywhere near to anything near corner station 3. john reed (GT6) was hanging out on Friday ... all quiet and appeared ready to go. i'll be watching both races.... as you remember he was knocked out early in the race last year by an errant turn of someone else's wheel. -----Original Message----- From: fpspitfire at comcast.net To: sm1ski @dslextreme.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net; George Harmuth Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2010 10:42 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod Steve is running the 1500 in the blue car in F-Prod and the 1147 in the red car in H-Prod. Steve has always had is game together.B I wouldn't be surprised to see him with two wins after the two poles aaron ----- Original Message ----- From: "sm1ski @dslextreme.com" To: "George Harmuth" Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:20:36 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. B Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > B Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > B SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > B posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From dave at microworks.net Sat Sep 25 10:45:21 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:45:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New track in SoCal Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF03525F@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Located out by Palm Springs. It is only 475K for a founders family membership. This includes your entire family for life. But if this is a little steep you could just get the 125K standard membership. Let me know how many you want. lol http://thermal122.memfirstweb.net/Club/Scripts/Home/home.asp From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 25 10:48:25 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 11:48:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold In-Reply-To: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> References: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Message-ID: <20100925164738.7C88518767D@autox.team.net> I assume this is for a TR 3 or 4. It is normal to reinforce the intake manifold between the runner and the flange to prevent it from cracking there. One way to do that is to create a triangular piece of aluminum plate and have it welded to the flange and the top of the runners. - Tony Drews At 11:05 PM 9/24/2010, Mark Pendergrass wrote: >Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 >fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their >headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight >hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have >had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around >from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor >to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 25 10:55:06 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 18:55:06 +0200 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold In-Reply-To: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> References: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Message-ID: <000901cb5cd2$69caff70$3d60fe50$@com> My car does run Webers. I simply did bolt the Webers to the manifold and use shortened Overdrive springs as spacer so that the Webers can move it the engine does start to vibrate. The installation of the carbs is flexible. Maybe that prevent it from breaking? The manifold comes from Triumph Tune. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Mark Pendergrass Gesendet: Samstag, 25. September 2010 06:06 An: friends of triumph Betreff: [Fot] cracked manifold Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Sat Sep 25 14:06:26 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg Lunker Hilyer) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:06:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Steve Sargis H Prod Champion! Message-ID: <7B91792F-0811-4D7A-B98D-1E34B3B3AFDB@earthlink.net> Congratulations to Steve for a brilliant drive. With the win bagged, he continued breaking the track record in the Spit lap after lap. 2:39.0 I think! Lapped two thirds of the field. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 16:45:20 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:45:20 -0600 Subject: [Fot] High Plains Raceway video Message-ID: <20100925224448.88CA2187647@autox.team.net> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2NdtD38v-8 FoT If anybody's interested I just posted some video from High Plains Raceway in Colorado. Now that I have some spare time I will get caught up and post the Kastner Cup footage. Jim g # 102 From mail at myvrl.com Fri Sep 17 07:33:48 2010 From: mail at myvrl.com (The Vintage Racing League) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:33:48 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Fot] The 2010 Goodwood Revival Message-ID: <3889727.16531291284730428998.JavaMail.xncore@z101b25.ningops.com> A message to all members of The Vintage Racing League Once again, Lord March and his wonderful team have assembled the world's bext collection of historic and vintage race cars for the Goodwood Revival. ERA's, Ferrari's, Jaguars, Maserati's, Coopers and the largest assembly of BRM's, recognising the 60th anniversary of the marquee.  This event represents the pinnacle of historic motorsports in the world! Meet Stirling Moss, Nick Mason of Pink Floyd, Derek Bell, Jackie Oliver, Martin Brundel, Brian Redman, Bobby Rahal, Paddins Dowling and many other famous racing drivers as they compete on the historic Goodwood motor racing circuit. Friday is tune, test and grid prepaation day with a full race schedule on Saturday and Sunday, the 18th and 19th of September. Once again, the event has sold out with some 150,000 attendees expected to participate in the event. In addition to fabulous cars and racing, the event incorporates an airshow with hisoric planes to include Spitfires, Hurricanes and various bombers.   John Surtees Motor sport great John Surtees b the only man ever to be crowned world champion on two and four wheels b will be honoured with a special tribute over the three days. bBig Johnb will be reunited with many of the machines he rode or drove in period, from Triumph Tiger 70 motorcycle to the Surtees-Hart TS10 in which he won the Imola Gold Cup towards the end of his competition career. BRM The sixtieth anniversary of British Formula One constructor BRM will also be celebrated with more than 30 examples of the Bourne marque taking to the circuit for a cavalcade in addition to many of the drivers who raced b or in some instances, braved b the cars from 1948 to 1977. Star Drivers and Riders Star names racing this year include legends such as Sir Stirling Moss who will be out in his OSCA for the Madgwick Cup and Le Mans deity Tom Kristensen who will be taming a Ferrari 330LMB in the TT Celebration. Red Bull team principal and former F3000 man Christian Horner will also be driving in this one-hour race, up against the F1 squadbs designer Adrian Newey. Australian ace Wayne Gardner will also be a shoe-in for victory in the ever-popular Barry Sheene Memorial Trophy motorcycle race, the first part of which gets underway tomorrow. Aviation Aviation is a major constituent of the Revival and this year the seventieth anniversary of the Battle of Britain is naturally a key theme, with surviving veterans of the conflict in attendance. Air displays, along with The Freddie March Spirit of Aviation concours, add an extra dimension to the event and are not to be missed. Book now for 2011 - this event is a must for all :-)))) Warmest and happy regards from Goodwood Stephen Page Chairman & CEO The Vintage Racing League Visit The Vintage Racing League at: http://www.myvrl.com/?xg_source=msg_mes_network -------------------- To control which emails you receive on The Vintage Racing League, or to opt-out, go to: http://www.myvrl.com/profiles/profile/emailSettings?xg_source=msg_mes_network From mail at myvrl.com Sat Sep 18 05:36:01 2010 From: mail at myvrl.com (The Vintage Racing League) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:36:01 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Fot] Live from the Goodwood Revival 2010 - Day Two Message-ID: <29133715.25249471284809761307.JavaMail.xncore@z100412.ningops.com> A message to all members of The Vintage Racing League   Pre b62 Formula Juniors Ben Simms took a convincing victory in the Chichester Cup for pre b62 Formula Juniors from early leader, Sir John Chisholm. The latter blasted ahead from pole position aboard his Gemini Mk3A only for Elva man Simms to scythe past on the inside into Woodcote. At quarter-distance into the 20-minute race the order remained static as the safety car was deployed to attend to stricken cars. With racing resuming with ten minutes left to run, Chisholm and Simms resumed their private battle as they streaked ahead of the chasing pack. Simms was last of the late brakers as he fought to keep his twitchy short wheelbase car ahead of the faster Gemini. He held on to the flag to win by 0.4-second with Elva man Chris Drake fishing third some 29.7-second behind them. bHe didnbt make it easy,b said a delighted Simms. bThe safety car bunched us up but it was close right to the end once we began racing again. There was a lot of oil out there which focussed the attention.b   Mark Gillies claims victory aboard Mary Smithbs ERA A-type R3A Mark Gillies claimed Goodwood Trophy honours in crushing fashion aboard Mary Smithbs ERA A-type R3A on Saturday morning. The Detroit-based Briton had a poor start from the all ERA front row, losing out initially to J Mac Hulbert and Paddins Dowling, the latter taking the initiative as they headed through Madgwick towards Fordwater for the first time. Gillies moved up to second through the kink before St Marybs on the following lap, the gap to Dowling remaining static at 1.2-seconds to the end of the fourth lap. Into the fifth tour, Irishman Dowling experienced car trouble and retired shortly thereafter. Matt Grist moved his way up the order in the fastest of the Alfa Romeo Tipo Bs, taking second place with six minutes to go as Hulbert performed a series of heroic saves after oil spilled onto his rear tyres. Up front Gillies was unchallenged and led home Grist by eight seconds from Maserati driver Frank Stipler who jumped Hulbert in the dying stages. Julian Majzub finished fifth aboard his Alfa Romeo 308C. bI have a history of bad starts here,b said the victor later. bPaddins kept me honest in the opening laps and it was a shame that he retired. The carbs fantastic here. Itbs a magic car, a magic circuit and a magic event.b   Celebrating BRM The 2010 Goodwood Revival witnessed a special celebration of 60 years of the BRM marque. More than 30 cars spanning more than three decades of the Bourne squadbs history took to the circuit, ranging from the famous b infamous even b V16 P15 Mk1 to the Collier Collectionbs 1962 Formula One World Championship-winning R578 bOld Faithfulb. Among the many BRM bold boysb in attendance was Richard Attwood, who famously finished a fighting second in the 1968 Monaco Grand Prix on being recalled to the team at very short notice. The Le Mans victor said: bI had a good relationship with BRM during an era when it was doing relatively well. I really admired the effort of the Rubery Owen Group for sticking with it and racing for Great Britain.b   A Magical step back in time The Goodwood Revival really is a magical step back in time, a unique chance to revel in the glamour and allure of motor racing in the romantic time capsule of the golden era of motor racing at one of the worldbs most authentic circuits.   The Revival is the worldbs most popular historic motor race meeting and the only event of its kind to be staged entirely in the nostalgic time capsule of the 1940s, 50s and 60s that relives the glory days of Goodwood Motor Circuit. It is the biggest and best historic motor racing party of the year. The Revival offers visitors the opportunity to leave the bmodern worldb behind and join motor sport luminaries including Sir Stirling Moss, Richard Attwood, John Surtees and Derek Bell in an unabashed celebration of flat-out wheel-to-wheel racing around a classic racetrack, untouched by the modern world. Ticket Sales: Ticket Sales: +44 (0)1243 755055  E: ticket.office at goodwood.com (mailto:ticket.office at goodwood.com)| The Goodwood Estate, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0PX Visit The Vintage Racing League at: http://www.myvrl.com/?xg_source=msg_mes_network -------------------- To control which emails you receive on The Vintage Racing League, or to opt-out, go to: http://www.myvrl.com/profiles/profile/emailSettings?xg_source=msg_mes_network From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 14:44:47 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:44:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Sargis Wins HP Championship in his (other) Spitfire Message-ID: Congratulations to Steve Sargis - again http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=4012. From Billb at bnj.com Sun Sep 26 17:44:18 2010 From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:44:18 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Coronado In-Reply-To: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> Message-ID: <1B1F552A-F0F1-4C01-A6D4-0A1CD503E8A8@bnj.com> Big fun. Finished third against a bunch of listers a tipo 61 and Thor johnsons fine drive in his lotus. Huge crowd, lots to look at. Good event. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 24, 2010, at 3:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From s.janzen at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 18:26:02 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:26:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] NJMP (Millville) VRG Race report, brake failure and corner weighting Message-ID: There were four Triumphs out of about 135 entries at Millville this weekend. Dave Spiwak (TR2) and I (GT6) were in the same group, but did not get to do much racing together as Dave experienced fuel/ electrical(?) troubles all weekend. Dave Miller in his well prepared TR4 was in with the Porsches and some of the other fast stuff, and Kent Bain was running a Spitfire in the small bore group. New Jersey Motorsports Park has two decent nice tracks, and VRG runs a good event with tons of track time. Of note, in addition to this event in the Fall next year, they will be co-sponsoring one in May 2011 with VSCCA. The tracks are on the site of a WWII era air base, and there were vintage warbirds flying in and out all weekend, including this polished aluminum bomber that looked amazing (ok, so I don't know my planes). The Spring 2011 event will combine the races with a major vintage air show, including the Blue Angels (I know, they're not vintage). There's a really nice WWII air museum on the base, put together by all of the pilots and crew that operated out of Millville over the years. Brake failure - I loaded my car right after the last event (a fifteen lap race) without looking at it. Went to roll it out of the trailer and into the garage - decent puddle of tan fluid on the trailer floor in the driver's left engine bay area, and all around the tire. I figured it was oil - hey, it's a British car - forgetting that I'm running Brad Penn, which is green, not brown. Got it in the garage and took a look - no oil leaking from the usual places. Opened up the front master reservoir - bone dry! Don't know if this was going during the race - it had not lost fluid all weekend - or if it just cooked out after the race when the seal gave up. I pulled the caliper and the seals were a little "dry" and cracked on the edges where they bear on the pistons, though the seals were still flexible and intact. Apparently this will now become at least a seasonal rebuild - I don't think I have touched these for three years, other than changing the fluid. Question that I know has come up before - the bellows type dust seals were just crispy and crumbling. Is it worth installing new ones, or can we just run without them? I wonder if part of the reason for the brake failure is related to these - I just put in new pads, and had to push the pistons back into the caliper to do so. When I removed the pistons, the outer portion that sits in the area of the dust seals had black gunk on it - melted seals, which might have damaged the o-rings when the pistons were pushed back in? Corner weighting - I had been complaining of understeer, and was contemplating different springs, anti-roll bars, etc. First I took it to my friendly local shop and we spent a few hours with the scales. The driver's side front wheel was 110 lb over the right, and the cross- weights were off by almost that much. Adjusting the coil-overs and shimming the transverse rear spring on one side got the front in balance and the back within 40 lb (with my butt just in front of the rear axle, I'm surprised it's that close!). The handling difference was dramatic and amazing, especially since most courses are clockwise and all the excess weight was on the outside front. The car is now balanced with mild oversteer easily induced in most circumstances. I am now a big advocate of checking this (and of course the alignment) before you start spending money on parts. From SpiwakD at aol.com Sun Sep 26 18:35:47 2010 From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Message-ID: How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Sep 26 19:31:34 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:31:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100927013053.9176E187645@autox.team.net> You could shim the front spring with the low corner weight, or the one diagonal from the rear with low weight. - Tony At 07:35 PM 9/26/2010, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote: >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 21:20:47 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:20:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100927013053.9176E187645@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20100927032018.EF77718764B@autox.team.net> I hope to have a solution for that by next spring with adjustable spring perches. I have the IRS frame figured out, now I just need to go stare at the live axle frame for a while. Jim G. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 7:32 PM To: SpiwakD at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Corner weights You could shim the front spring with the low corner weight, or the one diagonal from the rear with low weight. - Tony At 07:35 PM 9/26/2010, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote: >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From mpendy at dishmail.net Sun Sep 26 21:43:30 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:43:30 -0700 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold Message-ID: <9FA758862CC14F9EBDCE50E1EFB66105@Pendys> List, got some good input as usual from many. Thanks Dave H. for the great pics. Have time between now and the upcomeing Double header to put the ideas to work. Thanks listers.......Mark Pendy TR4 #65 From sm1ski at dslextreme.com Mon Sep 27 09:38:56 2010 From: sm1ski at dslextreme.com (sm1ski @dslextreme.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:38:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sargis Wins HP Championship in his (other) Spitfire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: does anybody have pictures of the Sargis 1500 spit? My computer screen is kinda small. mike kowalski 1500 FP spit (in baskets) Raton, NM On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 2:44 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > Congratulations to Steve Sargis - again > > http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=4012. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 27 15:52:18 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:52:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Robert Dardano Message-ID: <666D8145-5060-48ED-9456-9155B723D164@aol.com> Your check has arrived. Thank you Chris From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 27 17:19:23 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 23:19:23 GMT Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Message-ID: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower A-arms to lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can also move weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to the light rear corner. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: SpiwakD at aol.com To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4ca126bde0ae61dd29st01duc From whitedog72 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 27 19:35:37 2010 From: whitedog72 at hotmail.com (f s) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:35:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire Message-ID: I have a DCOE 40 on my 79 spitfire. The engine is 9 to 1 compression. Mild cam, ported and relieved head, balanced, very lite rods, flat top pistons, Electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and a vacum retard distributor. It runs ok.... but does not idle well and seems like it has a miss at mid range rpms. 2500 to 3500 rpms. It also wants to run at 20 degrees before top dead center, I would think it would run better and idle smooth at 1000 rpms. But it does not. I have tried several different jet and air correctors and tried several timing settings. Does anyone have experience with DCOE 40 on warmed over Spitfire 1500 engines. Thanks Andy From andre at gt6.ca Mon Sep 27 19:39:52 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 21:39:52 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mont Tremblant Race Weekend Message-ID: The VARAC drivers we're in good form this past weekend at Circuit Mont Tremblant in Quebec Canada. http://www.lecircuit.com/index.cfm?lang=en Myself this was my 2nd race weekend of the year and I was having a blast learning the track and improve my skill set. Race #2 Sunday Morning. http://vimeo.com/15331539 Race #3 Sunday Afternoon. http://vimeo.com/15331903 Hope you enjoy the clips. Cheers. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 27 19:42:07 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:42:07 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100928014207.PEWU23084.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> It might have something to do with the uneven runner lengths that are mandatory with running a single DCOE on any Spitfire engine that has an 8-port head. At idle you can have one of two things: 1: the inside two cylinders running rich compared to the outside two 2. The outside two cylinders running lean compared to the inside two Neither of those options are particularly good. Two DCOEs will have a much more balanced runner arrangement since you have 4 barrels going into 4 inlets on the head. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of f s Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 6:36 PM To: triumph friends Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire I have a DCOE 40 on my 79 spitfire. The engine is 9 to 1 compression. Mild cam, ported and relieved head, balanced, very lite rods, flat top pistons, Electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and a vacum retard distributor. It runs ok.... but does not idle well and seems like it has a miss at mid range rpms. 2500 to 3500 rpms. It also wants to run at 20 degrees before top dead center, I would think it would run better and idle smooth at 1000 rpms. But it does not. I have tried several different jet and air correctors and tried several timing settings. Does anyone have experience with DCOE 40 on warmed over Spitfire 1500 engines. Thanks Andy _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Sep 27 23:33:29 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 00:33:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> References: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> Also, we can use shims between the rear axle and the spring as Kas described for the original cars. - Tony At 06:19 PM 9/27/2010, Joe Boruch wrote: >Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower A-arms to >lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can also move >weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to the light >rear corner. Joe(B) > >---------- Original Message ---------- >From: SpiwakD at aol.com >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Corner weights >Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT > >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net From s.janzen at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 07:03:10 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:03:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> References: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I shimmed one side of the transverse leaf spring on the GT6 where it bolts on top of the differential. Used cut-down stainless steel backing shims from disc brakes. Worked great and relatively painless to do. Shimming the front coil springs will be a bit more trouble, but the results were well worth the effort on my car. On Sep 28, 2010, at 1:33 AM, Tony Drews wrote: Also, we can use shims between the rear axle and the spring as Kas described for the original cars. - Tony At 06:19 PM 9/27/2010, Joe Boruch wrote: > Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower > A-arms to > lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can > also move > weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to > the light > rear corner. Joe(B) > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: SpiwakD at aol.com > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Corner weights > Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT > > How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From jason at multivintage.com Tue Sep 28 09:52:30 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:52:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Mont Tremblant Race Weekend In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great footage, Nice job. What an awesome track. I love race tracks in the autumn glow. Way to leave that GT6 in the dust. Thanks for the footage. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:39 PM, Andre Rousseau wrote: > The VARAC drivers we're in good form this past weekend at Circuit Mont > Tremblant in Quebec Canada. > > http://www.lecircuit.com/index.cfm?lang=en > > Myself this was my 2nd race weekend of the year and I was having a > blast learning the track and improve my skill set. > > Race #2 Sunday Morning. > http://vimeo.com/15331539 > > Race #3 Sunday Afternoon. > http://vimeo.com/15331903 > > Hope you enjoy the clips. > > Cheers. > > A. > > -- > Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca > http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ > '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ > #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ > Ottawa, ON, Canada > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 10:45:43 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:45:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results Message-ID: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have seen others reporting on their Triumph race weekends, so as team manager for RiffRAF Racing (ChumpCar World Series, '75 TR6), I will also. To put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the following: * distributor * alternator (twice) * fan belt * cap and wires (twice) * rotor button (twice) * front carb jet and reset float * fuel pump * exhaust system central mount On the bright side, we did get to race at Sebring, and would have been somewhat competitive had we been able to keep the car running. So much for thinking we had it prepped adequately. Next race we will do better. MyLaps results here: http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=599902 Pictures of event (pretty easy to find us, we're the only Triumph, look for the camo #0) here: http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=599902 (pics 42-51, 216-217, 247---217 is really cool!) Finished 24th out of 34 cars, but were one of only 15 that took the checkered flag. As a side note...what is the group's opinion on electric fuel pumps vs. mechanical in racing applications. Some on our team are concerned about electric pump reliability while others don't feel the mechanical pump is capable of sustained high RPM operation for hours at a time (I personally witnessed fuel boiling (!) in the mechanical fuel pump we are using and we melted the nylon filter screen in the aftermarket mechanical pump we had). Interested in the group's thoughts. Thanks, Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 28 10:56:37 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:56:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results In-Reply-To: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > To > put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag > fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the > following: > * distributor > * alternator (twice) > * fan belt > * cap and wires > (twice) > * rotor button (twice) > * front carb jet and reset float > * fuel pump > * exhaust system central mount Too bad the weekend was frustrating, but at least you were running at the end. My question is: Does the cost of the parts you replace at the track count against the amount you spend on the car? Or are these parts considered "free"? From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 11:12:14 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:12:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results In-Reply-To: References: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <848110.77656.qm@web52507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> As long as we substitute used, stock parts, they are free. Fan belts and other "consumables" are OK new. We have some leeway as we're considerably slower in a straight line than most cars on the course. If we were in danger of winning something, we'd be looked at a lot closer... :-) ________________________________ From: John Herrera To: tr6driver at yahoo.com; Friends of Triumph Sent: Tue, September 28, 2010 12:56:37 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results > To > put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag > fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the > following: > * distributor > * alternator (twice) > * fan belt > * cap and wires > (twice) > * rotor button (twice) > * front carb jet and reset float > * fuel pump > * exhaust system central mount Too bad the weekend was frustrating, but at least you were running at the end. My question is: Does the cost of the parts you replace at the track count against the amount you spend on the car? Or are these parts considered "free"? From jsnook at wcnet.org Tue Sep 28 11:24:14 2010 From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:24:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Message-ID: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Hey all, I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. Thanks, Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com From budscars at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 11:35:01 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:35:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race References: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Message-ID: <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. Racer Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Snook" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > Hey all, > > I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine > tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any > FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. > > Thanks, > > Jeff Snook > http://www.snooksdreamcars.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Sep 28 12:05:25 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:05:25 -0600 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race In-Reply-To: <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> References: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org>, <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> Message-ID: The Renault powered Bunce Buck (Hey, I'm on the list) will be there racing in the hmod Puckett Cup race. I start the trek from New Mexico tomorrow AM....................Cheers Henry Morrison (TR4, TR6, TR7) > From: budscars at comcast.net > To: jsnook at wcnet.org; fot at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:35:01 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually > pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. > Racer Bud > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Snook" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM > Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > > > Hey all, > > > > I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine > > tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any > > FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Jeff Snook > > http://www.snooksdreamcars.com > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dos_gusanos at msn.com From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 13:59:43 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:59:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Looking for Euro differential for IRS car... Message-ID: <515928.10171.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Or at least a taller rear end ratio. Lacey is just way too slow...we need something with more top end than the standard 3.7:1 fitted to carbed cars. For example, by the time we got to the main straight at Roebling we were already at our rev limit. An overdrive would put us way over the $500 value limit. The 3.45:1 from PI cars would be great...but...finding one on this side of the pond? So...any suggestions? Before anyone suggests taller tires, we're running 205/50-15's Falkens on stock rims...getting the car as low as possible for handling purposes and to remain within cost rules. Thanks! Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing #0 1975 TR6 ChumpCar From horizonracing at msn.com Tue Sep 28 14:21:24 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony & Annie Garmey) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:21:24 -0700 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Message-ID: Jeff, we'll have bill harts devin tr along with a 356 , mgb & a can am mclaren. Look forward to seeing you :) RACER BUD wrote: >Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually >pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. >Racer Bud >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jeff Snook" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM >Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > >> Hey all, >> >> I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine >> tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any >> FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jeff Snook >> http://www.snooksdreamcars.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com From vintage.racer at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 14:35:51 2010 From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (vintage.racer at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 20:35:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race In-Reply-To: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Message-ID: <5740914.1965798.1285706151517.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hi Jeff: Look for #67, red TR4 "The Flying Brick" in action at Infineon this weekend. Look forward to seeing you. Gary Horstkorta ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Snook" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24:14 AM Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Hey all, I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. Thanks, Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintage.racer at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 28 21:34:40 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 21:34:40 -0600 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CA2B3D0.4030708@bradakis.com> What size chokes are you using? You might get some improvement in the idle to midrange using the next size smaller, increasing the intake charge velocity. mjb. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 30 11:34:04 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:34:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Message-ID: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander From riverside at southslope.net Thu Sep 30 13:39:07 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 14:39:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Any advantage to flipping them upside down?? art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:34 PM Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 > Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. > > any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components > > or > > machine work we can do > > looking for the latest information as it is stock. > > default is to replace with stock components. > > thanks! > > joe alexander > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Sep 30 15:42:08 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 07:42:08 +1000 Subject: [Fot] re question on lower a-arm/trunnion Message-ID: I have had no end of problems with reproduction trunnions supplied by various firms. it seems they are all made in the same Indian or Chinese back-yard and come via the UK wholesalers. They have a distinctive polished look to them, suggesting they are not a good bronze, but rather brass. The casting is very poor, the oiling slot is not correctly made, the cap that stops the oil dripping out is not fitted correctly (so it leaks), and worst of all, the thread is so sloppy, they are worse than 30 year old Triumph ones. If someone has a source of genuine or quality left hand ones, pls let me know Terry O'Beirne Australia From adcronin at ameritech.net Thu Sep 30 16:15:45 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (Dan Cronin) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 18:15:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 In-Reply-To: <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <5D959673-FBDF-40A4-ADAB-061F4220E3D0@ameritech.net> The advantage to flipping the lower a-arms is to lower the front of the car about 1/2". Dan C On Sep 30, 2010, at 3:39 PM, riverside wrote: > Any advantage to flipping them upside down?? > > art de armond > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:34 PM > Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 > > >> Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. >> >> any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components >> >> or >> >> machine work we can do >> >> looking for the latest information as it is stock. >> >> default is to replace with stock components. >> >> thanks! >> >> joe alexander >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin at ameritech.net From ablake2 at austin.rr.com Thu Sep 30 16:42:43 2010 From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:42:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Video question Message-ID: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg From tpettenati at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 17:41:16 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:41:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> References: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Message-ID: <470995.60205.qm@web180306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Greg, I haven't tried the GoPro HD, just the standard definition. While I liked the view with the wide angle lens, the picture was very washed out by the sun. So when I had a chance to try the standard lens and the wide angle back to back, I preferred the standard lens. I ended up buying the ContourHD over the GoPro. The jury is still out on if this was the best choice. I've had a few issues with the ContourHD. It froze during the last race I recorded. I'm still trying to figure that one out. It may be vibration causing a momentary disconnect on the internal battery. The sound isn't that great with a lot of wind noise. There are a few fixes for the noise issues, such as adding foam over the mic, or adding an external mic. You wouldn't have that problem in a closed car, or one with a full windshield. IOPORT racing has a good comparison of the GoPro / ChaseCam / ContourHD. http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=C To see a ContourHD video from our last race. http://contour.com/stories/111807 Cheers, Tim Pettenati ________________________________ From: Greg & Alison Blake To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, September 30, 2010 3:42:43 PM Subject: [Fot] Video question Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tpettenati at yahoo.com From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 30 18:53:01 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 00:53:01 GMT Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Message-ID: <20100930.205301.8821.0@webmail03.dca.untd.com> Often the used ones have worn thru the bushings and into the a-arm at the inner end. They then need to be machined round. I use solid bushings in my a-arms. Often the bushings need to be machined to fit the a-arm. You can make and fit offset bushings if you want to gain some camber by making the lower a-arms effectively a little longer. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:34:04 -0400 Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander ____________________________________________________________ Moms Asked to Return to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4ca5314ec7d5d7c993st06duc From malaboge at aol.com Thu Sep 30 19:22:12 2010 From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:22:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 In-Reply-To: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2F1E355EE963-11A4-69C0@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com> Joe- A few rambling thoughts... 1. If you still have the old style trunions (the ones with the pin firmly installed ala TR3) chuck it. Can't recall 'xactely when TR went to the later style but a 63 may still have that setup. Use the late TR4A/6 setup with the additional castor with the TR4a style upper ball joint. 2. If you have the above setup, remove the bushings from the outer ends of the a arms and just use the TR4A/6 plastic bushes. With this you can use a larger pivot bolt (5/8" I think). 3. Inner lower a-arm bushes can be had in many different types (delrin, poly whatevers) from many suppliers. Rotating those arms will give a bit of a drop in stance. 4. Again ifits an early style with the two bolt end plates on the fulcrum pin, reweld that whole area. You can also attach some "wrap around" supports just inside of those plates and weld them to the frame...careful on the outer side of the frame so that you don't impinge on the movement of the spring pan. So many mods...so few cars left... Nick in Nor Cal ps I can hardly speak without the use of many gestures...so if this doesn't make any sense, lemme no and I'll try to unobfuscate...is that a word? -----Original Message----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 10:34 am Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/malaboge at aol.com From dave at microworks.net Thu Sep 30 21:00:30 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:00:30 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <5A0A24D914EB45C6BDB72E10A9E60723@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> <5A0A24D914EB45C6BDB72E10A9E60723@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF0352C0@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> We have used the GoPro Standard for years. Most of the guys we run karts with have upgraded to the wide angle HD. No issues we've seen with "washed out" video and we're running in the bright Arizona Sunshine. Wind noise is also not an issue with the GoPro Here are some good examples with the HD camera mounted on the chin of his helmet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwvBsSDsF88 This one includes him crashing and flipping the kart. Note that he is driving right at the setting sun to see how the video is still not washed out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 30 22:25:59 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 22:25:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20101001042536.15BCA187678@autox.team.net> Greg The video I posted last week was done with a go pro. They are a bit power hungry requiring a new set of lithium batteries every 40 -50 minutes. They use standard SD cards. It cut off for some reason with one or two laps to go in the Kastner Cup. I've had pretty good luck overall but the sound isn't very good if the camera is in the wind. I'm going with the chase cam next year because I already have the traqmate. I have a second HD camcorder I use sometimes to the rear and sometimes on my instruments. The sound is poor on that one too even with baffling over the mic. I don't have a port for a remote mic which would solve that problem. Here's the link again, you can judge the video & sound quality for yourself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2NdtD38v-8 Jim G -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg & Alison Blake Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:43 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Video question Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Sep 30 01:28:54 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 03:28:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive part VIII Message-ID: Hi, Shot some in-car last Sunday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toz07a_2RVI enjoy! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tpettenati at yahoo.com Wed Sep 1 12:36:58 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 11:36:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fw: SFR Vintage Thunderhill Sept. 11-12 Message-ID: <668224.40962.qm@web180304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> FYI Looks like San Fran SCCA could use a few more entries, and are waving the late fee. You can also run on Friday Sept 10 with Hooked On Driving in their race prepped group. Using gift code "SCCA2010", drops the entry fee -$45 to $240 for the Friday. See link below. I'm planing on taking the Spit, wife is driving. Anyone else going? Cheers, Tim ----- Forwarded Message ---- Subject: SFR Vintage Classic Schedule & Entry Form Now Available The SFR Vintage Classic Sports Car Festival is less than two weeks away - - September 11-12 at Thunderhill Park. There is still plenty of room in all five grids: Group 1 Small Bore Production Group 2 T/A 2.5 Challenge Group 3 Small Bore Formula and Sport Racer Group 4 Historic Stock CarGroup 5 Big Bore In fact, we really need at least five more entries in each group to insure good racing for drivers, workers and spectators alike. If you have a friend who hasn't entered yet, encourage them to come out and join the fun. SFR is waiving the late fee for all entries received prior to the event. You will find the entry form, schedule and event regulations on the September 11-12 calendar page on www.sfrscca.org Here are the direct links to: Vintage Entry Form September 11-12 Schedule Supplementary Regulations There is also an option for Friday practice time with Hooked on Driving. See September 10 Info If you have already entered, your acceptance letter with complete event information will be emailed to you on Thursday, September 2. Be sure to read the letter! Some schedule changes may be made if entries remain at their current level. For information on car eligibility or car-related questions: Bill Godwin, Vintage Chief - Call (925) 200-7722 vintage at sfrscca.org For entry information or assistance: Region Office - 888-995-7222office at sfrscca.org From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 07:06:55 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 09:06:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Swag Message-ID: Gang, Is there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any interest in badges from FOT members? Chris Sent from my IPhone From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 2 07:51:43 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:51:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD18BD1B85E9FB-1120-C3E9@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> From: Christopher Bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:06 am CHRIS! Badges have been brought up in the past and it would be very cool. It would need a 'champion' to get the badges produced and orders solicited....and distributed. I would be in for two, at least. In the meantime we do have a few FOT DECALS that are available for distribution. I'd like to think we are ready for such a badge after over 10 years of succesful non-organizational operation. Joe A Subject: [Fot] Swag Gang, s there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any nterest in badges from FOT members? Chris Sent from my IPhone ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Sep 2 09:28:29 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:28:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bonneville / Off normal subject Message-ID: Here is a new endevor for you adventurious guys to try. We have the correct size engine to compete with them. Some of you East coast guys my know some of the people on this list. Udo was at Watkins Glen with his Lister- Corvete two years ago during the Historics. R. Johns Udo is white hair guy with the biggest smile, he built this car from scratch in his garage here in Maryland. From: Udo Horn [mailto:vintagethunder at hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:32 AM To: Jeanne Horn; Jack Iliff; Bob Harvey; b thompson Corvette; carbdoctor at yahoo.com; Charles Venable; Dana cadena; Erich Horn; Fred Mullauer; gary barnes; hein frank; Jack Biggs; JD Evans; JEFFREY JACOBS; Jeff sligh; jim allen; jim bartlett; Jim Mullins; Jim Vertichio; John Sabel; John Schell; keith Turk; lyn hodges watts; Marc Mehl; Mark (ROANOKE, VA) Gobble; Mark Ward; Mark Leary; russ eierman; sam moses; steve george; steve kramer; Tammie Boyette; tiff davis; Tom and Tracey Saunders; Tom Falconer; Udo Horn; W Horn; wilton zaiser Subject: FW: b'ville fyi ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: tylertownsley at verizon.net To: vintagethunder at hotmail.com Subject: Re: b'ville Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 21:22:25 -0700 Hello All......Group shot taken at Bonneville impound after we qualified for the G/GMS record (2 liter engine, normally aspirated on gasoline...120 cubic inches). The following morning we backed up our run and set the record at 178.835 mph. http://deliquescence.net/~tyler/misc/bv1.jpg From budscars at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 10:32:01 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 09:32:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES References: <8CD18BD1B85E9FB-1120-C3E9@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: "Badges!!...I don't got to show you no stinkin' badges!!" (:>) Racer Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:51 AM Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES > From: Christopher Bock > To: FoTTriumph > Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:06 am > > CHRIS! > > Badges have been brought up in the past and it would be very cool. > > It would need a 'champion' to get the badges produced and orders > solicited....and distributed. > > I would be in for two, at least. > > In the meantime we do have a few FOT DECALS that are available for > distribution. > > I'd like to think we are ready for such a badge after over 10 years of > succesful non-organizational operation. > > Joe A > > Subject: [Fot] Swag > > > > Gang, > s there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any > nterest in badges from FOT members? > Chris > Sent from my IPhone > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Sep 2 16:08:41 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 08:08:41 +1000 Subject: [Fot] FOT BADGES Message-ID: how do i get a FOT sticker or 2 for the race car?? terry Australia From seacubeco at aol.com Thu Sep 2 20:24:05 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 22:24:05 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> Message-ID: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> >>> Amici >>> >>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>> >>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>> >>> >>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>> >>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>> 40 piece minimum order. >>> normal price with out the fee is: >>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>> >>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>> good deed for the FOT community. >>> >>> $30 per badge >>> >>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) >>> include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>> >>> >>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by >>> then I will refund everyones money. >>> >>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>> >>> >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >> > = From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 21:41:00 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 23:41:00 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Message-ID: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? From norlinengineering at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 22:24:16 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 21:24:16 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> Message-ID: <44F6D5DCD7C34CF2BCF6D8B1F1B09FB9@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Dang this is going to get expensive. I've not only got to buy a badge bar, I've got to by a street going Triumph to mount it on. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Christopher Bock Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:24 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion >>> Amici >>> >>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>> >>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>> >>> >>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>> >>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>> 40 piece minimum order. >>> normal price with out the fee is: >>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>> >>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>> good deed for the FOT community. >>> >>> $30 per badge >>> >>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include >>> your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>> >>> >>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then >>> I will refund everyones money. >>> >>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>> >>> >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >> > = _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 22:33:52 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 00:33:52 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <1A1B3D4B-425C-418C-B6C6-099CCD676E31@aol.com> 3 badges are committed to. I was just informed that the art work didn't show in the email. I was going to use the FOT coat of arms that is on the webpage. Chris Sent from my IPhone On Sep 2, 2010, at 11:41 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici > > I am willing to champion this cause........ > > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > am thinking of a 3 inch badge. > > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > > The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > I will refund everyones money. > > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > > > Chris > > P.S. what about banners or flags? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 3 05:33:00 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 07:33:00 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Chris, Excellent! I would be in for (4) of them. We should agree on the configuration and artwork. I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. If you are on this list you should consider participating. The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect of our TRIUMPHS in racing. Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the 60s. (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. Thanks! -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 3 07:08:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 09:08:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] CHRIS MARX' VITON REAR CRANK SEAL- 20 pieces in the mail Message-ID: <8CD198046CC3541-1CD4-FD40@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Chris says the seals are in the mail from Germany to Jesup. There are 20 of them, until the next shipment Those who have already paid may have to nudge me. I think 10 are spoken for already The last cost number I got from Chris was $66. No mark up here. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Modified Scroll Seals are available on an exchange basis from me. The new Scroll Seal Centering tool with correct dimensions is also available from me. The Scroll Seal Centering tool will also be available through major distributors like BPNW Picture of centering tool is at: photobucket.com/ambro ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From tr6driver at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 07:15:10 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 06:15:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <858416.74961.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Count me in for 1 Jamie ________________________________ From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" To: SeaCubeCo at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 3, 2010 7:33:00 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Chris, Excellent! I would be in for (4) of them. We should agree on the configuration and artwork. I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. If you are on this list you should consider participating. The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect of our TRIUMPHS in racing. Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the 60s. (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. Thanks! -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 3 08:17:09 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:17:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi, Count me in for two. Do you want to paypal the $$$ now or can we wait 'till you have the artworkready? rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 10:39:03 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:39:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Put me down for one. Jim G # 102 From billb at bnj.com Fri Sep 3 11:01:11 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:01:11 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Badges In-Reply-To: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2DED91E3-F85E-4237-8466-9668CE29999E@bnj.com> I'll take two From garygret at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 3 11:26:54 2010 From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:26:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Sep 3 12:08:15 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 14:08:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <470937.31218.qm@smtp101.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> One for me Paul MacDonald -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of christopher bock Sent: September 2, 2010 11:41 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com From REK46 at aol.com Fri Sep 3 12:34:55 2010 From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 14:34:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Message-ID: <3f2d5.6570cb37.39b299cf@aol.com> I'll take one...rick In a message dated 9/3/2010 1:57:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, garygret at sbcglobal.net writes: I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 13:03:41 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:03:41 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: I will need 3. If my kids get on craigslist again, this could go up! Ty ------Original Message------ From: Jim Gray Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Badges Sent: Sep 3, 2010 9:39 AM Put me down for one. Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 13:16:12 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:16:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01cb4b9c$78e07b30$6aa17190$@net> I'll go for one Craig Frederick, MD -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Schneider Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 1:27 PM To: christopher bock; FoTTriumph Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wensley_tr at comcast.net From chasgee at aol.com Fri Sep 3 13:19:53 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 15:19:53 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD19B41F22BDCE-2134-94C0@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Chris, Thanks for doing this. I'll take 2, but will go to 4 if you need the quantity to make the order. Paypal on its way. Chuck Gee -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com From jsnook at wcnet.org Fri Sep 3 13:32:13 2010 From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:32:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: <005b01cb4b9e$b5ae5c10$210b1430$@org> I'll take one. Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com From gwizracing at cfu.net Fri Sep 3 13:32:32 2010 From: gwizracing at cfu.net (Gary Wiezorek) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:32:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> I'll take one. Gary Wiezorek Christopher Bock wrote: >>>> Amici >>>> >>>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>>> >>>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>>> >>>> >>>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>>> >>>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>>> 40 piece minimum order. >>>> normal price with out the fee is: >>>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>>> >>>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>>> good deed for the FOT community. >>>> >>>> $30 per badge >>>> >>>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) >>>> include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>>> >>>> >>>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by >>>> then I will refund everyones money. >>>> >>>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Chris >>>> >>>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >>>> >> = >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gwizracing at cfu-cybernet.net From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 15:45:06 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 17:45:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6EECD1750D164B7D84239CD030CE9ADD@INSPIRON> Cris thanks for the effort put me down for 2. Can this company make patches for a fire suit form the same art work. I would take 2 of those as well thanks rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 7:33 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each > Chris, > > Excellent! > > I would be in for (4) of them. > > We should agree on the configuration and artwork. > > I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. > > If you are on this list you should consider participating. > > The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect > of > our TRIUMPHS in racing. > > Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the > 60s. > > (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) > > The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. > > Thanks! > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: christopher bock > To: FoTTriumph > Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm > Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each > > > Amici > I am willing to champion this cause........ > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > m thinking of a 3 inch badge. > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > will refund everyones money. > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > Chris > P.S. what about banners or flags? > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 3 16:28:25 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 18:28:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: Amici, So far I have commitments for 40 badges and payments for 10. I know there is more people on the list that are interested. This might sound like me being a money grubbing a-hole but without the money the badges will not get done. There is still plenty of time to get the money in. Thank you to all I will keep the list posted with what is going on Thank you again Chris Bock On Sep 2, 2010, at 11:41 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici > > I am willing to champion this cause........ > > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > am thinking of a 3 inch badge. > > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > > The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > I will refund everyones money. > > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > > > Chris > > P.S. what about banners or flags? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From budscars at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 17:55:46 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:55:46 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fw: United States Grand Prix Message-ID: The organizers of the United States Grand Prix have unveiled the design of the all-new track in Austin, Texas. The Formula 1 circuit will host the USGP beginning in 2012 and is scheduled to continue until 2021 http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/09/new-circuit-unveiled-for-u-s-grand-prix/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of moz-screenshot-3.png] From stlnyc at msn.com Fri Sep 3 19:54:49 2010 From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:54:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cline cam Message-ID: Amici- Does anyone have any information for a Rick Cline cam #289-6? Fred Hodgson From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 06:48:10 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 08:48:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump Message-ID: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of it. Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it into the engine? Thanks, Bill From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 4 07:53:23 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 09:53:23 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> GOOD ONE! Sean would like to install one in #197. -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 7:48 am Subject: [Fot] accusump Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of t. ny advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it nto the engine? hanks, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Sat Sep 4 08:45:12 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 10:45:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <5F517281-1239-4F00-8081-0C554971BD8D@aol.com> I believe that all depends on the car and engine bring used. That little bit of extra info might help My friend has his tank next to him where the other seat would be with a manual switch to turn it on and off. It is plumbed into the block at the oil filter. His engine was produced in a way that there was an external oil line from the rear of the block to the oil filter. It is a MGB 5 main block. Just make sure you have the check valve in the correct direction. Chris Sent from my IPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 9:53 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > GOOD ONE! Sean would like to install one in #197. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 7:48 am > Subject: [Fot] accusump > > > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > t. > ny advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > nto the engine? > hanks, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 4 09:35:10 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 09:35:10 -0600 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: Mine is mounted on the shelf behind the seats. Avoid mounting it in the trunk behind the axle. I put mine there The first time and it was enough to cause oversteer where I didn't have oversteer before. I moved it behind the seats and balance returned. My car is street legal with two seats or I would have probably put it on the right side floor toward the rear. I used AN - 10 line right to the oil Galley on the left side of the block. Jim g #102 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 6:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's > version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to > plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From fasttrs at yahoo.com Sat Sep 4 10:42:26 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:42:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <5A0F7162-8BCE-4D30-A792-5F20C084128F@yahoo.com> I have mine plumbed into the boss directly above the pressure regulator on the side of the block. Mike TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 7:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 4 11:18:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 12:18:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <20100904171736.F3E56187649@autox.team.net> What Jim describes below is what I consider to be a best practice (plumb it directly in to the oil gallery, use large tubing). I too have mine mounted on the shelf behind the seats so I could fit a passenger seat. Mine is plumbed into the oil cooler / filter return line using a T fitting and there is a check valve in the oil cooler line before the T fitting so that it won't push oil in the wrong direction. That's usually the 2nd best alternative plumbing, but can be more expedient to install. One thing to think about too is a manual actuation ball valve vs. the electric valve. Mine has an electric valve which means that I don't forget and leave it open when I shut off the engine (it's one of the things powered by the ignition switch). I have a separate switch (secondary to the ignition switch) so that I can turn on the ignition without turning the Accusump on, and I can shut the Accusump off on the cool down lap while at high revs / high pressure. I have an older style electric valve - the newer style ones behave oddly. I believe that they don't flow a lot of volume when filling the accusump but DO flow a lot when emptying it, but am not as familiar with that. - Tony Drews At 10:35 AM 9/4/2010, Jim Gray wrote: >Mine is mounted on the shelf behind the seats. Avoid mounting it in >the trunk behind the axle. I put mine there >The first time and it was enough to cause oversteer where I didn't >have oversteer before. I moved it behind the seats and balance >returned. My car is street legal with two seats or I would have >probably put it on the right side floor toward the rear. >I used AN - 10 line right to the oil >Galley on the left side of the block. > >Jim g >#102 > >Sent from my iPhone > >On Sep 4, 2010, at 6:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" > wrote: > >>Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's >>version of >>it. >>Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to >>plumb it >>into the engine? >>Thanks, Bill From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Sep 4 15:45:20 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:45:20 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <4C82BDF0.6010308@charter.net> Bill I have a 3 qt accusump mounted on the tunnel next to the seat. Easy reach for the ball valve and the 10 AN hose that runs to a T in between the remote oil filter and cooler and the filter bypass plate. I also use a check valve in the circuit. I considered running the line directly to the oil gallery (plugs on the side of the engine) but had hardware issues. My installation is on a 1.3L Spitfire. Good Luck Glenn On 9/4/2010 8:48 AM, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 15:56:37 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:56:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump Message-ID: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. Andre, great photos, thanks. Now to order all the bits I need. Thanks again, Bill From cartravel at pobox.com Sun Sep 5 09:06:07 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:06:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <4C83B1DF.4030101@pobox.com> I never got around to installing one in my TR3, but I was thinking of using a small one in the engine compartment. I believe Greg Hilyer has his there. You may want to consider these pressure drop calculations to help determine the hose size. 20w-50 oil at 212 deg F flowing 2 gallons per minute (that's 15 liters/min Chris) through a 10 ft length of AN 10, 8 or 6 hose will drop 0.9, 2.3 and 6.4 psi (6.2, 16 and 44 kPa), respectively. You'd probably have more pressure drop in the valves and fittings than you would have in AN6 hose. 2 gpm would empty a 1 1/2 quart accusump in 11 seconds. I have asked many people the flow rate from a typical oil pump and no one seems to know. Makes me wonder about these high flow oil pumps. "How much does it flow?". "Oh, I don't know." Larry WILLIAM TOBIN wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 10:00:35 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:00:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks Message-ID: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a shock threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the gas peddle. Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have to be soaked threw out for this to happen Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would correct this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the information So if your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send it again thanks rob From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Sep 5 10:31:31 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:31:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <000c01cb4d17$cd8c4660$68a4d320$@com> Is this eligible to shift OD with short currents over the body? To shift the OD I have two lines: One over a relays and the second current is controlled by the relays. So no big Amps on my shift knob. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rob Gesendet: Sonntag, 5. September 2010 18:01 An: FoT Triumph Betreff: [Fot] Atype od shocks In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a shock threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the gas peddle. Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have to be soaked threw out for this to happen Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would correct this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the information So if your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send it again thanks rob _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 5 10:39:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:39:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <19c201cb4d18$eed0b440$0301a8c0@randall> > Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that > would correct > this. Why not just replace the switch with one that doesn't have the handle shorted to the contacts? Randall From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 13:23:49 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:23:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <28EF5C63-E822-40A9-AB16-DCC13A8C65C9@comcast.net> It would be a great driver training aid if you could get the brake pedal to do that all the time. Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 5, 2010, at 10:00 AM, "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> wrote: > In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a > shock > threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the > gas peddle. > Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have > to be > soaked threw out for this to happen > > Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would > correct > this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the > information So if > your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send > it again > thanks rob > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 5 08:57:40 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 07:57:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] 13 inch tires Message-ID: <22032980.1283698660139.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi FOT, I'm in the market for 4 or 8 used 185 60 13. I am trying to run a race with HSMA at Coronado and they don't except my Yoko R6 or Toyos R888. Anyone have a set of used Vintage TDs, Goodyear, Avon. They want to sell. Thanks Joe Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sun Sep 5 17:30:06 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:30:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Driving Suit Message-ID: <4E5A59A8-2931-44ED-A490-F15017075C55@wi.rr.com> FoT, Will be placing a driving suit on ebay so thought I would share it with the group first. It is a Simpson two-layer, size large suit. It was owned by Ralph Kent-Cooke of Cooke Woods Racing and dates from approximately 1981. Please contact me off-line if interested. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Sun Sep 5 20:57:31 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:57:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S Message-ID: <1F9B9ED5-3E32-4BE3-9BB4-C9EF576CC3C3@aol.com> Amici, I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that I will not use. I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I have the parts for both doors. I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. If anyone is interested please contact me off list From spitlist at cox.net Sun Sep 5 23:35:42 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:35:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S In-Reply-To: <1F9B9ED5-3E32-4BE3-9BB4-C9EF576CC3C3@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> It would help to know which model Spitfire they are for. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Christopher Bock Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:58 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S Amici, I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that I will not use. I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I have the parts for both doors. I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. If anyone is interested please contact me off list _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 6 07:27:48 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:27:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S In-Reply-To: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> References: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: I think you might be to right on that one. You mean the rest of you can't read my mind or know what car I have? Parts are from a 75 spitfire Chris On Sep 6, 2010, at 1:35 AM, "Joe Curry" wrote: > It would help to know which model Spitfire they are for. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Christopher Bock > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:58 PM > To: FoTTriumph > Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S > > Amici, > I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that > I > will not use. > > I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I > have > the parts for both doors. > > I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. > > If anyone is interested please contact me off list > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From walt at hot-tr6.com Mon Sep 6 11:09:29 2010 From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:09:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Hi there all FOT guys. is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Thanks Walt Hollowell Abq., NM _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter . SPAMfighter has removed 111080 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try free scan! From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 6 11:40:13 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:40:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question In-Reply-To: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> References: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4C85277D.4000107@bradakis.com> > is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? > No. 4.5 x 25.4 = 114.3 mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 11:44:45 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:44:45 -0700 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question In-Reply-To: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> References: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1c2401cb4deb$320e6a90$0301a8c0@randall> > is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Assuming you are talking about wheel studs, the answer is NO. The bolt circle is 4.5" or 114.3mm. Randall From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 6 12:07:40 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:07:40 GMT Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <20100906.140740.27266.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> It is 4 X 114mm or more precisely 114.3mm. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Walter Hollowell" To: Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:09:29 -0600 Hi there all FOT guys. is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Thanks Walt Hollowell Abq., NM _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter . SPAMfighter has removed 111080 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try free scan! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c852e066d0f2a359f3st02duc From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Sep 6 12:55:30 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:55:30 EDT Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <1de8f1.204b66ec.39b69322@aol.com> I believe the 4x100mm is a Fiat pattern and seems to be infinitely more common than the 4x98 the small Triumphs use. Can't imagine what the bigger TR's use. From awashatko at wi.rr.com Mon Sep 6 13:49:56 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:49:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Rotor Message-ID: <6776E111-B641-4FB6-85AC-39BB380D56BA@wi.rr.com> FoT, I have one TR6 Brembo brake rotor that has only one race on it. If anyone is interested, please let me know. Thanks, Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Mon Sep 6 14:44:13 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 06:44:13 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Triumphs racing in australia Message-ID: for anyone interested, some pics & video of 2 recent race events can be seen at http://www.roadandtrack.net.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=43&Itemid=41 about 150 of us are gathering all next week for the annual TSOA national meeting, which includes 2 competition events. I'll upload some pics from that soon after Terry O'Beirne From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 17:44:12 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:44:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Andre, Please send photos to Sean, too. seanax at iowalaser Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. Joe -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm Subject: [Fot] Accusump Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. ndre, great photos, thanks. ow to order all the bits I need. hanks again, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From timmurph at fastbytes.com Mon Sep 6 17:45:34 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:45:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake Message-ID: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend I got to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or the TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is one of the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track configuration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared to the current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the DP lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit faster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find that information now. Just curious. Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Mon Sep 6 17:52:22 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:52:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 Message-ID: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> Now that I've finally got my fuel injection problems solved, I've been driving the TR5. I've noticed that the OD does not disengage right away at times. I changed the transmission oil to 30W ND from the 80-90 gear lube that I think was in there, at least it smelled and looked like 80/90. Still have the problem. At times it will disengage right away and at other times it might be as much as 10 to 15 seconds before it disengages. I'm familiar with the problem of not engaging, usually the solenoid valve and if not that low pressure. But I've never had the slow disengagement problem nor have I seen anything on it. I suspect that the ball valve is not seating all the time and I have some residual pressure causing the problem. That or the spring on top of the ball valve is either broken or weak. Any insights and suggestions would be appreciated. I haven't taken the tunnel cover off yet but from underneath it appears that the operating lever is completely free when the solenoid is released. Thanks, Tim From andre at gt6.ca Mon Sep 6 18:20:14 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:20:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Sure Joe. As requested. http://www.124racer.com/setup_oil_system.html While not TR related. The ideas are universal. I've not installed the hardware yet, but I'm looking forward to doing it this winter. Have to mount the alternator on the other side of the engine. I will be locating the sump behind the removable passenger seat. Going with an electronic valve because I have it, but from what I've read the manual valve might be better. I'm running a 2qt model, but a 3 again might be better. Good luck. Hope this helps. A. On 6 September 2010 19:44, wrote: > Andre, > > Please send photos to Sean, too. > > seanax at iowalaser > > Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. > > Joe > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm > Subject: [Fot] Accusump > > > Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. > ndre, great photos, thanks. > ow to order all the bits I need. > hanks again, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca > > > -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 18:20:26 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:20:26 -0400 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake In-Reply-To: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> References: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> Message-ID: <8CD1C399A915B3F-121C-290E9@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Tim, I have it somewhere and remember it as being 2:59.8 or so. It is a ten year anniversary book from Road America so the content is credible. I think it was set by Jim Spencer, who was a Wisconsin TRIUMPH dealer who also drove for the factory team at the 12 HOURS OF SEBRING. (NOTE: SPENCER brought back the winning SEBRING TR4. I procured it for Keith Files and Keith plans to take it back to it's original Sebring configuration) Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Tim Murphy To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 6:45 pm Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend I ot to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or he TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is one f the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track onfiguration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared to he current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the P lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit aster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find that nformation now. Just curious. Tim ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 18:24:53 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:24:53 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1C3A39D1F8DF-121C-29178@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> egads! great detail! good material for Kas' next book. -----Original Message----- From: Andre Rousseau To: n197tr4 at cs.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net; seanax at iowalaser.com Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Sure Joe. As requested. http://www.124racer.com/setup_oil_system.html While not TR related. The ideas are universal. I've not installed the hardware yet, but I'm looking forward to doing t this winter. Have to mount the alternator on the other side of the engine. I will be locating the sump behind the removable passenger seat. Going with an electronic valve because I have it, but from what I've ead the manual valve might be better. I'm running a 2qt model, but a 3 again might be better. Good luck. Hope this helps. A. n 6 September 2010 19:44, wrote: Andre, Please send photos to Sean, too. seanax at iowalaser Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. Joe -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm Subject: [Fot] Accusump Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. ndre, great photos, thanks. ow to order all the bits I need. hanks again, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca -- ndre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca ttp://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ 68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ 515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ ttawa, ON, Canada From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 18:26:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 17:26:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 In-Reply-To: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> References: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> Message-ID: <006801cb4e23$5669b060$0301a8c0@randall> > I've noticed that the OD does not disengage > right away at One common cause is a bit of swarf stuck in the tiny hole near the bottom of the valve operating shaft. Lots of folks enlarge the hole anyway, for faster downshifts and less likelihood of getting clogged. The good news is that you don't have to disassemble the unit, just remove the transmission tunnel and plug. While you're in there, wouldn't hurt to replace the valve ball, and tap it into it's seat. Without meaning to reopen the fluif wars, I really love the Redline MT-90 in my A-type. Both synchro and OD operation are noticeably crisper than with motor oil, IMO. Randall From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 20:03:58 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 22:03:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Thanks for Participating In-Reply-To: <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> References: <54A292AB168B421788336F99D49C43DC@main> <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> Message-ID: <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Below is from Barry Munson...one of our Canadian FOT. This was his response to Bill Rinke, race organizer, who sent out a 'thank you' to all participants. Success cant be measured in the number of entrants. The FOT has an excellent reputation. It was further advanced by the TOPEKA EXPERIENCE. AND, sitting on the grid for the Kastner Cup was an emotional experience. It was an orchestrated emotional experience. NATIONAL ANTHEM with two vintage aircraft side by side trailing smoke and pealing off at precisely the right moment along with drum rolls from the Topeka HS Band. We might have been on the grid at the Indianapolis 500. Thanks for being there with us, Barry. We will be looking for you and your TR3 when it is ready. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Barry Munson To: 'Bill Rinke' Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 8:35 pm Subject: RE: Thanks for Participating Bill b Ibve delayed sending you this because I know that youbve been bombarded with e-mail messages. Man that was one unbelievable event b absolutely superb facility, well organized and run event, great just great people. I would do it again in a heartbeat. My goal in coming was to experience vintage racing, learn a new track, to meet people who are usually on the other end of an e-mail string and, of course, really appreciate the essence of what FOT is b its members. All expectations were met in spades. It was also special to be able to spend some time with you and Dottie, that meant a lot. The attachment is entitled bhome away from homeb because that is how I felt and is also a reminder that a very appreciative Canadian with a Volvo was there. Thanks again. Barry. From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 6 20:58:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:58:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Thanks for Participating In-Reply-To: <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> References: <54A292AB168B421788336F99D49C43DC@main> <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C85AA58.5080408@bradakis.com> > AND, sitting on the grid for the Kastner Cup was an emotional experience. > Someday soon perhaps I'll get to experience the feeling first hand. One memory I will take to the grave, which luckily did NOT happen two weeks ago, was attending the Mid Ohio event in 2002, the 50th anniversary of the "Sporting Triumph" Along with many other fans and friends I was in the stands at the last turn before the finish line. The air was full of chatter and anticipation as we all waited for the field to come around on the pace lap. As they came into view, it got REAL quiet all of a sudden. Well, not on track, but as the cars in the Kastner Cup race came around that last turn to take the green dead silence in the bleachers, all eyes on the cars. And the dry eyes in the crowd could have been counted on the thumbs of one hand. I've certainly got emotionally involved in driving a race, that was perhaps the one time I got even more emotional about just watching. I wanted to be in Topeka. mjb. From triosan at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 04:30:58 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:30:58 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. Annotated photos are available at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > Andre, > > Please send photos to Sean, too. > > seanax at iowalaser > > Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. > > Joe > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm > Subject: [Fot] Accusump > > > Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. > ndre, great photos, thanks. > ow to order all the bits I need. > hanks again, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From riverside at southslope.net Tue Sep 7 09:31:44 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:31:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake References: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> Message-ID: <001901cb4ea1$c77e1060$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> per the " first 10 yearsof Road America " book: Jim Spencer, 6/21/64 2:59.2 - Pretty close Joe!! art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 6:45 PM Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake > With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend > I > got to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or > the TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is > one > of the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track > configuration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared > to > the current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the > DP lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit > faster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find > that > information now. Just curious. > > > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Sep 7 09:39:59 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:39:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Heartland Park More Photos Message-ID: <4C865CCF.8030502@pobox.com> Better slow than never. I took a bunch of photos, with the new camera that I'm still learning to use. These were shot with a telephoto and a wide field of view to capture the action. I then cropped every photo. That's my excuse for why it took so long. Unfortunately, some are a bit fuzzy. Sorry, if there weren't very many of your car. I tend to favor my mates. I'll try to do better next year. -Larry http://www.flickr.com/photos/53707928 at N02/sets/ From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 09:52:37 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:52:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil the system can rob. I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as > others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: > Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to > thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to > Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 > lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. > > Annotated photos are available at: > http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# > > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > >> Andre, >> >> Please send photos to Sean, too. >> >> seanax at iowalaser >> >> Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. >> >> Joe >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: WILLIAM TOBIN >> To: fot at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm >> Subject: [Fot] Accusump >> >> >> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. >> ndre, great photos, thanks. >> ow to order all the bits I need. >> hanks again, Bill >> ______________________________________________ >> ot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums >> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Sep 7 10:29:34 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:29:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... FWIW Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 11:52 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil the system can rob. I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as > others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: > Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to > thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to > Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 > lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. > > Annotated photos are available at: > http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# > > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > >> Andre, >> >> Please send photos to Sean, too. >> >> seanax at iowalaser >> >> Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. >> >> Joe >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: WILLIAM TOBIN >> To: fot at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm >> Subject: [Fot] Accusump >> >> >> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. >> ndre, great photos, thanks. >> ow to order all the bits I need. >> hanks again, Bill >> ______________________________________________ >> ot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums >> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 10:44:31 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:44:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Peyote In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <15F3A927-E7B6-47AB-B5DD-4EC17FE127EA@bnj.com> Incidentally, Peyote was amazing this weekend at the Columbia River Challenge. What a car. The race was rather sparsely attended, 130 cars I think, which makes NO sense, it's a great event with so much track time people actually bail on the last race. SOVREN has settled into what seems like a nice easy relationship with the All British Field Meet, enhancing both events. I'm tempting the gods by bragging about how flawlessly Peyote runs now that Tony Garmey and his Horizon Racing guys take care of it, but it simply does. I haven't had so much as a hiccup all year. Plus it's as pretty as it's ever going to get. Somehow, with no change to the engine, tires, suspension and a little more weight it's faster. I was turning high to mid 1.29's consistently. That's about two seconds a lap faster than my previous record. Two seconds!! I have no idea how this happened. Like most things with Peyote it's a little mysterious. But there's really no doubt in my mind that having it maintained by a guy with the high standards Tony has is the real key. When I get in the car I know it's ready (though I still have to check some things, just to satisfy my mental tics). Since none of the really fast cars showed up in group one, and Cameron Healy's Pooper is still laid up after a wreck, I switched to the big bore group. Lots of guys to play with there--mustangs, XKEs and corvettes, a Lola T70, bunch of 911's and BMWs, and in the last two races, Cameron Healy's 908 and a McLaren. I started in the back since I didn't have a time with the group--qualified in smallbore--and passed my way up to tenth. In the next race I had a long, very fun battle with a Javelin and two 911s that held me up a while, but I finally got loose and chased down the Jag. Almost had him in the last lap, but we came up to lap Charlie who was struggling with problems in his TR6 and I chose the wrong side to try to pass on and lost a step. Still almost got him, but he would have blown by me in the back straight anyway. In the fourth race I gridded fifth and got by the Jag in the run to the chicane and pulled out a nice lead. Got chased down by Cameron in his 908 who was starting in the back somewhere and the T70 who was also back there, so I finished fifth. The last race was uneventful, gridded fourth, got to watch Cameron's beautiful car for a little while, and then just drove clean laps, staying just ahead of a 911 that was going nutz trying to catch me. I had an extra second or so in the bag but he didn't know that. Not nice to tease the Porsches... but it's fun. On Sep 7, 2010, at 8:52 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't > much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause > problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use > a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless > you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from > the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil > pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times > equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that > pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. > > The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil > the system can rob. > > I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a > line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the > accusump. > On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 10:58:50 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:58:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <22C31961-BE55-442D-8162-C95AA442DDA4@earthlink.net> I installed a 2 QT Accusump in the trunk of my TR3. A better location would be the rear "Seat" but I didn't feel like relocating my firebottle and I have a passenger seat. I used -10AN hose and run the T-fitting and check valve. This is temp because I intend to plumb it straight into the oil gallery. (My other motor is ready to go with this fitting installed.) I use the EPC valve which works fine. This whole thing is just an insurance policy, plus it pressurizes the system while starting the car. I recommend you call the people at Canton racing products and ask them any questions if you have any. I did this and found them to be very helpful and friendly. ~Steve From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Wed Sep 8 05:35:16 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 07:35:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and WC Dentinger Jr Message-ID: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> Your payments have been received Thank Chris From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 22:05:46 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:05:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could References: Message-ID: <1F43F79C-877E-48E3-A16D-C81E3F57DD6B@earthlink.net> Sorry. That should read .7 not 1.7 > , back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 > seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 7 12:08:01 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:08:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up > through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 7 18:07:19 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:07:19 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 In-Reply-To: <000001cb4ede$8c51abe0$a4f503a0$@com> References: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> <006801cb4e23$5669b060$0301a8c0@randall> <000001cb4ede$8c51abe0$a4f503a0$@com> Message-ID: <1f5301cb4ee9$ce8a0790$6b9e16b0$@rr.com> > Question - in drilling out the port are you concerned about the chips > falling into the overdrive? I'm sorry I was not clearer, Tim. The port I was talking about is located in the valve stem itself, so you simply pull the stem out (using a magnet or bent paper clip) to make the mod. Clean it afterwards, so no contamination to the OD. It's also kind of tricky to drill, so it's probably better to use a small grinder (Dremel). There is a photo of a modified stem at http://tinyurl.com/286t7wq (Not my photo, don't recall where I got it. If anyone recognizes it as theirs, please let me know and I'll be happy to give due credit.) When the OD disengages, the valve stem drops, which opens the top of the stem to the oil. The oil from the pistons then has to run out through that port (and the clearance around the stem) for the OD to disengage. Triumph also used to recommend motor oil for the A-type ODs, there was even a 1954 service bulletin saying to use only motor oil if OD was installed. (Although oddly enough, they specified detergent oils, like Shell X100.) But somewhere around 1960, they changed to requiring GL4 in both OD and non-OD gearboxes. Supposedly that was because they were seeing too many failures of the thrust washers in the gearbox (which are a weak spot). But if it works for you, then certainly you should use it. -- Randall From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 10:03:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 09:03:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Concur regarding the positive displacement pump acting as a fairly effective check valve. I do not have a check valve in my system and precharging to 35-40 psi off of the 1 1/2 qt accumulator is no problem. The only thing the check valve would improve on in my opinion is if you have a leak from a hose, cooler, oil filter, etc or if the pupm drive breaks. A 25psi idiot light is the only thing that may help then. