[Fot] Pressurizing the oilins system

[Greg Solow]

Using a tank to fill the oil passages before starting a fresh engine is 
always a good thing. What we do is, 1. During assembly of the engine, as 
each rod is installed, the rod with its bearing half is pulled up against 
the crank, then using a pump oil can with an engine assembly mixture of 40 
or 50 sae racing oil and Molybdenum di Sulfide oil additive (like Mr. Moly) 
we pump the oil passages in the crankshaft full of oil, then install the 
bearing cap and torque into place. Fill the oil filter canister or oil 
filter with oil before installing it on the engine. leave the spark plugs 
out. Fill the engine sump to the full mark, then crank the engine until you 
see 40 or 50 psi of oil pressure on the gauge. In our experience, this 
should take about one or two minutes of cranking. You will hear the engine 
slow down slightly when all of the passageways fill and oil pressure is 
generated on the gauge. Then install the spark plugs, make sure the valves 
are properly adjusted and the timing is set correctly. If everything is 
right, with fuel and spark, the engine should fire right up. Immediately 
bring the idle up the 2,000 to 2,200 rpm and keep it there for 15 to 20 
minutes.    DO NOT REV OR "BLIP" THE ENGINE UP ABOVE 2,500 RPM DURING THIS 
INITIAL CAM BREAK IN PERIOD. raising the surface speed of the lifters on the 
cam during this initial break in period can cause terminal damage to the cam 
and lifters.
                            Using this procedure, we have never had any oil 
starvation damage to any engines we have ever done. Cranking the engine over 
to get oil pressure, with the spark plugs removed, and the oil passages of 
the crankshaft previously filled with oil puts no stress on any of the 
bearings.  There is heavy rubbing of the lifters on the cam and the rocker 
assembly (which should also have been pumped full of oil during engine 
assembly) and the valve stem tips to the rocker arms.  But that is what 
assembly lube paste is for..We use Moly (grey colored) assembly lube paste. 
Redline also makes a good assembly lube paste. As far as I am concerned, 
this is only for steel or iron to steel or iron surfaces, never to be used 
where there are "bearings" involved.
                                                                             
                                Greg Solow