From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Mon Feb 1 03:16:41 2010 From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 21:16:41 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1500 Brake Cap Message-ID: I am hoping someone on the list will know where to purchase a Spitfire 1500, Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap? This is the Cap in need has the small thread. Not the TR6 type large cap. I don't mind if I have to purchase the complete reservoir with cap. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated. Thanks Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR-4 Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Feb 1 03:27:18 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 11:27:18 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Inside In-Reply-To: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> References: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> Message-ID: <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> Good that none of us was born as an combustion engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy_yaAOKjA8&feature=related Cheers Chris From spitfiresuz at 141.com Mon Feb 1 04:31:04 2010 From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler) Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 06:31:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Inside In-Reply-To: <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> References: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> Message-ID: <4B66BB78.40608@141.com> /kaS169: Permission denied From spitfiresuz at 141.com Mon Feb 1 06:45:26 2010 From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (spitfiresuz at 141.com) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 08:45:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Inside Message-ID: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> Awesome video, Chris! And I found this great video on valve float in the "Related Videos" category: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY Susan :) -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From jeff_durant at comcast.net Mon Feb 1 08:44:37 2010 From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (jeff_durant at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 15:44:37 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups Message-ID: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm rebuilding a CR gearbox for my TR6 using a Kastner gearset and realized I used my last factory syncro cups on another CR gearbox build. Who offers the best (closest to factory) syncro cups for the big TR's these days? I've tried Moss cups I'm my brother's TR4A trans rebuild and they were marginal. Anyone tried the TRF or Rimmer's premium ones? Thanks, Jeff D. TR6 #12 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Feb 1 09:18:24 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 11:18:24 EST Subject: [Fot] Towing Message-ID: <78e.7daef18.389858d0@aol.com> Amazingly Kas, I was offered that truck Saturday morning for $3000. Honestly! A converted Snap-On truck setup for a motorcycle race team. Has some Cummins Turbodiesel. I will be offering it to a racer at work in a few hours... In a message dated 1/31/2010 6:39:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, kaskas at cox.net writes: So enough of this. You need a 400 HP truck that has sleeping for five, and cooking, and gets 23 mpg, while going uphill with the AC blooming full chat and brakes that can stop a locomotive. For this we will pay about $3000. Okay now that is settled, lets talk about cars.. -- From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Mon Feb 1 17:50:12 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 19:50:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] search "spec race fords fly" at Utube Message-ID: I just found this on U tube This is another view of getting run over at Summit point last labor day rob From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Feb 1 19:00:55 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 21:00:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Searching for Steve Balfor Message-ID: <4B678757.8030803@cfl.rr.com> Sorry to bomb the list but would Steve Balfor please contact me off list. I have some Sebring 1957 TR3 questions. thxx, Bob From ofbracing at nefcom.net Tue Feb 2 10:06:16 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Feb 2 11:29:52 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 13:29:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> References: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: Don, I found a 200 watt magnetic block heater at a Bumper to Bumper parts store about a year ago. Just stick it to the side of the block under the intake and plug it in. Brad On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 12:06 PM, ofbracing wrote: > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Feb 2 11:30:55 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 13:30:55 EST Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX - KASTNER CUP Message-ID: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> FOT, We have passed 35 drivers that have have registered an intent to run the KASTNER CUP. But I still have not heard from some of the usual suspects. I will publish the list at the end of the week and submit the list to Classic Motorsports. In the past they have published the names of the drivers along with the latest news on this event. Of special note, it appears that we can expect SCCA CHAMPION SAM HALKIAS to bring FOUR TR6s with the SCCA Champ Car to be put on display. Perhaps it is a candidate for Honorary Pace Car.....how cool would that be? THIS LOOKS LIKE THE YEAR OF THE TR6...........as it should be. Two of the Three Sebring TR4s prepared by Kas Kastner will be there...... And more..... Let me hear from you so I can get this list to Bill Brinke and Gary Fuqua (ORGANIZERS) and get on to something else. If you are a vendor, take a look at the proposal for vendors. $100 for a 10 x 20. Regards, Joe Alexander From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Feb 2 09:15:29 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 10:15:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Jeff, I don't see any other responses, so I'll give it a shot. Sam Clark and I noted this problem in our transmission rebuild articles at vtr.com. This is a case where new is not always better. I measure them first and reuse them if they are not worn out. If you have to replace them, Victoria British seems to have the worst ones. The ones from the other dealers are usable, but worse than the originals. This is based on experience from a few years back. I have not tried the premium ones. They must be relatively new. I have bought NOS sychro rings on ebay. Larry jeff_durant at comcast.net wrote: > I'm rebuilding a CR gearbox for my TR6 using a Kastner gearset and realized I used my last factory syncro cups on another CR gearbox build. Who offers the best (closest to factory) syncro cups for the big TR's these days? I've tried Moss cups I'm my brother's TR4A trans rebuild and they were marginal. Anyone tried the TRF or Rimmer's premium ones? > Thanks, > Jeff D. > TR6 #12 > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as cartravel at pobox.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 2 12:19:19 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 12:19:19 -0700 Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX - KASTNER CUP In-Reply-To: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> References: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> Message-ID: <4B687AB7.4020509@bradakis.com> After the disappointment of last year when illness derailed my Portland plans I really don't want to miss this one! mjb. From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 2 12:41:59 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 14:41:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Message-ID: Hi, Here's another data point - I think Hardy Prentiss mentioned on this list that re-using the old ones is a reasonable practice. You can recondition them as long as the cones are are not badly worn. You just work the flat face 'till you get your dimensions. At least that's what I've done more than a few times. The new pieces that I got from TRF in the last 5 or so years seem to be reasonable quality. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Feb 2 13:50:25 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:50:25 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Inside Valve Bounce In-Reply-To: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <4B689011.2090607@pobox.com> That's a neat video. I'll add that link to my website. However, there is more to valve bounce than just spring pressure. The profile of the camshaft also has a lot to do it. Here are some other interesting videos. http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/high_speed_video/#Mechanisms Larry spitfiresuz at 141.com wrote: > Awesome video, Chris! And I found this great video on valve float in the > "Related Videos" category: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY > > > Susan :) From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Feb 2 16:52:18 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 18:52:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Message-ID: <6227878829BB4F9E94DDA0F81C614EEA@userb38463fba5> Call Quantum Mechanics and get them from him. Good quality parts from a guy who knows good from bad. NIL and all that stuff. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Young" To: Cc: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups > Jeff, > I don't see any other responses, so I'll give it a shot. > > Sam Clark and I noted this problem in our transmission rebuild articles > at vtr.com. This is a case where new is not always better. I measure > them first and reuse them if they are not worn out. If you have to > replace them, Victoria British seems to have the worst ones. The ones > from the other dealers are usable, but worse than the originals. This is > based on experience from a few years back. I have not tried the premium > ones. They must be relatively new. I have bought NOS sychro rings on > ebay. > Larry From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Feb 2 17:09:41 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 00:09:41 GMT Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil heater that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they may not be available. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From VANDECARR at aol.com Tue Feb 2 18:47:37 2010 From: VANDECARR at aol.com (VANDECARR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 20:47:37 EST Subject: [Fot] light weight batteries Message-ID: I use a PC625 - Odyssey Battery. It's a dry cell design and can be mounted vertical or horizontal. Small weighs under 7 lbs. and when it was in my TR it would easily crank over the V8 that was in it. I now have it in my formula car and have no problems with it for 3 years. web site http://www.odysseybatteries.net Dean VanDeCarr From robertten1 at aol.com Tue Feb 2 20:42:09 2010 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 22:42:09 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or not. Just a thought, Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Joe Boruch To: ofbracing at nefcom.net Cc: FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil heater that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they may not be available. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From kaskas at cox.net Tue Feb 2 21:37:03 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 20:37:03 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Not that this is possible now, but when I was a telegrapher for the Union Pacific Railroad,( may they go in peace), I put a signal lantern (kerosene) next to the engine and a blanket over the whole engine, next morning it was just fine in sub Zero Wyoming weather, and started right up.. -- Never be beaten by equipment From tr4racing at googlemail.com Wed Feb 3 02:59:04 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:59:04 +0100 Subject: [Fot] The truth In-Reply-To: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> References: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Message-ID: <001201caa4b7$87019a00$9504ce00$@com> http://en.tackfilm.se/?id=1265186032853RA55&q=low Have fun. Chris From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Feb 3 03:28:49 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 05:28:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: My dad had one of those in a car when I was a kid. Apparently it didn't regulate to well and it got overly hot, ruined the oil which subsequently ruined the engine. He talked about that thing for years after wards. I'm assuming if they sell them now they are probably a little better regulated. Brad On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:42 PM, wrote: > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From goodparts at verizon.net Wed Feb 3 04:23:28 2010 From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 06:23:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] carb question Message-ID: <003001caa4c3$52b39800$6402a8c0@richardyap2xwy> Can anyone answer this question from one of my customers? Why did they lengthen the dashpot height on the Stromberg 175CD carb,after the TR4 ? Thanks, Richard Good Good Parts From rjl6n at cstone.net Wed Feb 3 04:52:21 2010 From: rjl6n at cstone.net (rjl6n at cstone.net) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 06:52:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> References: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Message-ID: I've done the same thing with a 100 watt trouble light, and it was enough to keep the engine warm enough to start on a ski trip to Quebec (-35 degrees F). John On Tue, February 2, 2010 11:37 pm, Kas Kastner wrote: > Not that this is possible now, but when I was a telegrapher for the Union > Pacific Railroad,( may they go in peace), I put a signal lantern > (kerosene) next to the engine and a blanket over the whole engine, next > morning it was just fine in sub Zero Wyoming weather, and started right > up.. > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rjl at gt-classics.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jerrybarr at charter.net Wed Feb 3 07:25:05 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 08:25:05 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I had one and it did not do much in the way of heating the oil. On Feb 2, 2010, at 9:42 PM, robertten1 at aol.com wrote: > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Wed Feb 3 08:21:09 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 07:21:09 -0800 Subject: [Fot] engine heater Message-ID: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. ~Steve From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Feb 3 10:42:36 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 09:42:36 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B69B58C.7040809@greenheart.com> I don't know what you guys are talking about. --Justin Los Angeles, CA ;-) From ofbracing at nefcom.net Wed Feb 3 10:55:55 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:55:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> I've about decided to try a small catalytic heater behind the grill to blow hot air through the radiator and oil cooler, which should also heat the engine compartment. My grill is attached by 2 screws and 2 tie wraps so it's easy to remove and replace. It rarely gets below freezing where we race so the main issue is to make it easier to start in the mornings, but it's better to be safe than sorry, especially without antifreeze. Thanks, Don -----Original Message----- Steven Belfer If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. From igofaster at att.net Wed Feb 3 11:33:25 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:33:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> References: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Steve & FoT... we are required to run straight water, I too have been concerned about our little Triumph in the paddock when the temp's are freezing..been told we would need a long hard freeze overnight to harm the cars... I ain't buying it. Being in the boat business 10 years ago I've seen cast iron blocks freeze in boats when the temp hovered around 27-30 degrees in one night. Problem is an aluminum radiator and attaching a magnet to it... I kinda like the idea of the little magnet block heater... I'm my garage at home, I'll cover the engine bay with a thick moving blanket and place one of the long space heaters under the front of the car... other than that???? Bobby Whitehead 1970GT6 CVAR DP GP7 ________________________________ From: Steven Belfer To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010 9:21:09 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] engine heater If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. ~Steve _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as igofaster at att.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team..net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 3 12:48:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 11:48:40 -0800 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <07533F9B5A14421BA3DC8ED141B9931B@jdnet.deere.com> > other than that???? If you are only worried about temps a few degrees below freezing, say down to 20F, then just sticking a 100 watt trouble light under the closed hood actually works pretty good. Just don't forget to remove it before starting the engine! Years ago we had a car that didn't like to start when it was below freezing. Dad added a 110v heater that teed into the regular heater lines, and plugged it into the porch light. He'd flip the light on before he got dressed, and by the time he'd finished his coffee, that old Chevy would start right up. Even blew moderately warm air from the heater (compared to outdoors anyway). -- Randall From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Wed Feb 3 14:56:12 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Terry and Cindy) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 07:56:12 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100203215614.PNRC1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> I have found 2 problems with the copies that abound. Firstly, the taper angle is wrongly cut. This can be detected by putting some bearing blue on the syncro ring then pressing it onto the gear and rotating it. A mis-match is obvious. The second problem is the thickness. Once the taper angle is proven to be correct, the back clearance between the dog teeth and the mating face on the gear is down as low as O.010". This is basically worn out. Thankfully, we still have a few new STANPART ones left here. Terry O'Beirne, Australia From niteseeker at mac.com Wed Feb 3 15:52:35 2010 From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 16:52:35 -0600 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> References: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: <57B15475-BF16-419F-92E2-73F0A9195D5C@mac.com> Can always do what my grandfather did with his model T. Place a pan of hot coals under the engine. From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Wed Feb 3 16:11:50 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 18:11:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater References: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: <005001caa526$45fa1cc0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> I used to have a Dodge Coronet wagon that I used for various ski trips. Dodge had an option to heat the engine block that consisted of knocking out a soft plug and installing a replacement that had a heater element in it. Plug it into 110v and leave overnight; worked great; kept the coolant warm. Only drawback was that you had to have the right sized soft plug. The in-line heater hose setup works ok too. The dipstick on my Dodge van is about 4 feet long so a dipstick heater probably wouldn't reach the oil level! The trouble light under the hood is as cheap and easy as anything. This could make for a good joke for certain Eastern European types (Oscar Koveleski?) Make sure it's a 100 watt bulb and not flourescent! Couldn't resist. Bill----- Original Message ----- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 12:06 PM Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Wed Feb 3 17:26:16 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 19:26:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well > or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil > pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening > they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Wed Feb 3 19:59:51 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 02:59:51 GMT Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <20100203.215951.16856.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> They have block heaters and if you keep them plugged in constantly they will jack up your electric bill. I made that mistake. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> To: , Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 19:26:16 -0500 diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well > or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil > pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening > they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=NGuZH7Dzth3CpPiUVncqIwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA= From tdwark at mpinet.net Wed Feb 3 21:20:48 2010 From: tdwark at mpinet.net (tdwark at mpinet.net) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 23:20:48 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <18842072.1265257248498.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Rob All vehicles, that heaters are installed are called Block heaters, that heat the coolant that then transfers heat to the rest of the engine.....that includes the oil and everything else...... This has nothing to do with some diesel engines that require glow plugs to start.....It makes starting them much easier. Some people choose to install block heaters on Gas engines in the colder areas of the country, for the same reason there installed on diesel engines, Big Trucks, etc.......Pass this along to the rest of the FOT. btw, for you guy's that want to keep your race car engines warm, over night.......buy a heating pad, blanket or 150 watt bulb under the hood in a reflector.........this will do it....... Regards Tom Wark -----Original Message----- >From: Rob <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> >Sent: Feb 3, 2010 7:26 PM >To: fot at autox.team.net, robertten1 at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > >diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I >am not sure what they heat up. rob >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM >Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > >> I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that >> replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well >> or >> not. >> >> Just a thought, >> Bob T >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Joe Boruch >> To: ofbracing at nefcom.net >> Cc: FOT at autox.team.net >> Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater >> >> >> A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil >> pan. >> Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil >> heater >> that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening >> they >> may not be available. Joe >> >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: "ofbracing" >> To: "FOT" >> Subject: [Fot] Engine heater >> Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 >> >> As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd >> like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at >> the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated >> trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What >> have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> Diet Help >> Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. >> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U >> 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tdwark at mpinet.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From WEmery7451 at aol.com Wed Feb 3 21:35:06 2010 From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 23:35:06 EST Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <204e4.7c21e4ac.389ba87a@aol.com> In a message dated 2/3/10 6:00:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, 19to1tr6 at comcast.net writes: << Diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. >> My boy's TR-7 sits outside all winter with nothing more than water and water wetter in the radiator, and a trouble light under the hood. I told him several times that that light may not keep his radiator and block from freezing, especially if the bulb burns out. It does get cold in the mountains of north central Pennsylvania. If you can find an older heating pad without a timer on it, you could place it on the top of the engine and plug it in. I use three of them to warm small tents for outdoor cats. An electric blanket should also work. From mark at bradakis.com Wed Feb 3 22:02:13 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 22:02:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff Message-ID: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Feb 3 22:03:15 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 21:03:15 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Justin: Race car for sale in CA Message-ID: <4B6A5513.5050108@greenheart.com> Just passing this along.... --Justin http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/1584659449.html From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 4 00:51:34 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 00:51:34 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get lost! :) Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 10:02 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Feb 4 01:05:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 01:05:32 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Joe Curry wrote: > Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get > lost! :) > Yes, he is the lucky passenger. Looks like a neat ride. mjb. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 4 04:10:17 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 03:10:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <633208.48218.qm@web80805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That is a special 2 seat U2. Notice the chase vehicle? Pontiac GP. ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 3:05:32 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff Joe Curry wrote: > Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get > lost! :) > Yes, he is the lucky passenger. Looks like a neat ride. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as dmitchel at sbcglobal.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From timmurph at fastbytes.com Thu Feb 4 08:40:18 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 09:40:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000001caa5b0$5b7d5cd0$12781670$@com> Thanks for sharing the video, fantastic! Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 11:02 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From ofbracing at nefcom.net Thu Feb 4 12:14:23 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 14:14:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Road Atlanta event Feb 20-21, 2010 Message-ID: <6756969AE34E4B049772DE49C08D3B62@Dell5100Laptop> The Triumph Ghetto will be at Road Atlanta in two weeks (see VDCA event notice below). If any FOTers are going to be there, come see us. Don -----Original Message----- From: VDCA Race Director [mailto:Grandwazoo at earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 4:36 PM To: donmarshall at nefcom.net Subject: Road Atlanta event Feb 20-21, 2010 Feb 3, 2010 Dear VDCA Members and Friends: In about two weeks, our club will begin its 2010 racing season and it will be anything but ordinary as we are going to Road Atlanta for the first time in our history. That's right, on Feb 20 and 21, VDCA will visit one of the nation's most revered road racing circuits with a two day vintage race meeting. We hope you are planning to join us for this historic event. Some of you have raced Road Atlanta before, others never. Regardless, we need your support. We are a club devoted solely to its members. We offer the best racing value at the best tracks possible. Your entry is our key measure of success. Without you, tracks like Road Atlanta are simply outside our reach. As members of VDCA your loyalty is what makes us different, better, and special. We recognize that you have a choice of racing venues and hosting organizations. We believe that none offer a better mix of period competition and camaraderie, all at the tracks where you want to compete. And to continue this commitment, your participation is needed at VDCA weekends. I want to again personally invite you to come to Road Atlanta for our inaugural event. Entry is easy by going to our website, vintagedrive.com, downloading and completing the entry form, and mailing it to Sandy Jackson this week. We have a great weekend planned including a Mexican Fiesta Social on Saturday night at Dick Barbour Racing hosted by several sponsors that want this weekend to succeed.. See you at Road Atlanta! Thanks for entering! Thanks for supporting VDCA! Ray Morgan Road Atlanta Event Chairman From gasket.works at verizon.net Fri Feb 5 08:50:48 2010 From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST) Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 07:50:48 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Tappets... References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> FYI NO Financial interest... I just purchased a set of the finest looking Tappets for a TR4 I have ever seen. ( Fyi... a few years back I had about ten sets made out of A2 Tool steel) . These are so superior in quality. You could shave of the brilliance of the mirror finish. They are harder than RC 60. In a figure of speech called a "litote" they are not " not inexpensive" but, they look like a deal well worth the effort. Contact Greg Solo's Engine room.831.429.1800 in Santac Cruz. . Mordy M.N.Dunst Gasket Works USA, LLC www.Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 ph 626.628.3777 fx Triple R Munitions, Inc. Class 6 Certified F.F.L. 626.201.9471 GMT -8 Pacific From fubog1 at aol.com Fri Feb 5 11:54:03 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 13:54:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tappets... In-Reply-To: <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com><060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew><4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> Message-ID: <8CC74ABB8A35800-A18-2912@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> Ditto that! I am in the process of fitting a set in an engine right now, VERY impressed with these so far, I expect that they will work well. Thanks to Greg! Glen -----Original Message----- From: MORDY DUNST To: 'Friends of Triumph' Sent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 10:50 am Subject: [Fot] Tappets... FYI NO Financial interest... I just purchased a set of the finest looking Tappets for a TR4 I have ever seen. ( Fyi... a few years back I had about ten sets made out of A2 Tool steel) . These are so superior in quality. You could shave of the brilliance of the mirror finish. They are harder than RC 60. In a figure of speech called a "litote" they are not " not inexpensive" but, they look like a deal well worth the effort. Contact Greg Solo's Engine room.831.429.1800 in Santac Cruz. . Mordy M.N.Dunst Gasket Works USA, LLC www.Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 ph 626.628.3777 fx Triple R Munitions, Inc. Class 6 Certified F.F.L. 626.201.9471 GMT -8 Pacific Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as fubog1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Feb 5 22:29:26 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 23:29:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 Message-ID: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> You car nuts might enjoy this link that my sister-in-law sent me. Traffic in 1906 -- San Francisco's Market Street. Link is at the bottom. You probably have to cut-n-paste. Despite the description below, this was shot from a cable car, not a streetcar. The difference, cable cars are pulled from a below-street-level cable -- see the slot between the tracks. Also the oncoming cars are cable cars -- open front, enclosed back, just like the Powell Street cars of today. Streetcars are longer, completely enclosed, powered by an overhead electrical wire -- a couple of them cross in front of the cable car. That's the spire of the Ferry Building (it's still there today) straight ahead, so the cable car is traveling easterly. (I lived in San Francisco from first grade through high school. No, I didn't live there in 1906!!) --Rocky Entriken This is great, well worth watching. San Francisco Market St 1906. This is fascinating to watch. 7-minute San Francisco street car ride 1906 - No lights, no traffic direction, all at the pace of a horse or bicycle. Thought the young people might not believe what life was like 100 years ago! Even some cars with right hand drive! This fascinating bit of film was shot from the San Francisco Market Street car estimated taken just a few days before the 1906 earthquake. Amazing to see the casual way the early cars just wove in an out of traffic and the pedestrians seemingly taking their lives in their hands as they walked in front of anything on wheels. Notice the heavy goods wagons running on tracks on the right as they get close to the Ferry Building . The wagons appear to have extra large steel wheels with a standard track width. And what about the fat cop with his truncheon ready to deal with any civil disturbances. Wonder what he did during the earthquake. Some comment from a local historian: - This gets identified as 1905 to 1909, but recent research by some transit experts concludes that it was done possibly on Monday, April 16, 1906 or Tuesday, April 17! Yep a day or two before the earthquake that would greatly alter this landscape. The other interesting thing is to watch the traffic and the chances people took when crossing the street. Street accidents were endemic throughout the US as the country changed with the advent of the horseless carriage. The cable cars that are visible were running at a predictable 9.2 MPH. Horses moved slowly on city streets too. But the automobile could reach speeds of 20 MPH! Early autos had the steering wheel on the right then we standardized it to the left. The rules of the road were evolving. Major train crossing had crossing lights, but rural crossing were only marked with a sign and you were responsible for your own safety in crossing the tracks and looking for the train coming. Even signal lights in cities didn't evolve until the 1920s. The cop directing traffic was about the only traffic control in use until then. As life sped up, we devised ways to protect the public, but it evolved slowly and unfortunately a lot of people died on city streets. http://www.flixxy.com/san-francisco-1905-historical-footage.htm From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Feb 6 03:56:03 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:56:03 +0100 Subject: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 In-Reply-To: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> References: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> Message-ID: <000901caa71a$fbb0b290$f31217b0$@com> Surprising that the bicycle rider didn't fall into the slot of the cable car. And the aspect ratio was a little stretched so the slim ancient cars look like a wide F1 race :-) Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rocky Entriken Gesendet: Samstag, 6. Februar 2010 06:29 An: .Wichita Region; .Triumph List; .Team.Net Betreff: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 http://www.flixxy.com/san-francisco-1905-historical-footage.htm Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From igofaster at att.net Sat Feb 6 09:06:33 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:06:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats Message-ID: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? Bobby Whitehead 1971 TR6 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Feb 6 11:36:52 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 13:36:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC75727C64C897-4988-1CAE7@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> I went to Shell Valley and bought their fibreglass seats used in COBRA KITS. I think it was about $100 for the pair. WYOTECH upholstered them very nicely. A local shop could likely replicate mine for $200-300 for the pair. I fabricated some simple brackets, put lightening holes in them and powder coated. Excellent results!!! photobucket.com/ambro But what about the Miata Seats and UNCLE JACK'S (design) Conversion KIT? We are doing another production run of these kits, due in two weeks, btw. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Bobby Whitehead To: FoT Triumph Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2010 10:06 am Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash nd the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost ffective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on he market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a hop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a ittle over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda lasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been recked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a ad time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this orning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice f color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? Bobby Whitehead 971 TR6 970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mike.mehl at yahoo.com Sat Feb 6 12:43:21 2010 From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:43:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question Message-ID: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl From emanteno at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 12:57:37 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 13:57:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <354a1781002061157o3bd292b3jf50fc50800fb7967@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 10:06 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden > dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem > is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the > nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over > $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... > VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We > spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint > last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks > like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new > seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company > building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 > range each... Any ideas FoT? > Now you know why so many TR6's have Miata seats in them. Irv From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 6 17:01:31 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 16:01:31 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Typically, you want it as high as possible, without the engine overheating first. The fan sucks power and fuel, so don't run it unless necessary. Most OEM sensors turn on around 200F or even higher. But it depends on the situation. If you're sitting in a grid or something, you might want to keep the motor cooler for best power on take-off. Randall From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Feb 6 17:03:16 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 19:03:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Bobby I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale for a fairly reasonable cost. I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same stuff. Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we have recovered TR7's and MGB's. The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in a TR. Good Luck Glenn Franco 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Feb 6 17:07:30 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 19:07:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Message-ID: <4B6E0442.4010201@charter.net> Where are you located?? We are in Michigan. We could help Glenn Glenn Franco wrote: > Bobby > I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) > TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act > now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale > for a fairly reasonable cost. > I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit > and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the > British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same > stuff. > Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. > These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you > buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff > to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we > have recovered TR7's and MGB's. > The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look > good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is > mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in > a TR. > Good Luck > Glenn Franco > 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's > > Bobby Whitehead wrote: >> I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the >> wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be >> rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. >> Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, >> foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the >> work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a >> little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a >> complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year >> (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks >> like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for >> new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a >> company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color >> for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? >> >> Bobby Whitehead >> 1971 TR6 >> 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From LimeyV8 at aol.com Sat Feb 6 17:15:00 2010 From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 19:15:00 EST Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats Message-ID: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> last time I bought that stuff, it was A LOT cheaper to order it from Rimmer and pay the shipping - the original type seat covers, foam etc are coming from England anyway Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 2/6/2010 1:01:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, igofaster at att.net writes: Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Feb 6 18:59:47 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 17:59:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <70E27F7BD0DC42F1B9A3AA2AAE1A70D3@Pendys> Mike; different rigs take different settings, my wifes V8 powered TR4 has to come on by 180ish , if i set it at 190 it has a tougher time on a warm day to bring her down.My early mustang (basically same V8 and radiator) has no problem coming on at 190 and dropping, the TR4 racer does not have any fans elec. or mech. at all and even on a very hot day, on track it can't get above 165-170, to big of a radiator. You will have to play with it a little to suit you, found that the Painless Wireing kit works pretty good ............Mark P #65 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 11:43 AM Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > Thanks!!!!! > > Mike Mehl > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Feb 6 20:08:00 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 22:08:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Glenn, The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. Third production run just sold out. Joe A. -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco To: Bobby Whitehead Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2010 6:03 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Bobby I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale for a fairly reasonable cost. I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same stuff. Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we have recovered TR7's and MGB's. The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in a TR. Good Luck Glenn Franco 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:24:32 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:24:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> Do you have a charging system? Put an electric fan on (pull type) and run it all the time. Anytime the car is up to temperature, run it. It's going to be needed on the grid, pace lap, and maybe in a draft. In free air at speed, it's not going to do anything. I ask about a charging system because, I'm not sure of your set up / race length. Without a charging system, I don't know whether your particular set up can afford the draw (it's not a lot) for an entire race. I seem to remember in 2004 at Watkins Glen, when they had a lot of MGs whch led to a slow pace lap, some of those without fans cooked their motors. Ouch. It would be ashame to cook a $10k+ race engine when a $100 fan would have prevented it. And as Babcock and others elsewhere can tell you, don't mount it by using using those clips that push into the fins. ;) Bob From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:41:32 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:41:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> I just realized I totally missed the question and ranted away (snowed in.. cabin fever). Just run it on a toggle and flip it on when the motor is up to temperature. The potential for failure is higher with a "sensor" than a toggle switch. Bob From lfritz82 at hotmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:47:29 2010 From: lfritz82 at hotmail.com (Lorne Fritz) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:47:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bobby, Years ago I got a foam kit for a TR6. It was expensive and was of very poor quality. I went to the local upolstery shop(most wont' do cars but will cut foam) and had them make some pads from their densest foam. It was under $50 for everything. Moss's upolstery is of pretty good quailty and are easy to install. Lorne > Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:06:33 -0800 > From: igofaster at att.net > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats > > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as lfritz82 at hotmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ From timmurph at fastbytes.com Sat Feb 6 20:48:45 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:48:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000701caa7a8$744b80d0$5ce28270$@com> I'll have to look at the documentation, but I think it's around 200 or slightly higher. I've got a manual switch on the dash, wired in parallel to the temp switch, that I can flip to run the fan on the starting grid if I want. Once on the track we flip it off if we had used it. We also use it sometimes to help cool down the engine in the paddock after a session. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Mehl Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 1:43 PM To: Triumph Friends of Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Feb 6 22:10:35 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:10:35 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <6B1B6AC8FC6A4A12A0AEF962484B4B9D@Pendys> You are correct , OEM standards today are in the 200+ range and were also talking about todays engines being all aluminum....Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph Friends of'" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question >> What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > > Typically, you want it as high as possible, without the engine overheating > first. The fan sucks power and fuel, so don't run it unless necessary. > Most OEM sensors turn on around 200F or even higher. > > But it depends on the situation. If you're sitting in a grid or > something, > you might want to keep the motor cooler for best power on take-off. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Feb 7 06:01:56 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 08:01:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DAB029C72744B36A5D7A76167A2A32A@userb38463fba5> Mike, most of my experience is with street cars. Some of that will carry over however. I'd suggest that you set the switch to the temperature you want to race at or below. You will most likely only need it on the grid or in the pits when you're tuning. Here's why I say this. The fan on a street car moves a lot of air under the hood not only to cool the radiator but also to remove the under hood hot air that can cause vapor lock, especially if you're using headers. The heat from the exhaust rises directly to the carburetor bowls and boils the gas pretty quickly. You need to move that hot air the best that you can when at rest on the grid. If you wait too long to move that air it's very hard to cool the bowls before you start to move. That's why I suggest you set the temperature at or below where you want to run during the race. Actually you may want to remember to turn it on manually on the grid no matter the temperature as you need that air movement under those conditions. Under racing conditions you will most likely not need a fan and I doubt that it would do any good at racing speeds. Also, if you have not already done so make sure to install one of Joe Alexander's Heat Shields. They provide an extra pound of protection against header heat rising. We have a foot of new snow here in Hudson, my guess is that you've heard that from your relatives back here. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 2:43 PM Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > Thanks!!!!! > > Mike Mehl From gaf3 at charter.net Sun Feb 7 06:09:50 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 08:09:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> Joe How much is the kit? I've been unable to find any info on your website or Tony's on the cost. Any plans for the next production run? Bobby Try this site, http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Seats/ReupholsteringSeats.htm (Buckeye Triumphs) for excellent how to info on rebuilding the seats. Also TRF has Seat Foams and Upholstery on sale until the 18th. Glenn n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > Glenn, > > The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of > steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. > > Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. > > Third production run just sold out. > > Joe A. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Feb 7 08:21:22 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 07:21:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B6EDA72.3000205@gmail.com> Bob Adams wrote: > Just run it on a toggle and flip it on when the motor is up to temperature. > The potential for failure is higher with a "sensor" than a toggle switch. > Umm, maybe for you but I find that my toggle switch sensor often gets distracted and might only activate the toggle switch upon sensing steam emerging from the bonnet. I find that an electrical sensor has fewer distractions and is much more reliable than the one behind the wheel. However a toggle switch in parallel to a sensor & its relay makes for a sensible backup system. I tend to set my fan sensor to activate the relay 5 to 10 degrees higher than the thermostat opening temperature. TR3 radiator caps don't have a very high pressure rating and I prefer my coolant to be in the colling system and not the catch bottle. Teriann From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 7 08:32:32 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 16:32:32 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001701caa80a$c6212240$526366c0$@com> I have my switch at the bottom of the radiator and it opens on 79 degree centigrade and stops at 74 degree centigrade. So it runs if the engine has no cooling wind and the radiator water heats up. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Mike Mehl Gesendet: Samstag, 6. Februar 2010 20:43 An: Triumph Friends of Betreff: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From s.janzen at comcast.net Sun Feb 7 08:37:44 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 10:37:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6 chromoly front stub axles Message-ID: I have the front end of the GT6 all apart, and wondering if axle upgrades are warranted, and if any particular supplier's stuff is superior, or do they all come from the same manufacturer? Are the stock stub axles prone to failure? Sent from my iPhone From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 7 08:39:47 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 10:39:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats The UJR TR6 seat conversion kit In-Reply-To: <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CC7622E9A5BE18-4988-26804@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Glenn, The next run has been scheduled and will be done in about two weeks. We have been listing them at $65 plus $10 domestic shipping. there is a picture on photobucket.com/ambro danielsonfamily.org has a nice pictorial of the installation. Hardware kit, laser blanked, formed, and powder coated, in custom box with instructions. Sean did a nice job of manufacturing engineering for Jack. Thanks! Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco To: n197tr4 at cs.com Cc: igofaster at att.net; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 7, 2010 7:09 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Joe How much is the kit? I've been unable to find any info on your website or Tony's on the cost. Any plans for the next production run? Bobby Try this site, http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Seats/ReupholsteringSeats.htm (Buckeye Triumphs) for excellent how to info on rebuilding the seats. Also TRF has Seat Foams and Upholstery on sale until the 18th. Glenn n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: Glenn, The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. Third production run just sold out. Joe A. From cak at dimebank.com Sun Feb 7 17:12:05 2010 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 16:12:05 -0800 Subject: [Fot] cleaning a Quaife? Message-ID: <4B6F56D5.1000901@dimebank.com> I've got a Quaife in my GT6+; the diff ran dry and the r&p set is ruined; there was clearly some metal floating around. I can replace everything that needs replacing, but it seems worth opening the Quaife to make sure it's squeaky clean inside, rather than re-introducing metal shards to the new parts. Is this ... as obvious as it looks? Or are there hidden springs and pawls and other wondrous things in there waiting to jump into my face and onto the floor, running to hide under the bench, never to be seen again? Thanks, chris From dos_gusanos at msn.com Mon Feb 8 11:10:03 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 11:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> References: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> Message-ID: Good Topic, I've got to do a set of seats for my TR-6.................Henry Morrison, Albuquerque > From: LimeyV8 at aol.com > Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 19:15:00 -0500 > To: igofaster at att.net; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats > > last time I bought that stuff, it was A LOT cheaper to order it from Rimmer > and pay the shipping - the original type seat covers, foam etc are coming > from England anyway > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > > > > > > In a message dated 2/6/2010 1:01:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > igofaster at att.net writes: > > Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, > and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near > $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 > with pads, and doodads... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dos_gusanos at msn.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From igofaster at att.net Mon Feb 8 17:06:11 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 16:06:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <779054.58022.qm@web180710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bob... I decided 15 years ago not to destroy it to make it a race car... I've got a GT6 in DP with CVAR here in Texas... I bit the bullet and went with the sale price seats and kits with the Roadster Factory... FREE SHIPPING and about $1200 for the seat kits, pads, bits and pieces... Thank you TO ALL who offered everything including delivery (FUQUA)... too kind... Bobby Whitehead ________________________________ From: Robert M. Lang To: Bobby Whitehead Sent: Mon, February 8, 2010 8:51:50 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Hi, There's a lot to say on this one. The bottom line is "what do YOU want". If the car's going to be a driver, get some seats in it and drive. A lot of the TR6 crowd is switching to Miata seats via conversin brackets. A lot less $$$ than refurbing the stock seats. If you're going to enter concours, then the answer should be pretty obvious. Although do your research as some of the replacement material out there will NOT be 100% concours correct. If you're going to race it, then get a really good race seat. I'm partial to Kirky but only because I've been using thier seats for 10+ years. Have fun deciding! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From horizonracing at msn.com Tue Feb 9 06:54:41 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 05:54:41 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire engine Message-ID: Hi All, I have NO $$$ interest in this !! Pacific Auto machine, renton Wa. 425 226 0930 1300 Block (freshly machined +0.20) Crank (large journal?) pistons front cover block plates rods new rings sitting on the shelf for 10+ years. $5oo obo. make any offer !! Thanks Tony From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Tue Feb 9 09:47:16 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 10:47:16 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Hello all, The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting it posted so quickly! http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ Scott B. Henry Frye Triumph Technology Consultants 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) -----Original Message----- From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 9 11:27:27 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 11:27:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <4B71A90F.20204@bradakis.com> Looks quite nice! mjb. From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Tue Feb 9 11:40:56 2010 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 10:40:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <330830.43883.qm@web111409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> EXCELLENT! Ken Suhre --- On Tue, 2/9/10, Barr, Scott wrote: > From: Barr, Scott > Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > To: "Triumph Friends of" > Date: Tuesday, February 9, 2010, 10:47 AM > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming > blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if > interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to > Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kenandtweety at yahoo.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software > specialist. From John.Reed at wilson.com Tue Feb 9 13:07:33 2010 From: John.Reed at wilson.com (John Reed) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 14:07:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: Very nice!! On 2/9/10 10:47 AM, "Scott Barr" wrote: > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as john.reed at wilson.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Regards, John Reed Global Staff Photographer Creative Services Wilson Sporting Goods Co. 8750 W Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago, Illinois 60631, USA Tel. + 1.773.714.6895, fax +1.773.714.4585 John.Reed at wilson.com www.wilson.com www.amersports.com This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this e-mail is strictly forbidden. From roadandtrack at bigpond.com Tue Feb 9 15:01:46 2010 From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 08:01:46 +1000 Subject: [Fot] chasing 4A diff mount plate In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100209220143.LZMK5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Can anyone help me find a rear diff mounting plate for a TR4A. This is the alloy part that bolts onto the diff back plate, and takes the 4 rubber mounts. They are not the same as TR250, TR6 or TR6. thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia From triumphs at consolidated.net Tue Feb 9 16:21:39 2010 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 17:21:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: Looks good! kg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barr, Scott" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:47 AM Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2677 - Release Date: 02/09/10 01:35:00 From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Feb 9 19:23:52 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 21:23:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <4B7218B8.9030504@blacksburg.net> On 2/9/2010 11:47 AM, Barr, Scott wrote: Scott, it looks terrific. Who did the artwork? Kudos to him/her. jim > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From mpendy at dishmail.net Tue Feb 9 21:06:15 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 20:06:15 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> Very nice scott................Very nice.........Mark Pendy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barr, Scott" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 8:47 AM Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Feb 10 04:29:02 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:29:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FE4@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> (Thanks but, for the record, I didn't do the artwork. One of Burt's minions put that together. I just collected your photos and sent them to Burt as fodder.) -----Original Message----- From: Mark Pendergrass [mailto:mpendy at dishmail.net] Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:06 PM To: Barr, Scott; Triumph Friends of Subject: Re: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Very nice scott................Very nice.........Mark Pendy From BillDentin at aol.com Wed Feb 10 08:10:47 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 10:10:47 EST Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Message-ID: <3de7.ff4f756.38a42677@aol.com> In a message dated 02/10/2010 6:11:06 AM Central Standard Time, sbarr at McCarty-Law.com writes: > (Thanks but, for the record, I didn't do the artwork. One of Burt's > minions put that together. I just collected your photos and sent them > to Burt as fodder.) > Long time racing photographer and scribe, Art Eastman did that artwork. And I know for a fact there is a warm spot for TRIUMPHs in his heart. Bill Dentinger From billsohl at optonline.net Wed Feb 10 10:05:07 2010 From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 12:05:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Just too much email to keep up. Message-ID: <8F6D211A67BE475D87663E387D39019C@SohlPC> FOTers, I just can't keep up anymore with the volume. Hope to return after retirement down the road at the end of 2011. Cheers and best wishes to all during the racing season for 2010 and 2011. I'll be unsubscribing after this email. Bill Sohl From BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com Wed Feb 10 19:58:29 2010 From: BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com (Bill Bartlett) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Message-ID: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Hi Gents, I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake "proportioning"? Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, or should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to work by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, where the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the rear brake line to the slaves. What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the proportioning the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master bores to start with eh? My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different length bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the peddle assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal set, put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different bushing sets for say wet and dry? Thoughts? And thank you for your time Bill PS; this is for a GT6 From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Feb 10 21:18:02 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 23:18:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Message-ID: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> Found this looking for other things. Some here may be able to identify the car. Paul http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/651640/Re_Help_ needed_with_info_on_vi From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Feb 11 06:51:25 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:51:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? In-Reply-To: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> References: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> Thanks Paul............ That's cool! Can anyone make contact with this guy? This would be a nice addition to the FOT. There are a couple of other specials floating around out there and they pop up once in awhile, but they get away. Can somebody lock on to this guy? Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Paul MacDonald To: Fot Sent: Wed, Feb 10, 2010 10:18 pm Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Found this looking for other things. Some here may be able to identify the ar. Paul http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/651640/Re_Help_ eeded_with_info_on_vi Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Thu Feb 11 08:25:26 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 10:25:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR7 speeder Message-ID: <10D367B2F0004B1583D3C816FDD47FAC@your4dacd0ea75> http://flashbackracing.com/2010/02/may-2009-%e2%80%93-the-flashback-racing-t r7-land-speed-racer-bumps-record-at-maxton-to-111-715-mph/ Also check out this organization. Sounds like a cool meet to attend.242mph bikes.. http://www.ecta-lsr.com/ Would be interesting to see some FOT cars run this. Sounds a little easier than the salt at Bonneville. Paul From herald948 at aol.com Thu Feb 11 09:03:26 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:03:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? In-Reply-To: <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> References: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC794AE14D0253-142C-4C84@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Joe, I'd be willing to do so, as I'm a member of the British Car Forum. What would you like me to do: invite him to contact you? or ???? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: macdonaldp at rogers.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2010 8:51 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Thanks Paul............ That's cool! Can anyone make contact with this guy? From jason at multivintage.com Thu Feb 11 12:47:18 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 12:47:18 -0700 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> The set up you have should be Ok for vintage. Most of the really well prepped gt6's have the dual master set up with original triumph equipment. I feel the only candidate for the tilton pedals would be like tube frame scca car or something. That's kind of a major modernization and is not in line with what the plenty fast guys like group 44 and mr. kastner did back in the day. Plus with the good racing break pads they make nowdays even a stock set up with a single master should be ok. My car has only one master and has raced on scca national level since newly built in 1970, over 100 races on the log books. Who needs brakes anyway? gt6jason Friendly Ghost Racing On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tlizzard at msn.com Thu Feb 11 16:27:17 2010 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:27:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Brake bias. In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: A single, OEM Triumph, properly sized dual bore master cylinder can be very effective indeed. And, it's simple. There is much elegance in simplicity. Terry Stetler From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 17:12:22 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:12:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: I have had some bad results with uneven brake bias.At one time I had just the proportioning valve going the the rear brakes after the rears were up graded to discs on my Tr 6 The trouble was I could never take enough psi off the rear and that was not good The tilton system is not to costly and considering the infinite adjustment from the cockpit. I would not want to be stuck with a shim adjustment. Now I can set them up as I like and don't have to settle for "there all most what I want" good luck with your decision. rob ps If you go with the tilton set up and need the sizes on the masters etc I will be happy to look them over and pass on the data I have 2 or 3 new masters that I could not use either to small or large can't remember ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Bartlett" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 9:58 PM Subject: [Fot] (no subject) > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 17:57:11 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:57:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that good a driver, so close is good enough! With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar > appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two > masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right > master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of > the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 11 18:26:42 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:26:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> Message-ID: I used two clutch masters since they were the same size as the brake master on my Mk1 Spit. The only difference was the size of the reservoir which I figured was sufficient for half the braking system and so far I have been proven correct. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 5:57 PM To: Bill Bartlett Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that good a driver, so close is good enough! With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar > appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two > masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right > master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of > the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From timmurph at fastbytes.com Thu Feb 11 20:23:53 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:23:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 20:32:31 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 22:32:31 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Selling my 1961 TR4 - definite financial interest! Message-ID: <6849739F-2D4D-460F-8021-38A4987DCFFF@comcast.net> Original, never restored, runs great, patina galore, $9700 here, more elsewhere. Incoming project, two car garage, GT6 racer stays, I'll regret it but this one has to go. Philadelphia area. Sorry to bomb the list, but I'd like to see it go to someone that will appreciate it for what it is. http://1961triumphtr4forsale.blogspot.com/2010/02/1961-triumph-tr4-for-sale.html From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 20:51:49 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:51:49 -1000 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Brake bias. In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: And a lot of lousy braking. Brakes make you go fast, if you don't get them right then most of the other stuff won't matter. To set your brakes up properly you need adjustable bias. A compensating valve only decreases the braking force applied to the rear, which might be okay if that's your problem. I like cabin adjustable bias but swapping out spacers or turning a screw works fine too. Just spend some time getting the car not to swap ends under very hard braking and you're good. You can drive around having your brakes not quite right, but why would you. Easy to do, and very cheap compared to everything else. I like having both brake cylinders the same, but that's just because it's minimal parts to carry. On Feb 11, 2010, at 1:27 PM, Terry Stetler wrote: > A single, OEM Triumph, properly sized dual bore master cylinder can be very > effective indeed. And, it's simple. > > There is much elegance in simplicity. > > > > Terry Stetler > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 20:55:22 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:55:22 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <406BD5BC-11AD-465E-8F88-53BFCB563984@bnj.com> I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 21:01:08 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 20:01:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <802456.73880.qm@web81208.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his Erson cam. I used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold with stock 1.75" SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This engine pulls like a mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in a normally aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the replacement engine for free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls the supercharged engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the supercharger and it's manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. -Ed- --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: From: Tim Murphy Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 21:08:20 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 20:08:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! Message-ID: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Gotta get one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 22:55:46 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:55:46 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Fri Feb 12 00:31:56 2010 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 02:31:56 EST Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <2035f.25a852e5.38a65dec@aol.com> Tim, I have actually seen TR 3 & 4 engines go as high as 92 mm jugs & pistons. Just make sure you don't deck the block too much. Same goes for milling the head. If you want some professional help Daryl Uprichard of Racetorations has done this quite often. Ken Gilanders probably has too so it might help to visit with them on what size fits what you are going to use the car for. I have one of Daryl's engines waiting on me to finish the body work. I elected to use the 89 mm because the 92 mm makes for some pretty narrow spaces between the jugs. Daryl ran the 92's in his race cars. As you can imagine they will significantly increase the kick in the pants when you hit the gas pedal. Especially with one of Larry's cams. Just make sure you have the right fuel pump to keep up with the demand. Of course all the other things need to be balanced as well. Needles in the carbs, intake and exhaust valve size and some decent porting and polishing on both sides make a difference. My recommendation is to gather as much info going in and then have the engine dyno tuned. You will be much more pleased that just what us mere mortals can do in the shop. Cheers, Gary In a message dated 2/11/2010 11:56:05 P.M. Central Standard Time, billb at bnj.com writes: I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gsfuqua1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 12 05:28:11 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:28:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Chris Crisenberry Message-ID: <006501caabde$d77f8b30$867ea190$@net> Please contact me off list. I hope I didn't mangle your name too badly. Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Feb 12 05:30:33 2010 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:30:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! In-Reply-To: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Best toy ever!!!! Terry Stetler ----- Original Message ----- From: EDWARD BARNARD To: FOT ; Joshua Barnard Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 11:08 PM Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! Gotta get one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tlizzard at msn.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Feb 12 08:28:24 2010 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:28:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! References: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2E2189E79D3A47D5AEDD7AB4F1793AF4@Charly> Funny, I have an Austin 1800 that sounds exactly like that if I tune the radio to the AM band. I think the generator and the spark plug leads must be in 'tune' with each other. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 BTW, congratulations to Mark York in taking 1st place points in SOVREN division 1 with his 57 TR3, Good work Mark! ----- Original Message ----- From: "EDWARD BARNARD" To: "FOT" ; "Joshua Barnard" Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! > Gotta get one! > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 09:34:44 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:34:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401702048@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <614027.46846.qm@web81203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Scott: The power it makes is not the RPM type power we get out of a Honda where you have to buzz the motor up to feel something. This is a torquey power you feel in the seat of your pants. Although it consistently pulls in the 8.5 second 0-60 times the impressive part is that you can pull away from a light in third without it shuddering (with a stock TR3 gearbox and rear end). When driving, if you want to pass you simply push the go peddle, and you can feel the grunt pull you around the other cars in a flash. It doesn't sound much different than a stock 83, 86, or 87mm car, it just honking pulls you around with authority. If building one for myself I wouldn't hesitate spending the extra few bucks. -Ed- --- On Fri, 2/12/10, Barr, Scott wrote: From: Barr, Scott Subject: RE: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: "EDWARD BARNARD" Date: Friday, February 12, 2010, 7:48 AM Hi Ed You said << This engine pulls like a mule. >> I'm just curious what that means in comparison to modern cars since I've been thinking about a possible TR4 street car project. What kind of acceleration (0-60) would this sort of set-up provide? Scott B. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD BARNARD Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 10:01 PM To: Tim Murphy Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his Erson cam. I used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold with stock 1.75" SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This engine pulls like a mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in a normally aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the replacement engine for free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls the supercharged engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the supercharger and it's manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. -Ed- --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: From: Tim Murphy Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 09:55:57 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:55:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <02.F1.04431.E18757B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <802753.4238.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Randall: Although I left everything down below stock, I'm sure the car could really come to life with some head work. We're talking stock rods and crank with a stock high port head with stock manifolds and carbs, atop a stock block. The Babe Erson cam (Larry wasn't doing his cams yet), with Ken's 89mm kit and Joe's lightened flywheel. The block needed no relieving at all. The car is here in Texas so cooling was a fear, but, not a problem after all. I did my normal mods...stock TR3 cooling fan with a modern stlye (non-sleeve) 160 degree thermostat and the bypass pipe in the thermostat housing blocked off to 1/4". The car has never showed signs of getting above the half way point on the gauge even in the summer. This car can show in concourse because none of the mods take away from the look of a stock "3" -Ed- --- On Fri, 2/12/10, Randall wrote: From: Randall Subject: RE: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: "'EDWARD BARNARD'" Date: Friday, February 12, 2010, 9:47 AM Thanks for the info, Ed. I'm planning something similar myself, except with a little headwork; 4-2-1 exhaust & Larry Young's street cam; so it's good to hear it works out. Ken seemed a little worried about cooling with the 89s on the street. Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD BARNARD > Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:01 PM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 > > Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his > Erson cam. I > used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold > with stock 1.75" > SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This > engine pulls like a > mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson > supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept > refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in > a normally > aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the > replacement engine for > free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls > the supercharged > engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the > supercharger and it's > manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. > -Ed- > > --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: > > > From: Tim Murphy > Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 > To: fot at autox.team.net > Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov > Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM > > > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 > TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged > pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or > 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that > would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already > put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust > manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams > for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the > CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to > 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Fri Feb 12 16:07:11 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Terry and Cindy) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:07:11 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some jag top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 12 16:17:41 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 18:17:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> Wish I could drive my car well enough to recognize a need to make a bias change on the next lap. My in car camera is new last season and my braking is way to early, not even close to lock up on entering. and I'm to easy getting back to the gas on exit. The camera is great because I can see so much room for improvement. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Bill Bartlett" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 7:57 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) > My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel > comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters > - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a > little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting > assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton > bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. > I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts > lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at > the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, > etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that > good a driver, so close is good enough! > With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether > the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in > the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. > > > On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett > wrote: >> Hi Gents, >> I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake >> "proportioning"? >> Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front > and >> rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from > the >> cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear > brakes, >> or >> should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar >> appears to >> work >> by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two >> masters, >> where >> the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru > the >> rear brake line to the slaves. >> What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the >> proportioning >> the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right >> master >> bores >> to start with eh? >> My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different >> length >> bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of >> the >> peddle >> assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable > pedal >> set, >> put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different >> bushing >> sets for say wet and dry? >> Thoughts? >> And thank you for your time >> Bill >> PS; this is for a GT6 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 17:01:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 14:01:08 -1000 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 12 17:26:39 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:26:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> Message-ID: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how we learned to be better drivers? rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. Usually these kind of turns are fiddly things, and there's not a great deal of time to be made up by doing them better, but proper brake bias adjustment is important for the big high speed turns so you can get the braking done, get back on the gas and push the nose into the turn. You won't feel the bias problem there, but if your car has unbalanced braking you won't be able to get through the turn anywhere near as fast. Ultimately mid corner speed is where all the lap time improvements come from, and the only way to get there is balanced braking and getting the car settled. = From jhassall at blacksburg.net Fri Feb 12 18:51:13 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:51:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <4B760591.3030304@blacksburg.net> On 2/11/2010 10:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: Tim, I installed a set in my autox / street TR4. The pistons were much lighter (sorry, no access to the engine build log at the moment, so can't quantify "much") and came w/Deves rings. What's not to like? I ported and cc'd the head and shaved it to 10.0:1, which works fine with what passes for premium pump gas. The cam is an Isky 777. With all those bits, and 40 DCOEs that are waaaay too rich at the moment, I can light the tires in second gear. Hehehe I forgot to mention that I'm also running BFE's oversize and gas-flowed valves (Ken's valves were almost too pretty to install). This engine pumps some *serious* air! While you're working on your engine, why not have the crank nitrided (I'm assuming you're using a stock crank). Shaftech did mine, and it now rings like a bell. jim > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From horizonracing at msn.com Fri Feb 12 22:04:27 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:04:27 -0800 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: Rob, I started young; Cooper 500 at 15, Mini Cooper at 18, Formula Ford at 21 in NZ, Aust & Europe. Now raced 64 Different Race cars at 56 different tracks. mostly vintage type cars as that is what I enjoy the most! Tires are skinny and the driver is fat. There is no one way to get better, But it starts with a "Great" Driving school. Not some noddy playschool toys but Real race cars with real race drivers as tutors. Go watch a local Sprint/midget car race! Pavement or dirt. Take notes of the starts & restarts. Find some buddy's and get your own indoor go karting league going. 