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 AM Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the > thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 7 18:28:33 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 00:28:33 GMT Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock Vintage Festival Message-ID: <20100907.202833.95.1@webmail03.dca.untd.com> Congratulations to Dave Spiwak for his victory at the Lime Rock fall festival. I heard that he took 1st in his first race and 3rd in his second race. Nice driving. My son was working in timing and scoring and did not give me any details. Perhaps others can better fill in the blanks. Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From igofaster at att.net Tue Sep 7 18:51:21 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:51:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> Message-ID: <481634.24386.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I'm down for two stickin' badgers.... Bobby Whitehead ________________________________ From markvaden at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 18:36:38 2010 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:36:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Message-ID: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 12:32:57 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:32:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC7F7C7B2C7-830-5B36@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD1CC7F7C7B2C7-830-5B36@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <111FD8A9-792D-416B-B843-65630C76EDFE@bnj.com> Of course. The question is "does that matter". Given all the resistance to backflow of the pump and all the other stuff, and the fact that we're directly lubing the bearings that we care about, my answer is "not much". The way you use the accusump is you open it up, see the oil light go out, and start the engine. You have pressure on the bearings and you backfill all the passages from the gallery to the pump. When you punch the start button the pump starts turning and backflow stops. Your bearing have oil under pressure from the time the valve opens. Check valve or no check valve. The other mode is that something makes your pump stop working--you break an oil pump drive or suck air. In that case the accusump is generally at full pressure and delivers oil for a pretty long time. You have more than enough time to shut the motor down or for the oil to drop back down in the pan and the pump to start working again. Accusump includes a check valve (imho) because most people plumb to the oil cooler line, and you need all the flow you can get to make that useful. Going straight to the gallery you just don't need to optimize the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 10:19 AM, Fubog1 wrote: > yes you are going to see the pressure that is in the accusump, but part of the volume is going to go back through the pump, until the pump starts working... > Glen > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net > To: Fubog1 > Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com; fot at autox.team.net; billb at bnj.com; triosan at gmail.com > Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 1:14 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > I don't see that, when I release oil to the motor ( pre- start up ) I see full pressure > on the gauge according to what it was when I shut it off the last time. I think the pump acts > as it's own check valve in a way. > > Jim G. From andre at gt6.ca Wed Sep 8 11:04:49 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:04:49 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> References: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: WRT to the check valve I thought the point of it was when you open the accusump for pre-oiling it forces the oil towards the engine and not back into the oil cooler & filter. Which could push junk in the filter backwards? A. On 8 September 2010 12:03, Norlin Engineering wrote: > Concur regarding the positive displacement pump acting as a fairly effective > check valve. I do not have a check valve in my system and precharging to > 35-40 psi off of the 1 1/2 qt accumulator is no problem. The only thing the > check valve would improve on in my opinion is if you have a leak from a > hose, cooler, oil filter, etc or if the pupm drive breaks. A 25psi idiot > light is the only thing that may help then. > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 AM > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > >> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back >> up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the >> thing... > > But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards > through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly > small? > > Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into > the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the > galleries? > > This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still > don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up > ... > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca > > > -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From igofaster at att.net Tue Sep 7 19:07:12 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 18:07:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 Message-ID: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 11:32:33 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 13:32:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), I would prefer that the charge go where it is supposed to go ie the bearings., and let the oil pump do what it does. If a system isn't prone to sucking air, then the accusump becomes less critical, in that respect. Also when cold starting, before the engine is turning, there is a lot of restriction on the bearing side because the oil ports are not likely lined up, ie not much bleed. Just as a matter of interest I have 2 oil pressure gauges in my spit, one for running and the other for accusump. When I used to run F prod with slicks, guaranteed every lap coming out of #2 at palm beach, the main pressure would drop a tad & then the accusump would kick in, just for a moment until the oil pump got things sorted out... JMHO Glen -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 2:08 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up > through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 11:42:45 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 13:42:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] test no content Message-ID: <8CD1D9461912B37-1B94-16B2@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> just checking, email is doing some weird stuff I know... aol sux... sorry From lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 11:52:13 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:52:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: References: , <1F43F79C-877E-48E3-A16D-C81E3F57DD6B@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3CE76256-7763-4F35-A1D5-E40CFAEFD256@earthlink.net> Hello All, This is a reference to a post I sent that was over size limit and is awaiting Mark's magic wand. Henry - my 1:35.134 last October dethroned Jerry Rahal's Lotus best of 1:35.853 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 8, 2010, at 11:30 AM, wrote: > What is the Vintage Production Lap Record these > days?........................Cheers Henry > > > From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net > > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:05:46 -0600 > > To: fot at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could > > > > Sorry. That should read .7 not 1.7 > > > > > , back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 > > > seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., > > > > > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > > TR4 #314 > > > Albuquerque NM From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 11:54:15 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:54:15 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <062E0C64-E2C2-4E63-BB2E-199CC368B7F6@comcast.net> They want 38-40 hot pressure. Yor cold temp depends on the track and altitude. In Colorado I start out at 33 front and 31 rear to arrive at 39 hot. At Topeka I had to go 36f & 35r cold to get to 39-40 hot. At Topeka on Friday I used my colorado cold pressures and I was over 8 seconds off the pace with hot pressures of 36f & 34r. Over Saturday and Sunday I got em up to40 Front & rear and times fell to low 2:01s & 2:02's. Unfortunately I was supposed to have afresh set waiting for me in topeka but we know the story with that. I took tire temps too which was interesting in itself but I have IRS so temps do more for me than for a live axle car. Jim g #102 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 7, 2010, at 6:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same > thing) tires, > and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? > > Thanks, > Mark > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From ikorey at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 11:58:29 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 12:58:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 8:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? > Joe? Ted? > Bobby Whitehead > I got some from Moss Motors for the TR6. Don't know if others carry them or not. HTH, Irv Korey From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Sep 8 12:00:32 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 14:00:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT BADGES In-Reply-To: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> References: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1D96DD98EC96-240-963@Webmail-d122.sysops.aol.com> thanks for doing this....it is great statement. i just paypaled for 4 of them. is there a picture or description of an example? regards, joe -----Original Message----- From: Christopher Bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 6:35 am Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and WC Dentinger Jr Your payments have been received hank Chris ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From mpendy at dishmail.net Wed Sep 8 12:01:54 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:01:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> <19c201cb4d18$eed0b440$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <361E768E14E64BB3A35351EF9C91235D@Pendys> I don't think that anyone has brought this up, but i would hope that you are switching the ground and NOT the power wire, this would take care of the problem, for instance, ever wondered or noticed why most typical horn circuits switch the ground???....Just my 2 cents worth. MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'FoT Triumph'" Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Atype od shocks >> Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that >> would correct >> this. > > Why not just replace the switch with one that doesn't have the handle > shorted to the contacts? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net From s.janzen at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 12:27:10 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:27:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> PRI has some great ones that I have been using for several years. You can get several assembly/disassembly cycles out of them. They are some sort of thick, grey, very dense material. He does not always have them in stock, however. On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 12:28:37 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:28:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <84B724F9-8867-4C92-AB30-B9DE5CFBDB45@earthlink.net> Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From billbab at me.com Tue Sep 7 12:34:21 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 11:34:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Accusump References: <19670BED-3602-4240-8117-9B918A0FA4F1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <9E99B9DD-128B-4A43-A2D3-A8884CDC1978@me.com> Oops, too long Begin forwarded message: > From: Bill Babcock > Date: September 7, 2010 9:51:15 AM PDT > To: Fubog1 > Cc: triosan at gmail.com, seanax at iowalaser.com, fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Not significantly if you go in through the gallery. If you're in the cooler line, sure, but if not, not so much. The bleed down rate for the Accusump is pretty slow, restricted as much by the small gallery hole as anything else, but it maintains more than 20 pounds of engine oil pressure measured at the gallery for at least 30 seconds. That's all I want. That and the ability to pre-oil the motor before each start. > > On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Fubog1 wrote: > >> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... >> FWIW >> Glen From harmug at us.ibm.com Wed Sep 8 14:40:42 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 16:40:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, -Limerock Results In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Vintage Festival results. I was having fun until I blew a head gasket. http://www.limerock.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=107&Itemid=107 thanks mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 15:21:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:21:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If > it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't force oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). It acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of their race motor? -- Randall From fasttrs at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 15:37:30 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:37:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> Message-ID: <760780.68035.qm@web46103.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bobby, What Scott said. I coat mine with Hylomar so they will release for reuse. Mike To: Bobby Whitehead Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 1:27:10 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 PRI has some great ones that I have been using for several years. You can get several assembly/disassembly cycles out of them. They are some sort of thick, grey, very dense material. He does not always have them in stock, however. On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Sep 8 15:48:06 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 17:48:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 8 Sep 2010, Randall wrote: [stuff deleted] > I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil > pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally > last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a > requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of > their race motor? If you have $$,$$$ in your race motor, do you really want to know if the pre-oil makes a difference? Most folks I know that race out of pocket think $300-$500 for an accusump is a heck of a lot better than $10k for a new block, cam, crank, etc. etc. Plus it looks kool. :-) > -- Randall regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 15:50:07 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:50:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <2122430D-7D08-4BFA-B29F-C3449F2DE368@earthlink.net> > Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally > last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem > like a > requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the > life of > their race motor? > > -- Randall I tend to agree and that's why having it under the hood in the [former] battery box works for me. I turn it on, leave it on, and it's one less thing to forget. Also minimizes the length of expensive line. I've got a hunch that most cockpit or trunk mounts will cost more in braided S/S line than the Accu-Sump itself. I do leave it loaded with the valve closed when it's going to be parked for awhile... and Maybe I'll remember to open it before the next cold start. > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 15:52:09 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:52:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <84B724F9-8867-4C92-AB30-B9DE5CFBDB45@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hoosier has a fact sheet on these tires on their website that tells how to break them in and how to set baseline pressures. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Belfer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 11:29 AM To: Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 16:04:25 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:04:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DB8EF82054A-2058-416E@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> I suspect that the pump is a considerable bleed when it is inop ie initial charging of the system, before it is spinning. I don't see it as a check valve at that point, sorry to disagree. Generally speaking (typing), one of the biggest, if not the biggest cause of wear in an engine in service is "dry" starts. The 1500 spit/midget engine with certain oil filter/housing configurations is the perfect example. I agree that an engine in good shape, and not driven hard (ie street engine), would benefit little, if at all, from an accusump. Race engines need all the help they can get. My intent in posting about this was not to start a debate. I simply saw information posted that contradicts normal practice, & my personal experience using accusumps for a long time, and I wanted to offer some additional thoughts on the matter... Glen -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 5:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If > it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't force oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). It acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of their race motor? -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From bswope959 at msn.com Wed Sep 8 16:17:47 2010 From: bswope959 at msn.com (Bill Swope) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 16:17:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Car badge Message-ID: How do I order one ? From chasgee at aol.com Wed Sep 8 16:42:38 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:42:38 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DBE45F1542A-6C0-4E16@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com> It absolutely extends the life of my race motors. There are corners at certain tracks that have a tendency to expose the pump pick up regardless of how good the pan baffling. This is where the accusump shines. Without it, I'd go through a lot more motors, and I go through too many already. The pre-lubing is nice, especially after the car has sat a while between races. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 2:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't orce oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). t acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil ressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally ast many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a equirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of heir race motor? -- Randall ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 17:38:09 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 23:38:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Good point on the break in. I was getting the R6's from Tire Rack already heat cycled. As far as I know Tire Rack doesn't offer the SM6 and Hoosier does not heat cycle tires. It has to be done properly or the life of the tire will be cut significantly. The abreviated version is...two medium laps, two hot laps and then get them off the car or off the ground to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norlin Engineering" To: "Steven Belfer" , "Mark Vaden" Cc: "FOT Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2010 3:52:09 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Hoosier has a fact sheet on these tires on their website that tells how to break them in and how to set baseline pressures. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Belfer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 11:29 AM To: Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve B :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) B tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 18:12:45 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:12:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G" FWIW - After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: Heat cycle a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 with -1/2deg camber up front. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:30:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:30:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm running 2 1/2 degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle cars do need to run the higher pressures. Jim Norlin -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G" FWIW - After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: Heat cycle a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 with -1/2deg camber up front. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:30:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:30:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I just checked the Hoosier web site and the link I refered to earlier is broken. However, I found a copy at the following location: http://www.racetire.com/products/tctips.htm#Tire Pressure Recommendations For Competition If you read down far enough you will see this: "Independent rear suspension With IRS and proper geometry up front, tire pressures can be reduced from the recommendations listed above. When there is adequate camber gain and good roll control, the Hoosier radial tire will perform very well at the reduced air pressure. This results in a bigger "sweet spot" and easier control at the limit. When tuning at reduced pressures use the following formula to determine the minimum safe pressure: Divide the total vehicle weight, including fuel and driver, by 100 to arrive at the minimum safe pressure. Example: Your car weighs 2750 lbs. as raced. The minimum safe (cold) pressure is 27.5 psi." This is a far cry from 40 psi in a 2000 lb car. I started out at 26 with my 1700 lb Spitfire cause that's what I ran with my old Yokohamas. I've finally settled on 17-18 lbs cold. Far more grip than at 26. Take it for what it's worth, but it works for me. Jim Norlin From atr6racer at hotmail.com Wed Sep 8 19:40:55 2010 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:40:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FW: GT6 racer on ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This has been on ebay. I don't know the car, but it sounds well built. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Triumph-GT6-Vintage-Race-Car-_W0QQcmdZVie wItemQQhashZitem3f02f7047eQQitemZ270632682622QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ 5fLegalQ5f From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:55:22 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:55:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net From atr6racer at hotmail.com Wed Sep 8 20:29:48 2010 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 22:29:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race car for sale Message-ID: Must me my night for finding Triumph race cars for sale. Got this link from a good friend of mine. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/triumph/1272287942/1272287942pp.htm This one is a TR6 that has never been raced. Just thought I'd pass it along to the group. Sam Halkias From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 20:48:40 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:48:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> Message-ID: Not with the Hoosiers. I've just been monitoring the tire wear, which is very even. I'm getting around 8 weekends out of a set of tires with the grip level being good the whole time. I'm seeing some extra wear on the outside of the fronts and have been considering increasing the camber to 3 or better as you have done. -----Original Message----- From: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 6:55 PM To: Norlin Engineering Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; Mark Vaden; FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 21:14:14 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:14:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Message-ID: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? Thanks, Ernie From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 8 21:30:52 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:30:52 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] Team.Net hiccups Message-ID: <20100909033052.17FFE2E0A6@bradakis.com> Yes, the lists have been acting funny today. There was a loss of connectivity to the world for about 24 hours, so email was delayed and web pages were unavailable. I do apologize for the inconvenience. mjb. From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Sep 8 21:45:04 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 23:45:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> who all is going and where are you staying? i may leave rv home and find motel. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Husmann To: FOT Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? hanks, rnie ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 21:10:35 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 21:10:35 -0600 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could Message-ID: The Plum Pi finally gave the death rattle. A lap from the end of Connie's race last Saturday she "sensed something" and brought it in although the temp and pressure were OK. The rod knock didn't start until idling thru the pits. Had I been driving I'd probably have a puzzle-piece bottom end. It's actually been a open secret that I've been insisting on Connie doing more driving as a means of extracting every bit of borrowed time that the poor thing has been on since Portland. Funny thing is that my procrastination on last winter's scheduled rebuild actually allowed Chris Marx to develop the sealing fix I've been waiting for. So I just went thru the log books. This is the re-incarnation of the engine I built in '05 - the Mahle pistons have never been out of their bores. The current build got some track time and one race before Watkins Glen. Then Brainard, back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., Topeka and back home. And all the races in between. Total of 13 race weekends and about 5 light testing days. In hindsight it wouldn't have made it thru Topeka if Connie hadn't done her share of the driving. And BTW - Heartland was her first race off of our home track at Sandia. She had a blast did a great job in my book, including being pretty aware of passing traffic and point byes. She's a natural for seeing the line but just has a more prudent approach to our TRactors than I do. My question from awhile back was a honest inquiry. I was wondering what sort of duty others are getting from stock but messaged internals. The first incarnation would actually see as high as 7200 rpm and lived. I had that crank mag'd and it wasn't until it was re- checked after cryo treatment that the crack was detected. I'm convinced that the treatment brought the crack to the visible surface and saved me from "the big one". On the tear-down of that 7000+ rpm version I found the timing chain to be stretched enough to retard the cam close to 8 degrees. Next [this] time around I used a virgin, un- ground crank, crack checked it, did the Kas treatment of stress relieving, lightening and polishing, cryo'd it, crack checked it again and polished journals to -.0001. I tried a clue from the previous lesson and retarded the cam [Isky 666. Looking forward to a LY] 4 degrees and used a better chain [BPNW]. This engine saw 6800+ on the over-run but was all-in for any power by 6500. Anyone listening from the fence at Topeka knows what I mean about "over-run" in my downshifts... Might even have touched 7k in the last turn of Topeka. I really like driving with the rear end and my car really won't do much of that on-"power", mostly on the other side of the curve. I never intended to get max output from my set-up. I'd just get addicted to it at the expense of longevity. Thus the original short runner manifold [great conversation starter - "you know they made a ...."], original untouched carbs [Henry Fry and I took the original, round, solid brass float needles out in Portland - I still owe you a pair of needles Tony G] no trumpets, no heat shield, no nothin'. Points ignition done Kas' way to a gnats ass. Head looks to be nicely done [by some unknown other ] and I gave the chambers my treatment to get the compression down to the 10.6:1 I thought I could get away with. Ignored the common [and good] wisdom and left the head gasket [Payden composite] hanging over into the chamber and no relief notches in the sleeves. CC'd +/- .5 cc. I've never subjected it to a dyno but always thought I MIGHT be in the 130+hp range. To my surprise, a friend just built 148hp with this basic spec. So my big question is: How nuts am I in thinking I might get a bit more for Laguna Seca? I've got a really nice 12:1 head on the shelf that I've never had the guts to install. I'm sold on the Mahle's and will do them again. Forged anything is not in the plan. On a side note and to my surprise, a few have asked for the whole Topeka saga. To my surprise because I'm never sure if anyone reads or wants to hear my drivel. For those that don't, start lookin' for the delete button. The "inland freighter" is a 53' Haulmark enclosed car hauler. Picked it up in Tulsa this spring and brought it home to Albuquerque. Got a '91 Dodge 1 ton, turbo diesel, dually and outfitted it as a cab&chassis tow rig. A couple brief shake-down runs and Topeka was it's maiden voyage. Talk about "beaten by equipment"!! The first 50 miles from Albuquerque to Santa Fe goes from 5500 to 7200 feet. Quickly obvious the cooling system is not happy with my 14,000 CGVW. At Santa Fe I got on the 50 mph Old Percos Trail [route 66 prior to 1937] to try cooling things off for the pull up Glorietta pass. Haven't driven that stretch for a few years but I knew where I was the moment I saw it - the last place to get on I-25 before the road dead-ends in a couple hundred yards. That's when I found out the trailer brakes were not set quite where they needed to be. There was one small sign about 150' from the downhill turn. Overshot it by 25'. That's when I found out that the engine/transmission mounts were not up to the task of backing uphill. Dead-end road, no turn around [how New Mexico] and no reverse. That was the first time I questioned if this was going to work. Barley and I scouted around for about 20 minutes on foot looking for some way to reverse course. One driveway looked promising so we gave it a try. Tight but just up-hill enough it didn't take much clutch to go backwards. By the third or fourth jack-knife maneuver I'm thinking I'm going to make it. Then comes the first wife on her way down the drive in her way to work. Explain myself, she backs up 100' feet and we're doing good. Than comes the second wife driving down. Followed by hubby on foot. With hubby's guidance I clear the mailbox by inches and the trees on the other side of the road by a few feet. Probably took a hour and a half and on the road again. Cooling system is a issue but find how directly I can control the temp with my right foot. As the terrain flattens out, the trip seems to smooth out. Stop for fuel somewhere in Oklahoma and do a light check. They're not doing as well as the last time I checked. Typical ground problem. Put a jumper on ground side and go in for [another] Red Bull. Come out ready to go, give everything a final check and the inside of the trailer is filled with that acrid smell that only comes from burning wires. Go to pull the jumper and get a good burn. How it did what it did without burning a fuse I don't even want to know. Turns out the wiring is the damnedest array of mis-wired backfeeding I've ever seen. A couple hours, a complete re-wire and a spare light later, we're on the road again. Keep in mind that WE is me and Barley - we're due to pick Connie up at the Kansas City Airport at what is now TODAY at 9:45 p.m.. 100 miles down the road and we find a road sign that had so many options it looked to be from the Japanese alphabet. Missed the turn. 12 miles in the wrong direction to find a "almost' turnaround. I say "almost" because the landing gear on the trailer bottomed out about half-way around... totally smoked the dually's to get it horsed around with the trailer jacks grinding their way into the pavement. Another 12 miles back and headed east again. It's about 11:30, we're doing about 60 on two lane highway 56. With a KAWAMM- BANG!!! I thought the frame had broken in half. We're headed for the other shoulder/ditch. Correct a bit and we're now tracing the centerline but 53' of trailer wants to pass. Hit the hand control on the trailer brakes and get it straightened out. But now we're about to be parked and disabled in the middle of a two lane highway. Actually had the presence of mind to downshift, give a bit of throttle and get it parked on the grass on my side of the road with maybe 4" of the rear over the line. Took about 1/4 mile to get it stopped and at the end I could see the sparks coming off right next to the fuel tank. Had plenty of time to grab the fire extinguisher from under the seat and think A: There goes Topeka. And B: How am I going to get this thing fixed and out of here? Jumped out and the good news was that we weren't on fire. Next clue is that we didn't have either wheel on the drivers rear of the truck. Flashlight revealed that we had one sheared lug stud and a mangled drum. Took Barley for a little walk and within 100' he found one wheel. Another 25' and we found the other!. Back to the truck for lots of jacking and blocking. Beat the brake drum back on, started the truck and put it in gear with the wheels off. The drum make some bad noises and required a few more whacks but was soon running fairly true. Then to discover that a Dodge with a Dana 70 uses different lugs from front to rear. Only thing to do is to rob 4 [half] off the other rear and see what happens. It was durring this swap process that I saw the 140 Ft Lbs on the face of the nuts - I had them at 75. 53' of trailer on 4 lug nuts is not very confidence inspiring... 100 yards and check them. 1/4 mile and check them again. 1 mile and another check. After they hadn't budged in 5 miles I started to get up to speed - maybe 45mph. By this time of the morning the truck traffic started up. Talk about jumpy! Had a pebble got stuck in a tire I was ready to pitch the whole thing in the ditch. Needless to say, but we weren't there to pick Connie up at the airport. She had to get a room, rent a car, and meet us at the track. By the time I got there about 1pm Friday, it had taken 28 hours to drive 736 miles straight thru and I was hardly in a condition to unload the car much less drive. First race of Saturday was Connie's first time on the track. After lunch was my first outing - though I did take the TR3 out for the lunchtime lapping to figure which way the track went. Funny thing was at the drivers meeting Sunday - Jim Grey was explaining how I was apexing too early to get set up for the bridge. I told him that the bridge looked like there was plenty of room to keep going after the crest. He looked at me with a kind of puzzled look and explained that the turn before going down to the bridge had to be entered from far drivers right. My response was "we go UNDER a bridge?"!!! I just don't see those kind of things. Reminds me of when Chuck met the wall in Portland - after he told me what happened I said "there's a wall out there?" Really glad I don't seem to see those scary things. So that's the "rest of the story" I know this is over max but please send it thru Mark. Would really like to hear about others engine longevity. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM And kudos to Walt Hollowell for having that TR6 flying last weekend. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Sep 9 00:20:31 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:20:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than 60F. 50-60F is the optimum for racing. Cheers Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jim Gray Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 03:55 An: Norlin Engineering Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; FOT Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 9 08:46:39 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:46:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100909144600.34994187644@autox.team.net> I'm going, staying at the Victoria Village Inn in Elkhart Lake. It's kinda pricy this year, though. - Tony At 10:45 PM 9/8/2010, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: >who all is going and where are you staying? > >i may leave rv home and find motel. > > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Ernest Husmann >To: FOT >Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm >Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > >Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? > >hanks, > >rnie >______________________________________________ >ot at autox.team.net >http://www.fot-racing.com >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >orums: http://www.team.net/forums >nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From bentleyblvd at yahoo.com Thu Sep 9 09:04:20 2010 From: bentleyblvd at yahoo.com (John Hornbostel) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:04:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Joe, we'll be there. Staying in Sheb Falls at the Days Inn. Regards, John H. ----- Original Message ---- From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 11:45:04 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America who all is going and where are you staying? i may leave rv home and find motel. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Husmann To: FOT Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? hanks, rnie ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bentleyblvd at yahoo.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 9 09:08:34 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:08:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> Message-ID: Thanks for all that info guys. Ive been using up a set of fronts in about 100 laps on my gt6. Granted, I assume that my street t.d.'s are a little different... but what all this seems to be pointing to is that maybe I should drop the starting pressure from 27 a few pounds as my car is about 200-300 pounds lighter than your TR's. I think they rise about 8-10 pounds when hot but I feel like I should be getting a little more life out of the tires. Am I correct in thinking that a little less pressure will promote longevity? I'm not even going as fast as you guys....YET. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 1:20 AM, MadMarx wrote: > A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature > on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than > 60F. > 50-60F is the optimum for racing. > > Cheers > Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Jim Gray > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 03:55 > An: Norlin Engineering > Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; FOT Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & > 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. > At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread > From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. > Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. > That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was > pretty well used by Friday. > Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? > > Jim g > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" > > wrote: > > > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > > running 2 1/2 > > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > > cars do > > need to run the higher pressures. > > > > Jim Norlin > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On > > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > > Cc: FOT Triumph > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > > realigning going on during the cure period. > > Jim G" > > > > FWIW - > > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > > Heat cycle > > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > TR4 #314 > > Albuquerque NM > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > > norlinengineering at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 9 09:56:05 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:56:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joe and others in for RA. I guess I'm staying closer to home, Gonna take my GT6 to the British Car Fest instead. Sorry to miss the big race weekend. I decided to race to Blackhawk next weekend instead with MCSCC. Joe...Should I bring the Ambro Body and show that too? Good luck guys. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 10:04 AM, John Hornbostel wrote: > Joe, we'll be there. Staying in Sheb Falls at the Days Inn. > > Regards, > John H. > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" > To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 11:45:04 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > who all is going and where are you staying? > > i may leave rv home and find motel. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ernest Husmann > To: FOT > Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm > Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > > Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? > > hanks, > > rnie > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bentleyblvd at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 9 10:17:35 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:17:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Millville historic sept 24-25 Message-ID: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> Any one going to this race? I will be there as crew for a MGA, formula eve, and bugeye. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Thu Sep 9 10:18:14 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:18:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Greg That was a great read. Makes me feel almost normal. I sometimes have days like that where you don't even want to tell others the kind of crap that you just went through because it might come across like whinning or that you are a moron for getting into such a pickle. Thanks for sharing your adventure... Sounds like a friend who lost his ID and through a seies of screwball events found himself at a police staion trying to identify himself. In frustration, after not being able to identify himself to their satisfaction and after the police asking how they could be sure that he was who he said he was, he blurted out "Who the he11 would want to be me!" Paul -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: September 7, 2010 11:11 PM To: fot Triumph Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could The Plum Pi finally gave the death rattle. A lap from the end of Connie's race last Saturday she "sensed something" and brought it in although the temp and pressure were OK. From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 12:10:56 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:10:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <93DB1F32-5192-4331-8C49-12A3E2C19703@bnj.com> That was a fun read, and way too close to home. On the All Aluminum Tour my airstream toy hauler (nero) shredded all six tires, one at a time at first with the grand finale being two on one side--fortunately in limping distance to a tire store. The tires "looked" great, but they couldn't handle the extra load. On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:18 AM, macdonaldp wrote: > Greg > > > That was a great read. Makes me feel almost normal. I sometimes have days > like that where you don't even want to tell others the kind of crap that you > just went through because it might come across like whinning or that you are > a moron for getting into such a pickle. > > Thanks for sharing your adventure... > > Sounds like a friend who lost his ID and through a seies of screwball events > found himself at a police staion trying to identify himself. In frustration, > after not being able to identify himself to their satisfaction and after the > police asking how they could be sure that he was who he said he was, he > blurted out "Who the he11 would want to be me!" > > Paul From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 12:25:02 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 11:25:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> Message-ID: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Oops, too long again. Begin forwarded message: > From: Bill Babcock > The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as well ask "what size pants are you wearing". A hundred pounds of total vehicle weight difference makes a tire pressure difference that's worth significant time on a race track and significant accelerated wear on tires. If you don't have a real tire pyrometer and test your temps then you are wasting money on good tires. > > Peyote hasn't worn out a set of tires in recent memory. They just heat cycle to the point that I'm losing time. I see racers with light cars with the center worn out of their tires and the edges still treaded. Overinflation, pure and simple. We don't have 400 horsepower and our cars don't weigh 2400 pounds--our tires shouldn't wear out from racing. If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. > > Chris, the engineer you were talking to is full of beans. If you have a 50 degree F difference between inside and outside it's either because the reading was taken after a long straight or the camber is wrong. Do the measurements on a skid pad and you can get the inside to outside measurement within 10F. Unless you are running full radial slicks I bet that won't be at 4.5 degrees. You MAY, however, be able to go faster on some tracks with excess camber just because it puts less tire on the ground down the straights. Overinflation does the same thing. Not the fast way around corners though. > > On Sep 9, 2010, at 8:08 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > >> Thanks for all that info guys. Ive been using up a set of fronts in about >> 100 laps on my gt6. Granted, I assume that my street t.d.'s are a little >> different... but what all this seems to be pointing to is that maybe I >> should drop the starting pressure from 27 a few pounds as my car is about >> 200-300 pounds lighter than your TR's. I think they rise about 8-10 pounds >> when hot but I feel like I should be getting a little more life out of the >> tires. Am I correct in thinking that a little less pressure will promote >> longevity? I'm not even going as fast as you guys....YET. >> >> Jason Ostrowski >> Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 >> On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 1:20 AM, MadMarx wrote: >> >>> A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature >>> on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than >>> 60F. >>> 50-60F is the optimum for racing. >>> >>> Cheers >>> Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 12:31:25 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:31:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Millville historic sept 24-25 In-Reply-To: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> References: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> Message-ID: <0BC9C500-E220-474E-B8B8-11EDB17ACA3D@comcast.net> I will be there with the GT6. Scott Janzen BRG 1968 GT6 On Sep 9, 2010, at 12:17 PM, Christopher Bock wrote: Any one going to this race? I will be there as crew for a MGA, formula eve, and bugeye. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 12:44:41 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:44:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> Message-ID: <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> What the engineer was probably talking about is averaged differential temperatures on a track, probably using active measurement as you describe, which I (and probably most of the FOT) don't have access to. The number simply does you no good at all in static measurements that we are limited to. The outside of a tire on a track is cooled more by the airflow down straights. The amount of differential temperature is highly variable, depending on how you take the corners, how long the straights are, and what you were doing just before you stopped to take the measurements. It's of limited use, really only good for determining tire pressure. To set camber using tire temperatures you either need a short, tight track and a lot of experience or a skid pad. A skid pad can be anywhere there's a big enough patch of smooth pavement. You drive around in circles until you're tired of it, and check your tire temps. The inside and outside temps are much closer because you don't get enough speed to have highly variable cooling. Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. If you get a chance, show the engineer a printout of this email or just tell him what I said. I bet dollars to donuts he'd agree completely. The problem with taking advice from professionals is that we then have to translate what they say to suit both our cars and the limited tools we have. Not easy. On Sep 9, 2010, at 11:24 AM, MadMarx wrote: > Bill, > > The Porsche engineer belongs to the 24h winning team on the Nordschleife and > belongs also to the works testing team. > They do the temperature measurement with a datalogger during the test rides > with infrared sensors and surely also with this needle type probes in the > pits. > I also asked him about my camber. He said, show me photos of your car during > cornering. After he looked closely to the photos he said that my car suffers > from tire roll and I have to compensate it with more camber than usual. > Since I have gained the camber to this big value I gained 6 seconds on the > Assen track. > > The good thing with me is that I listen to people and try things. I most > cases professionals are right with their suggestions. > > Cheers > Chris From markvaden at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 14:30:27 2010 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:30:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: > > The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't > understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as > well ask "what size pants are you wearing". I think the reason I ask is for a starting point. I use a pyrometer to narrow it in, but on these tires the range specified by the manufacturer is significantly different than my previous tires. I figured since a lot of us drive TR4s they should all be reasonably close as a starting point. Likewise if I were in a country that measured their pants in mm or by some size instead of waist and length, I would probably ask a guy who was similar in size to myself what size pants he was wearing! -Mark From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 15:29:08 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 14:29:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <399D9E08-104D-44C4-AB72-1A6BDBE3F417@me.com> At the risk of seeming just argumentative, Hoosier, and most other manufacturers, don't really publish a starting pressure for racing tires, that's usually tire resellers. And the numbers I've seen for Hoosier A6/R6 are pretty much the same numbers I've seen for TDs and Speedster tires: For an 1800-2200 pound car its 26-31 cold. Note that it's a really big cold range. Peyote is about 1580 wet and with Speedsters I've settled in at 23.5# all the way around with a bit of fiddling depending on how hot I think the track is going to be. Depending on the track and the day that translates to 32# hot. If there's a reason to experiment we get a bunch of tire temps, find a HOT pressure that yields a center temp close to the inside and outside edge temps on all four tires, let it cool down overnight and read the cold temperature on each. Most production cars will yield a different value for the front and rear, and to a lesser degree side to side, mostly because of weight distribution. You write those down and that's your cold pressure for each corner. Peyote happens to be 50/50 front to rear and diagonally, with me standing in the seat. How Bill Ames knew back in 1959 I would weigh 245 is beyond me. I haven't driven many Triumph race cars that belong to other people, but I did drive Tony Drews, and I was struck by the fact that it handled almost exactly like Peyote. I also clearly remember the evil handling of my cheater TR3--it's why I started studying handling so intently. I also discovered you could take a car that intrinsically handled extremely well--like my Radical DSR--and with a little work screw it up so it becomes uncompetitive. The difference is attention to setup (suspension, brake bias, spring rates, etc.) and tire issues (pressure, alignment, camber). >>> The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't >> understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as >> well ask "what size pants are you wearing". > > > I think the reason I ask is for a starting point. I use a pyrometer to > narrow it in, but on these tires the range specified by the manufacturer is > significantly different than my previous tires. I figured since a lot of us > drive TR4s they should all be reasonably close as a starting point. > Likewise if I were in a country that measured their pants in mm or by some > size instead of waist and length, I would probably ask a guy who was similar > in size to myself what size pants he was wearing! > > -Mark > _______________________________________________ From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 9 15:52:33 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 15:52:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: >> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because >> your camber is wrong. >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Sep 9 16:06:05 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 00:06:05 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <000001cb506b$34247b80$9c6d7280$@com> Now I'm off to sleep and start early in the morning to Zandvoort. I have to go there with some power loss as I have to run a very silent exhaust so Larry's cam can't work efficiently. But I hope it is not getting too bad with 10 HP less. Cheers Chris From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 19:31:27 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 18:31:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Wrong meaning if the tires were inflated to optimize the contact patch it would be shifted to one side of the tire or the other. But I know you know that. Have you ever considered moving the upper arm inner pivot inward a bit? I know that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line closer to the tie rod pivot. At some tracks though you may well be able to optimize your lap times with the "wrong" camber and over-inflated radial tires. Faster down the the straights, and not that much slower in the turns. I ran a set of R6s on Peyote briefly and discovered I could turn faster times at Road America with the tires overinflated and the camber cranked back a degree to 2.0. Those long straights demand low rolling friction. Watkins Glen was a tossup--the car was just as fast on Speedsters with the RIGHT camber and the R6s were pretty heat cycled out. And it felt better going over the bridge on Speedsters. On Sep 9, 2010, at 2:52 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. > >>> > While I basically agree, please define "wrong". > My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 20:04:57 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 19:04:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: Hmmm. Scratch that idea. I just went down and looked at the cheater TR3 that I based the notion on--that's not how it worked. I welded a plate onto the top pivot mount--or actually I think Colin Sparkes did. As I recall someone moved the pivot by making a bracket from a heavy angle iron that moved the pivot in half an inch. That might be pretty easy to do and would meet your criteria of being easy to remove without leaving holes. > > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the > pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new > holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an > inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber > gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease > bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner > pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the > lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think > they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line > closer to the tie rod pivot. From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 07:55:24 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:55:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? - Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, > McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 10 08:08:07 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:08:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 10 Sep 2010, Larry Young wrote: [stuff deleted] > The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? > - Larry Most race tracks have skid pads. So if you go on an open test day, fat city. I'll also point out that some autocross clubs will run test and tunes and these are a GREAT opportunity to dial in your tire pressures and temps for camber. In my region, we generally have a T&T each year and there are several clubs in the region that offer similar events. Failing that, a big parking lot works. Flat is best. But get permission from the owner. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 08:19:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:19:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Christian Marx new REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL DESIGN on eBAY Message-ID: <8CD1F0A5B0A1483-226C-BE6B@webmail-d042.sysops.aol.com> FOT, Chris' new seal design and my seal conversion kit is posted on eBay to test the market, if you want to look at it. I received 20 seals yesterday and 14 are spoken for. They will be available at TRF initially, too. BPNW, MOSS, and TRF will have the Centering Tool available initially,too. Thanks to Chris for making this available at his risk of tooling investment. Joe A From billb at bnj.com Fri Sep 10 08:51:50 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:51:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: <1872F8C3-70EA-455F-B32F-D9A702132B91@bnj.com> My skid pad was the parking lot of a building a friend owned. Unfortunately he sold the building. Really any large parking lot works fine as long as you can keep the car in a reasonably fast constant turn. It's not that big of a space but you need to be able to hold the turn and get up to some speed. On Sep 10, 2010, at 6:55 AM, Larry Young wrote: > Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. > > The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? > - Larry > > Bill Babcock wrote: >> Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, >> McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 08:51:46 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:51:46 EDT Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA Message-ID: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> FOT There's a number of shirts left from Topka...has a great shot of Kas in his TR3 on the back. See information below for cost. Contact me and I see that you get one or more. Thanks! I suggest that the FoT be advised that we have these shirts and that we will sell them at $8 each including shipping cost within the U.S.. From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 10 09:00:34 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:00:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 09:11:56 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:11:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: <4C8A4ABC.6090804@pobox.com> Bill, I've heard you describe this modification before. I'm not as knowledgeable on this subject as you, but I have trouble seeing how this helps. When I did the suspension on my TR3, I did a lot of measurements and used the Front Suspension Geometry Pro software to help figure things out. I also found the Puhn book on handling to be useful. At that time most people were shortening their upper A arms to increase negative camber, which moves the upper outer pivot inward. There was also the "Irv Corey" modification which moved the upper inner pivot inwards. This is done by mounting a piece of angle iron where the fulcrum would normally sit on top of the spring tower. Then two of the ears are cut off the fulcrum so it can be turned on it's side and mounted to the angle iron. I think either Irv or Jack sent me this sketch several years ago - www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/Irv_Korey_Mod.jpg. To get about -1.5 camber from stock would require this pivot to be moved about 0.5 inches. The software indicated that it didn't matter much whether the inner or outer pivot were moved laterally this amount. The software indicated you could make major improvements if you moved the fulcrum down by shortening the spring tower. This modification increases the camber gain which improves the camber when the body rolls in a turn. I think Jack told me he had seen this mod on someones car, perhaps Doug Karon's Ambro (current owner unknown). I never implemented this change, but I thought it was an interesting idea. Front Suspension Geometry Pro is not a very user friendly program. It requires you give all the dimensions in an awkward way. To save others from having to go through this, I wrote a report containing my measurements. Since it was written by an engineer, it is not the easiest report to read. Anyone that wants to get into this can download the report at - www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF. -Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the > pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new > holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an > inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber > gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease > bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner > pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the > lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think > they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line > closer to the tie rod pivot. From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 09:35:55 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:35:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <1363526095.1015349.1284132897383.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1245021414.1015413.1284132955155.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hey guys, Have you ever seen the Revington TR adjustable fulcrum pin. I installed one on my TR3. Pretty easy install with only slight mods. One includes welding the nuts to the bottom of the spring tower. You know, the ones that to remove them you have to take the spring out. If you weld them on, the pin can be removed or adjusted with out removing the spring. There are 2 other TR racers that I know of that use this kit. If you are curious check out their website. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "fot Triumph" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:00:34 AM Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net From billbab at me.com Fri Sep 10 09:37:27 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:37:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3A81A231-C582-4629-AAB2-115C7A1723F9@me.com> As far as I know they were not. That's why people shorten the upper arm, which causes as many problems as it fixes (exacerbates both camber gain and bump steer). If I were building a race car that adhered to the 62 GCR I'd still do the mod, but I'd make it removable as a bolt-in piece. On Sep 10, 2010, at 8:00 AM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: >> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? From s.janzen at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 09:38:14 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott janzen) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:38:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" wrote: >> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >> thing? > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving >> the pivot arm inwards > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of > suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM >> >>>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>>> because your camber is wrong. >>> >>>>> >>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >>> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >>> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >>> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >>> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >>> mile street car that it is. >>> >>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>> TR4 #314 >>> Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From rfdeanes at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 09:47:24 2010 From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:47:24 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes that was the fix and is still used, ARE (Joe A) has a bolt on part that is adjustable for that bar and there is in the states an adjustable upper a -arm that can be removed to go back to the "stock" upper arm..if that is your wish On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace > that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the > spring towers closer together, changing the camber? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" < > Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >>> thing? >>> >> Well... I guess it kinda' is for me >> >> >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the >>> pivot arm inwards >>> >> Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of >> suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> >>> >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your >>>>>> camber is wrong. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be >>>> put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty >>>> interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been >>>> bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to >>>> the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>>> >>>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>>> TR4 #314 >>>> Albuquerque NM >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com From billbab at me.com Fri Sep 10 10:08:15 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:08:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <34305590-6818-4922-A74D-0E0BF6B03E21@me.com> That would certainly work--sort of. On Sep 10, 2010, at 8:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" wrote: > >>> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? >> Well... I guess it kinda' is for me >> >> >>> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards >> Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >>> >>>>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. >>>> >>>>>> >>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>>> >>>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>>> TR4 #314 >>>> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri Sep 10 12:24:36 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:24:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <1245021414.1015413.1284132955155.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi AllI purchased one of their kits about a year and a half ago but have since decided not to use it. If anyone is interested in purchasing it please contact me off list for more info, etc desired. Regards,Dan Cronin --- On Fri, 9/10/10, davehogye wrote: From: davehogye Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber To: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Cc: "Bill Babcock" , "fot Triumph" Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 11:35 AM Hey guys, Have you ever seen the Revington TR adjustable fulcrum pin. I installed one on my TR3. Pretty easy install with only slight mods. One includes welding the nuts to the bottom of the spring tower. You know, the ones that to remove them you have to take the spring out. If you weld them on, the pin can be removed or adjusted with out removing the spring. There are 2 other TR racers that I know of that use this kit. If you are curious check out their website. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "fot Triumph" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:00:34 AM Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin at ameritech.net From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 13:18:11 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:18:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C8A8473.3030603@pobox.com> Ah, so you have Karon's Ambro. Your laser setup is trick. I did this back in 2003 and did everything with a homemade bumpsteer gauge and shop tools. I was able to measure a camber curve that matched the Triumph specs and get good agreement between the calculations and measurements. I spent a lot of time going back and forth between the shop and the computer. My report gives all the numbers I got, including when I compared moving the inner pivot versus shortening the A arms. Bill Babcock wrote: > I also used FSGP but I prefer SusProg3D, it's how I set Peyote up. I don't have my notebook here (in Hood River) but from memory, the amount of camber gain with the upper arm shortened increases substantially from an already too high value. I also directly measure camber gain and bump steer using a laser reflected off a very flat mirror onto graph paper stuck on the wall. The results are pretty shocking for stock TRs and most racing set ups. I'll take a look at the Ambro today (I'm on my way to Portland) --current owner is well known to me--it's me. I don't think the shock tower was modified. The Ambro has many handling problems and the suspension is more than a bit of a bodge. I'm in the process of peyotifying it. > > I ran hundreds of roll/bumps with suspension tweaks with FSGP and had a very hard time getting them to fit directly measured results. The biggest challenge seems to be that the trunnion cannot be properly represented in FSGP so you have to run two runs of every tweak and approximate. If the trunnion were a heim or ball joint the lateral pivot plane would be the same as the vertical plane--but it is offset by about 3/4". That's a big issue. Beven Young, who wrote SusProg3d added trunnion suspension options at my request, though looking at the marketing info for current version it seems to have slipped away--but I bet it's still really there. It's a lot better software, but it's expensive: A$335 though updates are always free and the support is terrific. I've had it since it first came available and Beven has never charged for anything since--even adding trunnions. > > As you say, the biggest challenge is getting the measurements. I had to build all kinds of tools to get them accurately. You also need a very flat floor. From kaskas at cox.net Fri Sep 10 13:28:25 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:28:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: <20100910152825.M9KN0.814360.imail@fed1rmwml36> I had a skid pad at Cal Sales in Gardena. It was actually a lot for parking about 500 cars but the shipments were late so it then became ala SKIDPAD. This is where I first tested and set the final for the camber compensater on the Spitfire and also the Detroit locker for the same car. Priceless how much you can learn in just a half hour. ---- Larry Young wrote: ============= Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? - Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, > McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From kaskas at cox.net Fri Sep 10 13:38:06 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:38:06 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100910153806.2XS24.814473.imail@fed1rmwml36> You were not permitted to alter the control arms during the early years or switch out the ball joints or slot the holes for the ball joint.. I turned the pivot arm around and that gave some help , but then it was time to cut the cross tube and call it chassis repair. ---- "Greg "Lunker" Hilyer" wrote: ============= > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From budscars at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 13:54:20 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:54:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP LAGUNA SECA Message-ID: Is Laguna Seca Kastner Cup 2011 or 2012? thanks Racer Bud From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 10 14:26:08 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:26:08 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-10-10 Message-ID: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> Amici, Here is the update for the Badge project as of 9-10-10. There are 43 badges committed to. Of these 37 have been paid for. The cost is $30 each. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1st. Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave., Vineland, NJ 08361) I have sent in the deposit of $200 to get things started. I will be getting an image of what it will look like in a few days. That will get posted to the Followers of FOT facebook page. This is a link to 5 images that show the preliminary idea of the Badge that I have posted on the facebook page today....... Grill badge Photos. The badges should be done and in the respective hands before Christmas. Thank you all Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 10 14:32:46 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:32:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-10-10 In-Reply-To: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> References: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> Message-ID: <97B3B0B4-9870-409E-9937-3474923AB830@aol.com> looks like the link didn't come threw. here it is.... cut and paste if need to.... http://www.facebook.com/photo.php? pid=31581352&o=all&op=1&view=all&subj=124727640888719&id=1398092718 On Sep 10, 2010, at 4:26 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici, > > Here is the update for the Badge project as of 9-10-10. > > There are 43 badges committed to. Of these 37 have been paid for. > The cost is $30 each. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1st. > > Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 > Italia Ave., Vineland, NJ 08361) > > I have sent in the deposit of $200 to get things started. I will be > getting an image of what it will look like in a few days. That will > get posted to the Followers of FOT facebook page. This is a link to > 5 images that show the preliminary idea of the Badge that I have > posted on the facebook page today....... Grill badge Photos. > > The badges should be done and in the respective hands before > Christmas. > > Thank you all > > Chris > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > seacubeco at aol.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 19:19:54 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:19:54 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <20100910153806.2XS24.814473.imail@fed1rmwml36> Message-ID: <8CD1F6692F34E03-1BDC-26B93@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Taking from Kas' 'cut the tube' we made adjustable tube and can adjust the camber with heim joints. This is on two of our cars. The TR4 for about 8 years, and now on the Ambro.....looks good too, and easy to remove. Folks are asking for them, so Sean is going to put into production, if you are interested. I think some pictures are on photobucket.com/ambro -----Original Message----- From: Kas Kastner To: Bill Babcock ; Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Cc: fot Triumph Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 2:38 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber You were not permitted to alter the control arms during the early years or witch out the ball joints or slot the holes for the ball joint.. I turned the ivot arm around and that gave some help , but then it was time to cut the ross tube and call it chassis repair. --- "Greg "Lunker" Hilyer" wrote: ============= that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? ell... I guess it kinda' is for me You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards ot that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of uspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer R4 #314 lbuquerque NM >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>> because your camber is wrong. > >>> > While I basically agree, please define "wrong". > My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could > also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked > windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and > all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise > molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 > mile street car that it is. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- ever be beaten by equipment ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 19:38:17 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:38:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com><94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com><6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com><681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net><5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD1F6924A2696E-1BDC-26E0E@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> We have the 'camber control rod' and gary horskorta has an adjustable upper a arm. gary's is very cool and very adjustable....he has sold several after I put it in Classic Motorsports. Ours is cheaper and easy to remove with engine and looks good with anodized aluminum tube. (we have an order from one wife as a christmas present. we will likely do a one time run of 25 assemblies) -----Original Message----- From: Robert Deanes To: Scott janzen Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:47 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber Yes that was the fix and is still used, ARE (Joe A) has a bolt on part that s adjustable for that bar and there is in the states an adjustable upper a arm that can be removed to go back to the "stock" upper arm..if that is our wish On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >> thing? >> > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the >> pivot arm inwards >> > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of > suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > >> >> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your >>>>> camber is wrong. >>>>> >>>> >>> >>>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be >>> put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty >>> interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been >>> bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to >>> the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>> >>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>> TR4 #314 >>> Albuquerque NM >>> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From mark at bradakis.com Fri Sep 10 21:52:51 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:52:51 -0600 Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP LAGUNA SECA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8AFD13.6010204@bradakis.com> RACER BUD wrote: > Is Laguna Seca Kastner Cup 2011 or 2012? > 2011, next year, coming up sooner than you might think. mjb. From igofaster at att.net Sun Sep 12 07:28:45 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:28:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA In-Reply-To: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> References: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> Message-ID: <708724.86196.qm@web180808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> although engine problems didn't allow me to make it to Topeka... I think I bought two tee shirts.... was it from Lunker? Bobby ________________________________ From: "N197TR4 at cs.com" To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: GSFuqua1 at aol.com; brinke at cebridge.net Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 9:51:46 AM Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA FOT There's a number of shirts left from Topka...has a great shot of Kas in his TR3 on the back. See information below for cost. Contact me and I see that you get one or more. Thanks! I suggest that the FoT be advised that we have these shirts and that we will sell them at $8 each including shipping cost within the U.S.. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Sep 12 21:13:04 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:13:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 Message-ID: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> I just got home from the YeeHaw 24 Hours of Lemons race in Houston where we campaigned a recently assembled rust bucket 1970 TR6. It was quite an experience but we shot ourselves in the foot too many times to have a good finish. You can see a few pictures of the car by checking out the YeeHaw coverage on Jalopnik. The really liked my clear coated rusty valve cover. http://jalopnik.com/5636123/and-the-real-winner-is Saturday was going well for us. We got through our first rotation of 6 drivers and were feeling pretty good. Driver one gat back out and proceeded to collect 2 black flags in about 5 minutes. The second one resulted in a broken wheel stud and bent swaybar mounts. The repair was difficult because we only had brought rear hubs as spares leaving a freshly machined rotor and hub was behind by accident. The next driver proceeded to go off in the picture shown on Jalopnik and collect black flag number 3. Lemon's rules are 4 black flags in a day and you are done for the weekend so we had to park it at 2:00 or so. Sunday started out much the same. We got black flagged after 4 laps for dumping fuel. They thought it was our overflow line which didn't have a check valve, We should have put on in but that wasn't the problem. We had incorrectly installed the access/fill cover after removing the cell foam, and it was leaking around the cover. Not a good thing at all. It took us hours to find a suitable tip over valve so we only raced about half of the day. We were chasing a severe miss that continued to get worse as the day progressed but the lap times didn't change as the drivers got better. When I drove it I though our TR6 really handled well so I can't explain the spins. I got in it this afternoon and very few cars passed me while I had a lot of fun passing more cars in one session than I ever have in my life. It was nice to be able to out brake almost everybody, be able to drive an inside line on almost everyone. I'd immediately pass the guys that just passed me on the straight, the old crossover move. Then another straight and they'd take it back. I know there was some metal to metal contact, but I didn't see any. The driving was great but the only problem area that I saw was the traffic jams that occured whenever a yellow came out. You could run up on that line right after passing a station that wasn't displaying yellow. My biggest frustration with this whole thing was how many mistakes we made. Not everyone understands was race car prep should look like, and it is hard to tell them and hard to check everything they do. Not to say I didn't make some too. We put together a car in a matter of weeks from a basket case, we should have started sooner. I got to use a lot of old parts that I've taken off my cars. I used the rear springs and swaybars that came on my TR4A. '60's vintahe stuff. I cut dowm some TRF comp springs for the fronts and then had to cut some more to fix ridde height. Remember those comp springs? They were the rallye height springs that some many of us bought. Mistake included the fuel cell. We bought a used one that had one year old foam that was disintegrating. We put in new foam and then found out that ethanol fuel hurts the foam. It was in there already but we pulled it in trying to find a fuel delivery problem. We didn't check the distributor in our junkyard dog and the advance wasn't working. We tried to run on increased static advance but we couldn't get it to rev over 4500. We'd time it in the pits and think we had it but it would get some centrifical advance at extended runs with the pedal to the floor. I'm rambling, look at Jalopnik and tell me if you'd like more. Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Sep 12 21:18:03 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:18:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] moreJalopnik posts that cover our TR6 Message-ID: http://jalopnik.com/people/murileemartin/posts/ Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi From jason at multivintage.com Mon Sep 13 09:15:52 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:15:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] moreJalopnik posts that cover our TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Looks like a slightly less refined group than those attending the Kastner Cup. Nice Job...This looks fun and pretty crazy. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Bob Kramer wrote: > http://jalopnik.com/people/murileemartin/posts/ > > Bob Kramer > Volente, TX > > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From jason at multivintage.com Mon Sep 13 09:36:21 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:36:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY Message-ID: I guess Its GT6 month On Ebay... Here's another one for sale. This one has seen a bit more track time. Looks quite developed in the lightness category. Right hand Drive. Very smoothed bodywork. Not sure its very legal to most vintage specs but sure looks Fast and COOL. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Triumph-GT6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb0c6e270QQitemZ260663861872QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ5fLegalQ5f Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Sep 13 10:28:10 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:28:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100913162810.N1JQI.22504.root@cdptpa-web23-z01> If there is any interest in this car, I looked at personally about two months ago. Let me know what you would like to know. It does have a TR6 motor, TR7 gear box and an open diff in it. The smooth body work is all quite well done in steel with very little if any filler. Bob ---- Jason Ostrowski wrote: > I guess Its GT6 month On Ebay... Here's another one for sale. This one has > seen a bit more track time. Looks quite developed in the lightness category. > Right hand Drive. Very smoothed bodywork. Not sure its very legal to most > vintage specs but sure looks Fast and COOL. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Triumph-GT6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb0c6e270QQitemZ260663861872QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ5fLegalQ5f > > > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Sep 13 10:36:13 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:36:13 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> First lap at Zandvoort.....(where does all these cars come from...there were none of them in the beginning) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpDL9YkDX1Q Cheers Chris From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Sep 13 12:27:40 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:27:40 EDT Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY Message-ID: To my eye this is a lovely car and seems well worth the opening bid. I've watched it for a couple of years and for some unknown reason it's "The Irish Car" in my mind. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Sep 13 13:31:36 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:31:36 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> References: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> Message-ID: <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> And the full race: http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5516438328196705922 The OD passed away after 5 laps and I lost some top speed. Cheers Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 13 15:17:42 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:17:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> References: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> Message-ID: Cool video! at first when I saw the spedo I was shocked to see 190 (mph), then I realized that the page was in German and it was 190 KPH (118mph) Still cool! I hope I can get some good video from my friend in two weeks at NJMP Chris On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:31 PM, MadMarx wrote: > And the full race: > > http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5516438328196705922 > > The OD passed away after 5 laps and I lost some top speed. > > Cheers > Chris > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > seacubeco at aol.com From kaskas at cox.net Mon Sep 13 15:35:33 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:35:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Anyone have a report? -- Never be beaten by equipment From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 15:49:32 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:49:32 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <15143992.1284414572793.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi Kas Chequered Flag Racing had a clean sweep. Joseph Siam FP 1147 Gary Shuman DP 1300 and John Wilkins old Spit racer won CP Datsun 240Z. Joe -----Original Message----- >From: Kas Kastner >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? > >Anyone have a report? >-- >Never be beaten by equipment >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsiam1 at earthlink.net > > Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From capecoventryracing at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:56:28 2010 From: capecoventryracing at gmail.com (John Nikas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:56:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: On another note, Mark Vaden, Mike Bruner and Alec MacArthur drove great races such that they finished 2d, 3d and 5th in DP to Shuman's Spitfire. Steve Belfer was ridiculously quick to finish 2d in E Production while I finished 2d in DPX to a 66 427 Corvette while driving a borrowed 240Z. On Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM, "Kas Kastner" wrote: > Anyone have a report? > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/capecoventryracing at gmail.com From capecoventryracing at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:56:28 2010 From: capecoventryracing at gmail.com (John Nikas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:56:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: On another note, Mark Vaden, Mike Bruner and Alec MacArthur drove great races such that they finished 2d, 3d and 5th in DP to Shuman's Spitfire. Steve Belfer was ridiculously quick to finish 2d in E Production while I finished 2d in DPX to a 66 427 Corvette while driving a borrowed 240Z. On Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM, "Kas Kastner" wrote: > Anyone have a report? > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/capecoventryracing at gmail.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 16:03:56 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:03:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: Buttonwillow was blast! Not a very big turnout but fun all the same. Lots of good Triumph battles out there. I was doing a pretty good job in the TR3 and had some good passes with Mike Bruner. I got him really good in the practice. He got me back and Mark Vaden in the TR4 started from the back and gained 16 positions to finish 2nd in D. Fun times. Nikas was in a z-car going very quickly around the course, setting new personal best times around the track. ~Steve On Sep 13, 2010, at 2:35 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: Anyone have a report? -- Never be beaten by equipment _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 17:11:02 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:11:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <19970968.1284419462737.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Thanks John and Steven for filling in more details. I was so busy with my 2 renters Bill,Rick and Jerry my new guy I didn't get a chance to watch the race as we were in the next group. Joe -----Original Message----- >From: Steven Belfer >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 3:03 PM >To: Kas Kastner >Cc: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? > >Buttonwillow was blast! Not a very big turnout but fun all the same. >Lots of good Triumph battles out there. I was doing a pretty good job >in the TR3 and had some good passes with Mike Bruner. I got him >really good in the practice. He got me back and Mark Vaden in the TR4 >started from the back and gained 16 positions to finish 2nd in D. Fun >times. Nikas was in a z-car going very quickly around the course, >setting new personal best times around the track. > >~Steve > > > > >On Sep 13, 2010, at 2:35 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > >Anyone have a report? >-- >Never be beaten by equipment >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsiam1 at earthlink.net > > Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From cwnfot at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 18:57:56 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:57:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f001cb53a7$df500bc0$9df02340$@com> I can't understand why there is so little description about the car and its features. Very odd. Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 13 19:12:51 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:12:51 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Axle shims Message-ID: I'm putting together a TR3 for the street, and can't seem to find any reference for how to shim the axles. On race cars I always just made sure they weren't pressing on each other. I have some of the old uprated axles and a Quaife rear end that I'm sticking in. Being more fussy than I would be for racing. Don't want it to be noisy. From dlhogye at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 19:19:25 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 01:19:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request In-Reply-To: <1094361865.1156549.1284427124859.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello FoT, I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. Thanks in advance, Dave H. From tr6driver at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 19:21:24 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:21:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 In-Reply-To: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> References: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> Message-ID: <434206.62661.qm@web52507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Great race report, Bob! Now, all we have to do is figure out a way to get the two "low budget endurance racing" TR6's together at the same venue :-) Our next race is the "Not Quite 12 Hours of Sebring" (11 hrs, 29 minutes...don't ask me!) on September 25-26. I hope we're able to improve on our 14th and 17th at Roebling Road...after we are pretty sure we've fixed the vapor lock (important) and the oil leakage (very important) and made a few more performance enhancements (like actually using aluminum wheels instead of stock TR6 ones). Love the shot from the rear! Sorry you had the black flag issue to deal with...I think that's the major reason we're racing ChumpCar rather than Lemons. Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing #0 '75 TR6 ChumpCar http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com (needs updating, I know...) ________________________________ From: Bob Kramer To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, September 12, 2010 11:13:04 PM Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 I just got home from the YeeHaw 24 Hours of Lemons race in Houston where we campaigned a recently assembled rust bucket 1970 TR6. It was quite an experience but we shot ourselves in the foot too many times to have a good finish. You can see a few pictures of the car by checking out the YeeHaw coverage on Jalopnik. The really liked my clear coated rusty valve cover. From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Mon Sep 13 19:46:46 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:46:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Weekend Update Message-ID: <02ed01cb53ae$fcb38730$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi all, here's the scoop on the Watkins Glen Vintage GP held over the weekend. The weather was crappy Friday AM and most of Sunday; most of the folks cleared out by Sunday noon. There were seven Triumphs there; 4 Spits, a TR3, a 4A, Dick Stockton's TR4, and my TR6. Dick was fastest of the TR bunch with a 2:22.8. I knocked off 10 seconds from last year and did a 2:44.9. Getting better. In the Sat afternoon qualifier, I went through the last turn, saw the checker waving, and shifted into 4th. With no results! I coasted across the line and finished with no drive. We think the clutch disc gave it up. Several folks helped me check it out; we all figured it was the disc. It's a PITA to change, so I spectated the rest of the weekend. Thanks for the help Scott, Dick, and Allen, and others. Bill From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 13 20:13:27 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:13:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Axle shims In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063201cb53b2$6f8c2250$0301a8c0@randall> > I'm putting together a TR3 for the street, and can't seem to find any > reference for how to shim the axles. On race cars I always > just made sure they > weren't pressing on each other. It's in the TR3 appendix to the factory workshop manual. Basically it says to check for .004" to .006" endplay at either hub, with the shim packs roughly equal between sides (to keep the center button in the center). Randall From klynch_6 at msn.com Mon Sep 13 20:41:32 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:41:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Irish car Message-ID: Was thinking the same thing Steve... ;= ) From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Sep 14 08:40:12 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request In-Reply-To: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C8F894C.2060504@pobox.com> I contemplated this change on my TR3, but decided against it based on advice from one of the FoT. When you compare the brake pads, you will notice the TR3 pad is significantly larger. More pad means better stopping power. I think that is more important than weight. Besides, your conscience will feel better because you will be pure TR3. Larry On 9/13/2010 8:19 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello FoT, > I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. > Thanks in advance, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com From BillDentin at aol.com Tue Sep 14 09:33:33 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:33:33 EDT Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Message-ID: <35a94.3c6ff1e5.39c0efcd@aol.com> In a message dated 09/14/2010 9:40:43 AM Central Daylight Time, cartravel at pobox.com writes: > I contemplated this change on my TR3, but decided against it based on > advice from one of the FoT. When you compare the brake pads, you will > notice the TR3 pad is significantly larger. More pad means better > stopping power. I think that is more important than weight. Besides, > your conscience will feel better because you will be pure TR3. > I agree with Larry! Bill Dentinger From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 14 09:45:59 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:45:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Thanks for the brake info In-Reply-To: <2145791240.1179938.1284479042931.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1155098294.1180063.1284479159180.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> This group is amazing, Thanks to everyone for the information, insightful comments and offering of the parts that I'll need to make the brake change. I really appreciate the FoT. Dave H. From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Tue Sep 14 15:55:32 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:55:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Joe Downer Message-ID: Joe Your check has arrived Thank you Chris From rocky at spitfire4.com Tue Sep 14 17:13:35 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 18:13:35 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of > their race motor? > > -- Randall Absolutely! Before I began racing, I used to see guys at the track routinely go under the hood, pull the distributor, then take a speed wrench or a cordless drill and pump up oil pressure (then have to re-set and static-time the distributor) before starting the engine. First thing I saw when I learned what an Accusump was, was the lack of any need to do that. That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and another in 1980. Haven't really had an oil-related problem since. Oh, I've invented plenty of other problems since then, but adequate oil pressure, especially on startup, hasn't been one of them. Accusump is cheap insurance. --Rocky Entriken From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 14 19:02:37 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 01:02:37 GMT Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Message-ID: <20100914.210237.13237.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> The TR6 parts will bolt directly on to the TR3 uprights. it is an easy conversion. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: davehogye To: Fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 01:19:25 +0000 (UTC) Hello FoT, I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. Thanks in advance, Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Moms Asked to Return to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c901b52e0e77bc928bst01duc From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 14 23:30:32 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 22:30:32 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> > That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and > another in 1980. At startup? Randall From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 00:19:25 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:19:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am completely convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life of my engines. I know how the bearing used to look before I started using one, and how they look these days. I know how frequently I used to see oil pressure drop in hard corners, or hear the clatter of an underlubed engine when I couldn't spare a glance at the guages, and how often I wouldn't see any significant pressure for several agonizing seconds after starting. I know how long my engines last these days--counted in seasons, not races. It's as close to a dry sump as we are likely to get with these cars, and it offers benefits that standard dry sumps don't. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 15 02:21:40 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 01:21:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> Message-ID: <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> > While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am > completely > convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life > of my engines. I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. Randall From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:00:54 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:00:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to understand where you are headed with this notion. Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >> completely >> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >> of my engines. > > I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit > bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. > > My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have > just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil > leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing > load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). > > OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly > does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some > benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. > > Randall From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 09:17:32 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:17:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:01 AM To: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to understand where you are headed with this notion. Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >> completely >> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >> of my engines. > > I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit > bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. > > My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have > just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil > leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing > load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). > > OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly > does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some > benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. > > Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:18:05 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:18:05 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Incidentally, babbit bearing don't just need oil under pressure to cool them, they require pressure to build a wedge on the leading edge of the load area. And Babbit bearing are not primitive, they are often the best choice for modern high load applications. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are > babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A > residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains > away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job > of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for > the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's > sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when > there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done > it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to > understand where you are headed with this notion. > > Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately > see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and > see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> >>> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >>> completely >>> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >>> of my engines. >> >> I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit >> bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. >> >> My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have >> just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil >> leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing >> load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). >> >> OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly >> does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some >> benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 09:27:45 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:27:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall><78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com><090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <8CD2301AE32D931-1938-ED2@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> I'm in complete agreement here, the average race car system has a lot of volume to fill, hoses, filter, cooler, before it builds up pressure. Another point that should be mentioned, it is SOP on any race car to pull plugs & spin it over for oil pressure before the first start of the day. Obviously the accusump does away with that... Glen I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 09:30:50 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:30:50 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall><78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com><090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Message-ID: <8CD23021C9060E2-1938-F7E@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> Yes it helps. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Tim Murphy To: 'Bill Babcock' ; 'Randall' Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 15, 2010 11:17 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. Tim From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:54:13 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:54:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Message-ID: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 10:43:13 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:43:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear reduction starter which should help. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 10:53:23 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:53:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 11:14:00 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:14:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> Message-ID: <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it easy on it. They aren't cheap. On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear > reduction starter which should help. > > Tim > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're > probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if > you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're > sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, > distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it > up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for > your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is > fully pressurized. > > Hmm, I wonder which is better. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the > oil >> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would >> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a >> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >> >> Tim From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:18:52 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:18:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> Message-ID: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:29:28 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:29:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> Message-ID: <361124353.522022.1284571768846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I've had my issues with the gear reduction starters too. It seems Chris Marx has cured our rear main woes, I wonder if we can get him to have a look at a better starterB ? Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Tim Murphy" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 11:14:00 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it easy on it. They aren't cheap. On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear > reduction starter which should help. > > Tim > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're > probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if > you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're > sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, > distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it > up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for > your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is > fully pressurized. > > Hmm, I wonder which is better. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the > oil >> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would >> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a >> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >> >> Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 11:34:34 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:34:34 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <148985.e3c7836.39c25ae8@aol.com> References: <148985.e3c7836.39c25ae8@aol.com> Message-ID: <5EF28D7B-AF7F-4227-90D7-9833A924373B@bnj.com> Yeah, I've fixed a few too, but it's a lot of work. Usually it's just the field coil wire coming unstuck because of heat. I'd rather use them for starting instead of pre-oiling. On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:22 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/15/2010 12:14:35 PM Central Daylight Time, billb at bnj.com writes: > > >> Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it >> easy on it. They aren't cheap. > > > We have an outfit near by rewind/rewire our starters when they go down. I think we pay about $85 for that. > > Bill Dentinger From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 12:11:31 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:11:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD23188EE6C749-2F0-BCB@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> I have most of my bearings done by Polymer Dynamics in Texas, mains & rods. The thickness is usually a couple tenths (I think they call out .0002-.0004), per shell, and it absolutely must be accounted for when calling out the crank regrind spec, if you are building to a reasonable degree of accuracy. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: Tim Murphy Cc: Randall ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 15, 2010 1:18 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 15 13:12:44 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:12:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] GT6 Racer - Fenton, MI Message-ID: <339033.11056.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270632682622&viewitem NFI Doug Mitchell From jerrybarr at charter.net Wed Sep 15 13:18:29 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:18:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> Back when I was in the diesel engine business and before, as far as I know before accusump, CAT came up with a prelub starter. it had a position on the ignition for prelub and then to start the engine. To start you would turn to position 1 and run the prelub pump then continue to start. At the time it seemed like a good idea and worked well. On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are > babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A > residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains > away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job > of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for > the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's > sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when > there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done > it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to > understand where you are headed with this notion. > > Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately > see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and > see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> >>> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >>> completely >>> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >>> of my engines. >> >> I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit >> bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. >> >> My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have >> just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil >> leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing >> load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). >> >> OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly >> does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some >> benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 13:46:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:46:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> Message-ID: Oil accumulators come out of the aviation world. Canton has been supplying them to motorsports for 20 years. There ARE some engine builders that don't like them, generally from experience with clueless drivers who open the manual ball valve on an empty accusump at startup and rob oil pressure. So don't do that. Either throttle the accusump until it reaches normal system pressure or install an electric valve. Not only do the electric valves reduce the likelihood of emptying the sump because you forgot to close the valve prior to shutting off the engine, but they also throttle the filling to prevent robbing pressure. That's why they are a bit expensive--they are not simple solenoid valves, they have some trick regulator bits in them. Summit has a barebones 1 1/2 quart moroso accumulator for $69. Add a manual valve for $13 and a little plumbing and you're in biz. Electric valves are about $120 and worth it IMHO. The barebones sump doesn't have a air side pressure gauge, but you can read that with your tire pressure gauge and save fifty bucks. Plumb it straight to the oil gallery and you don't need much tubing, fittings, and you don't need a check valve. Simple as bricks. > Back when I was in the diesel engine business and before, as far as I know before accusump, CAT came up with a prelub starter. it had a position on the ignition for prelub and then to start the engine. To start you would turn to position 1 and run the prelub pump then continue to start. At the time it seemed like a good idea and worked well. > On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 15:43:04 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 16:43:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <004101cb551e$fb1f1850$f15d48f0$@com> Ibve been told that the coating is so thin that the journal size does not have to be changed to accommodate it. I think it may even say that on Calicobs web site. I wouldnbt think 0.00025 to 0.00030 inches added to the bearing thickness would make too much difference, granted thatbs a half a thousandth on the diameter. I have found that measuring the bearing bore, the bearing shell thickness and the crank journal can add up to probably an error of +/- 0.0002 to 0.0003 just in the stack up of the estimated measuring error. That is unless you have access to some really good calibrated metrology equipment. Measuring to 1/10,000 of an inch is pretty darn hard, even with good equipment. Tim From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net [mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:19 PM To: Tim Murphy Cc: Randall; fot at autox.team.net; Bill Babcock Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 19:51:44 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Ten or fifteen years, give or take a few. There is a known problem with the field coil winding overheating and yanking it's wire loose. I know Ted Schumacher's starters no longer do that, but all of these motors are a bit fragile--way better than stock, but I have lots of pieces of them. Tony Garmey always keeps a spare or two, I always kept two. I have to say that I'm searching back in memory to talk about this stuff. These days I show up, drive the car in practice, tell Tony what I think. Hang out, take a nap or talk with people knowing my car will be ready and in tip-top condition. Go out and break my personal lap record. I'm pretty sure having Horizon Racing do the work is actually cheaper than doing it all myself. It is certainly an order of magnitude more professional. Especially if you factor in a F350, a 34' Airstream, a huge house with a 1500 square foot shop under it, and all the specialized equipment I bought over the years to play with this stuff. I think my Miller Synchrowave Welder would pay for a good part of a year with Horizon racing. Of course if I didn't have it how would I melt, distort and otherwise screw up all those pieces of aluminum and stainless. Very civilized. And Annie cooks lunch and dinner. Sheesh. On Sep 15, 2010, at 5:22 PM, Greg & Alison Blake wrote: > Interesting. In how long of a period? Do you think it is heat related? > > Thanks, > > Greg > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bill Babcock > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:14 PM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it > easy on it. They aren't cheap. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear >> reduction starter which should help. >> >> Tim >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] >> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM >> To: Tim Murphy >> Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump >> >> Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're >> probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course > if >> you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're >> sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, >> distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it >> up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for >> your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is >> fully pressurized. >> >> Hmm, I wonder which is better. >> >> On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: >> >>> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the >> oil >>> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would >>> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite > a >>> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >>> >>> Tim > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2 at austin.rr.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 00:04:17 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 01:04:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emer yville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100916060349.2A5B618767D@autox.team.net> I coat both the main and rod bearings. The coating is thin enough you don't need any additional allowance for it. It makes a huge difference in visible wear during teardown even when running an accusump. One other thing to mention regarding the accusump pre-lube at start: we're running high compression and high loads in the valve train - much higher than on a street car. And, cranks, rods and cams are VERY expensive. Anything we can do to prevent metal to metal is worth installing. - Tony At 12:18 PM 9/15/2010, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 >- .30 mil. > >( per Calico ) > >In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the >bearings. > > > >Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when > >cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with >the > >allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. > > > >Jim G > > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Tim Murphy" >To: "Bill Babcock" >Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net >Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM >Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > >One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other >folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help >prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the >machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin >who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was >working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. > >Tim > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] >Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM >To: Tim Murphy >Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > >Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're >probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if >you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're >sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, >distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it >up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for >your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is >fully pressurized. > >Hmm, I wonder which is better. > >On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > > > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the >oil > > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > > > Tim >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 16 01:20:58 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 02:20:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Bill, Going out on a limb here. All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. Your comments are usually very insightful and helpful and correct. However, rarely geared toward the understanding of a racer on a budget...even when questions are being asked by racers on a budget. I would love to have an acusump, tire temp gauge, plenty of every conceivable spare, etc... but right now I just try to race with what I have within the boundaries of what I can afford. I put all I can into my race car but I cannot afford all the best equipment for every single part or accessory. I just thank the Racing Gods every weekend I get out on track. I'm using my last 300 bucks of spending money for this month to fill my cooler and enter a race this weekend. I hope being up late in the garage every night this week with greasy hands will reward me with leaving a few Porches in the dust. My friends and family do the same work of a top paid mechanic....for BEER. Somehow I think the rewards of racing are greater if you can compete (with less) on the same level of those spending more money and having more means to win. Sorry to get all Philosophical but I always root for the underdog. And I would stay up all night to get a fellow competitor in the race. That's the Friendly Ghost way. Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Ten or fifteen years, give or take a few. There is a known problem with > the > field coil winding overheating and yanking it's wire loose. I know Ted > Schumacher's starters no longer do that, but all of these motors are a bit > fragile--way better than stock, but I have lots of pieces of them. Tony > Garmey > always keeps a spare or two, I always kept two. > > I have to say that I'm searching back in memory to talk about this stuff. > These days I show up, drive the car in practice, tell Tony what I think. > Hang > out, take a nap or talk with people knowing my car will be ready and in > tip-top condition. Go out and break my personal lap record. > > I'm pretty sure having Horizon Racing do the work is actually cheaper than > doing it all myself. It is certainly an order of magnitude more > professional. > Especially if you factor in a F350, a 34' Airstream, a huge house with a > 1500 > square foot shop under it, and all the specialized equipment I bought over > the > years to play with this stuff. I think my Miller Synchrowave Welder would > pay > for a good part of a year with Horizon racing. Of course if I didn't have > it > how would I melt, distort and otherwise screw up all those pieces of > aluminum > and stainless. > > Very civilized. And Annie cooks lunch and dinner. > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2 at austin.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 02:42:25 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 01:42:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Absolutely Jason. More power to you. I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's more fun to do it yourself. I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I understand. My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of anything that does more for less. All the best, Bill On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > Bill, > Going out on a limb here. > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. > ... > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 06:22:44 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:22:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4CBE73B7-5C86-4550-B1C0-8F6FA7C01170@comcast.net> no worries, Bill. You did give me pause for a moment there - I've been contemplating a new heavy duty tow vehicle, and certainly it would cost enough to pay for several years of track-side service . . . but I'm still at a stage where I enjoy the wrenching and the problem solving as much as the driving. Besides, my wife jokes she's having an affair with the UPS guy, he comes by so often with parts and tools! When you're ready to auction off all those excess shop tools you no longer need, I'm sure the FOT gang will show up and clean you out! On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:42 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: Absolutely Jason. More power to you. I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's more fun to do it yourself. I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I understand. My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of anything that does more for less. All the best, Bill On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > Bill, > Going out on a limb here. > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get > the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. > ... > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 07:01:45 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:01:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> Message-ID: <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> FOT....PLEASE ACCEPT MY SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI ac at camoletti Alexandre is preparing what is likely to be the most unique TR3 in the world. Meticulous in the research and application of original Triumph parts and components Competition Preparation substantially following the 'teachings' of Kas Kastner. Concours and Museum quality work through out.... Please welcome ALEXANDRE.....he will doubtless provide a great amount of value added content to the FOT. Kas and I have been contact with Alexandre for some time now. Kas regrets that he did not discover Alexandre and his TR3 in time for inclusion in his new book. WELCOME ABOARD, ALEXANDRE! JOE A. -----Original Message----- From: Alexandre Camoletti To: n197tr4 at cs.com Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 6:48 am Subject: FOT YES! Of course ! With great pleasure and honour! , thank you so much Joe to invite me to your private racing enthusiasts group! How do we proceed to my benrolLmentb ? Just read the old article on Kasb website bYa pays yer moneyb&b, what a fantastic piece of realing! With best regards Alexandre PS: I am also rebuilding a Lotus turbo esprit , an early one (1982) with the very rare (and excellent) dry sump engine. Car will be used for track and long distance fast travelling. opportunity some time to travel to Europe, I will be glad to invite you for a lunch or dinner at my place in Geneva (Switzerland), it would be a great honour to meet you in person. Thank you very much Mr Kastner! With my best regards Alexandre Camoletti From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 07:42:44 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:42:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT NOMINATIONS VS SPONSORSHIPS Message-ID: <8CD23BC2CC9E9F7-A1C-12B49@Webmail-m106.sysops.aol.com> FOT Some of you have noticed.......a change in my approach to FOT list membership. "SPONSORSHIP" I have been giving this some thought. The "NOMINATION" procedure worked at the begining when there was so few of us. I dont think it works very well anymore. As I see it..... A "SPONSOR" is responsible for the person he offers to the list. The candidate should be someone who is in a postion to ADD VALUE to the list and it's postings. The FOT is not open to everyone, and should not be. Not all of our folks are engaged in a direct form of TRIUMPH competition, but they are in a postion to add value to the list. It is up to the SPONSOR to qualify the candidate...the responsibility is yours. "No rules, no dues, no board of directors" has prevailed over about 13 years....some said it couldnt be done. But I would like to add some substance to the process of including new members....without being elitist. Please give it a try....thanks! Joe A From klynch_6 at msn.com Thu Sep 16 08:13:57 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:13:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity Message-ID: What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? thanks! Kevin From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 16 08:51:46 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:51:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Great, I just don't want you to get too rusty as I will have many, many questions for you when my dad and I start putting together our AMBRO. In Speed and Triumph Unity, Jason FGR On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 3:42 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Absolutely Jason. More power to you. > > I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've > done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a > silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I > have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem > remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a > motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept > in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times > I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, > pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built > my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked > 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. > > Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding > calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in > a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. > Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's > more fun to do it yourself. > > I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my > life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't > have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the > process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the > economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my > race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly > working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I > understand. > > My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a > barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, > bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of > anything that does more for less. > > All the best, > Bill > > On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > > > Bill, > > Going out on a limb here. > > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the > car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and > drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other > stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more > fun. > > ... > > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > > Jason Ostrowski > > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From fasttrs at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 09:01:05 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:01:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race engines. Mike #28 EP TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:13 AM, "KEVIN LYNCH" wrote: > What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? > > thanks! > > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From klynch_6 at msn.com Thu Sep 16 09:41:46 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:41:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander Message-ID: I'd be remiss if I didn't wish Joe a Happy Birthday..! Kevin From fubog1 at aol.com Thu Sep 16 09:41:17 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:41:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD23CCBCE1F03F-1E40-144B1@webmail-m096.sysops.aol.com> 3 HTH Glen (note this is just my personal opinion and falls under the category "something I read on the internet") -----Original Message----- From: Mike Munson To: KEVIN LYNCH Cc: FOT Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 11:01 am Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race engines. Mike #28 EP TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:13 AM, "KEVIN LYNCH" wrote: > What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? > > thanks! > > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From RustyTR4 at aol.com Thu Sep 16 09:46:27 2010 From: RustyTR4 at aol.com (RustyTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:46:27 EDT Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander Message-ID: <1b6511.735e1ddd.39c395d3@aol.com> Ditto from all of us here......... Triumph Rescue 617 Walnut St. Bally, Pa. 19503 610-845-8217 _www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) British Wiring 617 Walnut St. P.O. Box 185 Bally, Pa. 19503 _www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/) From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 09:50:14 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:50:14 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> Sounds like a great addition. On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 09:55:49 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:55:49 -0700 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Mike Munson wrote: > I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be > more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race > engines. > > Mike > #28 EP TR6 From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 10:03:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:03:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> Message-ID: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 that really sucks ;^p On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:50 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Sounds like a great addition. > On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 10:09:17 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:09:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch><8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com><6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD23D0A5F45DDE-1378-1972@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com> but 70 gets you free lift tickets in Colorado....in March from a business standpoint they dont lose much revenue, do they? -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Bill Babcock Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net; ac at camoletti.ch Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 11:03 am Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 hat really sucks ;^p On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:50 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Sounds like a great addition. On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From donmarshall at nefcom.net Thu Sep 16 10:24:02 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:24:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something that can normally be done here at home? -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM To: Mike Munson Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. From ikorey at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 10:29:21 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:29:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning > 60 > that really sucks ;^p > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 10:41:20 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:41:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Irv: It is impossible for Joe to be over 60 as he would have to take retirement and it doesn't appear he is about to do that. Happy Birthday Joe!!! --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Irv Korey wrote: You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From brad.kahler at 141.com Thu Sep 16 10:55:59 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:55:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: But Joe IS retired....:) On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 12:41 PM, Ernest Husmann wrote: > Irv: > > It is impossible for Joe to be over 60 as he would have to take retirement and > it doesn't appear he is about to do that. > > Happy Birthday Joe!!! > > --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than > aware that turning 60 "really sucks". > > ;-) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bkahler1 at gmail.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 11:06:25 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:06:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? Message-ID: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> Where can I get a radiator cap for my TR3? It sticks down deep about 1" into the neck. I see moss carries a 7lb cap but I need more like 10-15lb for racing. Any sources? ~Steve From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:18:00 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:18:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, but be careful doing it. I've had mine apart. There's a hard coating on the inside that you really don't want to scratch. It's basically just a tube with a piston that separates air from the oil. I thought mine might be sticking because I clamped it in the wrong place. It wasn't. Cleaned it all up with some fresh diesel and stuck it back together. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:24 AM, Don Marshall wrote: > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:20:59 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:20:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8F0A4733-6272-44C3-9699-ECF13AF87EA1@bnj.com> If you are using a manual valve you need to get to it when starting the car. If you want it out of the cockpit you can either use a cable remote or electric valve. Fifty bucks is great, especially since it probably has a valve and a little plumbing. Those Porsche guys are handy to know. BMW drivers tend to sell nice stuff cheap too. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:15 AM, KEVIN LYNCH wrote: > Thanks Bill, as it turns out a Porsche friend has a Moroso 2-2.5 qt.? unit for $50. > I've always seen them mounted in cockpit, as I get into this I'm now hearing of engine compartment placement. > All new to me... thanks again~ Kev > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bill Babcock > To: Mike Munson > Cc: KEVIN LYNCH ; FOT > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:55 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity > > I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. > > On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Mike Munson wrote: > > > I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be > > more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race > > engines. > > > > Mike > > #28 EP TR6 From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:21:43 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:21:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: Surely you jest, he's a mere child. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 > that really sucks ;^p > > > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". > > ;-) From tstrange at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 16 11:34:29 2010 From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:34:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <616769.61387.qm@web81107.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for reminding us Kevin, .... Happy Birthday Joe .... and many more (someone has to keep this group on the straight & narrow ;>))))) Tom http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm #4 white spitfire --- On Thu, 9/16/10, KEVIN LYNCH wrote: From: KEVIN LYNCH Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander To: "FOT" Date: Thursday, September 16, 2010, 10:41 AM I'd be remiss if I didn't wish Joe a Happy Birthday..! Kevin _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 16 11:39:48 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:39:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? Be sure to release the precharge before disassembly. If you don't, the piston will fly across the shop. Some of my students experimented with this... John H. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 11:40:27 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:40:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD23DD6283C2CF-A54-6C18@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> as bill dentinger says...."it's never too late to have a happy childhood". -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Irv Korey Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net; ac at camoletti.ch Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 12:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 Surely you jest, he's a mere child. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Irv Korey wrote: On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 that really sucks ;^p You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 12:08:28 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:08:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: <15642.75418.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <15642.75418.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes. I held it in the mount and used a hose clamp on top of a strap wrench. I saw a special tool someone had made to do the same thing at Sears Point last year. If I were going to do it again I'd make one. Just a hole turned inside a plate of aluminum with a slot milled through one side, and clamping tabs milled on both sides of the slot and a handle welded on. The same guy made his mounts in a similar fashion. Very sano. On Sep 16, 2010, at 10:41 AM, tom strange wrote: > Bill, > Do the ends just screw off??? & what did you use to accomplish that? how did you hold it etc??? > > Tom > > http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm > > > #4 white spitfire > > > --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Bill Babcock wrote: > > From: Bill Babcock > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity > To: "Don Marshall" > Cc: "'FOT'" > Date: Thursday, September 16, 2010, 12:18 PM > > Yes, but be careful doing it. I've had mine apart. There's a hard coating on > the inside that you really don't want to scratch. It's basically just a tube > with a piston that separates air from the oil. I thought mine might be > sticking because I clamped it in the wrong place. It wasn't. Cleaned it all up > with some fresh diesel and stuck it back together. > On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:24 AM, Don Marshall wrote: > > > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with > bits > > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > > that can normally be done here at home? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 15:20:05 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:20:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Message-ID: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? Jim G From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 16 15:40:54 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:40:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8033C@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> It appears APT is now selling nitrided lifters, at $10.48 each. Scott B. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 4:20 PM To: fot Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? Jim G _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/scott.barr at mccarty-law.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 16:37:40 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:37:40 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Message-ID: Subject says it all. You be the judge. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 16:50:43 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:50:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > Subject says it all. You be the judge. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- > collection-100-cars-/160481458567? > pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 17:03:03 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:03:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> Works fine if you glue the URL together. My answer would be: No Thanks. On Sep 16, 2010, at 3:50 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: > That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >> Subject says it all. You be the judge. >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >> collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 17:09:46 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:09:46 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> That appears to be the business, "Triumph's Only." Looks like they are unloading everything. The bottom of the ad listed 595K for the lot. Yikes! Maybe they have a radiator cap for me : ) ~Steve From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 17:13:15 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:13:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD240BE07921B2-AF4-109F5@webmail-m006.sysops.aol.com> i met this guy at a BMTA Conference two years ago. he said he was thinking about getting out of the business. $595,000 is the asking price.....no thanks -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Greg Lunker Hilyer Cc: fot Triumph Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 6:03 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Works fine if you glue the URL together. My answer would be: No Thanks. On Sep 16, 2010, at 3:50 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: > That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >> Subject says it all. You be the judge. >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >> collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 19:06:16 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:06:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] 9 to10pm eastern on CNBC tonight Message-ID: BIO. on Enzo Ferrari Enjoy rob From stlnyc at msn.com Thu Sep 16 20:06:19 2010 From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:06:19 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? In-Reply-To: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> References: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Steve- Stant made a spacer for their radiator pressure testers to use with 1" deep radiator necks. Get with a Stant supplier & have them get you a couple. Drop it in the neck & upgrade to whatever pressure cap you want. Fred Hodgson > From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net > To: fot at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:06:25 -0700 > Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? > > Where can I get a radiator cap for my TR3? It sticks down deep about > 1" into the neck. I see moss carries a 7lb cap but I need more like > 10-15lb for racing. > > Any sources? > > ~Steve > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stlnyc at msn.com From triosan at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 01:09:23 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:09:23 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival Message-ID: Have been in England for 3 months, heads down on a project. Getting out for the first time next wekend to take in the Sunday of Goodwood Revival. Report to follow! Chuck ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Goodwood Revival Date: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 6:50 PM Subject: It's time for Revival To: "triosan at gmail.com" View the web version of this email [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: This Issue] [image: Goodwood Revival] A THIRST FOR FIRSTS [image: Goodwood Revival] LISTEN LIVE ON GOODWOOD.COM [image: Goodwood Revival] MUSIC AND DANCING ON RICHMOND LAWN [image: Goodwood Revival] DOWNLOAD THE REVIVAL APP [image: Goodwood Revival] WHAT'S IN STORE [image: Goodwood Revival] CHOSEN CHARITY [image: Goodwood Revival] BOOK SIGNING [image: Goodwood Revival] JOIN US ON TWITTER AND FACEBOOK [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Forward to a Friend]  Forward to a friend [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: My Goodwood] [image: Goodwood Revival]  Update your profile [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Keep in Touch] [image: Goodwood Revival on Facebook] [image: Goodwood Revival on Twitter] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] There's only another couple of days to wait until the 2010 *Goodwood Revival*. [image: Goodwood Revival] We're just making the final adjustments and finishing touches now, before we open the gates at 07.30am on Friday morning. [image: Goodwood Revival] Tickets are almost sold out now, with just 250 left for Saturday and only 750 tickets remaining for Sunday. So if you haven't already got your Revival tickets call the ticket hotline on 01243 755055 or *book online*NOW! The ticket office will be staying open until 9.00pm this evening, 14th September, to deal with your call, as we expect these last remaining tickets to sell out quickly. [image: Goodwood Revival] We're really excited about the forthcoming weekend, and can't wait to welcome you to the 2010 Revival, which is forecast to be fine with some September sunshine. The Revival promises a weekend of dramatic racing and entertainment that you won't forget in a hurry. [image: Goodwood Revival] See you there... [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] A THIRST FOR FIRSTS[image: Goodwood Revival] We have a number of significant 'firsts' in store for you this weekend, including a current Renault Formula One driver, Vitaly Petrov, who will be racing at the Goodwood Motor Circuit for the very first time; appropriately in a Russian-built GAZ Volga M21 from 1958. He will compete against a number of ex-F1 stars battling hard in a variety of 1950 saloon cars in the St Mary's Trophy race, including Martin Brundle, Jackie Oliver and Desiri Wilson - the first and only woman to win a Formula One race. Near the busy Revival Market is a purpose-built early 1960s-inspired Tesco supermarket, displaying and selling a wide range of groceries from the era, including specially packaged jars of Marmite, as well as period-packaged cans of Barrs Cream Soda and Raspberry, tins of Tate and Lyle Golden Syrup and Fab ice cream lollies. An important evolution in Jaguar's successful motor racing history will compete for the very first time in the UK at Goodwood this weekend. The Jaguar E2A spanned the conquering D-Type of the 1950s and the iconic E-Type of the 1960s. It will race in the Sussex Trophy. A remarkable Sikorsky S-38 aircraft can be seen for the very first time too in mainland Britain, as part of Goodwood's Freddie March Spirit of Aviation concours d'elegance for pre-1966 aircraft. The S-38 is a huge American twin-engined eight-seat amphibious aircraft, sometimes called 'The Explorer's Air Yacht'. It was Sikorsky's first widely produced amphibious flying boat used successfully by Pan American Airways and the U.S Army. The Sikorsky at Goodwood is painted to represent the famous film makers Martin and Osa Johnson's S-38 'Osa's Ark' in which the husband and wife team explored Africa extensively between the wars, making safari movies and writing books. This aircraft has also been seen in the well known Howard Hughes film, 'The Aviator'. Finally, nine ex-RAF World War 2 pilots will return to their Goodwood base (then known as the Battle of Britain base RAF Westhampnett), many for the first time in 70 years as part of a tribute on Revival Sunday to all ex-airmen. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] LISTEN LIVE ON GOODWOOD.COM [image: Goodwood Revival] For all the latest Revival news during the weekend, keep your eye on the Revival website, where we will be posting live updates of all the action on and off the track. You can also tune in to Goodwood Radio on 87.7 FM from 7.00 am until 7.00 pm each day of the event. *Live Radio Stream* We will also be broadcasting a live radio stream online which will be accessible via the *Revival website.*This will be live from 9.00am on Friday 17 September until the close of the 2010 Revival on Sunday evening. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] MUSIC & DANCING ON RICHMOND LAWN [image: Goodwood Revival] Every day during the Revival you can enjoy live music on the Richmond Lawn, with sets from The Goodwood Big Band, Jazz Cafi and Oh-Bop Sh'Bam. Strut your stuff and show off your moves, or if you don't know how you can join in the Dance Workshops, where rosettes will be awarded for different categories including the Oldest Swinger in Town, Divine Duo for the best couple, and Goodwood's Grooviest for the most improved dancer during each workshop. Go on, put on your dancing shoes and show us your finest moves! *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] DOWNLOAD THE REVIVAL APP[image: Goodwood Revival] New for 2010 we have developed an app for your iphone, which will help you find your way around all the wonderful attractions that take place during Revival. It will also include a timetable* of the races and other main events taking place over the weekend, so you can plan your visit. To download the Revival App *click here.* * The race content and timings are subject to change. You can purchase the full Revival Programme on the day or pre-order your copy *online now.* *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] WHAT'S IN STORE [image: Goodwood Revival] Don't forget to take home a little piece of Revival as a souvenir of your visit - choose from our range of specially developed merchandise, that includes overalls, t-shirts, books, DVDs, silk scarves, leather gloves and a whole lot more. *Buy online*or in the Goodwood shops located near Gate 1 and on the Richmond Lawn. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] CHOSEN CHARITY [image: Goodwood Revival] Each year Goodwood works with a team of enthusiastic volunteers to raise money for an appropriate charity or beneficiary. The nominated charity for this week's Revival, is a beautiful and historic local church on the edge of Goodwood Estate - the Boxgrove Priory. The Boxgrove Priory has very strong connections to Goodwood stretching back over 300 years. The Priory has enjoyed the support throughout history of all 10 Dukes of Richmond. Boxgrove Priory is the resting place of Billy Fiske III, the gifted and dashing young American pilot who flew from Goodwood/RAF Westhampnett and nearby Tangmere during World War II. Fiske was a famed member of the USA Bobsledding team and twice won gold at the 1928 and 1932 Olympics. To read more about this wartime hero and Goodwood's tribute to him on Sunday, which includes a salute by The Royal Horse Artillery, please *click here* . *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] BOOK SIGNING [image: Goodwood Revival] We are pleased to welcome back Nick Mason of Pink Floyd fame, who will once again be joining us at the Revival. During the weekend he will also be available to sign copies of his new book, Passion for Speed. Nick's book will be available to purchase in the Goodwood Shops, located beside the main gate and on the Richmond Lawn. The book signings will take place in the shop on the Richmond Lawn at the following times: Friday & Saturday: 11.00am - 12noon Sunday: 10.30am - 11.30am. Nick's book puts you behind the wheel of the greatest ever sports and racing cars. Nick Mason of Pink Floyd has been acquiring and racing cars for nearly 40 years. With test driver Mark Hales, he has given the pick of his cars a no-holds-barred workout at Silverstone, Donington and Anglesey to find out how they compare under pressure. Feel the force of a Le Mans Porsche. Relish the challenge of a 1920s Bugatti. Savour the elegant performance of the Ferrari 250 GTO. With specially commissioned photographs of every car, and even a CD unleashing the power and glory of their engine sounds, "Passion For Speed" is the next best thing to being in the driving seat. RRP: #25.00 *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival on Twitter] [image: Goodwood Revival on Facebook] JOIN US ON TWITTER AND FACEBOOK [image: Goodwood Revival] We have recently launched our Facebook and Twitter pages. Sign up now for lots of exciting news and views about this year's Revival, and for your chance to win some fantastic prizes over the next few weeks. *Follow us on Twitter*. *Follow us on Facebook*. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] Goodwood Revival Goodwood Road Racing Company, Goodwood Motor Circuit, Goodwood, Chichester, West Sussex PO18 0PH T: +44 (0)1243 755055  F: +44 (0)1243 755058 Visit the Goodwood website This email was sent to triosan at gmail.com You can instantly unsubscribe from these emails by clicking here. [image: Vintage at Goodwood] -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From rjl at gt-classics.com Thu Sep 16 20:46:14 2010 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (R. John Lye) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:46:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> Wow, "Triumphs Only" - that name brings back some memories. I had no idea that he was still around. John At 06:37 PM 9/16/2010, you wrote: >Subject says it all. You be the judge. >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com Thanks, R. John Lye rjl6n at cstone.net From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 21:25:36 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 03:25:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> References: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> Message-ID: I only have $400K sittin' around. Dang! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "R. John Lye" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:46:14 To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; Subject: Re: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Wow, "Triumphs Only" - that name brings back some memories. I had no idea that he was still around. John At 06:37 PM 9/16/2010, you wrote: >Subject says it all. You be the judge. >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com Thanks, R. John Lye rjl6n at cstone.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com From mike.mehl at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 21:42:39 2010 From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:42:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <584721.89351.qm@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have cleaned mine out (three weeks ago) and unfortunatly have to do it again. easy to do. Contact me off line for the details. Mike Mehl -62 TR4 ________________________________ From: Don Marshall To: FOT Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 9:24:02 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something that can normally be done here at home? -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM To: Mike Munson Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 23:26:40 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 00:26:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryv ille.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100917052602.0C9F218764F@autox.team.net> Jack did that (cam anyway), although I've not done that on the Larry cam I'm running. Certainly didn't seem to hurt anything. - Tony D At 04:20 PM 9/16/2010, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > >Jim G >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 23:30:54 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 00:30:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> Well, that's slightly less than $6000 per hulk - what a steal... Hah. - Tony At 05:50 PM 9/16/2010, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote: >That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or >search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >>Subject says it all. You be the judge. >>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >>collection-100-cars-/160481458567? pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >>Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>TR4 #314 >>Albuquerque NM From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Sep 17 08:16:48 2010 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 07:16:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival References: Message-ID: Chuck, don't forget the ' period correct clothing'. Have fun! Charly Mitchel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" To: "Friends" Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:09 AM Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival > Have been in England for 3 months, heads down on a project. Getting out > for > the first time next wekend to take in the Sunday of Goodwood Revival. > Report to follow! > Chuck > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Goodwood Revival > Date: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 6:50 PM > Subject: It's time for Revival > To: "triosan at gmail.com" From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 17 08:19:43 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:19:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: On Fri, 17 Sep 2010, Tony Drews wrote: > Well, that's slightly less than $6000 per hulk - what a steal... Hah. You aslo get the "brand", of course. What's that worth. Oh, nevermind. :-) > - Tony rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tpettenati at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 10:02:36 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:02:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Report - SCCA Vintage Thuderhill Sept. 11 & 12 Message-ID: <846490.24433.qm@web180305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> This was our first real race weekend since buying the car back in Feb. I'd done an auto-X and my wife ran a CSRG test day, but we were now ready to take it up a notch. We were a bit hesitant at first since SCCA vintage has a bit of a crash & bash reputation compared to the other vintage groups in our area. We spoke with the Vintage Chief who assured us the small bore group were a clean and safe bunch to run with. My wife realized she needed one more SCCA event to complete her comp license requirements, so it was now or never. B Weather was great all weekend and the car ran without issue. Small bore was suppose to be 18 cars, but due to the lack of entries they combined the 2.5L TA group in with group 1. So it would be 25 cars at most. Due to a bit more group shuffling we ended up with three run groups instead of 5. Maybe not so good for SCCA but great for us - lots of track time and a very relaxed schedule with a practice, qualify and race each day. Results were 14th out of 20 on Saturday and 15th of 16 on Sunday. Her lap times kept getting better as she gained confidence and familiarity with the car, and by the end of the weekend was faster than she had ever been in a Spec Miata. B Photos can be found at http://cwk-photo.appspot.com/start#SFR-20100912 B There were two other Triumphs in our group. The finely prepped Spitfire #43 of Tom Turner's - last spotted at the Monterey Reunion, and Scott A'Dair's very nice TR-250 #55. B Next event - CSRG Season Finale, Oct. 29 - 31. B Cheers, Tim Pettenati Spitfire #44 c From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Sep 17 13:43:16 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:43:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity References: Message-ID: <1328930F63034AF78EB48BB5B08AB736@rocky> Yep. Pretty easy, actually (Hey, if *I* -- with my mechanical ineptitude -- can do it....) Remove from car. release air pressure from back. Open valve, pour out oil Unscrew the front end (the oil end) Clean it out. Push the piston to the back, reassemble. Refill with fresh oil, close valve. Repressurize the back (air) end. Reinstall in car. --Rocky ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Marshall" To: "'FOT'" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:24 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with > bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bill Babcock > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM > To: Mike Munson > Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity > > I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more > than > enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in > the > TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote > gauge > anyway. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Sep 17 13:53:49 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:53:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: No, it was full-tilt-boogie on the track each time. But back then the bearings were usually "done" even on the good cylinders. The wear was obvious (although each blown engine was a con-rod bolt failure) Today they come out looking like near-new. Some have said that there should be enough oil on startup that it's okay. Maybe on startup for the afternoon after you've run in practice that morning, but how about the startup after it's been sitting silent in your garage for five weeks? Try this: pour oil on something and then let it sit for five weeks and see how much is left. Yeah, I thought so. Look at it this way: An Accusump really doesn't cost that much, and with reasonable care it'll last forever (Mine's 30 years old now). And you cannot argue that having oil pressure before startup isn't a good thing. How much difference it makes, that you might argue -- but it doesn't hurt anything and it could help. I've never regretted it. --Rocky ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:30 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump >> That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and >> another in 1980. > > At startup? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Fri Sep 17 15:59:33 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:59:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 From seacubeco at aol.com Fri Sep 17 17:16:06 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 19:16:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 References: <3F928365-B399-4FEF-81B6-D6AFFB6EA8BA@comcast.net> Message-ID: Amici Facebook Badge Photo Above is the link to the Facebook image of the artwork proof that will become the BADGE! If you can't get the link to work please email me and I will send you the picture. Price is still only $30 which includes EVERYTHING. Deadline is November 1st. Still plenty of time to order. There are 46 Badges sold. That means that theses badges will be made and delivered. Payment is either PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361). Chris From dave at microworks.net Fri Sep 17 17:30:43 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 16:30:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 In-Reply-To: <2E2B7825410D4144A598429BC40F192B@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <3F928365-B399-4FEF-81B6-D6AFFB6EA8BA@comcast.net> <2E2B7825410D4144A598429BC40F192B@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF0351DE@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Just looked at the image over on FB. It looks awesome. I'll be ordering one for sure! -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of christopher bock Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:21 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 Amici Facebook Badge Photo Above is the link to the Facebook image of the artwork proof that will become the BADGE! If you can't get the link to work please email me and I will send you the picture. Price is still only $30 which includes EVERYTHING. Deadline is November 1st. Still plenty of time to order. There are 46 Badges sold. That means that theses badges will be made and delivered. Payment is either PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361). From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Sep 17 17:42:48 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 17:42:48 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Message-ID: <39D774F7-A0D5-4237-9CC2-C8608F16EB0D@comcast.net> So then is the stock crank of the same material? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 17, 2010, at 3:59 PM, "Greg Solow" wrote: > Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding > will not give any benificial results. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Greg Solow > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: "fot" > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM > Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > > >> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? >> >> >> >> Jim G >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com >> >> > > > --- > --- > --- > --- > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: > 09/16/10 06:34:00 From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 17 20:28:54 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:28:54 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? = From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 17 20:42:59 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:42:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER Message-ID: <8CD24F25756472C-1994-6B89@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> Looking for an ACCUSUMP Looking for good HEADER Thanks! From seacubeco at aol.com Fri Sep 17 21:04:20 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 23:04:20 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge link Message-ID: FOT BADGE I hope this works... Pics will be sent to those who wanted them Sorry Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 17 21:09:19 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 23:09:19 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge link In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php? pid=31602818&o=all&op=1&view=all&subj=124727640888719&id=1398092718 cut and paste if yo can...... I am getting fed up with this...... chris On Sep 17, 2010, at 11:04 PM, christopher bock wrote: > FOT BADGE From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 17 21:38:21 2010 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 20:38:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <305091.48839.qm@web81707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I need a TR4A frame moved from Texas to the Midwest. Dennis I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? = _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 02:39:32 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:39:32 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Message-ID: <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> I not agree with that. Steel get its strength from carbon build into the iron structure and these carbon atoms do make the standard steel harder, especially if the steel is heat treated. Cast iron has most of the carbon between the iron grains, so the strength is not high. To enforce more surface strength the nitride atoms enter to the iron grains and make them harder like with the steel and so it should be a benefit to the whole cam. The cam I got from Larry is still in the chilled cast condition without nitride treatment, but the lifters are nitrite hardened and they are cast iron too. Seems to work fine. All my other cams were nitride hardened and they lasted too....after I grinded the lifters dead flat. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Solow Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 00:00 An: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From Gt6steve at aol.com Sat Sep 18 08:34:43 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:34:43 EDT Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> There was some talk of moving a GT6 from Las Vegas to St. Louis a while back... From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Sep 18 08:44:29 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:44:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C94D04D.5030709@charter.net> I may have a TR6 frame to move from Apache Junction, AZ (north of Phoenix) to the midwest. I need to see if it's still available. Thanks Glenn Franco On 9/17/2010 10:28 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. > > This may be in October....not scheduled yet. > > Anyone need something moved from west to east? > > > > > = > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Sep 18 09:06:15 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 08:06:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] funky oil Message-ID: <10624012A3E34BB3AB39368E2331FF8C@Pendys> Family, the last two times i have had the oil pan off for bearing inspection, the bottom , say 1/2 to 1 pint , of oil seems to be more of a slurry, like syrup instead of oil. The first time i thought the residue was the remnants of the rebuild,ie assembly lube, break-in wear and so on. I have removed all bearing caps both times looking for anything unusual and i am getting good wear patterns. The second removeval did not seem to yield as much slurry as the first time. The engine is very fresh with virtually no hours on it. I have Valvoline VR1 20-50 this time in it with a bottle of comp cams zdddp. Normal or should i start freaking- out. Any input ??.......Thanks in advance......Mark Pendy From BillDentin at aol.com Sat Sep 18 09:07:11 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:07:11 EDT Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> In a message dated 09/17/2010 9:30:42 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. > > This may be in October....not scheduled yet. > > Anyone need something moved from west to east? > > Joe... Why don't you hold off. Probably someone from the midwest will be buying the California TRIUMPH stash on ebay, and you'll need to make a bunch of trips to get it all back here. Bill (Damdinger) From REK46 at aol.com Sat Sep 18 09:24:14 2010 From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:24:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] funky oil Message-ID: <15caf7.7d00a49c.39c6339e@aol.com> I think the zddp zinc additive is heavier and wud drop to bottom when not hot and being used..but i'm not an oil chemist In a message dated 9/18/2010 11:06:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mpendy at dishmail.net writes: Family, the last two times i have had the oil pan off for bearing inspection, the bottom , say 1/2 to 1 pint , of oil seems to be more of a slurry, like syrup instead of oil. The first time i thought the residue was the remnants of the rebuild,ie assembly lube, break-in wear and so on. I have removed all bearing caps both times looking for anything unusual and i am getting good wear patterns. The second removeval did not seem to yield as much slurry as the first time. The engine is very fresh with virtually no hours on it. I have Valvoline VR1 20-50 this time in it with a bottle of comp cams zdddp. Normal or should i start freaking- out. Any input ??.......Thanks in advance......Mark Pendy _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 18 10:09:58 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:09:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER References: <8CD24F25756472C-1994-6B89@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <03e901cb574b$f28e0af0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Jeg's has a 3 quart one for sale for about $200, including mounting brackets. And valve and gauge. Made by Moroso. JEGS.com, I think. 800 345-4545. No financial interest. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER > Looking for an ACCUSUMP > > Looking for good HEADER > > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 18 10:11:51 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:11:51 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Watkins Glen race report Message-ID: <03f601cb574c$351dd670$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Adams To: william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 6:46 PM Subject: Watkins Glen race report Bill, I'm not longer on the list, but you can forward this to it if you want. Sorry to hear about your driveline troubles. Dick's TR4 had a good showing. Rain throughout the weekend and a large 52 car field made for tough driving conditions. Saturday afternoon Qualifying race. Started 8th oa and picked up 3 spots right away. A 3.0L Alfa 3000CM started on pole and motored off. 2nd through 7th consisted of Denny Wilson's Super 7 , Vic Skirmants' Porsche 356, Mike Besic's Alfa Duetto, Dick Stockton's Triumph TR4, Bob Leitzinger's Datsun 510, Ceasar Cone's Alfa Duetto, in that order. 2nd through 7th stayed together for the first 4 laps and ran away from the rest of the field. They ran as a group until they hit traffic, and then spread out while they worked through lapped cars. The TR4 and Datsun ran nose to tail, swapping positions while they lapped 19 cars. A lapped car balked the TR4 at the exit of T9 which allowed the 510 to make a run in T10. The checkered came out one turn later. Finished 6th of 52 and turned a 2.21.0. Results here http://www.mylaps.com/results/showrun.jsp?id=1690447 Sunday was rain, and their race was at 5pm. With a 6hour ride home, no one felt like sticking around and most of our competitors packed it up and went home. Bob From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 18 10:14:56 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:14:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> References: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2563C51EA8A5-1988-E3EA@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> I already bought that stuff. I am going to move out there and live in one of the TRIUMPHS -----Original Message----- From: BillDentin at aol.com To: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 10:07 am Subject: Re: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In a message dated 09/17/2010 9:30:42 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? Joe... Why don't you hold off. Probably someone from the midwest will be buying the California TRIUMPH stash on ebay, and you'll need to make a bunch of trips to get it all back here. Bill (Damdinger) From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 18 10:17:40 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:17:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> References: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD256426CC9E0E-1988-E45D@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> That would be close to ideal....anymore info out there. -----Original Message----- From: Gt6steve at aol.com To: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 9:34 am Subject: Re: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST There was some talk of moving a GT6 from Las Vegas to St. Louis a while back... _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From Gt6steve at aol.com Sat Sep 18 10:33:25 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:33:25 EDT Subject: [Fot] Andy Stark Message-ID: <1295.4d746cf0.39c643d5@aol.com> Andy, give me a shout. I've lost all of my contacts in a computer crash....Steve From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 11:28:22 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:28:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank improving # 2 main Message-ID: <20100918172740.107C718763F@autox.team.net> FoT I have heard the oil passage in the # 2 main journal can be drilled out for better flow and re-shaping the hole to better apply oil to the bearing. I'm preparing a new crank and using Chris's new seal as well as shot peening, cryo treatment and nitriding. I would like to improve oil flow to the center main if possible. Any information about drilling, re-shaping or just outright crank improvement would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Sat Sep 18 12:37:06 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:37:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? Scott From jerrybarr at charter.net Sat Sep 18 12:50:53 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:50:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <7C6416A6-49D3-4983-8B9F-768421D911A2@charter.net> OMG do not cut that off! That will cause all the horse power to flow back behind the rear seal and run out on the track allowing it to be syphoned up by those pesky Miatas. On Sep 18, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barr, Scott wrote: > There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. > > Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Sat Sep 18 12:53:46 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:53:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> We're safe, as our Spitfire produces no horsepower. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Barr To: Barr, Scott Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat Sep 18 13:50:53 2010 Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab OMG do not cut that off! That will cause all the horse power to flow back behind the rear seal and run out on the track allowing it to be syphoned up by those pesky Miatas. On Sep 18, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barr, Scott wrote: > There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. > > Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 13:42:39 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:42:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 14:19:39 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:19:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> Message-ID: <001501cb576e$d342f1b0$79c8d510$@com> Unfortunately Redline is not sold in Germany. But thanks....the technical description is very similar to the plastilube grease. How often to change bearings? Mine did last several years now. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Barry Munson [mailto:barry at penybryn.ca] Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 22:13 An: 'MadMarx' Betreff: RE: [Fot] Hub grease Chris - Take a look at Redline CV-2 fully synthetic grease. I used this product for the first time this year during the Topeka (Heartland) Kastner Cup event where the ambient temperature was 45C and the track well over 50. Heartland is a 2.5 mile track but is basically an up and down point and squirt track which is very demanding on brakes. This is background to the following assessment of CV-2 - tremendous heat was generated at the front axle which was hard to deal with because of the high ambient temperature and the layout of the track - the grease showed absolutely no degradation when the wheel bearings were checked after the event. Barry. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx Sent: September-18-10 1:43 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/barry at penybryn.ca From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Sep 19 02:54:03 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:54:03 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> Message-ID: <000301cb57d8$37b6cb30$a7246190$@com> Thanks for all the input on grease types. Any suggestions how many grease I should fill into the hub space? Cheers Chris From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sun Sep 19 09:45:39 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:45:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Piloti Shoes Message-ID: FoT, I have a pair of black Piloti driving style shoes (for street use) size 9.5 available if anyone is interested. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 19 12:29:38 2010 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 11:29:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Randy Williams Message-ID: <399746.36629.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Randy - would you contact me off list. Thanks Dennis DeLap From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 19 13:41:04 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:41:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> Message-ID: <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Just FYI, Lunati in MS will Plasma Nitride your cams, cranks and what-not. Just had them do my TR6 crank last week. ________________________________ From: MadMarx To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 18, 2010 3:39:32 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams I not agree with that. Steel get its strength from carbon build into the iron structure and these carbon atoms do make the standard steel harder, especially if the steel is heat treated. Cast iron has most of the carbon between the iron grains, so the strength is not high. To enforce more surface strength the nitride atoms enter to the iron grains and make them harder like with the steel and so it should be a benefit to the whole cam. The cam I got from Larry is still in the chilled cast condition without nitride treatment, but the lifters are nitrite hardened and they are cast iron too. Seems to work fine. All my other cams were nitride hardened and they lasted too....after I grinded the lifters dead flat. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Solow Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 00:00 An: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/oldspeed72 at yahoo.com From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Sun Sep 19 13:47:59 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <39D774F7-A0D5-4237-9CC2-C8608F16EB0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <024366B4C001417BA7AA60CB7DC9F9F2@TER2> No, the stock crank is a steel forging. Nitriding the crank properly gives VERY benificial results i9n both wear resistance and resistance to cracking. . Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gray" To: "Greg Solow" Cc: "fot" Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > So then is the stock crank of the same material? > > Jim g > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 17, 2010, at 3:59 PM, "Greg Solow" > wrote: > >> Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding >> will not give any benificial results. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Greg Solow >> ----- Original Message ----- From: >> To: "fot" >> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM >> Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams >> >> >>> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? >>> >>> >>> >>> Jim G >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com >>> >>> >> >> >> --- >> --- >> --- >> --- >> -------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: >> 09/16/10 06:34:00 >> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3141 - Release Date: 09/17/10 12:24:00 From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sun Sep 19 14:01:48 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:01:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C966C2C.5040007@greenheart.com> Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild comes along. What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? --Justin From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Sun Sep 19 14:23:17 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD @TER2><000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com><655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4C966C2C.5040007@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <77BBB7E94CEC4D1D8E2189CCC3A2212B@TER2> The hardchrome gives a very hard and durable surface to the crank journals. It does not add any strength or resistance to cracking, as does Nitriding. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop > that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground > undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. > I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank > and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild > comes along. > > What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? > > --Justin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3145 - Release Date: 09/19/10 06:34:00 From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 20 01:37:39 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 00:37:39 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Sovren Fall Finale In-Reply-To: <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> Lightly attended, intermittently rainy, but lots of fun and good weekend for Triumphs. Jeff Quick won one of his races and looked great in all of them, John James nearly earned a second but wound up third, and also performed well all weekend. From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 20 01:45:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 00:45:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Sovren Fall Finale In-Reply-To: <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> Message-ID: <9D8019E0-49CD-4F1A-83A6-8C2506F8AEA2@bnj.com> Hmm, the second paragraph got lopped off, that's happened a few times lately. I'll try to reconstruct it: Peyote performed incredibly well all weekend. Broke my personal lap record with a 1:37:something. I consistently feel that my driving is a bit off this year, but the car keeps upping the ante. I may not be remembering correctly, but I think I have broken my lap records at every every track this year. What a great car. At the risk of jinxing things, it's performed almost perfectly, without so much as a hiccup all year. Kudos to Tony Garmey and his crew. On Sep 20, 2010, at 12:37 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Lightly attended, intermittently rainy, but lots of fun and good weekend for > Triumphs. Jeff Quick won one of his races and looked great in all of them, > John James nearly earned a second but wound up third, and also performed well > all weekend. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 20 19:48:33 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 01:48:33 GMT Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Message-ID: <20100920.214833.28491.1@webmail02.dca.untd.com> About 10 years ago on the false grid at New Hampshire a Volvo P1800 went to start and the engine would not crank - it was seized. Turned out that the chrome had flaked off the crank and jammed up in the bearing journals. No idea where the hard chrome was done, but the car and driver were from eastern PA Joe(B). ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Greg Solow" To: "Justin Wagner" , Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:23:17 -0700 The hardchrome gives a very hard and durable surface to the crank journals. It does not add any strength or resistance to cracking, as does Nitriding. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop > that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground > undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. > I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank > and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild > comes along. > > What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? > > --Justin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3145 - Release Date: 09/19/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c980f41c0aa4c62aa3st03duc From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 20 20:45:19 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 02:45:19 GMT Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Message-ID: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> I have been using Mobil 1 grease. I have used Redline CV-2 too, but have found the Mobil 1 to work just as well and it is easier to find. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "MadMarx" To: Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:42:39 +0200 Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c981c5f3c9facae15bst01duc From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Tue Sep 21 09:25:45 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow From tedtsimx at bright.net Tue Sep 21 10:08:39 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:08:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] looking for TR3/TR4 con rods Message-ID: <4C98D887.1000709@bright.net> Hello list. We have a customer looking for a set of used after market connecting rods - Pauter, Carillo, etc fora TR3 or TR4. We will magnaflux, straighten, recon, etc but need a set to start with. Anyone who has a set for sale or knowsof a set, please let me know.Thanks,Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From s.janzen at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 10:50:22 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:50:22 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> I looked up Red Line vs the Shell Darina EP. Red Line has a much higher dropping point (basically the temp at which the stuff turns to liquid) - 900 degrees F vs 500. The load wear index (measurement of load bearing capacity relative to wear of the bearing surfaces) is 70 (Red Line) vs 50, with a higher number being superior. My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front hubs get from braking. I hope to report back on this, however, as I have temperature indicating paint on the brake and hub pieces for this weekend's race. It may be that both of these are well within operating range. All the specs are on the Shell and Red Line websites. On Sep 21, 2010, at 11:25 AM, Greg Solow wrote: We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 21 11:11:00 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:11:00 GMT Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Message-ID: <20100921.131100.29336.2@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Back in college we asked one of our engineering professors how much grease was needed in wheel bearings. His answer was "just enough to keep the bearings lubricated". That was not the answer we needed. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Greg Solow" To: "Joe Boruch" , Cc: Subject: Re: [Fot] Hub grease Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:25:45 -0700 We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c98e75f11819cc32b5st01duc From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Tue Sep 21 11:51:27 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:51:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT]. Millville race. Report Message-ID: <923FDBCE-AB46-4989-8B1F-0F509E37075C@aol.com> Amici, I know I asked this before but...... Who is going this weekend? I will be there and will try to say hi Chris From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 21 12:10:56 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:10:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <35ec01cb59b8$572e2e90$058a8bb0$@rr.com> > We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. <> > I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size A quick Google turned up individual 14 oz cartridges for sale (in EP grade 2). http://www.pdblowers.com/pr93-shell-darina-sd-2-grease-tube.php Specs available at http://tinyurl.com/2drxvc9 -- Randall From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 18:34:55 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 00:34:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <271747278.1543671.1285115687814.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello all, Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. I'd appreciate any comments, Dave H. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 21 18:37:41 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:37:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> Now is the time to get it straight and true, and beef up the most stressed sections a little bit before popping the frame onto it. ~Steve On Sep 21, 2010, at 5:34 PM, davehogye wrote: Hello all, Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. I'd appreciate any comments, Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 21 20:03:07 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:03:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From whitedog72 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 21 20:16:27 2010 From: whitedog72 at hotmail.com (f s) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:16:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time Message-ID: Hi All, How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are newly rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a brand that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or 20W50. Way to heavy for street car. Thanks Andy 72 EP GT6 79 spit etc....... From awashatko at wi.rr.com Tue Sep 21 20:45:36 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:45:36 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Frame Measurements Message-ID: <836C686A-5A0F-4BE4-A8BA-050BAC44C184@wi.rr.com> FoT, Pages 428 and 429 of "The Complete Official Triumph TR6 & TR250 1967-1976" manual published by RB Bentley Publishers will give you all the dimensions you need to verify and true your frame. Take the book to Kinko's and have them enlarge the pages 200% for easy reading. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Sep 21 20:46:41 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:46:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] ALLOY ENGINE PLATES - new inventory available interested? otherwise delete. Message-ID: <8CD281785192FB7-15D8-6611@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com> We just ran TR6 and GT6 Rear Engine Plates, as well as the front GT6/TR6 Front Engine Plates. We also released to production the later version of the TR6 engine plate. First time and available no where else TR3/TR4 Alloy Engine Plates are plentiful, too. This would be a good time to get a good FOT deal....just ask. Especially with us building a new engine and supporting two race cars. BTW, THANKS TO BOB KRAMER for shipping a proper block to replace the one subjected to a rod violently cast through the walls in three places. From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 20:49:56 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 02:49:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <539757137.1549725.1285123681524.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1302528209.1549822.1285123796292.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Greg, I stopped by a friends body shop today and it just so happens that he mentioned the possibility of that "urban myth". He said some cars were set that way from the factory. He also said that modern specification have a 10mm tolerance side to side, front to back and diagonally after straightening is performed. My frame otherwise looks straight. There are no signs of any obvious bends or kinks that might suggest being bent from an impact of some sort. There was, as I said, some badly bent wheels on the car, and the lower front edge of the main frame rails had some pretty good curb rash. It seems to me that, a hard curb impact could bend a rail upward a bit, as well as wheel. The problem with trying to address this issue on a frame machine is that it seems to me as though the spring tower and lower pin would have to be twisted forward and the frame rail pulled down. This does not seem reasonable. I am curious as to what others may have encountered through the years with Triumphs and their frames. Are there any commonalities? The factory manual shows measuring points from all angles but has no info regarding specifications and + or - tolerances. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer" To: "davehogye" Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 7:03:07 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Tue Sep 21 21:27:08 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:27:08 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't believe ZDDP is just for break in, rather the lack of it at break in hastens the damage that occurs to flat tappet cams on engines run without it. I use Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil, the kind they sell at all the major parts stores and it has ZDDP in it. Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of f s Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:16 PM To: triumph friends Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time Hi All, How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are newly rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a brand that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or 20W50. Way to heavy for street car. Thanks Andy 72 EP GT6 79 spit etc....... _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer at rdoequipment.com From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 21 22:12:43 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:12:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> > My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front > hubs get from braking. > I did a temp profile on Killer's brakes a number of years back when we were racing at Wendover. As I recall the caliper was about 800 - 850 degrees F, the outer portion of the disk around 900. If I recall correctly the hub and bearing area was around 450 - 500. When I start racing again I promise to actually write down this sort of stuff. And based on the few times I checked with my little infrared meter the concrete never got more than 50 - 60 degrees above air temp when it was in full sun. mjb. From mpendy at dishmail.net Tue Sep 21 22:35:52 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:35:52 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time References: Message-ID: <660AF262EB2C4EAB90B5D7B0B50E03FD@Pendys> Look closely at the 15-40 Delo 400, plenty of the zddp and it's not just for diesels. Mark P ----- Original Message ----- From: "f s" To: "triumph friends" Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 7:16 PM Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time > Hi All, > How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are > newly > rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil > change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a > brand > that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or > 20W50. > Way to heavy for street car. > Thanks > Andy > > 72 EP GT6 > > 79 spit etc....... > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Tue Sep 21 23:19:13 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:19:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time References: Message-ID: <8CCA58AB2B404F159B884F68D0C5B00F@your89d26e0447> Chevron Delo 15w-40 motor oil has good levels of ZDDP. We use it in many street cars here in California. As long as the weather temperatures are above 50 deg. F. it should work well. Greg Solow From jibjib at att.net Tue Sep 21 23:41:39 2010 From: jibjib at att.net (jibjib at att.net) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:41:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time In-Reply-To: <660AF262EB2C4EAB90B5D7B0B50E03FD@Pendys> Message-ID: <126048.2535.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I use the Delo diesel oil in my TR3 and TR8. Costco carries it four gallon jug cases. Jack --- On Tue, 9/21/10, Mark Pendergrass wrote: From: Mark Pendergrass Subject: Re: [Fot] ZDDP break in time To: "f s" , "triumph friends" Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2010, 9:35 PM Look closely at the 15-40 Delo 400, plenty of the zddp and it's not just for diesels. Mark P From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Sep 22 06:34:33 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:34:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803B5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> << Here's a urban myth to run by the group. ... They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads >> Or maybe LHD cars tend to run into curbs more often on the right side of the car than the left? Scott -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:03 PM To: davehogye Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/scott.barr at mccarty-law.com From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 08:03:43 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:03:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> Message-ID: with all the work that goes into a restoration and with the tub off at this time it would be great to get it on to a modern frame machine. The measures are accurate,and you will have peace of mind.Also if you have handling issues having the frame out of the equation will be a big help rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Belfer" To: "davehogye" Cc: "FOT Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 8:37 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? > Now is the time to get it straight and true, and beef up the most > stressed sections a little bit before popping the frame onto it. > > ~Steve > > > On Sep 21, 2010, at 5:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm > about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a > little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the > short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car > did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no > evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels > were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would > be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Sep 22 08:17:11 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:17:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 22 10:27:21 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:27:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> I check the front rotor temps and front bearing temps (measured at the outer edge of the sheet metal hub cap) and the normal range of temperatures is about 350 to 450 for the discs and 150 to 225 on the hub caps. This is with an infrared thermometer. The checks are made as soon as the car gets into the paddock so the brake rotors have had some time to cool. I think the hubs, being a larger mass and not getting as much cooling air, might retain their temperature quite a bit longer. I just use the temps for comparative data to see how things are working. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 11:13 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hub grease > My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front > hubs get from braking. > I did a temp profile on Killer's brakes a number of years back when we were racing at Wendover. As I recall the caliper was about 800 - 850 degrees F, the outer portion of the disk around 900. If I recall correctly the hub and bearing area was around 450 - 500. When I start racing again I promise to actually write down this sort of stuff. And based on the few times I checked with my little infrared meter the concrete never got more than 50 - 60 degrees above air temp when it was in full sun. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 11:05:31 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Wed Sep 22 11:13:01 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:13:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old and probably absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you look up: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html Snipped: Fluid DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Castrol SRF 590 518 Performance Friction 550 284 Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers. Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street. ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars. Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly. Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff! Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point. Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Wed Sep 22 11:24:20 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:24:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: I mention mostly using Castrol LMA; I've also used Wilwood 570 Racing Brake Fluid and it has a wet boiling point about the same as the Castrol stuff. Dry Boiling Point: 573 F Wet Boiling Point: 313 F Live and learn Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kramer, Robert Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:13 PM To: ''Friends of Triumph' Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. From kaskas at cox.net Wed Sep 22 12:07:22 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:07:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: ============= On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 22 12:14:41 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:14:41 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: Fascinating! So as with many a myth, there is some truth. The shim would have been on opposite sides RHD vs. LHD. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 22, 2010, at 12:07 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear > spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left > front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of > people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high > and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in > racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. > ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: > > ============= > On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > >> Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to >> be true as >> I've run into it more than once. >> They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. >> RHD would >> have the corresponding difference on the other side. >> Thoughts? From bownes at seiri.com Wed Sep 22 12:15:33 2010 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:15:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: My 72 GT6 has a shim on top of the L front spring for what I presume is the same purpose. On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:07 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so > that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate > for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars > sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little > shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left > turn tracks. > ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: > > ============= > On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > > > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true > as > > I've run into it more than once. > > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD > would > > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > > Thoughts? > > I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person > can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is > within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of > the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on > the type of driving that you describe to the tech. > > Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ > of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- > 1/8" or less. > > My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and > plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at > how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car > from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of > alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start > stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common > problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner > weights or your attempts to accomodate them. > > Just my humble opiion, of course. > > regards, > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > 2010 NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net > > > > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com From herald948 at aol.com Wed Sep 22 12:39:59 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:39:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: <8CD289CB1F45132-E50-1756@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> With the GT6, and the Herald, that shim atop the LH front spring -- only on LH steering cars -- was primarily to compensate for the fact that both driver and fuel tank would be on the LH side of the car. RH steering versions did not have any shims in front, nor did Spitfires with their "centrally mounted" fuel tanks. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: robert bownes My 72 GT6 has a shim on top of the L front spring for what I presume is the same purpose. From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 13:19:11 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:19:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <132323578.1582882.1285183102875.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Kas, Thanks for chiming in. My car does have 2 shims, each the thickness of a leaf, on top of the right spring. The frame rails have a level read until right about the diagonal spring tower support on the right side. It goes up slightly and measures about 1/4" - 3/8" up at the front end of the rail on the right. The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. FYI, my car was originally sold through Cal Sales in 1960. Perhaps you had something to do about the shims being there. Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kas Kastner" To: "Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer" , "Robert M. Lang" Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 11:07:22 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: ============= On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 22 13:30:10 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:30:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <132323578.1582882.1285183102875.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. Are you sure your rear axle isn't bent? I have experimented with this... John H. From chasgee at aol.com Wed Sep 22 13:39:38 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:39:38 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire/GT6 composite leaf spring Message-ID: <8CD28A50716C95A-C48-4532@webmail-m087.sysops.aol.com> Anyone interested in one of these? I have one but will never use it. Contact me off list and I'll make you a good deal. Chuck Gee From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 13:57:19 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:57:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <2045001877.1584902.1285185314395.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1240684446.1585161.1285185439018.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> All the measurements taken from frame points revealed similar differences; points like the shackles pins and front leaf spring pins. Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Herrera" To: dlhogye at comcast.net, "Kas Kastner" Cc: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:30:10 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? > The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. Are you sure your rear axle isn't bent? I have experimented with this... John H. From fasttrs at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 14:07:44 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 13:07:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with the natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? Mike #28 EP TR6 ________________________________ From: "Kramer, Robert" To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Wed, September 22, 2010 12:13:01 PM Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old and probably absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you look up: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html Snipped: Fluid DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Castrol SRF 590 518 Performance Friction 550 284 Bob Kramer _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 22 15:02:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:02:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003001cb5a99$75c43480$614c9d80$@rr.com> > I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with > the > natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? I proved to my own satisfaction that that was true, back in the 70s. However, new replacement seals for at least the past 30 years or so appear to be compatible with all brake fluids. New fuel pump diaphragms are also compatible with ethanol, while originals (or at least some older replacements) apparently weren't. -- Randall From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 19:51:53 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:51:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] frame info, thanks In-Reply-To: <20144567.1603899.1285206652851.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <744690773.1603958.1285206713990.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks to everyone who replied to my frame questions. Once again the group came through with more than enough information to help me make some informed choices with how to approach this particular issue. I also acquired the correct dimensions and specification from VTR, TR expert, Bill Redinger. Thanks again to my FoT, Dave Hogye From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 22 21:23:34 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:23:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C9AC836.5070708@bradakis.com> toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. From horizonracing at msn.com Wed Sep 22 22:39:43 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony & Annie Garmey) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:39:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps Message-ID: ap 550 for most of my cars & ap600 for the can am cars Randall wrote: >> I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with >> the >> natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? > >I proved to my own satisfaction that that was true, back in the 70s. >However, new replacement seals for at least the past 30 years or so appear >to be compatible with all brake fluids. > >New fuel pump diaphragms are also compatible with ethanol, while originals >(or at least some older replacements) apparently weren't. > >-- Randall >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 23 00:52:24 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:52:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> Message-ID: <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> Shortened version so it made it through. - Tony At 01:36 AM 9/23/2010, Tony Drews wrote: >I just switched to Castrol SRF (from LMA) this year after boiling my >fluid in a race - still did well but had to pump the pedal 5 times >going into most of the corners. Figured the wet boiling point >trumped most of what was out there. As you mentioned, kinda >spendy. As is racing in general... > >- Tony Drews > >At 12:13 PM 9/22/2010, Kramer, Robert wrote: >>With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of >>brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned >>that I need >>a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the >>Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I >>do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. >> >>I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the >>matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet >>boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I >>used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist >>moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I >>have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old >>and probably >>absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you >>look up: >> >>http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html >> >>Snipped: From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Thu Sep 23 05:17:07 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 04:17:07 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps References: Message-ID: <26CE1780BC7246C2A5F17D7056CAA059@your89d26e0447> In our 1800 lbs. Morgan super sport with the standard brake calipers and rotors fitted. We have had very good luck using the Castrol LMA. We have a single tandem master cylinder , Girling brand. We replace the fluid at least every other event, or it the car has been unused for 7 months or more..The brakes aware used very hard. In two race weekends at Laguna Seca, (the track in our immediate area that is hardest on brakes) the outer caliper dust seal with get crisp so it will shatter at the slightest touch. The rubber seal material is obviously not up to the temperature that they reach.The rotor temperature reach 850 degrees. The only time we have ever experience fad caused by boiling fluid was when the fluid had not been replace in two years. After 3 laps of the first practice session, the pedal began to require two or three pumps to get any pressure at the pedal. Flushing the fluid and installing new LMA completely cured the problem. Regards, Greg Solow From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 23 05:19:40 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 07:19:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Rich Kristoff and Robert Jones re BAdges Message-ID: <3797C4F3-61F8-4C81-BB1D-A824756F9D43@aol.com> Your payments have been received Thank you Chris From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 08:42:16 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:42:16 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? Thx Ty #413 ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 09:15:03 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 11:15:03 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <544AE0F6-FC0F-41C1-A86B-E43A6B393489@comcast.net> Pegasus catalog is a good source of temperature data on different brake fluids. I use Motul 600, though they also make a 660 (degrees). On Sep 23, 2010, at 2:52 AM, Tony Drews wrote: Shortened version so it made it through. - Tony At 01:36 AM 9/23/2010, Tony Drews wrote: > I just switched to Castrol SRF (from LMA) this year after boiling my > fluid in a race - still did well but had to pump the pedal 5 times > going into most of the corners. Figured the wet boiling point > trumped most of what was out there. As you mentioned, kinda > spendy. As is racing in general... > > - Tony Drews > > At 12:13 PM 9/22/2010, Kramer, Robert wrote: >> With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the >> question of >> brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned >> that I need >> a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly >> used the >> Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 >> minute races I >> do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. >> >> I found this information on the webpage listed below while >> researching the >> matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. >> The wet >> boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart >> bottle I >> used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't >> resist >> moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my >> shelf that I >> have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old >> and probably >> absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this >> interests you >> look up: >> >> http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html >> >> Snipped: _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 23 09:17:02 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:17:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Does anyone know the stock size for the flywheel bolts for a small crank Spitfire? 3/8-24 x 1 sounds familiar, but my manual doesn't say. Scott B. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 23 10:57:21 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:57:21 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <12278838.1285261041730.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net> A useful piece of info for the TR3/4 crank would be the specs to radius the main and big-end journals. ~Steve -----Original Message----- >From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com >Sent: Sep 23, 2010 7:42 AM >To: Mark J Bradakis , fot-bounces at autox.team.net, fot >Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > >I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. > >Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? > >Thx > >Ty >#413 >------Original Message------ >From: Mark J Bradakis >Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >To: fot >Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank >Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM > >toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >> FoT >> >> I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do >> >> everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then >> >> shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. >> >> >Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once >any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other >treatments. > >mjb. >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > > > > >Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From jaboruch at netzero.com Thu Sep 23 13:04:34 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.com (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 19:04:34 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it. The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 13:18:01 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:18:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> References: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it. The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 23 13:45:27 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:45:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <20100923144200.39F5A18787C@autox.team.net> References: <20100923144200.39F5A18787C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CD296F01753A97-1710-138F@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com> Ty, Post-mortem per Sean: "It appears that the liner split and caused hydraulic lock between piston and head. This broke the rod and the resulting flaying of the rod broke the camshaft and put holes in the block". "The head and the crank survived the failure, with some damage to the rod journal". This is somewhat consistent with two liner failures that Larry Young experienced. Our liners may have been compromised by water in block and a hard freeze after garage door was left open. This also explains why radiator exhibited a bulge in top and bottom tanks, a condition that we reported earlier in the year. "never be beaten by equipment .....or your attention to detail". to paraphrase Kas. Conjecture presented here and willing to listen to other theories. Joe -----Original Message----- From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com To: Mark J Bradakis ; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2010 9:42 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? Thx Ty #413 ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 14:00:08 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:00:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <188313800.851632.1285272008409.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead time. Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag B it. B The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. B You may B find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank B and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. B IMHO B spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. B The billet crank with some Pauter B rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. B My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which B destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. B B Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing B it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the B opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or B manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 23 14:03:19 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:03:19 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.160319.3022.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> It has been at least 5 years since I have bought from them. I think back then it was about $1700. Their contact information (no it is not me) is: contact Joe @ 313-561-7676 or 313-387-6099 with any questions and pricing. Fax 313-5617024 joe at moldexcrankshaft.com From: Scott Janzen To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:18:01 -0400 What is the price on a Moldex these days? ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9bb29acff75cd4cst06duc From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 23 14:05:08 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:05:08 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.160508.3022.1@webmail07.dca.untd.com> Yes, expect 2-3 months, but the first time I bought they happened to have one on the shelf, so i got lucky. The 2nd time it was 2-3 months. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: Scott Janzen Cc: Joe Boruch , 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:00:08 +0000 (UTC) According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead time. Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag B it. B The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. B You may B find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank B and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. B IMHO B spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. B The billet crank with some Pauter B rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. B My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which B destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. B B Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing B it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the B opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or B manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Thu Sep 23 15:52:53 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 16:52:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I don't think he has talked to them in a while. I believe the last price was $2250.00, with less lead time due to the economy. Bob Kramer Volente, TX > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Scott Janzen" > Cc: "Joe Boruch" ; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" > > Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > > >> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead >> time. >> >> Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? From kaskas at cox.net Thu Sep 23 15:59:26 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:59:26 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100923175927.D0IKJ.1008278.imail@fed1rmwml44> You might check with Mordy Dunst. Mordy had several made and might have another. Good pieces. ---- Bob Kramer wrote: ============= Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I don't think he has talked to them in a while. I believe the last price was $2250.00, with less lead time due to the economy. Bob Kramer Volente, TX > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Scott Janzen" > Cc: "Joe Boruch" ; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" > > Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > > >> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead >> time. >> >> Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From cwnfot at gmail.com Thu Sep 23 18:49:42 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:49:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <012e01cb5b82$614b6c00$23e24400$@com> They should be the same, 1300 or 1147 engine, ARP has them but the website doesn't give all the specs. http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Triumph_Parts/t_Fasteners.htm Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner "Reality, it's not what you think." From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 23 19:01:20 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:01:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Pegasus has them - I just needed to confirm the size. They're sold as 1600 Formula Ford flywheel bolts in a set of 6. Thanks! Scott B. ----- Original Message ----- From: Clark W. Nicholls To: Barr, Scott; Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu Sep 23 19:49:42 2010 Subject: RE: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts They should be the same, 1300 or 1147 engine, ARP has them but the website doesn't give all the specs. http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Triumph_Parts/t_Fasteners.htm Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner "Reality, it's not what you think." From billdentin at aol.com Thu Sep 23 19:08:39 2010 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 21:08:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <8CD299C2865A68D-1310-8110@webmail-m096.sysops.aol.com> <<< Pegasus has them - I just needed to confirm the size. They're sold as 1600 ormula Ford flywheel bolts in a set of 6. >>> The BASTARDS! Now they'll sell for 250% more than if they were Spitfire bolts. Bill (Damdinger) From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 23 21:09:59 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:09:59 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Tire pressures Hoosier A30 Message-ID: <8125634.1285297799114.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi does any Spitfire racers have a tire pressure setting cold for a Hoosier A30. We are heading down to HMSAs Coronado event this weekend and have never used these tires. thanks Joe Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 23 22:38:51 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 23:38:51 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Non-car related but way cool Message-ID: <20100924043810.60BE4187682@autox.team.net> They put cameras on the backs of a couple of fast / maneuverable birds. I found this breathtaking. About a 3 min video. http://mediacaffeine.com/perspectives/environmental/put-cameras-on-a-peregrine-falcon-and-a-goshawk-prepare-to-be-amazed/ Makes driving the race car seem pedestrian. - Tony Drews From harmug at us.ibm.com Fri Sep 24 06:58:55 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 08:58:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod Message-ID: Runoff news Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. G. Michael Harmuth race car - 63 Spitfire From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 07:17:37 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (donmarshall at nefcom.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:17:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast Message-ID: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> We can watch the races live starting this morning at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/ According to the schedule, EP starts at 2:30 this afternoon (central time I think). Don -- From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 07:27:01 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:27:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction Message-ID: We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don -- From dave at microworks.net Fri Sep 24 08:18:17 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:18:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: <063721C0069240F489C07FA99E8096CA@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <063721C0069240F489C07FA99E8096CA@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF035256@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Site seems to have crashed -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Marshall Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:28 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 08:29:49 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:29:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF035256@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <486950.42473.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com> I was able to watch the T3/STU race and now they're showing the sighting lap for F500. --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Dave Riddle wrote: From: Dave Riddle Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction To: "FoTTriumph" Date: Friday, September 24, 2010, 9:18 AM Site seems to have crashed -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Marshall Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:28 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From billdentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 10:24:39 2010 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:24:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2A1C1F07E323-2B4-1BA8@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at :30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this fternoon. I am about an hour south and west of ROAD AMERICA. The weather this morning was weepy. Now it is cool (mid 50s) cloudy, and VERY windy. Bill Dentinger From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:05:31 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:05:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Message-ID: <778622.70766.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the connection here in southeast Wisconsin. Ernie From sm1ski at dslextreme.com Fri Sep 24 12:20:36 2010 From: sm1ski at dslextreme.com (sm1ski @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:20:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com From jerrybarr at charter.net Fri Sep 24 12:32:59 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (jerrybarr at charter.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:32:59 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Message-ID: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay ------Original Message------ From: Ernest Husmann Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the connection here in southeast Wisconsin. Ernie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone From riverside at southslope.net Fri Sep 24 12:38:34 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:38:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <002401cb5c17$b1f83cb0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> I'm getting "page error" messages on my computer art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Ernest Husmann" ; ; "FOT" Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 1:32 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby > sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 12:39:05 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:39:05 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: I still have it here, but it won't open on full screen. Sam Halkias is 5th now, under full course caution. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:32:59 -0400, wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby > sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 12:40:59 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Sep 24 12:46:01 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:46:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <25305.4132.qm@smtp102.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Working good in Canada -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: September 24, 2010 2:41 PM To: jerrybarr at charter.net Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 12:48:57 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:48:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: It might be an Internet Explorer problem. I tried it on IE and get error messages, but its working fine on my Opera browser and apparently Foxfire works too. They're back to green with Sam in 5th now. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:40:59 -0400, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby >> sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:50:49 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:50:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <330097.21580.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com> I'm now getting the stream via Firefox. It must be an Explorer issue. Ernie --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Don Marshall wrote: From: Don Marshall Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV To: jerrybarr at charter.net, ""Greg "Lunker" Hilyer"" Cc: "FOT" Date: Friday, September 24, 2010, 1:48 PM It might be an Internet Explorer problem. I tried it on IE and get error messages, but its working fine on my Opera browser and apparently Foxfire works too. They're back to green with Sam in 5th now. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:40:59 -0400, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:47:39 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. Go Sam! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 To: Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com From jaxonracing at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:57:26 2010 From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (jaxonracing at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:57:26 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net><20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> Message-ID: For me as well.... Go sam -----Original Message----- From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; ; Reply-To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. Go Sam! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 To: Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 13:01:22 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:01:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net><20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <604EBA45-360A-4976-8B3F-5DED62D8EA1E@earthlink.net> Spread out with Sam about 12 seconds back in 6th. Miata 1st - RX3 2nd - go Rotary! Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:57 PM, jaxonracing at yahoo.com wrote: > For me as well.... Go sam > -----Original Message----- > From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 > To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; bounces at autox.team.net>; > Reply-To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > > Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. > Go Sam! > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 > To: > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. >> Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ >> jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ >> lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jaxonracing at yahoo.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 13:38:39 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:38:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> <20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <604EBA45-360A-4976-8B3F-5DED62D8EA1E@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Miata 1st, Z car 2nd, RX3 3rd. Lost track of Sam - out of the top 6 but I can't find results. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 2:01 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > wrote: > Spread out with Sam about 12 seconds back in 6th. Miata 1st - RX3 > 2nd - go Rotary! > > > Jon Brakke in a Miata won EP. Back when I was working corners, he > was racing a Yenko Stinger. > > Irv Korey From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 14:19:08 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:19:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> References: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> Message-ID: <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:17 AM, donmarshall at nefcom.net wrote: > We can watch the races live starting this morning at > > http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/ > > According to the schedule, EP starts at 2:30 this afternoon > (central time > I think). Don > -- > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 14:28:29 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 15:28:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: References: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Irv Korey Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast To: Greg Lunker Hilyer On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, > thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. > Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and Scoring: *2:09:51pm* * * *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg Ira, Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 14:30:26 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:30:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <908807.58632.qm@web57615.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Yeah Marshall, Don thanks! Have you any idea the anxiety I went through when I lost the hook up via Explorer? Okay it wasn't really that bad but hopefully I made you feel the slightest bit of remorse. --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:17 AM, donmarshall at nefcom.net wrote: From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 14:41:22 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:41:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <68983.94252.qm@web57608.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping the marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. Enjoy, Ernie From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 14:48:59 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:48:59 EDT Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> In a message dated 09/24/2010 3:41:40 PM Central Daylight Time, ehusmann53 at yahoo.com writes: > Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping > the > marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. > > We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. > Amen to that, and I thought I heard he was on the pole in both races. I'll bet he's running those expensive FF flywheel bolts from Pegasus. Bill (Damdinger) From norlinengineering at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 15:14:47 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (James Norlin) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:14:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast Message-ID: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> Sam drove off at turn 5 and into the paddock around mid race. -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 3:28 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Irv Korey Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast To: Greg Lunker Hilyer On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, > thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. > Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and Scoring: *2:09:51pm* * * *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg Ira, Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net [The entire original message is not included] From awashatko at wi.rr.com Fri Sep 24 15:51:47 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:51:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> References: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> Message-ID: He broke his rear diff. He was running 5th/6th otherwise. Allen On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:14 PM, James Norlin wrote: > Sam drove off at turn 5 and into the paddock around mid race. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Irv Korey > Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 3:28 PM > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Irv Korey > Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast > To: Greg Lunker Hilyer > > > > > On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < > Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > >> Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But >> actually, >> thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. >> Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? >> > > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and > Scoring: > > *2:09:51pm* > * > * > *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg > Ira, > Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > > [The entire original message is not included] > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/awashatko at wi.rr.com > > Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 24 15:54:41 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:54:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kudos In-Reply-To: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> References: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2A4A3A164275-1724-1DE8@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing themselves on the stone. -----Original Message----- From: BillDentin at aol.com To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 3:48 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos In a message dated 09/24/2010 3:41:40 PM Central Daylight Time, ehusmann53 at yahoo.com writes: > Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping > the > marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. > > We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. > Amen to that, and I thought I heard he was on the pole in both races. I'll bet he's running those expensive FF flywheel bolts from Pegasus. Bill (Damdinger) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 16:18:25 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:18:25 EDT Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that > the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The > lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing > themselves on the stone. >>> > > Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. Surly the > vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? But for > sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The deterioration is > actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every spring, racers > in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but at four thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). Bill (Damdinger) From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 17:10:05 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:10:05 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kudos In-Reply-To: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> Message-ID: <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. Maybe it's the accent. Can you translate please Tim? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 17:44:02 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:44:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs and web-tv Message-ID: <7DC9FA28-CCF9-4A93-BAE4-42F9CD7A43D8@earthlink.net> Honestly, the last time I watched so much racing on a screen, Chris Economaki was doing the commentary. How cool to happen to see two guys I actually know - live - racing for National Championships - on a live web-cast - on a track I know... Sometimes I DO like technology. [Jeremy Treadway was 2nd in FF. He's the guy that bought Connie's 510 and made it beautiful in about 3 weeks]. Sorry to hear about your DNF Sam. AND - The only reason I know my way around that track is because Tony Drews let me do it in his car. That is a gift that keeps on giving. Have I said "thanks" lately Tony?! Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 24 19:57:59 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:57:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge up date 9-24-10 Message-ID: <5EE0A64E-BBC7-4E46-A346-25CCCFBC7501@aol.com> Amici Nothing really new to report. 53 badges are paid for so far. Cost is still $30 per badge. These are going to be made, so If you have paid, you will be getting one. Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or Mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361) If you are looking to see what they look like there are two ways. First way. You can ask me to send you the proof art for it. Or..... Second way. There is a pic posted on the FOT FaceBook Page. Thanks Chris Bock From mpendy at dishmail.net Fri Sep 24 22:05:48 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:05:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold Message-ID: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 24 22:28:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 00:28:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America In-Reply-To: <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8CD2A81475066BC-E1C-F041@Webmail-m116.sysops.aol.com> As a masonry contractor, one of Bill's last erections, was a monument to Bob Wismer's stunning S-2000 CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES win with MSCC. It was placed on the pathway heading Turn 5 at Road America. Tony should have shown you this monument so you could play 'biker' on it. -----Original Message----- From: Greg "Lunker" Hilyer To: BillDentin at aol.com Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. Maybe it's the accent. Can you translate please Tim? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/> lunkercars at earthlink.net From riverside at southslope.net Sat Sep 25 08:48:39 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:48:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com><2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> <8CD2A81475066BC-E1C-F041@Webmail-m116.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001001cb5cc0$c11adaf0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Joe, you're makiing it sound like Bill is done dingin'! Say it ain't so!! art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 11:28 PM Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America > As a masonry contractor, one of Bill's last erections, was a monument to > Bob > Wismer's stunning S-2000 CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES win with MSCC. > > It was placed on the pathway heading Turn 5 at Road America. Tony should > have > shown you this monument so you could play 'biker' on > it. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > To: BillDentin at aol.com > Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 6:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos > > > Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking > about. Maybe it's the accent. > Can you translate please Tim? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > >> In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, >> n197tr4 at cs.com writes: >> >> >>> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears >>> that >>> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >>> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been > rubbing >>> themselves on the stone. >>> >>> >>> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly >>> the >>> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But > for >>> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> > deterioration is >>> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, > racers >>> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. >> >> Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at > four >> thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). >> >> >> Bill (Damdinger) >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/> > lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From fpspitfire at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 09:42:57 2010 From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <873211577.402691.1285429377732.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Steve is running the 1500 in the blue car in F-Prod and the 1147 in the red car in H-Prod. Steve has always had is game together.B I wouldn't be surprised to see him with two wins after the two poles aaron ----- Original Message ----- From: "sm1ski @dslextreme.com" To: "George Harmuth" Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:20:36 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. B Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > B Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > B SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > B posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 25 10:18:48 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:18:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: <873211577.402691.1285429377732.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD2AE4785B87D2-1754-26882@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com> interesting guy....paddocked by himself at a remote area of the track....not anywhere near to anything near corner station 3. john reed (GT6) was hanging out on Friday ... all quiet and appeared ready to go. i'll be watching both races.... as you remember he was knocked out early in the race last year by an errant turn of someone else's wheel. -----Original Message----- From: fpspitfire at comcast.net To: sm1ski @dslextreme.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net; George Harmuth Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2010 10:42 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod Steve is running the 1500 in the blue car in F-Prod and the 1147 in the red car in H-Prod. Steve has always had is game together.B I wouldn't be surprised to see him with two wins after the two poles aaron ----- Original Message ----- From: "sm1ski @dslextreme.com" To: "George Harmuth" Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:20:36 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. B Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > B Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > B SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > B posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From dave at microworks.net Sat Sep 25 10:45:21 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:45:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New track in SoCal Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF03525F@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Located out by Palm Springs. It is only 475K for a founders family membership. This includes your entire family for life. But if this is a little steep you could just get the 125K standard membership. Let me know how many you want. lol http://thermal122.memfirstweb.net/Club/Scripts/Home/home.asp From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 25 10:48:25 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 11:48:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold In-Reply-To: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> References: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Message-ID: <20100925164738.7C88518767D@autox.team.net> I assume this is for a TR 3 or 4. It is normal to reinforce the intake manifold between the runner and the flange to prevent it from cracking there. One way to do that is to create a triangular piece of aluminum plate and have it welded to the flange and the top of the runners. - Tony Drews At 11:05 PM 9/24/2010, Mark Pendergrass wrote: >Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 >fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their >headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight >hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have >had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around >from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor >to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 25 10:55:06 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 18:55:06 +0200 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold In-Reply-To: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> References: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Message-ID: <000901cb5cd2$69caff70$3d60fe50$@com> My car does run Webers. I simply did bolt the Webers to the manifold and use shortened Overdrive springs as spacer so that the Webers can move it the engine does start to vibrate. The installation of the carbs is flexible. Maybe that prevent it from breaking? The manifold comes from Triumph Tune. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Mark Pendergrass Gesendet: Samstag, 25. September 2010 06:06 An: friends of triumph Betreff: [Fot] cracked manifold Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Sat Sep 25 14:06:26 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg Lunker Hilyer) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:06:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Steve Sargis H Prod Champion! Message-ID: <7B91792F-0811-4D7A-B98D-1E34B3B3AFDB@earthlink.net> Congratulations to Steve for a brilliant drive. With the win bagged, he continued breaking the track record in the Spit lap after lap. 2:39.0 I think! Lapped two thirds of the field. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 16:45:20 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:45:20 -0600 Subject: [Fot] High Plains Raceway video Message-ID: <20100925224448.88CA2187647@autox.team.net> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2NdtD38v-8 FoT If anybody's interested I just posted some video from High Plains Raceway in Colorado. Now that I have some spare time I will get caught up and post the Kastner Cup footage. Jim g # 102 From mail at myvrl.com Fri Sep 17 07:33:48 2010 From: mail at myvrl.com (The Vintage Racing League) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:33:48 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Fot] The 2010 Goodwood Revival Message-ID: <3889727.16531291284730428998.JavaMail.xncore@z101b25.ningops.com> A message to all members of The Vintage Racing League Once again, Lord March and his wonderful team have assembled the world's bext collection of historic and vintage race cars for the Goodwood Revival. ERA's, Ferrari's, Jaguars, Maserati's, Coopers and the largest assembly of BRM's, recognising the 60th anniversary of the marquee.  This event represents the pinnacle of historic motorsports in the world! Meet Stirling Moss, Nick Mason of Pink Floyd, Derek Bell, Jackie Oliver, Martin Brundel, Brian Redman, Bobby Rahal, Paddins Dowling and many other famous racing drivers as they compete on the historic Goodwood motor racing circuit. Friday is tune, test and grid prepaation day with a full race schedule on Saturday and Sunday, the 18th and 19th of September. Once again, the event has sold out with some 150,000 attendees expected to participate in the event. In addition to fabulous cars and racing, the event incorporates an airshow with hisoric planes to include Spitfires, Hurricanes and various bombers.   John Surtees Motor sport great John Surtees b the only man ever to be crowned world champion on two and four wheels b will be honoured with a special tribute over the three days. bBig Johnb will be reunited with many of the machines he rode or drove in period, from Triumph Tiger 70 motorcycle to the Surtees-Hart TS10 in which he won the Imola Gold Cup towards the end of his competition career. BRM The sixtieth anniversary of British Formula One constructor BRM will also be celebrated with more than 30 examples of the Bourne marque taking to the circuit for a cavalcade in addition to many of the drivers who raced b or in some instances, braved b the cars from 1948 to 1977. Star Drivers and Riders Star names racing this year include legends such as Sir Stirling Moss who will be out in his OSCA for the Madgwick Cup and Le Mans deity Tom Kristensen who will be taming a Ferrari 330LMB in the TT Celebration. Red Bull team principal and former F3000 man Christian Horner will also be driving in this one-hour race, up against the F1 squadbs designer Adrian Newey. Australian ace Wayne Gardner will also be a shoe-in for victory in the ever-popular Barry Sheene Memorial Trophy motorcycle race, the first part of which gets underway tomorrow. Aviation Aviation is a major constituent of the Revival and this year the seventieth anniversary of the Battle of Britain is naturally a key theme, with surviving veterans of the conflict in attendance. Air displays, along with The Freddie March Spirit of Aviation concours, add an extra dimension to the event and are not to be missed. Book now for 2011 - this event is a must for all :-)))) Warmest and happy regards from Goodwood Stephen Page Chairman & CEO The Vintage Racing League Visit The Vintage Racing League at: http://www.myvrl.com/?xg_source=msg_mes_network -------------------- To control which emails you receive on The Vintage Racing League, or to opt-out, go to: http://www.myvrl.com/profiles/profile/emailSettings?xg_source=msg_mes_network From mail at myvrl.com Sat Sep 18 05:36:01 2010 From: mail at myvrl.com (The Vintage Racing League) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:36:01 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Fot] Live from the Goodwood Revival 2010 - Day Two Message-ID: <29133715.25249471284809761307.JavaMail.xncore@z100412.ningops.com> A message to all members of The Vintage Racing League   Pre b62 Formula Juniors Ben Simms took a convincing victory in the Chichester Cup for pre b62 Formula Juniors from early leader, Sir John Chisholm. The latter blasted ahead from pole position aboard his Gemini Mk3A only for Elva man Simms to scythe past on the inside into Woodcote. At quarter-distance into the 20-minute race the order remained static as the safety car was deployed to attend to stricken cars. With racing resuming with ten minutes left to run, Chisholm and Simms resumed their private battle as they streaked ahead of the chasing pack. Simms was last of the late brakers as he fought to keep his twitchy short wheelbase car ahead of the faster Gemini. He held on to the flag to win by 0.4-second with Elva man Chris Drake fishing third some 29.7-second behind them. bHe didnbt make it easy,b said a delighted Simms. bThe safety car bunched us up but it was close right to the end once we began racing again. There was a lot of oil out there which focussed the attention.b   Mark Gillies claims victory aboard Mary Smithbs ERA A-type R3A Mark Gillies claimed Goodwood Trophy honours in crushing fashion aboard Mary Smithbs ERA A-type R3A on Saturday morning. The Detroit-based Briton had a poor start from the all ERA front row, losing out initially to J Mac Hulbert and Paddins Dowling, the latter taking the initiative as they headed through Madgwick towards Fordwater for the first time. Gillies moved up to second through the kink before St Marybs on the following lap, the gap to Dowling remaining static at 1.2-seconds to the end of the fourth lap. Into the fifth tour, Irishman Dowling experienced car trouble and retired shortly thereafter. Matt Grist moved his way up the order in the fastest of the Alfa Romeo Tipo Bs, taking second place with six minutes to go as Hulbert performed a series of heroic saves after oil spilled onto his rear tyres. Up front Gillies was unchallenged and led home Grist by eight seconds from Maserati driver Frank Stipler who jumped Hulbert in the dying stages. Julian Majzub finished fifth aboard his Alfa Romeo 308C. bI have a history of bad starts here,b said the victor later. bPaddins kept me honest in the opening laps and it was a shame that he retired. The carbs fantastic here. Itbs a magic car, a magic circuit and a magic event.b   Celebrating BRM The 2010 Goodwood Revival witnessed a special celebration of 60 years of the BRM marque. More than 30 cars spanning more than three decades of the Bourne squadbs history took to the circuit, ranging from the famous b infamous even b V16 P15 Mk1 to the Collier Collectionbs 1962 Formula One World Championship-winning R578 bOld Faithfulb. Among the many BRM bold boysb in attendance was Richard Attwood, who famously finished a fighting second in the 1968 Monaco Grand Prix on being recalled to the team at very short notice. The Le Mans victor said: bI had a good relationship with BRM during an era when it was doing relatively well. I really admired the effort of the Rubery Owen Group for sticking with it and racing for Great Britain.b   A Magical step back in time The Goodwood Revival really is a magical step back in time, a unique chance to revel in the glamour and allure of motor racing in the romantic time capsule of the golden era of motor racing at one of the worldbs most authentic circuits.   The Revival is the worldbs most popular historic motor race meeting and the only event of its kind to be staged entirely in the nostalgic time capsule of the 1940s, 50s and 60s that relives the glory days of Goodwood Motor Circuit. It is the biggest and best historic motor racing party of the year. The Revival offers visitors the opportunity to leave the bmodern worldb behind and join motor sport luminaries including Sir Stirling Moss, Richard Attwood, John Surtees and Derek Bell in an unabashed celebration of flat-out wheel-to-wheel racing around a classic racetrack, untouched by the modern world. Ticket Sales: Ticket Sales: +44 (0)1243 755055  E: ticket.office at goodwood.com (mailto:ticket.office at goodwood.com)| The Goodwood Estate, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0PX Visit The Vintage Racing League at: http://www.myvrl.com/?xg_source=msg_mes_network -------------------- To control which emails you receive on The Vintage Racing League, or to opt-out, go to: http://www.myvrl.com/profiles/profile/emailSettings?xg_source=msg_mes_network From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 14:44:47 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:44:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Sargis Wins HP Championship in his (other) Spitfire Message-ID: Congratulations to Steve Sargis - again http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=4012. From Billb at bnj.com Sun Sep 26 17:44:18 2010 From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:44:18 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Coronado In-Reply-To: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> Message-ID: <1B1F552A-F0F1-4C01-A6D4-0A1CD503E8A8@bnj.com> Big fun. Finished third against a bunch of listers a tipo 61 and Thor johnsons fine drive in his lotus. Huge crowd, lots to look at. Good event. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 24, 2010, at 3:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From s.janzen at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 18:26:02 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:26:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] NJMP (Millville) VRG Race report, brake failure and corner weighting Message-ID: There were four Triumphs out of about 135 entries at Millville this weekend. Dave Spiwak (TR2) and I (GT6) were in the same group, but did not get to do much racing together as Dave experienced fuel/ electrical(?) troubles all weekend. Dave Miller in his well prepared TR4 was in with the Porsches and some of the other fast stuff, and Kent Bain was running a Spitfire in the small bore group. New Jersey Motorsports Park has two decent nice tracks, and VRG runs a good event with tons of track time. Of note, in addition to this event in the Fall next year, they will be co-sponsoring one in May 2011 with VSCCA. The tracks are on the site of a WWII era air base, and there were vintage warbirds flying in and out all weekend, including this polished aluminum bomber that looked amazing (ok, so I don't know my planes). The Spring 2011 event will combine the races with a major vintage air show, including the Blue Angels (I know, they're not vintage). There's a really nice WWII air museum on the base, put together by all of the pilots and crew that operated out of Millville over the years. Brake failure - I loaded my car right after the last event (a fifteen lap race) without looking at it. Went to roll it out of the trailer and into the garage - decent puddle of tan fluid on the trailer floor in the driver's left engine bay area, and all around the tire. I figured it was oil - hey, it's a British car - forgetting that I'm running Brad Penn, which is green, not brown. Got it in the garage and took a look - no oil leaking from the usual places. Opened up the front master reservoir - bone dry! Don't know if this was going during the race - it had not lost fluid all weekend - or if it just cooked out after the race when the seal gave up. I pulled the caliper and the seals were a little "dry" and cracked on the edges where they bear on the pistons, though the seals were still flexible and intact. Apparently this will now become at least a seasonal rebuild - I don't think I have touched these for three years, other than changing the fluid. Question that I know has come up before - the bellows type dust seals were just crispy and crumbling. Is it worth installing new ones, or can we just run without them? I wonder if part of the reason for the brake failure is related to these - I just put in new pads, and had to push the pistons back into the caliper to do so. When I removed the pistons, the outer portion that sits in the area of the dust seals had black gunk on it - melted seals, which might have damaged the o-rings when the pistons were pushed back in? Corner weighting - I had been complaining of understeer, and was contemplating different springs, anti-roll bars, etc. First I took it to my friendly local shop and we spent a few hours with the scales. The driver's side front wheel was 110 lb over the right, and the cross- weights were off by almost that much. Adjusting the coil-overs and shimming the transverse rear spring on one side got the front in balance and the back within 40 lb (with my butt just in front of the rear axle, I'm surprised it's that close!). The handling difference was dramatic and amazing, especially since most courses are clockwise and all the excess weight was on the outside front. The car is now balanced with mild oversteer easily induced in most circumstances. I am now a big advocate of checking this (and of course the alignment) before you start spending money on parts. From SpiwakD at aol.com Sun Sep 26 18:35:47 2010 From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Message-ID: How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Sep 26 19:31:34 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:31:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100927013053.9176E187645@autox.team.net> You could shim the front spring with the low corner weight, or the one diagonal from the rear with low weight. - Tony At 07:35 PM 9/26/2010, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote: >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 21:20:47 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:20:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100927013053.9176E187645@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20100927032018.EF77718764B@autox.team.net> I hope to have a solution for that by next spring with adjustable spring perches. I have the IRS frame figured out, now I just need to go stare at the live axle frame for a while. Jim G. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 7:32 PM To: SpiwakD at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Corner weights You could shim the front spring with the low corner weight, or the one diagonal from the rear with low weight. - Tony At 07:35 PM 9/26/2010, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote: >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From mpendy at dishmail.net Sun Sep 26 21:43:30 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:43:30 -0700 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold Message-ID: <9FA758862CC14F9EBDCE50E1EFB66105@Pendys> List, got some good input as usual from many. Thanks Dave H. for the great pics. Have time between now and the upcomeing Double header to put the ideas to work. Thanks listers.......Mark Pendy TR4 #65 From sm1ski at dslextreme.com Mon Sep 27 09:38:56 2010 From: sm1ski at dslextreme.com (sm1ski @dslextreme.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:38:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sargis Wins HP Championship in his (other) Spitfire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: does anybody have pictures of the Sargis 1500 spit? My computer screen is kinda small. mike kowalski 1500 FP spit (in baskets) Raton, NM On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 2:44 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > Congratulations to Steve Sargis - again > > http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=4012. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 27 15:52:18 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:52:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Robert Dardano Message-ID: <666D8145-5060-48ED-9456-9155B723D164@aol.com> Your check has arrived. Thank you Chris From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 27 17:19:23 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 23:19:23 GMT Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Message-ID: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower A-arms to lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can also move weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to the light rear corner. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: SpiwakD at aol.com To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4ca126bde0ae61dd29st01duc From whitedog72 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 27 19:35:37 2010 From: whitedog72 at hotmail.com (f s) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:35:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire Message-ID: I have a DCOE 40 on my 79 spitfire. The engine is 9 to 1 compression. Mild cam, ported and relieved head, balanced, very lite rods, flat top pistons, Electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and a vacum retard distributor. It runs ok.... but does not idle well and seems like it has a miss at mid range rpms. 2500 to 3500 rpms. It also wants to run at 20 degrees before top dead center, I would think it would run better and idle smooth at 1000 rpms. But it does not. I have tried several different jet and air correctors and tried several timing settings. Does anyone have experience with DCOE 40 on warmed over Spitfire 1500 engines. Thanks Andy From andre at gt6.ca Mon Sep 27 19:39:52 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 21:39:52 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mont Tremblant Race Weekend Message-ID: The VARAC drivers we're in good form this past weekend at Circuit Mont Tremblant in Quebec Canada. http://www.lecircuit.com/index.cfm?lang=en Myself this was my 2nd race weekend of the year and I was having a blast learning the track and improve my skill set. Race #2 Sunday Morning. http://vimeo.com/15331539 Race #3 Sunday Afternoon. http://vimeo.com/15331903 Hope you enjoy the clips. Cheers. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 27 19:42:07 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:42:07 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100928014207.PEWU23084.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> It might have something to do with the uneven runner lengths that are mandatory with running a single DCOE on any Spitfire engine that has an 8-port head. At idle you can have one of two things: 1: the inside two cylinders running rich compared to the outside two 2. The outside two cylinders running lean compared to the inside two Neither of those options are particularly good. Two DCOEs will have a much more balanced runner arrangement since you have 4 barrels going into 4 inlets on the head. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of f s Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 6:36 PM To: triumph friends Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire I have a DCOE 40 on my 79 spitfire. The engine is 9 to 1 compression. Mild cam, ported and relieved head, balanced, very lite rods, flat top pistons, Electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and a vacum retard distributor. It runs ok.... but does not idle well and seems like it has a miss at mid range rpms. 2500 to 3500 rpms. It also wants to run at 20 degrees before top dead center, I would think it would run better and idle smooth at 1000 rpms. But it does not. I have tried several different jet and air correctors and tried several timing settings. Does anyone have experience with DCOE 40 on warmed over Spitfire 1500 engines. Thanks Andy _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Sep 27 23:33:29 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 00:33:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> References: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> Also, we can use shims between the rear axle and the spring as Kas described for the original cars. - Tony At 06:19 PM 9/27/2010, Joe Boruch wrote: >Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower A-arms to >lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can also move >weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to the light >rear corner. Joe(B) > >---------- Original Message ---------- >From: SpiwakD at aol.com >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Corner weights >Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT > >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net From s.janzen at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 07:03:10 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:03:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> References: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I shimmed one side of the transverse leaf spring on the GT6 where it bolts on top of the differential. Used cut-down stainless steel backing shims from disc brakes. Worked great and relatively painless to do. Shimming the front coil springs will be a bit more trouble, but the results were well worth the effort on my car. On Sep 28, 2010, at 1:33 AM, Tony Drews wrote: Also, we can use shims between the rear axle and the spring as Kas described for the original cars. - Tony At 06:19 PM 9/27/2010, Joe Boruch wrote: > Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower > A-arms to > lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can > also move > weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to > the light > rear corner. Joe(B) > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: SpiwakD at aol.com > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Corner weights > Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT > > How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From jason at multivintage.com Tue Sep 28 09:52:30 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:52:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Mont Tremblant Race Weekend In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great footage, Nice job. What an awesome track. I love race tracks in the autumn glow. Way to leave that GT6 in the dust. Thanks for the footage. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:39 PM, Andre Rousseau wrote: > The VARAC drivers we're in good form this past weekend at Circuit Mont > Tremblant in Quebec Canada. > > http://www.lecircuit.com/index.cfm?lang=en > > Myself this was my 2nd race weekend of the year and I was having a > blast learning the track and improve my skill set. > > Race #2 Sunday Morning. > http://vimeo.com/15331539 > > Race #3 Sunday Afternoon. > http://vimeo.com/15331903 > > Hope you enjoy the clips. > > Cheers. > > A. > > -- > Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca > http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ > '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ > #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ > Ottawa, ON, Canada > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 10:45:43 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:45:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results Message-ID: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have seen others reporting on their Triumph race weekends, so as team manager for RiffRAF Racing (ChumpCar World Series, '75 TR6), I will also. To put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the following: * distributor * alternator (twice) * fan belt * cap and wires (twice) * rotor button (twice) * front carb jet and reset float * fuel pump * exhaust system central mount On the bright side, we did get to race at Sebring, and would have been somewhat competitive had we been able to keep the car running. So much for thinking we had it prepped adequately. Next race we will do better. MyLaps results here: http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=599902 Pictures of event (pretty easy to find us, we're the only Triumph, look for the camo #0) here: http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=599902 (pics 42-51, 216-217, 247---217 is really cool!) Finished 24th out of 34 cars, but were one of only 15 that took the checkered flag. As a side note...what is the group's opinion on electric fuel pumps vs. mechanical in racing applications. Some on our team are concerned about electric pump reliability while others don't feel the mechanical pump is capable of sustained high RPM operation for hours at a time (I personally witnessed fuel boiling (!) in the mechanical fuel pump we are using and we melted the nylon filter screen in the aftermarket mechanical pump we had). Interested in the group's thoughts. Thanks, Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 28 10:56:37 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:56:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results In-Reply-To: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > To > put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag > fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the > following: > * distributor > * alternator (twice) > * fan belt > * cap and wires > (twice) > * rotor button (twice) > * front carb jet and reset float > * fuel pump > * exhaust system central mount Too bad the weekend was frustrating, but at least you were running at the end. My question is: Does the cost of the parts you replace at the track count against the amount you spend on the car? Or are these parts considered "free"? From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 11:12:14 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:12:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results In-Reply-To: References: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <848110.77656.qm@web52507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> As long as we substitute used, stock parts, they are free. Fan belts and other "consumables" are OK new. We have some leeway as we're considerably slower in a straight line than most cars on the course. If we were in danger of winning something, we'd be looked at a lot closer... :-) ________________________________ From: John Herrera To: tr6driver at yahoo.com; Friends of Triumph Sent: Tue, September 28, 2010 12:56:37 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results > To > put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag > fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the > following: > * distributor > * alternator (twice) > * fan belt > * cap and wires > (twice) > * rotor button (twice) > * front carb jet and reset float > * fuel pump > * exhaust system central mount Too bad the weekend was frustrating, but at least you were running at the end. My question is: Does the cost of the parts you replace at the track count against the amount you spend on the car? Or are these parts considered "free"? From jsnook at wcnet.org Tue Sep 28 11:24:14 2010 From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:24:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Message-ID: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Hey all, I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. Thanks, Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com From budscars at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 11:35:01 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:35:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race References: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Message-ID: <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. Racer Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Snook" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > Hey all, > > I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine > tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any > FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. > > Thanks, > > Jeff Snook > http://www.snooksdreamcars.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Sep 28 12:05:25 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:05:25 -0600 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race In-Reply-To: <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> References: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org>, <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> Message-ID: The Renault powered Bunce Buck (Hey, I'm on the list) will be there racing in the hmod Puckett Cup race. I start the trek from New Mexico tomorrow AM....................Cheers Henry Morrison (TR4, TR6, TR7) > From: budscars at comcast.net > To: jsnook at wcnet.org; fot at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:35:01 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually > pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. > Racer Bud > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Snook" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM > Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > > > Hey all, > > > > I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine > > tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any > > FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Jeff Snook > > http://www.snooksdreamcars.com > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dos_gusanos at msn.com From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 13:59:43 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:59:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Looking for Euro differential for IRS car... Message-ID: <515928.10171.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Or at least a taller rear end ratio. Lacey is just way too slow...we need something with more top end than the standard 3.7:1 fitted to carbed cars. For example, by the time we got to the main straight at Roebling we were already at our rev limit. An overdrive would put us way over the $500 value limit. The 3.45:1 from PI cars would be great...but...finding one on this side of the pond? So...any suggestions? Before anyone suggests taller tires, we're running 205/50-15's Falkens on stock rims...getting the car as low as possible for handling purposes and to remain within cost rules. Thanks! Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing #0 1975 TR6 ChumpCar From horizonracing at msn.com Tue Sep 28 14:21:24 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony & Annie Garmey) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:21:24 -0700 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Message-ID: Jeff, we'll have bill harts devin tr along with a 356 , mgb & a can am mclaren. Look forward to seeing you :) RACER BUD wrote: >Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually >pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. >Racer Bud >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jeff Snook" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM >Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > >> Hey all, >> >> I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine >> tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any >> FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jeff Snook >> http://www.snooksdreamcars.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com From vintage.racer at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 14:35:51 2010 From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (vintage.racer at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 20:35:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race In-Reply-To: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Message-ID: <5740914.1965798.1285706151517.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hi Jeff: Look for #67, red TR4 "The Flying Brick" in action at Infineon this weekend. Look forward to seeing you. Gary Horstkorta ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Snook" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24:14 AM Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Hey all, I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. Thanks, Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintage.racer at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 28 21:34:40 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 21:34:40 -0600 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CA2B3D0.4030708@bradakis.com> What size chokes are you using? You might get some improvement in the idle to midrange using the next size smaller, increasing the intake charge velocity. mjb. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 30 11:34:04 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:34:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Message-ID: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander From riverside at southslope.net Thu Sep 30 13:39:07 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 14:39:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Any advantage to flipping them upside down?? art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:34 PM Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 > Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. > > any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components > > or > > machine work we can do > > looking for the latest information as it is stock. > > default is to replace with stock components. > > thanks! > > joe alexander > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Sep 30 15:42:08 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 07:42:08 +1000 Subject: [Fot] re question on lower a-arm/trunnion Message-ID: I have had no end of problems with reproduction trunnions supplied by various firms. it seems they are all made in the same Indian or Chinese back-yard and come via the UK wholesalers. They have a distinctive polished look to them, suggesting they are not a good bronze, but rather brass. The casting is very poor, the oiling slot is not correctly made, the cap that stops the oil dripping out is not fitted correctly (so it leaks), and worst of all, the thread is so sloppy, they are worse than 30 year old Triumph ones. If someone has a source of genuine or quality left hand ones, pls let me know Terry O'Beirne Australia From adcronin at ameritech.net Thu Sep 30 16:15:45 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (Dan Cronin) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 18:15:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 In-Reply-To: <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <5D959673-FBDF-40A4-ADAB-061F4220E3D0@ameritech.net> The advantage to flipping the lower a-arms is to lower the front of the car about 1/2". Dan C On Sep 30, 2010, at 3:39 PM, riverside wrote: > Any advantage to flipping them upside down?? > > art de armond > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:34 PM > Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 > > >> Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. >> >> any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components >> >> or >> >> machine work we can do >> >> looking for the latest information as it is stock. >> >> default is to replace with stock components. >> >> thanks! >> >> joe alexander >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin at ameritech.net From ablake2 at austin.rr.com Thu Sep 30 16:42:43 2010 From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:42:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Video question Message-ID: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg From tpettenati at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 17:41:16 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:41:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> References: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Message-ID: <470995.60205.qm@web180306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Greg, I haven't tried the GoPro HD, just the standard definition. While I liked the view with the wide angle lens, the picture was very washed out by the sun. So when I had a chance to try the standard lens and the wide angle back to back, I preferred the standard lens. I ended up buying the ContourHD over the GoPro. The jury is still out on if this was the best choice. I've had a few issues with the ContourHD. It froze during the last race I recorded. I'm still trying to figure that one out. It may be vibration causing a momentary disconnect on the internal battery. The sound isn't that great with a lot of wind noise. There are a few fixes for the noise issues, such as adding foam over the mic, or adding an external mic. You wouldn't have that problem in a closed car, or one with a full windshield. IOPORT racing has a good comparison of the GoPro / ChaseCam / ContourHD. http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=C To see a ContourHD video from our last race. http://contour.com/stories/111807 Cheers, Tim Pettenati ________________________________ From: Greg & Alison Blake To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, September 30, 2010 3:42:43 PM Subject: [Fot] Video question Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tpettenati at yahoo.com From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 30 18:53:01 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 00:53:01 GMT Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Message-ID: <20100930.205301.8821.0@webmail03.dca.untd.com> Often the used ones have worn thru the bushings and into the a-arm at the inner end. They then need to be machined round. I use solid bushings in my a-arms. Often the bushings need to be machined to fit the a-arm. You can make and fit offset bushings if you want to gain some camber by making the lower a-arms effectively a little longer. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:34:04 -0400 Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander ____________________________________________________________ Moms Asked to Return to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4ca5314ec7d5d7c993st06duc From malaboge at aol.com Thu Sep 30 19:22:12 2010 From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:22:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 In-Reply-To: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2F1E355EE963-11A4-69C0@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com> Joe- A few rambling thoughts... 1. If you still have the old style trunions (the ones with the pin firmly installed ala TR3) chuck it. Can't recall 'xactely when TR went to the later style but a 63 may still have that setup. Use the late TR4A/6 setup with the additional castor with the TR4a style upper ball joint. 2. If you have the above setup, remove the bushings from the outer ends of the a arms and just use the TR4A/6 plastic bushes. With this you can use a larger pivot bolt (5/8" I think). 3. Inner lower a-arm bushes can be had in many different types (delrin, poly whatevers) from many suppliers. Rotating those arms will give a bit of a drop in stance. 4. Again ifits an early style with the two bolt end plates on the fulcrum pin, reweld that whole area. You can also attach some "wrap around" supports just inside of those plates and weld them to the frame...careful on the outer side of the frame so that you don't impinge on the movement of the spring pan. So many mods...so few cars left... Nick in Nor Cal ps I can hardly speak without the use of many gestures...so if this doesn't make any sense, lemme no and I'll try to unobfuscate...is that a word? -----Original Message----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 10:34 am Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/malaboge at aol.com From dave at microworks.net Thu Sep 30 21:00:30 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:00:30 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <5A0A24D914EB45C6BDB72E10A9E60723@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> <5A0A24D914EB45C6BDB72E10A9E60723@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF0352C0@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> We have used the GoPro Standard for years. Most of the guys we run karts with have upgraded to the wide angle HD. No issues we've seen with "washed out" video and we're running in the bright Arizona Sunshine. Wind noise is also not an issue with the GoPro Here are some good examples with the HD camera mounted on the chin of his helmet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwvBsSDsF88 This one includes him crashing and flipping the kart. Note that he is driving right at the setting sun to see how the video is still not washed out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 30 22:25:59 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 22:25:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20101001042536.15BCA187678@autox.team.net> Greg The video I posted last week was done with a go pro. They are a bit power hungry requiring a new set of lithium batteries every 40 -50 minutes. They use standard SD cards. It cut off for some reason with one or two laps to go in the Kastner Cup. I've had pretty good luck overall but the sound isn't very good if the camera is in the wind. I'm going with the chase cam next year because I already have the traqmate. I have a second HD camcorder I use sometimes to the rear and sometimes on my instruments. The sound is poor on that one too even with baffling over the mic. I don't have a port for a remote mic which would solve that problem. Here's the link again, you can judge the video & sound quality for yourself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2NdtD38v-8 Jim G -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg & Alison Blake Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:43 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Video question Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Sep 30 01:28:54 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 03:28:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive part VIII Message-ID: Hi, Shot some in-car last Sunday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toz07a_2RVI enjoy! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tpettenati at yahoo.com Wed Sep 1 12:36:58 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 11:36:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fw: SFR Vintage Thunderhill Sept. 11-12 Message-ID: <668224.40962.qm@web180304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> FYI Looks like San Fran SCCA could use a few more entries, and are waving the late fee. You can also run on Friday Sept 10 with Hooked On Driving in their race prepped group. Using gift code "SCCA2010", drops the entry fee -$45 to $240 for the Friday. See link below. I'm planing on taking the Spit, wife is driving. Anyone else going? Cheers, Tim ----- Forwarded Message ---- Subject: SFR Vintage Classic Schedule & Entry Form Now Available The SFR Vintage Classic Sports Car Festival is less than two weeks away - - September 11-12 at Thunderhill Park. There is still plenty of room in all five grids: Group 1 Small Bore Production Group 2 T/A 2.5 Challenge Group 3 Small Bore Formula and Sport Racer Group 4 Historic Stock CarGroup 5 Big Bore In fact, we really need at least five more entries in each group to insure good racing for drivers, workers and spectators alike. If you have a friend who hasn't entered yet, encourage them to come out and join the fun. SFR is waiving the late fee for all entries received prior to the event. You will find the entry form, schedule and event regulations on the September 11-12 calendar page on www.sfrscca.org Here are the direct links to: Vintage Entry Form September 11-12 Schedule Supplementary Regulations There is also an option for Friday practice time with Hooked on Driving. See September 10 Info If you have already entered, your acceptance letter with complete event information will be emailed to you on Thursday, September 2. Be sure to read the letter! Some schedule changes may be made if entries remain at their current level. For information on car eligibility or car-related questions: Bill Godwin, Vintage Chief - Call (925) 200-7722 vintage at sfrscca.org For entry information or assistance: Region Office - 888-995-7222office at sfrscca.org From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 07:06:55 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 09:06:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Swag Message-ID: Gang, Is there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any interest in badges from FOT members? Chris Sent from my IPhone From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 2 07:51:43 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:51:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD18BD1B85E9FB-1120-C3E9@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> From: Christopher Bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:06 am CHRIS! Badges have been brought up in the past and it would be very cool. It would need a 'champion' to get the badges produced and orders solicited....and distributed. I would be in for two, at least. In the meantime we do have a few FOT DECALS that are available for distribution. I'd like to think we are ready for such a badge after over 10 years of succesful non-organizational operation. Joe A Subject: [Fot] Swag Gang, s there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any nterest in badges from FOT members? Chris Sent from my IPhone ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Sep 2 09:28:29 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:28:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bonneville / Off normal subject Message-ID: Here is a new endevor for you adventurious guys to try. We have the correct size engine to compete with them. Some of you East coast guys my know some of the people on this list. Udo was at Watkins Glen with his Lister- Corvete two years ago during the Historics. R. Johns Udo is white hair guy with the biggest smile, he built this car from scratch in his garage here in Maryland. From: Udo Horn [mailto:vintagethunder at hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 8:32 AM To: Jeanne Horn; Jack Iliff; Bob Harvey; b thompson Corvette; carbdoctor at yahoo.com; Charles Venable; Dana cadena; Erich Horn; Fred Mullauer; gary barnes; hein frank; Jack Biggs; JD Evans; JEFFREY JACOBS; Jeff sligh; jim allen; jim bartlett; Jim Mullins; Jim Vertichio; John Sabel; John Schell; keith Turk; lyn hodges watts; Marc Mehl; Mark (ROANOKE, VA) Gobble; Mark Ward; Mark Leary; russ eierman; sam moses; steve george; steve kramer; Tammie Boyette; tiff davis; Tom and Tracey Saunders; Tom Falconer; Udo Horn; W Horn; wilton zaiser Subject: FW: b'ville fyi ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: tylertownsley at verizon.net To: vintagethunder at hotmail.com Subject: Re: b'ville Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 21:22:25 -0700 Hello All......Group shot taken at Bonneville impound after we qualified for the G/GMS record (2 liter engine, normally aspirated on gasoline...120 cubic inches). The following morning we backed up our run and set the record at 178.835 mph. http://deliquescence.net/~tyler/misc/bv1.jpg From budscars at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 10:32:01 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 09:32:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES References: <8CD18BD1B85E9FB-1120-C3E9@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: "Badges!!...I don't got to show you no stinkin' badges!!" (:>) Racer Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 6:51 AM Subject: [Fot] Swag FOT BADGES > From: Christopher Bock > To: FoTTriumph > Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:06 am > > CHRIS! > > Badges have been brought up in the past and it would be very cool. > > It would need a 'champion' to get the badges produced and orders > solicited....and distributed. > > I would be in for two, at least. > > In the meantime we do have a few FOT DECALS that are available for > distribution. > > I'd like to think we are ready for such a badge after over 10 years of > succesful non-organizational operation. > > Joe A > > Subject: [Fot] Swag > > > > Gang, > s there any official FOT swag? My local club just got grill badges. Any > nterest in badges from FOT members? > Chris > Sent from my IPhone > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Sep 2 16:08:41 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 08:08:41 +1000 Subject: [Fot] FOT BADGES Message-ID: how do i get a FOT sticker or 2 for the race car?? terry Australia From seacubeco at aol.com Thu Sep 2 20:24:05 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 22:24:05 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> Message-ID: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> >>> Amici >>> >>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>> >>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>> >>> >>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>> >>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>> 40 piece minimum order. >>> normal price with out the fee is: >>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>> >>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>> good deed for the FOT community. >>> >>> $30 per badge >>> >>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) >>> include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>> >>> >>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by >>> then I will refund everyones money. >>> >>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>> >>> >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >> > = From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 21:41:00 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 23:41:00 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Message-ID: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? From norlinengineering at comcast.net Thu Sep 2 22:24:16 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 21:24:16 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> Message-ID: <44F6D5DCD7C34CF2BCF6D8B1F1B09FB9@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Dang this is going to get expensive. I've not only got to buy a badge bar, I've got to by a street going Triumph to mount it on. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Christopher Bock Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:24 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion >>> Amici >>> >>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>> >>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>> >>> >>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>> >>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>> 40 piece minimum order. >>> normal price with out the fee is: >>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>> >>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>> good deed for the FOT community. >>> >>> $30 per badge >>> >>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include >>> your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>> >>> >>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then >>> I will refund everyones money. >>> >>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>> >>> >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >> > = _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 2 22:33:52 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 00:33:52 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <1A1B3D4B-425C-418C-B6C6-099CCD676E31@aol.com> 3 badges are committed to. I was just informed that the art work didn't show in the email. I was going to use the FOT coat of arms that is on the webpage. Chris Sent from my IPhone On Sep 2, 2010, at 11:41 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici > > I am willing to champion this cause........ > > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > am thinking of a 3 inch badge. > > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > > The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > I will refund everyones money. > > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > > > Chris > > P.S. what about banners or flags? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 3 05:33:00 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 07:33:00 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Chris, Excellent! I would be in for (4) of them. We should agree on the configuration and artwork. I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. If you are on this list you should consider participating. The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect of our TRIUMPHS in racing. Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the 60s. (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. Thanks! -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 3 07:08:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 09:08:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] CHRIS MARX' VITON REAR CRANK SEAL- 20 pieces in the mail Message-ID: <8CD198046CC3541-1CD4-FD40@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Chris says the seals are in the mail from Germany to Jesup. There are 20 of them, until the next shipment Those who have already paid may have to nudge me. I think 10 are spoken for already The last cost number I got from Chris was $66. No mark up here. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Modified Scroll Seals are available on an exchange basis from me. The new Scroll Seal Centering tool with correct dimensions is also available from me. The Scroll Seal Centering tool will also be available through major distributors like BPNW Picture of centering tool is at: photobucket.com/ambro ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From tr6driver at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 07:15:10 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 06:15:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <858416.74961.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Count me in for 1 Jamie ________________________________ From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" To: SeaCubeCo at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, September 3, 2010 7:33:00 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Chris, Excellent! I would be in for (4) of them. We should agree on the configuration and artwork. I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. If you are on this list you should consider participating. The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect of our TRIUMPHS in racing. Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the 60s. (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. Thanks! -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 3 08:17:09 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:17:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi, Count me in for two. Do you want to paypal the $$$ now or can we wait 'till you have the artworkready? rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 10:39:03 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:39:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Put me down for one. Jim G # 102 From billb at bnj.com Fri Sep 3 11:01:11 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:01:11 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Badges In-Reply-To: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <699502582.78690.1283531943280.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2DED91E3-F85E-4237-8466-9668CE29999E@bnj.com> I'll take two From garygret at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 3 11:26:54 2010 From: garygret at sbcglobal.net (Gary Schneider) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 10:26:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Sep 3 12:08:15 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 14:08:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <470937.31218.qm@smtp101.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> One for me Paul MacDonald -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of christopher bock Sent: September 2, 2010 11:41 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com From REK46 at aol.com Fri Sep 3 12:34:55 2010 From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 14:34:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Message-ID: <3f2d5.6570cb37.39b299cf@aol.com> I'll take one...rick In a message dated 9/3/2010 1:57:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, garygret at sbcglobal.net writes: I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Fri Sep 3 13:03:41 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:03:41 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: I will need 3. If my kids get on craigslist again, this could go up! Ty ------Original Message------ From: Jim Gray Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Badges Sent: Sep 3, 2010 9:39 AM Put me down for one. Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 13:16:12 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:16:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <984493.15009.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01cb4b9c$78e07b30$6aa17190$@net> I'll go for one Craig Frederick, MD -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Schneider Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 1:27 PM To: christopher bock; FoTTriumph Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each I'm in for two. Gary Schneider Madison WI ________________________________ From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, September 2, 2010 10:41:00 PM Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then I will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/garygret at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/wensley_tr at comcast.net From chasgee at aol.com Fri Sep 3 13:19:53 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 15:19:53 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD19B41F22BDCE-2134-94C0@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Chris, Thanks for doing this. I'll take 2, but will go to 4 if you need the quantity to make the order. Paypal on its way. Chuck Gee -----Original Message----- From: christopher bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 8:41 pm Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each Amici I am willing to champion this cause........ This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I m thinking of a 3 inch badge. There is a 40 piece minimum order. $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then will refund everyones money. This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< Chris P.S. what about banners or flags? ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com From jsnook at wcnet.org Fri Sep 3 13:32:13 2010 From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:32:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Badges Message-ID: <005b01cb4b9e$b5ae5c10$210b1430$@org> I'll take one. Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com From gwizracing at cfu.net Fri Sep 3 13:32:32 2010 From: gwizracing at cfu.net (Gary Wiezorek) Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:32:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> Message-ID: <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> I'll take one. Gary Wiezorek Christopher Bock wrote: >>>> Amici >>>> >>>> I am willing to champion this cause........ >>>> >>>> This is the place I was thinking of using.... >>>> www.arniebrown.com look at the badges and see the quality and >>>> history for yourself. I am thinking of a 3 inch badge. >>>> >>>> >>>> with that said here is the deal.......... >>>> >>>> There is a $200 first time fee (mold fee), >>>> 40 piece minimum order. >>>> normal price with out the fee is: >>>> 40 - 69 $25 each >>>> 70 - 99 $22.5 each >>>> 100 - 500 $20 each >>>> >>>> I am going to go out on a limb and say that the badges will cost >>>> $30 to our FOT members. That $30 does NOT include shipping them >>>> to me, then the shipping to you, or my time and supplies. I am >>>> not trying to make a profit from these. i just want to do a >>>> good deed for the FOT community. >>>> >>>> $30 per badge >>>> >>>> If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or >>>> snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) >>>> include your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. >>>> >>>> >>>> The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully >>>> that will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for >>>> CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by >>>> then I will refund everyones money. >>>> >>>> This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Chris >>>> >>>> P.S. what about banners or flags? >>>> >> = >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gwizracing at cfu-cybernet.net From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 15:45:06 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 17:45:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> <8CD1972E646F51D-1CD4-E663@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6EECD1750D164B7D84239CD030CE9ADD@INSPIRON> Cris thanks for the effort put me down for 2. Can this company make patches for a fire suit form the same art work. I would take 2 of those as well thanks rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 7:33 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each > Chris, > > Excellent! > > I would be in for (4) of them. > > We should agree on the configuration and artwork. > > I would put of them proudly on the two race cars. > > If you are on this list you should consider participating. > > The FOT has become well respected and has increased the value & respect > of > our TRIUMPHS in racing. > > Kas said it was not uncommon to see 20 or more TR4s on the grid in the > 60s. > > (The return to glory was seen at TOPEKA) > > The FOT BADGE on our cars will make a great statement. > > Thanks! > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: christopher bock > To: FoTTriumph > Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 10:41 pm > Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each > > > Amici > I am willing to champion this cause........ > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > ook at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > m thinking of a 3 inch badge. > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > nail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > our contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > he deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > ill give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > HRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > will refund everyones money. > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > Chris > P.S. what about banners or flags? > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 3 16:28:25 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 18:28:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges.... Who wants one? $30 each In-Reply-To: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> References: <7CE6AA6C-239B-43B9-8300-9B81080FACB7@aol.com> Message-ID: Amici, So far I have commitments for 40 badges and payments for 10. I know there is more people on the list that are interested. This might sound like me being a money grubbing a-hole but without the money the badges will not get done. There is still plenty of time to get the money in. Thank you to all I will keep the list posted with what is going on Thank you again Chris Bock On Sep 2, 2010, at 11:41 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici > > I am willing to champion this cause........ > > This is the place I was thinking of using.... www.arniebrown.com > look at the badges and see the quality and history for yourself. I > am thinking of a 3 inch badge. > > There is a 40 piece minimum order. > > $30 per badge that includes shipping to you. > > If your interested send payment via paypal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or > snail mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland NJ,08361) include > your contact info ,quantity of Badges and of course payment. > > > The deadline is NOVEMBER 1. That is the deadline. Hopefully that > will give them and me time enough to get the badges out for > CHRISTMAS! Is there any better present? If we don't get 40 by then > I will refund everyones money. > > This is the artwork I was thinking of using.........o?< > > > > Chris > > P.S. what about banners or flags? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From budscars at comcast.net Fri Sep 3 17:55:46 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:55:46 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fw: United States Grand Prix Message-ID: The organizers of the United States Grand Prix have unveiled the design of the all-new track in Austin, Texas. The Formula 1 circuit will host the USGP beginning in 2012 and is scheduled to continue until 2021 http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/09/new-circuit-unveiled-for-u-s-grand-prix/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of moz-screenshot-3.png] From stlnyc at msn.com Fri Sep 3 19:54:49 2010 From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:54:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cline cam Message-ID: Amici- Does anyone have any information for a Rick Cline cam #289-6? Fred Hodgson From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 06:48:10 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 08:48:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump Message-ID: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of it. Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it into the engine? Thanks, Bill From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 4 07:53:23 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 09:53:23 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> GOOD ONE! Sean would like to install one in #197. -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 7:48 am Subject: [Fot] accusump Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of t. ny advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it nto the engine? hanks, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Sat Sep 4 08:45:12 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 10:45:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1A4FACAB6D88-1028-CC73@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <5F517281-1239-4F00-8081-0C554971BD8D@aol.com> I believe that all depends on the car and engine bring used. That little bit of extra info might help My friend has his tank next to him where the other seat would be with a manual switch to turn it on and off. It is plumbed into the block at the oil filter. His engine was produced in a way that there was an external oil line from the rear of the block to the oil filter. It is a MGB 5 main block. Just make sure you have the check valve in the correct direction. Chris Sent from my IPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 9:53 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > GOOD ONE! Sean would like to install one in #197. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 7:48 am > Subject: [Fot] accusump > > > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > t. > ny advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > nto the engine? > hanks, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/seacubeco at aol.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 4 09:35:10 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 09:35:10 -0600 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: Mine is mounted on the shelf behind the seats. Avoid mounting it in the trunk behind the axle. I put mine there The first time and it was enough to cause oversteer where I didn't have oversteer before. I moved it behind the seats and balance returned. My car is street legal with two seats or I would have probably put it on the right side floor toward the rear. I used AN - 10 line right to the oil Galley on the left side of the block. Jim g #102 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 6:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's > version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to > plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From fasttrs at yahoo.com Sat Sep 4 10:42:26 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:42:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <5A0F7162-8BCE-4D30-A792-5F20C084128F@yahoo.com> I have mine plumbed into the boss directly above the pressure regulator on the side of the block. Mike TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 4, 2010, at 7:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 4 11:18:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 12:18:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <20100904171736.F3E56187649@autox.team.net> What Jim describes below is what I consider to be a best practice (plumb it directly in to the oil gallery, use large tubing). I too have mine mounted on the shelf behind the seats so I could fit a passenger seat. Mine is plumbed into the oil cooler / filter return line using a T fitting and there is a check valve in the oil cooler line before the T fitting so that it won't push oil in the wrong direction. That's usually the 2nd best alternative plumbing, but can be more expedient to install. One thing to think about too is a manual actuation ball valve vs. the electric valve. Mine has an electric valve which means that I don't forget and leave it open when I shut off the engine (it's one of the things powered by the ignition switch). I have a separate switch (secondary to the ignition switch) so that I can turn on the ignition without turning the Accusump on, and I can shut the Accusump off on the cool down lap while at high revs / high pressure. I have an older style electric valve - the newer style ones behave oddly. I believe that they don't flow a lot of volume when filling the accusump but DO flow a lot when emptying it, but am not as familiar with that. - Tony Drews At 10:35 AM 9/4/2010, Jim Gray wrote: >Mine is mounted on the shelf behind the seats. Avoid mounting it in >the trunk behind the axle. I put mine there >The first time and it was enough to cause oversteer where I didn't >have oversteer before. I moved it behind the seats and balance >returned. My car is street legal with two seats or I would have >probably put it on the right side floor toward the rear. >I used AN - 10 line right to the oil >Galley on the left side of the block. > >Jim g >#102 > >Sent from my iPhone > >On Sep 4, 2010, at 6:48 AM, "WILLIAM TOBIN" > wrote: > >>Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's >>version of >>it. >>Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to >>plumb it >>into the engine? >>Thanks, Bill From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Sep 4 15:45:20 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:45:20 -0400 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <4C82BDF0.6010308@charter.net> Bill I have a 3 qt accusump mounted on the tunnel next to the seat. Easy reach for the ball valve and the 10 AN hose that runs to a T in between the remote oil filter and cooler and the filter bypass plate. I also use a check valve in the circuit. I considered running the line directly to the oil gallery (plugs on the side of the engine) but had hardware issues. My installation is on a 1.3L Spitfire. Good Luck Glenn On 9/4/2010 8:48 AM, WILLIAM TOBIN wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 4 15:56:37 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:56:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump Message-ID: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. Andre, great photos, thanks. Now to order all the bits I need. Thanks again, Bill From cartravel at pobox.com Sun Sep 5 09:06:07 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2010 10:06:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] accusump In-Reply-To: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <020901cb4c2f$6ee70980$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <4C83B1DF.4030101@pobox.com> I never got around to installing one in my TR3, but I was thinking of using a small one in the engine compartment. I believe Greg Hilyer has his there. You may want to consider these pressure drop calculations to help determine the hose size. 20w-50 oil at 212 deg F flowing 2 gallons per minute (that's 15 liters/min Chris) through a 10 ft length of AN 10, 8 or 6 hose will drop 0.9, 2.3 and 6.4 psi (6.2, 16 and 44 kPa), respectively. You'd probably have more pressure drop in the valves and fittings than you would have in AN6 hose. 2 gpm would empty a 1 1/2 quart accusump in 11 seconds. I have asked many people the flow rate from a typical oil pump and no one seems to know. Makes me wonder about these high flow oil pumps. "How much does it flow?". "Oh, I don't know." Larry WILLIAM TOBIN wrote: > Hi Gang, I'm thinking about installing an Accusump, or Moroso's version of > it. > Any advice on the installation, and where is the best place(s) to plumb it > into the engine? > Thanks, Bill From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 10:00:35 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:00:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks Message-ID: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a shock threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the gas peddle. Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have to be soaked threw out for this to happen Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would correct this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the information So if your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send it again thanks rob From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Sep 5 10:31:31 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:31:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <000c01cb4d17$cd8c4660$68a4d320$@com> Is this eligible to shift OD with short currents over the body? To shift the OD I have two lines: One over a relays and the second current is controlled by the relays. So no big Amps on my shift knob. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rob Gesendet: Sonntag, 5. September 2010 18:01 An: FoT Triumph Betreff: [Fot] Atype od shocks In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a shock threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the gas peddle. Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have to be soaked threw out for this to happen Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would correct this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the information So if your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send it again thanks rob _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 5 10:39:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 09:39:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <19c201cb4d18$eed0b440$0301a8c0@randall> > Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that > would correct > this. Why not just replace the switch with one that doesn't have the handle shorted to the contacts? Randall From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 13:23:49 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:23:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks In-Reply-To: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <28EF5C63-E822-40A9-AB16-DCC13A8C65C9@comcast.net> It would be a great driver training aid if you could get the brake pedal to do that all the time. Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 5, 2010, at 10:00 AM, "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> wrote: > In the rain with soaking wet gloves engaging the OD I am getting a > shock > threw my glove up my arm down my leg and exits my big toe on the > gas peddle. > Sounds crazy I know but it really hurts after a few times.You have > to be > soaked threw out for this to happen > > Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that would > correct > this. This goes back a few years and and I have lost the > information So if > your out there and can remember the quarry could you please send > it again > thanks rob > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 5 08:57:40 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 07:57:40 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] 13 inch tires Message-ID: <22032980.1283698660139.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi FOT, I'm in the market for 4 or 8 used 185 60 13. I am trying to run a race with HSMA at Coronado and they don't except my Yoko R6 or Toyos R888. Anyone have a set of used Vintage TDs, Goodyear, Avon. They want to sell. Thanks Joe Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sun Sep 5 17:30:06 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 18:30:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Driving Suit Message-ID: <4E5A59A8-2931-44ED-A490-F15017075C55@wi.rr.com> FoT, Will be placing a driving suit on ebay so thought I would share it with the group first. It is a Simpson two-layer, size large suit. It was owned by Ralph Kent-Cooke of Cooke Woods Racing and dates from approximately 1981. Please contact me off-line if interested. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Sun Sep 5 20:57:31 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:57:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S Message-ID: <1F9B9ED5-3E32-4BE3-9BB4-C9EF576CC3C3@aol.com> Amici, I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that I will not use. I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I have the parts for both doors. I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. If anyone is interested please contact me off list From spitlist at cox.net Sun Sep 5 23:35:42 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 22:35:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S In-Reply-To: <1F9B9ED5-3E32-4BE3-9BB4-C9EF576CC3C3@aol.com> Message-ID: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> It would help to know which model Spitfire they are for. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Christopher Bock Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:58 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S Amici, I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that I will not use. I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I have the parts for both doors. I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. If anyone is interested please contact me off list _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 6 07:27:48 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 09:27:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S In-Reply-To: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> References: <20100906053541.MZHA3042.fed1rmmtao106.cox.net@fed1rmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: I think you might be to right on that one. You mean the rest of you can't read my mind or know what car I have? Parts are from a 75 spitfire Chris On Sep 6, 2010, at 1:35 AM, "Joe Curry" wrote: > It would help to know which model Spitfire they are for. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Christopher Bock > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 7:58 PM > To: FoTTriumph > Subject: [Fot] [FOT] spitfire door hardware F/S > > Amici, > I was going threw my parts earlier today and I found the door hardware that > I > will not use. > > I have the windows, window mechs, door handles w/o keys, and some trim. I > have > the parts for both doors. > > I am offering these here first before putting the parts on eBay. > > If anyone is interested please contact me off list > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From walt at hot-tr6.com Mon Sep 6 11:09:29 2010 From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walter Hollowell) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:09:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Hi there all FOT guys. is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Thanks Walt Hollowell Abq., NM _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter . SPAMfighter has removed 111080 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try free scan! From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 6 11:40:13 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:40:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question In-Reply-To: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> References: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4C85277D.4000107@bradakis.com> > is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? > No. 4.5 x 25.4 = 114.3 mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 11:44:45 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 10:44:45 -0700 Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question In-Reply-To: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> References: <20100906170841.23DF7187672@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1c2401cb4deb$320e6a90$0301a8c0@randall> > is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Assuming you are talking about wheel studs, the answer is NO. The bolt circle is 4.5" or 114.3mm. Randall From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 6 12:07:40 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:07:40 GMT Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <20100906.140740.27266.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> It is 4 X 114mm or more precisely 114.3mm. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Walter Hollowell" To: Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 11:09:29 -0600 Hi there all FOT guys. is the bolt pattern for a TR6 in millimeters considered 4X100mm ? Thanks Walt Hollowell Abq., NM _____ I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter . SPAMfighter has removed 111080 of my spam emails to date. Do you have a slow PC? Try free scan! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c852e066d0f2a359f3st02duc From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Sep 6 12:55:30 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:55:30 EDT Subject: [Fot] bolt pattern question Message-ID: <1de8f1.204b66ec.39b69322@aol.com> I believe the 4x100mm is a Fiat pattern and seems to be infinitely more common than the 4x98 the small Triumphs use. Can't imagine what the bigger TR's use. From awashatko at wi.rr.com Mon Sep 6 13:49:56 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 14:49:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Rotor Message-ID: <6776E111-B641-4FB6-85AC-39BB380D56BA@wi.rr.com> FoT, I have one TR6 Brembo brake rotor that has only one race on it. If anyone is interested, please let me know. Thanks, Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Mon Sep 6 14:44:13 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 06:44:13 +1000 Subject: [Fot] Triumphs racing in australia Message-ID: for anyone interested, some pics & video of 2 recent race events can be seen at http://www.roadandtrack.net.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=43&Itemid=41 about 150 of us are gathering all next week for the annual TSOA national meeting, which includes 2 competition events. I'll upload some pics from that soon after Terry O'Beirne From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 17:44:12 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 19:44:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Message-ID: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Andre, Please send photos to Sean, too. seanax at iowalaser Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. Joe -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm Subject: [Fot] Accusump Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. ndre, great photos, thanks. ow to order all the bits I need. hanks again, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From timmurph at fastbytes.com Mon Sep 6 17:45:34 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:45:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake Message-ID: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend I got to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or the TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is one of the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track configuration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared to the current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the DP lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit faster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find that information now. Just curious. Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Mon Sep 6 17:52:22 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 18:52:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 Message-ID: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> Now that I've finally got my fuel injection problems solved, I've been driving the TR5. I've noticed that the OD does not disengage right away at times. I changed the transmission oil to 30W ND from the 80-90 gear lube that I think was in there, at least it smelled and looked like 80/90. Still have the problem. At times it will disengage right away and at other times it might be as much as 10 to 15 seconds before it disengages. I'm familiar with the problem of not engaging, usually the solenoid valve and if not that low pressure. But I've never had the slow disengagement problem nor have I seen anything on it. I suspect that the ball valve is not seating all the time and I have some residual pressure causing the problem. That or the spring on top of the ball valve is either broken or weak. Any insights and suggestions would be appreciated. I haven't taken the tunnel cover off yet but from underneath it appears that the operating lever is completely free when the solenoid is released. Thanks, Tim From andre at gt6.ca Mon Sep 6 18:20:14 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 20:20:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Sure Joe. As requested. http://www.124racer.com/setup_oil_system.html While not TR related. The ideas are universal. I've not installed the hardware yet, but I'm looking forward to doing it this winter. Have to mount the alternator on the other side of the engine. I will be locating the sump behind the removable passenger seat. Going with an electronic valve because I have it, but from what I've read the manual valve might be better. I'm running a 2qt model, but a 3 again might be better. Good luck. Hope this helps. A. On 6 September 2010 19:44, wrote: > Andre, > > Please send photos to Sean, too. > > seanax at iowalaser > > Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. > > Joe > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm > Subject: [Fot] Accusump > > > Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. > ndre, great photos, thanks. > ow to order all the bits I need. > hanks again, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca > > > -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 18:20:26 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:20:26 -0400 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake In-Reply-To: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> References: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> Message-ID: <8CD1C399A915B3F-121C-290E9@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Tim, I have it somewhere and remember it as being 2:59.8 or so. It is a ten year anniversary book from Road America so the content is credible. I think it was set by Jim Spencer, who was a Wisconsin TRIUMPH dealer who also drove for the factory team at the 12 HOURS OF SEBRING. (NOTE: SPENCER brought back the winning SEBRING TR4. I procured it for Keith Files and Keith plans to take it back to it's original Sebring configuration) Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Tim Murphy To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 6:45 pm Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend I ot to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or he TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is one f the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track onfiguration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared to he current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the P lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit aster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find that nformation now. Just curious. Tim ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 18:24:53 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:24:53 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1C3A39D1F8DF-121C-29178@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> egads! great detail! good material for Kas' next book. -----Original Message----- From: Andre Rousseau To: n197tr4 at cs.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net; seanax at iowalaser.com Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 7:20 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Sure Joe. As requested. http://www.124racer.com/setup_oil_system.html While not TR related. The ideas are universal. I've not installed the hardware yet, but I'm looking forward to doing t this winter. Have to mount the alternator on the other side of the engine. I will be locating the sump behind the removable passenger seat. Going with an electronic valve because I have it, but from what I've ead the manual valve might be better. I'm running a 2qt model, but a 3 again might be better. Good luck. Hope this helps. A. n 6 September 2010 19:44, wrote: Andre, Please send photos to Sean, too. seanax at iowalaser Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. Joe -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM TOBIN To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm Subject: [Fot] Accusump Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. ndre, great photos, thanks. ow to order all the bits I need. hanks again, Bill ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca -- ndre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca ttp://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ 68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ 515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ ttawa, ON, Canada From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 6 18:26:38 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2010 17:26:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 In-Reply-To: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> References: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> Message-ID: <006801cb4e23$5669b060$0301a8c0@randall> > I've noticed that the OD does not disengage > right away at One common cause is a bit of swarf stuck in the tiny hole near the bottom of the valve operating shaft. Lots of folks enlarge the hole anyway, for faster downshifts and less likelihood of getting clogged. The good news is that you don't have to disassemble the unit, just remove the transmission tunnel and plug. While you're in there, wouldn't hurt to replace the valve ball, and tap it into it's seat. Without meaning to reopen the fluif wars, I really love the Redline MT-90 in my A-type. Both synchro and OD operation are noticeably crisper than with motor oil, IMO. Randall From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 6 20:03:58 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 22:03:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Thanks for Participating In-Reply-To: <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> References: <54A292AB168B421788336F99D49C43DC@main> <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> Message-ID: <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Below is from Barry Munson...one of our Canadian FOT. This was his response to Bill Rinke, race organizer, who sent out a 'thank you' to all participants. Success cant be measured in the number of entrants. The FOT has an excellent reputation. It was further advanced by the TOPEKA EXPERIENCE. AND, sitting on the grid for the Kastner Cup was an emotional experience. It was an orchestrated emotional experience. NATIONAL ANTHEM with two vintage aircraft side by side trailing smoke and pealing off at precisely the right moment along with drum rolls from the Topeka HS Band. We might have been on the grid at the Indianapolis 500. Thanks for being there with us, Barry. We will be looking for you and your TR3 when it is ready. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Barry Munson To: 'Bill Rinke' Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com Sent: Mon, Sep 6, 2010 8:35 pm Subject: RE: Thanks for Participating Bill b Ibve delayed sending you this because I know that youbve been bombarded with e-mail messages. Man that was one unbelievable event b absolutely superb facility, well organized and run event, great just great people. I would do it again in a heartbeat. My goal in coming was to experience vintage racing, learn a new track, to meet people who are usually on the other end of an e-mail string and, of course, really appreciate the essence of what FOT is b its members. All expectations were met in spades. It was also special to be able to spend some time with you and Dottie, that meant a lot. The attachment is entitled bhome away from homeb because that is how I felt and is also a reminder that a very appreciative Canadian with a Volvo was there. Thanks again. Barry. From mark at bradakis.com Mon Sep 6 20:58:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2010 20:58:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Thanks for Participating In-Reply-To: <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> References: <54A292AB168B421788336F99D49C43DC@main> <000001cb4e2c$fd3d9470$f7b8bd50$@ca> <8CD1C480FE58553-EE0-3A55D@webmail-m069.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C85AA58.5080408@bradakis.com> > AND, sitting on the grid for the Kastner Cup was an emotional experience. > Someday soon perhaps I'll get to experience the feeling first hand. One memory I will take to the grave, which luckily did NOT happen two weeks ago, was attending the Mid Ohio event in 2002, the 50th anniversary of the "Sporting Triumph" Along with many other fans and friends I was in the stands at the last turn before the finish line. The air was full of chatter and anticipation as we all waited for the field to come around on the pace lap. As they came into view, it got REAL quiet all of a sudden. Well, not on track, but as the cars in the Kastner Cup race came around that last turn to take the green dead silence in the bleachers, all eyes on the cars. And the dry eyes in the crowd could have been counted on the thumbs of one hand. I've certainly got emotionally involved in driving a race, that was perhaps the one time I got even more emotional about just watching. I wanted to be in Topeka. mjb. From triosan at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 04:30:58 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:30:58 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. Annotated photos are available at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > Andre, > > Please send photos to Sean, too. > > seanax at iowalaser > > Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. > > Joe > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: WILLIAM TOBIN > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm > Subject: [Fot] Accusump > > > Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. > ndre, great photos, thanks. > ow to order all the bits I need. > hanks again, Bill > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From riverside at southslope.net Tue Sep 7 09:31:44 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:31:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake References: <000001cb4e1d$9a528af0$cef7a0d0$@com> Message-ID: <001901cb4ea1$c77e1060$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> per the " first 10 yearsof Road America " book: Jim Spencer, 6/21/64 2:59.2 - Pretty close Joe!! art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 6:45 PM Subject: [Fot] D Prod lap records from 1960's at Elkhart Lake > With the VSCDA Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival (ELVF) coming up next weekend > I > got to wondering if anyone had the lap records for about 1960 to 1965 (or > the TR4 era, more or less) at Road America . I suspect Elkhart Lake is > one > of the few circuits, if not the only one, that has not changed its track > configuration in the last 50 or more years so the times could be compared > to > the current fast TR4's. As I recall, a number of years ago I did find the > DP lap record for one of those years and the fast guys were quite a bit > faster than the lap record, "back in the day". Of course, I can't find > that > information now. Just curious. > > > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Sep 7 09:39:59 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:39:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Heartland Park More Photos Message-ID: <4C865CCF.8030502@pobox.com> Better slow than never. I took a bunch of photos, with the new camera that I'm still learning to use. These were shot with a telephoto and a wide field of view to capture the action. I then cropped every photo. That's my excuse for why it took so long. Unfortunately, some are a bit fuzzy. Sorry, if there weren't very many of your car. I tend to favor my mates. I'll try to do better next year. -Larry http://www.flickr.com/photos/53707928 at N02/sets/ From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 09:52:37 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:52:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil the system can rob. I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as > others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: > Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to > thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to > Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 > lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. > > Annotated photos are available at: > http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# > > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > >> Andre, >> >> Please send photos to Sean, too. >> >> seanax at iowalaser >> >> Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. >> >> Joe >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: WILLIAM TOBIN >> To: fot at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm >> Subject: [Fot] Accusump >> >> >> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. >> ndre, great photos, thanks. >> ow to order all the bits I need. >> hanks again, Bill >> ______________________________________________ >> ot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums >> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Sep 7 10:29:34 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:29:34 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... FWIW Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 11:52 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil the system can rob. I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > I hooked up five of the oil gallery ports to a manifold fed from a T as > others have describe. Plembing setup is like this: > Oil filter to Thermostat [then to oil cooler then to from oil cooler to > thermostat] from thremostat to one way valve to a T. One side of T to > Accusump, other to the manifold [referred to by KAs as the "octopus"]. An 4 > lines from maifold to AN4-1/8 npt to adapters in oil gallery. > > Annotated photos are available at: > http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/OilGalleryPlumbing# > > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 12:44 AM, wrote: > >> Andre, >> >> Please send photos to Sean, too. >> >> seanax at iowalaser >> >> Thanks for the contribution to the list, once again. >> >> Joe >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: WILLIAM TOBIN >> To: fot at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2010 4:56 pm >> Subject: [Fot] Accusump >> >> >> Guys, thanks for all the info and advice on the Accusump. >> ndre, great photos, thanks. >> ow to order all the bits I need. >> hanks again, Bill >> ______________________________________________ >> ot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >> orums: http://www.team.net/forums >> nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 10:44:31 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:44:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Peyote In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <15F3A927-E7B6-47AB-B5DD-4EC17FE127EA@bnj.com> Incidentally, Peyote was amazing this weekend at the Columbia River Challenge. What a car. The race was rather sparsely attended, 130 cars I think, which makes NO sense, it's a great event with so much track time people actually bail on the last race. SOVREN has settled into what seems like a nice easy relationship with the All British Field Meet, enhancing both events. I'm tempting the gods by bragging about how flawlessly Peyote runs now that Tony Garmey and his Horizon Racing guys take care of it, but it simply does. I haven't had so much as a hiccup all year. Plus it's as pretty as it's ever going to get. Somehow, with no change to the engine, tires, suspension and a little more weight it's faster. I was turning high to mid 1.29's consistently. That's about two seconds a lap faster than my previous record. Two seconds!! I have no idea how this happened. Like most things with Peyote it's a little mysterious. But there's really no doubt in my mind that having it maintained by a guy with the high standards Tony has is the real key. When I get in the car I know it's ready (though I still have to check some things, just to satisfy my mental tics). Since none of the really fast cars showed up in group one, and Cameron Healy's Pooper is still laid up after a wreck, I switched to the big bore group. Lots of guys to play with there--mustangs, XKEs and corvettes, a Lola T70, bunch of 911's and BMWs, and in the last two races, Cameron Healy's 908 and a McLaren. I started in the back since I didn't have a time with the group--qualified in smallbore--and passed my way up to tenth. In the next race I had a long, very fun battle with a Javelin and two 911s that held me up a while, but I finally got loose and chased down the Jag. Almost had him in the last lap, but we came up to lap Charlie who was struggling with problems in his TR6 and I chose the wrong side to try to pass on and lost a step. Still almost got him, but he would have blown by me in the back straight anyway. In the fourth race I gridded fifth and got by the Jag in the run to the chicane and pulled out a nice lead. Got chased down by Cameron in his 908 who was starting in the back somewhere and the T70 who was also back there, so I finished fifth. The last race was uneventful, gridded fourth, got to watch Cameron's beautiful car for a little while, and then just drove clean laps, staying just ahead of a 911 that was going nutz trying to catch me. I had an extra second or so in the bag but he didn't know that. Not nice to tease the Porsches... but it's fun. On Sep 7, 2010, at 8:52 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > If you have a connection straight to the engine oil gallery then there isn't > much reason for all that plumbing and a one way valve that might cause > problems. I just plumb the accusump straight to the gallery. Done. If you use > a mechanical ball valve you need to be a bit careful opening the valve unless > you know the accusump has lots of pressure because you'll steal pressure from > the gallery. If you open and close the valve briefly you'll see the engine oil > pressure dip as you rob oil from the gallery, but doing that a few times > equalizes the pressure quickly, and the valve and line are so big that > pressure increases with RPM happen almost as quickly as without the accusump. > > The electric valves have a flow limiting mechanism that limits how much oil > the system can rob. > > I'm a big fan of simple--no oil thermostat, no one way valve., no T's. Just a > line from the filter adapter to the oil cooler and back, and one line for the > accusump. > On Sep 7, 2010, at 3:30 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 10:58:50 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 09:58:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <22C31961-BE55-442D-8162-C95AA442DDA4@earthlink.net> I installed a 2 QT Accusump in the trunk of my TR3. A better location would be the rear "Seat" but I didn't feel like relocating my firebottle and I have a passenger seat. I used -10AN hose and run the T-fitting and check valve. This is temp because I intend to plumb it straight into the oil gallery. (My other motor is ready to go with this fitting installed.) I use the EPC valve which works fine. This whole thing is just an insurance policy, plus it pressurizes the system while starting the car. I recommend you call the people at Canton racing products and ask them any questions if you have any. I did this and found them to be very helpful and friendly. ~Steve From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Wed Sep 8 05:35:16 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 07:35:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and WC Dentinger Jr Message-ID: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> Your payments have been received Thank Chris From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 22:05:46 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:05:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could References: Message-ID: <1F43F79C-877E-48E3-A16D-C81E3F57DD6B@earthlink.net> Sorry. That should read .7 not 1.7 > , back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 > seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 7 12:08:01 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:08:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up > through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 7 18:07:19 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:07:19 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Type A overdrive not disengating on street TR5 In-Reply-To: <000001cb4ede$8c51abe0$a4f503a0$@com> References: <000501cb4e1e$8d768010$a8638030$@com> <006801cb4e23$5669b060$0301a8c0@randall> <000001cb4ede$8c51abe0$a4f503a0$@com> Message-ID: <1f5301cb4ee9$ce8a0790$6b9e16b0$@rr.com> > Question - in drilling out the port are you concerned about the chips > falling into the overdrive? I'm sorry I was not clearer, Tim. The port I was talking about is located in the valve stem itself, so you simply pull the stem out (using a magnet or bent paper clip) to make the mod. Clean it afterwards, so no contamination to the OD. It's also kind of tricky to drill, so it's probably better to use a small grinder (Dremel). There is a photo of a modified stem at http://tinyurl.com/286t7wq (Not my photo, don't recall where I got it. If anyone recognizes it as theirs, please let me know and I'll be happy to give due credit.) When the OD disengages, the valve stem drops, which opens the top of the stem to the oil. The oil from the pistons then has to run out through that port (and the clearance around the stem) for the OD to disengage. Triumph also used to recommend motor oil for the A-type ODs, there was even a 1954 service bulletin saying to use only motor oil if OD was installed. (Although oddly enough, they specified detergent oils, like Shell X100.) But somewhere around 1960, they changed to requiring GL4 in both OD and non-OD gearboxes. Supposedly that was because they were seeing too many failures of the thrust washers in the gearbox (which are a weak spot). But if it works for you, then certainly you should use it. -- Randall From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 10:03:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 09:03:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Concur regarding the positive displacement pump acting as a fairly effective check valve. I do not have a check valve in my system and precharging to 35-40 psi off of the 1 1/2 qt accumulator is no problem. The only thing the check valve would improve on in my opinion is if you have a leak from a hose, cooler, oil filter, etc or if the pupm drive breaks. A 25psi idiot light is the only thing that may help then. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 AM Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the > thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 7 18:28:33 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 00:28:33 GMT Subject: [Fot] Lime Rock Vintage Festival Message-ID: <20100907.202833.95.1@webmail03.dca.untd.com> Congratulations to Dave Spiwak for his victory at the Lime Rock fall festival. I heard that he took 1st in his first race and 3rd in his second race. Nice driving. My son was working in timing and scoring and did not give me any details. Perhaps others can better fill in the blanks. Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From igofaster at att.net Tue Sep 7 18:51:21 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:51:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Grill Badges with Champion In-Reply-To: <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> References: <05625D54-47DC-476C-AED7-6B0B9EDA3768@comcast.net> <218C2EA9-0841-4C8E-BABB-83E109F61866@aol.com> <4C814D50.4050704@cfu.net> Message-ID: <481634.24386.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I'm down for two stickin' badgers.... Bobby Whitehead ________________________________ From markvaden at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 18:36:38 2010 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 17:36:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Message-ID: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark From billb at bnj.com Tue Sep 7 12:32:57 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:32:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1CC7F7C7B2C7-830-5B36@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD1CC7F7C7B2C7-830-5B36@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <111FD8A9-792D-416B-B843-65630C76EDFE@bnj.com> Of course. The question is "does that matter". Given all the resistance to backflow of the pump and all the other stuff, and the fact that we're directly lubing the bearings that we care about, my answer is "not much". The way you use the accusump is you open it up, see the oil light go out, and start the engine. You have pressure on the bearings and you backfill all the passages from the gallery to the pump. When you punch the start button the pump starts turning and backflow stops. Your bearing have oil under pressure from the time the valve opens. Check valve or no check valve. The other mode is that something makes your pump stop working--you break an oil pump drive or suck air. In that case the accusump is generally at full pressure and delivers oil for a pretty long time. You have more than enough time to shut the motor down or for the oil to drop back down in the pan and the pump to start working again. Accusump includes a check valve (imho) because most people plumb to the oil cooler line, and you need all the flow you can get to make that useful. Going straight to the gallery you just don't need to optimize the accusump. On Sep 7, 2010, at 10:19 AM, Fubog1 wrote: > yes you are going to see the pressure that is in the accusump, but part of the volume is going to go back through the pump, until the pump starts working... > Glen > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net > To: Fubog1 > Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com; fot at autox.team.net; billb at bnj.com; triosan at gmail.com > Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 1:14 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > I don't see that, when I release oil to the motor ( pre- start up ) I see full pressure > on the gauge according to what it was when I shut it off the last time. I think the pump acts > as it's own check valve in a way. > > Jim G. From andre at gt6.ca Wed Sep 8 11:04:49 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 13:04:49 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> References: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <66F31F4E61F04C258344C68377FDA81F@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: WRT to the check valve I thought the point of it was when you open the accusump for pre-oiling it forces the oil towards the engine and not back into the oil cooler & filter. Which could push junk in the filter backwards? A. On 8 September 2010 12:03, Norlin Engineering wrote: > Concur regarding the positive displacement pump acting as a fairly effective > check valve. I do not have a check valve in my system and precharging to > 35-40 psi off of the 1 1/2 qt accumulator is no problem. The only thing the > check valve would improve on in my opinion is if you have a leak from a > hose, cooler, oil filter, etc or if the pupm drive breaks. A 25psi idiot > light is the only thing that may help then. > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 AM > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > >> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back >> up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the >> thing... > > But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards > through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly > small? > > Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into > the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the > galleries? > > This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still > don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up > ... > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/andre at gt6.ca > > > -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From igofaster at att.net Tue Sep 7 19:07:12 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 18:07:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 Message-ID: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 11:32:33 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 13:32:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), I would prefer that the charge go where it is supposed to go ie the bearings., and let the oil pump do what it does. If a system isn't prone to sucking air, then the accusump becomes less critical, in that respect. Also when cold starting, before the engine is turning, there is a lot of restriction on the bearing side because the oil ports are not likely lined up, ie not much bleed. Just as a matter of interest I have 2 oil pressure gauges in my spit, one for running and the other for accusump. When I used to run F prod with slicks, guaranteed every lap coming out of #2 at palm beach, the main pressure would drop a tad & then the accusump would kick in, just for a moment until the oil pump got things sorted out... JMHO Glen -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 7, 2010 2:08 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back > up > through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... But the pump is positive displacement, right? So oil can only go backwards through it by leaking through the clearances, which hopefully are fairly small? Plus, it's going to be running at the time, so any oil that leaks back into the intake will likely get sucked through the pump and stuffed back into the galleries? This is outside my experience, so I'm just asking questions. But I still don't understand the need for the check valve, and since it was brought up ... -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 11:42:45 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 13:42:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] test no content Message-ID: <8CD1D9461912B37-1B94-16B2@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> just checking, email is doing some weird stuff I know... aol sux... sorry From lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 11:52:13 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:52:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: References: , <1F43F79C-877E-48E3-A16D-C81E3F57DD6B@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3CE76256-7763-4F35-A1D5-E40CFAEFD256@earthlink.net> Hello All, This is a reference to a post I sent that was over size limit and is awaiting Mark's magic wand. Henry - my 1:35.134 last October dethroned Jerry Rahal's Lotus best of 1:35.853 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 8, 2010, at 11:30 AM, wrote: > What is the Vintage Production Lap Record these > days?........................Cheers Henry > > > From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net > > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:05:46 -0600 > > To: fot at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: The Little Engine That Could > > > > Sorry. That should read .7 not 1.7 > > > > > , back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 > > > seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., > > > > > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > > TR4 #314 > > > Albuquerque NM From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 11:54:15 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:54:15 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <062E0C64-E2C2-4E63-BB2E-199CC368B7F6@comcast.net> They want 38-40 hot pressure. Yor cold temp depends on the track and altitude. In Colorado I start out at 33 front and 31 rear to arrive at 39 hot. At Topeka I had to go 36f & 35r cold to get to 39-40 hot. At Topeka on Friday I used my colorado cold pressures and I was over 8 seconds off the pace with hot pressures of 36f & 34r. Over Saturday and Sunday I got em up to40 Front & rear and times fell to low 2:01s & 2:02's. Unfortunately I was supposed to have afresh set waiting for me in topeka but we know the story with that. I took tire temps too which was interesting in itself but I have IRS so temps do more for me than for a live axle car. Jim g #102 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 7, 2010, at 6:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same > thing) tires, > and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? > > Thanks, > Mark > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From ikorey at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 11:58:29 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 12:58:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 8:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? > Joe? Ted? > Bobby Whitehead > I got some from Moss Motors for the TR6. Don't know if others carry them or not. HTH, Irv Korey From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Sep 8 12:00:32 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 14:00:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT BADGES In-Reply-To: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> References: <6A78085A-977A-4D83-8BAE-FF790E426F17@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD1D96DD98EC96-240-963@Webmail-d122.sysops.aol.com> thanks for doing this....it is great statement. i just paypaled for 4 of them. is there a picture or description of an example? regards, joe -----Original Message----- From: Christopher Bock To: FoTTriumph Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 6:35 am Subject: [Fot] Russell Westfall and WC Dentinger Jr Your payments have been received hank Chris ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From mpendy at dishmail.net Wed Sep 8 12:01:54 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:01:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Atype od shocks References: <44DB87FF0399476FB978F90D2332ABA5@INSPIRON> <19c201cb4d18$eed0b440$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <361E768E14E64BB3A35351EF9C91235D@Pendys> I don't think that anyone has brought this up, but i would hope that you are switching the ground and NOT the power wire, this would take care of the problem, for instance, ever wondered or noticed why most typical horn circuits switch the ground???....Just my 2 cents worth. MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'FoT Triumph'" Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:39 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Atype od shocks >> Some one on the list sent me a simple electrical diagram that >> would correct >> this. > > Why not just replace the switch with one that doesn't have the handle > shorted to the contacts? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net From s.janzen at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 12:27:10 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:27:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> PRI has some great ones that I have been using for several years. You can get several assembly/disassembly cycles out of them. They are some sort of thick, grey, very dense material. He does not always have them in stock, however. On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 12:28:37 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 11:28:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <84B724F9-8867-4C92-AB30-B9DE5CFBDB45@earthlink.net> Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From billbab at me.com Tue Sep 7 12:34:21 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 11:34:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Accusump References: <19670BED-3602-4240-8117-9B918A0FA4F1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <9E99B9DD-128B-4A43-A2D3-A8884CDC1978@me.com> Oops, too long Begin forwarded message: > From: Bill Babcock > Date: September 7, 2010 9:51:15 AM PDT > To: Fubog1 > Cc: triosan at gmail.com, seanax at iowalaser.com, fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Not significantly if you go in through the gallery. If you're in the cooler line, sure, but if not, not so much. The bleed down rate for the Accusump is pretty slow, restricted as much by the small gallery hole as anything else, but it maintains more than 20 pounds of engine oil pressure measured at the gallery for at least 30 seconds. That's all I want. That and the ability to pre-oil the motor before each start. > > On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Fubog1 wrote: > >> without the check valve, some of the charge is going to want to back up through the pump, so it is reducing the effectiveness of the thing... >> FWIW >> Glen From harmug at us.ibm.com Wed Sep 8 14:40:42 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 16:40:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, -Limerock Results In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Vintage Festival results. I was having fun until I blew a head gasket. http://www.limerock.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=107&Itemid=107 thanks mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 8 15:21:50 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:21:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If > it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't force oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). It acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of their race motor? -- Randall From fasttrs at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 15:37:30 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:37:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 In-Reply-To: <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> References: <430269.37258.qm@web180816.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4D5A61C9-E8B9-4128-AC25-E8C831B7B238@comcast.net> Message-ID: <760780.68035.qm@web46103.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bobby, What Scott said. I coat mine with Hylomar so they will release for reuse. Mike To: Bobby Whitehead Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 1:27:10 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] thick manifold gasket TR6/GT6 PRI has some great ones that I have been using for several years. You can get several assembly/disassembly cycles out of them. They are some sort of thick, grey, very dense material. He does not always have them in stock, however. On Sep 7, 2010, at 9:07 PM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: Been chasing down vacuum leaks on the GT6 carburetors. First the back one leak, then the front, then the back.... argh.. The GT had a smaller gasket cut for the intake manifolds mating to the header flange. It's been back and forth. I cut a thinner gasket up and a thicker gasket up to try to chase down the leak... I think if I can locate the thicker manifold gaskets and cut one up for the intake side, I might be able to kill the gremlin.. Who has the line of thicker manifold gaskets? Joe? Ted? Bobby Whitehead GT6+ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Sep 8 15:48:06 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 17:48:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 8 Sep 2010, Randall wrote: [stuff deleted] > I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil > pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally > last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a > requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of > their race motor? If you have $$,$$$ in your race motor, do you really want to know if the pre-oil makes a difference? Most folks I know that race out of pocket think $300-$500 for an accusump is a heck of a lot better than $10k for a new block, cam, crank, etc. etc. Plus it looks kool. :-) > -- Randall regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 15:50:07 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 15:50:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <2122430D-7D08-4BFA-B29F-C3449F2DE368@earthlink.net> > Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally > last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem > like a > requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the > life of > their race motor? > > -- Randall I tend to agree and that's why having it under the hood in the [former] battery box works for me. I turn it on, leave it on, and it's one less thing to forget. Also minimizes the length of expensive line. I've got a hunch that most cockpit or trunk mounts will cost more in braided S/S line than the Accu-Sump itself. I do leave it loaded with the valve closed when it's going to be parked for awhile... and Maybe I'll remember to open it before the next cold start. > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 15:52:09 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 14:52:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <84B724F9-8867-4C92-AB30-B9DE5CFBDB45@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hoosier has a fact sheet on these tires on their website that tells how to break them in and how to set baseline pressures. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Belfer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 11:29 AM To: Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 8 16:04:25 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:04:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DB8EF82054A-2058-416E@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> I suspect that the pump is a considerable bleed when it is inop ie initial charging of the system, before it is spinning. I don't see it as a check valve at that point, sorry to disagree. Generally speaking (typing), one of the biggest, if not the biggest cause of wear in an engine in service is "dry" starts. The 1500 spit/midget engine with certain oil filter/housing configurations is the perfect example. I agree that an engine in good shape, and not driven hard (ie street engine), would benefit little, if at all, from an accusump. Race engines need all the help they can get. My intent in posting about this was not to start a debate. I simply saw information posted that contradicts normal practice, & my personal experience using accusumps for a long time, and I wanted to offer some additional thoughts on the matter... Glen -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 5:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If > it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't force oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). It acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil pressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally last many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a requirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of their race motor? -- Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From bswope959 at msn.com Wed Sep 8 16:17:47 2010 From: bswope959 at msn.com (Bill Swope) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 16:17:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Car badge Message-ID: How do I order one ? From chasgee at aol.com Wed Sep 8 16:42:38 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:42:38 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DBE45F1542A-6C0-4E16@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com> It absolutely extends the life of my race motors. There are corners at certain tracks that have a tendency to expose the pump pick up regardless of how good the pan baffling. This is where the accusump shines. Without it, I'd go through a lot more motors, and I go through too many already. The pre-lubing is nice, especially after the car has sat a while between races. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 2:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Of course the pump is positive displacement, when it is pumping oil. If it is just sucking air (as in a particular hard left-hand corner), My point is, regardless of what is on the inlet side of the pump, you can't orce oil backwards through it (except to the extent it leaks all the time). t acts like a check valve, even if it is not turning. I am assuming that the main purpose of the Accusump is to avoid loss of oil ressure in hard turns. Pre-lubing is a nicety, but these engines normally ast many thousands of starts with no pre-lube, so it doesn't seem like a equirement to me. Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of heir race motor? -- Randall ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee at aol.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 17:38:09 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 23:38:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Good point on the break in. I was getting the R6's from Tire Rack already heat cycled. As far as I know Tire Rack doesn't offer the SM6 and Hoosier does not heat cycle tires. It has to be done properly or the life of the tire will be cut significantly. The abreviated version is...two medium laps, two hot laps and then get them off the car or off the ground to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norlin Engineering" To: "Steven Belfer" , "Mark Vaden" Cc: "FOT Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2010 3:52:09 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Hoosier has a fact sheet on these tires on their website that tells how to break them in and how to set baseline pressures. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Belfer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 11:29 AM To: Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures Mark why don't you run about 60psi ~Steve B :P On Sep 7, 2010, at 5:36 PM, Mark Vaden wrote: Hi Everyone, I bought some hoosier r6 (actually sm6 but supposedly the same thing) B tires, and I was wondering what is a good starting pressure cold? Thanks, Mark _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 8 18:12:45 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:12:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <417866790.263495.1283989089582.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G" FWIW - After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: Heat cycle a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 with -1/2deg camber up front. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:30:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:30:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm running 2 1/2 degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle cars do need to run the higher pressures. Jim Norlin -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden Cc: FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular realigning going on during the cure period. Jim G" FWIW - After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: Heat cycle a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 with -1/2deg camber up front. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/norlinengineering at comcast.net From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:30:02 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 18:30:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <80A60998-C283-4D67-9889-65574213AEF0@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I just checked the Hoosier web site and the link I refered to earlier is broken. However, I found a copy at the following location: http://www.racetire.com/products/tctips.htm#Tire Pressure Recommendations For Competition If you read down far enough you will see this: "Independent rear suspension With IRS and proper geometry up front, tire pressures can be reduced from the recommendations listed above. When there is adequate camber gain and good roll control, the Hoosier radial tire will perform very well at the reduced air pressure. This results in a bigger "sweet spot" and easier control at the limit. When tuning at reduced pressures use the following formula to determine the minimum safe pressure: Divide the total vehicle weight, including fuel and driver, by 100 to arrive at the minimum safe pressure. Example: Your car weighs 2750 lbs. as raced. The minimum safe (cold) pressure is 27.5 psi." This is a far cry from 40 psi in a 2000 lb car. I started out at 26 with my 1700 lb Spitfire cause that's what I ran with my old Yokohamas. I've finally settled on 17-18 lbs cold. Far more grip than at 26. Take it for what it's worth, but it works for me. Jim Norlin From atr6racer at hotmail.com Wed Sep 8 19:40:55 2010 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:40:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FW: GT6 racer on ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This has been on ebay. I don't know the car, but it sounds well built. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Triumph-GT6-Vintage-Race-Car-_W0QQcmdZVie wItemQQhashZitem3f02f7047eQQitemZ270632682622QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ 5fLegalQ5f From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 19:55:22 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:55:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net From atr6racer at hotmail.com Wed Sep 8 20:29:48 2010 From: atr6racer at hotmail.com (Sam Halkias) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 22:29:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR6 race car for sale Message-ID: Must me my night for finding Triumph race cars for sale. Got this link from a good friend of mine. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/triumph/1272287942/1272287942pp.htm This one is a TR6 that has never been raced. Just thought I'd pass it along to the group. Sam Halkias From norlinengineering at comcast.net Wed Sep 8 20:48:40 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:48:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> Message-ID: Not with the Hoosiers. I've just been monitoring the tire wear, which is very even. I'm getting around 8 weekends out of a set of tires with the grip level being good the whole time. I'm seeing some extra wear on the outside of the fronts and have been considering increasing the camber to 3 or better as you have done. -----Original Message----- From: Jim Gray [mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 6:55 PM To: Norlin Engineering Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; Mark Vaden; FOT Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 8 21:14:14 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 20:14:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Message-ID: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? Thanks, Ernie From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 8 21:30:52 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 21:30:52 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] Team.Net hiccups Message-ID: <20100909033052.17FFE2E0A6@bradakis.com> Yes, the lists have been acting funny today. There was a loss of connectivity to the world for about 24 hours, so email was delayed and web pages were unavailable. I do apologize for the inconvenience. mjb. From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Sep 8 21:45:04 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 23:45:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> who all is going and where are you staying? i may leave rv home and find motel. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Husmann To: FOT Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? hanks, rnie ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 7 21:10:35 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 21:10:35 -0600 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could Message-ID: The Plum Pi finally gave the death rattle. A lap from the end of Connie's race last Saturday she "sensed something" and brought it in although the temp and pressure were OK. The rod knock didn't start until idling thru the pits. Had I been driving I'd probably have a puzzle-piece bottom end. It's actually been a open secret that I've been insisting on Connie doing more driving as a means of extracting every bit of borrowed time that the poor thing has been on since Portland. Funny thing is that my procrastination on last winter's scheduled rebuild actually allowed Chris Marx to develop the sealing fix I've been waiting for. So I just went thru the log books. This is the re-incarnation of the engine I built in '05 - the Mahle pistons have never been out of their bores. The current build got some track time and one race before Watkins Glen. Then Brainard, back home, Portland, home to best my personal record by 1.5 seconds and taking the Vintage Production lap record by 1.7 secs., Topeka and back home. And all the races in between. Total of 13 race weekends and about 5 light testing days. In hindsight it wouldn't have made it thru Topeka if Connie hadn't done her share of the driving. And BTW - Heartland was her first race off of our home track at Sandia. She had a blast did a great job in my book, including being pretty aware of passing traffic and point byes. She's a natural for seeing the line but just has a more prudent approach to our TRactors than I do. My question from awhile back was a honest inquiry. I was wondering what sort of duty others are getting from stock but messaged internals. The first incarnation would actually see as high as 7200 rpm and lived. I had that crank mag'd and it wasn't until it was re- checked after cryo treatment that the crack was detected. I'm convinced that the treatment brought the crack to the visible surface and saved me from "the big one". On the tear-down of that 7000+ rpm version I found the timing chain to be stretched enough to retard the cam close to 8 degrees. Next [this] time around I used a virgin, un- ground crank, crack checked it, did the Kas treatment of stress relieving, lightening and polishing, cryo'd it, crack checked it again and polished journals to -.0001. I tried a clue from the previous lesson and retarded the cam [Isky 666. Looking forward to a LY] 4 degrees and used a better chain [BPNW]. This engine saw 6800+ on the over-run but was all-in for any power by 6500. Anyone listening from the fence at Topeka knows what I mean about "over-run" in my downshifts... Might even have touched 7k in the last turn of Topeka. I really like driving with the rear end and my car really won't do much of that on-"power", mostly on the other side of the curve. I never intended to get max output from my set-up. I'd just get addicted to it at the expense of longevity. Thus the original short runner manifold [great conversation starter - "you know they made a ...."], original untouched carbs [Henry Fry and I took the original, round, solid brass float needles out in Portland - I still owe you a pair of needles Tony G] no trumpets, no heat shield, no nothin'. Points ignition done Kas' way to a gnats ass. Head looks to be nicely done [by some unknown other ] and I gave the chambers my treatment to get the compression down to the 10.6:1 I thought I could get away with. Ignored the common [and good] wisdom and left the head gasket [Payden composite] hanging over into the chamber and no relief notches in the sleeves. CC'd +/- .5 cc. I've never subjected it to a dyno but always thought I MIGHT be in the 130+hp range. To my surprise, a friend just built 148hp with this basic spec. So my big question is: How nuts am I in thinking I might get a bit more for Laguna Seca? I've got a really nice 12:1 head on the shelf that I've never had the guts to install. I'm sold on the Mahle's and will do them again. Forged anything is not in the plan. On a side note and to my surprise, a few have asked for the whole Topeka saga. To my surprise because I'm never sure if anyone reads or wants to hear my drivel. For those that don't, start lookin' for the delete button. The "inland freighter" is a 53' Haulmark enclosed car hauler. Picked it up in Tulsa this spring and brought it home to Albuquerque. Got a '91 Dodge 1 ton, turbo diesel, dually and outfitted it as a cab&chassis tow rig. A couple brief shake-down runs and Topeka was it's maiden voyage. Talk about "beaten by equipment"!! The first 50 miles from Albuquerque to Santa Fe goes from 5500 to 7200 feet. Quickly obvious the cooling system is not happy with my 14,000 CGVW. At Santa Fe I got on the 50 mph Old Percos Trail [route 66 prior to 1937] to try cooling things off for the pull up Glorietta pass. Haven't driven that stretch for a few years but I knew where I was the moment I saw it - the last place to get on I-25 before the road dead-ends in a couple hundred yards. That's when I found out the trailer brakes were not set quite where they needed to be. There was one small sign about 150' from the downhill turn. Overshot it by 25'. That's when I found out that the engine/transmission mounts were not up to the task of backing uphill. Dead-end road, no turn around [how New Mexico] and no reverse. That was the first time I questioned if this was going to work. Barley and I scouted around for about 20 minutes on foot looking for some way to reverse course. One driveway looked promising so we gave it a try. Tight but just up-hill enough it didn't take much clutch to go backwards. By the third or fourth jack-knife maneuver I'm thinking I'm going to make it. Then comes the first wife on her way down the drive in her way to work. Explain myself, she backs up 100' feet and we're doing good. Than comes the second wife driving down. Followed by hubby on foot. With hubby's guidance I clear the mailbox by inches and the trees on the other side of the road by a few feet. Probably took a hour and a half and on the road again. Cooling system is a issue but find how directly I can control the temp with my right foot. As the terrain flattens out, the trip seems to smooth out. Stop for fuel somewhere in Oklahoma and do a light check. They're not doing as well as the last time I checked. Typical ground problem. Put a jumper on ground side and go in for [another] Red Bull. Come out ready to go, give everything a final check and the inside of the trailer is filled with that acrid smell that only comes from burning wires. Go to pull the jumper and get a good burn. How it did what it did without burning a fuse I don't even want to know. Turns out the wiring is the damnedest array of mis-wired backfeeding I've ever seen. A couple hours, a complete re-wire and a spare light later, we're on the road again. Keep in mind that WE is me and Barley - we're due to pick Connie up at the Kansas City Airport at what is now TODAY at 9:45 p.m.. 100 miles down the road and we find a road sign that had so many options it looked to be from the Japanese alphabet. Missed the turn. 12 miles in the wrong direction to find a "almost' turnaround. I say "almost" because the landing gear on the trailer bottomed out about half-way around... totally smoked the dually's to get it horsed around with the trailer jacks grinding their way into the pavement. Another 12 miles back and headed east again. It's about 11:30, we're doing about 60 on two lane highway 56. With a KAWAMM- BANG!!! I thought the frame had broken in half. We're headed for the other shoulder/ditch. Correct a bit and we're now tracing the centerline but 53' of trailer wants to pass. Hit the hand control on the trailer brakes and get it straightened out. But now we're about to be parked and disabled in the middle of a two lane highway. Actually had the presence of mind to downshift, give a bit of throttle and get it parked on the grass on my side of the road with maybe 4" of the rear over the line. Took about 1/4 mile to get it stopped and at the end I could see the sparks coming off right next to the fuel tank. Had plenty of time to grab the fire extinguisher from under the seat and think A: There goes Topeka. And B: How am I going to get this thing fixed and out of here? Jumped out and the good news was that we weren't on fire. Next clue is that we didn't have either wheel on the drivers rear of the truck. Flashlight revealed that we had one sheared lug stud and a mangled drum. Took Barley for a little walk and within 100' he found one wheel. Another 25' and we found the other!. Back to the truck for lots of jacking and blocking. Beat the brake drum back on, started the truck and put it in gear with the wheels off. The drum make some bad noises and required a few more whacks but was soon running fairly true. Then to discover that a Dodge with a Dana 70 uses different lugs from front to rear. Only thing to do is to rob 4 [half] off the other rear and see what happens. It was durring this swap process that I saw the 140 Ft Lbs on the face of the nuts - I had them at 75. 