3 x 1 hour races a night per month or more! "Seat time". Inter car club races usually gets the Blood flowing ;) Get somebody "really Good" to test your car. Not to break it, but to set it up and set a bench mark for you. This is important ! I do this a lot for folks in Vintage and it's usually the real simple things that can turn a car around from a pig to a nice enjoyable ride. I hope I haven't come across too conceited, and if I have...... blame Bill Babcock ;) Cheers Tony > From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > To: billb at bnj.com; fot at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:26:39 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) > > Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how > we learned to be better drivers? rob From timmurph at fastbytes.com Fri Feb 12 22:24:09 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 23:24:09 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Thanks for all of the input. I'm still in the planning stages on this so will have to consider all the info. I'm thinking, seeing as how we don't have unlimited funds to do everything, that we might get more bang for the buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Reducing that stock inertia will have huge dividends in response and get more torque to the rear wheels instead of trying to get that thing rotating. We are planning to at least clean all of the casting slag out of the head ports. The car is in storage right now in Mequon in my daughters garage (about 50 miles south of me) and I'm not even sure which head and intake manifold it has on it, other than I'm sure it's stock. Ryan is the second owner and bought the car from my late friend Art Last before he passed away. That was about 10 years ago. And I know Art didn't do any serious engine work. Are there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? I think that's the one with the flat on the manifold side by #1. It's what we have on the race car and I think we have another spare. We've also got a spare "long runner" intake manifold as used on the race car. We really appreciate the info on compression ratio and octane. Really don't want the hassle of adding octane booster and there aren't any stations in our immediate area that sell race gas. I don't even think it's illegal to put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. If I remember correctly, that's how the law was originally stated, that it was illegal to put leaded gas in a car with a catalyst. Thanks again. Will continue to look for any further info from the Amici and will post when I come up with a plan and see what the folks think. Tim From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 22:49:37 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:49:37 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> References: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Message-ID: <02B37C05-0A89-4757-BC24-F1ADBA7F4372@bnj.com> There's lots of unleaded race gas, not illegal to add it, and it gives a lot bigger octane boost than the math says it would. Someone told me why once, but I forget. That said, I'd go for displacement and low compression--cheapest way to power. Higher compression stresses everything. Keep it simple, a mild cam so all your gas doesn't go out the exhaust, big pistons, and blueprint everything and you'll have a great motor. Definitely get the crank nitrided. I'll probably use Mikuni Solex carbs because I have a set. All you really need to do for the ports is match everything up and clean off the really rough spots. Don't get carried away, unless you have a flow bench and know how to use it to gain flow, you WON'T improve anything. I have a TR3 "kit" in my shop that I need to build. I'll be doing it exactly that way. Nice chesty motor, good electrics, quaife rear end (I've already got one), and a blueprinted stock gearbox with overdrive (have that too). Do all the suspension mods to make it handle, good brakes, and bob's yer uncle. On Feb 12, 2010, at 7:24 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Thanks for all of the input. I'm still in the planning stages on this so > will have to consider all the info. I'm thinking, seeing as how we don't > have unlimited funds to do everything, that we might get more bang for the > buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Reducing > that stock inertia will have huge dividends in response and get more torque > to the rear wheels instead of trying to get that thing rotating. We are > planning to at least clean all of the casting slag out of the head ports. > The car is in storage right now in Mequon in my daughters garage (about 50 > miles south of me) and I'm not even sure which head and intake manifold it > has on it, other than I'm sure it's stock. Ryan is the second owner and > bought the car from my late friend Art Last before he passed away. That was > about 10 years ago. And I know Art didn't do any serious engine work. Are > there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? I think > that's the one with the flat on the manifold side by #1. It's what we have > on the race car and I think we have another spare. We've also got a spare > "long runner" intake manifold as used on the race car. > > > > We really appreciate the info on compression ratio and octane. Really don't > want the hassle of adding octane booster and there aren't any stations in > our immediate area that sell race gas. I don't even think it's illegal to > put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. If I remember > correctly, that's how the law was originally stated, that it was illegal to > put leaded gas in a car with a catalyst. > > > > Thanks again. Will continue to look for any further info from the Amici and > will post when I come up with a plan and see what the folks think. > > > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 23:59:24 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:59:24 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <7A23FE1E-5489-402F-91EA-98EF14D59250@bnj.com> Hmm--I blabbed too much--it bounced. Two pieces: Tony's a hell of a good driver, but I'm not taking responsibility for his attitude. I don't consider myself a good racer. I think I used to be an okay motorcycle racer, but my reflexes are nothing like they used to be. I have to drive cars within the boundaries of my current capabilities and I think I do that OK. I can tell you what I did. I raced motorcycles from age 17 (1965) until I was about 30. 1/2 mile, TT, and mile when I was a kid, added motocross and a little roadracing when I got older. I started driving cars about 25 years ago with a Rabbit in SCCA and ICSSC races. The car was the previous year's Northwest champ, and it had just been bought by my boss at the software company I worked for--who promptly broke it. He wanted to race but had the mechanical sympathy of a goat. I wrenched in return for using the car out of class. Did that for a few years and got the bug. I went from that to vintage. Did a Bondurant school, and then did a bunch of ICSSC and SCCA schools just for the teaching and track time--already had the license. Raced my TR3 until someone decided to take a serious look at it (not much was legal) and bought Peyote in 1999. I felt I wasn't getting enough track time to progress, so I bought a Radical DSR car and raced it in SCCA and ICSSC. Pretty much raced every weekend of the race season for a few years, switching back and forth between Peyote and the Radical. more... From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 00:00:20 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:00:20 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> the rest... Driving a really fast DSR car competitively made me a lot better driver than a whole bunch of seat time in a vintage car or a Rabbit. You can't make silly mistakes in a wings and slicks car that does lap times in the range of Formula Atlantics. You have to hustle the car, you have to get the brake points right, you have to get used to going through a turn at a couple of Gs and clipping the apex within an inch every lap. Screw up and it's off the track, end of story. Won the Northwest Regional Championship in 2001. Sold the Radical when the Stohrs came out and made it obsolete. Still race Peyote. I think if you want to be a good driver you need to learn to hustle a car. To push it a little harder in the corners and get your exit speed up. Seat time is important, but if you aren't pushing, and you're not analyzing what you're doing then it doesn't do much but wear out parts. I see people get stalled at a certain point in their driving and never get past it. That's fine if you're comfortable with that, but if you like to push yourself then there's always another second to pick up. The difference between first and tenth in a vintage race is usually about 5-6 seconds. Half a second per corner. You should be able to feel the front end in a corner, feel what happens when you ease off the steering pressure to reduce understeer. Feel the back end traction and how much you can push with the throttle to get the car to rotate. You need to play with that stuff in practice and on test and tune days to really understand the dynamics of your car. And you need to learn to drive around problems. I find myself not paying enough attention to break points, turn in, and keeping the car balance. When you do that you need to give yourself a good slap and get back on the program. With enough experience you should be able to work out how deep you can go in a corner without running off the track or spinning. Most times you won't really be at the edge, but you can get fairly close with a vintage car, because the edge isn't that far out there--skinny tires and horse cart suspension ensures that. I also find it's important to get to tracks you're not experienced with, and push yourself at learning them. Makes you better everywhere. Confidence in your equipment helps a lot too. Peyote is a good car that's been made steadily more reliable and sound. I expect it to be really good this year since Tony is doing the prep work. I still give the brakes a quick pump coming into a fast turn. I could be a tiny bit quicker if I didn't do that. If silly things are breaking, or you don't have confidence in your brakes, or you're afraid an axle might break or your steering might fail, then you just can't go fast. The fast way through a big corner is to hold the throttle to the floor until the last microsecond, get on the brakes and stay on them at the limits of traction, ease off the brakes as you turn in, keeping the car balanced, be off the brakes completely before the apex and be rolling on the throttle to keep the car rotating, be at full throttle at the apex. Nick the edge of the track with your outside rear wheel because that's the only place that physics will allow the car to be. Lather, rinse, repeat. If you don't do that, you are not anywhere near the edge, because the edge is a ways past that. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 00:13:38 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:13:38 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> References: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> Message-ID: <699816E2-2D29-4CA0-BAD8-DC7D552E06B2@bnj.com> You can't just gain caster with a balljoint change--it will place a bind on the trunnion. Peyote has 3 degrees of caster using TR6 parts--nice to have. Clearly what you got is a TR3/4 trunnion. I got mine from Moss and they were fine. On Feb 12, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Terry and Cindy wrote: > I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had > zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, > its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. > Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? > > Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the > vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie > rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match > with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) > TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). > > Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some jag > top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. > > > Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com Sat Feb 13 09:25:30 2010 From: BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com (Bill Bartlett) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 11:25:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] improved Driving In-Reply-To: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D31148C@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> HI Rob, Well said Bill Babcock, I enjoy vintage racing my MGA Coupe and Lotus 7, but it was not until I started racing a Lotus 51 Formula Ford (Vintage of course) that I got a comparative of just where I was in the pack. I quickly realized how important correct braking really was. It is far easier exiting a corner, then entering it, and after all the entering is really what sets up the exiting. I had a great race with Jesse Prather at VIR once, Jesse in a B and I in the Lotus 7. One would expect the 7 to lead and true to the cars capabilities I would create a nice lead coming out of the corners but Jesse always closed the gap at the end of the straights - a great fight, with the better car winning. But what about the driving? When I started racing the 51 it was immediately apparent that I was leaving way too much at the end of the straights. My race with Jesse came to mind (perhaps I should say lesson) and I immediately started decreasing the break point until I pissed my pants at the end every straight. The 51 is a real race car and as such I am learning about set up and the delicate balance of running a car UP on the tires, while keeping my eyes well down the track. What does this have to do with Triumphs? Well I am banging away on a GT6 and hope to be running with the B's again perhaps mid season. :) Bill -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:27 PM To: Bill Babcock; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how we learned to be better drivers? rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. Usually these kind of turns are fiddly things, and there's not a great deal of time to be made up by doing them better, but proper brake bias adjustment is important for the big high speed turns so you can get the braking done, get back on the gas and push the nose into the turn. You won't feel the bias problem there, but if your car has unbalanced braking you won't be able to get through the turn anywhere near as fast. Ultimately mid corner speed is where all the lap time improvements come from, and the only way to get there is balanced braking and getting the car settled. = Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as billbartlett at wingnutracing.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 13 10:43:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:43:20 -0800 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> References: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Message-ID: > we might get more bang for the > buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Yes! I've currently got a Fidanza alloy wheel behind a nearly stock TR3 motor, and I love it. > Are there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? Yes, but that's almost certainly what you have. "Low port" heads were only found on TR2 and early TR3. See http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_heads.htm for more info. > I don't even think it's illegal to > put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. I believe it is illegal to drive it on the street though, unless you can find race gas that has had the road taxes paid on it. Randall From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Feb 13 12:15:11 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:15:11 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> Message-ID: <000901caace0$df8fde80$9eaf9b80$@com> I have a good indicator if I'm fast or not: If I feel comfortable then I'm slow. So I have to jump over that comfort limit and get the car on the tippy toes....then it is sailing through corners really fast. Cheers Chris (Bill - I like your explanations) From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 17:09:39 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100213.190448.9971.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> References: <20100213.190448.9971.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <468FEF85-F1CB-4867-BC75-24EBCEC08E39@bnj.com> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least of the problems. On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Bill Babcock > To: Terry and Cindy > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries > Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:13:38 -1000 > > You can't just gain caster with a balljoint change--it will place a bind on > the trunnion. Peyote has 3 degrees of caster using TR6 parts--nice to have. > > Clearly what you got is a TR3/4 trunnion. I got mine from Moss and they were > fine. > > > On Feb 12, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Terry and Cindy wrote: > >> I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had >> zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, >> its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. >> Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? >> >> Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the >> vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie >> rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match >> with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) >> TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). >> >> Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some > jag >> top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. >> >> >> Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=pX-dIceZhFclW1sFjuEyTQAAJz43 aog8pNplkPMflQ6BI_PmAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 17:39:04 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:39:04 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> References: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Bill Babcock > To: "Joe Boruch" > Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries > Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 > > I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least of the problems. > > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > >> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 13 20:12:48 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:12:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Message-ID: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something here? I would use them on a TR3... Best, M Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 13 20:29:54 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:29:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? Message-ID: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M From britbits at netzero.net Sat Feb 13 21:08:44 2010 From: britbits at netzero.net (britbits at netzero.net) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 04:08:44 GMT Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Message-ID: <20100213.220844.14107.0@webmail17.dca.untd.com> Mark, Run the ARP part number past the folks at summit racing (www.summitracing.com). They can get all the ARP part numbers, even though they don't list them in their catalog. Typically 25% to 50% cheaper than the usual LBC suppliers. The last time I picked up head stud sets for a 1500 Spitfire they were $55. NFI. Let us know what they say. Cheers, Jim Dallas Too many toys, not enough time ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Mark Eginton To: "fot at autox.team.net" Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:12:48 -0500 Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something here? I would use them on a TR3... Best, M Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0 QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Small Business Tools Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/c?cp=GDFdGPkQOVXbnvY48VkkWwAAJ1GU 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARMQAAAAA= From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Feb 13 22:22:52 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 23:22:52 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> I've been getting them from some Jap car tuner site for about that. http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/arp-206-4207 - Tony Drews At 09:12 PM 2/13/2010, Mark Eginton wrote: >Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something >here? I would use them on a TR3... > >Best, > >M > >Click here > > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 23:00:41 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:00:41 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads done with hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My vincent still has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. On Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." > > Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. > > Best, > > M > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From cwnfot at gmail.com Sun Feb 14 06:38:47 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:38:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> Check with Ted Schumacher on ARP, if he doesn't join in here on his own! I try to give Ted a shot at all parts I buy. Gotta support our own! (Hi Ted!) Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Sun Feb 14 06:48:07 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:48:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> References: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <4B77FF17.4060309@cfl.rr.com> Joe, I am in the middle of installing TR4A/TR6 front suspension on my TR3. Here is what I am using: Upper fulcrum pins are the same. Uncle Jack shortened TR4A/TR6 upper control arms. Vertical link is TR4A/TR6. TR6 ball joint. Trunnion is TR4A/TR6. Lower control arms are TR4A/TR6. I also discovered that the nylatron kit (supplied by BFE) that fits the upper inner TR4A/TR6 control arms also fits the lower TR4A/TR6 inner control arms and the stainless steel sleeve fits the lower TR3 fulcrum pins. The upper and lower fulcrum pins measure the same diameter and same length on the TR3. Bob Davis Bill Babcock wrote: > I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't > recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can > put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I > don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an > inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written > down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > > >> Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit >> > on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: Bill Babcock >> To: "Joe Boruch" >> Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries >> Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 >> >> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed >> > that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least > of the problems. > >> On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: >> >> >>> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at >>> > it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That > would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 14 06:56:42 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:56:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CC7B94ABC92517-6CB4-1301A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> the worst that i have seen is mild valve recession. joe a -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Mark Eginton Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 12:00 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads done ith hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My vincent till has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. n Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve o unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage otorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on his engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like o use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage ither. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 07:52:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:52:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" Message-ID: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews From 58tr3a at videotron.ca Sun Feb 14 07:53:07 2010 From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:53:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <86FF551C12994793BFC4622AC67D56F9@elliott7455dae> I rebuilt the engine for my 1958 TR3A in 1988 during my restoration from 1987 to 1990. It had 80,300 miles on it from new. I decided I'd run an experiment. I would drive it on un-leaded fuel till I needed to put in valve seat inserts. I use my TR for normal touring, sometimes for long trips and at high speed on major roads. I drove 40,000 miles on my rebuilt head with un-leaded high-octane pump fuel and no additives. Some of the valves were still the original ones. Starting about 35,000 miles after the re-build, I noticed that I needed to re-gap my exhaust valves more frequently. At 40,000 miles, the gaps for the exhaust valves had dropped from 0.012" down to 0.002" in only 2,000 miles. Then I had to re-gap them every 1,000 miles. So, in 2000, with 43,000 miles on the head since 1990, I decided to have valve seat inserts installed. Some of the valves were razor sharp around the edges. The seats had recessed upwards (valve seat recession) about 1/32" into the cast iron head. It was time. I bought 8 new valves and 8 new valve guides. I had an engine re-build shop do the work. I had him put the inserts in the head for the 4 exhaust valves. Since 2000 when I had this done, I've driven 59 ,000 touring miles and even though I check the valve gaps every 5,000 miles, I've only had to adjust two or three gaps a few times. Each time, it's been a different valve. And this is only a few thou when I have to do it. So it was a really a good decision to have them done. Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads > done > with hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My > vincent > still has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > >> As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a >> valve > to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage > motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be > safe on > this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I > like > to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage > either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." >> >> Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. >> >> Best, >> >> M >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 58tr3a at videotron.ca > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 14 08:02:06 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:02:06 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001001caad86$adca7530$095f5f90$@com> I am carrying a spare with me since year 2005. Since then nothing did break anymore. Maybe it's a good spell on it. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Tony Drews Gesendet: Sonntag, 14. Februar 2010 15:52 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 14 08:54:32 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 07:54:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question Message-ID: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. I guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it really worth the cost and effort to convert? "Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" From billsohl at optonline.net Sun Feb 14 09:13:59 2010 From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:13:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? Message-ID: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Sorry to bomb the list, but I must not have the latest process correct to unsubscribe. I sent an email with unsubscribe as the subject, but that was several days ago and I am still getting emails. Thanks for any help. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 14 09:29:12 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:29:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <002501caad92$d88e37f0$89aaa7d0$@net> This pops up every now and then. My dad wrote an article that is now on the VTR website regarding valve seat recession. It used to be kept on the Team.Net site. See: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.shtml Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Eginton Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 10:30 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as dmitchel at sbcglobal.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 09:31:36 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 06:31:36 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question In-Reply-To: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You certainly can use just a fluid bias--lots of race cars use them. They seem to work better on more modern cars. It's really a matter of what you get used to. Fluid bias adjusters restrict the fluid to the rear brakes, so you generally use a lot more pedal pressure to stop. I used one in the Rabbit I raced, and it was finicky compared to a bias bar, but it worked. I think I fiddled with it a lot more than I do with a bias bar, but that might just be me. On Feb 14, 2010, at 5:54 AM, Mark Vanlake wrote: > Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times > from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current > question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster > and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake > cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit > pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, > you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level > where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > > I > guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel > master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid > bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it > really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > > "Experience is that marvelous > thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sun Feb 14 09:31:48 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? In-Reply-To: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> References: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Message-ID: <4B782574.7070408@twcny.rr.com> Every so often someone writes complaining about the emails. There is another option that works great. Every month you get a notification from "autox.team.net mailing list memberships reminder". At the bottom is a link to your "options". Years ago I unchecked the box that sends emails. Now I am still a member and can browse the archives and catch up on the latest - at my leisure but my email is not stuffed daily. Make yourself a desktop shortcut to http://autox.team.net/pipermail/fot/ It takes you directly to the archives and in an hour you can see what happened last month... Consider the option to keep in touch without all the emails. Works great for me... M From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Feb 14 10:14:51 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (rkramer3 at austin.rr.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 17:14:51 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> I have been filling the cavity inside the TRF provided rear mount with silicone, a little at a time to completely fill the cavity, emulating the gel shock absorbtion found in running shoes. This is done with the hope that the silocone will absorb some harmonics at the same time as adding some extra adhersion to the rubber and metal parts. It has worked for a couple of years. I use the little angle pieces on the sides to keep it from squeezing out. Bob Kramer ---- Tony Drews wrote: > What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from > breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the > big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem > to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off > of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tony Drews > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rkramer3 at austin.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 10:18:36 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 07:18:36 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> References: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> Message-ID: <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> I use solid front mounts and a standard rear mount. I like Bob's approach--I'll have to try that. Solid mounts make the car a little buzzier, but I don't have to worry about breaking engine mounts. With Joe's aluminum front plate the vibration is damped quite a bit. On Feb 14, 2010, at 7:14 AM, wrote: > I have been filling the cavity inside the TRF provided rear mount with silicone, a little at a time to completely fill the cavity, emulating the gel shock absorbtion found in running shoes. This is done with the hope that the silocone will absorb some harmonics at the same time as adding some extra adhersion to the rubber and metal parts. It has worked for a couple of years. I use the little angle pieces on the sides to keep it from squeezing out. > > Bob Kramer > > ---- Tony Drews wrote: >> What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from >> breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the >> big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem >> to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off >> of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? >> >> Thanks in advance... >> >> Tony Drews >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as rkramer3 at austin.rr.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:19:52 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:19:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> Message-ID: <4B7830B8.3070009@bright.net> Clark, thanks. Yes, we can supply the full line of ARP. Please call with needs. Ted Clark W. Nicholls wrote: > Check with Ted Schumacher on ARP, if he doesn't join in here on his own! > I try to give Ted a shot at all parts I buy. Gotta support our own! > > (Hi Ted!) > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:40:12 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B78357C.1010109@bright.net> Mark, your machinist is correct. Our machine shop does several hundred heads a year, including about 100 each year for us (MG, TR3 - TR8, Healey, etc.) With this kind of statistical universe, we see very little recession. Occasionally yes, but in the minority. We always use stainless exhaust valves on all heads except TR7 and TR8 - they were already fully no-lead compatible. Ted Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a > valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including > vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I > would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when > an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has > never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." > > Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. > > Best, > > M > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Sun Feb 14 10:46:38 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:46:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <4B77FF17.4060309@cfl.rr.com> Message-ID: <765515.92038.qm@web81206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Group: One of the questions asked and not yet addressed is the spring pan. When putting the TR6 suspension to a TR3 you need to retain the TR3 spring pan. The TR3 shock tower protrudes out from the chassis more than the TR6 tower, so the TR3 spring pan has a deeper cut-out on the inboard side. A TR6 spring pan will foul the shock tower on a TR3 chassis. Anyone need some TR6 spring pans? I have leftovers from doing many suspension conversions. Thanks - Ed --- On Sun, 2/14/10, Bob wrote: From: Bob Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Date: Sunday, February 14, 2010, 7:48 AM Joe, I am in the middle of installing TR4A/TR6 front suspension on my TR3. Here is what I am using: Upper fulcrum pins are the same. Uncle Jack shortened TR4A/TR6 upper control arms. Vertical link is TR4A/TR6. TR6 ball joint. Trunnion is TR4A/TR6. Lower control arms are TR4A/TR6. I also discovered that the nylatron kit (supplied by BFE) that fits the upper inner TR4A/TR6 control arms also fits the lower TR4A/TR6 inner control arms and the stainless steel sleeve fits the lower TR3 fulcrum pins. The upper and lower fulcrum pins measure the same diameter and same length on the TR3. Bob Davis Bill Babcock wrote: > I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't > recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can > put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I > don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an > inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written > down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > > >> Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit >> > on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: Bill Babcock >> To: "Joe Boruch" >> Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries >> Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 >> >> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed >> > that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least > of the problems. > >> On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: >> >> >>> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at >>> > it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That > would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:45:48 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:45:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4B7836CC.4000300@bright.net> Tony, very easy to fix. Convert to a late model TR6/Spitfire mount set-up. They use 2 rubber stud on each end mounts that are on an angle. So the side forces don't drag the mount across the flat bottom plate as OE TR mount but rather drive the mount into angle bracket, absorbing forces rather than tearing mount loose. Ted Tony Drews wrote: > What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from > breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the > big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to > remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of > the mount too. What works and what doesn't? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tony Drews > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From malaboge at aol.com Sun Feb 14 13:23:47 2010 From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:23:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CC7BCABF3A6C40-5F34-1808E@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Can you say rubber baby buggy bumpers...me neither My trick is to drill two holes down thru the trans crossmember in line with the two trans to mount holes. Make the new holes a bit bigger than the mounting holes. Use treaded rod long enuf to go thru the trans, thru the mount and down thru the two new holes. Use two nuts on each rod to secure the trans to the mount. Use a nylock (with a big washer) so that it is just "snug" against the bottom of the crossmember. Since the holes in the crossmember are larger than the treaded rod, it will allow some "normal" movement to occur on the trans mount...but will arrest any excessive movement...including that dreaded abrupt stop when your car comes to an unexpected stop! tongue-tied in Nor Cal Nick -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 6:52 am Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews _______________________________________________ From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 14:02:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:02:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question In-Reply-To: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100214210236.90BA618764B@autox.team.net> We ran the TR-6 setup on a TR-4 for a while. I don't remember if we had the vacuum assist or not, I think we did. The problem we had was that it was hard to modulate the brakes. You could brake pretty hard and do it well, but when you get to the point of lockup it was too easy to lock a wheel and too hard to unlock the wheel. When we went to dual master cylinders without the power booster, I could brake later, harder and not lock front wheels. - Tony Drews At 09:54 AM 2/14/2010, Mark Vanlake wrote: >Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times >from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current >question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster >and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake >cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit >pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, >you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level >where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > >I >guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel >master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid >bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it >really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > >"Experience is that marvelous >thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gasket.works at gte.net Sun Feb 14 14:08:30 2010 From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:08:30 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" Message-ID: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I had a company make a rectangular piece of urethane of ?durometer (I can't recall). About three foot legnth minimum order. It was pliable yet tough and machinable. I dissasembled the std rear mount and used the upper and lower steel parts sandwiching the urethane between. Had to do a little bit of trickery to isolate the top from the bottom but, that was nearly 10 years ago. Not a peep out of it. M Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 14:13:47 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:13:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim .net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <20100214211410.46D47187656@autox.team.net> How did you adhere it to the upper / lower steel parts of the standard rear mount? - Tony At 03:08 PM 2/14/2010, gasket.works at gte.net wrote: >I had a company make a rectangular piece of urethane of ?durometer >(I can't recall). About three foot legnth minimum order. It was >pliable yet tough and machinable. I dissasembled the std rear mount >and used the upper and lower steel parts sandwiching the urethane >between. Had to do a little bit of trickery to isolate the top from >the bottom but, that was nearly 10 years ago. Not a peep out of it. > >M >Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sun Feb 14 14:59:45 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 07:59:45 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <699816E2-2D29-4CA0-BAD8-DC7D552E06B2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Thanks Bill, but I don't think you understand my questions I don't have a early trunnion. I have the later one that takes a bolt, not has a pin in it. As far as I remember , all the early ones used a built in pivot pin and they have zero caster. I have 1 brand new STANPART trunion and everything lines up fine on 1 side of the car. It has 3 degress caster machined into it. I got a replacment TR6 trunion and nothing lines up as its wrongly machined, close to 0 degrees caster. Changing to a jag top ball joint used to be a common racer trick and does not seem to unduly stress the trunnion. It is only 0.110" narrower so you put a spacer on 1 side to push it further back against the rear top wishbone, and get more caster. I was wanting to know if others are still doing this and if the extra caster was beneficial with modern street tyres No-one seems to be able to answer my question about the differences with the various steeering arms Thanks Terry From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 14 16:13:06 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:13:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question Message-ID: <954227.38611.qm@web111005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Thanks for all the suggestions. I would like to know where the twin master cylinder units can be purchased and what bore did you use? Is there a nice setup that has the balancer bar included, and compatible with the TR-6 mounts. Thanks again. Happy Mardi-Gras from New Orleans! ________________________________ From: Tony Drews To: Mark Vanlake ; FOT LIST Sent: Sun, February 14, 2010 3:02:13 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question We ran the TR-6 setup on a TR-4 for a while. I don't remember if we had the vacuum assist or not, I think we did. The problem we had was that it was hard to modulate the brakes. You could brake pretty hard and do it well, but when you get to the point of lockup it was too easy to lock a wheel and too hard to unlock the wheel. When we went to dual master cylinders without the power booster, I could brake later, harder and not lock front wheels. - Tony Drews At 09:54 AM 2/14/2010, Mark Vanlake wrote: >Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times >from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current >question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster >and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake >cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit >pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, >you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level >where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > >I >guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel >master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid >bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it >really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > >"Experience is that marvelous >thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 16:47:11 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:47:11 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> References: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Message-ID: <17F42D19-006C-4E1E-8954-020E63CF9549@bnj.com> The ones I got from Moss were listed as late TR4 and they had a pin and 3 degrees of camber. Take a look at the moss parts catalog for TR3/4. Part number part number 661-450 and -460 three degree caster right and left. The zero degree trunnion is the same for both sides. The proper upper arms are 661-050 and -060 and they use the through-bolted ball joint. these parts are all listed as late TR4 parts. The TR6 parts do show a different trunnion with a bolt, specified left and right hand which indicates caster built in, but the angle isn't specified. I assume 3 degrees. I know the jag ball joint trick, it adds about a degree, and it causes binding on the trunnion if you have a good one. Maybe a loose one would be OK. At one time I tried adjusting the upper arms (heim joints, not standard bits) differentially to do the same thing and got binding at less than a degree with old trunnions. The binding got better or worse as the suspension was bumped, so I decided it wasn't a great idea. I hate it when my steering doesn't work. Caster shouldn't have much effect on tires, especially small amounts. It induces a little bit of camber and toe at extremes of travel, but that has little to do with tire performance since we just don't spend much time there. As far as steering arms go, I can't answer your question. I had to have arms made to do what I wanted to do, which was to eliminate bump steer and manage camber gain. I consider the stock suspension parts to be raw materials. On Feb 14, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Enquiries wrote: > Thanks Bill, but I don't think you understand my questions > > I don't have a early trunnion. I have the later one that takes a bolt, not > has a pin in it. As far as I remember , all the early ones used a built in > pivot pin and they have zero caster. > > I have 1 brand new STANPART trunion and everything lines up fine on 1 side > of the car. It has 3 degress caster machined into it. > > I got a replacment TR6 trunion and nothing lines up as its wrongly machined, > close to 0 degrees caster. > > Changing to a jag top ball joint used to be a common racer trick and does > not seem to unduly stress the trunnion. It is only 0.110" narrower so you > put a spacer on 1 side to push it further back against the rear top > wishbone, and get more caster. I was wanting to know if others are still > doing this and if the extra caster was beneficial with modern street tyres > > No-one seems to be able to answer my question about the differences with the > various steeering arms > > Thanks > > Terry From timmurph at fastbytes.com Sun Feb 14 18:14:39 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 19:14:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000601caaddc$5d170300$17450900$@com> The mount that came with the car had been modified with a pivot pin between the upper and lower sections with some free play fore and aft also. At least it appears to have been modified, I don't this is the stock mount. This allows the engine/transmission to rotate a bit and allows for any slight fore and aft movement. The bottom portion that the pivot pin rides in sits on a rubber pad that is riveted, I think, to the large piece that bolts to the frame. Seems to work. I'll send some photos to you Tony. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 8:52 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 14 19:18:56 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:18:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" NOW speaking of alloy engine mounts In-Reply-To: <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> References: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CC7BFC5CA5FCE3-F04-14C6C@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com> We just ran production runs of TR3/4/TR6/SPITFIRE alloy engine plates. Check in for special FOT pricing...I'd like to move some inventory. Thanks! Joe -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 11:18 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" I use solid front mounts and a standard rear mount. I like Bob's pproach--I'll have to try that. Solid mounts make the car a little buzzier, ut I don't have to worry about breaking engine mounts. With Joe's aluminum ront plate the vibration is damped quite a bit. From invite+26a_t046 at facebookmail.com Sun Feb 14 19:29:22 2010 From: invite+26a_t046 at facebookmail.com (Kevin Lynch) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 18:29:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Message-ID: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> Hi Fot, I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. Thanks, Kevin To sign up for Facebook, follow the link below: http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=1618582156&k=ZYDT3VUZPXTFYEBGQA6YW5PQUSAC6TZB &r Already have an account? Add this email address to your account http://www.facebook.com/n/?merge_accounts.php&e=fot at autox.team.net&c=27b827d7 ad8928fcbbaef31b4330d242.fot at autox.team.net was invited to join Facebook by Kevin Lynch. If you do not wish to receive this type of email from Facebook in the future, please click on the link below to unsubscribe. http://www.facebook.com/o.php?k=74f522&u=1676703056&mid=1e2aeb0G63f07550G0G8 Facebook's offices are located at 1601 S. California Ave., Palo Alto, CA 94304. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sun Feb 14 19:57:07 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:57:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? In-Reply-To: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> References: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Message-ID: What's face book? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Sohl" To: "FOT" Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 11:13 AM Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? > Sorry to bomb the list, but I must not have the latest process correct to > unsubscribe. > > I sent an email with unsubscribe as the subject, but that was several days > ago and I am still getting emails. > > Thanks for any help. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From cwnfot at gmail.com Mon Feb 15 07:53:19 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:53:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> Message-ID: <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Well, I can't figure this out... What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Lynch Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM To: Fot Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Hi Fot, I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. Thanks, Kevin From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 15 08:15:38 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 07:15:38 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Message-ID: <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" To: "'Kevin Lynch'" ; "'Fot'" Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 15 08:19:40 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 08:19:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Message-ID: <4B79660C.7040607@microworks.net> Search for his email address klynch_6 at msn.com His profile picture is a white GT6 with a blue stripe Clark W. Nicholls wrote: > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 15 08:22:27 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 10:22:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Message-ID: <003c01caae52$af019bf0$0d04d3d0$@net> Me to Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Pendergrass Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 10:16 AM To: Clark W. Nicholls; 'Kevin Lynch'; 'Fot' Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" To: "'Kevin Lynch'" ; "'Fot'" Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From klynch_6 at msn.com Mon Feb 15 09:32:29 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:32:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Message-ID: Sorry guys... I think the F.Book mother board got a bad command from me or some internal faux pax occurred. You may disregard (if you like) with my apologies.. Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Pendergrass To: Clark W. Nicholls ; 'Kevin Lynch' ; 'Fot' Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 8:15 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" > To: "'Kevin Lynch'" >; "'Fot'" > Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Emoticon9.gif] From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Mon Feb 15 12:23:59 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:23:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs Message-ID: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> I have been using a set of 30 year old Ruggles scales for a while 8 seasons with good success and only have the scales at the track to verify were the car has been set. Its been close enough. Most times I have help but today I need to use the dumbbells for my weigh and am wondering what % of weight I would put at the peddles and then the thighs torso etc. I am also wondering about the cost range on new scales from $800.00 to 2800.00 Pad rigidity is important but the rest of the features seem to be about the computer doing the simple math memory and battery life. thanks rob From billb at bnj.com Mon Feb 15 13:52:40 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 10:52:40 -1000 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs In-Reply-To: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> References: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <8809EFCF-8B59-4EB4-AA4F-CBC56D2EA2F1@bnj.com> I kind of figure your center of mass is your ass, you don't apply much weight to your feet--if at all--while you're racing. So I always just put the weight in the seat. In fact most times if I was setting the car up by myself I stood in the seat and read the result. On Feb 15, 2010, at 9:23 AM, Rob wrote: > I have been using a set of 30 year old Ruggles scales for a while 8 seasons > with good success and only have the scales at the track to verify were the car > has been set. Its been close enough. > Most times I have help but today I need to use the dumbbells for my weigh > and am wondering what % of weight I would put at the peddles and then the > thighs torso etc. > I am also wondering about the cost range on new scales from $800.00 to > 2800.00 Pad rigidity is important but the rest of the features seem to be > about the computer doing the simple math memory and battery life. > thanks rob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 15 14:52:29 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:52:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Shifter Kart wreck Message-ID: <4B79C21D.4020203@microworks.net> One of the really fast guys that runs with Shifter Karts with us. This video is from yesterday (2/14/10). Loved his editing the song to the video. The lines: "Set my sites on You" and Got to have my way little Baby". Perfect. Can't win in the first corner but you can sure lose in the first corner. To appreciate the closing shot of the video remember that the camera is mounted on the chin of his helmet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Mon Feb 15 16:52:57 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 15:52:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] GREAT OPEN TRAILER ON E-BAY Message-ID: <561556.9370.qm@web111008.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180469984613&ss PageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Trying to upgrade to an enclosed unit. Interested FOT members have first shot and reduced price. Let me know if your interested or want to trade for a used enclsoed unit. Check it out , thanks. Mark From gp89 at charter.net Mon Feb 15 17:58:32 2010 From: gp89 at charter.net (Jeff Senty) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 16:58:32 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Shifter Kart wreck In-Reply-To: <4B79C21D.4020203@microworks.net> Message-ID: <20100215195832.ZWHUY.1424233.root@mp06> I race go karts at Sugar River Raceway in Broadhead Wi with my grandson. In the Honda Masters class I run in we have the same problem with the first two turns. It gets frustrating having the same people drive like that. You can see me get beat by the track owner on you tube if you search Sugar River Raceway Honda Masters. I'm the #3 blue Jeff Senty ---- "David W. Riddle" wrote: > One of the really fast guys that runs with Shifter Karts with us. This > video is from yesterday (2/14/10). Loved his editing the song to the > video. The lines: "Set my sites on You" and Got to have my way little > Baby". Perfect. Can't win in the first corner but you can sure lose in > the first corner. To appreciate the closing shot of the video remember > that the camera is mounted on the chin of his helmet. > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gp89 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Feb 15 19:08:15 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 21:08:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] RHD Steering rack and pinion Message-ID: <4B79FE0F.3040202@cfl.rr.com> I am searching for a RHD rack and pinion steering from a TR4 - TR6, a RHD TR3 dash board and a RHD throttle pedal assembly. Any leads much appreciated. thxx, Bob From fasttrs at yahoo.com Mon Feb 15 19:47:05 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:47:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias Message-ID: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXKwxxASpPY From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Mon Feb 15 19:52:47 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:52:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Barn find nfi Message-ID: Looks like this TR3 has been mothballed in the desert for a long time. If my old man were still around, this is the kind of tr3 we'd haul back to the Midwest for restoration. (If it's not rusty or full of bondo). http://bringatrailer.com/2010/02/15/bat-exclusive-complete-but-apart-1959-triumph-tr3/ ~Steve From adams910 at gmail.com Mon Feb 15 21:55:05 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 23:55:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs In-Reply-To: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> References: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <673993c51002152055g2f9824d7n51285f564e3ab185@mail.gmail.com> Rob, When you get help, sit in the car, record the corner weights, get out and add weight to match. You might have to put some in the footbox to get it right. If you're by yourself, 10 to 20lbs should do. In talking to a very set-up savvy friend, he says with the scales over $1000+, you're mostly getting additional display features. Some of the higher $ set-ups have scales with multiple load cells in them. Unless you're gunning for the Daytona 500, you won't need those. Hope this helps, Bob ps: It's easy to forget in the rush of things, but don't forget to account for fuel load and use your hot tire pressures. From deanesr at uncw.edu Tue Feb 16 05:46:49 2010 From: deanesr at uncw.edu (Deanes, Robert) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 07:46:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias In-Reply-To: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1BB45AE37908DF40B3C2FAB9665E094517B58A7B23@uncwexmb1.dcs.uncw.edu> Great video, this one is a keeper, it put a big smile on my face watching it first thing in the morning...very good Sam. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Munson Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 9:47 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXKwxxASpPY Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as deanesr at uncw.edu http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From koblinger at verizon.net Tue Feb 16 13:28:05 2010 From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 14:28:05 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 Message-ID: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> /EXeLsN: Permission denied From roadandtrack at bigpond.com Tue Feb 16 14:46:41 2010 From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 07:46:41 +1000 Subject: [Fot] RHD Steering rack and pinion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100216214639.BMIX1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> I should be able to help with that. Email me at work. roadandtrack at bigpond.com Terry From koblinger at verizon.net Tue Feb 16 20:08:30 2010 From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 19:08:30 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> References: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4B7B5DAE.4050809@verizon.net> Lets try this again. 1956 Paramount Ranch Road Races in color! http://thechicaneblog.com/2010/02/16/more-unseen-50s-scca-footage-paramount-ranch-1956/ Cheers, Kurt O. From GRMTim at aol.com Wed Feb 17 12:30:41 2010 From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 14:30:41 EST Subject: [Fot] TR 250 K at the Mitty Message-ID: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> Beloved FOT members, As this year's grand marshall at the Classic Motorsports Mitty is Peter Brock, we are trying to get the TR 250K to the Mitty. (Peter designed the car). When queried, I got this message from Tony, who manages the car: Bill Hart has said that he will bring the car provided I can find a second car to go in the trailer to offset Transport costs. So, If there is a car needing transport from the PNW to Atlanta and back, please let me know ASAP. Regards Tony Garmey 206 612 1782 Anyone want to come to the Mitty from the Northwest? We will offer some perks to make this happen. Tim Suddard Publisher; Classic Motorsports and Grassroots Motorsports magazines www.classicmotorsports.net www.grassrootsmotorsports.com Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723 From riverside at southslope.net Wed Feb 17 13:18:59 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 14:18:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 References: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> <4B7B5DAE.4050809@verizon.net> Message-ID: <008b01cab00e$7112ab00$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Kurt, Thanks for sharing the video. One of the best from that era. Anybody have and Greenwood or MAR video? art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kurt Oblinger" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 9:08 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 > Lets try this again. > > 1956 Paramount Ranch Road Races in color! > > http://thechicaneblog.com/2010/02/16/more-unseen-50s-scca-footage-paramount-ranch-1956/ > > Cheers, > Kurt O. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as riverside at southslope.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jfrymark at aol.com Wed Feb 17 13:23:52 2010 From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:23:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 Message-ID: Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark From kaskas at cox.net Wed Feb 17 13:53:24 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:53:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100217155324.LACQT.695543.imail@fed1rmwml36> I believe that is the race I was there, but not driving. Ken Miles and Bob Drake had a hell'va race and there was a big conflab at the S/F line after a black flag for Miles . Drake in a bob-tail Cooper and Miles in a 550 Porsche. I think was the time that a fellow was killed in a green Aston Martin on the COOL-OFF lap over in the back. ---- John Frymark wrote: ============= Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. -- Never be beaten by equipment From kaskas at cox.net Wed Feb 17 13:54:40 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:54:40 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> trust me, it was lot of fun. ---- John Frymark wrote: ============= Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. -- Never be beaten by equipment From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Feb 17 14:13:27 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:13:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR 250 K at the Mitty In-Reply-To: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> References: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> Message-ID: > Anyone want to come to the Mitty from the Northwest? We will offer some > perks to make this happen. Mark? From dave at microworks.net Wed Feb 17 21:09:37 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 21:09:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B7CBD81.8040203@microworks.net> I forwarded the link to the guy that runs the NASA Region here in AZ. Loved his comments. ---------------- Wow! My, how times have changed?!? * Spectators! * Who needs K-Walls and tire barriers when you're wearing white, right? * Why use an apex cone that will get knocked over when planting a tree in the same spot will double as some shade for the corner workers who stand in FRONT of it. Ha! On the flip side that looks like a TON of fun and very close racing and those cars really hauled ass too! John Frymark wrote: > Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be > getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? > > John Frymark From jason at multivintage.com Fri Feb 19 08:15:59 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 08:15:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> References: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> Message-ID: <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> I Go to whats left of the track every time I'm near the mountains of Malibu. Its still a fun place 50 years later. The track exists as a walking and biking trail and is kind of a crumbling time capsule of racing days gone by... When death loomed at every corner. There is a picnic grounds and an old western town for movie sets... a great day trip for the whole family. I think any FOT'er would enjoy it. Cheers Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6 On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:54:40 -0800, Kas Kastner wrote: > trust me, it was lot of fun. > ---- John Frymark wrote: > > ============= > Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be > getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? > > John Frymark > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spyderweb at uwalumni.com Fri Feb 19 09:18:01 2010 From: spyderweb at uwalumni.com (Jim Hill) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 10:18:01 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> References: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> Message-ID: <3afbecf41002190818y33001a71oe8f680bf5da2ba58@mail.gmail.com> For a view of the Paramount Ranch racetrack area today, see: http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/ParamountRanchToday.html Jim Hill ________________________________ Jason Ostrowski wrote: > I Go to whats left of the track every time I'm near the mountains of Malibu. Its still a fun place 50 years later. The track exists as a walking and biking trail and is kind of a crumbling time capsule of racing days gone by.... There is a picnic grounds and an old western town for movie sets... a great day trip for the whole family. I think any FOT'er would enjoy it. From andre at gt6.ca Fri Feb 19 10:40:12 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 12:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: <4362ae391002190940v2cd14871m9733999fffde09c0@mail.gmail.com> Quick question... I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car from time to time with a 2nd seat. Should I just pad the whole cage? I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the passenger side. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 11:19:15 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:19:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002190940v2cd14871m9733999fffde09c0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <137465203.4886471266603555269.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You really only need to pad where arms, legs/knees, head and shoulders would contact the bar. I use the SFI rated 1/2 round with adhesive backing. It's clean looking and low profile because of the density. On the subject of padding, most people overlook the foot wells. If you ever roll or cartwheel a car your legs & knees will find every single sharp or hard edge in the footwell. You can do permanent damage to a knee(s) with a single ungaurded edge or corner. I won't go into how I know that. jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andre Rousseau" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 10:40:12 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Quick question... I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car from time to time with a 2nd seat. Should I just pad the whole cage? I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the passenger side. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as toodamnfunky at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Feb 19 11:32:39 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:32:39 EST Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: In a message dated 02/19/2010 12:04:47 PM Central Standard Time, andre at gt6.ca writes: > Quick question... > > I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car > from time to time with a 2nd seat. > > Should I just pad the whole cage? > > I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I > keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the > passenger side. > Everytime I attend a racing event I hit my bald head on the door head to my enclosed trailer. Try as I might to avoid it, I know the hit is coming, and I am almost relieved when it finally comes. I have a permanent scar up there right now. So I think you should probably learn to live with your own head bumps getting in and out of the car. It comes with the turf. But these potential passengers...are they good friends? Bill (Damdinger) From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Feb 19 13:51:47 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:51:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque Message-ID: Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's Team competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Fri Feb 19 14:09:44 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:09:44 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I would suggest padding only the areas that your helmet or limbs could come into contact with in a crash. Use the SFI padding that feels hard but absorbs the forces rather than bouncing back. You want your passenger to be safe too so it would make sense to add a 5-pt harness for the passenger and make it Hans friendly in case of a head-on smack. ~Steve -----Original Message----- >From: Andre Rousseau >Sent: Feb 19, 2010 9:40 AM >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding > >Quick question... > >I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car >from time to time with a 2nd seat. > >Should I just pad the whole cage? > >I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I >keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the >passenger side. > >A. > >-- >Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca >'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ >'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ >Ottawa, ON, Canada >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as colordog.1 at earthlink.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 16:50:36 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:50:36 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> I love it.but I'm in the wrong state! Maybe we should have teams like that in all the state. Work on it Henry. Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 3:52 PM To: fot Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's Team competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Feb 19 17:27:29 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:27:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: How ironic Henry, There is a parking lot auto-x going on right now up on Coors Blvd. I was invited to run a friends TaG kart. Would have been my first autocross in about 27 years. Drove over there, looked at the sea of cones, thanked my friend for the offer, got in the car and came home. Hard to turn down a drive but autocross just ain't my thing. You going to SWMS at Arroyo Seco Henry? Walt? Anybody else looking for some SW springtime racing? March 6th/7th Arroyo Seco Raceway - near Deming New Mexico. Go to http://www.swms.org/next.html for details Greg "Lunker "Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Feb 19, 2010, at 1:51 PM, wrote: > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local > SCCA's Team > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. > The one > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry > Morrison > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 20:57:34 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 22:57:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 Message-ID: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> Can anyone tell me what happens to the toe changes on the trailing arm Does it toe in or out in bump. Thanks for the help rob From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Feb 19 23:36:27 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 00:36:27 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa. earthlink.net> References: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> I certainly 2nd what Steve said regarding which padding to go with. I originally had the semi-fireproof padding that the racer supply places sell - looks like a pool toy, kinda. When I was talking with the guy who fitted me for a HANS who KNOWS HIS SAFETY STUFF, he basically said that this stuff was useless. I needed the closed cell much harder padding. He had some with him and I made the switch immediately. It's more expensive, but not MUCH more expensive. I've mainly got it padded where my head would hit. I can't do good padding in the footwell area without interfering with my operation of the pedals unfortunately. I've got a used set of outdated G-Force belts that would make a nice 5 point setup for a passenger. They're yours for shipping cost. - Tony Drwes At 03:09 PM 2/19/2010, steve wrote: >I would suggest padding only the areas that your helmet or limbs >could come into contact with in a crash. Use the SFI padding that >feels hard but absorbs the forces rather than bouncing back. You >want your passenger to be safe too so it would make sense to add a >5-pt harness for the passenger and make it Hans friendly in case of >a head-on smack. > >~Steve > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Andre Rousseau > >Sent: Feb 19, 2010 9:40 AM > >To: fot at autox.team.net > >Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding > > > >Quick question... > > > >I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car > >from time to time with a 2nd seat. > > > >Should I just pad the whole cage? > > > >I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I > >keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the > >passenger side. > > > >A. > > > >-- > >Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca > >'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ > >'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ > >Ottawa, ON, Canada > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > >You are subscribed as colordog.1 at earthlink.net > > > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > >Fot at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 00:23:23 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 21:23:23 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> References: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0F14B0EE-46F9-4DE1-BBA5-3DB296DB51DD@bnj.com> I third that. Someone showed me a good demo. He gave me a stick about 3' long and a couple inches in diameter and said "hit your pad" I did, and felt a good solid whang from the roll bar. "Did you feel much effect from the padding?" Hmmm, not really. "Try this closed cell stuff". No whang. Just kind of a thud. Even I could tell that thud good, whang bad. And I'm pretty sure you name is D-r-e-w-s -- Bill Badcocz On Feb 19, 2010, at 8:36 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > I certainly 2nd what Steve said regarding which padding to go with. I originally had the semi-fireproof padding that the racer supply places sell - looks like a pool toy, kinda. When I was talking with the guy who fitted me for a HANS who KNOWS HIS SAFETY STUFF, he basically said that this stuff was useless. I needed the closed cell much harder padding. He had some with him and I made the switch immediately. It's more expensive, but not MUCH more expensive. I've mainly got it padded where my head would hit. I can't do good padding in the footwell area without interfering with my operation of the pedals unfortunately. > > I've got a used set of outdated G-Force belts that would make a nice 5 point setup for a passenger. They're yours for shipping cost. > > - Tony Drwes From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Feb 20 09:29:33 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:29:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Message-ID: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> did anybody notice that race car spelled backwards is still race car jim g From spitlist at cox.net Sat Feb 20 09:59:09 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:59:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> References: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> Message-ID: Yes, but did you know that Race Car spelled upside down is "totaled"? Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gray Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 9:30 AM To: Friends of triumph Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards did anybody notice that race car spelled backwards is still race car jim g From BillDentin at aol.com Sat Feb 20 10:15:16 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 12:15:16 EST Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Message-ID: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > did anybody notice that race > car spelled backwards is still > race car > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like that. There's a bunch of them. Bill Dentinger From triosan at gmail.com Sat Feb 20 11:14:34 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 10:14:34 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> Bill, you are just too damn funny! The drones do seem to be going backwards. chuck On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 9:15 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, > toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > > >> did anybody notice that race >> car spelled backwards is still >> race car >> > > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the > same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like > that. > > There's a bunch of them. > > Bill Dentinger > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 12:07:02 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:07:02 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <246C25C7-403E-4984-BF84-9A4E87C29440@bnj.com> palindromes. One word. Like A man, a plan, a canal--Panama. The longest one yet generated is 17,826 words, but it's nonsense. On Feb 20, 2010, at 7:15 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, > toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > > >> did anybody notice that race >> car spelled backwards is still >> race car >> > > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the > same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like > that. > > There's a bunch of them. > > Bill Dentinger > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 12:08:33 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:08:33 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <932803E5-415C-4638-8E20-5C2F349029B2@bnj.com> I should have read your response first, Billy's funny went right over my too literal head. On Feb 20, 2010, at 8:14 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > Bill, you are just too damn funny! > The drones do seem to be going backwards. > chuck > > On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 9:15 AM, wrote: >> In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, >> toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: >> >> >>> did anybody notice that race >>> car spelled backwards is still >>> race car >>> >> >> I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the >> same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like >> that. >> >> There's a bunch of them. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> >> > > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Feb 20 12:15:54 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 12:15:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> References: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> Message-ID: <4B8034EA.9020405@bradakis.com> Actually way back in the early days of Team.Net, when there were only two lists - autox and british-cars, Akkana Peck had that quip in her email signature line. And I don't know if any of you are familiar with Riders in the Sky and their radio show Riders Radio Theater, but they once had a skit about a gunslinger named Palindrome. Why, what brought you to town, Mr. Palindrome? A Toyota. It was pretty humorous. mjb. From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 20 13:01:23 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 15:01:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] "Best of Britain" Simeone Foundation Museum Message-ID: <673993c51002201201u17ecfad8n93b86a8114b9ce7e@mail.gmail.com> Just putting in a little plug for this.. Dick Stockton's Triumph TR4 is on display at the Simeone Foundation Museum as part of the "Best of Britain" display running from today, Feb. 20th until March 14th. Some other notable cars as part of the exhibit include a Sprite "Sebring Coupes, Sebring Twin-Cam MGA, several rare examples of cars I've never heard of, and stunningly restored, award winning examples of more common British cars. http://www.simeonefoundation.org/ Bob Adams From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 20 18:32:03 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 20:32:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> Art comes in many forms Bill - well done... Cheers, M From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Feb 20 18:56:59 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 18:56:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <33A6006664074365A1A3C22B667ED483@hal9000> way to go Bill -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team .net] On Behalf Of Mark Eginton Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 6:32 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Art comes in many forms Bill - well done... Cheers, M ______________________________ _________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htm l Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as toodamnfunky at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 21 02:34:23 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 10:34:23 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 In-Reply-To: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> References: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <000801cab2d9$0eea1670$2cbe4350$@com> The normal rule says that at the rear the wheel should go "toe in" on bumps, otherwise the car would go into drifting. Other way round at the front. On a bump it should go slightly "toe out". Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rob Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Februar 2010 04:58 An: FOT Betreff: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 Can anyone tell me what happens to the toe changes on the trailing arm Does it toe in or out in bump. Thanks for the help rob Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Feb 21 12:05:47 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:05:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: As I try to get my kids to carry on my interest in British Cars, the only thing my wife will let me do with them is go Autocrossing until they're 18 when I can let them go destroy all my otherr machinery. I've done a lot of Autocrossing and it seems to have a point, like winning a jacket at the end of the year and they might like that. Again it is likely that the kids will run off with their girlfriends as I have again failed in getting their priorities on the right track. The Arroyo Seco event conflicts with the annual Ft. Lewis College High School Jazz Band Competition which I have recently become quite a fan of lately. But I see my interest dropping off after next year's event. Sharon is trying to get me into the May event and she may have some sucess there. After that it's probably High Plains in May, if I'm not too busy Autocrossing. Cheers Henry > CC: fot at autox.team.net > From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:27:29 -0700 > To: dos_gusanos at msn.com > > How ironic Henry, > There is a parking lot auto-x going on right now up on Coors Blvd. I > was invited to run a friends TaG kart. Would have been my first > autocross in about 27 years. Drove over there, looked at the sea of > cones, thanked my friend for the offer, got in the car and came home. > Hard to turn down a drive but autocross just ain't my thing. > You going to SWMS at Arroyo Seco Henry? Walt? Anybody else looking > for some SW springtime racing? March 6th/7th Arroyo Seco Raceway - > near Deming New Mexico. > Go to http://www.swms.org/next.html for details > > Greg "Lunker "Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > > > > On Feb 19, 2010, at 1:51 PM, > wrote: > > > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local > > SCCA's Team > > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. > > The one > > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry > > Morrison > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > > You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Fot at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Feb 21 12:07:44 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:07:44 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> References: , <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> Message-ID: Yes, most people are in the wrong state for this one, but hey, ya gotta put it out there.....I got a Mini Driver to join the team so I'm up to a possible 4 cars.................Henry > From: wensley_tr at comcast.net > To: dos_gusanos at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:50:36 -0500 > > I love it.but I'm in the wrong state! > Maybe we should have teams like that in all the state. > Work on it Henry. > Craig > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com > Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 3:52 PM > To: fot > Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's > Team > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Sun Feb 21 19:05:18 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 02:05:18 GMT Subject: [Fot] Mordy Dunst Message-ID: <20100221.210518.15110.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> Sorry to bomb the list. Mordy, would you please contact me off of the list. Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=WE2rRSnOINlaXf57BhojmQAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From macdonaldp at rogers.com Mon Feb 22 08:24:16 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 10:24:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb Message-ID: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Andre Other places to take the race car. http://www.hillclimb.org/ Paul From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Feb 22 09:21:37 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 11:21:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: On Mon, 22 Feb 2010, Paul MacDonald wrote: > Andre > > > > Other places to take the race car. > > > > http://www.hillclimb.org/ You ave no idea how hillarious this is for me (and close to home). My first "almost" step into racing was hillclimbs. Long story, but I got to drive an HP bugeye sprite in a funkhana and the guy really worked me to buy the car. I WANTED THAT CAR. Fate stepped in and the car was wrecked about 5 months later at Mt. Ascutney. The driver was okay, but dissapeared from any car events after that (SCCA / various Brit car stuff). And he had been active in both. At any rate, once in a blue moon I look at NEHA and usually decide that if I'm going to do events like that, I'll drag my car all the way to PA do run with the PA hillclimb folks. The hillclimbs in New England are, for lack of a better term - SCARY. The roads are nasty (for the most part) and NARROW. With big rocks and trees right on the edge of the road. If you can't afford to totally write off your car, I would not approach NEHA hillclimbs at anywhere near 10/10ths. Even 7/10ths would be hair-raising at best. Of course you can't get good without taking risks... Sprongel did the Mount Washington Auto Road in under 7 minutes. If you miss on that one, there's 1000 foot drop-offs. Of course they don't run there anymore, but that sort of risk is pretty much standard for NEHA. Look at any of the in-car vidZ posted on the web site. NER/SCCA stopped running hillclimbs in the region a LONG time ago because of the safety / risk aspects. > Paul regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Feb 22 10:40:19 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:40:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, Message-ID: HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate to see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ From andre at gt6.ca Mon Feb 22 11:05:42 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 13:05:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in Message-ID: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g TR7 tagged! A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From bownes at seiri.com Mon Feb 22 11:35:40 2010 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 13:35:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: The thing that kept me out of hillclimbs was the need for the same gear as 'real' racing without the wheel to wheel aspect PLUS the potential for driving off of or into a cliff. On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 12:40 PM, marty sukey wrote: > HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate > to > see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) > > > > Marty > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bownes at web9.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 12:33:25 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:33:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, Message-ID: <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> His wife will take the car away from him Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 12:40 PM To: Bob Lang; macdonaldp at rogers.com Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Hill Climb HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate to see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 12:42:38 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:42:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> References: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00f101cab3f7$30df3930$929dab90$@net> Looks like NASCAR training grounds Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andre Rousseau Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 1:06 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g TR7 tagged! A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rocky at spitfire4.com Mon Feb 22 16:44:55 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 17:44:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> <33A6006664074365A1A3C22B667ED483@hal9000> Message-ID: Napoleon's exile: "Able was I ere I saw Elba." Cool because each individual word is a reverse of its other. --Rockcor ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gray" To: "'Mark Eginton'" ; Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 7:56 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards > way to go Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: > fot-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team > .net] On Behalf Of Mark > Eginton > Sent: Saturday, February 20, > 2010 6:32 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car > spelled backwards > > Art comes in many forms Bill - > well done... > > Cheers, > > M > ______________________________ > _________________ > > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.htm > l > > Suggested annual donation > $12.96 > > You are subscribed as > toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net > consulting - Unix software > specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rocky at spitfire4.