53' of trailer on 4 lug nuts is not very confidence inspiring... 100 yards and check them. 1/4 mile and check them again. 1 mile and another check. After they hadn't budged in 5 miles I started to get up to speed - maybe 45mph. By this time of the morning the truck traffic started up. Talk about jumpy! Had a pebble got stuck in a tire I was ready to pitch the whole thing in the ditch. Needless to say, but we weren't there to pick Connie up at the airport. She had to get a room, rent a car, and meet us at the track. By the time I got there about 1pm Friday, it had taken 28 hours to drive 736 miles straight thru and I was hardly in a condition to unload the car much less drive. First race of Saturday was Connie's first time on the track. After lunch was my first outing - though I did take the TR3 out for the lunchtime lapping to figure which way the track went. Funny thing was at the drivers meeting Sunday - Jim Grey was explaining how I was apexing too early to get set up for the bridge. I told him that the bridge looked like there was plenty of room to keep going after the crest. He looked at me with a kind of puzzled look and explained that the turn before going down to the bridge had to be entered from far drivers right. My response was "we go UNDER a bridge?"!!! I just don't see those kind of things. Reminds me of when Chuck met the wall in Portland - after he told me what happened I said "there's a wall out there?" Really glad I don't seem to see those scary things. So that's the "rest of the story" I know this is over max but please send it thru Mark. Would really like to hear about others engine longevity. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM And kudos to Walt Hollowell for having that TR6 flying last weekend. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Sep 9 00:20:31 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:20:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than 60F. 50-60F is the optimum for racing. Cheers Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Jim Gray Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 03:55 An: Norlin Engineering Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; FOT Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was pretty well used by Friday. Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" wrote: > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > running 2 1/2 > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > cars do > need to run the higher pressures. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > Cc: FOT Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > realigning going on during the cure period. > Jim G" > > FWIW - > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > Heat cycle > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > norlinengineering at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 9 08:46:39 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:46:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100909144600.34994187644@autox.team.net> I'm going, staying at the Victoria Village Inn in Elkhart Lake. It's kinda pricy this year, though. - Tony At 10:45 PM 9/8/2010, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: >who all is going and where are you staying? > >i may leave rv home and find motel. > > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Ernest Husmann >To: FOT >Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm >Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > >Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? > >hanks, > >rnie >______________________________________________ >ot at autox.team.net >http://www.fot-racing.com >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >rchive: http://www.team.net/archive >orums: http://www.team.net/forums >nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From bentleyblvd at yahoo.com Thu Sep 9 09:04:20 2010 From: bentleyblvd at yahoo.com (John Hornbostel) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 08:04:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Joe, we'll be there. Staying in Sheb Falls at the Days Inn. Regards, John H. ----- Original Message ---- From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 11:45:04 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America who all is going and where are you staying? i may leave rv home and find motel. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Husmann To: FOT Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? hanks, rnie ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bentleyblvd at yahoo.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 9 09:08:34 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:08:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> Message-ID: Thanks for all that info guys. Ive been using up a set of fronts in about 100 laps on my gt6. Granted, I assume that my street t.d.'s are a little different... but what all this seems to be pointing to is that maybe I should drop the starting pressure from 27 a few pounds as my car is about 200-300 pounds lighter than your TR's. I think they rise about 8-10 pounds when hot but I feel like I should be getting a little more life out of the tires. Am I correct in thinking that a little less pressure will promote longevity? I'm not even going as fast as you guys....YET. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 1:20 AM, MadMarx wrote: > A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature > on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than > 60F. > 50-60F is the optimum for racing. > > Cheers > Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von Jim Gray > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 9. September 2010 03:55 > An: Norlin Engineering > Cc: Greg Lunker Hilyer; FOT Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > I reduced my camber from 3.3 front & > 2.5 rear by three tenths for Topeka. > At 3.3 I had a 13 - 16 degree spread > From in to out with the insides being the hottest from 145 - 160. > Reducing the camber resulted in the spread reduced to eight degrees. > That didn't neccissarily make the car quicker. That set of tires was > pretty well used by Friday. > Have you taken temps with 4.5 negative? > > Jim g > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 8, 2010, at 7:30 PM, "Norlin Engineering" > > wrote: > > > Just reread this post, and I think I see the difference. I'm > > running 2 1/2 > > degrees camber up front and 4 1/2 in the back. Maybe the solid axle > > cars do > > need to run the higher pressures. > > > > Jim Norlin > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] > > On > > Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 5:13 PM > > To: Jim Gray; Mark Vaden > > Cc: FOT Triumph > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures > > > > > > "to cure for 24 hours. I understand there is some molecular > > realigning going on during the cure period. > > Jim G" > > > > FWIW - > > After talking with the Hoosier tech guys, this is what I gleaned: > > Heat cycle > > a minimum of 24 hours before race temps. 5+ days after > > heat cycle is preferred and anything under 24 hours doesn't do > > anything. 15-20% increase in tire life with proper curing procedure. > > Your results may vary but my results look to be at the high end ++. > > According to them, a 2000 lb car will reach maximum grip near max > > pressure of 41psi/cold. The trade-off will be less predictability and > > a abrupt break-away... Fine by me. > > That said, I run 38 front/36 rear cold on a 1977 lb, solid axle TR4 > > with -1/2deg camber up front. > > > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > > TR4 #314 > > Albuquerque NM > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > > norlinengineering at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 9 09:56:05 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 10:56:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America In-Reply-To: <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <218344.55065.qm@web57602.mail.re1.yahoo.com> <8CD1DE88596647E-BD0-7DF7@webmail-m076.sysops.aol.com> <578832.86038.qm@web58201.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joe and others in for RA. I guess I'm staying closer to home, Gonna take my GT6 to the British Car Fest instead. Sorry to miss the big race weekend. I decided to race to Blackhawk next weekend instead with MCSCC. Joe...Should I bring the Ambro Body and show that too? Good luck guys. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 10:04 AM, John Hornbostel wrote: > Joe, we'll be there. Staying in Sheb Falls at the Days Inn. > > Regards, > John H. > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: "n197tr4 at cs.com" > To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Wed, September 8, 2010 11:45:04 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > who all is going and where are you staying? > > i may leave rv home and find motel. > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ernest Husmann > To: FOT > Sent: Wed, Sep 8, 2010 10:14 pm > Subject: [Fot] ELVF-Rd America > > > Anyone going to Road America this weekend have a crew pass available? > > hanks, > > rnie > ______________________________________________ > ot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bentleyblvd at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 9 10:17:35 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:17:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Millville historic sept 24-25 Message-ID: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> Any one going to this race? I will be there as crew for a MGA, formula eve, and bugeye. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Thu Sep 9 10:18:14 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:18:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Greg That was a great read. Makes me feel almost normal. I sometimes have days like that where you don't even want to tell others the kind of crap that you just went through because it might come across like whinning or that you are a moron for getting into such a pickle. Thanks for sharing your adventure... Sounds like a friend who lost his ID and through a seies of screwball events found himself at a police staion trying to identify himself. In frustration, after not being able to identify himself to their satisfaction and after the police asking how they could be sure that he was who he said he was, he blurted out "Who the he11 would want to be me!" Paul -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: September 7, 2010 11:11 PM To: fot Triumph Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could The Plum Pi finally gave the death rattle. A lap from the end of Connie's race last Saturday she "sensed something" and brought it in although the temp and pressure were OK. From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 12:10:56 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:10:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] The Little Engine That Could In-Reply-To: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <562351.78044.qm@smtp106.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <93DB1F32-5192-4331-8C49-12A3E2C19703@bnj.com> That was a fun read, and way too close to home. On the All Aluminum Tour my airstream toy hauler (nero) shredded all six tires, one at a time at first with the grand finale being two on one side--fortunately in limping distance to a tire store. The tires "looked" great, but they couldn't handle the extra load. On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:18 AM, macdonaldp wrote: > Greg > > > That was a great read. Makes me feel almost normal. I sometimes have days > like that where you don't even want to tell others the kind of crap that you > just went through because it might come across like whinning or that you are > a moron for getting into such a pickle. > > Thanks for sharing your adventure... > > Sounds like a friend who lost his ID and through a seies of screwball events > found himself at a police staion trying to identify himself. In frustration, > after not being able to identify himself to their satisfaction and after the > police asking how they could be sure that he was who he said he was, he > blurted out "Who the he11 would want to be me!" > > Paul From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 12:25:02 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 11:25:02 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> Message-ID: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Oops, too long again. Begin forwarded message: > From: Bill Babcock > The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as well ask "what size pants are you wearing". A hundred pounds of total vehicle weight difference makes a tire pressure difference that's worth significant time on a race track and significant accelerated wear on tires. If you don't have a real tire pyrometer and test your temps then you are wasting money on good tires. > > Peyote hasn't worn out a set of tires in recent memory. They just heat cycle to the point that I'm losing time. I see racers with light cars with the center worn out of their tires and the edges still treaded. Overinflation, pure and simple. We don't have 400 horsepower and our cars don't weigh 2400 pounds--our tires shouldn't wear out from racing. If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. > > Chris, the engineer you were talking to is full of beans. If you have a 50 degree F difference between inside and outside it's either because the reading was taken after a long straight or the camber is wrong. Do the measurements on a skid pad and you can get the inside to outside measurement within 10F. Unless you are running full radial slicks I bet that won't be at 4.5 degrees. You MAY, however, be able to go faster on some tracks with excess camber just because it puts less tire on the ground down the straights. Overinflation does the same thing. Not the fast way around corners though. > > On Sep 9, 2010, at 8:08 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > >> Thanks for all that info guys. Ive been using up a set of fronts in about >> 100 laps on my gt6. Granted, I assume that my street t.d.'s are a little >> different... but what all this seems to be pointing to is that maybe I >> should drop the starting pressure from 27 a few pounds as my car is about >> 200-300 pounds lighter than your TR's. I think they rise about 8-10 pounds >> when hot but I feel like I should be getting a little more life out of the >> tires. Am I correct in thinking that a little less pressure will promote >> longevity? I'm not even going as fast as you guys....YET. >> >> Jason Ostrowski >> Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 >> On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 1:20 AM, MadMarx wrote: >> >>> A race engineer of a Porsche team said to me that the spread of temperature >>> on the tires, measured from outside to inside, should not exceed more than >>> 60F. >>> 50-60F is the optimum for racing. >>> >>> Cheers >>> Chris (who is running 4.5 degree at front) From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 9 12:31:25 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:31:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Millville historic sept 24-25 In-Reply-To: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> References: <1952C9FA-C1DE-4F71-BF82-B16E5A87DE05@aol.com> Message-ID: <0BC9C500-E220-474E-B8B8-11EDB17ACA3D@comcast.net> I will be there with the GT6. Scott Janzen BRG 1968 GT6 On Sep 9, 2010, at 12:17 PM, Christopher Bock wrote: Any one going to this race? I will be there as crew for a MGA, formula eve, and bugeye. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 12:44:41 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:44:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> Message-ID: <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> What the engineer was probably talking about is averaged differential temperatures on a track, probably using active measurement as you describe, which I (and probably most of the FOT) don't have access to. The number simply does you no good at all in static measurements that we are limited to. The outside of a tire on a track is cooled more by the airflow down straights. The amount of differential temperature is highly variable, depending on how you take the corners, how long the straights are, and what you were doing just before you stopped to take the measurements. It's of limited use, really only good for determining tire pressure. To set camber using tire temperatures you either need a short, tight track and a lot of experience or a skid pad. A skid pad can be anywhere there's a big enough patch of smooth pavement. You drive around in circles until you're tired of it, and check your tire temps. The inside and outside temps are much closer because you don't get enough speed to have highly variable cooling. Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. If you get a chance, show the engineer a printout of this email or just tell him what I said. I bet dollars to donuts he'd agree completely. The problem with taking advice from professionals is that we then have to translate what they say to suit both our cars and the limited tools we have. Not easy. On Sep 9, 2010, at 11:24 AM, MadMarx wrote: > Bill, > > The Porsche engineer belongs to the 24h winning team on the Nordschleife and > belongs also to the works testing team. > They do the temperature measurement with a datalogger during the test rides > with infrared sensors and surely also with this needle type probes in the > pits. > I also asked him about my camber. He said, show me photos of your car during > cornering. After he looked closely to the photos he said that my car suffers > from tire roll and I have to compensate it with more camber than usual. > Since I have gained the camber to this big value I gained 6 seconds on the > Assen track. > > The good thing with me is that I listen to people and try things. I most > cases professionals are right with their suggestions. > > Cheers > Chris From markvaden at gmail.com Thu Sep 9 14:30:27 2010 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 13:30:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: > > The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't > understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as > well ask "what size pants are you wearing". I think the reason I ask is for a starting point. I use a pyrometer to narrow it in, but on these tires the range specified by the manufacturer is significantly different than my previous tires. I figured since a lot of us drive TR4s they should all be reasonably close as a starting point. Likewise if I were in a country that measured their pants in mm or by some size instead of waist and length, I would probably ask a guy who was similar in size to myself what size pants he was wearing! -Mark From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 15:29:08 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 14:29:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <399D9E08-104D-44C4-AB72-1A6BDBE3F417@me.com> At the risk of seeming just argumentative, Hoosier, and most other manufacturers, don't really publish a starting pressure for racing tires, that's usually tire resellers. And the numbers I've seen for Hoosier A6/R6 are pretty much the same numbers I've seen for TDs and Speedster tires: For an 1800-2200 pound car its 26-31 cold. Note that it's a really big cold range. Peyote is about 1580 wet and with Speedsters I've settled in at 23.5# all the way around with a bit of fiddling depending on how hot I think the track is going to be. Depending on the track and the day that translates to 32# hot. If there's a reason to experiment we get a bunch of tire temps, find a HOT pressure that yields a center temp close to the inside and outside edge temps on all four tires, let it cool down overnight and read the cold temperature on each. Most production cars will yield a different value for the front and rear, and to a lesser degree side to side, mostly because of weight distribution. You write those down and that's your cold pressure for each corner. Peyote happens to be 50/50 front to rear and diagonally, with me standing in the seat. How Bill Ames knew back in 1959 I would weigh 245 is beyond me. I haven't driven many Triumph race cars that belong to other people, but I did drive Tony Drews, and I was struck by the fact that it handled almost exactly like Peyote. I also clearly remember the evil handling of my cheater TR3--it's why I started studying handling so intently. I also discovered you could take a car that intrinsically handled extremely well--like my Radical DSR--and with a little work screw it up so it becomes uncompetitive. The difference is attention to setup (suspension, brake bias, spring rates, etc.) and tire issues (pressure, alignment, camber). >>> The only way to get it right is tire temperatures. Honestly, I don't >> understand why people ask "what tire pressure are you using". You might as >> well ask "what size pants are you wearing". > > > I think the reason I ask is for a starting point. I use a pyrometer to > narrow it in, but on these tires the range specified by the manufacturer is > significantly different than my previous tires. I figured since a lot of us > drive TR4s they should all be reasonably close as a starting point. > Likewise if I were in a country that measured their pants in mm or by some > size instead of waist and length, I would probably ask a guy who was similar > in size to myself what size pants he was wearing! > > -Mark > _______________________________________________ From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 9 15:52:33 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 15:52:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: >> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because >> your camber is wrong. >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Sep 9 16:06:05 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 00:06:05 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <000001cb506b$34247b80$9c6d7280$@com> Now I'm off to sleep and start early in the morning to Zandvoort. I have to go there with some power loss as I have to run a very silent exhaust so Larry's cam can't work efficiently. But I hope it is not getting too bad with 10 HP less. Cheers Chris From billbab at me.com Thu Sep 9 19:31:27 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2010 18:31:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> Message-ID: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Wrong meaning if the tires were inflated to optimize the contact patch it would be shifted to one side of the tire or the other. But I know you know that. Have you ever considered moving the upper arm inner pivot inward a bit? I know that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line closer to the tie rod pivot. At some tracks though you may well be able to optimize your lap times with the "wrong" camber and over-inflated radial tires. Faster down the the straights, and not that much slower in the turns. I ran a set of R6s on Peyote briefly and discovered I could turn faster times at Road America with the tires overinflated and the camber cranked back a degree to 2.0. Those long straights demand low rolling friction. Watkins Glen was a tossup--the car was just as fast on Speedsters with the RIGHT camber and the R6s were pretty heat cycled out. And it felt better going over the bridge on Speedsters. On Sep 9, 2010, at 2:52 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. > >>> > While I basically agree, please define "wrong". > My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 9 20:04:57 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 19:04:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: Hmmm. Scratch that idea. I just went down and looked at the cheater TR3 that I based the notion on--that's not how it worked. I welded a plate onto the top pivot mount--or actually I think Colin Sparkes did. As I recall someone moved the pivot by making a bracket from a heavy angle iron that moved the pivot in half an inch. That might be pretty easy to do and would meet your criteria of being easy to remove without leaving holes. > > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the > pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new > holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an > inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber > gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease > bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner > pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the > lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think > they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line > closer to the tie rod pivot. From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 07:55:24 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:55:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? - Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, > McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 10 08:08:07 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:08:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 10 Sep 2010, Larry Young wrote: [stuff deleted] > The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? > - Larry Most race tracks have skid pads. So if you go on an open test day, fat city. I'll also point out that some autocross clubs will run test and tunes and these are a GREAT opportunity to dial in your tire pressures and temps for camber. In my region, we generally have a T&T each year and there are several clubs in the region that offer similar events. Failing that, a big parking lot works. Flat is best. But get permission from the owner. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 08:19:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:19:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Christian Marx new REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL DESIGN on eBAY Message-ID: <8CD1F0A5B0A1483-226C-BE6B@webmail-d042.sysops.aol.com> FOT, Chris' new seal design and my seal conversion kit is posted on eBay to test the market, if you want to look at it. I received 20 seals yesterday and 14 are spoken for. They will be available at TRF initially, too. BPNW, MOSS, and TRF will have the Centering Tool available initially,too. Thanks to Chris for making this available at his risk of tooling investment. Joe A From billb at bnj.com Fri Sep 10 08:51:50 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 07:51:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> References: <9D2AA63A1F234C6ABCCC3C53E44F1786@TOSHIBALAPTOP> <96E3526E-C260-4203-899C-8C21A7C721EB@comcast.net> <000901cb4fe7$1d521770$57f64650$@com> <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <000601cb504c$4cb666f0$e62334d0$@com> <8E89B648-7EBB-40B1-9FE0-D236700A5C3B@bnj.com> <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: <1872F8C3-70EA-455F-B32F-D9A702132B91@bnj.com> My skid pad was the parking lot of a building a friend owned. Unfortunately he sold the building. Really any large parking lot works fine as long as you can keep the car in a reasonably fast constant turn. It's not that big of a space but you need to be able to hold the turn and get up to some speed. On Sep 10, 2010, at 6:55 AM, Larry Young wrote: > Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. > > The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? > - Larry > > Bill Babcock wrote: >> Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, >> McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 08:51:46 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:51:46 EDT Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA Message-ID: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> FOT There's a number of shirts left from Topka...has a great shot of Kas in his TR3 on the back. See information below for cost. Contact me and I see that you get one or more. Thanks! I suggest that the FoT be advised that we have these shirts and that we will sell them at $8 each including shipping cost within the U.S.. From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 10 09:00:34 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:00:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 09:11:56 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 10:11:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> Message-ID: <4C8A4ABC.6090804@pobox.com> Bill, I've heard you describe this modification before. I'm not as knowledgeable on this subject as you, but I have trouble seeing how this helps. When I did the suspension on my TR3, I did a lot of measurements and used the Front Suspension Geometry Pro software to help figure things out. I also found the Puhn book on handling to be useful. At that time most people were shortening their upper A arms to increase negative camber, which moves the upper outer pivot inward. There was also the "Irv Corey" modification which moved the upper inner pivot inwards. This is done by mounting a piece of angle iron where the fulcrum would normally sit on top of the spring tower. Then two of the ears are cut off the fulcrum so it can be turned on it's side and mounted to the angle iron. I think either Irv or Jack sent me this sketch several years ago - www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/Irv_Korey_Mod.jpg. To get about -1.5 camber from stock would require this pivot to be moved about 0.5 inches. The software indicated that it didn't matter much whether the inner or outer pivot were moved laterally this amount. The software indicated you could make major improvements if you moved the fulcrum down by shortening the spring tower. This modification increases the camber gain which improves the camber when the body rolls in a turn. I think Jack told me he had seen this mod on someones car, perhaps Doug Karon's Ambro (current owner unknown). I never implemented this change, but I thought it was an interesting idea. Front Suspension Geometry Pro is not a very user friendly program. It requires you give all the dimensions in an awkward way. To save others from having to go through this, I wrote a report containing my measurements. Since it was written by an engineer, it is not the easiest report to read. Anyone that wants to get into this can download the report at - www.tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF. -Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the > pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new > holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an > inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases camber > gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also decrease > bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The inner > pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the > lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think > they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the line > closer to the tie rod pivot. From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 09:35:55 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:35:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <1363526095.1015349.1284132897383.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1245021414.1015413.1284132955155.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hey guys, Have you ever seen the Revington TR adjustable fulcrum pin. I installed one on my TR3. Pretty easy install with only slight mods. One includes welding the nuts to the bottom of the spring tower. You know, the ones that to remove them you have to take the spring out. If you weld them on, the pin can be removed or adjusted with out removing the spring. There are 2 other TR racers that I know of that use this kit. If you are curious check out their website. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "fot Triumph" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:00:34 AM Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net From billbab at me.com Fri Sep 10 09:37:27 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 08:37:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3A81A231-C582-4629-AAB2-115C7A1723F9@me.com> As far as I know they were not. That's why people shorten the upper arm, which causes as many problems as it fixes (exacerbates both camber gain and bump steer). If I were building a race car that adhered to the 62 GCR I'd still do the mod, but I'd make it removable as a bolt-in piece. On Sep 10, 2010, at 8:00 AM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: >> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? From s.janzen at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 09:38:14 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott janzen) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:38:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" wrote: >> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >> thing? > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving >> the pivot arm inwards > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of > suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM >> >>>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>>> because your camber is wrong. >>> >>>>> >>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >>> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >>> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >>> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >>> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >>> mile street car that it is. >>> >>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>> TR4 #314 >>> Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From rfdeanes at gmail.com Fri Sep 10 09:47:24 2010 From: rfdeanes at gmail.com (Robert Deanes) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:47:24 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes that was the fix and is still used, ARE (Joe A) has a bolt on part that is adjustable for that bar and there is in the states an adjustable upper a -arm that can be removed to go back to the "stock" upper arm..if that is your wish On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace > that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the > spring towers closer together, changing the camber? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" < > Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >>> thing? >>> >> Well... I guess it kinda' is for me >> >> >> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the >>> pivot arm inwards >>> >> Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of >> suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> >>> >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your >>>>>> camber is wrong. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be >>>> put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty >>>> interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been >>>> bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to >>>> the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>>> >>>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>>> TR4 #314 >>>> Albuquerque NM >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com From billbab at me.com Fri Sep 10 10:08:15 2010 From: billbab at me.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 09:08:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com> <94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com> <6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com> <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> <5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <34305590-6818-4922-A74D-0E0BF6B03E21@me.com> That would certainly work--sort of. On Sep 10, 2010, at 8:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" wrote: > >>> that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? >> Well... I guess it kinda' is for me >> >> >>> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards >> Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >>> >>>>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your camber is wrong. >>>> >>>>>> >>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>>> >>>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>>> TR4 #314 >>>> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri Sep 10 12:24:36 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 11:24:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <1245021414.1015413.1284132955155.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi AllI purchased one of their kits about a year and a half ago but have since decided not to use it. If anyone is interested in purchasing it please contact me off list for more info, etc desired. Regards,Dan Cronin --- On Fri, 9/10/10, davehogye wrote: From: davehogye Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber To: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Cc: "Bill Babcock" , "fot Triumph" Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 11:35 AM Hey guys, Have you ever seen the Revington TR adjustable fulcrum pin. I installed one on my TR3. Pretty easy install with only slight mods. One includes welding the nuts to the bottom of the spring tower. You know, the ones that to remove them you have to take the spring out. If you weld them on, the pin can be removed or adjusted with out removing the spring. There are 2 other TR racers that I know of that use this kit. If you are curious check out their website. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "fot Triumph" Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 8:00:34 AM Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin at ameritech.net From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Sep 10 13:18:11 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 14:18:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <361309.61605.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C8A8473.3030603@pobox.com> Ah, so you have Karon's Ambro. Your laser setup is trick. I did this back in 2003 and did everything with a homemade bumpsteer gauge and shop tools. I was able to measure a camber curve that matched the Triumph specs and get good agreement between the calculations and measurements. I spent a lot of time going back and forth between the shop and the computer. My report gives all the numbers I got, including when I compared moving the inner pivot versus shortening the A arms. Bill Babcock wrote: > I also used FSGP but I prefer SusProg3D, it's how I set Peyote up. I don't have my notebook here (in Hood River) but from memory, the amount of camber gain with the upper arm shortened increases substantially from an already too high value. I also directly measure camber gain and bump steer using a laser reflected off a very flat mirror onto graph paper stuck on the wall. The results are pretty shocking for stock TRs and most racing set ups. I'll take a look at the Ambro today (I'm on my way to Portland) --current owner is well known to me--it's me. I don't think the shock tower was modified. The Ambro has many handling problems and the suspension is more than a bit of a bodge. I'm in the process of peyotifying it. > > I ran hundreds of roll/bumps with suspension tweaks with FSGP and had a very hard time getting them to fit directly measured results. The biggest challenge seems to be that the trunnion cannot be properly represented in FSGP so you have to run two runs of every tweak and approximate. If the trunnion were a heim or ball joint the lateral pivot plane would be the same as the vertical plane--but it is offset by about 3/4". That's a big issue. Beven Young, who wrote SusProg3d added trunnion suspension options at my request, though looking at the marketing info for current version it seems to have slipped away--but I bet it's still really there. It's a lot better software, but it's expensive: A$335 though updates are always free and the support is terrific. I've had it since it first came available and Beven has never charged for anything since--even adding trunnions. > > As you say, the biggest challenge is getting the measurements. I had to build all kinds of tools to get them accurately. You also need a very flat floor. From kaskas at cox.net Fri Sep 10 13:28:25 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:28:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hoosier R6 tire pressures In-Reply-To: <4C8A38CC.8000203@pobox.com> Message-ID: <20100910152825.M9KN0.814360.imail@fed1rmwml36> I had a skid pad at Cal Sales in Gardena. It was actually a lot for parking about 500 cars but the shipments were late so it then became ala SKIDPAD. This is where I first tested and set the final for the camber compensater on the Spitfire and also the Detroit locker for the same car. Priceless how much you can learn in just a half hour. ---- Larry Young wrote: ============= Actually, the use of skid pads goes even further back. I recently read the biograph of Zora Arkus-Duntov (of GM/Corvette fame). He talked about the origins of the skd pad. Unfortunately, I can't remember the details. I believe he learned about it when he was in Germany (1930's or 40's). He networked a lot with Porsche and drove one to a class win at LeMans. He claimed he put the Porsche engineers onto using it in the early 1950's. The book is a good read even though I'm not a Corvette guy. The problem I've always had with skid pads is where can you find to do it? - Larry Bill Babcock wrote: > Nothing new in any of this, and I certainly didn't invent it. Penske, Donahue, > McLaren, and I'm sure Kastner knew all about it 40 years ago. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From kaskas at cox.net Fri Sep 10 13:38:06 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:38:06 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100910153806.2XS24.814473.imail@fed1rmwml36> You were not permitted to alter the control arms during the early years or switch out the ball joints or slot the holes for the ball joint.. I turned the pivot arm around and that gave some help , but then it was time to cut the cross tube and call it chassis repair. ---- "Greg "Lunker" Hilyer" wrote: ============= > that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some > religious thing? Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving > the pivot arm inwards Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM > >>>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>>> because your camber is wrong. >> >>>> >> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could >> also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked >> windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and >> all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise >> molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 >> mile street car that it is. >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From budscars at comcast.net Fri Sep 10 13:54:20 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 12:54:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP LAGUNA SECA Message-ID: Is Laguna Seca Kastner Cup 2011 or 2012? thanks Racer Bud From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 10 14:26:08 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:26:08 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-10-10 Message-ID: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> Amici, Here is the update for the Badge project as of 9-10-10. There are 43 badges committed to. Of these 37 have been paid for. The cost is $30 each. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1st. Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave., Vineland, NJ 08361) I have sent in the deposit of $200 to get things started. I will be getting an image of what it will look like in a few days. That will get posted to the Followers of FOT facebook page. This is a link to 5 images that show the preliminary idea of the Badge that I have posted on the facebook page today....... Grill badge Photos. The badges should be done and in the respective hands before Christmas. Thank you all Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 10 14:32:46 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 16:32:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-10-10 In-Reply-To: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> References: <9C0097CC-6985-47C9-ADE4-D9A8103CC8D7@aol.com> Message-ID: <97B3B0B4-9870-409E-9937-3474923AB830@aol.com> looks like the link didn't come threw. here it is.... cut and paste if need to.... http://www.facebook.com/photo.php? pid=31581352&o=all&op=1&view=all&subj=124727640888719&id=1398092718 On Sep 10, 2010, at 4:26 PM, christopher bock wrote: > Amici, > > Here is the update for the Badge project as of 9-10-10. > > There are 43 badges committed to. Of these 37 have been paid for. > The cost is $30 each. The deadline is NOVEMBER 1st. > > Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 > Italia Ave., Vineland, NJ 08361) > > I have sent in the deposit of $200 to get things started. I will be > getting an image of what it will look like in a few days. That will > get posted to the Followers of FOT facebook page. This is a link to > 5 images that show the preliminary idea of the Badge that I have > posted on the facebook page today....... Grill badge Photos. > > The badges should be done and in the respective hands before > Christmas. > > Thank you all > > Chris > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > seacubeco at aol.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 19:19:54 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:19:54 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: <20100910153806.2XS24.814473.imail@fed1rmwml36> Message-ID: <8CD1F6692F34E03-1BDC-26B93@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Taking from Kas' 'cut the tube' we made adjustable tube and can adjust the camber with heim joints. This is on two of our cars. The TR4 for about 8 years, and now on the Ambro.....looks good too, and easy to remove. Folks are asking for them, so Sean is going to put into production, if you are interested. I think some pictures are on photobucket.com/ambro -----Original Message----- From: Kas Kastner To: Bill Babcock ; Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Cc: fot Triumph Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 2:38 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber You were not permitted to alter the control arms during the early years or witch out the ball joints or slot the holes for the ball joint.. I turned the ivot arm around and that gave some help , but then it was time to cut the ross tube and call it chassis repair. --- "Greg "Lunker" Hilyer" wrote: ============= that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious thing? ell... I guess it kinda' is for me You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the pivot arm inwards ot that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of uspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer R4 #314 lbuquerque NM >>> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's >>> because your camber is wrong. > >>> > While I basically agree, please define "wrong". > My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could > also be put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked > windshield, ratty interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and > all. Nothing has ever been bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise > molested to prevent it from going back to the two owner, 75.000 > mile street car that it is. > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- ever be beaten by equipment ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 10 19:38:17 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:38:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mods for camber In-Reply-To: References: <14703571-8ED5-4E74-9EA8-66D706894B56@bnj.com><94FFC3F3-E73D-451D-907D-CB3D68085D4B@me.com><6FC379C6-16AD-4AAB-A25A-5D2FD37A40A1@me.com><681558BE-A6F3-4AB5-9A57-427CD366242C@earthlink.net><5D40E77D-172D-4E5C-A3E8-1FB1C9A3A72A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD1F6924A2696E-1BDC-26E0E@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> We have the 'camber control rod' and gary horskorta has an adjustable upper a arm. gary's is very cool and very adjustable....he has sold several after I put it in Classic Motorsports. Ours is cheaper and easy to remove with engine and looks good with anodized aluminum tube. (we have an order from one wife as a christmas present. we will likely do a one time run of 25 assemblies) -----Original Message----- From: Robert Deanes To: Scott janzen Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:47 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Mods for camber Yes that was the fix and is still used, ARE (Joe A) has a bolt on part that s adjustable for that bar and there is in the states an adjustable upper a arm that can be removed to go back to the "stock" upper arm..if that is our wish On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Scott janzen wrote: > I thought the fix to pass scrutiny back in the day was to shorten the brace that runs through the engine compartment in order to pull the tops of the spring towers closer together, changing the camber? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 10, 2010, at 11:00 AM, "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: that would violate the no-hole prescription--is that some religious >> thing? >> > Well... I guess it kinda' is for me > > > You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the >> pivot arm inwards >> > Not that I'm going to do it, but I am curious - Were those type of > suspension mods allowed back in the day - say 1962 GCR? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > >> >> If an overinflated tire makes your car handle better it's because your >>>>> camber is wrong. >>>>> >>>> >>> >>>>> While I basically agree, please define "wrong". >>> My car has .5 degrees of hard gotten negative camber. It could also be >>> put in full street trim in about 5 hours - cracked windshield, ratty >>> interior, stock ride height, skinny wheels and all. Nothing has ever been >>> bent, cut, drilled, or otherwise molested to prevent it from going back to >>> the two owner, 75.000 mile street car that it is. >>> >>> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>> TR4 #314 >>> Albuquerque NM >>> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rfdeanes at gmail.com ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From mark at bradakis.com Fri Sep 10 21:52:51 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:52:51 -0600 Subject: [Fot] KASTNER CUP LAGUNA SECA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C8AFD13.6010204@bradakis.com> RACER BUD wrote: > Is Laguna Seca Kastner Cup 2011 or 2012? > 2011, next year, coming up sooner than you might think. mjb. From igofaster at att.net Sun Sep 12 07:28:45 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:28:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA In-Reply-To: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> References: <54820.660b018a.39bba002@cs.com> Message-ID: <708724.86196.qm@web180808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> although engine problems didn't allow me to make it to Topeka... I think I bought two tee shirts.... was it from Lunker? Bobby ________________________________ From: "N197TR4 at cs.com" To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: GSFuqua1 at aol.com; brinke at cebridge.net Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 9:51:46 AM Subject: [Fot] Official Kastner Cup Shirts from TOPEKA FOT There's a number of shirts left from Topka...has a great shot of Kas in his TR3 on the back. See information below for cost. Contact me and I see that you get one or more. Thanks! I suggest that the FoT be advised that we have these shirts and that we will sell them at $8 each including shipping cost within the U.S.. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/igofaster at att.net From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Sep 12 21:13:04 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:13:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 Message-ID: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> I just got home from the YeeHaw 24 Hours of Lemons race in Houston where we campaigned a recently assembled rust bucket 1970 TR6. It was quite an experience but we shot ourselves in the foot too many times to have a good finish. You can see a few pictures of the car by checking out the YeeHaw coverage on Jalopnik. The really liked my clear coated rusty valve cover. http://jalopnik.com/5636123/and-the-real-winner-is Saturday was going well for us. We got through our first rotation of 6 drivers and were feeling pretty good. Driver one gat back out and proceeded to collect 2 black flags in about 5 minutes. The second one resulted in a broken wheel stud and bent swaybar mounts. The repair was difficult because we only had brought rear hubs as spares leaving a freshly machined rotor and hub was behind by accident. The next driver proceeded to go off in the picture shown on Jalopnik and collect black flag number 3. Lemon's rules are 4 black flags in a day and you are done for the weekend so we had to park it at 2:00 or so. Sunday started out much the same. We got black flagged after 4 laps for dumping fuel. They thought it was our overflow line which didn't have a check valve, We should have put on in but that wasn't the problem. We had incorrectly installed the access/fill cover after removing the cell foam, and it was leaking around the cover. Not a good thing at all. It took us hours to find a suitable tip over valve so we only raced about half of the day. We were chasing a severe miss that continued to get worse as the day progressed but the lap times didn't change as the drivers got better. When I drove it I though our TR6 really handled well so I can't explain the spins. I got in it this afternoon and very few cars passed me while I had a lot of fun passing more cars in one session than I ever have in my life. It was nice to be able to out brake almost everybody, be able to drive an inside line on almost everyone. I'd immediately pass the guys that just passed me on the straight, the old crossover move. Then another straight and they'd take it back. I know there was some metal to metal contact, but I didn't see any. The driving was great but the only problem area that I saw was the traffic jams that occured whenever a yellow came out. You could run up on that line right after passing a station that wasn't displaying yellow. My biggest frustration with this whole thing was how many mistakes we made. Not everyone understands was race car prep should look like, and it is hard to tell them and hard to check everything they do. Not to say I didn't make some too. We put together a car in a matter of weeks from a basket case, we should have started sooner. I got to use a lot of old parts that I've taken off my cars. I used the rear springs and swaybars that came on my TR4A. '60's vintahe stuff. I cut dowm some TRF comp springs for the fronts and then had to cut some more to fix ridde height. Remember those comp springs? They were the rallye height springs that some many of us bought. Mistake included the fuel cell. We bought a used one that had one year old foam that was disintegrating. We put in new foam and then found out that ethanol fuel hurts the foam. It was in there already but we pulled it in trying to find a fuel delivery problem. We didn't check the distributor in our junkyard dog and the advance wasn't working. We tried to run on increased static advance but we couldn't get it to rev over 4500. We'd time it in the pits and think we had it but it would get some centrifical advance at extended runs with the pedal to the floor. I'm rambling, look at Jalopnik and tell me if you'd like more. Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Sep 12 21:18:03 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:18:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] moreJalopnik posts that cover our TR6 Message-ID: http://jalopnik.com/people/murileemartin/posts/ Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi From jason at multivintage.com Mon Sep 13 09:15:52 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:15:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] moreJalopnik posts that cover our TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Looks like a slightly less refined group than those attending the Kastner Cup. Nice Job...This looks fun and pretty crazy. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Bob Kramer wrote: > http://jalopnik.com/people/murileemartin/posts/ > > Bob Kramer > Volente, TX > > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From jason at multivintage.com Mon Sep 13 09:36:21 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 10:36:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY Message-ID: I guess Its GT6 month On Ebay... Here's another one for sale. This one has seen a bit more track time. Looks quite developed in the lightness category. Right hand Drive. Very smoothed bodywork. Not sure its very legal to most vintage specs but sure looks Fast and COOL. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Triumph-GT6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb0c6e270QQitemZ260663861872QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ5fLegalQ5f Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Sep 13 10:28:10 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:28:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100913162810.N1JQI.22504.root@cdptpa-web23-z01> If there is any interest in this car, I looked at personally about two months ago. Let me know what you would like to know. It does have a TR6 motor, TR7 gear box and an open diff in it. The smooth body work is all quite well done in steel with very little if any filler. Bob ---- Jason Ostrowski wrote: > I guess Its GT6 month On Ebay... Here's another one for sale. This one has > seen a bit more track time. Looks quite developed in the lightness category. > Right hand Drive. Very smoothed bodywork. Not sure its very legal to most > vintage specs but sure looks Fast and COOL. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-Triumph-GT6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb0c6e270QQitemZ260663861872QQptZRaceQ5fCarsQ5fNotQ5fStreetQ5fLegalQ5f > > > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Sep 13 10:36:13 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:36:13 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> First lap at Zandvoort.....(where does all these cars come from...there were none of them in the beginning) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpDL9YkDX1Q Cheers Chris From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Sep 13 12:27:40 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:27:40 EDT Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY Message-ID: To my eye this is a lovely car and seems well worth the opening bid. I've watched it for a couple of years and for some unknown reason it's "The Irish Car" in my mind. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Sep 13 13:31:36 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:31:36 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> References: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> Message-ID: <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> And the full race: http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5516438328196705922 The OD passed away after 5 laps and I lost some top speed. Cheers Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 13 15:17:42 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:17:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Zandvoort II In-Reply-To: <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> References: <000901cb5361$c982b270$5c881750$@com> <4C8E7778.1010309@pobox.com> <002301cb537a$48d623a0$da826ae0$@com> Message-ID: Cool video! at first when I saw the spedo I was shocked to see 190 (mph), then I realized that the page was in German and it was 190 KPH (118mph) Still cool! I hope I can get some good video from my friend in two weeks at NJMP Chris On Sep 13, 2010, at 3:31 PM, MadMarx wrote: > And the full race: > > http://picasaweb.google.de/tr4racing/TR4Racing#5516438328196705922 > > The OD passed away after 5 laps and I lost some top speed. > > Cheers > Chris > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > seacubeco at aol.com From kaskas at cox.net Mon Sep 13 15:35:33 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:35:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Anyone have a report? -- Never be beaten by equipment From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 15:49:32 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:49:32 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <15143992.1284414572793.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi Kas Chequered Flag Racing had a clean sweep. Joseph Siam FP 1147 Gary Shuman DP 1300 and John Wilkins old Spit racer won CP Datsun 240Z. Joe -----Original Message----- >From: Kas Kastner >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? > >Anyone have a report? >-- >Never be beaten by equipment >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsiam1 at earthlink.net > > Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From capecoventryracing at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:56:28 2010 From: capecoventryracing at gmail.com (John Nikas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:56:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: On another note, Mark Vaden, Mike Bruner and Alec MacArthur drove great races such that they finished 2d, 3d and 5th in DP to Shuman's Spitfire. Steve Belfer was ridiculously quick to finish 2d in E Production while I finished 2d in DPX to a 66 427 Corvette while driving a borrowed 240Z. On Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM, "Kas Kastner" wrote: > Anyone have a report? > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/capecoventryracing at gmail.com From capecoventryracing at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:56:28 2010 From: capecoventryracing at gmail.com (John Nikas) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:56:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: On another note, Mark Vaden, Mike Bruner and Alec MacArthur drove great races such that they finished 2d, 3d and 5th in DP to Shuman's Spitfire. Steve Belfer was ridiculously quick to finish 2d in E Production while I finished 2d in DPX to a 66 427 Corvette while driving a borrowed 240Z. On Sep 13, 2010 2:35 PM, "Kas Kastner" wrote: > Anyone have a report? > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/capecoventryracing at gmail.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 16:03:56 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:03:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? In-Reply-To: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> References: <20100913173533.F062L.861533.imail@fed1rmwml45> Message-ID: Buttonwillow was blast! Not a very big turnout but fun all the same. Lots of good Triumph battles out there. I was doing a pretty good job in the TR3 and had some good passes with Mike Bruner. I got him really good in the practice. He got me back and Mark Vaden in the TR4 started from the back and gained 16 positions to finish 2nd in D. Fun times. Nikas was in a z-car going very quickly around the course, setting new personal best times around the track. ~Steve On Sep 13, 2010, at 2:35 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: Anyone have a report? -- Never be beaten by equipment _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 13 17:11:02 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:11:02 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? Message-ID: <19970968.1284419462737.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Thanks John and Steven for filling in more details. I was so busy with my 2 renters Bill,Rick and Jerry my new guy I didn't get a chance to watch the race as we were in the next group. Joe -----Original Message----- >From: Steven Belfer >Sent: Sep 13, 2010 3:03 PM >To: Kas Kastner >Cc: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Fot] Race report from Button willow? > >Buttonwillow was blast! Not a very big turnout but fun all the same. >Lots of good Triumph battles out there. I was doing a pretty good job >in the TR3 and had some good passes with Mike Bruner. I got him >really good in the practice. He got me back and Mark Vaden in the TR4 >started from the back and gained 16 positions to finish 2nd in D. Fun >times. Nikas was in a z-car going very quickly around the course, >setting new personal best times around the track. > >~Steve > > > > >On Sep 13, 2010, at 2:35 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > >Anyone have a report? >-- >Never be beaten by equipment >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsiam1 at earthlink.net > > Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From cwnfot at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 18:57:56 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:57:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Another GT6 on EBAY In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f001cb53a7$df500bc0$9df02340$@com> I can't understand why there is so little description about the car and its features. Very odd. Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 13 19:12:51 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:12:51 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Axle shims Message-ID: I'm putting together a TR3 for the street, and can't seem to find any reference for how to shim the axles. On race cars I always just made sure they weren't pressing on each other. I have some of the old uprated axles and a Quaife rear end that I'm sticking in. Being more fussy than I would be for racing. Don't want it to be noisy. From dlhogye at comcast.net Mon Sep 13 19:19:25 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 01:19:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request In-Reply-To: <1094361865.1156549.1284427124859.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello FoT, I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. Thanks in advance, Dave H. From tr6driver at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 19:21:24 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:21:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 In-Reply-To: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> References: <7040551E21284E94B4658C7217617AE1@latitudefb1e41> Message-ID: <434206.62661.qm@web52507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Great race report, Bob! Now, all we have to do is figure out a way to get the two "low budget endurance racing" TR6's together at the same venue :-) Our next race is the "Not Quite 12 Hours of Sebring" (11 hrs, 29 minutes...don't ask me!) on September 25-26. I hope we're able to improve on our 14th and 17th at Roebling Road...after we are pretty sure we've fixed the vapor lock (important) and the oil leakage (very important) and made a few more performance enhancements (like actually using aluminum wheels instead of stock TR6 ones). Love the shot from the rear! Sorry you had the black flag issue to deal with...I think that's the major reason we're racing ChumpCar rather than Lemons. Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing #0 '75 TR6 ChumpCar http://riffrafracing.blogspot.com (needs updating, I know...) ________________________________ From: Bob Kramer To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, September 12, 2010 11:13:04 PM Subject: [Fot] Lemon's TR6 I just got home from the YeeHaw 24 Hours of Lemons race in Houston where we campaigned a recently assembled rust bucket 1970 TR6. It was quite an experience but we shot ourselves in the foot too many times to have a good finish. You can see a few pictures of the car by checking out the YeeHaw coverage on Jalopnik. The really liked my clear coated rusty valve cover. From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Mon Sep 13 19:46:46 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:46:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Weekend Update Message-ID: <02ed01cb53ae$fcb38730$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi all, here's the scoop on the Watkins Glen Vintage GP held over the weekend. The weather was crappy Friday AM and most of Sunday; most of the folks cleared out by Sunday noon. There were seven Triumphs there; 4 Spits, a TR3, a 4A, Dick Stockton's TR4, and my TR6. Dick was fastest of the TR bunch with a 2:22.8. I knocked off 10 seconds from last year and did a 2:44.9. Getting better. In the Sat afternoon qualifier, I went through the last turn, saw the checker waving, and shifted into 4th. With no results! I coasted across the line and finished with no drive. We think the clutch disc gave it up. Several folks helped me check it out; we all figured it was the disc. It's a PITA to change, so I spectated the rest of the weekend. Thanks for the help Scott, Dick, and Allen, and others. Bill From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 13 20:13:27 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:13:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Axle shims In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063201cb53b2$6f8c2250$0301a8c0@randall> > I'm putting together a TR3 for the street, and can't seem to find any > reference for how to shim the axles. On race cars I always > just made sure they > weren't pressing on each other. It's in the TR3 appendix to the factory workshop manual. Basically it says to check for .004" to .006" endplay at either hub, with the shim packs roughly equal between sides (to keep the center button in the center). Randall From klynch_6 at msn.com Mon Sep 13 20:41:32 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:41:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Irish car Message-ID: Was thinking the same thing Steve... ;= ) From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Sep 14 08:40:12 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 09:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request In-Reply-To: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <667442063.1156567.1284427165265.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C8F894C.2060504@pobox.com> I contemplated this change on my TR3, but decided against it based on advice from one of the FoT. When you compare the brake pads, you will notice the TR3 pad is significantly larger. More pad means better stopping power. I think that is more important than weight. Besides, your conscience will feel better because you will be pure TR3. Larry On 9/13/2010 8:19 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello FoT, > I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. > Thanks in advance, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com From BillDentin at aol.com Tue Sep 14 09:33:33 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 11:33:33 EDT Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Message-ID: <35a94.3c6ff1e5.39c0efcd@aol.com> In a message dated 09/14/2010 9:40:43 AM Central Daylight Time, cartravel at pobox.com writes: > I contemplated this change on my TR3, but decided against it based on > advice from one of the FoT. When you compare the brake pads, you will > notice the TR3 pad is significantly larger. More pad means better > stopping power. I think that is more important than weight. Besides, > your conscience will feel better because you will be pure TR3. > I agree with Larry! Bill Dentinger From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 14 09:45:59 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:45:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Thanks for the brake info In-Reply-To: <2145791240.1179938.1284479042931.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1155098294.1180063.1284479159180.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> This group is amazing, Thanks to everyone for the information, insightful comments and offering of the parts that I'll need to make the brake change. I really appreciate the FoT. Dave H. From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Tue Sep 14 15:55:32 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 17:55:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Joe Downer Message-ID: Joe Your check has arrived Thank you Chris From rocky at spitfire4.com Tue Sep 14 17:13:35 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 18:13:35 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > Does anyone really believe that it extends the life of > their race motor? > > -- Randall Absolutely! Before I began racing, I used to see guys at the track routinely go under the hood, pull the distributor, then take a speed wrench or a cordless drill and pump up oil pressure (then have to re-set and static-time the distributor) before starting the engine. First thing I saw when I learned what an Accusump was, was the lack of any need to do that. That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and another in 1980. Haven't really had an oil-related problem since. Oh, I've invented plenty of other problems since then, but adequate oil pressure, especially on startup, hasn't been one of them. Accusump is cheap insurance. --Rocky Entriken From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 14 19:02:37 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 01:02:37 GMT Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Message-ID: <20100914.210237.13237.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> The TR6 parts will bolt directly on to the TR3 uprights. it is an easy conversion. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: davehogye To: Fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR3 to TR6 front brake interchange parts and info request Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 01:19:25 +0000 (UTC) Hello FoT, I'm interested in making the change to TR6 brakes on my TR3. I've purchased a new set of calipers and it looks like I'll be needing to change the caliper carrier/mount as well as 10.75" discs. Will the TR6 carrier bolt to the TR3 upright? If not I'll need the 6 upright and steering arm as well. Can anyone share some info on this change? I'll also be needing to purchase the parts for the change other than the calipers and discs. Does anyone have them available? This change has been recommended to me as a vintage legal option. I noticed about a 5 pound weight savings per side in the calipers alone. It seems like a good change to me. Also does anyone know of the difference between the earlier and later TR6 calipers. The earlier version is referred as a 16P. Thanks in advance, Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Moms Asked to Return to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c901b52e0e77bc928bst01duc From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 14 23:30:32 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 22:30:32 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> > That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and > another in 1980. At startup? Randall From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 00:19:25 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 23:19:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am completely convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life of my engines. I know how the bearing used to look before I started using one, and how they look these days. I know how frequently I used to see oil pressure drop in hard corners, or hear the clatter of an underlubed engine when I couldn't spare a glance at the guages, and how often I wouldn't see any significant pressure for several agonizing seconds after starting. I know how long my engines last these days--counted in seasons, not races. It's as close to a dry sump as we are likely to get with these cars, and it offers benefits that standard dry sumps don't. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 15 02:21:40 2010 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 01:21:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> Message-ID: <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> > While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am > completely > convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life > of my engines. I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. Randall From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:00:54 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:00:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to understand where you are headed with this notion. Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >> completely >> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >> of my engines. > > I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit > bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. > > My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have > just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil > leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing > load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). > > OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly > does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some > benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. > > Randall From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 09:17:32 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:17:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:01 AM To: Randall Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to understand where you are headed with this notion. Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >> completely >> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >> of my engines. > > I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit > bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. > > My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have > just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil > leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing > load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). > > OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly > does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some > benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. > > Randall _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:18:05 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:18:05 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Incidentally, babbit bearing don't just need oil under pressure to cool them, they require pressure to build a wedge on the leading edge of the load area. And Babbit bearing are not primitive, they are often the best choice for modern high load applications. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are > babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A > residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains > away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job > of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for > the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's > sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when > there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done > it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to > understand where you are headed with this notion. > > Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately > see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and > see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> >>> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >>> completely >>> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >>> of my engines. >> >> I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit >> bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. >> >> My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have >> just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil >> leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing >> load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). >> >> OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly >> does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some >> benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 09:27:45 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:27:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall><78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com><090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <8CD2301AE32D931-1938-ED2@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> I'm in complete agreement here, the average race car system has a lot of volume to fill, hoses, filter, cooler, before it builds up pressure. Another point that should be mentioned, it is SOP on any race car to pull plugs & spin it over for oil pressure before the first start of the day. Obviously the accusump does away with that... Glen I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for the oil pressure to show. From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 09:30:50 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:30:50 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall><78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com><090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Message-ID: <8CD23021C9060E2-1938-F7E@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> Yes it helps. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Tim Murphy To: 'Bill Babcock' ; 'Randall' Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 15, 2010 11:17 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. Tim From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 09:54:13 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:54:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> Message-ID: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 10:43:13 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:43:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear reduction starter which should help. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 10:53:23 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:53:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> Message-ID: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 11:14:00 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:14:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> Message-ID: <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it easy on it. They aren't cheap. On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear > reduction starter which should help. > > Tim > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're > probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if > you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're > sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, > distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it > up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for > your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is > fully pressurized. > > Hmm, I wonder which is better. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the > oil >> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would >> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a >> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >> >> Tim From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:18:52 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:18:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> Message-ID: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 15 11:29:28 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 17:29:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> Message-ID: <361124353.522022.1284571768846.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I've had my issues with the gear reduction starters too. It seems Chris Marx has cured our rear main woes, I wonder if we can get him to have a look at a better starterB ? Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Tim Murphy" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 11:14:00 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it easy on it. They aren't cheap. On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear > reduction starter which should help. > > Tim > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're > probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if > you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're > sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, > distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it > up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for > your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is > fully pressurized. > > Hmm, I wonder which is better. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the > oil >> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would >> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a >> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >> >> Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 11:34:34 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:34:34 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <148985.e3c7836.39c25ae8@aol.com> References: <148985.e3c7836.39c25ae8@aol.com> Message-ID: <5EF28D7B-AF7F-4227-90D7-9833A924373B@bnj.com> Yeah, I've fixed a few too, but it's a lot of work. Usually it's just the field coil wire coming unstuck because of heat. I'd rather use them for starting instead of pre-oiling. On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:22 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/15/2010 12:14:35 PM Central Daylight Time, billb at bnj.com writes: > > >> Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it >> easy on it. They aren't cheap. > > > We have an outfit near by rewind/rewire our starters when they go down. I think we pay about $85 for that. > > Bill Dentinger From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Sep 15 12:11:31 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:11:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD23188EE6C749-2F0-BCB@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com> I have most of my bearings done by Polymer Dynamics in Texas, mains & rods. The thickness is usually a couple tenths (I think they call out .0002-.0004), per shell, and it absolutely must be accounted for when calling out the crank regrind spec, if you are building to a reasonable degree of accuracy. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: Tim Murphy Cc: Randall ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 15, 2010 1:18 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 15 13:12:44 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:12:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] GT6 Racer - Fenton, MI Message-ID: <339033.11056.qm@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270632682622&viewitem NFI Doug Mitchell From jerrybarr at charter.net Wed Sep 15 13:18:29 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 14:18:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> Back when I was in the diesel engine business and before, as far as I know before accusump, CAT came up with a prelub starter. it had a position on the ignition for prelub and then to start the engine. To start you would turn to position 1 and run the prelub pump then continue to start. At the time it seemed like a good idea and worked well. On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > I really doubt that residual oil is sufficient, for the same reason: These are > babbit bearing, not rollers. They require oil under pressure to work. A > residual film doesn't do much, and under the weight of the crank it drains > away to nearly nothing in a short time. The oil passages seem to do a good job > of draining too. Without an accusump there is always a few seconds waiting for > the oil pressure to show. I can't see a reason to rely on faith that it's > sufficient, when all the evidence at hand tells me it isn't. Especially when > there's a ready alternative. I don't do many things because "I've always done > it that way". I generally have a reason, and in this case it's hard for me to > understand where you are headed with this notion. > > Seriously, which would you rather do, turn your ignition on and immediately > see 20 pounds of oil pressure before you start the engine, or turn it on and > see no oil pressure for five seconds after the engine started? > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 1:21 AM, Randall wrote: > >> >>> While I certainly have not done any scientific testing, I am >>> completely >>> convinced that running an accusump greatly extends the life >>> of my engines. >> >> I have no doubt of that. When running under load, those primitive babbit >> bearings require a constant flow of oil to keep them cool. >> >> My question was solely about pre-lubing before startup. Unless you have >> just assembled the engine without assembly lube, IMO there is plenty of oil >> leftover to cover a second or two of idling (meaning very little bearing >> load, and very little heat generated through bearing losses). >> >> OTOH, I understand that you've "always done it that way", and it certainly >> does no harm. Wouldn't want to take a chance on it actually having some >> benefit. So carry on, and don't mind me. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 13:46:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:46:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump In-Reply-To: <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <460B0014-7524-4120-AE38-19E089B65AF0@charter.net> Message-ID: Oil accumulators come out of the aviation world. Canton has been supplying them to motorsports for 20 years. There ARE some engine builders that don't like them, generally from experience with clueless drivers who open the manual ball valve on an empty accusump at startup and rob oil pressure. So don't do that. Either throttle the accusump until it reaches normal system pressure or install an electric valve. Not only do the electric valves reduce the likelihood of emptying the sump because you forgot to close the valve prior to shutting off the engine, but they also throttle the filling to prevent robbing pressure. That's why they are a bit expensive--they are not simple solenoid valves, they have some trick regulator bits in them. Summit has a barebones 1 1/2 quart moroso accumulator for $69. Add a manual valve for $13 and a little plumbing and you're in biz. Electric valves are about $120 and worth it IMHO. The barebones sump doesn't have a air side pressure gauge, but you can read that with your tire pressure gauge and save fifty bucks. Plumb it straight to the oil gallery and you don't need much tubing, fittings, and you don't need a check valve. Simple as bricks. > Back when I was in the diesel engine business and before, as far as I know before accusump, CAT came up with a prelub starter. it had a position on the ignition for prelub and then to start the engine. To start you would turn to position 1 and run the prelub pump then continue to start. At the time it seemed like a good idea and worked well. > On Sep 15, 2010, at 10:00 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 15 15:43:04 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 16:43:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <004101cb551e$fb1f1850$f15d48f0$@com> Ibve been told that the coating is so thin that the journal size does not have to be changed to accommodate it. I think it may even say that on Calicobs web site. I wouldnbt think 0.00025 to 0.00030 inches added to the bearing thickness would make too much difference, granted thatbs a half a thousandth on the diameter. I have found that measuring the bearing bore, the bearing shell thickness and the crank journal can add up to probably an error of +/- 0.0002 to 0.0003 just in the stack up of the estimated measuring error. That is unless you have access to some really good calibrated metrology equipment. Measuring to 1/10,000 of an inch is pretty darn hard, even with good equipment. Tim From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net [mailto:toodamnfunky at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:19 PM To: Tim Murphy Cc: Randall; fot at autox.team.net; Bill Babcock Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 - .30 mil. ( per Calico ) In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the bearings. Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with the allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. Jim G ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Murphy" To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other folks are using on the TRactor motors. I would think that would also help prolong the life with a "cold" start. I don't know which coating the machine shop sent them out for. I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. Tim -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM To: Tim Murphy Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is fully pressurized. Hmm, I wonder which is better. On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the oil > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > Tim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From billb at bnj.com Wed Sep 15 19:51:44 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 18:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com><08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Ten or fifteen years, give or take a few. There is a known problem with the field coil winding overheating and yanking it's wire loose. I know Ted Schumacher's starters no longer do that, but all of these motors are a bit fragile--way better than stock, but I have lots of pieces of them. Tony Garmey always keeps a spare or two, I always kept two. I have to say that I'm searching back in memory to talk about this stuff. These days I show up, drive the car in practice, tell Tony what I think. Hang out, take a nap or talk with people knowing my car will be ready and in tip-top condition. Go out and break my personal lap record. I'm pretty sure having Horizon Racing do the work is actually cheaper than doing it all myself. It is certainly an order of magnitude more professional. Especially if you factor in a F350, a 34' Airstream, a huge house with a 1500 square foot shop under it, and all the specialized equipment I bought over the years to play with this stuff. I think my Miller Synchrowave Welder would pay for a good part of a year with Horizon racing. Of course if I didn't have it how would I melt, distort and otherwise screw up all those pieces of aluminum and stainless. Very civilized. And Annie cooks lunch and dinner. Sheesh. On Sep 15, 2010, at 5:22 PM, Greg & Alison Blake wrote: > Interesting. In how long of a period? Do you think it is heat related? > > Thanks, > > Greg > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bill Babcock > Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:14 PM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > > Having toasted my fifth or sixth gear reduction starter I would say take it > easy on it. They aren't cheap. > > On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:43 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > >> Our separate ignition switch cuts power to the coil and we have the gear >> reduction starter which should help. >> >> Tim >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] >> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM >> To: Tim Murphy >> Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump >> >> Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're >> probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course > if >> you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're >> sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, >> distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it >> up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for >> your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is >> fully pressurized. >> >> Hmm, I wonder which is better. >> >> On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: >> >>> Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the >> oil >>> pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? If would >>> seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite > a >>> bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. >>> >>> Tim > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2 at austin.rr.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 00:04:17 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 01:04:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump & bearing coatings In-Reply-To: <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emer yville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002b01cb54f6$830fa640$892ef2c0$@com> <1780247622.521589.1284571132560.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100916060349.2A5B618767D@autox.team.net> I coat both the main and rod bearings. The coating is thin enough you don't need any additional allowance for it. It makes a huge difference in visible wear during teardown even when running an accusump. One other thing to mention regarding the accusump pre-lube at start: we're running high compression and high loads in the valve train - much higher than on a street car. And, cranks, rods and cams are VERY expensive. Anything we can do to prevent metal to metal is worth installing. - Tony At 12:18 PM 9/15/2010, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >I read on Tony's site that he uses Calico for bearing coatings applied at .25 >- .30 mil. > >( per Calico ) > >In my upcoming build I plan to cryo treat and nitride the crank and coat the >bearings. > > > >Does anyone know if an allowance needs to be made for the bearing coating when > >cutting a crank? and should the rod bearings be coated as well and again with >the > >allowance for the coating on the rod bearings. > > > >Jim G > > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Tim Murphy" >To: "Bill Babcock" >Cc: "Randall" , fot at autox.team.net >Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:53:23 AM >Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > >One other thing, we're using the coated bearings which I know some other >folks are using on the TRactor motors. B I would think that would also help >prolong the life with a "cold" start. B I don't know which coating the >machine shop sent them out for. B I think it was to the guy here in Wisconsin >who I had heard more or less invented the bearing coating when he was >working at Mirro Aluminum and doing work on coated pots and pans. > >Tim > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bill Babcock [mailto:billb at bnj.com] >Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 10:54 AM >To: Tim Murphy >Cc: 'Randall'; fot at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump > >Probably only worthwhile if you pull the plugs first, otherwise you're >probably shortening the life of an already overworked starter. Of course if >you do that make sure you disconnect the power lead to the coil, or you're >sending sparks everywhere and shortening the life of an overworked coil, >distributor, and plug wires. Then reconnect everything quickly and fire it >up. Or flip on the ignition switch with an accusump connected and wait for >your oil pressure to peak at 20 pounds and start it while the system is >fully pressurized. > >Hmm, I wonder which is better. > >On Sep 15, 2010, at 8:17 AM, Tim Murphy wrote: > > > Is there any advantage to cranking the engine without ignition until the >oil > > pressure comes up and then flipping the ignition on to fire it? B If would > > seem the loads on the bearings with just cranking it over would be quite a > > bit less, and less damaging, than actually firing the engine immediately. > > > > Tim >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 16 01:20:58 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 02:20:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Bill, Going out on a limb here. All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. Your comments are usually very insightful and helpful and correct. However, rarely geared toward the understanding of a racer on a budget...even when questions are being asked by racers on a budget. I would love to have an acusump, tire temp gauge, plenty of every conceivable spare, etc... but right now I just try to race with what I have within the boundaries of what I can afford. I put all I can into my race car but I cannot afford all the best equipment for every single part or accessory. I just thank the Racing Gods every weekend I get out on track. I'm using my last 300 bucks of spending money for this month to fill my cooler and enter a race this weekend. I hope being up late in the garage every night this week with greasy hands will reward me with leaving a few Porches in the dust. My friends and family do the same work of a top paid mechanic....for BEER. Somehow I think the rewards of racing are greater if you can compete (with less) on the same level of those spending more money and having more means to win. Sorry to get all Philosophical but I always root for the underdog. And I would stay up all night to get a fellow competitor in the race. That's the Friendly Ghost way. Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Wed, Sep 15, 2010 at 8:51 PM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Ten or fifteen years, give or take a few. There is a known problem with > the > field coil winding overheating and yanking it's wire loose. I know Ted > Schumacher's starters no longer do that, but all of these motors are a bit > fragile--way better than stock, but I have lots of pieces of them. Tony > Garmey > always keeps a spare or two, I always kept two. > > I have to say that I'm searching back in memory to talk about this stuff. > These days I show up, drive the car in practice, tell Tony what I think. > Hang > out, take a nap or talk with people knowing my car will be ready and in > tip-top condition. Go out and break my personal lap record. > > I'm pretty sure having Horizon Racing do the work is actually cheaper than > doing it all myself. It is certainly an order of magnitude more > professional. > Especially if you factor in a F350, a 34' Airstream, a huge house with a > 1500 > square foot shop under it, and all the specialized equipment I bought over > the > years to play with this stuff. I think my Miller Synchrowave Welder would > pay > for a good part of a year with Horizon racing. Of course if I didn't have > it > how would I melt, distort and otherwise screw up all those pieces of > aluminum > and stainless. > > Very civilized. And Annie cooks lunch and dinner. > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ablake2 at austin.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 02:42:25 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 01:42:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Absolutely Jason. More power to you. I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's more fun to do it yourself. I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I understand. My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of anything that does more for less. All the best, Bill On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > Bill, > Going out on a limb here. > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. > ... > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 06:22:44 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:22:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4CBE73B7-5C86-4550-B1C0-8F6FA7C01170@comcast.net> no worries, Bill. You did give me pause for a moment there - I've been contemplating a new heavy duty tow vehicle, and certainly it would cost enough to pay for several years of track-side service . . . but I'm still at a stage where I enjoy the wrenching and the problem solving as much as the driving. Besides, my wife jokes she's having an affair with the UPS guy, he comes by so often with parts and tools! When you're ready to auction off all those excess shop tools you no longer need, I'm sure the FOT gang will show up and clean you out! On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:42 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: Absolutely Jason. More power to you. I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's more fun to do it yourself. I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I understand. My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of anything that does more for less. All the best, Bill On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > Bill, > Going out on a limb here. > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get > the car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more fun. > ... > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > Jason Ostrowski > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 07:01:45 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:01:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> Message-ID: <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> FOT....PLEASE ACCEPT MY SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI ac at camoletti Alexandre is preparing what is likely to be the most unique TR3 in the world. Meticulous in the research and application of original Triumph parts and components Competition Preparation substantially following the 'teachings' of Kas Kastner. Concours and Museum quality work through out.... Please welcome ALEXANDRE.....he will doubtless provide a great amount of value added content to the FOT. Kas and I have been contact with Alexandre for some time now. Kas regrets that he did not discover Alexandre and his TR3 in time for inclusion in his new book. WELCOME ABOARD, ALEXANDRE! JOE A. -----Original Message----- From: Alexandre Camoletti To: n197tr4 at cs.com Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 6:48 am Subject: FOT YES! Of course ! With great pleasure and honour! , thank you so much Joe to invite me to your private racing enthusiasts group! How do we proceed to my benrolLmentb ? Just read the old article on Kasb website bYa pays yer moneyb&b, what a fantastic piece of realing! With best regards Alexandre PS: I am also rebuilding a Lotus turbo esprit , an early one (1982) with the very rare (and excellent) dry sump engine. Car will be used for track and long distance fast travelling. opportunity some time to travel to Europe, I will be glad to invite you for a lunch or dinner at my place in Geneva (Switzerland), it would be a great honour to meet you in person. Thank you very much Mr Kastner! With my best regards Alexandre Camoletti From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 07:42:44 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:42:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT NOMINATIONS VS SPONSORSHIPS Message-ID: <8CD23BC2CC9E9F7-A1C-12B49@Webmail-m106.sysops.aol.com> FOT Some of you have noticed.......a change in my approach to FOT list membership. "SPONSORSHIP" I have been giving this some thought. The "NOMINATION" procedure worked at the begining when there was so few of us. I dont think it works very well anymore. As I see it..... A "SPONSOR" is responsible for the person he offers to the list. The candidate should be someone who is in a postion to ADD VALUE to the list and it's postings. The FOT is not open to everyone, and should not be. Not all of our folks are engaged in a direct form of TRIUMPH competition, but they are in a postion to add value to the list. It is up to the SPONSOR to qualify the candidate...the responsibility is yours. "No rules, no dues, no board of directors" has prevailed over about 13 years....some said it couldnt be done. But I would like to add some substance to the process of including new members....without being elitist. Please give it a try....thanks! Joe A From klynch_6 at msn.com Thu Sep 16 08:13:57 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:13:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity Message-ID: What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? thanks! Kevin From jason at multivintage.com Thu Sep 16 08:51:46 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:51:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump/ now toasted starter In-Reply-To: References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> <8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com> <8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com> <8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com> <213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> <78980955-0C9E-4BEF-B2A8-FD53E664CC27@bnj.com> <090d01cb54af$06584810$0301a8c0@randall> <001501cb54e9$1f758620$5e609260$@com> <3CE44877-562E-42DB-9036-E8843B971FE1@bnj.com> <002501cb54f5$198a5d10$4c9f1730$@com> <57A56DFD-222F-463C-B920-93012392F50E@bnj.com> <002e01cb5535$3d5724e0$b8056ea0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Great, I just don't want you to get too rusty as I will have many, many questions for you when my dad and I start putting together our AMBRO. In Speed and Triumph Unity, Jason FGR On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 3:42 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Absolutely Jason. More power to you. > > I've been racing one thing or another since I was fifteen years old. I've > done it the hard way, with less than no bucks. It's just as fun. I'm not a > silver spooner, I started with absolutely nothing and earned every nickel I > have. I've been a lot poorer than you probably are. I don't have any problem > remembering when I showed up in Santa Clara, CA to take a new job at a > motorcycle shop with $39 to my name and a bunch of tools in a uhaul. Slept > in my car until the first payday when I could rent an apartment. Other times > I lived in my crappy van (paid $150 bucks for it) for more than a year, > pressed my pants by sticking them under a mattress. Drove crap cars, built > my own motorcycles and made do. Never missed a child support payment. Worked > 14 hour days for years to build a business. Still raced. > > Right now my knuckles are skinned and my hands are filthy from rebuilding > calipers and a grungy TR4 steering rack for a TR3 street car I'm building in > a one and a half car garage. Trying to do it with a minimum of new parts. > Because I can. I don't waste money just because I have it. Besides, it's > more fun to do it yourself. > > I chose to have Horizon Racing maintain Peyote because I'm simplifying my > life a bit. Moving from a big house and shop to a much smaller one. I don't > have room to maintain a race car and do all the projects I have. In the > process I discovered how nice it is to have pros take care of your car--the > economics even work out in my case, but I did pretty much everything on my > race cars and motorcycles for years and years. Mostly just me, and mostly > working alone. So yeah, I've got more money now, but believe me, I > understand. > > My points about accusumps are that they save you money. 70 bucks for a > barebones accusump and twelve bucks for a valve can save you crank wear, > bearings, cams, and catastrophic engine damage. I really can't think of > anything that does more for less. > > All the best, > Bill > > On Sep 16, 2010, at 12:20 AM, Jason Ostrowski wrote: > > > Bill, > > Going out on a limb here. > > All you actually need to race is a well prepped car, some way to get the > car to the track, a cooler, some stuff to put in the cooler to eat and > drink. Some money for an entry fee and race fuel. AND BEER. All the other > stuff... luxuries that don't necessarily make you go any faster or have more > fun. > > ... > > Wish me luck at Blachawk Farms. > > Jason Ostrowski > > Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 From fasttrs at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 09:01:05 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:01:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race engines. Mike #28 EP TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:13 AM, "KEVIN LYNCH" wrote: > What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? > > thanks! > > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From klynch_6 at msn.com Thu Sep 16 09:41:46 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:41:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander Message-ID: I'd be remiss if I didn't wish Joe a Happy Birthday..! Kevin From fubog1 at aol.com Thu Sep 16 09:41:17 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (Fubog1) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:41:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CD23CCBCE1F03F-1E40-144B1@webmail-m096.sysops.aol.com> 3 HTH Glen (note this is just my personal opinion and falls under the category "something I read on the internet") -----Original Message----- From: Mike Munson To: KEVIN LYNCH Cc: FOT Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 11:01 am Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race engines. Mike #28 EP TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:13 AM, "KEVIN LYNCH" wrote: > What's the minimum accumulator cap. for a 6 cyl.? > > thanks! > > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From RustyTR4 at aol.com Thu Sep 16 09:46:27 2010 From: RustyTR4 at aol.com (RustyTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:46:27 EDT Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander Message-ID: <1b6511.735e1ddd.39c395d3@aol.com> Ditto from all of us here......... Triumph Rescue 617 Walnut St. Bally, Pa. 19503 610-845-8217 _www.triumphrescue.com_ (http://www.triumphrescue.com/) British Wiring 617 Walnut St. P.O. Box 185 Bally, Pa. 19503 _www.BritishWiring.com_ (http://www.britishwiring.com/) From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 09:50:14 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:50:14 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> Sounds like a great addition. On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 09:55:49 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 08:55:49 -0700 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Mike Munson wrote: > I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be > more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race > engines. > > Mike > #28 EP TR6 From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 10:03:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:03:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> Message-ID: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 that really sucks ;^p On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:50 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Sounds like a great addition. > On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 10:09:17 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:09:17 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch><8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com><6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD23D0A5F45DDE-1378-1972@webmail-d052.sysops.aol.com> but 70 gets you free lift tickets in Colorado....in March from a business standpoint they dont lose much revenue, do they? -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Bill Babcock Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net; ac at camoletti.ch Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 11:03 am Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 hat really sucks ;^p On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:50 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Sounds like a great addition. On Sep 16, 2010, at 6:01 AM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From donmarshall at nefcom.net Thu Sep 16 10:24:02 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:24:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something that can normally be done here at home? -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM To: Mike Munson Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. From ikorey at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 10:29:21 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:29:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning > 60 > that really sucks ;^p > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 10:41:20 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 09:41:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Irv: It is impossible for Joe to be over 60 as he would have to take retirement and it doesn't appear he is about to do that. Happy Birthday Joe!!! --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Irv Korey wrote: You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From brad.kahler at 141.com Thu Sep 16 10:55:59 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:55:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> References: <242279.43057.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: But Joe IS retired....:) On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 12:41 PM, Ernest Husmann wrote: > Irv: > > It is impossible for Joe to be over 60 as he would have to take retirement and > it doesn't appear he is about to do that. > > Happy Birthday Joe!!! > > --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Irv Korey wrote: > > > > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than > aware that turning 60 "really sucks". > > ;-) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bkahler1 at gmail.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 11:06:25 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:06:25 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? Message-ID: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> Where can I get a radiator cap for my TR3? It sticks down deep about 1" into the neck. I see moss carries a 7lb cap but I need more like 10-15lb for racing. Any sources? ~Steve From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:18:00 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:18:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, but be careful doing it. I've had mine apart. There's a hard coating on the inside that you really don't want to scratch. It's basically just a tube with a piston that separates air from the oil. I thought mine might be sticking because I clamped it in the wrong place. It wasn't. Cleaned it all up with some fresh diesel and stuck it back together. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:24 AM, Don Marshall wrote: > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:20:59 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:20:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: <6ED3C15D-0662-4198-8058-454FA9C799B5@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8F0A4733-6272-44C3-9699-ECF13AF87EA1@bnj.com> If you are using a manual valve you need to get to it when starting the car. If you want it out of the cockpit you can either use a cable remote or electric valve. Fifty bucks is great, especially since it probably has a valve and a little plumbing. Those Porsche guys are handy to know. BMW drivers tend to sell nice stuff cheap too. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:15 AM, KEVIN LYNCH wrote: > Thanks Bill, as it turns out a Porsche friend has a Moroso 2-2.5 qt.? unit for $50. > I've always seen them mounted in cockpit, as I get into this I'm now hearing of engine compartment placement. > All new to me... thanks again~ Kev > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bill Babcock > To: Mike Munson > Cc: KEVIN LYNCH ; FOT > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:55 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity > > I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. > > On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Mike Munson wrote: > > > I don't know but I have always used 3 quart accusumps on mine. They may be > > more expensive and overkill but it is still cheaper than replacing race > > engines. > > > > Mike > > #28 EP TR6 From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 11:21:43 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:21:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: Surely you jest, he's a mere child. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 > that really sucks ;^p > > > You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". > > ;-) From tstrange at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 16 11:34:29 2010 From: tstrange at sbcglobal.net (tom strange) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:34:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <616769.61387.qm@web81107.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for reminding us Kevin, .... Happy Birthday Joe .... and many more (someone has to keep this group on the straight & narrow ;>))))) Tom http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm #4 white spitfire --- On Thu, 9/16/10, KEVIN LYNCH wrote: From: KEVIN LYNCH Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander To: "FOT" Date: Thursday, September 16, 2010, 10:41 AM I'd be remiss if I didn't wish Joe a Happy Birthday..! Kevin _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 16 11:39:48 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:39:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? Be sure to release the precharge before disassembly. If you don't, the piston will fly across the shop. Some of my students experimented with this... John H. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 11:40:27 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 13:40:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <000601cb5595$142cf5d0$3c86e170$@camoletti.ch> <8CD23B673068650-1B84-E366@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> <6DDB788D-0192-4B9A-8E1E-B82259B18966@bnj.com> <78CFE455-39FF-41C5-803A-5AF7FCA2DDBF@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD23DD6283C2CF-A54-6C18@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com> as bill dentinger says...."it's never too late to have a happy childhood". -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Irv Korey Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net; ac at camoletti.ch Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 12:21 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] FOT SPONSORSHIP ALEXANDRE CAMOLETTI of GENEVA, SWITZERLAND TR3 Surely you jest, he's a mere child. On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:29 AM, Irv Korey wrote: On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: Oh, and Happy Birthday Joe. Don't feel bad about turning 59. It's turning 60 that really sucks ;^p You might want to recalculate that age Mr. B. I believe Joe is more than aware that turning 60 "really sucks". ;-) From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 12:08:28 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:08:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: <15642.75418.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <15642.75418.qm@web81103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes. I held it in the mount and used a hose clamp on top of a strap wrench. I saw a special tool someone had made to do the same thing at Sears Point last year. If I were going to do it again I'd make one. Just a hole turned inside a plate of aluminum with a slot milled through one side, and clamping tabs milled on both sides of the slot and a handle welded on. The same guy made his mounts in a similar fashion. Very sano. On Sep 16, 2010, at 10:41 AM, tom strange wrote: > Bill, > Do the ends just screw off??? & what did you use to accomplish that? how did you hold it etc??? > > Tom > > http://www.fot-racing.com/spit/caption/tom_strange.htm > > > #4 white spitfire > > > --- On Thu, 9/16/10, Bill Babcock wrote: > > From: Bill Babcock > Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity > To: "Don Marshall" > Cc: "'FOT'" > Date: Thursday, September 16, 2010, 12:18 PM > > Yes, but be careful doing it. I've had mine apart. There's a hard coating on > the inside that you really don't want to scratch. It's basically just a tube > with a piston that separates air from the oil. I thought mine might be > sticking because I clamped it in the wrong place. It wasn't. Cleaned it all up > with some fresh diesel and stuck it back together. > On Sep 16, 2010, at 9:24 AM, Don Marshall wrote: > > > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with > bits > > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > > that can normally be done here at home? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tstrange at sbcglobal.net From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 15:20:05 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:20:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Message-ID: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? Jim G From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 16 15:40:54 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:40:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8033C@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> It appears APT is now selling nitrided lifters, at $10.48 each. Scott B. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 4:20 PM To: fot Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? Jim G _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/scott.barr at mccarty-law.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 16:37:40 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:37:40 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Message-ID: Subject says it all. You be the judge. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 16:50:43 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:50:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > Subject says it all. You be the judge. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- > collection-100-cars-/160481458567? > pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From billb at bnj.com Thu Sep 16 17:03:03 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:03:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> Works fine if you glue the URL together. My answer would be: No Thanks. On Sep 16, 2010, at 3:50 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: > That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >> Subject says it all. You be the judge. >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >> collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 16 17:09:46 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 16:09:46 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> That appears to be the business, "Triumph's Only." Looks like they are unloading everything. The bottom of the ad listed 595K for the lot. Yikes! Maybe they have a radiator cap for me : ) ~Steve From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 16 17:13:15 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 19:13:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <325C9811-0EFF-40CB-917F-5CBC57C9C96B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CD240BE07921B2-AF4-109F5@webmail-m006.sysops.aol.com> i met this guy at a BMTA Conference two years ago. he said he was thinking about getting out of the business. $595,000 is the asking price.....no thanks -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Greg Lunker Hilyer Cc: fot Triumph Sent: Thu, Sep 16, 2010 6:03 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Works fine if you glue the URL together. My answer would be: No Thanks. On Sep 16, 2010, at 3:50 PM, Greg Lunker Hilyer wrote: > That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >> Subject says it all. You be the judge. >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >> collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >> Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >> TR4 #314 >> Albuquerque NM >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Thu Sep 16 19:06:16 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 21:06:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] 9 to10pm eastern on CNBC tonight Message-ID: BIO. on Enzo Ferrari Enjoy rob From stlnyc at msn.com Thu Sep 16 20:06:19 2010 From: stlnyc at msn.com (Fred & Mary Hodgson) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:06:19 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? In-Reply-To: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> References: <5308F866-617D-4B1D-B6F6-DA6B25132D56@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Steve- Stant made a spacer for their radiator pressure testers to use with 1" deep radiator necks. Get with a Stant supplier & have them get you a couple. Drop it in the neck & upgrade to whatever pressure cap you want. Fred Hodgson > From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net > To: fot at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 10:06:25 -0700 > Subject: [Fot] TR3 Radiator cap? > > Where can I get a radiator cap for my TR3? It sticks down deep about > 1" into the neck. I see moss carries a 7lb cap but I need more like > 10-15lb for racing. > > Any sources? > > ~Steve > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stlnyc at msn.com From triosan at gmail.com Wed Sep 15 01:09:23 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 08:09:23 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival Message-ID: Have been in England for 3 months, heads down on a project. Getting out for the first time next wekend to take in the Sunday of Goodwood Revival. Report to follow! Chuck ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Goodwood Revival Date: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 6:50 PM Subject: It's time for Revival To: "triosan at gmail.com" View the web version of this email [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: This Issue] [image: Goodwood Revival] A THIRST FOR FIRSTS [image: Goodwood Revival] LISTEN LIVE ON GOODWOOD.COM [image: Goodwood Revival] MUSIC AND DANCING ON RICHMOND LAWN [image: Goodwood Revival] DOWNLOAD THE REVIVAL APP [image: Goodwood Revival] WHAT'S IN STORE [image: Goodwood Revival] CHOSEN CHARITY [image: Goodwood Revival] BOOK SIGNING [image: Goodwood Revival] JOIN US ON TWITTER AND FACEBOOK [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Forward to a Friend]  Forward to a friend [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: My Goodwood] [image: Goodwood Revival]  Update your profile [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Keep in Touch] [image: Goodwood Revival on Facebook] [image: Goodwood Revival on Twitter] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: Just 1 Week to Go] There's only another couple of days to wait until the 2010 *Goodwood Revival*. [image: Goodwood Revival] We're just making the final adjustments and finishing touches now, before we open the gates at 07.30am on Friday morning. [image: Goodwood Revival] Tickets are almost sold out now, with just 250 left for Saturday and only 750 tickets remaining for Sunday. So if you haven't already got your Revival tickets call the ticket hotline on 01243 755055 or *book online*NOW! The ticket office will be staying open until 9.00pm this evening, 14th September, to deal with your call, as we expect these last remaining tickets to sell out quickly. [image: Goodwood Revival] We're really excited about the forthcoming weekend, and can't wait to welcome you to the 2010 Revival, which is forecast to be fine with some September sunshine. The Revival promises a weekend of dramatic racing and entertainment that you won't forget in a hurry. [image: Goodwood Revival] See you there... [image: Just 1 Week to Go] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] A THIRST FOR FIRSTS[image: Goodwood Revival] We have a number of significant 'firsts' in store for you this weekend, including a current Renault Formula One driver, Vitaly Petrov, who will be racing at the Goodwood Motor Circuit for the very first time; appropriately in a Russian-built GAZ Volga M21 from 1958. He will compete against a number of ex-F1 stars battling hard in a variety of 1950 saloon cars in the St Mary's Trophy race, including Martin Brundle, Jackie Oliver and Desiri Wilson - the first and only woman to win a Formula One race. Near the busy Revival Market is a purpose-built early 1960s-inspired Tesco supermarket, displaying and selling a wide range of groceries from the era, including specially packaged jars of Marmite, as well as period-packaged cans of Barrs Cream Soda and Raspberry, tins of Tate and Lyle Golden Syrup and Fab ice cream lollies. An important evolution in Jaguar's successful motor racing history will compete for the very first time in the UK at Goodwood this weekend. The Jaguar E2A spanned the conquering D-Type of the 1950s and the iconic E-Type of the 1960s. It will race in the Sussex Trophy. A remarkable Sikorsky S-38 aircraft can be seen for the very first time too in mainland Britain, as part of Goodwood's Freddie March Spirit of Aviation concours d'elegance for pre-1966 aircraft. The S-38 is a huge American twin-engined eight-seat amphibious aircraft, sometimes called 'The Explorer's Air Yacht'. It was Sikorsky's first widely produced amphibious flying boat used successfully by Pan American Airways and the U.S Army. The Sikorsky at Goodwood is painted to represent the famous film makers Martin and Osa Johnson's S-38 'Osa's Ark' in which the husband and wife team explored Africa extensively between the wars, making safari movies and writing books. This aircraft has also been seen in the well known Howard Hughes film, 'The Aviator'. Finally, nine ex-RAF World War 2 pilots will return to their Goodwood base (then known as the Battle of Britain base RAF Westhampnett), many for the first time in 70 years as part of a tribute on Revival Sunday to all ex-airmen. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] LISTEN LIVE ON GOODWOOD.COM [image: Goodwood Revival] For all the latest Revival news during the weekend, keep your eye on the Revival website, where we will be posting live updates of all the action on and off the track. You can also tune in to Goodwood Radio on 87.7 FM from 7.00 am until 7.00 pm each day of the event. *Live Radio Stream* We will also be broadcasting a live radio stream online which will be accessible via the *Revival website.*This will be live from 9.00am on Friday 17 September until the close of the 2010 Revival on Sunday evening. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] MUSIC & DANCING ON RICHMOND LAWN [image: Goodwood Revival] Every day during the Revival you can enjoy live music on the Richmond Lawn, with sets from The Goodwood Big Band, Jazz Cafi and Oh-Bop Sh'Bam. Strut your stuff and show off your moves, or if you don't know how you can join in the Dance Workshops, where rosettes will be awarded for different categories including the Oldest Swinger in Town, Divine Duo for the best couple, and Goodwood's Grooviest for the most improved dancer during each workshop. Go on, put on your dancing shoes and show us your finest moves! *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] DOWNLOAD THE REVIVAL APP[image: Goodwood Revival] New for 2010 we have developed an app for your iphone, which will help you find your way around all the wonderful attractions that take place during Revival. It will also include a timetable* of the races and other main events taking place over the weekend, so you can plan your visit. To download the Revival App *click here.* * The race content and timings are subject to change. You can purchase the full Revival Programme on the day or pre-order your copy *online now.* *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] WHAT'S IN STORE [image: Goodwood Revival] Don't forget to take home a little piece of Revival as a souvenir of your visit - choose from our range of specially developed merchandise, that includes overalls, t-shirts, books, DVDs, silk scarves, leather gloves and a whole lot more. *Buy online*or in the Goodwood shops located near Gate 1 and on the Richmond Lawn. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] CHOSEN CHARITY [image: Goodwood Revival] Each year Goodwood works with a team of enthusiastic volunteers to raise money for an appropriate charity or beneficiary. The nominated charity for this week's Revival, is a beautiful and historic local church on the edge of Goodwood Estate - the Boxgrove Priory. The Boxgrove Priory has very strong connections to Goodwood stretching back over 300 years. The Priory has enjoyed the support throughout history of all 10 Dukes of Richmond. Boxgrove Priory is the resting place of Billy Fiske III, the gifted and dashing young American pilot who flew from Goodwood/RAF Westhampnett and nearby Tangmere during World War II. Fiske was a famed member of the USA Bobsledding team and twice won gold at the 1928 and 1932 Olympics. To read more about this wartime hero and Goodwood's tribute to him on Sunday, which includes a salute by The Royal Horse Artillery, please *click here* . *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival] BOOK SIGNING [image: Goodwood Revival] We are pleased to welcome back Nick Mason of Pink Floyd fame, who will once again be joining us at the Revival. During the weekend he will also be available to sign copies of his new book, Passion for Speed. Nick's book will be available to purchase in the Goodwood Shops, located beside the main gate and on the Richmond Lawn. The book signings will take place in the shop on the Richmond Lawn at the following times: Friday & Saturday: 11.00am - 12noon Sunday: 10.30am - 11.30am. Nick's book puts you behind the wheel of the greatest ever sports and racing cars. Nick Mason of Pink Floyd has been acquiring and racing cars for nearly 40 years. With test driver Mark Hales, he has given the pick of his cars a no-holds-barred workout at Silverstone, Donington and Anglesey to find out how they compare under pressure. Feel the force of a Le Mans Porsche. Relish the challenge of a 1920s Bugatti. Savour the elegant performance of the Ferrari 250 GTO. With specially commissioned photographs of every car, and even a CD unleashing the power and glory of their engine sounds, "Passion For Speed" is the next best thing to being in the driving seat. RRP: #25.00 *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] [image: Goodwood Revival on Twitter] [image: Goodwood Revival on Facebook] JOIN US ON TWITTER AND FACEBOOK [image: Goodwood Revival] We have recently launched our Facebook and Twitter pages. Sign up now for lots of exciting news and views about this year's Revival, and for your chance to win some fantastic prizes over the next few weeks. *Follow us on Twitter*. *Follow us on Facebook*. *Back to top* [image: Goodwood Revival] Goodwood Revival Goodwood Road Racing Company, Goodwood Motor Circuit, Goodwood, Chichester, West Sussex PO18 0PH T: +44 (0)1243 755055  F: +44 (0)1243 755058 Visit the Goodwood website This email was sent to triosan at gmail.com You can instantly unsubscribe from these emails by clicking here. [image: Vintage at Goodwood] -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From rjl at gt-classics.com Thu Sep 16 20:46:14 2010 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (R. John Lye) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:46:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> Wow, "Triumphs Only" - that name brings back some memories. I had no idea that he was still around. John At 06:37 PM 9/16/2010, you wrote: >Subject says it all. You be the judge. >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com Thanks, R. John Lye rjl6n at cstone.net From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 21:25:36 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 03:25:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> References: <50.96.07323.876D29C4@smtp04.embarq.synacor.com> Message-ID: I only have $400K sittin' around. Dang! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "R. John Lye" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 22:46:14 To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; Subject: Re: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? Wow, "Triumphs Only" - that name brings back some memories. I had no idea that he was still around. John At 06:37 PM 9/16/2010, you wrote: >Subject says it all. You be the judge. >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >collection-100-cars-/160481458567?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com Thanks, R. John Lye rjl6n at cstone.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com From mike.mehl at yahoo.com Thu Sep 16 21:42:39 2010 From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl) Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 20:42:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <584721.89351.qm@web46113.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have cleaned mine out (three weeks ago) and unfortunatly have to do it again. easy to do. Contact me off line for the details. Mike Mehl -62 TR4 ________________________________ From: Don Marshall To: FOT Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 9:24:02 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with bits of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something that can normally be done here at home? -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM To: Mike Munson Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more than enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in the TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote gauge anyway. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mike.mehl at yahoo.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 23:26:40 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 00:26:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryv ille.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20100917052602.0C9F218764F@autox.team.net> Jack did that (cam anyway), although I've not done that on the Larry cam I'm running. Certainly didn't seem to hurt anything. - Tony D At 04:20 PM 9/16/2010, toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > >Jim G >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 16 23:30:54 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 00:30:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> Well, that's slightly less than $6000 per hulk - what a steal... Hah. - Tony At 05:50 PM 9/16/2010, Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer wrote: >That didn't work so well. Either cut and paste the entire address or >search E-Bay item # 160481458567 > >Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >TR4 #314 >Albuquerque NM >On Sep 16, 2010, at 4:37 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > >>Subject says it all. You be the judge. >>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-30-year-car-and-parts- >>collection-100-cars-/160481458567? pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item255d70b987 >> >>Greg "Lunker" Hilyer >>TR4 #314 >>Albuquerque NM From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Sep 17 08:16:48 2010 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 07:16:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival References: Message-ID: Chuck, don't forget the ' period correct clothing'. Have fun! Charly Mitchel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" To: "Friends" Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:09 AM Subject: [Fot] Fwd: It's time for (Goodwood) Revival > Have been in England for 3 months, heads down on a project. Getting out > for > the first time next wekend to take in the Sunday of Goodwood Revival. > Report to follow! > Chuck > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Goodwood Revival > Date: Tue, Sep 14, 2010 at 6:50 PM > Subject: It's time for Revival > To: "triosan at gmail.com" From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 17 08:19:43 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 10:19:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Life sentence or opportunity of a lifetime? In-Reply-To: <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <20100917053010.9500118764F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: On Fri, 17 Sep 2010, Tony Drews wrote: > Well, that's slightly less than $6000 per hulk - what a steal... Hah. You aslo get the "brand", of course. What's that worth. Oh, nevermind. :-) > - Tony rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tpettenati at yahoo.com Fri Sep 17 10:02:36 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 09:02:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Report - SCCA Vintage Thuderhill Sept. 11 & 12 Message-ID: <846490.24433.qm@web180305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> This was our first real race weekend since buying the car back in Feb. I'd done an auto-X and my wife ran a CSRG test day, but we were now ready to take it up a notch. We were a bit hesitant at first since SCCA vintage has a bit of a crash & bash reputation compared to the other vintage groups in our area. We spoke with the Vintage Chief who assured us the small bore group were a clean and safe bunch to run with. My wife realized she needed one more SCCA event to complete her comp license requirements, so it was now or never. B Weather was great all weekend and the car ran without issue. Small bore was suppose to be 18 cars, but due to the lack of entries they combined the 2.5L TA group in with group 1. So it would be 25 cars at most. Due to a bit more group shuffling we ended up with three run groups instead of 5. Maybe not so good for SCCA but great for us - lots of track time and a very relaxed schedule with a practice, qualify and race each day. Results were 14th out of 20 on Saturday and 15th of 16 on Sunday. Her lap times kept getting better as she gained confidence and familiarity with the car, and by the end of the weekend was faster than she had ever been in a Spec Miata. B Photos can be found at http://cwk-photo.appspot.com/start#SFR-20100912 B There were two other Triumphs in our group. The finely prepped Spitfire #43 of Tom Turner's - last spotted at the Monterey Reunion, and Scott A'Dair's very nice TR-250 #55. B Next event - CSRG Season Finale, Oct. 29 - 31. B Cheers, Tim Pettenati Spitfire #44 c From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Sep 17 13:43:16 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:43:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity References: Message-ID: <1328930F63034AF78EB48BB5B08AB736@rocky> Yep. Pretty easy, actually (Hey, if *I* -- with my mechanical ineptitude -- can do it....) Remove from car. release air pressure from back. Open valve, pour out oil Unscrew the front end (the oil end) Clean it out. Push the piston to the back, reassemble. Refill with fresh oil, close valve. Repressurize the back (air) end. Reinstall in car. --Rocky ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Marshall" To: "'FOT'" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:24 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump cleaning, was sump capacity > My understanding is that every time we have a major internal event with > bits > of metal getting loose in the engine we need to not only replace the oil > cooler but we need to clean out the accusump as well. I've sent mine back > to the factory for cleaning and rebuild (about $50), but is that something > that can normally be done here at home? > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bill Babcock > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:56 AM > To: Mike Munson > Cc: KEVIN LYNCH; FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] sump capacity > > I like how the smaller ones fit. I usually use two quart, and it's more > than > enough. I may have to try the 1 1/2 quart barebones seventy buck moroso in > the > TR3 I'm building. Looks nice and compact, and I'd like to fit a remote > gauge > anyway. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Sep 17 13:53:49 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:53:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Accusump References: <022c01cb4c7c$0caf93c0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae><8CD1C348B0A2BD8-121C-28B64@webmail-d076.sysops.aol.com><8CD1CC0FDA72B98-830-4FC1@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com><1e9401cb4eb7$9c7d2520$d5776f60$@rr.com><8CD1D92F44C73A4-1B94-1429@webmail-d028.sysops.aol.com><213501cb4f9b$dabb8a40$90329ec0$@rr.com> <08ae01cb5497$1e001d70$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: No, it was full-tilt-boogie on the track each time. But back then the bearings were usually "done" even on the good cylinders. The wear was obvious (although each blown engine was a con-rod bolt failure) Today they come out looking like near-new. Some have said that there should be enough oil on startup that it's okay. Maybe on startup for the afternoon after you've run in practice that morning, but how about the startup after it's been sitting silent in your garage for five weeks? Try this: pour oil on something and then let it sit for five weeks and see how much is left. Yeah, I thought so. Look at it this way: An Accusump really doesn't cost that much, and with reasonable care it'll last forever (Mine's 30 years old now). And you cannot argue that having oil pressure before startup isn't a good thing. How much difference it makes, that you might argue -- but it doesn't hurt anything and it could help. I've never regretted it. --Rocky ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 12:30 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Accusump >> That was, oh, about 1980. I blew an engine in 1977 and >> another in 1980. > > At startup? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Fri Sep 17 15:59:33 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:59:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 From seacubeco at aol.com Fri Sep 17 17:16:06 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 19:16:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 References: <3F928365-B399-4FEF-81B6-D6AFFB6EA8BA@comcast.net> Message-ID: Amici Facebook Badge Photo Above is the link to the Facebook image of the artwork proof that will become the BADGE! If you can't get the link to work please email me and I will send you the picture. Price is still only $30 which includes EVERYTHING. Deadline is November 1st. Still plenty of time to order. There are 46 Badges sold. That means that theses badges will be made and delivered. Payment is either PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361). Chris From dave at microworks.net Fri Sep 17 17:30:43 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 16:30:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 In-Reply-To: <2E2B7825410D4144A598429BC40F192B@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <3F928365-B399-4FEF-81B6-D6AFFB6EA8BA@comcast.net> <2E2B7825410D4144A598429BC40F192B@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF0351DE@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Just looked at the image over on FB. It looks awesome. I'll be ordering one for sure! -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of christopher bock Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:21 PM To: FoTTriumph Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge update 9-17-10 Amici Facebook Badge Photo Above is the link to the Facebook image of the artwork proof that will become the BADGE! If you can't get the link to work please email me and I will send you the picture. Price is still only $30 which includes EVERYTHING. Deadline is November 1st. Still plenty of time to order. There are 46 Badges sold. That means that theses badges will be made and delivered. Payment is either PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361). From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Sep 17 17:42:48 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 17:42:48 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Message-ID: <39D774F7-A0D5-4237-9CC2-C8608F16EB0D@comcast.net> So then is the stock crank of the same material? Jim g Sent from my iPhone On Sep 17, 2010, at 3:59 PM, "Greg Solow" wrote: > Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding > will not give any benificial results. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Greg Solow > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: "fot" > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM > Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > > >> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? >> >> >> >> Jim G >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com >> >> > > > --- > --- > --- > --- > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: > 09/16/10 06:34:00 From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 17 20:28:54 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:28:54 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? = From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 17 20:42:59 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 22:42:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER Message-ID: <8CD24F25756472C-1994-6B89@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> Looking for an ACCUSUMP Looking for good HEADER Thanks! From seacubeco at aol.com Fri Sep 17 21:04:20 2010 From: seacubeco at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 23:04:20 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge link Message-ID: FOT BADGE I hope this works... Pics will be sent to those who wanted them Sorry Chris From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 17 21:09:19 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 23:09:19 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge link In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php? pid=31602818&o=all&op=1&view=all&subj=124727640888719&id=1398092718 cut and paste if yo can...... I am getting fed up with this...... chris On Sep 17, 2010, at 11:04 PM, christopher bock wrote: > FOT BADGE From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 17 21:38:21 2010 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 20:38:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <305091.48839.qm@web81707.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I need a TR4A frame moved from Texas to the Midwest. Dennis I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? = _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/yellow-green at sbcglobal.net From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 02:39:32 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:39:32 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> Message-ID: <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> I not agree with that. Steel get its strength from carbon build into the iron structure and these carbon atoms do make the standard steel harder, especially if the steel is heat treated. Cast iron has most of the carbon between the iron grains, so the strength is not high. To enforce more surface strength the nitride atoms enter to the iron grains and make them harder like with the steel and so it should be a benefit to the whole cam. The cam I got from Larry is still in the chilled cast condition without nitride treatment, but the lifters are nitrite hardened and they are cast iron too. Seems to work fine. All my other cams were nitride hardened and they lasted too....after I grinded the lifters dead flat. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Solow Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 00:00 An: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From Gt6steve at aol.com Sat Sep 18 08:34:43 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:34:43 EDT Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> There was some talk of moving a GT6 from Las Vegas to St. Louis a while back... From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Sep 18 08:44:29 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:44:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD24F05F7690A7-9CC-101D8@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4C94D04D.5030709@charter.net> I may have a TR6 frame to move from Apache Junction, AZ (north of Phoenix) to the midwest. I need to see if it's still available. Thanks Glenn Franco On 9/17/2010 10:28 PM, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. > > This may be in October....not scheduled yet. > > Anyone need something moved from west to east? > > > > > = > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Sep 18 09:06:15 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 08:06:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] funky oil Message-ID: <10624012A3E34BB3AB39368E2331FF8C@Pendys> Family, the last two times i have had the oil pan off for bearing inspection, the bottom , say 1/2 to 1 pint , of oil seems to be more of a slurry, like syrup instead of oil. The first time i thought the residue was the remnants of the rebuild,ie assembly lube, break-in wear and so on. I have removed all bearing caps both times looking for anything unusual and i am getting good wear patterns. The second removeval did not seem to yield as much slurry as the first time. The engine is very fresh with virtually no hours on it. I have Valvoline VR1 20-50 this time in it with a bottle of comp cams zdddp. Normal or should i start freaking- out. Any input ??.......Thanks in advance......Mark Pendy From BillDentin at aol.com Sat Sep 18 09:07:11 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:07:11 EDT Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST Message-ID: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> In a message dated 09/17/2010 9:30:42 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. > > This may be in October....not scheduled yet. > > Anyone need something moved from west to east? > > Joe... Why don't you hold off. Probably someone from the midwest will be buying the California TRIUMPH stash on ebay, and you'll need to make a bunch of trips to get it all back here. Bill (Damdinger) From REK46 at aol.com Sat Sep 18 09:24:14 2010 From: REK46 at aol.com (REK46 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:24:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] funky oil Message-ID: <15caf7.7d00a49c.39c6339e@aol.com> I think the zddp zinc additive is heavier and wud drop to bottom when not hot and being used..but i'm not an oil chemist In a message dated 9/18/2010 11:06:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mpendy at dishmail.net writes: Family, the last two times i have had the oil pan off for bearing inspection, the bottom , say 1/2 to 1 pint , of oil seems to be more of a slurry, like syrup instead of oil. The first time i thought the residue was the remnants of the rebuild,ie assembly lube, break-in wear and so on. I have removed all bearing caps both times looking for anything unusual and i am getting good wear patterns. The second removeval did not seem to yield as much slurry as the first time. The engine is very fresh with virtually no hours on it. I have Valvoline VR1 20-50 this time in it with a bottle of comp cams zdddp. Normal or should i start freaking- out. Any input ??.......Thanks in advance......Mark Pendy _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 18 10:09:58 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:09:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER References: <8CD24F25756472C-1994-6B89@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <03e901cb574b$f28e0af0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Jeg's has a 3 quart one for sale for about $200, including mounting brackets. And valve and gauge. Made by Moroso. JEGS.com, I think. 800 345-4545. No financial interest. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: [Fot] Looking for serviceable Accusump and TR3/4 HEADER > Looking for an ACCUSUMP > > Looking for good HEADER > > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin3 at verizon.net From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sat Sep 18 10:11:51 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:11:51 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Watkins Glen race report Message-ID: <03f601cb574c$351dd670$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Adams To: william.tobin3 at verizon.net Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 6:46 PM Subject: Watkins Glen race report Bill, I'm not longer on the list, but you can forward this to it if you want. Sorry to hear about your driveline troubles. Dick's TR4 had a good showing. Rain throughout the weekend and a large 52 car field made for tough driving conditions. Saturday afternoon Qualifying race. Started 8th oa and picked up 3 spots right away. A 3.0L Alfa 3000CM started on pole and motored off. 2nd through 7th consisted of Denny Wilson's Super 7 , Vic Skirmants' Porsche 356, Mike Besic's Alfa Duetto, Dick Stockton's Triumph TR4, Bob Leitzinger's Datsun 510, Ceasar Cone's Alfa Duetto, in that order. 2nd through 7th stayed together for the first 4 laps and ran away from the rest of the field. They ran as a group until they hit traffic, and then spread out while they worked through lapped cars. The TR4 and Datsun ran nose to tail, swapping positions while they lapped 19 cars. A lapped car balked the TR4 at the exit of T9 which allowed the 510 to make a run in T10. The checkered came out one turn later. Finished 6th of 52 and turned a 2.21.0. Results here http://www.mylaps.com/results/showrun.jsp?id=1690447 Sunday was rain, and their race was at 5pm. With a 6hour ride home, no one felt like sticking around and most of our competitors packed it up and went home. Bob From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 18 10:14:56 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:14:56 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> References: <229c48.49714fc5.39c62f9f@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2563C51EA8A5-1988-E3EA@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> I already bought that stuff. I am going to move out there and live in one of the TRIUMPHS -----Original Message----- From: BillDentin at aol.com To: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 10:07 am Subject: Re: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In a message dated 09/17/2010 9:30:42 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: I am considering a trip to SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA with enclosed trailer. This may be in October....not scheduled yet. Anyone need something moved from west to east? Joe... Why don't you hold off. Probably someone from the midwest will be buying the California TRIUMPH stash on ebay, and you'll need to make a bunch of trips to get it all back here. Bill (Damdinger) From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 18 10:17:40 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:17:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST In-Reply-To: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> References: <229316.623db7a9.39c62803@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD256426CC9E0E-1988-E45D@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com> That would be close to ideal....anymore info out there. -----Original Message----- From: Gt6steve at aol.com To: n197tr4 at cs.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 9:34 am Subject: Re: [Fot] EMPTY TRAILER - SOCAL TO MIDWEST There was some talk of moving a GT6 from Las Vegas to St. Louis a while back... _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From Gt6steve at aol.com Sat Sep 18 10:33:25 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 12:33:25 EDT Subject: [Fot] Andy Stark Message-ID: <1295.4d746cf0.39c643d5@aol.com> Andy, give me a shout. I've lost all of my contacts in a computer crash....Steve From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 18 11:28:22 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:28:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 crank improving # 2 main Message-ID: <20100918172740.107C718763F@autox.team.net> FoT I have heard the oil passage in the # 2 main journal can be drilled out for better flow and re-shaping the hole to better apply oil to the bearing. I'm preparing a new crank and using Chris's new seal as well as shot peening, cryo treatment and nitriding. I would like to improve oil flow to the center main if possible. Any information about drilling, re-shaping or just outright crank improvement would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Sat Sep 18 12:37:06 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:37:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? Scott From jerrybarr at charter.net Sat Sep 18 12:50:53 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:50:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036D@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <7C6416A6-49D3-4983-8B9F-768421D911A2@charter.net> OMG do not cut that off! That will cause all the horse power to flow back behind the rear seal and run out on the track allowing it to be syphoned up by those pesky Miatas. On Sep 18, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barr, Scott wrote: > There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. > > Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Sat Sep 18 12:53:46 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 13:53:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> We're safe, as our Spitfire produces no horsepower. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Barr To: Barr, Scott Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat Sep 18 13:50:53 2010 Subject: Re: [Fot] Spitfire oil pan tab OMG do not cut that off! That will cause all the horse power to flow back behind the rear seal and run out on the track allowing it to be syphoned up by those pesky Miatas. On Sep 18, 2010, at 1:37 PM, Barr, Scott wrote: > There is a tab that sticks up from the rear of the Spitfire oil pan. It interferes with the girdle and crank scraper I want to use. > > Does anyone think it serves a useful purpose? Can I simply cut it off? > > Scott > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 13:42:39 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:42:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 18 14:19:39 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:19:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> Message-ID: <001501cb576e$d342f1b0$79c8d510$@com> Unfortunately Redline is not sold in Germany. But thanks....the technical description is very similar to the plastilube grease. How often to change bearings? Mine did last several years now. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Barry Munson [mailto:barry at penybryn.ca] Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 22:13 An: 'MadMarx' Betreff: RE: [Fot] Hub grease Chris - Take a look at Redline CV-2 fully synthetic grease. I used this product for the first time this year during the Topeka (Heartland) Kastner Cup event where the ambient temperature was 45C and the track well over 50. Heartland is a 2.5 mile track but is basically an up and down point and squirt track which is very demanding on brakes. This is background to the following assessment of CV-2 - tremendous heat was generated at the front axle which was hard to deal with because of the high ambient temperature and the layout of the track - the grease showed absolutely no degradation when the wheel bearings were checked after the event. Barry. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MadMarx Sent: September-18-10 1:43 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/barry at penybryn.ca From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Sep 19 02:54:03 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:54:03 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8036E@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <001401cb5769$a8658840$f93098c0$@com> <000301cb576d$d5788bd0$8069a370$@ca> Message-ID: <000301cb57d8$37b6cb30$a7246190$@com> Thanks for all the input on grease types. Any suggestions how many grease I should fill into the hub space? Cheers Chris From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sun Sep 19 09:45:39 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:45:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Piloti Shoes Message-ID: FoT, I have a pair of black Piloti driving style shoes (for street use) size 9.5 available if anyone is interested. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 19 12:29:38 2010 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 11:29:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Randy Williams Message-ID: <399746.36629.qm@web81701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Randy - would you contact me off list. Thanks Dennis DeLap From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 19 13:41:04 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:41:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> Message-ID: <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Just FYI, Lunati in MS will Plasma Nitride your cams, cranks and what-not. Just had them do my TR6 crank last week. ________________________________ From: MadMarx To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, September 18, 2010 3:39:32 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams I not agree with that. Steel get its strength from carbon build into the iron structure and these carbon atoms do make the standard steel harder, especially if the steel is heat treated. Cast iron has most of the carbon between the iron grains, so the strength is not high. To enforce more surface strength the nitride atoms enter to the iron grains and make them harder like with the steel and so it should be a benefit to the whole cam. The cam I got from Larry is still in the chilled cast condition without nitride treatment, but the lifters are nitrite hardened and they are cast iron too. Seems to work fine. All my other cams were nitride hardened and they lasted too....after I grinded the lifters dead flat. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Greg Solow Gesendet: Samstag, 18. September 2010 00:00 An: toodamnfunky at comcast.net; fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding will not give any benificial results. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "fot" Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? > > > > Jim G > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: 09/16/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/oldspeed72 at yahoo.com From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Sun Sep 19 13:47:59 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <39D774F7-A0D5-4237-9CC2-C8608F16EB0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <024366B4C001417BA7AA60CB7DC9F9F2@TER2> No, the stock crank is a steel forging. Nitriding the crank properly gives VERY benificial results i9n both wear resistance and resistance to cracking. . Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gray" To: "Greg Solow" Cc: "fot" Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > So then is the stock crank of the same material? > > Jim g > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 17, 2010, at 3:59 PM, "Greg Solow" > wrote: > >> Nitriding work on steel, TR cams are made of cast iron. Nitriding >> will not give any benificial results. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Greg Solow >> ----- Original Message ----- From: >> To: "fot" >> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 2:20 PM >> Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams >> >> >>> Does anybody Nitride thier cam or liftersB ? >>> >>> >>> >>> Jim G >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com >>> >>> >> >> >> --- >> --- >> --- >> --- >> -------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3138 - Release Date: >> 09/16/10 06:34:00 >> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3141 - Release Date: 09/17/10 12:24:00 From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sun Sep 19 14:01:48 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:01:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams In-Reply-To: <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD@TER2> <000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com> <655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C966C2C.5040007@greenheart.com> Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild comes along. What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? --Justin From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Sun Sep 19 14:23:17 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams References: <29709611.578324.1284672005721.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><374DC039B05D4AEC9BD6CC2C86508DBD @TER2><000901cb570d$06bea5a0$143bf0e0$@com><655723.82377.qm@web111013.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4C966C2C.5040007@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <77BBB7E94CEC4D1D8E2189CCC3A2212B@TER2> The hardchrome gives a very hard and durable surface to the crank journals. It does not add any strength or resistance to cracking, as does Nitriding. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop > that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground > undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. > I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank > and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild > comes along. > > What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? > > --Justin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3145 - Release Date: 09/19/10 06:34:00 From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 20 01:37:39 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 00:37:39 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Sovren Fall Finale In-Reply-To: <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> Lightly attended, intermittently rainy, but lots of fun and good weekend for Triumphs. Jeff Quick won one of his races and looked great in all of them, John James nearly earned a second but wound up third, and also performed well all weekend. From billb at bnj.com Mon Sep 20 01:45:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 00:45:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Sovren Fall Finale In-Reply-To: <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> References: <5E64E52E-F693-49CD-B2E5-16FEB65F610D@earthlink.net> <200ABA06-51AC-4E2E-82EC-A2C82E6AC77F@earthlink.net> <8B5F30B4-D35C-420C-B6B5-B6AEB90D7A5F@bnj.com> Message-ID: <9D8019E0-49CD-4F1A-83A6-8C2506F8AEA2@bnj.com> Hmm, the second paragraph got lopped off, that's happened a few times lately. I'll try to reconstruct it: Peyote performed incredibly well all weekend. Broke my personal lap record with a 1:37:something. I consistently feel that my driving is a bit off this year, but the car keeps upping the ante. I may not be remembering correctly, but I think I have broken my lap records at every every track this year. What a great car. At the risk of jinxing things, it's performed almost perfectly, without so much as a hiccup all year. Kudos to Tony Garmey and his crew. On Sep 20, 2010, at 12:37 AM, Bill Babcock wrote: > Lightly attended, intermittently rainy, but lots of fun and good weekend for > Triumphs. Jeff Quick won one of his races and looked great in all of them, > John James nearly earned a second but wound up third, and also performed well > all weekend. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 20 19:48:33 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 01:48:33 GMT Subject: [Fot] Nitriding cams Message-ID: <20100920.214833.28491.1@webmail02.dca.untd.com> About 10 years ago on the false grid at New Hampshire a Volvo P1800 went to start and the engine would not crank - it was seized. Turned out that the chrome had flaked off the crank and jammed up in the bearing journals. No idea where the hard chrome was done, but the car and driver were from eastern PA Joe(B). ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Greg Solow" To: "Justin Wagner" , Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 13:23:17 -0700 The hardchrome gives a very hard and durable surface to the crank journals. It does not add any strength or resistance to cracking, as does Nitriding. Greg Solow ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Nitriding cams > Back in the early 80's, I had a crank worked on through a machine shop > that was working on Formula 1 at the time. They had it ground > undersize, and then chromed oversize and ground to standard. > I ended up never building that motor, but I've been saving that crank > and other components for my current street TR4A, for when a rebuild > comes along. > > What's the thoughts on that process versus nitriding? > > --Justin > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.445 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3145 - Release Date: 09/19/10 06:34:00 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c980f41c0aa4c62aa3st03duc From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 20 20:45:19 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 02:45:19 GMT Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Message-ID: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> I have been using Mobil 1 grease. I have used Redline CV-2 too, but have found the Mobil 1 to work just as well and it is easier to find. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "MadMarx" To: Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:42:39 +0200 Hi, after my left front wheel bearing destructed itself I'm looking for a better grease. At a catalogue I found a stuff that is called Plastilube and should stand 250 degree centigrade and does resist high pressure. Is that a stuff that I can use instead of normal grease? Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.7% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage for $547/mo. FREE. No Obligation. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c981c5f3c9facae15bst01duc From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Tue Sep 21 09:25:45 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow From tedtsimx at bright.net Tue Sep 21 10:08:39 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:08:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] looking for TR3/TR4 con rods Message-ID: <4C98D887.1000709@bright.net> Hello list. We have a customer looking for a set of used after market connecting rods - Pauter, Carillo, etc fora TR3 or TR4. We will magnaflux, straighten, recon, etc but need a set to start with. Anyone who has a set for sale or knowsof a set, please let me know.Thanks,Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From s.janzen at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 10:50:22 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 12:50:22 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> I looked up Red Line vs the Shell Darina EP. Red Line has a much higher dropping point (basically the temp at which the stuff turns to liquid) - 900 degrees F vs 500. The load wear index (measurement of load bearing capacity relative to wear of the bearing surfaces) is 70 (Red Line) vs 50, with a higher number being superior. My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front hubs get from braking. I hope to report back on this, however, as I have temperature indicating paint on the brake and hub pieces for this weekend's race. It may be that both of these are well within operating range. All the specs are on the Shell and Red Line websites. On Sep 21, 2010, at 11:25 AM, Greg Solow wrote: We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Sep 21 11:11:00 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:11:00 GMT Subject: [Fot] Hub grease Message-ID: <20100921.131100.29336.2@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Back in college we asked one of our engineering professors how much grease was needed in wheel bearings. His answer was "just enough to keep the bearings lubricated". That was not the answer we needed. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Greg Solow" To: "Joe Boruch" , Cc: Subject: Re: [Fot] Hub grease Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 08:25:45 -0700 We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. It was developed by shell for lubricating the wheel bearings of the carts that carried molten steel around in the steel foundries. They make it in Grade #1 and 2 ( this refers to the viscosity, we use Grade 2), and in EP (with extreme pressure additives) and non-EP. We use the EP suffix grease. We have used it for years as an all purpose grease in our shop. We buy it in 56 lb. pails. I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size. We do have some empty grease tubes that we could fill if someone wants us to do so. I am sure Shell would be happy to supply spec information on this grease to anyone who is interested. In an old Sunbeam workshop manual that we have, there is an illustration of a "properly packed wheel hub". It shows the cavity between the bearings filled with grease around its' periphery so that the level of the grease is level with the outer races of the bearing. This will prevent grease from migrating from within the bearing rollers to an empty cavity leaving the bearing dry. Greg Solow ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c98e75f11819cc32b5st01duc From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Tue Sep 21 11:51:27 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (Christopher Bock) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 13:51:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT]. Millville race. Report Message-ID: <923FDBCE-AB46-4989-8B1F-0F509E37075C@aol.com> Amici, I know I asked this before but...... Who is going this weekend? I will be there and will try to say hi Chris From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 21 12:10:56 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:10:56 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <35ec01cb59b8$572e2e90$058a8bb0$@rr.com> > We have been using Shell "Darina" grease for years. <> > I do not know what the minimum standard packaging size A quick Google turned up individual 14 oz cartridges for sale (in EP grade 2). http://www.pdblowers.com/pr93-shell-darina-sd-2-grease-tube.php Specs available at http://tinyurl.com/2drxvc9 -- Randall From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 18:34:55 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 00:34:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <271747278.1543671.1285115687814.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello all, Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. I'd appreciate any comments, Dave H. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 21 18:37:41 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 17:37:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> Now is the time to get it straight and true, and beef up the most stressed sections a little bit before popping the frame onto it. ~Steve On Sep 21, 2010, at 5:34 PM, davehogye wrote: Hello all, Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. I'd appreciate any comments, Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From lunkercars at earthlink.net Tue Sep 21 20:03:07 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 20:03:07 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From whitedog72 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 21 20:16:27 2010 From: whitedog72 at hotmail.com (f s) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:16:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time Message-ID: Hi All, How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are newly rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a brand that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or 20W50. Way to heavy for street car. Thanks Andy 72 EP GT6 79 spit etc....... From awashatko at wi.rr.com Tue Sep 21 20:45:36 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:45:36 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Frame Measurements Message-ID: <836C686A-5A0F-4BE4-A8BA-050BAC44C184@wi.rr.com> FoT, Pages 428 and 429 of "The Complete Official Triumph TR6 & TR250 1967-1976" manual published by RB Bentley Publishers will give you all the dimensions you need to verify and true your frame. Take the book to Kinko's and have them enlarge the pages 200% for easy reading. Allen Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Sep 21 20:46:41 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:46:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] ALLOY ENGINE PLATES - new inventory available interested? otherwise delete. Message-ID: <8CD281785192FB7-15D8-6611@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com> We just ran TR6 and GT6 Rear Engine Plates, as well as the front GT6/TR6 Front Engine Plates. We also released to production the later version of the TR6 engine plate. First time and available no where else TR3/TR4 Alloy Engine Plates are plentiful, too. This would be a good time to get a good FOT deal....just ask. Especially with us building a new engine and supporting two race cars. BTW, THANKS TO BOB KRAMER for shipping a proper block to replace the one subjected to a rod violently cast through the walls in three places. From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 21 20:49:56 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 02:49:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <539757137.1549725.1285123681524.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1302528209.1549822.1285123796292.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Greg, I stopped by a friends body shop today and it just so happens that he mentioned the possibility of that "urban myth". He said some cars were set that way from the factory. He also said that modern specification have a 10mm tolerance side to side, front to back and diagonally after straightening is performed. My frame otherwise looks straight. There are no signs of any obvious bends or kinks that might suggest being bent from an impact of some sort. There was, as I said, some badly bent wheels on the car, and the lower front edge of the main frame rails had some pretty good curb rash. It seems to me that, a hard curb impact could bend a rail upward a bit, as well as wheel. The problem with trying to address this issue on a frame machine is that it seems to me as though the spring tower and lower pin would have to be twisted forward and the frame rail pulled down. This does not seem reasonable. I am curious as to what others may have encountered through the years with Triumphs and their frames. Are there any commonalities? The factory manual shows measuring points from all angles but has no info regarding specifications and + or - tolerances. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer" To: "davehogye" Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 7:03:07 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Tue Sep 21 21:27:08 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:27:08 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't believe ZDDP is just for break in, rather the lack of it at break in hastens the damage that occurs to flat tappet cams on engines run without it. I use Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil, the kind they sell at all the major parts stores and it has ZDDP in it. Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of f s Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:16 PM To: triumph friends Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time Hi All, How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are newly rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a brand that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or 20W50. Way to heavy for street car. Thanks Andy 72 EP GT6 79 spit etc....... _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer at rdoequipment.com From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 21 22:12:43 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:12:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> > My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front > hubs get from braking. > I did a temp profile on Killer's brakes a number of years back when we were racing at Wendover. As I recall the caliper was about 800 - 850 degrees F, the outer portion of the disk around 900. If I recall correctly the hub and bearing area was around 450 - 500. When I start racing again I promise to actually write down this sort of stuff. And based on the few times I checked with my little infrared meter the concrete never got more than 50 - 60 degrees above air temp when it was in full sun. mjb. From mpendy at dishmail.net Tue Sep 21 22:35:52 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 21:35:52 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time References: Message-ID: <660AF262EB2C4EAB90B5D7B0B50E03FD@Pendys> Look closely at the 15-40 Delo 400, plenty of the zddp and it's not just for diesels. Mark P ----- Original Message ----- From: "f s" To: "triumph friends" Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 7:16 PM Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time > Hi All, > How long do you have to run oil with ZDDP in our engines when they are > newly > rebuilt??? I have 500 miles on a new motor and ready to do the first oil > change. Should I put oil with ZDDP back in? If so does anyone know of a > brand > that sells 10W40 or 5W30 oil with ZDDP? All I can find is strait 50W or > 20W50. > Way to heavy for street car. > Thanks > Andy > > 72 EP GT6 > > 79 spit etc....... > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mpendy at dishmail.net From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Tue Sep 21 23:19:13 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:19:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time References: Message-ID: <8CCA58AB2B404F159B884F68D0C5B00F@your89d26e0447> Chevron Delo 15w-40 motor oil has good levels of ZDDP. We use it in many street cars here in California. As long as the weather temperatures are above 50 deg. F. it should work well. Greg Solow From jibjib at att.net Tue Sep 21 23:41:39 2010 From: jibjib at att.net (jibjib at att.net) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 22:41:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] ZDDP break in time In-Reply-To: <660AF262EB2C4EAB90B5D7B0B50E03FD@Pendys> Message-ID: <126048.2535.qm@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I use the Delo diesel oil in my TR3 and TR8. Costco carries it four gallon jug cases. Jack --- On Tue, 9/21/10, Mark Pendergrass wrote: From: Mark Pendergrass Subject: Re: [Fot] ZDDP break in time To: "f s" , "triumph friends" Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2010, 9:35 PM Look closely at the 15-40 Delo 400, plenty of the zddp and it's not just for diesels. Mark P From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Sep 22 06:34:33 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 07:34:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803B5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> << Here's a urban myth to run by the group. ... They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads >> Or maybe LHD cars tend to run into curbs more often on the right side of the car than the left? Scott -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:03 PM To: davehogye Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as I've run into it more than once. They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would have the corresponding difference on the other side. Thoughts? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 21, 2010, at 6:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for > TRs. I'm about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are > reading a little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to > back, and on the short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the > front corner. The car did have a couple badly bent wheels on it > when I bought it, but it had no evidence of being in any nasty > fender benders and all of the body panels were original. It doesn't > seem like a real problem to me, but now would be the time to tweek > it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/scott.barr at mccarty-law.com From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 08:03:43 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:03:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <08027AB5-2DF4-4EC8-BABD-32E6A185D6CC@earthlink.net> Message-ID: with all the work that goes into a restoration and with the tub off at this time it would be great to get it on to a modern frame machine. The measures are accurate,and you will have peace of mind.Also if you have handling issues having the frame out of the equation will be a big help rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Belfer" To: "davehogye" Cc: "FOT Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 8:37 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? > Now is the time to get it straight and true, and beef up the most > stressed sections a little bit before popping the frame onto it. > > ~Steve > > > On Sep 21, 2010, at 5:34 PM, davehogye wrote: > > Hello all, > Does anyone know the tolerable limits to frame measurements for TRs. I'm > about to put my TR3 body back on the frame and things are reading a > little out. I have a 3/8" difference from front axles to back, and on the > short side, the right, it's about 3/8" up on the front corner. The car > did have a couple badly bent wheels on it when I bought it, but it had no > evidence of being in any nasty fender benders and all of the body panels > were original. It doesn't seem like a real problem to me, but now would > be the time to tweek it a bit and I do have access to a frame machine. > > > I'd appreciate any comments, > Dave H. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/19to1tr6 at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Sep 22 08:17:11 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 10:17:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <970583448.1543680.1285115695914.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From timmurph at fastbytes.com Wed Sep 22 10:27:21 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:27:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hub grease In-Reply-To: <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> I check the front rotor temps and front bearing temps (measured at the outer edge of the sheet metal hub cap) and the normal range of temperatures is about 350 to 450 for the discs and 150 to 225 on the hub caps. This is with an infrared thermometer. The checks are made as soon as the car gets into the paddock so the brake rotors have had some time to cool. I think the hubs, being a larger mass and not getting as much cooling air, might retain their temperature quite a bit longer. I just use the temps for comparative data to see how things are working. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 11:13 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Hub grease > My main concern would be over the temp, not sure how hot the front > hubs get from braking. > I did a temp profile on Killer's brakes a number of years back when we were racing at Wendover. As I recall the caliper was about 800 - 850 degrees F, the outer portion of the disk around 900. If I recall correctly the hub and bearing area was around 450 - 500. When I start racing again I promise to actually write down this sort of stuff. And based on the few times I checked with my little infrared meter the concrete never got more than 50 - 60 degrees above air temp when it was in full sun. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/timmurph at fastbytes.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 11:05:31 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Wed Sep 22 11:13:01 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:13:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old and probably absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you look up: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html Snipped: Fluid DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Castrol SRF 590 518 Performance Friction 550 284 Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers. Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street. ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars. Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly. Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff! Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point. Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson From RKramer at rdoequipment.com Wed Sep 22 11:24:20 2010 From: RKramer at rdoequipment.com (Kramer, Robert) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:24:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: I mention mostly using Castrol LMA; I've also used Wilwood 570 Racing Brake Fluid and it has a wet boiling point about the same as the Castrol stuff. Dry Boiling Point: 573 F Wet Boiling Point: 313 F Live and learn Bob Kramer Sales Manager RDO Equipment Company 16415 N. IH 35 Pflugerville, TX 78660 512-272-4141 Office 512-657-8526 Cell Dream big dreams, but never forget that realistic short-term goals are the keys to your success. ~Mac Anderson -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kramer, Robert Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:13 PM To: ''Friends of Triumph' Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. From kaskas at cox.net Wed Sep 22 12:07:22 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 11:07:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: ============= On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From lunkercars at earthlink.net Wed Sep 22 12:14:41 2010 From: lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:14:41 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: Fascinating! So as with many a myth, there is some truth. The shim would have been on opposite sides RHD vs. LHD. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 22, 2010, at 12:07 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear > spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left > front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of > people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high > and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in > racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. > ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: > > ============= > On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > >> Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to >> be true as >> I've run into it more than once. >> They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. >> RHD would >> have the corresponding difference on the other side. >> Thoughts? From bownes at seiri.com Wed Sep 22 12:15:33 2010 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:15:33 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: My 72 GT6 has a shim on top of the L front spring for what I presume is the same purpose. On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:07 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so > that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate > for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars > sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little > shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left > turn tracks. > ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: > > ============= > On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > > > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true > as > > I've run into it more than once. > > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD > would > > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > > Thoughts? > > I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person > can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is > within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of > the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on > the type of driving that you describe to the tech. > > Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ > of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- > 1/8" or less. > > My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and > plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at > how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car > from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of > alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start > stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common > problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner > weights or your attempts to accomodate them. > > Just my humble opiion, of course. > > regards, > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > 2010 NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net > > > > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com From herald948 at aol.com Wed Sep 22 12:39:59 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:39:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: References: <20100922140722.X761B.973543.imail@fed1rmwml39> Message-ID: <8CD289CB1F45132-E50-1756@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> With the GT6, and the Herald, that shim atop the LH front spring -- only on LH steering cars -- was primarily to compensate for the fact that both driver and fuel tank would be on the LH side of the car. RH steering versions did not have any shims in front, nor did Spitfires with their "centrally mounted" fuel tanks. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: robert bownes My 72 GT6 has a shim on top of the L front spring for what I presume is the same purpose. From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 13:19:11 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:19:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <132323578.1582882.1285183102875.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Kas, Thanks for chiming in. My car does have 2 shims, each the thickness of a leaf, on top of the right spring. The frame rails have a level read until right about the diagonal spring tower support on the right side. It goes up slightly and measures about 1/4" - 3/8" up at the front end of the rail on the right. The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. FYI, my car was originally sold through Cal Sales in 1960. Perhaps you had something to do about the shims being there. Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kas Kastner" To: "Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer" , "Robert M. Lang" Cc: Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 11:07:22 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? The TR-3 cars were assembled with a shim under the right rear spring so that the right rear was lower and that raised the left front to compensate for the drivers weight. We had dozens of people complain about their cars sitting with the left front high and all we had to do was take out he little shim. I used this in racing my car to adjsut for the various right and left turn tracks. ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: ============= On Tue, 21 Sep 2010, Greg ''Lunker'' Hilyer wrote: > Here's a urban myth to run by the group. I actually believe it to be true as > I've run into it more than once. > They were set-up that way to compensate for LHD on crowned roads. RHD would > have the corresponding difference on the other side. > Thoughts? I have no idea if this is UM, but I do know that a good alignment person can fine-tune your aligment for your driving style. If thrust angle is within spec, you can tweak the toe to get the car to react to the crown of the road aka, to track straighter with less steering input depening on the type of driving that you describe to the tech. Now, I honesty doubt that Triumph or any manufacturer would dial in _3/8"_ of twist to a frame. I'd be willing to bet that the frame specs are +/- 1/8" or less. My personal take on the question would be - get the frame square and plumb. You cannot go wrong with a solid baseline. Put another way, look at how much difference 1/16" of toe change can produce. You can turn a car from a PIG to a GEM with a small ajustment like that. 3/8 is a LOT of alignment to make up for with shims and so forth, especially if you start stacking tolerances (like bent suspension bits and so-forth) - a common problem for 50 year old cars. And twist will totally screw up your corner weights or your attempts to accomodate them. Just my humble opiion, of course. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 22 13:30:10 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:30:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <132323578.1582882.1285183102875.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <159950973.1582920.1285183150061.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. Are you sure your rear axle isn't bent? I have experimented with this... John H. From chasgee at aol.com Wed Sep 22 13:39:38 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:39:38 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire/GT6 composite leaf spring Message-ID: <8CD28A50716C95A-C48-4532@webmail-m087.sysops.aol.com> Anyone interested in one of these? I have one but will never use it. Contact me off list and I'll make you a good deal. Chuck Gee From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 13:57:19 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:57:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? In-Reply-To: <2045001877.1584902.1285185314395.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1240684446.1585161.1285185439018.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> All the measurements taken from frame points revealed similar differences; points like the shackles pins and front leaf spring pins. Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Herrera" To: dlhogye at comcast.net, "Kas Kastner" Cc: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:30:10 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] TR frame square, straightness? > The measurement that concerns me more is the distance between the front and rear axles is shorter by 3/8" on the right. Are you sure your rear axle isn't bent? I have experimented with this... John H. From fasttrs at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 14:07:44 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 13:07:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> Message-ID: <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with the natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? Mike #28 EP TR6 ________________________________ From: "Kramer, Robert" To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Wed, September 22, 2010 12:13:01 PM Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned that I need a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old and probably absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you look up: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html Snipped: Fluid DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Castrol SRF 590 518 Performance Friction 550 284 Bob Kramer _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 22 15:02:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:02:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <709599.94019.qm@web46110.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003001cb5a99$75c43480$614c9d80$@rr.com> > I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with > the > natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? I proved to my own satisfaction that that was true, back in the 70s. However, new replacement seals for at least the past 30 years or so appear to be compatible with all brake fluids. New fuel pump diaphragms are also compatible with ethanol, while originals (or at least some older replacements) apparently weren't. -- Randall From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Sep 22 19:51:53 2010 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:51:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] frame info, thanks In-Reply-To: <20144567.1603899.1285206652851.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <744690773.1603958.1285206713990.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks to everyone who replied to my frame questions. Once again the group came through with more than enough information to help me make some informed choices with how to approach this particular issue. I also acquired the correct dimensions and specification from VTR, TR expert, Bill Redinger. Thanks again to my FoT, Dave Hogye From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 22 21:23:34 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:23:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <69418950.795675.1285175131471.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C9AC836.5070708@bradakis.com> toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. From horizonracing at msn.com Wed Sep 22 22:39:43 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony & Annie Garmey) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:39:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps Message-ID: ap 550 for most of my cars & ap600 for the can am cars Randall wrote: >> I was told that the Castrol fluids were the only ones compatible with >> the >> natural rubber seals in our systems. What do you guys think? > >I proved to my own satisfaction that that was true, back in the 70s. >However, new replacement seals for at least the past 30 years or so appear >to be compatible with all brake fluids. > >New fuel pump diaphragms are also compatible with ethanol, while originals >(or at least some older replacements) apparently weren't. > >-- Randall >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 23 00:52:24 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 01:52:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> Message-ID: <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> Shortened version so it made it through. - Tony At 01:36 AM 9/23/2010, Tony Drews wrote: >I just switched to Castrol SRF (from LMA) this year after boiling my >fluid in a race - still did well but had to pump the pedal 5 times >going into most of the corners. Figured the wet boiling point >trumped most of what was out there. As you mentioned, kinda >spendy. As is racing in general... > >- Tony Drews > >At 12:13 PM 9/22/2010, Kramer, Robert wrote: >>With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the question of >>brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned >>that I need >>a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly used the >>Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 minute races I >>do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. >> >>I found this information on the webpage listed below while researching the >>matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. The wet >>boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart bottle I >>used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't resist >>moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my shelf that I >>have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old >>and probably >>absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this interests you >>look up: >> >>http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html >> >>Snipped: From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Thu Sep 23 05:17:07 2010 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 04:17:07 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps References: Message-ID: <26CE1780BC7246C2A5F17D7056CAA059@your89d26e0447> In our 1800 lbs. Morgan super sport with the standard brake calipers and rotors fitted. We have had very good luck using the Castrol LMA. We have a single tandem master cylinder , Girling brand. We replace the fluid at least every other event, or it the car has been unused for 7 months or more..The brakes aware used very hard. In two race weekends at Laguna Seca, (the track in our immediate area that is hardest on brakes) the outer caliper dust seal with get crisp so it will shatter at the slightest touch. The rubber seal material is obviously not up to the temperature that they reach.The rotor temperature reach 850 degrees. The only time we have ever experience fad caused by boiling fluid was when the fluid had not been replace in two years. After 3 laps of the first practice session, the pedal began to require two or three pumps to get any pressure at the pedal. Flushing the fluid and installing new LMA completely cured the problem. Regards, Greg Solow From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Thu Sep 23 05:19:40 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 07:19:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Rich Kristoff and Robert Jones re BAdges Message-ID: <3797C4F3-61F8-4C81-BB1D-A824756F9D43@aol.com> Your payments have been received Thank you Chris From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Thu Sep 23 08:42:16 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:42:16 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? Thx Ty #413 ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 09:15:03 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 11:15:03 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Brake Fluid temps In-Reply-To: <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> References: <20100920.224519.8507.0@webmail09.dca.untd.com> <19A4FBD1-43F5-4005-82B7-44C4F79B4871@comcast.net> <4C99823B.3080502@bradakis.com> <000501cb5a73$08f628c0$1ae27a40$@com> <7.1.0.9.0.20100923013350.058f8a60@tonydrews.com> <20100923065142.84C9918764F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <544AE0F6-FC0F-41C1-A86B-E43A6B393489@comcast.net> Pegasus catalog is a good source of temperature data on different brake fluids. I use Motul 600, though they also make a 660 (degrees). On Sep 23, 2010, at 2:52 AM, Tony Drews wrote: Shortened version so it made it through. - Tony At 01:36 AM 9/23/2010, Tony Drews wrote: > I just switched to Castrol SRF (from LMA) this year after boiling my > fluid in a race - still did well but had to pump the pedal 5 times > going into most of the corners. Figured the wet boiling point > trumped most of what was out there. As you mentioned, kinda > spendy. As is racing in general... > > - Tony Drews > > At 12:13 PM 9/22/2010, Kramer, Robert wrote: >> With all this talk about hub temps I thought I'd bring up the >> question of >> brake fluid temps. We did a 24 Hours of Lemon's race and I learned >> that I need >> a higher temp brake fluid for that type of racing. I have mostly >> used the >> Castrol LMA fluid which has worked fine for me in the 20 to 30 >> minute races I >> do, but we encountered severe brake fade in the Lemon's car. >> >> I found this information on the webpage listed below while >> researching the >> matter and I thought it might be of interest to others on the list. >> The wet >> boiling point attracted my interest as I think the brand new quart >> bottle I >> used was on my shelf for a while and they say the bottles don't >> resist >> moisture. Hmmm! I have a bottle of Lucas 550 Hi Temp fluid on my >> shelf that I >> have been saving. I should have used it because it is getting old >> and probably >> absorbed moisture through its plastic bottle. Anyhow if this >> interests you >> look up: >> >> http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html >> >> Snipped: _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 23 09:17:02 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:17:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Does anyone know the stock size for the flywheel bolts for a small crank Spitfire? 3/8-24 x 1 sounds familiar, but my manual doesn't say. Scott B. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 23 10:57:21 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:57:21 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <12278838.1285261041730.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net> A useful piece of info for the TR3/4 crank would be the specs to radius the main and big-end journals. ~Steve -----Original Message----- >From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com >Sent: Sep 23, 2010 7:42 AM >To: Mark J Bradakis , fot-bounces at autox.team.net, fot >Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > >I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. > >Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? > >Thx > >Ty >#413 >------Original Message------ >From: Mark J Bradakis >Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >To: fot >Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank >Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM > >toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: >> FoT >> >> I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do >> >> everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then >> >> shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. >> >> >Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once >any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other >treatments. > >mjb. >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > > > > >Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/colordog.1 at earthlink.net From jaboruch at netzero.com Thu Sep 23 13:04:34 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.com (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 19:04:34 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it. The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 13:18:01 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:18:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> References: <20100923.150434.5188.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it. The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 23 13:45:27 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:45:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: <20100923144200.39F5A18787C@autox.team.net> References: <20100923144200.39F5A18787C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CD296F01753A97-1710-138F@webmail-d037.sysops.aol.com> Ty, Post-mortem per Sean: "It appears that the liner split and caused hydraulic lock between piston and head. This broke the rod and the resulting flaying of the rod broke the camshaft and put holes in the block". "The head and the crank survived the failure, with some damage to the rod journal". This is somewhat consistent with two liner failures that Larry Young experienced. Our liners may have been compromised by water in block and a hard freeze after garage door was left open. This also explains why radiator exhibited a bulge in top and bottom tanks, a condition that we reported earlier in the year. "never be beaten by equipment .....or your attention to detail". to paraphrase Kas. Conjecture presented here and willing to listen to other theories. Joe -----Original Message----- From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com To: Mark J Bradakis ; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2010 9:42 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I am very interested in any other responses to Jim's questions. I plan on building up a stock motor this winter. The crank seems to a weak link and any help this group can provide is certainly appreciated. Joe, did you ever diagnose why the motor went at Topeka? Thx Ty #413 ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Sent: Sep 22, 2010 9:23 PM toodamnfunky at comcast.net wrote: > FoT > > I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do > > everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then > > shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. > > Right off the bat I would say magnaflux, then balance. Once any balance grinding is done, then continue with the other treatments. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 23 14:00:08 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:00:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <188313800.851632.1285272008409.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead time. Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag B it. B The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. B You may B find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank B and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. B IMHO B spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. B The billet crank with some Pauter B rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. B My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which B destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. B B Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing B it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the B opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or B manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 23 14:03:19 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:03:19 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.160319.3022.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com> It has been at least 5 years since I have bought from them. I think back then it was about $1700. Their contact information (no it is not me) is: contact Joe @ 313-561-7676 or 313-387-6099 with any questions and pricing. Fax 313-5617024 joe at moldexcrankshaft.com From: Scott Janzen To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:18:01 -0400 What is the price on a Moldex these days? ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9bb29acff75cd4cst06duc From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 23 14:05:08 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:05:08 GMT Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: <20100923.160508.3022.1@webmail07.dca.untd.com> Yes, expect 2-3 months, but the first time I bought they happened to have one on the shelf, so i got lucky. The 2nd time it was 2-3 months. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: Scott Janzen Cc: Joe Boruch , 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:00:08 +0000 (UTC) According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead time. Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Joe Boruch" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 1:18:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank What is the price on a Moldex these days? On Sep 23, 2010, at 3:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag B it. B The radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. B You may B find that after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank B and that you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. B IMHO B spend the extra $ and get a billet crank. B The billet crank with some Pauter B rods make a very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not regretted it. B My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which B destroyed pistons and Carrillo rods. B B Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC) FoT I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing B it, then shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding. I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve ( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can. I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the B opportunity to try Chris's new rear main seal. Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or B manufacturers? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim G # 102 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4c9ba52fe039375a8b4st06duc _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Thu Sep 23 15:52:53 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 16:52:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank Message-ID: Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I don't think he has talked to them in a while. I believe the last price was $2250.00, with less lead time due to the economy. Bob Kramer Volente, TX > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Scott Janzen" > Cc: "Joe Boruch" ; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" > > Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > > >> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead >> time. >> >> Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? From kaskas at cox.net Thu Sep 23 15:59:26 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 14:59:26 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100923175927.D0IKJ.1008278.imail@fed1rmwml44> You might check with Mordy Dunst. Mordy had several made and might have another. Good pieces. ---- Bob Kramer wrote: ============= Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank I don't think he has talked to them in a while. I believe the last price was $2250.00, with less lead time due to the economy. Bob Kramer Volente, TX > Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch > excellence. > Vince Lombardi > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Scott Janzen" > Cc: "Joe Boruch" ; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" > > Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank > > >> According to Ken G. it is between $ 1400 & 1600 with fairly long lead >> time. >> >> Not sure what that means, 2 months - 3 months ?? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskas at cox.net -- Never be beaten by equipment From cwnfot at gmail.com Thu Sep 23 18:49:42 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:49:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A803E5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <012e01cb5b82$614b6c00$23e24400$@com> They should be the same, 1300 or 1147 engine, ARP has them but the website doesn't give all the specs. http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Triumph_Parts/t_Fasteners.htm Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner "Reality, it's not what you think." From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Sep 23 19:01:20 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:01:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Pegasus has them - I just needed to confirm the size. They're sold as 1600 Formula Ford flywheel bolts in a set of 6. Thanks! Scott B. ----- Original Message ----- From: Clark W. Nicholls To: Barr, Scott; Fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu Sep 23 19:49:42 2010 Subject: RE: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts They should be the same, 1300 or 1147 engine, ARP has them but the website doesn't give all the specs. http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Triumph_Parts/t_Fasteners.htm Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner "Reality, it's not what you think." From billdentin at aol.com Thu Sep 23 19:08:39 2010 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 21:08:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Small-crank Spitfire flywheel bolts In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401A8040B@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <8CD299C2865A68D-1310-8110@webmail-m096.sysops.aol.com> <<< Pegasus has them - I just needed to confirm the size. They're sold as 1600 ormula Ford flywheel bolts in a set of 6. >>> The BASTARDS! Now they'll sell for 250% more than if they were Spitfire bolts. Bill (Damdinger) From jsiam1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 23 21:09:59 2010 From: jsiam1 at earthlink.net (Joseph Siam) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:09:59 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Fot] Tire pressures Hoosier A30 Message-ID: <8125634.1285297799114.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi does any Spitfire racers have a tire pressure setting cold for a Hoosier A30. We are heading down to HMSAs Coronado event this weekend and have never used these tires. thanks Joe Chequered Flag Racing .net Joseph P. Siam 9833 Deering Ave unit I Chatsworth Ca 91311 818 350 6222 From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 23 22:38:51 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 23:38:51 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Non-car related but way cool Message-ID: <20100924043810.60BE4187682@autox.team.net> They put cameras on the backs of a couple of fast / maneuverable birds. I found this breathtaking. About a 3 min video. http://mediacaffeine.com/perspectives/environmental/put-cameras-on-a-peregrine-falcon-and-a-goshawk-prepare-to-be-amazed/ Makes driving the race car seem pedestrian. - Tony Drews From harmug at us.ibm.com Fri Sep 24 06:58:55 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 08:58:55 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod Message-ID: Runoff news Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. G. Michael Harmuth race car - 63 Spitfire From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 07:17:37 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (donmarshall at nefcom.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:17:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast Message-ID: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> We can watch the races live starting this morning at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/ According to the schedule, EP starts at 2:30 this afternoon (central time I think). Don -- From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 07:27:01 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:27:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction Message-ID: We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don -- From dave at microworks.net Fri Sep 24 08:18:17 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:18:17 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: <063721C0069240F489C07FA99E8096CA@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <063721C0069240F489C07FA99E8096CA@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF035256@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Site seems to have crashed -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Marshall Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:28 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 08:29:49 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 07:29:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF035256@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <486950.42473.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com> I was able to watch the T3/STU race and now they're showing the sighting lap for F500. --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Dave Riddle wrote: From: Dave Riddle Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction To: "FoTTriumph" Date: Friday, September 24, 2010, 9:18 AM Site seems to have crashed -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Marshall Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 6:28 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at 9:30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this afternoon. Don _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From billdentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 10:24:39 2010 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:24:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast - correction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CD2A1C1F07E323-2B4-1BA8@webmail-m094.sysops.aol.com> We can watch the races live at http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/. I misread the schedule... they're supposed to start the first races at :30 eastern this morning, and EP is to start at 2:30 eastern this fternoon. I am about an hour south and west of ROAD AMERICA. The weather this morning was weepy. Now it is cool (mid 50s) cloudy, and VERY windy. Bill Dentinger From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:05:31 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:05:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Message-ID: <778622.70766.qm@web57605.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the connection here in southeast Wisconsin. Ernie From sm1ski at dslextreme.com Fri Sep 24 12:20:36 2010 From: sm1ski at dslextreme.com (sm1ski @dslextreme.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:20:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com From jerrybarr at charter.net Fri Sep 24 12:32:59 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (jerrybarr at charter.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:32:59 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Message-ID: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay ------Original Message------ From: Ernest Husmann Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the connection here in southeast Wisconsin. Ernie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone From riverside at southslope.net Fri Sep 24 12:38:34 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:38:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <002401cb5c17$b1f83cb0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> I'm getting "page error" messages on my computer art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Ernest Husmann" ; ; "FOT" Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 1:32 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby > sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 12:39:05 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:39:05 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: I still have it here, but it won't open on full screen. Sam Halkias is 5th now, under full course caution. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:32:59 -0400, wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby > sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 12:40:59 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Sep 24 12:46:01 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (macdonaldp) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:46:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <25305.4132.qm@smtp102.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Working good in Canada -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg "Lunker" Hilyer Sent: September 24, 2010 2:41 PM To: jerrybarr at charter.net Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com From donmarshall at nefcom.net Fri Sep 24 12:48:57 2010 From: donmarshall at nefcom.net (Don Marshall) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:48:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: It might be an Internet Explorer problem. I tried it on IE and get error messages, but its working fine on my Opera browser and apparently Foxfire works too. They're back to green with Sam in 5th now. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:40:59 -0400, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby >> sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:50:49 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 11:50:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <330097.21580.qm@web57604.mail.re1.yahoo.com> I'm now getting the stream via Firefox. It must be an Explorer issue. Ernie --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Don Marshall wrote: From: Don Marshall Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV To: jerrybarr at charter.net, ""Greg "Lunker" Hilyer"" Cc: "FOT" Date: Friday, September 24, 2010, 1:48 PM It might be an Internet Explorer problem. I tried it on IE and get error messages, but its working fine on my Opera browser and apparently Foxfire works too. They're back to green with Sam in 5th now. Don On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:40:59 -0400, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/donmarshall at nefcom.net > > -- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ehusmann53 at yahoo.com From tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:47:39 2010 From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com (tylerpthompson at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. Go Sam! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 To: Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com From jaxonracing at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 12:57:26 2010 From: jaxonracing at yahoo.com (jaxonracing at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:57:26 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net><20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> Message-ID: For me as well.... Go sam -----Original Message----- From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; ; Reply-To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. Go Sam! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 To: Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. Getting it fine on Firefox Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. > Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay > ------Original Message------ > From: Ernest Husmann > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV > Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM > > Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the > connection here in southeast Wisconsin. > > Ernie > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jerrybarr at charter.net > > > > > Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tylerpthompson at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaxonracing at yahoo.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 13:01:22 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:01:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net><20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <604EBA45-360A-4976-8B3F-5DED62D8EA1E@earthlink.net> Spread out with Sam about 12 seconds back in 6th. Miata 1st - RX3 2nd - go Rotary! Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:57 PM, jaxonracing at yahoo.com wrote: > For me as well.... Go sam > -----Original Message----- > From: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:47:39 > To: Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer; bounces at autox.team.net>; > Reply-To: tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > > Keep the updates coming for the poor saps like me who can't watch. > Go Sam! > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Greg \"Lunker\" Hilyer" > Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 12:40:59 > To: > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Speedcast TV > > For those not getting it, they're under yellow with Sam in 5th. > Getting it fine on Firefox > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 12:32 PM, jerrybarr at charter.net wrote: > >> I'm not getting it on my blackberry. I haven't tried my computer. >> Baby sitting grandkids in Green Bay >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Ernest Husmann >> Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: FOT >> Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV >> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 1:05 PM >> >> Is anyone getting the live feed from Speedcast TV? We have lost the >> connection here in southeast Wisconsin. >> >> Ernie >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ >> jerrybarr at charter.net >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my U.S. Cellular BlackBerry. smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ >> lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > tylerpthompson at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > jaxonracing at yahoo.com From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 13:38:39 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:38:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Speedcast TV In-Reply-To: References: <1294131311-1285353180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-638313962-@bda835.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <6F3B425C-3BE6-428A-A635-3C806F790308@earthlink.net> <20100924185525.04213187881@autox.team.net> <901106869-1285354647-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-951313924-@bda2946.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <604EBA45-360A-4976-8B3F-5DED62D8EA1E@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Miata 1st, Z car 2nd, RX3 3rd. Lost track of Sam - out of the top 6 but I can't find results. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 1:15 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > > On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 2:01 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > wrote: > Spread out with Sam about 12 seconds back in 6th. Miata 1st - RX3 > 2nd - go Rotary! > > > Jon Brakke in a Miata won EP. Back when I was working corners, he > was racing a Yenko Stinger. > > Irv Korey From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 14:19:08 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 14:19:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> References: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> Message-ID: <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:17 AM, donmarshall at nefcom.net wrote: > We can watch the races live starting this morning at > > http://www.speedcasttv.com/scca/ > > According to the schedule, EP starts at 2:30 this afternoon > (central time > I think). Don > -- > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 14:28:29 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 15:28:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: References: <20100924131741.693F11C0713@smtp0.av-mx.com> <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Irv Korey Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast To: Greg Lunker Hilyer On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, > thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. > Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and Scoring: *2:09:51pm* * * *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg Ira, Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 14:30:26 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:30:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <2E581BC1-B572-43D6-AE19-7BF71A697C2F@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <908807.58632.qm@web57615.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Yeah Marshall, Don thanks! Have you any idea the anxiety I went through when I lost the hook up via Explorer? Okay it wasn't really that bad but hopefully I made you feel the slightest bit of remorse. --- On Fri, 9/24/10, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer wrote: Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 7:17 AM, donmarshall at nefcom.net wrote: From ehusmann53 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 24 14:41:22 2010 From: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com (Ernest Husmann) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 13:41:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <68983.94252.qm@web57608.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping the marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. Enjoy, Ernie From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 14:48:59 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:48:59 EDT Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> In a message dated 09/24/2010 3:41:40 PM Central Daylight Time, ehusmann53 at yahoo.com writes: > Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping > the > marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. > > We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. > Amen to that, and I thought I heard he was on the pole in both races. I'll bet he's running those expensive FF flywheel bolts from Pegasus. Bill (Damdinger) From norlinengineering at comcast.net Fri Sep 24 15:14:47 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (James Norlin) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:14:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast Message-ID: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> Sam drove off at turn 5 and into the paddock around mid race. -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 3:28 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Irv Korey Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast To: Greg Lunker Hilyer On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But actually, > thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. > Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and Scoring: *2:09:51pm* * * *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg Ira, Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net [The entire original message is not included] From awashatko at wi.rr.com Fri Sep 24 15:51:47 2010 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:51:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast In-Reply-To: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> References: <20100924211421.2B56F187649@autox.team.net> Message-ID: He broke his rear diff. He was running 5th/6th otherwise. Allen On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:14 PM, James Norlin wrote: > Sam drove off at turn 5 and into the paddock around mid race. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Irv Korey > Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 3:28 PM > To: FOT > Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Runoffs webcast > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Irv Korey > Date: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:28 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs webcast > To: Greg Lunker Hilyer > > > > > On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 3:19 PM, Greg "Lunker" Hilyer < > Lunkercars at earthlink.net> wrote: > >> Curses to you for posting this! There goes the afternoon. But >> actually, >> thanks - great stuff. The battle for 2nd/3rd in DSR was breathtaking. >> Still don't know where Sam finished. Anybody? >> > > Results are not posted yet. Here's the last posting from Timing and > Scoring: > > *2:09:51pm* > * > * > *The final Pace American E Production top five were Jon Brakke, Greg > Ira, > Aaron Downey, Sam Moore, and James Simaras.* > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > > [The entire original message is not included] > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/awashatko at wi.rr.com > > Allen & Jody Washatko 1971 TR6 - Number 6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 24 15:54:41 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:54:41 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kudos In-Reply-To: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> References: <689f1.4f1c5f60.39ce68bb@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2A4A3A164275-1724-1DE8@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing themselves on the stone. -----Original Message----- From: BillDentin at aol.com To: ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 3:48 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos In a message dated 09/24/2010 3:41:40 PM Central Daylight Time, ehusmann53 at yahoo.com writes: > Regardless of where Sam finished he still deserves big kudos for keeping > the > marque well represented among the more modern tin. Thanks Sam. > > We still have a couple Spitfires to cheer for this year; GO STEVE. > Amen to that, and I thought I heard he was on the pole in both races. I'll bet he's running those expensive FF flywheel bolts from Pegasus. Bill (Damdinger) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Sep 24 16:18:25 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 18:18:25 EDT Subject: [Fot] Kudos Message-ID: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that > the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The > lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing > themselves on the stone. >>> > > Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. Surly the > vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? But for > sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The deterioration is > actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every spring, racers > in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but at four thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). Bill (Damdinger) From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 17:10:05 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:10:05 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kudos In-Reply-To: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> Message-ID: <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. Maybe it's the accent. Can you translate please Tim? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > lunkercars at earthlink.net From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Sep 24 17:44:02 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 17:44:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs and web-tv Message-ID: <7DC9FA28-CCF9-4A93-BAE4-42F9CD7A43D8@earthlink.net> Honestly, the last time I watched so much racing on a screen, Chris Economaki was doing the commentary. How cool to happen to see two guys I actually know - live - racing for National Championships - on a live web-cast - on a track I know... Sometimes I DO like technology. [Jeremy Treadway was 2nd in FF. He's the guy that bought Connie's 510 and made it beautiful in about 3 weeks]. Sorry to hear about your DNF Sam. AND - The only reason I know my way around that track is because Tony Drews let me do it in his car. That is a gift that keeps on giving. Have I said "thanks" lately Tony?! Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Fri Sep 24 19:57:59 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:57:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Badge up date 9-24-10 Message-ID: <5EE0A64E-BBC7-4E46-A346-25CCCFBC7501@aol.com> Amici Nothing really new to report. 53 badges are paid for so far. Cost is still $30 per badge. These are going to be made, so If you have paid, you will be getting one. Payment can be PayPal (SeaCubeCo at aol.com) or Mail (Chris Bock, 3630 Italia Ave, Vineland, NJ 08361) If you are looking to see what they look like there are two ways. First way. You can ask me to send you the proof art for it. Or..... Second way. There is a pic posted on the FOT FaceBook Page. Thanks Chris Bock From mpendy at dishmail.net Fri Sep 24 22:05:48 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 21:05:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold Message-ID: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Sep 24 22:28:46 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 00:28:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America In-Reply-To: <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> <2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8CD2A81475066BC-E1C-F041@Webmail-m116.sysops.aol.com> As a masonry contractor, one of Bill's last erections, was a monument to Bob Wismer's stunning S-2000 CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES win with MSCC. It was placed on the pathway heading Turn 5 at Road America. Tony should have shown you this monument so you could play 'biker' on it. -----Original Message----- From: Greg "Lunker" Hilyer To: BillDentin at aol.com Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 6:10 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about. Maybe it's the accent. Can you translate please Tim? Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/> lunkercars at earthlink.net From riverside at southslope.net Sat Sep 25 08:48:39 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:48:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com><2219ABD4-F97D-4B04-82FD-75787B148A0C@earthlink.net> <8CD2A81475066BC-E1C-F041@Webmail-m116.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001001cb5cc0$c11adaf0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Joe, you're makiing it sound like Bill is done dingin'! Say it ain't so!! art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 11:28 PM Subject: [Fot] Bob "Whirling" Wismer Monument At Road America > As a masonry contractor, one of Bill's last erections, was a monument to > Bob > Wismer's stunning S-2000 CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES win with MSCC. > > It was placed on the pathway heading Turn 5 at Road America. Tony should > have > shown you this monument so you could play 'biker' on > it. > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > To: BillDentin at aol.com > Cc: n197tr4 at cs.com; ehusmann53 at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2010 6:10 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Kudos > > > Not all that uncommon, but I don't have a clue what you guys are talking > about. Maybe it's the accent. > Can you translate please Tim? > > Greg "Lunker" Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > On Sep 24, 2010, at 4:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > >> In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, >> n197tr4 at cs.com writes: >> >> >>> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It >> appears >>> that >>> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >>> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have >> been > rubbing >>> themselves on the stone. >>> >>> >>> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. >> Surly >>> the >>> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? >> But > for >>> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The >> > deterioration is >>> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every >> spring, > racers >>> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. >> >> Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but > at > four >> thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). >> >> >> Bill (Damdinger) >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/> > lunkercars at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From fpspitfire at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 09:42:57 2010 From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <873211577.402691.1285429377732.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Steve is running the 1500 in the blue car in F-Prod and the 1147 in the red car in H-Prod. Steve has always had is game together.B I wouldn't be surprised to see him with two wins after the two poles aaron ----- Original Message ----- From: "sm1ski @dslextreme.com" To: "George Harmuth" Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:20:36 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. B Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > B Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > B SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > B posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Sep 25 10:18:48 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 12:18:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod In-Reply-To: <873211577.402691.1285429377732.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CD2AE4785B87D2-1754-26882@webmail-d066.sysops.aol.com> interesting guy....paddocked by himself at a remote area of the track....not anywhere near to anything near corner station 3. john reed (GT6) was hanging out on Friday ... all quiet and appeared ready to go. i'll be watching both races.... as you remember he was knocked out early in the race last year by an errant turn of someone else's wheel. -----Original Message----- From: fpspitfire at comcast.net To: sm1ski @dslextreme.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net; George Harmuth Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2010 10:42 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod Steve is running the 1500 in the blue car in F-Prod and the 1147 in the red car in H-Prod. Steve has always had is game together.B I wouldn't be surprised to see him with two wins after the two poles aaron ----- Original Message ----- From: "sm1ski @dslextreme.com" To: "George Harmuth" Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 2:20:36 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Runoffs- Spitfire has poles in F prod and H prod I am assuming that Sargis is running the 1500 in HP. B Is that correct mike kowalski 1500 FP spit raton, NM On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 6:58 AM, George Harmuth wrote: > Runoff news > > > > > B Steve Sargis, of Frankfort, Ill., held the top spot of both the H > Production and F Production charts. Driving the No. 18 > B SBS Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire 1500 in FP, Sargis is on the > pole with a time of 2:30.789 (95.498 mph) and > B posted a best time of 2:41.988 (88.895 mph) in a different No. 18 SS > Batteries/Goodyear Tire Triumph Spitfire in HP. > > > > > > > G. Michael Harmuth > > race car - 63 Spitfire > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fpspitfire at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From dave at microworks.net Sat Sep 25 10:45:21 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 09:45:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New track in SoCal Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF03525F@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> Located out by Palm Springs. It is only 475K for a founders family membership. This includes your entire family for life. But if this is a little steep you could just get the 125K standard membership. Let me know how many you want. lol http://thermal122.memfirstweb.net/Club/Scripts/Home/home.asp From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 25 10:48:25 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 11:48:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold In-Reply-To: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> References: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Message-ID: <20100925164738.7C88518767D@autox.team.net> I assume this is for a TR 3 or 4. It is normal to reinforce the intake manifold between the runner and the flange to prevent it from cracking there. One way to do that is to create a triangular piece of aluminum plate and have it welded to the flange and the top of the runners. - Tony Drews At 11:05 PM 9/24/2010, Mark Pendergrass wrote: >Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 >fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their >headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight >hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have >had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around >from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor >to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Sep 25 10:55:06 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 18:55:06 +0200 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold In-Reply-To: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> References: <4603F5E1119B4915BB7819659D0C4D65@Pendys> Message-ID: <000901cb5cd2$69caff70$3d60fe50$@com> My car does run Webers. I simply did bolt the Webers to the manifold and use shortened Overdrive springs as spacer so that the Webers can move it the engine does start to vibrate. The installation of the carbs is flexible. Maybe that prevent it from breaking? The manifold comes from Triumph Tune. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Mark Pendergrass Gesendet: Samstag, 25. September 2010 06:06 An: friends of triumph Betreff: [Fot] cracked manifold Family, found cracks on all four intake ports at the flange, one of the 5/16 fine thread support rods had also broke. Does anyone have welded tabs on their headers for these rods or do you run without them?? Is there to much weight hanging out there?? Never have had an issue before but i don't think i have had the engine that hot before. Did my rods keep things from moving around from expansion thus causeing the cracks. The rods are adjusted not to push nor to pull.Any input??......Thanks Mark P From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Sat Sep 25 14:06:26 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg Lunker Hilyer) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:06:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Steve Sargis H Prod Champion! Message-ID: <7B91792F-0811-4D7A-B98D-1E34B3B3AFDB@earthlink.net> Congratulations to Steve for a brilliant drive. With the win bagged, he continued breaking the track record in the Spit lap after lap. 2:39.0 I think! Lapped two thirds of the field. Greg "Lunker" Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Sep 25 16:45:20 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 16:45:20 -0600 Subject: [Fot] High Plains Raceway video Message-ID: <20100925224448.88CA2187647@autox.team.net> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2NdtD38v-8 FoT If anybody's interested I just posted some video from High Plains Raceway in Colorado. Now that I have some spare time I will get caught up and post the Kastner Cup footage. Jim g # 102 From mail at myvrl.com Fri Sep 17 07:33:48 2010 From: mail at myvrl.com (The Vintage Racing League) Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 13:33:48 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Fot] The 2010 Goodwood Revival Message-ID: <3889727.16531291284730428998.JavaMail.xncore@z101b25.ningops.com> A message to all members of The Vintage Racing League Once again, Lord March and his wonderful team have assembled the world's bext collection of historic and vintage race cars for the Goodwood Revival. ERA's, Ferrari's, Jaguars, Maserati's, Coopers and the largest assembly of BRM's, recognising the 60th anniversary of the marquee.  This event represents the pinnacle of historic motorsports in the world! Meet Stirling Moss, Nick Mason of Pink Floyd, Derek Bell, Jackie Oliver, Martin Brundel, Brian Redman, Bobby Rahal, Paddins Dowling and many other famous racing drivers as they compete on the historic Goodwood motor racing circuit. Friday is tune, test and grid prepaation day with a full race schedule on Saturday and Sunday, the 18th and 19th of September. Once again, the event has sold out with some 150,000 attendees expected to participate in the event. In addition to fabulous cars and racing, the event incorporates an airshow with hisoric planes to include Spitfires, Hurricanes and various bombers.   John Surtees Motor sport great John Surtees b the only man ever to be crowned world champion on two and four wheels b will be honoured with a special tribute over the three days. bBig Johnb will be reunited with many of the machines he rode or drove in period, from Triumph Tiger 70 motorcycle to the Surtees-Hart TS10 in which he won the Imola Gold Cup towards the end of his competition career. BRM The sixtieth anniversary of British Formula One constructor BRM will also be celebrated with more than 30 examples of the Bourne marque taking to the circuit for a cavalcade in addition to many of the drivers who raced b or in some instances, braved b the cars from 1948 to 1977. Star Drivers and Riders Star names racing this year include legends such as Sir Stirling Moss who will be out in his OSCA for the Madgwick Cup and Le Mans deity Tom Kristensen who will be taming a Ferrari 330LMB in the TT Celebration. Red Bull team principal and former F3000 man Christian Horner will also be driving in this one-hour race, up against the F1 squadbs designer Adrian Newey. Australian ace Wayne Gardner will also be a shoe-in for victory in the ever-popular Barry Sheene Memorial Trophy motorcycle race, the first part of which gets underway tomorrow. Aviation Aviation is a major constituent of the Revival and this year the seventieth anniversary of the Battle of Britain is naturally a key theme, with surviving veterans of the conflict in attendance. Air displays, along with The Freddie March Spirit of Aviation concours, add an extra dimension to the event and are not to be missed. Book now for 2011 - this event is a must for all :-)))) Warmest and happy regards from Goodwood Stephen Page Chairman & CEO The Vintage Racing League Visit The Vintage Racing League at: http://www.myvrl.com/?xg_source=msg_mes_network -------------------- To control which emails you receive on The Vintage Racing League, or to opt-out, go to: http://www.myvrl.com/profiles/profile/emailSettings?xg_source=msg_mes_network From mail at myvrl.com Sat Sep 18 05:36:01 2010 From: mail at myvrl.com (The Vintage Racing League) Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:36:01 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Fot] Live from the Goodwood Revival 2010 - Day Two Message-ID: <29133715.25249471284809761307.JavaMail.xncore@z100412.ningops.com> A message to all members of The Vintage Racing League   Pre b62 Formula Juniors Ben Simms took a convincing victory in the Chichester Cup for pre b62 Formula Juniors from early leader, Sir John Chisholm. The latter blasted ahead from pole position aboard his Gemini Mk3A only for Elva man Simms to scythe past on the inside into Woodcote. At quarter-distance into the 20-minute race the order remained static as the safety car was deployed to attend to stricken cars. With racing resuming with ten minutes left to run, Chisholm and Simms resumed their private battle as they streaked ahead of the chasing pack. Simms was last of the late brakers as he fought to keep his twitchy short wheelbase car ahead of the faster Gemini. He held on to the flag to win by 0.4-second with Elva man Chris Drake fishing third some 29.7-second behind them. bHe didnbt make it easy,b said a delighted Simms. bThe safety car bunched us up but it was close right to the end once we began racing again. There was a lot of oil out there which focussed the attention.b   Mark Gillies claims victory aboard Mary Smithbs ERA A-type R3A Mark Gillies claimed Goodwood Trophy honours in crushing fashion aboard Mary Smithbs ERA A-type R3A on Saturday morning. The Detroit-based Briton had a poor start from the all ERA front row, losing out initially to J Mac Hulbert and Paddins Dowling, the latter taking the initiative as they headed through Madgwick towards Fordwater for the first time. Gillies moved up to second through the kink before St Marybs on the following lap, the gap to Dowling remaining static at 1.2-seconds to the end of the fourth lap. Into the fifth tour, Irishman Dowling experienced car trouble and retired shortly thereafter. Matt Grist moved his way up the order in the fastest of the Alfa Romeo Tipo Bs, taking second place with six minutes to go as Hulbert performed a series of heroic saves after oil spilled onto his rear tyres. Up front Gillies was unchallenged and led home Grist by eight seconds from Maserati driver Frank Stipler who jumped Hulbert in the dying stages. Julian Majzub finished fifth aboard his Alfa Romeo 308C. bI have a history of bad starts here,b said the victor later. bPaddins kept me honest in the opening laps and it was a shame that he retired. The carbs fantastic here. Itbs a magic car, a magic circuit and a magic event.b   Celebrating BRM The 2010 Goodwood Revival witnessed a special celebration of 60 years of the BRM marque. More than 30 cars spanning more than three decades of the Bourne squadbs history took to the circuit, ranging from the famous b infamous even b V16 P15 Mk1 to the Collier Collectionbs 1962 Formula One World Championship-winning R578 bOld Faithfulb. Among the many BRM bold boysb in attendance was Richard Attwood, who famously finished a fighting second in the 1968 Monaco Grand Prix on being recalled to the team at very short notice. The Le Mans victor said: bI had a good relationship with BRM during an era when it was doing relatively well. I really admired the effort of the Rubery Owen Group for sticking with it and racing for Great Britain.b   A Magical step back in time The Goodwood Revival really is a magical step back in time, a unique chance to revel in the glamour and allure of motor racing in the romantic time capsule of the golden era of motor racing at one of the worldbs most authentic circuits.   The Revival is the worldbs most popular historic motor race meeting and the only event of its kind to be staged entirely in the nostalgic time capsule of the 1940s, 50s and 60s that relives the glory days of Goodwood Motor Circuit. It is the biggest and best historic motor racing party of the year. The Revival offers visitors the opportunity to leave the bmodern worldb behind and join motor sport luminaries including Sir Stirling Moss, Richard Attwood, John Surtees and Derek Bell in an unabashed celebration of flat-out wheel-to-wheel racing around a classic racetrack, untouched by the modern world. Ticket Sales: Ticket Sales: +44 (0)1243 755055  E: ticket.office at goodwood.com (mailto:ticket.office at goodwood.com)| The Goodwood Estate, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0PX Visit The Vintage Racing League at: http://www.myvrl.com/?xg_source=msg_mes_network -------------------- To control which emails you receive on The Vintage Racing League, or to opt-out, go to: http://www.myvrl.com/profiles/profile/emailSettings?xg_source=msg_mes_network From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 14:44:47 2010 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 15:44:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Sargis Wins HP Championship in his (other) Spitfire Message-ID: Congratulations to Steve Sargis - again http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=4012. From Billb at bnj.com Sun Sep 26 17:44:18 2010 From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:44:18 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Coronado In-Reply-To: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> References: <6bf26.50573543.39ce7db1@aol.com> Message-ID: <1B1F552A-F0F1-4C01-A6D4-0A1CD503E8A8@bnj.com> Big fun. Finished third against a bunch of listers a tipo 61 and Thor johnsons fine drive in his lotus. Huge crowd, lots to look at. Good event. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 24, 2010, at 3:18 PM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 09/24/2010 4:59:55 PM Central Daylight Time, > n197tr4 at cs.com writes: > > >> <<< TODAY we visited WISMER'S HEADSTONE at ROAD AMERICA. It appears that >> the SOCIETY OF PERPETUAL CARE has been neglecting the Monument. The >> lettering is no longer legible. We suspect that many women have been rubbing >> themselves on the stone. >>> >> >> Baloney! The Society of Perpetual Care is doing their part. Surly the >> vigil lights were in place and lit. Track lighting still there? But for >> sure, there ain't no women rubbing their bodies on it. The deterioration is >> actually acidity. Borrowing an old Bikers Tradition, every spring, racers >> in the know, respectfully take a leak on it. > > Thus...as impressive as it is, it probably won't last for ever (but at four > thousand plus pounds, it is going to out last all of us guys). > > > Bill (Damdinger) > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billb at bnj.com From s.janzen at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 18:26:02 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:26:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] NJMP (Millville) VRG Race report, brake failure and corner weighting Message-ID: There were four Triumphs out of about 135 entries at Millville this weekend. Dave Spiwak (TR2) and I (GT6) were in the same group, but did not get to do much racing together as Dave experienced fuel/ electrical(?) troubles all weekend. Dave Miller in his well prepared TR4 was in with the Porsches and some of the other fast stuff, and Kent Bain was running a Spitfire in the small bore group. New Jersey Motorsports Park has two decent nice tracks, and VRG runs a good event with tons of track time. Of note, in addition to this event in the Fall next year, they will be co-sponsoring one in May 2011 with VSCCA. The tracks are on the site of a WWII era air base, and there were vintage warbirds flying in and out all weekend, including this polished aluminum bomber that looked amazing (ok, so I don't know my planes). The Spring 2011 event will combine the races with a major vintage air show, including the Blue Angels (I know, they're not vintage). There's a really nice WWII air museum on the base, put together by all of the pilots and crew that operated out of Millville over the years. Brake failure - I loaded my car right after the last event (a fifteen lap race) without looking at it. Went to roll it out of the trailer and into the garage - decent puddle of tan fluid on the trailer floor in the driver's left engine bay area, and all around the tire. I figured it was oil - hey, it's a British car - forgetting that I'm running Brad Penn, which is green, not brown. Got it in the garage and took a look - no oil leaking from the usual places. Opened up the front master reservoir - bone dry! Don't know if this was going during the race - it had not lost fluid all weekend - or if it just cooked out after the race when the seal gave up. I pulled the caliper and the seals were a little "dry" and cracked on the edges where they bear on the pistons, though the seals were still flexible and intact. Apparently this will now become at least a seasonal rebuild - I don't think I have touched these for three years, other than changing the fluid. Question that I know has come up before - the bellows type dust seals were just crispy and crumbling. Is it worth installing new ones, or can we just run without them? I wonder if part of the reason for the brake failure is related to these - I just put in new pads, and had to push the pistons back into the caliper to do so. When I removed the pistons, the outer portion that sits in the area of the dust seals had black gunk on it - melted seals, which might have damaged the o-rings when the pistons were pushed back in? Corner weighting - I had been complaining of understeer, and was contemplating different springs, anti-roll bars, etc. First I took it to my friendly local shop and we spent a few hours with the scales. The driver's side front wheel was 110 lb over the right, and the cross- weights were off by almost that much. Adjusting the coil-overs and shimming the transverse rear spring on one side got the front in balance and the back within 40 lb (with my butt just in front of the rear axle, I'm surprised it's that close!). The handling difference was dramatic and amazing, especially since most courses are clockwise and all the excess weight was on the outside front. The car is now balanced with mild oversteer easily induced in most circumstances. I am now a big advocate of checking this (and of course the alignment) before you start spending money on parts. From SpiwakD at aol.com Sun Sep 26 18:35:47 2010 From: SpiwakD at aol.com (SpiwakD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Message-ID: How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Sep 26 19:31:34 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:31:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100927013053.9176E187645@autox.team.net> You could shim the front spring with the low corner weight, or the one diagonal from the rear with low weight. - Tony At 07:35 PM 9/26/2010, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote: >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sun Sep 26 21:20:47 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 21:20:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100927013053.9176E187645@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20100927032018.EF77718764B@autox.team.net> I hope to have a solution for that by next spring with adjustable spring perches. I have the IRS frame figured out, now I just need to go stare at the live axle frame for a while. Jim G. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 7:32 PM To: SpiwakD at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Corner weights You could shim the front spring with the low corner weight, or the one diagonal from the rear with low weight. - Tony At 07:35 PM 9/26/2010, SpiwakD at aol.com wrote: >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From mpendy at dishmail.net Sun Sep 26 21:43:30 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:43:30 -0700 Subject: [Fot] cracked manifold Message-ID: <9FA758862CC14F9EBDCE50E1EFB66105@Pendys> List, got some good input as usual from many. Thanks Dave H. for the great pics. Have time between now and the upcomeing Double header to put the ideas to work. Thanks listers.......Mark Pendy TR4 #65 From sm1ski at dslextreme.com Mon Sep 27 09:38:56 2010 From: sm1ski at dslextreme.com (sm1ski @dslextreme.com) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:38:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Sargis Wins HP Championship in his (other) Spitfire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: does anybody have pictures of the Sargis 1500 spit? My computer screen is kinda small. mike kowalski 1500 FP spit (in baskets) Raton, NM On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 2:44 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > Congratulations to Steve Sargis - again > > http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=4012. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com From SeaCubeCo at aol.com Mon Sep 27 15:52:18 2010 From: SeaCubeCo at aol.com (christopher bock) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:52:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] [FOT] Robert Dardano Message-ID: <666D8145-5060-48ED-9456-9155B723D164@aol.com> Your check has arrived. Thank you Chris From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Sep 27 17:19:23 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 23:19:23 GMT Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Message-ID: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower A-arms to lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can also move weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to the light rear corner. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: SpiwakD at aol.com To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Corner weights Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at netzero.net ____________________________________________________________ Mortgage Rates Hit 3.25% If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4ca126bde0ae61dd29st01duc From whitedog72 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 27 19:35:37 2010 From: whitedog72 at hotmail.com (f s) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:35:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire Message-ID: I have a DCOE 40 on my 79 spitfire. The engine is 9 to 1 compression. Mild cam, ported and relieved head, balanced, very lite rods, flat top pistons, Electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and a vacum retard distributor. It runs ok.... but does not idle well and seems like it has a miss at mid range rpms. 2500 to 3500 rpms. It also wants to run at 20 degrees before top dead center, I would think it would run better and idle smooth at 1000 rpms. But it does not. I have tried several different jet and air correctors and tried several timing settings. Does anyone have experience with DCOE 40 on warmed over Spitfire 1500 engines. Thanks Andy From andre at gt6.ca Mon Sep 27 19:39:52 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 21:39:52 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Mont Tremblant Race Weekend Message-ID: The VARAC drivers we're in good form this past weekend at Circuit Mont Tremblant in Quebec Canada. http://www.lecircuit.com/index.cfm?lang=en Myself this was my 2nd race weekend of the year and I was having a blast learning the track and improve my skill set. Race #2 Sunday Morning. http://vimeo.com/15331539 Race #3 Sunday Afternoon. http://vimeo.com/15331903 Hope you enjoy the clips. Cheers. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 27 19:42:07 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 18:42:07 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100928014207.PEWU23084.fed1rmmtao103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo02.cox.net> It might have something to do with the uneven runner lengths that are mandatory with running a single DCOE on any Spitfire engine that has an 8-port head. At idle you can have one of two things: 1: the inside two cylinders running rich compared to the outside two 2. The outside two cylinders running lean compared to the inside two Neither of those options are particularly good. Two DCOEs will have a much more balanced runner arrangement since you have 4 barrels going into 4 inlets on the head. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of f s Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 6:36 PM To: triumph friends Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire I have a DCOE 40 on my 79 spitfire. The engine is 9 to 1 compression. Mild cam, ported and relieved head, balanced, very lite rods, flat top pistons, Electric fuel pump, electronic ignition and a vacum retard distributor. It runs ok.... but does not idle well and seems like it has a miss at mid range rpms. 2500 to 3500 rpms. It also wants to run at 20 degrees before top dead center, I would think it would run better and idle smooth at 1000 rpms. But it does not. I have tried several different jet and air correctors and tried several timing settings. Does anyone have experience with DCOE 40 on warmed over Spitfire 1500 engines. Thanks Andy _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Sep 27 23:33:29 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 00:33:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> References: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> Also, we can use shims between the rear axle and the spring as Kas described for the original cars. - Tony At 06:19 PM 9/27/2010, Joe Boruch wrote: >Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower A-arms to >lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can also move >weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to the light >rear corner. Joe(B) > >---------- Original Message ---------- >From: SpiwakD at aol.com >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Corner weights >Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT > >How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net From s.janzen at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 07:03:10 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:03:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Corner weights In-Reply-To: <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> References: <20100927.191923.11603.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com> <20100928053301.15EB118764D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I shimmed one side of the transverse leaf spring on the GT6 where it bolts on top of the differential. Used cut-down stainless steel backing shims from disc brakes. Worked great and relatively painless to do. Shimming the front coil springs will be a bit more trouble, but the results were well worth the effort on my car. On Sep 28, 2010, at 1:33 AM, Tony Drews wrote: Also, we can use shims between the rear axle and the spring as Kas described for the original cars. - Tony At 06:19 PM 9/27/2010, Joe Boruch wrote: > Dave, You could put shims between the front spring pan and the lower > A-arms to > lower the front corner of the diagonal that is too heavy. You can > also move > weight around in the car. For example. place the battery closer to > the light > rear corner. Joe(B) > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: SpiwakD at aol.com > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Corner weights > Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 20:35:47 EDT > > How can we adjust corner weights without having coil springs? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/s.janzen at comcast.net From jason at multivintage.com Tue Sep 28 09:52:30 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (Jason Ostrowski) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:52:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Mont Tremblant Race Weekend In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great footage, Nice job. What an awesome track. I love race tracks in the autumn glow. Way to leave that GT6 in the dust. Thanks for the footage. Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing GT6 On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:39 PM, Andre Rousseau wrote: > The VARAC drivers we're in good form this past weekend at Circuit Mont > Tremblant in Quebec Canada. > > http://www.lecircuit.com/index.cfm?lang=en > > Myself this was my 2nd race weekend of the year and I was having a > blast learning the track and improve my skill set. > > Race #2 Sunday Morning. > http://vimeo.com/15331539 > > Race #3 Sunday Afternoon. > http://vimeo.com/15331903 > > Hope you enjoy the clips. > > Cheers. > > A. > > -- > Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca > http://twitter.com/andrerousseau - http://andrerousseau.wordpress.com/ > '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ > #515 FIAT 124 Spider - http://www.124racer.com/ > Ottawa, ON, Canada > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jason at multivintage.com From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 10:45:43 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 09:45:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results Message-ID: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have seen others reporting on their Triumph race weekends, so as team manager for RiffRAF Racing (ChumpCar World Series, '75 TR6), I will also. To put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the following: * distributor * alternator (twice) * fan belt * cap and wires (twice) * rotor button (twice) * front carb jet and reset float * fuel pump * exhaust system central mount On the bright side, we did get to race at Sebring, and would have been somewhat competitive had we been able to keep the car running. So much for thinking we had it prepped adequately. Next race we will do better. MyLaps results here: http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=599902 Pictures of event (pretty easy to find us, we're the only Triumph, look for the camo #0) here: http://www.mylaps.com/results/showevent.jsp?id=599902 (pics 42-51, 216-217, 247---217 is really cool!) Finished 24th out of 34 cars, but were one of only 15 that took the checkered flag. As a side note...what is the group's opinion on electric fuel pumps vs. mechanical in racing applications. Some on our team are concerned about electric pump reliability while others don't feel the mechanical pump is capable of sustained high RPM operation for hours at a time (I personally witnessed fuel boiling (!) in the mechanical fuel pump we are using and we melted the nylon filter screen in the aftermarket mechanical pump we had). Interested in the group's thoughts. Thanks, Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 28 10:56:37 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:56:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results In-Reply-To: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > To > put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag > fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the > following: > * distributor > * alternator (twice) > * fan belt > * cap and wires > (twice) > * rotor button (twice) > * front carb jet and reset float > * fuel pump > * exhaust system central mount Too bad the weekend was frustrating, but at least you were running at the end. My question is: Does the cost of the parts you replace at the track count against the amount you spend on the car? Or are these parts considered "free"? From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 11:12:14 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:12:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results In-Reply-To: References: <347671.60263.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <848110.77656.qm@web52507.mail.re2.yahoo.com> As long as we substitute used, stock parts, they are free. Fan belts and other "consumables" are OK new. We have some leeway as we're considerably slower in a straight line than most cars on the course. If we were in danger of winning something, we'd be looked at a lot closer... :-) ________________________________ From: John Herrera To: tr6driver at yahoo.com; Friends of Triumph Sent: Tue, September 28, 2010 12:56:37 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] Sebring race weekend results > To > put it mildly, it was a frustrating weekend. By the time the checkered flag > fell at 9 pm Saturday after 11-1/2 hours, we had replaced and/or rebuilt the > following: > * distributor > * alternator (twice) > * fan belt > * cap and wires > (twice) > * rotor button (twice) > * front carb jet and reset float > * fuel pump > * exhaust system central mount Too bad the weekend was frustrating, but at least you were running at the end. My question is: Does the cost of the parts you replace at the track count against the amount you spend on the car? Or are these parts considered "free"? From jsnook at wcnet.org Tue Sep 28 11:24:14 2010 From: jsnook at wcnet.org (Jeff Snook) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:24:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Message-ID: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Hey all, I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. Thanks, Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com From budscars at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 11:35:01 2010 From: budscars at comcast.net (RACER BUD) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:35:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race References: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Message-ID: <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. Racer Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Snook" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > Hey all, > > I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine > tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any > FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. > > Thanks, > > Jeff Snook > http://www.snooksdreamcars.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Sep 28 12:05:25 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:05:25 -0600 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race In-Reply-To: <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> References: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org>, <97B2D8BAAE094F2AA27B34DCA8E603F6@Bud> Message-ID: The Renault powered Bunce Buck (Hey, I'm on the list) will be there racing in the hmod Puckett Cup race. I start the trek from New Mexico tomorrow AM....................Cheers Henry Morrison (TR4, TR6, TR7) > From: budscars at comcast.net > To: jsnook at wcnet.org; fot at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 10:35:01 -0700 > Subject: Re: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually > pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. > Racer Bud > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Snook" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM > Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > > > Hey all, > > > > I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine > > tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any > > FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Jeff Snook > > http://www.snooksdreamcars.com > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dos_gusanos at msn.com From tr6driver at yahoo.com Tue Sep 28 13:59:43 2010 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 12:59:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Looking for Euro differential for IRS car... Message-ID: <515928.10171.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Or at least a taller rear end ratio. Lacey is just way too slow...we need something with more top end than the standard 3.7:1 fitted to carbed cars. For example, by the time we got to the main straight at Roebling we were already at our rev limit. An overdrive would put us way over the $500 value limit. The 3.45:1 from PI cars would be great...but...finding one on this side of the pond? So...any suggestions? Before anyone suggests taller tires, we're running 205/50-15's Falkens on stock rims...getting the car as low as possible for handling purposes and to remain within cost rules. Thanks! Jamie Palmer RiffRAF Racing #0 1975 TR6 ChumpCar From horizonracing at msn.com Tue Sep 28 14:21:24 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony & Annie Garmey) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 13:21:24 -0700 Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Message-ID: Jeff, we'll have bill harts devin tr along with a 356 , mgb & a can am mclaren. Look forward to seeing you :) RACER BUD wrote: >Hi Jeff....I'll be racing my dark blue Spitfire #21 in group A...I usually >pit just behind the grandstands...Hope to meet you.. >Racer Bud >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jeff Snook" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24 AM >Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race > > >> Hey all, >> >> I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine >> tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any >> FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jeff Snook >> http://www.snooksdreamcars.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/budscars at comcast.net >_______________________________________________ >fot at autox.team.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/horizonracing at msn.com From vintage.racer at comcast.net Tue Sep 28 14:35:51 2010 From: vintage.racer at comcast.net (vintage.racer at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 20:35:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race In-Reply-To: <007601cb5f31$f960fbb0$ec22f310$@org> Message-ID: <5740914.1965798.1285706151517.JavaMail.root@sz0063a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hi Jeff: Look for #67, red TR4 "The Flying Brick" in action at Infineon this weekend. Look forward to seeing you. Gary Horstkorta ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Snook" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 10:24:14 AM Subject: [Fot] CSRG Infineon Race Hey all, I'm going to be in Sonoma this weekend doing a little biking and wine tasting. Just noticed the CSRG vintage race going on at Infineon. Any FOTers racing there this weekend? Think I'll plan a visit to the track. Thanks, Jeff Snook http://www.snooksdreamcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintage.racer at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 28 21:34:40 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 21:34:40 -0600 Subject: [Fot] DCOE questions for Spitfire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4CA2B3D0.4030708@bradakis.com> What size chokes are you using? You might get some improvement in the idle to midrange using the next size smaller, increasing the intake charge velocity. mjb. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Sep 30 11:34:04 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:34:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Message-ID: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander From riverside at southslope.net Thu Sep 30 13:39:07 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 14:39:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Any advantage to flipping them upside down?? art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:34 PM Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 > Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. > > any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components > > or > > machine work we can do > > looking for the latest information as it is stock. > > default is to replace with stock components. > > thanks! > > joe alexander > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Thu Sep 30 15:42:08 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 07:42:08 +1000 Subject: [Fot] re question on lower a-arm/trunnion Message-ID: I have had no end of problems with reproduction trunnions supplied by various firms. it seems they are all made in the same Indian or Chinese back-yard and come via the UK wholesalers. They have a distinctive polished look to them, suggesting they are not a good bronze, but rather brass. The casting is very poor, the oiling slot is not correctly made, the cap that stops the oil dripping out is not fitted correctly (so it leaks), and worst of all, the thread is so sloppy, they are worse than 30 year old Triumph ones. If someone has a source of genuine or quality left hand ones, pls let me know Terry O'Beirne Australia From adcronin at ameritech.net Thu Sep 30 16:15:45 2010 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (Dan Cronin) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 18:15:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 In-Reply-To: <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> <003e01cb60d7$2600e8a0$0301a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Message-ID: <5D959673-FBDF-40A4-ADAB-061F4220E3D0@ameritech.net> The advantage to flipping the lower a-arms is to lower the front of the car about 1/2". Dan C On Sep 30, 2010, at 3:39 PM, riverside wrote: > Any advantage to flipping them upside down?? > > art de armond > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:34 PM > Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 > > >> Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. >> >> any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components >> >> or >> >> machine work we can do >> >> looking for the latest information as it is stock. >> >> default is to replace with stock components. >> >> thanks! >> >> joe alexander >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/riverside at southslope.net > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin at ameritech.net From ablake2 at austin.rr.com Thu Sep 30 16:42:43 2010 From: ablake2 at austin.rr.com (Greg & Alison Blake) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:42:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Video question Message-ID: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg From tpettenati at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 17:41:16 2010 From: tpettenati at yahoo.com (Tim Pettenati) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:41:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> References: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Message-ID: <470995.60205.qm@web180306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Greg, I haven't tried the GoPro HD, just the standard definition. While I liked the view with the wide angle lens, the picture was very washed out by the sun. So when I had a chance to try the standard lens and the wide angle back to back, I preferred the standard lens. I ended up buying the ContourHD over the GoPro. The jury is still out on if this was the best choice. I've had a few issues with the ContourHD. It froze during the last race I recorded. I'm still trying to figure that one out. It may be vibration causing a momentary disconnect on the internal battery. The sound isn't that great with a lot of wind noise. There are a few fixes for the noise issues, such as adding foam over the mic, or adding an external mic. You wouldn't have that problem in a closed car, or one with a full windshield. IOPORT racing has a good comparison of the GoPro / ChaseCam / ContourHD. http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=C To see a ContourHD video from our last race. http://contour.com/stories/111807 Cheers, Tim Pettenati ________________________________ From: Greg & Alison Blake To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, September 30, 2010 3:42:43 PM Subject: [Fot] Video question Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tpettenati at yahoo.com From jaboruch at netzero.net Thu Sep 30 18:53:01 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 00:53:01 GMT Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Message-ID: <20100930.205301.8821.0@webmail03.dca.untd.com> Often the used ones have worn thru the bushings and into the a-arm at the inner end. They then need to be machined round. I use solid bushings in my a-arms. Often the bushings need to be machined to fit the a-arm. You can make and fit offset bushings if you want to gain some camber by making the lower a-arms effectively a little longer. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:34:04 -0400 Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander ____________________________________________________________ Moms Asked to Return to School Grant Funding May Be Available to Those That Qualify. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4ca5314ec7d5d7c993st06duc From malaboge at aol.com Thu Sep 30 19:22:12 2010 From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:22:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 In-Reply-To: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD2EDCD003A416-D08-1809@webmail-m097.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CD2F1E355EE963-11A4-69C0@webmail-m101.sysops.aol.com> Joe- A few rambling thoughts... 1. If you still have the old style trunions (the ones with the pin firmly installed ala TR3) chuck it. Can't recall 'xactely when TR went to the later style but a 63 may still have that setup. Use the late TR4A/6 setup with the additional castor with the TR4a style upper ball joint. 2. If you have the above setup, remove the bushings from the outer ends of the a arms and just use the TR4A/6 plastic bushes. With this you can use a larger pivot bolt (5/8" I think). 3. Inner lower a-arm bushes can be had in many different types (delrin, poly whatevers) from many suppliers. Rotating those arms will give a bit of a drop in stance. 4. Again ifits an early style with the two bolt end plates on the fulcrum pin, reweld that whole area. You can also attach some "wrap around" supports just inside of those plates and weld them to the frame...careful on the outer side of the frame so that you don't impinge on the movement of the spring pan. So many mods...so few cars left... Nick in Nor Cal ps I can hardly speak without the use of many gestures...so if this doesn't make any sense, lemme no and I'll try to unobfuscate...is that a word? -----Original Message----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 10:34 am Subject: [Fot] question on lower a-arm/trunnion 1963 TR4 Sean is rebuilding lower end of front suspension. any recommendations on aftermarket replacement components or machine work we can do looking for the latest information as it is stock. default is to replace with stock components. thanks! joe alexander ______________________________________________ ot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/malaboge at aol.com From dave at microworks.net Thu Sep 30 21:00:30 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:00:30 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <5A0A24D914EB45C6BDB72E10A9E60723@EnigmaGroup.local> References: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> <5A0A24D914EB45C6BDB72E10A9E60723@EnigmaGroup.local> Message-ID: <3DB6C5328308AC47A37CAFE910D3CECF0352C0@enigma.EnigmaGroup.local> We have used the GoPro Standard for years. Most of the guys we run karts with have upgraded to the wide angle HD. No issues we've seen with "washed out" video and we're running in the bright Arizona Sunshine. Wind noise is also not an issue with the GoPro Here are some good examples with the HD camera mounted on the chin of his helmet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwvBsSDsF88 This one includes him crashing and flipping the kart. Note that he is driving right at the setting sun to see how the video is still not washed out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Sep 30 22:25:59 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 22:25:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Video question In-Reply-To: <001301cb60f0$cbc87280$63595780$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20101001042536.15BCA187678@autox.team.net> Greg The video I posted last week was done with a go pro. They are a bit power hungry requiring a new set of lithium batteries every 40 -50 minutes. They use standard SD cards. It cut off for some reason with one or two laps to go in the Kastner Cup. I've had pretty good luck overall but the sound isn't very good if the camera is in the wind. I'm going with the chase cam next year because I already have the traqmate. I have a second HD camcorder I use sometimes to the rear and sometimes on my instruments. The sound is poor on that one too even with baffling over the mic. I don't have a port for a remote mic which would solve that problem. Here's the link again, you can judge the video & sound quality for yourself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2NdtD38v-8 Jim G -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg & Alison Blake Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:43 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Video question Alison has a question for those of you using video cameras. She wants to get me a video camera that we can swap between my 3 and dad's 4. We have been looking at the GoPro cameras. Questions: What are the advantages of going with the latest $300 hi-def version over the $149 standard definition? Do you have to buy GoPro's SD cards or can you buy them at your favorite tech store? Would also like opinions regarding wide (170 degree) vs standard lens. Thanks in advance. Greg _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Sep 30 01:28:54 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 03:28:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive part VIII Message-ID: Hi, Shot some in-car last Sunday. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toz07a_2RVI enjoy! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------