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From harmug at us.ibm.com Mon Feb 22 17:34:49 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:34:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 22 18:23:57 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:23:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> References: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B832E2D.60504@microworks.net> I'm going to use that bit of video in my HPDE class. One of the axioms that I have students repeat is "If he spins, go where he's been". Andre Rousseau wrote: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g > > TR7 tagged! > > A. From chasgee at aol.com Mon Feb 22 18:36:04 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:36:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Message-ID: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> FOT, Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? Thanks, Chuck Gee From mark at bradakis.com Mon Feb 22 19:15:03 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:15:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B833A27.9090907@bradakis.com> Personally I'd prefer a perennial, not one that has to be replanted every season. Oh. Never mind. mjb. From triosan at gmail.com Mon Feb 22 19:29:58 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:29:58 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d1002221829ha43380dx8f71f34597ae5f5e@mail.gmail.com> I bought one from Herman Van Den Akker. He has a special mount for the McLoad bearing he supplied. You can see pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/AnnularThrowOutBearingForTRs# His website is at: http://www.hvdaconversions.com/ Chuck PS --If you cannot see the pictures let me know off list and I will send them. On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 5:36 PM, wrote: > FOT, > > Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 > transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? > > Thanks, > > Chuck Gee > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From norlinengineering at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 19:58:06 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:58:06 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <281584CC1F244A95BA5F51269A81E46D@TOSHIBALAPTOP> George I've been running one with a 20 psi switch. The switch is available from NAPA or Pegasus. I'm running a simple light I picked up at a local parts store, but I'd like to switch it out for an LED light. I know the thing works. In the 70's I had one on my Formula Ford. I had an oil pump gear retaining pin shear at 6000 rpm near the end of the main straight. The light came on and I hit the kill switch. When I disassembled the engine to check bearings and figure out what happened, everything was fine except for the broken pin. Substituted part of a 16 penny nail and made the race the next day. The key is to locate the light directly in your line of vision. Jim Norlin -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Harmuth Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:35 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as norlinengineering at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:21:56 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:21:56 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: <281584CC1F244A95BA5F51269A81E46D@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: <68D9F9EC74D74477B993960D728152A3@Pendys> Jim, i picked up a side marker LED light at napa to replace the incandesent one and even on a sunny bright day you cannot miss it if it were to come on, get the one that has four bulbs........MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norlin Engineering" To: "'George Harmuth'" ; Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 6:58 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > George > > I've been running one with a 20 psi switch. The switch is available from > NAPA or Pegasus. I'm running a simple light I picked up at a local parts > store, but I'd like to switch it out for an LED light. > > I know the thing works. In the 70's I had one on my Formula Ford. I had > an > oil pump gear retaining pin shear at 6000 rpm near the end of the main > straight. The light came on and I hit the kill switch. When I > disassembled > the engine to check bearings and figure out what happened, everything was > fine except for the broken pin. Substituted part of a 16 penny nail and > made the race the next day. > > The key is to locate the light directly in your line of vision. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of George Harmuth > Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:35 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > > > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any > specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system > should > be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that > too? > > thanks > mike > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as norlinengineering at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Feb 22 20:39:07 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 03:39:07 GMT Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? Message-ID: <20100222.223907.11768.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com> I use a 20 or 30 psi switch - 1/8 pipe thread with a red 12 volt light on the dash. On my TR3, I tapped one of the oil galley bolts to accept the 1/8 NPT switch. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: George Harmuth To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:34:49 -0500 I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Small Business Tools Free info for small business owners. Click here to find great products geared for your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=Rk6Fxy_lTq8WBIfMyPJNTgAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARMQAAAAA= From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:44:17 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:44:17 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> <4B833A27.9090907@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <957AA7672126456EB8EF7162FD88BCBC@Pendys> I second that...............MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 6:15 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder > Personally I'd prefer a perennial, not one that has to be replanted > every season. > > > Oh. Never mind. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Feb 22 20:48:23 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 03:48:23 GMT Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Message-ID: <20100222.224823.11768.2@webmail04.dca.untd.com> I am using the one from Howe racing, with a Tilton clutch. Since I am using a T5 tranny with my own bell housing the hydraulic throw-out bearing mounts on studs on where the original TR tranny nose bolts up. I had to reduce the diameter of the T5's nose for the bearing to fit over the nose. I ran braided hose to it, one thru a throw-out bearing shaft hole and the other thru a new hole that I bored in the case. The top hose has the bleeder. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: chasgee at aol.com To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:36:04 -0500 FOT, Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? Thanks, Chuck Gee Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:53:00 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:53:00 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: Message-ID: <2A80D0A3BDD94A929DA4ABB1C7CE443C@Pendys> Some of the switches are adj. from 5lb to 50lb, as far as the temp warning goes i stick with the mech. gauge only, an electrician i am, but i just am not keen on electric gauges.............MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Harmuth" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:34 PM Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. > Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what > PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a > warning light for that too? > > thanks > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jmwagner at greenheart.com Mon Feb 22 21:32:02 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:32:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] =?iso-8859-1?q?British_Nomex=AE_Flight_Coveralls?= Message-ID: <4B835A42.2030602@greenheart.com> I thought this might be of interest to some of you.... Nomex... British.... Cheap outfit for pit crew or drivers? --Justin British Nomex. Flight Coveralls! http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=610797 From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Mon Feb 22 23:09:34 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 01:09:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: Message-ID: <004201cab44e$c5c3c230$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> It's pretty easy to run the ignition through the low pressure switch too. It will disable the ignition automatically if the pressure drops, besides turning on the light. Also wire the fuel pump through it; it will disable the pump if something dastardly happens (crash rollover, etc.) You have to run an over ride switch to start the engine though; that's easily done. The LED side marker lights are very bright and use very little current. And come in a couple different colors. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Harmuth" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 7:34 PM Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. > Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what > PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a > warning light for that too? > > thanks > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Feb 23 00:58:54 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:58:54 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01cab45e$0dd83880$2988a980$@com> I have a 22 psi sensor attached to the main oil gallery. I put a bright 12V LED light into the ignition light on the dash and attached it to the sensor. So if the pressure drops below 22 psi the ignition light cheers up. The reason for the ignition light version is that it doesn't disturb the dash design. After a race when the engine is quite hot the red light is flashing a little at idle speed. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von George Harmuth Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Februar 2010 01:35 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Feb 23 06:24:45 2010 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 07:24:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Oil Pick Up Solution Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A6BAE7A@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local> Morning Members, Ran with VDCA @ Atlanta this past weekend. If you've never run with them you had better get on the schedule as it the best vintage group around!! Lots of fun and lots of track time. Anyway back to my query for you all. On the 2nd practice session I thought I noticed the oil pressure drop suddenly to 20 or so PSI. Started watching it and saw it float from 60 to 40 down to 20 back to 60 etc etc. Got to the pits ASAP. We installed a test gauge and had 0 PSI. tried a lot of stuff but eventually dropped the pan and yes you guesses it the pick up had split at the pipe threads where the jam nut flat side is facing the bottom of the oil pan. So got lucky and found some folks with lots of tools and got the broken threads out of the aluminum housing and had enough threads to reinstall it. VOILA all of the sudden I had 80 PSI at speed vs.. the original 60 PSI. So I am guessing it's been cracked and sucking some air for a while now. Then this weekend it finally opened up enough to drop pressure and give ole dummy me enough time to see it happen and get in the pits to save my almost new engine. This pick up had been extended approx 2 inches as I have a stock pan that has been deepened and baffled. Again I digress what is the best solution to make a new pick up out of that isn't so thin that it can crack at the threads again. I like working on these old piles of parts, but NOT at the track. What pan do a lot of you racers run, is a deep sump even necessary?? I had it and just reused it etc. Thanks for any help you have!! Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 411 Allied Drive Nashville, TN 37211 866-455-7788 Phone 615-834-9923 Fax www.dieselperformanceparts.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 12:24:50 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 14:24:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP Message-ID: <8CC82D500EF78BE-2340-2717@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Friends of Triumph Listers: heartlandvintageracing.com now has entry forms posted, as well as the schedule. Three days of practice, qualifying, races, plus the Kastner Cup. FRIDAY-SATURDAY- SUNDAY Thursday is optional TEST & TUNE. Submit now...........why not? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------ If you have ANYTHING to VEND, as long as it is not illegal or immoral, spaces are available. That form is available as well........ $100 will get you 10 x 20 BOOTH. There should be a large GATE due to a huge number car club folks in attendance. KANSAS CITY-OMAHA-MINNEAPOLIS-DES MOINES-OKLAHOMA CITY-DALLAS.....CLUBS! O'REILLEY AUTOPARTS TOPEKA HEARTLAND PARK HVR................... all behind the sucessful execution of this event. At the cost of a grassroots event.... Joe A From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Feb 23 14:00:11 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:00:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Message-ID: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we don't get rear disc brakes etc. jg From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 14:33:14 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:33:14 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility In-Reply-To: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by case basis. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we on't get rear disc brakes etc. jg Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 23 19:42:22 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:42:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Message-ID: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Tue Feb 23 20:05:43 2010 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:05:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP In-Reply-To: <8CC82D500EF78BE-2340-2717@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <650251.85850.qm@web111410.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Joe, When I go to the Heartland Park website and click on "racing registration", the file will not open up. It is like nothing is there. Adobe pops up a box with a "?" in it and a box to check okay. Is anyone else having this problem? Ken Suhre --- On Tue, 2/23/10, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP > To: fot at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, February 23, 2010, 1:24 PM > Friends of Triumph Listers: > > heartlandvintageracing.com now > has entry forms posted, as well as the > schedule. > > Three days of practice, qualifying, races, plus the Kastner > Cup. > FRIDAY-SATURDAY- SUNDAY > > Thursday is optional TEST & TUNE. > > Submit now...........why not? > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------ > > If you have ANYTHING to VEND, as long as it is not illegal > or immoral, spaces > are available. > > That form is available as well........ > > $100 will get you 10 x 20 BOOTH. > > There should be a large GATE due to a huge number car club > folks in > attendance. > > KANSAS CITY-OMAHA-MINNEAPOLIS-DES MOINES-OKLAHOMA > CITY-DALLAS.....CLUBS! > > O'REILLEY AUTOPARTS TOPEKA > HEARTLAND PARK HVR................... all > behind the sucessful execution of this event. > > At the cost of a grassroots event.... > > Joe A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kenandtweety at yahoo.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software > specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 20:06:17 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:06:17 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> I could have gone all day without seeing that. Urk. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > 140385679995 From dave at microworks.net Tue Feb 23 20:27:10 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:27:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> The line in the description says it all "Triumph purists think it looks like the Bride of Frankenstein, or "something Eddie Munster would drive." Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spitlist at cox.net Tue Feb 23 20:29:47 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:29:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <95A6DFC1336A4E3B9455C6950FA3609F@joepentiumnew> One word comes to mind: Abomination! Joe -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:42 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 20:35:01 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:35:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ANOTHER HEARTLAND HEADS UP Message-ID: <8CC83197AF12221-6E3C-4060@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> FOT: Please note that each driver entrant gets FOUR CREW PASSES. I've never seen that before. DAILY PASSES are only $10 for General Admission and $25 for the weekend....that's a lot of value. I think you will find Hotel RATES very affordable, too....RAMADA INN is the host hotel and HVR HEADQUARTERS. Please also be advised that the last recipient of the BILL AMES MEMORIAL plaque, LARRY YOUNG, has selected THE HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY and the HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX as the venue for the next presentation. This may occur with the presentation of the Kastner Cup. Joe From herald948 at aol.com Tue Feb 23 20:38:29 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:38:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 T-Birds. ;) This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup currently on eBay UK: 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From herald948 at aol.com Tue Feb 23 20:38:33 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:38:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC8319F97A47A4-36C0-255B@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 T-Birds. ;) This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup currently on eBay UK: 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From timmurph at fastbytes.com Tue Feb 23 20:44:37 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:44:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> Message-ID: <000501cab503$b0c74860$1255d920$@com> I could have made it through the rest of the year:) Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 9:06 PM To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: Re: [Fot] Gee, nice car I could have gone all day without seeing that. Urk. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > 140385679995 Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 21:00:52 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:00:52 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> Message-ID: If Eddie munster were a tasteless knucklehead--I wouldn't slur Eddie that way. On Feb 23, 2010, at 5:27 PM, David W. Riddle wrote: > The line in the description says it all > > "Triumph purists think it looks like the Bride of Frankenstein, or "something Eddie Munster would drive." > > Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> Check out Ebay item 140385679995 >> >> I don't think I'll be bidding. >> >> mjb. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 21:03:14 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:03:14 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: There is an XKE that shows up at some of the brit car shows that makes me gag. Huge amount of effort went into making it so tasteless. a custom Jag shows up at the Wine Country as well. I certainly would never tell someone what they should do with their property, but I really don't want to look at 'em. On Feb 23, 2010, at 5:38 PM, Andrew Mace wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark J Bradakis > > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with > its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did > free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision > protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 > T-Birds. ;) > This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been > "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately > joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, > but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... > Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup > currently on eBay UK: > 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph > Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald > Database: http://triumph-herald.us > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Feb 23 21:15:49 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:15:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. There has been lot of interesting discussion about that thing on the 6-Pack Forum. It seems that the current owner took offense to some of the comments and ended up being banned. Amazing that anyone would build that, let alone find someone to buy it. The guy who bought it is the current eBay seller. Irv From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Feb 23 21:39:10 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:39:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com>, <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: How 'bout how they moved the bubble to the center of the hood. Just a lot going on there if you really look at the photos.......Henry Morrison From m-syork at comcast.net Tue Feb 23 22:34:02 2010 From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:34:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car Message-ID: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> Hey after watching the You Tube thread I got a great idea, lets all chip in a quarter and buy the thing to race at next years 24 hours of Lemons! All it needs is a big bull's eye painted on the rear of the thing Mark Wait a minute, there's a $500 max, change that to 17.5 cents each From brinke at cebridge.net Tue Feb 23 19:05:46 2010 From: brinke at cebridge.net (Bill Rinke) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:05:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: A little clarification here Joe. Yes, the basic rules are based on the CVAR rules but a number of "exceptions" have been listed that allows more freedom than what the basic CVAR rules allow. We absolutely intend to maintain the attitude of Vintage Racing but we do not want our first event to be so tight that no one can make their car meet the rules. I doubt that there are any Kastner Cup cars that would not now comply with the rules utilizing the "exceptions". The Cup cars will run within the normal vintage groups during practice, qualifying and all of the races leading up to the Kastner Cup Race. They will then all run as group 5 in the Kastner Cup Race. I also have the prerogative to move a car to a different class or group. Let's say that there is a TR-4 in group 7 DP and he is running away from everyone very dramatically. I will move that car to a different class or group for the regular group races. That car would then run in group 5 for the Kastner Cup Race. Our rules are posted on the website and I will be happy to try to field any questions regarding them. When a driver completes the Race Entry form he should also complete the Technical Declaration form which is also on the website. Hope this helps a bit, Bill bill at heartlandvintageracing.com ----- Original Message ----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; brinke at cebridge.net Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:33 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by case basis. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we don't get rear disc brakes etc. jg Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2705 - Release Date: 02/23/10 01:34:00 From billb at bnj.com Wed Feb 24 00:24:43 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:24:43 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility In-Reply-To: References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Good clarification but it could use some added certainty. I'm not hauling a car from Oregon to Kansas to be considered on a "case by case" basis. I understand that no sanctioning body wants to say that "anything goes". Last year we were able to tell the FOT racers that they would be able to race, but they would be counseled on the correctness of any modifications to their car, and would be expected to make the required corrections next time. It's really not an issue, we didn't have any cars that were that far off the mark, though there's a few when someone comes a long way they don't want surprises. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:05 PM, Bill Rinke wrote: > A little clarification here Joe. > > Yes, the basic rules are based on the CVAR rules but a number of "exceptions" > have been listed that allows more freedom than what the basic CVAR rules > allow. We absolutely intend to maintain the attitude of Vintage Racing but we > do not want our first event to be so tight that no one can make their car meet > the rules. I doubt that there are any Kastner Cup cars that would not now > comply with the rules utilizing the "exceptions". The Cup cars will run > within the normal vintage groups during practice, qualifying and all of the > races leading up to the Kastner Cup Race. They will then all run as group 5 > in the Kastner Cup Race. > > I also have the prerogative to move a car to a different class or group. > Let's say that there is a TR-4 in group 7 DP and he is running away from > everyone very dramatically. I will move that car to a different class or > group for the regular group races. That car would then run in group 5 for the > Kastner Cup Race. Our rules are posted on the website and I will be happy to > try to field any questions regarding them. > > When a driver completes the Race Entry form he should also complete the > Technical Declaration form which is also on the website. > > Hope this helps a bit, > > Bill > bill at heartlandvintageracing.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; brinke at cebridge.net > Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:33 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility > > > as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. > > For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by > case basis. > > Joe A > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net > To: fot > Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm > Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility > > > Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & > we > don't get rear disc brakes etc. > > jg > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2705 - Release Date: 02/23/10 > 01:34:00 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 58tr3a at videotron.ca Wed Feb 24 03:23:18 2010 From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 05:23:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?iso-8859-1?q?British_Nomex=AE_Flight_Coveralls?= References: <4B835A42.2030602@greenheart.com> Message-ID: These British Coveralls for Bobsled Racing look they should be cheaper. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS7dsdVMh0s&NR=1 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 11:32 PM Subject: [Fot] British Nomex. Flight Coveralls >I thought this might be of interest to some of you.... Nomex... > British.... Cheap outfit for pit crew or drivers? --Justin > > > British Nomex. Flight Coveralls! > > http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=610797 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 58tr3a at videotron.ca > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From John.Reed at wilson.com Wed Feb 24 06:03:56 2010 From: John.Reed at wilson.com (John Reed) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:03:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Poor car. On 2/23/10 8:42 PM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as john.reed at wilson.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Regards, John Reed Global Staff Photographer Creative Services Wilson Sporting Goods Co. 8750 W Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago, Illinois 60631, USA Tel. + 1.773.714.6895, fax +1.773.714.4585 John.Reed at wilson.com www.wilson.com www.amersports.com This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this e-mail is strictly forbidden. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Wed Feb 24 07:00:50 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:00:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com>, , <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com>, Message-ID: OMG!!! Here's the Bad news for future generations. My Kids both think the car is cool especially the fact it has a 302. I am sending the whole lot into the garage for re-education after a lengthy denunciation meeting perhaps a couple hours of reading the shop manual.....................Cheers Henry Morrison From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Feb 24 12:56:25 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:56:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Chicago swap meet this week-end Message-ID: <4B858469.4000607@bright.net> Sorry to be so late and bomb the lists. We will be in our usual spot at the Chicago DuPage county fair grounds swap meet. If you need anything from us, we will do our best to bring it along. There are 2 buildings with vendors. We are located in the building on your left as you come in the main entrance. The first building on the left has a toy show. Our display is at the front end of the center aisle right where you come into the building. Thsi has been our usual spot for the past several years. Pleas stop by and say hello. Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From rikrock at aol.com Wed Feb 24 14:22:54 2010 From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:22:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> Message-ID: <8CC83AEA9814225-4EDC-1FAD@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> Amici, This is my annual invitation to all of you to come run a PHA hillclimb or two this year. Check out www.pahillclimb.org for some info on the schedule and the hills themselves. It's not wheel to wheel racing, I know, but a run up the hill is a VERY intense experience! Rich Rock, PHA VP, Duryea Hillclimb Chairman From robertten1 at aol.com Wed Feb 24 16:13:01 2010 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:13:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC83BE0B9D8A1D-6E70-21E1@webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com> Whoa !! check that interior. Somethin out of MTV's Pimp My Ride . Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis To: 'Friends of Triumph' Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 9:42 pm Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gaf3 at charter.net Wed Feb 24 16:31:48 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> Wow No wonder there are no bids it looks like the Munsters owned it. Glenn Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Feb 24 17:12:08 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 17:12:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> Message-ID: <4B85C058.2010904@dfn.com> Glenn Franco wrote: > Wow > No wonder there are no bids it looks like the Munsters owned it. He might have had a chance to sell it if he'd finished it off properly. Say, added some spinner hubcaps.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Wed Feb 24 17:43:43 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:43:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car In-Reply-To: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> References: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> Message-ID: <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> The owner would have to come way down on his price for it to be eligible for the 24 hours de lemons. I think one of the "kids" here at Cornell built a Saab for the 24hours - he said there is a $500 limit acquiring and preparing the car not counting safety equipment. You have to have some hair to go on that track with those guys in anything less than a '54 buick. It wouldn't be me out there in that TR4 with $500 peers... The only thing to be said about the TR4 is imagine what could have been accomplished if all that effort and money had been spent better. Of course people in the Haight love it - its the Haight... From dave at microworks.net Wed Feb 24 19:04:59 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:04:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car In-Reply-To: <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> References: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B85DACB.6050502@microworks.net> The purchase of the car can be for more then $500 which you can offset by having the reciepts showing you sold items off the car (interior, A/C compressor, etc...) See rule 4.7 http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/rules/ * 4.7: Scavenger Sales:* If you sell pieces off of your car, the money that comes back in can be used to offset the initial purchase price. Just be prepared to convince some exceedingly skeptical judges of the validity of all those transactions. Two friends ran the race down here in AZ last month with different teams and said it was a blast. Something they did not know. If you dropped two wheels off track you got BF. You then had to paint a small cone black and secure it to the roof or your car. Four wheels off and you had to use a large cone. They did not know that and had to scamble to find a cone, paint, drill and bolts to secure the cones. I'm talking to some guys down here to see about building (or should I say gutting) a car to run next year. 3 Series BMW get penalized out of the gate. One of my friends saw his team docked 57 laps before the race started. Thinking about maybe a Honda, although the 3 Series is bulletproof. The car that won the race down here was a Miata. It did 621 laps whereas the the two cars on the podium both did 600. Mark Eginton wrote: > The owner would have to come way down on his price for it to be > eligible for the 24 hours de lemons. I think one of the "kids" here at > Cornell built a Saab for the 24hours - he said there is a $500 limit > acquiring and preparing the car not counting safety equipment. You > have to have some hair to go on that track with those guys in anything > less than a '54 buick. It wouldn't be me out there in that TR4 with > $500 peers... > > The only thing to be said about the TR4 is imagine what could have > been accomplished if all that effort and money had been spent better. > Of course people in the Haight love it - its the Haight... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Feb 24 20:15:54 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 22:15:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Saying of the day Message-ID: Saw this on a BMW forum from someone that races a Z3M Coupe. Racing... because golf, football, and baseball only require one ball. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Feb 25 07:14:48 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 07:14:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st Class to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. Sumner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 Henry, That is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that Dr. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as I found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly Airman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I have the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, that Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, with an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing my ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the Roswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. Did you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this event and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. It is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is had for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I will copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right now. My address is: Robert Johns Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Thu Feb 25 07:57:25 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 9:57:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs Message-ID: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> What is the general consensus on leaf springs such as re-arching, or adding leafs, or removing leafs or leaving as is? The car was originally setup with the stock leaf springs and axle spacers to lower it slightly. thxx, Bob From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Feb 25 07:58:19 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 09:58:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Now Robert Johns at Heartland Park In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <8CC84421A65C226-38E8-DE2D@webmail-d090.sysops.aol.com> Henry....and all, Bob is going to try to join us at Heartland Vintage Grand Prix this August as he did at Watkins Glen. Bob was one of the three "Legends Speak" at Watkins Glen, sharing the spotlight with Ed Diehl and Kas Kastner. We have nothing formal planned for but we expect Bob to hang out with us as an honored guest. Henry, now you will have to come. Make no mistake...this weekend is about TRIUMPHS. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: Bob Johns ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Feb 25, 2010 8:14 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st lass to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. umner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry From: rjohns at woh.rr.com o: dos_gusanos at msn.com C: jeffreykelley at charter.net ubject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? ate: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 enry, hat is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that r. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly irman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I ave the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, hat Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, ith an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing y ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the oswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. id you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this vent and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. t is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is ad for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I ill copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right ow. y address is: obert Johns ubject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? ob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. here is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and he program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send e your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the rivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 05-259-1537 enry, o we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the ars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an luminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after he race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR reviously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. ob Johns Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Feb 25 08:57:56 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:57:56 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs In-Reply-To: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> References: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> Message-ID: <003601cab633$4e4013d0$eac03b70$@com> My leading rule is: As soft as possible, as strong as needed. Cheers Chris: Who is running stock leaf spring on his TR4 -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Gesendet: Donnerstag, 25. Februar 2010 15:57 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs What is the general consensus on leaf springs such as re-arching, or adding leafs, or removing leafs or leaving as is? The car was originally setup with the stock leaf springs and axle spacers to lower it slightly. thxx, Bob Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Feb 25 09:37:29 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:37:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? References: , Message-ID: <9318A6DA20B74C98A27C7D3C8A81A90D@Bucktailus> Henry, First the records for Sebring have been wrong all these years and is supposed to be corrected the next printing. Mike Rothschild and I drove # 34 to 19th. place overall. My car was silver blue at the Ft. Sumner race. Number 60, as confirmed by the program you scanned and sent. If you would please, look over the photos you have and see if #60 shows up in any of the photos. I don't see a #60 TR2 in any of the photo copies that you sent, but all the photos were not copied. That Super 90 Speedster and I had quite a race. His Tonneau cover flew off right into my path and I should have protested, but I was a new kid on the block and didn't want to make waves, besides it would have cost me $10.00 to protest. There was a 356 Coupe that I pushed until he spun it, as I knew would likely happen from my European experience. I wonder if it was the guy whose photo album you now have. Is Bill Randle still around? We will talk about what I think got me the invite to drive for the Factory later. Bob Johns ---- Original Message ----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: Bob Johns ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 9:14 AM Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st Class to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. Sumner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 Henry, That is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that Dr. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as I found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly Airman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I have the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, that Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, with an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing my ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the Roswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. Did you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this event and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. It is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is had for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I will copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right now. My address is: Robert Johns Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Feb 25 14:07:15 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:07:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Message-ID: Tom Householder asked if there were any other TRs at Ft. Sumner in that Oct. 1956 race. Bob Johns ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert Johns To: T. Householder Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 4:01 PM Subject: Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? This will answer your question, But it is interesting that I do not remember any other TRs. At least there were no TRs that I was contesting with. Only the Morgan and the Porsches. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: rjohns at woh.rr.com Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:32 PM Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com Subject: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 01:30:52 -0500 Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 002.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 003.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 004.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 005.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 006.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 007.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 008.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 009.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 011.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 012.jpg] From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Feb 25 15:11:01 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 15:11:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FW: Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: rjohns at woh.rr.com; trhouse at columbus.rr.com; fot at autox.team.net CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: RE: [Fot] Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 14:42:33 -0700 The entry list shows 5 TR's entered. I went through the photos which were pages removed from a photo album and matched up everything based on how they numbered the Porsche for the particular event. The other photos were from other events like the Spring (May) event at Ft Sumner sponsored by the Roswell Sports Car Club. I bought and sold to my dad a white 1957 TR3 (he still has it) that has Black Stripes through the center and a Blue interior with Factory hardtop. It has never been painted and is in good shape other than a few odd dents. The car came out of Roswell and had a dash plaque in the door pocket from the "Pecos Bill Gymkhana" from April of 1960. I have often wondered what other events it participated in. We have never opened the glove box so it's still some kind of time capsule. I'm hoping there's a Luger in there not just old spark plugs. It is a testament to the provenance of Sports Car Racing in those days to think of all the wierd towns that had Sports Car Clubs and put on events. I have programs from the Iraan hill climb in New Mexico (don't have a clue where it was held) and the Mayhill hillclimb also held in New Mexico. Sometime, late sixties early seventies, it just tanked................... Cheers Henry Morrison From jmwagner at greenheart.com Thu Feb 25 21:38:52 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 20:38:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Justin: Not Triumph engine related... YET... but interesting.... Message-ID: <4B87505C.7030109@greenheart.com> Compu-tronix.... interesting... --Justin http://www.compu-tronix.com/DIS8.htm From gt6steve at aol.com Fri Feb 26 08:10:09 2010 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:10:09 -0500 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <8CC850CEBDB304F-4B54-E0C3@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com> Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve From gasket.works at gte.net Fri Feb 26 08:40:44 2010 From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 15:40:44 +0000 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <171335234-1267198838-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-593215767-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve ------Original Message------ From: gt6steve at aol.com Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Sent: Feb 26, 2010 7:10 AM Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gasket.works at gte.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From mlbruner53 at yahoo.com Fri Feb 26 08:48:23 2010 From: mlbruner53 at yahoo.com (Michael Bruner) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 07:48:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] California Speedway In-Reply-To: <8CC850CEBDB304F-4B54-E0C3@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <123125.41274.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'm not going to make it. You guys have fun. Mike Bruner TR4A - #612 Blacksmith Racing --- On Fri, 2/26/10, gt6steve at aol.com wrote: From: gt6steve at aol.com Subject: [Fot] California Speedway To: FOT at autox.team.net Date: Friday, February 26, 2010, 7:10 AM Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as mlbruner53 at yahoo.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Feb 26 09:01:45 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 11:01:45 EST Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <11076.207c9a87.38b94a69@cs.com> In a message dated 2/26/2010 9:50:15 AM Central Standard Time, gasket.works at gte.net writes: > I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve > I was still moving a lot of snow yesterday...wish I was there. Joe A From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Fri Feb 26 09:24:37 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:24:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway References: <11076.207c9a87.38b94a69@cs.com> Message-ID: <7D868E031C6249098E0801C130B1BE89@latitudefb1e41> Texas World Speedway is calling and my car is on the trailer ready to answer. This is CVAR's first race weekend of the year. We have 2 TR4's, a TR3, a GT6 and 2 Spitfires attending. We had snow earlier this week but it should be sunny and in the 60's this weekend. Wish you all could be here. Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; ; Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] California Speedway > In a message dated 2/26/2010 9:50:15 AM Central Standard Time, > gasket.works at gte.net writes: > > >> I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve >> > > I was still moving a lot of snow yesterday...wish I was there. > > Joe A > _______________________________________________ From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Fri Feb 26 20:32:38 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 22:32:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] loss Message-ID: <003101cab75d$84c33e70$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi all, I just got word from Oscar Koveleski that his mechanic Jack Deren's wife Terry has died. I don't know the circumstances. Terry Deren was Terry Thompson before she married Jack. Last Sept at the Glen, we were looking at some old photos of drivers from years past and Terry said she knew most of them; also said she had a cousin named Mickey. I don't think she was BS'ing me. Jack worked for Roger Penske when Roger still drove. He's been around a long time and took care of Oscar's CanAm cars, including when Tony A to Z drove for him. Also the Red Lobster GTP cars. I met them in 1969. Great folks. RIP Terry. Bill From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sat Feb 27 13:20:23 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:20:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] roll center Tr-6 Message-ID: <3CEE00A63DC443EDA0C645F02B371DBA@INSPIRON> Has anyone measured the roll center on a Tr and even better made modifications to improve it thanks rob From Billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 27 19:53:22 2010 From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 16:53:22 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Brake Bias In-Reply-To: <4B89B9DA.8090508@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B89B9DA.8090508@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <8966A721-13EC-49BC-B160-B96DD67D1536@bnj.com> It doesn't change all that much track to track, unless a track has a really special feature like a very slow corner after a long straight--like Road America. That's pretty much what I do--at the beginning of a test and tune day or first practice on a track that I haven't had much experience with I'll try some very hard braking while I'm on a straight section--after making very sure there's no one behind me. Really stand on it and try to hold the brakes at the limit of adhesion. If it tracks perfectly straight I know I can use more front bias. I add it until the back end starts to get really light. How that manifests itself is different on different cars. Peyote just gets tail happy but won't spin usually, other cars I've tried this with can get into a spin pretty quickly. Since you're going straight you can usually avoid a full spin by easing off the brakes. If you just lift it will probably snap spin (one of those left-right-left things that just get worse). Not that big a deal, get both pedals in and ride it out. Try not to flat spot the tires and do the entire maneuver in a place where a spin wont stick you into a rail. I'd also do this if I'm changing tires for some reason. The exception is Monterey or other General Racing events where I'm required to use Dunlops. I don't bother trying to optimize Dunlops. there's never enough track time at those events and the tires are so marginal that a little tweaking won't help. Once you have the bias dialed in on the straight, try it in a fast corner. If you have too much front bias the car will understeer when you are continuously braking while turning. If trail braking is important for the track then it makes sense to back off a little. Most tracks I race on, trail braking is not important other than keeping the car settled. The exception is Sears Point (Infineon) which has two turns that work best with late braking and a lot of trail. It's a little hard to work this out since a little sudden braking in a turn will also stop understeer by transferring weight to the front wheels. What I'm talking about is the braking that goes on after the weight has shifted forward, in other words you brake hard to the turn in, ease off a little as you start turning but maintain some steady braking as you head for the apex. If the car understeers then, you might get some relief with less bias. Winter's been great. A little tsunami scare this morning kept me from surfing, but other than that... On Feb 27, 2010, at 2:33 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > Curious how you set the brake bias on your car. Left to my own devices, I would bias forward then add more rear till the back wants to pass the front on corner braking and back off. How do you get it settled in? Does it change much by track e.g. fast corners vs slow tight corner dominated tracks or do you set it and forget it? > > Hope the winter is treating you well... > > Best, > > M From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Mon Feb 1 03:16:41 2010 From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 21:16:41 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1500 Brake Cap Message-ID: I am hoping someone on the list will know where to purchase a Spitfire 1500, Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap? This is the Cap in need has the small thread. Not the TR6 type large cap. I don't mind if I have to purchase the complete reservoir with cap. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated. Thanks Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR-4 Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Feb 1 03:27:18 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 11:27:18 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Inside In-Reply-To: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> References: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> Message-ID: <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> Good that none of us was born as an combustion engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy_yaAOKjA8&feature=related Cheers Chris From spitfiresuz at 141.com Mon Feb 1 04:31:04 2010 From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler) Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 06:31:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Inside In-Reply-To: <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> References: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> Message-ID: <4B66BB78.40608@141.com> /kaS169: Permission denied From spitfiresuz at 141.com Mon Feb 1 06:45:26 2010 From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (spitfiresuz at 141.com) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 08:45:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Inside Message-ID: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> Awesome video, Chris! And I found this great video on valve float in the "Related Videos" category: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY Susan :) -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From jeff_durant at comcast.net Mon Feb 1 08:44:37 2010 From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (jeff_durant at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 15:44:37 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups Message-ID: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm rebuilding a CR gearbox for my TR6 using a Kastner gearset and realized I used my last factory syncro cups on another CR gearbox build. Who offers the best (closest to factory) syncro cups for the big TR's these days? I've tried Moss cups I'm my brother's TR4A trans rebuild and they were marginal. Anyone tried the TRF or Rimmer's premium ones? Thanks, Jeff D. TR6 #12 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Feb 1 09:18:24 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 11:18:24 EST Subject: [Fot] Towing Message-ID: <78e.7daef18.389858d0@aol.com> Amazingly Kas, I was offered that truck Saturday morning for $3000. Honestly! A converted Snap-On truck setup for a motorcycle race team. Has some Cummins Turbodiesel. I will be offering it to a racer at work in a few hours... In a message dated 1/31/2010 6:39:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, kaskas at cox.net writes: So enough of this. You need a 400 HP truck that has sleeping for five, and cooking, and gets 23 mpg, while going uphill with the AC blooming full chat and brakes that can stop a locomotive. For this we will pay about $3000. Okay now that is settled, lets talk about cars.. -- From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Mon Feb 1 17:50:12 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 19:50:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] search "spec race fords fly" at Utube Message-ID: I just found this on U tube This is another view of getting run over at Summit point last labor day rob From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Feb 1 19:00:55 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 21:00:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Searching for Steve Balfor Message-ID: <4B678757.8030803@cfl.rr.com> Sorry to bomb the list but would Steve Balfor please contact me off list. I have some Sebring 1957 TR3 questions. thxx, Bob From ofbracing at nefcom.net Tue Feb 2 10:06:16 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Feb 2 11:29:52 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 13:29:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> References: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: Don, I found a 200 watt magnetic block heater at a Bumper to Bumper parts store about a year ago. Just stick it to the side of the block under the intake and plug it in. Brad On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 12:06 PM, ofbracing wrote: > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Feb 2 11:30:55 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 13:30:55 EST Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX - KASTNER CUP Message-ID: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> FOT, We have passed 35 drivers that have have registered an intent to run the KASTNER CUP. But I still have not heard from some of the usual suspects. I will publish the list at the end of the week and submit the list to Classic Motorsports. In the past they have published the names of the drivers along with the latest news on this event. Of special note, it appears that we can expect SCCA CHAMPION SAM HALKIAS to bring FOUR TR6s with the SCCA Champ Car to be put on display. Perhaps it is a candidate for Honorary Pace Car.....how cool would that be? THIS LOOKS LIKE THE YEAR OF THE TR6...........as it should be. Two of the Three Sebring TR4s prepared by Kas Kastner will be there...... And more..... Let me hear from you so I can get this list to Bill Brinke and Gary Fuqua (ORGANIZERS) and get on to something else. If you are a vendor, take a look at the proposal for vendors. $100 for a 10 x 20. Regards, Joe Alexander From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Feb 2 09:15:29 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 10:15:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Jeff, I don't see any other responses, so I'll give it a shot. Sam Clark and I noted this problem in our transmission rebuild articles at vtr.com. This is a case where new is not always better. I measure them first and reuse them if they are not worn out. If you have to replace them, Victoria British seems to have the worst ones. The ones from the other dealers are usable, but worse than the originals. This is based on experience from a few years back. I have not tried the premium ones. They must be relatively new. I have bought NOS sychro rings on ebay. Larry jeff_durant at comcast.net wrote: > I'm rebuilding a CR gearbox for my TR6 using a Kastner gearset and realized I used my last factory syncro cups on another CR gearbox build. Who offers the best (closest to factory) syncro cups for the big TR's these days? I've tried Moss cups I'm my brother's TR4A trans rebuild and they were marginal. Anyone tried the TRF or Rimmer's premium ones? > Thanks, > Jeff D. > TR6 #12 > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as cartravel at pobox.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 2 12:19:19 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 12:19:19 -0700 Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX - KASTNER CUP In-Reply-To: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> References: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> Message-ID: <4B687AB7.4020509@bradakis.com> After the disappointment of last year when illness derailed my Portland plans I really don't want to miss this one! mjb. From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 2 12:41:59 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 14:41:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Message-ID: Hi, Here's another data point - I think Hardy Prentiss mentioned on this list that re-using the old ones is a reasonable practice. You can recondition them as long as the cones are are not badly worn. You just work the flat face 'till you get your dimensions. At least that's what I've done more than a few times. The new pieces that I got from TRF in the last 5 or so years seem to be reasonable quality. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Feb 2 13:50:25 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:50:25 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Inside Valve Bounce In-Reply-To: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <4B689011.2090607@pobox.com> That's a neat video. I'll add that link to my website. However, there is more to valve bounce than just spring pressure. The profile of the camshaft also has a lot to do it. Here are some other interesting videos. http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/high_speed_video/#Mechanisms Larry spitfiresuz at 141.com wrote: > Awesome video, Chris! And I found this great video on valve float in the > "Related Videos" category: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY > > > Susan :) From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Feb 2 16:52:18 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 18:52:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Message-ID: <6227878829BB4F9E94DDA0F81C614EEA@userb38463fba5> Call Quantum Mechanics and get them from him. Good quality parts from a guy who knows good from bad. NIL and all that stuff. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Young" To: Cc: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups > Jeff, > I don't see any other responses, so I'll give it a shot. > > Sam Clark and I noted this problem in our transmission rebuild articles > at vtr.com. This is a case where new is not always better. I measure > them first and reuse them if they are not worn out. If you have to > replace them, Victoria British seems to have the worst ones. The ones > from the other dealers are usable, but worse than the originals. This is > based on experience from a few years back. I have not tried the premium > ones. They must be relatively new. I have bought NOS sychro rings on > ebay. > Larry From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Feb 2 17:09:41 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 00:09:41 GMT Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil heater that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they may not be available. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From VANDECARR at aol.com Tue Feb 2 18:47:37 2010 From: VANDECARR at aol.com (VANDECARR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 20:47:37 EST Subject: [Fot] light weight batteries Message-ID: I use a PC625 - Odyssey Battery. It's a dry cell design and can be mounted vertical or horizontal. Small weighs under 7 lbs. and when it was in my TR it would easily crank over the V8 that was in it. I now have it in my formula car and have no problems with it for 3 years. web site http://www.odysseybatteries.net Dean VanDeCarr From robertten1 at aol.com Tue Feb 2 20:42:09 2010 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 22:42:09 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or not. Just a thought, Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Joe Boruch To: ofbracing at nefcom.net Cc: FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil heater that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they may not be available. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From kaskas at cox.net Tue Feb 2 21:37:03 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 20:37:03 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Not that this is possible now, but when I was a telegrapher for the Union Pacific Railroad,( may they go in peace), I put a signal lantern (kerosene) next to the engine and a blanket over the whole engine, next morning it was just fine in sub Zero Wyoming weather, and started right up.. -- Never be beaten by equipment From tr4racing at googlemail.com Wed Feb 3 02:59:04 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:59:04 +0100 Subject: [Fot] The truth In-Reply-To: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> References: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Message-ID: <001201caa4b7$87019a00$9504ce00$@com> http://en.tackfilm.se/?id=1265186032853RA55&q=low Have fun. Chris From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Feb 3 03:28:49 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 05:28:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: My dad had one of those in a car when I was a kid. Apparently it didn't regulate to well and it got overly hot, ruined the oil which subsequently ruined the engine. He talked about that thing for years after wards. I'm assuming if they sell them now they are probably a little better regulated. Brad On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:42 PM, wrote: > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From goodparts at verizon.net Wed Feb 3 04:23:28 2010 From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 06:23:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] carb question Message-ID: <003001caa4c3$52b39800$6402a8c0@richardyap2xwy> Can anyone answer this question from one of my customers? Why did they lengthen the dashpot height on the Stromberg 175CD carb,after the TR4 ? Thanks, Richard Good Good Parts From rjl6n at cstone.net Wed Feb 3 04:52:21 2010 From: rjl6n at cstone.net (rjl6n at cstone.net) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 06:52:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> References: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Message-ID: I've done the same thing with a 100 watt trouble light, and it was enough to keep the engine warm enough to start on a ski trip to Quebec (-35 degrees F). John On Tue, February 2, 2010 11:37 pm, Kas Kastner wrote: > Not that this is possible now, but when I was a telegrapher for the Union > Pacific Railroad,( may they go in peace), I put a signal lantern > (kerosene) next to the engine and a blanket over the whole engine, next > morning it was just fine in sub Zero Wyoming weather, and started right > up.. > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rjl at gt-classics.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jerrybarr at charter.net Wed Feb 3 07:25:05 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 08:25:05 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I had one and it did not do much in the way of heating the oil. On Feb 2, 2010, at 9:42 PM, robertten1 at aol.com wrote: > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Wed Feb 3 08:21:09 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 07:21:09 -0800 Subject: [Fot] engine heater Message-ID: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. ~Steve From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Feb 3 10:42:36 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 09:42:36 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B69B58C.7040809@greenheart.com> I don't know what you guys are talking about. --Justin Los Angeles, CA ;-) From ofbracing at nefcom.net Wed Feb 3 10:55:55 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:55:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> I've about decided to try a small catalytic heater behind the grill to blow hot air through the radiator and oil cooler, which should also heat the engine compartment. My grill is attached by 2 screws and 2 tie wraps so it's easy to remove and replace. It rarely gets below freezing where we race so the main issue is to make it easier to start in the mornings, but it's better to be safe than sorry, especially without antifreeze. Thanks, Don -----Original Message----- Steven Belfer If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. From igofaster at att.net Wed Feb 3 11:33:25 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:33:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> References: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Steve & FoT... we are required to run straight water, I too have been concerned about our little Triumph in the paddock when the temp's are freezing..been told we would need a long hard freeze overnight to harm the cars... I ain't buying it. Being in the boat business 10 years ago I've seen cast iron blocks freeze in boats when the temp hovered around 27-30 degrees in one night. Problem is an aluminum radiator and attaching a magnet to it... I kinda like the idea of the little magnet block heater... I'm my garage at home, I'll cover the engine bay with a thick moving blanket and place one of the long space heaters under the front of the car... other than that???? Bobby Whitehead 1970GT6 CVAR DP GP7 ________________________________ From: Steven Belfer To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010 9:21:09 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] engine heater If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. ~Steve _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as igofaster at att.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team..net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 3 12:48:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 11:48:40 -0800 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <07533F9B5A14421BA3DC8ED141B9931B@jdnet.deere.com> > other than that???? If you are only worried about temps a few degrees below freezing, say down to 20F, then just sticking a 100 watt trouble light under the closed hood actually works pretty good. Just don't forget to remove it before starting the engine! Years ago we had a car that didn't like to start when it was below freezing. Dad added a 110v heater that teed into the regular heater lines, and plugged it into the porch light. He'd flip the light on before he got dressed, and by the time he'd finished his coffee, that old Chevy would start right up. Even blew moderately warm air from the heater (compared to outdoors anyway). -- Randall From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Wed Feb 3 14:56:12 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Terry and Cindy) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 07:56:12 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100203215614.PNRC1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> I have found 2 problems with the copies that abound. Firstly, the taper angle is wrongly cut. This can be detected by putting some bearing blue on the syncro ring then pressing it onto the gear and rotating it. A mis-match is obvious. The second problem is the thickness. Once the taper angle is proven to be correct, the back clearance between the dog teeth and the mating face on the gear is down as low as O.010". This is basically worn out. Thankfully, we still have a few new STANPART ones left here. Terry O'Beirne, Australia From niteseeker at mac.com Wed Feb 3 15:52:35 2010 From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 16:52:35 -0600 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> References: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: <57B15475-BF16-419F-92E2-73F0A9195D5C@mac.com> Can always do what my grandfather did with his model T. Place a pan of hot coals under the engine. From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Wed Feb 3 16:11:50 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 18:11:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater References: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: <005001caa526$45fa1cc0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> I used to have a Dodge Coronet wagon that I used for various ski trips. Dodge had an option to heat the engine block that consisted of knocking out a soft plug and installing a replacement that had a heater element in it. Plug it into 110v and leave overnight; worked great; kept the coolant warm. Only drawback was that you had to have the right sized soft plug. The in-line heater hose setup works ok too. The dipstick on my Dodge van is about 4 feet long so a dipstick heater probably wouldn't reach the oil level! The trouble light under the hood is as cheap and easy as anything. This could make for a good joke for certain Eastern European types (Oscar Koveleski?) Make sure it's a 100 watt bulb and not flourescent! Couldn't resist. Bill----- Original Message ----- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 12:06 PM Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Wed Feb 3 17:26:16 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 19:26:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well > or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil > pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening > they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Wed Feb 3 19:59:51 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 02:59:51 GMT Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <20100203.215951.16856.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> They have block heaters and if you keep them plugged in constantly they will jack up your electric bill. I made that mistake. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> To: , Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 19:26:16 -0500 diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well > or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil > pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening > they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=NGuZH7Dzth3CpPiUVncqIwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA= From tdwark at mpinet.net Wed Feb 3 21:20:48 2010 From: tdwark at mpinet.net (tdwark at mpinet.net) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 23:20:48 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <18842072.1265257248498.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Rob All vehicles, that heaters are installed are called Block heaters, that heat the coolant that then transfers heat to the rest of the engine.....that includes the oil and everything else...... This has nothing to do with some diesel engines that require glow plugs to start.....It makes starting them much easier. Some people choose to install block heaters on Gas engines in the colder areas of the country, for the same reason there installed on diesel engines, Big Trucks, etc.......Pass this along to the rest of the FOT. btw, for you guy's that want to keep your race car engines warm, over night.......buy a heating pad, blanket or 150 watt bulb under the hood in a reflector.........this will do it....... Regards Tom Wark -----Original Message----- >From: Rob <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> >Sent: Feb 3, 2010 7:26 PM >To: fot at autox.team.net, robertten1 at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > >diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I >am not sure what they heat up. rob >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM >Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > >> I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that >> replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well >> or >> not. >> >> Just a thought, >> Bob T >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Joe Boruch >> To: ofbracing at nefcom.net >> Cc: FOT at autox.team.net >> Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater >> >> >> A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil >> pan. >> Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil >> heater >> that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening >> they >> may not be available. Joe >> >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: "ofbracing" >> To: "FOT" >> Subject: [Fot] Engine heater >> Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 >> >> As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd >> like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at >> the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated >> trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What >> have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> Diet Help >> Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. >> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U >> 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tdwark at mpinet.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From WEmery7451 at aol.com Wed Feb 3 21:35:06 2010 From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 23:35:06 EST Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <204e4.7c21e4ac.389ba87a@aol.com> In a message dated 2/3/10 6:00:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, 19to1tr6 at comcast.net writes: << Diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. >> My boy's TR-7 sits outside all winter with nothing more than water and water wetter in the radiator, and a trouble light under the hood. I told him several times that that light may not keep his radiator and block from freezing, especially if the bulb burns out. It does get cold in the mountains of north central Pennsylvania. If you can find an older heating pad without a timer on it, you could place it on the top of the engine and plug it in. I use three of them to warm small tents for outdoor cats. An electric blanket should also work. From mark at bradakis.com Wed Feb 3 22:02:13 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 22:02:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff Message-ID: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Feb 3 22:03:15 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 21:03:15 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Justin: Race car for sale in CA Message-ID: <4B6A5513.5050108@greenheart.com> Just passing this along.... --Justin http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/1584659449.html From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 4 00:51:34 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 00:51:34 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get lost! :) Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 10:02 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Feb 4 01:05:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 01:05:32 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Joe Curry wrote: > Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get > lost! :) > Yes, he is the lucky passenger. Looks like a neat ride. mjb. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 4 04:10:17 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 03:10:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <633208.48218.qm@web80805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That is a special 2 seat U2. Notice the chase vehicle? Pontiac GP. ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 3:05:32 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff Joe Curry wrote: > Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get > lost! :) > Yes, he is the lucky passenger. Looks like a neat ride. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as dmitchel at sbcglobal.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From timmurph at fastbytes.com Thu Feb 4 08:40:18 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 09:40:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000001caa5b0$5b7d5cd0$12781670$@com> Thanks for sharing the video, fantastic! Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 11:02 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From ofbracing at nefcom.net Thu Feb 4 12:14:23 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 14:14:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Road Atlanta event Feb 20-21, 2010 Message-ID: <6756969AE34E4B049772DE49C08D3B62@Dell5100Laptop> The Triumph Ghetto will be at Road Atlanta in two weeks (see VDCA event notice below). If any FOTers are going to be there, come see us. Don -----Original Message----- From: VDCA Race Director [mailto:Grandwazoo at earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 4:36 PM To: donmarshall at nefcom.net Subject: Road Atlanta event Feb 20-21, 2010 Feb 3, 2010 Dear VDCA Members and Friends: In about two weeks, our club will begin its 2010 racing season and it will be anything but ordinary as we are going to Road Atlanta for the first time in our history. That's right, on Feb 20 and 21, VDCA will visit one of the nation's most revered road racing circuits with a two day vintage race meeting. We hope you are planning to join us for this historic event. Some of you have raced Road Atlanta before, others never. Regardless, we need your support. We are a club devoted solely to its members. We offer the best racing value at the best tracks possible. Your entry is our key measure of success. Without you, tracks like Road Atlanta are simply outside our reach. As members of VDCA your loyalty is what makes us different, better, and special. We recognize that you have a choice of racing venues and hosting organizations. We believe that none offer a better mix of period competition and camaraderie, all at the tracks where you want to compete. And to continue this commitment, your participation is needed at VDCA weekends. I want to again personally invite you to come to Road Atlanta for our inaugural event. Entry is easy by going to our website, vintagedrive.com, downloading and completing the entry form, and mailing it to Sandy Jackson this week. We have a great weekend planned including a Mexican Fiesta Social on Saturday night at Dick Barbour Racing hosted by several sponsors that want this weekend to succeed.. See you at Road Atlanta! Thanks for entering! Thanks for supporting VDCA! Ray Morgan Road Atlanta Event Chairman From gasket.works at verizon.net Fri Feb 5 08:50:48 2010 From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST) Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 07:50:48 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Tappets... References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> FYI NO Financial interest... I just purchased a set of the finest looking Tappets for a TR4 I have ever seen. ( Fyi... a few years back I had about ten sets made out of A2 Tool steel) . These are so superior in quality. You could shave of the brilliance of the mirror finish. They are harder than RC 60. In a figure of speech called a "litote" they are not " not inexpensive" but, they look like a deal well worth the effort. Contact Greg Solo's Engine room.831.429.1800 in Santac Cruz. . Mordy M.N.Dunst Gasket Works USA, LLC www.Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 ph 626.628.3777 fx Triple R Munitions, Inc. Class 6 Certified F.F.L. 626.201.9471 GMT -8 Pacific From fubog1 at aol.com Fri Feb 5 11:54:03 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 13:54:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tappets... In-Reply-To: <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com><060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew><4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> Message-ID: <8CC74ABB8A35800-A18-2912@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> Ditto that! I am in the process of fitting a set in an engine right now, VERY impressed with these so far, I expect that they will work well. Thanks to Greg! Glen -----Original Message----- From: MORDY DUNST To: 'Friends of Triumph' Sent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 10:50 am Subject: [Fot] Tappets... FYI NO Financial interest... I just purchased a set of the finest looking Tappets for a TR4 I have ever seen. ( Fyi... a few years back I had about ten sets made out of A2 Tool steel) . These are so superior in quality. You could shave of the brilliance of the mirror finish. They are harder than RC 60. In a figure of speech called a "litote" they are not " not inexpensive" but, they look like a deal well worth the effort. Contact Greg Solo's Engine room.831.429.1800 in Santac Cruz. . Mordy M.N.Dunst Gasket Works USA, LLC www.Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 ph 626.628.3777 fx Triple R Munitions, Inc. Class 6 Certified F.F.L. 626.201.9471 GMT -8 Pacific Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as fubog1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Feb 5 22:29:26 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 23:29:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 Message-ID: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> You car nuts might enjoy this link that my sister-in-law sent me. Traffic in 1906 -- San Francisco's Market Street. Link is at the bottom. You probably have to cut-n-paste. Despite the description below, this was shot from a cable car, not a streetcar. The difference, cable cars are pulled from a below-street-level cable -- see the slot between the tracks. Also the oncoming cars are cable cars -- open front, enclosed back, just like the Powell Street cars of today. Streetcars are longer, completely enclosed, powered by an overhead electrical wire -- a couple of them cross in front of the cable car. That's the spire of the Ferry Building (it's still there today) straight ahead, so the cable car is traveling easterly. (I lived in San Francisco from first grade through high school. No, I didn't live there in 1906!!) --Rocky Entriken This is great, well worth watching. San Francisco Market St 1906. This is fascinating to watch. 7-minute San Francisco street car ride 1906 - No lights, no traffic direction, all at the pace of a horse or bicycle. Thought the young people might not believe what life was like 100 years ago! Even some cars with right hand drive! This fascinating bit of film was shot from the San Francisco Market Street car estimated taken just a few days before the 1906 earthquake. Amazing to see the casual way the early cars just wove in an out of traffic and the pedestrians seemingly taking their lives in their hands as they walked in front of anything on wheels. Notice the heavy goods wagons running on tracks on the right as they get close to the Ferry Building . The wagons appear to have extra large steel wheels with a standard track width. And what about the fat cop with his truncheon ready to deal with any civil disturbances. Wonder what he did during the earthquake. Some comment from a local historian: - This gets identified as 1905 to 1909, but recent research by some transit experts concludes that it was done possibly on Monday, April 16, 1906 or Tuesday, April 17! Yep a day or two before the earthquake that would greatly alter this landscape. The other interesting thing is to watch the traffic and the chances people took when crossing the street. Street accidents were endemic throughout the US as the country changed with the advent of the horseless carriage. The cable cars that are visible were running at a predictable 9.2 MPH. Horses moved slowly on city streets too. But the automobile could reach speeds of 20 MPH! Early autos had the steering wheel on the right then we standardized it to the left. The rules of the road were evolving. Major train crossing had crossing lights, but rural crossing were only marked with a sign and you were responsible for your own safety in crossing the tracks and looking for the train coming. Even signal lights in cities didn't evolve until the 1920s. The cop directing traffic was about the only traffic control in use until then. As life sped up, we devised ways to protect the public, but it evolved slowly and unfortunately a lot of people died on city streets. http://www.flixxy.com/san-francisco-1905-historical-footage.htm From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Feb 6 03:56:03 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:56:03 +0100 Subject: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 In-Reply-To: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> References: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> Message-ID: <000901caa71a$fbb0b290$f31217b0$@com> Surprising that the bicycle rider didn't fall into the slot of the cable car. And the aspect ratio was a little stretched so the slim ancient cars look like a wide F1 race :-) Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rocky Entriken Gesendet: Samstag, 6. Februar 2010 06:29 An: .Wichita Region; .Triumph List; .Team.Net Betreff: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 http://www.flixxy.com/san-francisco-1905-historical-footage.htm Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From igofaster at att.net Sat Feb 6 09:06:33 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:06:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats Message-ID: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? Bobby Whitehead 1971 TR6 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Feb 6 11:36:52 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 13:36:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC75727C64C897-4988-1CAE7@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> I went to Shell Valley and bought their fibreglass seats used in COBRA KITS. I think it was about $100 for the pair. WYOTECH upholstered them very nicely. A local shop could likely replicate mine for $200-300 for the pair. I fabricated some simple brackets, put lightening holes in them and powder coated. Excellent results!!! photobucket.com/ambro But what about the Miata Seats and UNCLE JACK'S (design) Conversion KIT? We are doing another production run of these kits, due in two weeks, btw. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Bobby Whitehead To: FoT Triumph Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2010 10:06 am Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash nd the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost ffective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on he market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a hop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a ittle over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda lasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been recked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a ad time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this orning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice f color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? Bobby Whitehead 971 TR6 970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mike.mehl at yahoo.com Sat Feb 6 12:43:21 2010 From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:43:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question Message-ID: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl From emanteno at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 12:57:37 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 13:57:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <354a1781002061157o3bd292b3jf50fc50800fb7967@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 10:06 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden > dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem > is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the > nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over > $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... > VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We > spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint > last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks > like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new > seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company > building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 > range each... Any ideas FoT? > Now you know why so many TR6's have Miata seats in them. Irv From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 6 17:01:31 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 16:01:31 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Typically, you want it as high as possible, without the engine overheating first. The fan sucks power and fuel, so don't run it unless necessary. Most OEM sensors turn on around 200F or even higher. But it depends on the situation. If you're sitting in a grid or something, you might want to keep the motor cooler for best power on take-off. Randall From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Feb 6 17:03:16 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 19:03:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Bobby I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale for a fairly reasonable cost. I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same stuff. Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we have recovered TR7's and MGB's. The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in a TR. Good Luck Glenn Franco 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Feb 6 17:07:30 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 19:07:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Message-ID: <4B6E0442.4010201@charter.net> Where are you located?? We are in Michigan. We could help Glenn Glenn Franco wrote: > Bobby > I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) > TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act > now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale > for a fairly reasonable cost. > I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit > and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the > British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same > stuff. > Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. > These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you > buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff > to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we > have recovered TR7's and MGB's. > The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look > good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is > mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in > a TR. > Good Luck > Glenn Franco > 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's > > Bobby Whitehead wrote: >> I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the >> wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be >> rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. >> Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, >> foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the >> work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a >> little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a >> complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year >> (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks >> like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for >> new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a >> company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color >> for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? >> >> Bobby Whitehead >> 1971 TR6 >> 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From LimeyV8 at aol.com Sat Feb 6 17:15:00 2010 From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 19:15:00 EST Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats Message-ID: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> last time I bought that stuff, it was A LOT cheaper to order it from Rimmer and pay the shipping - the original type seat covers, foam etc are coming from England anyway Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 2/6/2010 1:01:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, igofaster at att.net writes: Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Feb 6 18:59:47 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 17:59:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <70E27F7BD0DC42F1B9A3AA2AAE1A70D3@Pendys> Mike; different rigs take different settings, my wifes V8 powered TR4 has to come on by 180ish , if i set it at 190 it has a tougher time on a warm day to bring her down.My early mustang (basically same V8 and radiator) has no problem coming on at 190 and dropping, the TR4 racer does not have any fans elec. or mech. at all and even on a very hot day, on track it can't get above 165-170, to big of a radiator. You will have to play with it a little to suit you, found that the Painless Wireing kit works pretty good ............Mark P #65 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 11:43 AM Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > Thanks!!!!! > > Mike Mehl > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Feb 6 20:08:00 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 22:08:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Glenn, The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. Third production run just sold out. Joe A. -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco To: Bobby Whitehead Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2010 6:03 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Bobby I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale for a fairly reasonable cost. I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same stuff. Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we have recovered TR7's and MGB's. The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in a TR. Good Luck Glenn Franco 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:24:32 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:24:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> Do you have a charging system? Put an electric fan on (pull type) and run it all the time. Anytime the car is up to temperature, run it. It's going to be needed on the grid, pace lap, and maybe in a draft. In free air at speed, it's not going to do anything. I ask about a charging system because, I'm not sure of your set up / race length. Without a charging system, I don't know whether your particular set up can afford the draw (it's not a lot) for an entire race. I seem to remember in 2004 at Watkins Glen, when they had a lot of MGs whch led to a slow pace lap, some of those without fans cooked their motors. Ouch. It would be ashame to cook a $10k+ race engine when a $100 fan would have prevented it. And as Babcock and others elsewhere can tell you, don't mount it by using using those clips that push into the fins. ;) Bob From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:41:32 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:41:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> I just realized I totally missed the question and ranted away (snowed in.. cabin fever). Just run it on a toggle and flip it on when the motor is up to temperature. The potential for failure is higher with a "sensor" than a toggle switch. Bob From lfritz82 at hotmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:47:29 2010 From: lfritz82 at hotmail.com (Lorne Fritz) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:47:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bobby, Years ago I got a foam kit for a TR6. It was expensive and was of very poor quality. I went to the local upolstery shop(most wont' do cars but will cut foam) and had them make some pads from their densest foam. It was under $50 for everything. Moss's upolstery is of pretty good quailty and are easy to install. Lorne > Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:06:33 -0800 > From: igofaster at att.net > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats > > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as lfritz82 at hotmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ From timmurph at fastbytes.com Sat Feb 6 20:48:45 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:48:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000701caa7a8$744b80d0$5ce28270$@com> I'll have to look at the documentation, but I think it's around 200 or slightly higher. I've got a manual switch on the dash, wired in parallel to the temp switch, that I can flip to run the fan on the starting grid if I want. Once on the track we flip it off if we had used it. We also use it sometimes to help cool down the engine in the paddock after a session. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Mehl Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 1:43 PM To: Triumph Friends of Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Feb 6 22:10:35 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:10:35 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <6B1B6AC8FC6A4A12A0AEF962484B4B9D@Pendys> You are correct , OEM standards today are in the 200+ range and were also talking about todays engines being all aluminum....Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph Friends of'" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question >> What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > > Typically, you want it as high as possible, without the engine overheating > first. The fan sucks power and fuel, so don't run it unless necessary. > Most OEM sensors turn on around 200F or even higher. > > But it depends on the situation. If you're sitting in a grid or > something, > you might want to keep the motor cooler for best power on take-off. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Feb 7 06:01:56 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 08:01:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DAB029C72744B36A5D7A76167A2A32A@userb38463fba5> Mike, most of my experience is with street cars. Some of that will carry over however. I'd suggest that you set the switch to the temperature you want to race at or below. You will most likely only need it on the grid or in the pits when you're tuning. Here's why I say this. The fan on a street car moves a lot of air under the hood not only to cool the radiator but also to remove the under hood hot air that can cause vapor lock, especially if you're using headers. The heat from the exhaust rises directly to the carburetor bowls and boils the gas pretty quickly. You need to move that hot air the best that you can when at rest on the grid. If you wait too long to move that air it's very hard to cool the bowls before you start to move. That's why I suggest you set the temperature at or below where you want to run during the race. Actually you may want to remember to turn it on manually on the grid no matter the temperature as you need that air movement under those conditions. Under racing conditions you will most likely not need a fan and I doubt that it would do any good at racing speeds. Also, if you have not already done so make sure to install one of Joe Alexander's Heat Shields. They provide an extra pound of protection against header heat rising. We have a foot of new snow here in Hudson, my guess is that you've heard that from your relatives back here. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 2:43 PM Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > Thanks!!!!! > > Mike Mehl From gaf3 at charter.net Sun Feb 7 06:09:50 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 08:09:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> Joe How much is the kit? I've been unable to find any info on your website or Tony's on the cost. Any plans for the next production run? Bobby Try this site, http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Seats/ReupholsteringSeats.htm (Buckeye Triumphs) for excellent how to info on rebuilding the seats. Also TRF has Seat Foams and Upholstery on sale until the 18th. Glenn n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > Glenn, > > The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of > steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. > > Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. > > Third production run just sold out. > > Joe A. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Feb 7 08:21:22 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 07:21:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B6EDA72.3000205@gmail.com> Bob Adams wrote: > Just run it on a toggle and flip it on when the motor is up to temperature. > The potential for failure is higher with a "sensor" than a toggle switch. > Umm, maybe for you but I find that my toggle switch sensor often gets distracted and might only activate the toggle switch upon sensing steam emerging from the bonnet. I find that an electrical sensor has fewer distractions and is much more reliable than the one behind the wheel. However a toggle switch in parallel to a sensor & its relay makes for a sensible backup system. I tend to set my fan sensor to activate the relay 5 to 10 degrees higher than the thermostat opening temperature. TR3 radiator caps don't have a very high pressure rating and I prefer my coolant to be in the colling system and not the catch bottle. Teriann From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 7 08:32:32 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 16:32:32 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001701caa80a$c6212240$526366c0$@com> I have my switch at the bottom of the radiator and it opens on 79 degree centigrade and stops at 74 degree centigrade. So it runs if the engine has no cooling wind and the radiator water heats up. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Mike Mehl Gesendet: Samstag, 6. Februar 2010 20:43 An: Triumph Friends of Betreff: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From s.janzen at comcast.net Sun Feb 7 08:37:44 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 10:37:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6 chromoly front stub axles Message-ID: I have the front end of the GT6 all apart, and wondering if axle upgrades are warranted, and if any particular supplier's stuff is superior, or do they all come from the same manufacturer? Are the stock stub axles prone to failure? Sent from my iPhone From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 7 08:39:47 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 10:39:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats The UJR TR6 seat conversion kit In-Reply-To: <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CC7622E9A5BE18-4988-26804@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Glenn, The next run has been scheduled and will be done in about two weeks. We have been listing them at $65 plus $10 domestic shipping. there is a picture on photobucket.com/ambro danielsonfamily.org has a nice pictorial of the installation. Hardware kit, laser blanked, formed, and powder coated, in custom box with instructions. Sean did a nice job of manufacturing engineering for Jack. Thanks! Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco To: n197tr4 at cs.com Cc: igofaster at att.net; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 7, 2010 7:09 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Joe How much is the kit? I've been unable to find any info on your website or Tony's on the cost. Any plans for the next production run? Bobby Try this site, http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Seats/ReupholsteringSeats.htm (Buckeye Triumphs) for excellent how to info on rebuilding the seats. Also TRF has Seat Foams and Upholstery on sale until the 18th. Glenn n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: Glenn, The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. Third production run just sold out. Joe A. From cak at dimebank.com Sun Feb 7 17:12:05 2010 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 16:12:05 -0800 Subject: [Fot] cleaning a Quaife? Message-ID: <4B6F56D5.1000901@dimebank.com> I've got a Quaife in my GT6+; the diff ran dry and the r&p set is ruined; there was clearly some metal floating around. I can replace everything that needs replacing, but it seems worth opening the Quaife to make sure it's squeaky clean inside, rather than re-introducing metal shards to the new parts. Is this ... as obvious as it looks? Or are there hidden springs and pawls and other wondrous things in there waiting to jump into my face and onto the floor, running to hide under the bench, never to be seen again? Thanks, chris From dos_gusanos at msn.com Mon Feb 8 11:10:03 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 11:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> References: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> Message-ID: Good Topic, I've got to do a set of seats for my TR-6.................Henry Morrison, Albuquerque > From: LimeyV8 at aol.com > Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 19:15:00 -0500 > To: igofaster at att.net; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats > > last time I bought that stuff, it was A LOT cheaper to order it from Rimmer > and pay the shipping - the original type seat covers, foam etc are coming > from England anyway > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > > > > > > In a message dated 2/6/2010 1:01:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > igofaster at att.net writes: > > Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, > and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near > $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 > with pads, and doodads... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dos_gusanos at msn.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From igofaster at att.net Mon Feb 8 17:06:11 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 16:06:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <779054.58022.qm@web180710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bob... I decided 15 years ago not to destroy it to make it a race car... I've got a GT6 in DP with CVAR here in Texas... I bit the bullet and went with the sale price seats and kits with the Roadster Factory... FREE SHIPPING and about $1200 for the seat kits, pads, bits and pieces... Thank you TO ALL who offered everything including delivery (FUQUA)... too kind... Bobby Whitehead ________________________________ From: Robert M. Lang To: Bobby Whitehead Sent: Mon, February 8, 2010 8:51:50 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Hi, There's a lot to say on this one. The bottom line is "what do YOU want". If the car's going to be a driver, get some seats in it and drive. A lot of the TR6 crowd is switching to Miata seats via conversin brackets. A lot less $$$ than refurbing the stock seats. If you're going to enter concours, then the answer should be pretty obvious. Although do your research as some of the replacement material out there will NOT be 100% concours correct. If you're going to race it, then get a really good race seat. I'm partial to Kirky but only because I've been using thier seats for 10+ years. Have fun deciding! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From horizonracing at msn.com Tue Feb 9 06:54:41 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 05:54:41 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire engine Message-ID: Hi All, I have NO $$$ interest in this !! Pacific Auto machine, renton Wa. 425 226 0930 1300 Block (freshly machined +0.20) Crank (large journal?) pistons front cover block plates rods new rings sitting on the shelf for 10+ years. $5oo obo. make any offer !! Thanks Tony From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Tue Feb 9 09:47:16 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 10:47:16 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Hello all, The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting it posted so quickly! http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ Scott B. Henry Frye Triumph Technology Consultants 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) -----Original Message----- From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 9 11:27:27 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 11:27:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <4B71A90F.20204@bradakis.com> Looks quite nice! mjb. From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Tue Feb 9 11:40:56 2010 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 10:40:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <330830.43883.qm@web111409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> EXCELLENT! Ken Suhre --- On Tue, 2/9/10, Barr, Scott wrote: > From: Barr, Scott > Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > To: "Triumph Friends of" > Date: Tuesday, February 9, 2010, 10:47 AM > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming > blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if > interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to > Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kenandtweety at yahoo.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software > specialist. From John.Reed at wilson.com Tue Feb 9 13:07:33 2010 From: John.Reed at wilson.com (John Reed) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 14:07:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: Very nice!! On 2/9/10 10:47 AM, "Scott Barr" wrote: > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as john.reed at wilson.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Regards, John Reed Global Staff Photographer Creative Services Wilson Sporting Goods Co. 8750 W Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago, Illinois 60631, USA Tel. + 1.773.714.6895, fax +1.773.714.4585 John.Reed at wilson.com www.wilson.com www.amersports.com This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this e-mail is strictly forbidden. From roadandtrack at bigpond.com Tue Feb 9 15:01:46 2010 From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 08:01:46 +1000 Subject: [Fot] chasing 4A diff mount plate In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100209220143.LZMK5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Can anyone help me find a rear diff mounting plate for a TR4A. This is the alloy part that bolts onto the diff back plate, and takes the 4 rubber mounts. They are not the same as TR250, TR6 or TR6. thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia From triumphs at consolidated.net Tue Feb 9 16:21:39 2010 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 17:21:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: Looks good! kg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barr, Scott" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:47 AM Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2677 - Release Date: 02/09/10 01:35:00 From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Feb 9 19:23:52 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 21:23:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <4B7218B8.9030504@blacksburg.net> On 2/9/2010 11:47 AM, Barr, Scott wrote: Scott, it looks terrific. Who did the artwork? Kudos to him/her. jim > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From mpendy at dishmail.net Tue Feb 9 21:06:15 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 20:06:15 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> Very nice scott................Very nice.........Mark Pendy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barr, Scott" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 8:47 AM Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Feb 10 04:29:02 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:29:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FE4@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> (Thanks but, for the record, I didn't do the artwork. One of Burt's minions put that together. I just collected your photos and sent them to Burt as fodder.) -----Original Message----- From: Mark Pendergrass [mailto:mpendy at dishmail.net] Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:06 PM To: Barr, Scott; Triumph Friends of Subject: Re: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Very nice scott................Very nice.........Mark Pendy From BillDentin at aol.com Wed Feb 10 08:10:47 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 10:10:47 EST Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Message-ID: <3de7.ff4f756.38a42677@aol.com> In a message dated 02/10/2010 6:11:06 AM Central Standard Time, sbarr at McCarty-Law.com writes: > (Thanks but, for the record, I didn't do the artwork. One of Burt's > minions put that together. I just collected your photos and sent them > to Burt as fodder.) > Long time racing photographer and scribe, Art Eastman did that artwork. And I know for a fact there is a warm spot for TRIUMPHs in his heart. Bill Dentinger From billsohl at optonline.net Wed Feb 10 10:05:07 2010 From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 12:05:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Just too much email to keep up. Message-ID: <8F6D211A67BE475D87663E387D39019C@SohlPC> FOTers, I just can't keep up anymore with the volume. Hope to return after retirement down the road at the end of 2011. Cheers and best wishes to all during the racing season for 2010 and 2011. I'll be unsubscribing after this email. Bill Sohl From BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com Wed Feb 10 19:58:29 2010 From: BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com (Bill Bartlett) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Message-ID: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Hi Gents, I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake "proportioning"? Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, or should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to work by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, where the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the rear brake line to the slaves. What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the proportioning the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master bores to start with eh? My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different length bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the peddle assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal set, put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different bushing sets for say wet and dry? Thoughts? And thank you for your time Bill PS; this is for a GT6 From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Feb 10 21:18:02 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 23:18:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Message-ID: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> Found this looking for other things. Some here may be able to identify the car. Paul http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/651640/Re_Help_ needed_with_info_on_vi From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Feb 11 06:51:25 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:51:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? In-Reply-To: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> References: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> Thanks Paul............ That's cool! Can anyone make contact with this guy? This would be a nice addition to the FOT. There are a couple of other specials floating around out there and they pop up once in awhile, but they get away. Can somebody lock on to this guy? Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Paul MacDonald To: Fot Sent: Wed, Feb 10, 2010 10:18 pm Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Found this looking for other things. Some here may be able to identify the ar. Paul http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/651640/Re_Help_ eeded_with_info_on_vi Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Thu Feb 11 08:25:26 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 10:25:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR7 speeder Message-ID: <10D367B2F0004B1583D3C816FDD47FAC@your4dacd0ea75> http://flashbackracing.com/2010/02/may-2009-%e2%80%93-the-flashback-racing-t r7-land-speed-racer-bumps-record-at-maxton-to-111-715-mph/ Also check out this organization. Sounds like a cool meet to attend.242mph bikes.. http://www.ecta-lsr.com/ Would be interesting to see some FOT cars run this. Sounds a little easier than the salt at Bonneville. Paul From herald948 at aol.com Thu Feb 11 09:03:26 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:03:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? In-Reply-To: <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> References: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC794AE14D0253-142C-4C84@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Joe, I'd be willing to do so, as I'm a member of the British Car Forum. What would you like me to do: invite him to contact you? or ???? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: macdonaldp at rogers.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2010 8:51 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Thanks Paul............ That's cool! Can anyone make contact with this guy? From jason at multivintage.com Thu Feb 11 12:47:18 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 12:47:18 -0700 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> The set up you have should be Ok for vintage. Most of the really well prepped gt6's have the dual master set up with original triumph equipment. I feel the only candidate for the tilton pedals would be like tube frame scca car or something. That's kind of a major modernization and is not in line with what the plenty fast guys like group 44 and mr. kastner did back in the day. Plus with the good racing break pads they make nowdays even a stock set up with a single master should be ok. My car has only one master and has raced on scca national level since newly built in 1970, over 100 races on the log books. Who needs brakes anyway? gt6jason Friendly Ghost Racing On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tlizzard at msn.com Thu Feb 11 16:27:17 2010 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:27:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Brake bias. In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: A single, OEM Triumph, properly sized dual bore master cylinder can be very effective indeed. And, it's simple. There is much elegance in simplicity. Terry Stetler From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 17:12:22 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:12:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: I have had some bad results with uneven brake bias.At one time I had just the proportioning valve going the the rear brakes after the rears were up graded to discs on my Tr 6 The trouble was I could never take enough psi off the rear and that was not good The tilton system is not to costly and considering the infinite adjustment from the cockpit. I would not want to be stuck with a shim adjustment. Now I can set them up as I like and don't have to settle for "there all most what I want" good luck with your decision. rob ps If you go with the tilton set up and need the sizes on the masters etc I will be happy to look them over and pass on the data I have 2 or 3 new masters that I could not use either to small or large can't remember ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Bartlett" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 9:58 PM Subject: [Fot] (no subject) > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 17:57:11 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:57:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that good a driver, so close is good enough! With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar > appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two > masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right > master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of > the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 11 18:26:42 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:26:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> Message-ID: I used two clutch masters since they were the same size as the brake master on my Mk1 Spit. The only difference was the size of the reservoir which I figured was sufficient for half the braking system and so far I have been proven correct. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 5:57 PM To: Bill Bartlett Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that good a driver, so close is good enough! With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar > appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two > masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right > master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of > the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From timmurph at fastbytes.com Thu Feb 11 20:23:53 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:23:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 20:32:31 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 22:32:31 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Selling my 1961 TR4 - definite financial interest! Message-ID: <6849739F-2D4D-460F-8021-38A4987DCFFF@comcast.net> Original, never restored, runs great, patina galore, $9700 here, more elsewhere. Incoming project, two car garage, GT6 racer stays, I'll regret it but this one has to go. Philadelphia area. Sorry to bomb the list, but I'd like to see it go to someone that will appreciate it for what it is. http://1961triumphtr4forsale.blogspot.com/2010/02/1961-triumph-tr4-for-sale.html From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 20:51:49 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:51:49 -1000 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Brake bias. In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: And a lot of lousy braking. Brakes make you go fast, if you don't get them right then most of the other stuff won't matter. To set your brakes up properly you need adjustable bias. A compensating valve only decreases the braking force applied to the rear, which might be okay if that's your problem. I like cabin adjustable bias but swapping out spacers or turning a screw works fine too. Just spend some time getting the car not to swap ends under very hard braking and you're good. You can drive around having your brakes not quite right, but why would you. Easy to do, and very cheap compared to everything else. I like having both brake cylinders the same, but that's just because it's minimal parts to carry. On Feb 11, 2010, at 1:27 PM, Terry Stetler wrote: > A single, OEM Triumph, properly sized dual bore master cylinder can be very > effective indeed. And, it's simple. > > There is much elegance in simplicity. > > > > Terry Stetler > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 20:55:22 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:55:22 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <406BD5BC-11AD-465E-8F88-53BFCB563984@bnj.com> I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 21:01:08 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 20:01:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <802456.73880.qm@web81208.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his Erson cam. I used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold with stock 1.75" SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This engine pulls like a mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in a normally aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the replacement engine for free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls the supercharged engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the supercharger and it's manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. -Ed- --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: From: Tim Murphy Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 21:08:20 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 20:08:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! Message-ID: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Gotta get one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 22:55:46 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:55:46 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Fri Feb 12 00:31:56 2010 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 02:31:56 EST Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <2035f.25a852e5.38a65dec@aol.com> Tim, I have actually seen TR 3 & 4 engines go as high as 92 mm jugs & pistons. Just make sure you don't deck the block too much. Same goes for milling the head. If you want some professional help Daryl Uprichard of Racetorations has done this quite often. Ken Gilanders probably has too so it might help to visit with them on what size fits what you are going to use the car for. I have one of Daryl's engines waiting on me to finish the body work. I elected to use the 89 mm because the 92 mm makes for some pretty narrow spaces between the jugs. Daryl ran the 92's in his race cars. As you can imagine they will significantly increase the kick in the pants when you hit the gas pedal. Especially with one of Larry's cams. Just make sure you have the right fuel pump to keep up with the demand. Of course all the other things need to be balanced as well. Needles in the carbs, intake and exhaust valve size and some decent porting and polishing on both sides make a difference. My recommendation is to gather as much info going in and then have the engine dyno tuned. You will be much more pleased that just what us mere mortals can do in the shop. Cheers, Gary In a message dated 2/11/2010 11:56:05 P.M. Central Standard Time, billb at bnj.com writes: I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gsfuqua1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 12 05:28:11 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:28:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Chris Crisenberry Message-ID: <006501caabde$d77f8b30$867ea190$@net> Please contact me off list. I hope I didn't mangle your name too badly. Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Feb 12 05:30:33 2010 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:30:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! In-Reply-To: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Best toy ever!!!! Terry Stetler ----- Original Message ----- From: EDWARD BARNARD To: FOT ; Joshua Barnard Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 11:08 PM Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! Gotta get one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tlizzard at msn.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Feb 12 08:28:24 2010 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:28:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! References: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2E2189E79D3A47D5AEDD7AB4F1793AF4@Charly> Funny, I have an Austin 1800 that sounds exactly like that if I tune the radio to the AM band. I think the generator and the spark plug leads must be in 'tune' with each other. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 BTW, congratulations to Mark York in taking 1st place points in SOVREN division 1 with his 57 TR3, Good work Mark! ----- Original Message ----- From: "EDWARD BARNARD" To: "FOT" ; "Joshua Barnard" Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! > Gotta get one! > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 09:34:44 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:34:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401702048@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <614027.46846.qm@web81203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Scott: The power it makes is not the RPM type power we get out of a Honda where you have to buzz the motor up to feel something. This is a torquey power you feel in the seat of your pants. Although it consistently pulls in the 8.5 second 0-60 times the impressive part is that you can pull away from a light in third without it shuddering (with a stock TR3 gearbox and rear end). When driving, if you want to pass you simply push the go peddle, and you can feel the grunt pull you around the other cars in a flash. It doesn't sound much different than a stock 83, 86, or 87mm car, it just honking pulls you around with authority. If building one for myself I wouldn't hesitate spending the extra few bucks. -Ed- --- On Fri, 2/12/10, Barr, Scott wrote: From: Barr, Scott Subject: RE: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: "EDWARD BARNARD" Date: Friday, February 12, 2010, 7:48 AM Hi Ed You said << This engine pulls like a mule. >> I'm just curious what that means in comparison to modern cars since I've been thinking about a possible TR4 street car project. What kind of acceleration (0-60) would this sort of set-up provide? Scott B. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD BARNARD Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 10:01 PM To: Tim Murphy Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his Erson cam. I used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold with stock 1.75" SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This engine pulls like a mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in a normally aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the replacement engine for free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls the supercharged engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the supercharger and it's manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. -Ed- --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: From: Tim Murphy Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 09:55:57 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:55:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <02.F1.04431.E18757B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <802753.4238.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Randall: Although I left everything down below stock, I'm sure the car could really come to life with some head work. We're talking stock rods and crank with a stock high port head with stock manifolds and carbs, atop a stock block. The Babe Erson cam (Larry wasn't doing his cams yet), with Ken's 89mm kit and Joe's lightened flywheel. The block needed no relieving at all. The car is here in Texas so cooling was a fear, but, not a problem after all. I did my normal mods...stock TR3 cooling fan with a modern stlye (non-sleeve) 160 degree thermostat and the bypass pipe in the thermostat housing blocked off to 1/4". The car has never showed signs of getting above the half way point on the gauge even in the summer. This car can show in concourse because none of the mods take away from the look of a stock "3" -Ed- --- On Fri, 2/12/10, Randall wrote: From: Randall Subject: RE: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: "'EDWARD BARNARD'" Date: Friday, February 12, 2010, 9:47 AM Thanks for the info, Ed. I'm planning something similar myself, except with a little headwork; 4-2-1 exhaust & Larry Young's street cam; so it's good to hear it works out. Ken seemed a little worried about cooling with the 89s on the street. Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD BARNARD > Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:01 PM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 > > Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his > Erson cam. I > used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold > with stock 1.75" > SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This > engine pulls like a > mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson > supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept > refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in > a normally > aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the > replacement engine for > free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls > the supercharged > engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the > supercharger and it's > manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. > -Ed- > > --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: > > > From: Tim Murphy > Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 > To: fot at autox.team.net > Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov > Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM > > > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 > TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged > pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or > 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that > would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already > put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust > manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams > for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the > CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to > 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Fri Feb 12 16:07:11 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Terry and Cindy) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:07:11 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some jag top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 12 16:17:41 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 18:17:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> Wish I could drive my car well enough to recognize a need to make a bias change on the next lap. My in car camera is new last season and my braking is way to early, not even close to lock up on entering. and I'm to easy getting back to the gas on exit. The camera is great because I can see so much room for improvement. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Bill Bartlett" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 7:57 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) > My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel > comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters > - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a > little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting > assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton > bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. > I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts > lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at > the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, > etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that > good a driver, so close is good enough! > With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether > the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in > the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. > > > On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett > wrote: >> Hi Gents, >> I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake >> "proportioning"? >> Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front > and >> rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from > the >> cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear > brakes, >> or >> should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar >> appears to >> work >> by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two >> masters, >> where >> the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru > the >> rear brake line to the slaves. >> What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the >> proportioning >> the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right >> master >> bores >> to start with eh? >> My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different >> length >> bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of >> the >> peddle >> assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable > pedal >> set, >> put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different >> bushing >> sets for say wet and dry? >> Thoughts? >> And thank you for your time >> Bill >> PS; this is for a GT6 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 17:01:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 14:01:08 -1000 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 12 17:26:39 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:26:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> Message-ID: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how we learned to be better drivers? rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. Usually these kind of turns are fiddly things, and there's not a great deal of time to be made up by doing them better, but proper brake bias adjustment is important for the big high speed turns so you can get the braking done, get back on the gas and push the nose into the turn. You won't feel the bias problem there, but if your car has unbalanced braking you won't be able to get through the turn anywhere near as fast. Ultimately mid corner speed is where all the lap time improvements come from, and the only way to get there is balanced braking and getting the car settled. = From jhassall at blacksburg.net Fri Feb 12 18:51:13 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:51:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <4B760591.3030304@blacksburg.net> On 2/11/2010 10:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: Tim, I installed a set in my autox / street TR4. The pistons were much lighter (sorry, no access to the engine build log at the moment, so can't quantify "much") and came w/Deves rings. What's not to like? I ported and cc'd the head and shaved it to 10.0:1, which works fine with what passes for premium pump gas. The cam is an Isky 777. With all those bits, and 40 DCOEs that are waaaay too rich at the moment, I can light the tires in second gear. Hehehe I forgot to mention that I'm also running BFE's oversize and gas-flowed valves (Ken's valves were almost too pretty to install). This engine pumps some *serious* air! While you're working on your engine, why not have the crank nitrided (I'm assuming you're using a stock crank). Shaftech did mine, and it now rings like a bell. jim > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From horizonracing at msn.com Fri Feb 12 22:04:27 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:04:27 -0800 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: Rob, I started young; Cooper 500 at 15, Mini Cooper at 18, Formula Ford at 21 in NZ, Aust & Europe. Now raced 64 Different Race cars at 56 different tracks. mostly vintage type cars as that is what I enjoy the most! Tires are skinny and the driver is fat. There is no one way to get better, But it starts with a "Great" Driving school. Not some noddy playschool toys but Real race cars with real race drivers as tutors. Go watch a local Sprint/midget car race! Pavement or dirt. Take notes of the starts & restarts. Find some buddy's and get your own indoor go karting league going. 3 x 1 hour races a night per month or more! "Seat time". Inter car club races usually gets the Blood flowing ;) Get somebody "really Good" to test your car. Not to break it, but to set it up and set a bench mark for you. This is important ! I do this a lot for folks in Vintage and it's usually the real simple things that can turn a car around from a pig to a nice enjoyable ride. I hope I haven't come across too conceited, and if I have...... blame Bill Babcock ;) Cheers Tony > From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > To: billb at bnj.com; fot at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:26:39 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) > > Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how > we learned to be better drivers? rob From timmurph at fastbytes.com Fri Feb 12 22:24:09 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 23:24:09 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Thanks for all of the input. I'm still in the planning stages on this so will have to consider all the info. I'm thinking, seeing as how we don't have unlimited funds to do everything, that we might get more bang for the buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Reducing that stock inertia will have huge dividends in response and get more torque to the rear wheels instead of trying to get that thing rotating. We are planning to at least clean all of the casting slag out of the head ports. The car is in storage right now in Mequon in my daughters garage (about 50 miles south of me) and I'm not even sure which head and intake manifold it has on it, other than I'm sure it's stock. Ryan is the second owner and bought the car from my late friend Art Last before he passed away. That was about 10 years ago. And I know Art didn't do any serious engine work. Are there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? I think that's the one with the flat on the manifold side by #1. It's what we have on the race car and I think we have another spare. We've also got a spare "long runner" intake manifold as used on the race car. We really appreciate the info on compression ratio and octane. Really don't want the hassle of adding octane booster and there aren't any stations in our immediate area that sell race gas. I don't even think it's illegal to put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. If I remember correctly, that's how the law was originally stated, that it was illegal to put leaded gas in a car with a catalyst. Thanks again. Will continue to look for any further info from the Amici and will post when I come up with a plan and see what the folks think. Tim From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 22:49:37 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:49:37 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> References: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Message-ID: <02B37C05-0A89-4757-BC24-F1ADBA7F4372@bnj.com> There's lots of unleaded race gas, not illegal to add it, and it gives a lot bigger octane boost than the math says it would. Someone told me why once, but I forget. That said, I'd go for displacement and low compression--cheapest way to power. Higher compression stresses everything. Keep it simple, a mild cam so all your gas doesn't go out the exhaust, big pistons, and blueprint everything and you'll have a great motor. Definitely get the crank nitrided. I'll probably use Mikuni Solex carbs because I have a set. All you really need to do for the ports is match everything up and clean off the really rough spots. Don't get carried away, unless you have a flow bench and know how to use it to gain flow, you WON'T improve anything. I have a TR3 "kit" in my shop that I need to build. I'll be doing it exactly that way. Nice chesty motor, good electrics, quaife rear end (I've already got one), and a blueprinted stock gearbox with overdrive (have that too). Do all the suspension mods to make it handle, good brakes, and bob's yer uncle. On Feb 12, 2010, at 7:24 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Thanks for all of the input. I'm still in the planning stages on this so > will have to consider all the info. I'm thinking, seeing as how we don't > have unlimited funds to do everything, that we might get more bang for the > buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Reducing > that stock inertia will have huge dividends in response and get more torque > to the rear wheels instead of trying to get that thing rotating. We are > planning to at least clean all of the casting slag out of the head ports. > The car is in storage right now in Mequon in my daughters garage (about 50 > miles south of me) and I'm not even sure which head and intake manifold it > has on it, other than I'm sure it's stock. Ryan is the second owner and > bought the car from my late friend Art Last before he passed away. That was > about 10 years ago. And I know Art didn't do any serious engine work. Are > there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? I think > that's the one with the flat on the manifold side by #1. It's what we have > on the race car and I think we have another spare. We've also got a spare > "long runner" intake manifold as used on the race car. > > > > We really appreciate the info on compression ratio and octane. Really don't > want the hassle of adding octane booster and there aren't any stations in > our immediate area that sell race gas. I don't even think it's illegal to > put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. If I remember > correctly, that's how the law was originally stated, that it was illegal to > put leaded gas in a car with a catalyst. > > > > Thanks again. Will continue to look for any further info from the Amici and > will post when I come up with a plan and see what the folks think. > > > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 23:59:24 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:59:24 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <7A23FE1E-5489-402F-91EA-98EF14D59250@bnj.com> Hmm--I blabbed too much--it bounced. Two pieces: Tony's a hell of a good driver, but I'm not taking responsibility for his attitude. I don't consider myself a good racer. I think I used to be an okay motorcycle racer, but my reflexes are nothing like they used to be. I have to drive cars within the boundaries of my current capabilities and I think I do that OK. I can tell you what I did. I raced motorcycles from age 17 (1965) until I was about 30. 1/2 mile, TT, and mile when I was a kid, added motocross and a little roadracing when I got older. I started driving cars about 25 years ago with a Rabbit in SCCA and ICSSC races. The car was the previous year's Northwest champ, and it had just been bought by my boss at the software company I worked for--who promptly broke it. He wanted to race but had the mechanical sympathy of a goat. I wrenched in return for using the car out of class. Did that for a few years and got the bug. I went from that to vintage. Did a Bondurant school, and then did a bunch of ICSSC and SCCA schools just for the teaching and track time--already had the license. Raced my TR3 until someone decided to take a serious look at it (not much was legal) and bought Peyote in 1999. I felt I wasn't getting enough track time to progress, so I bought a Radical DSR car and raced it in SCCA and ICSSC. Pretty much raced every weekend of the race season for a few years, switching back and forth between Peyote and the Radical. more... From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 00:00:20 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:00:20 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> the rest... Driving a really fast DSR car competitively made me a lot better driver than a whole bunch of seat time in a vintage car or a Rabbit. You can't make silly mistakes in a wings and slicks car that does lap times in the range of Formula Atlantics. You have to hustle the car, you have to get the brake points right, you have to get used to going through a turn at a couple of Gs and clipping the apex within an inch every lap. Screw up and it's off the track, end of story. Won the Northwest Regional Championship in 2001. Sold the Radical when the Stohrs came out and made it obsolete. Still race Peyote. I think if you want to be a good driver you need to learn to hustle a car. To push it a little harder in the corners and get your exit speed up. Seat time is important, but if you aren't pushing, and you're not analyzing what you're doing then it doesn't do much but wear out parts. I see people get stalled at a certain point in their driving and never get past it. That's fine if you're comfortable with that, but if you like to push yourself then there's always another second to pick up. The difference between first and tenth in a vintage race is usually about 5-6 seconds. Half a second per corner. You should be able to feel the front end in a corner, feel what happens when you ease off the steering pressure to reduce understeer. Feel the back end traction and how much you can push with the throttle to get the car to rotate. You need to play with that stuff in practice and on test and tune days to really understand the dynamics of your car. And you need to learn to drive around problems. I find myself not paying enough attention to break points, turn in, and keeping the car balance. When you do that you need to give yourself a good slap and get back on the program. With enough experience you should be able to work out how deep you can go in a corner without running off the track or spinning. Most times you won't really be at the edge, but you can get fairly close with a vintage car, because the edge isn't that far out there--skinny tires and horse cart suspension ensures that. I also find it's important to get to tracks you're not experienced with, and push yourself at learning them. Makes you better everywhere. Confidence in your equipment helps a lot too. Peyote is a good car that's been made steadily more reliable and sound. I expect it to be really good this year since Tony is doing the prep work. I still give the brakes a quick pump coming into a fast turn. I could be a tiny bit quicker if I didn't do that. If silly things are breaking, or you don't have confidence in your brakes, or you're afraid an axle might break or your steering might fail, then you just can't go fast. The fast way through a big corner is to hold the throttle to the floor until the last microsecond, get on the brakes and stay on them at the limits of traction, ease off the brakes as you turn in, keeping the car balanced, be off the brakes completely before the apex and be rolling on the throttle to keep the car rotating, be at full throttle at the apex. Nick the edge of the track with your outside rear wheel because that's the only place that physics will allow the car to be. Lather, rinse, repeat. If you don't do that, you are not anywhere near the edge, because the edge is a ways past that. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 00:13:38 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:13:38 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> References: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> Message-ID: <699816E2-2D29-4CA0-BAD8-DC7D552E06B2@bnj.com> You can't just gain caster with a balljoint change--it will place a bind on the trunnion. Peyote has 3 degrees of caster using TR6 parts--nice to have. Clearly what you got is a TR3/4 trunnion. I got mine from Moss and they were fine. On Feb 12, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Terry and Cindy wrote: > I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had > zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, > its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. > Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? > > Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the > vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie > rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match > with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) > TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). > > Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some jag > top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. > > > Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com Sat Feb 13 09:25:30 2010 From: BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com (Bill Bartlett) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 11:25:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] improved Driving In-Reply-To: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D31148C@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> HI Rob, Well said Bill Babcock, I enjoy vintage racing my MGA Coupe and Lotus 7, but it was not until I started racing a Lotus 51 Formula Ford (Vintage of course) that I got a comparative of just where I was in the pack. I quickly realized how important correct braking really was. It is far easier exiting a corner, then entering it, and after all the entering is really what sets up the exiting. I had a great race with Jesse Prather at VIR once, Jesse in a B and I in the Lotus 7. One would expect the 7 to lead and true to the cars capabilities I would create a nice lead coming out of the corners but Jesse always closed the gap at the end of the straights - a great fight, with the better car winning. But what about the driving? When I started racing the 51 it was immediately apparent that I was leaving way too much at the end of the straights. My race with Jesse came to mind (perhaps I should say lesson) and I immediately started decreasing the break point until I pissed my pants at the end every straight. The 51 is a real race car and as such I am learning about set up and the delicate balance of running a car UP on the tires, while keeping my eyes well down the track. What does this have to do with Triumphs? Well I am banging away on a GT6 and hope to be running with the B's again perhaps mid season. :) Bill -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:27 PM To: Bill Babcock; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how we learned to be better drivers? rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. Usually these kind of turns are fiddly things, and there's not a great deal of time to be made up by doing them better, but proper brake bias adjustment is important for the big high speed turns so you can get the braking done, get back on the gas and push the nose into the turn. You won't feel the bias problem there, but if your car has unbalanced braking you won't be able to get through the turn anywhere near as fast. Ultimately mid corner speed is where all the lap time improvements come from, and the only way to get there is balanced braking and getting the car settled. = Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as billbartlett at wingnutracing.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 13 10:43:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:43:20 -0800 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> References: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Message-ID: > we might get more bang for the > buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Yes! I've currently got a Fidanza alloy wheel behind a nearly stock TR3 motor, and I love it. > Are there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? Yes, but that's almost certainly what you have. "Low port" heads were only found on TR2 and early TR3. See http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_heads.htm for more info. > I don't even think it's illegal to > put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. I believe it is illegal to drive it on the street though, unless you can find race gas that has had the road taxes paid on it. Randall From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Feb 13 12:15:11 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:15:11 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> Message-ID: <000901caace0$df8fde80$9eaf9b80$@com> I have a good indicator if I'm fast or not: If I feel comfortable then I'm slow. So I have to jump over that comfort limit and get the car on the tippy toes....then it is sailing through corners really fast. Cheers Chris (Bill - I like your explanations) From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 17:09:39 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100213.190448.9971.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> References: <20100213.190448.9971.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <468FEF85-F1CB-4867-BC75-24EBCEC08E39@bnj.com> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least of the problems. On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Bill Babcock > To: Terry and Cindy > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries > Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:13:38 -1000 > > You can't just gain caster with a balljoint change--it will place a bind on > the trunnion. Peyote has 3 degrees of caster using TR6 parts--nice to have. > > Clearly what you got is a TR3/4 trunnion. I got mine from Moss and they were > fine. > > > On Feb 12, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Terry and Cindy wrote: > >> I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had >> zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, >> its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. >> Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? >> >> Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the >> vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie >> rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match >> with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) >> TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). >> >> Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some > jag >> top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. >> >> >> Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=pX-dIceZhFclW1sFjuEyTQAAJz43 aog8pNplkPMflQ6BI_PmAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 17:39:04 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:39:04 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> References: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Bill Babcock > To: "Joe Boruch" > Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries > Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 > > I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least of the problems. > > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > >> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 13 20:12:48 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:12:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Message-ID: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something here? I would use them on a TR3... Best, M Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 13 20:29:54 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:29:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? Message-ID: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M From britbits at netzero.net Sat Feb 13 21:08:44 2010 From: britbits at netzero.net (britbits at netzero.net) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 04:08:44 GMT Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Message-ID: <20100213.220844.14107.0@webmail17.dca.untd.com> Mark, Run the ARP part number past the folks at summit racing (www.summitracing.com). They can get all the ARP part numbers, even though they don't list them in their catalog. Typically 25% to 50% cheaper than the usual LBC suppliers. The last time I picked up head stud sets for a 1500 Spitfire they were $55. NFI. Let us know what they say. Cheers, Jim Dallas Too many toys, not enough time ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Mark Eginton To: "fot at autox.team.net" Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:12:48 -0500 Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something here? I would use them on a TR3... Best, M Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0 QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Small Business Tools Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/c?cp=GDFdGPkQOVXbnvY48VkkWwAAJ1GU 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARMQAAAAA= From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Feb 13 22:22:52 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 23:22:52 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> I've been getting them from some Jap car tuner site for about that. http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/arp-206-4207 - Tony Drews At 09:12 PM 2/13/2010, Mark Eginton wrote: >Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something >here? I would use them on a TR3... > >Best, > >M > >Click here > > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 23:00:41 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:00:41 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads done with hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My vincent still has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. On Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." > > Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. > > Best, > > M > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From cwnfot at gmail.com Sun Feb 14 06:38:47 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:38:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> Check with Ted Schumacher on ARP, if he doesn't join in here on his own! I try to give Ted a shot at all parts I buy. Gotta support our own! (Hi Ted!) Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Sun Feb 14 06:48:07 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:48:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> References: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <4B77FF17.4060309@cfl.rr.com> Joe, I am in the middle of installing TR4A/TR6 front suspension on my TR3. Here is what I am using: Upper fulcrum pins are the same. Uncle Jack shortened TR4A/TR6 upper control arms. Vertical link is TR4A/TR6. TR6 ball joint. Trunnion is TR4A/TR6. Lower control arms are TR4A/TR6. I also discovered that the nylatron kit (supplied by BFE) that fits the upper inner TR4A/TR6 control arms also fits the lower TR4A/TR6 inner control arms and the stainless steel sleeve fits the lower TR3 fulcrum pins. The upper and lower fulcrum pins measure the same diameter and same length on the TR3. Bob Davis Bill Babcock wrote: > I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't > recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can > put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I > don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an > inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written > down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > > >> Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit >> > on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: Bill Babcock >> To: "Joe Boruch" >> Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries >> Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 >> >> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed >> > that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least > of the problems. > >> On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: >> >> >>> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at >>> > it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That > would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 14 06:56:42 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:56:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CC7B94ABC92517-6CB4-1301A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> the worst that i have seen is mild valve recession. joe a -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Mark Eginton Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 12:00 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads done ith hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My vincent till has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. n Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve o unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage otorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on his engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like o use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage ither. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 07:52:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:52:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" Message-ID: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews From 58tr3a at videotron.ca Sun Feb 14 07:53:07 2010 From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:53:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <86FF551C12994793BFC4622AC67D56F9@elliott7455dae> I rebuilt the engine for my 1958 TR3A in 1988 during my restoration from 1987 to 1990. It had 80,300 miles on it from new. I decided I'd run an experiment. I would drive it on un-leaded fuel till I needed to put in valve seat inserts. I use my TR for normal touring, sometimes for long trips and at high speed on major roads. I drove 40,000 miles on my rebuilt head with un-leaded high-octane pump fuel and no additives. Some of the valves were still the original ones. Starting about 35,000 miles after the re-build, I noticed that I needed to re-gap my exhaust valves more frequently. At 40,000 miles, the gaps for the exhaust valves had dropped from 0.012" down to 0.002" in only 2,000 miles. Then I had to re-gap them every 1,000 miles. So, in 2000, with 43,000 miles on the head since 1990, I decided to have valve seat inserts installed. Some of the valves were razor sharp around the edges. The seats had recessed upwards (valve seat recession) about 1/32" into the cast iron head. It was time. I bought 8 new valves and 8 new valve guides. I had an engine re-build shop do the work. I had him put the inserts in the head for the 4 exhaust valves. Since 2000 when I had this done, I've driven 59 ,000 touring miles and even though I check the valve gaps every 5,000 miles, I've only had to adjust two or three gaps a few times. Each time, it's been a different valve. And this is only a few thou when I have to do it. So it was a really a good decision to have them done. Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads > done > with hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My > vincent > still has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > >> As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a >> valve > to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage > motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be > safe on > this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I > like > to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage > either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." >> >> Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. >> >> Best, >> >> M >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 58tr3a at videotron.ca > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 14 08:02:06 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:02:06 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001001caad86$adca7530$095f5f90$@com> I am carrying a spare with me since year 2005. Since then nothing did break anymore. Maybe it's a good spell on it. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Tony Drews Gesendet: Sonntag, 14. Februar 2010 15:52 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 14 08:54:32 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 07:54:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question Message-ID: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. I guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it really worth the cost and effort to convert? "Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" From billsohl at optonline.net Sun Feb 14 09:13:59 2010 From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:13:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? Message-ID: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Sorry to bomb the list, but I must not have the latest process correct to unsubscribe. I sent an email with unsubscribe as the subject, but that was several days ago and I am still getting emails. Thanks for any help. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 14 09:29:12 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:29:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <002501caad92$d88e37f0$89aaa7d0$@net> This pops up every now and then. My dad wrote an article that is now on the VTR website regarding valve seat recession. It used to be kept on the Team.Net site. See: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.shtml Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Eginton Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 10:30 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as dmitchel at sbcglobal.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 09:31:36 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 06:31:36 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question In-Reply-To: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You certainly can use just a fluid bias--lots of race cars use them. They seem to work better on more modern cars. It's really a matter of what you get used to. Fluid bias adjusters restrict the fluid to the rear brakes, so you generally use a lot more pedal pressure to stop. I used one in the Rabbit I raced, and it was finicky compared to a bias bar, but it worked. I think I fiddled with it a lot more than I do with a bias bar, but that might just be me. On Feb 14, 2010, at 5:54 AM, Mark Vanlake wrote: > Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times > from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current > question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster > and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake > cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit > pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, > you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level > where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > > I > guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel > master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid > bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it > really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > > "Experience is that marvelous > thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sun Feb 14 09:31:48 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? In-Reply-To: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> References: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Message-ID: <4B782574.7070408@twcny.rr.com> Every so often someone writes complaining about the emails. There is another option that works great. Every month you get a notification from "autox.team.net mailing list memberships reminder". At the bottom is a link to your "options". Years ago I unchecked the box that sends emails. Now I am still a member and can browse the archives and catch up on the latest - at my leisure but my email is not stuffed daily. Make yourself a desktop shortcut to http://autox.team.net/pipermail/fot/ It takes you directly to the archives and in an hour you can see what happened last month... Consider the option to keep in touch without all the emails. Works great for me... M From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Feb 14 10:14:51 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (rkramer3 at austin.rr.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 17:14:51 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> I have been filling the cavity inside the TRF provided rear mount with silicone, a little at a time to completely fill the cavity, emulating the gel shock absorbtion found in running shoes. This is done with the hope that the silocone will absorb some harmonics at the same time as adding some extra adhersion to the rubber and metal parts. It has worked for a couple of years. I use the little angle pieces on the sides to keep it from squeezing out. Bob Kramer ---- Tony Drews wrote: > What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from > breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the > big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem > to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off > of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tony Drews > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rkramer3 at austin.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 10:18:36 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 07:18:36 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> References: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> Message-ID: <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> I use solid front mounts and a standard rear mount. I like Bob's approach--I'll have to try that. Solid mounts make the car a little buzzier, but I don't have to worry about breaking engine mounts. With Joe's aluminum front plate the vibration is damped quite a bit. On Feb 14, 2010, at 7:14 AM, wrote: > I have been filling the cavity inside the TRF provided rear mount with silicone, a little at a time to completely fill the cavity, emulating the gel shock absorbtion found in running shoes. This is done with the hope that the silocone will absorb some harmonics at the same time as adding some extra adhersion to the rubber and metal parts. It has worked for a couple of years. I use the little angle pieces on the sides to keep it from squeezing out. > > Bob Kramer > > ---- Tony Drews wrote: >> What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from >> breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the >> big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem >> to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off >> of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? >> >> Thanks in advance... >> >> Tony Drews >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as rkramer3 at austin.rr.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:19:52 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:19:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> Message-ID: <4B7830B8.3070009@bright.net> Clark, thanks. Yes, we can supply the full line of ARP. Please call with needs. Ted Clark W. Nicholls wrote: > Check with Ted Schumacher on ARP, if he doesn't join in here on his own! > I try to give Ted a shot at all parts I buy. Gotta support our own! > > (Hi Ted!) > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:40:12 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B78357C.1010109@bright.net> Mark, your machinist is correct. Our machine shop does several hundred heads a year, including about 100 each year for us (MG, TR3 - TR8, Healey, etc.) With this kind of statistical universe, we see very little recession. Occasionally yes, but in the minority. We always use stainless exhaust valves on all heads except TR7 and TR8 - they were already fully no-lead compatible. Ted Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a > valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including > vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I > would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when > an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has > never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." > > Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. > > Best, > > M > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Sun Feb 14 10:46:38 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:46:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <4B77FF17.4060309@cfl.rr.com> Message-ID: <765515.92038.qm@web81206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Group: One of the questions asked and not yet addressed is the spring pan. When putting the TR6 suspension to a TR3 you need to retain the TR3 spring pan. The TR3 shock tower protrudes out from the chassis more than the TR6 tower, so the TR3 spring pan has a deeper cut-out on the inboard side. A TR6 spring pan will foul the shock tower on a TR3 chassis. Anyone need some TR6 spring pans? I have leftovers from doing many suspension conversions. Thanks - Ed --- On Sun, 2/14/10, Bob wrote: From: Bob Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Date: Sunday, February 14, 2010, 7:48 AM Joe, I am in the middle of installing TR4A/TR6 front suspension on my TR3. Here is what I am using: Upper fulcrum pins are the same. Uncle Jack shortened TR4A/TR6 upper control arms. Vertical link is TR4A/TR6. TR6 ball joint. Trunnion is TR4A/TR6. Lower control arms are TR4A/TR6. I also discovered that the nylatron kit (supplied by BFE) that fits the upper inner TR4A/TR6 control arms also fits the lower TR4A/TR6 inner control arms and the stainless steel sleeve fits the lower TR3 fulcrum pins. The upper and lower fulcrum pins measure the same diameter and same length on the TR3. Bob Davis Bill Babcock wrote: > I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't > recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can > put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I > don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an > inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written > down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > > >> Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit >> > on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: Bill Babcock >> To: "Joe Boruch" >> Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries >> Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 >> >> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed >> > that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least > of the problems. > >> On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: >> >> >>> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at >>> > it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That > would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:45:48 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:45:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4B7836CC.4000300@bright.net> Tony, very easy to fix. Convert to a late model TR6/Spitfire mount set-up. They use 2 rubber stud on each end mounts that are on an angle. So the side forces don't drag the mount across the flat bottom plate as OE TR mount but rather drive the mount into angle bracket, absorbing forces rather than tearing mount loose. Ted Tony Drews wrote: > What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from > breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the > big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to > remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of > the mount too. What works and what doesn't? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tony Drews > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From malaboge at aol.com Sun Feb 14 13:23:47 2010 From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:23:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CC7BCABF3A6C40-5F34-1808E@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Can you say rubber baby buggy bumpers...me neither My trick is to drill two holes down thru the trans crossmember in line with the two trans to mount holes. Make the new holes a bit bigger than the mounting holes. Use treaded rod long enuf to go thru the trans, thru the mount and down thru the two new holes. Use two nuts on each rod to secure the trans to the mount. Use a nylock (with a big washer) so that it is just "snug" against the bottom of the crossmember. Since the holes in the crossmember are larger than the treaded rod, it will allow some "normal" movement to occur on the trans mount...but will arrest any excessive movement...including that dreaded abrupt stop when your car comes to an unexpected stop! tongue-tied in Nor Cal Nick -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 6:52 am Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews _______________________________________________ From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 14:02:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:02:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question In-Reply-To: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100214210236.90BA618764B@autox.team.net> We ran the TR-6 setup on a TR-4 for a while. I don't remember if we had the vacuum assist or not, I think we did. The problem we had was that it was hard to modulate the brakes. You could brake pretty hard and do it well, but when you get to the point of lockup it was too easy to lock a wheel and too hard to unlock the wheel. When we went to dual master cylinders without the power booster, I could brake later, harder and not lock front wheels. - Tony Drews At 09:54 AM 2/14/2010, Mark Vanlake wrote: >Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times >from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current >question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster >and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake >cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit >pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, >you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level >where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > >I >guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel >master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid >bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it >really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > >"Experience is that marvelous >thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gasket.works at gte.net Sun Feb 14 14:08:30 2010 From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:08:30 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" Message-ID: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I had a company make a rectangular piece of urethane of ?durometer (I can't recall). About three foot legnth minimum order. It was pliable yet tough and machinable. I dissasembled the std rear mount and used the upper and lower steel parts sandwiching the urethane between. Had to do a little bit of trickery to isolate the top from the bottom but, that was nearly 10 years ago. Not a peep out of it. M Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 14:13:47 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:13:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim .net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <20100214211410.46D47187656@autox.team.net> How did you adhere it to the upper / lower steel parts of the standard rear mount? - Tony At 03:08 PM 2/14/2010, gasket.works at gte.net wrote: >I had a company make a rectangular piece of urethane of ?durometer >(I can't recall). About three foot legnth minimum order. It was >pliable yet tough and machinable. I dissasembled the std rear mount >and used the upper and lower steel parts sandwiching the urethane >between. Had to do a little bit of trickery to isolate the top from >the bottom but, that was nearly 10 years ago. Not a peep out of it. > >M >Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sun Feb 14 14:59:45 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 07:59:45 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <699816E2-2D29-4CA0-BAD8-DC7D552E06B2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Thanks Bill, but I don't think you understand my questions I don't have a early trunnion. I have the later one that takes a bolt, not has a pin in it. As far as I remember , all the early ones used a built in pivot pin and they have zero caster. I have 1 brand new STANPART trunion and everything lines up fine on 1 side of the car. It has 3 degress caster machined into it. I got a replacment TR6 trunion and nothing lines up as its wrongly machined, close to 0 degrees caster. Changing to a jag top ball joint used to be a common racer trick and does not seem to unduly stress the trunnion. It is only 0.110" narrower so you put a spacer on 1 side to push it further back against the rear top wishbone, and get more caster. I was wanting to know if others are still doing this and if the extra caster was beneficial with modern street tyres No-one seems to be able to answer my question about the differences with the various steeering arms Thanks Terry From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 14 16:13:06 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:13:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question Message-ID: <954227.38611.qm@web111005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Thanks for all the suggestions. I would like to know where the twin master cylinder units can be purchased and what bore did you use? Is there a nice setup that has the balancer bar included, and compatible with the TR-6 mounts. Thanks again. Happy Mardi-Gras from New Orleans! ________________________________ From: Tony Drews To: Mark Vanlake ; FOT LIST Sent: Sun, February 14, 2010 3:02:13 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question We ran the TR-6 setup on a TR-4 for a while. I don't remember if we had the vacuum assist or not, I think we did. The problem we had was that it was hard to modulate the brakes. You could brake pretty hard and do it well, but when you get to the point of lockup it was too easy to lock a wheel and too hard to unlock the wheel. When we went to dual master cylinders without the power booster, I could brake later, harder and not lock front wheels. - Tony Drews At 09:54 AM 2/14/2010, Mark Vanlake wrote: >Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times >from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current >question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster >and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake >cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit >pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, >you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level >where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > >I >guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel >master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid >bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it >really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > >"Experience is that marvelous >thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 16:47:11 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:47:11 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> References: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Message-ID: <17F42D19-006C-4E1E-8954-020E63CF9549@bnj.com> The ones I got from Moss were listed as late TR4 and they had a pin and 3 degrees of camber. Take a look at the moss parts catalog for TR3/4. Part number part number 661-450 and -460 three degree caster right and left. The zero degree trunnion is the same for both sides. The proper upper arms are 661-050 and -060 and they use the through-bolted ball joint. these parts are all listed as late TR4 parts. The TR6 parts do show a different trunnion with a bolt, specified left and right hand which indicates caster built in, but the angle isn't specified. I assume 3 degrees. I know the jag ball joint trick, it adds about a degree, and it causes binding on the trunnion if you have a good one. Maybe a loose one would be OK. At one time I tried adjusting the upper arms (heim joints, not standard bits) differentially to do the same thing and got binding at less than a degree with old trunnions. The binding got better or worse as the suspension was bumped, so I decided it wasn't a great idea. I hate it when my steering doesn't work. Caster shouldn't have much effect on tires, especially small amounts. It induces a little bit of camber and toe at extremes of travel, but that has little to do with tire performance since we just don't spend much time there. As far as steering arms go, I can't answer your question. I had to have arms made to do what I wanted to do, which was to eliminate bump steer and manage camber gain. I consider the stock suspension parts to be raw materials. On Feb 14, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Enquiries wrote: > Thanks Bill, but I don't think you understand my questions > > I don't have a early trunnion. I have the later one that takes a bolt, not > has a pin in it. As far as I remember , all the early ones used a built in > pivot pin and they have zero caster. > > I have 1 brand new STANPART trunion and everything lines up fine on 1 side > of the car. It has 3 degress caster machined into it. > > I got a replacment TR6 trunion and nothing lines up as its wrongly machined, > close to 0 degrees caster. > > Changing to a jag top ball joint used to be a common racer trick and does > not seem to unduly stress the trunnion. It is only 0.110" narrower so you > put a spacer on 1 side to push it further back against the rear top > wishbone, and get more caster. I was wanting to know if others are still > doing this and if the extra caster was beneficial with modern street tyres > > No-one seems to be able to answer my question about the differences with the > various steeering arms > > Thanks > > Terry From timmurph at fastbytes.com Sun Feb 14 18:14:39 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 19:14:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000601caaddc$5d170300$17450900$@com> The mount that came with the car had been modified with a pivot pin between the upper and lower sections with some free play fore and aft also. At least it appears to have been modified, I don't this is the stock mount. This allows the engine/transmission to rotate a bit and allows for any slight fore and aft movement. The bottom portion that the pivot pin rides in sits on a rubber pad that is riveted, I think, to the large piece that bolts to the frame. Seems to work. I'll send some photos to you Tony. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 8:52 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 14 19:18:56 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:18:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" NOW speaking of alloy engine mounts In-Reply-To: <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> References: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CC7BFC5CA5FCE3-F04-14C6C@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com> We just ran production runs of TR3/4/TR6/SPITFIRE alloy engine plates. Check in for special FOT pricing...I'd like to move some inventory. Thanks! Joe -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 11:18 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" I use solid front mounts and a standard rear mount. I like Bob's pproach--I'll have to try that. Solid mounts make the car a little buzzier, ut I don't have to worry about breaking engine mounts. With Joe's aluminum ront plate the vibration is damped quite a bit. From invite+26a_t046 at facebookmail.com Sun Feb 14 19:29:22 2010 From: invite+26a_t046 at facebookmail.com (Kevin Lynch) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 18:29:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Message-ID: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> Hi Fot, I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. Thanks, Kevin To sign up for Facebook, follow the link below: http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=1618582156&k=ZYDT3VUZPXTFYEBGQA6YW5PQUSAC6TZB &r Already have an account? Add this email address to your account http://www.facebook.com/n/?merge_accounts.php&e=fot at autox.team.net&c=27b827d7 ad8928fcbbaef31b4330d242.fot at autox.team.net was invited to join Facebook by Kevin Lynch. If you do not wish to receive this type of email from Facebook in the future, please click on the link below to unsubscribe. http://www.facebook.com/o.php?k=74f522&u=1676703056&mid=1e2aeb0G63f07550G0G8 Facebook's offices are located at 1601 S. California Ave., Palo Alto, CA 94304. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sun Feb 14 19:57:07 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:57:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? In-Reply-To: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> References: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Message-ID: What's face book? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Sohl" To: "FOT" Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 11:13 AM Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? > Sorry to bomb the list, but I must not have the latest process correct to > unsubscribe. > > I sent an email with unsubscribe as the subject, but that was several days > ago and I am still getting emails. > > Thanks for any help. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From cwnfot at gmail.com Mon Feb 15 07:53:19 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:53:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> Message-ID: <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Well, I can't figure this out... What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Lynch Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM To: Fot Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Hi Fot, I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. Thanks, Kevin From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 15 08:15:38 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 07:15:38 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Message-ID: <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" To: "'Kevin Lynch'" ; "'Fot'" Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 15 08:19:40 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 08:19:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Message-ID: <4B79660C.7040607@microworks.net> Search for his email address klynch_6 at msn.com His profile picture is a white GT6 with a blue stripe Clark W. Nicholls wrote: > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 15 08:22:27 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 10:22:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Message-ID: <003c01caae52$af019bf0$0d04d3d0$@net> Me to Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Pendergrass Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 10:16 AM To: Clark W. Nicholls; 'Kevin Lynch'; 'Fot' Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" To: "'Kevin Lynch'" ; "'Fot'" Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From klynch_6 at msn.com Mon Feb 15 09:32:29 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:32:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Message-ID: Sorry guys... I think the F.Book mother board got a bad command from me or some internal faux pax occurred. You may disregard (if you like) with my apologies.. Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Pendergrass To: Clark W. Nicholls ; 'Kevin Lynch' ; 'Fot' Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 8:15 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" > To: "'Kevin Lynch'" >; "'Fot'" > Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Emoticon9.gif] From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Mon Feb 15 12:23:59 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:23:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs Message-ID: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> I have been using a set of 30 year old Ruggles scales for a while 8 seasons with good success and only have the scales at the track to verify were the car has been set. Its been close enough. Most times I have help but today I need to use the dumbbells for my weigh and am wondering what % of weight I would put at the peddles and then the thighs torso etc. I am also wondering about the cost range on new scales from $800.00 to 2800.00 Pad rigidity is important but the rest of the features seem to be about the computer doing the simple math memory and battery life. thanks rob From billb at bnj.com Mon Feb 15 13:52:40 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 10:52:40 -1000 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs In-Reply-To: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> References: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <8809EFCF-8B59-4EB4-AA4F-CBC56D2EA2F1@bnj.com> I kind of figure your center of mass is your ass, you don't apply much weight to your feet--if at all--while you're racing. So I always just put the weight in the seat. In fact most times if I was setting the car up by myself I stood in the seat and read the result. On Feb 15, 2010, at 9:23 AM, Rob wrote: > I have been using a set of 30 year old Ruggles scales for a while 8 seasons > with good success and only have the scales at the track to verify were the car > has been set. Its been close enough. > Most times I have help but today I need to use the dumbbells for my weigh > and am wondering what % of weight I would put at the peddles and then the > thighs torso etc. > I am also wondering about the cost range on new scales from $800.00 to > 2800.00 Pad rigidity is important but the rest of the features seem to be > about the computer doing the simple math memory and battery life. > thanks rob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 15 14:52:29 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:52:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Shifter Kart wreck Message-ID: <4B79C21D.4020203@microworks.net> One of the really fast guys that runs with Shifter Karts with us. This video is from yesterday (2/14/10). Loved his editing the song to the video. The lines: "Set my sites on You" and Got to have my way little Baby". Perfect. Can't win in the first corner but you can sure lose in the first corner. To appreciate the closing shot of the video remember that the camera is mounted on the chin of his helmet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Mon Feb 15 16:52:57 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 15:52:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] GREAT OPEN TRAILER ON E-BAY Message-ID: <561556.9370.qm@web111008.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180469984613&ss PageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Trying to upgrade to an enclosed unit. Interested FOT members have first shot and reduced price. Let me know if your interested or want to trade for a used enclsoed unit. Check it out , thanks. Mark From gp89 at charter.net Mon Feb 15 17:58:32 2010 From: gp89 at charter.net (Jeff Senty) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 16:58:32 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Shifter Kart wreck In-Reply-To: <4B79C21D.4020203@microworks.net> Message-ID: <20100215195832.ZWHUY.1424233.root@mp06> I race go karts at Sugar River Raceway in Broadhead Wi with my grandson. In the Honda Masters class I run in we have the same problem with the first two turns. It gets frustrating having the same people drive like that. You can see me get beat by the track owner on you tube if you search Sugar River Raceway Honda Masters. I'm the #3 blue Jeff Senty ---- "David W. Riddle" wrote: > One of the really fast guys that runs with Shifter Karts with us. This > video is from yesterday (2/14/10). Loved his editing the song to the > video. The lines: "Set my sites on You" and Got to have my way little > Baby". Perfect. Can't win in the first corner but you can sure lose in > the first corner. To appreciate the closing shot of the video remember > that the camera is mounted on the chin of his helmet. > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gp89 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Feb 15 19:08:15 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 21:08:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] RHD Steering rack and pinion Message-ID: <4B79FE0F.3040202@cfl.rr.com> I am searching for a RHD rack and pinion steering from a TR4 - TR6, a RHD TR3 dash board and a RHD throttle pedal assembly. Any leads much appreciated. thxx, Bob From fasttrs at yahoo.com Mon Feb 15 19:47:05 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:47:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias Message-ID: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXKwxxASpPY From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Mon Feb 15 19:52:47 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:52:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Barn find nfi Message-ID: Looks like this TR3 has been mothballed in the desert for a long time. If my old man were still around, this is the kind of tr3 we'd haul back to the Midwest for restoration. (If it's not rusty or full of bondo). http://bringatrailer.com/2010/02/15/bat-exclusive-complete-but-apart-1959-triumph-tr3/ ~Steve From adams910 at gmail.com Mon Feb 15 21:55:05 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 23:55:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs In-Reply-To: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> References: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <673993c51002152055g2f9824d7n51285f564e3ab185@mail.gmail.com> Rob, When you get help, sit in the car, record the corner weights, get out and add weight to match. You might have to put some in the footbox to get it right. If you're by yourself, 10 to 20lbs should do. In talking to a very set-up savvy friend, he says with the scales over $1000+, you're mostly getting additional display features. Some of the higher $ set-ups have scales with multiple load cells in them. Unless you're gunning for the Daytona 500, you won't need those. Hope this helps, Bob ps: It's easy to forget in the rush of things, but don't forget to account for fuel load and use your hot tire pressures. From deanesr at uncw.edu Tue Feb 16 05:46:49 2010 From: deanesr at uncw.edu (Deanes, Robert) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 07:46:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias In-Reply-To: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1BB45AE37908DF40B3C2FAB9665E094517B58A7B23@uncwexmb1.dcs.uncw.edu> Great video, this one is a keeper, it put a big smile on my face watching it first thing in the morning...very good Sam. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Munson Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 9:47 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXKwxxASpPY Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as deanesr at uncw.edu http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From koblinger at verizon.net Tue Feb 16 13:28:05 2010 From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 14:28:05 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 Message-ID: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> /EXeLsN: Permission denied From roadandtrack at bigpond.com Tue Feb 16 14:46:41 2010 From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 07:46:41 +1000 Subject: [Fot] RHD Steering rack and pinion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100216214639.BMIX1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> I should be able to help with that. Email me at work. roadandtrack at bigpond.com Terry From koblinger at verizon.net Tue Feb 16 20:08:30 2010 From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 19:08:30 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> References: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4B7B5DAE.4050809@verizon.net> Lets try this again. 1956 Paramount Ranch Road Races in color! http://thechicaneblog.com/2010/02/16/more-unseen-50s-scca-footage-paramount-ranch-1956/ Cheers, Kurt O. From GRMTim at aol.com Wed Feb 17 12:30:41 2010 From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 14:30:41 EST Subject: [Fot] TR 250 K at the Mitty Message-ID: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> Beloved FOT members, As this year's grand marshall at the Classic Motorsports Mitty is Peter Brock, we are trying to get the TR 250K to the Mitty. (Peter designed the car). When queried, I got this message from Tony, who manages the car: Bill Hart has said that he will bring the car provided I can find a second car to go in the trailer to offset Transport costs. So, If there is a car needing transport from the PNW to Atlanta and back, please let me know ASAP. Regards Tony Garmey 206 612 1782 Anyone want to come to the Mitty from the Northwest? We will offer some perks to make this happen. Tim Suddard Publisher; Classic Motorsports and Grassroots Motorsports magazines www.classicmotorsports.net www.grassrootsmotorsports.com Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723 From riverside at southslope.net Wed Feb 17 13:18:59 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 14:18:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 References: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> <4B7B5DAE.4050809@verizon.net> Message-ID: <008b01cab00e$7112ab00$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Kurt, Thanks for sharing the video. One of the best from that era. Anybody have and Greenwood or MAR video? art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kurt Oblinger" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 9:08 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 > Lets try this again. > > 1956 Paramount Ranch Road Races in color! > > http://thechicaneblog.com/2010/02/16/more-unseen-50s-scca-footage-paramount-ranch-1956/ > > Cheers, > Kurt O. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as riverside at southslope.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jfrymark at aol.com Wed Feb 17 13:23:52 2010 From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:23:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 Message-ID: Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark From kaskas at cox.net Wed Feb 17 13:53:24 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:53:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100217155324.LACQT.695543.imail@fed1rmwml36> I believe that is the race I was there, but not driving. Ken Miles and Bob Drake had a hell'va race and there was a big conflab at the S/F line after a black flag for Miles . Drake in a bob-tail Cooper and Miles in a 550 Porsche. I think was the time that a fellow was killed in a green Aston Martin on the COOL-OFF lap over in the back. ---- John Frymark wrote: ============= Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. -- Never be beaten by equipment From kaskas at cox.net Wed Feb 17 13:54:40 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:54:40 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> trust me, it was lot of fun. ---- John Frymark wrote: ============= Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. -- Never be beaten by equipment From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Feb 17 14:13:27 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:13:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR 250 K at the Mitty In-Reply-To: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> References: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> Message-ID: > Anyone want to come to the Mitty from the Northwest? We will offer some > perks to make this happen. Mark? From dave at microworks.net Wed Feb 17 21:09:37 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 21:09:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B7CBD81.8040203@microworks.net> I forwarded the link to the guy that runs the NASA Region here in AZ. Loved his comments. ---------------- Wow! My, how times have changed?!? * Spectators! * Who needs K-Walls and tire barriers when you're wearing white, right? * Why use an apex cone that will get knocked over when planting a tree in the same spot will double as some shade for the corner workers who stand in FRONT of it. Ha! On the flip side that looks like a TON of fun and very close racing and those cars really hauled ass too! John Frymark wrote: > Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be > getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? > > John Frymark From jason at multivintage.com Fri Feb 19 08:15:59 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 08:15:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> References: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> Message-ID: <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> I Go to whats left of the track every time I'm near the mountains of Malibu. Its still a fun place 50 years later. The track exists as a walking and biking trail and is kind of a crumbling time capsule of racing days gone by... When death loomed at every corner. There is a picnic grounds and an old western town for movie sets... a great day trip for the whole family. I think any FOT'er would enjoy it. Cheers Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6 On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:54:40 -0800, Kas Kastner wrote: > trust me, it was lot of fun. > ---- John Frymark wrote: > > ============= > Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be > getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? > > John Frymark > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spyderweb at uwalumni.com Fri Feb 19 09:18:01 2010 From: spyderweb at uwalumni.com (Jim Hill) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 10:18:01 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> References: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> Message-ID: <3afbecf41002190818y33001a71oe8f680bf5da2ba58@mail.gmail.com> For a view of the Paramount Ranch racetrack area today, see: http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/ParamountRanchToday.html Jim Hill ________________________________ Jason Ostrowski wrote: > I Go to whats left of the track every time I'm near the mountains of Malibu. Its still a fun place 50 years later. The track exists as a walking and biking trail and is kind of a crumbling time capsule of racing days gone by.... There is a picnic grounds and an old western town for movie sets... a great day trip for the whole family. I think any FOT'er would enjoy it. From andre at gt6.ca Fri Feb 19 10:40:12 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 12:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: <4362ae391002190940v2cd14871m9733999fffde09c0@mail.gmail.com> Quick question... I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car from time to time with a 2nd seat. Should I just pad the whole cage? I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the passenger side. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 11:19:15 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:19:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002190940v2cd14871m9733999fffde09c0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <137465203.4886471266603555269.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You really only need to pad where arms, legs/knees, head and shoulders would contact the bar. I use the SFI rated 1/2 round with adhesive backing. It's clean looking and low profile because of the density. On the subject of padding, most people overlook the foot wells. If you ever roll or cartwheel a car your legs & knees will find every single sharp or hard edge in the footwell. You can do permanent damage to a knee(s) with a single ungaurded edge or corner. I won't go into how I know that. jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andre Rousseau" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 10:40:12 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Quick question... I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car from time to time with a 2nd seat. Should I just pad the whole cage? I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the passenger side. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as toodamnfunky at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Feb 19 11:32:39 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:32:39 EST Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: In a message dated 02/19/2010 12:04:47 PM Central Standard Time, andre at gt6.ca writes: > Quick question... > > I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car > from time to time with a 2nd seat. > > Should I just pad the whole cage? > > I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I > keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the > passenger side. > Everytime I attend a racing event I hit my bald head on the door head to my enclosed trailer. Try as I might to avoid it, I know the hit is coming, and I am almost relieved when it finally comes. I have a permanent scar up there right now. So I think you should probably learn to live with your own head bumps getting in and out of the car. It comes with the turf. But these potential passengers...are they good friends? Bill (Damdinger) From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Feb 19 13:51:47 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:51:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque Message-ID: Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's Team competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Fri Feb 19 14:09:44 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:09:44 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I would suggest padding only the areas that your helmet or limbs could come into contact with in a crash. Use the SFI padding that feels hard but absorbs the forces rather than bouncing back. You want your passenger to be safe too so it would make sense to add a 5-pt harness for the passenger and make it Hans friendly in case of a head-on smack. ~Steve -----Original Message----- >From: Andre Rousseau >Sent: Feb 19, 2010 9:40 AM >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding > >Quick question... > >I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car >from time to time with a 2nd seat. > >Should I just pad the whole cage? > >I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I >keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the >passenger side. > >A. > >-- >Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca >'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ >'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ >Ottawa, ON, Canada >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as colordog.1 at earthlink.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 16:50:36 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:50:36 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> I love it.but I'm in the wrong state! Maybe we should have teams like that in all the state. Work on it Henry. Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 3:52 PM To: fot Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's Team competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Feb 19 17:27:29 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:27:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: How ironic Henry, There is a parking lot auto-x going on right now up on Coors Blvd. I was invited to run a friends TaG kart. Would have been my first autocross in about 27 years. Drove over there, looked at the sea of cones, thanked my friend for the offer, got in the car and came home. Hard to turn down a drive but autocross just ain't my thing. You going to SWMS at Arroyo Seco Henry? Walt? Anybody else looking for some SW springtime racing? March 6th/7th Arroyo Seco Raceway - near Deming New Mexico. Go to http://www.swms.org/next.html for details Greg "Lunker "Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Feb 19, 2010, at 1:51 PM, wrote: > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local > SCCA's Team > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. > The one > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry > Morrison > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 20:57:34 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 22:57:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 Message-ID: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> Can anyone tell me what happens to the toe changes on the trailing arm Does it toe in or out in bump. Thanks for the help rob From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Feb 19 23:36:27 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 00:36:27 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa. earthlink.net> References: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> I certainly 2nd what Steve said regarding which padding to go with. I originally had the semi-fireproof padding that the racer supply places sell - looks like a pool toy, kinda. When I was talking with the guy who fitted me for a HANS who KNOWS HIS SAFETY STUFF, he basically said that this stuff was useless. I needed the closed cell much harder padding. He had some with him and I made the switch immediately. It's more expensive, but not MUCH more expensive. I've mainly got it padded where my head would hit. I can't do good padding in the footwell area without interfering with my operation of the pedals unfortunately. I've got a used set of outdated G-Force belts that would make a nice 5 point setup for a passenger. They're yours for shipping cost. - Tony Drwes At 03:09 PM 2/19/2010, steve wrote: >I would suggest padding only the areas that your helmet or limbs >could come into contact with in a crash. Use the SFI padding that >feels hard but absorbs the forces rather than bouncing back. You >want your passenger to be safe too so it would make sense to add a >5-pt harness for the passenger and make it Hans friendly in case of >a head-on smack. > >~Steve > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Andre Rousseau > >Sent: Feb 19, 2010 9:40 AM > >To: fot at autox.team.net > >Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding > > > >Quick question... > > > >I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car > >from time to time with a 2nd seat. > > > >Should I just pad the whole cage? > > > >I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I > >keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the > >passenger side. > > > >A. > > > >-- > >Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca > >'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ > >'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ > >Ottawa, ON, Canada > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > >You are subscribed as colordog.1 at earthlink.net > > > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > >Fot at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 00:23:23 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 21:23:23 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> References: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0F14B0EE-46F9-4DE1-BBA5-3DB296DB51DD@bnj.com> I third that. Someone showed me a good demo. He gave me a stick about 3' long and a couple inches in diameter and said "hit your pad" I did, and felt a good solid whang from the roll bar. "Did you feel much effect from the padding?" Hmmm, not really. "Try this closed cell stuff". No whang. Just kind of a thud. Even I could tell that thud good, whang bad. And I'm pretty sure you name is D-r-e-w-s -- Bill Badcocz On Feb 19, 2010, at 8:36 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > I certainly 2nd what Steve said regarding which padding to go with. I originally had the semi-fireproof padding that the racer supply places sell - looks like a pool toy, kinda. When I was talking with the guy who fitted me for a HANS who KNOWS HIS SAFETY STUFF, he basically said that this stuff was useless. I needed the closed cell much harder padding. He had some with him and I made the switch immediately. It's more expensive, but not MUCH more expensive. I've mainly got it padded where my head would hit. I can't do good padding in the footwell area without interfering with my operation of the pedals unfortunately. > > I've got a used set of outdated G-Force belts that would make a nice 5 point setup for a passenger. They're yours for shipping cost. > > - Tony Drwes From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Feb 20 09:29:33 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:29:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Message-ID: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> did anybody notice that race car spelled backwards is still race car jim g From spitlist at cox.net Sat Feb 20 09:59:09 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:59:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> References: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> Message-ID: Yes, but did you know that Race Car spelled upside down is "totaled"? Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gray Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 9:30 AM To: Friends of triumph Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards did anybody notice that race car spelled backwards is still race car jim g From BillDentin at aol.com Sat Feb 20 10:15:16 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 12:15:16 EST Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Message-ID: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > did anybody notice that race > car spelled backwards is still > race car > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like that. There's a bunch of them. Bill Dentinger From triosan at gmail.com Sat Feb 20 11:14:34 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 10:14:34 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> Bill, you are just too damn funny! The drones do seem to be going backwards. chuck On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 9:15 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, > toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > > >> did anybody notice that race >> car spelled backwards is still >> race car >> > > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the > same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like > that. > > There's a bunch of them. > > Bill Dentinger > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 12:07:02 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:07:02 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <246C25C7-403E-4984-BF84-9A4E87C29440@bnj.com> palindromes. One word. Like A man, a plan, a canal--Panama. The longest one yet generated is 17,826 words, but it's nonsense. On Feb 20, 2010, at 7:15 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, > toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > > >> did anybody notice that race >> car spelled backwards is still >> race car >> > > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the > same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like > that. > > There's a bunch of them. > > Bill Dentinger > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 12:08:33 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:08:33 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <932803E5-415C-4638-8E20-5C2F349029B2@bnj.com> I should have read your response first, Billy's funny went right over my too literal head. On Feb 20, 2010, at 8:14 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > Bill, you are just too damn funny! > The drones do seem to be going backwards. > chuck > > On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 9:15 AM, wrote: >> In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, >> toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: >> >> >>> did anybody notice that race >>> car spelled backwards is still >>> race car >>> >> >> I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the >> same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like >> that. >> >> There's a bunch of them. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> >> > > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Feb 20 12:15:54 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 12:15:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> References: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> Message-ID: <4B8034EA.9020405@bradakis.com> Actually way back in the early days of Team.Net, when there were only two lists - autox and british-cars, Akkana Peck had that quip in her email signature line. And I don't know if any of you are familiar with Riders in the Sky and their radio show Riders Radio Theater, but they once had a skit about a gunslinger named Palindrome. Why, what brought you to town, Mr. Palindrome? A Toyota. It was pretty humorous. mjb. From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 20 13:01:23 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 15:01:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] "Best of Britain" Simeone Foundation Museum Message-ID: <673993c51002201201u17ecfad8n93b86a8114b9ce7e@mail.gmail.com> Just putting in a little plug for this.. Dick Stockton's Triumph TR4 is on display at the Simeone Foundation Museum as part of the "Best of Britain" display running from today, Feb. 20th until March 14th. Some other notable cars as part of the exhibit include a Sprite "Sebring Coupes, Sebring Twin-Cam MGA, several rare examples of cars I've never heard of, and stunningly restored, award winning examples of more common British cars. http://www.simeonefoundation.org/ Bob Adams From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 20 18:32:03 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 20:32:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> Art comes in many forms Bill - well done... Cheers, M From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Feb 20 18:56:59 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 18:56:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <33A6006664074365A1A3C22B667ED483@hal9000> way to go Bill -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team .net] On Behalf Of Mark Eginton Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 6:32 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Art comes in many forms Bill - well done... Cheers, M ______________________________ _________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htm l Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as toodamnfunky at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 21 02:34:23 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 10:34:23 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 In-Reply-To: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> References: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <000801cab2d9$0eea1670$2cbe4350$@com> The normal rule says that at the rear the wheel should go "toe in" on bumps, otherwise the car would go into drifting. Other way round at the front. On a bump it should go slightly "toe out". Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rob Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Februar 2010 04:58 An: FOT Betreff: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 Can anyone tell me what happens to the toe changes on the trailing arm Does it toe in or out in bump. Thanks for the help rob Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Feb 21 12:05:47 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:05:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: As I try to get my kids to carry on my interest in British Cars, the only thing my wife will let me do with them is go Autocrossing until they're 18 when I can let them go destroy all my otherr machinery. I've done a lot of Autocrossing and it seems to have a point, like winning a jacket at the end of the year and they might like that. Again it is likely that the kids will run off with their girlfriends as I have again failed in getting their priorities on the right track. The Arroyo Seco event conflicts with the annual Ft. Lewis College High School Jazz Band Competition which I have recently become quite a fan of lately. But I see my interest dropping off after next year's event. Sharon is trying to get me into the May event and she may have some sucess there. After that it's probably High Plains in May, if I'm not too busy Autocrossing. Cheers Henry > CC: fot at autox.team.net > From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:27:29 -0700 > To: dos_gusanos at msn.com > > How ironic Henry, > There is a parking lot auto-x going on right now up on Coors Blvd. I > was invited to run a friends TaG kart. Would have been my first > autocross in about 27 years. Drove over there, looked at the sea of > cones, thanked my friend for the offer, got in the car and came home. > Hard to turn down a drive but autocross just ain't my thing. > You going to SWMS at Arroyo Seco Henry? Walt? Anybody else looking > for some SW springtime racing? March 6th/7th Arroyo Seco Raceway - > near Deming New Mexico. > Go to http://www.swms.org/next.html for details > > Greg "Lunker "Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > > > > On Feb 19, 2010, at 1:51 PM, > wrote: > > > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local > > SCCA's Team > > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. > > The one > > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry > > Morrison > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > > You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Fot at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Feb 21 12:07:44 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:07:44 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> References: , <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> Message-ID: Yes, most people are in the wrong state for this one, but hey, ya gotta put it out there.....I got a Mini Driver to join the team so I'm up to a possible 4 cars.................Henry > From: wensley_tr at comcast.net > To: dos_gusanos at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:50:36 -0500 > > I love it.but I'm in the wrong state! > Maybe we should have teams like that in all the state. > Work on it Henry. > Craig > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com > Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 3:52 PM > To: fot > Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's > Team > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Sun Feb 21 19:05:18 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 02:05:18 GMT Subject: [Fot] Mordy Dunst Message-ID: <20100221.210518.15110.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> Sorry to bomb the list. Mordy, would you please contact me off of the list. Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=WE2rRSnOINlaXf57BhojmQAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From macdonaldp at rogers.com Mon Feb 22 08:24:16 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 10:24:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb Message-ID: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Andre Other places to take the race car. http://www.hillclimb.org/ Paul From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Feb 22 09:21:37 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 11:21:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: On Mon, 22 Feb 2010, Paul MacDonald wrote: > Andre > > > > Other places to take the race car. > > > > http://www.hillclimb.org/ You ave no idea how hillarious this is for me (and close to home). My first "almost" step into racing was hillclimbs. Long story, but I got to drive an HP bugeye sprite in a funkhana and the guy really worked me to buy the car. I WANTED THAT CAR. Fate stepped in and the car was wrecked about 5 months later at Mt. Ascutney. The driver was okay, but dissapeared from any car events after that (SCCA / various Brit car stuff). And he had been active in both. At any rate, once in a blue moon I look at NEHA and usually decide that if I'm going to do events like that, I'll drag my car all the way to PA do run with the PA hillclimb folks. The hillclimbs in New England are, for lack of a better term - SCARY. The roads are nasty (for the most part) and NARROW. With big rocks and trees right on the edge of the road. If you can't afford to totally write off your car, I would not approach NEHA hillclimbs at anywhere near 10/10ths. Even 7/10ths would be hair-raising at best. Of course you can't get good without taking risks... Sprongel did the Mount Washington Auto Road in under 7 minutes. If you miss on that one, there's 1000 foot drop-offs. Of course they don't run there anymore, but that sort of risk is pretty much standard for NEHA. Look at any of the in-car vidZ posted on the web site. NER/SCCA stopped running hillclimbs in the region a LONG time ago because of the safety / risk aspects. > Paul regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Feb 22 10:40:19 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:40:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, Message-ID: HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate to see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ From andre at gt6.ca Mon Feb 22 11:05:42 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 13:05:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in Message-ID: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g TR7 tagged! A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From bownes at seiri.com Mon Feb 22 11:35:40 2010 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 13:35:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: The thing that kept me out of hillclimbs was the need for the same gear as 'real' racing without the wheel to wheel aspect PLUS the potential for driving off of or into a cliff. On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 12:40 PM, marty sukey wrote: > HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate > to > see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) > > > > Marty > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bownes at web9.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 12:33:25 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:33:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, Message-ID: <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> His wife will take the car away from him Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 12:40 PM To: Bob Lang; macdonaldp at rogers.com Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Hill Climb HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate to see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 12:42:38 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:42:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> References: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00f101cab3f7$30df3930$929dab90$@net> Looks like NASCAR training grounds Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andre Rousseau Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 1:06 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g TR7 tagged! A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rocky at spitfire4.com Mon Feb 22 16:44:55 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 17:44:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> <33A6006664074365A1A3C22B667ED483@hal9000> Message-ID: Napoleon's exile: "Able was I ere I saw Elba." Cool because each individual word is a reverse of its other. --Rockcor ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gray" To: "'Mark Eginton'" ; Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 7:56 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards > way to go Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: > fot-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team > .net] On Behalf Of Mark > Eginton > Sent: Saturday, February 20, > 2010 6:32 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car > spelled backwards > > Art comes in many forms Bill - > well done... > > Cheers, > > M > ______________________________ > _________________ > > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.htm > l > > Suggested annual donation > $12.96 > > You are subscribed as > toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net > consulting - Unix software > specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rocky at spitfire4.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From harmug at us.ibm.com Mon Feb 22 17:34:49 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:34:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 22 18:23:57 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:23:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> References: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B832E2D.60504@microworks.net> I'm going to use that bit of video in my HPDE class. One of the axioms that I have students repeat is "If he spins, go where he's been". Andre Rousseau wrote: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g > > TR7 tagged! > > A. From chasgee at aol.com Mon Feb 22 18:36:04 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:36:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Message-ID: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> FOT, Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? Thanks, Chuck Gee From mark at bradakis.com Mon Feb 22 19:15:03 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:15:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B833A27.9090907@bradakis.com> Personally I'd prefer a perennial, not one that has to be replanted every season. Oh. Never mind. mjb. From triosan at gmail.com Mon Feb 22 19:29:58 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:29:58 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d1002221829ha43380dx8f71f34597ae5f5e@mail.gmail.com> I bought one from Herman Van Den Akker. He has a special mount for the McLoad bearing he supplied. You can see pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/AnnularThrowOutBearingForTRs# His website is at: http://www.hvdaconversions.com/ Chuck PS --If you cannot see the pictures let me know off list and I will send them. On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 5:36 PM, wrote: > FOT, > > Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 > transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? > > Thanks, > > Chuck Gee > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From norlinengineering at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 19:58:06 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:58:06 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <281584CC1F244A95BA5F51269A81E46D@TOSHIBALAPTOP> George I've been running one with a 20 psi switch. The switch is available from NAPA or Pegasus. I'm running a simple light I picked up at a local parts store, but I'd like to switch it out for an LED light. I know the thing works. In the 70's I had one on my Formula Ford. I had an oil pump gear retaining pin shear at 6000 rpm near the end of the main straight. The light came on and I hit the kill switch. When I disassembled the engine to check bearings and figure out what happened, everything was fine except for the broken pin. Substituted part of a 16 penny nail and made the race the next day. The key is to locate the light directly in your line of vision. Jim Norlin -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Harmuth Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:35 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as norlinengineering at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:21:56 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:21:56 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: <281584CC1F244A95BA5F51269A81E46D@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: <68D9F9EC74D74477B993960D728152A3@Pendys> Jim, i picked up a side marker LED light at napa to replace the incandesent one and even on a sunny bright day you cannot miss it if it were to come on, get the one that has four bulbs........MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norlin Engineering" To: "'George Harmuth'" ; Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 6:58 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > George > > I've been running one with a 20 psi switch. The switch is available from > NAPA or Pegasus. I'm running a simple light I picked up at a local parts > store, but I'd like to switch it out for an LED light. > > I know the thing works. In the 70's I had one on my Formula Ford. I had > an > oil pump gear retaining pin shear at 6000 rpm near the end of the main > straight. The light came on and I hit the kill switch. When I > disassembled > the engine to check bearings and figure out what happened, everything was > fine except for the broken pin. Substituted part of a 16 penny nail and > made the race the next day. > > The key is to locate the light directly in your line of vision. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of George Harmuth > Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:35 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > > > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any > specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system > should > be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that > too? > > thanks > mike > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as norlinengineering at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Feb 22 20:39:07 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 03:39:07 GMT Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? Message-ID: <20100222.223907.11768.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com> I use a 20 or 30 psi switch - 1/8 pipe thread with a red 12 volt light on the dash. On my TR3, I tapped one of the oil galley bolts to accept the 1/8 NPT switch. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: George Harmuth To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:34:49 -0500 I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Small Business Tools Free info for small business owners. Click here to find great products geared for your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=Rk6Fxy_lTq8WBIfMyPJNTgAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARMQAAAAA= From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:44:17 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:44:17 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> <4B833A27.9090907@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <957AA7672126456EB8EF7162FD88BCBC@Pendys> I second that...............MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 6:15 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder > Personally I'd prefer a perennial, not one that has to be replanted > every season. > > > Oh. Never mind. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Feb 22 20:48:23 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 03:48:23 GMT Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Message-ID: <20100222.224823.11768.2@webmail04.dca.untd.com> I am using the one from Howe racing, with a Tilton clutch. Since I am using a T5 tranny with my own bell housing the hydraulic throw-out bearing mounts on studs on where the original TR tranny nose bolts up. I had to reduce the diameter of the T5's nose for the bearing to fit over the nose. I ran braided hose to it, one thru a throw-out bearing shaft hole and the other thru a new hole that I bored in the case. The top hose has the bleeder. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: chasgee at aol.com To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:36:04 -0500 FOT, Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? Thanks, Chuck Gee Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:53:00 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:53:00 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: Message-ID: <2A80D0A3BDD94A929DA4ABB1C7CE443C@Pendys> Some of the switches are adj. from 5lb to 50lb, as far as the temp warning goes i stick with the mech. gauge only, an electrician i am, but i just am not keen on electric gauges.............MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Harmuth" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:34 PM Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. > Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what > PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a > warning light for that too? > > thanks > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jmwagner at greenheart.com Mon Feb 22 21:32:02 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:32:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] =?iso-8859-1?q?British_Nomex=AE_Flight_Coveralls?= Message-ID: <4B835A42.2030602@greenheart.com> I thought this might be of interest to some of you.... Nomex... British.... Cheap outfit for pit crew or drivers? --Justin British Nomex. Flight Coveralls! http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=610797 From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Mon Feb 22 23:09:34 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 01:09:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: Message-ID: <004201cab44e$c5c3c230$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> It's pretty easy to run the ignition through the low pressure switch too. It will disable the ignition automatically if the pressure drops, besides turning on the light. Also wire the fuel pump through it; it will disable the pump if something dastardly happens (crash rollover, etc.) You have to run an over ride switch to start the engine though; that's easily done. The LED side marker lights are very bright and use very little current. And come in a couple different colors. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Harmuth" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 7:34 PM Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. > Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what > PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a > warning light for that too? > > thanks > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Feb 23 00:58:54 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:58:54 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01cab45e$0dd83880$2988a980$@com> I have a 22 psi sensor attached to the main oil gallery. I put a bright 12V LED light into the ignition light on the dash and attached it to the sensor. So if the pressure drops below 22 psi the ignition light cheers up. The reason for the ignition light version is that it doesn't disturb the dash design. After a race when the engine is quite hot the red light is flashing a little at idle speed. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von George Harmuth Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Februar 2010 01:35 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Feb 23 06:24:45 2010 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 07:24:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Oil Pick Up Solution Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A6BAE7A@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local> Morning Members, Ran with VDCA @ Atlanta this past weekend. If you've never run with them you had better get on the schedule as it the best vintage group around!! Lots of fun and lots of track time. Anyway back to my query for you all. On the 2nd practice session I thought I noticed the oil pressure drop suddenly to 20 or so PSI. Started watching it and saw it float from 60 to 40 down to 20 back to 60 etc etc. Got to the pits ASAP. We installed a test gauge and had 0 PSI. tried a lot of stuff but eventually dropped the pan and yes you guesses it the pick up had split at the pipe threads where the jam nut flat side is facing the bottom of the oil pan. So got lucky and found some folks with lots of tools and got the broken threads out of the aluminum housing and had enough threads to reinstall it. VOILA all of the sudden I had 80 PSI at speed vs.. the original 60 PSI. So I am guessing it's been cracked and sucking some air for a while now. Then this weekend it finally opened up enough to drop pressure and give ole dummy me enough time to see it happen and get in the pits to save my almost new engine. This pick up had been extended approx 2 inches as I have a stock pan that has been deepened and baffled. Again I digress what is the best solution to make a new pick up out of that isn't so thin that it can crack at the threads again. I like working on these old piles of parts, but NOT at the track. What pan do a lot of you racers run, is a deep sump even necessary?? I had it and just reused it etc. Thanks for any help you have!! Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 411 Allied Drive Nashville, TN 37211 866-455-7788 Phone 615-834-9923 Fax www.dieselperformanceparts.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 12:24:50 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 14:24:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP Message-ID: <8CC82D500EF78BE-2340-2717@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Friends of Triumph Listers: heartlandvintageracing.com now has entry forms posted, as well as the schedule. Three days of practice, qualifying, races, plus the Kastner Cup. FRIDAY-SATURDAY- SUNDAY Thursday is optional TEST & TUNE. Submit now...........why not? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------ If you have ANYTHING to VEND, as long as it is not illegal or immoral, spaces are available. That form is available as well........ $100 will get you 10 x 20 BOOTH. There should be a large GATE due to a huge number car club folks in attendance. KANSAS CITY-OMAHA-MINNEAPOLIS-DES MOINES-OKLAHOMA CITY-DALLAS.....CLUBS! O'REILLEY AUTOPARTS TOPEKA HEARTLAND PARK HVR................... all behind the sucessful execution of this event. At the cost of a grassroots event.... Joe A From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Feb 23 14:00:11 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:00:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Message-ID: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we don't get rear disc brakes etc. jg From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 14:33:14 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:33:14 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility In-Reply-To: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by case basis. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we on't get rear disc brakes etc. jg Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 23 19:42:22 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:42:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Message-ID: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Tue Feb 23 20:05:43 2010 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:05:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP In-Reply-To: <8CC82D500EF78BE-2340-2717@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <650251.85850.qm@web111410.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Joe, When I go to the Heartland Park website and click on "racing registration", the file will not open up. It is like nothing is there. Adobe pops up a box with a "?" in it and a box to check okay. Is anyone else having this problem? Ken Suhre --- On Tue, 2/23/10, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP > To: fot at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, February 23, 2010, 1:24 PM > Friends of Triumph Listers: > > heartlandvintageracing.com now > has entry forms posted, as well as the > schedule. > > Three days of practice, qualifying, races, plus the Kastner > Cup. > FRIDAY-SATURDAY- SUNDAY > > Thursday is optional TEST & TUNE. > > Submit now...........why not? > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------ > > If you have ANYTHING to VEND, as long as it is not illegal > or immoral, spaces > are available. > > That form is available as well........ > > $100 will get you 10 x 20 BOOTH. > > There should be a large GATE due to a huge number car club > folks in > attendance. > > KANSAS CITY-OMAHA-MINNEAPOLIS-DES MOINES-OKLAHOMA > CITY-DALLAS.....CLUBS! > > O'REILLEY AUTOPARTS TOPEKA > HEARTLAND PARK HVR................... all > behind the sucessful execution of this event. > > At the cost of a grassroots event.... > > Joe A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kenandtweety at yahoo.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software > specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 20:06:17 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:06:17 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> I could have gone all day without seeing that. Urk. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > 140385679995 From dave at microworks.net Tue Feb 23 20:27:10 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:27:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> The line in the description says it all "Triumph purists think it looks like the Bride of Frankenstein, or "something Eddie Munster would drive." Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spitlist at cox.net Tue Feb 23 20:29:47 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:29:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <95A6DFC1336A4E3B9455C6950FA3609F@joepentiumnew> One word comes to mind: Abomination! Joe -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:42 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 20:35:01 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:35:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ANOTHER HEARTLAND HEADS UP Message-ID: <8CC83197AF12221-6E3C-4060@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> FOT: Please note that each driver entrant gets FOUR CREW PASSES. I've never seen that before. DAILY PASSES are only $10 for General Admission and $25 for the weekend....that's a lot of value. I think you will find Hotel RATES very affordable, too....RAMADA INN is the host hotel and HVR HEADQUARTERS. Please also be advised that the last recipient of the BILL AMES MEMORIAL plaque, LARRY YOUNG, has selected THE HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY and the HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX as the venue for the next presentation. This may occur with the presentation of the Kastner Cup. Joe From herald948 at aol.com Tue Feb 23 20:38:29 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:38:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 T-Birds. ;) This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup currently on eBay UK: 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From herald948 at aol.com Tue Feb 23 20:38:33 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:38:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC8319F97A47A4-36C0-255B@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 T-Birds. ;) This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup currently on eBay UK: 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From timmurph at fastbytes.com Tue Feb 23 20:44:37 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:44:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> Message-ID: <000501cab503$b0c74860$1255d920$@com> I could have made it through the rest of the year:) Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 9:06 PM To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: Re: [Fot] Gee, nice car I could have gone all day without seeing that. Urk. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > 140385679995 Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 21:00:52 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:00:52 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> Message-ID: If Eddie munster were a tasteless knucklehead--I wouldn't slur Eddie that way. On Feb 23, 2010, at 5:27 PM, David W. Riddle wrote: > The line in the description says it all > > "Triumph purists think it looks like the Bride of Frankenstein, or "something Eddie Munster would drive." > > Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> Check out Ebay item 140385679995 >> >> I don't think I'll be bidding. >> >> mjb. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 21:03:14 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:03:14 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: There is an XKE that shows up at some of the brit car shows that makes me gag. Huge amount of effort went into making it so tasteless. a custom Jag shows up at the Wine Country as well. I certainly would never tell someone what they should do with their property, but I really don't want to look at 'em. On Feb 23, 2010, at 5:38 PM, Andrew Mace wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark J Bradakis > > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with > its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did > free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision > protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 > T-Birds. ;) > This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been > "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately > joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, > but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... > Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup > currently on eBay UK: > 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph > Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald > Database: http://triumph-herald.us > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Feb 23 21:15:49 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:15:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. There has been lot of interesting discussion about that thing on the 6-Pack Forum. It seems that the current owner took offense to some of the comments and ended up being banned. Amazing that anyone would build that, let alone find someone to buy it. The guy who bought it is the current eBay seller. Irv From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Feb 23 21:39:10 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:39:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com>, <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: How 'bout how they moved the bubble to the center of the hood. Just a lot going on there if you really look at the photos.......Henry Morrison From m-syork at comcast.net Tue Feb 23 22:34:02 2010 From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:34:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car Message-ID: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> Hey after watching the You Tube thread I got a great idea, lets all chip in a quarter and buy the thing to race at next years 24 hours of Lemons! All it needs is a big bull's eye painted on the rear of the thing Mark Wait a minute, there's a $500 max, change that to 17.5 cents each From brinke at cebridge.net Tue Feb 23 19:05:46 2010 From: brinke at cebridge.net (Bill Rinke) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:05:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: A little clarification here Joe. Yes, the basic rules are based on the CVAR rules but a number of "exceptions" have been listed that allows more freedom than what the basic CVAR rules allow. We absolutely intend to maintain the attitude of Vintage Racing but we do not want our first event to be so tight that no one can make their car meet the rules. I doubt that there are any Kastner Cup cars that would not now comply with the rules utilizing the "exceptions". The Cup cars will run within the normal vintage groups during practice, qualifying and all of the races leading up to the Kastner Cup Race. They will then all run as group 5 in the Kastner Cup Race. I also have the prerogative to move a car to a different class or group. Let's say that there is a TR-4 in group 7 DP and he is running away from everyone very dramatically. I will move that car to a different class or group for the regular group races. That car would then run in group 5 for the Kastner Cup Race. Our rules are posted on the website and I will be happy to try to field any questions regarding them. When a driver completes the Race Entry form he should also complete the Technical Declaration form which is also on the website. Hope this helps a bit, Bill bill at heartlandvintageracing.com ----- Original Message ----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; brinke at cebridge.net Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:33 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by case basis. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we don't get rear disc brakes etc. jg Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2705 - Release Date: 02/23/10 01:34:00 From billb at bnj.com Wed Feb 24 00:24:43 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:24:43 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility In-Reply-To: References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Good clarification but it could use some added certainty. I'm not hauling a car from Oregon to Kansas to be considered on a "case by case" basis. I understand that no sanctioning body wants to say that "anything goes". Last year we were able to tell the FOT racers that they would be able to race, but they would be counseled on the correctness of any modifications to their car, and would be expected to make the required corrections next time. It's really not an issue, we didn't have any cars that were that far off the mark, though there's a few when someone comes a long way they don't want surprises. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:05 PM, Bill Rinke wrote: > A little clarification here Joe. > > Yes, the basic rules are based on the CVAR rules but a number of "exceptions" > have been listed that allows more freedom than what the basic CVAR rules > allow. We absolutely intend to maintain the attitude of Vintage Racing but we > do not want our first event to be so tight that no one can make their car meet > the rules. I doubt that there are any Kastner Cup cars that would not now > comply with the rules utilizing the "exceptions". The Cup cars will run > within the normal vintage groups during practice, qualifying and all of the > races leading up to the Kastner Cup Race. They will then all run as group 5 > in the Kastner Cup Race. > > I also have the prerogative to move a car to a different class or group. > Let's say that there is a TR-4 in group 7 DP and he is running away from > everyone very dramatically. I will move that car to a different class or > group for the regular group races. That car would then run in group 5 for the > Kastner Cup Race. Our rules are posted on the website and I will be happy to > try to field any questions regarding them. > > When a driver completes the Race Entry form he should also complete the > Technical Declaration form which is also on the website. > > Hope this helps a bit, > > Bill > bill at heartlandvintageracing.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; brinke at cebridge.net > Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:33 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility > > > as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. > > For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by > case basis. > > Joe A > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net > To: fot > Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm > Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility > > > Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & > we > don't get rear disc brakes etc. > > jg > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2705 - Release Date: 02/23/10 > 01:34:00 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 58tr3a at videotron.ca Wed Feb 24 03:23:18 2010 From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 05:23:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?iso-8859-1?q?British_Nomex=AE_Flight_Coveralls?= References: <4B835A42.2030602@greenheart.com> Message-ID: These British Coveralls for Bobsled Racing look they should be cheaper. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS7dsdVMh0s&NR=1 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 11:32 PM Subject: [Fot] British Nomex. Flight Coveralls >I thought this might be of interest to some of you.... Nomex... > British.... Cheap outfit for pit crew or drivers? --Justin > > > British Nomex. Flight Coveralls! > > http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=610797 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 58tr3a at videotron.ca > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From John.Reed at wilson.com Wed Feb 24 06:03:56 2010 From: John.Reed at wilson.com (John Reed) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:03:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Poor car. On 2/23/10 8:42 PM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as john.reed at wilson.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Regards, John Reed Global Staff Photographer Creative Services Wilson Sporting Goods Co. 8750 W Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago, Illinois 60631, USA Tel. + 1.773.714.6895, fax +1.773.714.4585 John.Reed at wilson.com www.wilson.com www.amersports.com This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this e-mail is strictly forbidden. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Wed Feb 24 07:00:50 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:00:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com>, , <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com>, Message-ID: OMG!!! Here's the Bad news for future generations. My Kids both think the car is cool especially the fact it has a 302. I am sending the whole lot into the garage for re-education after a lengthy denunciation meeting perhaps a couple hours of reading the shop manual.....................Cheers Henry Morrison From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Feb 24 12:56:25 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:56:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Chicago swap meet this week-end Message-ID: <4B858469.4000607@bright.net> Sorry to be so late and bomb the lists. We will be in our usual spot at the Chicago DuPage county fair grounds swap meet. If you need anything from us, we will do our best to bring it along. There are 2 buildings with vendors. We are located in the building on your left as you come in the main entrance. The first building on the left has a toy show. Our display is at the front end of the center aisle right where you come into the building. Thsi has been our usual spot for the past several years. Pleas stop by and say hello. Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From rikrock at aol.com Wed Feb 24 14:22:54 2010 From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:22:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> Message-ID: <8CC83AEA9814225-4EDC-1FAD@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> Amici, This is my annual invitation to all of you to come run a PHA hillclimb or two this year. Check out www.pahillclimb.org for some info on the schedule and the hills themselves. It's not wheel to wheel racing, I know, but a run up the hill is a VERY intense experience! Rich Rock, PHA VP, Duryea Hillclimb Chairman From robertten1 at aol.com Wed Feb 24 16:13:01 2010 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:13:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC83BE0B9D8A1D-6E70-21E1@webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com> Whoa !! check that interior. Somethin out of MTV's Pimp My Ride . Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis To: 'Friends of Triumph' Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 9:42 pm Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gaf3 at charter.net Wed Feb 24 16:31:48 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> Wow No wonder there are no bids it looks like the Munsters owned it. Glenn Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Feb 24 17:12:08 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 17:12:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> Message-ID: <4B85C058.2010904@dfn.com> Glenn Franco wrote: > Wow > No wonder there are no bids it looks like the Munsters owned it. He might have had a chance to sell it if he'd finished it off properly. Say, added some spinner hubcaps.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Wed Feb 24 17:43:43 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:43:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car In-Reply-To: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> References: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> Message-ID: <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> The owner would have to come way down on his price for it to be eligible for the 24 hours de lemons. I think one of the "kids" here at Cornell built a Saab for the 24hours - he said there is a $500 limit acquiring and preparing the car not counting safety equipment. You have to have some hair to go on that track with those guys in anything less than a '54 buick. It wouldn't be me out there in that TR4 with $500 peers... The only thing to be said about the TR4 is imagine what could have been accomplished if all that effort and money had been spent better. Of course people in the Haight love it - its the Haight... From dave at microworks.net Wed Feb 24 19:04:59 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:04:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car In-Reply-To: <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> References: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B85DACB.6050502@microworks.net> The purchase of the car can be for more then $500 which you can offset by having the reciepts showing you sold items off the car (interior, A/C compressor, etc...) See rule 4.7 http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/rules/ * 4.7: Scavenger Sales:* If you sell pieces off of your car, the money that comes back in can be used to offset the initial purchase price. Just be prepared to convince some exceedingly skeptical judges of the validity of all those transactions. Two friends ran the race down here in AZ last month with different teams and said it was a blast. Something they did not know. If you dropped two wheels off track you got BF. You then had to paint a small cone black and secure it to the roof or your car. Four wheels off and you had to use a large cone. They did not know that and had to scamble to find a cone, paint, drill and bolts to secure the cones. I'm talking to some guys down here to see about building (or should I say gutting) a car to run next year. 3 Series BMW get penalized out of the gate. One of my friends saw his team docked 57 laps before the race started. Thinking about maybe a Honda, although the 3 Series is bulletproof. The car that won the race down here was a Miata. It did 621 laps whereas the the two cars on the podium both did 600. Mark Eginton wrote: > The owner would have to come way down on his price for it to be > eligible for the 24 hours de lemons. I think one of the "kids" here at > Cornell built a Saab for the 24hours - he said there is a $500 limit > acquiring and preparing the car not counting safety equipment. You > have to have some hair to go on that track with those guys in anything > less than a '54 buick. It wouldn't be me out there in that TR4 with > $500 peers... > > The only thing to be said about the TR4 is imagine what could have > been accomplished if all that effort and money had been spent better. > Of course people in the Haight love it - its the Haight... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Feb 24 20:15:54 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 22:15:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Saying of the day Message-ID: Saw this on a BMW forum from someone that races a Z3M Coupe. Racing... because golf, football, and baseball only require one ball. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Feb 25 07:14:48 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 07:14:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st Class to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. Sumner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 Henry, That is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that Dr. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as I found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly Airman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I have the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, that Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, with an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing my ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the Roswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. Did you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this event and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. It is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is had for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I will copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right now. My address is: Robert Johns Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Thu Feb 25 07:57:25 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 9:57:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs Message-ID: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> What is the general consensus on leaf springs such as re-arching, or adding leafs, or removing leafs or leaving as is? The car was originally setup with the stock leaf springs and axle spacers to lower it slightly. thxx, Bob From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Feb 25 07:58:19 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 09:58:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Now Robert Johns at Heartland Park In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <8CC84421A65C226-38E8-DE2D@webmail-d090.sysops.aol.com> Henry....and all, Bob is going to try to join us at Heartland Vintage Grand Prix this August as he did at Watkins Glen. Bob was one of the three "Legends Speak" at Watkins Glen, sharing the spotlight with Ed Diehl and Kas Kastner. We have nothing formal planned for but we expect Bob to hang out with us as an honored guest. Henry, now you will have to come. Make no mistake...this weekend is about TRIUMPHS. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: Bob Johns ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Feb 25, 2010 8:14 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st lass to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. umner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry From: rjohns at woh.rr.com o: dos_gusanos at msn.com C: jeffreykelley at charter.net ubject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? ate: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 enry, hat is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that r. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly irman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I ave the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, hat Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, ith an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing y ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the oswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. id you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this vent and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. t is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is ad for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I ill copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right ow. y address is: obert Johns ubject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? ob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. here is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and he program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send e your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the rivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 05-259-1537 enry, o we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the ars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an luminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after he race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR reviously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. ob Johns Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Feb 25 08:57:56 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:57:56 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs In-Reply-To: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> References: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> Message-ID: <003601cab633$4e4013d0$eac03b70$@com> My leading rule is: As soft as possible, as strong as needed. Cheers Chris: Who is running stock leaf spring on his TR4 -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Gesendet: Donnerstag, 25. Februar 2010 15:57 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs What is the general consensus on leaf springs such as re-arching, or adding leafs, or removing leafs or leaving as is? The car was originally setup with the stock leaf springs and axle spacers to lower it slightly. thxx, Bob Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Feb 25 09:37:29 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:37:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? References: , Message-ID: <9318A6DA20B74C98A27C7D3C8A81A90D@Bucktailus> Henry, First the records for Sebring have been wrong all these years and is supposed to be corrected the next printing. Mike Rothschild and I drove # 34 to 19th. place overall. My car was silver blue at the Ft. Sumner race. Number 60, as confirmed by the program you scanned and sent. If you would please, look over the photos you have and see if #60 shows up in any of the photos. I don't see a #60 TR2 in any of the photo copies that you sent, but all the photos were not copied. That Super 90 Speedster and I had quite a race. His Tonneau cover flew off right into my path and I should have protested, but I was a new kid on the block and didn't want to make waves, besides it would have cost me $10.00 to protest. There was a 356 Coupe that I pushed until he spun it, as I knew would likely happen from my European experience. I wonder if it was the guy whose photo album you now have. Is Bill Randle still around? We will talk about what I think got me the invite to drive for the Factory later. Bob Johns ---- Original Message ----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: Bob Johns ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 9:14 AM Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st Class to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. Sumner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 Henry, That is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that Dr. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as I found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly Airman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I have the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, that Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, with an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing my ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the Roswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. Did you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this event and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. It is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is had for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I will copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right now. My address is: Robert Johns Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Feb 25 14:07:15 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:07:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Message-ID: Tom Householder asked if there were any other TRs at Ft. Sumner in that Oct. 1956 race. Bob Johns ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert Johns To: T. Householder Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 4:01 PM Subject: Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? This will answer your question, But it is interesting that I do not remember any other TRs. At least there were no TRs that I was contesting with. Only the Morgan and the Porsches. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: rjohns at woh.rr.com Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:32 PM Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com Subject: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 01:30:52 -0500 Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 002.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 003.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 004.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 005.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 006.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 007.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 008.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 009.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 011.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 012.jpg] From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Feb 25 15:11:01 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 15:11:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FW: Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: rjohns at woh.rr.com; trhouse at columbus.rr.com; fot at autox.team.net CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: RE: [Fot] Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 14:42:33 -0700 The entry list shows 5 TR's entered. I went through the photos which were pages removed from a photo album and matched up everything based on how they numbered the Porsche for the particular event. The other photos were from other events like the Spring (May) event at Ft Sumner sponsored by the Roswell Sports Car Club. I bought and sold to my dad a white 1957 TR3 (he still has it) that has Black Stripes through the center and a Blue interior with Factory hardtop. It has never been painted and is in good shape other than a few odd dents. The car came out of Roswell and had a dash plaque in the door pocket from the "Pecos Bill Gymkhana" from April of 1960. I have often wondered what other events it participated in. We have never opened the glove box so it's still some kind of time capsule. I'm hoping there's a Luger in there not just old spark plugs. It is a testament to the provenance of Sports Car Racing in those days to think of all the wierd towns that had Sports Car Clubs and put on events. I have programs from the Iraan hill climb in New Mexico (don't have a clue where it was held) and the Mayhill hillclimb also held in New Mexico. Sometime, late sixties early seventies, it just tanked................... Cheers Henry Morrison From jmwagner at greenheart.com Thu Feb 25 21:38:52 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 20:38:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Justin: Not Triumph engine related... YET... but interesting.... Message-ID: <4B87505C.7030109@greenheart.com> Compu-tronix.... interesting... --Justin http://www.compu-tronix.com/DIS8.htm From gt6steve at aol.com Fri Feb 26 08:10:09 2010 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:10:09 -0500 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <8CC850CEBDB304F-4B54-E0C3@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com> Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve From gasket.works at gte.net Fri Feb 26 08:40:44 2010 From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 15:40:44 +0000 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <171335234-1267198838-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-593215767-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve ------Original Message------ From: gt6steve at aol.com Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Sent: Feb 26, 2010 7:10 AM Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gasket.works at gte.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From mlbruner53 at yahoo.com Fri Feb 26 08:48:23 2010 From: mlbruner53 at yahoo.com (Michael Bruner) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 07:48:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] California Speedway In-Reply-To: <8CC850CEBDB304F-4B54-E0C3@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <123125.41274.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'm not going to make it. You guys have fun. Mike Bruner TR4A - #612 Blacksmith Racing --- On Fri, 2/26/10, gt6steve at aol.com wrote: From: gt6steve at aol.com Subject: [Fot] California Speedway To: FOT at autox.team.net Date: Friday, February 26, 2010, 7:10 AM Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as mlbruner53 at yahoo.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Feb 26 09:01:45 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 11:01:45 EST Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <11076.207c9a87.38b94a69@cs.com> In a message dated 2/26/2010 9:50:15 AM Central Standard Time, gasket.works at gte.net writes: > I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve > I was still moving a lot of snow yesterday...wish I was there. Joe A From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Fri Feb 26 09:24:37 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:24:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway References: <11076.207c9a87.38b94a69@cs.com> Message-ID: <7D868E031C6249098E0801C130B1BE89@latitudefb1e41> Texas World Speedway is calling and my car is on the trailer ready to answer. This is CVAR's first race weekend of the year. We have 2 TR4's, a TR3, a GT6 and 2 Spitfires attending. We had snow earlier this week but it should be sunny and in the 60's this weekend. Wish you all could be here. Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; ; Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] California Speedway > In a message dated 2/26/2010 9:50:15 AM Central Standard Time, > gasket.works at gte.net writes: > > >> I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve >> > > I was still moving a lot of snow yesterday...wish I was there. > > Joe A > _______________________________________________ From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Fri Feb 26 20:32:38 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 22:32:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] loss Message-ID: <003101cab75d$84c33e70$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi all, I just got word from Oscar Koveleski that his mechanic Jack Deren's wife Terry has died. I don't know the circumstances. Terry Deren was Terry Thompson before she married Jack. Last Sept at the Glen, we were looking at some old photos of drivers from years past and Terry said she knew most of them; also said she had a cousin named Mickey. I don't think she was BS'ing me. Jack worked for Roger Penske when Roger still drove. He's been around a long time and took care of Oscar's CanAm cars, including when Tony A to Z drove for him. Also the Red Lobster GTP cars. I met them in 1969. Great folks. RIP Terry. Bill From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sat Feb 27 13:20:23 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:20:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] roll center Tr-6 Message-ID: <3CEE00A63DC443EDA0C645F02B371DBA@INSPIRON> Has anyone measured the roll center on a Tr and even better made modifications to improve it thanks rob From Billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 27 19:53:22 2010 From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 16:53:22 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Brake Bias In-Reply-To: <4B89B9DA.8090508@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B89B9DA.8090508@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <8966A721-13EC-49BC-B160-B96DD67D1536@bnj.com> It doesn't change all that much track to track, unless a track has a really special feature like a very slow corner after a long straight--like Road America. That's pretty much what I do--at the beginning of a test and tune day or first practice on a track that I haven't had much experience with I'll try some very hard braking while I'm on a straight section--after making very sure there's no one behind me. Really stand on it and try to hold the brakes at the limit of adhesion. If it tracks perfectly straight I know I can use more front bias. I add it until the back end starts to get really light. How that manifests itself is different on different cars. Peyote just gets tail happy but won't spin usually, other cars I've tried this with can get into a spin pretty quickly. Since you're going straight you can usually avoid a full spin by easing off the brakes. If you just lift it will probably snap spin (one of those left-right-left things that just get worse). Not that big a deal, get both pedals in and ride it out. Try not to flat spot the tires and do the entire maneuver in a place where a spin wont stick you into a rail. I'd also do this if I'm changing tires for some reason. The exception is Monterey or other General Racing events where I'm required to use Dunlops. I don't bother trying to optimize Dunlops. there's never enough track time at those events and the tires are so marginal that a little tweaking won't help. Once you have the bias dialed in on the straight, try it in a fast corner. If you have too much front bias the car will understeer when you are continuously braking while turning. If trail braking is important for the track then it makes sense to back off a little. Most tracks I race on, trail braking is not important other than keeping the car settled. The exception is Sears Point (Infineon) which has two turns that work best with late braking and a lot of trail. It's a little hard to work this out since a little sudden braking in a turn will also stop understeer by transferring weight to the front wheels. What I'm talking about is the braking that goes on after the weight has shifted forward, in other words you brake hard to the turn in, ease off a little as you start turning but maintain some steady braking as you head for the apex. If the car understeers then, you might get some relief with less bias. Winter's been great. A little tsunami scare this morning kept me from surfing, but other than that... On Feb 27, 2010, at 2:33 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > Curious how you set the brake bias on your car. Left to my own devices, I would bias forward then add more rear till the back wants to pass the front on corner braking and back off. How do you get it settled in? Does it change much by track e.g. fast corners vs slow tight corner dominated tracks or do you set it and forget it? > > Hope the winter is treating you well... > > Best, > > M From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Mon Feb 1 03:16:41 2010 From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 21:16:41 +1100 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1500 Brake Cap Message-ID: I am hoping someone on the list will know where to purchase a Spitfire 1500, Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap? This is the Cap in need has the small thread. Not the TR6 type large cap. I don't mind if I have to purchase the complete reservoir with cap. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated. Thanks Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR-4 Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Feb 1 03:27:18 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 11:27:18 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Inside In-Reply-To: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> References: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> Message-ID: <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> Good that none of us was born as an combustion engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy_yaAOKjA8&feature=related Cheers Chris From spitfiresuz at 141.com Mon Feb 1 04:31:04 2010 From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (Susan Kahler) Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 06:31:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Inside In-Reply-To: <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> References: <20100131213940.202FJ.27095.imail@fed1rmwml31> <002201caa329$22f0bf30$68d23d90$@com> Message-ID: <4B66BB78.40608@141.com> /kaS169: Permission denied From spitfiresuz at 141.com Mon Feb 1 06:45:26 2010 From: spitfiresuz at 141.com (spitfiresuz at 141.com) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 08:45:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Inside Message-ID: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> Awesome video, Chris! And I found this great video on valve float in the "Related Videos" category: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY Susan :) -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From jeff_durant at comcast.net Mon Feb 1 08:44:37 2010 From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (jeff_durant at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 15:44:37 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups Message-ID: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm rebuilding a CR gearbox for my TR6 using a Kastner gearset and realized I used my last factory syncro cups on another CR gearbox build. Who offers the best (closest to factory) syncro cups for the big TR's these days? I've tried Moss cups I'm my brother's TR4A trans rebuild and they were marginal. Anyone tried the TRF or Rimmer's premium ones? Thanks, Jeff D. TR6 #12 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From Gt6steve at aol.com Mon Feb 1 09:18:24 2010 From: Gt6steve at aol.com (Gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 11:18:24 EST Subject: [Fot] Towing Message-ID: <78e.7daef18.389858d0@aol.com> Amazingly Kas, I was offered that truck Saturday morning for $3000. Honestly! A converted Snap-On truck setup for a motorcycle race team. Has some Cummins Turbodiesel. I will be offering it to a racer at work in a few hours... In a message dated 1/31/2010 6:39:45 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, kaskas at cox.net writes: So enough of this. You need a 400 HP truck that has sleeping for five, and cooking, and gets 23 mpg, while going uphill with the AC blooming full chat and brakes that can stop a locomotive. For this we will pay about $3000. Okay now that is settled, lets talk about cars.. -- From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Mon Feb 1 17:50:12 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 19:50:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] search "spec race fords fly" at Utube Message-ID: I just found this on U tube This is another view of getting run over at Summit point last labor day rob From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Feb 1 19:00:55 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Mon, 01 Feb 2010 21:00:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Searching for Steve Balfor Message-ID: <4B678757.8030803@cfl.rr.com> Sorry to bomb the list but would Steve Balfor please contact me off list. I have some Sebring 1957 TR3 questions. thxx, Bob From ofbracing at nefcom.net Tue Feb 2 10:06:16 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Feb 2 11:29:52 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 13:29:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> References: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: Don, I found a 200 watt magnetic block heater at a Bumper to Bumper parts store about a year ago. Just stick it to the side of the block under the intake and plug it in. Brad On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 12:06 PM, ofbracing wrote: > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Feb 2 11:30:55 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 13:30:55 EST Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX - KASTNER CUP Message-ID: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> FOT, We have passed 35 drivers that have have registered an intent to run the KASTNER CUP. But I still have not heard from some of the usual suspects. I will publish the list at the end of the week and submit the list to Classic Motorsports. In the past they have published the names of the drivers along with the latest news on this event. Of special note, it appears that we can expect SCCA CHAMPION SAM HALKIAS to bring FOUR TR6s with the SCCA Champ Car to be put on display. Perhaps it is a candidate for Honorary Pace Car.....how cool would that be? THIS LOOKS LIKE THE YEAR OF THE TR6...........as it should be. Two of the Three Sebring TR4s prepared by Kas Kastner will be there...... And more..... Let me hear from you so I can get this list to Bill Brinke and Gary Fuqua (ORGANIZERS) and get on to something else. If you are a vendor, take a look at the proposal for vendors. $100 for a 10 x 20. Regards, Joe Alexander From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Feb 2 09:15:29 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 10:15:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Jeff, I don't see any other responses, so I'll give it a shot. Sam Clark and I noted this problem in our transmission rebuild articles at vtr.com. This is a case where new is not always better. I measure them first and reuse them if they are not worn out. If you have to replace them, Victoria British seems to have the worst ones. The ones from the other dealers are usable, but worse than the originals. This is based on experience from a few years back. I have not tried the premium ones. They must be relatively new. I have bought NOS sychro rings on ebay. Larry jeff_durant at comcast.net wrote: > I'm rebuilding a CR gearbox for my TR6 using a Kastner gearset and realized I used my last factory syncro cups on another CR gearbox build. Who offers the best (closest to factory) syncro cups for the big TR's these days? I've tried Moss cups I'm my brother's TR4A trans rebuild and they were marginal. Anyone tried the TRF or Rimmer's premium ones? > Thanks, > Jeff D. > TR6 #12 > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as cartravel at pobox.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 2 12:19:19 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 12:19:19 -0700 Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX - KASTNER CUP In-Reply-To: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> References: <43ba.2ad95d9.3899c95f@cs.com> Message-ID: <4B687AB7.4020509@bradakis.com> After the disappointment of last year when illness derailed my Portland plans I really don't want to miss this one! mjb. From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 2 12:41:59 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 14:41:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Message-ID: Hi, Here's another data point - I think Hardy Prentiss mentioned on this list that re-using the old ones is a reasonable practice. You can recondition them as long as the cones are are not badly worn. You just work the flat face 'till you get your dimensions. At least that's what I've done more than a few times. The new pieces that I got from TRF in the last 5 or so years seem to be reasonable quality. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From cartravel at pobox.com Tue Feb 2 13:50:25 2010 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:50:25 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Inside Valve Bounce In-Reply-To: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010211134526704@M2W108.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <4B689011.2090607@pobox.com> That's a neat video. I'll add that link to my website. However, there is more to valve bounce than just spring pressure. The profile of the camshaft also has a lot to do it. Here are some other interesting videos. http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/high_speed_video/#Mechanisms Larry spitfiresuz at 141.com wrote: > Awesome video, Chris! And I found this great video on valve float in the > "Related Videos" category: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY > > > Susan :) From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Feb 2 16:52:18 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 18:52:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups References: <7311562-1265039005-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1853479148-@bda059.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4B684FA1.7070700@pobox.com> Message-ID: <6227878829BB4F9E94DDA0F81C614EEA@userb38463fba5> Call Quantum Mechanics and get them from him. Good quality parts from a guy who knows good from bad. NIL and all that stuff. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Young" To: Cc: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups > Jeff, > I don't see any other responses, so I'll give it a shot. > > Sam Clark and I noted this problem in our transmission rebuild articles > at vtr.com. This is a case where new is not always better. I measure > them first and reuse them if they are not worn out. If you have to > replace them, Victoria British seems to have the worst ones. The ones > from the other dealers are usable, but worse than the originals. This is > based on experience from a few years back. I have not tried the premium > ones. They must be relatively new. I have bought NOS sychro rings on > ebay. > Larry From jaboruch at netzero.net Tue Feb 2 17:09:41 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 00:09:41 GMT Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil heater that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they may not be available. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From VANDECARR at aol.com Tue Feb 2 18:47:37 2010 From: VANDECARR at aol.com (VANDECARR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 20:47:37 EST Subject: [Fot] light weight batteries Message-ID: I use a PC625 - Odyssey Battery. It's a dry cell design and can be mounted vertical or horizontal. Small weighs under 7 lbs. and when it was in my TR it would easily crank over the V8 that was in it. I now have it in my formula car and have no problems with it for 3 years. web site http://www.odysseybatteries.net Dean VanDeCarr From robertten1 at aol.com Tue Feb 2 20:42:09 2010 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 02 Feb 2010 22:42:09 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or not. Just a thought, Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Joe Boruch To: ofbracing at nefcom.net Cc: FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil heater that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they may not be available. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From kaskas at cox.net Tue Feb 2 21:37:03 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 20:37:03 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Not that this is possible now, but when I was a telegrapher for the Union Pacific Railroad,( may they go in peace), I put a signal lantern (kerosene) next to the engine and a blanket over the whole engine, next morning it was just fine in sub Zero Wyoming weather, and started right up.. -- Never be beaten by equipment From tr4racing at googlemail.com Wed Feb 3 02:59:04 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:59:04 +0100 Subject: [Fot] The truth In-Reply-To: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> References: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Message-ID: <001201caa4b7$87019a00$9504ce00$@com> http://en.tackfilm.se/?id=1265186032853RA55&q=low Have fun. Chris From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Feb 3 03:28:49 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 05:28:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: My dad had one of those in a car when I was a kid. Apparently it didn't regulate to well and it got overly hot, ruined the oil which subsequently ruined the engine. He talked about that thing for years after wards. I'm assuming if they sell them now they are probably a little better regulated. Brad On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:42 PM, wrote: > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bkahler1 at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From goodparts at verizon.net Wed Feb 3 04:23:28 2010 From: goodparts at verizon.net (Richard Good) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 06:23:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] carb question Message-ID: <003001caa4c3$52b39800$6402a8c0@richardyap2xwy> Can anyone answer this question from one of my customers? Why did they lengthen the dashpot height on the Stromberg 175CD carb,after the TR4 ? Thanks, Richard Good Good Parts From rjl6n at cstone.net Wed Feb 3 04:52:21 2010 From: rjl6n at cstone.net (rjl6n at cstone.net) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 06:52:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> References: <20100202233703.R9R06.84222.imail@fed1rmwml46> Message-ID: I've done the same thing with a 100 watt trouble light, and it was enough to keep the engine warm enough to start on a ski trip to Quebec (-35 degrees F). John On Tue, February 2, 2010 11:37 pm, Kas Kastner wrote: > Not that this is possible now, but when I was a telegrapher for the Union > Pacific Railroad,( may they go in peace), I put a signal lantern > (kerosene) next to the engine and a blanket over the whole engine, next > morning it was just fine in sub Zero Wyoming weather, and started right > up.. > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rjl at gt-classics.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jerrybarr at charter.net Wed Feb 3 07:25:05 2010 From: jerrybarr at charter.net (Jerry Barr) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 08:25:05 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I had one and it did not do much in the way of heating the oil. On Feb 2, 2010, at 9:42 PM, robertten1 at aol.com wrote: > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jerrybarr at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Wed Feb 3 08:21:09 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 07:21:09 -0800 Subject: [Fot] engine heater Message-ID: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. ~Steve From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Feb 3 10:42:36 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 09:42:36 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B69B58C.7040809@greenheart.com> I don't know what you guys are talking about. --Justin Los Angeles, CA ;-) From ofbracing at nefcom.net Wed Feb 3 10:55:55 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 12:55:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> I've about decided to try a small catalytic heater behind the grill to blow hot air through the radiator and oil cooler, which should also heat the engine compartment. My grill is attached by 2 screws and 2 tie wraps so it's easy to remove and replace. It rarely gets below freezing where we race so the main issue is to make it easier to start in the mornings, but it's better to be safe than sorry, especially without antifreeze. Thanks, Don -----Original Message----- Steven Belfer If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. From igofaster at att.net Wed Feb 3 11:33:25 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:33:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> References: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Steve & FoT... we are required to run straight water, I too have been concerned about our little Triumph in the paddock when the temp's are freezing..been told we would need a long hard freeze overnight to harm the cars... I ain't buying it. Being in the boat business 10 years ago I've seen cast iron blocks freeze in boats when the temp hovered around 27-30 degrees in one night. Problem is an aluminum radiator and attaching a magnet to it... I kinda like the idea of the little magnet block heater... I'm my garage at home, I'll cover the engine bay with a thick moving blanket and place one of the long space heaters under the front of the car... other than that???? Bobby Whitehead 1970GT6 CVAR DP GP7 ________________________________ From: Steven Belfer To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010 9:21:09 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] engine heater If you're running straight water as coolant you may want to consider keeping the radiator above freezing temp as well as the engine block. ~Steve _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as igofaster at att.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team..net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 3 12:48:40 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 11:48:40 -0800 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <18A81D24-8290-45F7-A160-E0E433CF5DF9@earthlink.net> <236080.52794.qm@web180712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <07533F9B5A14421BA3DC8ED141B9931B@jdnet.deere.com> > other than that???? If you are only worried about temps a few degrees below freezing, say down to 20F, then just sticking a 100 watt trouble light under the closed hood actually works pretty good. Just don't forget to remove it before starting the engine! Years ago we had a car that didn't like to start when it was below freezing. Dad added a 110v heater that teed into the regular heater lines, and plugged it into the porch light. He'd flip the light on before he got dressed, and by the time he'd finished his coffee, that old Chevy would start right up. Even blew moderately warm air from the heater (compared to outdoors anyway). -- Randall From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Wed Feb 3 14:56:12 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Terry and Cindy) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 07:56:12 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR3/4/5/6 Syncro Cups In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100203215614.PNRC1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> I have found 2 problems with the copies that abound. Firstly, the taper angle is wrongly cut. This can be detected by putting some bearing blue on the syncro ring then pressing it onto the gear and rotating it. A mis-match is obvious. The second problem is the thickness. Once the taper angle is proven to be correct, the back clearance between the dog teeth and the mating face on the gear is down as low as O.010". This is basically worn out. Thankfully, we still have a few new STANPART ones left here. Terry O'Beirne, Australia From niteseeker at mac.com Wed Feb 3 15:52:35 2010 From: niteseeker at mac.com (dick ross) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 16:52:35 -0600 Subject: [Fot] engine heater In-Reply-To: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> References: <92D339D740904FBE90FB8244E6655436@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: <57B15475-BF16-419F-92E2-73F0A9195D5C@mac.com> Can always do what my grandfather did with his model T. Place a pan of hot coals under the engine. From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Wed Feb 3 16:11:50 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 18:11:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater References: <5659D33DD1A341018D8DA130714D8430@Dell5100Laptop> Message-ID: <005001caa526$45fa1cc0$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> I used to have a Dodge Coronet wagon that I used for various ski trips. Dodge had an option to heat the engine block that consisted of knocking out a soft plug and installing a replacement that had a heater element in it. Plug it into 110v and leave overnight; worked great; kept the coolant warm. Only drawback was that you had to have the right sized soft plug. The in-line heater hose setup works ok too. The dipstick on my Dodge van is about 4 feet long so a dipstick heater probably wouldn't reach the oil level! The trouble light under the hood is as cheap and easy as anything. This could make for a good joke for certain Eastern European types (Oscar Koveleski?) Make sure it's a 100 watt bulb and not flourescent! Couldn't resist. Bill----- Original Message ----- From: "ofbracing" To: "FOT" Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 12:06 PM Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Wed Feb 3 17:26:16 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 19:26:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Engine heater In-Reply-To: <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <20100202.190941.20780.1@webmail01.dca.untd.com> <8CC7299FF468375-29D4-1B828@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well > or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil > pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening > they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Wed Feb 3 19:59:51 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 02:59:51 GMT Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <20100203.215951.16856.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> They have block heaters and if you keep them plugged in constantly they will jack up your electric bill. I made that mistake. Joe ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> To: , Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 19:26:16 -0500 diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that > replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well > or > not. > > Just a thought, > Bob T > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Boruch > To: ofbracing at nefcom.net > Cc: FOT at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > > A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil > pan. > Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil > heater > that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening > they > may not be available. Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: "ofbracing" > To: "FOT" > Subject: [Fot] Engine heater > Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 > > As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd > like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at > the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated > trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What > have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U > 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=NGuZH7Dzth3CpPiUVncqIwAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA= From tdwark at mpinet.net Wed Feb 3 21:20:48 2010 From: tdwark at mpinet.net (tdwark at mpinet.net) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 23:20:48 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <18842072.1265257248498.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Rob All vehicles, that heaters are installed are called Block heaters, that heat the coolant that then transfers heat to the rest of the engine.....that includes the oil and everything else...... This has nothing to do with some diesel engines that require glow plugs to start.....It makes starting them much easier. Some people choose to install block heaters on Gas engines in the colder areas of the country, for the same reason there installed on diesel engines, Big Trucks, etc.......Pass this along to the rest of the FOT. btw, for you guy's that want to keep your race car engines warm, over night.......buy a heating pad, blanket or 150 watt bulb under the hood in a reflector.........this will do it....... Regards Tom Wark -----Original Message----- >From: Rob <19to1tr6 at comcast.net> >Sent: Feb 3, 2010 7:26 PM >To: fot at autox.team.net, robertten1 at aol.com >Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > >diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I >am not sure what they heat up. rob >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:42 PM >Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater > > >> I remember back when we sold an engine oil heater that was a unit that >> replaced the dipstick. Don't remember hearing if they really worked well >> or >> not. >> >> Just a thought, >> Bob T >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Joe Boruch >> To: ofbracing at nefcom.net >> Cc: FOT at autox.team.net >> Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2010 7:09 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Engine heater >> >> >> A magnetic heater on the oil pan works well too, if you have a steel oil >> pan. >> Keeping the oil warm works well for me. You may be able to find an oil >> heater >> that threads into the pan's drain hole, but with such a small opening >> they >> may not be available. Joe >> >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: "ofbracing" >> To: "FOT" >> Subject: [Fot] Engine heater >> Date: Tue, 2 Feb 2010 12:06:16 -0500 >> >> As one of the lucky ones who get to race throughout the winter months, I'd >> like some suggestions as to good ways to keep an engine warm overnight at >> the track when it gets down to the 30s-40s? Putting the car in a heated >> trailer isn't an option in our case since we're sleeping in there. What >> have you tried that actually worked? Thanks, Don >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> Diet Help >> Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. >> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=SJB9nfU1gCeTQQhAT8QevwAAJz6U >> 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tdwark at mpinet.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From WEmery7451 at aol.com Wed Feb 3 21:35:06 2010 From: WEmery7451 at aol.com (WEmery7451 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 23:35:06 EST Subject: [Fot] Engine heater Message-ID: <204e4.7c21e4ac.389ba87a@aol.com> In a message dated 2/3/10 6:00:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, 19to1tr6 at comcast.net writes: << Diesels are plugged in all the time but that's for the glow plugs right? I am not sure what they heat up. >> My boy's TR-7 sits outside all winter with nothing more than water and water wetter in the radiator, and a trouble light under the hood. I told him several times that that light may not keep his radiator and block from freezing, especially if the bulb burns out. It does get cold in the mountains of north central Pennsylvania. If you can find an older heating pad without a timer on it, you could place it on the top of the engine and plug it in. I use three of them to warm small tents for outdoor cats. An electric blanket should also work. From mark at bradakis.com Wed Feb 3 22:02:13 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 22:02:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff Message-ID: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Feb 3 22:03:15 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 03 Feb 2010 21:03:15 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Justin: Race car for sale in CA Message-ID: <4B6A5513.5050108@greenheart.com> Just passing this along.... --Justin http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/1584659449.html From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 4 00:51:34 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 00:51:34 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get lost! :) Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 10:02 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Feb 4 01:05:32 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 04 Feb 2010 01:05:32 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Joe Curry wrote: > Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get > lost! :) > Yes, he is the lucky passenger. Looks like a neat ride. mjb. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 4 04:10:17 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 03:10:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <633208.48218.qm@web80805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That is a special 2 seat U2. Notice the chase vehicle? Pontiac GP. ________________________________ From: Mark J Bradakis To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 3:05:32 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff Joe Curry wrote: > Isn't that James May from "Top Gear"? If so, I am surprised he didn't get > lost! :) > Yes, he is the lucky passenger. Looks like a neat ride. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as dmitchel at sbcglobal.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From timmurph at fastbytes.com Thu Feb 4 08:40:18 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 09:40:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff In-Reply-To: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000001caa5b0$5b7d5cd0$12781670$@com> Thanks for sharing the video, fantastic! Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 11:02 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Off topic, airplane stuff http://www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/ mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From ofbracing at nefcom.net Thu Feb 4 12:14:23 2010 From: ofbracing at nefcom.net (ofbracing) Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 14:14:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Road Atlanta event Feb 20-21, 2010 Message-ID: <6756969AE34E4B049772DE49C08D3B62@Dell5100Laptop> The Triumph Ghetto will be at Road Atlanta in two weeks (see VDCA event notice below). If any FOTers are going to be there, come see us. Don -----Original Message----- From: VDCA Race Director [mailto:Grandwazoo at earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 4:36 PM To: donmarshall at nefcom.net Subject: Road Atlanta event Feb 20-21, 2010 Feb 3, 2010 Dear VDCA Members and Friends: In about two weeks, our club will begin its 2010 racing season and it will be anything but ordinary as we are going to Road Atlanta for the first time in our history. That's right, on Feb 20 and 21, VDCA will visit one of the nation's most revered road racing circuits with a two day vintage race meeting. We hope you are planning to join us for this historic event. Some of you have raced Road Atlanta before, others never. Regardless, we need your support. We are a club devoted solely to its members. We offer the best racing value at the best tracks possible. Your entry is our key measure of success. Without you, tracks like Road Atlanta are simply outside our reach. As members of VDCA your loyalty is what makes us different, better, and special. We recognize that you have a choice of racing venues and hosting organizations. We believe that none offer a better mix of period competition and camaraderie, all at the tracks where you want to compete. And to continue this commitment, your participation is needed at VDCA weekends. I want to again personally invite you to come to Road Atlanta for our inaugural event. Entry is easy by going to our website, vintagedrive.com, downloading and completing the entry form, and mailing it to Sandy Jackson this week. We have a great weekend planned including a Mexican Fiesta Social on Saturday night at Dick Barbour Racing hosted by several sponsors that want this weekend to succeed.. See you at Road Atlanta! Thanks for entering! Thanks for supporting VDCA! Ray Morgan Road Atlanta Event Chairman From gasket.works at verizon.net Fri Feb 5 08:50:48 2010 From: gasket.works at verizon.net (MORDY DUNST) Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 07:50:48 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Tappets... References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com> <060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew> <4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> FYI NO Financial interest... I just purchased a set of the finest looking Tappets for a TR4 I have ever seen. ( Fyi... a few years back I had about ten sets made out of A2 Tool steel) . These are so superior in quality. You could shave of the brilliance of the mirror finish. They are harder than RC 60. In a figure of speech called a "litote" they are not " not inexpensive" but, they look like a deal well worth the effort. Contact Greg Solo's Engine room.831.429.1800 in Santac Cruz. . Mordy M.N.Dunst Gasket Works USA, LLC www.Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 ph 626.628.3777 fx Triple R Munitions, Inc. Class 6 Certified F.F.L. 626.201.9471 GMT -8 Pacific From fubog1 at aol.com Fri Feb 5 11:54:03 2010 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2010 13:54:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tappets... In-Reply-To: <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> References: <4B6A54D5.3090504@bradakis.com><060BC9EB34D8438B9A68B1A7675130E0@joepentiumnew><4B6A7FCC.6050709@bradakis.com> <000601caa67a$fca393c0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> Message-ID: <8CC74ABB8A35800-A18-2912@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> Ditto that! I am in the process of fitting a set in an engine right now, VERY impressed with these so far, I expect that they will work well. Thanks to Greg! Glen -----Original Message----- From: MORDY DUNST To: 'Friends of Triumph' Sent: Fri, Feb 5, 2010 10:50 am Subject: [Fot] Tappets... FYI NO Financial interest... I just purchased a set of the finest looking Tappets for a TR4 I have ever seen. ( Fyi... a few years back I had about ten sets made out of A2 Tool steel) . These are so superior in quality. You could shave of the brilliance of the mirror finish. They are harder than RC 60. In a figure of speech called a "litote" they are not " not inexpensive" but, they look like a deal well worth the effort. Contact Greg Solo's Engine room.831.429.1800 in Santac Cruz. . Mordy M.N.Dunst Gasket Works USA, LLC www.Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 ph 626.628.3777 fx Triple R Munitions, Inc. Class 6 Certified F.F.L. 626.201.9471 GMT -8 Pacific Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as fubog1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rocky at spitfire4.com Fri Feb 5 22:29:26 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 23:29:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 Message-ID: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> You car nuts might enjoy this link that my sister-in-law sent me. Traffic in 1906 -- San Francisco's Market Street. Link is at the bottom. You probably have to cut-n-paste. Despite the description below, this was shot from a cable car, not a streetcar. The difference, cable cars are pulled from a below-street-level cable -- see the slot between the tracks. Also the oncoming cars are cable cars -- open front, enclosed back, just like the Powell Street cars of today. Streetcars are longer, completely enclosed, powered by an overhead electrical wire -- a couple of them cross in front of the cable car. That's the spire of the Ferry Building (it's still there today) straight ahead, so the cable car is traveling easterly. (I lived in San Francisco from first grade through high school. No, I didn't live there in 1906!!) --Rocky Entriken This is great, well worth watching. San Francisco Market St 1906. This is fascinating to watch. 7-minute San Francisco street car ride 1906 - No lights, no traffic direction, all at the pace of a horse or bicycle. Thought the young people might not believe what life was like 100 years ago! Even some cars with right hand drive! This fascinating bit of film was shot from the San Francisco Market Street car estimated taken just a few days before the 1906 earthquake. Amazing to see the casual way the early cars just wove in an out of traffic and the pedestrians seemingly taking their lives in their hands as they walked in front of anything on wheels. Notice the heavy goods wagons running on tracks on the right as they get close to the Ferry Building . The wagons appear to have extra large steel wheels with a standard track width. And what about the fat cop with his truncheon ready to deal with any civil disturbances. Wonder what he did during the earthquake. Some comment from a local historian: - This gets identified as 1905 to 1909, but recent research by some transit experts concludes that it was done possibly on Monday, April 16, 1906 or Tuesday, April 17! Yep a day or two before the earthquake that would greatly alter this landscape. The other interesting thing is to watch the traffic and the chances people took when crossing the street. Street accidents were endemic throughout the US as the country changed with the advent of the horseless carriage. The cable cars that are visible were running at a predictable 9.2 MPH. Horses moved slowly on city streets too. But the automobile could reach speeds of 20 MPH! Early autos had the steering wheel on the right then we standardized it to the left. The rules of the road were evolving. Major train crossing had crossing lights, but rural crossing were only marked with a sign and you were responsible for your own safety in crossing the tracks and looking for the train coming. Even signal lights in cities didn't evolve until the 1920s. The cop directing traffic was about the only traffic control in use until then. As life sped up, we devised ways to protect the public, but it evolved slowly and unfortunately a lot of people died on city streets. http://www.flixxy.com/san-francisco-1905-historical-footage.htm From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Feb 6 03:56:03 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:56:03 +0100 Subject: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 In-Reply-To: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> References: <39B1F0BB96F34CE1A29800646F175615@rocky> Message-ID: <000901caa71a$fbb0b290$f31217b0$@com> Surprising that the bicycle rider didn't fall into the slot of the cable car. And the aspect ratio was a little stretched so the slim ancient cars look like a wide F1 race :-) Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rocky Entriken Gesendet: Samstag, 6. Februar 2010 06:29 An: .Wichita Region; .Triumph List; .Team.Net Betreff: [Fot] San Francisco Traffic 1906 http://www.flixxy.com/san-francisco-1905-historical-footage.htm Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From igofaster at att.net Sat Feb 6 09:06:33 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:06:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats Message-ID: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? Bobby Whitehead 1971 TR6 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Feb 6 11:36:52 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 13:36:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC75727C64C897-4988-1CAE7@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> I went to Shell Valley and bought their fibreglass seats used in COBRA KITS. I think it was about $100 for the pair. WYOTECH upholstered them very nicely. A local shop could likely replicate mine for $200-300 for the pair. I fabricated some simple brackets, put lightening holes in them and powder coated. Excellent results!!! photobucket.com/ambro But what about the Miata Seats and UNCLE JACK'S (design) Conversion KIT? We are doing another production run of these kits, due in two weeks, btw. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Bobby Whitehead To: FoT Triumph Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2010 10:06 am Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash nd the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost ffective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on he market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a hop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a ittle over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda lasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been recked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a ad time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this orning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice f color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? Bobby Whitehead 971 TR6 970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mike.mehl at yahoo.com Sat Feb 6 12:43:21 2010 From: mike.mehl at yahoo.com (Mike Mehl) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 11:43:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question Message-ID: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl From emanteno at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 12:57:37 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 13:57:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <354a1781002061157o3bd292b3jf50fc50800fb7967@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 10:06 AM, Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden > dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem > is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the > nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over > $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... > VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We > spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint > last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks > like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new > seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company > building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 > range each... Any ideas FoT? > Now you know why so many TR6's have Miata seats in them. Irv From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 6 17:01:31 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 16:01:31 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Typically, you want it as high as possible, without the engine overheating first. The fan sucks power and fuel, so don't run it unless necessary. Most OEM sensors turn on around 200F or even higher. But it depends on the situation. If you're sitting in a grid or something, you might want to keep the motor cooler for best power on take-off. Randall From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Feb 6 17:03:16 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 19:03:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Bobby I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale for a fairly reasonable cost. I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same stuff. Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we have recovered TR7's and MGB's. The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in a TR. Good Luck Glenn Franco 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Feb 6 17:07:30 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 19:07:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Message-ID: <4B6E0442.4010201@charter.net> Where are you located?? We are in Michigan. We could help Glenn Glenn Franco wrote: > Bobby > I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) > TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act > now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale > for a fairly reasonable cost. > I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit > and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the > British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same > stuff. > Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. > These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you > buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff > to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we > have recovered TR7's and MGB's. > The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look > good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is > mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in > a TR. > Good Luck > Glenn Franco > 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's > > Bobby Whitehead wrote: >> I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the >> wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be >> rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. >> Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, >> foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the >> work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a >> little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a >> complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year >> (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks >> like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for >> new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a >> company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color >> for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? >> >> Bobby Whitehead >> 1971 TR6 >> 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From LimeyV8 at aol.com Sat Feb 6 17:15:00 2010 From: LimeyV8 at aol.com (LimeyV8 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 19:15:00 EST Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats Message-ID: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> last time I bought that stuff, it was A LOT cheaper to order it from Rimmer and pay the shipping - the original type seat covers, foam etc are coming from England anyway Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 2/6/2010 1:01:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, igofaster at att.net writes: Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Feb 6 18:59:47 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 17:59:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <70E27F7BD0DC42F1B9A3AA2AAE1A70D3@Pendys> Mike; different rigs take different settings, my wifes V8 powered TR4 has to come on by 180ish , if i set it at 190 it has a tougher time on a warm day to bring her down.My early mustang (basically same V8 and radiator) has no problem coming on at 190 and dropping, the TR4 racer does not have any fans elec. or mech. at all and even on a very hot day, on track it can't get above 165-170, to big of a radiator. You will have to play with it a little to suit you, found that the Painless Wireing kit works pretty good ............Mark P #65 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 11:43 AM Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > Thanks!!!!! > > Mike Mehl > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Feb 6 20:08:00 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 06 Feb 2010 22:08:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Glenn, The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. Third production run just sold out. Joe A. -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco To: Bobby Whitehead Cc: FoT Triumph Sent: Sat, Feb 6, 2010 6:03 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Bobby I just went through this with my 74 TR6 (made from 3 cars) TRF had the seat foam kits on sale for just under $300 and if you act now you can get the Victoria Brit (winter sale) Vinyl covers on sale for a fairly reasonable cost. I've purchased seat covers for Spits and TR's from Moss and Vic Brit and I have to assume that there are only so many suppliers in the British Car Supplier pipeline and I think they are selling the same stuff. Go with the lowest cost as it will likely be from the same supplier. These seat covers are incredibly simple to recover especially if you buy new seat foams. Try to do it yourself. I just purchased the stuff to do on a 74. My wife and I cut and sewed a new set for our 71 and we have recovered TR7's and MGB's. The other option is the Miata seats, which are reasonable and look good in the car. I have a couple sets of those as well. The problem is mounting and what is out there is a whole lot of steel to put them in a TR. Good Luck Glenn Franco 72 Spit racer, 76 spit and several TR's Bobby Whitehead wrote: > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:24:32 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:24:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> Do you have a charging system? Put an electric fan on (pull type) and run it all the time. Anytime the car is up to temperature, run it. It's going to be needed on the grid, pace lap, and maybe in a draft. In free air at speed, it's not going to do anything. I ask about a charging system because, I'm not sure of your set up / race length. Without a charging system, I don't know whether your particular set up can afford the draw (it's not a lot) for an entire race. I seem to remember in 2004 at Watkins Glen, when they had a lot of MGs whch led to a slow pace lap, some of those without fans cooked their motors. Ouch. It would be ashame to cook a $10k+ race engine when a $100 fan would have prevented it. And as Babcock and others elsewhere can tell you, don't mount it by using using those clips that push into the fins. ;) Bob From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:41:32 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:41:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> I just realized I totally missed the question and ranted away (snowed in.. cabin fever). Just run it on a toggle and flip it on when the motor is up to temperature. The potential for failure is higher with a "sensor" than a toggle switch. Bob From lfritz82 at hotmail.com Sat Feb 6 20:47:29 2010 From: lfritz82 at hotmail.com (Lorne Fritz) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 22:47:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bobby, Years ago I got a foam kit for a TR6. It was expensive and was of very poor quality. I went to the local upolstery shop(most wont' do cars but will cut foam) and had them make some pads from their densest foam. It was under $50 for everything. Moss's upolstery is of pretty good quailty and are easy to install. Lorne > Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 08:06:33 -0800 > From: igofaster at att.net > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats > > I've got the whole dash and windscreen off my '71 TR6 replacing the wooden dash and the crash pad. The seats are out and need to be rebuilt. My problem is cost effective money to rebuild the seats. Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 with pads, and doodads... We spent $5000 on a complete soda blasting and respray of the original paint last year (the car has never been wrecked or damaged,ever)... the car looks like a million bucks... just having a had time justifying $3000 for new seats.... I've even looked on eBay this morning and there's a company building new aluminum rally seats with your choice of color for the $350 range each... Any ideas FoT? > > Bobby Whitehead > 1971 TR6 > 1970 GT6 CVAR DP #39 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as lfritz82 at hotmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ From timmurph at fastbytes.com Sat Feb 6 20:48:45 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:48:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000701caa7a8$744b80d0$5ce28270$@com> I'll have to look at the documentation, but I think it's around 200 or slightly higher. I've got a manual switch on the dash, wired in parallel to the temp switch, that I can flip to run the fan on the starting grid if I want. Once on the track we flip it off if we had used it. We also use it sometimes to help cool down the engine in the paddock after a session. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Mehl Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 1:43 PM To: Triumph Friends of Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mpendy at dishmail.net Sat Feb 6 22:10:35 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:10:35 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <6B1B6AC8FC6A4A12A0AEF962484B4B9D@Pendys> You are correct , OEM standards today are in the 200+ range and were also talking about todays engines being all aluminum....Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph Friends of'" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question >> What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > > Typically, you want it as high as possible, without the engine overheating > first. The fan sucks power and fuel, so don't run it unless necessary. > Most OEM sensors turn on around 200F or even higher. > > But it depends on the situation. If you're sitting in a grid or > something, > you might want to keep the motor cooler for best power on take-off. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Feb 7 06:01:56 2010 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 08:01:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DAB029C72744B36A5D7A76167A2A32A@userb38463fba5> Mike, most of my experience is with street cars. Some of that will carry over however. I'd suggest that you set the switch to the temperature you want to race at or below. You will most likely only need it on the grid or in the pits when you're tuning. Here's why I say this. The fan on a street car moves a lot of air under the hood not only to cool the radiator but also to remove the under hood hot air that can cause vapor lock, especially if you're using headers. The heat from the exhaust rises directly to the carburetor bowls and boils the gas pretty quickly. You need to move that hot air the best that you can when at rest on the grid. If you wait too long to move that air it's very hard to cool the bowls before you start to move. That's why I suggest you set the temperature at or below where you want to run during the race. Actually you may want to remember to turn it on manually on the grid no matter the temperature as you need that air movement under those conditions. Under racing conditions you will most likely not need a fan and I doubt that it would do any good at racing speeds. Also, if you have not already done so make sure to install one of Joe Alexander's Heat Shields. They provide an extra pound of protection against header heat rising. We have a foot of new snow here in Hudson, my guess is that you've heard that from your relatives back here. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Mehl" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 2:43 PM Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question > What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? > Thanks!!!!! > > Mike Mehl From gaf3 at charter.net Sun Feb 7 06:09:50 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 08:09:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> Joe How much is the kit? I've been unable to find any info on your website or Tony's on the cost. Any plans for the next production run? Bobby Try this site, http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Seats/ReupholsteringSeats.htm (Buckeye Triumphs) for excellent how to info on rebuilding the seats. Also TRF has Seat Foams and Upholstery on sale until the 18th. Glenn n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > Glenn, > > The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of > steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. > > Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. > > Third production run just sold out. > > Joe A. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Feb 7 08:21:22 2010 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 07:21:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <65.C1.27681.AD20E6B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <673993c51002061924m3b845c35y1e26c552de700094@mail.gmail.com> <673993c51002061941h7e696de1s74ebb64e30d4b11b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B6EDA72.3000205@gmail.com> Bob Adams wrote: > Just run it on a toggle and flip it on when the motor is up to temperature. > The potential for failure is higher with a "sensor" than a toggle switch. > Umm, maybe for you but I find that my toggle switch sensor often gets distracted and might only activate the toggle switch upon sensing steam emerging from the bonnet. I find that an electrical sensor has fewer distractions and is much more reliable than the one behind the wheel. However a toggle switch in parallel to a sensor & its relay makes for a sensible backup system. I tend to set my fan sensor to activate the relay 5 to 10 degrees higher than the thermostat opening temperature. TR3 radiator caps don't have a very high pressure rating and I prefer my coolant to be in the colling system and not the catch bottle. Teriann From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 7 08:32:32 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 16:32:32 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question In-Reply-To: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <72614.59775.qm@web46104.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001701caa80a$c6212240$526366c0$@com> I have my switch at the bottom of the radiator and it opens on 79 degree centigrade and stops at 74 degree centigrade. So it runs if the engine has no cooling wind and the radiator water heats up. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Mike Mehl Gesendet: Samstag, 6. Februar 2010 20:43 An: Triumph Friends of Betreff: [Fot] TR4 water temp. fan switch question What temp should I have the switch set to for the fan to turn on? Thanks!!!!! Mike Mehl Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From s.janzen at comcast.net Sun Feb 7 08:37:44 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 10:37:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6 chromoly front stub axles Message-ID: I have the front end of the GT6 all apart, and wondering if axle upgrades are warranted, and if any particular supplier's stuff is superior, or do they all come from the same manufacturer? Are the stock stub axles prone to failure? Sent from my iPhone From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 7 08:39:47 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 10:39:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats The UJR TR6 seat conversion kit In-Reply-To: <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4B6E0344.4060403@charter.net> <8CC75B9E4222DA0-4988-222BE@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> <4B6EBB9E.50408@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CC7622E9A5BE18-4988-26804@webmail-d044.sysops.aol.com> Glenn, The next run has been scheduled and will be done in about two weeks. We have been listing them at $65 plus $10 domestic shipping. there is a picture on photobucket.com/ambro danielsonfamily.org has a nice pictorial of the installation. Hardware kit, laser blanked, formed, and powder coated, in custom box with instructions. Sean did a nice job of manufacturing engineering for Jack. Thanks! Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco To: n197tr4 at cs.com Cc: igofaster at att.net; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 7, 2010 7:09 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Joe How much is the kit? I've been unable to find any info on your website or Tony's on the cost. Any plans for the next production run? Bobby Try this site, http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Seats/ReupholsteringSeats.htm (Buckeye Triumphs) for excellent how to info on rebuilding the seats. Also TRF has Seat Foams and Upholstery on sale until the 18th. Glenn n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: Glenn, The UNCLE JACK designed seat conversion kit doesnt seem like a lot of steel and gets excellent reviews for installation. Complete kit costs about $10 to ship PrIority Mail....not Flat Rate. Third production run just sold out. Joe A. From cak at dimebank.com Sun Feb 7 17:12:05 2010 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 07 Feb 2010 16:12:05 -0800 Subject: [Fot] cleaning a Quaife? Message-ID: <4B6F56D5.1000901@dimebank.com> I've got a Quaife in my GT6+; the diff ran dry and the r&p set is ruined; there was clearly some metal floating around. I can replace everything that needs replacing, but it seems worth opening the Quaife to make sure it's squeaky clean inside, rather than re-introducing metal shards to the new parts. Is this ... as obvious as it looks? Or are there hidden springs and pawls and other wondrous things in there waiting to jump into my face and onto the floor, running to hide under the bench, never to be seen again? Thanks, chris From dos_gusanos at msn.com Mon Feb 8 11:10:03 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 11:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> References: <2fb2f.b49aa75.389f6004@aol.com> Message-ID: Good Topic, I've got to do a set of seats for my TR-6.................Henry Morrison, Albuquerque > From: LimeyV8 at aol.com > Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 19:15:00 -0500 > To: igofaster at att.net; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats > > last time I bought that stuff, it was A LOT cheaper to order it from Rimmer > and pay the shipping - the original type seat covers, foam etc are coming > from England anyway > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > > > > > > In a message dated 2/6/2010 1:01:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > igofaster at att.net writes: > > Moss Motors has probably the nicest set on the market but covers, foam, > and misc doodads are over $2000.00 plus having a shop do the work...dang near > $1500 a seat... ouch... VickyBrit has a set for a little over $1000.00 > with pads, and doodads... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dos_gusanos at msn.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From igofaster at att.net Mon Feb 8 17:06:11 2010 From: igofaster at att.net (Bobby Whitehead) Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 16:06:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Seats In-Reply-To: References: <687013.30846.qm@web180714.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <779054.58022.qm@web180710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bob... I decided 15 years ago not to destroy it to make it a race car... I've got a GT6 in DP with CVAR here in Texas... I bit the bullet and went with the sale price seats and kits with the Roadster Factory... FREE SHIPPING and about $1200 for the seat kits, pads, bits and pieces... Thank you TO ALL who offered everything including delivery (FUQUA)... too kind... Bobby Whitehead ________________________________ From: Robert M. Lang To: Bobby Whitehead Sent: Mon, February 8, 2010 8:51:50 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Seats Hi, There's a lot to say on this one. The bottom line is "what do YOU want". If the car's going to be a driver, get some seats in it and drive. A lot of the TR6 crowd is switching to Miata seats via conversin brackets. A lot less $$$ than refurbing the stock seats. If you're going to enter concours, then the answer should be pretty obvious. Although do your research as some of the replacement material out there will NOT be 100% concours correct. If you're going to race it, then get a really good race seat. I'm partial to Kirky but only because I've been using thier seats for 10+ years. Have fun deciding! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From horizonracing at msn.com Tue Feb 9 06:54:41 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 05:54:41 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire engine Message-ID: Hi All, I have NO $$$ interest in this !! Pacific Auto machine, renton Wa. 425 226 0930 1300 Block (freshly machined +0.20) Crank (large journal?) pistons front cover block plates rods new rings sitting on the shelf for 10+ years. $5oo obo. make any offer !! Thanks Tony From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Tue Feb 9 09:47:16 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 10:47:16 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Hello all, The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting it posted so quickly! http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ Scott B. Henry Frye Triumph Technology Consultants 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) -----Original Message----- From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 9 11:27:27 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 11:27:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <4B71A90F.20204@bradakis.com> Looks quite nice! mjb. From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Tue Feb 9 11:40:56 2010 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 10:40:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <330830.43883.qm@web111409.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> EXCELLENT! Ken Suhre --- On Tue, 2/9/10, Barr, Scott wrote: > From: Barr, Scott > Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > To: "Triumph Friends of" > Date: Tuesday, February 9, 2010, 10:47 AM > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming > blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if > interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to > Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kenandtweety at yahoo.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software > specialist. From John.Reed at wilson.com Tue Feb 9 13:07:33 2010 From: John.Reed at wilson.com (John Reed) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 14:07:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: Very nice!! On 2/9/10 10:47 AM, "Scott Barr" wrote: > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as john.reed at wilson.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Regards, John Reed Global Staff Photographer Creative Services Wilson Sporting Goods Co. 8750 W Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago, Illinois 60631, USA Tel. + 1.773.714.6895, fax +1.773.714.4585 John.Reed at wilson.com www.wilson.com www.amersports.com This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this e-mail is strictly forbidden. From roadandtrack at bigpond.com Tue Feb 9 15:01:46 2010 From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 08:01:46 +1000 Subject: [Fot] chasing 4A diff mount plate In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100209220143.LZMK5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Can anyone help me find a rear diff mounting plate for a TR4A. This is the alloy part that bolts onto the diff back plate, and takes the 4 rubber mounts. They are not the same as TR250, TR6 or TR6. thanks, Terry O'Beirne, Australia From triumphs at consolidated.net Tue Feb 9 16:21:39 2010 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 17:21:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: Looks good! kg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barr, Scott" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:47 AM Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2677 - Release Date: 02/09/10 01:35:00 From jhassall at blacksburg.net Tue Feb 9 19:23:52 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 09 Feb 2010 21:23:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <4B7218B8.9030504@blacksburg.net> On 2/9/2010 11:47 AM, Barr, Scott wrote: Scott, it looks terrific. Who did the artwork? Kudos to him/her. jim > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From mpendy at dishmail.net Tue Feb 9 21:06:15 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2010 20:06:15 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> Very nice scott................Very nice.........Mark Pendy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barr, Scott" To: "Triumph Friends of" Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 8:47 AM Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial > Hello all, > > The memorial ad to be placed in Burt Levy's upcoming blockbuster novel > has been completed. You can view a copy of it, if interested, on the > FOT web site (click or paste link below). Thanks to Henry for getting > it posted so quickly! > > http://fot-racing.com/unclejack/ > > Scott B. > > > > > Henry Frye > Triumph Technology Consultants > 860.653.3118 (o) - 860.508.3118 (c) > > -----Original Message----- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Feb 10 04:29:02 2010 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:29:02 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial In-Reply-To: <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FC5@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> <8C31B9D5061442D99E59E5A0CB8E0A52@Pendys> Message-ID: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401701FE4@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> (Thanks but, for the record, I didn't do the artwork. One of Burt's minions put that together. I just collected your photos and sent them to Burt as fodder.) -----Original Message----- From: Mark Pendergrass [mailto:mpendy at dishmail.net] Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:06 PM To: Barr, Scott; Triumph Friends of Subject: Re: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Very nice scott................Very nice.........Mark Pendy From BillDentin at aol.com Wed Feb 10 08:10:47 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 10:10:47 EST Subject: [Fot] Uncle Jack memorial Message-ID: <3de7.ff4f756.38a42677@aol.com> In a message dated 02/10/2010 6:11:06 AM Central Standard Time, sbarr at McCarty-Law.com writes: > (Thanks but, for the record, I didn't do the artwork. One of Burt's > minions put that together. I just collected your photos and sent them > to Burt as fodder.) > Long time racing photographer and scribe, Art Eastman did that artwork. And I know for a fact there is a warm spot for TRIUMPHs in his heart. Bill Dentinger From billsohl at optonline.net Wed Feb 10 10:05:07 2010 From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 12:05:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Just too much email to keep up. Message-ID: <8F6D211A67BE475D87663E387D39019C@SohlPC> FOTers, I just can't keep up anymore with the volume. Hope to return after retirement down the road at the end of 2011. Cheers and best wishes to all during the racing season for 2010 and 2011. I'll be unsubscribing after this email. Bill Sohl From BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com Wed Feb 10 19:58:29 2010 From: BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com (Bill Bartlett) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Message-ID: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Hi Gents, I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake "proportioning"? Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, or should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to work by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, where the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the rear brake line to the slaves. What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the proportioning the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master bores to start with eh? My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different length bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the peddle assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal set, put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different bushing sets for say wet and dry? Thoughts? And thank you for your time Bill PS; this is for a GT6 From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Feb 10 21:18:02 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2010 23:18:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Message-ID: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> Found this looking for other things. Some here may be able to identify the car. Paul http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/651640/Re_Help_ needed_with_info_on_vi From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Feb 11 06:51:25 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:51:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? In-Reply-To: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> References: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> Thanks Paul............ That's cool! Can anyone make contact with this guy? This would be a nice addition to the FOT. There are a couple of other specials floating around out there and they pop up once in awhile, but they get away. Can somebody lock on to this guy? Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Paul MacDonald To: Fot Sent: Wed, Feb 10, 2010 10:18 pm Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Found this looking for other things. Some here may be able to identify the ar. Paul http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/651640/Re_Help_ eeded_with_info_on_vi Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Thu Feb 11 08:25:26 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 10:25:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR7 speeder Message-ID: <10D367B2F0004B1583D3C816FDD47FAC@your4dacd0ea75> http://flashbackracing.com/2010/02/may-2009-%e2%80%93-the-flashback-racing-t r7-land-speed-racer-bumps-record-at-maxton-to-111-715-mph/ Also check out this organization. Sounds like a cool meet to attend.242mph bikes.. http://www.ecta-lsr.com/ Would be interesting to see some FOT cars run this. Sounds a little easier than the salt at Bonneville. Paul From herald948 at aol.com Thu Feb 11 09:03:26 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:03:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? In-Reply-To: <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> References: <8293E635D3764B28970672D03B753A99@your4dacd0ea75> <8CC79386FAE76F1-1D24-2612@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CC794AE14D0253-142C-4C84@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Joe, I'd be willing to do so, as I'm a member of the British Car Forum. What would you like me to do: invite him to contact you? or ???? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: macdonaldp at rogers.com; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2010 8:51 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Gibbons or Gibson special ?? Thanks Paul............ That's cool! Can anyone make contact with this guy? From jason at multivintage.com Thu Feb 11 12:47:18 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 12:47:18 -0700 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> The set up you have should be Ok for vintage. Most of the really well prepped gt6's have the dual master set up with original triumph equipment. I feel the only candidate for the tilton pedals would be like tube frame scca car or something. That's kind of a major modernization and is not in line with what the plenty fast guys like group 44 and mr. kastner did back in the day. Plus with the good racing break pads they make nowdays even a stock set up with a single master should be ok. My car has only one master and has raced on scca national level since newly built in 1970, over 100 races on the log books. Who needs brakes anyway? gt6jason Friendly Ghost Racing On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tlizzard at msn.com Thu Feb 11 16:27:17 2010 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:27:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Brake bias. In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: A single, OEM Triumph, properly sized dual bore master cylinder can be very effective indeed. And, it's simple. There is much elegance in simplicity. Terry Stetler From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 17:12:22 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:12:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: I have had some bad results with uneven brake bias.At one time I had just the proportioning valve going the the rear brakes after the rears were up graded to discs on my Tr 6 The trouble was I could never take enough psi off the rear and that was not good The tilton system is not to costly and considering the infinite adjustment from the cockpit. I would not want to be stuck with a shim adjustment. Now I can set them up as I like and don't have to settle for "there all most what I want" good luck with your decision. rob ps If you go with the tilton set up and need the sizes on the masters etc I will be happy to look them over and pass on the data I have 2 or 3 new masters that I could not use either to small or large can't remember ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Bartlett" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 9:58 PM Subject: [Fot] (no subject) > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 17:57:11 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:57:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that good a driver, so close is good enough! With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar > appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two > masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right > master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of > the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 11 18:26:42 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:26:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> Message-ID: I used two clutch masters since they were the same size as the brake master on my Mk1 Spit. The only difference was the size of the reservoir which I figured was sufficient for half the braking system and so far I have been proven correct. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 5:57 PM To: Bill Bartlett Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that good a driver, so close is good enough! With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett wrote: > Hi Gents, > I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake > "proportioning"? > Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front and > rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from the > cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear brakes, > or > should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar > appears to > work > by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two > masters, > where > the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru the > rear brake line to the slaves. > What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the > proportioning > the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right > master > bores > to start with eh? > My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different > length > bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of > the > peddle > assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable pedal > set, > put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different > bushing > sets for say wet and dry? > Thoughts? > And thank you for your time > Bill > PS; this is for a GT6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From timmurph at fastbytes.com Thu Feb 11 20:23:53 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:23:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim From s.janzen at comcast.net Thu Feb 11 20:32:31 2010 From: s.janzen at comcast.net (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 22:32:31 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Selling my 1961 TR4 - definite financial interest! Message-ID: <6849739F-2D4D-460F-8021-38A4987DCFFF@comcast.net> Original, never restored, runs great, patina galore, $9700 here, more elsewhere. Incoming project, two car garage, GT6 racer stays, I'll regret it but this one has to go. Philadelphia area. Sorry to bomb the list, but I'd like to see it go to someone that will appreciate it for what it is. http://1961triumphtr4forsale.blogspot.com/2010/02/1961-triumph-tr4-for-sale.html From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 20:51:49 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:51:49 -1000 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) Brake bias. In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> <1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> Message-ID: And a lot of lousy braking. Brakes make you go fast, if you don't get them right then most of the other stuff won't matter. To set your brakes up properly you need adjustable bias. A compensating valve only decreases the braking force applied to the rear, which might be okay if that's your problem. I like cabin adjustable bias but swapping out spacers or turning a screw works fine too. Just spend some time getting the car not to swap ends under very hard braking and you're good. You can drive around having your brakes not quite right, but why would you. Easy to do, and very cheap compared to everything else. I like having both brake cylinders the same, but that's just because it's minimal parts to carry. On Feb 11, 2010, at 1:27 PM, Terry Stetler wrote: > A single, OEM Triumph, properly sized dual bore master cylinder can be very > effective indeed. And, it's simple. > > There is much elegance in simplicity. > > > > Terry Stetler > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 20:55:22 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 17:55:22 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <406BD5BC-11AD-465E-8F88-53BFCB563984@bnj.com> I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 21:01:08 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 20:01:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <802456.73880.qm@web81208.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his Erson cam. I used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold with stock 1.75" SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This engine pulls like a mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in a normally aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the replacement engine for free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls the supercharged engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the supercharger and it's manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. -Ed- --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: From: Tim Murphy Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Thu Feb 11 21:08:20 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 20:08:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! Message-ID: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Gotta get one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo From billb at bnj.com Thu Feb 11 22:55:46 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:55:46 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Fri Feb 12 00:31:56 2010 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 02:31:56 EST Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <2035f.25a852e5.38a65dec@aol.com> Tim, I have actually seen TR 3 & 4 engines go as high as 92 mm jugs & pistons. Just make sure you don't deck the block too much. Same goes for milling the head. If you want some professional help Daryl Uprichard of Racetorations has done this quite often. Ken Gilanders probably has too so it might help to visit with them on what size fits what you are going to use the car for. I have one of Daryl's engines waiting on me to finish the body work. I elected to use the 89 mm because the 92 mm makes for some pretty narrow spaces between the jugs. Daryl ran the 92's in his race cars. As you can imagine they will significantly increase the kick in the pants when you hit the gas pedal. Especially with one of Larry's cams. Just make sure you have the right fuel pump to keep up with the demand. Of course all the other things need to be balanced as well. Needles in the carbs, intake and exhaust valve size and some decent porting and polishing on both sides make a difference. My recommendation is to gather as much info going in and then have the engine dyno tuned. You will be much more pleased that just what us mere mortals can do in the shop. Cheers, Gary In a message dated 2/11/2010 11:56:05 P.M. Central Standard Time, billb at bnj.com writes: I don't think so. I've only used them in racing applications though. I'd probably leave the compression ratio at 9.5 so you can get by with pump gas. On Feb 11, 2010, at 5:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gsfuqua1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 12 05:28:11 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:28:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Chris Crisenberry Message-ID: <006501caabde$d77f8b30$867ea190$@net> Please contact me off list. I hope I didn't mangle your name too badly. Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Feb 12 05:30:33 2010 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:30:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! In-Reply-To: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Best toy ever!!!! Terry Stetler ----- Original Message ----- From: EDWARD BARNARD To: FOT ; Joshua Barnard Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 11:08 PM Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! Gotta get one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tlizzard at msn.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Feb 12 08:28:24 2010 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 07:28:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! References: <541159.75081.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2E2189E79D3A47D5AEDD7AB4F1793AF4@Charly> Funny, I have an Austin 1800 that sounds exactly like that if I tune the radio to the AM band. I think the generator and the spark plug leads must be in 'tune' with each other. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 BTW, congratulations to Mark York in taking 1st place points in SOVREN division 1 with his 57 TR3, Good work Mark! ----- Original Message ----- From: "EDWARD BARNARD" To: "FOT" ; "Joshua Barnard" Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:08 PM Subject: [Fot] Instant racecar! > Gotta get one! > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9XAC-BvUyo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 09:34:44 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:34:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C7401702048@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <614027.46846.qm@web81203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Scott: The power it makes is not the RPM type power we get out of a Honda where you have to buzz the motor up to feel something. This is a torquey power you feel in the seat of your pants. Although it consistently pulls in the 8.5 second 0-60 times the impressive part is that you can pull away from a light in third without it shuddering (with a stock TR3 gearbox and rear end). When driving, if you want to pass you simply push the go peddle, and you can feel the grunt pull you around the other cars in a flash. It doesn't sound much different than a stock 83, 86, or 87mm car, it just honking pulls you around with authority. If building one for myself I wouldn't hesitate spending the extra few bucks. -Ed- --- On Fri, 2/12/10, Barr, Scott wrote: From: Barr, Scott Subject: RE: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: "EDWARD BARNARD" Date: Friday, February 12, 2010, 7:48 AM Hi Ed You said << This engine pulls like a mule. >> I'm just curious what that means in comparison to modern cars since I've been thinking about a possible TR4 street car project. What kind of acceleration (0-60) would this sort of set-up provide? Scott B. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD BARNARD Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 10:01 PM To: Tim Murphy Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his Erson cam. I used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold with stock 1.75" SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This engine pulls like a mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in a normally aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the replacement engine for free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls the supercharged engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the supercharger and it's manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. -Ed- --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: From: Tim Murphy Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. Thanks, Tim Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as scott.barr at mccarty-law.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Fri Feb 12 09:55:57 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 08:55:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <02.F1.04431.E18757B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <802753.4238.qm@web81202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Randall: Although I left everything down below stock, I'm sure the car could really come to life with some head work. We're talking stock rods and crank with a stock high port head with stock manifolds and carbs, atop a stock block. The Babe Erson cam (Larry wasn't doing his cams yet), with Ken's 89mm kit and Joe's lightened flywheel. The block needed no relieving at all. The car is here in Texas so cooling was a fear, but, not a problem after all. I did my normal mods...stock TR3 cooling fan with a modern stlye (non-sleeve) 160 degree thermostat and the bypass pipe in the thermostat housing blocked off to 1/4". The car has never showed signs of getting above the half way point on the gauge even in the summer. This car can show in concourse because none of the mods take away from the look of a stock "3" -Ed- --- On Fri, 2/12/10, Randall wrote: From: Randall Subject: RE: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 To: "'EDWARD BARNARD'" Date: Friday, February 12, 2010, 9:47 AM Thanks for the info, Ed. I'm planning something similar myself, except with a little headwork; 4-2-1 exhaust & Larry Young's street cam; so it's good to hear it works out. Ken seemed a little worried about cooling with the 89s on the street. Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD BARNARD > Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:01 PM > To: Tim Murphy > Cc: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 > > Tim: I built a TR3A for a customer using Ken's 89mm's and his > Erson cam. I > used Joe A's lightened flywheel and stock exhaust manifold > with stock 1.75" > SU's on the short intake.I did nothing to the head.This > engine pulls like a > mule. I built it because the customer saw a TR4A I did with a Judson > supercharger and kept insisting he wanted the same for his "3". I kept > refusing to do it, and promised him more power and torque in > a normally > aspirated engine for half the price or I'd build the > replacement engine for > free. I haven't had to do that. This engine easily out pulls > the supercharged > engine, without any of the probelms we've had with the > supercharger and it's > manifold. The 89's are well worth the extra $500 over a set of 87's. > -Ed- > > --- On Thu, 2/11/10, Tim Murphy wrote: > > > From: Tim Murphy > Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 > To: fot at autox.team.net > Cc: rpm724 at att.net, ryan.murphy at fdlco.wi.gov > Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 9:23 PM > > > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 > TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged > pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or > 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that > would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already > put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust > manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams > for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the > CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to > 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Fri Feb 12 16:07:11 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Terry and Cindy) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:07:11 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some jag top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 12 16:17:41 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 18:17:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> Wish I could drive my car well enough to recognize a need to make a bias change on the next lap. My in car camera is new last season and my braking is way to early, not even close to lock up on entering. and I'm to easy getting back to the gas on exit. The camera is great because I can see so much room for improvement. rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen" To: "Bill Bartlett" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 7:57 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) > My GT6 came to me with a single cylinder master, which I did not feel > comfortable with. I bought a tilton bias bar and two Girling masters > - originally got Tilton masters, but the integral reservoirs were a > little too tall and interfered with the bonnet. Fab'd a mounting > assembly out of heavy gauge sheet metal, welded up, and had the Tilton > bias tube grafted/welded on the top of the stock brake pedal. > I fiddled with the bias adjustment a bit, and have it so the fronts > lock up a little before the rears. I suppose if you were racing at > the national level, wanted to adjust for changing fuel loads, wet/dry, > etc, a cockpit adjustable bias might be good. However - I'm not that > good a driver, so close is good enough! > With dual masters, one thing you might want to think about is whether > the front should be a larger bore- given that the pistons/cylinders in > the calipers displace much more fluid than the rear wheel cylinders. > > > On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 21:58:29 -0500, Bill Bartlett > wrote: >> Hi Gents, >> I am curious on the difference between brake "Biasing" and brake >> "proportioning"? >> Given that one has a set up with twin masters, one each for the front > and >> rear brake systems, is it better to use a bias adjustment cable from > the >> cockpit to adjust the amount of force given to the front and rear > brakes, >> or >> should one use a proportioning adjustment valve. The bias bar >> appears to >> work >> by adjusting the amount of force the pedal excerpts on the two >> masters, >> where >> the proportioning reduces the amount of hydraulic force excerpted thru > the >> rear brake line to the slaves. >> What is the deal? Does the Biasing do the heavy lifting and the >> proportioning >> the micro adjustment? I suppose one needs to start with the right >> master >> bores >> to start with eh? >> My car has a bias bar but it is only adjustable by inserting different >> length >> bushings between the clevis and the spherical bearing at the top of >> the >> peddle >> assembly. I am debating whether to upgrade to the Tilton adjustable > pedal >> set, >> put a proportioning valve in or just leave it alone and have different >> bushing >> sets for say wet and dry? >> Thoughts? >> And thank you for your time >> Bill >> PS; this is for a GT6 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as s.janzen at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 17:01:08 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 14:01:08 -1000 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 12 17:26:39 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:26:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> Message-ID: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how we learned to be better drivers? rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. Usually these kind of turns are fiddly things, and there's not a great deal of time to be made up by doing them better, but proper brake bias adjustment is important for the big high speed turns so you can get the braking done, get back on the gas and push the nose into the turn. You won't feel the bias problem there, but if your car has unbalanced braking you won't be able to get through the turn anywhere near as fast. Ultimately mid corner speed is where all the lap time improvements come from, and the only way to get there is balanced braking and getting the car settled. = From jhassall at blacksburg.net Fri Feb 12 18:51:13 2010 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:51:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> References: <000001caab92$ce1c0c40$6a5424c0$@com> Message-ID: <4B760591.3030304@blacksburg.net> On 2/11/2010 10:23 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: Tim, I installed a set in my autox / street TR4. The pistons were much lighter (sorry, no access to the engine build log at the moment, so can't quantify "much") and came w/Deves rings. What's not to like? I ported and cc'd the head and shaved it to 10.0:1, which works fine with what passes for premium pump gas. The cam is an Isky 777. With all those bits, and 40 DCOEs that are waaaay too rich at the moment, I can light the tires in second gear. Hehehe I forgot to mention that I'm also running BFE's oversize and gas-flowed valves (Ken's valves were almost too pretty to install). This engine pumps some *serious* air! While you're working on your engine, why not have the crank nitrided (I'm assuming you're using a stock crank). Shaftech did mine, and it now rings like a bell. jim > I'm planning on rebuilding the engine in Ryan's street 1964 TR4. We're > thinking of putting a set of Ken Gilanders liners and forged pistons in. Is > there any downside to using the 89 mm liners versus the 86 or 87 mm liners? > If the 89 mm liners are used is there anything else that would have to be > changed? The car has the Stromberg carbs and he has already put a 4 into 1 > header on it some time ago. Had to, the cast iron exhaust manifold cracked > in half. We've already gotten one of Larry Young's 270 cams for it and plan > to mill the head slightly. The 89 mm liners would bump the CR up to 9.5 > with the stock head and I was thinking of milling it to go to 10 to 1. I'd > appreciate any thoughts/advice from the group on this. > > > > Thanks, > > Tim > > -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From horizonracing at msn.com Fri Feb 12 22:04:27 2010 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:04:27 -0800 Subject: [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: Rob, I started young; Cooper 500 at 15, Mini Cooper at 18, Formula Ford at 21 in NZ, Aust & Europe. Now raced 64 Different Race cars at 56 different tracks. mostly vintage type cars as that is what I enjoy the most! Tires are skinny and the driver is fat. There is no one way to get better, But it starts with a "Great" Driving school. Not some noddy playschool toys but Real race cars with real race drivers as tutors. Go watch a local Sprint/midget car race! Pavement or dirt. Take notes of the starts & restarts. Find some buddy's and get your own indoor go karting league going. 3 x 1 hour races a night per month or more! "Seat time". Inter car club races usually gets the Blood flowing ;) Get somebody "really Good" to test your car. Not to break it, but to set it up and set a bench mark for you. This is important ! I do this a lot for folks in Vintage and it's usually the real simple things that can turn a car around from a pig to a nice enjoyable ride. I hope I haven't come across too conceited, and if I have...... blame Bill Babcock ;) Cheers Tony > From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > To: billb at bnj.com; fot at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:26:39 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) > > Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how > we learned to be better drivers? rob From timmurph at fastbytes.com Fri Feb 12 22:24:09 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 23:24:09 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 Message-ID: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Thanks for all of the input. I'm still in the planning stages on this so will have to consider all the info. I'm thinking, seeing as how we don't have unlimited funds to do everything, that we might get more bang for the buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Reducing that stock inertia will have huge dividends in response and get more torque to the rear wheels instead of trying to get that thing rotating. We are planning to at least clean all of the casting slag out of the head ports. The car is in storage right now in Mequon in my daughters garage (about 50 miles south of me) and I'm not even sure which head and intake manifold it has on it, other than I'm sure it's stock. Ryan is the second owner and bought the car from my late friend Art Last before he passed away. That was about 10 years ago. And I know Art didn't do any serious engine work. Are there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? I think that's the one with the flat on the manifold side by #1. It's what we have on the race car and I think we have another spare. We've also got a spare "long runner" intake manifold as used on the race car. We really appreciate the info on compression ratio and octane. Really don't want the hassle of adding octane booster and there aren't any stations in our immediate area that sell race gas. I don't even think it's illegal to put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. If I remember correctly, that's how the law was originally stated, that it was illegal to put leaded gas in a car with a catalyst. Thanks again. Will continue to look for any further info from the Amici and will post when I come up with a plan and see what the folks think. Tim From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 22:49:37 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:49:37 -1000 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> References: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Message-ID: <02B37C05-0A89-4757-BC24-F1ADBA7F4372@bnj.com> There's lots of unleaded race gas, not illegal to add it, and it gives a lot bigger octane boost than the math says it would. Someone told me why once, but I forget. That said, I'd go for displacement and low compression--cheapest way to power. Higher compression stresses everything. Keep it simple, a mild cam so all your gas doesn't go out the exhaust, big pistons, and blueprint everything and you'll have a great motor. Definitely get the crank nitrided. I'll probably use Mikuni Solex carbs because I have a set. All you really need to do for the ports is match everything up and clean off the really rough spots. Don't get carried away, unless you have a flow bench and know how to use it to gain flow, you WON'T improve anything. I have a TR3 "kit" in my shop that I need to build. I'll be doing it exactly that way. Nice chesty motor, good electrics, quaife rear end (I've already got one), and a blueprinted stock gearbox with overdrive (have that too). Do all the suspension mods to make it handle, good brakes, and bob's yer uncle. On Feb 12, 2010, at 7:24 PM, Tim Murphy wrote: > Thanks for all of the input. I'm still in the planning stages on this so > will have to consider all the info. I'm thinking, seeing as how we don't > have unlimited funds to do everything, that we might get more bang for the > buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Reducing > that stock inertia will have huge dividends in response and get more torque > to the rear wheels instead of trying to get that thing rotating. We are > planning to at least clean all of the casting slag out of the head ports. > The car is in storage right now in Mequon in my daughters garage (about 50 > miles south of me) and I'm not even sure which head and intake manifold it > has on it, other than I'm sure it's stock. Ryan is the second owner and > bought the car from my late friend Art Last before he passed away. That was > about 10 years ago. And I know Art didn't do any serious engine work. Are > there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? I think > that's the one with the flat on the manifold side by #1. It's what we have > on the race car and I think we have another spare. We've also got a spare > "long runner" intake manifold as used on the race car. > > > > We really appreciate the info on compression ratio and octane. Really don't > want the hassle of adding octane booster and there aren't any stations in > our immediate area that sell race gas. I don't even think it's illegal to > put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. If I remember > correctly, that's how the law was originally stated, that it was illegal to > put leaded gas in a car with a catalyst. > > > > Thanks again. Will continue to look for any further info from the Amici and > will post when I come up with a plan and see what the folks think. > > > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Fri Feb 12 23:59:24 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:59:24 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <7A23FE1E-5489-402F-91EA-98EF14D59250@bnj.com> Hmm--I blabbed too much--it bounced. Two pieces: Tony's a hell of a good driver, but I'm not taking responsibility for his attitude. I don't consider myself a good racer. I think I used to be an okay motorcycle racer, but my reflexes are nothing like they used to be. I have to drive cars within the boundaries of my current capabilities and I think I do that OK. I can tell you what I did. I raced motorcycles from age 17 (1965) until I was about 30. 1/2 mile, TT, and mile when I was a kid, added motocross and a little roadracing when I got older. I started driving cars about 25 years ago with a Rabbit in SCCA and ICSSC races. The car was the previous year's Northwest champ, and it had just been bought by my boss at the software company I worked for--who promptly broke it. He wanted to race but had the mechanical sympathy of a goat. I wrenched in return for using the car out of class. Did that for a few years and got the bug. I went from that to vintage. Did a Bondurant school, and then did a bunch of ICSSC and SCCA schools just for the teaching and track time--already had the license. Raced my TR3 until someone decided to take a serious look at it (not much was legal) and bought Peyote in 1999. I felt I wasn't getting enough track time to progress, so I bought a Radical DSR car and raced it in SCCA and ICSSC. Pretty much raced every weekend of the race season for a few years, switching back and forth between Peyote and the Radical. more... From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 00:00:20 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:00:20 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> the rest... Driving a really fast DSR car competitively made me a lot better driver than a whole bunch of seat time in a vintage car or a Rabbit. You can't make silly mistakes in a wings and slicks car that does lap times in the range of Formula Atlantics. You have to hustle the car, you have to get the brake points right, you have to get used to going through a turn at a couple of Gs and clipping the apex within an inch every lap. Screw up and it's off the track, end of story. Won the Northwest Regional Championship in 2001. Sold the Radical when the Stohrs came out and made it obsolete. Still race Peyote. I think if you want to be a good driver you need to learn to hustle a car. To push it a little harder in the corners and get your exit speed up. Seat time is important, but if you aren't pushing, and you're not analyzing what you're doing then it doesn't do much but wear out parts. I see people get stalled at a certain point in their driving and never get past it. That's fine if you're comfortable with that, but if you like to push yourself then there's always another second to pick up. The difference between first and tenth in a vintage race is usually about 5-6 seconds. Half a second per corner. You should be able to feel the front end in a corner, feel what happens when you ease off the steering pressure to reduce understeer. Feel the back end traction and how much you can push with the throttle to get the car to rotate. You need to play with that stuff in practice and on test and tune days to really understand the dynamics of your car. And you need to learn to drive around problems. I find myself not paying enough attention to break points, turn in, and keeping the car balance. When you do that you need to give yourself a good slap and get back on the program. With enough experience you should be able to work out how deep you can go in a corner without running off the track or spinning. Most times you won't really be at the edge, but you can get fairly close with a vintage car, because the edge isn't that far out there--skinny tires and horse cart suspension ensures that. I also find it's important to get to tracks you're not experienced with, and push yourself at learning them. Makes you better everywhere. Confidence in your equipment helps a lot too. Peyote is a good car that's been made steadily more reliable and sound. I expect it to be really good this year since Tony is doing the prep work. I still give the brakes a quick pump coming into a fast turn. I could be a tiny bit quicker if I didn't do that. If silly things are breaking, or you don't have confidence in your brakes, or you're afraid an axle might break or your steering might fail, then you just can't go fast. The fast way through a big corner is to hold the throttle to the floor until the last microsecond, get on the brakes and stay on them at the limits of traction, ease off the brakes as you turn in, keeping the car balanced, be off the brakes completely before the apex and be rolling on the throttle to keep the car rotating, be at full throttle at the apex. Nick the edge of the track with your outside rear wheel because that's the only place that physics will allow the car to be. Lather, rinse, repeat. If you don't do that, you are not anywhere near the edge, because the edge is a ways past that. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 00:13:38 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:13:38 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> References: <20100212230755.UGQT5111.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@ratlaptop> Message-ID: <699816E2-2D29-4CA0-BAD8-DC7D552E06B2@bnj.com> You can't just gain caster with a balljoint change--it will place a bind on the trunnion. Peyote has 3 degrees of caster using TR6 parts--nice to have. Clearly what you got is a TR3/4 trunnion. I got mine from Moss and they were fine. On Feb 12, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Terry and Cindy wrote: > I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had > zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, > its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. > Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? > > Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the > vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie > rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match > with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) > TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). > > Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some jag > top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. > > > Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com Sat Feb 13 09:25:30 2010 From: BillBartlett at wingnutracing.com (Bill Bartlett) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 11:25:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] improved Driving In-Reply-To: <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com> <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net> <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON> <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com> <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D31148C@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net> HI Rob, Well said Bill Babcock, I enjoy vintage racing my MGA Coupe and Lotus 7, but it was not until I started racing a Lotus 51 Formula Ford (Vintage of course) that I got a comparative of just where I was in the pack. I quickly realized how important correct braking really was. It is far easier exiting a corner, then entering it, and after all the entering is really what sets up the exiting. I had a great race with Jesse Prather at VIR once, Jesse in a B and I in the Lotus 7. One would expect the 7 to lead and true to the cars capabilities I would create a nice lead coming out of the corners but Jesse always closed the gap at the end of the straights - a great fight, with the better car winning. But what about the driving? When I started racing the 51 it was immediately apparent that I was leaving way too much at the end of the straights. My race with Jesse came to mind (perhaps I should say lesson) and I immediately started decreasing the break point until I pissed my pants at the end every straight. The 51 is a real race car and as such I am learning about set up and the delicate balance of running a car UP on the tires, while keeping my eyes well down the track. What does this have to do with Triumphs? Well I am banging away on a GT6 and hope to be running with the B's again perhaps mid season. :) Bill -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:27 PM To: Bill Babcock; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) Good advice as usual Bill . Hay listers can we move the conversation to how we learned to be better drivers? rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Babcock" To: "Rob" <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] (no subject) I don't make bias changes very often because I never push the car that hard and deep. On my old Radical you were playing with bias every few laps as the tires went away--if you didn't you'd be entering turns backwards. It's not that hard to know you need a change. Whatever turn requires the most braking is the one you want to adjust for. As you brake for the turn you should feel the back end get light and "skippy" without any feeling that it's going to step out. If you get all your braking done in a straight line it's not so critical, if you're still braking some when you're turning in then you need to get it right to go fast. If you don't feel the back end get light then you don't have enough front bias. If the back end starts to step out and you have to modulate the brakes to stop it, then you have too much on the front. That's about it. Usually these kind of turns are fiddly things, and there's not a great deal of time to be made up by doing them better, but proper brake bias adjustment is important for the big high speed turns so you can get the braking done, get back on the gas and push the nose into the turn. You won't feel the bias problem there, but if your car has unbalanced braking you won't be able to get through the turn anywhere near as fast. Ultimately mid corner speed is where all the lap time improvements come from, and the only way to get there is balanced braking and getting the car settled. = Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as billbartlett at wingnutracing.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 13 10:43:20 2010 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:43:20 -0800 Subject: [Fot] 89 mm liners in a street TR4 In-Reply-To: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> References: <001c01caac6c$c6bd2350$543769f0$@com> Message-ID: > we might get more bang for the > buck with a lightened flywheel than a lot of head or porting work. Yes! I've currently got a Fidanza alloy wheel behind a nearly stock TR3 motor, and I love it. > Are there big advantages to be had from using the "high port" head? Yes, but that's almost certainly what you have. "Low port" heads were only found on TR2 and early TR3. See http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/FAQ_heads.htm for more info. > I don't even think it's illegal to > put race gas in a car without a catalytic converter. I believe it is illegal to drive it on the street though, unless you can find race gas that has had the road taxes paid on it. Randall From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sat Feb 13 12:15:11 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:15:11 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Good Racing In-Reply-To: <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> References: <349474AF2BC22543A819F69FBBD38FE98B0D311172@VMBX107.ihostexchange.net><1ed07e84e50adbfd06b63063c0e39833@network23online.com>, <5C22788B-02F6-4D54-93B1-E7362ED76C8C@comcast.net>, <7D73A3A454A74C3BB6E0DCE450703DFE@INSPIRON>, <4E524C69-393D-4CE9-A881-1B44BA9365AE@bnj.com>, <08AF00D9B2F041F7AE44E1B499F71D95@INSPIRON> <8D3F77B5-80EC-4C1E-BC73-FF81671D3861@bnj.com> Message-ID: <000901caace0$df8fde80$9eaf9b80$@com> I have a good indicator if I'm fast or not: If I feel comfortable then I'm slow. So I have to jump over that comfort limit and get the car on the tippy toes....then it is sailing through corners really fast. Cheers Chris (Bill - I like your explanations) From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 17:09:39 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100213.190448.9971.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> References: <20100213.190448.9971.0@webmail06.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <468FEF85-F1CB-4867-BC75-24EBCEC08E39@bnj.com> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least of the problems. On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Bill Babcock > To: Terry and Cindy > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries > Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:13:38 -1000 > > You can't just gain caster with a balljoint change--it will place a bind on > the trunnion. Peyote has 3 degrees of caster using TR6 parts--nice to have. > > Clearly what you got is a TR3/4 trunnion. I got mine from Moss and they were > fine. > > > On Feb 12, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Terry and Cindy wrote: > >> I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had >> zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also, >> its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link. >> Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion?? >> >> Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the >> vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie >> rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match >> with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387) >> TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212). >> >> Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some > jag >> top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster. >> >> >> Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Diet Help > Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. > http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=pX-dIceZhFclW1sFjuEyTQAAJz43 aog8pNplkPMflQ6BI_PmAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 17:39:04 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:39:04 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> References: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > > ---------- Original Message ---------- > From: Bill Babcock > To: "Joe Boruch" > Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries > Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 > > I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least of the problems. > > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > >> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 13 20:12:48 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:12:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Message-ID: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something here? I would use them on a TR3... Best, M Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 13 20:29:54 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:29:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? Message-ID: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M From britbits at netzero.net Sat Feb 13 21:08:44 2010 From: britbits at netzero.net (britbits at netzero.net) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 04:08:44 GMT Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Message-ID: <20100213.220844.14107.0@webmail17.dca.untd.com> Mark, Run the ARP part number past the folks at summit racing (www.summitracing.com). They can get all the ARP part numbers, even though they don't list them in their catalog. Typically 25% to 50% cheaper than the usual LBC suppliers. The last time I picked up head stud sets for a 1500 Spitfire they were $55. NFI. Let us know what they say. Cheers, Jim Dallas Too many toys, not enough time ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Mark Eginton To: "fot at autox.team.net" Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:12:48 -0500 Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something here? I would use them on a TR3... Best, M Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0 QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as britbits at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Small Business Tools Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/c?cp=GDFdGPkQOVXbnvY48VkkWwAAJ1GU 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARMQAAAAA= From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Feb 13 22:22:52 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 23:22:52 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> I've been getting them from some Jap car tuner site for about that. http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/arp-206-4207 - Tony Drews At 09:12 PM 2/13/2010, Mark Eginton wrote: >Found some ARP Head studs on Ebay for $100 - am I missing something >here? I would use them on a TR3... > >Best, > >M > >Click here > > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-206-4207-Triumph-TR4-12pt-Head-Stud-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efcc442d7QQitemZ270528692951QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 13 23:00:41 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:00:41 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads done with hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My vincent still has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. On Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." > > Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. > > Best, > > M > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From cwnfot at gmail.com Sun Feb 14 06:38:47 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:38:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> Check with Ted Schumacher on ARP, if he doesn't join in here on his own! I try to give Ted a shot at all parts I buy. Gotta support our own! (Hi Ted!) Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Sun Feb 14 06:48:07 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:48:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> References: <20100213.191219.9971.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com> <353CE6EA-4F8C-4357-8D0D-759F8DAE2F2B@bnj.com> Message-ID: <4B77FF17.4060309@cfl.rr.com> Joe, I am in the middle of installing TR4A/TR6 front suspension on my TR3. Here is what I am using: Upper fulcrum pins are the same. Uncle Jack shortened TR4A/TR6 upper control arms. Vertical link is TR4A/TR6. TR6 ball joint. Trunnion is TR4A/TR6. Lower control arms are TR4A/TR6. I also discovered that the nylatron kit (supplied by BFE) that fits the upper inner TR4A/TR6 control arms also fits the lower TR4A/TR6 inner control arms and the stainless steel sleeve fits the lower TR3 fulcrum pins. The upper and lower fulcrum pins measure the same diameter and same length on the TR3. Bob Davis Bill Babcock wrote: > I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't > recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can > put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I > don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an > inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written > down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > > >> Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit >> > on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: Bill Babcock >> To: "Joe Boruch" >> Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries >> Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 >> >> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed >> > that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least > of the problems. > >> On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: >> >> >>> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at >>> > it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That > would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 14 06:56:42 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:56:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CC7B94ABC92517-6CB4-1301A@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com> the worst that i have seen is mild valve recession. joe a -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: Mark Eginton Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 12:00 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads done ith hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My vincent till has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. n Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve o unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage otorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on his engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like o use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage ither. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 07:52:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 08:52:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" Message-ID: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews From 58tr3a at videotron.ca Sun Feb 14 07:53:07 2010 From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:53:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> <71AB4842-7F6B-4EFB-B38C-C60FE95650D2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <86FF551C12994793BFC4622AC67D56F9@elliott7455dae> I rebuilt the engine for my 1958 TR3A in 1988 during my restoration from 1987 to 1990. It had 80,300 miles on it from new. I decided I'd run an experiment. I would drive it on un-leaded fuel till I needed to put in valve seat inserts. I use my TR for normal touring, sometimes for long trips and at high speed on major roads. I drove 40,000 miles on my rebuilt head with un-leaded high-octane pump fuel and no additives. Some of the valves were still the original ones. Starting about 35,000 miles after the re-build, I noticed that I needed to re-gap my exhaust valves more frequently. At 40,000 miles, the gaps for the exhaust valves had dropped from 0.012" down to 0.002" in only 2,000 miles. Then I had to re-gap them every 1,000 miles. So, in 2000, with 43,000 miles on the head since 1990, I decided to have valve seat inserts installed. Some of the valves were razor sharp around the edges. The seats had recessed upwards (valve seat recession) about 1/32" into the cast iron head. It was time. I bought 8 new valves and 8 new valve guides. I had an engine re-build shop do the work. I had him put the inserts in the head for the 4 exhaust valves. Since 2000 when I had this done, I've driven 59 ,000 touring miles and even though I check the valve gaps every 5,000 miles, I've only had to adjust two or three gaps a few times. Each time, it's been a different valve. And this is only a few thou when I have to do it. So it was a really a good decision to have them done. Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Yeah, I never have had a problem either. I've had more than a few heads > done > with hardened seats, but that's because I was doing work on them. My > vincent > still has the original seats, and so do my BSA's --no sign of problems. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 5:29 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > >> As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a >> valve > to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage > motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be > safe on > this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I > like > to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage > either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." >> >> Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. >> >> Best, >> >> M >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 58tr3a at videotron.ca > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 14 08:02:06 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 16:02:06 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001001caad86$adca7530$095f5f90$@com> I am carrying a spare with me since year 2005. Since then nothing did break anymore. Maybe it's a good spell on it. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Tony Drews Gesendet: Sonntag, 14. Februar 2010 15:52 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 14 08:54:32 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 07:54:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question Message-ID: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. I guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it really worth the cost and effort to convert? "Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" From billsohl at optonline.net Sun Feb 14 09:13:59 2010 From: billsohl at optonline.net (Bill Sohl) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:13:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? Message-ID: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Sorry to bomb the list, but I must not have the latest process correct to unsubscribe. I sent an email with unsubscribe as the subject, but that was several days ago and I am still getting emails. Thanks for any help. From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 14 09:29:12 2010 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:29:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <002501caad92$d88e37f0$89aaa7d0$@net> This pops up every now and then. My dad wrote an article that is now on the VTR website regarding valve seat recession. It used to be kept on the Team.Net site. See: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/valve-seats.shtml Doug -- Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Eginton Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 10:30 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. Best, M Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as dmitchel at sbcglobal.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 09:31:36 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 06:31:36 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question In-Reply-To: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You certainly can use just a fluid bias--lots of race cars use them. They seem to work better on more modern cars. It's really a matter of what you get used to. Fluid bias adjusters restrict the fluid to the rear brakes, so you generally use a lot more pedal pressure to stop. I used one in the Rabbit I raced, and it was finicky compared to a bias bar, but it worked. I think I fiddled with it a lot more than I do with a bias bar, but that might just be me. On Feb 14, 2010, at 5:54 AM, Mark Vanlake wrote: > Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times > from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current > question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster > and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake > cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit > pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, > you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level > where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > > I > guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel > master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid > bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it > really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > > "Experience is that marvelous > thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sun Feb 14 09:31:48 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 11:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? In-Reply-To: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> References: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Message-ID: <4B782574.7070408@twcny.rr.com> Every so often someone writes complaining about the emails. There is another option that works great. Every month you get a notification from "autox.team.net mailing list memberships reminder". At the bottom is a link to your "options". Years ago I unchecked the box that sends emails. Now I am still a member and can browse the archives and catch up on the latest - at my leisure but my email is not stuffed daily. Make yourself a desktop shortcut to http://autox.team.net/pipermail/fot/ It takes you directly to the archives and in an hour you can see what happened last month... Consider the option to keep in touch without all the emails. Works great for me... M From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Sun Feb 14 10:14:51 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (rkramer3 at austin.rr.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 17:14:51 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> I have been filling the cavity inside the TRF provided rear mount with silicone, a little at a time to completely fill the cavity, emulating the gel shock absorbtion found in running shoes. This is done with the hope that the silocone will absorb some harmonics at the same time as adding some extra adhersion to the rubber and metal parts. It has worked for a couple of years. I use the little angle pieces on the sides to keep it from squeezing out. Bob Kramer ---- Tony Drews wrote: > What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from > breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the > big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem > to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off > of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tony Drews > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rkramer3 at austin.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 10:18:36 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 07:18:36 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> References: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> Message-ID: <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> I use solid front mounts and a standard rear mount. I like Bob's approach--I'll have to try that. Solid mounts make the car a little buzzier, but I don't have to worry about breaking engine mounts. With Joe's aluminum front plate the vibration is damped quite a bit. On Feb 14, 2010, at 7:14 AM, wrote: > I have been filling the cavity inside the TRF provided rear mount with silicone, a little at a time to completely fill the cavity, emulating the gel shock absorbtion found in running shoes. This is done with the hope that the silocone will absorb some harmonics at the same time as adding some extra adhersion to the rubber and metal parts. It has worked for a couple of years. I use the little angle pieces on the sides to keep it from squeezing out. > > Bob Kramer > > ---- Tony Drews wrote: >> What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from >> breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the >> big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem >> to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off >> of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? >> >> Thanks in advance... >> >> Tony Drews >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as rkramer3 at austin.rr.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:19:52 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:19:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Too good to be true? ARP for $100 In-Reply-To: <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> References: <4B776A30.1090202@twcny.rr.com> <20100214052313.853F018764B@autox.team.net> <006b01caad7b$09c30980$1d491c80$@com> Message-ID: <4B7830B8.3070009@bright.net> Clark, thanks. Yes, we can supply the full line of ARP. Please call with needs. Ted Clark W. Nicholls wrote: > Check with Ted Schumacher on ARP, if he doesn't join in here on his own! > I try to give Ted a shot at all parts I buy. Gotta support our own! > > (Hi Ted!) > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:40:12 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Unleaded and valve seat damage: Myth??? In-Reply-To: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B776E32.9070905@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B78357C.1010109@bright.net> Mark, your machinist is correct. Our machine shop does several hundred heads a year, including about 100 each year for us (MG, TR3 - TR8, Healey, etc.) With this kind of statistical universe, we see very little recession. Occasionally yes, but in the minority. We always use stainless exhaust valves on all heads except TR7 and TR8 - they were already fully no-lead compatible. Ted Mark Eginton wrote: > As an old car buff for too many years, I can't say I have ever lost a > valve to unleaded gas. From flatheads through muscle cars including > vintage motorcycles and 40 years of driving this Triumph. I thought I > would be safe on this engine and go ahead and do the valve seats when > an old machinist I like to use told me its all a myth and that he has > never seen valve seat damage either. "I'll be glad to take you money..." > > Just thought I would ping the list before closing on this decision. > > Best, > > M > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From edwardbarnard at prodigy.net Sun Feb 14 10:46:38 2010 From: edwardbarnard at prodigy.net (EDWARD BARNARD) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 09:46:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <4B77FF17.4060309@cfl.rr.com> Message-ID: <765515.92038.qm@web81206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Group: One of the questions asked and not yet addressed is the spring pan. When putting the TR6 suspension to a TR3 you need to retain the TR3 spring pan. The TR3 shock tower protrudes out from the chassis more than the TR6 tower, so the TR3 spring pan has a deeper cut-out on the inboard side. A TR6 spring pan will foul the shock tower on a TR3 chassis. Anyone need some TR6 spring pans? I have leftovers from doing many suspension conversions. Thanks - Ed --- On Sun, 2/14/10, Bob wrote: From: Bob Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries To: "Bill Babcock" Cc: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Date: Sunday, February 14, 2010, 7:48 AM Joe, I am in the middle of installing TR4A/TR6 front suspension on my TR3. Here is what I am using: Upper fulcrum pins are the same. Uncle Jack shortened TR4A/TR6 upper control arms. Vertical link is TR4A/TR6. TR6 ball joint. Trunnion is TR4A/TR6. Lower control arms are TR4A/TR6. I also discovered that the nylatron kit (supplied by BFE) that fits the upper inner TR4A/TR6 control arms also fits the lower TR4A/TR6 inner control arms and the stainless steel sleeve fits the lower TR3 fulcrum pins. The upper and lower fulcrum pins measure the same diameter and same length on the TR3. Bob Davis Bill Babcock wrote: > I used the TR3/4 lower arms, but I think they are all the same. I don't > recall, but if you look at the part numbers in the Moss parts catalog you can > put together a kit pretty easily. My upper arms are adjustable heim joints. I > don't think Tony changed any of that. The pivot point is moved inward about an > inch (I think--I have a good memory, it's just short). All this is written > down of course, but I'm 3500 miles away from my notes. > On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: > > >> Did you use the TR6 frame brackets for the lower a-arms or do the a-arms fit >> > on the Tr3's lower fulcrum pins? Joe > >> ---------- Original Message ---------- >> From: Bill Babcock >> To: "Joe Boruch" >> Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries >> Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:09:39 -1000 >> >> I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed >> > that I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least > of the problems. > >> On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote: >> >> >>> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at >>> > it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That > would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as edwardbarnard at prodigy.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Feb 14 10:45:48 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:45:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4B7836CC.4000300@bright.net> Tony, very easy to fix. Convert to a late model TR6/Spitfire mount set-up. They use 2 rubber stud on each end mounts that are on an angle. So the side forces don't drag the mount across the flat bottom plate as OE TR mount but rather drive the mount into angle bracket, absorbing forces rather than tearing mount loose. Ted Tony Drews wrote: > What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from > breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the > big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to > remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of > the mount too. What works and what doesn't? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tony Drews > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2687 - Release Date: 02/14/10 07:35:00 From malaboge at aol.com Sun Feb 14 13:23:47 2010 From: malaboge at aol.com (malaboge at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:23:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CC7BCABF3A6C40-5F34-1808E@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Can you say rubber baby buggy bumpers...me neither My trick is to drill two holes down thru the trans crossmember in line with the two trans to mount holes. Make the new holes a bit bigger than the mounting holes. Use treaded rod long enuf to go thru the trans, thru the mount and down thru the two new holes. Use two nuts on each rod to secure the trans to the mount. Use a nylock (with a big washer) so that it is just "snug" against the bottom of the crossmember. Since the holes in the crossmember are larger than the treaded rod, it will allow some "normal" movement to occur on the trans mount...but will arrest any excessive movement...including that dreaded abrupt stop when your car comes to an unexpected stop! tongue-tied in Nor Cal Nick -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 6:52 am Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews _______________________________________________ From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 14:02:13 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:02:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question In-Reply-To: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <137173.63850.qm@web111001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100214210236.90BA618764B@autox.team.net> We ran the TR-6 setup on a TR-4 for a while. I don't remember if we had the vacuum assist or not, I think we did. The problem we had was that it was hard to modulate the brakes. You could brake pretty hard and do it well, but when you get to the point of lockup it was too easy to lock a wheel and too hard to unlock the wheel. When we went to dual master cylinders without the power booster, I could brake later, harder and not lock front wheels. - Tony Drews At 09:54 AM 2/14/2010, Mark Vanlake wrote: >Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times >from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current >question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster >and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake >cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit >pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, >you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level >where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > >I >guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel >master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid >bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it >really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > >"Experience is that marvelous >thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gasket.works at gte.net Sun Feb 14 14:08:30 2010 From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:08:30 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" Message-ID: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I had a company make a rectangular piece of urethane of ?durometer (I can't recall). About three foot legnth minimum order. It was pliable yet tough and machinable. I dissasembled the std rear mount and used the upper and lower steel parts sandwiching the urethane between. Had to do a little bit of trickery to isolate the top from the bottom but, that was nearly 10 years ago. Not a peep out of it. M Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Feb 14 14:13:47 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:13:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim .net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1145316086-1266181711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1616914543-@bda225.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <20100214211410.46D47187656@autox.team.net> How did you adhere it to the upper / lower steel parts of the standard rear mount? - Tony At 03:08 PM 2/14/2010, gasket.works at gte.net wrote: >I had a company make a rectangular piece of urethane of ?durometer >(I can't recall). About three foot legnth minimum order. It was >pliable yet tough and machinable. I dissasembled the std rear mount >and used the upper and lower steel parts sandwiching the urethane >between. Had to do a little bit of trickery to isolate the top from >the bottom but, that was nearly 10 years ago. Not a peep out of it. > >M >Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au Sun Feb 14 14:59:45 2010 From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 07:59:45 +1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <699816E2-2D29-4CA0-BAD8-DC7D552E06B2@bnj.com> Message-ID: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Thanks Bill, but I don't think you understand my questions I don't have a early trunnion. I have the later one that takes a bolt, not has a pin in it. As far as I remember , all the early ones used a built in pivot pin and they have zero caster. I have 1 brand new STANPART trunion and everything lines up fine on 1 side of the car. It has 3 degress caster machined into it. I got a replacment TR6 trunion and nothing lines up as its wrongly machined, close to 0 degrees caster. Changing to a jag top ball joint used to be a common racer trick and does not seem to unduly stress the trunnion. It is only 0.110" narrower so you put a spacer on 1 side to push it further back against the rear top wishbone, and get more caster. I was wanting to know if others are still doing this and if the extra caster was beneficial with modern street tyres No-one seems to be able to answer my question about the differences with the various steeering arms Thanks Terry From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 14 16:13:06 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 15:13:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question Message-ID: <954227.38611.qm@web111005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Thanks for all the suggestions. I would like to know where the twin master cylinder units can be purchased and what bore did you use? Is there a nice setup that has the balancer bar included, and compatible with the TR-6 mounts. Thanks again. Happy Mardi-Gras from New Orleans! ________________________________ From: Tony Drews To: Mark Vanlake ; FOT LIST Sent: Sun, February 14, 2010 3:02:13 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Brake Master question We ran the TR-6 setup on a TR-4 for a while. I don't remember if we had the vacuum assist or not, I think we did. The problem we had was that it was hard to modulate the brakes. You could brake pretty hard and do it well, but when you get to the point of lockup it was too easy to lock a wheel and too hard to unlock the wheel. When we went to dual master cylinders without the power booster, I could brake later, harder and not lock front wheels. - Tony Drews At 09:54 AM 2/14/2010, Mark Vanlake wrote: >Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous times >from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current >question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power booster >and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake >cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit >pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up, >you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level >where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons. > >I >guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel >master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a fluid >bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is it >really worth the cost and effort to convert? > > >"Experience is that marvelous >thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again" >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sun Feb 14 16:47:11 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:47:11 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries In-Reply-To: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> References: <20100214215944.ZTEJ2010.nskntotgx02p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> Message-ID: <17F42D19-006C-4E1E-8954-020E63CF9549@bnj.com> The ones I got from Moss were listed as late TR4 and they had a pin and 3 degrees of camber. Take a look at the moss parts catalog for TR3/4. Part number part number 661-450 and -460 three degree caster right and left. The zero degree trunnion is the same for both sides. The proper upper arms are 661-050 and -060 and they use the through-bolted ball joint. these parts are all listed as late TR4 parts. The TR6 parts do show a different trunnion with a bolt, specified left and right hand which indicates caster built in, but the angle isn't specified. I assume 3 degrees. I know the jag ball joint trick, it adds about a degree, and it causes binding on the trunnion if you have a good one. Maybe a loose one would be OK. At one time I tried adjusting the upper arms (heim joints, not standard bits) differentially to do the same thing and got binding at less than a degree with old trunnions. The binding got better or worse as the suspension was bumped, so I decided it wasn't a great idea. I hate it when my steering doesn't work. Caster shouldn't have much effect on tires, especially small amounts. It induces a little bit of camber and toe at extremes of travel, but that has little to do with tire performance since we just don't spend much time there. As far as steering arms go, I can't answer your question. I had to have arms made to do what I wanted to do, which was to eliminate bump steer and manage camber gain. I consider the stock suspension parts to be raw materials. On Feb 14, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Enquiries wrote: > Thanks Bill, but I don't think you understand my questions > > I don't have a early trunnion. I have the later one that takes a bolt, not > has a pin in it. As far as I remember , all the early ones used a built in > pivot pin and they have zero caster. > > I have 1 brand new STANPART trunion and everything lines up fine on 1 side > of the car. It has 3 degress caster machined into it. > > I got a replacment TR6 trunion and nothing lines up as its wrongly machined, > close to 0 degrees caster. > > Changing to a jag top ball joint used to be a common racer trick and does > not seem to unduly stress the trunnion. It is only 0.110" narrower so you > put a spacer on 1 side to push it further back against the rear top > wishbone, and get more caster. I was wanting to know if others are still > doing this and if the extra caster was beneficial with modern street tyres > > No-one seems to be able to answer my question about the differences with the > various steeering arms > > Thanks > > Terry From timmurph at fastbytes.com Sun Feb 14 18:14:39 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 19:14:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" In-Reply-To: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> References: <20100214145237.2E6D018764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000601caaddc$5d170300$17450900$@com> The mount that came with the car had been modified with a pivot pin between the upper and lower sections with some free play fore and aft also. At least it appears to have been modified, I don't this is the stock mount. This allows the engine/transmission to rotate a bit and allows for any slight fore and aft movement. The bottom portion that the pivot pin rides in sits on a rubber pad that is riveted, I think, to the large piece that bolts to the frame. Seems to work. I'll send some photos to you Tony. Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 8:52 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" What kind of tricks do folks have to keep the rear tranny mount from breaking? I've now killed a couple of them. Jack used to extend the big tranny bolts through the plate that the mount bolts to. I seem to remember angle iron on the sides to help keep the side forces off of the mount too. What works and what doesn't? Thanks in advance... Tony Drews Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Feb 14 19:18:56 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:18:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" NOW speaking of alloy engine mounts In-Reply-To: <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> References: <20100214171451.I5LEO.267777.root@hrndva-web17-z01> <308AB55A-A9A7-41BB-9F2B-FCACAA826745@bnj.com> Message-ID: <8CC7BFC5CA5FCE3-F04-14C6C@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com> We just ran production runs of TR3/4/TR6/SPITFIRE alloy engine plates. Check in for special FOT pricing...I'd like to move some inventory. Thanks! Joe -----Original Message----- From: Bill Babcock To: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 11:18 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR-4 rear tranny mount "tricks" I use solid front mounts and a standard rear mount. I like Bob's pproach--I'll have to try that. Solid mounts make the car a little buzzier, ut I don't have to worry about breaking engine mounts. With Joe's aluminum ront plate the vibration is damped quite a bit. From invite+26a_t046 at facebookmail.com Sun Feb 14 19:29:22 2010 From: invite+26a_t046 at facebookmail.com (Kevin Lynch) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 18:29:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Message-ID: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> Hi Fot, I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. Thanks, Kevin To sign up for Facebook, follow the link below: http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=1618582156&k=ZYDT3VUZPXTFYEBGQA6YW5PQUSAC6TZB &r Already have an account? Add this email address to your account http://www.facebook.com/n/?merge_accounts.php&e=fot at autox.team.net&c=27b827d7 ad8928fcbbaef31b4330d242.fot at autox.team.net was invited to join Facebook by Kevin Lynch. If you do not wish to receive this type of email from Facebook in the future, please click on the link below to unsubscribe. http://www.facebook.com/o.php?k=74f522&u=1676703056&mid=1e2aeb0G63f07550G0G8 Facebook's offices are located at 1601 S. California Ave., Palo Alto, CA 94304. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sun Feb 14 19:57:07 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 21:57:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? In-Reply-To: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> References: <01C4702C76304F90A82CFD1BDDEB883D@SohlPC> Message-ID: What's face book? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Sohl" To: "FOT" Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 11:13 AM Subject: [Fot] How do I unsubscribe from FOT? > Sorry to bomb the list, but I must not have the latest process correct to > unsubscribe. > > I sent an email with unsubscribe as the subject, but that was several days > ago and I am still getting emails. > > Thanks for any help. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 19to1tr6 at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From cwnfot at gmail.com Mon Feb 15 07:53:19 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:53:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> Message-ID: <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Well, I can't figure this out... What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Lynch Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM To: Fot Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Hi Fot, I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. Thanks, Kevin From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 15 08:15:38 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 07:15:38 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Message-ID: <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" To: "'Kevin Lynch'" ; "'Fot'" Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 15 08:19:40 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 08:19:40 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> Message-ID: <4B79660C.7040607@microworks.net> Search for his email address klynch_6 at msn.com His profile picture is a white GT6 with a blue stripe Clark W. Nicholls wrote: > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 15 08:22:27 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 10:22:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Message-ID: <003c01caae52$af019bf0$0d04d3d0$@net> Me to Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Pendergrass Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 10:16 AM To: Clark W. Nicholls; 'Kevin Lynch'; 'Fot' Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" To: "'Kevin Lynch'" ; "'Fot'" Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From klynch_6 at msn.com Mon Feb 15 09:32:29 2010 From: klynch_6 at msn.com (KEVIN LYNCH) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 09:32:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook In-Reply-To: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> References: <41defd4ac0b7891eb5b8d171e134d9f0@www.facebook.com> <006001caae4e$9d81c4d0$d8854e70$@com> <8B3F537A3B8D45B897BBCDACA887C43F@Pendys> Message-ID: Sorry guys... I think the F.Book mother board got a bad command from me or some internal faux pax occurred. You may disregard (if you like) with my apologies.. Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Pendergrass To: Clark W. Nicholls ; 'Kevin Lynch' ; 'Fot' Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 8:15 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook Well Clark..........Don't feel like the lone ranger!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" > To: "'Kevin Lynch'" >; "'Fot'" > Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 6:53 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > Well, I can't figure this out... > What should one search facebook for to find this facebook profile? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kevin Lynch > Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:29 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] Check out my photos on Facebook > > Hi Fot, > > I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and > events > and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to > join > Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. > > Thanks, > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of Emoticon9.gif] From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Mon Feb 15 12:23:59 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:23:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs Message-ID: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> I have been using a set of 30 year old Ruggles scales for a while 8 seasons with good success and only have the scales at the track to verify were the car has been set. Its been close enough. Most times I have help but today I need to use the dumbbells for my weigh and am wondering what % of weight I would put at the peddles and then the thighs torso etc. I am also wondering about the cost range on new scales from $800.00 to 2800.00 Pad rigidity is important but the rest of the features seem to be about the computer doing the simple math memory and battery life. thanks rob From billb at bnj.com Mon Feb 15 13:52:40 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 10:52:40 -1000 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs In-Reply-To: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> References: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <8809EFCF-8B59-4EB4-AA4F-CBC56D2EA2F1@bnj.com> I kind of figure your center of mass is your ass, you don't apply much weight to your feet--if at all--while you're racing. So I always just put the weight in the seat. In fact most times if I was setting the car up by myself I stood in the seat and read the result. On Feb 15, 2010, at 9:23 AM, Rob wrote: > I have been using a set of 30 year old Ruggles scales for a while 8 seasons > with good success and only have the scales at the track to verify were the car > has been set. Its been close enough. > Most times I have help but today I need to use the dumbbells for my weigh > and am wondering what % of weight I would put at the peddles and then the > thighs torso etc. > I am also wondering about the cost range on new scales from $800.00 to > 2800.00 Pad rigidity is important but the rest of the features seem to be > about the computer doing the simple math memory and battery life. > thanks rob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 15 14:52:29 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:52:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Shifter Kart wreck Message-ID: <4B79C21D.4020203@microworks.net> One of the really fast guys that runs with Shifter Karts with us. This video is from yesterday (2/14/10). Loved his editing the song to the video. The lines: "Set my sites on You" and Got to have my way little Baby". Perfect. Can't win in the first corner but you can sure lose in the first corner. To appreciate the closing shot of the video remember that the camera is mounted on the chin of his helmet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo From oldspeed72 at yahoo.com Mon Feb 15 16:52:57 2010 From: oldspeed72 at yahoo.com (Mark Vanlake) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 15:52:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] GREAT OPEN TRAILER ON E-BAY Message-ID: <561556.9370.qm@web111008.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180469984613&ss PageName=STRK:MESELX:IT Trying to upgrade to an enclosed unit. Interested FOT members have first shot and reduced price. Let me know if your interested or want to trade for a used enclsoed unit. Check it out , thanks. Mark From gp89 at charter.net Mon Feb 15 17:58:32 2010 From: gp89 at charter.net (Jeff Senty) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 16:58:32 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Shifter Kart wreck In-Reply-To: <4B79C21D.4020203@microworks.net> Message-ID: <20100215195832.ZWHUY.1424233.root@mp06> I race go karts at Sugar River Raceway in Broadhead Wi with my grandson. In the Honda Masters class I run in we have the same problem with the first two turns. It gets frustrating having the same people drive like that. You can see me get beat by the track owner on you tube if you search Sugar River Raceway Honda Masters. I'm the #3 blue Jeff Senty ---- "David W. Riddle" wrote: > One of the really fast guys that runs with Shifter Karts with us. This > video is from yesterday (2/14/10). Loved his editing the song to the > video. The lines: "Set my sites on You" and Got to have my way little > Baby". Perfect. Can't win in the first corner but you can sure lose in > the first corner. To appreciate the closing shot of the video remember > that the camera is mounted on the chin of his helmet. > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CNfjKJsVqo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gp89 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Mon Feb 15 19:08:15 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (Bob) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 21:08:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] RHD Steering rack and pinion Message-ID: <4B79FE0F.3040202@cfl.rr.com> I am searching for a RHD rack and pinion steering from a TR4 - TR6, a RHD TR3 dash board and a RHD throttle pedal assembly. Any leads much appreciated. thxx, Bob From fasttrs at yahoo.com Mon Feb 15 19:47:05 2010 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:47:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias Message-ID: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXKwxxASpPY From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Mon Feb 15 19:52:47 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:52:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR3 Barn find nfi Message-ID: Looks like this TR3 has been mothballed in the desert for a long time. If my old man were still around, this is the kind of tr3 we'd haul back to the Midwest for restoration. (If it's not rusty or full of bondo). http://bringatrailer.com/2010/02/15/bat-exclusive-complete-but-apart-1959-triumph-tr3/ ~Steve From adams910 at gmail.com Mon Feb 15 21:55:05 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 23:55:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] scales and splitting Hairs In-Reply-To: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> References: <46A433CAFE5F441BBB7B6C9535E2A62F@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <673993c51002152055g2f9824d7n51285f564e3ab185@mail.gmail.com> Rob, When you get help, sit in the car, record the corner weights, get out and add weight to match. You might have to put some in the footbox to get it right. If you're by yourself, 10 to 20lbs should do. In talking to a very set-up savvy friend, he says with the scales over $1000+, you're mostly getting additional display features. Some of the higher $ set-ups have scales with multiple load cells in them. Unless you're gunning for the Daytona 500, you won't need those. Hope this helps, Bob ps: It's easy to forget in the rush of things, but don't forget to account for fuel load and use your hot tire pressures. From deanesr at uncw.edu Tue Feb 16 05:46:49 2010 From: deanesr at uncw.edu (Deanes, Robert) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 07:46:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias In-Reply-To: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <383952.31438.qm@web46116.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1BB45AE37908DF40B3C2FAB9665E094517B58A7B23@uncwexmb1.dcs.uncw.edu> Great video, this one is a keeper, it put a big smile on my face watching it first thing in the morning...very good Sam. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Munson Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 9:47 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] A Tribute to Sam Halkias http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXKwxxASpPY Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as deanesr at uncw.edu http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From koblinger at verizon.net Tue Feb 16 13:28:05 2010 From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 14:28:05 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 Message-ID: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> /EXeLsN: Permission denied From roadandtrack at bigpond.com Tue Feb 16 14:46:41 2010 From: roadandtrack at bigpond.com (Terry and Cindy) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 07:46:41 +1000 Subject: [Fot] RHD Steering rack and pinion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100216214639.BMIX1743.nschwotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@rat01> I should be able to help with that. Email me at work. roadandtrack at bigpond.com Terry From koblinger at verizon.net Tue Feb 16 20:08:30 2010 From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger) Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 19:08:30 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> References: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <4B7B5DAE.4050809@verizon.net> Lets try this again. 1956 Paramount Ranch Road Races in color! http://thechicaneblog.com/2010/02/16/more-unseen-50s-scca-footage-paramount-ranch-1956/ Cheers, Kurt O. From GRMTim at aol.com Wed Feb 17 12:30:41 2010 From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 14:30:41 EST Subject: [Fot] TR 250 K at the Mitty Message-ID: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> Beloved FOT members, As this year's grand marshall at the Classic Motorsports Mitty is Peter Brock, we are trying to get the TR 250K to the Mitty. (Peter designed the car). When queried, I got this message from Tony, who manages the car: Bill Hart has said that he will bring the car provided I can find a second car to go in the trailer to offset Transport costs. So, If there is a car needing transport from the PNW to Atlanta and back, please let me know ASAP. Regards Tony Garmey 206 612 1782 Anyone want to come to the Mitty from the Northwest? We will offer some perks to make this happen. Tim Suddard Publisher; Classic Motorsports and Grassroots Motorsports magazines www.classicmotorsports.net www.grassrootsmotorsports.com Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723 From riverside at southslope.net Wed Feb 17 13:18:59 2010 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 14:18:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 References: <107186580.343942.1266352085921.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> <4B7B5DAE.4050809@verizon.net> Message-ID: <008b01cab00e$7112ab00$0201a8c0@your55e5f9e3d2> Kurt, Thanks for sharing the video. One of the best from that era. Anybody have and Greenwood or MAR video? art de armond ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kurt Oblinger" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 9:08 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 > Lets try this again. > > 1956 Paramount Ranch Road Races in color! > > http://thechicaneblog.com/2010/02/16/more-unseen-50s-scca-footage-paramount-ranch-1956/ > > Cheers, > Kurt O. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as riverside at southslope.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jfrymark at aol.com Wed Feb 17 13:23:52 2010 From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:23:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 Message-ID: Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark From kaskas at cox.net Wed Feb 17 13:53:24 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:53:24 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100217155324.LACQT.695543.imail@fed1rmwml36> I believe that is the race I was there, but not driving. Ken Miles and Bob Drake had a hell'va race and there was a big conflab at the S/F line after a black flag for Miles . Drake in a bob-tail Cooper and Miles in a 550 Porsche. I think was the time that a fellow was killed in a green Aston Martin on the COOL-OFF lap over in the back. ---- John Frymark wrote: ============= Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. -- Never be beaten by equipment From kaskas at cox.net Wed Feb 17 13:54:40 2010 From: kaskas at cox.net (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:54:40 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> trust me, it was lot of fun. ---- John Frymark wrote: ============= Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? John Frymark Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. -- Never be beaten by equipment From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed Feb 17 14:13:27 2010 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:13:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR 250 K at the Mitty In-Reply-To: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> References: <10545.2e7f80ad.38ad9de1@aol.com> Message-ID: > Anyone want to come to the Mitty from the Northwest? We will offer some > perks to make this happen. Mark? From dave at microworks.net Wed Feb 17 21:09:37 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2010 21:09:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B7CBD81.8040203@microworks.net> I forwarded the link to the guy that runs the NASA Region here in AZ. Loved his comments. ---------------- Wow! My, how times have changed?!? * Spectators! * Who needs K-Walls and tire barriers when you're wearing white, right? * Why use an apex cone that will get knocked over when planting a tree in the same spot will double as some shade for the corner workers who stand in FRONT of it. Ha! On the flip side that looks like a TON of fun and very close racing and those cars really hauled ass too! John Frymark wrote: > Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be > getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? > > John Frymark From jason at multivintage.com Fri Feb 19 08:15:59 2010 From: jason at multivintage.com (jason at multivintage.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 08:15:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> References: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> Message-ID: <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> I Go to whats left of the track every time I'm near the mountains of Malibu. Its still a fun place 50 years later. The track exists as a walking and biking trail and is kind of a crumbling time capsule of racing days gone by... When death loomed at every corner. There is a picnic grounds and an old western town for movie sets... a great day trip for the whole family. I think any FOT'er would enjoy it. Cheers Jason Ostrowski Friendly Ghost Racing 1969 GT6 On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:54:40 -0800, Kas Kastner wrote: > trust me, it was lot of fun. > ---- John Frymark wrote: > > ============= > Wow, that looks so dangerous it doesn't seem like fun! (I must be > getting old!) TRs on track just before the end...Kaz? > > John Frymark > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kaskas at cox.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > -- > Never be beaten by equipment > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as jason at multivintage.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spyderweb at uwalumni.com Fri Feb 19 09:18:01 2010 From: spyderweb at uwalumni.com (Jim Hill) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 10:18:01 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Paramount Ranch 1956 In-Reply-To: <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> References: <20100217155440.9AQ4R.695571.imail@fed1rmwml36> <55925df972b1882b290dc054281b026f@network23online.com> Message-ID: <3afbecf41002190818y33001a71oe8f680bf5da2ba58@mail.gmail.com> For a view of the Paramount Ranch racetrack area today, see: http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/ParamountRanchToday.html Jim Hill ________________________________ Jason Ostrowski wrote: > I Go to whats left of the track every time I'm near the mountains of Malibu. Its still a fun place 50 years later. The track exists as a walking and biking trail and is kind of a crumbling time capsule of racing days gone by.... There is a picnic grounds and an old western town for movie sets... a great day trip for the whole family. I think any FOT'er would enjoy it. From andre at gt6.ca Fri Feb 19 10:40:12 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 12:40:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: <4362ae391002190940v2cd14871m9733999fffde09c0@mail.gmail.com> Quick question... I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car from time to time with a 2nd seat. Should I just pad the whole cage? I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the passenger side. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 11:19:15 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:19:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002190940v2cd14871m9733999fffde09c0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <137465203.4886471266603555269.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You really only need to pad where arms, legs/knees, head and shoulders would contact the bar. I use the SFI rated 1/2 round with adhesive backing. It's clean looking and low profile because of the density. On the subject of padding, most people overlook the foot wells. If you ever roll or cartwheel a car your legs & knees will find every single sharp or hard edge in the footwell. You can do permanent damage to a knee(s) with a single ungaurded edge or corner. I won't go into how I know that. jg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andre Rousseau" To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 10:40:12 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Quick question... I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car from time to time with a 2nd seat. Should I just pad the whole cage? I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the passenger side. A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as toodamnfunky at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From BillDentin at aol.com Fri Feb 19 11:32:39 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:32:39 EST Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: In a message dated 02/19/2010 12:04:47 PM Central Standard Time, andre at gt6.ca writes: > Quick question... > > I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car > from time to time with a 2nd seat. > > Should I just pad the whole cage? > > I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I > keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the > passenger side. > Everytime I attend a racing event I hit my bald head on the door head to my enclosed trailer. Try as I might to avoid it, I know the hit is coming, and I am almost relieved when it finally comes. I have a permanent scar up there right now. So I think you should probably learn to live with your own head bumps getting in and out of the car. It comes with the turf. But these potential passengers...are they good friends? Bill (Damdinger) From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Feb 19 13:51:47 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:51:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque Message-ID: Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's Team competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison From colordog.1 at earthlink.net Fri Feb 19 14:09:44 2010 From: colordog.1 at earthlink.net (steve) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:09:44 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding Message-ID: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I would suggest padding only the areas that your helmet or limbs could come into contact with in a crash. Use the SFI padding that feels hard but absorbs the forces rather than bouncing back. You want your passenger to be safe too so it would make sense to add a 5-pt harness for the passenger and make it Hans friendly in case of a head-on smack. ~Steve -----Original Message----- >From: Andre Rousseau >Sent: Feb 19, 2010 9:40 AM >To: fot at autox.team.net >Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding > >Quick question... > >I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car >from time to time with a 2nd seat. > >Should I just pad the whole cage? > >I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I >keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the >passenger side. > >A. > >-- >Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca >'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ >'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ >Ottawa, ON, Canada >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as colordog.1 at earthlink.net > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 16:50:36 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:50:36 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> I love it.but I'm in the wrong state! Maybe we should have teams like that in all the state. Work on it Henry. Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 3:52 PM To: fot Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's Team competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From Lunkercars at earthlink.net Fri Feb 19 17:27:29 2010 From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net (Greg "Lunker" Hilyer) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:27:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: How ironic Henry, There is a parking lot auto-x going on right now up on Coors Blvd. I was invited to run a friends TaG kart. Would have been my first autocross in about 27 years. Drove over there, looked at the sea of cones, thanked my friend for the offer, got in the car and came home. Hard to turn down a drive but autocross just ain't my thing. You going to SWMS at Arroyo Seco Henry? Walt? Anybody else looking for some SW springtime racing? March 6th/7th Arroyo Seco Raceway - near Deming New Mexico. Go to http://www.swms.org/next.html for details Greg "Lunker "Hilyer TR4 #314 Albuquerque NM On Feb 19, 2010, at 1:51 PM, wrote: > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local > SCCA's Team > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. > The one > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry > Morrison > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Fri Feb 19 20:57:34 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 22:57:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 Message-ID: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> Can anyone tell me what happens to the toe changes on the trailing arm Does it toe in or out in bump. Thanks for the help rob From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Feb 19 23:36:27 2010 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 00:36:27 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa. earthlink.net> References: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> I certainly 2nd what Steve said regarding which padding to go with. I originally had the semi-fireproof padding that the racer supply places sell - looks like a pool toy, kinda. When I was talking with the guy who fitted me for a HANS who KNOWS HIS SAFETY STUFF, he basically said that this stuff was useless. I needed the closed cell much harder padding. He had some with him and I made the switch immediately. It's more expensive, but not MUCH more expensive. I've mainly got it padded where my head would hit. I can't do good padding in the footwell area without interfering with my operation of the pedals unfortunately. I've got a used set of outdated G-Force belts that would make a nice 5 point setup for a passenger. They're yours for shipping cost. - Tony Drwes At 03:09 PM 2/19/2010, steve wrote: >I would suggest padding only the areas that your helmet or limbs >could come into contact with in a crash. Use the SFI padding that >feels hard but absorbs the forces rather than bouncing back. You >want your passenger to be safe too so it would make sense to add a >5-pt harness for the passenger and make it Hans friendly in case of >a head-on smack. > >~Steve > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Andre Rousseau > >Sent: Feb 19, 2010 9:40 AM > >To: fot at autox.team.net > >Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding > > > >Quick question... > > > >I'm going to run my racer as an occasional track day and autox car > >from time to time with a 2nd seat. > > > >Should I just pad the whole cage? > > > >I figure its a good idea to 1 protect a potential passenger and 2nd I > >keep smacking my own head by accident when ducking in through the > >passenger side. > > > >A. > > > >-- > >Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca > >'68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ > >'77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ > >Ottawa, ON, Canada > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > >You are subscribed as colordog.1 at earthlink.net > > > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > >Fot at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Suggested annual donation $12.96 > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.fot-racing.com > > >Fot at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > >Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 00:23:23 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 21:23:23 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Roll Cage padding In-Reply-To: <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> References: <32633616.1266613784358.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <20100220063659.4F7C318764E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0F14B0EE-46F9-4DE1-BBA5-3DB296DB51DD@bnj.com> I third that. Someone showed me a good demo. He gave me a stick about 3' long and a couple inches in diameter and said "hit your pad" I did, and felt a good solid whang from the roll bar. "Did you feel much effect from the padding?" Hmmm, not really. "Try this closed cell stuff". No whang. Just kind of a thud. Even I could tell that thud good, whang bad. And I'm pretty sure you name is D-r-e-w-s -- Bill Badcocz On Feb 19, 2010, at 8:36 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > I certainly 2nd what Steve said regarding which padding to go with. I originally had the semi-fireproof padding that the racer supply places sell - looks like a pool toy, kinda. When I was talking with the guy who fitted me for a HANS who KNOWS HIS SAFETY STUFF, he basically said that this stuff was useless. I needed the closed cell much harder padding. He had some with him and I made the switch immediately. It's more expensive, but not MUCH more expensive. I've mainly got it padded where my head would hit. I can't do good padding in the footwell area without interfering with my operation of the pedals unfortunately. > > I've got a used set of outdated G-Force belts that would make a nice 5 point setup for a passenger. They're yours for shipping cost. > > - Tony Drwes From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Feb 20 09:29:33 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:29:33 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Message-ID: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> did anybody notice that race car spelled backwards is still race car jim g From spitlist at cox.net Sat Feb 20 09:59:09 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:59:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> References: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> Message-ID: Yes, but did you know that Race Car spelled upside down is "totaled"? Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Gray Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 9:30 AM To: Friends of triumph Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards did anybody notice that race car spelled backwards is still race car jim g From BillDentin at aol.com Sat Feb 20 10:15:16 2010 From: BillDentin at aol.com (BillDentin at aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 12:15:16 EST Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Message-ID: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > did anybody notice that race > car spelled backwards is still > race car > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like that. There's a bunch of them. Bill Dentinger From triosan at gmail.com Sat Feb 20 11:14:34 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 10:14:34 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> Bill, you are just too damn funny! The drones do seem to be going backwards. chuck On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 9:15 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, > toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > > >> did anybody notice that race >> car spelled backwards is still >> race car >> > > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the > same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like > that. > > There's a bunch of them. > > Bill Dentinger > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 12:07:02 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:07:02 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <246C25C7-403E-4984-BF84-9A4E87C29440@bnj.com> palindromes. One word. Like A man, a plan, a canal--Panama. The longest one yet generated is 17,826 words, but it's nonsense. On Feb 20, 2010, at 7:15 AM, BillDentin at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, > toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: > > >> did anybody notice that race >> car spelled backwards is still >> race car >> > > I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the > same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like > that. > > There's a bunch of them. > > Bill Dentinger > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 20 12:08:33 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 09:08:33 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <8cbd782d1002201014h75e09152y25c0073cf96d8ba2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <932803E5-415C-4638-8E20-5C2F349029B2@bnj.com> I should have read your response first, Billy's funny went right over my too literal head. On Feb 20, 2010, at 8:14 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote: > Bill, you are just too damn funny! > The drones do seem to be going backwards. > chuck > > On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 9:15 AM, wrote: >> In a message dated 02/20/2010 10:50:21 AM Central Standard Time, >> toodamnfunky at comcast.net writes: >> >> >>> did anybody notice that race >>> car spelled backwards is still >>> race car >>> >> >> I did. I think such words (and in some cases even sentences) that read the >> same backwards and forwards are called Palin Drones, or something like >> that. >> >> There's a bunch of them. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. >> >> > > > > -- > Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Feb 20 12:15:54 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 12:15:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> References: <8A0D085D379F4876AA330FCF2D29CF01@hal9000> Message-ID: <4B8034EA.9020405@bradakis.com> Actually way back in the early days of Team.Net, when there were only two lists - autox and british-cars, Akkana Peck had that quip in her email signature line. And I don't know if any of you are familiar with Riders in the Sky and their radio show Riders Radio Theater, but they once had a skit about a gunslinger named Palindrome. Why, what brought you to town, Mr. Palindrome? A Toyota. It was pretty humorous. mjb. From adams910 at gmail.com Sat Feb 20 13:01:23 2010 From: adams910 at gmail.com (Bob Adams) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 15:01:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] "Best of Britain" Simeone Foundation Museum Message-ID: <673993c51002201201u17ecfad8n93b86a8114b9ce7e@mail.gmail.com> Just putting in a little plug for this.. Dick Stockton's Triumph TR4 is on display at the Simeone Foundation Museum as part of the "Best of Britain" display running from today, Feb. 20th until March 14th. Some other notable cars as part of the exhibit include a Sprite "Sebring Coupes, Sebring Twin-Cam MGA, several rare examples of cars I've never heard of, and stunningly restored, award winning examples of more common British cars. http://www.simeonefoundation.org/ Bob Adams From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Sat Feb 20 18:32:03 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 20:32:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> Art comes in many forms Bill - well done... Cheers, M From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Sat Feb 20 18:56:59 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 18:56:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards In-Reply-To: <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <33A6006664074365A1A3C22B667ED483@hal9000> way to go Bill -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team .net] On Behalf Of Mark Eginton Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 6:32 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards Art comes in many forms Bill - well done... Cheers, M ______________________________ _________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htm l Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as toodamnfunky at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Feb 21 02:34:23 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 10:34:23 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 In-Reply-To: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> References: <1D244F8870CD48F69AC30BB0EE5CF955@INSPIRON> Message-ID: <000801cab2d9$0eea1670$2cbe4350$@com> The normal rule says that at the rear the wheel should go "toe in" on bumps, otherwise the car would go into drifting. Other way round at the front. On a bump it should go slightly "toe out". Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Rob Gesendet: Samstag, 20. Februar 2010 04:58 An: FOT Betreff: [Fot] Rear toe Tr-6 Can anyone tell me what happens to the toe changes on the trailing arm Does it toe in or out in bump. Thanks for the help rob Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Feb 21 12:05:47 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:05:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: As I try to get my kids to carry on my interest in British Cars, the only thing my wife will let me do with them is go Autocrossing until they're 18 when I can let them go destroy all my otherr machinery. I've done a lot of Autocrossing and it seems to have a point, like winning a jacket at the end of the year and they might like that. Again it is likely that the kids will run off with their girlfriends as I have again failed in getting their priorities on the right track. The Arroyo Seco event conflicts with the annual Ft. Lewis College High School Jazz Band Competition which I have recently become quite a fan of lately. But I see my interest dropping off after next year's event. Sharon is trying to get me into the May event and she may have some sucess there. After that it's probably High Plains in May, if I'm not too busy Autocrossing. Cheers Henry > CC: fot at autox.team.net > From: Lunkercars at earthlink.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:27:29 -0700 > To: dos_gusanos at msn.com > > How ironic Henry, > There is a parking lot auto-x going on right now up on Coors Blvd. I > was invited to run a friends TaG kart. Would have been my first > autocross in about 27 years. Drove over there, looked at the sea of > cones, thanked my friend for the offer, got in the car and came home. > Hard to turn down a drive but autocross just ain't my thing. > You going to SWMS at Arroyo Seco Henry? Walt? Anybody else looking > for some SW springtime racing? March 6th/7th Arroyo Seco Raceway - > near Deming New Mexico. > Go to http://www.swms.org/next.html for details > > Greg "Lunker "Hilyer > TR4 #314 > Albuquerque NM > > > > On Feb 19, 2010, at 1:51 PM, > wrote: > > > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local > > SCCA's Team > > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. > > The one > > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry > > Morrison > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > > You are subscribed as lunkercars at earthlink.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Fot at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Feb 21 12:07:44 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:07:44 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque In-Reply-To: <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> References: , <005101cab1be$555ea8d0$001bfa70$@net> Message-ID: Yes, most people are in the wrong state for this one, but hey, ya gotta put it out there.....I got a Mini Driver to join the team so I'm up to a possible 4 cars.................Henry > From: wensley_tr at comcast.net > To: dos_gusanos at msn.com; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:50:36 -0500 > > I love it.but I'm in the wrong state! > Maybe we should have teams like that in all the state. > Work on it Henry. > Craig > > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of dos_gusanos at msn.com > Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 3:52 PM > To: fot > Subject: [Fot] Started my own BL Autocrossing team in Albuquerque > > Hi Gang, I started my own Autocrossing team to enter in the local SCCA's > Team > competition. I need a few more members if anyone is interested. The one > requirement is a British Car to enter..................Cheers Henry Morrison > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Sun Feb 21 19:05:18 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 02:05:18 GMT Subject: [Fot] Mordy Dunst Message-ID: <20100221.210518.15110.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> Sorry to bomb the list. Mordy, would you please contact me off of the list. Joe(B) ____________________________________________________________ Diet Help Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=WE2rRSnOINlaXf57BhojmQAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQAAAAAA= From macdonaldp at rogers.com Mon Feb 22 08:24:16 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 10:24:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb Message-ID: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Andre Other places to take the race car. http://www.hillclimb.org/ Paul From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Feb 22 09:21:37 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 11:21:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: On Mon, 22 Feb 2010, Paul MacDonald wrote: > Andre > > > > Other places to take the race car. > > > > http://www.hillclimb.org/ You ave no idea how hillarious this is for me (and close to home). My first "almost" step into racing was hillclimbs. Long story, but I got to drive an HP bugeye sprite in a funkhana and the guy really worked me to buy the car. I WANTED THAT CAR. Fate stepped in and the car was wrecked about 5 months later at Mt. Ascutney. The driver was okay, but dissapeared from any car events after that (SCCA / various Brit car stuff). And he had been active in both. At any rate, once in a blue moon I look at NEHA and usually decide that if I'm going to do events like that, I'll drag my car all the way to PA do run with the PA hillclimb folks. The hillclimbs in New England are, for lack of a better term - SCARY. The roads are nasty (for the most part) and NARROW. With big rocks and trees right on the edge of the road. If you can't afford to totally write off your car, I would not approach NEHA hillclimbs at anywhere near 10/10ths. Even 7/10ths would be hair-raising at best. Of course you can't get good without taking risks... Sprongel did the Mount Washington Auto Road in under 7 minutes. If you miss on that one, there's 1000 foot drop-offs. Of course they don't run there anymore, but that sort of risk is pretty much standard for NEHA. Look at any of the in-car vidZ posted on the web site. NER/SCCA stopped running hillclimbs in the region a LONG time ago because of the safety / risk aspects. > Paul regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Feb 22 10:40:19 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:40:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, Message-ID: HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate to see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ From andre at gt6.ca Mon Feb 22 11:05:42 2010 From: andre at gt6.ca (Andre Rousseau) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 13:05:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in Message-ID: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g TR7 tagged! A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada From bownes at seiri.com Mon Feb 22 11:35:40 2010 From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 13:35:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75> Message-ID: The thing that kept me out of hillclimbs was the need for the same gear as 'real' racing without the wheel to wheel aspect PLUS the potential for driving off of or into a cliff. On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 12:40 PM, marty sukey wrote: > HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate > to > see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) > > > > Marty > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as bownes at web9.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 12:33:25 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:33:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, Message-ID: <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> His wife will take the car away from him Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 12:40 PM To: Bob Lang; macdonaldp at rogers.com Cc: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Hill Climb HA! I have a hard enough time not maiming myself in an autocross, I'd hate to see what would happen if they turned me loose on a hill climb :) Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 12:42:38 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 14:42:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> References: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00f101cab3f7$30df3930$929dab90$@net> Looks like NASCAR training grounds Craig -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andre Rousseau Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 1:06 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g TR7 tagged! A. -- Andre Rousseau - andre at gt6.ca '68 Triumph GT6 MK1 - http://www.gt6.ca/ '77 FIAT 124 Vintage Racer #515 - http://www.124racer.com/ Ottawa, ON, Canada Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rocky at spitfire4.com Mon Feb 22 16:44:55 2010 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 17:44:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards References: <24239.7c83225c.38b172a4@aol.com> <4B808D13.7030006@twcny.rr.com> <33A6006664074365A1A3C22B667ED483@hal9000> Message-ID: Napoleon's exile: "Able was I ere I saw Elba." Cool because each individual word is a reverse of its other. --Rockcor ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gray" To: "'Mark Eginton'" ; Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 7:56 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car spelled backwards > way to go Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: > fot-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team > .net] On Behalf Of Mark > Eginton > Sent: Saturday, February 20, > 2010 6:32 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Race car > spelled backwards > > Art comes in many forms Bill - > well done... > > Cheers, > > M > ______________________________ > _________________ > > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.htm > l > > Suggested annual donation > $12.96 > > You are subscribed as > toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net > consulting - Unix software > specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as rocky at spitfire4.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From harmug at us.ibm.com Mon Feb 22 17:34:49 2010 From: harmug at us.ibm.com (George Harmuth) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:34:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike From dave at microworks.net Mon Feb 22 18:23:57 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:23:57 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 52 Seconds in In-Reply-To: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> References: <4362ae391002221005p603b4a3bp3b2c566edabad476@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4B832E2D.60504@microworks.net> I'm going to use that bit of video in my HPDE class. One of the axioms that I have students repeat is "If he spins, go where he's been". Andre Rousseau wrote: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9gy2VTMo2g > > TR7 tagged! > > A. From chasgee at aol.com Mon Feb 22 18:36:04 2010 From: chasgee at aol.com (chasgee at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:36:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Message-ID: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> FOT, Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? Thanks, Chuck Gee From mark at bradakis.com Mon Feb 22 19:15:03 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:15:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4B833A27.9090907@bradakis.com> Personally I'd prefer a perennial, not one that has to be replanted every season. Oh. Never mind. mjb. From triosan at gmail.com Mon Feb 22 19:29:58 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:29:58 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder In-Reply-To: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d1002221829ha43380dx8f71f34597ae5f5e@mail.gmail.com> I bought one from Herman Van Den Akker. He has a special mount for the McLoad bearing he supplied. You can see pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/AnnularThrowOutBearingForTRs# His website is at: http://www.hvdaconversions.com/ Chuck PS --If you cannot see the pictures let me know off list and I will send them. On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 5:36 PM, wrote: > FOT, > > Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 > transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? > > Thanks, > > Chuck Gee > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From norlinengineering at comcast.net Mon Feb 22 19:58:06 2010 From: norlinengineering at comcast.net (Norlin Engineering) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:58:06 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <281584CC1F244A95BA5F51269A81E46D@TOSHIBALAPTOP> George I've been running one with a 20 psi switch. The switch is available from NAPA or Pegasus. I'm running a simple light I picked up at a local parts store, but I'd like to switch it out for an LED light. I know the thing works. In the 70's I had one on my Formula Ford. I had an oil pump gear retaining pin shear at 6000 rpm near the end of the main straight. The light came on and I hit the kill switch. When I disassembled the engine to check bearings and figure out what happened, everything was fine except for the broken pin. Substituted part of a 16 penny nail and made the race the next day. The key is to locate the light directly in your line of vision. Jim Norlin -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Harmuth Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:35 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as norlinengineering at comcast.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:21:56 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:21:56 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: <281584CC1F244A95BA5F51269A81E46D@TOSHIBALAPTOP> Message-ID: <68D9F9EC74D74477B993960D728152A3@Pendys> Jim, i picked up a side marker LED light at napa to replace the incandesent one and even on a sunny bright day you cannot miss it if it were to come on, get the one that has four bulbs........MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Norlin Engineering" To: "'George Harmuth'" ; Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 6:58 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > George > > I've been running one with a 20 psi switch. The switch is available from > NAPA or Pegasus. I'm running a simple light I picked up at a local parts > store, but I'd like to switch it out for an LED light. > > I know the thing works. In the 70's I had one on my Formula Ford. I had > an > oil pump gear retaining pin shear at 6000 rpm near the end of the main > straight. The light came on and I hit the kill switch. When I > disassembled > the engine to check bearings and figure out what happened, everything was > fine except for the broken pin. Substituted part of a 16 penny nail and > made the race the next day. > > The key is to locate the light directly in your line of vision. > > Jim Norlin > > -----Original Message----- > From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of George Harmuth > Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:35 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > > > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any > specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system > should > be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that > too? > > thanks > mike > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as norlinengineering at comcast.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Feb 22 20:39:07 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 03:39:07 GMT Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? Message-ID: <20100222.223907.11768.1@webmail04.dca.untd.com> I use a 20 or 30 psi switch - 1/8 pipe thread with a red 12 volt light on the dash. On my TR3, I tapped one of the oil galley bolts to accept the 1/8 NPT switch. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: George Harmuth To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:34:49 -0500 I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Small Business Tools Free info for small business owners. Click here to find great products geared for your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/c?cp=Rk6Fxy_lTq8WBIfMyPJNTgAAJz6U 0HcZ7PRpF0fndYeeSkVqAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARMQAAAAA= From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:44:17 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:44:17 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder References: <8CC823FB2EAE384-2680-4556@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> <4B833A27.9090907@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <957AA7672126456EB8EF7162FD88BCBC@Pendys> I second that...............MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 6:15 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder > Personally I'd prefer a perennial, not one that has to be replanted > every season. > > > Oh. Never mind. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jaboruch at netzero.net Mon Feb 22 20:48:23 2010 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 03:48:23 GMT Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Message-ID: <20100222.224823.11768.2@webmail04.dca.untd.com> I am using the one from Howe racing, with a Tilton clutch. Since I am using a T5 tranny with my own bell housing the hydraulic throw-out bearing mounts on studs on where the original TR tranny nose bolts up. I had to reduce the diameter of the T5's nose for the bearing to fit over the nose. I ran braided hose to it, one thru a throw-out bearing shaft hole and the other thru a new hole that I bored in the case. The top hose has the bleeder. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: chasgee at aol.com To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Annular clutch slave cylinder Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:36:04 -0500 FOT, Is any one using an annular clutch slave cylinder on their TR4 through TR6 transmission? If so, which one are you using and how did you mount it? Thanks, Chuck Gee Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as jaboruch at netzero.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.netzero.net/freeemail?refcd=NZTAGOUT1FREM0210 From mpendy at dishmail.net Mon Feb 22 20:53:00 2010 From: mpendy at dishmail.net (Mark Pendergrass) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:53:00 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: Message-ID: <2A80D0A3BDD94A929DA4ABB1C7CE443C@Pendys> Some of the switches are adj. from 5lb to 50lb, as far as the temp warning goes i stick with the mech. gauge only, an electrician i am, but i just am not keen on electric gauges.............MP ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Harmuth" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 4:34 PM Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. > Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what > PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a > warning light for that too? > > thanks > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as mpendy at dishmail.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From jmwagner at greenheart.com Mon Feb 22 21:32:02 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2010 20:32:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] =?iso-8859-1?q?British_Nomex=AE_Flight_Coveralls?= Message-ID: <4B835A42.2030602@greenheart.com> I thought this might be of interest to some of you.... Nomex... British.... Cheap outfit for pit crew or drivers? --Justin British Nomex. Flight Coveralls! http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=610797 From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Mon Feb 22 23:09:34 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 01:09:34 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? References: Message-ID: <004201cab44e$c5c3c230$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> It's pretty easy to run the ignition through the low pressure switch too. It will disable the ignition automatically if the pressure drops, besides turning on the light. Also wire the fuel pump through it; it will disable the pump if something dastardly happens (crash rollover, etc.) You have to run an over ride switch to start the engine though; that's easily done. The LED side marker lights are very bright and use very little current. And come in a couple different colors. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Harmuth" To: Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 7:34 PM Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? > I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the > dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like > something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. > Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what > PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a > warning light for that too? > > thanks > mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as william.tobin3 at verizon.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Feb 23 00:58:54 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 08:58:54 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01cab45e$0dd83880$2988a980$@com> I have a 22 psi sensor attached to the main oil gallery. I put a bright 12V LED light into the ignition light on the dash and attached it to the sensor. So if the pressure drops below 22 psi the ignition light cheers up. The reason for the ignition light version is that it doesn't disturb the dash design. After a race when the engine is quite hot the red light is flashing a little at idle speed. Cheers Chris -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von George Harmuth Gesendet: Dienstag, 23. Februar 2010 01:35 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Oil Pressure warning lights? I've been thinking about putting a low oil pressure warning light on the dash of my Spitfire race car. I have full mechanical gauges but I'd like something to bitch slap me if I miss a pressure drop. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for sensors, lights and what PSI the system should be set at? How about water temp, anyone running a warning light for that too? thanks mike Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Feb 23 06:24:45 2010 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 07:24:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Oil Pick Up Solution Message-ID: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A6BAE7A@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local> Morning Members, Ran with VDCA @ Atlanta this past weekend. If you've never run with them you had better get on the schedule as it the best vintage group around!! Lots of fun and lots of track time. Anyway back to my query for you all. On the 2nd practice session I thought I noticed the oil pressure drop suddenly to 20 or so PSI. Started watching it and saw it float from 60 to 40 down to 20 back to 60 etc etc. Got to the pits ASAP. We installed a test gauge and had 0 PSI. tried a lot of stuff but eventually dropped the pan and yes you guesses it the pick up had split at the pipe threads where the jam nut flat side is facing the bottom of the oil pan. So got lucky and found some folks with lots of tools and got the broken threads out of the aluminum housing and had enough threads to reinstall it. VOILA all of the sudden I had 80 PSI at speed vs.. the original 60 PSI. So I am guessing it's been cracked and sucking some air for a while now. Then this weekend it finally opened up enough to drop pressure and give ole dummy me enough time to see it happen and get in the pits to save my almost new engine. This pick up had been extended approx 2 inches as I have a stock pan that has been deepened and baffled. Again I digress what is the best solution to make a new pick up out of that isn't so thin that it can crack at the threads again. I like working on these old piles of parts, but NOT at the track. What pan do a lot of you racers run, is a deep sump even necessary?? I had it and just reused it etc. Thanks for any help you have!! Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 411 Allied Drive Nashville, TN 37211 866-455-7788 Phone 615-834-9923 Fax www.dieselperformanceparts.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 12:24:50 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 14:24:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP Message-ID: <8CC82D500EF78BE-2340-2717@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Friends of Triumph Listers: heartlandvintageracing.com now has entry forms posted, as well as the schedule. Three days of practice, qualifying, races, plus the Kastner Cup. FRIDAY-SATURDAY- SUNDAY Thursday is optional TEST & TUNE. Submit now...........why not? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------ If you have ANYTHING to VEND, as long as it is not illegal or immoral, spaces are available. That form is available as well........ $100 will get you 10 x 20 BOOTH. There should be a large GATE due to a huge number car club folks in attendance. KANSAS CITY-OMAHA-MINNEAPOLIS-DES MOINES-OKLAHOMA CITY-DALLAS.....CLUBS! O'REILLEY AUTOPARTS TOPEKA HEARTLAND PARK HVR................... all behind the sucessful execution of this event. At the cost of a grassroots event.... Joe A From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Feb 23 14:00:11 2010 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:00:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Message-ID: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we don't get rear disc brakes etc. jg From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 14:33:14 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:33:14 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility In-Reply-To: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by case basis. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we on't get rear disc brakes etc. jg Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mark at bradakis.com Tue Feb 23 19:42:22 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:42:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Message-ID: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Tue Feb 23 20:05:43 2010 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:05:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP In-Reply-To: <8CC82D500EF78BE-2340-2717@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <650251.85850.qm@web111410.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Joe, When I go to the Heartland Park website and click on "racing registration", the file will not open up. It is like nothing is there. Adobe pops up a box with a "?" in it and a box to check okay. Is anyone else having this problem? Ken Suhre --- On Tue, 2/23/10, n197tr4 at cs.com wrote: > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > Subject: [Fot] HEARTLAND HEADS UP AUGUST 2010 KASTNER CUP > To: fot at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, February 23, 2010, 1:24 PM > Friends of Triumph Listers: > > heartlandvintageracing.com now > has entry forms posted, as well as the > schedule. > > Three days of practice, qualifying, races, plus the Kastner > Cup. > FRIDAY-SATURDAY- SUNDAY > > Thursday is optional TEST & TUNE. > > Submit now...........why not? > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------ > > If you have ANYTHING to VEND, as long as it is not illegal > or immoral, spaces > are available. > > That form is available as well........ > > $100 will get you 10 x 20 BOOTH. > > There should be a large GATE due to a huge number car club > folks in > attendance. > > KANSAS CITY-OMAHA-MINNEAPOLIS-DES MOINES-OKLAHOMA > CITY-DALLAS.....CLUBS! > > O'REILLEY AUTOPARTS TOPEKA > HEARTLAND PARK HVR................... all > behind the sucessful execution of this event. > > At the cost of a grassroots event.... > > Joe A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as kenandtweety at yahoo.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software > specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 20:06:17 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 17:06:17 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> I could have gone all day without seeing that. Urk. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > 140385679995 From dave at microworks.net Tue Feb 23 20:27:10 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:27:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> The line in the description says it all "Triumph purists think it looks like the Bride of Frankenstein, or "something Eddie Munster would drive." Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From spitlist at cox.net Tue Feb 23 20:29:47 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:29:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <95A6DFC1336A4E3B9455C6950FA3609F@joepentiumnew> One word comes to mind: Abomination! Joe -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:42 PM To: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Feb 23 20:35:01 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:35:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ANOTHER HEARTLAND HEADS UP Message-ID: <8CC83197AF12221-6E3C-4060@webmail-m025.sysops.aol.com> FOT: Please note that each driver entrant gets FOUR CREW PASSES. I've never seen that before. DAILY PASSES are only $10 for General Admission and $25 for the weekend....that's a lot of value. I think you will find Hotel RATES very affordable, too....RAMADA INN is the host hotel and HVR HEADQUARTERS. Please also be advised that the last recipient of the BILL AMES MEMORIAL plaque, LARRY YOUNG, has selected THE HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY and the HEARTLAND VINTAGE GRAND PRIX as the venue for the next presentation. This may occur with the presentation of the Kastner Cup. Joe From herald948 at aol.com Tue Feb 23 20:38:29 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:38:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 T-Birds. ;) This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup currently on eBay UK: 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From herald948 at aol.com Tue Feb 23 20:38:33 2010 From: herald948 at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:38:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC8319F97A47A4-36C0-255B@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 T-Birds. ;) This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup currently on eBay UK: 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From timmurph at fastbytes.com Tue Feb 23 20:44:37 2010 From: timmurph at fastbytes.com (Tim Murphy) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:44:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <1777B3B5-18B6-4C0C-AAC7-37573C461851@bnj.com> Message-ID: <000501cab503$b0c74860$1255d920$@com> I could have made it through the rest of the year:) Tim -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 9:06 PM To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Subject: Re: [Fot] Gee, nice car I could have gone all day without seeing that. Urk. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > 140385679995 Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as timmurph at fastbytes.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 21:00:52 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:00:52 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <4B849C8E.8030309@microworks.net> Message-ID: If Eddie munster were a tasteless knucklehead--I wouldn't slur Eddie that way. On Feb 23, 2010, at 5:27 PM, David W. Riddle wrote: > The line in the description says it all > > "Triumph purists think it looks like the Bride of Frankenstein, or "something Eddie Munster would drive." > > Mark J Bradakis wrote: >> Check out Ebay item 140385679995 >> >> I don't think I'll be bidding. >> >> mjb. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> >> You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> >> Fot at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot >> >> Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From billb at bnj.com Tue Feb 23 21:03:14 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:03:14 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <8CC8319F71DA966-36C0-2556@webmail-d064.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: There is an XKE that shows up at some of the brit car shows that makes me gag. Huge amount of effort went into making it so tasteless. a custom Jag shows up at the Wine Country as well. I certainly would never tell someone what they should do with their property, but I really don't want to look at 'em. On Feb 23, 2010, at 5:38 PM, Andrew Mace wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark J Bradakis > > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > ==AM==There was a guy in my area who was very proud of his Mk3 Spitfire with > its externallly mounted (ala "Continental kit") spare tire. I suppose it did > free up some space in the boot and possibly afforded a bit of collision > protection back there, but I always preferred that "look" on Morgans and '55 > T-Birds. ;) > This lovely car -- more accurately, much discussion about same -- has been > "making the rounds" on various Internet Forums, and the seller has ultimately > joined in the conversations. The car looks to have been reasonably well done, > but I suspect George Barris and others need not feel too threatened.... > Then again, maybe it's not any worse than the 2.5L Triumph Herald pickup > currently on eBay UK: > 110492820998 if you're inclined to peek! > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph > Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald > Database: http://triumph-herald.us > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Feb 23 21:15:49 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:15:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 8:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. There has been lot of interesting discussion about that thing on the 6-Pack Forum. It seems that the current owner took offense to some of the comments and ended up being banned. Amazing that anyone would build that, let alone find someone to buy it. The guy who bought it is the current eBay seller. Irv From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Feb 23 21:39:10 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:39:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com>, <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: How 'bout how they moved the bubble to the center of the hood. Just a lot going on there if you really look at the photos.......Henry Morrison From m-syork at comcast.net Tue Feb 23 22:34:02 2010 From: m-syork at comcast.net (Mark York) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:34:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car Message-ID: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> Hey after watching the You Tube thread I got a great idea, lets all chip in a quarter and buy the thing to race at next years 24 hours of Lemons! All it needs is a big bull's eye painted on the rear of the thing Mark Wait a minute, there's a $500 max, change that to 17.5 cents each From brinke at cebridge.net Tue Feb 23 19:05:46 2010 From: brinke at cebridge.net (Bill Rinke) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 20:05:46 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: A little clarification here Joe. Yes, the basic rules are based on the CVAR rules but a number of "exceptions" have been listed that allows more freedom than what the basic CVAR rules allow. We absolutely intend to maintain the attitude of Vintage Racing but we do not want our first event to be so tight that no one can make their car meet the rules. I doubt that there are any Kastner Cup cars that would not now comply with the rules utilizing the "exceptions". The Cup cars will run within the normal vintage groups during practice, qualifying and all of the races leading up to the Kastner Cup Race. They will then all run as group 5 in the Kastner Cup Race. I also have the prerogative to move a car to a different class or group. Let's say that there is a TR-4 in group 7 DP and he is running away from everyone very dramatically. I will move that car to a different class or group for the regular group races. That car would then run in group 5 for the Kastner Cup Race. Our rules are posted on the website and I will be happy to try to field any questions regarding them. When a driver completes the Race Entry form he should also complete the Technical Declaration form which is also on the website. Hope this helps a bit, Bill bill at heartlandvintageracing.com ----- Original Message ----- From: n197tr4 at cs.com To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; brinke at cebridge.net Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:33 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by case basis. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net To: fot Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & we don't get rear disc brakes etc. jg Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2705 - Release Date: 02/23/10 01:34:00 From billb at bnj.com Wed Feb 24 00:24:43 2010 From: billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2010 21:24:43 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility In-Reply-To: References: <1779313738.6220391266958811395.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8CC82E6F0B90F7B-64DC-1839@webmail-d034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Good clarification but it could use some added certainty. I'm not hauling a car from Oregon to Kansas to be considered on a "case by case" basis. I understand that no sanctioning body wants to say that "anything goes". Last year we were able to tell the FOT racers that they would be able to race, but they would be counseled on the correctness of any modifications to their car, and would be expected to make the required corrections next time. It's really not an issue, we didn't have any cars that were that far off the mark, though there's a few when someone comes a long way they don't want surprises. On Feb 23, 2010, at 4:05 PM, Bill Rinke wrote: > A little clarification here Joe. > > Yes, the basic rules are based on the CVAR rules but a number of "exceptions" > have been listed that allows more freedom than what the basic CVAR rules > allow. We absolutely intend to maintain the attitude of Vintage Racing but we > do not want our first event to be so tight that no one can make their car meet > the rules. I doubt that there are any Kastner Cup cars that would not now > comply with the rules utilizing the "exceptions". The Cup cars will run > within the normal vintage groups during practice, qualifying and all of the > races leading up to the Kastner Cup Race. They will then all run as group 5 > in the Kastner Cup Race. > > I also have the prerogative to move a car to a different class or group. > Let's say that there is a TR-4 in group 7 DP and he is running away from > everyone very dramatically. I will move that car to a different class or > group for the regular group races. That car would then run in group 5 for the > Kastner Cup Race. Our rules are posted on the website and I will be happy to > try to field any questions regarding them. > > When a driver completes the Race Entry form he should also complete the > Technical Declaration form which is also on the website. > > Hope this helps a bit, > > Bill > bill at heartlandvintageracing.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > To: toodamnfunky at comcast.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; brinke at cebridge.net > Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:33 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility > > > as I understand it, the sanctioning body's rules are patterned on CVAR'S. > > For the purposes of the Kastner Cup, cars will be looked at on a case by > case basis. > > Joe A > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net > To: fot > Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 3:00 pm > Subject: [Fot] Heartland park rules/elegibility > > > Does anyone know yet about car prep rules. In the RMVR we don't get Webers & > we > don't get rear disc brakes etc. > > jg > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2705 - Release Date: 02/23/10 > 01:34:00 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as billb at bnj.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From 58tr3a at videotron.ca Wed Feb 24 03:23:18 2010 From: 58tr3a at videotron.ca (Don Elliott) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 05:23:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] =?iso-8859-1?q?British_Nomex=AE_Flight_Coveralls?= References: <4B835A42.2030602@greenheart.com> Message-ID: These British Coveralls for Bobsled Racing look they should be cheaper. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS7dsdVMh0s&NR=1 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: "Friends of Triumph" Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 11:32 PM Subject: [Fot] British Nomex. Flight Coveralls >I thought this might be of interest to some of you.... Nomex... > British.... Cheap outfit for pit crew or drivers? --Justin > > > British Nomex. Flight Coveralls! > > http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=610797 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as 58tr3a at videotron.ca > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From John.Reed at wilson.com Wed Feb 24 06:03:56 2010 From: John.Reed at wilson.com (John Reed) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:03:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Poor car. On 2/23/10 8:42 PM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as john.reed at wilson.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > Regards, John Reed Global Staff Photographer Creative Services Wilson Sporting Goods Co. 8750 W Bryn Mawr Ave, Chicago, Illinois 60631, USA Tel. + 1.773.714.6895, fax +1.773.714.4585 John.Reed at wilson.com www.wilson.com www.amersports.com This e-mail may contain confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient (or have received this e-mail in error) please notify the sender immediately and destroy this e-mail. Any unauthorized copying, disclosure or distribution of the material in this e-mail is strictly forbidden. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Wed Feb 24 07:00:50 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:00:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com>, , <354a1781002232015w759d6af1o1e6749868644b873@mail.gmail.com>, Message-ID: OMG!!! Here's the Bad news for future generations. My Kids both think the car is cool especially the fact it has a 302. I am sending the whole lot into the garage for re-education after a lengthy denunciation meeting perhaps a couple hours of reading the shop manual.....................Cheers Henry Morrison From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Feb 24 12:56:25 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:56:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Chicago swap meet this week-end Message-ID: <4B858469.4000607@bright.net> Sorry to be so late and bomb the lists. We will be in our usual spot at the Chicago DuPage county fair grounds swap meet. If you need anything from us, we will do our best to bring it along. There are 2 buildings with vendors. We are located in the building on your left as you come in the main entrance. The first building on the left has a toy show. Our display is at the front end of the center aisle right where you come into the building. Thsi has been our usual spot for the past several years. Pleas stop by and say hello. Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From rikrock at aol.com Wed Feb 24 14:22:54 2010 From: rikrock at aol.com (rikrock at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:22:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Hill Climb In-Reply-To: <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> References: <8748CF5D2C7A477AA068DFF083DC662D@your4dacd0ea75>, <00f001cab3f5$e73b19d0$b5b14d70$@net> Message-ID: <8CC83AEA9814225-4EDC-1FAD@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> Amici, This is my annual invitation to all of you to come run a PHA hillclimb or two this year. Check out www.pahillclimb.org for some info on the schedule and the hills themselves. It's not wheel to wheel racing, I know, but a run up the hill is a VERY intense experience! Rich Rock, PHA VP, Duryea Hillclimb Chairman From robertten1 at aol.com Wed Feb 24 16:13:01 2010 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:13:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CC83BE0B9D8A1D-6E70-21E1@webmail-d027.sysops.aol.com> Whoa !! check that interior. Somethin out of MTV's Pimp My Ride . Bob T -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis To: 'Friends of Triumph' Sent: Tue, Feb 23, 2010 9:42 pm Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car Check out Ebay item 140385679995 I don't think I'll be bidding. mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as robertten1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From gaf3 at charter.net Wed Feb 24 16:31:48 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 18:31:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> Wow No wonder there are no bids it looks like the Munsters owned it. Glenn Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Check out Ebay item 140385679995 > > I don't think I'll be bidding. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Feb 24 17:12:08 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 17:12:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee, nice car In-Reply-To: <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> References: <4B84920E.7010209@bradakis.com> <4B85B6E4.70503@charter.net> Message-ID: <4B85C058.2010904@dfn.com> Glenn Franco wrote: > Wow > No wonder there are no bids it looks like the Munsters owned it. He might have had a chance to sell it if he'd finished it off properly. Say, added some spinner hubcaps.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From markconsultation at twcny.rr.com Wed Feb 24 17:43:43 2010 From: markconsultation at twcny.rr.com (Mark Eginton) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:43:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car In-Reply-To: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> References: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> Message-ID: <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> The owner would have to come way down on his price for it to be eligible for the 24 hours de lemons. I think one of the "kids" here at Cornell built a Saab for the 24hours - he said there is a $500 limit acquiring and preparing the car not counting safety equipment. You have to have some hair to go on that track with those guys in anything less than a '54 buick. It wouldn't be me out there in that TR4 with $500 peers... The only thing to be said about the TR4 is imagine what could have been accomplished if all that effort and money had been spent better. Of course people in the Haight love it - its the Haight... From dave at microworks.net Wed Feb 24 19:04:59 2010 From: dave at microworks.net (David W. Riddle) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 19:04:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gee nice car In-Reply-To: <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> References: <000c01cab512$f943cf50$64a91218@markv8zno7deim> <4B85C7BF.4090105@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B85DACB.6050502@microworks.net> The purchase of the car can be for more then $500 which you can offset by having the reciepts showing you sold items off the car (interior, A/C compressor, etc...) See rule 4.7 http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/rules/ * 4.7: Scavenger Sales:* If you sell pieces off of your car, the money that comes back in can be used to offset the initial purchase price. Just be prepared to convince some exceedingly skeptical judges of the validity of all those transactions. Two friends ran the race down here in AZ last month with different teams and said it was a blast. Something they did not know. If you dropped two wheels off track you got BF. You then had to paint a small cone black and secure it to the roof or your car. Four wheels off and you had to use a large cone. They did not know that and had to scamble to find a cone, paint, drill and bolts to secure the cones. I'm talking to some guys down here to see about building (or should I say gutting) a car to run next year. 3 Series BMW get penalized out of the gate. One of my friends saw his team docked 57 laps before the race started. Thinking about maybe a Honda, although the 3 Series is bulletproof. The car that won the race down here was a Miata. It did 621 laps whereas the the two cars on the podium both did 600. Mark Eginton wrote: > The owner would have to come way down on his price for it to be > eligible for the 24 hours de lemons. I think one of the "kids" here at > Cornell built a Saab for the 24hours - he said there is a $500 limit > acquiring and preparing the car not counting safety equipment. You > have to have some hair to go on that track with those guys in anything > less than a '54 buick. It wouldn't be me out there in that TR4 with > $500 peers... > > The only thing to be said about the TR4 is imagine what could have > been accomplished if all that effort and money had been spent better. > Of course people in the Haight love it - its the Haight... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as dave at microworks.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Feb 24 20:15:54 2010 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 22:15:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Saying of the day Message-ID: Saw this on a BMW forum from someone that races a Z3M Coupe. Racing... because golf, football, and baseball only require one ball. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Feb 25 07:14:48 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 07:14:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st Class to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. Sumner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 Henry, That is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that Dr. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as I found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly Airman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I have the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, that Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, with an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing my ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the Roswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. Did you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this event and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. It is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is had for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I will copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right now. My address is: Robert Johns Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Thu Feb 25 07:57:25 2010 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 9:57:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs Message-ID: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> What is the general consensus on leaf springs such as re-arching, or adding leafs, or removing leafs or leaving as is? The car was originally setup with the stock leaf springs and axle spacers to lower it slightly. thxx, Bob From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Feb 25 07:58:19 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 09:58:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Now Robert Johns at Heartland Park In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <8CC84421A65C226-38E8-DE2D@webmail-d090.sysops.aol.com> Henry....and all, Bob is going to try to join us at Heartland Vintage Grand Prix this August as he did at Watkins Glen. Bob was one of the three "Legends Speak" at Watkins Glen, sharing the spotlight with Ed Diehl and Kas Kastner. We have nothing formal planned for but we expect Bob to hang out with us as an honored guest. Henry, now you will have to come. Make no mistake...this weekend is about TRIUMPHS. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: Bob Johns ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Feb 25, 2010 8:14 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st lass to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. umner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry From: rjohns at woh.rr.com o: dos_gusanos at msn.com C: jeffreykelley at charter.net ubject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? ate: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 enry, hat is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that r. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly irman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I ave the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, hat Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, ith an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing y ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the oswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. id you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this vent and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. t is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is ad for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I ill copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right ow. y address is: obert Johns ubject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? ob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. here is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and he program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send e your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the rivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 05-259-1537 enry, o we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the ars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an luminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after he race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR reviously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. ob Johns Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com http://www.fot-racing.com ot at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Feb 25 08:57:56 2010 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (MadMarx) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:57:56 +0100 Subject: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs In-Reply-To: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> References: <20100225145726.DPOPT.34490.root@cdptpa-web26-z01> Message-ID: <003601cab633$4e4013d0$eac03b70$@com> My leading rule is: As soft as possible, as strong as needed. Cheers Chris: Who is running stock leaf spring on his TR4 -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Gesendet: Donnerstag, 25. Februar 2010 15:57 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] TR3 leaf springs What is the general consensus on leaf springs such as re-arching, or adding leafs, or removing leafs or leaving as is? The car was originally setup with the stock leaf springs and axle spacers to lower it slightly. thxx, Bob Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as tr4racing at googlemail.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Feb 25 09:37:29 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:37:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? References: , Message-ID: <9318A6DA20B74C98A27C7D3C8A81A90D@Bucktailus> Henry, First the records for Sebring have been wrong all these years and is supposed to be corrected the next printing. Mike Rothschild and I drove # 34 to 19th. place overall. My car was silver blue at the Ft. Sumner race. Number 60, as confirmed by the program you scanned and sent. If you would please, look over the photos you have and see if #60 shows up in any of the photos. I don't see a #60 TR2 in any of the photo copies that you sent, but all the photos were not copied. That Super 90 Speedster and I had quite a race. His Tonneau cover flew off right into my path and I should have protested, but I was a new kid on the block and didn't want to make waves, besides it would have cost me $10.00 to protest. There was a 356 Coupe that I pushed until he spun it, as I knew would likely happen from my European experience. I wonder if it was the guy whose photo album you now have. Is Bill Randle still around? We will talk about what I think got me the invite to drive for the Factory later. Bob Johns ---- Original Message ----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: Bob Johns ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 9:14 AM Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Is that little white TR your car? How did you make it from Airman 1st Class to 21st at Sebring in a TR3? I'd love to know more about your run at Ft. Sumner and at Sebring. As would I'm sure the FOT Group. Cheers Henry ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: Re: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:10:39 -0500 Henry, That is great. It is 90 % more than I had before. I was pitted beside that Dr. Sherrod. Really nice guy. I should have followed up with that contact, as I found out at that race that the Texas people had too much money for a lowly Airman 1st. class to run against. Thank you ever so much for this much. I have the trophies from Sumner but no program or action photos. As I said, that Morgan was from Texas, with black uniformed crew, trailer for the car, with an aluminum body on the Morgan. Here I am, fresh from Europe and racing my ride home. Worn my tires out during practice and got the tires off of the Roswell dealers demo car to run the race with. The dealer name was Bill Hart. Did you ever hear of him? Very fine fellow We will talk more about this event and the hill climb at Los Alamos. Please run me a copy of the program. It is strange that I either never had a program or did not retain it, which is had for me to believe, as I retained everything of those race involvement's. I will copy my pit photo to you when I get it back. It is loaned out right now. My address is: Robert Johns Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns From rjohns at woh.rr.com Thu Feb 25 14:07:15 2010 From: rjohns at woh.rr.com (Robert Johns) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:07:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Message-ID: Tom Householder asked if there were any other TRs at Ft. Sumner in that Oct. 1956 race. Bob Johns ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert Johns To: T. Householder Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 4:01 PM Subject: Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? This will answer your question, But it is interesting that I do not remember any other TRs. At least there were no TRs that I was contesting with. Only the Morgan and the Porsches. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: rjohns at woh.rr.com Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 9:32 PM Subject: RE: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Bob, Here is what I've got. All the photos are from the event in Oct. '56. There is a TR in the photo Titled "they're off" on the left. These photos and the program were given to me by Bill Randle who drove Porsches. Please send me your address so I can send you my Sebring book that I'm having all the drivers I can get who drove there to sign. Cheers Henry Morrison 505-259-1537 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: rjohns at woh.rr.com To: dos_gusanos at msn.com Subject: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 01:30:52 -0500 Henry, Do we have any contact with FOT members in West Texas? The majority of the cars at the Ft. Sumner race were from Texas. For example, there was an aluminum bodied Morgan, that I beat, that was from Texas. He came over after the race and seemed very provoked, as he said he had never been beat by a TR previously. I will appreciate any help you will be able to provide. Bob Johns [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 002.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 003.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 004.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 005.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 006.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 007.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 008.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 009.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 011.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Ft Sumner Fall '56 012.jpg] From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Feb 25 15:11:01 2010 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (dos_gusanos at msn.com) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 15:11:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FW: Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From: dos_gusanos at msn.com To: rjohns at woh.rr.com; trhouse at columbus.rr.com; fot at autox.team.net CC: jeffreykelley at charter.net Subject: RE: [Fot] Fw: Films or photos from early racing in Eastern NM? Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 14:42:33 -0700 The entry list shows 5 TR's entered. I went through the photos which were pages removed from a photo album and matched up everything based on how they numbered the Porsche for the particular event. The other photos were from other events like the Spring (May) event at Ft Sumner sponsored by the Roswell Sports Car Club. I bought and sold to my dad a white 1957 TR3 (he still has it) that has Black Stripes through the center and a Blue interior with Factory hardtop. It has never been painted and is in good shape other than a few odd dents. The car came out of Roswell and had a dash plaque in the door pocket from the "Pecos Bill Gymkhana" from April of 1960. I have often wondered what other events it participated in. We have never opened the glove box so it's still some kind of time capsule. I'm hoping there's a Luger in there not just old spark plugs. It is a testament to the provenance of Sports Car Racing in those days to think of all the wierd towns that had Sports Car Clubs and put on events. I have programs from the Iraan hill climb in New Mexico (don't have a clue where it was held) and the Mayhill hillclimb also held in New Mexico. Sometime, late sixties early seventies, it just tanked................... Cheers Henry Morrison From jmwagner at greenheart.com Thu Feb 25 21:38:52 2010 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Thu, 25 Feb 2010 20:38:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Justin: Not Triumph engine related... YET... but interesting.... Message-ID: <4B87505C.7030109@greenheart.com> Compu-tronix.... interesting... --Justin http://www.compu-tronix.com/DIS8.htm From gt6steve at aol.com Fri Feb 26 08:10:09 2010 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:10:09 -0500 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <8CC850CEBDB304F-4B54-E0C3@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com> Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve From gasket.works at gte.net Fri Feb 26 08:40:44 2010 From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 15:40:44 +0000 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <171335234-1267198838-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-593215767-@bda2217.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve ------Original Message------ From: gt6steve at aol.com Sender: fot-bounces at autox.team.net To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Sent: Feb 26, 2010 7:10 AM Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gasket.works at gte.net http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From mlbruner53 at yahoo.com Fri Feb 26 08:48:23 2010 From: mlbruner53 at yahoo.com (Michael Bruner) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 07:48:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] California Speedway In-Reply-To: <8CC850CEBDB304F-4B54-E0C3@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <123125.41274.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I'm not going to make it. You guys have fun. Mike Bruner TR4A - #612 Blacksmith Racing --- On Fri, 2/26/10, gt6steve at aol.com wrote: From: gt6steve at aol.com Subject: [Fot] California Speedway To: FOT at autox.team.net Date: Friday, February 26, 2010, 7:10 AM Who's going to Cal Speedway next weekend? How many spaces do we need? Steve Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as mlbruner53 at yahoo.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Feb 26 09:01:45 2010 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 11:01:45 EST Subject: [Fot] California Speedway Message-ID: <11076.207c9a87.38b94a69@cs.com> In a message dated 2/26/2010 9:50:15 AM Central Standard Time, gasket.works at gte.net writes: > I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve > I was still moving a lot of snow yesterday...wish I was there. Joe A From rkramer3 at austin.rr.com Fri Feb 26 09:24:37 2010 From: rkramer3 at austin.rr.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 10:24:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] California Speedway References: <11076.207c9a87.38b94a69@cs.com> Message-ID: <7D868E031C6249098E0801C130B1BE89@latitudefb1e41> Texas World Speedway is calling and my car is on the trailer ready to answer. This is CVAR's first race weekend of the year. We have 2 TR4's, a TR3, a GT6 and 2 Spitfires attending. We had snow earlier this week but it should be sunny and in the 60's this weekend. Wish you all could be here. Bob Kramer Volente, TX Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. Vince Lombardi ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; ; Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] California Speedway > In a message dated 2/26/2010 9:50:15 AM Central Standard Time, > gasket.works at gte.net writes: > > >> I'm in . Be there thurs afternoon or early eve >> > > I was still moving a lot of snow yesterday...wish I was there. > > Joe A > _______________________________________________ From william.tobin3 at verizon.net Fri Feb 26 20:32:38 2010 From: william.tobin3 at verizon.net (WILLIAM TOBIN) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 22:32:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] loss Message-ID: <003101cab75d$84c33e70$2f01a8c0@ownereq69gs6ae> Hi all, I just got word from Oscar Koveleski that his mechanic Jack Deren's wife Terry has died. I don't know the circumstances. Terry Deren was Terry Thompson before she married Jack. Last Sept at the Glen, we were looking at some old photos of drivers from years past and Terry said she knew most of them; also said she had a cousin named Mickey. I don't think she was BS'ing me. Jack worked for Roger Penske when Roger still drove. He's been around a long time and took care of Oscar's CanAm cars, including when Tony A to Z drove for him. Also the Red Lobster GTP cars. I met them in 1969. Great folks. RIP Terry. Bill From 19to1tr6 at comcast.net Sat Feb 27 13:20:23 2010 From: 19to1tr6 at comcast.net (Rob) Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 15:20:23 -0500 Subject: [Fot] roll center Tr-6 Message-ID: <3CEE00A63DC443EDA0C645F02B371DBA@INSPIRON> Has anyone measured the roll center on a Tr and even better made modifications to improve it thanks rob From Billb at bnj.com Sat Feb 27 19:53:22 2010 From: Billb at bnj.com (Bill Babcock) Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 16:53:22 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Brake Bias In-Reply-To: <4B89B9DA.8090508@twcny.rr.com> References: <4B89B9DA.8090508@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <8966A721-13EC-49BC-B160-B96DD67D1536@bnj.com> It doesn't change all that much track to track, unless a track has a really special feature like a very slow corner after a long straight--like Road America. That's pretty much what I do--at the beginning of a test and tune day or first practice on a track that I haven't had much experience with I'll try some very hard braking while I'm on a straight section--after making very sure there's no one behind me. Really stand on it and try to hold the brakes at the limit of adhesion. If it tracks perfectly straight I know I can use more front bias. I add it until the back end starts to get really light. How that manifests itself is different on different cars. Peyote just gets tail happy but won't spin usually, other cars I've tried this with can get into a spin pretty quickly. Since you're going straight you can usually avoid a full spin by easing off the brakes. If you just lift it will probably snap spin (one of those left-right-left things that just get worse). Not that big a deal, get both pedals in and ride it out. Try not to flat spot the tires and do the entire maneuver in a place where a spin wont stick you into a rail. I'd also do this if I'm changing tires for some reason. The exception is Monterey or other General Racing events where I'm required to use Dunlops. I don't bother trying to optimize Dunlops. there's never enough track time at those events and the tires are so marginal that a little tweaking won't help. Once you have the bias dialed in on the straight, try it in a fast corner. If you have too much front bias the car will understeer when you are continuously braking while turning. If trail braking is important for the track then it makes sense to back off a little. Most tracks I race on, trail braking is not important other than keeping the car settled. The exception is Sears Point (Infineon) which has two turns that work best with late braking and a lot of trail. It's a little hard to work this out since a little sudden braking in a turn will also stop understeer by transferring weight to the front wheels. What I'm talking about is the braking that goes on after the weight has shifted forward, in other words you brake hard to the turn in, ease off a little as you start turning but maintain some steady braking as you head for the apex. If the car understeers then, you might get some relief with less bias. Winter's been great. A little tsunami scare this morning kept me from surfing, but other than that... On Feb 27, 2010, at 2:33 PM, Mark Eginton wrote: > Curious how you set the brake bias on your car. Left to my own devices, I would bias forward then add more rear till the back wants to pass the front on corner braking and back off. How do you get it settled in? Does it change much by track e.g. fast corners vs slow tight corner dominated tracks or do you set it and forget it? > > Hope the winter is treating you well... > > Best, > > M